Re: [Drakelist] MN2700 knobs

[Barnhart David]

Are the MN2700 knobs the same as used on the MN-2000?  If so I have a donor 
MN-2000 with everything except the bandswitch knob.  Let me know if what I have 
will work for you.

73
Dave Barnhart
K7RPM


> On Oct 1, 2018, at 9:00 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:
> 
> Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
>   drakelist@zerobeat.net
> 
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>   http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>   drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
> 
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> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Drakelist digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Spare parts (Evert Bakker)
>   2. Drake 1A (Dale Parfitt)
>   3. Re: Spare parts (Jim Shorney)
>   4. Re: Spare parts (Joe Pyles)
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200
> From: "Evert Bakker" 
> To: 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: <004701d458ed$8e185600$aa490200$@pa2kw.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> Hello,
> 
> 
> 
> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now. 
> 
> But even time cracks quality.
> 
> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
> 
> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
> 
> 
> 
> 73's, Evert PA2KW 
> 
> -- next part --
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> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 15:28:10 -0400
> From: "Dale Parfitt" 
> To: 
> Subject: [Drakelist] Drake 1A
> Message-ID: <039501d458f3$b9811a10$2c834e30$@frontier.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I have a beautiful 1A that I am selling. After restoration,  one of the
> nicest I have seen. Powder coated  cabinet, polished aluminum front piece,
> modern  grounded power cord.  Has the calibrator, print of the manual. Any
> serious offers considered.
> 
> http://www.parelectronics.com/vintage-drake-1a.php
> 
> Dale W4OP
> 
> 
> 
> -- next part --
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> 
> --
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 18:34:21 -0500
> From: "Jim Shorney" 
> To: "drakelist@zerobeat.net" 
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: <20180930233424.8259840...@mail02.inebraska.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> 
> You probably won't find any unless someone has a parts donor unit. You will
> either have to fabricate your own, or pehaps an eBay searcy for "lever knob"
> under Consumer Electronics will turn up something from home audio units that
> will work. I see several from Pioneer, Sony, Craig, etc., that look promising.
> They won't be black though
> 
> 73
> 
> -Jim
> NU0C
> 
> 
> On Sun, 30 Sep 2018 20:44:00 +0200, Evert Bakker wrote:
> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now. 
>> 
>> But even time cracks quality.
>> 
>> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>> 
>> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 73's, Evert PA2KW 
>> 
>> 
> 
> --
> The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
> relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Mon, 01 Oct 2018 10:42:15 -0400
> From: Joe Pyles 
> To: "Evert Bakker" ,
> Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Spare parts
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
> 
> Fender Telecaster guitars have a similar switch to choose different 
> pickups and the knob looks like it would fit the Drake tuners. The 
> part number is 099-4936-000. I have ordered a few to see if they will 
> fit. If you search the Fender part number several places sell the 
> switch caps. I should get them any day from The Guitar Center and 
> will let you know if they fit the tuner switches.
> 
> 73, Joe Pyles KC9LAD
> 
> 
> At 02:44 PM 9/30/2018, Evert Bakker wrote:
>> Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
>>boundary="=_NextPart_000_0048_01D458FE.51AB5F30"
>> Content-Language: nl
>> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> I do have a Drake MN2700 tuner for many years now.
>> But even time cracks quality.
>> The platic "front knobs" which slides onto the 2 capacitor switches broke.
>> Is there anyone here who knows a source for a replacement?
>> 
>> 73's, Evert PA2KW
>> ___
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> 

Re: [Drakelist] R-4C IC Product Detector

[David Assaf III]

Byron: we;lcome to the adventure!

The 8 KC front end filter is very broad.  The previous owner must have been
an AM SWL?

Please read Sherwood's and Inrad's info on the roofing filter for the
 radio.  The r4c is the radio where the concept of the roofing filter was
made back in the 1970's.  It transforms a so so radio to a great one.
 Drake's r4c, stock, was actually a step backwards in performance.
 Many still claim the B line superior.  Modified, as you are doing will
erase that doubt.

The power supply is a necessary mod.  drake simply had one big power supply
and when they needed a different voltage they used large resistors.  With
age, these resistors change and you end up not knowing the actual voltage.

The audio and product detectors are a small increment in the performance of
the radio.  Please consider Sherwood's third mixer mod.  I chased the noise
in mine till I read his article and it was the second best thing I did
for mine (the roofing filters were the first).  Cannot tell you the number
of third mixer tubes I tried to make the receiver quiet,. Drake had three
or four third mixers in the radio.  They were aware of the noise,
technology was not there to fix it.  It is now.

I would not pull off the 10 volts on the Balanced modulator.  I would do
the 12 volts you need from a separate regulator at the power supply.  Look
at Sherwood's power supply mod.  It is all you need for any mod in the
radio.  The solid state mixer noted above will need that 12 volts as well.

One last thing if you do CW.  Look into the AGC mod offered by Sherwood.
 It is well worth the considerable trouble to do.  Good Luck!

David Assaf, III
W5XU



On Sun, Mar 31, 2013 at 8:53 PM, Byron Tatum bjtat...@att.net wrote:

 Hello-
 I am in the process of installing some upgrades in my R-4C, an early
 one (18K SN range) that has the 6HS6's. The INRAD 8 KC 5645 KC first
 IF filter was in when I bought it, so at least I have a little bit of
 protection for that second mixer.
 I upgraded the power supply with the 7812 regulator and better
 electrolytic caps all around, per WB4HFN info combined with Sherwood info.
 Today I built the IC product detector using a TL442CN, installed it
 and appears all is well. I thought I would post this as I believe the
 TL442CN is an obsolete device. The TI SN76514 is an identical chip, it was
 used in the Mihuzo 9 Mhz SSB boards as the balanced modulator. One thing, I
 am powering mine fom the +10 VDC that is provided for BFO, as that terminal
 was very near the module. Is itnecessary to have the full 12 VDC on the
 chip?
 I wish to do the sudio amp upgrade, mostly to get rid of the heat, but
 also to have a little better audio. I am thinking of going with the LM383T
 as done by Sherwood, but saw a video of an R-4C sporting a D-Labs audio
 upgrade. I cannot find any additional info on this. Thought I would ask for
 advice before I proceeded with the audio changes.
 Thanks, Byron WA5THJ

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Re: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7. Recommendations?

[David Assaf III]

agree with the comments.  At hamfests a great one goes for 650 to 750 with
all the filters.  Ebay is all over the place.  Might want to also try eham.
 Good luck and welcome back!
David Assaf, III
W5XU



On Fri, Mar 22, 2013 at 4:57 PM, Mark Nace n5...@swbell.net wrote:

 Good for you Tom !
 I would look for a later serial number TR-7, with the A type features.
 It may
 even be labeled a TR-7A.  Anyway, it is a great rig.  I started with a
 used one
 about 26 years ago, and mine is still going strong (a little TLC over the
 years
 has kept it that way!).  the serial number is in the 8600's, and had the
 A
 items already in it.  The ones on ebay right now are pretty neat, but one
 looks
 like it is a lower serial number.  They are VERY functional rigs actually,
 and
 don't have all the bells and whistles of todays rigs, but most of that
 stuff
 doesn't have much to do with catching the rare DX, or doing a great job of
 constesting !!!

 Best 73
 Mark
 N5KAE



 - Original Message 
  From: Tom Branton tbran...@alvincollege.edu
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Sent: Fri, March 22, 2013 4:43:25 PM
  Subject: [Drakelist] Returning to ham radio and considering a TR-7.
 Recommendations?
 
 
 
  Good afternoon everyone,
 
  After a long absence from ham radio I am excited about re-entering the
 hobby
 and I am interested in acquiring a TR-7.  It was my dream radio when
 career took
 me away from the hobby.
 
  Any words of wisdom you may have about the TR-7 would be most welcome.
  Is there anything I should particularly look for in a potential
 purchase? Any
 thoughts
  on what a TR-7 and power supply in good condition would cost? There is
 what
 appears to be a very nice one listed on EBay at
  the moment.
 
  Thanks and 73's
 
  Tom
  Ex WD5DFE
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Questioin re: Drake 2NT final Tube replacement

[David Assaf III]

Many forget the sweep tubes were used as the horizontal output tubes in TV
sets.  They ran hours at max conditions.  Unfortunately when they are used
in ham sets, the ability to exceed the grid and plate currents when tuning
gave these fine devices a bad wrap.  If you follow the book and tune as
asked, they will last a long time.
As to your question, the bias for the tubes are manufacturer sensitive.  As
Drake used mostly Sylvania tubes, they suggest to reuse the same.
David Assaf, III
W5XU



On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 1:40 PM, Charles Ring w...@roadrunner.com wrote:

  I've always questioned Drake's decision to use the 6HF5 in that
 transmitter. Sweep tubes made some sense for SSB at the time, but a CW
 transmitter meant for beginners? A 6146 would have been so much more
 forgiving and reliable.

 73 de W3NU



 On 3/21/2013 1341, Curt Gidding wrote:

  The manual suggests that the final 6HF5 be replaced with the same
 manufacturer tube as
 is in the xmtr.  How critical is this?  Is there one manufacturer that is
 better?  Tnx for your
 reply.

  Curt Gidding  KC9UNL



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Re: [Drakelist] T4XC

[David Adcock]

I cleaned the mode switch contacts and tried exchanging the injector
cable and still no receive in XMTR mode. Thanks for all your tips.

Dave

DCA iPad

On Dec 30, 2012, at 6:54 PM, Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com wrote:

 Hi agn,
Well, sounds like possibly a control problem, maybe in a switch, maybe in 
 a cable or cable connection.  If not that, then it sure looks like the T4XC's 
 PTO isn't putting out.
When you're in RCVR posn you do get xmtr output, as the rcvr's supplying 
 the PTO for both.  In the other posn's the xmtr is supplying it's own PTO 
 signal.  Now that you can't hear anything in the rcvr when you're using the 
 xmtr PTO, it's the xmtr PTO bad, or a connection between it and the rcvr.
When you cleaned things, did you get the cables back in the right places?  
 Probably not that as you're getting the rcvr PTO to the xmtr OK.  How did you 
 clean the switches?
 73,
 Al


 On 12/30/2012 5:23 PM, David Adcock wrote:
 Hi Al,

 No receive either. When it did work a few weeks ago receive was much 
 degraded.

 Dave
 W9DCA

 DCA iPad

 On Dec 30, 2012, at 4:19 PM, Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com wrote:

 Hi Dave,
Does the R4- receive when the XMTR mode is selected?  If not, it sounds 
 like the PTO in the T4X-C isn't operating.
 73,

 Al, W8UT
 www.boatanchors.org
 www.hammarlund.info

 There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
 worth doing as simply messing about in boats
 Ratty, to Mole

 On 12/30/2012 5:07 PM, David Adcock wrote:
 My T4XC will transceive with RCVR selected but, will not in separate
 or in XMTR modes. I've cleaned switches and checked tubes for power.
 Anyone have any tips on this issue?

 Dave
 DCA iPad

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[Drakelist] T4XC

[David Adcock]

My T4XC will transceive with RCVR selected but, will not in separate
or in XMTR modes. I've cleaned switches and checked tubes for power.
Anyone have any tips on this issue?

Dave
DCA iPad

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Re: [Drakelist] T4XC

[David Adcock]

Hi Al,

No receive either. When it did work a few weeks ago receive was much degraded.

Dave
W9DCA

DCA iPad

On Dec 30, 2012, at 4:19 PM, Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com wrote:

 Hi Dave,
Does the R4- receive when the XMTR mode is selected?  If not, it sounds 
 like the PTO in the T4X-C isn't operating.
 73,

 Al, W8UT
 www.boatanchors.org
 www.hammarlund.info

 There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
 worth doing as simply messing about in boats
 Ratty, to Mole

 On 12/30/2012 5:07 PM, David Adcock wrote:
 My T4XC will transceive with RCVR selected but, will not in separate
 or in XMTR modes. I've cleaned switches and checked tubes for power.
 Anyone have any tips on this issue?

 Dave
 DCA iPad

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Re: [Drakelist] Drakelist Digest, Vol 54, Issue 10 TR 3

[David Assaf III]

Incidentially and as you may wish, there is an old circuit that is simple
and effective to add CW break in for a tr3.  Did it 3 times and worked very
well.  I beleive it is an old article in CQ mag.

On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 9:34 PM, Bill skidmore sxc...@gmail.com wrote:

 The comment about the sideband filter in the TR 3 is not to be passed over
 lightly. If you have a problem there, you are in deep trouble. I carefully
 took the surrounding shield off my problem filter and repaired it, then put
 it together again. I was lucky I didn't break something.

 All the other comments, concerning historic equipment, TR 3 as a poor CW
 rig, etc, are spot on.
 Buy it anyway! These things keep us from going brain dead using multi-band
 CB equipment.

 73, Bill, VE3AUI
 On 2012-12-12 3:28 AM, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:

 Send Drakelist mailing list submissions to
 drakelist@zerobeat.net

 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
 http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
 drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net

 You can reach the person managing the list at
 drakelist-ow...@zerobeat.net

 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
 than Re: Contents of Drakelist digest...


 Today's Topics:

1. Re: TR-3 (Al Parker)
2. Re: TR-3 (Lee Hiers)
3. Re: TR-3 (John King)
4. Re: TR-3 (David Assaf III)


 --

 Message: 1
 Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2012 14:17:35 -0500
 From: Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com
 To: lane denune lanerda...@yahoo.com
 Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
 Message-ID: 50c786cf.60...@ec.rr.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

 Hi,
 The deal killer in the TR-3 is the SB filter.  They often go
 bad on
 one sideband, still get some thru, but way low.  Check output on 20m and
 on 15m, they should be close, and above 125 watts out.  Actual value
 could be more (hopefully), but will depend upon alignment.  Normally 15m
 output will be a little less than on 20m, but not more than say 20 watts
 less, if the final tubes are reasonably good.  You should be able to
 load up to about the same plate current on both bands.
 Other than that possible problem, the TR-3 can be a good rig for
 SSB
 operation, usually at a good price, also.  S-meter often seems stingy,
 just turn up the AF gain if needed, signals are there.  Definitely check
 out the p.s. and replace the bias filter cap at least.
 73,

 Al, W8UT
 www.boatanchors.org
 www.hammarlund.info

 There is nothing -- absolutely nothing -- half so much
 worth doing as simply messing about in boats
 Ratty, to Mole

 On 12/11/2012 12:09 AM, lane denune wrote:
Hi Guys ; Considering a fully functional TR-3 from the owner of 15yrs.
  I've been invited to try it on the air at his shack before I take it.
  Being a relative newbie to Drake equipment, is there any particular
  areas to consider with the TR3 other than the obvious and general
  operating condition?
I don't recall anything negative in particular about this vintage
  radio. I will upgrade the power supply and finals..Anything come to
 mind?
   Thanks 73 de n8aft.
 
 
 
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 --

 Message: 2
 Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2012 15:12:38 -0500
 From: Lee Hiers lee.hi...@gmail.com
 To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
 Message-ID:
 CAEEr=
 7nzbfs+eqfb4pgsgngmzow8jodkwph5dhyxcvfk8hx...@mail.gmail.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 12:00 PM,
 lanerda...@yahoo.comdrakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
  wrote:

 Being a relative newbie to Drake equipment, is there any particular areas
  to consider with the TR3 other than the obvious and general operating
  condition?
  ?I don't recall anything negative in particular about this vintage
 radio.


 For one, it's a terrible CW radio...if that matters to you.

 73 de Lee
 --
 Lee Hiers, AA4GA
 www.aa4ga.com

 Submit your totals to the unofficial QRP DXCC standings - go to *
 http://www.aa4ga.com/p/qrp-dxcc.html* for more info!
 -- next part --
 An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
 URL: 
 http://mailman.zerobeat.net/pipermail/drakelist/attachments/20121211/5c1b2219/attachment-0001.html
 

 --

 Message: 3
 Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2012 15:43:52 -0800 (PST)
 From: John King k5...@yahoo.com
 To: Lee Hiers lee.hi...@gmail.com,drakelist@zerobeat.net
 drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-3
 Message-ID:
 1355269432.77968.yahoomail...@web121303.mail.ne1.yahoo.com
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

 Should you buy a TR3? I think the answer

Re: [Drakelist] TR-3

[David Assaf III]

Hear, Hear!.  I agree with John.  What  we do with these old radios vary
with the number owned and sold: endless.  But for me, I enjoy the
simplicity and the warmth that using a piece of history gives me.  Have a
few radios, the old tube ones are the favorite.
I say go for it and fix it and clean it and learn to love it.



On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 5:43 PM, John King k5...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Should you buy a TR3? I think the answer should be given after determining
 what he plans to do with it. One reason to purchase a Drake TR3 is the
 historic value to the hobby.I have been licensed for almost 54 years and
 have grown with the hobby from 6AG7/807 tube transmitter and Hallicrafters
 S40A receiver. They were wonderful for the purpose for which they were
 built and intended to been used. They are not my gear that I use regularly,
 but they bring back wonderful memories. I have one hundred of more radios
 from 1940 until present. I am NOT A COLLECTOR but I accumulate tube type
 radios of all manufacturers because of what they were and what they still
 are. Swan was pioneer in the transceiver field and did a great job from the
 SW 175 and continued for many years, even after being bought out by Cubic
 Communications.

 The TR3 is historic because it was R.L. Drake's FIRST transceiver. I HAVE
 A TR3 THAT I BOUGHT REASONABLY OFF EBAY IN NON WORKING CONDITION AND VERY
 DIRTY. Today it is a nice looking and working radio. Do I use it
 everydayNO!! WHY? I have the first model receiver that Drake built, the
 Drake 1A serial number 518 of 1000 built. When built, it was arguably the
 best receiver made in its' day( I also own a Collins 75A1, 75A2, and 75A4,
 for comparison). l am not bragging, just pointing out my perspective. I own
 a Drake 2A. Drake 2B, TR4 (that I use almost daily for net operation, R4,
 T4X,R4B,R4C,and T4XC and a great Drake L4B amp. No, they are not the
 $10,000.00+, Icom or the latest Kenwood, Orion or other solid state rig.

 The TR3 basically popularized the use of transceivers. There are many hams
 today who may not be able to operate separates. Other companies had gotten
 into the transceiver production, but not as affordable and basic as the TR3.

 My suggestion is that if you expect an almost owner inability rig to
 repair, digital readout with 3,000 memories, 65 push buttons, DON'T BUY the
 TR3, BUT SOME DAY' you might wish you could find one to buy.

 This is not intended to start a THREAD, it is just my opinion. If anyone
 wants to attack my opinion, don't bother the reflector with it, feel free
 to reply DIRECTLY to me.  73, John, K5PGW



  lee.hi...@gmail.com
  *To:* drakelist@zerobeat.net
 *Sent:* Tuesday, December 11, 2012 12:12 PM
 *Subject:* Re: [Drakelist] TR-3

 On Tue, Dec 11, 2012 at 12:00 PM, 
 lanerda...@yahoo.comdrakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net
  wrote:

 Being a relative newbie to Drake equipment, is there any particular areas
 to consider with the TR3 other than the obvious and general operating
 condition?
 ?I don't recall anything negative in particular about this vintage radio.


 For one, it's a terrible CW radio...if that matters to you.

 73 de Lee
 --
 Lee Hiers, AA4GA
 www.aa4ga.com

 Submit your totals to the unofficial QRP DXCC standings - go to *
 http://www.aa4ga.com/p/qrp-dxcc.html* for more info!



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-- 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
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Re: [Drakelist] Please unsubscribe me from this list

[David Goncalves]

Yeah, this email was the last straw for me as well - unsubscribe me too.

Gaddamn hamfists mashing knobs...

David Goncalves - with the light touch...

On Wed, Nov 14, 2012 at 7:52 AM, centi...@nym.hush.com wrote:

 Please unsubscribe me from this list

 On Tuesday, November 13, 2012 at 5:42 PM, MARK DOSSETT 
 markjdoss...@gmail.com wrote:

 The band change knob on my MN-2000 broke in half the other day. Is there a
 source for suitable replacement?

 --
 Mark J Dossett - K6MJD




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-- 
David Goncalves
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[Drakelist] Drake TR-3 station for sale

[David Rinehart]

FS: Drake station
Sold only as a set
TR3, in good working order(over 100 watts into dummy load on 15 mtrs.)
worked K3LR (was contesting) w/ a 15m groundplane on 10/27(Finals are
strong. Audio reports good, cosmetics good
Original manual and sales brochure and separate factory RMA tag and
instructions , and copy of Drake distributor letter from 1965 to Drake rep
in Panama plus bound photocopy of manual
Also included are a new set of Sylvania finals and a new driver tube (from
Tubes  more-tested and not used-not matched)
Shure M444mic with the Drake plug-this was used regularly with the unit.
(2)dc supplies-a Linear Systems “Century 400-12m” w/all orig docs  cables
for TR3. Its the one I use and works well. Other is Drake dc-4
(w/origdocs)(works,proper output volts, but has orig caps and needs plug (1
new plug supplied) and redo cables.
$400.00 plus half cost of shipping (usps)and insurance. Boxes freePostal
mail orders or paypal only
Questions? 702 418 6765 Dave KF7OVL  kf7ovl at gmail dot com
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[Drakelist] FS Drake PS-7 ,Parts Wanted

[David Durant]

FOR SALE DRAKE PS-7 power supply good condition $90 plus shipping.WANTED WANTED 
AM and CW filters ,noise blanker and service manual for the TR7,also want 
junker TR7 and R7 partial or complete chassis.Contact David at 1-251-478-8823 
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Re: [Drakelist] Test

[David Assaf]

Me too!

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Mar 8, 2012, at 9:57, Donley donley...@comcast.net wrote:

 I lost my connection to the Drakelist and am testing to see if it has been 
 restored.
  
 Richard
  
  
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Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

[David Box]

Stew

Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage 
breakdown of the bleeder resistor.  While we normally think of resistors 
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that 
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to 
ground.  I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and 
ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher 
voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load).  In that case removed the 2 50K 
bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a 
couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis 
before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor 
bodies from the chassis.  These particular resistors had about a 2KV 
breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface.  
I don't remember what the actual voltage limit  across the resistor was 
but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop 
in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation 
in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit 
for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power 
is 630V) .  The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain 
in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to 
ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing 
them more than needed.


The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier.  So 
if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be 
apparent until you hook up to the amp.  My initial mounting arrangement 
had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb 
idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs.  I would 
test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp 
and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis.


The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due 
to operating point shift which was done by placing 2 5.6 V zeners in 
series with filament center tap.  This has been working fine now for 8 
years.


73 de K5MWR


Date: Mon, 20 Feb 2012 07:26:18 -0800 (PST)
From: GALE STEWARDk...@yahoo.com
To: Dino Papask...@cox.net, Mail List - Drake Gear Drake Gear
drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L-4B/L7 Power Supply Rebuilds
Message-ID:
1329751578.83763.yahoomail...@web110514.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1
A timely question about the L4/L7 bleeder resistors. I recently had an issue 
with one of my L4PS supplies. It turned out to be a bad cap which I replaced. 
I'm going to install a Heathkit Shop board eventually but I wanted to get the 
amp back on line for use in the ARRL CW DX contest. While the supply was open I 
checked the 50W bleeder resistors and found them both open. I replaced both 
with new Ohmite resistors.


Sunday morning at about 1230Z, one of the new bleeders failed in dramatic 
fashion by lighting up like a 100W bulb. I quickly swapped in another L4PS and 
continued on. Last night after the contest I opened up the failed supply to 
find that the resistors had failed but all other components were all OK (no bad 
caps, etc.).

I replaced the failed bleeder (again) and all was again normal.

I'm still quite puzzled as to why this resistor failed in the first place.

GL with the project.

73, Stew K3ND



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Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

[David Box]

  
  
Would agree with you about the input AC power, but if you look at
the high voltage the high voltage return side is not tied to the PS
chassis but runs to Pin 6 of the power connector and then in the
amplifier where it is only tied directly to chassis when the
interlock switch is engaged. The interlock switch also shorts the
HV to amplifier chassis ground. 

Under normal operation the high voltage return feeds through the
plate current meter and to the center-tap of the filament
transformer with a 1ohm 10W resistor to ground, this 1 ohm resistor
forms the voltage necessary for the grid current measurement as the
grids are tied to chassis and the voltage across this resistor is
only due to grid current. This metering arrangement for both plate
current and grid require that the HV return not be tied to chassis
in either the PS or amplifier. 

Pin 7 of the power connector is used to tie the PS and Amplifier
chassis together. So when you are using just the supply the chassis
is at AC power ground but the high voltage return is floating with
respect to chassis. With the cable connected to the amplifier there
is the meter resistance in series with 1 ohm resistor to ground
which is the change that does result in the PS chassis referenced to
HV and therefore you can arc the bleeders if you do something stupid
like I did of not providing a good HV isolation mount for the
bleeders.

Playing with these units is not something to be done without a lot
of prior thought and making sure you really understand the entire
circuit and safety precautions needed. I was probably lucky in not
destroying the meter and other parts.

73 de K5MWR


On 2/20/2012 11:08 AM, K9sqg wrote:
As a side note, a properly wired L4, L4B, or L7
  power supply chassis is ALWAYS at ground potential for safety
  reasons. The safety ground from the outlet goes directly to
  the chassis of the power supply, whether or not the RF deck is
  plugged into it or not.

  
A number of years ago, there was a
production flaw in the Dale resistors (pitting, gaps, etc. )
in the ceramic that led to flashover on the ends of the
resistor.
  

  
Nit: the L4 power supply used two
100K 50 watt resistors while L4B/L7 supplies typically used
50K 50 watt resistors.
  

  

  

  
  -Original Message-
From: David Box david_...@comcast.net
To: k3nd k...@yahoo.com
Cc: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, Feb 20, 2012 12:30 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds


  Stew

Based on your description my expectation is that you had a voltage 
breakdown of the bleeder resistor.  While we normally think of resistors 
in terms of the power they can dissipate, there is a voltage limit that 
can be sustained across the resistor as well as from the body to 
ground.  I learned this the hard way when I had a transformer fail and 
ended up replacing it with a P. Dahl transformer with a 10% higher 
voltage. (3100 V no load, 2950 V load).  In that case removed the 2 50K 
bleeders and installed 10 20k 20W resistors mounted on standoffs, lost a 
couple of those due to voltage punch through from resistor to chassis 
before understanding the issue and properly insulating the resistor 
bodies from the chassis.  These particular resistors had about a 2KV 
breakdown limit through the ceramic insulator to the resistor surface.  
I don't remember what the actual voltage limit  across the resistor was 
but is the reason that I used the 10 devices in order to keep the drop 
in the 300V range per resistor as well as keeping the power dissipation 
in the 5W range, I think around 1K volts was the voltage breakdown limit 
for the devices I had on hand, but not sure (voltage limit due to power 
is 630V) .  The original Drake 50K 50W bleeders obviously could sustain 
in the 1500V range across the device, not sure what their rating to 
ground was, but the power limit is at 1.581KV which I think is pushing 
them more than needed.

The L4PS chassis is not at ground until you hook to the amplifier.  So 
if you have a resistor body that can flash over to ground it will not be 
apparent until you hook up to the amp.  My initial mounting arrangement 
had the resistors heat sunk to the chassis which turned out to be a dumb 
idea and was corrected by mounting the resistors on standoffs.  I would 
test the supply out on the bench, worked great then hook up to the amp 
and experienced quite a light show as the resistors arced to chassis.

The above transformer change also required adjusting the bias level due 
to operating point

Re: [Drakelist] L4B/L7 Power Power Supply Rebuilds

[David Box]

  
  
John

There is a ground wire in the cable that connects to pin 7 on both
PS and amplifier that ties the chassis together. As I understand
the metering system of the L4B/L7 you will always have the high
voltage return sitting slightly above chassis due to the grid
current through the 1 ohm resistor. Thats not much but, you cannot
tie the HV return directly to chassis or will lose the metering
based on my understanding. 

Where the real danger can come is if working on the PS
independently, you can get in trouble if you make the assumption
that the HV return is grounded. Actually when working on the PS you
can use a jumper to short the HV return to the chassis which would
probably be safer in that TEST configuration and allow you to catch
any issues with voltage breakdown due to wire routing or component
placement.

Playing with 3000 volts at these current levels is a full contact
sport and not something for casual or inexperienced operators. This
stuff KILLS.

73 de K5MWR

On 2/20/2012 7:58 PM, w4...@aol.com wrote:

  
  
  
To be on the safe side, bond the amplifier chassis and the
  PS chassis together with a suitable length of shield from a
  piece of coax or similar cable. It certainly makes a big
  difference with the Hallicrafters SR-2000 Hurricaneand P-2000
  power supply. It is probably not a bad idea with any two piece
  rig either transceiver or amplifier.

73,

John, W4AWM
  

  


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Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity

[David]

Agree.  Using an ohm meter would show little unless zero.  For example, if
the resistance caused by the pin adds 0.1 ohm, then for a 15 amp filament,
that is a 1.5 volt drop; 30% less than normal.  If you had a grid to
filament short you were right on time for the new year's fireworks.

I have also read MANY YEARS AGO THAT THE REDISH COLOR IS A HEALTHY NORMAL,
so unless there is a crack in the glass, running it hot when the filaments
are fixed, should get it back to the right unclouded condition.  

Again, careful!

Good luck.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2012 10:26 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] L4B oddity


Do you ever run with color on the plates? It's required that they get a
little bit red in operation for the gettering to work.

Also, just a tiny bit of extra resistance in the filament pin is all it
takes to dim a tube. An ordinary Ohmmeter won't register the difference.

73

-Jim


On Tue, 3 Jan 2012 22:00:06 -0600, richard radke wrote:

All,

Thanks to everyone who made suggestions.  Solder on the pins all look 
ok. .5½'s on each filament.  I'm guessing a grid to filament short/ 
leak when it gets hot.  I did notice a slight bit of clouding near the 
top of the envelope that wasn't there before. Maybe from running the 
filament with way less than 5V. Thoughts ?  At any rate, a replacement 
3-400Z is gonna be hard to find (out of production for
years) so I'll probably just get a new 3-500 to go with the one I 
already have.

Rick
W9WS



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[David]

The thread for the Sherwood modifications started with Max asking which ones
would be useful.  In my reply email and others tried to answer the question
for Max.  Hope this effort was useful to him.

I was surprised, however, to see such a staunch group that insists that the
Drakes stay pristine.  While I do not condone hackers and butchers (have one
really sad case now on the bench from some person who cared little of what
the radio was), I do believe there are mods that would enhance the use of
the radio.  For example, would anyone not recommend the grounding braid on a
PTO that obviously has lost the ability to provide its own ground?  Such a
modification enhances the pleasure of the use of the radio.  Not doing it
keeps that radio generally useless.  

And so it is for the Sherwood Mods.  When I did mine it was on a set that
was already partially modified by Sherwood.  It was at a point in time where
I could not afford anything else than a used set of Drakes.  It was my only
radio.  Modifications to the radio for my purposes made the enjoyment even
deeper and it is the reason while 30 years later I still have them.

So, while it is purist to state that the Drakes should stay pristine, we all
know and accept that those modified with a true and correct intent to fix
and enhance the operation was for me, and many, a choice that would have
otherwise frustrated us to another hobby.

The term  different strokes for different folks...   How we all use and
love our Drake radios is unique.  There simply is not a single right or
wrong way; so it is with the modifications.

Enjoyed the thread.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of kc9...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, January 01, 2012 3:22 PM
To: w...@arrl.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

Paul,
Absolutely true...Rob Sherwoods design is top notch...and throwing a few
parts you find around will NOT get you the same result.
There's a lot more to it than those that have not really looked into it or
have it would realize.

I think for the design, quality of parts and the kind of parts needed Rob's
prices are reasonable.
The PS and Audio amp...well yes you could roll your own there...but better
to just get the board s from him and install it yourself...IF you have the
tools  abilities.

73,
Lee



-Original Message-
From: Paul Christensen w...@arrl.net
To: drakel...@.zerobeat.net drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sun, Jan 1, 2012 1:34 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods


Most of Parts for the Sherwood MODS are not cheap...the relays alone 
for the filter swich board are $20 each + and you need several.
Also, you need to be pretty creative to get it all in there...pretty 
tight in places.

Yes, a tight fit, put perfectly manageable.  Keep in mind that the Teledyne
relays used for the filter switch are designed for RF applications and
hence, the high cost.  The entire relay board assembly was designed to
eliminate filter leakage and blow-by.  Take a look at the Sherwood
ultimate filter rejection spec and it's easily to see where the buyer's
money is going.

Paul, W9AC





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Re: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity

[David]

Do a very close and careful check of the filament pins on the tube.  The
tube sockets used were notorious for relaxing the friction connection on the
pins; the higher resistance created heat and the solder of the pins flowed
out.  The fix is to resolder the pins Careful not to overheat 

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of richard radke
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 6:31 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] L4B Oddity

I have an unusual situation underway in my L4B.  Evan, you out there?  Been
working fine until yesterday (i know, well happy new
year) one of the 3-400's filaments is half as bright as the other.  I
reversed the tubes and the same tube was dimmer in the opposite hole, and
the amp and supply  seems like they're running hotter than normal. HV is
normal, but haven't keyed it yet or applied drive.  Pwr supply was rebuilt a
couple years ago with one of Mike's boards.  Has anyone seen a tube fail
like this?  Being a week after xmas and the YL's birthday Friday, not real
anxious to spend 5 big ones on a pair of 3-500's right now, but a guys gotta
do what a guys gotta do.

2nd question. I've got one 3-500 spare that I believe to be good. Has anyone
ever mixed a 3-400 and a 3-500 in the same amp?  Only for testing purposes.
Just asking.

Rick
W9WS

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Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[David]

Thank you both for the comments and the affirmation.  Yes, it is indeed the
Owner of the radio that determines the best for him and for his needs.  I
marvel at the asking price for the Sherwood R4c radios.  I do not know if
they get the for that cost, but for me at my time, what money I put into my
radios enhanced my dedication to them, not destroyed it. 
 
I was aware of the braid issue, yet many would say if it did not have it
from the factory that it was wrong to fix a broken radio!.

Thanks for your gentle reply.  As I age I see the huge variety of answers to
such a simple question that Max proposed. 

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Don Cunningham [mailto:d...@martineer.net] 
Sent: Monday, January 02, 2012 7:28 PM
To: David; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

David,
I think you will find that in any group.  One group will ONLY stay stock,
even going so far as to gut and re-stuff paper caps with new poly caps,
remelting beeswax back in the ends!  The other group to the other side will
make it a whole new radio (look at the reworked TR7 on WB4HFN's site for
an example of that!!  The braid mod you mentioned was a Drake factory fix to
a problem found.  There are many such things Drake put out to fix known
engineering oversights.  They remained in business for MANY years past the
sales of the first rigs, and found need to do that for most of the line. 
That's just not the same thing as the full Monte Sherwood job.

  What most of us said to the original question was that it was up to how he
intended to use the rig and what he expected to get out of it when he was
finished with it.  If using it from now on, do what you want.  If fixing
it to use and sell in a few months, you won't get close to your investment
back.  Most threads get hijacked and twisted, that's one of the problems
with lists.

In the end, each man (or woman's) gear is theirs, and they should do what
they wish with it.  If you ask, you should be ready to get ALL views, not
just the ones you wanted to get, hi.
73, and enjoy those Drakes, or Frankendrakes, both, Don, WB5HAK

 



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Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

[David]

You may wish to consider the following:

 

Solid state mixer mod:  The 6EQ7 (I believe) is notoriously prone to
microphonics and earlier I had purchased several spare tubes  just for this
reason.  They were hard to get then.  They did not last long, so this mod
essentially solved the problem and resulted in a much quieter unit.

 

Solid state product detector: The original product detector was a simple and
poor design originating to the R blank line; this fixes the unit and makes
the detection more robust and less prone to producing noise.

 

Solid state power supply and capacitor kit (actually 2 kits here):  many of
the mods need a clean and regulated source of DC power.  This mod replaces
the original capacitors (probably in need of that any way) and PROVIDES A
NEW POWER SUPPLY for the radio.  Even up to the C line, when Drake needed a
voltage less than 250 VDC, they inserted a (generally) big resistor in the
line.  This was true for the few solid state devices that were in the radio
to start with.  This cleans it up by providing a clean and regulated source
of DC power and allows the radio to run at less DC current on the power
supply.  Less current, less heat and less wear on the power transformer.

 

The best thing you can do for the radio and the modification that wakes up
an otherwise lethargic radio is the 600 Cy roofing filter in the first IF.
This is the first application (that I know of) of the roofing filter concept
for improved CW operation.  It is an amazing modification and turns an ok
radio into a sprinter.  By measurement, the modified R4C has a 2 KC dynamic
range of in the 80 dB range.  Up until 15 years ago this was a measurement
not worth doing as no radio could perform in that regard.  You simply
accepted what the manufacturer, any, gave you .  It took an otherwise good
radio and made it a champ.  As I work DX only, it made working a pile up or
a contest a pleasure instead of a chore.  It is truly amazing and
essentially is what put Sherwood on the radio map.  Incidentally, it was
Bob's poor showing using a pair of new R4Cs on the ARRL 160M CW contest that
gave birth to the first roofing filter.  Since the intro of this mod, the
other manufacturers have copied it and offer it in their new designs.  It
all began here with the R4C mod that Bob Sherwood did in the 60's.  The
articles in Ham Radio where they were first published are considered
classics.  If you do but one of the modifications, do this one.  

 

Lastly, the audio amplifier tube and circuit can be replaced with a solid
state unit.  It provides cleaner audio and reduces the heat and current draw
even further.

 

The radio I have has some of the home brew items of those articles as well
as the modules purchased from Sherwood.  I would recommend going the
purchase route as all of the chore of mounting and part placement is already
worked out in the radio for you. 

 

Good luck on your adventure.  You will not be sorry.  There are other mods
that I have considered but not done that would incrementally improve the
radio, but do not have them.  There are also some simple mods for the T4X as
well and I have used some of these as well.  There are some that say that
such modifications are heresy and should not be done to keep the stable pure
and true.  I do believe it is because of these mods that Drake is still
alive in the contesting field.  I would rather take the pleasure of using a
modified radio than have a pristine original that I would never use.

 

What you will end up with is a vastly improved radio, beyond what Drake
could have imagined.  It holds its on with any other radio I have ever used,
Yaesu 1000, Orion, Omni 6+ (with the IRC roofing filter), Kenwood.  You get
the added smell and history and that full bodied sound that only the tube
radios have.

 

Keep in touch and go for it!  I envy you for the great adventure you are
about to embark on!

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Friday, December 30, 2011 5:49 PM
To: AirRadio; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R4C Sherwood mods

 

Hi, Max - 

 

I'd go for the mods that improve on the solid-state circuits.  Because of
the period when these radios were made, many of the early solid-state
circuits that were used in the C's have had significant improvements -
particularly the audio chain.

 

I owned a couple of C-Line sets (one early and one late) and both had the
Sherwood audio amps - which I consider to be worthwhile.  There was another
mod that may not have been Sherwood that involved the third mixer and
placing an RF choke there (IIRC, it was in the cathode circuit, but we're
dealing with a 25-year-old memory here...) - it applied only to the
late-production and got rid of much of the hiss in the audio.

 

Bear in mind that a lot of those mods turned the C-Line into contest-ready
radios, which - if you're only operating casually

[Drakelist] FW: MC4016P for the UV3

[David]

Hanks to Curt, KU8L, I have received the MC4016P chips.  BGMicro had a
zillion of them.  Put one in place of the bad one and still no joy.  It is
locking up on a different frequency.  Note the test was after I tried a good
divider board from the other unit and it worked fine.  

So, does anyone know if a source of extender boards for the UV3?  The one
needed is to essentially extend the connection of a 22 pin, double sided
computer board type socket.  After that I can then trouble shoot further.
After this is fixed, I will tackle the no output on the 440 board.

Many thanks for the help. 

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: David Assaf [mailto:w...@cox.net] 
Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2011 8:45 AM
To: David 3
Subject: Re: MC4016P

Have them ordered. Again many thanks for the tip. Will be nice to get this
one off the bench. Have more in line. Hopefully it will do the trick. 

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Oct 25, 2011, at 10:54, David 3 w...@cox.net wrote:

 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Curt [mailto:cptc...@flash.net]
 Sent: Monday, October 10, 2011 9:35 AM
 To: David
 Subject: MC4016P
 
 Think I got the last ones I used here.  Not certain because its been a 
 while but I see they still have them listed and addable to their 
 shopping carts.
 
 Hope this helps..let me know how it goes and if they are not 
 available, I will look deeper here.
 
 Curt
 KU8L
 
 http://www.bgmicro.com/ics1028.aspx
 


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Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

Update:
The source of the MC 4016P on EBay alas was a false hope.  What I purchased
from the vendor was correct but what was sent was  wrong.  I was  sent the
MC 14016P WHICH IS THE WRONG CHIP AND A 14 Pin DIP.  The chip I need is the
16 pin DIP Plastic package.  Some of you are looking, and many thanks.  Any
help would be appreciated.  Amazing the same number produces differing
results.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: David [mailto:w...@cox.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, October 11, 2011 9:06 PM
To: 'MICHAEL TALLENT'
Subject: RE: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

Thanks at least for looking.  Some of these old and obsolete parts can be a
challenge.  They are out there, just difficult to find.

Appreciate the effort.

David Assaf, III
W5XU


-Original Message-
From: MICHAEL TALLENT [mailto:mwtall...@comcast.net]
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 11:04 AM
To: David
Cc: Drakelist
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

The MC4316 would also work, it is the full temperature range device if you
can find it.  The MC4016 is similar in function to the 74160 TTL IC but only
the power and ground pins are the same.

I looked through my IC stuff as I have a lot of the older types but don't
have any MC4016 decade counters.

Mike T  W6MXV

- Original Message -
From: David w...@cox.net
To: k4...@mindspring.com
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 9:39 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board


 No, it is the 16 dip plastic package.Even the china references are
 saying they do not have any!

 David Assaf, III
 W5XU

 -Original Message-
 From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com]
 Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:33 PM
 To: David
 Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
 Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

 David -

 If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, 
 Digi-Key and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.

 Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide 
 temperature version.

 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA

 Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
 and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
 www.k4oah.com


 David wrote:

 Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
 Any sources?

 David Assaf, III

 W5XU



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 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2012.0.1831 / Virus Database: 2085/4543 - Release Date: 
 10/07/11


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Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

Well, many thanks to all for helpful references.  I was directed to eBay and
purchased apparently NOS for about $1.60 each.  I will let all know the
results.  If this is a fix, will be looking to complete the UV# with a 220
MHz module if available.  Also, the 440 receives but no output.  So, still
some work left.

Incidentally, the email /internet search robots resulted in 12 or so Chinese
replies for the IC.  The costs ranged from $53, to 87 cents each for a
minimum quantity of 100.  Most interesting.

Again thanks.  Will keep all posted on the progress.



David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: David [mailto:w...@cox.net] 
Sent: Sunday, October 09, 2011 8:40 AM
To: 'k4...@mindspring.com'
Cc: 'drakelist@zerobeat.net'
Subject: RE: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

No, it is the 16 dip plastic package.Even the china references are
saying they do not have any!

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:33 PM
To: David
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

David -

If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, Digi-Key
and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.

Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide
temperature version.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


David wrote:

 Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
Any sources?

 David Assaf, III

 W5XU



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Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

No, it is the 16 dip plastic package.Even the china references are
saying they do not have any!

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Friday, October 07, 2011 9:33 PM
To: David
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

David -

If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, Digi-Key
and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.

Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide
temperature version.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


David wrote:

 Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
Any sources?

 David Assaf, III

 W5XU



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Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

So, the mc4016P is equivalent to the mc 14016P.  This is a 16 DIP plastic
case, divide by N  from 0 to 9.  The one that is bad is U 706 in the divider
board used as a counter, but there are several others of this type in the
circuit.  If the 1 in front of the 4016 means cmos, I suppose they will work
in this circuit.  A UV3 gets hot (no fans, no heat sink) and I think the
heat just got to it.  The 14016 is listed in NTE and others and I will try
to get one locally.  I will keep the list posted.  Many thanks for the help.


It is interesting to read these threads and I imagine that all of this brain
power helps keep the list members sharp; all for a common Drake cause.
Thanks again.

Incidentally there are factories in China that sell these... Had several
emails within a few hours responding back to me.   I guess they have active
mining software running all of the time.  Go figure.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell [mailto:k4...@mindspring.com] 
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2011 11:50 AM
To: Curt Nixon
Cc: Curt Nixon; David; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] uvc divider board

Curt -

OK.  Guess you have to look and see what the circuit is!  The standard CMOS
chips are CD4016, which is a Quad Analog Switch.  Motorola's version is a
MC14016, which is why the 'extra' 1 at the beginning.  I seem to recall now
that Motorola DID have a series of 4000 chips, much like the 1 series
MCL.  The TR-7 uses about a half dozen of the MC14016 (CD4016) switches.

Thanks for the clarification, ya gotta look at the diagram to be sure.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Curt Nixon wrote:
 Well..that may be true but here is the motorola datasheet for the 
 MC4016

 It is indeed a Mod N divide by counter..  My app was in a HP counter
board.

 Curt

 Garey Barrell wrote:
 Curt -

 No, it's a 4016 / 14016, same thing.  It's a quad analog switch used in
the TR-7 as well.  
 Motorola just put the '1' in front of the CMOS number.

 The 4066 / 14066 is the same thing too.  Easy to find.

 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA

 Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement 
 CDs www.k4oah.com


 Curt Nixon wrote:
 I think he's talking about a 4016P..it is a dip package divide by N 
 chip.  I think I found one for a counter I was repairing.  I'll 
 check in the morning to see.  I remember having a devil of a time
finding one.

 Curt

 Garey Barrell wrote:
 David -

 If it's a 14 pin DIP package the MC14016 is available from Mouser, 
 Digi-Key and others.  It's just a CMOS Quad Analog switch.

 Google MC14016BCP is the plastic DIP, the MC14016BCPG is the wide
temperature version.

 73, Garey - K4OAH
 Glen Allen, VA

 Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line and TR-4/C Service Supplement 
 CDs www.k4oah.com


 David wrote:

 Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete
part.  Any sources?

 David Assaf, III

 W5XU






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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: [Drakelist] All band TX for the TR-7

[David]

One way to provide additional band slots for the transmit and receive is to
find and place an Aux-7 board in the radio.  These are hard to find.  The
solution I use on the several TR-7 units I have had is to use the scheme of
Robert Morrow, WB6GTM in the July 1982, QST.  It is a diode programmable
board for any 500 KC segment.  The boards I used were made by Farr radio
(probably still available) and plug into the aux 7 slot.  Work fine and no
surgery is required..

David Assaf, III
W5XU


-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Saturday, October 08, 2011 10:12 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] All band TX for the TR-7

On Sat, 8 Oct 2011 04:34:36 -0700 (PDT), Ron wrote:

To enable the TR7 to transmit on all frequencies 1.5-30MHz simply unsolder
the collector of Q9001 on the DR7 board.  See Figures 4-1 and 4-2 in the
Service Manual.

The method I arrived at was actually an outgrowth of this mod, which I found
published on GW4ALG's web site. The Q9001 mod leaves out the 2.5 and 5.0 MHz
bands, but they can be restored by a trace cut on the digital control board.
Since the collector of Q9001 toggles a signal on the digital control board,
both mods can effectively both be done on the digital control board and the
OOL signal is preserved.

73

-Jim
 

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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[Drakelist] uvc divider board

[David]

Looking for a MC4016P for a UV3 divider board.  This is an obsolete part.
Any sources?

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

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Re: [Drakelist] Loopy noise

[david 3]

Some questions:\
When you first connected the radio to the amp, did it work?  If not, it
might be a miss match in impedance of the output of the radio to the input
to the amp. If there was a grounding issue, it would have shown up then.

If so, then check the electrolytics in the radio. 
 
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2011 4:28 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Loopy noise

I have the R4A audio going to my stereo amp and a terrible humming from the
speakers. A ground loop, do you think?

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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO - more attempts

[David]

Try touching a hot iron briefly to the ends of the donut caps.  Sometimes
these joints crystalize.

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Sunday, July 31, 2011 4:51 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO - more attempts

 

Did the braid addition and changed the zener.  No joy yet - thinking more
and more it's that capacitor - looking for local friends' junkboxes but will
probably spend a little to order one.  Lots of cheap ones on Fleabay, it
turns out.

 

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

 

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

  _  

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Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

[David]

Look at D9 off of Q3.  The zener is bad.

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Steve Wedge
Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 8:52 PM
To: Jerry Semones; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

 

Yeah, I already did that and there was evidence that a previous owner did,
too.

 

Looks like the dog-bone is next.  Gotta find a 3000 pF SM cap.  Guess I
shoulda ordered one from Mouser when I got the transistors.

 

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

 

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

- Original Message - 

From: Jerry Semones mailto:grand...@insightbb.com  

To: Steve Wedge mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net  ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 

Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 9:38 PM

Subject: Re: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

 

Steve, for what it's worth I had a very similar problem with the PTO in my
R4B sometime ago.  I reheated all of the connections on the PTO circuit
board and it cured my problem.  

 

73' Jerry K4FJK

- Original Message - 

From: Steve Wedge mailto:w1es1...@earthlink.net  

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 

Sent: Thursday, July 28, 2011 9:07 PM

Subject: [Drakelist] R-4A PTO: It wasn't the transistors (entirely)

 

Replaced both transistors - the osc with the correct 2N706A and the buffer
with a 2N3904 (the '3858's are no longer made and the ones left are
stupid-expensive).

 

Unfortunately, it's still jumping around like a five-year-old on a
sugar-buzz.  Scratch the transistors as the culprits - though the signal
quality does sound a little better.

 

Looking at the worm drive/yoke, I'm wondering:  how much slop is
acceptablebetween the worm drive and the yoke?  Mine seems to have a
significant amount.

 

I'm also tending back toward capacitors again.  that largish brown one: is
there anything special about it?  I've heard at least a couple of reports
of that being the culprit.

 

73,

 

Steve Wedge, W1ES/4

 

I can't complain, but sometimes I still do.
- Joe Walsh

 

If the above message appears, it came from Steve's Son of Laptop!

  _  

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Re: [Drakelist] spare part

[David]

Do you know if this will also fit the TR6?  Both have 9 MHz if at the filter
point.  If so, I would be interested.

 

David Assaf, III

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Frost
Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 3:50 PM
To: Drakelist group
Subject: [Drakelist] spare part

 


Hello,

 

I have a 500 hertz crystal filter, for the TR-4CW, if anyone needs it as a
spare or ???  $30.00 plus shipping.

 

Tnx  73, Bill

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Re: [Drakelist] Sherwood crystals

[David Assaf]

No

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jun 7, 2011, at 7:23 PM, Neil M Califano cchange...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Does Sherwood manufacture their own crystals?
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Inproved audio amp for R-4C

[David Assaf]

Sherwood. It is in an r4c modified many years ago. 

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jun 5, 2011, at 9:48 PM, Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com wrote:

 
 

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Re: [Drakelist] Inproved audio amp for R-4C

[David]

Yes.  Look them up.  Have had one installed for 15 + years.

David Assaf, III
W5XU

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 6:51 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Inproved audio amp for R-4C

On Sun, 5 Jun 2011 13:13:08 -0700 (PDT), Neil M Califano wrote:

Does Sherwood or anyone offer an improved audio amp for the R-4C? Does the
new amp draw more current?


Velleman offers an audio amp kit that is very close to the Sherwood design.
It's a hi-fi amp, so the circuit should be tweaked (change one or two caps)
to
limit it to communications bandwith, but it's considerably cheaper. Current
drain hasn't been a concern since the stock class A amp is disabled in the
process, but it should be done in conjuntion with the established power
supply
mods.

http://www.sherweng.com/ham.html#kits
http://www.vellemanusa.com/us/enu/product/view/?id=350529

73,

-Jim

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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18:33:00


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7: Lee Blue Filter Foils

[David Piper]

Great info.  I need source to refurbish or replace front panel on my TR7.  The 
upper section has some surface corrosion damage where paint is gone.  Thanks.

David Piper
AG8Z
  - Original Message - 
  From: Tom Evans, AG9X 
  To: Karl du Roi 
  Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2011 9:47 AM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7: Lee Blue Filter Foils


  Try here:
  http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/TechTips/Drake-Tech-Exchange-17.pdf




  On Sat, Apr 16, 2011 at 4:59 AM, Karl du Roi dk...@radome.de wrote:

Good morning,

I am going to swap outaged blue filter foils at my TR7 and RV7 as well. I
found that foils from LEE could be a good solution. I am uncertain if just
blue #079, dark blue #119 or medium blue #132 - or any other - would fit 
best.
See the following link for details:

http://www.zilz.de/grosse-rollen-bereich-blau-c-291_1663_1693.html

Has someone experienced what exact colour should be used?

73 de Karl, DK7AL

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Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

[T. David Cohen]

The Weller guns work fine for can type electrolytic's - once you figure out
how to do it, it's easy!  I've changed lots and lots.  Instead of using
Weller tips, I use 10 ga. Copper wire.  It works fine too and it way cheap.

 

Dave, N7TC

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Mark Nace
Sent: Monday, March 28, 2011 5:43 PM
To: Loren McCullough; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

 

My Weller D-550 (240/325 Watt) was easy to find new tips for.  It's a
powerful gun that does big jobs well, especially PL-259's.  I keep it tinned
up, and this tip has lasted for about 5 years.  

Mark

N5KAE

 

From: Loren McCullough loren...@verizon.net
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Mon, March 28, 2011 4:29:44 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Weller 100/140 vs heat

That's the problem I've always had with the design of the Weller gun, the
contacts for the tips get corroded.  I used to have a Wen 100/200 watt
pencil gun that had a different design and never had to reestablish the
contacts.  And it could be used for more precision work.  Used it till it
broke and I couldn't find replacements anymore.  Really miss that gun.

Loren - WA3WZR

On 3/28/2011 9:30 AM, gypsym...@aol.com wrote: 

 

Weller 100/140 gun 

Insufficient heat.  I have found that about once a year I have to back off
on the nuts that hold the soldering tip in place and re snug them down.
Probably gets oxidized ?  In any case and this may be in particular to my
guns ( I have two of those ) If I can't hear the buzz I know its not going
to get hot enough.

The same thing applied to my larger Weller 200/260

73's Carl  wd8nhk

 
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[Drakelist] - WTB L-7, MN-2700

[David Piper]

Looking for a nice L-7 and MN-2700 to match my TR7.___
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Re: [Drakelist] Roofing filter

[David]

After the first IF
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 7:18 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Roofing filter
 
Where in a schematic would a roofing filter be located?


 

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Re: [Drakelist] Roofing filter

[David]

After the first IF
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 7:18 PM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Roofing filter
 
Where in a schematic would a roofing filter be located?


 

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Re: [Drakelist] Roofing filter in R-4A

[David]

After the first IF.  The job of the roofing filter is to narrow the
bandwidth entering into the rest of the radio.  You can put in the rf stage
or before the mixer because it would have to be so wide!
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Neil M Califano
Sent: Sunday, February 20, 2011 2:48 AM
To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] Roofing filter in R-4A
 
Where in the schematic would you find a roofing filter? After the first
mixer, for example?


 

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Re: [Drakelist] SPR-4 medium wave antenna?

[David]

Note that a resonant full wave loop is inherently quieter than verticals and
dipoles.  If you have the room, it is your best bet.
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Jim Shorney
Sent: Saturday, February 12, 2011 7:33 PM
To: Drake List
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] SPR-4 medium wave antenna?
 
On Sat, 12 Feb 2011 21:56:12 +0200, geoffrey mendelson wrote:

So I need to locate antenna outside the noise, which means I need to 
use about 10 meters of coax. Due to availability and price, I've 
decided to use RG-6 coax. I can run an antenna at about 6 feet above 
ground level (in a valley) and a maxiumum of 11 meters long.

A favorite of SWLs is the PA0RDT mini-whip. An active capacitive probe
type
antenna, small and relatively easy to build, and can be mounted just about
anywhere that's away from your noise with a coax run to the shack. No kits
available, but Google will show you the construction articles.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A,
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and
he will learn for a lifetime.

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



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Re: [Drakelist] DSP Filters

[David]

The add on DSP units are audio DSP filters and they can be very effective.
The OMNI VI+ has a very effective one.  They can be used with or without the
roofing filter in the first IF.  As there are various needs for cw and for
SSB, the roofing filter will also change.  So, for ssb, a 3KC filter would
be good, the 600 cycle or lower for cw would be applicable.  
All the roofing filter does is to limit the necessarily wide bandwidth of
the front end from abusing the first IF and later stages.  When this
happens, IMD occurs and other strange generated noises are present that
travel thru the set.  Stopping the mess at the first IF allows the rest of
the radio to perform efficiently and cleanly.  The noise filter on the
audio, only helps when some crud does slip into the roofing filter passband.
 
Sherwood sells a switch kit that varies the AGC and has a concentric switch
that can select one or more of the roofing filters.  You do not have to
elect to have a cw or ssb filter only; with the switch you can have what you
wish, even both.  So, if you want optimal, get the roofing filter for the
mode or modes that you want and if necessary (generally only occasionally)
get the audio DSP.  Note that in most models, the roofing filter can be
switched with an unused lug on the filter switch.  You will need to look/see
if you have this.
 
Good luck.
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Hunter Ellington
Sent: Saturday, February 05, 2011 5:29 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] DSP Filters
 
My experience is just the opposite.  I use a Timewave S9+ with both my R7
and R4C.  The Time waves work splendidly with my Drakes, and reduce noise to
the point that these old receivers compare favorably with the modern rice
boxes..
 
K0GFY  R. Hunter Ellington
303-454-0543/720-560-8139
P.O. Box 44
Larkspur, CO 80118

Sent From My iphone.
 
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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB problem

[David]

Had the same thing.  It was the filter cap in the AC4 serving the Lower
voltage supply.
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of LOU GIOVANETTI
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2010 12:51 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T-4XB problem
 
I was on the air on CW with my T-4XB when all of a sudden The
transmitted signal started to sound rough? Any idea what the problem
could be?

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Re: [Drakelist] OT Help on RF interference (New QTH)

[David]

Some items to check.  The DF'ing would be a first.  It would at least give a
more localized direction to look see what the issue.
 
Electronic dimmers:  old style dimmers used SCR's in the dimming circuit.
Try turning on/off lights and switched receptacles.
 
TV and sound electronics:  Many of these use switching supplies; try the
turn on/off to see if the noise goes away.  Actually to limit the issue to
in or out of your home, turn things off with the breakers and see if this
makes the noise go away.
 
Try it on another receiver.
 
At times the power company is the culprit.  If you have electric heat, the
sequencers in the heater can chatter causing an issue.  The power company
likely feeds your house either overhead or underground. the transformer has
bushings that if damaged or loose will create a lot of noise.  If it is
local, can you smell any ozone?  Had one of these.  Found it when it was
foggy and the top of the pole transformer feeding my home was glowing.  Took
a pix of it as the power company did not want to believe me.  Was a cracked
HV bushing. 
 
Good Luck !
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of kc9...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, December 21, 2010 7:36 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] OT Help on RF interference (New QTH)
 
Darn new QTH...I am finding a BIG problem, here.
I have a pulsing RF noise about every 40-50 KC. If it were audio I
would describe it as the sound of an old pump,  (maybe 10 times a
second) or something. It does top and go...tonight about every 10-15
minutes or so...ot exactly though. It's winter here.


The signal is about 20 KC wide and repeats ever 50 KC.
starts at 80 mtrs goes all the way to 10.

Any ideas, or is there a better list to go to for help on this.
Yes, I have turned off evey breaker in my house in sequence...it ain't
here.

Closest neighbor is about 250 ft.
I'm at a small lake out in the country with maybe 180 houses around
it...only 30% here this time of year.

73,
Lee




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[Drakelist] 2B Oscillator

[T. David Cohen]

Hi Folks,

 

I'm getting closer to getting my 2B back up and running.  I'm having some
significant issues with the first conversion oscillator - V1 though.  It
doesn't like the 11 MHz crystal that came with the receiver and it doesn't
like a 14 MHz crystal that I got for WWV.   I've tried multiple tube
substitutions - 6U8A's and 6EA8's and I've checked voltages and resistances
without any luck.  Several other crystals of various frequencies seem to be
OK.   I've seen several references to the problem in the archives of this
list but actually not much info.  Is there any circuit change or
modification that'll overcome this problem or am I overlooking something
obvious?

 

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

Dave Cohen, N7TC

 

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[Drakelist] Q Multiplier

[T. David Cohen]

I'm bringing back a recently acquired 2B and Q multiplier.  The first of
many questions - about how long should the shielded lead between the 2BQ and
the receiver be (and what sort of coax?)?A previous owner did some
'work' on it.

 

Thanks!

 

Dave Cohen, N7TC

 

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Re: [Drakelist] T4-X Zener Diode D6

[David]

Yes.  Be careful not to wildly disturb the physical placement of the other
components.  Good luck!
 
David Assaf, III
W5XU
 
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Edward Swynar
Sent: Sunday, November 07, 2010 6:56 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] T4-X Zener Diode D6
 
Hi Guys,
 
A quick question before I start dis-assembling my T-4X here to replace zener
diode D6 (a 1N714, at Q1 VFO buffer)...
 
Is this rascal inside the VFO can...?
 
When I had this shield removed a week ago to clean the guide shafts  add a
ground strap (to address my frequency warble issue), I guess I was so
distracted about safely removing the doggone thing that I failed to notice
any transistors or diodes hidden therein...in fact, I recall seeing only a
couple of discreet components on the small circuit board, i.e. fixed
capacitors...
 
The schematic in the T4-X manual shows the diode to be ensconced within a
T1, along with the VFO  buffer transistors---yet the physical VFO can is
marked T5...I can see no T1 identified in any of the photographic views,
and most of the components in the underview photo of the rig in the manual
do NOT identify a whole heckuva lot of the parts (I guess I got spoiled by
years of looking at Heathkit manuals!).
 
Any clues as to the location of D6 before I start dis-assembling things...?
 
Many thanks in advance,  my vy
 
~73~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ
 
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake T4-X Frequency Wobble

[David Assaf]

While the mechanical issues are certainly a possibility you might want  
to try An experiment.  If the radio cuts up when it is cold it may be  
the Zener diode in the vfo. If this is bad even cold the radio will  
jump frequency.

Try the mechanical
Fixes including the grounding strap. If that does not work suggest  
replace the Zener

Good luck

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Oct 26, 2010, at 6:46 AM, Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net wrote:


Hi Eddy:

That brass end sticking out the back of the VFO can is the shaft  
that the permeability cores are mounted on.


You can carefully remove the can from the back by squeezing the  
spring latches on the front of the can.


The back end of the shaft simply rides along on the phenolic end of  
the coil form.  Generally, this is smooth but if you move it by  
hand, the frequency changes..its pretty sensitive.  It is possible  
that there is some dirt or gunk there that might make it move  
slightly with temp changes and you might carefully brush the shaft  
and giude with an artists brush and some isopropyl 99% alcohol.


If the cover is off, you can also inspect to insure that the glue  
that holds the end pc in place, is not loose.  Also the glue on the  
coils.  A bit of nitrocellulose glue...airplane cement, can be use  
there and be exactly equal to original.  I use Ambroid  
brand..amber wood model glue.  It is generally behind the counter at  
hobby stores.


Also, the grounding of the traveller bar that runs in and out on the  
screww shaft can become intermittant with dirt and lubricant.  A  
common modification is to use a strip of desoldering braid to make a  
flexible grounding strap between the frame and the moving slider  
that runs on the vfo screw.


I'll see if I can find some pictures of all this if you need them.

Be very delicate on removal of the cover.  Anything in there that  
gets damaged or moved will be a problem.  But it isn't rocket  
science either.  I think the simplicity of the design is why they  
keep running so well 40+ years after manufacture.


Cheers,

Curt
KU8L



Edward Swynar wrote:

*/Hi Guys,/*
At Garey's suggestion, I've started to monitor the on-the-air CW  
signal of my T4-X directly on my R-4 receiver---I also just  
recently retired my electronic keyer, in favour of my /Vibroplex/  
Presentation bug...
Now, I don't know if it's due somehow to all my rockin'  rollin'  
with the bug next to the T-4X, or what, but all of a sudden I've  
noticed that periodically, and for no apparent reason, the / 
quality/ of the monitored frequency of the T-4X will get /jumpy/,  
or /shift/ ever-so-slightly, during transmit...in worst cases, it  
will actually sound garbelled  /wobbly/, almost like that of a  
participant in the annual /AWA 1929 QSO Party!/
I've rotated all of the switches on the transmitter, removed the  
tubes  replaced them, cleaned the switches, cleaned the tube pins,  
with no noticeable  direct cause-and-effect. Last night, in  
desperation, I tried my tried-and-true /pencil tap/ trick when  
trouble-shooting intermittents like this: with the top cover  
removed, I tapped every tube, compartment,  protrudance atop the  
T4-X chassis with the eraser end of a pencil, hoping to generate  
the symptoms of the intermittent...
I came up blank, /UNTIL/ the pencil tapped the VFO shielded  
enclosure: I could emulate/generate the /very same symptoms/ as  
before, just by gently rapping the VFO can. I next placed my  
finger on the yellow-coloured device that ever-so-slightly  
protrudes out the rear hole in the enclosure, and by applying the  
lightest of pressure, I could change the frequency of the transmit  
signal by the same margins as when the condition first reared its  
ugly head.
This hardly seems conducive to operation under trying conditions, I  
said to myself!
It dawned upon me that maybe if this yellow-coloured device might  
somehow be physically stabilized, the issue might disappear. I'm  
thinking of a simple strip of masking tape applied over the hole of  
the VFO enclosure, contacting both it and the protruding device.  
I'd like to examine the VFO in my R-4, first, however (it has no  
such instability issues whatsoever).
Has anyone ever encountered such a condition before...? And just  
what exactly is /inside/ that VFO shielded enclosure, anyway...? Do  
I dare to remove it, or will my doing so unleash a whole new / 
Pandora's Box/ of woes  misfortunes upon yours truly...?!

Many thanks in advance for any  all insight in this regard...
*/~73!~ de Eddy VE3CUI - VE3XZ/*
*//*   
--- 
-


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[Drakelist] FS: Drake TV-1000 1kW Low Pass Filter

[David Goncalves]

Perfect condition, no blown caps, rust, and just the lightest of copper
spotting.

$10 plus shipping.

-- 
David Goncalves
W1EUJ
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Re: [Drakelist] 6JB6 Question

[David Assaf]

Please also remember thses tubes were designed for the horizontal  
output on TV s.  This is a constant and severe service. With loading  
care they will last a very long time.  I have a set in some 1964 t4xb  
units that are original and still function well on 10 meters.
The advice about using tubes of the same manufacturer is sound as once  
the setup was perfected the tubes we very close to each other.


Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Sep 27, 2010, at 10:23 PM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com  
wrote:


The 'real' catch is that these tubes were originally designed to  
work at ~16 kHz, NOT 30 MHz.  So depending upon internal structure,  
a tube that works at 15 kHz may not work at all at 30 MHz.  The  
inter-element capacitances are balanced out by the neutralization  
circuit, and these may differ considerably depending upon who made  
the tube.  These capacitances have little or no effect at 15 kHz,  
but ...


A plain emission tester will tell you if the tube is 'dead' at DC,  
but all that means is that there is still some coating on the  
cathode and that none of the major elements are shorted.  I don't  
know enough about tube science to explain WHY, but in this service  
these tubes lose gain at the highest frequencies first, and progress  
downwards.  A tube can produce 85W on 80M and 0W on 10M.  But they  
weaken from the 'top down'.


The best thing you can do to prolong tube life is to put a small fan  
either on top of, or on the back of, the PA cage, blowing UP or  
OUT.  It doesn't have to move much air to make a major difference in  
reducing the heat in the cage.  A small computer fan that runs  
silently is fine.  Good PA tubes will run for literally years as  
long as you don't take 10 minutes to tune them up because you have  
the wrong antenna selected.  I was able to get over two years in  
full power RTTY service back in the 60's.  Typical SSB or CW should  
last 5 - 10 years.  The PA tubes in my 'daily driver' T-4XB are over  
10 years old.


Drake matched final tubes by selecting according to cathode current  
vs bias voltage at idle.  They can be matched in the transmitter by  
installing ONE tube, and setting the Bias voltage for 35 mA of  
cathode current.  Then replace that tube with successive tubes,  
without adjusting Bias, and note the current drawn by each tube.   
Pairs are two tubes that are closest to each other in current  
drawn.   If most of the tubes tried draw 40 mA in this situation,  
install one of those, reset bias to 35 mA and try again.


Obviously the meter in the T-4X(any) isn't all that accurate, (it  
DID cost around a dollar new!,) so it's best to measure the voltage  
drop across the 15 ohm resistor for the socket being used.  Measure  
the actual resistance and then measure the voltage across it for 35  
mA.


From a practical standpoint, two new tubes from the same  
manufacturer are probably close enough.  A reasonable target is to  
find a pair that are within 5% of each other at idle current.


Matching IS important, because these tubes are being run VERY hard.   
IF one tube is only carrying 90% of the load, the other is doing the  
110%, adding insult to injury.  And third-order distortion products  
go up rapidly!


Best brands seem to be Sylvania, Zenith, RCA and GE, in that order.   
Other brands may or may not neutralize properly, depending upon who  
actually built them.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


Curt wrote:
Experience with finals on my T-4XB prompts some questions.  Can a  
simple emissions tester be used in any way to estimate 6JB6  
performance in circuit? Can that tester be used to match 6JB6  
tubes?  Evidently these transmitters were pretty picky about what  
PA tubes they would tolerate, with differences between  
manufacturers being an issue.


Another thing I'm wondering is whether most of the 6JB6 tubes for  
sale these days are used and maybe already worn out.  One pair I  
bought off the web were pretty useless in my T-4X.  Any source of  
known-good 6JB6s?


Changing out the finals and then neutralizing them is a pain in the  
rear I'd like to do rarely, would like to somehow know that the  
replacements are better than the soft tubes being replaced.


73, Curt KB5JO

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Re: [Drakelist] Apologies

[david 3]

KNEW IT WOULD BE.  HAD THE SAME PROBLEM YEARS AGO.  GLAD IT IS OVER FOR YOU!

 

David

W5XU

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of pony...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 20, 2010 8:22 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Apologies

 

 Hi Gang,

 

  I feel a bit remiss as I haven't commented about my unstable PTO in my
R4C. I no longer own it, as the fellow that was instrumental in getting it
for me swapped his unmodified R4C for mine. I was not comfortable with the
idea of dismantling all those parts to remove the PTO.

 

  Indeed, I am very grateful for all those replies. I could be mistaken, but
I think the fellow that suggested the problem could be that pesky 10 volt
zenner diode was correct.

 

   Again, Thanks a bunch for all the ideas Tom, WD8JPP 

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Re: [Drakelist] unstable R4C PTO

[David Assaf]

If you are not turning the dial and it jumps then it is not likely a  
mechanical issue.  As stated before the vfo oscillator is quite  
voltage sensitive. My bet is the Zener as I have written earlier.  
Solid state devices were not consistently uniform as they are now and  
with use can get into an unstable part of the curve and exhibit an  
inconsistent impeadence and hen e the jump.


Suggest you change the Zener

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Aug 24, 2010, at 10:22 AM, steve white sswh...@mchsi.com wrote:


Dennis



I had this problem once in a old HQ170 and it turned out to be the C  
in the vfo LC circuit.  It was a nice looking mica capacitor and I  
didn’t think at first that it could be the problem but after all the 
 other things I changed once I replaced it all was right with the wo 
rld again.




Steve NU0P



From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist- 
boun...@zerobeat.net] On Behalf Of Dennis Monticelli

Sent: Monday, August 23, 2010 23:59
To: pony...@aol.com
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] unstable R4C PTO



Zener diodes can develop an instability in their voltage knee  
value due to migration of mobile charge at the surface of the  
semiconductor.  A random walk of a few tens or hundreds of mV could  
produce your frequency problem.  Put a scope probe on the zener and  
set your scrope for high sensitivity.  See if you observe a jumpy  
voltage.




Dennis AE6C

On Mon, Aug 23, 2010 at 6:37 PM, pony...@aol.com wrote:

  Hi Gang,



  Thanks for all the replies to my past message, but at this point  
in time, I'm even more dumbfounded than ever. So far I have cleaned,  
and oiled the mechanical parts, installed a ground strap on the PTO,  
resoldered all the ground wires inside. everything is free, and  
working as it should. Also, I drilled another hole in the cover to  
stretch that angled spring giving more tension.




  No avail, now I think it must be an electronic problem, as  
sometimes, when I try to tune a station, it warbles, sometimes while  
I am just listening hands off. vibration doesn't seem to change  
anything.


  Someone emailed me suggesting the zenner diode could be the  
culprit. I always thought most solid state devices either work, or  
don't work. Is it possible that's the problem, or could it be  
somewhere else outside the PTO?




   Thanks for reading thisTom, WD8JPP


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Re: [Drakelist] R4C unstable VFO

[David Assaf]

Sorry. Zener diode in the vfo

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Aug 20, 2010, at 12:28 PM, David Assaf w...@cox.net wrote:


Change the 3zener diade in the CFO

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Aug 19, 2010, at 4:19 PM, pony...@aol.com wrote:


   Hi People,

  I've got an R4C that is jumping frequency by +- 1 Khz, then  
slowly returns to the correct frequency only to repeat again, and  
again.
  I have installed the ground strap mod, and exchanged several  
tubes, cleaned the switching, and checked all the RCA jacks on the  
rear panel. At this time I don't know where else to go. Has anyone  
had/ corrected this problem? Any help, or suggestions would be  
greatly appreciated.



  Tom
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Re: [Drakelist] R4C static after Sherwood 3d mixer mod

[David Assaf]

Same thing on the filter selector switch. Not using the radio will  
usually have a switch issue. A bit od deoxit will resolve thAt issue.
Good luck.  The third mixer did adequately address the third mixer  
prob. Drake had 3 or 4 designs and Sherwood. Solved it all.


A clean and functioning Sherwood receiver is a wonder. Still use mine

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jul 31, 2010, at 9:48 AM, Robert Ladden rmlad...@yahoo.com wrote:

I had this problem when a crystal filter on the back was not making  
a good connection with one of the pins. Wiggle each filter. The  
static crashes would occur out of nowhere and last a few seconds.  
Took me weeks to find it.


73,
Bob WW3QB



--- On Sat, 7/31/10, K4GM- George k...@verizon.net wrote:


From: K4GM- George k...@verizon.net
Subject: [Drakelist] R4C static after Sherwood 3d mixer mod
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Date: Saturday, July 31, 2010, 8:06 AM
I have obtained an R4C with many of
the Sherwood mods installed including the solid state 3d
mixer which is supposed to eliminate the dreaded frying
crackle.   Unfortunately occasionally I hear
a bit of static sounding to me like what a brief solar flare
might sound. It is not really a hiss but more like a strong
static crash.  It is definitely not simply QRN!
It is infrequent and I can still copy over it.  Before
I open it up and start reviewing the wiring on the mixer
mod, has anyone else had experience with this type of
problem?  Is there a known culprit such as one of the
tubes going bad??  Any and all suggestions appreciated.

George K4GM

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Re: [Drakelist] Line C - Frequency counter problem

[David Assaf]

You might consider the cables connecting the counter. Smaller cables  
add lots of capacitance ans as such adds load. I have used the  
torrestronics unit and another on both the b and c line twins with no  
issues using 58 size coax.  Good luck.  The read out is certainly a  
great addition


Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On May 10, 2010, at 3:32 PM, Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net wrote:

Yes...I wasn't very clear on the amp at the Rx approac.  It would  
still be on the counter leg of the Y.  really an L...so the INJ  
path is still same as original between R and T but the extra cable  
capacity going to the counter is reduced by the 12 to 16 inches of  
cable I have now up to the RO box on the top of the Rx.


Its one of those things on my to-do list:  characterize the whole  
system to try to find a definitive problem and solution...but so  
many other things to do !!;)


Yes the sensitivity of the RO is not that great as I recall the  
signal just goes to an input pin of an 74HC4046 then to the PIC.


Another thing I wanted to try on the barefoot counter was to reduce  
the input blocking caps from .1MFd down to a few pico's.  the input  
is a series .1, a series 100 Ohm , then another .1M in series.. then  
the parallel clipping diodes to ground right after the Res.  Seems  
like the input capacity can be reduced a lot by making the blocking  
caps smaller.  Couldn't be a lot worse I think.



Garey Barrell wrote:
Sometimes it works, but mostly not, lately.  I used to just reply  
to the list, but now I reply to all so at least the person I'm  
addressing the reply to gets it.  Actually they get it twice if the  
list happens to work!  :-)


You can't put the amp at the junction of the Y because of the DC  
control voltage.  Unless your FET amp passes DC both ways through it!


The problem is most likely the sensitivity of the counter dropping  
off with higher frequency, plus the effect of the cable parallel  
capacitive loading.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com



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Re: [Drakelist] VOX Relay Cable connector for AC-4

[David Assaf]

In the old days of tv sets that had removeable backs supply houses  
would sell a cheater cord that would go between the back that is  
removed and the set itself. This extension was an exact fit for the  
receptacle on the power supply.you can also bring out the two wires  
thru the chassis ans go from there. Note that some early ac 3 units  
did not have this connector.

Good lick

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jan 22, 2010, at 12:15 PM, Paul Gerhardt phgerha...@gmail.com  
wrote:


Anybody have a part #/source for a VOX connector for the AC-4?  What  
else can you use to make a relay cable?  Going to try the 'B' line  
on one of my amps.



Some Drake restore pix on blogspot

--
Paul Gerhardt
K3PG
http://pgerhardt.blogspot.com
QRP ARCI 6674
FP 274
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Re: [Drakelist] 34PNB?

[David Goncalves]

noise blankers that are 'plug-in' for collins are made by Wynn Works.
Perhaps they can be modified for the Drake.

David Goncalves
W1EUJ

On Sat, Jan 23, 2010 at 11:33 AM, Curt Nixon cptc...@flash.net wrote:

 Is there a source for boards / cloning info for the 34PNB Noise Blanker for
 the TR4?

 If not, is there any interest in having boards made up?

 Curt
 KU8L

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Re: [Drakelist] T-4XB strange ma value

[David Assaf]

Bias. Could always effect plate current. What it sounds like is tuning  
to some harmonic that will find a strNge resonance and draw current.  
As this is likely A frequency outside the bands and likely harmfucl it  
is good to reduce the gain quickly. The book has some good guidelines  
on the rough position of the controls that will prevent this   In my  
experience a power supply capacitor is not generally an intermittent  
issue, it is either bad or good. If wou have a lot of miles on the  
power supply it would be good insurrance to clean it up anyway.


Good luck.

Sent from my iPhone
David Assaf, III

On Jan 25, 2010, at 9:22 AM, Garey Barrell k4...@mindspring.com wrote:


Frank -

Interesting!

One thing, tuning the RF TUNE to the middle of the 80M band   
_segment_  is probably tuning to the IF of 5.645 MHz.


I certainly suspect Bias supply troubles.  Is the FInal idle setting  
ok at 70 mA?  Possibly intermittent loss of Bias which could  
partially key the transmitter.


I would strongly suggest replacing the Bias supply filter caps at a  
minimum.  The chances of catastrophic failure with considerable  
damage are just too great to ignore.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 4-B, C-Line  TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
www.k4oah.com


iz oos wrote:

Hi Folks,

Premise: my AC-4 has still all the original caps, included the bias
ones which I should decide to change.

Weeks ago, I had experienced something very strange with my T-4XB. It
tunes correctly, but, at a particular point of the RF-TUNE in the
middle of the 80 meters band, it absorbed 320mA notwithstanding the
rig was going to be tuned on completely others band such as the
20meters band with the GAIN control set to minimum!!! This scared me.
It happened twice, albeit I was very quick to move the RF tune knob  
so

I saw the 320mA just for less than a second or so. It seems that no
apparent damage occurred, as I tuned the rig on the band correctly.
But after that day then I haven't turned the rig on again.

Could it be due to the bias caps or to something else?

73,

Frank IZ2OOOS




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Re: [Drakelist] TR4 and SB-200 Question

[David Home]

 

Opps:  mis read.  The previous remarks are valid to the t4 series.  The tr4
will have to have essentially a resistive network to absorb power to fee the
200 with less than 100 watts. Simply doing so with the gain control will not
do fully.  I believe that Drake states this in the manual.

 

Sorry for the mis direction.  Concentrate on the antenna and you will not be
disappointed.  

 

From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Kevin Elliott
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 11:25 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR4 and SB-200 Question

 

I have just recently purchased an extremely nice SB-200 with all of the
Harbach mods installed, my question is this.  With all of the mods installed
which are mainly aimed at allowing the SB-200 to play better with today
solid-state rigs, do these mods, in particular the Soft-Key mod now prohibit
me from using my Drake TR-4 with the amplifier?  I do realize one of my
major concerns it to not overdrive the amp with the TR-4. After reading the
suggestion which was posted a week or so back I think I may use the
T-connector and a 100-watt dummy load setup to help solve the over driving
problem.  I am wondering if I should just use the ALC line and perhaps a
foot switch on the amp.  Any suggestions or feedback is appreciated.

 

73,

 

Kevin - KG0MN

 





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Re: [Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel

[David Austin]

Hi Jim,

For removing sticky labels I have always used the spray-on lubricant
WD-40. I have never experienced paint damage with this product. Just
wash surface after use carefully with soap and warm water and dry
thoroughly afterwards. They do actually mention on their UK website
that it can be used for this purpose. For complete safety maybe test 
on old panel first?
http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1519

73

David
G4GTP


- Original Message - 
From: Jim DiMauro radio6...@yahoo.com
To: Drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, August 23, 2009 12:04 AM
Subject: [Drakelist] Need Help With L7 NOS Front Panel


 Hi All:

 I have a NOS front panel for my L7 amplifier. It still has the
 original protective plastic covering on it that has become brittle
 over the years and is stuck fast to the panel. I tried to scrape it
 off with my fingernail and still it doesn't want to come off. If I
 try to use something stronger to scrape off the plastic I'm afraid 
 I'll
 damage the paint. Do any of you know of a solvent or some other way
 to remove the covering that wouldn't damage the paint or lettering?
 Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 73,
 Jim
 W2BVM





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[Drakelist] 2A Passband Filter Problem.

[David Goncalves]

Hello,

I have a 2A that I was unable to get the passband tuner setup so
that the pitch of the noise was equal on both sides of the center.
I setup a sweep generator, 0.1v pk-pk, sweeping from 40 - 60 KHz, in on pin
5 of V4.
I setup an oscilloscope on pin 1 of V5. A marker output on the sweep
generator is used as a trigger.
Doing this, I can clearly see a narrow passband that is shifted around by
the
twist of the knob. On the 4.8 KHz position, the passband is greatly widened,

as expected.
Now, back to the narrow mode. There is notch on that
passband, and the sides are not symetrical. One side had a slow
rolloff, while the other had a far faster one. That explains the
greater amount of high frequency hissing in one sideband.
I removed and opened the tuner. Four slugs are ganged together and mounted
on a
spring mechanism. Each slug is mounted on a wire, which is
soldered to the brass plate that moves them all together. First thing I
thought was some small drift in the inductance or
parallel capacitance, I unsoldered the slugs and adjusted while sweeping. No
improvement could be made in narrow setting.

Then I thought that the coupling caps might be off. I unsoldered them, and
tested on a precision RLC meter.
They are all within 0.2pF of the expected value. The 0.015 caps are OK, as
is the 150 ohm resistor.

Next place to look is the

Questions:

a.  Drake 2A owners - do you get the same audio response on both sides of
center? Am I expecting too much from it? With something this clever it
SHOULD work better.

b. Have I been testing the filter correctly? The output LOOKS high
impedance, so I have not loaded it except with the high impediance input of
my scope. Should I, perhaps, adjust each section for resonance at 50 kHz
then lightly tweak for passband shape?

c. Perhaps somebody out there has a scrap 2A from which I could buy the
passband tuner, in case I ruin this one?


Comments?

-- 
David Goncalves
W1EUJ

-- 
David Goncalves
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue

[David Chris Drake]

Thanks Jim,
VERY helpful.  Looks like I'm not the only one who's had this S-meter issue. 
I'll pull the board tonight or tomorrow and do some inspection.


Anyone on the list who has a TR-7 and does his own maintenance, should print 
out a copy of this for their Drake Book.


73's
David

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net; David  Chris Drake dra...@psci.net
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 11:30 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue



On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 17:44:59 -0500, David  Chris Drake wrote:


Anyway, I'm gonna study up on the 2nd if-audio board and see if I can 
figure

out anything.



Here it is:

http://radiojim.exofire.net/pages/TR7_2IFA.html

I hope this is helpful to you.

73

-Jim


--
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TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


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[Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue

[David Chris Drake]

Hi, maybe someone on the list can help me troubleshoot this.  My TR-7 is now 
working VG+ with with one exception. the S meter reads way high on receive. 
 Wattmeter portion is correctly set per manual, and all other receive 
alignments are spot on per the manual.

I've gone over the S-meter setup 3 times, and same result.  An S-9 signal is 30 
over, calibrate is about the same, 30 over.  I've tried a separate signal 
generator at 50mv and its 30+ over (elecraft oscillator).  Same 50mv signal gen 
used to check TR4C and its S-8, and TTec Omni VI is same.

Any ideas as to where I should look first?  Or, are any other alignment 
settings critical enough as to indirectly cause this problem? 

Thanks,
David
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue

[David Chris Drake]

Thanks Jim,
Yes, I've miss typed.  Sorry if I confused anyone.  Those of you that have 
one of those little handy elecraft generators I'm sure understood.  Output 
is either 1uV or 50uVthere I typed it right!
Anyway, I'm gonna study up on the 2nd if-audio board and see if I can figure 
out anything.

Later,
David


- Original Message - 
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2009 5:11 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 S meter issue



On Thu, 19 Feb 2009 10:45:37 -0500, David  Chris Drake wrote:

I've gone over the S-meter setup 3 times, and same result.  An S-9 signal 
is 30 over, calibrate is about the same, 30 over.  I've tried a separate 
signal generator at 50mv and its 30+ over (elecraft oscillator).  Same 
50mv signal gen used to check TR4C and its S-8, and TTec Omni VI is same.



I really hope you mean 50 uV, rather than 50 mV. The holy grail seems
to be 50 uV for S-9 these days, although I have seen some radios over
the years that were spec'd at 100 uV. The results I ended up with
seemed to be a combination of circuit changes to the 2nd IF/Audio board
and the adjustment method used. I've got my notes partly cleaned up,
I'll see if I can finish it up this evening and get it up on the web. I
got closer to 50 uV for S-9 than I could when I started...

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Power Supply Question

[David Drake]

Hi, 
I use an Astron RS35 with my tr7 and have none of the problems you spoke of.  I 
get no dimming at all during key down or otherwise.
The Tr7 does require more current than most all of the Japanese radios.  It 
could be your Astron has a problem you would otherwise not be aware of except 
with the tr7.
Good Luck
David
  - Original Message - 
  From: James Cobb 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 12:24 PM
  Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Power Supply Question


Gents,

I'm trying to decide what I should do for a power supply for my 
TR-7.  I'll try to give the Reader's Digest version, but I have a slight 
complication.  My main power supply is an Astron RS-35M, but my TR-7 (S/N 46xx) 
generates some transmitted audio feedback in the receive audio when used with 
the RS-35M.  I've used 3 other HF radios on the Astron and none of them have 
glitched and a full alignment on the TR-7 didn't cure the problem either.  A 
few weeks ago, I tried running the high-current power lead off the Astron and 
the low-current lead from an MFJ-4125 switcher and the transmitted audio 
feedback totally disappeared.  When using only the Astron, I was also getting 
some dimming of the panel lights which does not happen with the other radios.  
My guess is that my Astron has a slight issue.  The MFJ-4125 doesn't provide 
enough current to run the whole radio which brings me to needing to do 
something about the power supply setup.  (Note:  G4ALG had posted some notes on 
a similar problem that got me to looking at this issue and his notes led me to 
run separate power lines for the high-current and low-current connections that 
fixed his problem and my problem.)

So, for long-term use, I've been considering either getting a PS-7 or 
getting a dedicated high-current supply.  I noticed yesterday that W4LGH is 
using a Jetstream 45A switcher to run his TR-7 (and whole shack, for that 
matter).  I've heard that the PS-7 is built like a tank, but I'm wondering if 
it would be wiser in the long run to buy something like the 45A switcher that I 
could use for many purposes instead of getting a PS-7 that is dedicated to the 
TR-7.  

So, I'm looking for inputs here.  I seem to be split 50-50.  Sometimes, 
I think I should just get a PS-7 and be done with it.  Other times, I think a 
new high-current unit would be fine and give me other options down the road.  
What say you?

Thanks and 73,

Dave / K8JDC 



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Re: [Drakelist] Heil HM-10 Microphone.

[David Chris Drake]

Hello PSG, 
Correct regarding the impedance.  Heil does offer, or used to, an impedance 
matching transformer to allow the Heil elements to be used on Drake/Collins 
rigs.  They even sell a special cable for Drake-Collins.  However, they do not 
work well.  I have an HM10 and it barely has enough gain to use with my more 
modern SS TT Omni VI.   So, when you use the transformer, to up the impedance, 
1) it still isn't high enough to match up to the Drake tube rigs, and 2) not 
enough gain or output to run the rig properly.  I suggest you sell the Heil, 
and look for a good Shure 444(d), D-104, Drake/Astatic 7075/7077, EV 664 or 
other good vintage high impedance microphone.  The only other choice is to buy 
one of those microphone preamps like the W2IHY unit.  It has a preamp and 
matching feature, I believe.  Heil mics are good mics, but short on gain.  
Also, they work ok with an outboard or inboard microphone processor, used to up 
the gain.
73's
David 
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
  From: John Stringer 
  To: Philip Grocki ; Drakelist 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 8:59 AM
  Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Heil HM-10 Microphone.


  The HC4 and HC5 elements in the HM10 are low impedance wheras the Drake 
microphone inputs are high impedance.
  Heil does make a microphone for Drake and Collins vintage radios. It has a 
built in impedance changing transformer. It is known as the GMV.
  John  GI3KDR
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]on Behalf Of Philip Grocki
Sent: 11 February 2009 05:13
To: Drakelist
Subject: [Drakelist] Heil HM-10 Microphone.


Has any of the group ever have any compatibility problems with a Heil HM-10 
microphone on Drake tube rigs?  This particular model Heil seems to be for the 
solid-state persuasion, from what I hear (??).   Thank you.

PSG


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Re: [Drakelist] cooling fan noise

[David Chris Drake]

Carl,
I just installed a 24v EBM-Pabst fan on the back of my TR7.  Getting 12v out of 
the radio to run at about half speed.   I then put a 2w 80 ohm resistor in 
series to slow the fan down more yet.  This is the third try at fans, and its 
now nearly undetectable, but moves enough air OUT of the radio for adequate 
cooling.  On my TR4C, I have a 12v fan with 4 of the little screw on drake feet 
like was used on the rear of radios to cushion and elevate the fan slightly 
above the top.  I position it above the final cage.  You could do the same 
thing with a TR7 or any tube radio.  I have a dual set in a frame I made 
sitting on top of my L4B and the L4PS.  Works great.
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: gypsym...@aol.com 
  To: Drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 12:11 PM
  Subject: [Drakelist] cooling fan noise


  Hello to the group,

  Am working with my TR 5.
  Initially used a R.S. fan but was way to noisy.
  Read the archives.  Evan K9SQG said he used 220 V. ...soo
  A Boxer  230 V. with ball bearings Pewee starts and runs fine.
  Still to noisy.  Made neoprene washers for the metal to metal mount...no help.
  I tried closed cell foam pads under the chassis feet...no help.
  NOTED that in open air on a dining room table that it was quiet when sitting 
on a bamboo placemat.
  I am using on a desk top, with a shelf for other equipment about 6 inchs 
up.  Echo chamber no..because if I lift it up... QUIET

  Anyone with any thoughts ?
  Carl Hibbard WD8NHK



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment

[David Chris Drake]

Thanks John,
I was thinking that, but I could'nt understand why.  I'll give it another go at 
140-150w and see.
73's
David, wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: John Stringer 
  To: David  Chris Drake ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 5:28 AM
  Subject: RE: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment


  Hello David. I had the same problem when I attempted to set 80M output at a 
much lower level.In the end I went back to 140W on 80M and this gives me 100W 
at 29.5 with the ALC light extinguishing. John. GI3KDR
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]on Behalf Of David  Chris Drake
Sent: 08 February 2009 21:13
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment


Hello,
I decided to go back into my TR-7 this afternoon and do some tweeking to my 
previous alignment. (the S meter seemed to read higher than my other radios by 
quite a bit).  After re-setting the S-meter per the manual, I thought I'd go 
back over the transmitter settings and lower the output somewhat.  I had read 
somewhere that Drake liked to set the ALC board at 120w instead of the called 
for 140-150w.  The purpose being purity of emissions.  I'm using it mainly with 
an L4B, so the extra 20-30 watts means little.

Per the manual, I set the carrier fully clockwise on 14mhz, keyed the radio 
and set the ALC pot to about 120w.  Then went to 28mhz and attempted to reset 
the predriver board to get the alc light to go out.  No can do.  The pot is 
fully CCW and no more there.  I remember when I did the previous alignment set 
at about 145w on 14mhz, and then on 28mhz, the alc light just started to dim at 
fully CCW on the predriver.

Any comments as to what I should or should not be doing?  PS, its sn 5300 
or so with the version 2 predriver.
Thanks,
David
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[Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment

[David Chris Drake]

Hello,
I decided to go back into my TR-7 this afternoon and do some tweeking to my 
previous alignment. (the S meter seemed to read higher than my other radios by 
quite a bit).  After re-setting the S-meter per the manual, I thought I'd go 
back over the transmitter settings and lower the output somewhat.  I had read 
somewhere that Drake liked to set the ALC board at 120w instead of the called 
for 140-150w.  The purpose being purity of emissions.  I'm using it mainly with 
an L4B, so the extra 20-30 watts means little.

Per the manual, I set the carrier fully clockwise on 14mhz, keyed the radio and 
set the ALC pot to about 120w.  Then went to 28mhz and attempted to reset the 
predriver board to get the alc light to go out.  No can do.  The pot is fully 
CCW and no more there.  I remember when I did the previous alignment set at 
about 145w on 14mhz, and then on 28mhz, the alc light just started to dim at 
fully CCW on the predriver.

Any comments as to what I should or should not be doing?  PS, its sn 5300 or so 
with the version 2 predriver.
Thanks,
David
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment

[David Chris Drake]

Thanks to Gary and Jim,
I think the finals in this rig are original, but not sure.  I'll look closer 
next week and play with it some more.  I had an ALC light on 28.7full 
brightness... at full CCW on the predriver with carrier control set at 
maximum CW.  I may go back to 150w and have another go at it that way, but 
it seems like that should not make a difference?


Other issues:  I had tweeked the S-meter some, but still reads high.  I've 
noticed at least 4 S-units higher than my Omni VI+ and about 5 S-units 
higher than my TR4C which I think reads a bit low.  On Calibrate, CW, on the 
null, its 20-30 over.


On the plus side, .the TR-7 receives great, had very good transmit audio 
reports, and A,B,C tests between the 3 radios are quite amazing.  You'd 
thing the Omni VI+ would knock the old Drakes dead, but NOT SO.  In fact, I 
cannot tell much difference between them.  (except when using the Omni's 
DSP)


If anyone has any ideas on the high S-meter reading, let me know, but until 
then, I'll do some more checking.


Thanks,
David

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 6:27 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Alignment



On Sun, 8 Feb 2009 17:36:01 -0500, Gary Poland wrote:

If I remember correctly the explaination I got from Drake for lowering the 
power to 120 watts was for PA stability on 40 meters, keeping the 
predriver below 1/2 turn.


I ran into the 40 meter instability problem on two rigs in the 3000
serial number range, my own TR7 with 2sc2879 replacement finals and one
that I picked up recently for resale with a completely stock PA. Both
had the version 2 predriver. I found that the situation could be
improved somewhat by increasing the low frequency negative feedback at
Q2201, by reducing the value of R2203. It's possible that doing the
same thing to Q2202/R2212 might help as well. Even with this mod, the
second TR7 required a delicate balance between ALC setting and
predriver gain setting to avoid 40 Meter oscillation with specified
power out. I think I ended up with the predriver gain set just below
maximum by a little ways. There appears to be a broad but definite gain
peak in the 9.3 to 9.7 MHz area, and I believe this is responsible for
the instability problem. I don't know what the root cause is at this
point, and it does not seem to affect all units.

73

-Jim


--
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TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


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[Drakelist] MS 4 speaker-Drake trivia

[David Chris Drake]

Hi, I have an older ms-4 that came with an early R4a I recently acquired.  
Interestingly, it has a speaker with an alnico magnet.  My newer Ms-4, that is 
R4C vintage, has a ceramic magnet.  Doing an A/B of the two, I think the alnico 
model sounds better, which is what I would have suspected.  Any comments here?  
Can I assume the alnico is original?  Any idea when Drake switched?
Thanks,
David
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[Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay

[David Chris Drake]

HI all,
I got hi rez picks from Radio Mart.  I looked them over good.  Here's my 
opinion.  
1.  A EXTRA nice looking radio, looks little used with original gray case.  
2.  It does have the split rear panel, and the sn is 515x...can't confirm the 
last digit.
3.  TR7A face plate, that looks original.
4.  No idea of the proper boards, since no inside picture.
5.  No TX marked jack on rear panel.  Nor does the spare RCA jack have the 
black insulating washer found on most TR7A's..  My reference was 12129 that I 
previously owned, and others I've seen.  There is a TR7A on ebay at present 
priced at $950 to start.  

So for lack of more information on boards included and the lack of the coverted 
TX jack, this is no doubt a converted TR7.

At the end of production, Drake may have dumped some TR7 parts in Europe 
which included some TR7A front panels.  This may account for the Holland ham's 
recollection of upgraded TR7's to TR7A's.  

In any event an upgraded TR7 to a TR7A was done by Drake, but never with a A 
front panel.  This has been confirmed over and over again.  What a supplier did 
in Europe, we have no idea.  One thing is clear.  If the serial number is not 
over 11000 or so, its not a real or authentic TR7A.  It it were mine, I'd 
find a parts radio and correct the front panel !!

Simply a very nice TR7.
73's
David
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Re: [Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay

[David Chris Drake]

Yes John,
Just got an email from radio mart confirming no connection to this plug.  He 
said it does have the aux 7 and am filter ( or a resistor across the 
terminals).  Not sure about the cw filter.  Its just a very nice TR7.  He 
really should retract the listing.
Regards,
David
Wd9cmd


- Original Message - 
  From: John Stringer 
  To: David  Chris Drake ; drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 4:10 PM
  Subject: RE: [Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay


  If the definition of a genuine TR7A is one that was produced in Miamisburg I 
believe that the following 4 criteria apply with item 4 being TOTALLY critical:

  1.  Front Panel perspex strip reads TR7A.
  2.  Serial number above about 11000 (mine is 11365)
  3.The  spare RCA connector on the back is now used and labelled TX in bold 
black print.
  4.  THIS IS THE CRITICAL ONE! There is a screened lead from the RCA connector 
mentioned and it goes to the board right beside the 4 pin microphone plug. This 
lead is inextricably woven into the wiring harness that goes from back to front 
of the radio.When you look at it you will realise that this could only have 
been done at the factory.

  I believe this is a conclusive test.
  John. GI3KDR.
-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net 
[mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]on Behalf Of David  Chris Drake
Sent: 22 January 2009 16:25
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR7A on Ebay


HI all,
I got hi rez picks from Radio Mart.  I looked them over good.  Here's my 
opinion.  
1.  A EXTRA nice looking radio, looks little used with original gray case.  
2.  It does have the split rear panel, and the sn is 515x...can't confirm 
the last digit.
3.  TR7A face plate, that looks original.
4.  No idea of the proper boards, since no inside picture.
5.  No TX marked jack on rear panel.  Nor does the spare RCA jack have 
the black insulating washer found on most TR7A's..  My reference was 12129 that 
I previously owned, and others I've seen.  There is a TR7A on ebay at present 
priced at $950 to start.  

So for lack of more information on boards included and the lack of the 
coverted TX jack, this is no doubt a converted TR7.

At the end of production, Drake may have dumped some TR7 parts in Europe 
which included some TR7A front panels.  This may account for the Holland ham's 
recollection of upgraded TR7's to TR7A's.  

In any event an upgraded TR7 to a TR7A was done by Drake, but never with a 
A front panel.  This has been confirmed over and over again.  What a supplier 
did in Europe, we have no idea.  One thing is clear.  If the serial number is 
not over 11000 or so, its not a real or authentic TR7A.  It it were mine, 
I'd find a parts radio and correct the front panel !!

Simply a very nice TR7.
73's
David
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[Drakelist] Fake TR7 on ebay

[David Chris Drake]

Hey gang, 
Ole' Radio Mart is at it again.  A TR7A with a 5xxx serial number !!  It does 
have an A front panel, so technically, he can claim it was sold as an A 
model, but the sn gives it away.
Its item number 250358419230 If anyone is interested.  I've asked for the hi 
rez pictures, so maybe he mis typed the sn ??  If not, I'm filing away the pics 
as a example of a fake TR7A.
David
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Re: [Drakelist] Drake QSO

[David Chris Drake]

Rick, 
As info, you can put the tubers to good use on CW in a couple weeks, and 
SSB/AM in February.  Classic Exchange or CX is sponsoring contests twice per 
year for antique or nostalgia radios.  You receive a 'multiplier' for the age 
of the equipement used.  See the Arrl Website for details at : 
http://www.arrl.org/news/features/2009/01/09/10557/?nc=1
Have fun with those Drakes !!
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Tucker 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 8:50 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] Drake QSO


  I had just finished going through my C-line and cleaning everything including 
switches and buttoning it back up.  I set it up in my operating position and 
after warm up put out a CQ on 80 cw.  W0CCA, in western CO came back and we had 
a long rag chew.  Cap was running his Drake B line.  What a pleasant 
coincidence.  Couldn't have planned it better.  Cap and I also use Drake R4A or 
B with DX 60s for some cw work.  

  Rick
  W0RT


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Re: [Drakelist] Drake QSO

[David Chris Drake]

For all that may be interested, here's the announcement from CX for the vintage 
radio contests upcoming; http://www.qsl.asti.com/CX/Feb2009announcement.html 

A good way to have some fun with the Drakes !!
Thanks,
David 
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Tucker 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 8:50 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] Drake QSO


  I had just finished going through my C-line and cleaning everything including 
switches and buttoning it back up.  I set it up in my operating position and 
after warm up put out a CQ on 80 cw.  W0CCA, in western CO came back and we had 
a long rag chew.  Cap was running his Drake B line.  What a pleasant 
coincidence.  Couldn't have planned it better.  Cap and I also use Drake R4A or 
B with DX 60s for some cw work.  

  Rick
  W0RT


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[Drakelist] TR-7 Board History and head scratching

[David Chris Drake]

Hi to all,
Looking for some historical information on Drake TR-7 boards.  I have before me 
two DR-7 boards, one being green, and labeled C-3849 R.  The second board is 
beige in color and looks to be a bit better quality.  It is labeled C-3849 W.  
I also see that the circuitry is slightly different.  Is the W a newer board?

Next up, the power supply boards.  Also have two before me, both green, one 
labeled B-3970 L and the other is B-3970 W.  Again, the circuitry is slightly 
different.  The later has a 0.05 ceramic cap bridgeing the center taps of the 
two onboard transistors.  The L board has the same cap, but , its on the 
circuit board.  Both have additional resistors on the bottom across R2129 and 
R2130.  On the W board these appear to be 66 ohm each (if my eyes are seeing 
correct).  The L board has resistors in the same position and these are 68 ohm 
resistors (ok, close).  By the schematic, (and I have both the original 78 
manual and the 80 revised editions), these two on board resistors should be 
15 ohms.  Checking both boards, (I did'nt pull the resistors to check their 
value), they are in fact marked 15 ohm and are carbon comp.  Simple 
calculations net out just a shade over 12 ohms equivalent.  I realize its not a 
big difference, but why was it done?  Increase the current to the T-2101 
Transformer?  Which in turn would raise the voltage on the 25v line?

So, the questions are, 1) Whats the history in the labeling, and 2) Are the 
bridging resistors on the underside of both power supply boards factory wiring?

All this started because during an alignment, I could'nt get the required 
voltage on the VCO board, (shy by around 1-1.5v) and found I only had 22 volts 
going in instead of 24-25v.

Thanks in advance for your input.
David
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Board History and head scratching

[David Chris Drake]

Thanks Jim,
Oh, and one board has the called for 2.7k resistor to ground on the 25v 
line, and the other one has a 7k resistor that looks original.  None of my 
schematics show any change called for.  Changing out the caps might be a 
good idea.

David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Shorney jshor...@inebraska.com

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Monday, January 12, 2009 9:21 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Board History and head scratching



Hi David,

On Mon, 12 Jan 2009 20:43:46 -0500, David  Chris Drake wrote:


Looking for some historical information on Drake TR-7 boards.


Welcome to the world of undocumented changes. User information like
what you have provided helps add data points for the collective.


All this started because during an alignment, I could'nt get the required 
voltage on the VCO board, (shy by around 1-1.5v) and found I only had 22 
volts going in instead of 24-25v.


I can't answer your specific questions about the board changes, but I
would recommend replacing the electrolytic caps on the PS boards -
expecially C2108. They are getting old, and strange things can happen
as they go bad.

73

-Jim

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GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!


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Re: [Drakelist] Hammarlund

[David Chris Drake]

Bill,
If you need any help, let me know, I've refurb'd several of them.
Good luck,
David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: Al Parker anc...@ec.rr.com

To: billjhs bill...@verizon.net; drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 8:10 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Hammarlund



Hi Bill,
   2 good ones are:
www.hammarlund.info   
www.boatanchors.org
   Take a look at the H-Files on the first one, you should see the 
original ads, maybe more.
   The same sight might have manuals for each, if not, let me know.  You 
could also find them on http://bama.sbc.edu/ .

   (I love my Drakes, and my Hammarlunds)
73,
Al, W8UT
New Bern, NC
www.boatanchors.org
www.hammarlund.info

there is nothing -absolutely nothing- half as much worth doing as simply 
messing about in boats.

  Ratty, to Mole


- Original Message - 
From: billjhs bill...@verizon.net

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:46 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] Hammarlund


Sorry guys, I know this doesn't have anything to do with Drakes (I love 
my r4/t4x) but does anyone know of good Hammarlund websites. I acquired 
an hq 100 and 110, I would like to get more info on them..

73
Bill Wa2jhs


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[Drakelist] Looking for a T-4 any

[David Chris Drake]

Hi to all.
Looking for a T-4 any at a reasonable price to go with a R4a I have just 
completed refurbishment.  Receiver works great and needs a partner !!  Chassis 
needs to be clean and without corrosion if possible.  Respond direct to 
dra...@psci.net
Thanks,
David
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Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C

[David Chris Drake]

No Lee, none of us ever seem to learn.  Just figure its in your genes 
somewhere to rescue one of the beloved from the ashes behold the original 
joy of the soft glow of the valves.

David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: LEE BAHR [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: drakelist drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 8:24 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-4C


Well, I never learn.  I saw a TR-4C with a nice front panel, no cabinet 
screws, missing one small knob, no relay, burned out 1/2 watt resistor on 
relay board, missing 7 small tubes, missing two crystals, and no pilot 
lamps just loose lamp sockets.  I also was told the multi section can 
electrolytic on the radio is bad.  Lots of dirt and dust but no corrosion. 
No idea if it needs more work besides cleaning, lubricating, and 
alignment.  Who know what shape the finals are in.


BUT, I had to have it.  It was sitting on my local ham dealer's work bench 
for years.  (Oh, I'm sure the blue dial lenses are washed out too).  It 
has no noise blanker.  I picked it up for a fair price if you figure the 
parts value.  If you figure what I have to put into it, maybe $100 if I 
have no unexpected suprises without counting my labor, I figure I could 
maybe sell it working for around $50 under my actual parts cost.  That is, 
if the finals still work and the filters are good.  Otherwise it could 
swallow up another $200 to $250.  What a deal.  It had to be rescued.  Was 
I wrong? Was I bad?  Whats the matter with me?


Now I need to buy a MS-4 and AC-4 and then rebuild the AC-4 too!  I must 
be sick!


Lee, w0vt



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Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Frequency Problem

[David Chris Drake]

Terry, 
First check the TR7 power supply board for exactly +10v.  This is the rightmost 
pot and you can measure the 10v next to it on the top of a resistor as I 
recall.  Go to wb4hfn.com and you should find info on where to measure this.  
This is not the best place to measure and adjust, but easy for starters.  The 
+10v pot is easy to bump and knock off.  Certainly, ... don't touch it until 
you've measured the +10v.  When it is off (more or less than +10v), this can 
effect most every circuit in the radio.  Resetting to +10v might solve the 
problem in the short run, but any change to this setting usually requires a 
full alignment.  The 10v is properly set by taking measurement on a trace on 
the motherboard.  You'll need the service manual for this one. And a high 
quality DVM.

While you are looking at the power supply board, look down about half way to 
the little transformer and make sure it is all in one piece.  Sometimes the 
core comes loose and falls away.  This makes for all kinds of stability 
problems, not to mention causing an unlock to the freq. display.

If the +10v supply is spot on, I'd suggest a full alignment.  Again, you'll 
need the service manual for that one.

I'm sure others on this list have far more experience than I regarding a 
specific problem on 160, so I'll defer to their comments.

David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Monday, December 08, 2008 8:51 AM
  Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Frequency Problem


  My TR-7 has developed a frequency problem. When turned on with the bandswitch 
on 160m, the frequency readout showed a frequency of 17600-17800 Khz and was 
jittery. After warmup of a half hour or so, it would start working and and show 
1870 Khz like it should. Now, it doesn't show 1870 khz at all and stays in the 
17600-17800 range even after warm up. Neither the RX or TX is working.

  However when I push the RCT button and go to my R-7 for frequency control, 
everything is working correctly and I am on 1870 Khz and the RX and TX is fine. 
When I switch to transmit the TR-7 readout shows 1870 Khz. When I go to RX then 
it goes back to 17600-17800 Khz.  So where should I start looking in the TR-7 
to find the problem? Is this a known problem that someone else has experienced 
or a new one? Any help someone could offer would be appreciated.

  Terry, 
W8NJR






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Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7 and R7

[David Chris Drake]

I'd say the rig was used for swl purposes, and the owner was trying to get 
maximum sensitivity out of it, although questionable how much more, if any. 
I seem to remember this mod on one of the swl lists/sites.

David
Wd9cmd

- Original Message - 
From: Jim Shorney [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Wednesday, December 03, 2008 9:56 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] Drake TR7 and R7



Hi John,

On Wed, 3 Dec 2008 21:06:24 -, John Stringer wrote:

1. The RIT on the R7 should be about plus or minus 3khz It has been 
modified

to plus or minus 200hz. Yes 200hz. Why?


Probably the same reason I reduced the range on the RIT control in my
HR2510. WHen using the RIT as a fine tune control, you're not usually
going more than a couple of hundred Hertz, at the most. There's really
not much need for 6 KHz of range, and reducing the range makes it
easier to fine tune with that tiny knob.



2. An SO239 has been installed on the back panel



A. Connect the antenna to the SO239 so bypassing the Antenna Switch.

B.Install a jumper between the SO239 and the spare RCA socket and put the
antenna into its proper RCA connector so routing the antenna via the 
Antenna

Switch--in other words the normal way.



That's an interesting one. My fisrt thought is to allow the user to
bypass the antenna selector, as the splitter has some loss through it.
There is theoretical 3 dB dignal drop through any two-way splitter
(half the signal goes to each port),  plus circuit losses, which
typically adds up to 3.5 to 4 dB in the real world. However, I was
looking at the schematic just a couple of nights ago, and it appears
that the splitter circuit is bypassed when the antenna selector is set
to Main/Alt ... which would make sense. This would leave and small
(probably insignifigant) loss in the cables and switch itself.

In light of that, the only thing that really makes sense me is pehaps
the owner wanted to use the antenna selector to feed two other radios
other than the R7 from one of two antennas, at the same time the R7 was
being used on a third antenna. Or maybe that it was an easy place to
put a real antenna connector, and the owner elected to bypass what was
essentially an unused feature when the radio was used in that
configuration, or the isolation between ports wasn't sufficient for
some reason.

Maybe someone else has a more obscure reason?

73

-Jim
NU0C




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[Drakelist] L4B Troubleshooting Help

[David Chris Drake]

Hi all,

Previously, I believe I discussed with some of you an L4B I recently acquired.  
To recap,..Looked good cosmetically, internals looked good with no visual 
burnt or dark areas and no signs of arcing.  However, when fired up, I found 
that the plate current read around 2000v on low plate and 3000v on high plate 
(ssb).  This seems way high to me (read on the rf unit meter).  During this 
short time, the power supply got very warm.  Also when switching from cw to 
ssb, the deck and supply made some noise (vibration or oscilation somewhere).  
At that point, I decided to rebuild the power supply as a first step to be sure 
I had the correct and clean b+.  A fairly old unit by serial number, so I 
figured it was due before I went any further.

Now we are all up to date.

I just completed re-building the L4 supply with a kit from Harbach Electronics. 
 The kit went well, and from start to finish, it took about 2 hours time.  I 
tripple checked all the solder joints and connections.  Having no 220 variac, 
and not wanting to convert both the deck and supply to 110 and back again, I 
chose to plug it in and see how it goes.  

At first all seemed fine.  The amp was idleing with no rig or antenna 
connected.  The power supply stayed way cooler than before and all seemed ok so 
far.  Everything lit up, filaments lights, meters ect.  However, I still saw 
around 1900v on the cw position (low plate).  After a few minutes, I flipped 
the switch to high plate(ssb), heard a boing sound, saw 2900v on the meter, 
and a lot of noise and oscillation from the RF deck.  I quickly pulled the 
plug.  I could not tell for sure, but the most of the noise seemed to be coming 
from the rear of the rf deck near or from the transformer.   

I don't have any high voltage volt meters (past 1500v) so I can't check any 
contacts directly.  Any suggestions on troubleshooting???.I don't think 
things are right !!

David
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[Drakelist] TR7 Control Cable Plugs

[David Chris Drake]

Just a FYI to the list:

After searching for the control cable cinch plug for my TR7, I finally located 
one at Electronic Plus.  Tried the normal outlets such as Mouser, Digi-key, 
Allied, Newark and others.  No stock on this obsolete plug.  However, I did 
find it at Electronic Plus online.  This outlet is in California and the plug 
was received yesterday.

The plug is a female Cinch S-310-CCT and is normally on the control cable of 
the PS7.  However if you run your TR7 on a non-Drake supply this plug comes in 
handy for user make up of ALC and relay cables for an external amplifier such 
as a L7 or L4 and others.

If other sources are known, I would suggest posting to the list for anyone 
interested.  Please note the web site as www.electronicplus.com  versus another 
site as electronics plus.  These are two different outfits.

73's
David
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[Drakelist] AC4R

[David Chris Drake]

To the List;

I just completed the AC4R upgrade.  The results were excellent.  The board 
installed with little effort.  

I began this project due to my AC4 getting some age on it, and I had noticed a 
drop in output from my TR4C on 40m down to around 150-160w.  My AC4 was 
purchased new by me at Dayton back in 79, so it was of the last produced, so I 
suggest anyone using the 4 line rigs to seriously consider this upgrade.

My TR4C output is now back to 200w on 75 and 40, 180 on 20 and 160 on 15, which 
I think is typical of this unit with good finals.  While it may be wishfull 
thinking,I think the radio sounds better as well. !!?

The only comments I would make regarding the instructions are to cut each white 
wire to the bias pot individually to the shortest length possible.  Otherwise, 
like me you'll be searching for some wire for the last connection from the new 
board to the pot.  Also, on my supply, the can capacitor had a very large glob 
of solder on the ground which caused extra effort getting it out of there.  If 
anyone has the same situation, you will need a hotter than normal iron or 
desoldering tool.  I only have irons in the 20-30 watt range for most 
electronic work, and are inadequate to heat this solder.  I was able to get it 
loose using two irons.



73's,
David
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[Drakelist] L4B switch

[David Chris Drake]

Hi all,
I've been told and have read where the power switch for an L4-L4B is 
unavailable.  Does anyone have a replacement source or remedy?  I have one that 
is always on, but the cw/ssb high plate switch works fine.  Has anyone ever 
repaired one?  I suppose I could rig up an external switch to retain the looks 
as a last resort.
Thanks,
David 
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[Drakelist] Cinch Jones Connector for TR7

[David Drake]

Hello, does anyone have available a S-310-CCT cinch connector for a TR7?  This 
is the one normally wired on the PS7 cable for rig control,  the 10 pin 
connector.
I've tried the sources outlined on Ron Baker's website and none in stock at 
either source.  Also tried an internet search, and did'nt locate one.  I need 
one to run ALC and Relay to a L4B amp.

Thanks, 
David 
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[Drakelist] L4 PS

[David Chris Drake]

Hello,
Just acquired an L4B plus L4PS.  First question: PS has a sn of 142X.  This sn 
does not seem to match up to the ones on wb4hfn's site.  Any history?  The last 
Drake rig I ever saw with an X was a TR-6 prototype that I used back in the 
70's.

Second question: The caps in the power supply are blue sprague atoms with both 
leads on top of the cap and not axial.  There also seems to be a skinny board 
at the base of these caps.  I have'nt taken it apart to better understand the 
connections or modifications as yet.  I'm assuming this is not original, since 
I understand Drake used axial capacitors.  Am I correct here?  And did Drake 
ever do any of the mod's outlined above?  Looks like a pro job from looking at 
the tops of the capacitors and the little long skinny boards at the bottom?

Before I picked this up, I had it in my head I'd need to get a upgrade board 
from the Heathkit Shop, but now I'm not sure that will be necessary, at least 
in the short run.  Oh, I have'nt fired it up yet, so I cannot comment on the 
smell or anything else.  I'm planning on bringing it up slowly on a variac.  I 
was told it had been in storage for around 8 years.

Thanks,
David
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[drakelist] Soft Start

[David Drake]

Hi all,
I'm considering a Harbach Soft Start mod for my TT amp and then got to thinking 
about modding some of my other rig power supplies for soft start as well.  Such 
as my AC4, TenTec 12v and RS35 supplies.  Any thoughts or comments before I do 
the deed?  I probably should have checked the archives first, but figured I'd 
go ahead and post to the list.

PS band condition were the pits Sunday for the Drake net.  I could only hear 
Jeff and a couple others.  Boy I hope things improve soon !!
Thanks,
David
Wd9cmd

Re: [drakelist] First Steps

[David Chris Drake]

David  Chris Drake [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang
--
Hi Jason, and welcome back to the bands.  Its difficult to tell where to 
start and I'm sure others out there will have separate opinions.  I'd give 
it a try on 40 first.  Without a dummy load, you'll have to look for a spot 
on the band that is inactive.  Again, since this is the first time, set the 
resist, and reactance knobs mid way on the tuner.  Then try to load up the 
t4x for max output or use the instructions in the manual.  Once you get the 
t4 idling along, you can adjust the tuner for min. swr, or, as some do, 
maximum output on a wattmeter.  Go back and forth until you are seeing the 
maximum output it will do. Best advise is to just give it a try, with very 
short tune up times, and tweaking as you go.  You may have to go back and 
forth several times, so be patient until you get everything in resonance.


Also, you'll not find much action like you were used to a few years back. 
The noise you are hearing is common.  We are at or very near the absolute 
low for the sunspot cycle, and you have to be pretty dedicated to make 
contacts these days.  Its likely your rigs are fine, and just a victim of 
the times.  It will get better, hopefully soon.


Its best to get a dummy load.  Then you know you have a 50 ohm match, and 
then only have to worry about one thing at a time.


As for working on the rigs, you'll find lots of help here when you need it. 
Also refer to www.wb4hfn.com for lots of information and how to's.  You'll 
also find links to others websites as well.

David

- Original Message - 
From: Jason Bonnough [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Sent: Saturday, July 26, 2008 9:23 PM
Subject: [drakelist] First Steps


Jason Bonnough [EMAIL PROTECTED] made an utterance to the drakelist 
gang

--
Hello all,
I have been watching the list-serv for about a month now and I have a 
question for all that can help.


I have been an amateur radio operator for a number of years but mostly 
active on 2M. Never on HF... I bought a R-4B and T-4BX a number of years 
ago in hopes that I would start to explore HF more than just the random 
perhaps yearly scan through SWL. But then I joined the Navy, (Became an ET 
whose primary duty was the URT-23Ds on a ship, HF Transmitters 
ironically...) and put my Drakes pretty much into storage. Also, in this 
time became an inactive ham due to my command being in Japan and I had no 
place to operate.
Well, I am back in the states, have my own place and pretty much the first 
thing I did was pull the Drakes out of storage, set them up on a cheap 
coffee table (I have no furniture now and am slowly buying more.. no 
desk!! gonna build one soon...) and attached a ~75' wire as an antenna 
through a MFJ-16010 Random Wire Tuner. And to save space because I have no 
room in an apartment that doesn't like things hanging out of their 
apartments (even on the 2nd floor) I spun the wire in a somewhat diamond 
shape using supports from a cardboard box that I cut up so the cardboard 
supports look like an X with an inward spiraling wire.
Anywho, after that detailed setup, here is my situation. I can hear some 
stations just fine, I even got a SWL QSL card from the Canadian Time 
Standard station CAN. but I'm afraid to test TX, especially without a 
dummy load. A hamfest will be coming up in September in my area and I plan 
on getting one there unless I can get one that I bought that is in storage 
in Oklahoma sent to me.  (Rargh, I digress again.) I would like to try to 
make this system back into full operation both TX and RX. I have no test 
equipment other than a pocket mulitmeter from Radio Shack and well, on 
very limited budget. I have seen comments here about replacing caps and 
such... how can one tell when that is needed exactly? I have so much RF 
noise in the area, I cannot tell if its just ambient noise or bad 
equipment... Working on this stuff is no where near as easy as working on 
the modular designs of the URT-23D and really without an o-scope.. I feel 
lost... I like to see

signals...
Any suggestions on how to test and if necessary replace components on this 
stuff would be greatly appreciated. I really want to learn my system 
inside and out and am willing to do everything it takes to get the Drakes 
100%, budget willing...

Thanks!!!
73s
Jason Bonnough
AD5IY


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Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation

[David Chris Drake]

FYI to the group
I too have a heath VTVM that I use frequently for receiver alignment and other 
uses.  The probe is rarely included when you find one of the many versions 
(cosmetically) of pretty much the same design.  The probe designed for these 
VTVM's is not necessary.  The best thing to do is modify the input circuit, 
very simple to do.  Then when the main switch is turned from AC to DC to Ohms, 
you have the correct input impedance and blocking.  It makes the Heath as easy 
to use as the Simpson 260/270 series.  You simply buy a set of standard probes 
and a stereo 1/4 phone plug and wire the two leads to it.  I have the 
information here somewhere and can supply to anyone who wants.  Its also 
available on the internet.  
David
wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 9:07 AM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation


   [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
You might want to keep your eyes open for one of the Heath VTVMs
  Hi Garey,
  And somewhere on the internet was rebuilding instructions (or have it done) 
for the probes I believe I found the article somehow through the drakelist.
  Carl WD8NHK





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Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation

[David Drake]

Dick,
Here's the link to the probe fix.  If you have a good probe with your heathkit, 
then use it.  You can also make one if so inclined and are the industrious 
sort.  Also, I think BK made a similar probe with the resistor installed and 
you could switch it in and out at or near the probe tip.  Don't remember for 
sure.  I have one with the original probe, calibrated, and one with the probe 
fix installed.  It is also calibrated.  Both work and read identical.  I 
suppose there are cases where the probe fix may cause the meter to read wrong, 
but I have not found any in normal shop work.  I believe mine does use the old 
style phone plug that heathkit sold with the unit new.  As I recall it does 
have additional insulation between tip and sleeve, so that may be an issue to 
consider.  My Flukes and Simpson gets the most use here but the heathkit VTVM 
is used often when I have an old receiver to align.

http://www.theheathkitshop.com/vtvmprobefix.html

Good luck,
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Donley 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 12:13 PM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation


  I would be interested in seeing what info you have on the probe changes.

  Dick
- Original Message - 
From: David  Chris Drake 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation


FYI to the group
I too have a heath VTVM that I use frequently for receiver alignment and 
other uses.  The probe is rarely included when you find one of the many 
versions (cosmetically) of pretty much the same design.  The probe designed for 
these VTVM's is not necessary.  The best thing to do is modify the input 
circuit, very simple to do.  Then when the main switch is turned from AC to DC 
to Ohms, you have the correct input impedance and blocking.  It makes the Heath 
as easy to use as the Simpson 260/270 series.  You simply buy a set of standard 
probes and a stereo 1/4 phone plug and wire the two leads to it.  I have the 
information here somewhere and can supply to anyone who wants.  Its also 
available on the internet.  
David
wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Thursday, July 17, 2008 9:07 AM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation


   [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
You might want to keep your eyes open for one of the Heath VTVMs
  Hi Garey,
  And somewhere on the internet was rebuilding instructions (or have it 
done) for the probes I believe I found the article somehow through the 
drakelist.
  Carl WD8NHK





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Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation

[David Chris Drake]

Alan, most any Fluke will do as the others have said, and I have two bench top 
models to attest to that.  The handhelds are all very good meters.  The Fluke 
117 is near the best of the affordable line, and the 110 is at the bottom.  
Of these the 115 or 117 would be a good choice.  The 83's, 85's and 87's start 
to get pretty pricey, and you really pay up for the accuracy.  

An alternative to consider for less money is, believe it or not, a Sears 
Craftsman.  You'll need to research the model numbers, but one of the two 
higher end models are very  good meters with extra large numeral readout.  I 
have the top model and keep it in my radio room in the drawer.  Its a very 
handy meter, and accurate enough for most all I need to do.  I got it off ebay, 
new in the package for $80.  (almost hate to admit to that)   Any one of the 
lesser models are also quality meters for less money.

Good luck,
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 16, 2008 5:03 PM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] DMM recommendation


  I second the Fluke nomination.  Big easy to read display and very bullet 
proof.  

  Just about any model would work nicely for you.  Personally, I don't have the 
patience for autoranging meters and so prefer to set the range myself, and 
these tend to be a bit cheaper.

  73
  Lee WB6SSW  

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[drakelist] TR7 Parts

[David Chris Drake]

Fellas, aside from the R4B blatant false advertizing that has taken up so much 
air time, I see that a pair of side trim panels for a TR7 has been bid up to 
$45 with several minutes to go on epay.  I continue to be amazed at how demand 
can run prices up.  I'm now convinced that owning any Drake radio is an 
investment.  So, next time your xyl says too many black boxes, just say you own 
them for her benefit, not yours.  That ought to keep them quiet.or at least 
cause for pause.

Good investing !! and 73's
David 
wd9cmd

Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws

[David Chris Drake]

Hi guys, 
I've been monitoring the threads on the screws and it looks like the web page 
noted below, is for business purchases.  I have a small retail business which 
could make the buy, divide them up and distribute to whoever needs them.  Just 
want to be made whole eventually.  I did reply to their link for a data sheet.  
I'll see then and make sure its the right screw.
Later,
David 
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 8:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


  In a message dated 7/8/2008 8:26:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:



I found these that seem to be the right type- 6-32 slotted, pan head black 
oxide steel 1/4 inch long $83 for 1.

http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/stores/superstore/step5.cfm?partId=110969productCode=MSPBcategory=Screws

Mike W6MXV


  Do I hear Group Buy?
  Thats a great price, someone should go for it  part it out in 100pcs lots:-)
  Even at $5.00 per hundred, thats $500 plus shipping of course.
  73...
  Rich WA2RQY/4 

Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws

[David Chris Drake]

PS, I thought I remembered someone out there having screws available for the 
twins.  I checked Ron's site and found him.  I did'nt email him, but seems he 
has the screws available at a reasonable price.  Here's the link to his email 
address and description of the screws he has available.
http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeArticles/DrakeParts/Drake_Screws.htm
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: David  Chris Drake 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:07 AM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


  Hi guys, 
  I've been monitoring the threads on the screws and it looks like the web page 
noted below, is for business purchases.  I have a small retail business which 
could make the buy, divide them up and distribute to whoever needs them.  Just 
want to be made whole eventually.  I did reply to their link for a data sheet.  
I'll see then and make sure its the right screw.
  Later,
  David 
  Wd9cmd
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


In a message dated 7/8/2008 8:26:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:



  I found these that seem to be the right type- 6-32 slotted, pan head 
black 
  oxide steel 1/4 inch long $83 for 1.
  
http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/stores/superstore/step5.cfm?partId=110969productCode=MSPBcategory=Screws

  Mike W6MXV


Do I hear Group Buy?
Thats a great price, someone should go for it  part it out in 100pcs 
lots:-)
Even at $5.00 per hundred, thats $500 plus shipping of course.
73...
Rich WA2RQY/4 

Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws

[David Chris Drake]

Way to go Ron!!  Here's a pdf spec sheet attached.  Looks to be the correct 
screw.  I'll order a pack from your website as soon as its available.
David
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: Ron Baker 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:23 AM
  Subject: RE: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


  ALL,regarding the Drake screws being discussed.   I just placed an order 
for 10,000 screws.   I should receive then in about two weeks.   I will package 
them up in 100 piece packages and list them on the 'For Sale section of my 
website, they will be listed with the other Drake accessories I sell.

  Listed below is the link where they will be when I have them available.
  http://www.wb4hfn.com/SALES/ForsaleHomePage.htm


  Thanks,  Ron / WB4HFN




--
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of David  Chris 
Drake
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:07 AM
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


  Hi guys, 
  I've been monitoring the threads on the screws and it looks like the web page 
noted below, is for business purchases.  I have a small retail business which 
could make the buy, divide them up and distribute to whoever needs them.  Just 
want to be made whole eventually.  I did reply to their link for a data sheet.  
I'll see then and make sure its the right screw.
  Later,
  David 
  Wd9cmd
- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 8:41 PM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


In a message dated 7/8/2008 8:26:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:



  I found these that seem to be the right type- 6-32 slotted, pan head 
black 
  oxide steel 1/4 inch long $83 for 1.
  
http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/stores/superstore/step5.cfm?partId=110969productCode=MSPBcategory=Screws

  Mike W6MXV


Do I hear Group Buy?
Thats a great price, someone should go for it  part it out in 100pcs 
lots:-)
Even at $5.00 per hundred, thats $500 plus shipping of course.
73...
Rich WA2RQY/4 

Screws -- MS Pan Head.pdf
Description: Adobe PDF document

Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws

[David Drake]

Thanks Mike, but Ron beat me to it !  No problem though, It would have been 
hard to find a home for 10,000.  I'm sure Ron will have an inventory for some 
time to come!!  And, I'd just a soon not be known as the screw guy !  Hi Hi.
Later,
David 
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: MICHAEL TALLENT 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 11:20 AM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


  You should not have any problems ordering them, business or not.  If there is 
a problem from this site you can order the exact same thing at the same price 
from amazon.com as that is where I orginally found the screws.

  Don't forget my standard finders fee of 100 screws :-)

  Mike W6MXV
- Original Message - 
From: David  Chris Drake 
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 9:07 AM
Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


Hi guys, 
I've been monitoring the threads on the screws and it looks like the web 
page noted below, is for business purchases.  I have a small retail business 
which could make the buy, divide them up and distribute to whoever needs them.  
Just want to be made whole eventually.  I did reply to their link for a data 
sheet.  I'll see then and make sure its the right screw.
Later,
David 
Wd9cmd
  - Original Message - 
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  To: drakelist@zerobeat.net 
  Sent: Tuesday, July 08, 2008 8:41 PM
  Subject: Re: [drakelist] Drake 4 series screws


  In a message dated 7/8/2008 8:26:45 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL 
PROTECTED] writes:



I found these that seem to be the right type- 6-32 slotted, pan head 
black 
oxide steel 1/4 inch long $83 for 1.

http://www.fastenersuperstore.com/stores/superstore/step5.cfm?partId=110969productCode=MSPBcategory=Screws

Mike W6MXV


  Do I hear Group Buy?
  Thats a great price, someone should go for it  part it out in 100pcs 
lots:-)
  Even at $5.00 per hundred, thats $500 plus shipping of course.
  73...
  Rich WA2RQY/4