Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

A flap disc on an angle grinder will probably work well.  Might try a flap
wheel on a drill too.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Z5AZZBY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1447303118&sr=1-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=flap+disc&dpPl=1&dpID=51XK2iOCK9L&ref=plSrch

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 11, 2015 2:29 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Martin and Josh,
>  That is exactly what I tried yesterday.  I used a Multi-Tool with a
> triangular carbide rasp.  I found it so hard to control in such a confined
> area that it did more damage than good.  In particular, the gel coat is so
> much softer than the Plexus that it gouged the gel coat as it broke through
> the Plexus.  Because the rasp is perfectly flat it is difficult to keep the
> corners from digging in if the rasp isn't perfectly flat.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gary,
>>
>>
>>
>> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
>>
>>
>>
>> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi
>> tool and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course
>> carbide and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up
>> to hard use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard
>> adhesive from a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow
>> contact area and ease of position control.
>>
>>
>>
>> Martin DeYoung
>>
>> Calypso
>>
>> 1971 C&C 43
>>
>> Seattle
>>
>>
>> [image: Description: Description:
>> cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
>> Russell via CnC-List
>> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
>> *To:* C&C List
>> *Cc:* Gary Russell
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>>
>>
>>
>> Hi Doug,
>>
>>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
>> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
>> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
>> trying to remove the Plexus.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> S/V High Maintenance
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
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>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Martin& Dave,

I've been involved with 4 in-the-water boat deck 
restorations here in an area just north of the 
PNW, (around Lat 49' 10 - 30" N.)


Since winter is a good time for in-the-water boat 
work in our area, all were covered with a 2x4 & 
1x4 framework peaked over the boom and covered in 
plastic (poly or trap) down to the 
toe-rail.   All marinas have a "no sanding" 
policy but not one of us suffered a complaint, 
maybe due to the containment, lack of traffic at 
this time of year and good vacuum practices.  Or 
perhaps because we are all, just good fellows. I like to believe the latter. :)


As you might imagine, these enclosures are very 
pleasant to work in during our typical winter.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1, B.C. South Coast


At 06:25 PM 11/11/2015, you wrote:


>… quick post in my blog showing the tools…


Dave,

I took a look at your new blog post detailing 
the tools you have used on the window frame clean up.  Nice write up, thanks.


I am jealous about your having access to 
compressed air and working where you can use 
it.  Where Calypso is moored there are 
restrictions on what work can be done in a 
slip.  I am already dancing down the line with 
electric sanding/grinding equipment and I am 
sure running a compressor and air tools would get me kicked out.


I believe many of the cnc-listers that are 
facing a DIY window or other deck 
repair/replacement project need to limit the 
mess, repainting, or do not have the experience 
and confidence to perform “body and fender” 
type work on the shiny parts of a boat.  I 
recall the day when Calypso’s co-owner and I 
finally faced up to the amount of repair 
Calypso’s deck needed and accepted a full 
repaint would be needed.  Once freed from the 
need to limit shiny paint damage we got out the 
big boy grinding and sanding equipment which 
greatly sped up the early phases of the repairs.


This month marked to point where way more hand 
sanding is needed with the resulting wear and 
tear on the arms and wrists (as you mention in 
your blog post).  I have been using hand sanding 
blocks and foam shapes (purchased from auto body 
repair equip sources) to improve the hand 
sanding ergonomics especially around the many 
corners and rounded shapes of a C&C.  The sticky 
back sand paper option increased efficiency over 
the old school paper clamps.  I have had good 
luck sourcing abrasives through several web 
sites including Industrial Abrasives.


Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BA


From: CnC-List 
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin via CnC-List

Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 2:54 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Gary,

Don’t get discouraged. It will work out.

That’s what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered 
really good suggestions I decided to gen-up a 
quick post in my blog showing the tools that I 
have use and am using for the same project.


Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>Ronin’s Overdue Refit
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Alan,
 I am having trouble understanding your description.  I assume the
first step with the pattern bit is to cut out the new window and the second
step is to remove the old window.  If this is true, then I am concerned
about controlling the router in the second step so as not to damage the
area around the old window.  Is your old window recessed as mine is?

Gary
S//V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 5:57 PM, Alan Bergen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> When I removed my windows, I used a router.  Use the new window and double
> sided tape to hold the new window in place.  Then use the router with a
> pattern bit to go all around the window.  Remove the new window, and use
> the router with a straight bit to remove the rest of the window where it's
> held by the plexus.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thirsty
> Rose City YC
> Portland, OR
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

>… quick post in my blog showing the tools…

Dave,

I took a look at your new blog post detailing the tools you have used on the 
window frame clean up.  Nice write up, thanks.

I am jealous about your having access to compressed air and working where you 
can use it.  Where Calypso is moored there are restrictions on what work can be 
done in a slip.  I am already dancing down the line with electric 
sanding/grinding equipment and I am sure running a compressor and air tools 
would get me kicked out.

I believe many of the cnc-listers that are facing a DIY window or other deck 
repair/replacement project need to limit the mess, repainting, or do not have 
the experience and confidence to perform “body and fender” type work on the 
shiny parts of a boat.  I recall the day when Calypso’s co-owner and I finally 
faced up to the amount of repair Calypso’s deck needed and accepted a full 
repaint would be needed.  Once freed from the need to limit shiny paint damage 
we got out the big boy grinding and sanding equipment which greatly sped up the 
early phases of the repairs.

This month marked to point where way more hand sanding is needed with the 
resulting wear and tear on the arms and wrists (as you mention in your blog 
post).  I have been using hand sanding blocks and foam shapes (purchased from 
auto body repair equip sources) to improve the hand sanding ergonomics 
especially around the many corners and rounded shapes of a C&C.  The sticky 
back sand paper option increased efficiency over the old school paper clamps.  
I have had good luck sourcing abrasives through several web sites including 
Industrial Abrasives.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 2:54 PM
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List
Cc: Dave Godwin
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Gary,

Don’t get discouraged. It will work out.

That’s what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered really good suggestions I decided 
to gen-up a quick post in my blog showing the tools that I have use and am 
using for the same project.

Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit<http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Russ & Melody via CnC-List]

Hi Gary,

I'm reminded of a quote from John Lennon,

  “Everything will be okay in the end. If 
it's not okay, it's not the end.”


Good luck with the window project. It's a 
seasonal thread here, kinda like Christmas but without the merry.


Cheers, Russ
Sweet 35 mk-1


At 02:54 PM 11/11/2015, you wrote:

Gary,

Dont get discouraged. It will work out.

Thats what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered 
really good suggestions I decided to gen-up a 
quick post in my blog showing the tools that I 
have use and am using for the same project.


Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit

On Nov 11, 2015, at 3:04 PM, Gary Russell via 
CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:


Hi Pete,
 I spent about an hour yesterday with the 
Multi-Tool and the carbide triangular rasp, 
and I managed to grind away about 3 feet of 
Plexus.  That leaves me about 16 hours of 
grinding to go.  I'm not afraid of work, but 
the damage done was extensive.  And as I get 
more tired (remember the 16 hours), then I 
will get more careless and do more damage.  I 
tried making a fixture for my router to remove 
a window with the adhesive, and it would 
probably work, but one slip of the fixture and 
I would have a hole through the coach 
roof.  The finish was nice, but in the end, I 
though it too risky.  Also, the fixture would 
only work with an intact window and would not 
clean up the damage from the window I've 
already removed.  At this point I am really discouraged.


Gary
S/V High Maintenance
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Gary, 
When I do my windows, I plan to try that tool with a blade like this: 

http://multitoolblade.com/bosch-multi-x-oscillating-multi-tool-blades/1-1-4-flush-cut-diamond-blade.html
 

It might help to heat the window edge first with a heat gun? Or heat the window 
acrylic on a cold day, to help break the glue bond. 

Chuck 


- Original Message -

From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Gary Russell"  
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 5:17:42 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool 

Chuck, 
Yup, I have the Harbor Freight version. It's a great tool. 
Gary 
~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Alan Bergen via CnC-List]

When I removed my windows, I used a router. Use the new window and double sided 
tape to hold the new window in place. Then use the router with a pattern bit to 
go all around the window. Remove the new window, and use the router with a 
straight bit to remove the rest of the window where it's held by the plexus. 

Alan Bergen 
35 Mk III Thirsty 
Rose City YC 
Portland, OR 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Gary,

Don’t get discouraged. It will work out.

That’s what I sleep telling myself every day...

Since most of the other posters have offered really good suggestions I decided 
to gen-up a quick post in my blog showing the tools that I have use and am 
using for the same project.

Hope it helps.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Nov 11, 2015, at 3:04 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Pete,
>  I spent about an hour yesterday with the Multi-Tool and the carbide 
> triangular rasp, and I managed to grind away about 3 feet of Plexus.  That 
> leaves me about 16 hours of grinding to go.  I'm not afraid of work, but the 
> damage done was extensive.  And as I get more tired (remember the 16 hours), 
> then I will get more careless and do more damage.  I tried making a fixture 
> for my router to remove a window with the adhesive, and it would probably 
> work, but one slip of the fixture and I would have a hole through the coach 
> roof.  The finish was nice, but in the end, I though it too risky.  Also, the 
> fixture would only work with an intact window and would not clean up the 
> damage from the window I've already removed.  At this point I am really 
> discouraged.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Gary –
> 
> I took out one of my Plexus installed windows a couple weeks ago using a 
> dremel oscillating tool (analogous to Fein multi tool).  One has to be 
> careful, but it worked surprisingly well.  It’s plexus, so there will be 
> repair work needed to the gelcoat.  I’m fortunately done will all that work 
> and will install a new lens in a couple weeks if the weather holds. 
> 
>  
> 
> Holler if you have questions.
> 
> Pete
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung via 
> CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 1:10 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Cc: Martin DeYoung
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> 
>  
> 
> Gary,
> 
>  
> 
> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
> 
>  
> 
> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
> and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
> and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard 
> use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from 
> a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and 
> ease of position control.
> 
>  
> 
> Martin DeYoung
> 
> Calypso
> 
> 1971 C&C 43
> 
> Seattle
> 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com 
> <mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>] On Behalf Of Gary Russell via CnC-List
> Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Gary Russell
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> 
>  
> 
> Hi Doug,
> 
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I 
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it 
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself 
> trying to remove the Plexus.
> 
>  
> 
> Gary
> 
> S/V High Maintenance
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Chuck,
 Yup, I have the Harbor Freight version.  It's a great tool.
Gary
~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 4:48 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Hi Gary,
>
> Multi-Tool:
> The putty knife shaped blades have teeth.  There are different blades for
> wood, steel, and even masonry.  There are round blades too, and even *diamond
> coated* blades.  These tools are really nice to use and can fit into
> places nothing else will.
>
> Chuck S
>
> --
> *From: *"Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> *To: *"C&C List" 
> *Cc: *"Gary Russell" 
> *Sent: *Tuesday, November 10, 2015 9:04:10 PM
> *Subject: *Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
> Hi Chuck,
>  Let me assure you that Plexus MA-320 is as hard as a rock.  A putty
> knife blade will not touch it.  I spent a good part of today trying to
> grind it away with little progress.
>
> Gary
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 7:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Removing old windows.
>> Someone earlier suggested using a MultiTool with the "putty knife" like
>> blade.  Fein made it first and there are many copies.  Harbor Freight has
>> it on sale.  That's what I'll use.
>>
>>
>> http://www.harborfreight.com/Oscillating-Multifunction-Power-Tool-68861.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODQ4NTI2MDciLCJza3UiOiI2ODg2MSIsImlzIjoiMTQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQ5MyJ9%0D%0A
>>
>> Chuck
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows, Multi-Tool

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Hi Gary, 

Multi-Tool: 
The putty knife shaped blades have teeth. There are different blades for wood, 
steel, and even masonry. There are round blades too, and even diamond coated 
blades. These tools are really nice to use and can fit into places nothing else 
will. 

Chuck S 

- Original Message -

From: "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
To: "C&C List"  
Cc: "Gary Russell"  
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 9:04:10 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows 

Hi Chuck, 
Let me assure you that Plexus MA-320 is as hard as a rock. A putty knife blade 
will not touch it. I spent a good part of today trying to grind it away with 
little progress. 

Gary 
~~~ _ / ) ~~ 


On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 7:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



Removing old windows. 
Someone earlier suggested using a MultiTool with the "putty knife" like blade. 
Fein made it first and there are many copies. Harbor Freight has it on sale. 
That's what I'll use. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/Oscillating-Multifunction-Power-Tool-68861.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODQ4NTI2MDciLCJza3UiOiI2ODg2MSIsImlzIjoiMTQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQ5MyJ9%0D%0A
 

Chuck 






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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[svpegasus38]

Sorry Gary, I have never used it on a hard sealant like Plexus. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Gary Russell via CnC-List Date: Wed, Nov 11, 
2015 10:56To: C&C List;Cc: Gary Russell;Subject:Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing 
Windows
Hi Doug,     While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, 
I don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it 
attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying 
to remove the Plexus.
GaryS/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~


On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com"  wrote:
Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are out, 
you can use it to remove excess sealant. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA ___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[svpegasus38]

Windshield removal tool. It was designed to remove glued in automotive 
glass. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.




-- Original message--From: Stevan Plavsa via CnC-ListDate: Wed, Nov 11, 
2015 11:05To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;Cc: Stevan Plavsa;Subject:Re: Stus-List 
Fwd: Replacing Windows
Does that tool have a name?
SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Pete,
 I spent about an hour yesterday with the Multi-Tool and the carbide
triangular rasp, and I managed to grind away about 3 feet of Plexus.  That
leaves me about 16 hours of grinding to go.  I'm not afraid of work, but
the damage done was extensive.  And as I get more tired (remember the 16
hours), then I will get more careless and do more damage.  I tried making a
fixture for my router to remove a window with the adhesive, and it would
probably work, but one slip of the fixture and I would have a hole through
the coach roof.  The finish was nice, but in the end, I though it too
risky.  Also, the fixture would only work with an intact window and would
not clean up the damage from the window I've already removed.  At this
point I am really discouraged.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance


~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:45 PM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary –
>
> I took out one of my Plexus installed windows a couple weeks ago using a
> dremel oscillating tool (analogous to Fein multi tool).  One has to be
> careful, but it worked surprisingly well.  It’s plexus, so there will be
> repair work needed to the gelcoat.  I’m fortunately done will all that work
> and will install a new lens in a couple weeks if the weather holds.
>
>
>
> Holler if you have questions.
>
> Pete
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Martin
> DeYoung via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 1:10 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Cc:* Martin DeYoung
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
>
>
> Gary,
>
>
>
> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
>
>
>
> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi
> tool and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course
> carbide and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up
> to hard use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard
> adhesive from a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow
> contact area and ease of position control.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Gary Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
> trying to remove the Plexus.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Pete Shelquist via CnC-List]

Gary – 

I took out one of my Plexus installed windows a couple weeks ago using a dremel 
oscillating tool (analogous to Fein multi tool).  One has to be careful, but it 
worked surprisingly well.  It’s plexus, so there will be repair work needed to 
the gelcoat.  I’m fortunately done will all that work and will install a new 
lens in a couple weeks if the weather holds.  

 

Holler if you have questions.

Pete

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin 
DeYoung via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 1:10 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: Martin DeYoung
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Gary,

 

Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?

 

On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard use 
on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from a 
tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and ease 
of position control.

 

Martin DeYoung

Calypso

1971 C&C 43

Seattle


Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Hi Doug,

 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I don't 
see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it attaches.  
If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying to remove 
the Plexus.

 

Gary

S/V High Maintenance

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Martin and Josh,
 That is exactly what I tried yesterday.  I used a Multi-Tool with a
triangular carbide rasp.  I found it so hard to control in such a confined
area that it did more damage than good.  In particular, the gel coat is so
much softer than the Plexus that it gouged the gel coat as it broke through
the Plexus.  Because the rasp is perfectly flat it is difficult to keep the
corners from digging in if the rasp isn't perfectly flat.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance


~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Nov 11, 2015 at 2:09 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary,
>
>
>
> Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?
>
>
>
> On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi
> tool and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course
> carbide and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up
> to hard use on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard
> adhesive from a tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow
> contact area and ease of position control.
>
>
>
> Martin DeYoung
>
> Calypso
>
> 1971 C&C 43
>
> Seattle
>
>
> [image: Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Gary
> Russell via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
> *To:* C&C List
> *Cc:* Gary Russell
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
>
>
> Hi Doug,
>
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
> trying to remove the Plexus.
>
>
>
> Gary
>
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Martin DeYoung via CnC-List]

Gary,

Do you have a Fein multitool or similar oscillating power tool?

On Calypso I have been very pleased with the efficiency of my Fein multi tool 
and the carbide bits.  There is a triangle shaped bit that has course carbide 
and a semi-circle that has a finer carbide grit.  Both bit stand up to hard use 
on fiberglass and epoxy.  If I was faced with removing hard adhesive from a 
tight space I would use the triangle bit for its narrow contact area and ease 
of position control.

Martin DeYoung
Calypso
1971 C&C 43
Seattle

[Description: Description: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Russell 
via CnC-List
Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2015 10:55 AM
To: C&C List
Cc: Gary Russell
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

Hi Doug,
 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I don't 
see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it attaches.  
If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself trying to remove 
the Plexus.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Gary,

Are you using any type of grinder?  Maybe a drum sander?  Its hard to
believe that Plexus would stand up to the likes of these types of power
tools.

Josh
On Nov 11, 2015 1:56 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Hi Doug,
>  While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
> don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
> attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
> trying to remove the Plexus.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
>> wrote:
>>
>>> Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are
>>> out, you can use it to remove excess sealant.
>>>
>>>
>>> Doug Mountjoy
>>>
>>> svPegasus
>>>
>>> LF38
>>>
>>> just west of Ballard, WA
>>>
>>
> ___
>
> Email address:
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Does that tool have a name?

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Doug,
 While I am quite confident your tool will work well with sealants, I
don't see how it will work with Plexus which is harder than the acrylic it
attaches.  If I am wrong please let me know, because I am killing myself
trying to remove the Plexus.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~


On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
> wrote:
>
>> Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are
>> out, you can use it to remove excess sealant.
>>
>>
>> Doug Mountjoy
>>
>> svPegasus
>>
>> LF38
>>
>> just west of Ballard, WA
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

That tool looks like what they use on windshields.  I was already talking
about the Sika adhesive they use.  I don't know why I didn't think of the
tools too.

Thanks for the post!

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 11, 2015 1:26 PM, "svpegasu...@gmail.com" 
wrote:

> Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are
> out, you can use it to remove excess sealant.
>
>
> Doug Mountjoy
>
> svPegasus
>
> LF38
>
> just west of Ballard, WA.
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[svpegasus38]

Here is the tool I use to remone my port lights. Ahter the windows are out, 
you can use it to remove excess sealant. 
Doug MountjoysvPegasusLF38 just west of Ballard, WA.



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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Chuck,
 Let me assure you that Plexus MA-320 is as hard as a rock.  A putty
knife blade will not touch it.  I spent a good part of today trying to
grind it away with little progress.

Gary
~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 7:17 PM, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

> Removing old windows.
> Someone earlier suggested using a MultiTool with the "putty knife" like
> blade.  Fein made it first and there are many copies.  Harbor Freight has
> it on sale.  That's what I'll use.
>
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/Oscillating-Multifunction-Power-Tool-68861.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODQ4NTI2MDciLCJza3UiOiI2ODg2MSIsImlzIjoiMTQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQ5MyJ9%0D%0A
>
> Chuck
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Chuck S via CnC-List]

Removing old windows. 
Someone earlier suggested using a MultiTool with the "putty knife" like blade. 
Fein made it first and there are many copies. Harbor Freight has it on sale. 
That's what I'll use. 

http://www.harborfreight.com/Oscillating-Multifunction-Power-Tool-68861.html?ccdenc=eyJjb2RlIjoiODQ4NTI2MDciLCJza3UiOiI2ODg2MSIsImlzIjoiMTQuOTkiLCJwcm9kdWN0X2lk%0D%0AIjoiODQ5MyJ9%0D%0A
 

Chuck 

- Original Message -

From: "Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List"  
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
Cc: "Stevan Plavsa"  
Sent: Sunday, November 8, 2015 9:18:44 PM 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows 

For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the old 
windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a try. 

Steve 
Suhana, C&C 32 
Toronto 


On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com > 
wrote: 



I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the 
windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295 UV 
.if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen, I will 
use this tape method. 

Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video. 

Rob Abbott 
AZURA 
C&C 32 - 84 
Halifax, N.S. 



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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Maybe you did not have a clean surface for the VHB tape to properly bond.   

I broke off the passenger rearview mirror from my car when my spinnaker pole 
rolled off of the car roof(it was one of those moments).  The mirror was only 
hanging by the adjustment cable.  At first, like anyone, I used some duct tape 
to hold it back on, but after that failed I used some left over VHB tape.  I 
cleaned the surfaces with MEK, and stuck the mirror back on with VHB tape.  I 
have almost forgotten that it is broken.   That was last spring, and so far the 
VHB tape has survived the FL summer heat without any issues.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 12:00 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2015 11:44:35 -0500
> From: Robert Boyer mailto:dainyr...@icloud.com>>
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> Message-ID: <2a6b8538-8a2e-4596-8be8-edda6d91f...@icloud.com 
> <mailto:2a6b8538-8a2e-4596-8be8-edda6d91f...@icloud.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> While this may not apply to windows, I used VHB tape to bond my one solar 
> panel to a corrugated plastic sheet used to keep the solar panel cool on my 
> hard dodger.  After a year and a half I had to replace the VHB tape because 
> it got gummy from the heat and allowed the solar panel to slide aft by about 
> an inch.  I changed the design since so I didn't have to rely on the VHB 
> tape.  The funny part is that the VHB tape was not under any significant 
> load.  I would really have my doubts about the longevity of VHB tape on 
> windows without some other sealant or adhesive.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Bruno,

I solved this problem by aligning the windows before removing the protecting 
film from the VHB tape and hanging the windows in place with two strips of wide 
masking tape from the top side(like two big hinges). You can take the time to 
align the space just as you want(i.e. readjust the masking tape), then lift the 
window up from the bottom while it is still hanging from the masking tape, 
remove the VHB film, and gently swing the window into place.   This is how did 
it with ports up to 50” long on the LF38. 


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:27 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> It can be a one person job, but it is not that easy to hold the window and 
> stick it leveled with an even gap around. Remember these are no small ports, 
> and mine are not even that big being sprit in the middle.  And i had to learn 
> it the hard way...Yes i screwed it the first time. It slipped of my fingers 
> and... too late, it was stuck on the tape! Shit!! I had to very quickly 
> remove the acrilyc that was partly installed and begin all over again. Not 
> easy to remove the tape but doable. I tried the match stick method to space 
> the window but ended up feel the gap with my fingers and with luck it was a 
> success! 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I  rebuilt an A&H hatch with 295UV. It certainly was persnickety about the 
cleaning, the primer, and the timing. But I don’t recall it as being 
particularly messy to apply or to clean up. And it has certainly never leaked.

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Josh Muckley 
via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 10:57 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

Sikaflex 295 UV is rated at 160 psi.  60% stronger than the highest rated VHB 
tape.  I bet its a bit messier too... 

Josh Muckley 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

Besides being bulletproof,  a good reason for using polycarbonate is that it is 
much more flexible than acrylic.  You do not have to force it, it will almost 
noodle its way to fit on the curved surface.   The drawback of using 
polycarbonate: cost, UV degradation, and surface scratching, are less of an 
issue these days.  Bayer makes an extended abrasion and UV resistance 
polycarbonate called  Makrolon 15.  A piece of 1/4" x 10" x 43" transparent 
grey goes for $35 at EStreetPlastics.com .



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:27 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> 
> I am not sure, but it seems to me that for bonding windows to the cabin top, 
> this might be an issue if the windows are curved. Curved windows would try to 
> detach themselves from the fibreglass to which they are attached. So unless 
> you have some other way of keeping them curved, the tape might not be the 
> best option.
> 
> just a thought.
> 
> Marek

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I just looked up my McMaster-Carr order, and I used 5952 series 3M VHB tape. I 
updated the “new portlights” on the Johanna Rose blog to reflect this along 
with the  McMaster-Carr part numbers.

The 5952 series is black and is 3/16” think.  In my case, with the 1/4” 
polycarbonate, this thickness was perfect. It provided enough of a gap for the 
Dow 795 with the portlight ending up slightly proud of cabin surface.  I would 
not try to double up the thickness.  I think it is more important to put a good 
bevel on the inner edge to help the sealant flow underneath and around the edge 
to form a good beaded adhesive seal.

I looked into using Sika with the VHB tape, but after researching, I found that 
there were many good reports of long-term success using the Dow 795.  To add to 
this track record, Dow 795 is much easier to work with and costs about $8 per 
10.3oz cartridge (both big pluses for the DIY-er).


http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/new-fixed-ports.html 
<http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/2015/07/new-fixed-ports.html>



-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:27 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> Message-ID:
><mailto:CA+zaCRDtZT+=cNs_9SqJMjRuzEeo9cPw-qDFY=qhjzcv8fg...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest
> tape which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I
> have a friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks
> like the 5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher
> adhesion for the fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR
> has the highest PSI to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the
> tape to press into any irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more
> differential expansion of the glass and frame.
> 
> As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto
> industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be
> primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination
> of VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior
> finish and sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD

___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Rick Brass via CnC-List]

I have a 75 model boat that I’ve owned for 21 years, and a 76 model that I’ve 
owned for 12. Between them they have 6 aluminum frame windows. None of the 
frames have ever been rebidded, and none of them leak.

 

Back in the mid-90s when I replaced the first pair of portlight lenses on my 
25, someone on the precursers to this list told me how to do it. And 
instruction #1 was DON’T MESS WITH THE ALUMINUM FRAMES.

 

I realize that can’t always be an absolute, but from my experience, it is very 
good advice.

 

 

Rick Brass

Imzadi  C&C 38 mk 2

la Belle Aurore C&C 25 mk1

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of bobmor99 . 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2015 8:51 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: bobmor99 . 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about 
rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style, 
i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the frame 
or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside of the 
cabintop,

This distinction eluded me for quite awhile when reading threads about 
rebedding windows/ports/port lights. 

I have the old style windows and am very happy using butyl to seal the frames 
to the outside of the cabintop (along with the screws that attach the frame to 
the cabintop). (Here, there's a difference between attaching and sealing.)

The newer windows/ports/port lights rely on a very strong adhesive to both 
attach and seal the lens to the outside of the cabintop. 

Hope this helps,

Bob M

Ox 33-1

Jax, FL

 

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote:

A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.

I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint, and it 
looks pretty good

Ahmet

 

 

 

 

___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Robert Boyer via CnC-List]

While this may not apply to windows, I used VHB tape to bond my one solar panel 
to a corrugated plastic sheet used to keep the solar panel cool on my hard 
dodger.  After a year and a half I had to replace the VHB tape because it got 
gummy from the heat and allowed the solar panel to slide aft by about an inch.  
I changed the design since so I didn't have to rely on the VHB tape.  The funny 
part is that the VHB tape was not under any significant load.  I would really 
have my doubts about the longevity of VHB tape on windows without some other 
sealant or adhesive.

Sent from my iPhone, Bob Boyer

> On Nov 10, 2015, at 11:18 AM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> One thing I noticed in these specs is that the VHB tapes have generally 
> better strength of bond when a dynamic load is applied and “will tend to show 
> creep behaviour with stress load acting over a long period of time (static 
> pressure). As a general rule, for static loads, approximately four square 
> inches of tape should be used for each pound of weight to be supported in 
> order to prevent excessive creep.”
>  
> I am not sure, but it seems to me that for bonding windows to the cabin top, 
> this might be an issue if the windows are curved. Curved windows would try to 
> detach themselves from the fibreglass to which they are attached. So unless 
> you have some other way of keeping them curved, the tape might not be the 
> best option.
>  
> just a thought.
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 10:48 AM
> To: C&C List
> Cc: Josh Muckley
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>  
> The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest tape 
> which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I have a 
> friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks like the 
> 5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher adhesion for 
> the fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR has the 
> highest PSI to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the tape to press 
> into any irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more differential expansion 
> of the glass and frame.
> 
> As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto 
> industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be 
> primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination of 
> VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior finish and 
> sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> 
>> On Nov 10, 2015 9:54 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
>> wrote:
>> Rob,
>>  Yikes!  Thanks for the info.  How to choose?
>> Gary
>>  
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>>  
>>> On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 9:33 AM, robert via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Dave:
>>> 
>>> I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand there are 
>>> many different versions, at least that what I get from the website below.  
>>> 
>>> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
>>> 
>>> Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to use 
>>> it.
>>> 
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>> 
>>>> On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>>>> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my 
>>>> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After 
>>>> absorbing a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m 
>>>> planning on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my 
>>>> grandfather it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the 
>>>> more modern ticket to me.
>>>>  
>>>> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
>>>> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>>>>  
>>>> Cheers,
>>>> Dave Godwin
>>>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit
>>>>  
>>>>  
>>>>> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>>  
>>>>> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done 
>>>>> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>>

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows - welcome

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Me too. She's an '84 35mk3. Though not perfect, appears to be very well cared 
for and well outfitted. Has new port lights, recent rod rigging, fuel tank and 
rebuild of 3gm. Interesting thing about window refit is a ss frame around them. 
Haven't seen that in my research before. Things I need peace of mind with is 
hull integrity and hull/deck joint. There is also a bead of silicone along toe 
rail. This raises an eyebrow.  I know a 30 year old boat will have issues but 
there are issues I can deal with and others I don't have the time or energy to 
deal with.  I've done the soda blast and hull surface restore before and can do 
it again, but I don't want to face recoring. After a year search I'm settled on 
a C&C though. Hence joining the list.  I think the 35 mk 3 hits all the buttons 
for me. 
Jon.
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2015, at 1:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Welcome to the list.  Hope the survey goes well.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 11:52 AM, JP Mail via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Just joined the list, minutes ago. Hopefully a new C&C owner after the 
>> survey in 10 days. Enjoyed the boat works video. Noticed the the East 
>> Greenwich RI tag after Gary's name. That is where the survey will take 
>> place. Small world. Sorry for the hijack. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Nov 7, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> That boatworks guy has some great videos. Thanks for the link!
>>> 
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>> 
 On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Fred,
  Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating 
 (I think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 1990 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape 
> method.  See link below:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
>> Gary:
>> 
>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>> 
>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure 
>> how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you 
>> take the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 
>> 295 UV with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would 
>> hold the curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>> 
>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace 
>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' 
>> email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>>
>> 
>>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Fred,
>>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to 
>>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the 
>>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the 
>>> gray VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the 
>>> VHB tape will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so 
>>> the windows will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the 
>>> cabin.  I wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick  
>>>  acrylic trying to  return to a flat shape?
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
 On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the 
 winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this 
 time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul 
 did on Johanna Rose: 
 http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
 
 I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
 
 — Fred
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Paul,
>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 
> 5/16"  It amazes me that   people with no 
> marine design experience would change the design.  I plan to go with 
> 3/8" acrylic.  But 

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Bruno Lachance via CnC-List]

Hi, i did this job last summer using 3M VHB tape. My boat is a '87 vintage 33 
MKII, with the split sharp angles ports.
 
Under the advice of don Casey, from Sail Magazine, i bought a roll of the 
following: "The tape to use is 3M VHB 4991, which is 2.3 millimeters thick. 
Select 1/2in width."
 
This is not excactly the same tape used by Boatworks today, wich is specified 
in the written presentation of the video, but i had enough space for 1/2 inch 
wide and the 3M 4991 had good technical specs that seems to fit the project. 
The tape is a bit thick and the window protrude juste a little bit more than 
before but it's still ok. I applied it the same way Boatwork does and it is 
easy. I did not found a way to buy the DOW 795 silicone from any source in 
Canada so i used SIKA product, the UV resistant one with a cheap "primer in a 
stick" sold by Boulet Lemelin, but not on their web site. the acrilyc is tinted 
and the tape does not show trough (no paint needed).
 
After a year of hard saling racing and twisting the boat,  everything looks 
good, BUT i did have a small leak in one corner at the end of the season that i 
am not able to pinpoint yet, everything seems firmly sealed. I guess the 
silicone would have been better... The tape is strong enough to hold the port 
in place even if the slithly curved shape of the cabintop. 
 
The ports were previously installed with butyl tape and screws. The 
installation was ok for few years until the corner screws stripped and the 
corners started to separate allowing water in. I decided to try the tape this 
time and plug the old holes with thickened epoxy. I had to sand old Plexus 
residues and fair the surface with époxy, sand and clean (acetone) and clean 
again (isopropyl alcool)...to have a good surface for the tape.
 
It can be a one person job, but it is not that easy to hold the window and 
stick it leveled with an even gap around. Remember these are no small ports, 
and mine are not even that big being sprit in the middle.  And i had to learn 
it the hard way...Yes i screwed it the first time. It slipped of my fingers 
and... too late, it was stuck on the tape! Shit!! I had to very quickly remove 
the acrilyc that was partly installed and begin all over again. Not easy to 
remove the tape but doable. I tried the match stick method to space the window 
but ended up feel the gap with my fingers and with luck it was a success! 
 
 See article:
http://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/ask-sail/replacing-fixed-portlights/

 It is available in Canada from Uline.ca: 
http://www.uline.ca/BL_6074/3M-4991-VHB-Acrylic-Foam-Tape
 
I had to buy a 36 yds roll, not cheap.
 
Excuse my english! second language.
 
Bruno Lachance
Bécassine, '87 33 mkII
New-Richmond, Qc
 
 
Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2015 09:40:05 -0500
To: robertabb...@eastlink.ca
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
CC: dave.god...@me.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Rob,
Agreed. When thinking about the tape I did a quick Internet search and came up 
with many versions of the VHB tape. 
I use a software package (OmniFocus) for project planning and under the “Fixed 
Ports Repair” list of actions is a new one to investigate the types of adhesive 
in more detail. With a completion date a good ways in the future I’m afraid...
Best,Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake BayRonin’s Overdue Refit


On Nov 10, 2015, at 9:33 AM, robert  wrote:
  

  
  
Dave:



I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand
there are many different versions, at least that what I get from the
website below.  



http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf



Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend
to use it.



Rob Abbott

AZURA

C&C 32 - 84

Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via
  CnC-List wrote:



  
  More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports
  on my boat over the last few days and and paying close attention.
  After absorbing a good bit of the info in the thread and the links
  provided, I’m planning on moving away from using Plexus ("if it
  was good enough for my grandfather it’s good enough for me!”) and
  using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to me.
  

  
  I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy
than using Plexus, certainly if it is just one person doing the
job.
  

  
  Cheers,


  

  
Dave Godwin

  1982 C&C 37 - Ronin

  Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s
Overdue Refit



  

  



  
  

  On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, D

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List]

One thing I noticed in these specs is that the VHB tapes have generally better 
strength of bond when a dynamic load is applied and “will tend to show creep 
behaviour with stress load acting over a long period of time (static pressure). 
As a general rule, for static loads, approximately four square inches of tape 
should be used for each pound of weight to be supported in order to prevent 
excessive creep.”

I am not sure, but it seems to me that for bonding windows to the cabin top, 
this might be an issue if the windows are curved. Curved windows would try to 
detach themselves from the fibreglass to which they are attached. So unless you 
have some other way of keeping them curved, the tape might not be the best 
option.

just a thought.

Marek

From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2015 10:48 AM
To: C&C List 
Cc: Josh Muckley 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest tape 
which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I have a 
friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks like the 
5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher adhesion for the 
fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR has the highest PSI 
to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the tape to press into any 
irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more differential expansion of the 
glass and frame.

As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto 
industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be 
primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination of 
VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior finish and 
sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Nov 10, 2015 9:54 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  
wrote:

  Rob,
   Yikes!  Thanks for the info.  How to choose? 
  Gary

  ~~~_/)~~



  On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 9:33 AM, robert via CnC-List  
wrote:

Dave:

I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand there are 
many different versions, at least that what I get from the website below.  

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf

Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to use 
it.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.


On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:

  More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my 
boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing a 
good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on 
moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather it’s 
good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to 
me. 

  I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
certainly if it is just one person doing the job.

  Cheers,

  Dave Godwin
  1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
  Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
  Ronin’s Overdue Refit


On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've 
done were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.


Dennis C.


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:

  Hi Dennis, 
   I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like 
silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they 
would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window joint 
that is very close to the turn on the deck.

  Gary
  S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
  1990 C&C 37 Plus
  East Greenwich, RI, USA


  ~~~_/)~~



  On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:

Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that 
were held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.  
Like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S

http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html


Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.


Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
 wrote:

"Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel 
coat damage."Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)Mike AmiraultLovely 
Cruise C&C33MKiiSMSC
  ___

  Email address:

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest
tape which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I
have a friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks
like the 5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher
adhesion for the fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR
has the highest PSI to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the
tape to press into any irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more
differential expansion of the glass and frame.

As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto
industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be
primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination
of VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior
finish and sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 10, 2015 9:54 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Rob,
>  Yikes!  Thanks for the info.  How to choose?
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 9:33 AM, robert via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Dave:
>>
>> I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand there are
>> many different versions, at least that what I get from the website below.
>>
>> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
>>
>> Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to
>> use it.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my
>> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing
>> a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning
>> on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather
>> it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern
>> ticket to me.
>>
>> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus,
>> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>>
>> Cheers,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>
>>
>> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
>> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Hi Dennis,
>>>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
>>> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
>>> would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
>>> joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
>>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
 held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
 Like these:

 http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S

 http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html

 Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.

 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA

 On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with 
> significant gel coat damage."
>
> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>
> SMSC
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Sikaflex 295 UV is rated at 160 psi.  60% stronger than the highest rated
VHB tape.  I bet its a bit messier too...

Josh Muckley
On Nov 10, 2015 10:48 AM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> The attached PDF had pretty good guidance.  I would choose the thickest
> tape which can still fit under the windows.  Maybe even double layers.  I
> have a friend who used the 4941 series.  After looking at the PDF it looks
> like the 5952 series has better adhesive qualities and possibly higher
> adhesion for the fiberglass and polycarbonate that we're using.  The 5958FR
> has the highest PSI to thickness ratio.  I suggest thicker to allow the
> tape to press into any irregularities.  Thicker also allows for more
> differential expansion of the glass and frame.
>
> As much as I like the VHB tape I still can't help but think to the auto
> industry.  They use a urethane made by Sika for windshields.  It has to be
> primed and heated.  It cures in about an hour.  I wonder if a combination
> of VHB tape and sika-flex might be smart.  VHB to get a nice interior
> finish and sika for a permanent weatherproof bond and glazing.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 10, 2015 9:54 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Rob,
>>  Yikes!  Thanks for the info.  How to choose?
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 9:33 AM, robert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Dave:
>>>
>>> I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand there
>>> are many different versions, at least that what I get from the website
>>> below.
>>>
>>> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
>>>
>>> Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to
>>> use it.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>> On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my
>>> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing
>>> a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning
>>> on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather
>>> it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern
>>> ticket to me.
>>>
>>> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus,
>>> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>>>
>>> Cheers,
>>> Dave Godwin
>>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>>>
>>>
>>> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
>>> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Hi Dennis,
  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
 silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
 would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
 joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.

 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
 1990 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA


 ~~~_/)~~


 On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
> Like these:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>
> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>
> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with 
>> significant gel coat damage."
>>
>> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>>
>> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>>
>> SMSC
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
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>

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Rob,
 Yikes!  Thanks for the info.  How to choose?
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 9:33 AM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Dave:
>
> I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand there are
> many different versions, at least that what I get from the website below.
>
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf
>
> Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to
> use it.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>
> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my
> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing
> a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning
> on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather
> it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern
> ticket to me.
>
> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus,
> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dennis,
>>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
>> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
>> would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
>> joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
>>> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
>>> Like these:
>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>>>
>>> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>>>
>>> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
 gel coat damage."

 Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)

 Mike Amirault

 Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii

 SMSC


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

Rob,

Agreed. When thinking about the tape I did a quick Internet search and came up 
with many versions of the VHB tape. 

I use a software package (OmniFocus) for project planning and under the “Fixed 
Ports Repair” list of actions is a new one to investigate the types of adhesive 
in more detail. With a completion date a good ways in the future I’m afraid...

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
> On Nov 10, 2015, at 9:33 AM, robert  wrote:
> 
> Dave:
> 
> I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand there are 
> many different versions, at least that what I get from the website below.  
> 
> http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf 
> 
> 
> Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to use 
> it.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
>> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my 
>> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing 
>> a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on 
>> moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather 
>> it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern 
>> ticket to me.
>> 
>> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
>> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>> 
>> Cheers,
>> Dave Godwin
>> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
>> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
>> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List >> > wrote:
>>> 
>>> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done 
>>> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List < 
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> > wrote:
>>> Hi Dennis,
>>>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like 
>>> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they 
>>> would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window 
>>> joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
>>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>>> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>>> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were held 
>>> in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.  Like 
>>> these:
>>> 
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>>> 
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>> 
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List < 
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
>>> > wrote:
>>>  "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
>>> gel coat damage."
>>>  Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>>> Mike Amirault
>>> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>>> SMSC
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> 
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>>> 
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>>> To change your list preferences, including uns

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[robert via CnC-List]

Dave:

I am no VHB expert.have never used the stuff.  I understand there 
are many different versions, at least that what I get from the website 
below.


http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/media/67100O/3mtm-vhb-tapes.pdf

Point being, make sure you get the right tape for the job you intend to 
use it.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-11-09 8:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List wrote:
More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on 
my boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After 
absorbing a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, 
I’m planning on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough 
for my grandfather it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. 
Seems the more modern ticket to me.


I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using 
Plexus, certainly if it is just one person doing the job.


Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've 
done were on a Beneteau. Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.


Dennis C.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Dennis,
 I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk
like silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I
don't think they would work.  In addition, the big problem is
getting at the bottom window joint that is very close to the turn
on the deck.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports
that were held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with
a caulk cutting blade.  Like these:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S

http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html

Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

"Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with 
significant gel coat damage."

Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)

Mike Amirault

Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii

SMSC


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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

For those who are interested, I talked to ITW Plexus today and asked them
if there was any solvent that might soften the MA320.  They said,
unfortunately, there was not.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance

~~~_/)~~


On Tue, Nov 10, 2015 at 6:53 AM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> "I’ve done my windows twice with Plexus.”
>
> I know. I still have some Plexus remnants of your last project in my
> refrigerator. ;-)
>
> At the rate that I am moving on this project I would have overrun the
> shelf life anyway so another reason to use the 3M VHB tape. I replaced the
> ports 16 years ago shortly after we purchased “Ronin” and used, at the
> recommendation of the portlight fabricator, silicone sealant. Although it
> did hold the ports in and kept things dry, they were never terribly
> stressed. Based on what I know understand I would not recommend that method.
>
> Best,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>
> On Nov 10, 2015, at 5:51 AM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
>
> Dave,
>
> I think I’ve finally been converted over to VHB tape.  After seeing the
> video and seeing the comments on here, that is what I will probably use the
> next time I do windows.
> The process seems very straight forward and only requires one person, who
> is not in a rush to get done before the adhesive kicks off.
>
> I’ve done my windows twice with Plexus.  Yes, it works, but I certainly
> would like to see the installation last longer.  I think the VHB tape would
> outlast Plexus.
>
> Jake
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
> *C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”*
> *Hampton VA*
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com
> ] *On Behalf Of *Dave Godwin via CnC-List
> *Sent:* Monday, November 9, 2015 19:40
> *To:* Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 
> *Cc:* Dave Godwin 
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>
> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my
> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing
> a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning
> on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather
> it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern
> ticket to me.
>
> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus,
> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
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> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

"I’ve done my windows twice with Plexus.”

I know. I still have some Plexus remnants of your last project in my 
refrigerator. ;-)

At the rate that I am moving on this project I would have overrun the shelf 
life anyway so another reason to use the 3M VHB tape. I replaced the ports 16 
years ago shortly after we purchased “Ronin” and used, at the recommendation of 
the portlight fabricator, silicone sealant. Although it did hold the ports in 
and kept things dry, they were never terribly stressed. Based on what I know 
understand I would not recommend that method.

Best,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
> On Nov 10, 2015, at 5:51 AM, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> 
> Dave,
>  
> I think I’ve finally been converted over to VHB tape.  After seeing the video 
> and seeing the comments on here, that is what I will probably use the next 
> time I do windows.
> The process seems very straight forward and only requires one person, who is 
> not in a rush to get done before the adhesive kicks off. 
>  
> I’ve done my windows twice with Plexus.  Yes, it works, but I certainly would 
> like to see the installation last longer.  I think the VHB tape would outlast 
> Plexus.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”
> Hampton VA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave 
> Godwin via CnC-List
> Sent: Monday, November 9, 2015 19:40
> To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 
> Cc: Dave Godwin 
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
>  
> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my boat 
> over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing a good 
> bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on moving 
> away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather it’s good 
> enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to me.
>  
> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>  
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/>
>  

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Jake Brodersen via CnC-List]

Dave,

 

I think I’ve finally been converted over to VHB tape.  After seeing the video 
and seeing the comments on here, that is what I will probably use the next time 
I do windows.

The process seems very straight forward and only requires one person, who is 
not in a rush to get done before the adhesive kicks off.  

 

I’ve done my windows twice with Plexus.  Yes, it works, but I certainly would 
like to see the installation last longer.  I think the VHB tape would outlast 
Plexus.

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

C&C 35 Mk-III “Midnight Mistress”

Hampton VA

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dave Godwin 
via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, November 9, 2015 19:40
To: Paul Eugenio via CnC-List 
Cc: Dave Godwin 
Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

 

More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my boat 
over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing a good 
bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on moving 
away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather it’s good 
enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to me.

 

I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
certainly if it is just one person doing the job.

 

Cheers,

Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay

Ronin’s Overdue Refit <http://roninrebuild.blogspot.com/> 

 

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Bob,
Good point.
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:50 PM, bobmor99 . via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about
> rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style,
> i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the
> frame or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside
> of the cabintop,
>
> This distinction eluded me for quite awhile when reading threads about
> rebedding windows/ports/port lights.
>
> I have the old style windows and am very happy using butyl to seal the
> frames to the outside of the cabintop (along with the screws that attach
> the frame to the cabintop). (Here, there's a difference between attaching
> and sealing.)
>
> The newer windows/ports/port lights rely on a very strong adhesive to both
> attach and seal the lens to the outside of the cabintop.
>
> Hope this helps,
>
> Bob M
> Ox 33-1
> Jax, FL
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
>> I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
>> and it looks pretty good
>> Ahmet
>>
>> 
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

Dave, I checked your blog and that's an impressive effort there on the
refit. I hope the VHB works out for you.

Ahmet, I hear butyl is good for the aluminum frame portlights on the 70s
C&Cs. The fixed port lights on the 80s boats are supposed to be structural
so they have to be bonded to the cabin top.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto



On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 7:40 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my
> boat over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing
> a good bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning
> on moving away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather
> it’s good enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern
> ticket to me.
>
> I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus,
> certainly if it is just one person doing the job.
>
> Cheers,
> Dave Godwin
> 1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
> Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
> Ronin’s Overdue Refit 
>
>
> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
> were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
>
> Dennis C.
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Dennis,
>>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
>> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
>> would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
>> joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
>>> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
>>> Like these:
>>>
>>> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>>>
>>> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>>>
>>> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>>>
>>> Dennis C.
>>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>> Mandeville, LA
>>>
>>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
 gel coat damage."

 Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)

 Mike Amirault

 Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii

 SMSC


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>>>
>>> ___
>>>
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>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[bobmor99 . via CnC-List]

A very important distinction (made before by others) when talking about
rebedding windows/ports/port lights is whether the window is the old style,
i.e. aluminium frame attached to the cabintop and a lens attached to the
frame or, the newer style which is a lens glued directly to the the outside
of the cabintop,

This distinction eluded me for quite awhile when reading threads about
rebedding windows/ports/port lights.

I have the old style windows and am very happy using butyl to seal the
frames to the outside of the cabintop (along with the screws that attach
the frame to the cabintop). (Here, there's a difference between attaching
and sealing.)

The newer windows/ports/port lights rely on a very strong adhesive to both
attach and seal the lens to the outside of the cabintop.

Hope this helps,

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
> I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
> and it looks pretty good
> Ahmet
>
> 
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dave Godwin via CnC-List]

More response to this thread; I’ve been working on the fixed ports on my boat 
over the last few days and and paying close attention. After absorbing a good 
bit of the info in the thread and the links provided, I’m planning on moving 
away from using Plexus ("if it was good enough for my grandfather it’s good 
enough for me!”) and using the 3M tape. Seems the more modern ticket to me.

I’m anticipating the operation to be a good bit easy than using Plexus, 
certainly if it is just one person doing the job.

Cheers,
Dave Godwin
1982 C&C 37 - Ronin
Reedville - Chesapeake Bay
Ronin’s Overdue Refit 


> On Nov 9, 2015, at 11:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done were 
> on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.
> 
> Dennis C.
> 
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi Dennis,
>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like silicones 
> or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they would work. 
>  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window joint that is 
> very close to the turn on the deck.
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were held 
> in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.  Like 
> these:
> 
> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S 
> 
> 
> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html 
> 
> 
> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
>  "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
> gel coat damage."
> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
> Mike Amirault
> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
> SMSC
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ___
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> of page at:
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> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Butyl tape is a terrific sealant.  I use it all the time.  It is not an
adhesive, however, and should not be used to bond windows to fiberglass.

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 6:01 PM, Ahmet via CnC-List 
wrote:

> A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
> I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
> and it looks pretty good
> Ahmet
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:48 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi Bruce,
>>  Welcome to the C&C forum.  Some members get a little cranky, but
>> most are wonderful folks that just want to help.
>>
>>  First a few basics.  Plexiglas is a trade name for acrylic and Lexan
>> is the trade name for poly carbonate.  Poly carbonate is known for being
>> bullet proof, but easy to scratch.  Acrylics are more scratch resistant,
>> but not as tough.  If you are in trouble with the mob, then by all means
>> use poly carbonate otherwise acrylic is probably a better choice.  I don't
>> know how to tell the difference between the two.once installed.
>>
>>  Don't quote me on this, but I think VHB (Very High Bond) can be
>> separated with a razor blade driven between the surfaces.  After that
>> delicate scraping is probably involved.  Anything is better than Plexus.
>> It is almost impossible to remove.  You can grind it out, but if it is in a
>> recess, then you have to worry about damaging the surrounding area.
>>
>> Best of luck,
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.
>>>
>>> I have an  '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.
>>> There is obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I
>>> am certain they have been replaced before.   Windows are in good shape so I
>>> just need to re-bed.
>>>
>>> How can I tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?  I have
>>> started to remove one of the windows by digging out the old sealant and
>>> carefully pulling it away and it bends a bit.  Can I assume therefore it is
>>> polycarbonate?
>>>
>>> Any concerns about getting the window off later to reseal if using 3M
>>> VHB tape.  3M says this tape forms a 'permanent bond'.
>>>
>>> Derek McLeod on a C&C 29-2 used DOW 795.  How did you hold the window in
>>> place while the 795 cured?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>>
>>> Bruce
>>>
>>> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>>>
>>> '86 C&C 29 MK II
>>>
>>> Kootenay Lake, BC
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
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>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Ahmet via CnC-List]

A lot of people paraise using Butyl tape for attaching windows.
I have not done it, but I can see the results on my C&C Hull/Deck joint,
and it looks pretty good
Ahmet


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 5:48 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Bruce,
>  Welcome to the C&C forum.  Some members get a little cranky, but most
> are wonderful folks that just want to help.
>
>  First a few basics.  Plexiglas is a trade name for acrylic and Lexan
> is the trade name for poly carbonate.  Poly carbonate is known for being
> bullet proof, but easy to scratch.  Acrylics are more scratch resistant,
> but not as tough.  If you are in trouble with the mob, then by all means
> use poly carbonate otherwise acrylic is probably a better choice.  I don't
> know how to tell the difference between the two.once installed.
>
>  Don't quote me on this, but I think VHB (Very High Bond) can be
> separated with a razor blade driven between the surfaces.  After that
> delicate scraping is probably involved.  Anything is better than Plexus.
> It is almost impossible to remove.  You can grind it out, but if it is in a
> recess, then you have to worry about damaging the surrounding area.
>
> Best of luck,
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.
>>
>> I have an  '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.There
>> is obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I
>> am certain they have been replaced before.   Windows are in good shape so I
>> just need to re-bed.
>>
>> How can I tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?  I have
>> started to remove one of the windows by digging out the old sealant and
>> carefully pulling it away and it bends a bit.  Can I assume therefore it is
>> polycarbonate?
>>
>> Any concerns about getting the window off later to reseal if using 3M VHB
>> tape.  3M says this tape forms a 'permanent bond'.
>>
>> Derek McLeod on a C&C 29-2 used DOW 795.  How did you hold the window in
>> place while the 795 cured?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>>
>> Bruce
>>
>> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>>
>> '86 C&C 29 MK II
>>
>> Kootenay Lake, BC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Bruce,
 Welcome to the C&C forum.  Some members get a little cranky, but most
are wonderful folks that just want to help.

 First a few basics.  Plexiglas is a trade name for acrylic and Lexan
is the trade name for poly carbonate.  Poly carbonate is known for being
bullet proof, but easy to scratch.  Acrylics are more scratch resistant,
but not as tough.  If you are in trouble with the mob, then by all means
use poly carbonate otherwise acrylic is probably a better choice.  I don't
know how to tell the difference between the two.once installed.

 Don't quote me on this, but I think VHB (Very High Bond) can be
separated with a razor blade driven between the surfaces.  After that
delicate scraping is probably involved.  Anything is better than Plexus.
It is almost impossible to remove.  You can grind it out, but if it is in a
recess, then you have to worry about damaging the surrounding area.

Best of luck,
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 4:23 PM, Bruce Pope via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> This is my first post so please be kind if I am doing anything wrong.
>
> I have an  '86 29 MKII purchased in august with leaking windows.There
> is obvious signs of repair to the gel coat around the windows so I
> am certain they have been replaced before.   Windows are in good shape so I
> just need to re-bed.
>
> How can I tell the difference between polycarbonate and acrylic?  I have
> started to remove one of the windows by digging out the old sealant and
> carefully pulling it away and it bends a bit.  Can I assume therefore it is
> polycarbonate?
>
> Any concerns about getting the window off later to reseal if using 3M VHB
> tape.  3M says this tape forms a 'permanent bond'.
>
> Derek McLeod on a C&C 29-2 used DOW 795.  How did you hold the window in
> place while the 795 cured?
>
> Thanks.
>
>
> Bruce
>
> s/v 'Gyrfalcon'
>
> '86 C&C 29 MK II
>
> Kootenay Lake, BC
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Was afraid of that.  The only ports close to the new C&C ports I've done
were on a Beneteau.  Don't remember how hard the adhesive was.

Dennis C.

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 10:45 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi Dennis,
>  I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
> silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
> would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
> joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
>> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
>> Like these:
>>
>> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>>
>> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>>
>> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>>
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
>>> gel coat damage."
>>>
>>> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>>>
>>> Mike Amirault
>>>
>>> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>>>
>>> SMSC
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
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>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Dennis,
 I'm quite sure those blades would work well for soft calk like
silicones or urethanes, but Plexus is hard as a rock and I don't think they
would work.  In addition, the big problem is getting at the bottom window
joint that is very close to the turn on the deck.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance (formerly Expresso)
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA


~~~_/)~~


On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 11:25 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were
> held in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.
> Like these:
>
> http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S
>
> http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html
>
> Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.
>
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
>
> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
>> gel coat damage."
>>
>> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>>
>> Mike Amirault
>>
>> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>>
>> SMSC
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Not quite the same thing but lately I've been removing ports that were held
in with sealant by using a vibrating saw with a caulk cutting blade.  Like
these:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-OSC214C-4-Inch-Caulk-Knife/dp/B004UBF43S

http://multifitblades.com/straight-sealant-cutter.html

Not sure how they would work on Plexus or Sika adhesives.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 9:30 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> "Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant 
> gel coat damage."
>
> Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)
>
> Mike Amirault
>
> Lovely Cruise C&C33MKii
>
> SMSC
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

"Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel 
coat damage."Well, Gary, you are "High Maintenance" ;)Mike AmiraultLovely 
Cruise C&C33MKiiSMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary W. Russell via CnC-List]

Wow!  You guys are lucky!  My Windows came out in pieces with significant gel 
coat damage.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

Sent from my iPhone. ~~~_/)~~~

> On Nov 9, 2015, at 9:26 AM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ditto. Not even very firm rap of hand was needed...
> 
> Nate
> "Sarah Jean"
> 1980 30-1
> 
> and T31 
> 
>> On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:21 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a 
>> few small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.
>>  
>> Mike Amirault
>> C&C33 MKii SMSC
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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> of page at:
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Dreuge via CnC-List]

I used epoxy filled 50-50 with colloidal silica & 3M glass bubbles. Without 
the 3M bubbles, sanding the thickened silica epoxy mix is like sanding a rock.


-
Paul E.
1981 C&C 38 Landfall 
S/V Johanna Rose
Carrabelle, FL

http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/




> On Nov 9, 2015, at 6:48 AM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com wrote:
> 
> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2015 18:53:53 -0900
> From: Josh Muckley mailto:muckl...@gmail.com>>
> To: "C&C List" mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows
> Message-ID:
><mailto:CA+zaCRDa_4jDYkye8C8A=gWjLY=Vm=hhpy36zf3fnvk_0zt...@mail.gmail.com>>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the damage
> extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing.  I'd just
> use silica filled epoxy.  Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and then
> maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull.  The typical 80 grit might
> be a little much but just remove the shine.
> 
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List"  <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I like the VHB tape method but wasn't there some discussion in previous
posts about the structural properties of the various sealants?

Is this or should this be a concern?

VHB is a product line with various thicknesses and bond strengths so it is
important to make sure you know what you're getting.  3M makes industrial
products in the VHB line so it might be worth adding individual to the
search.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 7, 2015 7:38 AM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
> method.  See link below:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
>
>> Gary:
>>
>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>
>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure how
>> much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take the
>> old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV with
>> the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the curved
>> window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>
>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
>> to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Fred,
>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
>> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>  return to a flat shape?
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
>>> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
>>> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
>>> Johanna Rose: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>>
>>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>>
>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Paul,
>>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"
>>>  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the
>>> design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>>>
>>> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less
>>> scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading one
>>> problem for another.
>>>
>>>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the
>>> Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the
>>> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
>>> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>>>
>>>  Thoughts, anyone?
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
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>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
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> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
>
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>
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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Nate Flesness via CnC-List]

Ditto. Not even very firm rap of hand was needed...

Nate
"Sarah Jean"
1980 30-1

and T31

On Mon, Nov 9, 2015 at 8:21 AM, mike amirault via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a
> few small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.
>
> Mike Amirault
> C&C33 MKii SMSC
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>
___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Gelcoat is just pigmented polyester AFAIK, so I would go with polyester if it 
isn't going to show anyway. (note, some gelcoats may be based on epoxy) Styrene 
applied before the polyester may help to make a better bond.___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[mike amirault via CnC-List]

Stevan, mine just popped out with a firm rap from my hand. Had to fix up a few 
small patches of gelcoat but nothing major.

Mike Amirault
C&C33 MKii SMSC___

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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Hi Josh,
 I have been thinking the same thing.  So far (only removed one window)
the damage has been contained under the glazing.

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 10:53 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the
> damage extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing.  I'd
> just use silica filled epoxy.  Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and
> then maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull.  The typical 80 grit
> might be a little much but just remove the shine.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
> On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
> wrote:
>
>> Yup, you will!  The question is, what is the best way to repair the
>> gelcoat.  I have glass mat showing in places.  Do I apply epoxy or
>> polyester resin to the glass mat before filling in the damaged area?  What
>> do I fill it with?  Should I use MarineTex or silica filled resin?  help!!!
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 9:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the
>>> old windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a
>>> try.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the
 windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295
 UV .if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen,
 I will use this tape method.

 Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.

 On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

 There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
 method.  See link below:

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8

 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 1999 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA



 ~~~_/)~~


 On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert < 
 robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:

> Gary:
>
> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>
> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
> how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take
> the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
> with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
> curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>
> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to
> 'brace them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off
> list' email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
>
> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>
> Fred,
>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the 
> gray
> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>  return to a flat shape?
>
> Gary
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over
>> the winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this
>> time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did 
>> on
>> Johanna Rose:
>> 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>
>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>
>> — Fred
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
>> WI   :^(
>>
>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Hi Paul,
>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has
>> 5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

I'm not convinced that repairing the gel-coat is critical unless the damage
extends beyond that which is hidden by the window and glazing.  I'd just
use silica filled epoxy.  Scrub it well to remove the amine blush and then
maybe give it a little tooth by sanding it dull.  The typical 80 grit might
be a little much but just remove the shine.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Nov 8, 2015 9:48 PM, "Gary Russell via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Yup, you will!  The question is, what is the best way to repair the
> gelcoat.  I have glass mat showing in places.  Do I apply epoxy or
> polyester resin to the glass mat before filling in the damaged area?  What
> do I fill it with?  Should I use MarineTex or silica filled resin?  help!!!
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 9:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the
>> old windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a
>> try.
>>
>> Steve
>> Suhana, C&C 32
>> Toronto
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the
>>> windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295
>>> UV .if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen,
>>> I will use this tape method.
>>>
>>> Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>> On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
>>> method.  See link below:
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert < 
>>> robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
>>>
 Gary:

 I sent you the process I used 'off list'.

 The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
 how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take
 the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
 with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
 curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.

 Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
 them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
 to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.



 On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

 Fred,
  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
 look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
 winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
 VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
 will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
 will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
 wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
  return to a flat shape?

 Gary

 ~~~_/)~~


 On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
> Johanna Rose:
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>
> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
> WI   :^(
>
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has
> 5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would
> change the design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>
> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading
> one problem for another.
>
>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in
> the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) 
> the
> bond thickness is large enough.  To

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Yup, you will!  The question is, what is the best way to repair the
gelcoat.  I have glass mat showing in places.  Do I apply epoxy or
polyester resin to the glass mat before filling in the damaged area?  What
do I fill it with?  Should I use MarineTex or silica filled resin?  help!!!

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 9:18 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the
> old windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a
> try.
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
>
> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List  > wrote:
>
>> I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the
>> windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295
>> UV .if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen,
>> I will use this tape method.
>>
>> Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>> On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
>> method.  See link below:
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert < 
>> robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
>>
>>> Gary:
>>>
>>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>>
>>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
>>> how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take
>>> the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
>>> with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
>>> curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>>
>>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
>>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
>>> to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Fred,
>>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
>>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
>>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
>>> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
>>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>>  return to a flat shape?
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
 winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
 I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
 Johanna Rose:
 
 http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.

 I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.

 — Fred

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Hi Paul,
  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"
  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the
 design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...

 The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
 less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading
 one problem for another.

  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the
 Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the
 bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
 adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".

  Thoughts, anyone?

 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 '90 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-lis

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

This write up in sailing anarchy is pretty detailed with pics
http://forums.sailinganarchy.com/index.php?showtopic=133986

> On Nov 8, 2015, at 9:18 PM,Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the old 
> windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a try.
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
> 
>> On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the 
>> windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295 UV 
>> .if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen, I 
>> will use this tape method.
>> 
>> Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>>> On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape method. 
>>>  See link below:
>>> 
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
 Gary:
 
 I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
 
 The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure how 
 much but it is noticeable.you can get a better 
 idea when you take the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I 
 used Sika 295 UV with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive 
 would hold the curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no 
 problems.
 
 Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace 
 them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' 
 email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 

 
> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
> Fred,
>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to 
> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the 
> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the 
> gray VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB 
> tape will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the 
> windows will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the 
> cabin.  I wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic 
> trying to  return to a flat shape?
> 
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the 
>> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing 
>> twice now (previous boat); this time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with 
>> Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on Johanna Rose: 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>> 
>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Paul,
>>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16" 
>>>  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change 
>>> the design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>>> 
>>> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is 
>>> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably 
>>> trading one problem for another.
>>> 
>>>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the 
>>> Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the 
>>> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to 
>>> the adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 
>>> 0.030".
>>> 
>>>  Thoughts, anyone?
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom 

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

For those that have done the job, how did you manage the removal of the old
windows? I imagine I'de destroy any gelcoat down there if I gave this a try.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Sun, Nov 8, 2015 at 4:45 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the
> windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 295
> UV .if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never happen,
> I will use this tape method.
>
> Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>
> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
> method.  See link below:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert < 
> robertabb...@eastlink.ca> wrote:
>
>> Gary:
>>
>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>
>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure how
>> much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take the
>> old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV with
>> the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the curved
>> window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>
>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
>> to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Fred,
>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
>> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>  return to a flat shape?
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
>>> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
>>> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
>>> Johanna Rose:  
>>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>>
>>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>>
>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Paul,
>>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"
>>>  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the
>>> design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>>>
>>> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less
>>> scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading one
>>> problem for another.
>>>
>>>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the
>>> Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the
>>> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
>>> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>>>
>>>  Thoughts, anyone?
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>>> bottom of page at:
>>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
>> of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:http:/

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[robert via CnC-List]

I wish I had known about VHB tape a few years back when I replaced the 
windowsit sure would have made the job a lot easier than the Sika 
295 UV .if I ever have to do the job again, which I hope will never 
happen, I will use this tape method.


Thanks Gary for pointing this out and the video.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2015-11-07 8:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape 
method.  See link below:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1999 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA



~~~_/)~~


On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert > wrote:


Gary:

I sent you the process I used 'off list'.

The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly
sure how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea
when you take the old windows out and lay them on a flat
surface.   I used Sika 295 UV with the Sika primer and I also
wondered if this adhesive would hold the curved window(s) in
place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.

Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to
'brace them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my
'off list' email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to
ask.

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.



On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

Fred,
 The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is
starting to look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the
windows over the winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I
assume you would use the gray VHB tape with the gray silicone
sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape will be a problem with
peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows will have to be
bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I wonder if
that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
 return to a flat shape?

Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38
over the winter. I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now
(previous boat); this time, I’m going to try the VHB tape
with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on Johanna Rose:
http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.

I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the
outside edge.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in
Bayfield, WI   :^(


On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hi Paul,
  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club
has 5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design
experience would change the design.  I plan to go with 3/8"
acrylic. But then again...

  The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that
it is less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You
are probably trading one problem for another.

   As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The
write-up in the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be
flexible enough if (big if) the bond thickness is large
enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the adhesive to
make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".

   Thoughts, anyone?

Gary
S/V High Maintenance
'90 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA



___

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To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
go to the bottom of page at:
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___

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bottom of page at:
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___

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To 

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

We are using a surveyor we've worked with before. Jim Dias out of ct


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2015, at 7:20 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Who is the surveyor?
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 12:52 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Just joined the list, minutes ago. Hopefully a new C&C owner after the 
>> survey in 10 days. Enjoyed the boat works video. Noticed the the East 
>> Greenwich RI tag after Gary's name. That is where the survey will take 
>> place. Small world. Sorry for the hijack. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Nov 7, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> That boatworks guy has some great videos. Thanks for the link!
>>> 
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>> 
 On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Fred,
  Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating 
 (I think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 1990 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape 
> method.  See link below:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
>> Gary:
>> 
>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>> 
>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure 
>> how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you 
>> take the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 
>> 295 UV with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would 
>> hold the curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>> 
>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace 
>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' 
>> email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>>
>> 
>>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Fred,
>>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to 
>>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the 
>>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the 
>>> gray VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the 
>>> VHB tape will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so 
>>> the windows will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the 
>>> cabin.  I wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick  
>>>  acrylic trying to  return to a flat shape?
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
 On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the 
 winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this 
 time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul 
 did on Johanna Rose: 
 http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
 
 I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
 
 — Fred
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Paul,
>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 
> 5/16"  It amazes me that   people with no 
> marine design experience would change the design.  I plan to go with 
> 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
> 
> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is 
> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably 
> trading one problem for another.
> 
>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in 
> the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big 
> if) the bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass 
> beads to the adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get 
> thinner than 0.030".
> 
>  Thoughts, anyone?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 
 _

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Who is the surveyor?
Gary

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 12:52 PM, JP Mail via CnC-List  wrote:

> Just joined the list, minutes ago. Hopefully a new C&C owner after the
> survey in 10 days. Enjoyed the boat works video. Noticed the the East
> Greenwich RI tag after Gary's name. That is where the survey will take
> place. Small world. Sorry for the hijack.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 7, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That boatworks  guy has some
> great videos. Thanks for the link!
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Fred,
>>  Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating
>> (I think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
>>> method.  See link below:
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Gary:

 I sent you the process I used 'off list'.

 The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
 how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take
 the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
 with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
 curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.

 Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
 them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
 to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.



 On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

 Fred,
  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
 look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
 winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
 VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
 will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
 will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
 wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
  return to a flat shape?

 Gary

 ~~~_/)~~


 On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
> Johanna Rose: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>
>
> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
> WI   :^(
>
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has
> 5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would
> change the design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>
> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading
> one problem for another.
>
>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in
> the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) 
> the
> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>
>  Thoughts, anyone?
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


 ___

 Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubs

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows - welcome

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Thx. Me too. She looks well cared for. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2015, at 1:31 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Welcome to the list.  Hope the survey goes well.
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 11:52 AM, JP Mail via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Just joined the list, minutes ago. Hopefully a new C&C owner after the 
>> survey in 10 days. Enjoyed the boat works video. Noticed the the East 
>> Greenwich RI tag after Gary's name. That is where the survey will take 
>> place. Small world. Sorry for the hijack. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Nov 7, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> That boatworks guy has some great videos. Thanks for the link!
>>> 
>>> Steve
>>> Suhana, C&C 32
>>> Toronto
>>> 
 On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Fred,
  Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating 
 (I think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 1990 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape 
> method.  See link below:
> 
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> 
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
>> Gary:
>> 
>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>> 
>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure 
>> how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you 
>> take the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 
>> 295 UV with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would 
>> hold the curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>> 
>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace 
>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' 
>> email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>>
>> 
>>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>> Fred,
>>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to 
>>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the 
>>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the 
>>> gray VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the 
>>> VHB tape will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so 
>>> the windows will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the 
>>> cabin.  I wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick  
>>>  acrylic trying to  return to a flat shape?
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
 On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the 
 winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this 
 time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul 
 did on Johanna Rose: 
 http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
 
 I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
 
 — Fred
 
 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
 
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Hi Paul,
>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 
> 5/16"  It amazes me that   people with no 
> marine design experience would change the design.  I plan to go with 
> 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
> 
> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is 
> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably 
> trading one problem for another.
> 
>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in 
> the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big 
> if) the bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass 
> beads to the adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get 
> thinner than 0.030".
> 
>  Thoughts, anyone?
> 
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
 
 
 ___

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows - welcome

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Welcome to the list.  Hope the survey goes well.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 11:52 AM, JP Mail via CnC-List  wrote:

> Just joined the list, minutes ago. Hopefully a new C&C owner after the
> survey in 10 days. Enjoyed the boat works video. Noticed the the East
> Greenwich RI tag after Gary's name. That is where the survey will take
> place. Small world. Sorry for the hijack.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 7, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> That boatworks  guy has some
> great videos. Thanks for the link!
>
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
>
> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Fred,
>>  Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating
>> (I think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
>>> method.  See link below:
>>>
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert 
>>> wrote:
>>>
 Gary:

 I sent you the process I used 'off list'.

 The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
 how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take
 the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
 with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
 curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.

 Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
 them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
 to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.

 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.



 On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:

 Fred,
  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
 look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
 winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
 VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
 will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
 will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
 wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
  return to a flat shape?

 Gary

 ~~~_/)~~


 On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
> Johanna Rose: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>
>
> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>
> — Fred
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
> WI   :^(
>
> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Hi Paul,
>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has
> 5/16"  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would
> change the design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>
> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading
> one problem for another.
>
>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in
> the Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) 
> the
> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>
>  Thoughts, anyone?
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> '90 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>
>
>


 ___

 Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[JP Mail via CnC-List]

Just joined the list, minutes ago. Hopefully a new C&C owner after the survey 
in 10 days. Enjoyed the boat works video. Noticed the the East Greenwich RI tag 
after Gary's name. That is where the survey will take place. Small world. Sorry 
for the hijack. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2015, at 12:20 PM, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> That boatworks guy has some great videos. Thanks for the link!
> 
> Steve
> Suhana, C&C 32
> Toronto
> 
>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Fred,
>>  Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating (I 
>> think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> ~~~_/)~~
>> 
>> 
>>> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape method. 
>>>  See link below:
>>> 
>>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>> 
>>> 
 On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
 Gary:
 
 I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
 
 The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure how 
 much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take the 
 old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV with 
 the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the curved 
 window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
 
 Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace 
 them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' 
 email to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
 
 Rob Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32 - 84
 Halifax, N.S.
 

 
> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
> Fred,
>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to 
> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the 
> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the 
> gray VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB 
> tape will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the 
> windows will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the 
> cabin.  I wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic 
> trying to  return to a flat shape?
> 
> Gary
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the 
>> winter.I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous 
>> boat); this time, I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, 
>> like Paul did on Johanna Rose: 
>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>> 
>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>> 
>> — Fred
>> 
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>> 
>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hi Paul,
>>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16" 
>>>  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change 
>>> the design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>>> 
>>> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is 
>>> less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably 
>>> trading one problem for another.
>>> 
>>>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the 
>>> Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the 
>>> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to 
>>> the adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 
>>> 0.030".
>>> 
>>>  Thoughts, anyone?
>>> 
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
> bottom of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> __

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List]

That boatworks  guy has some
great videos. Thanks for the link!

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto

On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 9:10 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Fred,
>  Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating
> (I think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1990 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
>> method.  See link below:
>>
>> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>>
>> Gary
>> S/V High Maintenance
>> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>
>>
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
>>
>>> Gary:
>>>
>>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>>
>>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure
>>> how much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take
>>> the old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV
>>> with the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the
>>> curved window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>>
>>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
>>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
>>> to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>>
>>> Rob Abbott
>>> AZURA
>>> C&C 32 - 84
>>> Halifax, N.S.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>>
>>> Fred,
>>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
>>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
>>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
>>> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
>>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>>  return to a flat shape?
>>>
>>> Gary
>>>
>>> ~~~_/)~~
>>>
>>>
>>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
 Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
 winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
 I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
 Johanna Rose: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.

 I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.

 — Fred

 Fred Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

 On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

 Hi Paul,
  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"
  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the
 design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...

 The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is
 less scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading
 one problem for another.

  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the
 Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the
 bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
 adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".

  Thoughts, anyone?

 Gary
 S/V High Maintenance
 '90 C&C 37 Plus
 East Greenwich, RI, USA



 ___

 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
 bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com



>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>>
>>> Email address:CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the 
>>> bottom of page at:http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> Email address:
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
>> bottom of page at:
>> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
>>
>>
>>
>
> __

Re: Stus-List Fwd: Replacing Windows

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

Fred,
 Please note that the 3M VHB tape is available in black, eliminating (I
think) the need for Fusion Black paint.
Gary
S/V High Maintenance
1990 C&C 37 Plus
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Sat, Nov 7, 2015 at 7:37 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> There is a great BoatWorks video on Youtube describing the VHB tape
> method.  See link below:
>
> https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQyjxVUskd8
>
> Gary
> S/V High Maintenance
> 1999 C&C 37 Plus
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>
>
>
> ~~~_/)~~
>
>
> On Thu, Oct 22, 2015 at 9:51 AM, robert  wrote:
>
>> Gary:
>>
>> I sent you the process I used 'off list'.
>>
>> The 2 forward windows on my boat are also curved.not exactly sure how
>> much but it is noticeable.you can get a better idea when you take the
>> old windows out and lay them on a flat surface.   I used Sika 295 UV with
>> the Sika primer and I also wondered if this adhesive would hold the curved
>> window(s) in place.  It's been 6 seasons and no problems.
>>
>> Before installing the new windows, I wondered how I was going to 'brace
>> them' while the Sika cured.  I explained all of that in my 'off list' email
>> to you.  Any further questions, don't hesitate to ask.
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 - 84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2015-10-21 11:07 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List wrote:
>>
>> Fred,
>>  The VHB tape with DOW Corning 795 Silicone Sealant is starting to
>> look like and attractive method.  I am replacing the windows over the
>> winter, also.  We should keep in touch.  Do I assume you would use the gray
>> VHB tape with the gray silicone sealant?  I am wondering if the VHB tape
>> will be a problem with peel.  My cabin sides are curved, so the windows
>> will have to be bent slightly to conform to the side of the cabin.  I
>> wonder if that will be a problem with the 3/8" thick acrylic trying to
>>  return to a flat shape?
>>
>> Gary
>>
>> ~~~_/)~~
>>
>>
>> On Wed, Oct 21, 2015 at 2:03 PM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Gary — I’m going to be replacing the fixed windows on my LF38 over the
>>> winter.  I’ve done the Plexus thing twice now (previous boat); this time,
>>> I’m going to try the VHB tape with Dow 795 approach, like Paul did on
>>> Johanna Rose: http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/search/label/NewPorts.
>>>
>>> I’ll be using 3/8” bronze acrylic with a chamfer to the outside edge.
>>>
>>> — Fred
>>>
>>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>>
>>> On Oct 21, 2015, at 12:45 PM, Gary Russell via CnC-List <
>>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>>
>>> Hi Paul,
>>>  I agree that 1/4" is too thin.  The other 37+ at my club has 5/16"
>>>  It amazes me that people with no marine design experience would change the
>>> design.  I plan to go with 3/8" acrylic.  But then again...
>>>
>>> The problem with Lexan (which is a polycarbonate) is that it is less
>>> scratch resistant than Plexiglas (acrylic).  You are probably trading one
>>> problem for another.
>>>
>>>  As for Plexus vs Silka 295, I am really torn.  The write-up in the
>>> Photo Album suggest that Plexus will be flexible enough if (big if) the
>>> bond thickness is large enough.  To that end he added glass beads to the
>>> adhesive to make sure the bond thickness didn't get thinner than 0.030".
>>>
>>>  Thoughts, anyone?
>>>
>>> Gary
>>> S/V High Maintenance
>>> '90 C&C 37 Plus
>>> East Greenwich, RI, USA
>>>
>>>
>>>
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>>>
>>
>>
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