Re: [Elecraft] P3 for Windows anyone?

[Adrian]

Thanks Tom,  I'm Impressed !!!. Looking forward to the final product.

 

Adrian .v k4tux

 

From: tom...@videotron.ca [mailto:tom...@videotron.ca] 
Sent: Friday, 20 April 2012 12:22 PM
To: Adrian
Subject: Re: RE: [Elecraft] P3 for Windows anyone? [END of Thread]

 


Heres a teaser...recorded with camtasia which slows it down by a factor of
10.  It actually runs as fast as the p3 natively.
 
http://va2fsq.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/p3.mp4 
And it works remotely!




 
http://va2fsq.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/p3.mp4 
- Original Message -
From: Adrian 
Date: Sunday, April 15, 2012 4:02 am
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] P3 for Windows anyone? [END of Thread]
To: 'tomb18' 

> Tom , Ok and well done on an alternative windows controller. 32 
> bit would
> run fine in either 64bit Win 7 or native 32 bit yes?
> Should also run on XP, so I hope you will set top priority to 
> the 32 bit
> ver. Hopefully you can do a Linux version too later.
> Please put me on your tester list and feel free to email 
> whatever you
> develop. 
> If you could set a settings macro per band/mode, that would be 
> great, such
> that a click of that macro would setup what you need.
> 
> Thankyou
> 
> vk4tux at bigpond.com
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
> [mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of tomb18
> Sent: Sunday, 15 April 2012 4:32 PM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] P3 for Windows anyone? [END of Thread]
> 
> Ok, I have run into a few logistics issues that I hope someone 
> can assist
> with.
> In order for the P3 to control the K3 it must maintain 
> communications via a
> serial link.  Thus one needs to use a com port sharing 
> program such as
> LP-Bridge or LP-Bridge 2.  This works fine within the 
> design parameters of
> the program.  As I have not used these programs before, are 
> there any issues
> with them that I should be aware of?  Everything is working 
> fine and far
> better than I thought.
> 
> I have found a bug in the P3 firmware: Issuing the #REF command 
> only allows
> setting over -140 to -90 not to +10 as stated in the 
> manual.  This is not
> big issue since if you need your reference level at -90 you have other
> problems!
> 
> These will be the features in the first version:  Please 
> let me know if I
> have missed anything:
> Setting of reference level
> Setting of Span
> Setting of scale
> Setting of center frequency
> Turning on and off of waterfall
> Turning Peak Hold on and off
> Turning and setting averaging (waterfall also) Using Markers A 
> and B by
> mouse
> 10 customizable function keys: Can set span, or almost anything 
> that the P3
> can do. Each key can contain many commands at the same time.
> Screen capture
> Spectrum recording (there may or may not be compression in the first
> release..)
> Fully scalable spectrum display from 640x400 to 1920x1080
> 
> I will also have a "remote" mode.  Now I would appreciate 
> peoples feedback
> on this.  You will need to do a remote login such as using 
> mstsc or Logmein
> etc.  Of course, if you did this at full resolution you 
> will need huge
> bandwidth.  Most upload speeds for the Internet are around 
> 1mb/s.  Therefore
> I will offer a reduced resolution and video update mode.  
> Perhaps something
> like 640x400 and 10 fps.Can anyone suggest another way to do this?
> 
> Well that's it for now.  I expect I will have something for 
> release in a
> couple of weeks.  The first release will be for Windows 7 
> x64.  I will try
> for the x32 as well.
> 
> I would appreciate any feedback.
> Thanks, Tom VA2FSQ
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/P3-for-Windows-anyone-
> tp7447888p7467230.html
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[Elecraft] A lot of messages…48,300 and counting

[Phil Hystad]

I started on the Elecraft e-mail reflector on 12/23/09, or at least that is the 
date of the oldest message in my archive.  I just checked, wondering how big 
this was getting.  Well, it is about 48,300 messages.  Now, I know that is not 
all of them because I have another folder of Keepers, that is, important little 
factoids that are useful to keep around and that has about two dozen or so 
messages in it.  And, then there are those trash messages that I just deleted 
rather then keep in my archive.  But, I have to admit, this is the most active 
news group or e-mail reflector I have ever been apart of that includes all of 
the old comp.lang days and other computer programming newsgroups.

Keep it up, I have lots of unused storage, several TB worth.

73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Matt Murphy]

Jim wrote: *as long as you take reasonable care to get levels right*

How does one determine the ideal balance of line out volume, line in
sensitivity, sound card output volume, and sound card mic sensitivity?

73,
Matt NQ6N

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 7:02 PM, erehm  wrote:

> Rich - Thanks.  The was really helpful.
>
> Wayne - Could FSK control be added to ACC2 GPIO (like K3 ACC DIG0) and PTT
> toggled via the microphone connector, thus both available simultaneously to
> external RTTY software?
>
> I'm new at this, so apologies if I've proposed something stupid...
>
> /eric, kj7ae
>
> --
> View this message in context:
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

I can highly recommend Chipquik - for multilegged devices.  For devices 
with only 2 leads, I believe it is overkill (but it will work).  My 
objections with Quickchip is that one *must* clean up the site before 
applying new solder - or the new solder will not stick..  The cleanup 
task is not to be minimized, but is necessary,

Chipquik is not inexpensive, but samples are available.  Give it a try 
for devices having more than 2 solder connections - but for 2 legged 
devices, I stand by my conclusion that the cleanup is more work than the 
effort required using other means.  YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/19/2012 10:29 PM, Dave Lankshear wrote:
> I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Chipquik to ease the pain of SMT removal.
> It is a low temperature alloy (something like Wood's metal - the melting
> teaspoon in a hot drink prank etc.), supplied in small diameter "wires"
> together with a special flux.  Melt a little Chipquik onto an existing
> soldered joint and then melt the other end with the iron.  The Chipquik-ed
> end stays molten, so removal is a breeze, as is cleanup.  I've removed and
> replaced a 64-pin chip quite easily with it.  I won't say more, but visit
> the website, www.chipquik.com   and take up their
> free sample offer; it's enough to help remove several components.
>
>
>
> As for crunching up SMT's, that doesn't sit easy with me, but the quality of
> Elecraft's boards means they will take some hammer before foil separates
> from the substrate. I sure have hammered, but to date, I've never lifted a
> trace or pad on an Elecraft PCB, although I know a few folks who have.  Just
> tonight, I removed a diode on a small, made in China PCB.  Simply heating
> both ends of the component's solder caused the pads to separate from the
> board; such was its dire quality.  I used a wire ended diode to replace the
> dud and had to be a bit crafty as to where the ends were tacked, but it's
> working again.
>
>
>
> For a quick hold-down of a component, I often use a cocktail stick, taking
> care to keep it absolutely vertical above the component.  Use tweezers with
> care because they make fine component launchers and tracking down the
> launched component is like looking for a needle in a haystack.  Little
> vacuum pencils are sold on Ebay for a couple of bucks and are handy for
> lifting or keeping hold of stuff like SMT ICs - the big stuff Hi!
>
>
>
> While I'm on a roll, here are more tips, qualified by the usual disclaimer -
> YMMV.
>
>
>
> Small wattage soldering irons have so much thermal lag that components can
> be barbecued before the solder melts.  I use and recommend a temperature
> controlled iron of around 50 watts.  Go for something that has a fine tip,
> but not a needle tip, as there's not much metal to conduct heat to the tip,
> so thermal lag again.  Look for a short taper.
>
>
>
> Get a GOOD solder sucker.  I have a small stock of Soldapullts from Edsyn.
> Take a look at www.edsyn.com   and check out the last
> few pages of their clearance items.  You should find some very inexpensive,
> end of line, high quality solder suckers listed.  Get a spare tip or two
> with the order.
>
>
>
> Invest in a liquid flux pen.  It makes such a difference to have wiped a
> spot on pads before soldering and wiping along the next bit of solder braid
> you're using makes the braid much more effective.
>
>
>
> 73 Dave G3TJP
>
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Only because we were talking about simple two-terminal SMDs, Dave. 

I use Chipquik for SMDs with more than two terminals. It's great! 

I agree, follow the instructions on their website and you can remove/replace
huge MCUs and other chips easily. 

This whole discussion reminds me of something my favorite author,
aeronautical British engineer Nevil Schute Norway, wrote in the introduction
to one of his books: 

"An engineer is a man who can do for five bob (25 cents) what anyone can do
for a quid ($1)" 

>From personal experience I can say that the difference between simple and
complex tools to do a job is more often in the time it takes rather than the
quality of the end product. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Chipquik to ease the pain of SMT removal.
It is a low temperature alloy (something like Wood's metal - the melting
teaspoon in a hot drink prank etc.), supplied in small diameter "wires"
together with a special flux.  Melt a little Chipquik onto an existing
soldered joint and then melt the other end with the iron.  The Chipquik-ed
end stays molten, so removal is a breeze, as is cleanup.  I've removed and
replaced a 64-pin chip quite easily with it.  I won't say more, but visit
the website, www.chipquik.com   and take up their
free sample offer; it's enough to help remove several components.


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[Elecraft] Elecraft PDFs vs Mac OS

[wb6rse1]

If you are using Mac OS 10.7.3 (Lion) and the Safari browser  v5.1.5 and cannot 
see/print PDFs, you likely have a conflict with an installed Adobe PDF Reader.

Do this:

Delete/trash all copies of Adobe Reader from your Applications folder.

>From HD>Library>Internet Plug-Ins delete/trash these files:

AdobePDFViewerNPAPI.plugin
AdobePDFViewer.plugin

Restart Safari. This also fixes the same problem with Firefox. Google Chrome 
works without these deletions.

You can use the Adobe Reader installer to reverse the above if you wish.

73 - Steve WB6RSE
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Dave Lankshear]

I'm surprised no-one has mentioned Chipquik to ease the pain of SMT removal.
It is a low temperature alloy (something like Wood's metal - the melting
teaspoon in a hot drink prank etc.), supplied in small diameter "wires"
together with a special flux.  Melt a little Chipquik onto an existing
soldered joint and then melt the other end with the iron.  The Chipquik-ed
end stays molten, so removal is a breeze, as is cleanup.  I've removed and
replaced a 64-pin chip quite easily with it.  I won't say more, but visit
the website, www.chipquik.com   and take up their
free sample offer; it's enough to help remove several components.

 

As for crunching up SMT's, that doesn't sit easy with me, but the quality of
Elecraft's boards means they will take some hammer before foil separates
from the substrate. I sure have hammered, but to date, I've never lifted a
trace or pad on an Elecraft PCB, although I know a few folks who have.  Just
tonight, I removed a diode on a small, made in China PCB.  Simply heating
both ends of the component's solder caused the pads to separate from the
board; such was its dire quality.  I used a wire ended diode to replace the
dud and had to be a bit crafty as to where the ends were tacked, but it's
working again. 

 

For a quick hold-down of a component, I often use a cocktail stick, taking
care to keep it absolutely vertical above the component.  Use tweezers with
care because they make fine component launchers and tracking down the
launched component is like looking for a needle in a haystack.  Little
vacuum pencils are sold on Ebay for a couple of bucks and are handy for
lifting or keeping hold of stuff like SMT ICs - the big stuff Hi!

 

While I'm on a roll, here are more tips, qualified by the usual disclaimer -
YMMV.

 

Small wattage soldering irons have so much thermal lag that components can
be barbecued before the solder melts.  I use and recommend a temperature
controlled iron of around 50 watts.  Go for something that has a fine tip,
but not a needle tip, as there's not much metal to conduct heat to the tip,
so thermal lag again.  Look for a short taper.

 

Get a GOOD solder sucker.  I have a small stock of Soldapullts from Edsyn.
Take a look at www.edsyn.com   and check out the last
few pages of their clearance items.  You should find some very inexpensive,
end of line, high quality solder suckers listed.  Get a spare tip or two
with the order.

 

Invest in a liquid flux pen.  It makes such a difference to have wiped a
spot on pads before soldering and wiping along the next bit of solder braid
you're using makes the braid much more effective.

 

73 Dave G3TJP  

 


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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[erehm]

Rich - Thanks.  The was really helpful.

Wayne - Could FSK control be added to ACC2 GPIO (like K3 ACC DIG0) and PTT
toggled via the microphone connector, thus both available simultaneously to
external RTTY software?   

I'm new at this, so apologies if I've proposed something stupid...

/eric, kj7ae

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Re: [Elecraft] P3 for Windows anyone? [END of Thread]

[tomb18]

Well things are moving pretty fast.  The application is almost finished, just
cleaning and polishing up.

I have put up a video at my new website taken with camtasia.  Thing is the
program is much more responsive than it seems.  Camtasiia slows things down
by at least a factor of 10!  The preformance of the app is just as good as
using the controls of the P3.

What you are seeing is a screen capture of a 1440x900 spectrum...just a
sneak preview!
I hope you can access the file.  The web site is just started.

http://va2fsq.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/04/p3.mp4

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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Don Wilhelm]

Mel,

Having the "right tools" certainly makes the task easier, and with the 
right tools, a task like changing a resistor is almost as easy as 
"falling off a log".

There are many who do not have the "right tools" at hand, and purchasing 
the "right tools" for just one task is not a reasonable solution if 
economics are to be considered.

So, there are OK alternate techniques, such as heating both ends of the 
component at the same time as Alan Bloom pointed out, or my usual 
solution of heating both ends alternately in rapid succession until the 
component moves, or the two soldering iron solution.  These all work, 
and IMHO have less probability for damage to the PC board than 
physically breaking the component in two.

Look at the size of the traces.  If the traces cover a relatively large 
area, then breaking the component will be OK, but if the traces are thin 
and the solder pads small,  breaking the component can damage the 
board.  Look at it first - the possibility of board damage comes under 
the category of "it all depends ..."

I do not have the "right tools" for SMD device removal, and it is not 
nice to get the second soldering iron fired up.  But, I will offer yet 
another technique that I use frequently - my pocket knife has a very 
thin blade edge (a single edged razor blade would serve a a substitute), 
and I can heat one end of a component and start (not force) the blade 
between the board and the component - OK, knife blade in - go heat the 
other end and it will pop right off.  Caution, do not attempt this with 
a knife blade honed at a knife "factory edge" angle - I sharpen my 
blades to an angle of about 15 degrees. so the knife edge makes a 
slow-rising ramp for the component.  That angle is similar to the angle 
found on a single edge razor blade (an Exacto knife blade has a steeper 
angle than I use on my knife blades - I do use diamond hones to produce 
the knife edge, final grit is 1200, so the edge has some "polish" to it).

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/19/2012 6:37 PM, Mel Farrer wrote:
> Well, you are both right and wrong.  Sorry,  The correct way to remove an SMT 
> component is with the right tools.  Most of the accepted makers of SMT 
> soldering and unsoldering equipment have gone to great lengths in 
> minimalizing the undesirable effects of over heating by having available tips 
> that match the size of the component like a saddle. The tip touches both the 
> ends of the component and the solder bridge to loosen the part and with a 
> vacuum pick either in the wand or standing by to suck the part of the PCB.  
> Honestly it is the most desirable way for minimum impact to the PCB trace.  
> In a off site situation I have done the leap frog on both ends and with a 
> dental pick lifted one side then with tweezers hold the part and unsolder the 
> offending side. The absolute worst why is to try and pry the part up while 
> overheating one end.  Ugly.  Sorry, guys the had to give my two bits worth.  
> Buy the way the right tips are far less expensive than a
>   damaged PCB.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
> Mel
>
> --- On Thu, 4/19/12, Alan Bloom  wrote:
>
> From: Alan Bloom
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
> To: "Ron D'Eau Claire"
> Cc: "'Elecraft Discussion List'"
> Date: Thursday, April 19, 2012, 2:58 PM
>
> On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
>> I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
>> by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
>> to the pcb.
> On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
> terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom).  So the way
> I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
> solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
> part so that it heats both ends at the same time.  Once the solder
> melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
> knife, whatever.
>
>> Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
>> essential.
> In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
> key to successful SMT work.  I have a binocular microscope with built in
> light that I bought brand new for about $300.  Whatever you use, make
> sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
> useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] P3, Remote Viewing via the Internet

[Bob W7KWS]

Well, I got the VGA to S-Video converter today from Amazon and hooked
everything up.  It does a decent job converting 1280x1024 RGB video to
composite and S-Video.  A cable from its RCA output direct to a TV looks
pretty good.

Once I introduce the Slingbox, it all falls apart.  One problem is that my
slingbox classic set for my maximum upload speed of 768 kilobits/sec really
degrades the video just as Daniel predicted it would.  It is still usable
but hard to look at.  The main difficulty is that the Slingbox introduces a
six-second buffer delay.  This just doesn't work for tuning a radio and
watching the results. 

Back to the drawing board.  I see that Grandstream makes a fairly
inexpensive ($120) video server (GXV3501) aimed at the security market.  Has
anyone used one of these who can give input on the buffer delay before I
waste the bucks?  One suggestion has been the Axis servers but they are half
a kilobuck.  A bit rich for this.

I may bring my K3 & P3 here and continue using the TS-480 for remote.  I
really miss the P3.

Thanks,

Bob, W7KWS

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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) 12VDC Current Mod Kit Received

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

True, but you must form the leads of the replacement RFC to stand "on end".
I find that much easier to do if I can actually touch the leads while
inserting them in the holes. 

Also, for those without a vacuum de-soldering iron, it's easier to clear the
through-plated holes by putting a solder-sucker on one side while touching
the iron to the other side. In this case the holes for the fuse must be
absolutely clear for the new fuse leads to pass through. They are a snug
fit. 

Tools and skills vary. Elecraft always provides a procedure that someone
with basic skills and common tools can do without danger to the components
or boards. The procedures are tested using only the tools listed.  Also, the
procedures assume the person doing the work has never had the covers off of
the rig before. 

In this case, pulling the fan panel and KPA3 is less than 5 minutes work,
even for someone doing it for the first time. It seemed a good investment of
that time. 

73, 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>Yes, it's just three screws to get the KPA3 module out and makes it 
>much, much easier to reach the parts without damaging anything, 
>especially if you have the KAT3 installed.
>

Even with the KAT3 installed, there shouldn't be any difficulty in reaching
the RFC and the "fuse" without removing the KPA3 or even unplugging the fuse
panel.

Medical forceps or hemostats are very useful for this kind of work, to reach
where fingers won't go. They give much better control than either pliers or
tweezers, and are also very good for handling TMP connectors.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek

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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) 12VDC Current Mod Kit Received

[Ian White GM3SEK]

Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>Yes, it's just three screws to get the KPA3 module out and makes it 
>much, much easier to reach the parts without damaging anything, 
>especially if you have the KAT3 installed.
>

Even with the KAT3 installed, there shouldn't be any difficulty in 
reaching the RFC and the "fuse" without removing the KPA3 or even 
unplugging the fuse panel.

Medical forceps or hemostats are very useful for this kind of work, to 
reach where fingers won't go. They give much better control than either 
pliers or tweezers, and are also very good for handling TMP connectors.


-- 

73 from Ian GM3SEK
http://www.ifwtech.co.uk/g3sek
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[John Ragle]

Clearly, the route to dealing with SMD's is a very personal one. I would 
like to offer my US$ 0.02 worth on this matter. A good, small-tip, 
temperature controlled soldering pencil is very important, as is fine 
gauge solder. I use a ceramic tipped iron which needs no extensive 
cleaning (a wipe on a damp sponge is all), and despite several years of 
use, there is no sign whatever of the tip being eaten away (as was 
common with the copper tips of yore). Fresh solder wick is 
indispensable. A comfortable, non-bulky head-mounted binocular (!) 
magnifier is also indispensable.

I also caged a few hemostats from my MD friends...these get a bit 
tarnished with repeated autoclaving, and are usually just discarded. The 
ones I use are quite delicate. They are of the "needle-holder" type 
(used in stitching) or the clamp kind. Some have serrated tips, others 
are smooth. These will give a gentle hold on even quite small parts, and 
can be used either for installation or removal of double-ended SMC's.

I use a small stainless scribing tool to hold parts in place for the 
initial tacking. I touched up the tip on a stone so that it is not 
needle-sharp. I have found this to be an invaluable tool for "Manhattan" 
and dead-bug construction as well.

There are excellent tutorials on SMC/SMD mounting that can be found 
using Google. A key psychological attribute is confidence.

John Ragle -- W1ZI
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Andrew Moore]

It's not too bad - I would just recommend NOT simply clipping the existing
SMG resistor - but rather heating it up and using tweezers to pull it off.
If you clip with cold solder, you risk pulling up traces from the board.
You may not mean "clip" in this sense but I thought I'd mention it just in
case... Heat each side, back & forth, until things are toasty enough that
you can just pull the SMT resistor off with tweezers. If it's taking too
long, be wary of overheating, take a break and try again.

Andrew / NV1B


On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 10:18 AM, Lee Buller  wrote:

>
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that
> that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but
> they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.
>  Now I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game
> for me
> from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and
> replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the
> little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Mel Farrer]

Well, you are both right and wrong.  Sorry,  The correct way to remove an SMT 
component is with the right tools.  Most of the accepted makers of SMT 
soldering and unsoldering equipment have gone to great lengths in minimalizing 
the undesirable effects of over heating by having available tips that match the 
size of the component like a saddle. The tip touches both the ends of the 
component and the solder bridge to loosen the part and with a vacuum pick 
either in the wand or standing by to suck the part of the PCB.  Honestly it is 
the most desirable way for minimum impact to the PCB trace.  In a off site 
situation I have done the leap frog on both ends and with a dental pick lifted 
one side then with tweezers hold the part and unsolder the offending side. The 
absolute worst why is to try and pry the part up while overheating one end.  
Ugly.  Sorry, guys the had to give my two bits worth.  Buy the way the right 
tips are far less expensive than a
 damaged PCB.

Mel, K6KBE

Mel

--- On Thu, 4/19/12, Alan Bloom  wrote:

From: Alan Bloom 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves
To: "Ron D'Eau Claire" 
Cc: "'Elecraft Discussion List'" 
Date: Thursday, April 19, 2012, 2:58 PM

On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
> by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
> to the pcb. 

On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom).  So the way
I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
part so that it heats both ends at the same time.  Once the solder
melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
knife, whatever.

> Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
> essential. 

In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
key to successful SMT work.  I have a binocular microscope with built in
light that I bought brand new for about $300.  Whatever you use, make
sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.

Alan N1AL


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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[George Dubovsky]

Both at work and at home, I use two irons to remove SMD parts. The earlier
poster that warned against pad damage when clipping a chip in half was
right on; the damage won't occur most of the time, but it will certainly
happen on the hardest to remove or the hardest to replace board ;-) And, I
maintain that there's a special place in hell reserved for people who
design in 0402 and smaller parts when they have plenty of real estate on
the board!!

73,

geo - n4ua

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 5:58 PM, Alan Bloom  wrote:

> On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
>
> > I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in
> half or
> > by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any
> damage
> > to the pcb.
>
> On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
> terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom).  So the way
> I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
> solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
> part so that it heats both ends at the same time.  Once the solder
> melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
> knife, whatever.
>
> > Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
> > essential.
>
> In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
> key to successful SMT work.  I have a binocular microscope with built in
> light that I bought brand new for about $300.  Whatever you use, make
> sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
> useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.
>
> Alan N1AL
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) 12VDC Current Mod Kit Received

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Yes, it's just three screws to get the KPA3 module out and makes it much,
much easier to reach the parts without damaging anything, especially if you
have the KAT3 installed. 

73,

Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
I just received this kit which increases the current available at the 12V DC
Out jack on the K3 to drive a P3 with P3SVGA. The kit consists of replacing
a surface mount diode, a through hole fuse and through hole choke. Elecraft
sent me this kit without my asking.   :)

I have not installed it yet but the diode is accessed by removing the bottom
panel. The fuse and RFC replacement require removing the top cover, fan
assembly and the KPA3 module (optional but recommended). The new fuse is
rated at 1.1 amp.

I expect to do the install tomorrow and will report back then.

Lou W2ROW


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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

OOPs, I misspoke. I wrote: " I dip the wick in some good quality rosin
solder..." I meant "I dip the wick in some good quality rosin FLUX..." 

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ron D'Eau Claire
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:23 PM
To: 'Elecraft Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

Keep in mind that all of the step-by-step procedures in the Elecraft
documents were actually done by the writer, tested by others, and then
refined and improved by customer feedback. That's in accordance with Wayne's
basic requirements for Elecraft manuals. So if you take the time to follow
them closely, you are getting the benefit of the experience of a great many
others who have been there before you.

I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
to the pcb. 

At least some techs at Elecraft use this approach too. 

Deciding which approach to use takes a little thought about the type of SMD.
Some chokes have very thick bodies that can be hard to cut. The danger there
is more about slipping and damaging a trace or adjacent component than
damaging the pads.

But chokes conduct heat very well, and the solder at the opposite end will
be softened if not melted making it especially easy to heat one end and at
least lift the part up if it doesn't fall off completely. Low value
resistors will act the same way. 

Unless someone has manually reworked the board, only a very thin film of
solder is connecting the part to the board in any case. You know how easily
your fine wire solder bends, consider how easily it would bend if flattened
to an extremely thin foil. In most cases, that's all that is bonding the
part to the board. 

All that's necessary to remove the component is to lift one end slightly to
break the bond at one end, then do the other. So, if a part feels stiff as
you lift it, go no farther than that. Even so, you'll find that most
components will pop straight up with almost no pressure when one end is
unsoldered. 

Be aware that some small components are glued to the board in the
manufacturing process before they are soldered. They may take a little more
"persuading" but it still works. (I've not encountered that in any Elecraft
products.) 

Resistors and capacitors are much smaller and easy to cut with sharp cutters
but I prefer heating and lifting when possible.

I prefer solder wick for cleaning pads and removing excess solder from
joints some over-zealous tech flooded with excess solder. I dip the wick in
some good quality rosin solder before applying it with my iron set at about
800F (to compensate for the heat sink effect of the wick). The added fresh
rosin makes a HUGE difference in how efficiently even the most expensive
wick pulls up solder.

My vacuum de-solderer is used only when cleaning out plated through holes. 

Success working with SMDs requires the right tools. As a minimum, you want a
temperature-controlled (and ESD safe) soldering station with a very fine
tip. I use a tiny spade tip (1mm) or a conical pointed tip for really small
stuff. Some good tweezers are a life-saver, but I never use the spring
loaded or locking forceps type. They easily launch an SMD across the room. I
use the type I must squeeze and then work with the least pressure needed. I
put the SMD in about the right spot, slide in into exact place and then hold
it down for soldering one end, often with a wooden toothpick. You don't need
more than two hands. Just hold the part with one hand and then touch your
iron to your wire solder to pick up a drop and carry it to one end of the
SMD. Use the tiniest drop possible. 

I talked my dentist out of some tools he no longer wanted. Most dentists
replace their tools regularly. Some dental picks and hoes are great for
manipulating tiny parts. 

Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
essential. 

Of course there are those who invest in multiple point soldering irons
special SMD holding jigs, etc. They speed up the work a lot but are not
really needed for casual building or rework. 

At the other extreme you can get away with very simple tools. I've sat
cross-legged on the deck of a ship rolling at sea holding a pc board between
my knees and replaced SMD's using a butane-powered soldering iron and done
it successfully, but I don't recommend it for myself or anyone else if
there's any better tools or work space available. 

New techniques take practice but you will be successful the first time by
simply following the recommended procedure, paying attention and taking your
time. 

73,

Ron AC7AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Alan Bloom]

On Thu, 2012-04-19 at 14:23 -0700, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
> by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
> to the pcb. 

On most two-terminal SMD parts (resistors, capacitors, etc.), the solder
terminal on each end extends on both sides (top and bottom).  So the way
I generally remove them is to tin the top of each contact with a little
solder and then lay the soldering iron tip across the top of the entire
part so that it heats both ends at the same time.  Once the solder
melts, you can push the part off the pads with a toothpick, Exacto
knife, whatever.

> Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
> essential. 

In my experience, being able to see the darn thing clearly is really the
key to successful SMT work.  I have a binocular microscope with built in
light that I bought brand new for about $300.  Whatever you use, make
sure to have a bright light, and some form of magnification is very
useful for those of us with middle-aged (or greater) eyes.

Alan N1AL


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[Elecraft] (K3) 12VDC Current Mod Kit Received

[Lou Voerman W2ROW]

I just received this kit which increases the current available at the 12V DC
Out jack on the K3 to drive a P3 with P3SVGA. The kit consists of replacing
a surface mount diode, a through hole fuse and through hole choke. Elecraft
sent me this kit without my asking.   :)

I have not installed it yet but the diode is accessed by removing the bottom
panel. The fuse and RFC replacement require removing the top cover, fan
assembly and the KPA3 module (optional but recommended). The new fuse is
rated at 1.1 amp.

I expect to do the install tomorrow and will report back then.

Lou W2ROW

--
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http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-12VDC-Current-Mod-Kit-Received-tp7482259p7482259.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Keep in mind that all of the step-by-step procedures in the Elecraft
documents were actually done by the writer, tested by others, and then
refined and improved by customer feedback. That's in accordance with Wayne's
basic requirements for Elecraft manuals. So if you take the time to follow
them closely, you are getting the benefit of the experience of a great many
others who have been there before you.

I have removed hundreds of two-terminal SMDs both by cutting them in half or
by unsoldering one end at a time and lifting the part with never any damage
to the pcb. 

At least some techs at Elecraft use this approach too. 

Deciding which approach to use takes a little thought about the type of SMD.
Some chokes have very thick bodies that can be hard to cut. The danger there
is more about slipping and damaging a trace or adjacent component than
damaging the pads.

But chokes conduct heat very well, and the solder at the opposite end will
be softened if not melted making it especially easy to heat one end and at
least lift the part up if it doesn't fall off completely. Low value
resistors will act the same way. 

Unless someone has manually reworked the board, only a very thin film of
solder is connecting the part to the board in any case. You know how easily
your fine wire solder bends, consider how easily it would bend if flattened
to an extremely thin foil. In most cases, that's all that is bonding the
part to the board. 

All that's necessary to remove the component is to lift one end slightly to
break the bond at one end, then do the other. So, if a part feels stiff as
you lift it, go no farther than that. Even so, you'll find that most
components will pop straight up with almost no pressure when one end is
unsoldered. 

Be aware that some small components are glued to the board in the
manufacturing process before they are soldered. They may take a little more
"persuading" but it still works. (I've not encountered that in any Elecraft
products.) 

Resistors and capacitors are much smaller and easy to cut with sharp cutters
but I prefer heating and lifting when possible.

I prefer solder wick for cleaning pads and removing excess solder from
joints some over-zealous tech flooded with excess solder. I dip the wick in
some good quality rosin solder before applying it with my iron set at about
800F (to compensate for the heat sink effect of the wick). The added fresh
rosin makes a HUGE difference in how efficiently even the most expensive
wick pulls up solder.

My vacuum de-solderer is used only when cleaning out plated through holes. 

Success working with SMDs requires the right tools. As a minimum, you want a
temperature-controlled (and ESD safe) soldering station with a very fine
tip. I use a tiny spade tip (1mm) or a conical pointed tip for really small
stuff. Some good tweezers are a life-saver, but I never use the spring
loaded or locking forceps type. They easily launch an SMD across the room. I
use the type I must squeeze and then work with the least pressure needed. I
put the SMD in about the right spot, slide in into exact place and then hold
it down for soldering one end, often with a wooden toothpick. You don't need
more than two hands. Just hold the part with one hand and then touch your
iron to your wire solder to pick up a drop and carry it to one end of the
SMD. Use the tiniest drop possible. 

I talked my dentist out of some tools he no longer wanted. Most dentists
replace their tools regularly. Some dental picks and hoes are great for
manipulating tiny parts. 

Good light and your favorite magnifiers (if needed) to see clearly are
essential. 

Of course there are those who invest in multiple point soldering irons
special SMD holding jigs, etc. They speed up the work a lot but are not
really needed for casual building or rework. 

At the other extreme you can get away with very simple tools. I've sat
cross-legged on the deck of a ship rolling at sea holding a pc board between
my knees and replaced SMD's using a butane-powered soldering iron and done
it successfully, but I don't recommend it for myself or anyone else if
there's any better tools or work space available. 

New techniques take practice but you will be successful the first time by
simply following the recommended procedure, paying attention and taking your
time. 

73,

Ron AC7AC 


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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Bob makes a good point IMHO in that cutting the part in half is not a good 
idea, it can damage the pads - been thereBetter, I suggest, to 
unsolder both ends at the same time, and then remove the part off the board. 
Unsoldering one end and lifting that end can also stress the pad at the 
other end.  There are, I believe, soldering iron bits available designed to 
apply heat to both ends of a SMD capacitor or resistor, useful I suppose if 
one is a manufacturer.  But for homebrewing in recent years I have been 
using two soldering irons, each with a small chisel bit, to remove SMD Rs or 
Cs when required.

SMDs are addictive!!

FWIW

73,
Geoff
LX2AO


On April 19, 2012, at 18:04 + 0200,  Bob K2TK wrote:


>I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea.  The stress is 
>applied
> to the pads
> and they can lift off the board.   The potential for board damage, is very 
> high.
>
> 73,
> Bob
> K2TK

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Re: [Elecraft] (K3) Headst/Mic

[Bill Conkling]

I'm in ham radio for fun.  I'm not trying to capture the 17-30 year old
market, or the "Rush hour" drive time slot.  I "just wanna have fun!"  I use
the CM500, set TXEQ at -16, -16, -16 the rest at 'zero' and go.  I just
can't tell the difference with the other settings.  I get great audio
reports so I'm happy. I really think the because we can make all the
adjustments, we feel we have to fidget with it and make far more out of it
than it is worth.  As long as you are understandable, what's the diff?

...bill  nr4c 

-Original Message-
From: Tom Boucher [mailto:t...@telemetry.demon.co.uk] 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 11:07 AM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] (K3) Headst/Mic

An alternative K3 headset in place of the Yamaha CM500, which appears to be
unobtainable in Europe, is the Koss SB45. I just bought one of these from an
internet supplier for 20 pounds (about $30) and it seems quite comfortable
and it does have an electret mic element, not a dynamic one. The 3.5mm jacks
plug directly into the rear panel Phones and Mic sockets. MAIN MENU: MIC SEL
is set for RPL with bias ON.

I have the MAIN MENU: TX EQ set for a rising characteristic
(0,0,0,+3,+6,+9,+12,+15dB) and it sounds just great in the monitor. However
on-air tests may show that a bass cut with flat characteristic
(-16,-16,-6,0dB the rest) per K9YC recommendation may be better.

73
Tom G3OLB
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Re: [Elecraft] k1 speaker output wimpy

[af6ni]

Thanks. Glad its not me!

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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Lee Buller]

Keith

You are my HERO!  Thanks.

Elecraft is the best!

Lee - K0WA



 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any 
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common 
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.







From: Keith 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net; k...@swbell.net
Sent: Thu, April 19, 2012 11:23:25 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

Lee;
Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
Keith

On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but 
they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.  Now 
I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game for 
>me
> from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
>replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
>   In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
>don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
>any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Richard Ferch]

KJ7AE wrote:

> Some questions about keying the K3/KX3 for FSK:

Answers interspersed with your questions below.

> Can someone post a schematic of what this (second) cable looks like
> (connectors, wiring) for the K3?

 shows the circuit; what is not 
shown there are the details of how to connect this circuit to specific 
radios. In the case of the K3, the "FSK to radio" (collector of the 
transistor) would be connected to pin 1 of the K3's ACC connector, and 
the circuit ground (emitter of the transistor) would be connected to pin 
5 of the same connector.

> Bonus points for describing it also for
> the KX3, which I have on order...

I believe this is not possible right now. Based on a quick reading of 
the KX3 manual (I may have missed something, of course), it looks to me 
as if the only place where such a connection would be possible on the 
KX3 would be the GPIO (ACC2) connector, and then only if the firmware 
supports using this input for FSK keying (ACC2 IO = FSK?). Note that 
some means to control TX/RX switching (PTT) is also required; using GPIO 
for FSK keying would mean that GPIO was not available for TX/RX control.

> How does the K3 Utility do it with one cable?  Via K3 commands?

Exactly; the K3 utility uses the KY and TB commands to send ASCII text 
to the K3 and manage the contents of the K3's transmit buffer.

> Why don't some of the RTTY programs implement the same thing?

To the best of my knowledge, the K3 and the KX3 are the only 
transceivers available that support the KY command for FSK RTTY (several 
radios support KY for CW keying, but not for RTTY). RTTY software that 
was written for use with other radios (such as MMTTY) uses the serial 
port method, which also works with the K3, so to date there has been no 
outright need and relatively little incentive to implement the KY 
method, except perhaps in software that is specifically written for the K3.

Implementing this method for RTTY is not a simple matter of just issuing 
KY commands for transmitted messages; it also requires polling with the 
TB command, both for buffer management and to determine when messages 
have been fully transmitted to determine when PTT can be turned off. 
Software developers may feel that the benefits to be gained from 
implementing this method do not justify the programming effort.

73,
Rich VE3KI
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Re: [Elecraft] k1 speaker output wimpy

[Don Wilhelm]

I would not call it "wimpy", but that smaller speaker used with the 
battery option is a bit on the "tinny" side.
Refer to the KBT1 instruction manual and check to be sure the speaker 
has the little foam ring and that it is inserted properly.

Another point with that internal battery option - I have seen some who 
have shorted out the batteries by placing the battery holder in 90 
degrees from the way it should be - the length of the batteries goes 
from the front to the back *not* side to side.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/19/2012 12:02 PM, af6ni wrote:
> I just purchased this K1 used. I have had others in the past, but this is the
> first with the battery option. It seems as though the audio from the speaker
> is no where near what I remember on other k1's. Is this common with the
> speaker on the case for the battery option?
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[JP O'Connor]

Now that is customer service!!!

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 12:23 PM, Keith  wrote:

> Lee;
> Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
> I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
> Keith
>
> On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
> > I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> > updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that
> that
> > changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT,
> but they
> > also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.
>  Now I
> > have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> > procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new
> game for me
> > from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
> >
> > Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and
> replacing
> > it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the
> little
> > resistor.
> >
> > Lee - K0WA
> > Nervous in Kansas
> >
> >
> >   In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If
> you don't
> > have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't
> find any
> > Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is
> Common
> > Sense divine?
> >
> > Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my
> mind.
> > -  John W. (Kansas)
> >
> > Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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> >
> >
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Tom Azlin N4ZPT]

Hi Bob,

I disagree. Did you read the Elecraft instructions??  Please do so then
comment to Elecraft on the errors in their ways.

Thanks and 73, tom n4zpt

On 4/19/2012 12:04 PM, Bob wrote:
> I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea. The stress
> is applied to the pads and they can lift off the board. The potential
> for board damage, is very high.
>
> 73, Bob K2TK
>
> On 4/19/2012 10:46 AM, Tom Azlin N4ZPT wrote:
>> Hi Lee,
>>
>> I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT resistor. Was
>> pretty easy. Cut the old one in half in place, then unsoldered the
>> two pieces.
>>
>>
>> 73, tom n4zpt
>>
>>
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Keith]

Lee;
Your repair report shows that mod was done in 2010.
I am sending you a copy of the report directly to your email.
Keith

On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but 
> they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.  Now 
> I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game for 
> me
> from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
> replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
>   In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
> don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
> any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Vic K2VCO]

Check if it's been done. Then if you need to, just do it. The likelihood of 
damaging 
anything is very small.

The component in question is large, as SMT parts go. You can do it. Read the 
instructions 
and jump in. You will feel great afterwards.

On 4/19/2012 7:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
>
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but 
> they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.  Now 
> I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game for 
> me
> from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
> replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas

-- 
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco/
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Bob]

I do not believe cutting the part in half is a good idea.  The stress is 
applied 
to the pads
and they can lift off the board.   The potential for board damage, is very high.

73,
Bob
K2TK

On 4/19/2012 10:46 AM, Tom Azlin N4ZPT wrote:
> Hi Lee,
>
> I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT resistor. Was pretty
> easy. Cut the old one in half in place, then unsoldered the two pieces.
>
>
> 73, tom n4zpt
>
>
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[Elecraft] k1 speaker output wimpy

[af6ni]

I just purchased this K1 used. I have had others in the past, but this is the
first with the battery option. It seems as though the audio from the speaker
is no where near what I remember on other k1's. Is this common with the
speaker on the case for the battery option?

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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Jack Berry]

Lee,

After doing the mod you are contemplating I formulated a new rule for the WE5ST 
shack - never touch another SMD. Once I had the mod in place, it wasn't that 
big 
a difference - not worth the risk to me. My P3 worked fine before the mod and 
for the kind of operating I do it was more that good enough.

I replaced the SMD with a leaded resistor supplied. I made it and the rig is 
working fine - huge surprise to me. It's the ugliest soldering job I ever did 
and I'm really happy I did not damage the board. I had a small iron, magnifier, 
etc. But I plan to leave that to the pros if the need ever arises.

I see fine, used a good magnifier/light combo, have pretty steady hands and 
have 
done a lot of soldering. For me, the risk is too high. I would prefer to pull 
the board and send it back for modification. 

That said - I suspect the replacement may have been already made since  you 
sent 
the rig back before. 






From: Lee Buller 
To: Elecraft Reflector 
Sent: Thu, April 19, 2012 9:20:03 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves


I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for 
updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that 
changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but they 
also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.  Now I 
have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this 
procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game for 
me 

from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.

Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
replacing 

it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little 
resistor.

Lee - K0WA
Nervous in Kansas


In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any 

Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common 
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[D Joyce]

Lee:  If the K3 has been back to Aptos for updates, I would expect that this 
change has already been made.  K3 Service should be able to tell you if this 
is the case.  Also I believe the mod instructions provide info on how to 
measure and confirm the value of the current resistor and whether or not a 
change is necessary.  Good Luck

You will really enjoy the P3.

73,  Doug  VE3MV

- Original Message - 
From: "Lee Buller" 
To: "Elecraft Reflector" 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 10:18 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves


>
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that 
> that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but 
> they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor. 
> Now I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game 
> for me
> from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
> replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the 
> little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
> In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
> don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't 
> find any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is 
> Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my 
> mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[erehm]

> > ...how do you key the rig? Just set up your software for DTR/RTS via the
COM port... 
> Yep, that's the way I do it. Works for digital, CW, and FSK.

Some questions about keying the K3/KX3 for FSK:

1.  Can someone post a schematic of what this (second) cable looks like
(connectors, wiring) for the K3?  Bonus points for describing it also for
the KX3, which I have on order...   (A PDF could be posted 
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/KX3/files/ here .)

2.  How does the K3 Utility do it with one cable?  Via K3 commands?  Why
don't some of the RTTY programs implement the same thing?

Thanks,

/eric, kj7ae

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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Joel Black]

I started building kits in January of 2011.  Been a ham for almost 20 
years and missed the "Heathkit Generation."  Why do I mention this?  
Well, the kits I wanted to build were SDR's (SoftRocks to be specific).  
They are great little radios and wonderful for those wanting to 
experiment with SDR; however, they have lots of SMD parts.

The only things that will affect whether or not you can do it is (and 
I'm not trying to be funny here):

1.  If you physically cannot see,
2.  You shake too bad to be able to handle the parts, or
3.  You are intimidated.

I *was* #3 (and I have fairly large hands).  Now, take a look at this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lauw0bSe-Cw

...and this:

http://www.sparkfun.com/datasheets/Prototyping/General/SMD-SolderingWorkshop.pdf

Bottom line, if you *want* to do it, you can do it.  Go to the SoftRock 
Yahoo Group and ask some of those guys their ages.  Some of them are in 
their 70's and older and do not have an issue with SMD's.

You know what sucks?  Toroids!  I hate them!

I'm not typing this to make fun of, intimidate, or harass you.  Rather, 
I am doing this to motivate you.  IT CAN BE DONE!

73,
Joel - W4JBB

On 4/19/2012 9:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but 
> they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.  Now 
> I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game for 
> me
> from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
> replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
>   In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
> don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
> any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Jim Brown]

On 4/19/2012 7:30 AM, Mike wrote:
> The only drawback I see to using VOX for the digital modes is that since
> they are SSB, VOX for phone is on, and I really dislike that, preferring
> a foot switch. Wayne has promised it's on the list.

There's a simple menu setting to disable the Mic Input and use only the 
Line Input of the K3, so there's no chance of accidentally transmitting 
mic audio.

I use VOX for SSB too -- I find foot switches very difficult to use, 
they're always sliding away from my foot.

73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] (K3) Headst/Mic

[Tom Boucher]

An alternative K3 headset in place of the Yamaha CM500, which appears to be 
unobtainable in Europe, is the Koss SB45. I just bought one of these from an 
internet supplier for 20 pounds (about $30) and it seems quite comfortable and 
it does have an electret mic element, not a dynamic one. The 3.5mm jacks plug 
directly into the rear panel Phones and Mic sockets. MAIN MENU: MIC SEL is set 
for RPL with bias ON.

I have the MAIN MENU: TX EQ set for a rising characteristic 
(0,0,0,+3,+6,+9,+12,+15dB) and it sounds just great in the monitor. However 
on-air tests may show that a bass cut with flat characteristic (-16,-16,-6,0dB 
the rest) per K9YC recommendation may be better.

73
Tom G3OLB
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Jim Brown]

On 4/19/2012 6:05 AM, Ian Kahn wrote:
> If you don't use some sort of external interface, how do you key the 
> rig?  Just set up your software for DTR/RTS via the COM port if you 
> have the RS-232 cable connected?

VOX

Jim
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Re: [Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Tom Azlin N4ZPT]

Hi Lee,

I replaced that SMT resistor with the supplied SMT resistor. Was pretty 
easy. Cut the old one in half in place, then unsoldered the two pieces.

Then made sure the solder on both sides was good and cleaned most off. 
Was not much there. then tacked the SMT replacement in place on one 
side. Then was just touch the soldering iron on the other side to flow 
the solder ( might have added a spot of fresh solder.) Then soldered the 
other side and all was perfect. There is also plenty room to put in the 
other resistor resistor with leads per the instructions.

I had a pair of fine tweezers with a rubber band to hold the SMT 
resistor while I did the tack on one side. Seemed to work well. Not much 
solder at all is needed.

73, tom n4zpt

On 4/19/2012 10:18 AM, Lee Buller wrote:
>
> I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for
> updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that
> changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but 
> they
> also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.  Now 
> I
> have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this
> procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game for 
> me
> from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.
>
> Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
> replacing
> it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little
> resistor.
>
> Lee - K0WA
> Nervous in Kansas
>
>
>   In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
> don't
> have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
> any
> Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common
> Sense divine?
>
> Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind.
> -  John W. (Kansas)
>
> Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Mike]

When I first got my K3, I was adamant about using an interface, and FSK. 
I've since changed my opinion.

The only drawback I see to using VOX for the digital modes is that since 
they are SSB, VOX for phone is on, and I really dislike that, preferring 
a foot switch. Wayne has promised it's on the list.

73, Mike NF4L

On 4/19/12 9:48 AM, Tony Estep wrote:
> On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 8:05 AM, Ian Kahn  wrote:
>
>> ...how do you key the rig? Just set up your software for DTR/RTS via the
>> COM port...
> =
> Yep, that's the way I do it. Works for digital, CW, and FSK. Don Wilhelm
> points out that for digital modes including AFSK you can just key the rig
> via Vox, no DTR/RTS required.
>
> As a side note, the KX3 doesn't allow for direct DTR/RTS keying, which led
> to some complaining in earlier posts. However it does provide for CW via
> macros, which partly solves it; or you can make a special cable that will
> key the rig from DTR or RTS.
>
> A number of the problems that are posted here by guys starting up with RTTY
> or digital modes are occasioned by the fact that they bought an interface
> and are having problems getting it set up correctly. The K3 was designed to
> eliminate the need for an interface.
>
> Tony KT0NY
>
>
>


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[Elecraft] SMT and the K3 - Nerves

[Lee Buller]

I have SN 443 - an early model of the K3.  It has been back to Aptos for 
updates.  Now then, I just got at P3 and included in that is a kit that that 
changes a resistor on the K3 to give 10 db more to the P3.  It is SMT, but they 
also include a small resistor if you don't want to use the SMT resistor.  Now I 
have visors and I have magnifying glass on an armbut LOOKING at this 
procedure and the K3it gives megreat pause.  This is a whole new game for 
me 
from the K2.  I have huge hands and this just makes me nervous.

Somebody.make me un-nervous about clipping off an SMT resistor and 
replacing 
it with either another SMT (Like that is going to happen - NOT) or the little 
resistor.

Lee - K0WA
Nervous in Kansas


 In our day and age it seems that Common Sense is in short supply.  If you 
don't 
have any Common Sense - get some Common Sense and use it.  If you can't find 
any 
Common Sense, ask for help from somebody who has some Common Sense.  Is Common 
Sense divine?

Common Sense is the image of the Creator expressing revealed truth in my mind. 
-  John W. (Kansas)

Never interfere with anything that isn't bothering you.
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: P3, Remote Viewing via the Internet

[VE3GNO Daniel]

One box that I am thinking is this one.:
http://www.axis.com/files/datasheet/ds_241qs_32377_en_0808_lo.pdf
Is used in video survelance but maybe can be used by us also in ham radio 
applications. Anyone ever played with it?
Tnx

VE3GNO Daniel



From: Bob W7KWS 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:43:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fw: P3, Remote Viewing via the Internet

Daniel,

Thanks for the tips.  I have RemoteRigs between my two locations which will
be converted from my TS-480 to the K3/0 and K3 combination.  My router is a
Dual WAN Peplink Balance 20 since I have both DSL and cable here.  Both ISPs
have troubles from time to time and the router tests each circuit every five
seconds for Internet and fails over to the alternate ISP if necessary.  The
real bottleneck will be at the other end where the P3 will have to work
through a 768 kilobit/sec. upload limit.

The router on that end is a Cisco SPA-3102 VOIP router and I'm not likely
going to change that or I'll not have off-premise-extension telephone
between the two locations.  Since it tags its own voice packets for QOS
maybe it can be configured to do the same for other protocols.  I'll check
into it.  Maybe the RemoteRig has that capability.  I'll check that as well.

My round trip ping time between the two locations is usually around 110
msec. which has not been a problem to date.  My worry on latency is that I
don't currently know what the Slingbox will add to that with its video
buffer.  I know it will be some but I really am not sure how to measure that
from one end without a real time reference as to when the video was sent.  I
guess I'll just have to try it.

Good ideas Daniel.  Thanks!

Bob, W7KWS

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: P3, Remote Viewing via the Internet

[VE3GNO Daniel]

Hi Bob,
 
With only 768 kbps you might have a problem. The sling codecs are not very 
bandwidth optimized like flash let's say or others, on the other hand Sling 
have a very bad habit to eat the entire bandwidth. 768kbps is a marginal speed 
for sling, the image will be OK but you won't see details. On the other hand 
based on my experience bandwidth fluctuates (kind of  networking QSB :-)) and 
sling is adjusting codecs accordingly, is very tolerand in bandwidth variations 
(you start getting an image from 3-400Kbps but low rez) of course the immage 
quality is adjusted accordingly. Maybe your providers from Hawaii to State of 
WA are more consistent but in my case the bandwidth from Europe to Canada is 
constantly qsb-ing from 1000 to 1500kbps. Now to see P3 details over sling you 
need at least 1Mbps, at 768Kbps the resolution will be marginal, and this is 
best case scenario. The old Windows XP Sling Players had the possibility to set 
the resolution manualy so let's
 say you want always low res you could set-up and the eaten bandwidth never 
crossed but with new player that feature is not anymore available.Other remark 
the audio channel even if you don;t have any sourse plugged in mono set-up will 
eat aprox 30-40Kbps (set-up as mono audio source, if is stereo you waste 
90Kbps) and audio side cannot be disabled. 
I am thinking for myself to use a kind of flash server instead of sling that 
can be optimzed for low bandwidth, even a webcam will eat less than sling. QoS 
will not help you, is just a way to prioritize the packets and eventually to do 
limit the bandwidth but the router must mark the packets comming from a 
specific application or device. to do QoS If you have only one device like 
sling is easy to mark all packets based on IP or MAC, but in case of remoterig 
there are different services comming from that device so needs to be prioritize 
base on ports or on application level. Remoterig for the moment does not know 
qos so all must be done in the router, I have no clue abt Peplink but with 
SPA3102 is a problem, the only packets marked as Voice with highest priority 
are the one comming from internal sip client (used by voip ports), maybe I am 
wrong but this is what I remember. 
I am also looking for a decent blackbox solution, once I'll got something I'll 
post here resultslet's see. Any suggestions from forum users are welcome.
 
73
VE3GNO Daniel



From: Bob W7KWS 
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Thursday, April 19, 2012 2:43:32 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Fw: P3, Remote Viewing via the Internet

Daniel,

Thanks for the tips.  I have RemoteRigs between my two locations which will
be converted from my TS-480 to the K3/0 and K3 combination.  My router is a
Dual WAN Peplink Balance 20 since I have both DSL and cable here.  Both ISPs
have troubles from time to time and the router tests each circuit every five
seconds for Internet and fails over to the alternate ISP if necessary.  The
real bottleneck will be at the other end where the P3 will have to work
through a 768 kilobit/sec. upload limit.

The router on that end is a Cisco SPA-3102 VOIP router and I'm not likely
going to change that or I'll not have off-premise-extension telephone
between the two locations.  Since it tags its own voice packets for QOS
maybe it can be configured to do the same for other protocols.  I'll check
into it.  Maybe the RemoteRig has that capability.  I'll check that as well.

My round trip ping time between the two locations is usually around 110
msec. which has not been a problem to date.  My worry on latency is that I
don't currently know what the Slingbox will add to that with its video
buffer.  I know it will be some but I really am not sure how to measure that
from one end without a real time reference as to when the video was sent.  I
guess I'll just have to try it.

Good ideas Daniel.  Thanks!

Bob, W7KWS

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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

On 4/19/2012 9:05 AM, Ian Kahn wrote:
> If you don't use some sort of external interface, how do you key the
> rig? Just set up your software for DTR/RTS via the COM port if you
> have the RS-232 cable connected?

You can do that if your logging software allows it (in some cases the
digital software and logging software are separation programs and can
not share the serial port) or you can use VOX to key the transmitter
when the AFSK/PSK tones begin.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 4/19/2012 9:05 AM, Ian Kahn wrote:
> If you don't use some sort of external interface, how do you key the rig?
> Just set up your software for DTR/RTS via the COM port if you have the
> RS-232 cable connected?
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Ian
> Ian Kahn, KM4IK
> Roswell, GA  EM74ua
> km4ik@gmail.com
> K3 #281, P3 #688
> HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team
>
>
> On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 12:54 AM, Jim Brownwrote:
>
>> On 4/18/2012 7:11 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
>>> It's worth pointing out that no interface is necessary with the K3. You
>>> don't need a Signalink or Rigblaster or whatever. All interfacing can be
>>> done with cables directly from K3 to PC.
>>
>> Right, and I've long promoted that concept.  BUT -- I've recently been
>> comparing several (five so far) outboard A/D converters, four models
>> that connect to the computer via USB, on that uses Firewire, and I've
>> found that all of them result in noticeably more reliable decoding of
>> RTTY and JT65 signals, especially weaker signals.
>>
>> I use MMTTY with N1MM for RTTY contesting, and MMTTY with DXKeeper for
>> general operating.  I use AFSK and VOX.  As K6DGW has observed, as long
>> as you take reasonable care to get levels right, it's just as clean and
>> reliable as FSK, and the hook up is really simple.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>>   __
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>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Joe Subich, W4TV]

On 4/19/2012 12:54 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
 >
 > Right, and I've long promoted that concept.  BUT -- I've recently been
 > comparing several (five so far) outboard A/D converters, four models
 > that connect to the computer via USB, on that uses Firewire, and I've
 > found that all of them result in noticeably more reliable decoding of
 > RTTY and JT65 signals, especially weaker signals.

This is because the computer based sound cards - particularly those in
laptops and netbooks - are so bad.  The internal power supplies are
typically very noisy and the computer main board designers do not take
care of things like common audio return paths, proper power supply
bypassing, "pin 1" issues, etc.

The external sound cards (A/D converters) are generally powered from
the computer's USB supply which is separate from the digital (bus)
5V supplies and much cleaner.  In addition, good external sound card
designs add a significant amount of power supply bypassing, keep the
input and output returns separate from power supply returns to the
extent possible and often provide additional power supply regulation.

Several years ago I measured the noise floor of a couple laptops,
a couple generic PCI add on cards, a typical USB sound card and
the sound card in the original microHAM Digikeyer.  The laptops
had the worst noise floors, the PCI add-ons were slightly better,
the USB soundcard (an original Creative SoundBlaster MP3) was 10
dB lower than the laptops and the DigiKeyer was another 3 dB better
than the Creative).

I have not repeated those measurements recently but given the
performance of laptops I've seen since then (and reports from EME
users of current microHAM interfaces) I do not expect there has
been much change in the relative performance.

73,

... Joe, W4TV


On 4/19/2012 12:54 AM, Jim Brown wrote:
> On 4/18/2012 7:11 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
>> It's worth pointing out that no interface is necessary with the K3. You
>> don't need a Signalink or Rigblaster or whatever. All interfacing can be
>> done with cables directly from K3 to PC.
>
> Right, and I've long promoted that concept.  BUT -- I've recently been
> comparing several (five so far) outboard A/D converters, four models
> that connect to the computer via USB, on that uses Firewire, and I've
> found that all of them result in noticeably more reliable decoding of
> RTTY and JT65 signals, especially weaker signals.
>
> I use MMTTY with N1MM for RTTY contesting, and MMTTY with DXKeeper for
> general operating.  I use AFSK and VOX.  As K6DGW has observed, as long
> as you take reasonable care to get levels right, it's just as clean and
> reliable as FSK, and the hook up is really simple.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Tony Estep]

On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 8:05 AM, Ian Kahn  wrote:

> ...how do you key the rig? Just set up your software for DTR/RTS via the
> COM port...

=
Yep, that's the way I do it. Works for digital, CW, and FSK. Don Wilhelm
points out that for digital modes including AFSK you can just key the rig
via Vox, no DTR/RTS required.

As a side note, the KX3 doesn't allow for direct DTR/RTS keying, which led
to some complaining in earlier posts. However it does provide for CW via
macros, which partly solves it; or you can make a special cable that will
key the rig from DTR or RTS.

A number of the problems that are posted here by guys starting up with RTTY
or digital modes are occasioned by the fact that they bought an interface
and are having problems getting it set up correctly. The K3 was designed to
eliminate the need for an interface.

Tony KT0NY



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Re: [Elecraft] Fw: RTTY Questions

[Ian Kahn]

If you don't use some sort of external interface, how do you key the rig?
Just set up your software for DTR/RTS via the COM port if you have the
RS-232 cable connected?

Thanks and 73,

Ian
Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team


On Thu, Apr 19, 2012 at 12:54 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

> On 4/18/2012 7:11 PM, Tony Estep wrote:
> > It's worth pointing out that no interface is necessary with the K3. You
> > don't need a Signalink or Rigblaster or whatever. All interfacing can be
> > done with cables directly from K3 to PC.
>
> Right, and I've long promoted that concept.  BUT -- I've recently been
> comparing several (five so far) outboard A/D converters, four models
> that connect to the computer via USB, on that uses Firewire, and I've
> found that all of them result in noticeably more reliable decoding of
> RTTY and JT65 signals, especially weaker signals.
>
> I use MMTTY with N1MM for RTTY contesting, and MMTTY with DXKeeper for
> general operating.  I use AFSK and VOX.  As K6DGW has observed, as long
> as you take reasonable care to get levels right, it's just as clean and
> reliable as FSK, and the hook up is really simple.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
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