Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Station For Sale - Available at Richmond, VA "Frostfest" on Saturday February 2nd

[Mike Pappas]

Nice series of articles in QST Dino!

Mike Pappas
Pappas Consulting LLC
303-988-0976
advanceddigi...@mac.com



> On Jan 31, 2019, at 1:46 PM, Dino Papas  wrote:
> 
> I decided to thin the herd a bit and let go of my TR7 station and will have 
> it available at the Richmond, Virginia “Frostfest” coming up on February 2nd. 
>  A nice rig that has just become excess to my needs.
> 
> — TR-7 HF transceiver with AUX-7 board
> — Filters: 6 kHz AM/2.3 kHz SSB/1.8 kHz (SSB/data) and 300 Hz CW
> — Matching PS7 12VDC power supply
> — NB7 Noise Blanker option
> — MS7 Station Speaker
> — RV7 Remote VFO for split frequency operation
> — SP75 Speech Processor
> — P75 Phone Patch
> — Original manual and service manual
> — Extensive station info binder
> — PCB extender service boards
> 
> I will have a video available showing proper operation and output power at 
> the hamfest.
> 
> Prefer not to ship….asking $1150 for the set.
> 
> Hope to see you there!
> 
> 73 - Dino KL0S
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Station For Sale - Available at Richmond, VA "Frostfest" on Saturday February 2nd

[Dino Papas]

I decided to thin the herd a bit and let go of my TR7 station and will have it 
available at the Richmond, Virginia “Frostfest” coming up on February 2nd.  A 
nice rig that has just become excess to my needs.

— TR-7 HF transceiver with AUX-7 board
— Filters: 6 kHz AM/2.3 kHz SSB/1.8 kHz (SSB/data) and 300 Hz CW
— Matching PS7 12VDC power supply
— NB7 Noise Blanker option
— MS7 Station Speaker
— RV7 Remote VFO for split frequency operation
— SP75 Speech Processor
— P75 Phone Patch
— Original manual and service manual
— Extensive station info binder
— PCB extender service boards

I will have a video available showing proper operation and output power at the 
hamfest.

Prefer not to ship….asking $1150 for the set.

Hope to see you there!

73 - Dino KL0S
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transceiver 2 Digit LED Display.

[Roger VE7LB]

Hi Robert,

The National Semiconductor part number is NSN382. I have them new for $25 
postpaid from Canada to the US. If possible please take a look at the rear of 
the 2 digit LED  display. You will find a number like 1.5, 2.0, 2.5 etc. This 
is the relative brightness of the display. The higher the number the brighter 
the display. The most common is 2.0. Please give me this number so I can match 
your LED.

 

Please reply off list.

 

73

Roger VE7LB

 

From: Drakelist  On Behalf Of Robert Sisco
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2018 8:20 PM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transceiver 2 Digit LED Display.

 

Does anyone know a cross reference Part Number for the Drake TR-7

2 digit, MHz, LED display on the DR-7 board?

 

The Drake Part Number is 3080021.

These are the two red seven segment LED  numeric displays used to

Display the MHz digits in the Frequency Counter.

One digit has 2 segments, that don’t work.

The other digit has a different 2 segments, that don’t work. 

 

Regards, Robert Sisco K5LYT Wednesday

 

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>  for Windows 10

 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transceiver 2 Digit LED Display.

[Jim Shorney]

There is no known cross reference. DF4NW offers high quality complete display
replacements.

http://www.df4nw.de/

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Wed, 3 Oct 2018 22:20:04 -0500, Robert Sisco wrote:

>Does anyone know a cross reference Part Number for the Drake TR-7
>2 digit, MHz, LED display on the DR-7 board?
>
>The Drake Part Number is 3080021.
>These are the two red seven segment LED  numeric displays used to
>Display the MHz digits in the Frequency Counter.
>One digit has 2 segments, that don’t work.
>The other digit has a different 2 segments, that don’t work. 
>
>Regards, Robert Sisco K5LYT Wednesday

--

"It's an Earth food. They are called Swedish meatballs! It's a strange thing, 
but every sentient race has its own version of these Swedish meatballs! I 
suspect it's one of those great universal mysteries which will either never be 
explained, or which would drive you mad if you ever learned the truth!" - 
G'Kar, Babylon 5



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transceiver 2 Digit LED Display.

[gpoland1]

Robert,
   These are made by a fellow in Germany ... http://www.df4nw.de/

73, Gary


Character height .39" (9.9mm)

Price per kit (RED, GREEN or YELLOW): EUR 40,00



BLUE: Limited Quantity Available !!!

Price per kit: EUR 45.00



Specify LED colour when ordering

Shipping charges see below.



One kit consists of:

- Display board

- Right angle connector - split unit

- Filter foil - SMOKE colour

  Supplied in 2 different shades

  Suitable for all LED colours




---
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Transceiver 2 Digit LED Display.

[Robert Sisco]

Does anyone know a cross reference Part Number for the Drake TR-7
2 digit, MHz, LED display on the DR-7 board?

The Drake Part Number is 3080021.
These are the two red seven segment LED  numeric displays used to
Display the MHz digits in the Frequency Counter.
One digit has 2 segments, that don’t work.
The other digit has a different 2 segments, that don’t work. 

Regards, Robert Sisco K5LYT Wednesday

Sent from Mail for Windows 10

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 AF/RF Gain control and T/R relay

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 22 May 2015 12:16:02 -0500, Tom Hendrix wrote:

>I am looking for a AF/RF gain control, which includes the on/off switch
>for my TR-7.

Unobtanium unless you want to pay eBay prices to the "tin man" radio strippers.
Otherwise you will need to rebuild it using parts from similar controls.
 

>Also, the TR-7 is getting lazy about switching back to receive from transmit
>on both CW and SSB.  I suspect the T/R relay because I can repeatedly
>switch back and forth and it will eventually receive properly.  Is cleaning
>and/or burnishing the contacts on these typically enough to solve this
>problem, or does this usually require replacement?

You could certainly try to clean it, but replacements are readily available if
you would rather go that route. It could also be that you have a touchy Molex
connector on a PC board somewhere. Cleaning/DeOxit-ing the Molex connectors
often solves intermittent problems in 7-Line gear.

73

-Jim
NU0C

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 AF/RF Gain control and T/R relay

[Tom Hendrix]

Hello all.

 

I am looking for a AF/RF gain control, which includes the on/off switch

for my TR-7.

 

Also, the TR-7 is getting lazy about switching back to receive from transmit

on both CW and SSB.  I suspect the T/R relay because I can repeatedly

switch back and forth and it will eventually receive properly.  Is cleaning

and/or burnishing the contacts on these typically enough to solve this

problem, or does this usually require replacement?

 

Email address on QRZ is good if you wish to reply that way.

 

Thanks,

 

Tom, WA0E

 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 "Warble" in received (and transmit) signal

[Robert Spooner]

Leon,

Try listening for the oscillators on a general coverage receiver. That should 
help you find the one with the warble.

But before you do that, clean and reseat the Molex connectors. That is always 
the first thing to do when something goes wrong.

73,
Bob AD3K

On Feb 11, 2014, at 8:59 PM, Leon Zebrick  wrote:

> Tuning the "cal." signal and monitoring a transmitted carrier reveals a 
> slight frequency "warble" of sorts.  PTO is clean and has the ground strap 
> modification, and this issue seems unrelated to the PTO, in that physical 
> movement or position of the PTO has no effect.  This is some type of minor 
> instability seemingly not related to anything mechanical.  Improves as rig 
> warms, but takes about an hour to clear.   Any suggestions on how to narrow 
> this to the (presumably) offending oscillator?  Seems like it would not show 
> up on a counter, but perhaps as "jiggle" on a scope?  I believe I read 
> somewhere about an analog switch IC that can cause frequency jumping.  The 
> frequency deviation is minor, but enough to roughen up received and 
> transmitted signals.  Rig is very early SR#.  General VFO stability is 
> acceptable.  Could this be normal for the old rig?  Thanks!
> Leon (N5LAZ).
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 "Warble" in received (and transmit) signal

[Jim Shorney]

The analog switch is a CMOS 4016 on the parent board. It's the only IC there,
hard to miss. They have been known to cause similar issues.

Replace C2108 on the Power Supply board. Even if it's not the problem. Just do
it. Don't forget to check your Fixed Passband alignment when you are done. 

If you haven't already, you may need to re-seat one or more of the daughter
boards. Oxidation in the Molex connectors can cause strange problems.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Tue, 11 Feb 2014 17:59:16 -0800 (PST), Leon Zebrick wrote:

>Tuning the "cal." signal and monitoring a transmitted carrier reveals a slight 
>frequency "warble" of sorts.  PTO is clean and has the ground strap 
>modification, and this issue seems unrelated to the PTO, in that physical 
>movement or position of the PTO has no effect.  This is some type of minor 
>instability seemingly not related to anything mechanical.  Improves as rig 
>warms, but takes about an hour to clear.   Any suggestions on how to narrow 
>this to the (presumably) offending oscillator?  Seems like it would not show 
>up on a counter, but perhaps as "jiggle" on a scope?  I believe I read 
>somewhere about an analog switch IC that can cause frequency jumping.  The 
>frequency deviation is minor, but enough to roughen up received and 
>transmitted signals.  Rig is very early SR#.  General VFO stability is 
>acceptable.  Could this be normal for the old rig?  Thanks!
>Leon (N5LAZ).


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 "Warble" in received (and transmit) signal

[Leon Zebrick]

Tuning the "cal." signal and monitoring a transmitted carrier reveals a slight 
frequency "warble" of sorts.  PTO is clean and has the ground strap 
modification, and this issue seems unrelated to the PTO, in that physical 
movement or position of the PTO has no effect.  This is some type of minor 
instability seemingly not related to anything mechanical.  Improves as rig 
warms, but takes about an hour to clear.   Any suggestions on how to narrow 
this to the (presumably) offending oscillator?  Seems like it would not show up 
on a counter, but perhaps as "jiggle" on a scope?  I believe I read somewhere 
about an analog switch IC that can cause frequency jumping.  The frequency 
deviation is minor, but enough to roughen up received and transmitted signals.  
Rig is very early SR#.  General VFO stability is acceptable.  Could this be 
normal for the old rig?  Thanks!
Leon (N5LAZ).___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Repair

[J Robert Witmer]

Hello all

Looking for recommendations for mid-Atlantic area TR-7 repairs?

Thanks & 73

Bob W3RW

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 off frequency

[Dave]

It has been a while since I asked for help with my TR-7 being off frequency and 
have since misplaced the names of all who responded to my request. All 
recommended  adjusting L1001 with WWV's signal. I finally got AROUNTUIT and it 
is finally back on frequency.

My heartfelt thanks to all who responded. 

I was a radio tech in the Air Force back in 1959-1963 and never worked in 
electronics again. My old thinker has never caught up to all of the new 
electronics. Hi!Hi!  I forgot a lot more than I now can remember.

Once again THANKS to all. I will continue to subscribe to the DRAKELIST.

Dave,
N5DBS

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 digital readout

[Jim Shorney]

The service manual states that you can jump into the alignment at any point if
you are confident that all of the adjustments preceding that point are correct,
but that the subsequent adjustments should all be performed in order through
the end to ensure proper operation. It may be that only the 40 MHz (section 3-3
 of the service manual) needs to be adjusted as Joe says, but at a minimum, I
would suggest the OP also check the +10V adjustment (section 3-1) to ensure
that it is where it is supposed to be. Don't adjust it if it's close, otherwise
you are committed to the rest. The 10V adjustment affects everything.

I usually do 3-1 through 3-6. Then if the radio isn't in bad shape, I will just
check 3-12 and 3-16 (and 3-15 if it seems justified) after that. If a frequency
alignment is all that's necessary, just 3-1 through 3-6 is sufficient. Due to
the ease with which the trimpots on the PS board in the front can be bumped out
of adjustment, IMO it is good practice to at least check 3-6 whenever the cover
is removed from the radio for any reason. Although frequency alignment does
require a fine touch, it isn't all that difficult if you have a sensitive and
accurate frequency counter and are handy with tools. The pots in 3-6 can even
be set "close enough for government work" without a frequency counter by
following a published Drake tech note that can be found several places on the
web. Free service manuals can also be found on the web, and some nice reprints
are available from online vendors if you don't have one.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 23 Dec 2012 20:28:43 -0500, Joe Pyles wrote:

>Adjust L1001 on the PBT/Reference board to put the 40 mhz oscillator 
>back on frequency. The 40 Mhz oscillator provides
>the 500 khz reference for the DR7 board. the 40 mhz crystal tends to 
>drift more than the other two crystals on the PBT/Reference board.
>
>73, Joe KC9LAD
>
>At 05:37 PM 12/23/2012, you wrote:
>>My TR-7 digital readout is off by 100 hz. Can anyone tell me how to 
>>correct it?
>>
>>I appreciate any and all help.
>>
>>James Wilson
>>N5DBS
>
>

--
The universe we're in will reach absolute zero in three hours. Safe is 
relative. - Idris, "The Doctor's Wife"



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 digital readout

[Joe Pyles]

Adjust L1001 on the PBT/Reference board to put the 40 mhz oscillator 
back on frequency. The 40 Mhz oscillator provides
the 500 khz reference for the DR7 board. the 40 mhz crystal tends to 
drift more than the other two crystals on the PBT/Reference board.


73, Joe KC9LAD

At 05:37 PM 12/23/2012, you wrote:
My TR-7 digital readout is off by 100 hz. Can anyone tell me how to 
correct it?


I appreciate any and all help.

James Wilson
N5DBS


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 digital readout

[Pat Sullivan]

Before or after normal drift? Does it settle down?

Regards, Pat
W6ABA

On Sun, Dec 23, 2012 at 2:37 PM, Dave  wrote:

> My TR-7 digital readout is off by 100 hz. Can anyone tell me how to
> correct it?
>
> I appreciate any and all help.
>
> James Wilson
> N5DBS
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 digital readout

[Dave]

My TR-7 digital readout is off by 100 hz. Can anyone tell me how to correct it?

I appreciate any and all help.

James Wilson
N5DBS

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7

[Jim Pruitt]

You did not say what DDS board is being used or how it is hooked up.  My first 
thought when I read this was to ask if you wired your dds vfo to get powr from 
the 10 volt receive line that goes to zero transmit so that DDS ends up being 
turned off during transmit.  If you have no VFO during transmit the display 
will do some strange things.
 
More details of your installation would be helpful.
 
Thank you.
 
Jim Pruitt


>>> On 12/10/2012 at 6:15 AM,  wrote:

I have a TR-7 that has the DDS board installed. It seems to me that it is 
working in split mode. It receives fine but when you key the MIc the digital 
display changes and it starts to act as if it is scanning.
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7

[Gary Poland]

Make sure the RCT  push button is not latched IN.___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7

[LeeCraner]

This is typical behavior when the circuit board contacts need to be  
cleaned.  Open it up and pull, then reseat every plug in board.  You  might 
also 
spray a wee bit of DeOxit on the board contacts.  Don't forget  to do this to 
the boards under the horizonal digital display board and the power  supply 
board in the front corner (right side when you're facing the front  panel).
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 12/10/2012 6:18:11 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,  
jobe.beck...@comcast.net writes:

I have a TR-7 that has the DDS board installed.  It seems to me that it is 
working in split mode. It receives fine but when you  key the MIc the 
digital display changes and it starts to act as if it is  scanning.


___
Drakelist  mailing  list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7

[Jobe Beckley]

I have a TR-7 that has the DDS board installed. It seems to me that it is 
working in split mode. It receives fine but when you key the MIc the digital 
display changes and it starts to act as if it is scanning.___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Thom LaCosta]

At 10:57 PM 8/8/2012, Jim Shorney wrote:


Thanks, Thom. I'll send it to you if I ever gat a round tuit. :)


ThanksI hope your round tuit locker is in better shape than mine!

73
Thom k3hrn


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Jim Shorney]

Thanks, Thom. I'll send it to you if I ever gat a round tuit. :)

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Wed, 08 Aug 2012 07:11:30 -0400, Thom LaCosta wrote:

>At 10:52 PM 8/7/2012, Jim Shorney wrote:
>
>>The version on the online forum has a note about this mod being for 
>>the Version
>>1 Digital Control board. I was unaware of the Version 2 board when I wrote
>>this, and have not worked out the mod for it because I have not had one at my
>>disposal.
>
>If you do get one and write up the mod, I'll be mmore than happy to 
>post it on the web site.
>
>73
>Thom k3hrn
>
>
>___
>Drakelist mailing list
>Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Thom LaCosta]

At 10:52 PM 8/7/2012, Jim Shorney wrote:

The version on the online forum has a note about this mod being for 
the Version

1 Digital Control board. I was unaware of the Version 2 board when I wrote
this, and have not worked out the mod for it because I have not had one at my
disposal.


If you do get one and write up the mod, I'll be mmore than happy to 
post it on the web site.


73
Thom k3hrn


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Jim Shorney]

That would be it.

The version on the online forum has a note about this mod being for the Version
1 Digital Control board. I was unaware of the Version 2 board when I wrote
this, and have not worked out the mod for it because I have not had one at my
disposal.

On Tue, 07 Aug 2012 08:21:31 -0700, Jim Pruitt wrote:

>And the answer was...?
> 
>Would that be at:
>http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg09805.html ?
>
 On 8/6/2012 at 3:43 PM,  wrote:
>
>
>This was just answered on the Yahoo DrakeRadio forum. The info is
>published in
>the Drakelist Online Forum.
>
>73
>
>-Jim
>NU0C
>
>
>On Mon, 6 Aug 2012 11:35:15 -0700 (PDT), Allen Bush wrote:
>
>>Sometime ago someone posted information about a "better" out of band
>transmit modification that was a bit more complex than just cutting one
>trace on the motherboard.  I believe it still allowed the out of lock
>detector to work to stop unexpected off frequency transmissions.  I
>can't seem to find the information in the archives.  Can anyone help me
>with this.  I"ve got a "new" TR-7A open on the bench and would like to
>do the mod while it is opened up getting a few filters added.
>> 
>>Allen Bush, W0OUU
>
>--
>“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a 
>stick.” –
>The Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)
>
>
>
>___
>Drakelist mailing list
>Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>
>


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Jim Pruitt]

And the answer was...?
 
Would that be at:
http://www.mail-archive.com/drakelist@zerobeat.net/msg09805.html ?

>>> On 8/6/2012 at 3:43 PM,  wrote:


This was just answered on the Yahoo DrakeRadio forum. The info is
published in
the Drakelist Online Forum.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Mon, 6 Aug 2012 11:35:15 -0700 (PDT), Allen Bush wrote:

>Sometime ago someone posted information about a "better" out of band
transmit modification that was a bit more complex than just cutting one
trace on the motherboard.  I believe it still allowed the out of lock
detector to work to stop unexpected off frequency transmissions.  I
can't seem to find the information in the archives.  Can anyone help me
with this.  I"ve got a "new" TR-7A open on the bench and would like to
do the mod while it is opened up getting a few filters added.
> 
>Allen Bush, W0OUU

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” –
The Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Jim Shorney]

This was just answered on the Yahoo DrakeRadio forum. The info is published in
the Drakelist Online Forum.

73

-Jim
NU0C


On Mon, 6 Aug 2012 11:35:15 -0700 (PDT), Allen Bush wrote:

>Sometime ago someone posted information about a "better" out of band transmit 
>modification that was a bit more complex than just cutting one trace on the 
>motherboard.  I believe it still allowed the out of lock detector to work to 
>stop unexpected off frequency transmissions.  I can't seem to find the 
>information in the archives.  Can anyone help me with this.  I"ve got a "new" 
>TR-7A open on the bench and would like to do the mod while it is opened up 
>getting a few filters added.
> 
>Allen Bush, W0OUU

--
“There’s something out of place – let’s go and poke it with a stick.” – The 
Doctor (Amy’s Choice episode)



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 all freq transmit mod

[Allen Bush]

Sometime ago someone posted information about a "better" out of band transmit 
modification that was a bit more complex than just cutting one trace on the 
motherboard.  I believe it still allowed the out of lock detector to work to 
stop unexpected off frequency transmissions.  I can't seem to find the 
information in the archives.  Can anyone help me with this.  I"ve got a "new" 
TR-7A open on the bench and would like to do the mod while it is opened up 
getting a few filters added.
 
Allen Bush, W0OUU___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Jim Shorney]

I suppose you could do that. I've had very few problems with Tants of that era
- definitely less than electrolytics. I think in some cases there may have been
some underestimation of their tolerance for surges (recalling early Fosgate car
stereo amps that were notorious for popping Tants in the power supply section).
It bothered me more that there were a couple of them in the RX audio path, but
that's a different issue. They've been running this long without issues, so
lacking a documented deterioration mode like electrolytics I choose to leave
well enough alone That filter electro in the DC-DC converter is another story.
It can cause some strange issues when failing, and I consider it a mandatory
replacement.

A lot of Drakes have been running a lot of years with those Tantalums. To each
his own.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Fri, 29 Jun 2012 20:21:12 -0700, Dennis Monticelli wrote:

>Tantalums of that era are not as reliable as their modern
>equilvalents.  When a tanalum fails it usually shorts.  Modern
>tantalums have built in fuses to limit the fireworks should a failure
>occur.  High quality test equipment from the TR-7 era or earlier often
>have issues with tantalums and I know of people that will routinely
>replace all of them once they are into the instrument.  Owners of
>KWM-380's will do the same thing.
>
>Dennis AE6C
>
>On 6/29/12, Brian Koontz  wrote:
>> On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 03:56:26PM -0500, Jim Shorney wrote:
>>> You may find this of interest. A VERY worthwhile upgrade, highly
>>> recommended:
>>>
>>> http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark5
>>>
>>> Also, replace the electrolytic cap(s) while you are working on the PS
>>> board.
>>> You will be glad you did. That may be the source of your +25 problem
>>> anyway.
>>> Any Tantalums can be left as is, they should be OK.
>>
>> I had a tantalum cap on my PS literally explode...I was very
>> surprised, figured that was a rare event.  But not rare enough to
>> replace all of them?  (I went ahead and did anyways...)
>>
>>   --Brian/WA3ITE
>>
>> ___
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>>


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Dennis Monticelli]

Tantalums of that era are not as reliable as their modern
equilvalents.  When a tanalum fails it usually shorts.  Modern
tantalums have built in fuses to limit the fireworks should a failure
occur.  High quality test equipment from the TR-7 era or earlier often
have issues with tantalums and I know of people that will routinely
replace all of them once they are into the instrument.  Owners of
KWM-380's will do the same thing.

Dennis AE6C

On 6/29/12, Brian Koontz  wrote:
> On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 03:56:26PM -0500, Jim Shorney wrote:
>> You may find this of interest. A VERY worthwhile upgrade, highly
>> recommended:
>>
>> http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark5
>>
>> Also, replace the electrolytic cap(s) while you are working on the PS
>> board.
>> You will be glad you did. That may be the source of your +25 problem
>> anyway.
>> Any Tantalums can be left as is, they should be OK.
>
> I had a tantalum cap on my PS literally explode...I was very
> surprised, figured that was a rare event.  But not rare enough to
> replace all of them?  (I went ahead and did anyways...)
>
>   --Brian/WA3ITE
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 29 Jun 2012 16:12:23 -0500, Brian Koontz wrote:

>
>I had a tantalum cap on my PS literally explode...I was very
>surprised, figured that was a rare event.  But not rare enough to
>replace all of them?  (I went ahead and did anyways...)

Tantalums can fail quite dramatically, they are especially sensitive to surges
beyond ratings. The rule of thumb that I have come to use is that if they
appear physically intact, they are good.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Brian Koontz]

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 03:56:26PM -0500, Jim Shorney wrote:
> You may find this of interest. A VERY worthwhile upgrade, highly recommended:
> 
> http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark5
> 
> Also, replace the electrolytic cap(s) while you are working on the PS board.
> You will be glad you did. That may be the source of your +25 problem anyway.
> Any Tantalums can be left as is, they should be OK.

I had a tantalum cap on my PS literally explode...I was very
surprised, figured that was a rare event.  But not rare enough to
replace all of them?  (I went ahead and did anyways...)

  --Brian/WA3ITE

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Jim Shorney]

You may find this of interest. A VERY worthwhile upgrade, highly recommended:

http://members.ziggo.nl/cmulder/drake.htm#bookmark5

Also, replace the electrolytic cap(s) while you are working on the PS board.
You will be glad you did. That may be the source of your +25 problem anyway.
Any Tantalums can be left as is, they should be OK.

73

-Jim
NU0C



On Fri, 29 Jun 2012 13:57:18 -0400, Mike Williams wrote:

>While troubleshooting a VCO power supply problem,  R2103, the 1K pot on the PS 
>board fell off!  Just what I needed while trying to get this radio going 
>again.  I know this is an old topic, but does anyone know where to find a 
>replacement that will fit on the board, or perhaps someone has one they will 
>part with.  Any assistance  is certainly appreciated.  
>
>PS:  the +25 Vdc rail for the vco is reading 17 volts so I suspect the problem 
>is with the  PS board or something loading down the rail.
>
>Thanks for any assistance,
>
>Mike  W4DL


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 PS Board; need a part!

[Mike Williams]

While troubleshooting a VCO power supply problem,  R2103, the 1K pot on the PS 
board fell off!  Just what I needed while trying to get this radio going again. 
 I know this is an old topic, but does anyone know where to find a replacement 
that will fit on the board, or perhaps someone has one they will part with.  
Any assistance  is certainly appreciated.  

PS:  the +25 Vdc rail for the vco is reading 17 volts so I suspect the problem 
is with the  PS board or something loading down the rail.

Thanks for any assistance,

Mike  W4DL___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 vco unlocks

[Mike Williams]

I've encountered a new issue with my TR-7.  On 20 meters only,  as I turn the 
PTO and reach 14.250, the vco seems to unlock as the DR-7 display stops 
increasing in frequency and reverses or drifts down 20 or 30 kHz.  Below 14.250 
all works normally.  I pulled the vco board and reseated it and thought I had 
it, until the radio warmed up 10 minutes and then the same thing happened.  I 
had the radio parked on 14.350 and it started to drift again after a short warm 
up period.  Could be a soft bit in a counter perhaps due to one of the ECL 
chips. I have had trouble with these in the past.  Any suggestions would be 
helpful;  PS where exactly is the test point on the vco board?

Thanks,

Mike W4DL___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Completely Dead (No lights or sounds...)

[LeeCraner]

Richard,
 
Was your issue ever resolved?  If so, resolution?
 
73
Lee WB6SSW
 
 
In a message dated 5/20/2012 1:48:48 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
richardvk...@gmail.com writes:

My TR-7  is completely dead.  I've carefully checked the power
supply ... and  the problem is not there.  13.5 volts is getting through
to the  rig.  No lights or display come on or anything.  No sound  from
the speaker.  Reading Ronald's (WB4HFN) article on "Inside the  Drake
TR-7 transceiver", he suggests that I try the 5 amp fuse which  is
underneath the top cover on the rig at the front.  Replacement  is
possible for the double-jointed it seems. It is located  almost
underneath the digital display board.

Does this fuse fail  frequently?  Is it a slow-blo type ... or just a
regular auto-type  fuse (3AG)?  Is there anything to be gained by upping
it to 7.5A or  even 10A?


Many thanks for your  help

73

Richard
VK1RJ


-- 
--
Eraina &  Richard Jenkins
Canberra
'richardirena' on skype ... if at home  ...
+

___
Drakelist  mailing  list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Completely Dead (No lights or sounds...)

[Jim Shorney]

On Sun, 20 May 2012 12:18:33 -0500, Brian Koontz wrote:

>
>Look at the small transformer at the lower left of the rig.  I had a
>dead rig too, and part of the ferrite core had fallen off to the
>bottom of the unit.  Glued it all back together (don't forget the
>little white wire that wraps around the transformer, it's important
>for some reason I forget now), and rig worked again.


Transformer core malfunction does not (or, should not) produce a completely
dead radio as described. What this causes is loss of +24 and -5 volts, which
causes a host of other problems, but the rig still lights up.

73

-Jim
NU0C


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Completely Dead (No lights or sounds...)

[Brian Koontz]

On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 11:54:44AM -0500, Brian Koontz wrote:
> On Sun, May 20, 2012 at 06:47:42PM +1000, Eraina & Richard Jenkins wrote:
> > My TR-7 is completely dead.  I've carefully checked the power
> > supply ... and the problem is not there.  13.5 volts is getting through
> > to the rig.  No lights or display come on or anything.  No sound from
> > the speaker.  Reading Ronald's (WB4HFN) article on "Inside the Drake
> > TR-7 transceiver", he suggests that I try the 5 amp fuse which is
> > underneath the top cover on the rig at the front.  Replacement is
> > possible for the double-jointed it seems. It is located almost
> > underneath the digital display board.

Look at the small transformer at the lower left of the rig.  I had a
dead rig too, and part of the ferrite core had fallen off to the
bottom of the unit.  Glued it all back together (don't forget the
little white wire that wraps around the transformer, it's important
for some reason I forget now), and rig worked again.

  --Brian

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Completely Dead (No lights or sounds...)

[Jim Shorney]

Yes, that fuse is your first thing to check. Even a nanosecond short on the 12v
rail will instantly take out that fuse. They can also fail from years of
stress, or there could be oxidation on the fuse holder. It's not quite as hard
to change as that, but it does require some dexterity. I usually pop it out
with a screwdriver or needlenose pliers (whatever's handy) and let it fall to
the bottom of the rig, then turn the rig over. Disconnect the external power
supply from the radio first, use an exact replacement only (do not overfuse!),
and don't bump those pesky passband adjustment pots on the power supply board.

If the new fuse blows, you have a problem elsewhere.

73

-Jim
NU0C

On Sun, 20 May 2012 18:47:42 +1000, Eraina & Richard Jenkins wrote:

>My TR-7 is completely dead.  I've carefully checked the power
>supply ... and the problem is not there.  13.5 volts is getting through
>to the rig.  No lights or display come on or anything.  No sound from
>the speaker.  Reading Ronald's (WB4HFN) article on "Inside the Drake
>TR-7 transceiver", he suggests that I try the 5 amp fuse which is
>underneath the top cover on the rig at the front.  Replacement is
>possible for the double-jointed it seems. It is located almost
>underneath the digital display board.
>
>Does this fuse fail frequently?  Is it a slow-blo type ... or just a
>regular auto-type fuse (3AG)?  Is there anything to be gained by upping
>it to 7.5A or even 10A?
>
>
>Many thanks for your help
>
>73
>
>Richard
>VK1RJ
>
>
>-- 
>--
>Eraina & Richard Jenkins
>Canberra
>'richardirena' on skype ... if at home ...
>+
>
>___
>Drakelist mailing list
>Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Completely Dead (No lights or sounds...)

[Eraina & Richard Jenkins]

My TR-7 is completely dead.  I've carefully checked the power
supply ... and the problem is not there.  13.5 volts is getting through
to the rig.  No lights or display come on or anything.  No sound from
the speaker.  Reading Ronald's (WB4HFN) article on "Inside the Drake
TR-7 transceiver", he suggests that I try the 5 amp fuse which is
underneath the top cover on the rig at the front.  Replacement is
possible for the double-jointed it seems. It is located almost
underneath the digital display board.

Does this fuse fail frequently?  Is it a slow-blo type ... or just a
regular auto-type fuse (3AG)?  Is there anything to be gained by upping
it to 7.5A or even 10A?


Many thanks for your help

73

Richard
VK1RJ


-- 
--
Eraina & Richard Jenkins
Canberra
'richardirena' on skype ... if at home ...
+

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Extender Boards

[Ernie Howard]

Pete,

I have a set of the TR-7 extender boards for sale. I got them from 
another ham a couple years back when I was working on some TR7s.


This appears to be the same 13 board "kit" and digital jumper board that 
are shown on the wb4hfn web site:

http://www.wb4hfn.com/Services/W7AVK/tr7ext2.htm

They are in like new condition.

I will sell them for $55 including shipping (via Priority mail flat rate 
box).


Ernie W8EH



--

Message: 2
Date: Tue, 17 Jan 2012 18:53:46 -0800
From: "Pete Juliano"
To:
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Extender Boards
Message-ID:
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

I have been trying to locate some extender boards for my TR-7. I understood 
that Bob W7AVK had made a run of boards. I have been unsuccessful in making any 
contact with Bob.

Are there any other known sources or are the boards on the unobtanium list.

73's Pete N6QW



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Extender Boards

[Garey Barrell]

Pete -

No, Bob is the source.  I just saw a message from him the other day, so he is 
about.

His e-mail and phone are at



73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Pete Juliano wrote:
I have been trying to locate some extender boards for my TR-7. I understood that Bob W7AVK had 
made a run of boards. I have been unsuccessful in making any contact with Bob.

Are there any other known sources or are the boards on the unobtanium list.
73's Pete N6QW


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Extender Boards

[Pete Juliano]

I have been trying to locate some extender boards for my TR-7. I understood 
that Bob W7AVK had made a run of boards. I have been unsuccessful in making any 
contact with Bob. 

Are there any other known sources or are the boards on the unobtanium list.

73's Pete N6QW___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Relay

[Garey Barrell]

Lee -

I am receiving no emails from you.  We must have a spam filter that has popped 
up between us.

Try k4...@verizon.net

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



K9sqg wrote:

Hi Evan,
Lee here...
Can you contact Garey Barrell K4OAH and see if he is getting e-mails
from me through the list AND direct...
Seems like I have sent him several e-mails in the last few days with no
response...

Thanks,
Lee, KC9CDT



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Relay

[Garey Barrell]

Pete -

Couple of factors make this relay suitable...

1.  150W into 50 ohms is only about 1.7A, so no problem there.

2.  The Drake 'yank-in' VOX system 'probably' closes the contacts before any RF gets to them, 
limiting the 'make'.


3.  The more damaging 'break' comes after the RF is long gone thanks to VOX delay.  Unless someone 
is running one of the 'chirp-chirp' style digital signals and has the VOX to minimum.


The "Y" contacts are rated at 100 mA minimum, 2A "typical", and 3A 'maximum'.  I have yet to come 
across damaged antenna switching contacts in any Drake transmitter that hadn't been abused.  
(Transmitting for 'a while' into a wrong or NO antenna, with multiple key and unkey cycles.)


The '+13.6 VDC' Transmit bus drives several 10 uF tantalum caps on various boards.  Dunno if that is 
causing relay problems or not.  Also no idea how much current those contacts are having to handle.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Pete Juliano wrote:

Hi Garey,
Thanks for your response -- as usual really excellent information. I will need to do more research 
as the Y types. The ones in the Y series that RF Parts have the contacts are only good for 2 amps 
-- I would think you need more than a 2 amp contact rating to handle the RF which is switched 
through that relay. But then again --duty cycle versus constant current.
As to why the replacing the Varley . I am tracking down an intermittent problem with my TR-7 and 
in the event the TR relay is the problem then I would be looking for a replacement or substitute.
The problem is that every so often when you key the microphone or hit the key you will hear the 
relay click but no output. Now the person I bought the TR-7 from said he had that problem --and in 
fact thought it was a problem on the pre--driver board and replaced the MPS-H20 -- only that was 
not the problem as occasionally there would not be 13.6 VDC applied to the pre-driver coincident 
with the non-keying. The 13.6 VDC is routed through that relay via pins 14, 15 and 16.  So he 
thought it was crudded contacts on the socket and so he pulled the relay and sprayed de-oxit in 
the relay socket and that seemed to solved the problem. I don't believe he opened up the relay to 
look at the individual contacts.
I searched the archives and saw a related problem which was the VCO going out of lock -- but I 
haven't been specifically looking for that condition. I thought I would start with the easier to 
work issues (clean a relay versus align a VCO)
I haven't opened the TR-7 as yet and pulled the relay -- but that is the next step. My research 
was to see what do I do next in the event that is the problem.

Thanks again for the excellent information.
73's
Pete N6QW


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 TR Relay

[Garey Barrell]

Pete -

Why are you replacing the Varley?

I would suggest verifying that the terminal layout is identical, it 'almost' 
certainly is.

Rather than the 'W' contact material, I would suggest the 'Y' used by Drake.  The 'W' material 
(Silver Cadmium Oxide) is rated at 500 mA _minimum_, 7.5A maximum.  Obviously MOST of the contacts 
in the TR-7 relay are carrying considerably less than 500 mA.  The 'Y' material (Fine Silver) is 
rated at 100 mA minimum and 3A maximum.


Lower current capabilities require bifurcated contacts, rather than the simple button contacts.  'Z' 
material is Fine Silver, but with bifurcated contacts and is rated at 1mA to 2A.
"Dry" circuit contacts ('P') are gold over silver, bifurcated, and are rated for 0mA - 3A.  These 
are more expensive and harder to find.  The gold would probably burn off after the first VOX, at 
least on the antenna contacts.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Pete Juliano wrote:
I am looking for an alternate to the TR relay in my TR-7 and wonder if anyone has suggested 
substitutes. As best as I can tell the OEM part was supplied by Varley and the P/N is a VP4CAB/12 
V185.
The Varleys are made in the UK. I believe this relay is a General Purpose type relay classed as 4 
Changeovers, DIN21, USA "C". I could tell exactly but I think the contacts maybe 5 amps or less.
That said I did look at the P&B relays and RF Parts sells the R10E1W4V185 for about $20. The 
contact arrangement is the same, the coil resistance is the same (185 Ohms) and the relay contacts 
at 7.5 amps should  handle 150 watts.
The mating socket is the 27E126 available from Mouser as is the hold down spring which is the 
20C250. This is the same socket and spring that are used for the substitute T4XB plug in TR Relay.
So am I off in the weeds with the P&B substitute and has someone identified an exact sub for the 
Varley relay.

73's
Pete N6QW


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 TR Relay

[Pete Juliano]

I am looking for an alternate to the TR relay in my TR-7 and wonder if anyone 
has suggested substitutes. As best as I can tell the OEM part was supplied by 
Varley and the P/N is a VP4CAB/12 V185.

The Varleys are made in the UK. I believe this relay is a General Purpose type 
relay classed as 4 Changeovers, DIN21, USA "C". I could tell exactly but I 
think the contacts maybe 5 amps or less. 

That said I did look at the P&B relays and RF Parts sells the R10E1W4V185 for 
about $20. The contact arrangement is the same, the coil resistance is the same 
(185 Ohms) and the relay contacts at 7.5 amps should  handle 150 watts. 

The mating socket is the 27E126 available from Mouser as is the hold down 
spring which is the 20C250. This is the same socket and spring that are used 
for the substitute T4XB plug in TR Relay. 

So am I off in the weeds with the P&B substitute and has someone identified an 
exact sub for the Varley relay.

73's
Pete N6QW___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Board & Parts

[Pete Juliano]

These must be on the unobtanium list but here goes anyway.

Please reply direct to jessyst...@broadstripe.net

1) Any one have a working 2nd IF and Audio Board for a TR-7, the later version 
with the MC1496 for the product detector, they would like to exchange for . 
The one currently listed on FleaBay is  Version 1 without the MC1496. 

2) The MATING 8 pin plug that is on the RV-7 and plugs into the TR-7. There is 
an item on FleaBay for all of the plugs --but they are the ones that are 
mounted on the TR-7 -- I need the one such as found on the RV-7 interface cable 
that would plug into the back of the TR-7. I am told there is a Molex plug that 
would substitute for this and that would work but I have no information --- so 
if any one knows that P/N that would be most appreciated 

Hopefully some person or person has these items and could use a little .

73's
Pete N6QW___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7

[Pete Juliano]

 Any one thinking of selling their TR-7?

Please respond direct and let me know the condition and price? Units requiring 
repair are OK

Thanks & 73's

Pete N6QW
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Bob Fish]

Thanks Joe, 
Mouser has them for a buck and a half. That's more like it.

Bob K6GGO

Sent from my iPad

On Dec 20, 2011, at 4:15 PM, Joe Pyles  wrote:

> again, 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Joe Pyles]

I use NTE229 to replace the MPSH20 on the predriver board and they work fine.

73, Joe KC9LAD

At 06:57 PM 12/20/2011, you wrote:
Sorry about that, I sent the e-mail before I was done typing. Does 
anyone have source for an MPS-H20. It looks like they aren't 
available. I found a reference to it on the Drake mods
document. The guy says he replaces them with MRF237 because it can 
handle a little extra power. Apparently, he thinks the TO-92 package 
was border line undersized for .3 watts.
Maybe that's why mine is going south (I've been running digital 
modes). I found these MRF237s on Ebay for 8 bucks (stick'em up). 
I'll pay it if I have to. Any thoughts?



Bob  K6GGO

Well, it seems that the first transistor on the driver board is the 
culprit. Or, at least, when the transmitter fails, that is where 
the RF stops. It is a Motorola MPS-H20

I found the schematic on Ron's site. Thanks Lee.

Bob  K6GGO

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I thought to do was 
re-seat the boards and I did. Well, I didn't re-seat the ones 
that were hidden under
the display board (DR-7).  I'll take it apart and re-seat them if 
I have to, but, I think I have isolated the problem to the 
pre-driver board and it
doesn't plug into anything. It is bolted to a heatsink next to 
the PA. When it is in a failed condition, I have RF going into, 
but not out of, the pre-driver board.


Thanks for the offer, but I already have a set of extender boards.

I will find the problem eventually , I just need a schematic. I 
will take another look at Ron's site.


Thanks again,

Bob  K6GGO






___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Robert Fish]

Sorry about that, I sent the e-mail before I was done typing. Does 
anyone have source for an MPS-H20. It looks like they aren't available. 
I found a reference to it on the Drake mods
document. The guy says he replaces them with MRF237 because it can 
handle a little extra power. Apparently, he thinks the TO-92 package was 
border line undersized for .3 watts.
Maybe that's why mine is going south (I've been running digital modes). 
I found these MRF237s on Ebay for 8 bucks (stick'em up). I'll pay it if 
I have to. Any thoughts?



Bob  K6GGO

Well, it seems that the first transistor on the driver board is the 
culprit. Or, at least, when the transmitter fails, that is where the 
RF stops. It is a Motorola MPS-H20

I found the schematic on Ron's site. Thanks Lee.

Bob  K6GGO

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I thought to do was re-seat 
the boards and I did. Well, I didn't re-seat the ones that were 
hidden under
the display board (DR-7).  I'll take it apart and re-seat them if I 
have to, but, I think I have isolated the problem to the pre-driver 
board and it
doesn't plug into anything. It is bolted to a heatsink next to the 
PA. When it is in a failed condition, I have RF going into, but not 
out of, the pre-driver board.


Thanks for the offer, but I already have a set of extender boards.

I will find the problem eventually , I just need a schematic. I will 
take another look at Ron's site.


Thanks again,

Bob  K6GGO







___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Robert Fish]

Well, it seems that the first transistor on the driver board is the 
culprit. Or, at least, when the transmitter fails, that is where the RF 
stops. It is a Motorola MPS-H20

I found the schematic on Ron's site. Thanks Lee.

Bob  K6GGO

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I thought to do was re-seat 
the boards and I did. Well, I didn't re-seat the ones that were 
hidden under
the display board (DR-7).  I'll take it apart and re-seat them if I 
have to, but, I think I have isolated the problem to the pre-driver 
board and it
doesn't plug into anything. It is bolted to a heatsink next to the 
PA. When it is in a failed condition, I have RF going into, but not 
out of, the pre-driver board.


Thanks for the offer, but I already have a set of extender boards.

I will find the problem eventually , I just need a schematic. I will 
take another look at Ron's site.


Thanks again,

Bob  K6GGO







___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Robert Fish]

I found the schematic on Ron's site. Thanks Lee.

Bob  K6GGO

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I thought to do was re-seat 
the boards and I did. Well, I didn't re-seat the ones that were hidden 
under
the display board (DR-7).  I'll take it apart and re-seat them if I 
have to, but, I think I have isolated the problem to the pre-driver 
board and it
doesn't plug into anything. It is bolted to a heatsink next to the PA. 
When it is in a failed condition, I have RF going into, but not out 
of, the pre-driver board.


Thanks for the offer, but I already have a set of extender boards.

I will find the problem eventually , I just need a schematic. I will 
take another look at Ron's site.


Thanks again,

Bob  K6GGO







___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Robert Fish]

Hi Guys,
Thanks for the replies. The first thing I thought to do was re-seat the 
boards and I did. Well, I didn't re-seat the ones that were hidden under
the display board (DR-7).  I'll take it apart and re-seat them if I have 
to, but, I think I have isolated the problem to the pre-driver board and it
doesn't plug into anything. It is bolted to a heatsink next to the PA. 
When it is in a failed condition, I have RF going into, but not out of, 
the pre-driver board.


Thanks for the offer, but I already have a set of extender boards.

I will find the problem eventually , I just need a schematic. I will 
take another look at Ron's site.


Thanks again,

Bob  K6GGO



Hi Bob:

Before jumping right to looking for a flaky component, have you done 
the requisite re-seating of the board?  Deoxit on the edge connector, 
and relay cleaning?


FWIW

Curt
KU8L


On 12/20/2011 3:15 PM, Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,
I have a two part question. I noticed a few weeks ago that, on 
occasion, my TR-7 would not transmit when keyed. If I unkey and then 
key again, it would transmit.
I noticed when running digital modes, which I do using VOX for keying 
the transmitter. Well, the last few days it has become more frequent. 
It also happens in cw.
If I key the transmitter 10 times, maybe 3 or 4 times Ill get no RF 
out. I traced the problem to the pre-driver board. I always have RF 
in, but when it fails there is no RF going to the PA.
Even though I have an early TR-7, I have the later version of the 
driver board. Unfortunately, I only have the schematic for the early 
version in my service manual.


Where can I get a schematic for the later pre-driver board?

Any idea what is happening here? It shouldn't be too much trouble to 
figure out which component is going flakey, if I can get a print for 
the newer board.


Thanks in advance,

Bob  K6GGO

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[J. Steven Cochrane]

Before you start replacing parts clean the Band Switch contacts and reseat 
the boards. That usually fixes it for another year.

Steve

J. Steven Cochrane W7JSC


- Original Message - 
From: "Robert Fish" 
To: 
Sent: Tuesday, December 20, 2011 1:15 PM
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues


> Hi Guys,
> I have a two part question. I noticed a few weeks ago that, on occasion,
> my TR-7 would not transmit when keyed. If I unkey and then key again, it
> would transmit.
> I noticed when running digital modes, which I do using VOX for keying
> the transmitter. Well, the last few days it has become more frequent. It
> also happens in cw.
> If I key the transmitter 10 times, maybe 3 or 4 times Ill get no RF out.
> I traced the problem to the pre-driver board. I always have RF in, but
> when it fails there is no RF going to the PA.
> Even though I have an early TR-7, I have the later version of the driver
> board. Unfortunately, I only have the schematic for the early version in
> my service manual.
>
> Where can I get a schematic for the later pre-driver board?
>
> Any idea what is happening here? It shouldn't be too much trouble to
> figure out which component is going flakey, if I can get a print for the
> newer board.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Bob  K6GGO
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Curt]

Hi Bob:

Before jumping right to looking for a flaky component, have you done the 
requisite re-seating of the board?  Deoxit on the edge connector, and 
relay cleaning?


FWIW

Curt
KU8L


On 12/20/2011 3:15 PM, Robert Fish wrote:

Hi Guys,
I have a two part question. I noticed a few weeks ago that, on 
occasion, my TR-7 would not transmit when keyed. If I unkey and then 
key again, it would transmit.
I noticed when running digital modes, which I do using VOX for keying 
the transmitter. Well, the last few days it has become more frequent. 
It also happens in cw.
If I key the transmitter 10 times, maybe 3 or 4 times Ill get no RF 
out. I traced the problem to the pre-driver board. I always have RF 
in, but when it fails there is no RF going to the PA.
Even though I have an early TR-7, I have the later version of the 
driver board. Unfortunately, I only have the schematic for the early 
version in my service manual.


Where can I get a schematic for the later pre-driver board?

Any idea what is happening here? It shouldn't be too much trouble to 
figure out which component is going flakey, if I can get a print for 
the newer board.


Thanks in advance,

Bob  K6GGO

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Transmit issues

[Robert Fish]

Hi Guys,
I have a two part question. I noticed a few weeks ago that, on occasion, 
my TR-7 would not transmit when keyed. If I unkey and then key again, it 
would transmit.
I noticed when running digital modes, which I do using VOX for keying 
the transmitter. Well, the last few days it has become more frequent. It 
also happens in cw.
If I key the transmitter 10 times, maybe 3 or 4 times Ill get no RF out. 
I traced the problem to the pre-driver board. I always have RF in, but 
when it fails there is no RF going to the PA.
Even though I have an early TR-7, I have the later version of the driver 
board. Unfortunately, I only have the schematic for the early version in 
my service manual.


Where can I get a schematic for the later pre-driver board?

Any idea what is happening here? It shouldn't be too much trouble to 
figure out which component is going flakey, if I can get a print for the 
newer board.


Thanks in advance,

Bob  K6GGO

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Help!

[RB]

Hello from Australia.  I am new to this group so apologies if the format of 
this message is wrong

Just got a TR-7, and it the best traditions of on-line shopping it's arrived 
faulty.

When powered on, the panel lights come on but not other sign of activity.

It is drawing close to 5 amps at 13.8 Volts.

So far I have disconnected the PA power line, and taken every possible board 
out of its socket (incase of a shorted tantalum etc) with no luck.

The power supply board (the one near the front right of the radio) has a pair 
of transistors coming off it which get hot very quickly.

Anyone got any ideas ? Im hoping this is maybe a common fault.

I think the radio has been stored idle for many years, I dont know anymore of 
its history

Thanks

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Curt Nixon]

I'm sure you are correct Jim...but I'm a short timer!

Curt

On 11/17/2011 8:46 PM, Jim Shorney wrote:

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 09:48:33 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:


I like the material of your CD washer, but the od is too big to fit through the 
front bezel of the 7
Line, and of course not nearly long enough.


The problem that I see with foam is that it tends to decay into goo after a
time. Given the orignal application, I can't imagine this type of foam is
designed for long lifetime.

I've used the automotive hose method, it works. And given the punishment this
type of hose is designed to take, I am quite sure it will last a lot longer
than I will.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he will 
learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Jim Shorney]

On Thu, 17 Nov 2011 09:48:33 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:

>I like the material of your CD washer, but the od is too big to fit through 
>the front bezel of the 7 
>Line, and of course not nearly long enough.


The problem that I see with foam is that it tends to decay into goo after a
time. Given the orignal application, I can't imagine this type of foam is
designed for long lifetime.

I've used the automotive hose method, it works. And given the punishment this
type of hose is designed to take, I am quite sure it will last a lot longer
than I will.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7

[Garey Barrell]

Bill -

Does the radio move, or just the display?

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Billy Loyd wrote:
I have a Drake TR-7 and every now and then it will move 1000kc...In other words when on 3.700 it 
will change to 2.700...It does not last long but does it every so oftenAnyone have an idea 
where to start lookingThe voltege regulator pot is set at 10 voltsThats as far as I have 
checkedTnx in advance for the help.

de BillKY4U


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7

[Billy Loyd]

I have a Drake TR-7 and every now and then it will move 1000kc...In other words 
when on 3.700 it will change to 2.700...It does not last long but does it every 
so oftenAnyone have an idea where to start lookingThe voltege regulator 
pot is set at 10 voltsThats as far as I have checkedTnx in advance for 
the help.
de BillKY4U___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Garey Barrell]

The 7's are like the C-Line.  I've seen B-Lines with the wave washer and with the tubing.  I 'think' 
the B-Line was the same as the "A" from the factory, but the tubing method works.  The wave washer 
dug pretty deep grooves in the back of the dial skirt, and was 'gritty' to adjust.


The circlip IS a very brittle, HARD material.  I use circlip pliers, and all you have to do is take 
the pressure off (no visible gap between clip and shaft) just enough to allow you to slide it 
along.  I broke the first one many years ago by being too aggressive, and was never able to find a 
replacement.  There are plenty of the same size available, but not springy enough to hold against 
the dial pressure.


The B knob and skirt were a very popular item when they came out.  The slanted skirt is SOOO much 
better (easier to see!) in normal desk lighting.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Steve Wedge wrote:

Apparently the 7's are different from the 3's and 4's.

While we're on the dial skirt topic, I've also found that, if you've busted 
that brittle circlip that's on the tuning shaft (or if it has moved; really - 
you do not want to try to spread it to move it back - DAMHIKT) of the B-Line 
that you can stack 1/4 x 20 washers on there until you get the proper spacing 
for the wave washer and dial skirt.

That's also the way you can get a B knob and skirt onto a T-4X so it sorta 
matches an R-4B.

So now I'm curious: was the dial skirt assembly significantly different, or did 
Drake merely stop using the wave washers and switch to the tubing?

Enjoy Those Drakes...

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-

From: Curt Nixon
Sent: Nov 17, 2011 7:12 AM
To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

Isn't the "clutch washer between the knob and the skirt?

Perhaps I'm thinking of the 3 and 4 series.

Curt

On 11/16/2011 10:17 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

Allen -

There are several choices.  The original is surgical rubber tubing,
which is a translucent amber colored rubber tubing.  It's very soft
and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' material.  Unfortunately
after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color.  It is difficult
to find unless you have a friend who works in a hospital.  If you have
a surgical supply store they will often cut off a foot or so for you,
which is a lifetime supply.

Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black
rubber, fabric reinforced tubing available at auto supply stores.
Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell you a foot cheaply.

Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels.
Again, you need a foot or less!

ALL of the above are 3/8" id x 5/8" od.  You need to cut a piece about
a half inch long.  More than the absolute length, the ends must be cut
square and flat.  I use an X-Acto razor saw in the little aluminum
'miter' box.  Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the
tubing, but usually leave a poor end surface due to the tubing
collapsing when cut.  But you've got a foot or so to experiment with,
right?!?!

When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to
engage the clutch surfaces and then tighten the set screws.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Allen Bush wrote:

Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that
goes behind the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to
calibrate the skirt?  Mine have turned hard and are cracking and
turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Garey Barrell]

Curt -

No, they both go between the skirt and the washer in front of the C-clip.  There are 'ears' in the 
center hole of the skirt that fit into notches on the front of the larger brass shaft.


I like the material of your CD washer, but the od is too big to fit through the front bezel of the 7 
Line, and of course not nearly long enough.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Curt Nixon wrote:

Isn't the "clutch washer between the knob and the skirt?

Perhaps I'm thinking of the 3 and 4 series.

Curt

On 11/16/2011 10:17 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

Allen -

There are several choices.  The original is surgical rubber tubing, which is a translucent amber 
colored rubber tubing.  It's very soft and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' material.  
Unfortunately after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color.  It is difficult to find 
unless you have a friend who works in a hospital.  If you have a surgical supply store they will 
often cut off a foot or so for you, which is a lifetime supply.


Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black rubber, fabric reinforced 
tubing available at auto supply stores.  Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell you a foot 
cheaply.


Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels.  Again, you 
need a foot or less!

ALL of the above are 3/8" id x 5/8" od.  You need to cut a piece about a half inch long.  More 
than the absolute length, the ends must be cut square and flat.  I use an X-Acto razor saw in the 
little aluminum 'miter' box.  Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the tubing, but 
usually leave a poor end surface due to the tubing collapsing when cut.  But you've got a foot or 
so to experiment with, right?!?!


When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to engage the clutch surfaces and 
then tighten the set screws.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Allen Bush wrote:
Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that goes behind the dial skirt 
and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to calibrate the skirt?  Mine have turned hard and are 
cracking and turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Nigel A. Gunn, W8IFF/G8IFF]

I replaced mine with a felt disk.

On 17/11/11 13:00, drakelist-requ...@zerobeat.net wrote:

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 17:32:43 -0800 (PST)
From: Allen Bush
To:drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial
Message-ID:
<1321493563.44233.yahoomailclas...@web161203.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that goes behind 
the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to calibrate the skirt?? 
Mine have turned hard and are cracking and turning to dust? Allen, W0OUU



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Steve Wedge]

Apparently the 7's are different from the 3's and 4's.

While we're on the dial skirt topic, I've also found that, if you've busted 
that brittle circlip that's on the tuning shaft (or if it has moved; really - 
you do not want to try to spread it to move it back - DAMHIKT) of the B-Line 
that you can stack 1/4 x 20 washers on there until you get the proper spacing 
for the wave washer and dial skirt.  

That's also the way you can get a B knob and skirt onto a T-4X so it sorta 
matches an R-4B.

So now I'm curious: was the dial skirt assembly significantly different, or did 
Drake merely stop using the wave washers and switch to the tubing?

Enjoy Those Drakes...

Steve, W1ES/4

-Original Message-
>From: Curt Nixon 
>Sent: Nov 17, 2011 7:12 AM
>To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
>Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial
>
>Isn't the "clutch washer between the knob and the skirt?
>
>Perhaps I'm thinking of the 3 and 4 series.
>
>Curt
>
>On 11/16/2011 10:17 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:
>> Allen -
>>
>> There are several choices.  The original is surgical rubber tubing, 
>> which is a translucent amber colored rubber tubing.  It's very soft 
>> and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' material.  Unfortunately 
>> after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color.  It is difficult 
>> to find unless you have a friend who works in a hospital.  If you have 
>> a surgical supply store they will often cut off a foot or so for you, 
>> which is a lifetime supply.
>>
>> Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black 
>> rubber, fabric reinforced tubing available at auto supply stores.  
>> Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell you a foot cheaply.
>>
>> Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels.  
>> Again, you need a foot or less!
>>
>> ALL of the above are 3/8" id x 5/8" od.  You need to cut a piece about 
>> a half inch long.  More than the absolute length, the ends must be cut 
>> square and flat.  I use an X-Acto razor saw in the little aluminum 
>> 'miter' box.  Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the 
>> tubing, but usually leave a poor end surface due to the tubing 
>> collapsing when cut.  But you've got a foot or so to experiment with, 
>> right?!?!
>>
>> When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to 
>> engage the clutch surfaces and then tighten the set screws.
>>
>> 73, Garey - K4OAH
>> Glen Allen, VA
>>
>> Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
>> and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>> 
>>
>>
>> Allen Bush wrote:
>>> Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that 
>>> goes behind the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to 
>>> calibrate the skirt?  Mine have turned hard and are cracking and 
>>> turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>>
>
>___
>Drakelist mailing list
>Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Curt Nixon]

Isn't the "clutch washer between the knob and the skirt?

Perhaps I'm thinking of the 3 and 4 series.

Curt

On 11/16/2011 10:17 PM, Garey Barrell wrote:

Allen -

There are several choices.  The original is surgical rubber tubing, 
which is a translucent amber colored rubber tubing.  It's very soft 
and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' material.  Unfortunately 
after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color.  It is difficult 
to find unless you have a friend who works in a hospital.  If you have 
a surgical supply store they will often cut off a foot or so for you, 
which is a lifetime supply.


Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black 
rubber, fabric reinforced tubing available at auto supply stores.  
Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell you a foot cheaply.


Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels.  
Again, you need a foot or less!


ALL of the above are 3/8" id x 5/8" od.  You need to cut a piece about 
a half inch long.  More than the absolute length, the ends must be cut 
square and flat.  I use an X-Acto razor saw in the little aluminum 
'miter' box.  Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the 
tubing, but usually leave a poor end surface due to the tubing 
collapsing when cut.  But you've got a foot or so to experiment with, 
right?!?!


When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to 
engage the clutch surfaces and then tighten the set screws.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Allen Bush wrote:
Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that 
goes behind the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to 
calibrate the skirt?  Mine have turned hard and are cracking and 
turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Curt Nixon]

Yes...

In the past I have use an O ring from the hardware store.

But the best is a white foam washer that is used in the packing of the 
cylinder packs of CD's and DVD blanks.  Approx ID is 9/16,  OD is approx 
1.2" and thickness approx 1/8.  Soft, high density foam.


Curt

On 11/16/2011 8:32 PM, Allen Bush wrote:
Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that 
goes behind the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to 
calibrate the skirt?  Mine have turned hard and are cracking and 
turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[K9sqg]

My experience is that the independently owned hardware stores where I live 
actually sell surgical tubing in a few sizes.



-Original Message-
From: Garey Barrell 
To: Allen Bush 
Cc: drakelist 
Sent: Wed, Nov 16, 2011 5:18 pm
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial


Allen -

There are several choices.  The original is surgical rubber tubing, which is a 
translucent amber 
colored rubber tubing.  It's very soft and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' 
material.  
Unfortunately after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color.  It is 
difficult to find unless 
you have a friend who works in a hospital.  If you have a surgical supply store 
they will often cut 
off a foot or so for you, which is a lifetime supply.

Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black rubber, 
fabric 
reinforced tubing 
available at auto supply stores.  Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell 
you a foot cheaply.

Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels.  Again, you 
need a foot or less!

ALL of the above are 3/8" id x 5/8" od.  You need to cut a piece about a half 
inch long.  More than 
the absolute length, the ends must be cut square and flat.  I use an X-Acto 
razor saw in the little 
aluminum 'miter' box.  Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the 
tubing, but usually leave 
a poor end surface due to the tubing collapsing when cut.  But you've got a 
foot 
or so to experiment 
with, right?!?!

When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to engage the 
clutch surfaces and then 
tighten the set screws.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Allen Bush wrote:
> Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that goes 
> behind 
the dial skirt and 
> allows the dial/knob to be slipped to calibrate the skirt?  Mine have turned 
hard and are cracking 
> and turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU
>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

 
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Garey Barrell]

Allen -

There are several choices.  The original is surgical rubber tubing, which is a translucent amber 
colored rubber tubing.  It's very soft and flexible, and makes a great 'clutch' material.  
Unfortunately after 30-40 years it gets hard and darkens in color.  It is difficult to find unless 
you have a friend who works in a hospital.  If you have a surgical supply store they will often cut 
off a foot or so for you, which is a lifetime supply.


Another possibility is automotive 'heater' hose, which is a black rubber, fabric reinforced tubing 
available at auto supply stores.  Again they'll often cut off a piece, or sell you a foot cheaply.


Hardware stores also have poly tubing, the clear stuff on reels.  Again, you 
need a foot or less!

ALL of the above are 3/8" id x 5/8" od.  You need to cut a piece about a half inch long.  More than 
the absolute length, the ends must be cut square and flat.  I use an X-Acto razor saw in the little 
aluminum 'miter' box.  Various types of scissors and cutters will cut the tubing, but usually leave 
a poor end surface due to the tubing collapsing when cut.  But you've got a foot or so to experiment 
with, right?!?!


When you replace the MAIN TUNING knob, push in on it slightly to engage the clutch surfaces and then 
tighten the set screws.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Allen Bush wrote:
Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that goes behind the dial skirt and 
allows the dial/knob to be slipped to calibrate the skirt?  Mine have turned hard and are cracking 
and turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 dial

[Allen Bush]

Does anyone have a recommendation for the little rubber piece that goes behind 
the dial skirt and allows the dial/knob to be slipped to calibrate the skirt?  
Mine have turned hard and are cracking and turning to dust  Allen, W0OUU___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Off Frequency (1Khz)

[Jim Shorney]

Hi Brian,

On Tue, 05 Jul 2011 13:26:33 -0400, bjon...@mindspring.com wrote:

>Finally I
>remembered my freq counter (keeps track of my 10Mhz frequency standard)
>so I hooked the drake up to it directly and threw a 1W cw tone at it and
>was off by 1Khz (i.e the DR7 displayed 14.2140, but the counter showed
>14.2150)  (flipping over to the RV75 results in the same result)


A subtle, but important, distinction is that the TR-7 shifts the *transmit*
frequency from what the dial reads on CW. It seems that the majority of the
import rigs shift the recieve frequency. Thus, the DR-7 readout will be around
800 Hz off from your frequency counter in CW transmit. IIRC, this is not true
for AM, so try an carrier in AM mode.

>So my first question is:
>When trying to use WWV to determine receive frequency, what is the best
>way to do so? Apparently how I have been doing it for years is
>incorrect! 

What I usually do is set the PBT to center, RIT off, and adjust for zero beat
with WWV's carrier in SSB mode. This is easier if done during the periods when
WWV does not transmit audio tones. You will need to turn the volume up as you
approach zero beat in order to hear the beat note better. Use the strongest WWV
you can find. I'm curious as to how you were doing it that you think is
incorrect?

>Question number two:
>If both my transmit and receive frequency are off the same amount (1Khz)
>is there an adjustment on the DR-7 that will allow it to display
>correctly (My first glance through the service manual did not reveal any
>way, but I thought I would ask the experts here) or is that something
>that would have to be fixed through an alignment of the TR7?  (or at
>1Khz off is it better to just tape a sticky note to the table reminding
>me to add +1?)

The only adjustment that could possibly cause a TX/RX shift problem here is the
RIT center pot on the parent board. Otherwise, your RX and TX are the same as
the signals come from the same source. There is no seperate reference for the
DR-7. You rig may need to have the RIT center adjusted, and/or a frequency
alignment of the oscillators. This is not a hard thing to do, but you do need a
sensitive counter to read the oscillator signals. First, check the +10v
adjustment; if it's too far off, it will need to be set to 10V and you may need
to touch up the AGC/S-Meter adjustment. Then you will adjust the 40 MHz, 13.695
MHz, and 8.05 MHz, in that order. That should get you there, but it's a good
idea to check the fixed passband adjustments while you are at it. They are
almost always off a little. Follow the adjustment procedure in the service
manual, without skipping any steps, and you should be fine. I've found that
it's a good idea to isolate the counter probe from the signal under test with
an as high in value (carbon) resistor as you can use and still get a stable
reading, as the load of the counter can shift the oscillators a tiny but
(probably not enough to be concerned, but I'm picky). This seems to be most
apparent on the 40 MHz.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Off Frequency (1Khz)

[bjones0]

Long story short:

What prompted this was trying to troubleshoot my dad's rig (SGC2020) on
the air (there was a question about what frequency he was actually
on)... we could not seem to meet up on the right frequency.  Finally I
remembered my freq counter (keeps track of my 10Mhz frequency standard)
so I hooked the drake up to it directly and threw a 1W cw tone at it and
was off by 1Khz (i.e the DR7 displayed 14.2140, but the counter showed
14.2150)  (flipping over to the RV75 results in the same result)

Now I *think* my receive/transmit frequency are both off, because I have
had no troubles making qso's (worked 9 of the 13 colonies during the
contest this past weekend before I learned of the problem), and if only
one was off, I would have to work a split, which I have not had to do)

So my first question is:
When trying to use WWV to determine receive frequency, what is the best
way to do so? Apparently how I have been doing it for years is
incorrect! 

Question number two:
If both my transmit and receive frequency are off the same amount (1Khz)
is there an adjustment on the DR-7 that will allow it to display
correctly (My first glance through the service manual did not reveal any
way, but I thought I would ask the experts here) or is that something
that would have to be fixed through an alignment of the TR7?  (or at
1Khz off is it better to just tape a sticky note to the table reminding
me to add +1?)

Thanks & 73,
Brian
KD4UYP


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 HELP

[Curt Nixon]

On this page...down to restoration techniques...TR-7 Sticky Paint 
repair.  It works and is a lot easier to do than a repaint.


Lots of other great info also

http://www.wb4hfn.com/DRAKE/DrakeTechTips.htm

Curt
KU8L



Norman & Barbara Ray wrote:
I have a complete TR-7 which I am helping a silent key widow dispose 
of.  It has all the boxes made for it including a bunch of Drake log 
books. 
 
I know this has been covered so apologize ahead of time for posting 
this but I am concerned about the finish being what some call 
“sticky”.  It is in relatively good shape but has a few marks on it.  
It seems to me from previous discussions with Drake and Alpha that 
there may be a procedure short of stripping and re-painting with the 
Drake paint  to make it look some better.   I have a buyer for it and 
they have not expressed any problem with the finish but would like to 
pass on any information so they can make a decision if they end up 
buying it.
 
This is a well cared for TR-7 system and want to make sure it goes to 
someone who appreciates the heritage of Drake.  It is one of the few 
complete system I have seen even with the Drake mike and the dummy load.
 
Any help would be appreciated.
 
Norm W7LFA



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
  



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 HELP

[Norman & Barbara Ray]

I have a complete TR-7 which I am helping a silent key widow dispose of.  It 
has all the boxes made for it including a bunch of Drake log books.  

I know this has been covered so apologize ahead of time for posting this but I 
am concerned about the finish being what some call “sticky”.  It is in 
relatively good shape but has a few marks on it.  It seems to me from previous 
discussions with Drake and Alpha that there may be a procedure short of 
stripping and re-painting with the Drake paint  to make it look some better.   
I have a buyer for it and they have not expressed any problem with the finish 
but would like to pass on any information so they can make a decision if they 
end up buying it.

This is a well cared for TR-7 system and want to make sure it goes to someone 
who appreciates the heritage of Drake.  It is one of the few complete system I 
have seen even with the Drake mike and the dummy load.

Any help would be appreciated.

Norm W7LFA___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit

[Jim Shorney]

On Fri, 18 Feb 2011 13:56:25 -0800, kendw...@netscape.com wrote:

>S-meter drops to zero, and no movement on w-7 meter on transmit test, two 
>differet 7077, A-104 mics.

Any output in CW or AM?

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit

[Ron]

Ken,
Have you tried CW mode to see if it is related to the audio chain vs more or 
less just the RF chain?  

73,
Ron WD8SBB

--- On Fri, 2/18/11, kendw...@netscape.com  wrote:

> From: kendw...@netscape.com 
> Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Date: Friday, February 18, 2011, 4:56 PM
> Power up, good receive on short 20'
> wire, s-3 steady, couple of jumps to s-5 on strong 20 meter
> signal.  S-meter drops to zero, and no movement on w-7
> meter on transmit test, two differet 7077, A-104 mics.(300
> watt drake dummy attached to W7)  mid 3k range, all
> late boards, including aux7, NB, 2nd IF, only early is on
> the PA, small board, have a late series pa brick, and
> several assorted boards as spares. Before start-up,
> carefully pulled, de-oxit pins, and several re-seatings all
> topside boards, and hit the band switches also first with
> kroil and then with de-oxit, as start. VFO now very smooth
> and easy turning.  Cured the aux7 of 3 bands changing
> displays routine.  Frequency rock solid stable, except
> .9/0. can flicker back and forth on a very small spot...LOL
> 
> Since my gear is very limited, any suggestions as to board
> swaps as a testing bed would be welcome, Starting as to
> whether the pa brick might be a good start? Probably missing
> several, but can try the ones I have.  I'd rather spend
> a few hours on this then merely send it out somewheres,..at
> least maybe narrow it down some. Maybe get lucky!
> 
> Last night, heard a signal out of Japan and Europe, S3,
> Boston boomed in S5.  S-3 barely audible on speaker,
> but my hearing pretty poor, earphones help a lot. on 20' of
> #12 house wire up a floor and across the ceiling a ways.
> 
> Meanwhile, will spend some time in the service manual, read
> it carefully through, and bookmark starting points. 
> Time to see if the heatkit testing rig Vxxx works, and look
> over that manual, also. Fluke 87, screwdriver, and extender
> board set on hand. Not in a hurry.
> 
> Good break in weather today, 40's.  One of the pigs
> jumped? over the 18" of fence above the 2 1/2 ft of
> hardpack, and went shoulder deep in 3' unpacked snow. Poor
> piggy didn't go far, backed up after less than 15' and
> climbed back into the pen, urged on by the other pig happily
> slurping down alone the 2nd pail of warm feed and some hot
> boiled potatoes.  They do like to eat...Yorkshires, 18
> months now, getting pretty big.  Ever see the cartoon
> movie, "Pigs is Pigs"  Disney, I think...digressing
> 
> 73'a
> ken
> AB1JZ
> 
> p.s. some might be interested in this: "Egypt Influence
> Network", from Egypt tweetgrid postings on tb2k, pg 105? of
> the series ofnear continuous coverage.
> 
> http://www.kovasboguta.com/uploads/4/7/9/5/4795292/egyptinfluencenetwork.pdf 
> 
> 
> This is high res version, and is a small indication of what
> monitoring and computers can do. My biggest surprise this is
> in the open...
> 
> _
> Netscape.  Just the Net You Need.
> 
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 


  

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 no transmit

Power up, good receive on short 20' wire, s-3 steady, couple of jumps to s-5 on 
strong 20 meter signal.  S-meter drops to zero, and no movement on w-7 meter on 
transmit test, two differet 7077, A-104 mics.(300 watt drake dummy attached to 
W7)  mid 3k range, all late boards, including aux7, NB, 2nd IF, only early is 
on the PA, small board, have a late series pa brick, and several assorted 
boards as spares. Before start-up, carefully pulled, de-oxit pins, and several 
re-seatings all topside boards, and hit the band switches also first with kroil 
and then with de-oxit, as start. VFO now very smooth and easy turning.  Cured 
the aux7 of 3 bands changing displays routine.  Frequency rock solid stable, 
except .9/0. can flicker back and forth on a very small spot...LOL

Since my gear is very limited, any suggestions as to board swaps as a testing 
bed would be welcome, Starting as to whether the pa brick might be a good 
start? Probably missing several, but can try the ones I have.  I'd rather spend 
a few hours on this then merely send it out somewheres,..at least maybe narrow 
it down some. Maybe get lucky!

Last night, heard a signal out of Japan and Europe, S3, Boston boomed in S5.  
S-3 barely audible on speaker, but my hearing pretty poor, earphones help a 
lot. on 20' of #12 house wire up a floor and across the ceiling a ways.

Meanwhile, will spend some time in the service manual, read it carefully 
through, and bookmark starting points.  Time to see if the heatkit testing rig 
Vxxx works, and look over that manual, also. Fluke 87, screwdriver, and 
extender board set on hand. Not in a hurry.

Good break in weather today, 40's.  One of the pigs jumped? over the 18" of 
fence above the 2 1/2 ft of hardpack, and went shoulder deep in 3' unpacked 
snow. Poor piggy didn't go far, backed up after less than 15' and climbed back 
into the pen, urged on by the other pig happily slurping down alone the 2nd 
pail of warm feed and some hot boiled potatoes.  They do like to 
eat...Yorkshires, 18 months now, getting pretty big.  Ever see the cartoon 
movie, "Pigs is Pigs"  Disney, I think...digressing

73'a
ken
AB1JZ

p.s. some might be interested in this: "Egypt Influence Network", from Egypt 
tweetgrid postings on tb2k, pg 105? of the series ofnear continuous coverage.

http://www.kovasboguta.com/uploads/4/7/9/5/4795292/egyptinfluencenetwork.pdf  

This is high res version, and is a small indication of what monitoring and 
computers can do. My biggest surprise this is in the open...

_
Netscape.  Just the Net You Need.

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 local oscillator

[Al Ward]

Garey
I appreciate your comments as well as others on their recommendations. Looks
like a weekend project.
73
Al W5LUA 

-Original Message-
From: drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net [mailto:drakelist-boun...@zerobeat.net]
On Behalf Of Garey Barrell
Sent: Wednesday, February 02, 2011 3:33 AM
Cc: drakelist@zerobeat.net
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 local oscillator

Al -

There are two PLL's in the TR-7, one for the bands below 20M and another for
bands above.  Your 'high band' VCO is not locking.  The 'wandering' 
frequency is just the free-running VCO going to it's 'idle' frequency 'or
so', which should be around 32 MHz.

First suspect is corrosion on the card connector pins, and of course all the
likely candidates are UNDER the DR-7 board.  Get a bottle of DeoxIT D100L,
and set aside an afternoon to remove, DeoxIT and replace all the boards.  It
doesn't hurt to twist each of the coax cables a bit at each termination.  If
you unplug one, be careful to get the center conductor (contact 'pin')
aligned carefully before pushing it home.  Careful also to get the DR-7 pins
nice and straight to ensure they go into the correct socket.

If that doesn't take care of it, (~95% probability that it WILL,) then check
the +24 VDC supply on the small power supply board just behind the front
panel logo.  Careful to not bump the trimpots, especially the right-most one
closest to the side panel.  If this voltage is low, verify that the top half
of the DC-DC converter transformer on that board is in place and firmly in
contact with the lower half.  Two 'E' 
shaped cores, 'face-to-face' and in firm contact.  The shorted loop of wire
around the transformer IS supposed to be there, not to hold the halves
together (wrong axis anyway!) but to minimize the external field from the
transformer.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Al Ward wrote:
> Hello to the group
> My TR-7 local oscillator for bands 20M and above will not lock. The 
> display shows it wondering up in frequency. The last band position 
> that works properly is the 7 MHz position and you can step the 
> frequency segments up to 10 MHz and that is as high as it will go and 
> stay locked.
> Does anyone have any advice on what and where to look for the problem? 
> I did buy some extender boards in preparation to work on this problem.
> Thanks and 73
> Al W5LUA
>

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 local oscillator

[Garey Barrell]

Al -

There are two PLL's in the TR-7, one for the bands below 20M and another 
for bands above.  Your 'high band' VCO is not locking.  The 'wandering' 
frequency is just the free-running VCO going to it's 'idle' frequency 
'or so', which should be around 32 MHz.


First suspect is corrosion on the card connector pins, and of course all 
the likely candidates are UNDER the DR-7 board.  Get a bottle of DeoxIT 
D100L, and set aside an afternoon to remove, DeoxIT and replace all the 
boards.  It doesn't hurt to twist each of the coax cables a bit at each 
termination.  If you unplug one, be careful to get the center conductor 
(contact 'pin') aligned carefully before pushing it home.  Careful also 
to get the DR-7 pins nice and straight to ensure they go into the 
correct socket.


If that doesn't take care of it, (~95% probability that it WILL,) then 
check the +24 VDC supply on the small power supply board just behind the 
front panel logo.  Careful to not bump the trimpots, especially the 
right-most one closest to the side panel.  If this voltage is low, 
verify that the top half of the DC-DC converter transformer on that 
board is in place and firmly in contact with the lower half.  Two 'E' 
shaped cores, 'face-to-face' and in firm contact.  The shorted loop of 
wire around the transformer IS supposed to be there, not to hold the 
halves together (wrong axis anyway!) but to minimize the external field 
from the transformer.


73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Al Ward wrote:

Hello to the group
My TR-7 local oscillator for bands 20M and above will not lock. The 
display shows it wondering up in frequency. The last band position 
that works properly is the 7 MHz position and you can step the 
frequency segments up to 10 MHz and that is as high as it will go and 
stay locked.
Does anyone have any advice on what and where to look for the problem? 
I did buy some extender boards in preparation to work on this problem.

Thanks and 73
Al W5LUA
   


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 local oscillator

[Jim Shorney]

First things to check are the +24v power supply and those pesky Molex pin
connectors between the DR-7 and the boards underneath it.

73

-Jim


On Wed, 2 Feb 2011 00:49:10 -, Al Ward wrote:

>Hello to the group
>My TR-7 local oscillator for bands 20M and above will not lock. The display
>shows it wondering up in frequency. The last band position that works
>properly is the 7 MHz position and you can step the frequency segments up to
>10 MHz and that is as high as it will go and stay locked.
>Does anyone have any advice on what and where to look for the problem? I did
>buy some extender boards in preparation to work on this problem.
>Thanks and 73
>Al W5LUA
>


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 local oscillator

[Al Ward]

Hello to the group
My TR-7 local oscillator for bands 20M and above will not lock. The display
shows it wondering up in frequency. The last band position that works
properly is the 7 MHz position and you can step the frequency segments up to
10 MHz and that is as high as it will go and stay locked.
Does anyone have any advice on what and where to look for the problem? I did
buy some extender boards in preparation to work on this problem.
Thanks and 73
Al W5LUA
___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 28 MHz power falloff

[Jim Shorney]

Hi Gary,

On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 13:34:19 -0500, Garey Barrell wrote:

>PIN diodes are kinda like PA tubes.  They get leaky, and start to fall 
>off at the highest frequencies first.  They don't always short or open!

That may be true, but I wouldn't expect that much in just 400 KHz. I've been
tempted to remove that calibrator function anyway, on the 7-Line it just seems
to be enhanced uselessness. If it were a seperate 100 KHz crystal, maybe if
could be useful once in a while. But seeing as how it's derived from the same
master oscillator as the rest of the radio, if the radio is off, so is the
"calibrator".


>Perhaps this is why you're not hearing much on 10 either!  :-)

Seeing that the R-7 and the HR-2510 aren't hearing much either, I doubt it. I'm
also watching the DX-Sherlock prop maps, and they agree. Typical of Es in
December, Nebraska doesn't get much. It tends to favor the southern states and
the coast. Aside from that, I'm hearing plenty of spurs from digital stuff
across the band. :)

73

-Jim



--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 28 MHz power falloff

[Garey Barrell]

Jim -

PIN diodes are kinda like PA tubes.  They get leaky, and start to fall 
off at the highest frequencies first.  They don't always short or open!


Perhaps this is why you're not hearing much on 10 either!  :-)

Yes, it could be a cap in the LP filter, but I'd say diodes are much 
more likely.


I think the Calibrator switching diodes are the primary culprit.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-A, 4-B, C-Line
and TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Jim Shorney wrote:

I'm getting some great suggestions, thanks to everyone.

However, just so we are all on the same page, I know about the PIN doides. I am
discounting them at this point since the power out is OK at 28.0, but falls off
by a good 35 watts by 28.4. This does not seem like PIN diode behaviour.

73

-Jim


   


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 28 MHz power falloff

[Jim Shorney]

I'm getting some great suggestions, thanks to everyone. 

However, just so we are all on the same page, I know about the PIN doides. I am
discounting them at this point since the power out is OK at 28.0, but falls off
by a good 35 watts by 28.4. This does not seem like PIN diode behaviour.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 28 MHz power falloff

[Jim Shorney]

Thanks, Bob. Yeah, I know that those PIN diodes get blamed for lots of stuff
that they don't really cause. :) I was getting a solid 90+ watts out on 10
Meters, with ALC, after I rebuilt the PA deck. Perhaps not the best it could
do, but certianly adequate. The power level drop does not concern me so much,
as we all know you can work 10 with a wet noodle when the band is open. Rather,
the lack of ALC makes it easier to overdrive something under these conditions.
I can level the output with my SP-75, and a check with a local indicated that I
was OK at that level, but it still needs to be fixed later.  And, of course,
I'll check the PIN diodes again...

73

-Jim

On Sat, 11 Dec 2010 09:51:48 -0800, Robert Fish wrote:

>Hi Jim,
>I think you are probably aware of the Pin Diode issues on the higher 
>bands. I think that affects the whole band or bands (15 meters too).
>Not just a portion of a band. It does seem like your LPF's are rolling 
>off early.
>
>I am using a TR-7 on the 10 meter contest right now as well. I am barely 
>driving a linear amp (20 watts) to get me up to 150 watts with it.
>Why not just run a KW. You ask? It brings the neighbors and the family  
>out of the wood work if I run 1000 watts  on 28 MHZ.
>
>
>Bob  K6GGO
>
>
>> Hi gang,
>>
>> Here's an odd one. Fired up the trusty 7-Line this weekend for the 10 Meter
>> contest, and I noticed that I wasn't gettng any ALC action and power output 
>> was
>> low. Further investigation revealed that the power drops from about 95 Watts 
>> CW
>> at 28.0 to around 65 Watts at 28.4 MHz into a DL-1000 dummy load. The PA was
>> rebuilt a couple of years ago per the article on the WB4HFN web site, and has
>> been rock solid until now. My first inclination without cracking the manual 
>> is
>> a faulty component in the output lowpass filter, or perhaps some other filter
>> stage somewhere.
>>
>> Any thoughts? I'm not going to bench the radio in the middle of a contest,
>> despite the fact that the propagation gods are ignoring me again, just trying
>> to formulate a plan of attack.
>>
>> 73
>>
>> -Jim
>>
>>
>> --
>> Ham Radio NU0C
>> Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
>> TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, 
>> GT550A/RV550A, HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!
>>
>> "Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and 
>> he will learn for a lifetime."
>>
>> HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
>> http://radiojim.exofire.net
>> http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
>> http://www.nebraskaghosts.org
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
>> Drakelist mailing list
>> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
>>
>>
>
>


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 28 MHz power falloff

[Jim Shorney]

Hi gang,

Here's an odd one. Fired up the trusty 7-Line this weekend for the 10 Meter
contest, and I noticed that I wasn't gettng any ALC action and power output was
low. Further investigation revealed that the power drops from about 95 Watts CW
at 28.0 to around 65 Watts at 28.4 MHz into a DL-1000 dummy load. The PA was
rebuilt a couple of years ago per the article on the WB4HFN web site, and has
been rock solid until now. My first inclination without cracking the manual is
a faulty component in the output lowpass filter, or perhaps some other filter
stage somewhere.

Any thoughts? I'm not going to bench the radio in the middle of a contest,
despite the fact that the propagation gods are ignoring me again, just trying
to formulate a plan of attack.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 Update

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 20:19:54 -0400, K8JDC wrote:

>I backed off the pot on the predriver board and it's happy so far.  I 
>backed it off very slightly and it still oscillated on 40m so I had to 
>go further.  I think I still have about the same output power and I 
>think the ALC LED is still coming on correctly so I think it is okay.  I 
>still have good power on 10m through 80m.
>
>I was careful during the alignment to not set that pot too high.  Makes 
>me wonder if something has drifted in value.


Proper alignment is a balance between the setting of the gain pot and the ALC
pot. Drake spec is to adjust the ALC for 140-150 watts on 20 Meters (CW,
carrier control fullly clockwise), then adjust the gain pot so you are *just*
into ALC on 10 Meters. The 10 Meter end of it can be a bit iffy, depending on
how your PA deck performs at the high end - sometimes you need more gain than
the circuit can handle, and 40 Meters takes off. There is an article on
WB4HFN's web site about rebuilding the PA deck with some more modern devices
that perform better at high frequencies. The gain of the transistors falls off
as you go up in frequency, so there is really too much gain in the circuit at
lower frequencies. The negative feedback circuit in the REV. 2 predriver board
is a RL network from collector to base of Q2201 which provides increasig
negative feedback as you go lower in frequency. My educated guess was that more
negative feedback was still needed, and reducing the value of R2203 achieved
this. There may or may not still be enough gain to get rated power on 10
Meters, results vary. It worked out well on my personal rig with the rebuilt PA
deck as per the aforementioned article, and another unit with a stock PA deck.
I'm still waiting for some engineer-dude to do the math on the feedback
thing... :)

I tried some other things, including adding extra grounding foil to the PA
board as described in an internet article from another ham, and nothing else
seemed to make a dent in the 40 Meter oscilation issue. Floyd's PIN diode
attenuator board is a neat idea, and I may give it a try someday just for fun,
but for now I'm sticking with the KISS principle - the simple fix is working
fine, and I'm happy.

--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd

[K8AC]

?I was plagued with the 40M oscillation problem with the same symptoms - a 
40M antenna with a bit of reactance resulted in the oscillation.  I decided 
to build the PIN diode attenuator per the PA1HFO design and solved the 
problem that way.  That allows you to set the signal level fed to the 
pre-driver stage to a different level on each band.  You can then adjust 
each band so that the drive control can be left in the same position as you 
switch bands and you don't have to adjust it for every band change.  With 
the input signal thus attenuated on 40M, the oscillation was never heard 
from again.  There are other advantages to the attenuator and the whole 
thing is described in an article on WB4HFN's site.   The mods to the 
original TR7 are minimal - the attenuator sits in the coax feed to the PA 
brick and you have to pick up the supply voltage and band switch information 
from points on the motherboard.  The entire mod can be removed in very short 
order if desired.


73, K8AC

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Shorney" 

To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 6:09 PM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd



On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 16:50:50 -0400, K8JDC wrote:


I had trouble keeping it from oscillating when I followed
the instructions.  I tried to follow the service manual carefully but it
wanted to oscillate.  I had to fiddle with it a fair amount going
between the two adjustment pots to make it happy.  Maybe it's still too
hot.  My meter says I'm getting about 125W out on 40m.




I would bet that if you had a frequency counter coupled to it, you would 
find
that it is oscillating somewhere in the 9 MHz area. That is the symptom of 
the
40 Meter oscillation problem that I found. 125 Watts is below the spec 
that
Drake says to align it to, so you should be able to get more out. I would 
have
to go back and look at my notes, but I think 330 Ohms paralleled across 
R2203
on the REV. 2 predriver board was what I used to increase the amount 
negative
feedback at lower frequencies. It may be possible or necessary to go even 
lower
in value, but this is what worked for me on two samples that I had. I was 
just
able to make rated output through adjustment of the predriver pot and ALC 
pot
without oscillation. It's hard to get it to oscillate into a dummy load, 
it

seems to need an antenna to take off.

73




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 Update

[K8JDC]

 Sorry for hogging the Drakelist today...

I backed off the pot on the predriver board and it's happy so far.  I 
backed it off very slightly and it still oscillated on 40m so I had to 
go further.  I think I still have about the same output power and I 
think the ALC LED is still coming on correctly so I think it is okay.  I 
still have good power on 10m through 80m.


I was careful during the alignment to not set that pot too high.  Makes 
me wonder if something has drifted in value.


I slid it back into position and have been testing it on the antenna and 
have not seen any more oscillating.  I'll have to keep an eye on it.


Dave
K8JDC

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 15:43:01 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:

>
>Is that a possibility?  If the antenna is tuned to 20M by the tuner, and 
>the transmitter is putting out 40M RF, then the transmitter is seeing a 
>mismatch and 'shuts down'.  Does it 'really' go to ZERO power or is it 
>just rolled back to 20 or so Watts?


Actually, the oscillation seems to be inherent in the bandswitch segment that
covers 40 Meters. I was able to see it in any 500 KHz segment of that range,
and the actual frequency of the oscillation was in the area of 9 MHz,
regardless of which 500 KHz segment of that range that I was in. So, any
antenna resonant in a ham band would have high VSWR at the freqency of
oscillation. In power testing on a dummy load, I did seem to see a shallow peak
in output around 9 MHz, and for some reason this is what suggested to me that
the gain somewhere in the  predriver might be too high in that area. I ceased
further investigation once I found a fix that worked. Maybe somone who has the
proper software could model the REV. 2 predriver and see what crawls out.


>BUT, if you put 40M RF into a tuner set for 20M why would the external 
>power meter show high reflected power?  Unless enough 40M RF is getting 
>through the tuner to see the mismatched antenna
>
>My head hurts   Worth looking into.

What puzzles me is the behaviour of the forward power meter. IIRC, in the units
that I had here, the forward power was quite high when it was oscillating.
Almost like full power CW. Maybe it's some difference in the way the rigs were
adjusted.  WTF?

Interesting problem.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd

[Jim Shorney]

On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 16:50:50 -0400, K8JDC wrote:

>I had trouble keeping it from oscillating when I followed 
>the instructions.  I tried to follow the service manual carefully but it 
>wanted to oscillate.  I had to fiddle with it a fair amount going 
>between the two adjustment pots to make it happy.  Maybe it's still too 
>hot.  My meter says I'm getting about 125W out on 40m.
>


I would bet that if you had a frequency counter coupled to it, you would find
that it is oscillating somewhere in the 9 MHz area. That is the symptom of the
40 Meter oscillation problem that I found. 125 Watts is below the spec that
Drake says to align it to, so you should be able to get more out. I would have
to go back and look at my notes, but I think 330 Ohms paralleled across R2203
on the REV. 2 predriver board was what I used to increase the amount negative
feedback at lower frequencies. It may be possible or necessary to go even lower
in value, but this is what worked for me on two samples that I had. I was just
able to make rated output through adjustment of the predriver pot and ALC pot
without oscillation. It's hard to get it to oscillate into a dummy load, it
seems to need an antenna to take off.

73

-Jim


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

[Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info Cont'd

[K8JDC]

 To everybody who has written thus far, I thank you.  Still working on 
it...


- I have double-checked the ground connections on the tuner and radio.  
All is good there.


- To Gary who suggested that the external tuner indicated that the 
problem was past that point, I hooked my Tentec up to the same 
tuner/antenna and it is rock solid at full power output into the same 
configuration.  I also don't think I have a break in the ladder line for 
the same reason.  I have connected my MFJ-259 to the tuner input and the 
antenna is about 58+j7 in terms of impedance.  Looks rock solid on the 
259...no fluctuation.


- I can't induce the problem on 20m...only 40m.  I ran 20m CW into the 
same doublet/ladder line antenna and it's fine...at least through a 
short test.


- During testing, I notice that I can induce the problem by unkeying the 
radio a fairly high percentage of the time.  So, if I put it in CW and 
key up, all will be well until I unkey.  When I unkey, the reflected 
power will frequently jump.  Same on SSB if I key the mic with no input 
audio.  If I just key the mic with basically zero RF going out and then 
unkey, I will see the reflected needle jump when I let off the PTT 
switch.  This is what had me thinking about the T/R relay.  I tried this 
on 20m and didn't see the same thing.  It operated normally.


When I aligned this radio (I don't recall the exact S/N but I think it's 
around 4900), I had trouble keeping it from oscillating when I followed 
the instructions.  I tried to follow the service manual carefully but it 
wanted to oscillate.  I had to fiddle with it a fair amount going 
between the two adjustment pots to make it happy.  Maybe it's still too 
hot.  My meter says I'm getting about 125W out on 40m.


Dave
K8JD

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info

[Garey Barrell]

Jim -

Is that a possibility?  If the antenna is tuned to 20M by the tuner, and 
the transmitter is putting out 40M RF, then the transmitter is seeing a 
mismatch and 'shuts down'.  Does it 'really' go to ZERO power or is it 
just rolled back to 20 or so Watts?


BUT, if you put 40M RF into a tuner set for 20M why would the external 
power meter show high reflected power?  Unless enough 40M RF is getting 
through the tuner to see the mismatched antenna


My head hurts   Worth looking into.

What's the serial number of the transceiver??

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



Jim Shorney wrote:

That *almost* sounds like the 40 Meter oscillation problem - except for the
behaviour of the forward power meter. Some TR-7s are prone to PA deck
oscillation in the 40 meter band with a reactive load (antenna). The easy fix
for this is to reduce the gain of the predriver board by adjusting the provided
gain pot. The better fix that I have arrived at is to increase the negative
feedback in the predriver circuit, which reduces the overall gain of the
predriver and still allows full power output to be achieved. I've done this
only on REV. 2 predrivers, I haven't had a REV. 1 come across my bench yet.

73

-Jim


On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 13:00:30 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:

   

Dave -

If the external SWR meter goes to 'infinity' on reflected, then the
problem is PAST that meter.  The fact that it is ok on a dummy load also
indicates an antenna problem.

Sounds like an open feedline, - OR - balun, if used.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



K8JDC wrote:
 

  Some more data points:

1.  I cannot get the radio to malfunction on a dummy load.  I have
only seen the problem on 40m when connected to the antenna which is a
135-ft doublet fed with ladder line.  Tuner is a Tentec 238B and the
tuner is right next to the TR-7.  That leads me to wonder if there's
some RF from the balanced line that is part of the problem.

2.  I checked on 20m and don't see the problem on either a dummy load
or my antenna which is a Steppir.  Output power is stable.

3.  The TR-7 forward meter goes to zero when the problem happens.
Reflected indicator goes max scale.  So those readings are the same as
my external meter.

4.  I hooked up my Tentec Orion to the same tuner/antenna and all is
well.  No hint of anything wrong with the antenna.  Output power is
totally stable.

5.  This problem happens on CW as well as SSB.  I have a toggle switch
wired to key the radio for tuning and it will put out full power into
the antenna for a few seconds and then the reflected power will go to
infinity.  Power into the dummy load is fine.

6.  I did notice at least once that the problem occurred just as I
unkeyed in CW mode.  So, just as I unkeyed, I saw the reflected power
jump high.

So, the above leads me to wonder about the transmit relay.  I wondered
if the contacts are somehow dirty but I don't see the problem on the
dummy load so that leads me to wonder if the T/R relay is somehow
being affected by some RF from the ladder line which is nearby.  It's
not easily possible to separate the radio and tuner any more because
of how my desk is laid out.  The ladder line comes out of the tuner
and goes to the left to the outside world.  The TR-7 sits just to the
right of the tuner so the ladder line does not go behind the radio
although it's only about 10 inches away from the T/R relay when it
exits the tuner.

??

Dave
K8JDC
   




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info

[Douglas]

> Date: Sat, 16 Oct 2010 12:03:18 -0400
> From: K8JDC 
> To: drakelist@zerobeat.net
> Subject: [Drakelist] TR-7  - More Info
> Message-ID: <4cb9ccc6.7020...@sbcglobal.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1;
> format=flowed
> 
>   Some more data points:
> 
> 1.  I cannot get the radio to malfunction on a dummy
> load.  I have only 
> seen the problem on 40m when connected to the antenna which
> is a 135-ft 
> doublet fed with ladder line.  Tuner is a Tentec 238B
> and the tuner is 
> right next to the TR-7.  That leads me to wonder if
> there's some RF from 
> the balanced line that is part of the problem.
> 
> 2.  I checked on 20m and don't see the problem on
> either a dummy load or 
> my antenna which is a Steppir.  Output power is
> stable.
> 
> 3.  The TR-7 forward meter goes to zero when the
> problem happens.  
> Reflected indicator goes max scale.  So those readings
> are the same as 
> my external meter.
> 
> 4.  I hooked up my Tentec Orion to the same
> tuner/antenna and all is 
> well.  No hint of anything wrong with the
> antenna.  Output power is 
> totally stable.
> 
> 5.  This problem happens on CW as well as SSB.  I
> have a toggle switch 
> wired to key the radio for tuning and it will put out full
> power into 
> the antenna for a few seconds and then the reflected power
> will go to 
> infinity.  Power into the dummy load is fine.
> 
> 6.  I did notice at least once that the problem
> occurred just as I 
> unkeyed in CW mode.  So, just as I unkeyed, I saw the
> reflected power 
> jump high.
> 
> So, the above leads me to wonder about the transmit
> relay.  I wondered 
> if the contacts are somehow dirty but I don't see the
> problem on the 
> dummy load so that leads me to wonder if the T/R relay is
> somehow being 
> affected by some RF from the ladder line which is
> nearby.  It's not 
> easily possible to separate the radio and tuner any more
> because of how 
> my desk is laid out.  The ladder line comes out of the
> tuner and goes to 
> the left to the outside world.  The TR-7 sits just to
> the right of the 
> tuner so the ladder line does not go behind the radio
> although it's only 
> about 10 inches away from the T/R relay when it exits the
> tuner.
> 
> ??
> 
> Dave
> K8JDC


I've not found a 135 ft antenna feed with ladder line to be ideal on 40 meters. 
It presents a high impedance/high RF voltage load to your tuner, increasing the 
RF field around the ladder line and probably causing RF feedback within your 
TR7.

I'd attempt to lengthen the ladder line to find a combo that works better or 
better yet simply use another antenna on 40 mtrs. If you have enough room for 
135 ft, you have enough room for a 66 ft coax feed dipole for 40.

73,

Doug/WA1TUT


 


___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info

[Jim Shorney]

That *almost* sounds like the 40 Meter oscillation problem - except for the
behaviour of the forward power meter. Some TR-7s are prone to PA deck
oscillation in the 40 meter band with a reactive load (antenna). The easy fix
for this is to reduce the gain of the predriver board by adjusting the provided
gain pot. The better fix that I have arrived at is to increase the negative
feedback in the predriver circuit, which reduces the overall gain of the
predriver and still allows full power output to be achieved. I've done this
only on REV. 2 predrivers, I haven't had a REV. 1 come across my bench yet.

73

-Jim


On Sat, 16 Oct 2010 13:00:30 -0400, Garey Barrell wrote:

>Dave -
>
>If the external SWR meter goes to 'infinity' on reflected, then the 
>problem is PAST that meter.  The fact that it is ok on a dummy load also 
>indicates an antenna problem.
>
>Sounds like an open feedline, - OR - balun, if used.
>
>73, Garey - K4OAH
>Glen Allen, VA
>
>Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
>TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs
>
>
>
>K8JDC wrote:
>>  Some more data points:
>>
>> 1.  I cannot get the radio to malfunction on a dummy load.  I have 
>> only seen the problem on 40m when connected to the antenna which is a 
>> 135-ft doublet fed with ladder line.  Tuner is a Tentec 238B and the 
>> tuner is right next to the TR-7.  That leads me to wonder if there's 
>> some RF from the balanced line that is part of the problem.
>>
>> 2.  I checked on 20m and don't see the problem on either a dummy load 
>> or my antenna which is a Steppir.  Output power is stable.
>>
>> 3.  The TR-7 forward meter goes to zero when the problem happens.  
>> Reflected indicator goes max scale.  So those readings are the same as 
>> my external meter.
>>
>> 4.  I hooked up my Tentec Orion to the same tuner/antenna and all is 
>> well.  No hint of anything wrong with the antenna.  Output power is 
>> totally stable.
>>
>> 5.  This problem happens on CW as well as SSB.  I have a toggle switch 
>> wired to key the radio for tuning and it will put out full power into 
>> the antenna for a few seconds and then the reflected power will go to 
>> infinity.  Power into the dummy load is fine.
>>
>> 6.  I did notice at least once that the problem occurred just as I 
>> unkeyed in CW mode.  So, just as I unkeyed, I saw the reflected power 
>> jump high.
>>
>> So, the above leads me to wonder about the transmit relay.  I wondered 
>> if the contacts are somehow dirty but I don't see the problem on the 
>> dummy load so that leads me to wonder if the T/R relay is somehow 
>> being affected by some RF from the ladder line which is nearby.  It's 
>> not easily possible to separate the radio and tuner any more because 
>> of how my desk is laid out.  The ladder line comes out of the tuner 
>> and goes to the left to the outside world.  The TR-7 sits just to the 
>> right of the tuner so the ladder line does not go behind the radio 
>> although it's only about 10 inches away from the T/R relay when it 
>> exits the tuner.
>>
>> ??
>>
>> Dave
>> K8JDC
>>
>>
>
>___
>Drakelist mailing list
>Drakelist@zerobeat.net
>http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist


--
Ham Radio NU0C
Lincoln, Nebraska, U.S.S.A.
TR7/RV7/R7A/L7, TR6/RV6, T4XC/R4C/L4B, NCL2000, SB104A, R390A, GT550A/RV550A, 
HyGain 3750, IBM PS/2 - all vintage, all the time!

"Give a man a URL, and he will learn for an hour; teach him to Google, and he 
will learn for a lifetime."

HyGain 3750 User's Group - http://groups.yahoo.com/group/HyGain_3750/
http://radiojim.exofire.net
http://incolor.inetnebr.com/jshorney
http://www.nebraskaghosts.org



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info

[Garey Barrell]

Dave -

If the external SWR meter goes to 'infinity' on reflected, then the 
problem is PAST that meter.  The fact that it is ok on a dummy load also 
indicates an antenna problem.


Sounds like an open feedline, - OR - balun, if used.

73, Garey - K4OAH
Glen Allen, VA

Drake 2-B, 2-C/2-NT, 4-B, C-Line&
TR-4/C Service Supplement CDs



K8JDC wrote:

 Some more data points:

1.  I cannot get the radio to malfunction on a dummy load.  I have 
only seen the problem on 40m when connected to the antenna which is a 
135-ft doublet fed with ladder line.  Tuner is a Tentec 238B and the 
tuner is right next to the TR-7.  That leads me to wonder if there's 
some RF from the balanced line that is part of the problem.


2.  I checked on 20m and don't see the problem on either a dummy load 
or my antenna which is a Steppir.  Output power is stable.


3.  The TR-7 forward meter goes to zero when the problem happens.  
Reflected indicator goes max scale.  So those readings are the same as 
my external meter.


4.  I hooked up my Tentec Orion to the same tuner/antenna and all is 
well.  No hint of anything wrong with the antenna.  Output power is 
totally stable.


5.  This problem happens on CW as well as SSB.  I have a toggle switch 
wired to key the radio for tuning and it will put out full power into 
the antenna for a few seconds and then the reflected power will go to 
infinity.  Power into the dummy load is fine.


6.  I did notice at least once that the problem occurred just as I 
unkeyed in CW mode.  So, just as I unkeyed, I saw the reflected power 
jump high.


So, the above leads me to wonder about the transmit relay.  I wondered 
if the contacts are somehow dirty but I don't see the problem on the 
dummy load so that leads me to wonder if the T/R relay is somehow 
being affected by some RF from the ladder line which is nearby.  It's 
not easily possible to separate the radio and tuner any more because 
of how my desk is laid out.  The ladder line comes out of the tuner 
and goes to the left to the outside world.  The TR-7 sits just to the 
right of the tuner so the ladder line does not go behind the radio 
although it's only about 10 inches away from the T/R relay when it 
exits the tuner.


??

Dave
K8JDC




___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info

[J. Steven Cochrane]

Also check for a broken lead somewhere in the ladder line as well as the 
connections at the antenna. The breaks can be hard to see sometimes, so you 
have to check very closely.
I have basically the same set-up with one of my TR7s but I use an MN75. When 
one of the leads breaks on the ladder line, depending on where it is 
located, it can cause strange indications in the shack due to RF radiation.

Steve w7jsc


- Original Message - 
From: "Don Cunningham" 
To: "K8JDC" ; 
Sent: Saturday, October 16, 2010 10:10 AM
Subject: Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info


> Dave,
> Do you have a good ground on your balanced line tuner??  I have those
> problems with my tuners and ladder line if I don't have a good ground 
> hooked
> up.
> 73,
> Don, WB5HAK
>
>
> ___
> Drakelist mailing list
> Drakelist@zerobeat.net
> http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist
> 

___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist

Re: [Drakelist] TR-7 - More Info

[Don Cunningham]

Dave,
Do you have a good ground on your balanced line tuner??  I have those 
problems with my tuners and ladder line if I don't have a good ground hooked 
up.

73,
Don, WB5HAK 



___
Drakelist mailing list
Drakelist@zerobeat.net
http://mailman.zerobeat.net/mailman/listinfo/drakelist