[Elecraft] KPA800/1500 pricing & evolutionary forces within our control

[wayne burdick]

For those of you who have noted that $5K+ is not cheap, a very brief 
history lesson and prediction follows.


1999:

- Elecraft's first transceiver was pretty big and sophisticated for a 
"QRP" rig.
  We gambled on this to get people's attention. The K2 then evolved in 
many directions.

  Subsequent transceivers were smaller and lower in cost, but benefitted
  from what we had learned.

2006:

- Elecraft's first amplifier is rather big and sophisticated.
  We're gambling on this to get people's attention. The amp will evolve 
in many directions.

  Subsequent models will be smaller and lower in cost, but will benefit
  from what we've learned.

:)

Wayne




http://www.elecraft.com


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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

[VR2BrettGraham]

W3FPR added:


I did not intend to say that you should disconnect your equipment from the
safety gound - only that you may need to supplment it with an RF ground at
the place where your equipment connects to the antenna system.  In other
words, both are necessary, and can work in conjunction with each other.


No, I don't think you did.

I have found RF ground to be pretty elusive, so don't bother.
Safety ground beyond mains leads sometimes makes things
worse, though has obvious downside.  With 220 volt mains,
a failure is more dangerous, though also more obvious.  The
overall situation must be kept in mind, but what I am saying
is that grounding as everyone thinks it has to be done is not
done here & therefore might be kept in mind when having to
tame RF nastiness in some situations.

Frequency of lightning even this far north drives the need
for total disconnect, so that mains lead safety ground
already there could be the place to stop & attention turned
to choking if near field isn't dominate.  Bonding of major
bits at least keeps case of failed box tied to a safety ground
that I keep an eye on (and usually helps tame the nasties).  A
compromise, but workable where no way to really build for
no-need-to-disconnect.

I don't think I'm implying giving up the safety ground (at least
not when operating), either.  If it gets too exciting, will have
already yanked everything, as the 1N5711s become
dominate. ;^)

Artificial ground plus choking could still be the ticket for
end-fed wires, etc.  I just find ground makes things worse
sometimes & I sit right under my antennas.  Like black
magic, RF is.  "Extra" grounding might not be your friend.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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Re: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

[VR2BrettGraham]

A general comment (N3CSY gave me something to ponder
over this morning's tea - cheers ;^)...

The trend in amps results in nifty products coming out like the
big KPAs, but some of the extra features beyond the core
function of amplifying add fair amount to BOM cost & drive
prices higher.

Likewise radios.  I sure hope any future K3-like product doesn't
go that way, too (unless I work again, that would be only thing
I probably will be able to afford ;^(...

Plug 'n play SO2R in an amp is probably about as important
to most of market as some potential features in a future Elecraft
radio.  A transfer relay & little bit of logic & I can SO2R a
Hercules, an amp that can drive higher SWRs safely - no
tuner, thank you (if I need one, I already have - besides,
really don't put power into any antenna that needs matching
close to shack-in-flat).  Likewise sniff-n-switch bandswitching.

Nice features, but wish they could have been options.  To keep
up with the market, that Herc is unlikely to be retired anytime
soon.  There's nothing solid-state, moderate power, robust &
not quite dear.  The same for radios, they've snowballed & not
much choice in really good radios that aren't dear.

Being able to fix the rig & keep it going are becoming even
more important, as already have had a reasonably recent
rig from major brand pop a now-obsolete part.  A very popular
first-string performance radio already has a critical unable-to-
obtain part - I shudder to think what I will do when some of the
custom-but-currently-still-available critical bits in some of
my other radios finally go.

Affordability (sp?), core function performance & serviceability
are the key attractions with Brand-E to me & hopefully can be
kept in mind with future products.  At first it might not sound so
flash or appealing, but for something beyond the K2 a divide
down-from-VHF PLL or more significant IF filtering & trickery is
generally of benefit to more compared to what it might cost
compared to some other feature (say adding VHF/UHF).  For
general coverage receive to work & not wilt in some
environments without a significant beefing up of things in
general is another example (something I would like but not at
expense of BOM cost or OOB rejection performance -
increasingly important for everyone).

Though for all I know, I'm in an insignificant market
demographic - but I hope someday there will be a reason to
have to ration precious rice money for a killer post-K2 rig!

73, VR2BrettGraham

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[Elecraft] KX1 - My First QRP QSO

[Jack Regan]

Elecraft Team,

Thanks to you and all your fans!

I just got my KX1 a few days ago and finished the basic unit and paddle
today.  I made my first QRP QSO tonight at 5:55 PM PDT from San Francisco to
Tehachapi, CA. off the side of my 40 meter trapped dipole (only 38’).  The
ant. is resonant at about 7.140 and I ran it thru an MFJ-969 tuner to get a
1 to 1 match.  

I bought the KX1 because I am going backpacking in Yosemite the 1st, 2nd,
and 3rd of June and I wanted to go lite weight.  I did a lot of research but
was anxious about the 2 to 4 watt output of the KX1.  In the final analysis
it was all the rave reviews of the KX1 users, including some I found over
the air that sold me on this rig.  

I love it!!

Hope to meet some of you on the air from Glacier Point and Tioga pass!

Jack Regan, AE6GC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.jackandginger.com

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[Elecraft] KPA100 Problem again

[Chris Hurlbut]

Some of you may remember my problem with the KPA100 not being recognized
by the K2 after a little mishap I had.

On the sound advice of a few on this list, I purchased a new 78L05 (U3),
EL5146 (U6) and a MAX1406 (U4).  I just swapped all of these out, and am
getting 5V in places I should now.  Probably U6 was bad.  The K2 is
still giving me a NO PA PS message with a PS plugged into the KPA100.
In fact, it's the ONLY PS plugged in.  The menu gives me an E12 and an
F1.10 whatever that is.  I did some measurements, and U1 is ok *except*
for these:

Pin 7:  .8v (Book says 4V with note 2, depends on PS voltage)
Pin 10: 2.25v (book says 2.4v, seems a *little* fishy?)
Pins 12, 13, 14: all 0.0v, book says 0.5V
Pin 26: 5v.  Book says 0v??  I checked it 3 times to see if I counted
wrong, but nope, that's the pin.  

So my question... is U1 bad, or is something that's feeding U1 bad??
Could it be something on the K2 control board?

Any ideas appreciated!
-Chris KL9A


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RE: [Elecraft] Filters: Update

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

On my website http://3fpr.qrpradio.com you will find an article on K2 dial
calibration.  Follow the steps to set the 4 MHz oscillator, run CAL PLL and
CAL FIL and you should be no more than 30 Hz off (you may have to go through
the process twice), it is worthwhile.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

I took the K2 #2735 out of my storage case and played around a bit. I
got it hooked up to Spectrogram and followed the instructions in the
PDF written by N0SS provided on the elecraft website. Most of the
filters were dead-on. The only one that was off for CW was the 2.4 khz
filter, which I adjusted. I sometimes use that filter so I can 'listen'
to what else is on the cw band (I know, I'm weird..)

I set the filters, in fact I changed my side tone from 750 hz to 600
hz. I was able to satisfactorily get the filters to work as they
should. I used the Elecraft noise generator to create the necessary
noise, and it has the SSB adapter in it.

I discovered another strange phenonenom. I was listening to W1AW on 40
meters. If I recall correctly, their signal is on 7.0475 mhz. Well, if
I zero beat the signal using the zero beat button, I found that it
would zero beat on 7.04762 mhz. Come to think of it, for the longest
time one of my friends would point out that my rig never seems to be on
the frequency that I have on the readout (I'll tell them to go to a
frequency.. they will and find that mine is off). It's been a long time
since I have picked up the k2 building manual. Does it sound like my
rig is off frequency? Is there a tuneup step or adjustment to make if
it is off frequency? Thanks!

73,

James Kern KB2FCV
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[Elecraft] Filters: Update

[james1787]

I took the K2 #2735 out of my storage case and played around a bit. I 
got it hooked up to Spectrogram and followed the instructions in the 
PDF written by N0SS provided on the elecraft website. Most of the 
filters were dead-on. The only one that was off for CW was the 2.4 khz 
filter, which I adjusted. I sometimes use that filter so I can 'listen' 
to what else is on the cw band (I know, I'm weird..)


I set the filters, in fact I changed my side tone from 750 hz to 600 
hz. I was able to satisfactorily get the filters to work as they 
should. I used the Elecraft noise generator to create the necessary 
noise, and it has the SSB adapter in it.


I discovered another strange phenonenom. I was listening to W1AW on 40 
meters. If I recall correctly, their signal is on 7.0475 mhz. Well, if 
I zero beat the signal using the zero beat button, I found that it 
would zero beat on 7.04762 mhz. Come to think of it, for the longest 
time one of my friends would point out that my rig never seems to be on 
the frequency that I have on the readout (I'll tell them to go to a 
frequency.. they will and find that mine is off). It's been a long time 
since I have picked up the k2 building manual. Does it sound like my 
rig is off frequency? Is there a tuneup step or adjustment to make if 
it is off frequency? Thanks!


73,

James Kern KB2FCV
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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

[Don Wilhelm]

Brett,

I did not intend to say that you should disconnect your equipment from the
safety gound - only that you may need to supplment it with an RF ground at
the place where your equipment connects to the antenna system.  In other
words, both are necessary, and can work in conjunction with each other.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

W3FPR continued from K9YC:

>Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there
is
>a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.
>The first is the Safety Ground which should be a low impedance path to
>earth - large conductors, lots of heavy guage wire buried in the earth and
>ground rods, and this must also be connected to the utility ground.
>Properly implemented it should serve a a lightning protection ground.
>
>The second is the RF Ground - and the Safety Ground may or may not suffice.
>Consider a good Safety Ground with an 8 foot connection from the antenna
>connection at the tuner - that combintion will likely produce a high
>impedance for RF at 10 meters, thus there will be no RF Ground at that
>frequency.  In such conditions, the use of quarterwave counterpoises for
>each troublesome band is in order.

Yes, important distinction & worth mentioning!

When not physically close to ground level, that safety ground
in the shack can bite you in the bum, such as in Don's example.
Few here can establish shack safety or antenna safety grounds
that are not going to do something untoward.

And antennas usually require roof access, a roof that often
has to be directly over your head (top floor flat).  This makes
RF in shack a big problem.

Computer keying, mic switching & voice keyers don't like RF.
In such an extreme environment, usually with no option to
move anything around, I have yet to try an artificial ground.

This despite four feeders plus few control cables running
straight into shack from series-fed roof tower as low band
vertical - common-mode chokes have always done the trick.
They also help keep noises from shack from getting back into
the antennas.

I could drop all the bonding between major boxes in the
shack (rigs, amps, switching gear), but that is my
solution for redundant safety ground when operating as
total disconnect is also practiced inside during lightning.  The
bonding also helps a bit with computer keying (often only way
to keep from latching key down when transmitting into the
roof tower vertical).

Few solar cycles of experience from two to 39 floors up here
that may help those in more pedestrian situations.  The
artificial ground is like what I am trying to avoid in the station,
so would really be a last resort & one that has yet to be
needed.  Saying that, I also will not use any end-fed wire or
similar antenna that is certain to be problematic - for a
temporary set-up where I had to use that sort of antenna then
an artificial ground could be the ticket but then certain to hear
that computer, telly, etc... unless near field dominates, choke
that common-mode stuff & you're likely to prevail.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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Re: [Elecraft] QRO/QRExpensive?

[Bob Nielsen]

On May 23, 2006, at 4:08 PM, Roland Whitsitt wrote:

A lot of us here will never be able to afford an amp if it's 5k.  I  
hope elecraft remembers that.  I bet most of us wouldn't mind less  
bells and whistles just to get a few hundred watts out there.
Maybe a poor-mans amp? to go with my buget tuner.  Just another idea.

Roland N5VWN k2#3090



Communications Concepts  sells  
pc boards and parts kits for several of the amps in the Motorola  
Application Notes series.  While they certainly don't have the  
Elecraft bells and whistles, they are tried and proven designs at  
reasonable cost.


Used tube amps are quite often available at good prices.  I picked up  
a Heathkit SB-200 (600W output) last year for <$300.


73 - Bob, N7XY


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Re: [Elecraft] QRO/QRExpensive?

[Thom R LaCosta]

On Tue, 23 May 2006, Ken Alexander wrote:


Same here.  At those prices the amps are completely
out of reach.

I understand the amps are of modular construction.  I
wonder if Elecraft would consider selling each module
separately?  That way you could buy and build one when
you can save the money, then buy another one when the
next payday comes around.


Maybe the Elecraft LayAway Shop.or a Christmas Club?

How about automatic wire transfers/deductions from your paycheck?


It might take a year or longer to acquire one that
way, but short of winning the lottery it's the only
way it's going to happen.


Let's see with taxes going up 300 percent here and electricity
72 percent, I'll have to either sell dope or rob banks to get
and amp.

73,Thom-k3hrn
www.zerobeat.net Home of QRP Web Ring, Drakelist home page,Drake Web Ring,
QRP IRC channel, Drake IRC Channel, Elecraft Owners Database
www.tlchost.net/hosting/  ***  Web Hosting as low as 3.49/month
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Re: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

[VR2BrettGraham]

W3FPR continued from K9YC:


Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there is
a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.
The first is the Safety Ground which should be a low impedance path to
earth - large conductors, lots of heavy guage wire buried in the earth and
ground rods, and this must also be connected to the utility ground.
Properly implemented it should serve a a lightning protection ground.

The second is the RF Ground - and the Safety Ground may or may not suffice.
Consider a good Safety Ground with an 8 foot connection from the antenna
connection at the tuner - that combintion will likely produce a high
impedance for RF at 10 meters, thus there will be no RF Ground at that
frequency.  In such conditions, the use of quarterwave counterpoises for
each troublesome band is in order.


Yes, important distinction & worth mentioning!

When not physically close to ground level, that safety ground
in the shack can bite you in the bum, such as in Don's example.
Few here can establish shack safety or antenna safety grounds
that are not going to do something untoward.

And antennas usually require roof access, a roof that often
has to be directly over your head (top floor flat).  This makes
RF in shack a big problem.

Computer keying, mic switching & voice keyers don't like RF.
In such an extreme environment, usually with no option to
move anything around, I have yet to try an artificial ground.

This despite four feeders plus few control cables running
straight into shack from series-fed roof tower as low band
vertical - common-mode chokes have always done the trick.
They also help keep noises from shack from getting back into
the antennas.

I could drop all the bonding between major boxes in the
shack (rigs, amps, switching gear), but that is my
solution for redundant safety ground when operating as
total disconnect is also practiced inside during lightning.  The
bonding also helps a bit with computer keying (often only way
to keep from latching key down when transmitting into the
roof tower vertical).

Few solar cycles of experience from two to 39 floors up here
that may help those in more pedestrian situations.  The
artificial ground is like what I am trying to avoid in the station,
so would really be a last resort & one that has yet to be
needed.  Saying that, I also will not use any end-fed wire or
similar antenna that is certain to be problematic - for a
temporary set-up where I had to use that sort of antenna then
an artificial ground could be the ticket but then certain to hear
that computer, telly, etc... unless near field dominates, choke
that common-mode stuff & you're likely to prevail.

73, VR2BrettGraham

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RE: [Elecraft] uh, you know

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

The base of Q8 is very low - it should be about the same as Q7.  Check the
components of the base circuit for proper values and proper soldering.  Use
the schematic to identify the components.

Your DMM is showing the forward voltage of the diodes.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

I rechecked Q5 base and collector values and they are as I stated.
W1 remains at 40V on xmit.
I do not have a wattmeter.

Now, I am going down the DC voltage tables for the RF board.  So far,
D1 thru Q2 are normal.

I am confused by the directions.  Directions are for receive unless
specified, zero AF, mid set RF gain.  If, as you instruct, I turn
power down to zero to read DC, then Q5 collector is zero, as is B, C
and E of Q6.  Am I wrong, or is this to be expected when power is at
zero?  If getting DC readings on transmit is fruitful, based on what
you told me, how do I proceed to get accurate TRANSMIT DC readings?

Here are "Transmit, Mixer, Buffer, Band-Pass Filter, T-R Switch
readings from page 14 of troubleshooting.
(Power set at 2)

RF readings:
2. Xmit Mixer OutputExpected.016 Vrms   Actual  .03
3. Buffer Output:   Expected.2  Actual  
.211
4. Band-Pass Filter Output  .03 
.35
5. T-R Switch Output.029
.011

Pre-driver, Driver and PA
1. Pre-Driver OutputExpected.120Actual  .11
2. Driver Output.026
.16
3. Driver Output1.8 
3.6
4. PA Input Q7  .38 
.82
5, PA Input Q8  .38 
.04
6. RF Detector Input2   
.7

7. PA Transistor Tests
Q7&Q8
positive lead on base:  Expected at emitter and collector:  
.6
Actual  .537

negative lead on base:  Expected at emitter 1.3 Actual  
.511
Expected at collector   
>3  Actual  "OL"

My PA voltage is too high and Detector voltage is too low: indicating
defective PA transistor(s).  Does the above test eliminate them as
the culprit?

Note: On my DMM, diode test shows "v" not "k"...the values seem to
match but is this voltage or resistance?



John
AB8WH
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Re: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

[Ian Stirling]

  CW only, optimized, completely analogue, airspaced variable capacitor tuned,
quality mechanical reduction (not planetary), mono-band, single conversion,
preferably Top Band first, transceiver.
  I'm working on it myself -  bought twelve 15"x12" double sided copper clad
boards at $4.25 per board for the rest of my lifetime needs.
 TUF-3 mixers soon, or maybe I should use a 6JH8 beam deflection mixer hybrid
like the Practical Wireless 'Epson' in September 1974 by G4AR (SK).

  The K2 is good, but typically too digital nowadays.

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR, K2 #4962 (born in 1956)
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Re: [Elecraft] QRO/QRExpensive?

[Ken Alexander]

Same here.  At those prices the amps are completely
out of reach.  

I understand the amps are of modular construction.  I
wonder if Elecraft would consider selling each module
separately?  That way you could buy and build one when
you can save the money, then buy another one when the
next payday comes around.

It might take a year or longer to acquire one that
way, but short of winning the lottery it's the only
way it's going to happen.

73 - Ken


--- Roland Whitsitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> A lot of us here will never be able to afford an amp
> if it's 5k.  I hope 
> elecraft remembers that.  I bet most of us wouldn't
> mind less bells and 
> whistles just to get a few hundred watts out there. 
>  Maybe a poor-mans amp? 
> to go with my buget tuner.  Just another idea.
> Roland N5VWN k2#3090 
> 
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> 

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[Elecraft] uh, you know

[John Wiener]

Hi Gary,

RE: k2

I rechecked Q5 base and collector values and they are as I stated.   
W1 remains at 40V on xmit.

I do not have a wattmeter.

Now, I am going down the DC voltage tables for the RF board.  So far,  
D1 thru Q2 are normal.


I am confused by the directions.  Directions are for receive unless  
specified, zero AF, mid set RF gain.  If, as you instruct, I turn  
power down to zero to read DC, then Q5 collector is zero, as is B, C  
and E of Q6.  Am I wrong, or is this to be expected when power is at  
zero?  If getting DC readings on transmit is fruitful, based on what  
you told me, how do I proceed to get accurate TRANSMIT DC readings?


Here are "Transmit, Mixer, Buffer, Band-Pass Filter, T-R Switch  
readings from page 14 of troubleshooting.

(Power set at 2)

RF readings:
2. Xmit Mixer OutputExpected.016 Vrms   Actual  .03
3. Buffer Output:   Expected.2  Actual  
.211
4. Band-Pass Filter Output  .03 
.35
5. T-R Switch Output.029
.011

Pre-driver, Driver and PA
1. Pre-Driver OutputExpected.120Actual  .11
2. Driver Output.026
.16
3. Driver Output1.8 
3.6
4. PA Input Q7  .38 
.82
5, PA Input Q8  .38 
.04
6. RF Detector Input2   
.7

7. PA Transistor Tests  
Q7&Q8
	positive lead on base:		Expected at emitter and collector:	.6	 
Actual	.537


negative lead on base:  Expected at emitter 1.3 Actual  
.511
Expected at collector   >3
   Actual  "OL"

My PA voltage is too high and Detector voltage is too low: indicating  
defective PA transistor(s).  Does the above test eliminate them as  
the culprit?


Note: On my DMM, diode test shows "v" not "k"...the values seem to  
match but is this voltage or resistance?




John
AB8WH 
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

[Bob Nielsen]

On May 23, 2006, at 4:24 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

In a message dated 5/23/06 11:47:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

writes:


Don't use 6146's!  two Raytheon 4D32's would do the job much  
better.  They

are
as cheap as 6146's now.



Actually, one 4D32 has almost the power rating of two 6146s. Two  
4D32s could

probably due 200W easy.



I recall that the 4D32 was pretty expensive back in the 1950s, while  
6146s were much cheaper.  Things change.  The Johnson Viking I (4D32)  
was rated at 150W input (CW) and the Viking II (2x6146) was rated at  
180 watts input.  My first kit was a Viking II plus external VFO  
(1953).   Three 6146s would probably also do 200W output.  I would  
suggest that anyone building a rig with either tube purchase several  
spares while they are still available.


73 - Bob, N7XY


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

[N2EY]

In a message dated 5/23/06 12:16:14 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> One reason Elecraft (or any other manufactor of kits) would be unlikely to
> offer tube amps is that they don't want builders putting "der fusin blowing
> fingers" in a rig with a kilovolt B plus supply.  Or multi kv supply for
> high power (QROo?) amps.  One big advantage of solid state rigs.

Well, sort of.

An amp of any serious power will require house current of considerable 
wattage, and 120 or 240 will kill you stone cold dead if you get careless.

On top of that, the current levels of SS power amplifiers are rather serious. 
To produce 1500W of RF out requires about 3000W DC input or more. If the 
supply is 50 volts, that's 60 amps or more. Get a ring or other metal object 
across that and you can fry off a finger or worse. Get a tool across it and the 
sparks and flying molten metal can be a hazard to your sight, while the boom 
can 
be dangerous to your hearing.

The dangers are different but the precautions are the same.

73 de Jim, N2EY


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Re: [Elecraft] Who is P40A?

[Bill Coleman]

On May 23, 2006, at 9:38 AM, Darwin, Keith wrote:

Last night on 40 meters, there was a pile up on this S9+20dB  
signal.  He

was sending pretty fast - P40A (or was it P40N?).


P40A. I worked him, too.

He wasn't S9+20. More like S9+40 here in Georgia. Sometimes he lit up  
every segment of the S-meter.


Working him was easy. He had a TON of callers, so it isn't surprising  
he needed some repeats. I put in a late call, he came back to AA4R, I  
resent my call twice and he came back with the correction. He was a  
quick and efficient op.



  I gave him a call.
He came back to another station.  After the next QRZ, I called, paused
then called twice.  He came back to me ...

KD1E?

I answered KD1E KD1E 5nn 5nn BK


You should have just sent the call twice.


He answered KD1E?
I slowed just a bit and repeated KD1E KD1E KD1E  5nn 5nn 5nn BK


You didn't have to slow down, you should have just sent the call twice.


KD1E QSL 5nn TU.

So who is this?  A DXpedition?


Likely someone warming up for the CQ WPX CW this weekend.

And more importantly where do you find info on stations like this -  
you
know, the ones with the odd calls that appear and disappear from  
time to

time.


There are lots of DX bulletins, most of which you have to pay for.

Perhaps the most up-to-date source is the DX packetcluster (although  
most people access it through the internet these days).


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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[Elecraft] FS Palm K2 Controller and logging package

[Chuck Gehring]

For Sale: Palm Vx. Logging and Radio Controller package
with charging/sync cradle,
Wall Wart power supply,
Hard carrying case,
Palm folding keyboard,
Travel charging/sync cable,
Gender Changer,
NK0E Serial CW Sender Interface,
and Triple-pen-pencil-stylus pen.

Pre-loaded with NK0E “GoLog” (version 1.2.5 loaded and tested)
K2 Logger, (works with Elecraft K2 to control rig and logging)
Mini-Log,
QSO-73,
Band Plan,
HF Log,
and ARS Spartan Sprint,
Complete Palm software on disk and documentation.

$65 shipped within CONUS
Pictures on request of complete package
Contact Offline [EMAIL PROTECTED]
73 KI4DGH
Chuck Gehring

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[Elecraft] cheap amps

[Roland Whitsitt]

If Armitron would put thier 600 or 800 amp in kit form with elecraft 
quality intructions, I'd be very happy to buy it.  The idea being 
affordable and build it myself.  For now I'll just hang on.
73's Roland N5VWN
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Re: [Elecraft] QRO/QRExpensive?

[Lee Buller]

Roland (and others),
   
  While I agree with your point, the fact of the matter is that Elecraft was 
responding to the needs of a contest amplifier.  Yes, the amp is out of my 
league financially, but it still fits a marketing niche.  More power to them.  
Cheap amps can be purchase down the block from Amer. or on Ebay that work 
quite well with the K2 even in portable applications.
   
  This is such a tight niche market, I was surprised that Elecraft made the 
move to make the amps anyway.  Great amp.  Great features.  Impressive.  I will 
have to waint until my ship comes inmeantime, I will continue to row the 
dingy.
   
  Lee - K0WA
   


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some and use it.  If you can't find any common 
sense, ask for help from somebody who has some common sense.
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RE: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

[Howard W. Ashcraft]

I don't think Wayne and Eric necessarily need my thoughts on their
business plan...they seem to be doing quite well as it is.  However, my
two bits on future is that I would rather see a few, elegant projects
than a project for every interest.  What Elecraft has done well is to
focus on the "elegant" portion of design, from the perspective that
designs are elegant when they are simple and highly effective.  This
generally means focusing on performance and simplifying interfaces.  It
takes a lot of engineering (and cost) to create fancy interfaces that do
not improve basic performance of the receiver, transceiver or test
instrument.

So, I think the mini-modules are good ideas, but test equipment in
general is not.  As a practical matter, you can buy extremely good used
test equipment at a fraction of the original price if you want to go in
that direction.  (Ask my xyl whether it is possible for someone to buy
lots of used test equipment...)  I seriously doubt you could build an
oscilloscope kit that rivals either the Tek 7000 series or the Tek
portables for anywhere near their current prices.  Ditto for signal
generators if you include wide coverage, modulation options, precision
output and frequency control.  And then there is the calibration
issue...

And while I will continue to buy Elecraft gear (if there is a K3, I'm a
clear candidate), I also think that it is good for the amateur community
to have a variety of quality products/kits available.  If you are
interested in an swr/vector power meter, look at the LP-100 that is just
being released.  There are also some nice kits available if you are
happy with surface mount.  (Actually, I find surface mount to be pretty
straight forward, even with my 54 year old eyes and would like to have
had my KX-1 as a surface mount kit.)  I'm also quite impressed with the
Buddipole products carried by Elecraft, as well.  So, I like the
approach of Elecraft working on core projects and supporting related
projects by other designers and manufacturers.  (Buddipole, Heil)

>From my perspective, I would like to see Elecraft address performance
issues in the K2, such as the SSB board, noise blanker, and the birdies,
especially in the K2/100.  I'm looking into quieting the audio on the
K2, which may turn out to be useful.  The user interface could also use
improvement so that it doesn't require remembering button press
sequences and remembers settings across bands.  A slave receiver based
on the K2 would also be an interesting project.  I'm also probably going
to build a small linear for the KX-1 because I get very frustrated
listening to people who don't answer...  But I think that may be a
homebrew.

Summary:

1)  Elecraft is great.
2)  But the amateur community needs more than one option
3)  Elecraft should stick to "elegant" gear
4)  And support quality related products

Ok, it was 4 bits.

Howard Ashcraft, W1WF

-Original Message-
From: Fred (FL) [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 5:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

K2/K1 Owner-builders

I posted a "Elecraft New Product Ideas" email last week - which received
mixed responses - "good", "old stuff", "too difficult for Elecraft",
"done that ", "won't work", etc.

I think Elecraft is a great ham company.  And as every builder knows -
their support to us the ham community - is superb!  And their quality of
products and kits is excellent and higher.

I'd suggest, we K1/K2 builders - continue to send in "product ideas" to
Elecraft, via this email list - and let Elecraft Management know, what
product ideas we'd like to see and what product ideas might help us in
our amateur endeavors.  We might be surprised, and see some of them come
to reality.  If they have to hire another designer & tech or two, so be
it.

If you like the product(s) which Elecraft now markets and sells - I
myself, would like to continue to buy my next products from them too.
Frankly I've never been fully satisfied with MFJ items - for some reason
many of them look aluminish and of poorer quality.

BUY ELECRAFT, TELL ELECRAFT WHAT YOU'D LIKE and WHAT YOU THINK WOULD BE
HELPFUL, FOR OUR HOBBY!

My Kits - short list 5/23/2006:
- outboard RF OUTPUT METER Indicator (in-line)
- inboard RF OUTPUT INDICATOR (panel, neon/eye)
- outboard POWER METER (ala Birdy), w/SWR option
- poor man's 6146 200w PEP outboard TUBE AMPLIFIER
(relive your youth) (FCC ham-project form)
- matching Elecraft 6146 AMP POWER SUPPLY
- 200w match-anything TUNER (coils, meters, R/L/C's)
- a HF K3 TRANSCEIVER, with general coverage, 2  
meter, 440, and bigger footprint & displays
- an Elecraft K2/K3 MOBILE MIKE, w/up-down, functions
- an Elecraft quality, HEADPHONE set, K1/K2/K3
- a couple HF porta-ANTENNAs, back pack carryable
- a "hide-able" HF ANTENNA (gutter?, bush?)
- Elecraft Mobile VERTICAL ANTENNA (hf, tuneable)
- Elecraft SCOPE for alignment jobs
- Elecraft SIGNAL GENERATOR, for al

RE: [Elecraft] Filter Waveform

[Don Wilhelm]

Julius,

As I recall, Saturday afternoon and late Sunday morning were the slower
times.  Of course, I was busy with the KX1 build and was not able to pay
attention to everything that was going on = my attention was directed to
those who had qustions about the build process, soldering questions and
toroid winding/stripping questions.

Tom Hammond (N0SS) has some screencapture images of the K2 filters as
displayed on Spectrogram - www.n0ss.net - take a look.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

Glad to see Elecraft was mobbed at Dayton. Wish I
could have hung around for a slow period, but there
didn't seem to be one while I was there... ;O)

Does anyone have pictures of the spectrogram waveforms
of a K2 on CW? Just curious what others see.

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn


--
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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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Re: [Elecraft] QRO/QRExpensive?/ RF WOES

[Curt]

This coupled with the RF topic seems appropriate because running an amplifier I 
have RF no matter what in the world I do, and I tried everything under the sun.
 As was mentioned my shack is on the upper floor level with the antenna system 
outside and not far away which is the real problem. I hate RF and can 
understand another ham’s frustration with RF woes.

As far as an amplifier: Doesn't matter if it cost one grand or ten either way 
an amplifier would wipe out the entire house with RF shutting down the dish, 
computers, telephone and anything else electronic therefore 100 watts is all 
I'll ever run because at 100 watts I never have RF problems. Recently been 
running one watt and under with my K2/100 and not seeing much difference in 
contacts versus the 110 watts this set will do, now I wonder why I went with 
the 100 version:)


Good Luck with the RF problems. All the advice in the world didn't help me, 
only thing I didn't try was an exorcist.

Curt/k3ey

K2/100



Roland Whitsitt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: A lot of us here will never be able 
to afford an amp if it's 5k.  I hope 
elecraft remembers that.  I bet most of us wouldn't mind less bells and 
whistles just to get a few hundred watts out there.   Maybe a poor-mans amp? 
to go with my buget tuner.  Just another idea.
Roland N5VWN k2#3090 

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

[N2EY]

In a message dated 5/23/06 11:47:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
writes:


> Don't use 6146's!  two Raytheon 4D32's would do the job much better.  They 
> are
> as cheap as 6146's now.
> 

Actually, one 4D32 has almost the power rating of two 6146s. Two 4D32s could 
probably due 200W easy.

73 de Jim, N2EY
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[Elecraft] Filter Waveform

[J F]

Hello All,

Glad to see Elecraft was mobbed at Dayton. Wish I
could have hung around for a slow period, but there
didn't seem to be one while I was there... ;O)

Does anyone have pictures of the spectrogram waveforms
of a K2 on CW? Just curious what others see.

Cheers,
Julius
n2wn

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Re: [Elecraft] DX News and two questions

[Stephen W. Kercel]

Bekir:

Since many operators communicate from ships, cars and airplanes in 
motion, you should be able to operate from a train in motion. 
Obviously if the train car is metal, an indoor antenna would be 
ineffective. Can you mount a mobile whip on the exterior of the car? 
Would clearance through tunnels and bridges be a problem? If you need 
to be low to the roof on a metal roofed rail car, it might be 
possible to construct a DDRR  (information available on various Web 
sites) antenna for 15 or 20 meters on the rooftop. (Big problem: 
you'd need a very high voltage capacitor to tune the antenna.)


With respect to long haul QRP DX:

You did not mention the height of your inverted-V antenna. If the 
apex is low, say 5 or 6 meters above the ground, then it will be very 
difficult to work consistent long haul DX with a QRP rig.


However, it most definitely is possible to transmit a consistently 
readable signal between Turkey and North America using 5 watts and 
simple antennas.  On 14 MHz I use a straight dipole 12 meters above 
ground, and on 21/10.1/7 MHz I use a straight fan dipole 10 meters 
above the ground. From my QTH in Maine, using 5 Watts, on all four 
bands I have worked many stations both in and near Turkey, including 
A4, A6 and A7 stations through pileups. By reciprocity, if people in 
your region can hear my 5 Watt signal, then we should be able to hear yours.


Several things you should consider:

1) Favorable propagation is critical to QRP long haul DXing. Use a 
propagation program like VOACAP to find the predicted times and 
frequencies of openings to the regions that you wish to contact. 
Also, check http://dx.qsl.net/propagation/ for real-time conditions; 
if the K index is over 3 or the A index is over 7, you will have a 
very hard time working long haul QRP DX. On the other hand, if both A 
and K are 2 or less you should see some spectacular worldwide 
openings. To verify current conditions, check the NCDXF/IARU beacons 
(for information see http://www.ncdxf.org/Beacon/BeaconSchedule.html 
) Each beacon sends long dashes at 100, 10, 1 and 0.1 Watt. If you 
can hear the QRP dashes, operators in that region should be able to hear you.


2) Although you hear the occasional story of people making a 
spectacular DX contact with a few milliWatts to a short wire in the 
attic, in reality those occurrences are rare. If you want consistent 
QRP DX, get your antenna 10 meters up or higher, and minimize your 
overall system losses, by using good quality coax with relatively few 
breaks and good weather sealing.


3) It is important to get your signal well centered into the passband 
of the receiving station. If you're using a K2 or another rig with 
split VFO capability, and you hear a station with whom you want a QSO 
having a QSO with somebody else, then adjust your transmit VFO to 
have a precise zero-beat with the station with whom the desired 
station is communicating. Then your signal will be at its maximum 
strength in the desired station's passband. When that QSO is 
finished, you can call, and the desired station is very likely to 
hear you. (On CW, people calling 100-200 Hz off the passband 
frequency will be perceived by the receiving station as being 10 dB 
or so down compared to what they would be if they were centered in 
the passband.)


4) Do not forget the DX effect. Many North American operators 
consider Turkey to be semi-rare. If people can hear you at all, they 
will want a QSO.


BTW, if you figure out how to work East Asia (excluding Japan) on 
QRP, let me know how you do it.


Good luck and 73,

Steve
AA4AK




At 05:13 PM 5/23/2006, Bekir Kemal Ataman wrote:

Hi,

Here is some brand new first hand news to Elecrafters.

This year is the 150th anniversary of railways in Turkey. So I am planning
two major events.

One will be to broadcast from Haydar Pasha train station, which is
celebrating its 100th year, with the callsign TC150HP. I hope to be on the
air between 30 May (the day construction began at Haydar Pasha station)
untill 30 June, in my SPARE TIME, whenever that may be.

The other will be from several train stations around the country with the
callsign TC150DD (TCDD is the abbreviation for Turkish Republic State
Railways), between 23 August and 23 September (the day the railways were
first built). In doing this I was wondering whether I could also transmit
from train wagons as a "rail mobile" station. It is obvious I cannot do
this from electric powered trains. However on diesel or steam (if there is
any left around) powered trains, I cannot think of any reason why this
should not be possible. I am sure this must have been tried in earlier
years of HAM radio but I haven't come accross any mentions of it in my
limited HAM life since 1999, the year of the catastrophic earthquake in
Turkey which led me into radio communications. Is it possible at all to
work from a train in motion?

The second question relates to stations in Americas and Oceania. With my
QRP K2 and

Re: [Elecraft] Tracking Down Stray RF

[Stuart Rohre]

Roy, I hate to mention the obvious, but I have never had RF in the shack 
with balanced antennas and good feedlines, ie no problem with jumpers, etc.

Usually RF in the shack has a cause.  Some cable is nearing quarter wave; 
the mike connector is loose and not grounding.  The power leads to rig are 
not twisted or shielded (or both).  The power leads being too small a 
conductor have inductance and load up on the problem band.

Over some 49 years of hamming, unbalanced antennas usually have a problem 
with stray RF at some point.  Returning balance by ground plane, 
counterpoise wire, quarter wave off ground post, etc. usually cures that. 
You may need quarterwave for both 30m and 60m.  Don't overlook shack too 
close to unbalanced antenna, ie on upper floor near antenna overhead.

GL,
Stuart
K5KVH 


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[Elecraft] QRO/QRExpensive?

[Roland Whitsitt]

A lot of us here will never be able to afford an amp if it's 5k.  I hope 
elecraft remembers that.  I bet most of us wouldn't mind less bells and 
whistles just to get a few hundred watts out there.   Maybe a poor-mans amp? 
to go with my buget tuner.  Just another idea.
Roland N5VWN k2#3090 


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[Elecraft] Re: DX News and two questions

[John Harper]

I have got a feeling I am either in the air at the

wrong times to hear many of them or that they are just too far away for my
simple setting. Ideas?


Hello Bekir,

That sounds like a great idea you have there. Regarding propagation & which 
bands to use to talk to a specific part of the world, I recommend that you 
periodically look at this link:


http://www.dxwatch.com/dxsd.php?f=1298

This is a list of DX spots between Turkey and the US, indicating time and 
band of stations in these countries hearing/working each other. From the 
home page (www.dxwatch.com) you can make "filters" for other areas of the 
world (click on "create your filter"). By checking this list at different 
times of the day, several days a week, you will get an idea of which band 
and which time will be best for a given area. There will be variations of 
course due to solar conditions and many other variables, but it will help 
give you a rough idea of band-time-area.


73,

John Harper AE5X
Portable QRP: http://www.ae5x.com




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[Elecraft] Tracking Down Stray RF

[Roy Morris]

I disconnected the earth ground to the KAT100 and connected a 23.4 foot length 
of wire to the KAT100 ground lug last night.  The tuner displayed only the 
leftmost LED at 100 watts on 30 meters.  At that time I noticed a very slight 
erratic LED behavior on 60 meters.  I thought for the mostpart I had solved my 
erratic LED problem.  Today I found the LEDs were again erratic on 30 meters 
with this 30 meter counterpoise. 
An interesting observationwith no ground or counterpoise the KAT100 at 100 
watts on all bands shows no signs of stray RF except on 30 meters and tunes to 
1:1 on all bands (even 30 meters).  The Bird meter verifies that 100 watts 
forward and maybe one watt reflected is going between the K2/100 and the KAT100 
which terminates into my Carolina Windom 80. Because the Carolina Windom is an 
off-center fed antenna, this imbalance may be the cause.
I removed the counterpoise and reconnected the earth ground.  I feel like Don 
Quixote chasing windmills.  Thanks to all who made suggestions.  Roy Morris  
W4WFBNo virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.7.0/345 - Release Date: 5/22/2006
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas (logger)

[Ian Stirling]

On Tuesday 23 May 2006 17:25, Phil Kane wrote:

>   A device that can plug into a computer USB port and read out
>   the computer UTC time (RTC) in large digits.

Phil,

  Have you investigated GPS clocks?
Google comes up with lots.
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=gps+clock&btnG=Google+Search

Ian, G4ICV, AB2GR
--
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas (logger)

[Phil Kane]

On Tue, 23 May 2006 17:05:19 EDT, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

>How about a module that plugs into the radio (exterior unit)
>that logs?  When done you come home and download into the
>computer at home.

  Not exactly an Elecraft item, something that would help my
  logging:

  A device that can plug into a computer USB port and read out
  the computer UTC time (RTC) in large digits.  I can't use the
  "atomic clocks" sold by Radio Shack or MFJ because I don't get
  a consistent WWVB signal in my underground comm room (ham shack)
  and taking them upstairs every week or two go get them calibrated
  is a pain.

--
   73 de K2ASP - Phil Kane
   Elecraft K2/100   5402



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[Elecraft] DX News and two questions

[Bekir Kemal Ataman]

Hi,

Here is some brand new first hand news to Elecrafters.

This year is the 150th anniversary of railways in Turkey. So I am planning
two major events.

One will be to broadcast from Haydar Pasha train station, which is
celebrating its 100th year, with the callsign TC150HP. I hope to be on the
air between 30 May (the day construction began at Haydar Pasha station)
untill 30 June, in my SPARE TIME, whenever that may be.

The other will be from several train stations around the country with the
callsign TC150DD (TCDD is the abbreviation for Turkish Republic State
Railways), between 23 August and 23 September (the day the railways were
first built). In doing this I was wondering whether I could also transmit
from train wagons as a "rail mobile" station. It is obvious I cannot do
this from electric powered trains. However on diesel or steam (if there is
any left around) powered trains, I cannot think of any reason why this
should not be possible. I am sure this must have been tried in earlier
years of HAM radio but I haven't come accross any mentions of it in my
limited HAM life since 1999, the year of the catastrophic earthquake in
Turkey which led me into radio communications. Is it possible at all to
work from a train in motion?

The second question relates to stations in Americas and Oceania. With my
QRP K2 and inverted V dipole setting, I had QSOs with almost all of Europe
(the most difficult of which was with Ireland), North Africa, Middle East,
Eastern Black Sea and many parts of Russia, as well as quite a few stations
(probably big guns) in Japan. However, I have never heard any stations from
Australia, New Zealand, Central America nor Eastern Asia. I have heard one
or two stations from the US (but not from Canada), Indonesia, South Africa
and South America but could not get them to hear my QRP signals over the
pile-up. So, I was wondering if it is at all possible for me to have QSOs
with these countries. I have got a feeling I am either in the air at the
wrong times to hear many of them or that they are just too far away for my
simple setting. Ideas?

BTW, if I can get the "rail mobile" station to work properly, I will
(hopefully) be broadcasting from 9 portable and 9 "rail mobile" locations.
With the addition of a few other TC150xx stations, I have got a feeling I
can turn this into an award setting, where stations contacting say 10 of
these settings will be issued an award. What do you reckon? (Ooops, this
has become the third question .) Is it worth looking for sponsors?

Thanking you in advance for your help.

73!
de TA2RX

--
Bekir Kemal Ataman
ArchiMac BBS Sysop & Webmaster 


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[Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas (logger)

[ARDUJENSKI]

How about a module that plugs into the radio (exterior unit) that logs?  When 
done you come home and download into the computer at home.  

Alan  KB7MBI
Woodinville, WA


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Re: [Elecraft] QRO

[Robert McGwier]

You should have seen the look of mischievous delight in his face while 
he was telling me this story for the first time.  You are having too 
much fun.


73's
Bob
N4HY


Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft wrote:
Actually the APT ARF463 is a better device. It has been an excellent, 
and rugged, device for use in the KPA800 and KPA1500 amps. It has been 
very hard to kill in our destructive testing.  The only time I've 
blown one up was when I forgot to screw it down to the heat sink! (It 
made a great firecracker in that mode of operation.. :-)




--- snip  ---

73, Eric   WA6HHQ





--
AMSAT VP Engineering. Member: ARRL, AMSAT-DL, TAPR, Packrats,
NJQRP/AMQRP, QRP ARCI, QCWA, FRC. ARRL SDR Wrk Grp Chairman
Laziness is the number one inspiration for ingenuity.  Guilty as charged!

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A shared vision? Was:Re: [Elecraft] QRO

[Able2fly]

 
Eric...all these suggestions and ideas for future product!  Goes to show a 
lot of us are ready for more more more. Is there any chance we  might soon 
(ever) see an all out transceiver designed expressly for  the contester/dx'er 
to go 
along with the new amps?  I know you wouldn't  want to be specific but I know 
100's of us on here would like to hear a  little about the company's vision 
for the future. C'mon, tease  us...
 
73 de K3UJ

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[Elecraft] Begali contacts - old thread reprise...

[Lloyd Lachow]

Dan, KB6NU, just brought the Begali contacts thread from this past
March to my attention, and I hope it's not too late to weigh in:

I've had all of the Begali keys, and helped a bunch of others with
theirs. When we got them, the gap had to be changed often, close one
day, not so close the next. I had a conversation with Bob Crane (W8SX,
not Col. Hogan,) who learned me that the contacts should be slightly
convex and as smooth as possible, to minimize the effects of
atmospheric changes on the contact characteristics. He also provided
me with a set of a few different grades of fine, abrasive paper, to
use on the contacts.

I've treated about 10-12 keys with this method, and never seen it not
dramatically improve the paddle's performance. The entire process
takes about 15-20 minutes, if you take your time. My keys can be set
quite close now, and do not need further adjustment.

These keys all had the old-style alloy contacts, which were relatively
flat and rough. I haven't heard of this problem occurring with the
new, gold-plated contacts, though.

LL/K3ESE
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[Elecraft] KX1 on 80 meters from KL7CW

[Frederick Dwight]

Hello Wayne,
My KX1 works great here in Alaska. I do not hear much CW activity here in 
Alaska nowit is light 24 hours a day and our sunset is near midnight !  I 
suspect things will improve next fall.  The FISTS magazine lists many slow and 
high speed CW nets over the entire CW band.  I suspect that most of them will 
welcome visitors.  I have checked into Oregon Section CW net several times and 
they have welcomed me with my 3 watt KX1 and even gave me good signal reports 
(over 1700 miles). I also occasionally check into the Alaska SSB nets with my 
KX1 and have always been welcomed.  I will probably do this at least once a 
month to keep them on their toes if anyone should need to pass emergency CW to 
SSB traffic.  Antenna is a inverted with apex up 45 feet.  The internal tuner 
keeps the SWR below 2:1 through most of the CW and Phone band.  Had a nice long 
QSO with a fellow in central California and he could not believe I was only 
running 3 wats !!!
   I have heard Montana and Colorado QRP stations recently, but suspect that 
they would have difficulty hearing me.  We often have low QRN levels here in AK 
so even with QRO I can hear much better on 160 and 80 meters than folks can 
hear me.  
   My KX1 and inverted vee put out a killer signal out to several hundred miles 
here in Alaska nearly every evening. Example S9 plus 20 db from a station 50 
miles away.
  One more idealisten in the evenings from about 3700 to perhaps 3730On 
several occasions I have heard very slow speed QSO's mostly W7's and W6's.  
 I have a requesthas anyone experimented with field antenna lengths for 
use on 80 meters.  When I travel to Europe I always take my KX1 and now suspect 
that 80 meters may be a very good band.  A full size antenna is out of the 
question and I would like to avoid an external antenna tuner if posible.  If 
not, I will do some modeling with my computer program and try some tests in the 
field.  
   If anyone on the West coast wants to start up an evening ECN net after 
QRN levels decrease in the fall I will be a regular check in.  I would do it, 
but with our often poor propagation in Alaska, and with my other obligations, 
someone else would be a better choice.  
   RickKL7CW   Palmer,  Alaska 
 

 
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[Elecraft] The KXPD1-K2 module in action ... a Dayton purchase ...

[Weymouth Walker]

Photos and a slightly blurry video clip of the above are here ...

http://weywalker.home.mindspring.com/

I modified my KXPD1 to incorporate a "Touch Paddle" kit ...
the paddle seems to be very secure on the K2's bail, even to my
heavy hand ...

Thanks Elecraft, for yet another neat product!

73, Weymouth Walker (Wey) ...
K8EAB
Metro Atlanta, GA



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[Elecraft] PowerBook/Rigblaster/K2

[Slater Tubman]

Thanks to the several who responded to my earlier question as to what  
is needed to make the above function in digital modes.  I tried to  
answer each one who responded off of the reflector, but some have  
been bounced, so I hope that you will hear this way.


I finally got it figured out.  I had to install a second USB-Serial  
adapter on my Powerbook and connect it to the Rigblaster serial port,  
leaving my KIO2 cable on another USB-Serial adapter and connected to  
the KIO2 port on the K2.  I now transmit fine on cocoaModem (what a  
nice program).  Likely a part of my confusion was the lack of ports  
available on the laptop.  USB hubs save the day.


Thanks again for your reply.

73

Slater  VE5OA
Wolseley, SK Canada
K2 - 4519

If there is a glaring error in the above, please let me know. 
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Re: [Elecraft] Who is P40A?

[Earl W Cunningham]

Keith, KD1E wrote:

"So who is this?  A DXpedition?"
==
P40A is John, KK9A on Aruba warming up for the CW WPX contest this coming
weekend.  QSL via WD9DZV.
--

"And more importantly where do you find info on stations like this?"
==
In the DX bulletins.  ARRL's weekly DX bulletin is free via e-mail to
members.

73, de Earl, K6SE
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Re: [Elecraft] 80-m KX1 QSOs?

[Kevin Rock]

You have a discerning antenna; working folks in Washington and Oregon is a GOOD 
thing ;)
Kevin.  KD5ONS

-Original Message-
>From: "Leigh L Klotz, Jr." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>Sent: May 23, 2006 2:26 PM
>To: Elecraft Reflector 
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] 80-m KX1 QSOs?
>
>3710 is also useful...I have talked to Glenn WB6W (our former ARRL 
>section leader who moved to Minden), Bill K6ACJ in Long Beach. On 35xx I 
>mostly get Oregon and Washington.
>73,
>Leigh/WA5ZNU
>On Tue, 23 May 2006 9:43 am, wayne burdick wrote:
>> What are the best segments within the 80-m CW band in your area? Seems 
>> like 3535-45 are pretty busy here some nights.
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Re: [Elecraft] QRO

[Eric Swartz - WA6HHQ, Elecraft]

Actually the APT ARF463 is a better device. It has been an excellent, 
and rugged, device for use in the KPA800 and KPA1500 amps. It has been 
very hard to kill in our destructive testing.  The only time I've blown 
one up was when I forgot to screw it down to the heat sink! (It made a 
great firecracker in that mode of operation.. :-)


These are 500V breakdown parts, which we run at 60V. Tons of headroom 
for short term high SWR events etc.


We use 16 of these transistors in the KPA1600 (four each in each of the 
four power module cards). This has the additional advantage that it 
spreads the heat dissipation over a much wider area than older designs 
that used two or four of the older Motorola devices. Lots of heat in a 
very small area equals short lifetimes for semiconductor devices. The 
Motorola parts are also much more prone to destruction in normal amateur 
abuse. These parts are also MUCH easier to replace in the field.


73, Eric   WA6HHQ


MKM wrote:
No, it should  be here & I know which one it is and I was hoping for a 
better device.

http://www.advancedpower.com/rfdisplay/default.aspx?marketid=13&appid=-1


On May 22, 2006, at 3:18 PM, Bill NY9H wrote:




it an APT device
http://www.advancedpower.com/rfdisplay/default.aspx?marketid=3:4:&appid=-1 



i'll bet it's on  this page

bill



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Re: [Elecraft] 80-m KX1 QSOs?

[Leigh L Klotz, Jr.]

3710 is also useful...I have talked to Glenn WB6W (our former ARRL 
section leader who moved to Minden), Bill K6ACJ in Long Beach. On 35xx I 
mostly get Oregon and Washington.

73,
Leigh/WA5ZNU
On Tue, 23 May 2006 9:43 am, wayne burdick wrote:
What are the best segments within the 80-m CW band in your area? Seems 
like 3535-45 are pretty busy here some nights.

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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe

[Darwin, Keith]

Bonjour Jean Louis et tout le monde,

I've read recently that it is better to remove the K2 probe and store it
out of the radio.  Leaving it in can cause some minor issues.

How is your WX.  Wait, don't tell me, I'll only be jealous!  I'm in
Vermont.  It is about 50f (10c?) and cloudy - again!

73

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of f5nhj
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 1:23 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire; 'Elecraft Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe

Hi...

some told that we can plug all the time the Elecraft K2 probe .. and
some no cause of harmonics !?..

what's about pse ?

Tks and 73 from french riviera

Jean louis
K2 #5371


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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe

[f5nhj]

Hi...

some told that we can plug all the time the Elecraft K2 probe .. and some no 
cause of harmonics !?..


what's about pse ?

Tks and 73 from french riviera

Jean louis
K2 #5371


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RE: [Elecraft] Re: KX1 noise blanker

[Darwin, Keith]

Wouldn't a K1 be a better choice for someone who wants a small CW only
rig as their main rig but needs NB?  Or maybe a K2?

Funny thing is, where I live I have no need for a noise blanker.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -

-Original Message-

There isn't much space for a serious noise blanker in the KX1 ...
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[Elecraft] Re: KX1 noise blanker

[wayne burdick]

Andrew,

There isn't much space for a serious noise blanker in the KX1. You 
might be able to make a module that fits in the same place as the KXB30 
or KXB3080, but blankers take a lot of parts, so it would have to be 
all SMT. There are very specific height constraints on any components 
used on a module in this area.


You might be able to use a simple diode limiter. It could be placed at 
the output of the receive mixer if the noise pulses are *really* 
strong; otherwise it would have to go at the output of the product 
detector or the AF amp. Unfortunately, the signals found at even these 
stages might still be too low to allow limiting diodes to conduct. The 
ARRL Handbook may show examples of pre-biasing the diodes so conduction 
happens with smaller signals.


If blanking and limiting don't work out, you'd be left with one further 
possibility: outboard, DSP-based noise reduction. This can be very 
effective, depending on the type of noise, although it'll be more 
expensive.


73,
Wayne
N6KR

---

http://www.elecraft.com

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[Elecraft] KX1 noise blanker

[Andrew Moore]

I'd love for the KX1 to be my only rig - but the lack of noise blanker makes
this difficult in my shack and mobile.  Has anyone tried to shoehorn a noise
blanker circuit into the KX1 with any success?



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[Elecraft] 80-m KX1 QSOs?

[wayne burdick]

Just wondering if those of you who have added the KXB3080 option have 
been making QSOs on 80 meters. What are the best segments within the 
80-m CW band in your area? Seems like 3535-45 are pretty busy here some 
nights.


I use the KX1's new scanning feature to monitor the entire CW segment 
while I'm doing other things around the lab.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


---

http://www.elecraft.com

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Re: [Elecraft] Who is P40A?

[AA5CK]

DXLab has the Pathfinder Software  included along with other DX programs at

http://www.dxlab.haybay.net/

If you are only interested in Pathfinder, the Web Client Server works great

http://www.dxlabsuite.com/pathfinder/WebClient/

Good LuckTed...aa5ck



Darwin, Keith wrote:




And more importantly where do you find info on stations like this - you
know, the ones with the odd calls that appear and disappear from time to
time.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

[Rick Dettinger]

One reason Elecraft (or any other manufactor of kits) would be unlikely to
offer tube amps is that they don't want builders putting "der fusin blowing
fingers" in a rig with a kilovolt B plus supply.  Or multi kv supply for
high power (QROo?) amps.  One big advantage of solid state rigs.  But I
still can and do blow the fuses.
73
Rick Dettinger
K7MW
- Original Message -
From: "Sandy W5TVW" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Bill Coleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 7:09 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas


> My answer would be:  Don't use 6146's!  two Raytheon 4D32's would do the
job much better.  They are
> as cheap as 6146's now.
>
> 73,
> Sandy W5TVW
> - Original Message -
> From: "Bill Coleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Cc: 
> Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 10:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas
>
>
> |
> | On May 22, 2006, at 8:35 AM, Fred (FL) wrote:
> |
> | > Anyone out there - think a 200Watt PEP tube
> | > 6146 amplifier - would cut it with a K2?
> | > Why?  Why not?
> |
> | You gonna run four tubes to get 200 watt PEP out?
> |
> | I've been through this, Fred. 6146's were great in their day, but
> | that day has passed. Get the KPA100 and mount it in an EC2 case.
> | There's your external amplifier.
> |
> | Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> | Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
> |  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
> |
> | ___
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> |
> |
> |
> | --
> | No virus found in this incoming message.
> | Checked by AVG Free Edition.
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> |
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas

[Sandy W5TVW]

My answer would be:  Don't use 6146's!  two Raytheon 4D32's would do the job 
much better.  They are
as cheap as 6146's now.

73,
Sandy W5TVW
- Original Message - 
From: "Bill Coleman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Fred (FL)" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Cc: 
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 10:04 PM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft Product Ideas


|
| On May 22, 2006, at 8:35 AM, Fred (FL) wrote:
|
| > Anyone out there - think a 200Watt PEP tube
| > 6146 amplifier - would cut it with a K2?
| > Why?  Why not?
|
| You gonna run four tubes to get 200 watt PEP out?
|
| I've been through this, Fred. 6146's were great in their day, but
| that day has passed. Get the KPA100 and mount it in an EC2 case.
| There's your external amplifier.
|
| Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
| Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
|  -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
|
| ___
| Elecraft mailing list
| Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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|
|
|
| -- 
| No virus found in this incoming message.
| Checked by AVG Free Edition.
| Version: 7.1.392 / Virus Database: 268.6.1/344 - Release Date: 5/19/2006
|
|

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[Elecraft] Re: Ideas - new Elecraft Products

[wayne burdick]

Fred (FL) wrote:

builders - continue to send in "product ideas" to Elecraft, via 
this email list


Much appreciated, Fred. We do read the list  :)   Ideas can be sent 
directly to me ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) as an alternative.


73,
Wayne
N6KR


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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

[Jim Brown]

On Tue, 23 May 2006 10:29:50 -0400, Don Wilhelm wrote:

>Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there 
is
>a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.

Yes. It is also important to remember that a SAFE installation (from a 
lightning and power safety point of view) requires that ALL grounds be 
bonded together, prefereably outside the building. In other words, while 
we must consider the behavior of our ground systems at radio frequencies, 
we must also take into account how they behave at power frequencies, and 
how they will respond to lightning (think radio frequencies). 

There is a discussion of safe grounding in the Power and Grounding 
tutorial that is on my website. All pdf files, no cookies required, free 
download. While it is specifically written for pro audio systems, the same 
laws of physics apply equally to our ham stations. :)

http://audiosystemsgroup.com/publish

BTW -- sorry to have missed seeing you at Dayton -- I just completed a 
cross country move from Chicago to Santa Cruz, and am totally burned out 
on traveling for at least a month or two. So I stayed home. The good news 
that I'm now about 20 miles from Elecraft world headquarters! 

73,

Jim Brown K9YC



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Re: [Elecraft] Portable nylon bag for K1?

[David F. Reed]

Petr,

I can make a few recommendations, but the final choice depends a lot on 
what you want the bag or case to do for you.


For example, if you primarily want to keep the K1 dry in a wet 
environment, a "dry bag" made for kayaking and canoing works well, and 
are available in a lot of sizes, and a lot of outdoor gear sales 
outlets.  If you want that plus some impact protection, a Pelican case 
can be found in almost any size you want, that could hold just the K1, 
or, the K1, battery, keyer, wire for antenna, and a lot of other gear, 
with foam and so on.


I think many members of the list have posted their personal solutions to 
this in the past, so no doubt others can chime in with more detailed 
recommendations.


73 de Dave, W5SV

Petr Ouředník wrote:


Dears,

as I am planning to bring my K1 to camp, backpacking nor quite often traveling 
I am looking for any heavy-duty nylon with all of the edges fully finished for 
strength and durability suitable for K1.

Does anybody know good tip for any portable bag or transport case like this 
please?

Regards,

Petr Ouředník
 


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RE: [Elecraft] QRZ.com (Who is P40A?)

[J. Edward (Ed) Muns]

Go to the Aruba Amateur Radio Club web site and on the P4 Callbook page you
will find a listing of all P4 call signs and owners.  However, somehow
recently the web site got reverted back to a 2004 version.  I spoke with the
web mistress, P40E, at Dayton about it and she will be getting it back to
the current version soon.  Still, it will show KK9A as the owner of P40A.
John is probably getting warmed up for CQWW WPX this weekend.

http://www.qsl.net/aarc/w_callbook.htm

73,
Ed - W0YK/P49X 

> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Darwin, Keith
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 7:16 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] QRZ.com (Who is P40A?)
> 
> Yea, I know about QRZ.com.  The last 2 or 3 "weird" calls I 
> ran through QRZ.com came up empty so I've gotten out of the 
> habit ... maybe a bit prematurely.
> 
> Thanks guys!
> 
> 73
> 
> - Keith KD1E -
> - K2 5411 - 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: JT Croteau [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 9:49 AM
> To: Darwin, Keith; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Who is P40A?
> 
> Keith, according to qrz.com, P40A is the Aruba QTH of KK9A John Bayne.
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Re: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

[Roland Whitsitt]

I've mentioned this before,
I'd like to see a kx2 that gets the other bands.  Like 17/15  12/10 
(24/6)?!  Boy, that would be something that no other kit does and only a 
couple of other qrp comercial rigs can do.
Roland n5vwn 


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RE: [Elecraft] Filters

[Don Wilhelm]

James,

If your CW filter shows multiple peaks with the bandwidth at 1000 Hz and
less, then yes, your crystals are 'funky' and should be replaced.  Also, the
SSB OP1 filter should have a smooth looking passband, but the wider widths
with the variable filter will normally look very 'ragged' - although hey are
usually useable for SSB reception if the passband is properly positioned.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

The filters in my K2 have always been a little weird. Tuning around,
the signal would always peak at the wrong point and then drop when it's
at the correct sidetone frequency. I lived with it for a while. I
finally took some initiative and tried it out with spectrogram and
using the Elecraft noise generator. My findings were a bit suprising.
The filter shape has multiple peaks and is not uniform at all..
compared to a few others I have seen. I compared it to another friends
K2 and it was confirmed - my filter shape is funky.

What should I do? Do I need to buy new crystals? Is something out of
whack?

Thanks,

James Kern KB2FCV

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Re: [Elecraft] QRZ.com (Who is P40A?)

[Stephen W. Kercel]

Keith:

A good source of information for obscure calls is:

http://www.ik3qar.it/manager/

Although this is primarily a list of QSL managers, it quite often 
includes direct addresses and other contact information. It is a 
fairly exhaustive list of rare DX stations and includes many calls 
not listed in QRZ.COM


73,

Steve
AA4AK



At 10:16 AM 5/23/2006, Darwin, Keith wrote:

Yea, I know about QRZ.com.  The last 2 or 3 "weird" calls I ran through
QRZ.com came up empty so I've gotten out of the habit ... maybe a bit
prematurely.

Thanks guys!

73

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -




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RE: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

[Craig Rairdin]

I just want to offer a reality check from a person who runs a consumer
software company and gets dozens of emails every week from enthusiastic
customers who have new product/feature ideas. This is not meant to throw a
wet blanket on new product ideas but rather to suggest some reasons why a
company might not be as enthusiastic about a particular idea as one of their
customers is. And of course I'm speaking from my own experience, not on
behalf of Elecraft.

First, we spend 24x7 thinking about our products and where the company
should go next. There are few things that customers mention that we haven't
already mentioned, discussed, drawn up designs for, done the market research
for, etc. This doesn't mean we don't want to hear new ideas, it just gives
you an idea of why a company like ours might not be as excited as its
customers over their new ideas.

Second, we have significantly more information upon which to base a
decision. We have our own financial history and also have insight into the
financial position of our competitors that aren't obvious to customers. We
see every piece of customer feedback so we can gauge whether a new product
is something that would be in demand or not. The thing that really turns on
one customer to the point where he all but demands that we do it could be
something that nobody else has ever mentioned and two other companies have
tried to sell but nobody bought.

Third, we have more experience in all areas of our business, including
marketing, manufacturing, R&D, sales, and support. While a customer idea
might sound easy from an R&D perspective, it might be impossible to
manufacture or support. It could be that the new feature would be expensive
to implement and not have any marketing (and therefore sales) impact.

By all means keep sending in new product ideas. I got a feature suggestion
from a customer yesterday that is going to be easy to implement and will
significantly improve one of our products. I'm embarrassed I didn't think of
it myself. But that's a pretty rare occurrence. If you keep suggesting a
particular thing and it doesn't make it into the product line for months and
years, keep in mind that they know more than you do about their products,
the future of their company, their customers, and their business.

BTW check out www.telepostinc.com -- N8LP's digital wattmeter & other
products. They match some of your requests.

Craig
NZ0R
K1 #1966
K2/100 #4941
KX1 #1499 still in the box



-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Fred (FL)
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 7:19 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products


K2/K1 Owner-builders

I posted a "Elecraft New Product Ideas" email last
week - which received mixed responses - "good",
"old stuff", "too difficult for Elecraft",
"done that ", "won't work", etc.

I think Elecraft is a great ham company.  And as
every builder knows - their support to us the ham
community - is superb!  And their quality of products
and kits is excellent and higher.

I'd suggest, we K1/K2 builders - continue to send in
"product ideas" to Elecraft, via this email list - 
and let Elecraft Management know, what product ideas
we'd like to see and what product ideas might help us
in our amateur endeavors.  We might be surprised, and
see some of them come to reality.  If they have to
hire another designer & tech or two, so be it.

If you like the product(s) which Elecraft now markets
and sells - I myself, would like to continue to buy my
next products from them too.  Frankly I've never been
fully satisfied with MFJ items - for some reason many
of them look aluminish and of poorer quality.

BUY ELECRAFT, TELL ELECRAFT WHAT YOU'D LIKE and WHAT
YOU THINK WOULD BE HELPFUL, FOR OUR HOBBY!

My Kits - short list 5/23/2006:
- outboard RF OUTPUT METER Indicator (in-line)
- inboard RF OUTPUT INDICATOR (panel, neon/eye)
- outboard POWER METER (ala Birdy), w/SWR option
- poor man's 6146 200w PEP outboard TUBE AMPLIFIER
(relive your youth) (FCC ham-project form)
- matching Elecraft 6146 AMP POWER SUPPLY
- 200w match-anything TUNER (coils, meters, R/L/C's)
- a HF K3 TRANSCEIVER, with general coverage, 2  
meter, 440, and bigger footprint & displays
- an Elecraft K2/K3 MOBILE MIKE, w/up-down, functions
- an Elecraft quality, HEADPHONE set, K1/K2/K3
- a couple HF porta-ANTENNAs, back pack carryable
- a "hide-able" HF ANTENNA (gutter?, bush?)
- Elecraft Mobile VERTICAL ANTENNA (hf, tuneable)
- Elecraft SCOPE for alignment jobs
- Elecraft SIGNAL GENERATOR, for alignment jobs

Thanks, 73's
Fred N3CSY
FL/upstate NY
5/23/2006

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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

[Don Wilhelm]

Jim,

Well said - for years now I have been trying to convince folks that there is
a strong need for considering 2 'grounds' at a station.
The first is the Safety Ground which should be a low impedance path to
earth - large conductors, lots of heavy guage wire buried in the earth and
ground rods, and this must also be connected to the utility ground.
Properly implemented it should serve a a lightning protection ground.

The second is the RF Ground - and the Safety Ground may or may not suffice.
Consider a good Safety Ground with an 8 foot connection from the antenna
connection at the tuner - that combintion will likely produce a high
impedance for RF at 10 meters, thus there will be no RF Ground at that
frequency.  In such conditions, the use of quarterwave counterpoises for
each troublesome band is in order.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

So what?  The significance of an RF ground is highly
overemphasized. Park next the to end of the runway of your local
airport and watch the 747's take off. Call me collect when you see
one trailing a ground wire. Last I heard, the onboard electronics
and radios work just fine without one.

The earth is NOT a sump into which noise is dumped, nor will a
connection to earth make a radio more stable. An earth connection
has no beneficial effect on the operation of a radio transmitter,
nor on the elimination of RF interference. In fact, a connection
made to earth by a noise source or receiver will act as an
antenna, radiating or receiving interference.

A "ground system" for a long wire or vertical antenna is really a
COUNTERPOISE for the antenna -- it provides the other half of the
circuit for the transmitter (or receiver) as a load. This is why
it is VERY important to bond the shield of the coax in a mobile
antenna system to the body of the car at the base of the antenna.
It isn't noise (although it might reduce noise), it's the other
half of the antenna!

The surface of the earth also serves as a reflector for the radio
waves radiated by the antenna. That ground system will work better
(be more efficient, have less IR loss) if it is has low impedance
at the frequency where it is used. High moisture content results
in very low resitivity and better reflectivity in the soil. It is
the combination of the reflection(s) with the direct wave from the
antenna that determine the vertical directivity of the antenna
system. These two mechanisms are the significance of RF ground.

Jim Brown K9YC
http://audiosystemsgroup.com


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[Elecraft] QRZ.com (Who is P40A?)

[Darwin, Keith]

Yea, I know about QRZ.com.  The last 2 or 3 "weird" calls I ran through
QRZ.com came up empty so I've gotten out of the habit ... maybe a bit
prematurely.

Thanks guys!

73

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 - 

-Original Message-
From: JT Croteau [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 9:49 AM
To: Darwin, Keith; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Who is P40A?

Keith, according to qrz.com, P40A is the Aruba QTH of KK9A John Bayne.
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RE: [Elecraft] Filters

[Darwin, Keith]

Multiple peaks?  At what bandwidths?

My K2 give nice flat filter shapes at bandwidths 1000 Hz and narrower.
At SSB bandwidths, the filter passband has several or more very large
peaks and has a gentle roll off in either lows (USB) or highs (LSB).
Even at widths of 1.6 KHz the passband shows a couple of big peaks.

In contrast my IC-735 shows a nice flat passband with no slope to it
(thus proving the issue is not my PC sound card or the way I ran
spectrogram).

I did some screen shots and sent them to Elecraft support to see if it
was a problem.  No it's not.  The Xtal filter was optimized for variable
bandwidth over CW bandwidths and doesn't work as well at SSB widths.

Apparently the fixed-width filter in the SSB adapter does not have this
issue.

Your post sounds like your rig is not "right".  My rig has the new
generation matched Xtal filters and I put in the 2nd set of grounding
straps (per the instructions in the KSB2 documentation IIRC).

Oh, and with spectrogram, I got much better results if I let it filter /
average over 3 seconds or so.  That really suppressed the noise and
showed the filter shape more accurately.

- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Tuesday, May 23, 2006 9:38 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] Filters

The filters in my K2 have always been a little weird. Tuning around, the
signal would always peak at the wrong point and then drop when it's at
the correct sidetone frequency. I lived with it for a while. I finally
took some initiative and tried it out with spectrogram and using the
Elecraft noise generator. My findings were a bit suprising. 
The filter shape has multiple peaks and is not uniform at all.. 
compared to a few others I have seen. I compared it to another friends
K2 and it was confirmed - my filter shape is funky.

What should I do? Do I need to buy new crystals? Is something out of
whack?

Thanks,

James Kern KB2FCV
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RE: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Jim K9YC wrote:

So what?  The significance of an RF ground is highly 
overemphasized. Park next the to end of the runway of your local 
airport and watch the 747's take off. Call me collect when you see 
one trailing a ground wire. Last I heard, the onboard electronics 
and radios work just fine without one. 

--

Of course an RF ground or a connection to the earth is not essential.
Indeed, my point was that a connection to the earth was NOT required. 

In the question I was responding to, the writer was trying to reduce the RF
voltage on the case of his equipment because everything was not floating
above ground, like in an airplane. I was suggesting ways he could reduce the
RF voltages on the gear without a connection to an earth ground.

Ron AC7AC

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RE: [Elecraft] (no subject)

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

Check the RF Voltages as Gary has indicated - you can reach the collector of
Q5 easily, the case is also connected to the collector.

Once you have discovered the stage where the RF voltage is significantly
lower than the values Gary has indicated, you can identify the failing stage
and look in detail at the associated components or the failure.  Once you
can tell us the failing stage, we can help further from there.

73,
Don W3FPR

-Original Message-

A am forwarding this to the group in the hopes of getting some
additional help and to perhaps decrease Gary's load a bit.
I am not getting any significant output from my K2 in Alignment III.
I've replaced Q7 and Q8 (broke the leads), rechecked T1-T4 and
resoldered.  Found some missing parts and corrected.

I'm hoping there's something OBVIOUS I'm missing.

John
AB8WH

=

Gary

Here are the (partial) results.  I'm afraid I really don't have the
BIG PICTURE

When using the RF probe, my DVM is set to VDC
On May 22, 2006, at 8:19 PM, Gary Surrency wrote:
The PA transistors should be OK as long as you did not transmit with
the PA heat sink removed, and none of the leads are broken off.
Always replace both PA transistors at the same time if one of them
fails, overheats, or stays cold during transmit, or fails the base
bias test of 0VDC in receive, not more than 0.62 to 0.65VDC in transmit.
0 VDC in Receive...3 mV in Tx
Both PA transistors should get warm around their mounting hardware on
the heat sink after a few seconds in transmit, and both need to be
healthy in order operate properly in the push-pull PA stage.
  They feel a little warm after about 10sec
Q22 is supposed to be warm after the rig has been on for a while. It
is NOT associated with transmitting - only with receiving.

Lack of RF output on all bands usually means the PAs are damaged, or
there is a problem with some of the parts around Q5-Q8, T1-T4. Doing
RF voltage tests is the best way to narrow down where  the problem is:

Here are useful measurements to take when the rig is in transmit.

All measurements taken at 7100kHz with a 100MHz oscilloscope, at
maximum TX output unless otherwise specified.


anode side of D7220mVpp  In TX, D7 has 8.11 VDC on its anode

about 220 mv on RF  7.88 VDC
cathode side of D7  200mVpp  In TX, D7 has 7.49 VDC on its
cathode

about 200 mv on RF  7.25 VDC
jumper W6   250mVpp  Note: L1 and L2 *must be peaked,
or you will not get this.

.360  V on RF
collector of Q5 500-600mVpp  Q6 has 12.58 VDC at minimum
output, 11.9 VDC at full drive

How can I measure Leads of Q5 when I need to remove sink to access?

base of Q6  200mVppNear sine wave. 800mVDC to 1.1VDC

160 mV

collector of Q6 6-10VppNice sine wave. 13.6-12.5VDC, 0.1
to 15W out.

3.3 V

base of Q7/Q8   2Vpp   some distortion is normal here.
0.620 to 0.650 VDC


Q7 .62   Q8 .65  VDCRF  probe: .03 V and dropping over time
collector of Q7/Q8  21-25Vpp   also distorted here at full power.
13.6 VDC

8 to 8.5 VDC
jumper W1   70-80Vpp   clean sine wave

40V
antenna jack70-80Vpp   clean sine wave

mVpp = RF millivolts peak to peak

Vpp = RF volts peak to peak

NOTE:  The RF probe in the kit will show only about 35% of these pk-
pk voltages as it reads rms voltage, not peak to peak.

Do not use the probe on the antenna RF output or the diode detector
in it may be damaged.

I hope this info helps you to track down where the problem is.

--
73, Gary AB7MY
=
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[Elecraft] KXB30 free to good home

[Eric Ward]

Assembled surplus KXB30 for the cost of postage.  Email me off list.
73
Eric N0HHS
KX1 #670

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RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Geoff, GM4ESD, wrote:

Quite right, but there is a way to overcome this problem which is to apply 
an offset DC bias to the diode(s) which cancels the diode's natural 'bias'. 
The diode(s) will then conduct with low applied 'signal' voltage. Requires a

stable and 'quiet'  DC source e.g. a battery, and stable resistors in the DC

'level adjust' circuit, plus care when setting up. Perhaps it is not worth 
doing this unless there is a REAL need for a probe that can measure low RF 
levels.

---

Some years ago Wes Hayward, W7ZOI, published a nice design for such a
low-level detector in "Solid State Design for the Radio Amateur". It uses a
simple op-amp and a second diode to set up the proper bias for the detector
diode so that ordinary small-signal silicon diodes (e.g. 1N914) could be
used to measure very small RF voltages. I used the circuit myself for a
number of years. 

Ron AC7AC

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Re: [Elecraft] Who is P40A?

[JT Croteau]

Keith, according to qrz.com, P40A is the Aruba QTH of KK9A John Bayne.
P40N is a Dutchman by the name of Michale Noertemann.  Both have
email addresses, try emailing them and see if you are in their logs.

- JT

On 5/23/06, Darwin, Keith <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Last night on 40 meters, there was a pile up on this S9+20dB signal.  He
was sending pretty fast - P40A (or was it P40N?).  I gave him a call.
He came back to another station.  After the next QRZ, I called, paused
then called twice.  He came back to me ...

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Re: [Elecraft] RF Ground (WAS: KAT100 on 30 Meters)

[Jim Brown]

On Thu, 18 May 2006 16:40:39 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

>you'll have no RF ground at all at the rig

So what?  The significance of an RF ground is highly 
overemphasized. Park next the to end of the runway of your local 
airport and watch the 747's take off. Call me collect when you see 
one trailing a ground wire. Last I heard, the onboard electronics 
and radios work just fine without one. 

The earth is NOT a sump into which noise is dumped, nor will a 
connection to earth make a radio more stable. An earth connection 
has no beneficial effect on the operation of a radio transmitter, 
nor on the elimination of RF interference. In fact, a connection 
made to earth by a noise source or receiver will act as an 
antenna, radiating or receiving interference. 

A "ground system" for a long wire or vertical antenna is really a 
COUNTERPOISE for the antenna -- it provides the other half of the 
circuit for the transmitter (or receiver) as a load. This is why 
it is VERY important to bond the shield of the coax in a mobile 
antenna system to the body of the car at the base of the antenna. 
It isn't noise (although it might reduce noise), it's the other 
half of the antenna! 

The surface of the earth also serves as a reflector for the radio 
waves radiated by the antenna. That ground system will work better 
(be more efficient, have less IR loss) if it is has low impedance 
at the frequency where it is used. High moisture content results 
in very low resitivity and better reflectivity in the soil. It is 
the combination of the reflection(s) with the direct wave from the 
antenna that determine the vertical directivity of the antenna 
system. These two mechanisms are the significance of RF ground. 

Jim Brown K9YC
http://audiosystemsgroup.com


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[Elecraft] Who is P40A?

[Darwin, Keith]

Last night on 40 meters, there was a pile up on this S9+20dB signal.  He
was sending pretty fast - P40A (or was it P40N?).  I gave him a call.
He came back to another station.  After the next QRZ, I called, paused
then called twice.  He came back to me ...
 
KD1E?
 
I answered KD1E KD1E 5nn 5nn BK
 
He answered KD1E?
 
I slowed just a bit and repeated KD1E KD1E KD1E  5nn 5nn 5nn BK
 
KD1E QSL 5nn TU.
 
So who is this?  A DXpedition?
 
And more importantly where do you find info on stations like this - you
know, the ones with the odd calls that appear and disappear from time to
time.
 
- Keith KD1E -
- K2 5411 -
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[Elecraft] Filters

[james1787]

The filters in my K2 have always been a little weird. Tuning around, 
the signal would always peak at the wrong point and then drop when it's 
at the correct sidetone frequency. I lived with it for a while. I 
finally took some initiative and tried it out with spectrogram and 
using the Elecraft noise generator. My findings were a bit suprising. 
The filter shape has multiple peaks and is not uniform at all.. 
compared to a few others I have seen. I compared it to another friends 
K2 and it was confirmed - my filter shape is funky.


What should I do? Do I need to buy new crystals? Is something out of 
whack?


Thanks,

James Kern KB2FCV
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[Elecraft] K1 on 10 meters

[Bill Cunningham K4KSR]

I guess I can declare K1 #1649 QRV on 10 meters, having worked HK3CQ and
VE3KZ Sunday with about 1.5 watts into a 40 meter Windom.  This mod,
however, remains a work in progress (with occasional regress).

This has been an interesting and frequently frustrating project that seems
never to end as new discoveries keep popping up.  Wayne suggested and
graciously supplied 26.170 MHz xtal to try low-side injection with
potentially lower cost and greater output from the premixer.  This also has
the advantage of making the 10 meter and 17 meter premix filters identical.
The fun begins, however, in getting enough drive out of the bandpass filter
to achieve a useful output.  I've followed the leads from Bob Larkin and
Stephanie Maks, both of whom reported achieving outputs over 4 watts;
however I'm unable to duplicate their results.  Achieving 1 watt is fairly
straightforward, but 4 watts is not.  The devil is in the details,
somewhere.

The 10 meter filter components are installed as Band 1 on a 2-band board
shared with 17 meters.  The latter provides an excellent point-by-point
comparison and sanity check because some tweaks that enhance 10 meter output
destroy 17 meters entirely.  At this point, I'm not sure the path through
the BPF output relay K2B behaves identically for both bands.  The Band 1
path is clearly inductive and causes a significant voltage drop between the
junction of C14 & C15 and P2-pin 8.   Capacitor leads display enough
inductance to make a difference at 28 MHz so that you get a false result
when you tack in a cap with long leads to try a change.

Would appreciate hearing from others wandering down this path.

Bill Cunningham, K4KSR

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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Ron, AC7AC, wrote:


As you make the RF probe better able to handle high RF voltages you will
also cause it to be less accurate at lower RF voltages.

The common RF probe diodes have a turn-on voltage of about 0.2 volts. Below
that, they are almost open circuits and have no output. Higher PRV diodes
have turn-on voltages of closer  to 0.6 volts - three times that of the more
sensitive diodes. So it takes three times the RF voltage to even begin to
show a DC output and you'll need to be well above the turn on voltage to
show an output that accurately indicates the RF applied. Put two or three
diodes in series and you'll need 1.2 to nearly 2 volts  to just start
showing some indication of an output.

Bottom line, don't try to use such a probe for low RF levels.

-

Quite right, but there is a way to overcome this problem which is to apply 
an offset DC bias to the diode(s) which cancels the diode's natural 'bias'. 
The diode(s) will then conduct with low applied 'signal' voltage. Requires a 
stable and 'quiet'  DC source e.g. a battery, and stable resistors in the DC 
'level adjust' circuit, plus care when setting up. Perhaps it is not worth 
doing this unless there is a REAL need for a probe that can measure low RF 
levels.


73,
Geoff
GM4ESD




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[Elecraft] Portable nylon bag for K1?

[Petr Ouředník]

Dears,

as I am planning to bring my K1 to camp, backpacking nor quite often traveling 
I am looking for any heavy-duty nylon with all of the edges fully finished for 
strength and durability suitable for K1.

Does anybody know good tip for any portable bag or transport case like this 
please?

Regards,

Petr Ouředník
00420608230010 (private)
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
www.qsl.net/ok1rp
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[Elecraft] Ideas - new Elecraft Products

[Fred (FL)]

K2/K1 Owner-builders

I posted a "Elecraft New Product Ideas" email last
week - which received mixed responses - "good",
"old stuff", "too difficult for Elecraft",
"done that ", "won't work", etc.

I think Elecraft is a great ham company.  And as
every builder knows - their support to us the ham
community - is superb!  And their quality of products
and kits is excellent and higher.

I'd suggest, we K1/K2 builders - continue to send in
"product ideas" to Elecraft, via this email list - 
and let Elecraft Management know, what product ideas
we'd like to see and what product ideas might help us
in our amateur endeavors.  We might be surprised, and
see some of them come to reality.  If they have to
hire another designer & tech or two, so be it.

If you like the product(s) which Elecraft now markets
and sells - I myself, would like to continue to buy my
next products from them too.  Frankly I've never been
fully satisfied with MFJ items - for some reason many
of them look aluminish and of poorer quality.

BUY ELECRAFT, TELL ELECRAFT WHAT YOU'D LIKE and WHAT
YOU THINK WOULD BE HELPFUL, FOR OUR HOBBY!

My Kits - short list 5/23/2006:
- outboard RF OUTPUT METER Indicator (in-line)
- inboard RF OUTPUT INDICATOR (panel, neon/eye)
- outboard POWER METER (ala Birdy), w/SWR option
- poor man's 6146 200w PEP outboard TUBE AMPLIFIER
(relive your youth) (FCC ham-project form)
- matching Elecraft 6146 AMP POWER SUPPLY
- 200w match-anything TUNER (coils, meters, R/L/C's)
- a HF K3 TRANSCEIVER, with general coverage, 2  
meter, 440, and bigger footprint & displays
- an Elecraft K2/K3 MOBILE MIKE, w/up-down, functions
- an Elecraft quality, HEADPHONE set, K1/K2/K3
- a couple HF porta-ANTENNAs, back pack carryable
- a "hide-able" HF ANTENNA (gutter?, bush?)
- Elecraft Mobile VERTICAL ANTENNA (hf, tuneable)
- Elecraft SCOPE for alignment jobs
- Elecraft SIGNAL GENERATOR, for alignment jobs

Thanks, 73's
Fred N3CSY
FL/upstate NY
5/23/2006

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[Elecraft] (no subject)

[John Wiener]

If this is not appropriate, please let me know.

A am forwarding this to the group in the hopes of getting some  
additional help and to perhaps decrease Gary's load a bit.
I am not getting any significant output from my K2 in Alignment III.   
I've replaced Q7 and Q8 (broke the leads), rechecked T1-T4 and  
resoldered.  Found some missing parts and corrected.


I'm hoping there's something OBVIOUS I'm missing.

John
AB8WH

=

Gary

Here are the (partial) results.  I'm afraid I really don't have the  
BIG PICTURE


When using the RF probe, my DVM is set to VDC
On May 22, 2006, at 8:19 PM, Gary Surrency wrote:
The PA transistors should be OK as long as you did not transmit with  
the PA heat sink removed, and none of the leads are broken off.  
Always replace both PA transistors at the same time if one of them  
fails, overheats, or stays cold during transmit, or fails the base  
bias test of 0VDC in receive, not more than 0.62 to 0.65VDC in transmit.

0 VDC in Receive...3 mV in Tx
Both PA transistors should get warm around their mounting hardware on  
the heat sink after a few seconds in transmit, and both need to be  
healthy in order operate properly in the push-pull PA stage.

 They feel a little warm after about 10sec
Q22 is supposed to be warm after the rig has been on for a while. It  
is NOT associated with transmitting - only with receiving.


Lack of RF output on all bands usually means the PAs are damaged, or  
there is a problem with some of the parts around Q5-Q8, T1-T4. Doing  
RF voltage tests is the best way to narrow down where  the problem is:


Here are useful measurements to take when the rig is in transmit.

All measurements taken at 7100kHz with a 100MHz oscilloscope, at  
maximum TX output unless otherwise specified.



anode side of D7220mVpp  In TX, D7 has 8.11 VDC on its anode

about 220 mv on RF  7.88 VDC
cathode side of D7  200mVpp  In TX, D7 has 7.49 VDC on its  
cathode


about 200 mv on RF  7.25 VDC
jumper W6   250mVpp  Note: L1 and L2 *must be peaked,  
or you will not get this.


.360  V on RF
collector of Q5 500-600mVpp  Q6 has 12.58 VDC at minimum  
output, 11.9 VDC at full drive


How can I measure Leads of Q5 when I need to remove sink to access?

base of Q6  200mVppNear sine wave. 800mVDC to 1.1VDC

160 mV

collector of Q6 6-10VppNice sine wave. 13.6-12.5VDC, 0.1  
to 15W out.


3.3 V

base of Q7/Q8   2Vpp   some distortion is normal here.  
0.620 to 0.650 VDC



Q7 .62   Q8 .65  VDCRF  probe: .03 V and dropping over time
collector of Q7/Q8  21-25Vpp   also distorted here at full power.  
13.6 VDC


8 to 8.5 VDC
jumper W1   70-80Vpp   clean sine wave

40V
antenna jack70-80Vpp   clean sine wave

mVpp = RF millivolts peak to peak

Vpp = RF volts peak to peak

NOTE:  The RF probe in the kit will show only about 35% of these pk- 
pk voltages as it reads rms voltage, not peak to peak.


Do not use the probe on the antenna RF output or the diode detector  
in it may be damaged.


I hope this info helps you to track down where the problem is.

--
73, Gary AB7MY
=
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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe

[Larry Phipps]

The diode probe measures peak voltage if it's a standard diode/cap 
detector... and it needs to handle the peak inverse voltage, which would 
be 100V ( 70.7v RMS) across a 50 ohm load at 100W. A series pair of 
1N5711 Schottky diodes should give you 140V PIV, which should be safe. 
The drop will still be quite low... lower than a single silicon diode, 
but obviously twice as high as a single Schottky.


If you go that route, you should put a 1 meg resistor across each diode 
to balance the voltage across them.


Larry N8LP



Stan Rife wrote:

Thanks, Ron, and everyone. I am trying to measure the RF voltage at
the dummyload, and calibrate the K2 RF meter. The probe is fine at 20watts,
what everyone has recommended I check it at. I was just trying to read it at
100watts to verify that the K2 meter tracked with the output. That's when I
took out the diode. 


Tom and Don both warned me about this, but I just had to push the
envelope. I'll just set it at 20watts and let it go at that. I'll see if I
can find some 1N34A diodes locally.

The voltages range from 25v to 70v. 71 volts equals 100.8 watts, if
I remember my calculations. 




Stan Rife
W5EWA
Houston, TX
K2 S/N 4216
 


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Monday, May 22, 2006 9:20 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] Elecraft RF Probe


As you make the RF probe better able to handle high RF voltages you will
also cause it to be less accurate at lower RF voltages.

The common RF probe diodes have a turn-on voltage of about 0.2 volts. Below
that, they are almost open circuits and have no output. Higher PRV diodes
have turn-on voltages of closer  to 0.6 volts - three times that of the more
sensitive diodes. So it takes three times the RF voltage to even begin to
show a DC output and you'll need to be well above the turn on voltage to
show an output that accurately indicates the RF applied. Put two or three
diodes in series and you'll need 1.2 to nearly 2 volts  to just start
showing some indication of an output.

Bottom line, don't try to use such a probe for low RF levels.  


Ron AC7AC

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