[Elecraft] For sale: K3s and P3 panadapter

[Nicklas Johnson]

Because I'm so happy with my K4 and now need to make some room in the
shack, I'm selling my K3s and P3.

K3s is the 100W version, has the auto-tuner, 2.7kHz SSB filter, K144XV 2m
transverter (without reference lock board), KFL3B-FM filter, and KBPF3
modified general-coverage board.  I can't say for certain whether the KBPF3
works as I never got around to setting up a proper antenna for it.  Power
cable, manual, original box, and Fred Cady - KE7X's K3s+P3 book.

P3 is the basic panadapter with no extras (ie, no keyboard or display).
Interconnects, manual, original box.

Both come from a smoke-free home and have been used very gently.

More details and pictures on QRZ:
https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/elecraft-k3s.908282/
https://forums.qrz.com/index.php?threads/elecraft-p3-panadapter.908284/

Asking $2600 for the K3s and $600 for the P3, but will entertain a discount
if someone wants to take both.  Price includes shipping and escrow fees.

Please reply to me directly/off-list if you have any questions.

Nick / N6OL
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Re: [Elecraft] KBPF3 mod SMD capacitors

[Nicklas Johnson]

Thank you, Keith, this is exactly what I needed to know!

   Nick

On Tue, 25 Jul 2023 at 12:54, Keith Trinity WE6R  wrote:

> We use; C3,C4,C60.1uF , 50V, 10% X7R 0603Elecraft part # E530306
> It is not critical.
>
> Mouser and others have them;
> https://www.mouser.com/c/?q=0.1%20uF%2C50V%2C10%25%2CX7R%2C0603%2CSMD
>
> DigiKey;
> https://www.digikey.com/en/products/filter/ceramic-capacitors/60?s
>
> FYI, it is easiest to just tack the new capacitor on the old one instead
> of removing the old one, wicking, cleaning.
> Keith WE6R Elecraft K3/K4
>
>
>

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*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
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[Elecraft] KBPF3 mod SMD capacitors

[Nicklas Johnson]

I know the original KBPF3 mod kit is no longer available, but I've come
across an unmodified board that I'm considering trying to source parts for
to handle the mod myself.

I did some searching and I read that a Nichicon RL81C221MDN1KX might work
for the electrolytic cap, but I haven't found what the spec is for the 0603
SMD 0.1uF capacitors.
Are these MLCCs, such that something like VJ0603Y104JXJAC would work?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

Happy to report that the subwoofer problem got about 95% better with the
placement of ferrites immediately before the subwoofer on the power cord,
the LFE channel and the speaker channels.  It still picks up just a tiny
bit of 20m racket even with nothing connected to it, which I suspect could
be a consequence of the speaker coil picking up the signal and getting
rectified in the subwoofer's amplifier.  I think it would be difficult to
mitigate without more effort than the very small amount of sound is worth.
(I'd probably have to disassemble the subwoofer and add a new cable
between the amplifier and the speaker that took a bunch of turns through a
ferrite ring... something I'm not willing to do yet.)

(The question about the isolation transformers came up because the
subwoofer must necessarily plug into a different outlet than the receiver
due to its placement, and the answer is to add the ferrite as close to the
amplifier as possible, on both ends, so necessarily after the isolation
transformers, right up against the subwoofer is the place to go.)

Adding ferrite to all the speaker wires, the LFE channel, and the power
cord at the receiver as Dave (NK7Z) suggested got rid of the small
amount of noise that was being picked up on other channels, so I'd call
that piece a total success.  Because of the way our AV cabinet is arranged,
I needed the ferrites to be a little bit closer to the wall than to the
receiver, so I gave the wire leading to the receiver several twists on its
way for those last few feet.

In all cases I was able to get at least 7 turns through the clamps I
bought... they were pretty good hefty sizes.

Incidentally, Mouser has very good prices and reasonably priced shipping on
Fair-Ride material 31 clamp-ons, and it pays to buy in bulk-- 10 costs the
same as 7.  They also vacuum-seal and bubble-wrap the hell out of it so it
arrives intact.

Leaving this message so it's searchable by the next person.  As always, I
appreciate all the help and suggestions from everyone.

   Nick

On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 17:01, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:

> I certainly agree.  And of course there's no "one size fits all" for RFI
> problems.  I think it's somewhat likely I have multiple problems going on
> here too; I noticed, for example, that even when it's completely
> disconnected from all its audio inputs, I can still hear a little racket on
> the sub; it may need a hefty ferrite on the power cord, or I suppose it's
> always possible it's picking up 20m from the speaker coil, then rectifying
> that.  I won't know until I get some appropriate ferrites delivered to test
> out (mid-week).
>
> Sadly, it seems like most consumer-grade audio equipment is optimized more
> for cost than for design quality and RFI suppression, even equipment that's
> supposed to be "high-end."  And then sometimes you can buy a piece of cheap
> gear and it rejects RF better than high-end stuff.  Kind of a crap shoot.
>
> I appreciate all the suggestions and pointers.  In the absolute worst
> case, I can always play on another band when my better half wants to watch
> a movie or play a game, too.
>
>Nick
>
>
> On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 16:39, Dave Cole  wrote:
>
>> All of Jim's material is like gold for RFI suppression.
>>
>> 73, and thanks,
>> Dave (NK7Z)
>> https://www.nk7z.net
>> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
>> ARRL Technical Specialist
>> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>>
>> On 5/23/20 2:02 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
>> > Thanks, Dave.  A very good point about the amp picking up stray RF off
>> > the cable and returning it as audio; I'll be sure to clamp down on both
>> > ends.
>> >
>> > It's definitely not a new problem, and I've used Jim's recommendations
>> > to much success in the past.  In fact, I referenced it again today
>> > because I couldn't remember which mix of Fair-Rite was the right one.
>> >
>> > Nick
>> >
>> > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:58, Dave Cole > > <mailto:d...@nk7z.net>> wrote:
>> >
>> > I would put the ferrite material as close to the speaker as
>> possible,
>> > and as close as possible to the amp...
>> >
>> > It is important you also protect the amp from stray RF.  If the
>> speaker
>> > cable is picking up RF, and feeding it back into the audio amp
>> output
>> > stage, you can get rectification within that stage in the amp, thus
>> > feeding actual audio, (not RF), back down the speaker cable into the
>> > speaker(s), and then you start hearing things on the speaker(s).
>> >
>> > I had a ham friend living 700 or 800 feet from me-- when he lit off
>> his
>> >

Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

I certainly agree.  And of course there's no "one size fits all" for RFI
problems.  I think it's somewhat likely I have multiple problems going on
here too; I noticed, for example, that even when it's completely
disconnected from all its audio inputs, I can still hear a little racket on
the sub; it may need a hefty ferrite on the power cord, or I suppose it's
always possible it's picking up 20m from the speaker coil, then rectifying
that.  I won't know until I get some appropriate ferrites delivered to test
out (mid-week).

Sadly, it seems like most consumer-grade audio equipment is optimized more
for cost than for design quality and RFI suppression, even equipment that's
supposed to be "high-end."  And then sometimes you can buy a piece of cheap
gear and it rejects RF better than high-end stuff.  Kind of a crap shoot.

I appreciate all the suggestions and pointers.  In the absolute worst case,
I can always play on another band when my better half wants to watch a
movie or play a game, too.

   Nick


On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 16:39, Dave Cole  wrote:

> All of Jim's material is like gold for RFI suppression.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 5/23/20 2:02 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > Thanks, Dave.  A very good point about the amp picking up stray RF off
> > the cable and returning it as audio; I'll be sure to clamp down on both
> > ends.
> >
> > It's definitely not a new problem, and I've used Jim's recommendations
> > to much success in the past.  In fact, I referenced it again today
> > because I couldn't remember which mix of Fair-Rite was the right one.
> >
> > Nick
> >
> > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:58, Dave Cole  > <mailto:d...@nk7z.net>> wrote:
> >
> > I would put the ferrite material as close to the speaker as possible,
> > and as close as possible to the amp...
> >
> > It is important you also protect the amp from stray RF.  If the
> speaker
> > cable is picking up RF, and feeding it back into the audio amp output
> > stage, you can get rectification within that stage in the amp, thus
> > feeding actual audio, (not RF), back down the speaker cable into the
> > speaker(s), and then you start hearing things on the speaker(s).
> >
> > I had a ham friend living 700 or 800 feet from me-- when he lit off
> his
> > KW, I would hear SSB in the speakers, even with the amp off, and
> > unplugged.  This was happening via the method above.
> >
> > See Jim's paper on quieting things down:
> >
> > http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
> >
> > 73, and thanks,
> > Dave (NK7Z)
> > https://www.nk7z.net
> > ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> > ARRL Technical Specialist
> > ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> >
> > On 5/23/20 10:19 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> >  > I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their
> > next two
> >  > smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my
> > desk for
> >  > various applications:
> >  >
> https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/
> >  >
> >  > Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of
> wall-connection-->isolation
> >  > transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before
> the
> >  > subwoofer then?
> >  >
> >  > I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had
> > problems
> >  > with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other
> > speakers in
> >  > the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that
> > wouldn't
> >  > hurt.
> >  >
> >  > Nick
> >  >
> >  >
> >  > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole  > <mailto:d...@nk7z.net>> wrote:
> >  >
> >  >> Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
> >  >> rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through
> each,
> >  >> tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.
> >  >>
> >  >> 73, and thanks,
> >  >> Dave (NK7Z)
> >  >> https://www.nk7z.net
> >  >> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> >  >> ARRL Technical Specialist
> >  >> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources

Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

Thanks, Dave.  A very good point about the amp picking up stray RF off the
cable and returning it as audio; I'll be sure to clamp down on both ends.

It's definitely not a new problem, and I've used Jim's recommendations to
much success in the past.  In fact, I referenced it again today because I
couldn't remember which mix of Fair-Rite was the right one.

   Nick

On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:58, Dave Cole  wrote:

> I would put the ferrite material as close to the speaker as possible,
> and as close as possible to the amp...
>
> It is important you also protect the amp from stray RF.  If the speaker
> cable is picking up RF, and feeding it back into the audio amp output
> stage, you can get rectification within that stage in the amp, thus
> feeding actual audio, (not RF), back down the speaker cable into the
> speaker(s), and then you start hearing things on the speaker(s).
>
> I had a ham friend living 700 or 800 feet from me-- when he lit off his
> KW, I would hear SSB in the speakers, even with the amp off, and
> unplugged.  This was happening via the method above.
>
> See Jim's paper on quieting things down:
>
> http://www.audiosystemsgroup.com/RFI-Ham.pdf
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 5/23/20 10:19 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their next
> two
> > smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my desk for
> > various applications:
> > https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/
> >
> > Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of wall-connection-->isolation
> > transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before the
> > subwoofer then?
> >
> > I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had problems
> > with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other speakers
> in
> > the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that wouldn't
> > hurt.
> >
> > Nick
> >
> >
> > On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole  wrote:
> >
> >> Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
> >> rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each,
> >> tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.
> >>
> >> 73, and thanks,
> >> Dave (NK7Z)
> >> https://www.nk7z.net
> >> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> >> ARRL Technical Specialist
> >> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
> >>
> >> On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> >>> The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
> >>> theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
> >>> running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and
> >> plugging
> >>> the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in
> turn
> >>> resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
> >>> between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
> >>> low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
> >>> that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on
> the
> >>> left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with
> >> the
> >>> coaxial cable.
> >>>
> >>> Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
> >>> terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
> >>> electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
> >>> clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
> >>> them.
> >>>
> >>> My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
> >>> immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
> >>> side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
> >>> folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any
> >> reason
> >>> the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.
> >>>
> >>> Thoughts?
> >>>
> >>>  Nick
> >>>
> >> __
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> 

Re: [Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

I've got a set of these on the way, as well as a handful of their next two
smaller siblings, just because I like to have a variety in my desk for
various applications:
https://www.fair-rite.com/product/round-cable-snap-its-2631181381/

Given the arrangement at the subwoofer of wall-connection-->isolation
transformers-->subwoofer, would you put the ferrite right before the
subwoofer then?

I didn't think about adding one at the amp; though I haven't had problems
with any common mode noise getting into the amp from the other speakers in
the room, I can't be sure about the LFE coaxial cable, so that wouldn't
hurt.

   Nick


On Sat, 23 May 2020 at 10:08, Dave Cole  wrote:

> Grab some FT-240/31 ferrites from Fair-Rite, (these are the large
> rings), and put seven or eight turns of speaker cable through each,
> tight wound.  Add one at the speaker, and one at the amp.
>
> 73, and thanks,
> Dave (NK7Z)
> https://www.nk7z.net
> ARRL Volunteer Examiner
> ARRL Technical Specialist
> ARRL Asst. Director, NW Division, Technical Resources
>
> On 5/23/20 9:37 AM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
> > theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
> > running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and
> plugging
> > the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
> > resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
> > between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
> > low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
> > that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
> > left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with
> the
> > coaxial cable.
> >
> > Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
> > terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
> > electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
> > clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
> > them.
> >
> > My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
> > immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
> > side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
> > folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any
> reason
> > the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.
> >
> > Thoughts?
> >
> > Nick
> >
> __
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-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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[Elecraft] ferrites for subwoofer: before or after isolation transformers?

[Nicklas Johnson]

The backstory as briefly as I can make it: I wanted to place my home
theater subwoofer in the corner of our living room; doing so required
running two speaker wires and a coaxial cable under the house and plugging
the subwoofer into a different outlet than the AV receiver; this in turn
resulted in ground-loop hum (because of a tiny difference in potential
between the two outlets) which I worked around with a set of 1:1
low-frequency audio isolation transformers.  The subwoofer is of a type
that produces a signal based not only on the LFE channel, but also on the
left and right speaker channels, thus the two speaker wires along with the
coaxial cable.

Now the subwoofer is picking up common mode noise on 20m, which isn't
terribly surprising, as this happens a good bit with consumer-grade
electronics. I'm hoping to mitigate this with some substantial ferrite
clamps for all three connections and as many turns as I can get through
them.

My hunch is that the best place in the path to clamp them on will be
immediately before the connection to the speaker itself, on the speaker
side of the isolation transformer, but I wanted to get the opinions of
folks who have solved this problem in the past to see if there's any reason
the ferrites should come before the isolation transformers.

Thoughts?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S current draw relative to KAT3A settings

[Nicklas Johnson]

On Tue, 12 May 2020 at 13:41, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

Specifically:  100 watts indicated into dummy load via external power
> meter.
>
> for 40M the current was 15.3 amps {KAT3a bypassed}  and 15.75 amps with
> KAT3a active/AUTO and resolved a match
>
> for 20M the current was 18.5 amps {KAT3a bypassed} and 17.26 amps with
> KAT3a active/AUTO and resolved a match.
>

Running the identical test, on 40m, I get 14.4A bypassed, 13A matched.

On 20m, I get 14.0A bypassed, 17.5A matched, a bit bigger delta than what
you saw, but perhaps not totally unreasonable.

The reported C/L values the ATU picked for 40 and 20 for this test with the
dummy load are 0 nF / 0.5uH and 0.06nF / 0.25uH respectively.

With my antenna, repeating the same test, I get 14A on 40m and 19A on 20m
(both with the KAT3A matched), so around an amp more than with the matched
dummy load.

> As concluded from my tests, the radio will draw different amounts of
> current on different bands for the same given and measured power
> output.   Seems normal to me.
>

Thank you so much for taking the time to run these tests.  I appreciate
it.  I think the fact that we have a TX gain calibration per band also
implies that we'd see some differences in current draw for the different
bands too.

What I was really trying to determine is whether the results I'm seeing are
*typical*, and it sounds like the answer is "yes."

I guess what caught my eye in all of this is how much the configuration of
the matching network can affect the current draw of the amplifier.  Not
having a great deal of engineering experience with RF amplifier engineering
myself, I kind of expected that presenting the amplifier with a nice 50 ohm
load would have implied similar characteristics regardless of what sat on
the other side of the network, vs causing the amplifier to draw another amp
or two.  My expectation was that we'd see *loss* through the presence of
the matching network, but not so much an additional demand of current.

Kind of interesting, but not, it seems, abnormal or unexpected.  Thanks
again for confirming!

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S current draw relative to KAT3A settings

[Nicklas Johnson]

On Tue, 12 May 2020 at 12:34, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:

What do you see with: 1) a 50 Ohm load connected to the antenna port
> and the KAT3A bypassed,


See the "bypassed" column in the original chart.


> 2) a 50 Ohm load connected to the antenna
> port and the KAT3A removed (KANT3 board installed),


I purchased the K3S with the KAT3A installed, and as I don't have a KANT3
board handy to swap in, I am unable to tell you.


> 3) a 50 Ohm
> load connected to the antenna port and the KAT3A tuned for SWR =
> 1:1,


For 13W, on 40m, 6.71A; on 20m, 8.2A.  (The dummy load isn't a perfect 50
ohm match unfortunately; it's off by a few ohms and I measure 57 ohms with
a DC meter.)


> 4) your "antenna" connected to the antenna port and the KAT3A
> tuned for minimum SWR?
>

For 13W, on 40m 6.9A, on 20m 9.4A.  In both cases the ATU had no trouble
making a 1:1 match.

The actual measured SWR of the antenna system (ie, with an SWR meter) is
3.7:1 on 40m and 2.9:1 on 20m.  Not a great match obviously, but expected
for what it is.

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S current draw relative to KAT3A settings

[Nicklas Johnson]

On Tue, 12 May 2020 at 11:51, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:

>
> > So I guess the question is this: is it expected to see such a large
> > variance in power consumption for the same output power based on the
> > values of C and L for the KAT3A?
> Is the KAT3/KAT3A *tuned correctly*?
>

This came up because the rig is drawing a lot more current on 20m vs 40m,
when the KAT3A is tuned for the antenna (which is a better match on 20 than
on 40).  For the dummy load, no, the KAT3A won't be tuned correctly when I
manually choose values for C and L; I just used it as a way to better
characterize the nature of the behavior that I was seeing and to reduce the
number of variables.  However, as I mentioned, the behavior is similar when
running FT8 with the tuner correctly tuned for the antenna.  If memory
serves, the difference in current draw was something like 6 amps between 40
and 20, though I can go measure that again if an exact value is useful.

You are comparing apples and oranges here.  At 12W the 100 W amplifier
> is bypassed.  At 13W the 100W amplifier is engaged.  The differene you
> see is due to the 100W amplifier.
>

I'm not talking about the difference in measurements in the chart
vertically; I'm talking about the difference horzontally.  I did the
measurements twice deliberately, specifically because PA is
bypassed/engaged, because I wanted to see if there was any relationship
there as well.

   Nick

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[Elecraft] K3S current draw relative to KAT3A settings

[Nicklas Johnson]

I've had a few exchanges with support on this, but as Covid-19 is imposing
some new burdens on the shop, I thought I might ask the larger community
for input as well.

I've been troubleshooting seemingly anomalous power consumption when
transmitting. My K3S pulls way more current on 20m than on 40m for the same
input signal and output power.

After some experimentation, I found that the input current is related to
whether the KAT3A is engaged, and which values of C and L are selected.
The lowest power consumption comes from the highest value for C and the
lowest value for L, and the highest power consumption comes from the lowest
C and highest L.  Here's a chart of what I found going into a dummy load,
manually setting C and L values:


min C/max L max C/min L bypass not-inst
40m, 12w 3.55A 2.23A 3.4A 3.3A
20m, 12w 3.70A 1.99A 3.1A 3.0A





40m, 13w 11.5A 4.65A 7.3A 7.2A
20m, 13w 15A 5.63A 6.9A 6.8A
If that chart doesn't render well on the list, here's a screen shot of it:
https://imgur.com/GF4IUIy

(This was transmitting a 1500Hz tone, SSB at almost 100% modulation with
14v supplied, and is the value reported by the K3s, though my ammeter
reports a similar value.  I get similar results with FT8 going into an
actual antenna instead of a dummy load.)

So I guess the question is this: is it expected to see such a large
variance in power consumption for the same output power based on the values
of C and L for the KAT3A?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
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Re: [Elecraft] VERY noisy LCD Monitor. Any Suggestions?

[Nicklas Johnson]

My experience with some cheaper LCD monitors is that the backlight
brightness is controlled by a badly designed PWM circuit.  With my parents'
Samsung, the noise is even audible if you're sitting next to it.

The only solution I've found, if indeed this is what's giving you trouble,
is to turn the backlight brightness up to 100%.  Even at 99% the PWM kicks
in and makes a hell of a racket.

   Nick


On Sun, 26 May 2019 at 12:16, Jim KO5V  wrote:

> Good afternoon,
>
> I have a ~24" LCD monitor that I want to use for logging, to display my
> panadapter, etc. Unfortunately, it is very noisy on HF. When It goes to
> sleep, the noise goes away. This is even more irritating because I now have
> the K2/computer/logging, etc, all working together. I've searched a bit
> on-line, but so far, I have not found any real solutions (but a lot of "me
> too" answers, and one suggestion to ditch the radio and make use of the
> internet...).
>
> There are what look to be ferrite beads on each end of the signal cable
> from the computer to the monitor, and on the monitor end of the power
> supply's low-voltage line (I assume it's a switching supply). There are no
> beads on the supply's power cord.
>
> All the radio equipment and the computer are using the same AC circuit.
> The rig and amp are grounded to the station ground, but the computer and
> monitor are only grounded through the AC supply.
>
> I have four clip-on ferrite beads that I've tried on each end of the
> monitor's two lines, and they make no difference.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions? Maybe I've missed something dumb. I
> don't mind getting some big cores if necessary, but I would like to hear of
> someone's success before spending a lot of money trying to "shotgun" the
> solution, and I really don't want to get a new monitor - but if anyone has
> a suggestion of a noise-free one, please let me know.
>
> Thanks in advance. 73,
>
> Jim KO5V
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Re: [Elecraft] Will there be a K4

[Nicklas Johnson]

So basically a K3S :-D

The only thing I think it might be nice to see is a way for ALE (ie,
HFlink) to work/scan totally silently, which I guess would mean totally
diode-switched filters and a mode where the ATU could automatically be
bypassed during receive and enabled during transmit?  (the latter could
sort of be achieved today with the software sending the right commands of
course)

Cosmetically, the unit's display is starting to look & feel a little clunky
by 2019 standards, but this is such a minor thing.

But honestly the K3S has left me wanting for so little that it's somewhat
difficult for me to imagine altogether very many ways to improve it, though
I've only been operating with it about a year.

   Nick


On Fri, 3 May 2019 at 17:01, Robert G Strickland via Elecraft <
elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:

> Keep it modular.
> Keep the "basic unit" simple.
> Focus on performance, not bells and whistles.
> Keep the UI simple and direct, functional, not "cute."
> Remember that there's no "forever upward;" asymptotes do exist.
> Investigate how the price can be brought down [if at all] without
> sacrificing performance or company financial stability.
> Remember that while the K3'etc is a great radio, the company behind the
> radio is as great as the technical stuff. Nourish the company.
> Thanks for asking!
>
> ...robert
>
> > On 3/24/2019 5:14 PM, Eric Swartz WA6HHQ - Elecraft wrote:
> >> Inquiring minds want to know:
> >> What would you all like to see as a ???K4??? ?
> >>
> >> Eric
> >> elecraft.com
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
> --
> Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
> rc...@verizon.net.usa
> Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

I don't think that "collecting data" and "process of elimination" are
particularly ANTI-methodical either.  But the fact is that most people will
never encounter this kind of problem and don't spend their days practicing
how to troubleshoot it, so they seek advice from people who do have
experience.  Thus this email thread, which began with my thinking I'd
developed an audio fault in the rig and seeking advice, but successive
tests have pointed in other directions.

To answer Jim's earlier question, yes, it does appear that transmitting an
unmodulated AM carrier from the K3S into anything resembling an antenna
yields a buzz on the KX3 receiver (and vice-versa).  The buzz is NOT
audible when listening to the K3S's own TX monitor.

And to answer Frank's question, the PG transformer in our front yard for
the underground utilities is approximately 30 horizontal feet over and 6
vertical feet down from the station.  The distance to the utilities that
run through the back of our lot is approximately 60 feet.

I spent the morning reviewing (again) materials on grounding and bonding
over my morning coffee to see if there's something important I missed, and
I also found by repeating it that an earlier test I'd done had given me a
misleading/contradictory result-- transmitting into a dummy load
immediately adjacent the KX3 receiving it produces a nice, clean signal.  I
was misled before by the KX3 picking up a different buzz (probably off a
wall wart) in the shack when performing this test earlier.  (It also helped
in this case to put the KX3 into CW mode to detect the unmodulated AM
carrier.)

FWIW, this morning I also disconnected the bonding between the station's
ground rod and the house's utility power and also disconnected the DTV
antenna run into the house (which shares the same coax grounding/surge
protection bus outside, but of course could find another path to ground
over the coax shield via either one of the TV receivers).  Doing so
eliminated any *direct * connection with the utility power, as I'm still
running purely on battery power.  This had NO effect on the received buzz.

At this point I'm pretty sure this is an environmental issue and not a
problem with either rig, so it's probably not appropriate for me to
continue to pester the list about it.  Thank you again to everyone who
offered suggestions and advice.

But for posterity, and in case anyone comes along searching the list while
debugging a similar problem, here's a list of all the other things that I
tried to isolate the problem, none of which had any effect:

   - Complete disconnection of all other inputs and outputs on the K3S
   other than the antenna.
   - Turning off all nearby power supplies.
   - Setting the input to any other selection (front panel, rear panel,
   line in)
   - Setting the line input level to 0, verifying that front and rear panel
   gains were set to "low"
   - Running solely on battery power without the solar charge controller
   - TX EQ settings- cutting the low end completely
   - Taking the receiver outdoors, away from power supplies
   - Trying a different transmit antenna (ie, making sure I wasn't having
   problems with a damaged dipole having the house neutral wiring as one leg)
   - Temporarily disconnecting the station ground
   - Temporarily disconnecting the utility bonding from the station's
   ground rod
   - Reversing the direction: transmitting with the KX3 into a portable
   antenna and receiving with the K3S also produced a much more significant
   buzz

What DID yield some useful data:

   - Transmitting into a dummy load *while* turning off all nearby power
   supplies and lights with the KX3 immediately adjacent the dummy load: nice,
   pristine signal
   - Checking the TX monitor on the K3S: only white noise with the line
   input and the monitor output turned to maximum while transmitting.

What I have yet to do, and will require some more time and effort to
organize and implement:

   - Going portable or to another QTH to test again
   - Getting a signal report from a distant station to see if this is a
   local reception problem, or something actually getting into the transmitted
   signal.


   Nick


On Sat, 27 Apr 2019 at 01:19, Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 4/26/2019 10:44 PM, donov...@starpower.net wrote:
> > Y our emails leave the impression that your approach
> > isn't very methodical.
>
> Yes, but that lack of methodical troubleshooting is the result of most
> hams being weak on the fundamentals of fields and passive IM, instead
> seeing problems in the light of RFI and mythical concepts like "ground
> loops."
>
> The two causes I've come around to smelling in this problem are passive
> IM (which Frank reminded me of) and power-related fields. And Frank's
> advice is right on.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

Before I forget, thank you to everyone who has responded thusfar with ideas
and suggestions.  This one is a real head-scratcher, and I appreciate
everyone bouncing ideas around with me.

If the problem is in fact originating with power line neutral distortion,
what, if anything could I actually do about it, beyond what I've already
done in running on battery power?  I can't really move my 'shack' in this
case.

I did find the "squeaky wheel" at least.  It was the end of one of the
aluminum straps of an antenna mast chimney mount brushing against a copper
ground wire in the wind.  A pair of tin snips solved that problem.  This
bit was kind of fascinating-- if I held a copper wire against the aluminum
strap, and position the antenna of the KX3 nearby, I could receive some
broadcast AM station on the 51.123 MHz carrier I was transmitting from
inside the house (it's pretty close to a multiple of 810kHz, so if I had to
guess, it was likely KGO I was getting).

I also found the noise gets a hell of a lot louder near the back gutter of
the house (which runs parallel to the power lines that run through the back
yard), though this could just be because the antenna of my KX3 was coupling
to it.

Yet to be determined is whether the noise is a local thing only affecting
reception (e.g., some kind of passive intermod), or if in fact it becomes
part of the signal I'm sending up to the ionosphere.  To really figure that
one out, I probably will need to make an actual distant AM contact and ask
someone to tell me how it sounds... this may be no small feat with the way
the sun is behaving lately, but I'll keep trying.

   Nick

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 19:18, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> I think Jim's concern, expressed earlier, about power line neutral
> distortion components is valid. And it may be originating in "the big green
> transformer" in the yard.
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 26, 2019, at 8:53 PM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
> >
> > Sorry for the additional email, but this is particularly interesting: it
> > occurred to me that I'd never tried the reverse setup, so I put the KX3
> in
> > transmit mode and 0.1W on AM in another room, and set the K3S on receive.
> > And sure enough, the K3S immediately started picking up S40 of buzzing
> > noise.  However if I tune the K3S to an AM broadcast station or WWV, no
> > buzz. So either both the K3S and KX3 are being affected on transmit in
> the
> > same way (which seems implausible but not impossible), or possibly
> > something else is going on at my QTH.
> >
> > On the P3, I definitely see the noise when the KX3 is transmitting from
> the
> > other room.
> >
> > Now I wish I had a scope so I could see what the AM carrier generated by
> > the KX3 and K3S looks like so I could tell if this is something that's
> > happening inside the transmitter, or something that is happening because
> of
> > some outside influence mixing powerline noise with the AM carrier.  The
> > important thing to me is that the carrier I'm putting out there is
> clean...
> > if there's some local mixing that happens that means I can't listen to my
> > own transmission without a buzz, I can live with that.
> >
> > One kind of curious thing is that there's also a superimposed "squeaky
> > wheel" sound at random intervals detectable when the KX3 is transmitting
> an
> > AM carrier, and not otherwise, and also not when listening to WWV or AM
> > broadcast, which vaguely seems to correlate with how windy it is at any
> > given moment.  Could all of this be a "rusty bolt" effect from something
> in
> > the vicinity?
> >
> >   Nick
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 18:11, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
> >>
> >> A few more data points:
> >>
> >> Changing TX EQ, including cutting the first 4 bands all the way down to
> >> -16 had no effect on the received signal.
> >>
> >> Plugging in some headphones, turning the TX Monitor up all the way, I
> >> don't detect the hum in the TX monitor signal either in TX test mode,
> >> transmitting into a dummy load, or even transmitting into the antenna
> with
> >> very low power.  If I turn up the Line In level, I just hear expected
> white
> >> noise on the TX monitor.  So at least as far along the path as the TX
> >> monitor, there's no hum or buzz introduced.
> >>
> >> Switching the receiver (a KX3) to USB mode and using one leg of a
> >> buddistick as an antenna so I can walk around, the noise received around
> >> the house and outside is around S4 when transmitting about 100mW into
> the
> >> an

Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

Sorry for the additional email, but this is particularly interesting: it
occurred to me that I'd never tried the reverse setup, so I put the KX3 in
transmit mode and 0.1W on AM in another room, and set the K3S on receive.
And sure enough, the K3S immediately started picking up S40 of buzzing
noise.  However if I tune the K3S to an AM broadcast station or WWV, no
buzz. So either both the K3S and KX3 are being affected on transmit in the
same way (which seems implausible but not impossible), or possibly
something else is going on at my QTH.

On the P3, I definitely see the noise when the KX3 is transmitting from the
other room.

Now I wish I had a scope so I could see what the AM carrier generated by
the KX3 and K3S looks like so I could tell if this is something that's
happening inside the transmitter, or something that is happening because of
some outside influence mixing powerline noise with the AM carrier.  The
important thing to me is that the carrier I'm putting out there is clean...
if there's some local mixing that happens that means I can't listen to my
own transmission without a buzz, I can live with that.

One kind of curious thing is that there's also a superimposed "squeaky
wheel" sound at random intervals detectable when the KX3 is transmitting an
AM carrier, and not otherwise, and also not when listening to WWV or AM
broadcast, which vaguely seems to correlate with how windy it is at any
given moment.  Could all of this be a "rusty bolt" effect from something in
the vicinity?

   Nick



On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 18:11, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:

> A few more data points:
>
> Changing TX EQ, including cutting the first 4 bands all the way down to
> -16 had no effect on the received signal.
>
> Plugging in some headphones, turning the TX Monitor up all the way, I
> don't detect the hum in the TX monitor signal either in TX test mode,
> transmitting into a dummy load, or even transmitting into the antenna with
> very low power.  If I turn up the Line In level, I just hear expected white
> noise on the TX monitor.  So at least as far along the path as the TX
> monitor, there's no hum or buzz introduced.
>
> Switching the receiver (a KX3) to USB mode and using one leg of a
> buddistick as an antenna so I can walk around, the noise received around
> the house and outside is around S4 when transmitting about 100mW into the
> antenna, though it varies some as I walk around.
>
> I do have a set of power lines running through my back yard, and where I
> live in San Mateo, you're always near somebody's wiring for something,
> unfortunately... my neighbor's south wall is possibly as far as 8 feet away
> from my north wall, etc.
>
> It looks like two phases running along the top, then a transformer to two
> phases and a neutral along the bottom, to which people's houses are
> connected.
>
> We also have underground utilities on our street, including a big green
> transformer that sits in the corner of our front lawn.
>
> I think the next test will be to take the K3S and the KX3 some distance
> away from all of these things and see if the hum goes away, and if it does,
> then figure out what thing the K3S needs to get away from in particular.
> If it's the powerlines in my back yard or the transformer in my front yard,
> then that'll be a difficult problem.
>
>Nick
>
>
>
> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 17:28, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
> wrote:
>
>> Yes but the EQ is in the digital path.  The EQ should be done there,
>> preferably after the MIC input.   The AM BW does not attenuate the end like
>> the SSB filter.
>>
>> I suggest -16 dB on the first 3 bands.
>>
>> Bob, K4TAX
>>
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> > On Apr 26, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
>> >
>> > Flat, except I turned the first one down a few notches, which doesn't
>> > really do much in my case because both the microphone and mixer that I
>> use
>> > (when they're actually connected) roll off below 150 and 80 Hz
>> > respectively.  It had previously been suggested to me that rolling off
>> low
>> > frequency cruft is a good idea for AM and SSB.
>> >
>> >   Nick
>> >
>> >> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 15:57, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
>> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> I recall commenting earlier.  What TX EQ values are being used for AM.
>> ?
>> >>
>> >> Bob, K4TAX
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> Sent from my iPhone
>> >>
>> >>> On Apr 26, 2019, at 5:48 PM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>> My desk in this case sits adjacent a wall, and there's only a shower
>> on
>> >> the
>> &g

Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

A few more data points:

Changing TX EQ, including cutting the first 4 bands all the way down to -16
had no effect on the received signal.

Plugging in some headphones, turning the TX Monitor up all the way, I don't
detect the hum in the TX monitor signal either in TX test mode,
transmitting into a dummy load, or even transmitting into the antenna with
very low power.  If I turn up the Line In level, I just hear expected white
noise on the TX monitor.  So at least as far along the path as the TX
monitor, there's no hum or buzz introduced.

Switching the receiver (a KX3) to USB mode and using one leg of a
buddistick as an antenna so I can walk around, the noise received around
the house and outside is around S4 when transmitting about 100mW into the
antenna, though it varies some as I walk around.

I do have a set of power lines running through my back yard, and where I
live in San Mateo, you're always near somebody's wiring for something,
unfortunately... my neighbor's south wall is possibly as far as 8 feet away
from my north wall, etc.

It looks like two phases running along the top, then a transformer to two
phases and a neutral along the bottom, to which people's houses are
connected.

We also have underground utilities on our street, including a big green
transformer that sits in the corner of our front lawn.

I think the next test will be to take the K3S and the KX3 some distance
away from all of these things and see if the hum goes away, and if it does,
then figure out what thing the K3S needs to get away from in particular.
If it's the powerlines in my back yard or the transformer in my front yard,
then that'll be a difficult problem.

   Nick



On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 17:28, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> Yes but the EQ is in the digital path.  The EQ should be done there,
> preferably after the MIC input.   The AM BW does not attenuate the end like
> the SSB filter.
>
> I suggest -16 dB on the first 3 bands.
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 26, 2019, at 6:38 PM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
> >
> > Flat, except I turned the first one down a few notches, which doesn't
> > really do much in my case because both the microphone and mixer that I
> use
> > (when they're actually connected) roll off below 150 and 80 Hz
> > respectively.  It had previously been suggested to me that rolling off
> low
> > frequency cruft is a good idea for AM and SSB.
> >
> >   Nick
> >
> >> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 15:57, Bob McGraw K4TAX 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> I recall commenting earlier.  What TX EQ values are being used for AM. ?
> >>
> >> Bob, K4TAX
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Apr 26, 2019, at 5:48 PM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
> >>>
> >>> My desk in this case sits adjacent a wall, and there's only a shower on
> >> the
> >>> other side of that wall.  I did turn off everything in the vicinity of
> >> the
> >>> desk and all the lights in the room (I've in fact heard a very similar
> >> hum
> >>> from the switching power supply for my mixer, and my first thought was
> it
> >>> was this that was being picked up), but I didn't turn off the computer
> on
> >>> the other side of the room.  In this case it will be easier to move the
> >> rig
> >>> outdoors with a battery than it will be to turn that computer off for
> the
> >>> moment.  It would have to be an impressively/obnoxiously strong
> magnetic
> >>> field from that side of the room to influence the transformers inside
> the
> >>> rig 8 feet away, but it's worth trying and simple enough to rule it
> out.
> >>>
> >>>  Nick
> >>>
> >>>> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 14:51, Don Wilhelm 
> >> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> In addition to operating from a battery isolated from the solar
> system,
> >>>> I would recommend that you do a quick test - remove all cables from
> the
> >>>> K3S except the power cable and a coax to a dummy load.  Power down all
> >>>> power supplies in your station, including any desk lamps.
> >>>> Go into Transmit by tapping the XMIT button.
> >>>> Is the hum still present?  If not, then start connecting things to
> your
> >>>> K3S one at a time, doing the same test after each thing connected.
> >>>>
> >>>> Of course, if the hum is present with nothing connected, contact
> >>>> supp...@elecraft.com - but I cannot imagine a hum with harmonics of
> 60
> >>>> Hz being induced if you take away all the 60 Hz operated so

Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

Flat, except I turned the first one down a few notches, which doesn't
really do much in my case because both the microphone and mixer that I use
(when they're actually connected) roll off below 150 and 80 Hz
respectively.  It had previously been suggested to me that rolling off low
frequency cruft is a good idea for AM and SSB.

   Nick

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 15:57, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:

> I recall commenting earlier.  What TX EQ values are being used for AM. ?
>
> Bob, K4TAX
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 26, 2019, at 5:48 PM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
> >
> > My desk in this case sits adjacent a wall, and there's only a shower on
> the
> > other side of that wall.  I did turn off everything in the vicinity of
> the
> > desk and all the lights in the room (I've in fact heard a very similar
> hum
> > from the switching power supply for my mixer, and my first thought was it
> > was this that was being picked up), but I didn't turn off the computer on
> > the other side of the room.  In this case it will be easier to move the
> rig
> > outdoors with a battery than it will be to turn that computer off for the
> > moment.  It would have to be an impressively/obnoxiously strong magnetic
> > field from that side of the room to influence the transformers inside the
> > rig 8 feet away, but it's worth trying and simple enough to rule it out.
> >
> >   Nick
> >
> >> On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 14:51, Don Wilhelm 
> wrote:
> >>
> >> In addition to operating from a battery isolated from the solar system,
> >> I would recommend that you do a quick test - remove all cables from the
> >> K3S except the power cable and a coax to a dummy load.  Power down all
> >> power supplies in your station, including any desk lamps.
> >> Go into Transmit by tapping the XMIT button.
> >> Is the hum still present?  If not, then start connecting things to your
> >> K3S one at a time, doing the same test after each thing connected.
> >>
> >> Of course, if the hum is present with nothing connected, contact
> >> supp...@elecraft.com - but I cannot imagine a hum with harmonics of 60
> >> Hz being induced if you take away all the 60 Hz operated sources in the
> >> area.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >> --
> > *N6OL*
> > Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it
> > real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> > worth supporting.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> >
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

My desk in this case sits adjacent a wall, and there's only a shower on the
other side of that wall.  I did turn off everything in the vicinity of the
desk and all the lights in the room (I've in fact heard a very similar hum
from the switching power supply for my mixer, and my first thought was it
was this that was being picked up), but I didn't turn off the computer on
the other side of the room.  In this case it will be easier to move the rig
outdoors with a battery than it will be to turn that computer off for the
moment.  It would have to be an impressively/obnoxiously strong magnetic
field from that side of the room to influence the transformers inside the
rig 8 feet away, but it's worth trying and simple enough to rule it out.

   Nick

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 14:51, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> In addition to operating from a battery isolated from the solar system,
> I would recommend that you do a quick test - remove all cables from the
> K3S except the power cable and a coax to a dummy load.  Power down all
> power supplies in your station, including any desk lamps.
> Go into Transmit by tapping the XMIT button.
> Is the hum still present?  If not, then start connecting things to your
> K3S one at a time, doing the same test after each thing connected.
>
> Of course, if the hum is present with nothing connected, contact
> supp...@elecraft.com - but I cannot imagine a hum with harmonics of 60
> Hz being induced if you take away all the 60 Hz operated sources in the
> area.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> --
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

I did in fact wonder the same thing myself-- whether the solar controller
could be injecting some noise or just making some noise, so when I did the
battery test, I disconnected the battery from the controller and ran
directly from the battery to the rig.

I couldn't tell you a dB level of the buzz without having some more
accurate equipment to measure it, but it's very noticeable relative to my
voice when testing.  It was enough to make me think I had either RF
feedback or a ground loop giving me grief.

There could be something to be learned from the predominant frequencies
present in the buzz... they're more or less 120Hz apart, but they start at
a weird place-- 350 isn't a multiple of 60 or 120, but that particular spur
and the 470 and 830 Hz spurs are all pretty exact, though of course it's
not impossible that there's some FFT error in determining those frequencies
and they're actually 360, 480, and 840.

Curious, though, is that running on a battery, there's nothing to inject a
60Hz or 120Hz noise directly, especially not once I disconnected the rig
ground from the ground rod outside.  Which makes me wonder if the buzz is
just something in the house that's mixing with the carrier and
re-radiating.  For my next trick, this weekend I think I'll take everything
outside on a picnic table, away from house wiring, etc., and see if that
changes anything, or I might start with just the receiver outdoors and away
from house wiring, and then move on to both if needed.

   Nick

On Fri, 26 Apr 2019 at 14:37, K8TE  wrote:

> The word that struck my attention is "solar" and the possibility of that
> controller causing noise.  When you were connected to just the battery and
> dummy load, was the battery disconnected from the solar system?  And, at
> what level was the buzz relative to a full power carrier?
>
> Every transmitter has some noise on its signal.  Specifications and FCC
> rules in some cases call for a specific ratio.  I can't imagine a factory
> reset solving a problem like this.  Be certain you have saved your
> configuration first.  Solving issues like this is not magic, but sometimes
> a
> mystery.
>
> 73, Bill, K8TE
>
-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

This morning just for yuks, I also temporarily disconnected the ground from
the rig entirely while also connecting only to a dummy load, so there could
be no path to ground at all, let alone multiple paths.  No change.

I guess the next things I'll probably try are a full factory reset, and
then perhaps popping it open to make sure nothing has come unseated.  But
first I'll drop a line to Elecraft support too.  I've seen a number of
people post about similar problems that either magically resolved
themselves or ended up being a fault on the audio board.

   Nick


On Thu, 25 Apr 2019 at 23:27, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:

> Again, the problem persists with all inputs completely disconnected and
> the mic gain set at 0. And running solely on a battery into a dummy load.
>
>Nick
>
> On Thu, Apr 25, 2019, 10:10 PM Jim Brown 
> wrote:
>
>> On 4/25/2019 8:15 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
>> > Physically touching the case or grabbing the barrel of the front panel
>> mic
>> > connector actually does cause the buzz to get just a little softer.
>>
>> I suspect either a bonding problem or a problem with the wiring of the
>> mic.
>>
>> > I generally use solar/battery power, though my ground is bonded to my
>> > utility ground.
>>
>> I suggest that you carefully study either N0AX's recent ARRL book on
>> grounding and bonding, or the slides for talks I've given at Visalia and
>> Pacifion.
>>
>> 73, Jim K9YC
>>
>> __
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>

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worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

Again, the problem persists with all inputs completely disconnected and the
mic gain set at 0. And running solely on a battery into a dummy load.

   Nick

On Thu, Apr 25, 2019, 10:10 PM Jim Brown  wrote:

> On 4/25/2019 8:15 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > Physically touching the case or grabbing the barrel of the front panel
> mic
> > connector actually does cause the buzz to get just a little softer.
>
> I suspect either a bonding problem or a problem with the wiring of the mic.
>
> > I generally use solar/battery power, though my ground is bonded to my
> > utility ground.
>
> I suggest that you carefully study either N0AX's recent ARRL book on
> grounding and bonding, or the slides for talks I've given at Visalia and
> Pacifion.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

That was my second thought, but then I disconnected everything, including
the microphone, and it made no difference.

   Nick

On Thu, Apr 25, 2019, 8:20 PM Grant Youngman  wrote:

> Microphone?  Or anything in between the mic and the radio, if there is
> anything?
>
> Grant NQ5T
> K3 #2091 KX3 #8342
>
> >
> >
> > Any other ideas?  I'm running out of them.
> >
> >   Nick
> >
> > --
> > *N6OL*
> > Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it
> > real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> > worth supporting.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >
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> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
>
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[Elecraft] K3S Audio buzz on transmit, especially AM

[Nicklas Johnson]

I'm trying to track down a pretty obnoxious audio problem on AM, and to a
much lesser extent on SSB.

On transmit I get an audio buzz with the highest spikes on 350, 470, and
830 Hz.

At first I thought I had a ground loop hum, so I disconnected everything
from the K3s except the antenna and switched the power over to battery
only.  It made no difference.

Other things that don't make any difference: lowering the mic/line input
level to 0, changing the mic input among front panel, rear panel, line-in,
changing frequency, changing output power all the way down to 0.1w, turning
off all the lights and shutting off any other nearby equipment in the room,
running into a dummy load with the receiver nearby.

Physically touching the case or grabbing the barrel of the front panel mic
connector actually does cause the buzz to get just a little softer.

I generally use solar/battery power, though my ground is bonded to my
utility ground.

Any other ideas?  I'm running out of them.

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - Splitting receive audio between PC and external speaker?

[Nicklas Johnson]

For doing this, what I do is go into the control panel for the audio input
device in Windows and check "Listen to this device", and then set the
output for listening to the PC's speakers.  Then if you want to hear your
transmitted signal, you can also turn on the MON function of the KX3.

They hid this control panel pretty well in later versions of Windows 10,
but you can access it quickly by running mmsys.cpl .

   Nick

On Fri, 14 Dec 2018 at 16:25, Mike Parkes  wrote:

> I am interested in determining the best way to split out the KX3's receive
> audio for digital modes to an external speaker, so that if I want, I can
> listen to the band while running digital sound card modes. (Maybe I am just
> too old school, but my older rigs (like the IC-751a) could do this easily
> because they had a separate digital output for rtty and other fsk modes. So
> I was able to monitor the band while also decoding digital modes.) I
> thought I could use a splitter from the KX3 phones jack, and send one side
> to the PC and the other to a speaker (with its own vol control). I have no
> idea how that will impact the signal going to the PC though, at the least
> it will be less level to the PC. Or perhaps one of the USB sound card
> interfaces can do this, as I think some of them have their own audio out?
> Ideally I would also like to be able to monitor the transmitted audio
> signal too if possible (whatever the signal is that is leaving the PC and
> going to the KX3. If anyone has any advice on this I am all ears.
> Thanks!
> Mike AB7RU
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S USB soundcard mic always monitoring TX audio

[Nicklas Johnson]

Found the answer after doing a little more digging.  This is a function of
the CONFIG:LIN OUT:2 (or REV) setting, which was defaulted to 30 on my
K3S.  Setting this to 0 eliminated the Line Out monitoring of Line In.
This is discussed in the KE7X K3S book at the bottom of page 210.

The explanation in the book is that some contests require submission of the
audio of the complete exchange, so having this setting something other than
0 loops the audio back through Line IN so your computer's digital recording
software will capture it when you record from Line In.

   Nick


On Wed, 10 Oct 2018 at 22:29, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:

> While spending some quality time with the K3s tonight, I noticed that if I
> switch on the "listen to" feature in Windows to listen to the USB codec
> microphone audio through my computer speakers, I always hear the audio when
> transmitting; ie, it behaves as though the audio being sent out the USB
> Codec speakers is being monitored by the USB Codec microphone.
>
> This was the case with the power reduced to 0, or with the unit in TX Test
> mode, so I don't think it's RF bleeding through.
>
> I also checked the MON setting and made sure it was on 0.  It had been on
> a low setting when I was listening to transmit audio on the speaker plugged
> into the K3S earlier.
>
> What else should I check, or is this behavior expected?
>
>Nick
>
> --
> *N6OL*
> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> worth supporting.
>


-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
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Re: [Elecraft] Winlink Express + K3S [SOLVED]

[Nicklas Johnson]

Got a great tip from Elecraft support on this one, which I'll relate here
for the next person who is searching for K3/K3S "T>R Latency measurement
timeout" on Google or the list when operating with Winlink.

The answer is to assign CONFIG:SYNC DT to a PF button (I used PF1) and then
enable it when in DATA mode.  This cuts the TX/RX latency *substantially*
and entirely eliminates the 60ms of artifacts I was seeing during switching
(the slow ramp and the 40ms drop-out).  Presumably those artifacts were the
result of switching filters.

T>R latency on my laptop now varies anywhere from 60-130ms, and I'm sure
some of that is just variance in processing in Winlink itself.  The
important thing is that the measure no longer times out, and the latency is
in the ballpark where it needs to be for the mode to work well.

The moral of the story is that if you're using a DATA mode that relies on
quick switching from transmit to receive, assign Sync DT to a button and
engage it when working with that mode.

Kudos to Gary at Elecraft!

   Nick

On Thu, 11 Oct 2018 at 12:08, Brian Hunt  wrote:

> When calling to connect with winmor you will always get the timeout
> message until the called station responds.  Once it connects the error
> message should go away.  It drove me nuts for a while. :-) FWIW, I use
> the CAT command option for PTT so I don't have to remember to set the
> PTT-KEY menu.  Seems to work fine.  Note:  K3 and external USB sound
> card used here with Win10 desktop PC.  HTH
>
> 73,
> Brian, K0DTJ
>
> On 10/10/2018 22:42, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> > Somewhat related to my other post, but sufficiently different that I
> > figured it should be its own thread: I consistently get the "Timeout in
> T>R
> > Latency Measurement" message from Winlink Express using the built-in
> > software Winmor TNC.
> >
> > After some poking around and trying different things, I set up the K3S to
> > do PTT on RTS, made sure the TX delay was as short as possible,
> configured
> > Winlink to use RTS for PTT, and as far as I can tell, the switching is
> very
> > fast... but Winlink is still not happy about it.  I tried VOX as well,
> but
> > it seemed like latency should be less with RTS for PTT.
> >
> > I used to get the Timeout error on my KX3 on the first transmit, but
> > subsequent transmissions always worked fine.
> >
> > Has anyone had more success with Winlink with the K3s and with avoiding
> > this Timeout message?
> >
> > Nick
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Winlink Express + K3S

[Nicklas Johnson]

FWIW, I did some more poking around.  Increasing the RF gain to present
Winlink with a louder signal helps to alleviate this problem.  Looking at
the meter in Winlink, when it switches from TX to RX, there's some ramp
time before it reflects the full amplitude of the incoming signal.

Curious about that, I recorded some audio using Audacity to see what the
recovery after the actual RX switch looks like: https://imgur.com/IPTabvm

There's about 10ms of ramp up, followed by about 10ms of signal, then a
40ms audio dropout, then the signal resumes and stays steady.  This same
pattern appeared for every TX/RX exchange, including the same 40ms dropout
in the same place.  Not a big deal with many modes, but it could be a
bigger problem with Winlink or other modes which rely on quick TX/RX
switching; the total latency between the end of the transmit and the end of
the dropout is 170ms; add to that sound driver latency and buffering
latency, and the total latency could be well over 200ms... 140ms would
certainly be more desirable if it could be achieved.  (See
https://imgur.com/a/C2McMby for the full switch cycle.)

I also tested this with an external sound card to determine whether these
artifacts are coming from the receiver or the internal sound card.  The
same artifacts are present from the external sound card connected to the
rig's line out as when using the internal sound card, which I suspect
indicates they're coming from the receiver, not the sound card.

This is happening in DATA-A mode with NR, NB and NTCH off and with AGC
off.  Using Windows 10 with all "enhancements" disabled on both cards.

What else should I check or try?  Can anyone else verify this same pattern?

   Nick


On Wed, 10 Oct 2018 at 22:42, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:

> Somewhat related to my other post, but sufficiently different that I
> figured it should be its own thread: I consistently get the "Timeout in T>R
> Latency Measurement" message from Winlink Express using the built-in
> software Winmor TNC.
>
> After some poking around and trying different things, I set up the K3S to
> do PTT on RTS, made sure the TX delay was as short as possible, configured
> Winlink to use RTS for PTT, and as far as I can tell, the switching is very
> fast... but Winlink is still not happy about it.  I tried VOX as well, but
> it seemed like latency should be less with RTS for PTT.
>
> I used to get the Timeout error on my KX3 on the first transmit, but
> subsequent transmissions always worked fine.
>
> Has anyone had more success with Winlink with the K3s and with avoiding
> this Timeout message?
>
>Nick
>
> --
> *N6OL*
> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> worth supporting.
>


-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
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[Elecraft] Winlink Express + K3S

[Nicklas Johnson]

Somewhat related to my other post, but sufficiently different that I
figured it should be its own thread: I consistently get the "Timeout in T>R
Latency Measurement" message from Winlink Express using the built-in
software Winmor TNC.

After some poking around and trying different things, I set up the K3S to
do PTT on RTS, made sure the TX delay was as short as possible, configured
Winlink to use RTS for PTT, and as far as I can tell, the switching is very
fast... but Winlink is still not happy about it.  I tried VOX as well, but
it seemed like latency should be less with RTS for PTT.

I used to get the Timeout error on my KX3 on the first transmit, but
subsequent transmissions always worked fine.

Has anyone had more success with Winlink with the K3s and with avoiding
this Timeout message?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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[Elecraft] K3S USB soundcard mic always monitoring TX audio

[Nicklas Johnson]

While spending some quality time with the K3s tonight, I noticed that if I
switch on the "listen to" feature in Windows to listen to the USB codec
microphone audio through my computer speakers, I always hear the audio when
transmitting; ie, it behaves as though the audio being sent out the USB
Codec speakers is being monitored by the USB Codec microphone.

This was the case with the power reduced to 0, or with the unit in TX Test
mode, so I don't think it's RF bleeding through.

I also checked the MON setting and made sure it was on 0.  It had been on a
low setting when I was listening to transmit audio on the speaker plugged
into the K3S earlier.

What else should I check, or is this behavior expected?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] Vocal Cord Bias + SSB PEP

[Nicklas Johnson]

Perfect, I was just not using the right terms in my search.  This explains
it very well, and even includes some discussion of how this can cause
amplification to start clipping on one side of the waveform before the
other.

Thank you!

   Nick

On 14 September 2018 at 13:38, Walter Underwood 
wrote:

> I searched for “asymmetrical speech waveforms” and found this.
>
> "The other element involved in this is that many acoustic sources
> inherently have a 'positive air pressure bias' because of the way the sound
> is generated. To talk or sing, we have to breathe out, and to play a
> trumpet, we have to blow air through the tubing. So, in these examples,
> there is inherently more energy available for the compression side of the
> sound wave than there is for the rarefaction side, and that can also
> contribute to an asymmetrical waveform."
>
> https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-why-do-
> waveforms-sometimes-look-lop-sided
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
> On Sep 14, 2018, at 1:24 PM, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:
>
> An audio engineering friend noticed in some voiceover recordings something
> that I've also noticed in my own waveforms, that a lot of the time, human
> vocal cords seem to produce a biased waveform (seemingly a positive bias
> most of the time).
>
> I vaguely remember reading either here on this list, or maybe in QST,
> something about this as it relates to setting microphone gain (and bias) so
> that the resulting modulated signal is making more efficient (I'm probably
> not remembering the right word) use of the available amplitude (ie, not
> hitting the peak early on the positive side, but falling well below it on
> the negative side).
> My Google-foo isn't working out for me today though; does anyone remember
> an article or posting on this topic and/or have a link to it?  I haven't
> been able to track it down again.
>
>   Nick
> --
> *N6OL*
> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
>
>
>


-- 
*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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[Elecraft] Vocal Cord Bias + SSB PEP

[Nicklas Johnson]

An audio engineering friend noticed in some voiceover recordings something
that I've also noticed in my own waveforms, that a lot of the time, human
vocal cords seem to produce a biased waveform (seemingly a positive bias
most of the time).

I vaguely remember reading either here on this list, or maybe in QST,
something about this as it relates to setting microphone gain (and bias) so
that the resulting modulated signal is making more efficient (I'm probably
not remembering the right word) use of the available amplitude (ie, not
hitting the peak early on the positive side, but falling well below it on
the negative side).
My Google-foo isn't working out for me today though; does anyone remember
an article or posting on this topic and/or have a link to it?  I haven't
been able to track it down again.

   Nick


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S 2m FM squelch problem

[Nicklas Johnson]

Yup, I did a little more digging and figured it out.  What I wanted was SQ
MAIN to be =SUB POT to control it on the panel using the SUB knob, versus
setting the squelch via the menu.

All is well.

   Nick

On 6 September 2018 at 22:06, Nicklas Johnson  wrote:

> This is probably a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway...
>
> Got my K3S tonight, and starting to put it through its paces.  The 2m
> module was factory installed.
>
> The problem I have is that the RF/SQL control is still behaving like an RF
> control and not a squelch (ie, I always hear background static).  I've
> verified that I'm in FM mode, SQ Main is set to 00 and SQ=FM.  I'm
> listening with the built-in speaker.  The transverter does seem to be
> working; I can hear the repeater, and it can hear me.
>
> I'm sure I'm missing something really obvious, but I haven't been able to
> figure out what it is.  Any suggestions?
>
>Nick
>
> --
> *N6OL*
> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> worth supporting.
>



-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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[Elecraft] K3S 2m FM squelch problem

[Nicklas Johnson]

This is probably a dumb question but I'll ask it anyway...

Got my K3S tonight, and starting to put it through its paces.  The 2m
module was factory installed.

The problem I have is that the RF/SQL control is still behaving like an RF
control and not a squelch (ie, I always hear background static).  I've
verified that I'm in FM mode, SQ Main is set to 00 and SQ=FM.  I'm
listening with the built-in speaker.  The transverter does seem to be
working; I can hear the repeater, and it can hear me.

I'm sure I'm missing something really obvious, but I haven't been able to
figure out what it is.  Any suggestions?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3

[Nicklas Johnson]

Second that.  I have one external power supply from a well-known ham-gear
manufacturer of somewhat questionable repute which throws off S9 racket all
over everything, or did until I gave the output cord about 10 turns through
a hefty ferrite.

I'd forgotten about the RX Shift feature being per-band somehow... it could
be my imagination but it seems to take down the omnipresent 30Hz impulse
noise a few dB at my QTH in San Mateo.  (I've of course gone through
turning off power to the house and driving around in portable operation...
I think the problem is generally being anywhere near PG transmission
lines, which is something that's hard to avoid anywhere in the SF
peninsula.  The noise blanker also does a pretty decent job of suppressing
it even further.)

   Nick

On 3 June 2018 at 10:45, Mel Farrer via Elecraft 
wrote:

> Wayne,
> You missed one.  Depending on operation whether it is internal battery or
> external supply.  I have had problems with a lot of external source, so
> always put a dummy load on the antenna a see if the noise is conducted or
> radiated.  Just one more reason to go solar/battery in the field.  Yu.
> Mel, K6KBE with KX3 is all applications
>
>   From: Wayne Burdick 
>  To: Mike Parkes 
> Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>  Sent: Sunday, June 3, 2018 10:15 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Intermod filter for the KX3
>
> Mike,
>
> What you’re describing sounds like noise that is in-band and would be
> debilitating for any radio. Not intermod. But just to be sure, set MENU:RX
> SHFT to 8.0 and turn off the noise blanker. This is the most resilient
> setup if you have monster signals actually causing IMD.
>
> Also try turning off the preamp.
>
> If the above steps don’t help, you could simply have a case of very high
> noise floor. Here are a few more things you can try:
>
> 1. Use very narrow filter bandwidths. In CW mode, use the APF feature
> (audio peaking filter).
>
> 2. Move the antenna farther from identified noise sources.
>
> 3. Try a magnetic loop. These are very narrow banded, and may have
> directional characteristics you can make use of.
>
> If all else fails, try taking your KX3 portable as an experiment. A
> location far from massive noise sources can be a breath of fresh air, both
> atmospherically and ion-ically. It’s not a long-term solution unless, like
> me, you discover that field operation is a blast. But it’ll give you some
> perspective about your noise at home.
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
>
>
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
>
> > On Jun 3, 2018, at 9:49 AM, Mike Parkes  wrote:
> >
> > Hey group
> > I have an issue here and am wondering if a good band pass filter would
> > help? I pick up so much sqawks and buzzing weird interference, grating
> > machine sounds, on my KX3 on all HF bands, it is horrible in my setting
> > (ground floor apartment in the city). I have the same issues on 2 meter
> > handhelds, noise all over the band, trips the squelch making it nigh
> > impossible to scan without the radio stopping on some ghost signal that
> is
> > only intermod. Same story with the KX3 2 mtr module though I can turn the
> > squelch up enough to keep the radio scanning without stopping on noise
> for
> > the most part. Is there any hope for HF? Would some sort of HF band pass
> > filter help my KX3? Or is the filtering in the KX3 already good enough? I
> > can't make it go away with the built in KX3 noise filters. There is this
> > one company across the street from me, some internet megalith place with
> > sat dishes on the roof and I wonder if some of the noise is coming from
> > that establishment. Anyway... thanks for any ideas... head for a park, a
> > mountain peak... I know... :)
> >
> > 73's Mike AB7RU DN17gp
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
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*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. 

Re: [Elecraft] Suggestions for Introducing a 10-year-old to Amateur Radio and Electronics

[Nicklas Johnson]

I second this.  My first foray into electronics in general and radio in
particular came from the old Radio Shack / Science Fair "160 in one" and
"200 in one" project kits.  Prepare for a spaghetti-wire mess of jumpers
between spring terminals, but it was a really great means for me to begin
to understand, and it was a great way for someone of that age (I think I
started toying with them around the age of 9) to experiment.

My favorite kit build, of course, was the AM Radio transmitter, which led
to a lot of experimentation with different antennas to see how far around
our neighborhood I could pick up my signal, trying to find "improvements"
to the circuit, means of using speaker and line-level inputs instead of the
microphone input so I could play music more easily, etc. etc.  It turned
out that, for reasons I didn't understand at the time, a 6-foot-long sheet
of aluminum foil makes a pretty good broadcast band antenna for a toy kit,
much better than just a wire :-)

Eventually this led to a postal mail conversation with my uncle, who is a
Ham, who in turn sent me a copy of "Tune in the World with Ham Radio" to
help answer some questions I had about antennas.  And then, upon doing the
calculations, I was dismayed to learn that a proper vertical antenna for
the frequency I was trying to use would need to be over 150 feet high, well
beyond the allowed length for a Part 15 transmitter.  Someone should have
told me about loading coils... I bet I could have gotten a little more
range out of that aluminum foil!

   Nick


On 15 October 2017 at 09:20, GRANT YOUNGMAN  wrote:

> That’s a good question.  Most kids’ grandpas, even it they’re hams, don’t
> have a workbench filled with boat anchors torn down in some state of repair
> or restoration, or aren’t into home brew of much more than getting a relay
> to work, wiring a connector, or something similar.  They may not even know
> another ham that does any of that aside from screwing ‘mysterious' black
> box radios together with preassembled cables, which is too bad in itself,
> but not the same topic.
>
> Maybe something like this thing https://www.amazon.com/Elenco-
> Electronic-Playground-Learning-Center/dp/B0035XSZDI/
> ref=pd_sim_14_1?_encoding=UTF8_rd_i=B0035XSZDI_rd_
> r=NGPKH7KZXG9W97CMB6TD_rd_w=VORMc_rd_wg=Gq7yR=1&
> refRID=NGPKH7KZXG9W97CMB6TD  Elenco-Electronic-Playground-Learning-Center/dp/B0035XSZDI/
> ref=pd_sim_14_1?_encoding=UTF8_rd_i=B0035XSZDI_rd_
> r=NGPKH7KZXG9W97CMB6TD_rd_w=VORMc_rd_wg=Gq7yR=1&
> refRID=NGPKH7KZXG9W97CMB6TD>
>
> Another option is a line of products called Snap Circuits (google it),
> which are pretty slick.  My 9 year old grand daughter has a couple of sets,
> and has done some interesting stuff with them.  Plus, they’re kind of fun …
> :-)
>
> Grant NQ5T
> K3 #2091, KX3 #8342
>
> > On Oct 15, 2017, at 11:46 AM, Dauer, Edward  wrote:
> >
> > Looking for suggestion about books or kits or whatever else that might
> interest a ten year old to electronics and to amateur radio.  He is adept
> at mechanical things and pretty bright.  What else could he be?  He’s my
> grandson.
> >
> > But his understanding of electronics is well insulated by contemporary
> smart phones and games and the like, about the innards of which one can
> learn nothing in the old way – the way we did it, by taking the family
> radio apart and then having to learn how to put it back together.
> >
> > Any other grandpas or grandmas out there have experiences to share?
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
>
>
>
>
> __
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*N6OL*
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 'S3' segment always on

[Nicklas Johnson]

Got it, thank you! I guess I was pretty far behind and just missed this
one. Now that I know what it means, it's quite a useful reminder!

   Nick

On Aug 19, 2017 10:46 AM, "Wayne Burdick" <n...@elecraft.com> wrote:

> Hi Nick,
>
> Adjust RF gain max clockwise (-0 dB). RF gain (actually loss) level is
> indicated by a segment on the S-meter.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> 
> http://www.elecraft.com
>
> > On Aug 19, 2017, at 8:17 AM, Nicklas Johnson <n...@n6ol.us> wrote:
> >
> > I updated to the 2.76 KX3 firmware Thursday, and noticed when I set
> things
> > up today that the bar graph segment under what would be S3 is now
> > constantly on, true whether I'm in CMP/ALC mode or the regular mode.
> >
> > Is there a new feature I missed and the graph is actually telling me
> > something useful, or is this behavior unexpected?
> >
> >   Nick
> >
> > --
> > *N6OL*
> > Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it
> > real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> > worth supporting.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >
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> > Message delivered to n...@elecraft.com
>
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[Elecraft] KX3 'S3' segment always on

[Nicklas Johnson]

I updated to the 2.76 KX3 firmware Thursday, and noticed when I set things
up today that the bar graph segment under what would be S3 is now
constantly on, true whether I'm in CMP/ALC mode or the regular mode.

Is there a new feature I missed and the graph is actually telling me
something useful, or is this behavior unexpected?

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Package Discounts

[Nicklas Johnson]

I have a question on this because it wasn't immediately obvious to me when
I looked at the web site the other day.

Are the bundles fully assembled units, or is it possible to get a bundle in
kit form? I really enjoyed the assembly of my KX3, and I really like the
idea of bundling common options too.

Sorry if that's a dumb question and I just missed something that was
staring me in the face.

   Nick

On Jul 29, 2017 12:31 PM, "Wayne Burdick"  wrote:

> Correct. The packages are just a convenience based on past ordering
> history.
>
> (FYI, we have a detailed features/performance comparison chart of the K3S
> vs. IC7300. Email me directly if interested.)
>
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>
> > On Jul 29, 2017, at 12:18 PM, Clay Autery  wrote:
> >
> > Just because they OFFER bundles doesn't mean you can't order a base unit
> > and a la carte.
> >
> > After all...  they ain't blowing out IC-7300s here.  
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > __
> > Clay Autery, KY5G
> >
> > On 7/29/2017 6:50 AM, Bill W4ZV wrote:
> >> http://www.elecraft.com/K3/K3.htm#K3SPkg
> >>
> >> I still question the wisdom of bundling the the preamp, USB, 630m
> >> capabilities, etc into the K3S.  This went against Elecraft's original
> >> philosophy of keeping base price low and choosing only the options we
> really
> >> wanted.  This resulted in inflating the base price which put it out of
> reach
> >> for many folks and further away from competing products (IC-7300,
> Kenwood
> >> 590 and Flex 6300).  That must be hurting sales resulting in
> discounting.
> >>
> >> A viable option is to buy a recent used K3 and sell/purchase options to
> >> configure it as you want.  Basic K3 prices are in the $1500 making this
> a
> >> viable alternative IMHO.
> >>
> >> 73,  Bill  W4ZV
>
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"

[Nicklas Johnson]

On 26 July 2017 at 15:40, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:

>
> Signing "/QRP" is just another manifestation of entitlement.  It is a
> way of saying "I'm different and I demand special treatment."
>
>
​I think you are reading waay more into it than what is actually
there.​  Different, sure, but it's equally plausible to interpret it as a
pre-emptive explanation for having a weaker signal (or an inability to
transmit with any more power) or even just as a throwaway "gee whiz"
factoid about what they're doing.  I'm unwilling to assume what someone
else's motives must be when I can immediately imagine multiple different
reasons why someone might do a thing.  When I see a call sign coming across
from someone I don't know, I can't ascribe some special meaning to their
indicator without more information; all QRP tells me is that they're
(probably) using low power, not WHY they're using low power or WHY they're
telling me about it.

For me to assume what their motivation might be would require my making
assumptions about them and their reasoning process, which is information I
absolutely do not have.

Maybe I'll start signing N6OL/PIE when I'm having pizza.  There's just as
much reason to get mad about that.

   Nick
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Re: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"

[Nicklas Johnson]

I can't imagine any world in which I would get bent out of shape or
judgmental about someone signing /QRP.  I'm not in this hobby to see how
many people I can *refuse* to speak to, let alone for a reason that would
require my making assumptions about the mental or emotional state of a
stranger.  Part 97 says /QRP is a perfectly valid indicator, so there's
certainly no rule being broken.  So why on earth would I care?

I wouldn't get irate with someone for using a Marconi antenna, or critique
their use of a dipole instead of a Yagi, either.

   Nick

On 26 July 2017 at 14:56, Chris Tate - N6WM  wrote:

> I dont care what they add as a designator as long as I get the q in the
> log.
>
> If I was really bent out of shape I would log them and then email them
> later and make any elmery suggestions after the fact, in a nice way.
> Calling them a lid would not fit that bill.
>
> ~C./WM
> 
> From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net [elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net]
> on behalf of Kevin der Kinderen [kkinde...@gmail.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, July 26, 2017 11:42 AM
> To: Ken G Kopp
> Cc: Elecraft
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Signing "/QRP"
>
> I view it as an invitation or a challenge. I always respond.
>
> 73,
> Kev K4VD
>
> On Wed, Jul 26, 2017 at 2:33 PM, Ken G Kopp  wrote:
>
> > I view it as a "I'm special ... Please take pitty on me - I -never-
> > respond.
> >
> > 73
> >
> > K0PP
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Re: [Elecraft] K3S Noise reduction Test

[Nicklas Johnson]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but is it not the case that the NR on the K3 isn't
just a case of "more" as you change settings, but also a case of changing
the _type_ (or strategy) of NR?  Or am I thinking of NB?

   Nick

On 20 June 2017 at 10:20, Jim Brown  wrote:

> On Tue,6/20/2017 10:09 AM, Dave Cole wrote:
>
>> It works very well!  I think there are too many
>> settings and some can be eliminated.  What are your thoughts?
>>
>
> Elecraft's NB and NR systems are designed so that they can be optimized
> for a wide variety of noise, and a wide variety of operating modes -- CW,
> SSB, AM, FM, and a dozen different digital modes. What's optimum for you
> may not be optimum for others with DIFFERENT sorts of noise and different
> modes. Like with shoes (and earphones), one size does not fit all.
>
> The logical response of a user is to do what you did -- try all the
> settings and find those that work best for your noise and operating
> conditions.
>
> 73, Jim K9YC
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] Taking KX3 on Airlines -Any issues/hassles with TSA/etc here days - with Bio-Engg 12V 7Ah Lithium Battery as Carry On Luggage

[Nicklas Johnson]

The only trouble I had was TSA in Hawaii confiscating my cheap wire
strippers, because they have a rule against tools greater than 8 inches in
length.  Because of course that's how terrorists are going to hijack a
plane-- with a pair of Home Depot wire strippers.  Funnily enough, TSA at
SFO on the way out didn't notice or care.  I had my Buddistick in my
checked luggage.

You definitely want anything with batteries in your carry-on, but you knew
that.

I brought along a photocopy of my license in my carry-on just in case I
needed it, but I didn't.

   Nick

On 14 May 2017 at 08:47, Michael Aust  wrote:

> Taking KX3 on Airlines -Any issues/hassles with TSA/etc  here days - with
> Bio-Engg 12V 7Ah Lithium Battery as Carry On Luggage
>
>
> USA to Hawaii
>
>
> USA oversea's
>
>
> Any recent traveler's experience with Airport screeners ?
>
>
> etc
>
>
> Mike
> WB6DJi
>
>
>
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] Who sells a small RF quiet solar charge controller?

[Nicklas Johnson]

I have one of these and it's completely silent except for the tiniest
"tick" when it begins a charge cycle.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0191QN7OO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8=1

On 16 March 2017 at 18:34, Aaron Marroquin 
wrote:

> http://ki0bk.no-ip.com/~pwrgate/LLPG/Site/Solar.html
>
> Also a HAM
>
> On Thu, Mar 16, 2017, 18:25 Matt Zilmer  wrote:
>
> > Cirkits.com.  The SCCS-3.  The owner is a ham, I believe.
> >
> > 73,
> >
> > matt W6NIA
> >
> >
> > On 03/16/2017 06:11 PM, Harry Yingst via Elecraft wrote:
> > >
> > > I'm looking for a small RF quiet solar charge controller to charge a
> > battery for my K2.
> > >
> > >
> > > Who makes a good quiet one?
> > >
> > >
> > > Thank you
> > > __
> > > Elecraft mailing list
> > > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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> > >
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> > > Message delivered to mzil...@roadrunner.com
> >
> > --
> > "Always store beer in a dark place." -- R. Heinlein
> >
> > Matt Zilmer, W6NIA
> > [Voignier]
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >
> --
>
> Thank you,
>
> Aaron M. Marroquin
> (707) 540-4446
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 "TUN PWR" option ignored?

[Nicklas Johnson]

Ohhh!  Thus my confusion, and I was in fact thinking the wrong
thing.

Thanks for clearing that up!!

   Nick

On 9 February 2017 at 10:05, Walter Underwood <wun...@wunderwood.org> wrote:

> TUN PWR sets the level for the TUNE button, not for the ATU TUNE button.
>
> wunder
> K6WRU
> Walter Underwood
> CM87wj
> http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)
>
> > On Feb 9, 2017, at 9:58 AM, Nicklas Johnson <n...@n6ol.us> wrote:
> >
> > If that's the case, it might be nice in a future firmware to make 3W the
> > lowest value for tun-pwr.  As it is today, it makes it appear as though
> you
> > could select values as low as 100mW, even though you actually can't.
> >
> >   Nick
> >
> > On 9 February 2017 at 09:55, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Nick,
> >>
> >> The ATU needs about 3 watts to find a good match, and that is the
> default.
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Don W3FPR
> >>
> >>
> >> On 2/9/2017 12:40 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
> >>
> >>> Just noticed that using the internal tuner, the TUN PWR option on the
> KX3
> >>> seems to be ignored, at least for any value less than 3W.  That is to
> say,
> >>> if I choose any transmit power less than 3W, the KX3 still uses 3W.
> >>>
> >>
> >
> >
> > --
> > *N6OL*
> > Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it
> > real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> > worth supporting.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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> >
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 "TUN PWR" option ignored?

[Nicklas Johnson]

If that's the case, it might be nice in a future firmware to make 3W the
lowest value for tun-pwr.  As it is today, it makes it appear as though you
could select values as low as 100mW, even though you actually can't.

   Nick

On 9 February 2017 at 09:55, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Nick,
>
> The ATU needs about 3 watts to find a good match, and that is the default.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 2/9/2017 12:40 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
>
>> Just noticed that using the internal tuner, the TUN PWR option on the KX3
>> seems to be ignored, at least for any value less than 3W.  That is to say,
>> if I choose any transmit power less than 3W, the KX3 still uses 3W.
>>
>


-- 
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[Elecraft] KX3 "TUN PWR" option ignored?

[Nicklas Johnson]

Just noticed that using the internal tuner, the TUN PWR option on the KX3
seems to be ignored, at least for any value less than 3W.  That is to say,
if I choose any transmit power less than 3W, the KX3 still uses 3W.

Am I doing something wrong, or is there some other option overriding this
one?  I'd much prefer to use the lowest amount of power practical when
tuning.

   Nick

-- 
*N6OL*
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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X Problem with K3S

[Nicklas Johnson]

In that case it's probably statistically slightly more likely that a CAT
command (seems like about 5 bytes) would get garbled going across the USB
than whatever bit stream went across the USB to turn RTS off.  One would be
an op-code (probably 8 bits) plus 5 more bytes, versus the other being just
an op code.  So it's odds of garbling 1 or more bits out of 8 versus 1 or
more bits out of ~48.  Probably mitigates the problem somewhat, but mostly
likely won't make it completely go away.

The best thing still will be attenuating the common mode noise on the USB
cable, IMO... keep it out of there in the first place.

   Nick


On 12 January 2017 at 10:41, Don Wilhelm <donw...@embarqmail.com> wrote:

> Nick,
>
> Yes, the K3S connects directly to USB, but inside the K3S is an FTDI USB
> to serial converter.  It has the RTS and DTR signals and they are properly
> routed to the K3S.  The RS-232 circuits in the K3S are retained just like
> as they were with the K3.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/12/2017 1:15 PM, Nicklas Johnson wrote:
>
>> Unless I'm mistaken, doesn't the K3S connect directly via USB though?  If
>> the problem is happening because of common mode on the USB cable, there is
>> no physical RTS line involved like there would be in an old-style
>> COM/RS232
>> device
>>
>


-- 
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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X Problem with K3S

[Nicklas Johnson]

Unless I'm mistaken, doesn't the K3S connect directly via USB though?  If
the problem is happening because of common mode on the USB cable, there is
no physical RTS line involved like there would be in an old-style COM/RS232
device- there is only serial data going across a USB cable to a logical COM
device inside the K3S.  It most likely wouldn't change anything in this
case.

   Nick

On 12 January 2017 at 10:08, Joe Subich, W4TV  wrote:

>
> On 1/12/2017 11:05 AM, John Stengrevics wrote:
> > What’s the solution, ferrites on the USB cable?
>
> Stop using CAT Commands for PTT!  Instead set CONFIG:PTT-Key to
> RTS-OFF and use RTS.  WSJT-X supports PTT Method = RTS by setting
> the PTT Port the same as the CAT Port.
>
> 73,
>
>... Joe, W4TV
>
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X Problem with K3S

[Nicklas Johnson]

The other thing, too, is if your antenna is just relatively close in
proximity to your shack, it won't matter how well balanced your feedline
is; you may still end up with cables inside your house that are resonant at
or near the frequency where you're transmitting, or at least near enough to
cause problems, with an intentional radiator (your antenna) nearby.  For
whatever reason, this always seems to be worse on 20 meters than other
bands with home electronics.  Then I don't know of an option for offending
equipment other than a few turns through some hefty ferrite on the resonant
cable(s).

(As I'm sure you know, a lot of home electronics are poorly executed with
respect to keeping out common mode currents... Jim Brown K9YC has published
a lot of really great information about this state of affairs.  Sometimes
the entry point for common mode noise isn't what you would expect, too.)

If you're like me, and you have a dipole antenna mounted on your roof,
getting it up a little higher may help some too...or just learning to live
with lower power output.  My threshold at home with digital modes on 20m is
about 27 watts... below that, everything is fine.  Above that, everything
is terrible.  Fortunately, most of the time I don't even need that much to
make a successful contact, and even with modes like WinLink, 15 watts is
plenty.

   Nick


On 12 January 2017 at 08:21, John Stengrevics 
wrote:

> Thanks Don.  I already have ferrites all over my coax cables, Anderson
> power cables, literally all over the house.
>
> Will try on the USB cable as well.
>
> John
> WA1EAZ
>
> > On Jan 12, 2017, at 11:17 AM, Don Wilhelm 
> wrote:
> >
> > John,
> >
> > The first step to solving RF-in-the-shack problems is to work on your
> antenna system.  Better common mode chokes on your feedline(s).
> > See the information by Jim Brown K9YC at http://audiosystemsgroup.com/
> RFI-Ham.pdf.
> >
> > If you still have problems after taking those measures, then use ferites
> on cables as a last resort solution.
> >
> > The reason I say this is because if you have RF interfering with the
> wiring in your station, you likely have similar interference on all wires
> in your station - you can fix one or two, but another similar problem will
> rear its ugly head later on.
> > If you fix the problem at its source, you will fix a lot of "strange
> behaviors".
> >
> > 73,
> > Don W3FPR
> >
> > On 1/12/2017 11:05 AM, John Stengrevics wrote:
> >> Hi Nick,
> >>
> >> Thanks for the suggestion!  I turned the power down to 2 watts and the
> problem went away.
> >>
> >> What’s the solution, ferrites on the USB cable?
> >>
>
>


-- 
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real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
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Re: [Elecraft] WSJT-X Problem with K3S

[Nicklas Johnson]

Two things: one is to go through the usual steps around keeping RF out of
the shack.  There are a lot of resources around this online regarding
baluns, "ugly baluns" and so-on.

The other thing I've done is exactly as you've said: several turns of
computer cables through ferrite.  Watch your cable bend radius.

   Nick

On 12 January 2017 at 08:05, John Stengrevics <jstengrev...@comcast.net>
wrote:

> Hi Nick,
>
> Thanks for the suggestion!  I turned the power down to 2 watts and the
> problem went away.
>
> What’s the solution, ferrites on the USB cable?
>
> John
> WA1EAZ
>
> On Jan 12, 2017, at 10:28 AM, Nicklas Johnson <n...@n6ol.us> wrote:
>
> When I've had this happen with other rigs in the past, it's been because
> of RF leaking back into the shack and causing CAT commands to fail (because
> of common mode current on the serial line).
>
> If you reduce power to something quite small, like 1-2 W, does it stop
> happening?
>
>Nick
>
> On 12 January 2017 at 07:03, stengrevics <jstengrev...@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> When I transmit (using MSK144), the transmit stays on after the
>> transmission
>> is complete causing spillover into the next sequence.  This happens
>> randomly.
>>
>> Anybody have any suggestions as to how to fix this?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> John
>> WA1EAZ
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabb
>> le.com/WSJT-X-Problem-with-K3S-tp7625670.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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>
>
>
> --
> *N6OL*
> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> worth supporting.
>
>
>


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] Audio artifacts in DATA A mode with KX3

[Nicklas Johnson]

Thank you, Wayne!  At least we know we're not crazy :-)

   Nick / N6OL

On 3 January 2017 at 13:45, Wayne Burdick <n...@elecraft.com> wrote:

> This is on the KX3 firmware list. I'll move it up a notch.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Jan 3, 2017, at 12:16 AM, David Anderson via Elecraft <
> elecraft@mailman.qth.net> wrote:
>
> > Nick,
> >
> > Thank you for bringing this up.
> >
> > I never did get a satisfactory explanation, I contacted support too but
> that didn't get me anywhere either, I don't think they understood my
> question, which is quite simple really, why can't we get the same bandwidth
> in Data mode as in SSB mode? I think it's a simple oversight, but nobody
> seemed interested in acknowledging it or fixing it.
> >
> >
> > 73 from David GM4JJJ
> >
> >> On 2 Jan 2017, at 23:54, Nicklas Johnson <n...@n6ol.us> wrote:
> >>
> >> Jörg in the Elecraft KX3 group on Facebook had an interesting
> observation:
> >> with WJST's waterfall, if the "flatten" mode is on, it produces some
> >> unusual artifacts in the presence of sharp spectrum drop-offs, and
> indeed
> >> if I turn off the "flatten" feature and manually set the zero point for
> the
> >> waterfall, the artifacts go away.
> >>
> >> It's still an open question as to why the data-a mode has a steep
> drop-off
> >> at 400Hz when the PBT settings on the rig would seem to indicate
> otherwise,
> >> and the same drop-off isn't there in USB mode.
> >>
> >> I see searching on "400 Hz" that GM4JJJ had the same question here on
> the
> >> last back in July 2015, but never really got an answer.  I basically
> have
> >> the same question as this one:
> >> https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg183837.html
> >>
> >>  Nick
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 2 January 2017 at 12:06, Nicklas Johnson <n...@n6ol.us> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I'm seeing some unexpected audio artifacts when using DATA A mode with
> the
> >>> latest production firmware on my KX3, on all bands.  This is something
> I
> >>> observe when the PBT BW is set all the way wide (4KHz) and FC is
> centered.
> >>>
> >>> In DATA mode, there's an audio drop-off between 200 and 325 Hz, with an
> >>> almost completely dead audio "hole" between 250 and 300 Hz.  Then
> there's
> >>> some additional noise between 350 and 500 Hz.
> >>>
> >>> If I switch to USB mode (with no EQ or audio effects applied,
> naturally),
> >>> all of these artifacts go away, and it's perfectly smooth across the
> >>> spectrum.  No drop-off, no noise.
> >>>
> >>> Pictures of the waterfalls for comparison here:
> http://imgur.com/a/AjHu4
> >>>
> >>> Am I doing something wrong, or is there something I should check?  I've
> >>> taken the usual steps, but it's plausible I've missed something.
> >>>
> >>> ​   Nick​
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>> *N6OL*
> >>> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't
> make
> >>> it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position
> is not
> >>> worth supporting.
> >>>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> --
> >> *N6OL*
> >> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't
> make it
> >> real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> >> worth supporting.
> >> __
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>
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> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >> Message delivered to gm4...@yahoo.co.uk
> >
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
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>
>


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] Audio artifacts in DATA A mode with KX3

[Nicklas Johnson]

Jörg in the Elecraft KX3 group on Facebook had an interesting observation:
with WJST's waterfall, if the "flatten" mode is on, it produces some
unusual artifacts in the presence of sharp spectrum drop-offs, and indeed
if I turn off the "flatten" feature and manually set the zero point for the
waterfall, the artifacts go away.

It's still an open question as to why the data-a mode has a steep drop-off
at 400Hz when the PBT settings on the rig would seem to indicate otherwise,
and the same drop-off isn't there in USB mode.

I see searching on "400 Hz" that GM4JJJ had the same question here on the
last back in July 2015, but never really got an answer.  I basically have
the same question as this one:
https://www.mail-archive.com/elecraft@mailman.qth.net/msg183837.html

   Nick


On 2 January 2017 at 12:06, Nicklas Johnson <n...@n6ol.us> wrote:

> I'm seeing some unexpected audio artifacts when using DATA A mode with the
> latest production firmware on my KX3, on all bands.  This is something I
> observe when the PBT BW is set all the way wide (4KHz) and FC is centered.
>
> In DATA mode, there's an audio drop-off between 200 and 325 Hz, with an
> almost completely dead audio "hole" between 250 and 300 Hz.  Then there's
> some additional noise between 350 and 500 Hz.
>
> If I switch to USB mode (with no EQ or audio effects applied, naturally),
> all of these artifacts go away, and it's perfectly smooth across the
> spectrum.  No drop-off, no noise.
>
> Pictures of the waterfalls for comparison here: http://imgur.com/a/AjHu4
>
> Am I doing something wrong, or is there something I should check?  I've
> taken the usual steps, but it's plausible I've missed something.
>
> ​   Nick​
>
> --
> *N6OL*
> Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make
> it real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
> worth supporting.
>



-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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[Elecraft] Audio artifacts in DATA A mode with KX3

[Nicklas Johnson]

I'm seeing some unexpected audio artifacts when using DATA A mode with the
latest production firmware on my KX3, on all bands.  This is something I
observe when the PBT BW is set all the way wide (4KHz) and FC is centered.

In DATA mode, there's an audio drop-off between 200 and 325 Hz, with an
almost completely dead audio "hole" between 250 and 300 Hz.  Then there's
some additional noise between 350 and 500 Hz.

If I switch to USB mode (with no EQ or audio effects applied, naturally),
all of these artifacts go away, and it's perfectly smooth across the
spectrum.  No drop-off, no noise.

Pictures of the waterfalls for comparison here: http://imgur.com/a/AjHu4

Am I doing something wrong, or is there something I should check?  I've
taken the usual steps, but it's plausible I've missed something.

​   Nick​

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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[Elecraft] HFlink scanning and KX3 relays

[Nicklas Johnson]

I may have a dumb question here, but I'll ask it anyway.

I'm playing with HFlink which does ALE scanning on a variety of bands.  As
you might imagine, on some rigs, this is a fairly noisy prospect with
relays snapping to select different filters.

I noticed that I'm also getting relay noise from my KX3, but I *thought*
that filters in the KX3 were diode switched.  Am I remembering wrong, or
could I have some setting differences between bands or globally set that
might be causing relays to become involved in band changes?

​   Nick​

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

Now that you mention it, I did notice the buzz went away when I turned on
the preamp, but I thought it was just my imagination or that the static had
just become sufficiently loud that my own hearing wasn't responding to it
anymore.

​Nick​

On 10 February 2014 03:02, Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net wrote:


 When I got my KX3, I connected it to a piece of wire lying on the floor
 for initial testing and was having the same problem, but switching on the
 ISO amp in the menu solved it for me as did the 8khz feature and turning on
 the 10dB preamp.

 Normally the antenna is far away from the wiring and the re-emitted signal
 is much weaker than the original signal, but if the only signal is the
 local oscillator, this is possibly not true and the fraction re-emitted by
 the wiring is stronger than the original local oscillator.


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

Interesting, and if I may ask a potentially-dumb question, what do we
really mean when we use the word isolation in this context, and how does
it provide the benefit of keeping the buzz out of the detector (or to ask
the question in the reverse, how does the buzz get in, in the absence of
additional isolation)?

   Nick

On 10 February 2014 08:40, Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net wrote:

 Hi Nick,

 Turning on the preamp increases the isolation between the local oscillator
 and the antenna port. I also wasn't sure if my buzz went away when I
 turned on the preamp (I couldn't hear it any more) but I used the spectral
 display of the MixW-Software and the microphone of my laptop to check and I
 found it didn't go completely away (was still visible in the waterfall) but
 got much weaker...

 --
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
__
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

Makes sense.  And that's why the RX SHFT also works, because then the
reflected signal is shifted away from the RX frequency by the same amount
as the shift.  That was a great explanation, and I thank you for it!

Another solution in my case, then, might be to just move the antenna
further away from the house so the local oscillator's signal isn't mixed
with and reflected by the house wiring (and/or whatever may be plugged into
it).

I noticed that I didn't have the same problem with the inverted-V dipole up
on the roof, I imagine in part because it's so much further away from the
house wiring (and the house).

   Nick


On 10 February 2014 09:40, Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net wrote:

 The problem with all receivers using a local oscillator (direct conversion
 or superhet) is that they emit a small part of the local oscillator power
 via the mixer to the antenna port (maybe a typical number of L.O. to R.F.
 Port Isolation of a mixer is 40 dB or something like that). In a superhet,
 the local oscillator's frequency is far away from the rx frequency and the
 front end filtering keeps the oscillator signal from leaving the RX.
 In a direct conversion RX, the oscillator is on the same frequency as the
 RX. So basically, you have a very little transmitter that is always exactly
 on your rx frequency. In principle, this signal can be reflected by some
 structure and get back into the receiver (which would cause a d.c. offset)
 or in your (and my) case, it can be absorbed by the wiring, modulated by
 the 60/120 Hz in one of the power supplies and than be re-emitted by the
 wiring before being received via the antenna. In this case, you receive a
 carrier plus 60 Hz sidebands, but the carrier is at zero beat so you only
 hear the sidebands.

 The additional isolation (the oscillator signal tries to pass the amp in
 the wrong direction) of the preamp makes the emitted fraction of the
 local oscillator power maybe 20 dB weaker so that is buried in the
 atmospheric noise.

 --
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

I think that is very likely to be the case, yes.  It's worth noting that it
is a somewhat badly unbalanced antenna at the moment.  Normally it would
have a set of el-cheapo tape measures attached as radials, but the weather
and time have not been kind to them, so they're not currently attached...
the only ground is the actual earth ground at the base of the antenna.  So
I won't be even a tiny bit surprised to find no shortage of common-mode
problems on the shield.

I think I keep a spare length of coax around here somewhere that can be
readily wound around a coffee can to make a common-mode choke when needed.
 Will be interesting to see if that is enough to clear up the detection
problem, too.

   Nick


On 10 February 2014 10:18, Ralf Wilhelm r...@super-deutschland.net wrote:

 You have written earlier that you could pull the coax plug half out
 (disconnecting the shield) and that this also helped. So maybe you have
 common mode current on the coax  which would also increase the coupling to
 the wiring (because not only the antenna itself but also the coax would
 emit the local oscillator). Since this could also  increase the risk of
 r.f.i. when you transmit I would recommend that you add a common mode
 current choke (a few windings of the coax?) close to the rig - and a second
 one near the antenna perhaps...

 --
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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[Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

Hi all,

I'm trying to make sure that I understand something kind of weird that I
ran across today; I hate resolving a problem without fully appreciating
everything that was causing it.

Since 10M was pretty active today, I thought I'd pop on, and since the
ground was nice and wet, I thought I'd give my Home Depot ground-mounted
vertical a go.  (It's a vertical made entirely out of things you'd find in
Home Depot's plumbing, lumber, and window departments. I didn't have the
tape-measure radials connected today, just the ground stakes around it.)

Midway through the day I started picking up what looked and sounded like a
60Hz + harmonics buzz.  I did not have a power supply connected to the KX3,
and I pulled all the other connectors from the computer to make sure I
wasn't getting some kind of ground loop hum.  No dice.

To make matters more interesting if I backed the antenna connector halfway
off, such that the ground was no longer connected, the hum disappeared.  I
started worrying that I was having some trouble with the local utility, but
decided I'd better rule out something in the house first.

Through the course of troubleshooting, I came to find the culprit was a USB
phone charger on the other side of the wall from the antenna, with the USB
cable stretched out across the floor.  Unplugging it or disconnecting the
USB cable mostly made the noise go away (but not entirely, though there are
so many different power supplies and things inside the house, there could
be multiple sources of noise, too).

I mostly sorted the problem by winding the proximal end of the USB cable
about 6 times through a ferrite core, though a small amount of noise
remained just by virtue of the thing being plugged in at all.

Then I noticed that tuning up or down a few Hz had no effect at all on
where the noise showed up in the waterfall, which got me wondering if it
was a noise getting picked up in decoding.  I set the RX SHFT setting to
8.0, and indeed, the noise disappeared entirely.

I don't completely understand the why part of what happened here... that
is to say, why did it change based on whether the ground side of the
antenna was connected or not, and why did changing the RX SHFT get rid of
it?

(​Also I note that the ground is particularly wet and conductive today,
which may or may not be a factor in why I noticed it today.)

Any thoughts?

   Nick​

-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

In this case the 'transmitter' was the switching power supply in a USB cell
phone charger plugged into an outlet in relatively close proximity to the
antenna (other side of the wall of the house).

The charger plugged in by itself put off a little noise.  With the USB
cable plugged into it and stretched out across the floor, it put off a lot
more noise (until I added a ferrite to it).  Unplugging the charger or
switching off the circuit breaker to that side of the house also would make
the noise go away (for the most part... but there are a lot of random
little cheap switching power supplies in the house that get picked up to
some degree).

​I'm a little stumped about how the noise put off by these little things
could be so strong as to blow past the mixer and get into the detector,
unless it's just the close proximity to the antenna (probably 2-3 feet).
 There's little question that it was, though, given its lack of movement
when changing QRG (and this was USB) and the fact that it went away by
changing RX SHFT.

Extra weird is that it seemed to be getting picked up by the ground
connection (or maybe the cable shield).​

​   Nick​

On 9 February 2014 18:37, Matt Zilmer mzil...@roadrunner.com wrote:

 Hi Nick,

 RX SHFT is normally used to cancel the effects of AM detection of very
 strong signals that blow by the mixer and enter the detector -
 overload.  Since enabling RX SHFT cured this 60Hz+harmonics problem,
 it seems likely that you were copying a strong signal with little or
 no modulation.  You may have been hearing the transmitter's power
 supply ripple.

 Is your QTH near a broadcast station or military facility?  I've come
 across a similar problem once in a while when operating portable.
 Usually, the signal comes out as station audio that can't be tuned
 away from.  A couple years ago, I had exactly the same symptoms (never
 could explain the _what_ part) and RX SHFT was what I used to solve
 it.  It also works well on the OM down the street that operates with
 all gain controls set to 11.  :)

 73,
 matt W6NIA


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

I should have mentioned this specifically, but I was operating the KX3
strictly from batteries at the time.

Connecting a 13.8V source to it (one that was plugged into the house power)
didn't really change whether the 'buzz' was present or not.

​The only thing that changed it was either unplugging the offending power
supply, or de-energizing that circuit in the house (by tripping the
breaker).​

​I guess it's not impossible that the thing was putting off a lot more
energy than I thought, and I was picking up a lot of common-mode noise on
the cable shield-- a lot more than I thought I would/should.​

​Good ideas though.​

​   Nick
​
On 9 February 2014 20:05, Matt Zilmer mzil...@roadrunner.com wrote:

 Hi Nick,

 After reading your reply, I think I have an idea.

 I've had the same problem in a mobile setting, where good grounds are
 scarce and there is a lot of transient noise around.  If -somehow- the
 noise put off by the charger were to get onto the 12V line into the
 KX3, you might get this effect.  I don't see how this could happen
 though.


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3: nearby noise post-mortem

[Nicklas Johnson]

That's a really good point, and in fact I have it on my 'to do' list to get the 
bonding done correctly. It's complicated by the ground rods being on the 
opposite side of the house, and the utilities running underground without an 
exposed ground stake by the utility box outside. 

I think code also won't let me run conduit under the house in the crawl space, 
so it has to go around the outside of the house, and then somehow 
safely/correctly enter the utility box and connect to the utility ground bus. 

I wonder if code allows the conduit to run through a garage, and if it'll be 
okay to run up the wall about 8' to get through it and be out of the way or if 
it's okay to run it along the roof line rather than along the ground (I think 
along the ground would be preferable)... 

... Maybe it'll be best to hire someone to handle that part. 

Definitely agree it needs to be done, and I've already been planning it out / 
waiting for a tax refund. 

   Nick 


On February 9, 2014 9:01:09 PM PST, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:
Nick,

I suspect your antenna ground stakes were not connected to the utility 
entry ground rod with a #6 or larger copper wire.  The earth creates 
resistance between the antenna ground stake(s) and the AC ground in
your 
home.


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Re: [Elecraft] Importance of good coaxial jumpers

[Nicklas Johnson]

At risk of going way off topic, any tips for getting a nice, solid solder
connection on the shield in a reasonable amount of time?  I have
historically had a really hard time getting it to the point that I'm really
satisfied with it, and I can't help but wonder if I'm doing something
wrong, or if there's a 'trick' to making it easier.

Nick


On 11 November 2013 17:22, mcduf...@ag0n.net wrote
​:​


 Learn how to properly install soldered coax connectors and make your own
 jumpers
 from high quality coax and connectors.  Why hook your radios and
 amplifiers that
 cost thousands of dollars to your antenna with $2 jumpers that are begging
 to
 fail at just the wrong time.  Is there ever a right time?

 --
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Pitch Resolution

[Nicklas Johnson]

I have to agree with the assessment that there being one ideal pitch for
CW is bunk.  It's a load of nonsense.

I'm a person who CAN perceive even tiny deviations in pitch, but CW is
information encoded in the on/off timing, not in the pitch, so it seems
really weird to me to try to make it conform to some kind of musical
standard.  The pitches we use in music are all pretty arbitrary anyway.
 There used to be wide disagreement even about the frequency for A, and
there are tuning systems other than 12-tone equal temperament, too.

Every person's cochlea frequency response is going to vary a little, and
some people (like me) will even have a slightly different curve from one
ear to the other.

The best frequency at which to hear CW is the one that sounds good to you
at the moment and that you can copy the best right now, end of story, IMHO.

   Nick




On 13 October 2013 07:46, Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Hi John,

 I read that article too.  Personally I think it is a lot of bunk. It
 assumes perfect hearing.


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Re: [Elecraft] SDR software for KX3?

[Nicklas Johnson]

I had a lot of trouble until I put a ground-loop isolator between the KX3
and the PC.  The grounding at my QTH is a bit less-than-perfect, and I was
getting a 60Hz+harmonics buzz by connecting the PC to the KX3.  Not saying
it is the case with you, but it's just another one of those things.

You might try disconnecting the KX3 from your ground and running it off
batteries to see if it matters as far as the SDR is concerned... it's easy
to rule out a ground loop that way.


On 12 October 2013 18:20, Tom tom...@videotron.ca wrote:

 I think I'll be looking at the cables, I seem to be picking up some 60 hz
 on the kx3, fairly low level but this is on the battery so it must be
 coming from a connection somewhere. ThTs probably why there's always a log
 spur at the center frequently .
 I seem to have hdsdr working acceptably except for the spur. I'll also try
 rockey.
 Thanks for the suggestions
 Tom




  Original message 
 From: WB4JFI wb4...@knology.net
 Date: 12/10/2013  20:49  (GMT-05:00)
 To: Tom tom...@videotron.ca
 Cc: Barry LaZar k3...@comcast.net,elecraft@mailman.qth.net
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SDR software for KX3?

 Hello Tom.

 I have had success with using several SDR software programs (and sound
 cards) with my KX3.  It shouldn't be that hard.  I've used Rocky, hDSDR, a
 few variants of PowersDR, SDRsharp, and a few others, on various Windows
 and Apple (iPad, iPhone) computers.

 Most programs have internal adjustments for phase and gain differences, so
 you don't need to adjust those with External mixer controls.  Try Rocky
 first, it's probably the easiest to set up and use.  It can also
 automatically adjust for your sound card and rig differences.

 If you are having so many problems, be sure to check your cables.  I have
 had a couple of commercially made cables that were defective, with partial
 shorts between the various connections.  I had trouble with I/Q balancing
 until I found they were bad.

 Good luck.  73, Terry, WB4JFI
 Sent from tfox iPad

  On Oct 12, 2013, at 7:27 PM, Tom tom...@videotron.ca wrote:
 
  Hi
  Well I just bought a new outboard sound card and removed all previous
 cards. I'm now running an emu2020 and I can adjust the levels between the
 channels. I can minimize the images but as soon as you move up or down a
 while the images are back. I also have lots of spurious peaks making it
 impossible to distinguish between cw and spurs. There is no adjustment in
 software for the inputs but I can adjust the levels on the outside. The
 images look nowhere like what you see on YouTube.
  Getting pretty frustrated here
  Tom
 
 
 
 
 
   Original message 
  From: Barry LaZar k3...@comcast.net
  Date: 12/10/2013  17:28  (GMT-05:00)
  To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] SDR software for KX3?
 
  Guys,
   The one that really works well is NaP3. It was originally set up
  for the K3, but the latest iteration does a great job on the KX3. I've
  been running with the software for about a year or so, and I now don't
  know how function without it.
 
 
  73,
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[Elecraft] Semi-OT: Traveling by air with KX3 Buddistick

[Nicklas Johnson]

After my last trip, when I got hassled by the TSA about my wire stripper
(no tools longer than 7 inches, even ones that couldn't possibly hurt
anyone), I thought this time I should probably ask around first...

Has anyone traveled with a KX3 and a Buddistick in carry-on luggage?  I've
got NiMH batteries installed in the KX3, and in the Buddistick bag there's
the antenna itself and a couple spools of 25' of coax.

It seems like it SHOULD be okay, unless they mistake segments of the
Buddistick for Billy Clubs, which aren't allowed in carry-on (but are okay
in checked luggage).

But you never know these days... has anyone tried it, either successfully
or unsuccessfully and can share experiences?

​   Nick​

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Re: [Elecraft] RIGblaster Advantage for Serious Digital Modes, with KX3?

[Nicklas Johnson]

I find that putting my KX3 into DATA mode to bypass all the EQ, setting
the volume to 30, and setting both the in and out gain of my sound card
to 8 works perfectly well.

Yes, the volume on the KX3 isn't fixed, so I fix it manually by knowing
what number I want to set it on (30) which gives it about the same gain
that my little headset adapter soundcard ($10 on Amazon) gets from my
Icom's fixed output.

Enabling DATA disables EQ and compression. It works great.

No complaints, and I make perfectly reasonable data mode contacts
consistently with it.  I did find that I needed to build a ground-loop
isolator for the KX3 to play nice with the computer, evidently because
either the Rigblaster I use with the Icom, or the Icom itself already has a
1:1 isolation transformer, whereas the KX3 apparently does not.

Nick



On 17 September 2013 12:46, Brian Alsop als...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Joe,

 There easy work around to this-- like adding a series resistor between AF
 output and earphones.  Some earphones have built in volume controls.

 I use the non-fixed output of the K3 all the time for RTTY receive. Having
 some control over the audio into the decoder is sometimes an advantage.

 Would you refuse to work a DXpedition that used such a digital setup?

 73 de Brian/K3KO


 On 9/17/2013 19:24, Joe Subich, W4TV wrote:

  Both of those features are a must for serious digital operation.
 The independent, fixed level receive output means there are significant
 level conflicts between operator needs and the needs of the digital
 software.  It also represents a real potential for hearing damage if
 the digital software requires a high audio level and headphones are
 plugged in with the level too high.

  73,

 ... Joe, W4TV




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 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 2012.0.2242 / Virus Database: 3222/6174 - Release Date: 09/17/13


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Re: [Elecraft] OT: signature lines

[Nicklas Johnson]

These don't rank even in the top 100 in terms of things that keep me up at
night.

It's pretty annoying when an email or text or IM contains *so much*
malformed spew that I have to struggle and re-read several times to
transform it into something I can understand, but if I can apply quick
mental error correction with a minimum of effort, it's way easier to 'let
it go' than it is to gripe about it.​  I'm sure occasionally people even
transmit typos in CW.  Forgiveness and tolerance are pretty nice things.

(​Personally I find ordinary, everyday verbal abuse of the language (where
phones aren't even involved) FAR more obnoxious​, like using the word ask
as a noun.  But that's my pet peeve :-) )

​   Nick​

On 12 September 2013 19:32, Rick Bates happymooseph...@gmail.com wrote:

 Typos or improper spelling or the incorrect words are always inevitable.
  Proper grammar errors are yet more likely.


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 display question

[Nicklas Johnson]

IIRC, just tapping the PWR control will change the display between CMP/ALC
and SWR/RF.


On 11 September 2013 08:38, Mel farrerfo...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I am not sure when I noticed it, but while the manual indicates that the
 display can show power output and SWR, it does so only on tune.  During Tx
 it shows CMP and ALC.  Is there a toggle to see Tx power and SWR when
 transmitting?  I could not find anything in the manual.  Thanks.


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[Elecraft] KX3 SWR meter (RF feedback?)

[Nicklas Johnson]

Hi all,

I'm currently on a trip and brought my KX3 and Buddistick with me.  I also
brought along my antenna analyzer.  As one does when relaxing.

The analyzer shows that the Buddistick is giving me = 1.5:1 SWR across the
20m band, and I did a tuner memory clear (I'm using the beta firmware) and
fresh tune for 20m on the KX3.  It reports 1:1 after doing just a little
tuning up.  Receive sounds fantastic here in the middle of nowhere.

On transmit, however, the SWR meter on the KX3 is showing =3:1.  The
signal seems to be getting out admirably; pskreporter.info shows I've been
picked up in Japan, Alaska and all the way to the east coast of the US.  If
I physically grab the shield of the antenna connector, the SWR meter drops
a little bit.  I wish I had brought my external SWR meter along with me for
comparison.

If I lower the power output to 0.3W, the SWR meter drops all its bars, but
when I increase it to 0.4W, it flickers a bit but goes up to =3:1.

My question is this: could this be just an RF feedback issue due to the
relatively close proximity of the KX3 with the Buddistick?  The way the
coax routing worked out, I'm sitting only about 10-12 feet from the
antenna.

If so, aside from getting further away from the antenna somehow, are there
other suggestions of things that can be done in the field to work around or
mitigate the problem?

Thanks for any advice,

   Nick / N6OL

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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 SWR meter (RF feedback?)

[Nicklas Johnson]

I'm face-palming. I should have thought of that. Fortunately I did bring an 
extra length of coax and a barrel connector. I wonder if maybe I could leave 
that 25' length of cable coiled up just as it is (though it's closer to an 8 
diameter) and see if the behavior changes. 

Good call.  I'll try a few things. 

   Nick

John Oppenheimer j...@kn5l.net wrote:
Hi Nick,

Are you using a Balun of some sort at the antenna? If not, try a coax
coil Balun with your feedline. 
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 SWR meter (RF feedback?)

[Nicklas Johnson]

John,

Thanks much for the suggestion.  10+ turns around a paper towel roll
completely cured the problem.  Glad I brought the extra coax and a barrel
connector with me!

http://i.imgur.com/ZJDFtCg.jpg

73 and thanks again,

   Nick


On 7 September 2013 10:51, John Oppenheimer j...@kn5l.net wrote:

 Hi again Nick,

 A coax coil Balun works best if it's wound in a solenoid fashion as in
 the example.

 John KN5L




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Re: [Elecraft] anyone using iMic with K3 or KX3 and FLdigi on a PC?

[Nicklas Johnson]

FWIW, one resource I often forget about and then remember later when doing
PSK troubleshooting is the fantastic http://www.pskreporter.info/ .  It
really is a great help to see if your signal is getting out, and how far it
is getting.  (Though I think pskreporter has more jt65 reporting on it
these days ;-) )

   Nick

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Re: [Elecraft] 4S lipo battery for KX3?

[Nicklas Johnson]

This is the first time I've read about LiFePo4 batteries; is it correct to
say that one needs to pair a 3.2V AA LiFePo4 with a dummy AA?  Does the
timed charger module in a KX3 play nicely with this type of battery?

   Nick


On 25 August 2013 12:23, Mark Goldberg marklgoldb...@gmail.com wrote:

 I use LiFePo4 batteries. 4s will go from 14 to 12V from 0 to 90% discharge.
 Perfect match for KX3 with full power all the way. No voltage reduction or
 noisy DC-DC converter needed. Search the Elecraft lists archives for mine
 and other posts with sources.

 Mark
  On Aug 24, 2013 8:03 PM, Gil G. g...@keskydee.com wrote:

  Hello,
 
  I just got a lipo charger and 3S packs for my MTR and K1, but I wonder if
  a 4S pack could be used with my KX3? The voltage is presumably 14.8V,
 but I
  assume it would be a little more at full charge..? Is anyone using a 4S
  battery pack with the KX3?
  I guess I could use one or two diodes to drop 0.6 or 1.2V…?
 
  Thanks.
 
  Gil.
  --
  PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
 
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Re: [Elecraft] 4S lipo battery for KX3?

[Nicklas Johnson]

Thanks for all the info, guys.  I'll look into these before my next big
trip!

   Nick


On 25 August 2013 16:31, Mark Goldberg marklgoldb...@gmail.com wrote:

 The LiFePO4 batteries have to be external. They don't fit inside and are
 completely different voltages and charge characteristics. They should have
 a balancing charger, many external universal RC chargers do that. I've
 posted links in the past to some chargers.

 Mark
 On Aug 25, 2013 12:52 PM, Nicklas Johnson n...@n6ol.us wrote:

 This is the first time I've read about LiFePo4 batteries; is it correct to
 say that one needs to pair a 3.2V AA LiFePo4 with a dummy AA?  Does the
 timed charger module in a KX3 play nicely with this type of battery?

Nick


 On 25 August 2013 12:23, Mark Goldberg marklgoldb...@gmail.com wrote:

  I use LiFePo4 batteries. 4s will go from 14 to 12V from 0 to 90%
 discharge.
  Perfect match for KX3 with full power all the way. No voltage reduction
 or
  noisy DC-DC converter needed. Search the Elecraft lists archives for
 mine
  and other posts with sources.
 
  Mark
   On Aug 24, 2013 8:03 PM, Gil G. g...@keskydee.com wrote:
 
   Hello,
  
   I just got a lipo charger and 3S packs for my MTR and K1, but I
 wonder if
   a 4S pack could be used with my KX3? The voltage is presumably 14.8V,
  but I
   assume it would be a little more at full charge..? Is anyone using a
 4S
   battery pack with the KX3?
   I guess I could use one or two diodes to drop 0.6 or 1.2V…?
  
   Thanks.
  
   Gil.
   --
   PGP Key: http://keskydee.com/gil.asc
  
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 PSK help needed

[Nicklas Johnson]

Hi Julie,

A lot of laptops these days are using those annoying combo jacks, which
instead of having a tip, ring, and sleeve, have a tip two rings, and a
sleeve, putting the mic-in and stereo headphone-out connections one a
single jack.  Splitters are available online, but I have not been
successful in getting those splitters to work either; it seems like the
on-board audio in many laptops senses whether one has plugged in a combo
plug versus a headphone plug by looking for a specific impedance on the
microphone side, and I haven't spent the time to figure out what impedance
they expect me to present.

I got sufficiently frustrated with it that I went down to my local computer
retailer and purchased a USB headset adapter.  It plugs into a USB port,
and has two jacks-- one for headphones, one for a microphone.  In reality
it's just a very simple sound card with one input and one output.  It works
a treat though.  Cost me all of $10, and it works with both my PC and my
Macbook Pro like a charm.  The one I have uses the C-Media chipset, and it
looks a little bit like this one, though this isn't exactly it:
http://www.amazon.com/Sabrent-virtual-External-Adapter-USB-AUDD/dp/B00D69U1B0/

With regard to your PTT problem, make sure you're using a program that will
do PTT via CAT command.  If it is trying to do PTT by raising CTS or RTS,
you won't get anywhere.  You may need to install FlRig and use HamRig if
you're using FlDigi.

Hope this helps,

   Nick




On 24 August 2013 08:28, Julie Royster jsdroys...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Hello all,
 I have studied the prior posts about KX3 and PSK31 but I am still not
 getting it.

 1.   The other day I succeeded in setting Mic Btn to OFF but today when
 I go to the menu the only choices for Mic Btn are PTT and NR - OFF no
 longer
 shows up as a choice!  Where did I go wrong?
 2.  Has anyone succeeded in using a LAPTOP with KX3 without an iMic or
 a
 signalink for PSK?  A lot of the prior posts refer to desktops that have a
 line in connection (laptop does not) or to setups using iMic or Signalink.
 3.  Would Don Wilhelm's comments about attenuators being needed between
 computer soundcard and KX3 apply to laptops as well? How would I know? What
 could I measure?
 4.  I had a waterfall the other day but could not get TX to light up on
 the KX3.  I am using the cables sold by Elecraft.
 Any and all advice is greatly appreciated!
 Julie KT4JR
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 and whats next from Elecraft

[Nicklas Johnson]

The thought crossed my mind when I was looking at getting either a K3 or a
KX3 too (and ultimately I decided on the KX3, which is still really new).

I'll probably be in the market for something like the K3 in another year or
two, and like you, if I knew the next model were coming along shortly, I'd
prefer to wait and get the new thing rather than go for the old thing.

I ran my question by customer service at the time, and the response I got
was that they are *always* working on the next new thing, but no idea what
it would be called or what the timeline might be like, and they also
pointed out that people are still buying and building K2's after all these
years.

   Nick



On 18 August 2013 12:39, Trevor Dunne trevor_du...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Hi All

 I have been reading the mail here for some time while I debate the
 purchase of a K3 in my head. I can't help to notice the lack of subjects
 covering the K3 and the lack of new firmware in over 4 months.


 Would if be fair to think that development has finished on the K3 and that
 now all the accessories(amp,P3,ATU,ect) are in place, also the KX3 and
 matching amp are out there, Have the good people in Elecraft moved on to
 develop a new radio a K4 maybe 

 Nothing worse than getting something new only for it to be replaced by a
 newer model a few weeks after getting it.


 Thanks
 Trevor
 EI2GLB
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Re: [Elecraft] K3 TX Power

[Nicklas Johnson]

I can't comment on the K3 specifically, but I once had something very
similar happen with an Icom rig, and the problem turned out to be leaky
gates in the finals, unfortunately (they had to be replaced)... though in
my case the power output was a little more random compared to what you're
seeing.

I also observed a quirk of ALC in my KX3 which I haven't spent much time on
trying to reproduce yet, but maybe you can play with and see. It *appeared*
as though having the ALC kick in would actually reduce power to below the
point just before ALC took effect.  To give a more concrete example, say
setting the output volume of the PC to 9 would not trigger ALC, and the
KX3 would transmit 4 watts; turning the volume up to 10 on the PC would
trigger ALC, and the KX3 would transmit 3.8 watts, suggesting that ALC,
once activated, limits to something less than 100% of its threshold value.
 Again, I haven't played with this much, it's just something that *seemed*
to be happening.

(I don't think that would explain the behavior you're seeing though.)

I know I'm being sort of vague and nonspecific, but maybe some ideas to
play with.

   Nick



On 16 August 2013 09:33, Ray Coles raycole...@gmail.com wrote:

 For the last few months I have been focussing on datamode operation, and
 putting a lot of hitherto unobtainable DX in the log as a result.

 I have noticed a problem with my K3 on all bands related to TX power. My
 rig
 is a K3/100 plus a KPA500/KAT500 combo which remain on STBY for digital
 modes of course.

 My problem is: I dial in a power-setting on the K3 and for the first (let's
 say JT65) transmission the actual transmitted power as measured by: the K3
 itself, the KPA500 and my inline MFJ duelling banjo wattmeter is always
 much
 less. If I dial in 100W I would get 20-30W during my first transmission,
 30-50W on the second, and 75-80W on the third. On the 4th or 5th minute of
 transmission it will reach the dialled in power setting. The SWRs are all
 in
 the 1 to 1.5 range and I can see no external problems.

 This is not good because I would really prefer it the other way around,
 once
 someone has responded they will stick with you, but if they don't hear you
 on the first call, you're toast.

 To offset the problem I turn the power up to 100W and cross my fingers that
 they will hear my first (weak) transmission. Unfortunately by the time I am
 done, I am putting out more power than is healthy for other users who may
 find that the weak signal they are working is pushed down by their AGC due
 to my strong signal in the same window.

 Attempts to adjust the power during a QSO fail, with a minor downward
 adjustment (say from 100 to 80W) resulting in the true output power
 plummeting to 20W and the cycle starting over.

 This doesn't seem to be any kind of warm-up issue (my first suspicion)
 but
 maybe some kind of logic or control feedback issue.

 Has anybody else experienced this? Is it me?



 Ray Coles, C.Eng. M0XDL

 10 Littlemoor Road,

 Weymouth DT3 6AA

 Tel: +44 (0) 1305 833699

 Mob: 07831 516517







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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 12kHz audio spike

[Nicklas Johnson]

Haha glad it helped you, but it  wasn't originally my idea. Credit goes to 
whomever had suggested it to me here on the list. Turning IQ on will draw 
around 10ma more power by my reading, but it's worth it not to hear that 
godawful squeal, IMHO. 

   Nick (I am still using my 3-pole LC filter when I use headphones) 

Jessie Oberreuter joberreu-...@moselle.com wrote:


On Thu, 8 Aug 2013, Nicklas Johnson wrote:

 I did find that turning I/Q on reduced the spike significantly, but 
 didn't eliminate it entirely.

  Holy Cow!  That did it!  Rich!  I wonder if your dev unit had the rx 
I/Q turned on!  Nicklas, THANK YOU!  That takes it down to the point
where 
I can no longer hear it!  There's still general high-freq fatigue with
the 
ear-buds, but that's hardly unique to the KX3, and I don't generally
use 
ear-buds with radios anyway.

  Nicklas, you just made my day!
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Re: [Elecraft] JT65 - KX3

[Nicklas Johnson]

Instruction link:
http://www.elecraft.com/manual/E740169%20KX3-PCKT%20Cable%20Set%20Instructions%20Rev%200.pdf

Don't forget to put the KX3 in DATA mode, select DATA A, and widen the
passband for JT65-HF.  I also found I needed to build and insert a ground
loop isolator between the KX3 and the PC.

You'll probably also want to go through the thermal calibration routine
when using JT65 or other lengthy-transmitting modes.

Hope this is helpful,

   Nick




On 12 August 2013 15:02, Don Wilhelm w3...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 George,

 The KX3-PCKT Cable Set is made specifically for data mode operation.  You
 can download the instructions to have a look and evaluate the applicability
 to your setup.

 73,
 Don W3FPR


 On 8/12/2013 5:55 PM, George Rebong wrote:

 Can I  use my JT65 to a KX3? Where do I connect the USB Sound Card to KX3?
   And what cables do I need for the Soundcard and KX3?
 George Rebong
KE6TE


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Re: [Elecraft] new computer advice suggestions for using with a K3

[Nicklas Johnson]

I built my own last PC, and though it isn't RF-quiet, it's pretty close,
but partially by serendipity.  The only thing noisy about it are the
ethernet ports, and some big snap-on chokes have greatly mitigated that
problem.

The way I stumbled upon a fairly quiet PC has to do with some design
motives that I had.  What I wanted was an audibly-quiet PC that used very
minimal power.  Quite by accident this also resulted in an RF-quiet PC.

Here's what I bought: a horzontally-oriented home theater PC case from
Antec; these are designed to contain audible noise well, and they're also
quite sturdy, and, more importantly for us, metal all the way around.  The
exact case I bought is no longer on the market, but there is probably an
equivalent successor to it.  Mine is an NSK2400.

In this case I mounted a micro-ATX Intel motherboard.  They only make a few
micro-ATX boards, and you sacrifice a little bit of raw processing speed
and expansion slots for a compact form factor and, more importantly, lower
power consumption.  The good news is that their recent micro-ATX boards
have a ton of USB slots, so although you have fewer PCI slots, you also
don't need many, especially if you can get by with the integrated video.
 I'm not much of a gamer, so I just use the on-board video, and it is fine
for everything I've ever wanted to do.  It would probably not be that great
for playing a full-motion first-person shooter game, but it'll run HRD or
FlDigi/FlRig just fine.  The motherboard I'm using is an Intel DQ67SW,
though it is now several years old, and something newer/better is probably
available by now.

After a while, I blew the power supply that came with the motherboard, and
at that time I replaced it with a green Antec power supply.  These have
higher efficiency, and, it seems, less noise.  They also seem to be
grounded properly.

So my suggestion would be to build a home theater PC or look for one
pre-built in a nice steel case.  It's a bit more work to build your own,
but if you built a K3, putting a PC together should be totally doable...
and this way you get to be choosy about your components.  Then get one of
the many USB-to-DB9 cables available out in the wild for your serial ports,
or get one of the PCI serial port boards to put in.  I doubt you'll have a
very easy time finding any motherboards these days that still have DB9
headers or connectors.

Of course the big downside to building your own PC is that you have to buy
a copy of Windows if you want to use it, though OEM versions are available
online for a bit less than what the consumer versions cost if you don't or
won't require Microsoft support.

Hope this helps,

   Nick





On 10 August 2013 05:59, Goldtr8 (KD8NNU) gold...@charter.net wrote:

 Gents,

 I wish to get a new computer for the shack and want to have one that is RF
 quiet and has real serial ports.

 I am guessing that others have purchased some PC’s recently and would have
 some suggestions on some that are HAM friendly with a K3.

 I use a K3, KAT500, W2 and HRD for rig control.

 Any thoughts suggestions before I purchase something would be greatly
 appreciated.


 ~73
 Don
 KD8NNU
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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 12kHz audio spike

[Nicklas Johnson]

I decided to build a thing to work around the problem when using
headphones. I did find that turning I/Q on reduced the spike significantly,
but didn't eliminate it entirely.  I found that a pair of .47uF capacitors
and a 3mH choke did a nice job of reducing the noise over 6kHz though:

http://i.imgur.com/bAiquCc.png

I'd never built a pi-network before, so this was a decent learning exercise
too.  The reality matched up with the math quite well, I'm pleased to say.
 The spur at 12kHz went from about -59dB to -78dB, almost exactly 18dB (as
before, I'm also adding a lot of gain in the capture device to emphasize
the problem; in practice, the spur isn't anywhere near that loud).

It takes the spur at 12kHz down about 18dB, which is enough to get it well
under the noise threshold for normal listening conditions for my ears.  Of
course it would be much better if the 12kHz spur weren't there in the first
place so it wasn't necessary to try to filter it out after the fact.

One thing that's kind of interesting in the spectrum analysis is that
filtering above 6kHz looks like it emphasized the spectrum below 6kHz.  I
suspect that this is not actually what happened (given that the filter is
all passive components), but rather the filtering either slightly changed
the results of the FFT calculations, or possibly the responsiveness of the
audio capture device.  I'd be interested to hear others' theories on this
unexpected result, too.

   Nick



On 7 August 2013 10:25, David Gilbert xda...@cis-broadband.com wrote:


 I didn't say that RF current in a ground plane wasn't well-behaved,
 whatever that means.  I said that it wasn't uniform, as in uniform density.
  It's not.

 73,
 Dave   AB7E



 On 8/7/2013 2:10 AM, Jim Brown wrote:

 On 8/6/2013 8:49 PM, David Gilbert wrote:

 Currents most certainly do not flow uniformly in ground planes, and
 coupling effects can be real whenever significant gain is involved.


 Actually, what happens is that a trace above an ideal ground plane (the
 ground layer)  forms a transmission line, with the return current flowing
 in the ground plane directly below he trace -- UNLESS the ground plane
 below the trace is broken, for example, by the circuit board layout guy
 realizing he left something off the main layer, and putting on the ground
 layer instead. In which case there is no longer a transmission line, the
 return current flows wherever it can. inductance is added to the path,
 which causes magnetic coupling to other circuits, and it forms an antenna,
 so it can radiate, into other circuitry, or outside the box, or both.

 So the RF current in a ground plane is VERY well behaved and predictable.
 The problems arise when the PC layout guy doesn't understand the function
 of the ground plane, and that it CANNOT be interrupted without
 consequences. Like zipper noise on tuning in the K3.

 73, Jim K9YC
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[Elecraft] KX3 display/setting retention bug

[Nicklas Johnson]

This was observed with KX3 Firmware 1.50.

I found what I think may be a bug in the display code or the retention of
the last-used data mode bandwidth for the KX3.

Steps to reproduce:

1. Tap DATA twice.
2. Select DATA A using [B].
3. Widen the passband all the way to 4.0 with PBT I
4. Select any other mode with [B], like AFSK A. Passband display changes as
expected.
5. Re-select DATA A.
Result: The PBT indicator goes back to showing the full bandwidth, but the
bandwidth in use is actually reduced to 0.50.  Turning the PBT knob in
either direction updates the display to what it should be showing.

​Expected result: re-selecting DATA A either uses the same bandwidth
setting it had the last time it was selected OR the display updates to show
that the bandwidth has been reduced to 0.50.​

I think if I had my druthers, I'd like to see it go back to using whatever
bandwidth I'd last selected with the mode rather than reverting it to the
default.

​   Nick​


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 12kHz audio spike

[Nicklas Johnson]

Lyle: I gave setting RX ISO to ON a try, and though I can see some small
changes in the spectrum analyzer, it doesn't seem to change the 12 kHz
spike or its harmonics.

Granted, my hearing is abnormally good for my age.  I can still hear up to
about 18 kHz, which is pretty unusual for an almost-38-year-old I'm told.
 Flyback transformers in old TVs and monitors are the worst thing in the
world.

I wonder if connecting a 100uF capacitor across the headphone output would
be about right to attenuate noise above 5kHz.

Johnny: I did this test by routing the headphone output of the KX3 into the
input of a Roland Quad Capture, which is effectively just a really
high-quality sound card, turned the gain on the Quad Capture up about
halfway, and sampled the audio at 192kHz, 32-bit mono into Sound Forge.
 Then I ran Sound Forge's spectrum analysis tool on the captured audio.
 You could probably perform a similar test using an ordinary sound card to
see whether you have the spike at 12kHz, but you might not see the ones at
24, 36, and 48kHz if your sound card won't sample above 48000 Hz or won't
provide enough gain.  Free tools like Audacity also provide spectrum
analysis if you don't already have something like Sound Forge.

Thanks for the input; it's nice to know at least that I'm not crazy ;-)

73,

   Nick



On 6 August 2013 05:51, Lyle Johnson kk7p4...@gmail.com wrote:

 This is most likely power supply ripple from the variable loading of the
 DSP, which occurs at a 12 kHz rate.

 You may be able to reduce it by setting MENU:RX ISO to ON.  This increases
 average current in part by preventing the DSP from sleeping between
 tasks, thus smoothing out some of the power supply load.

 It is always best to use headphones or external speakers that have limited
 response above 5 kHz with the KX3.  The radio will not pass audio
 information above this frequency, so the only thing wide response
 headphones or speakers will provide is additional noise.  This is
 particularly true if your ears haven't aged to provide some low-pass
 function for you :-)

 73,

 Lyle KK7P

  While doing some tests tonight to compare the white noise of my Icom
 IC-7000 to the white noise of the KX3, both having the AF gain turned all
 the way down, I noticed...

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[Elecraft] KX3 12kHz audio spike

[Nicklas Johnson]

While doing some tests tonight to compare the white noise of my Icom
IC-7000 to the white noise of the KX3, both having the AF gain turned all
the way down, I noticed something a little unusual in the KX3's spectrum:

http://imgur.com/0QF9vXh

There is quite a spike of noise at 12kHz (well, relative to everything else
around it anyway), with harmonics at 24, 36, and 48 kHz.  The latter three
of course are inaudible to humans.  I found that even without the
considerable amplification that I was using to get the levels high enough
to analyze, I was able to hear the 12kHz tone in my headphones with the AF
gain turned up higher than 30 or so.

The sound is present even with everything else disconnected from the unit,
and it begins immediately after it is powered up, before it begins
receiving.

I could see it possibly giving someone fatigue or a headache after a while,
even if not consciously aware of it.

Has anyone else experienced this, or does anyone have the test equipment to
see whether this is present for others and not just me?

   Nick​
​


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[Elecraft] KX3 review

[Nicklas Johnson]

FWIW, my long-winded and slightly-meandering KX3 review:

http://n6ol.us/blog/2013/08/the-elecraft-kx3.html

I wanted to get it all written down while it was still fresh in my head, so
it comes after only a week of playing with it.  Hopefully there's some
helpful information / hints / suggestions to be found in there for those
considering owning one.

C
​arry on!

   Nick​


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Re: [Elecraft] KX3 - KXBC3 NiMH Charger

[Nicklas Johnson]

By coincidence, I am also in the market for such an adapter, and found
something that should work at Jameco:

http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_2151208_-1

This is a 3A wall wart, so there should be enough current there to
transmit and charge at the same time if you wanted. If the specifications
are complete, this won't be a super-efficient power supply when nothing is
connected to it (ie, they post no CEC Level), so you'd want to unplug it
when not in use.  If you want something with a higher efficiency guarantee,
they have some slimline adapters available with a variety of current
options.  The main thing looks like getting something with a 2.1x5.5
center-positive connector unless I'm mistaken.

Of course being switching power supplies means they could be a little noisy
with a lot of nasty harmonics if they're cheaply made.  I'm not able to
comment on their quality because I haven't tested one out yet.


   Nick / N6OL




On 30 July 2013 09:32, Doug Ellmore Sr. d...@ellmore.net wrote:

 I got back from my Aruba vacation Friday.  It included QRPing at the
 beach with the KX3 and buddipole.  Info at www.ellmore.net/na1dx .  It
 was a blast!

 One of the things I did to charge my 8xEneloop XX 2500mAh batteries
 was to charge a 7Ah Battery with a small Sears 1 Ah battery charger
 and then use that battery to top off the Eneloops at night.  I also
 operated with teh 7Ah battery and went through the aiport fine.

 That worked ok, but it would be nice if I had a small AC/DC power plug
 in to plug into the KX3 while sleeping or away from operating.  I
 guess I could have used the rental car lighter, but didn't have an
 adapter.

 Maybe someone could source an appropriate SMALL AC/DC adapter for
 working with the built in charger.

 73 and good DX,

 Doug, P40DE, NA1DX
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[Elecraft] New guy + two KX3 tips

[Nicklas Johnson]

Hi all,

Built my KX3 yesterday, and I have to say I'm really impressed.  Well done,
Elecraft.  The clarity of the build instructions, the photographs, and all
the tips and caveats for each step were very helpful.  I think I'll be even
more impressed once I can find a BNC-SO239 adapter so I can put an antenna
on it ;-)

The main thing that I ran into trouble with was sorting out the lengths of
the tiny screws. which brings me to my first tip for the next guy who
runs into the same thing: if you get to the step where you're trying to
attach the screws and bolts to Q6 and Q7 (page 28 in my book), and you find
the screws that you have aren't long enough to catch the bolts, or they
just barely do, then you've put the wrong screws in your heat sink.  The
short ones you're trying to put in for Q6 and Q7 belong to your heat sink,
and the long ones you've put in your heat sink belong to Q6 and Q7.

(Incidentally, the only thing I'd suggest doing differently for this kit
would be segregating parts by type; e.g., all the #2 lock washers in one
packet, the #4s in another, etc.; that way, someone like me who has trouble
discerning lengths of screws can start out by putting the parts in
individual trays (I think those weekly pill reminder things might work
well for this) and then have a little more certainty that a part is the
right one.  It's a very minor nit, and one that obviously didn't stop me.)

My other tip is more of a temporary, non-technical one: our Walgreens
(Northern California) had four-packs of 2400mAh Duracell NiMH batteries on
sale today for $11.  You can tell the 2400's vs the 2000's by the AA
being written in green lettering instead of orange.  Funnily, they're also
selling 2000's for $11, so it pays to look through what they have on the
shelf.  If you need a fresh set of batteries...

I
​'m being long-winded though, so I'll just say I'm pretty stoked to have a
new toy to play with for now.

73,

   Nick / N6OL​


-- 
*N6OL*
Saying something doesn't make it true.  Belief in something doesn't make it
real. And if you have to lie to support a position, that position is not
worth supporting.
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