[Elecraft] K1 Full (Unbuilt) Kit For Sale

2020-04-06 Thread STEEEELE
Probably a long shot but does anyone have an unbuilt Elecraft K1 Kit
squirreled away that they are willing to sell?

Thanks for your time

Josh



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[Elecraft] K1 sold

2020-02-07 Thread Denis Dimick
Thanks for everyone that has contacted me about my K1, it has been sold.

73's
KC6AUP
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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 for sale - Loaded

2020-02-05 Thread Denis Dimick
I have a barely used Elecraft K1 for sale (S/N-01351), bought the kit back
in 2002, I just needed something to keep me busy, so I bought it and built
it.I love the receiver on this baby, and used it for a lot of weak signal
stuff, I have replaced it with a K3, so I'm looking at selling it.
It's a 4 band unit, not a 2x2 swap, 15,20,30, and 40 meters, has the Noise
Blanker, ATU-4-bands, back light LCD, and the KC6AUP 3d printed folding
stand installed. Basically everything except the internal battery kit.
I have the original assembly manual with my build notes in it, with my
adjustment notes made during the build, as well as the other manuals that
came with the kit.

I'm asking $500, and will take Paypal, we can work out how you want to do
the shipping.

73's
Denis
KC6AUP

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[Elecraft] FS: Elecraft K1

2019-12-11 Thread H.R. Freeman
For Sale: Elecraft K1-4 (SN01552). Radio has 4 bands (40/30/20/15). Also 
includes the ATU, NB, manuals and power chord. The radio is in good 
shape and 100 % working. Pictures available on request.


$425 shipped priority mail to US Only

Thanks Harry NK9R

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Stand 3d Printer

2019-10-07 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi Dennis,

excellent job. Many thanks for sharing it.
Can you advise which direction on the bed is recommended in slicer please?
I am asking as the orientation on the printing plate will be most important
for supports...

Thanks,
Petr




-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Stand 3d Printer

2019-10-05 Thread EricJ
Very nice. I went a less imaginative direction. A replica of the 
original K1 stand.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/1WMjCbeJmLmmJRKf8
https://photos.app.goo.gl/y7FnAUmqgtPQy5ft6

Didn't think it was appropriate to post on Thingiverse as it's a copy of 
a proprietary design. I did it as a learning exercise the first week or 
so I had the printer. I already have an original one (hi).


Eric KE6US

On 10/5/2019 2:31 PM, Denis Dimick wrote:

Since Elecraft hasn't had stock on the K1 stand for ages, N3XKB and myself,
designed one that can be 3d Printed. I posted it on Thingiverse for anyone
that would like to print one out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843950

73's
Denis
KC6AUP


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[Elecraft] K1 Stand 3d Printer

2019-10-05 Thread Denis Dimick
Since Elecraft hasn't had stock on the K1 stand for ages, N3XKB and myself,
designed one that can be 3d Printed. I posted it on Thingiverse for anyone
that would like to print one out.
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3843950

73's
Denis
KC6AUP


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 20m power out

2019-09-10 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lloyd,

The first thing you should do is adjust the Pre-mixer and RF Bandpass 
filters for the 20 meter band.  See the K1 manual for the adjustment 
procedure.


If that does not bring the output up to at least 5 watts (when using a 
13.8 volt or greater power source), then suspect the 22MHz crystal used 
for the 20 meter mixer.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/9/2019 9:14 PM, LL wrote:

I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown. It puts out 6W on 40m, but
only one watt on 20m, measured with a WM-2 and a dummy load... and the
display on the rig. Internal ATU installed. 13+V supply.

What to check first? etc.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 20m power out

2019-09-09 Thread Mike Morrow


> I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown. 
> It puts out 6W on 40m, but only one watt on 20m,
> measured with a WM-2...

The most likely problem is misalignment of band 2 of the KFL1-2.  Perform a 
realignment of the 20m portion per the K1 manual.

Don't waste too much time optimizing the settings of the KFL1-2 for maximum 
receiver sensitivity.  The same inductances must be adjusted for maximum 
transmitter power output, and those adjustments are far far more critical.

OR...for a direct simple shortcut, put the K1 on 20m in TUNE mode and peak L3, 
L4, L7, and L8 for maximum power output.

Mike / KK5F
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[Elecraft] K1 20m power out

2019-09-09 Thread LL
I recently bought a two-band K1, s/n unknown. It puts out 6W on 40m, but
only one watt on 20m, measured with a WM-2 and a dummy load... and the
display on the rig. Internal ATU installed. 13+V supply.

What to check first? etc.
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
Thanks, Don!  73, KQ7TJ



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
Thank you!

On Tue, Aug 27, 2019, 4:28 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place.  Just
> put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original
> manual.  The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 8/27/2019 6:59 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> > In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or
> can
> > I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

You can reach the trimmer with the band board and tuner in place.  Just 
put the OFS jumper in place and follow the instructions in your original 
manual.  The newer K1s have a switch on the bottom instead of the OFS pads.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/27/2019 6:59 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:

In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or can
I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?

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[Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
In order to reset my TX Offset do I need to remove the Antenna Tuner, or can
I leave it in place and just install a jumper between the OFS pads?



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[Elecraft] K1 Transmit Offset Adjustment

2019-08-27 Thread Tom Johnson
I just redid my Transmitter Alignment on my K1, using a wattmeter, which I
didn't have when I originally built it.  I have removed the Antenna Tuner -
now on to redoing my TX Offset - to do that do I leave the Antenna Tuner off
and proceed, or do I reinstall the Antenna Tuner and then proceed with the
TX Offset Alignment?  (As described on page 47 of the manual - the part
where you install a jumper between the OFS pads, turn the AGC OFF, set power
to 1.o watts and Adjust C13.)

 

Any help is much appreciated - I've determined I'm not transmitting on the
same frequency on which I'm receiving and am thus attempting to get the TX
Offset properly set.

 

Tom 

KQ7TJ

 

"I am an old man and have known a great many troubles, but most of them
never happened."

- Mark Twain

 

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[Elecraft] K1 40m/20m for sale

2019-08-07 Thread Jim Ragsdale
I have K1 s/n 3502 for sale. It has 40M and 20M on board and the KAT1 
antenna tuner. From the pictures you can see that I have added a 
homebrewed tilt stand that also doubles as a convenient carrying handle. 
Included will be a Texas Instrument 12V, 2A power supply. $375 shipped 
to CONUS. Paypal preferred, but will be flexible.


See pictures at http://w5la.net/images/K1.jpg and see it in action at 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=15XeF4mIScw=6s.


If interested, contact me via email to j...@w5la.net.

73, Jim W5LA

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[Elecraft] K1 Filter Board

2019-07-19 Thread Andrew Herbaugh
I am in search of a 2 band or 4 band filter board for a K1.  Any help would be 
appreciated, you may contact me by e-mail at aaherb...@hotmail.com.

Andy
NR8N
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 retrofit backlight mod

2019-07-06 Thread David Gilbert


Before a backlight kit was ever available for the K1 from Elecraft, I 
built my own and was able to position it at the side of the LCD without 
tearing everything apart.  I used a single white LED, and if I remember 
correctly I filed the face of the LED plastic body to make the light 
scatter better.  I used a FET connected as a series current limiter to 
give a few milliamps of current, and picked up a switched 12 volt from 
somewhere on the circuit board.  It works fine.


Dave   AB7E



On 7/6/2019 3:53 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Lloyd,

The kit for built K1s included the LCD p/n E600015, for unbuilt K1s it 
was not included.


In order to install the backlight the LCD must be removed and will 
most likely be destroyed in the process.  The easiest way to remove it 
is to cut the pins close to the LCD body and then remove them one at a 
time.


Before doing anything, check with the Elecraft sales office to be 
certain both the p/n E600015 and the backlight kit for an unbuilt K1 
are available.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2019 4:34 PM, LL wrote:
The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt 
kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, 
somewhere...?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 retrofit backlight mod

2019-07-06 Thread Jessie Oberreuter



 If not, you might still be able to source the relevant parts.  I made 
mine before the official kit existed by ordering parts from Mouser.  Mine 
has a red backlight instead of the Elecraft green :).  -kb7psg


On Sat, 6 Jul 2019, Don Wilhelm wrote:


Lloyd,

The kit for built K1s included the LCD p/n E600015, for unbuilt K1s it was 
not included.


In order to install the backlight the LCD must be removed and will most 
likely be destroyed in the process.  The easiest way to remove it is to cut 
the pins close to the LCD body and then remove them one at a time.


Before doing anything, check with the Elecraft sales office to be certain 
both the p/n E600015 and the backlight kit for an unbuilt K1 are available.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2019 4:34 PM, LL wrote:

The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, somewhere...?

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 retrofit backlight mod

2019-07-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lloyd,

The kit for built K1s included the LCD p/n E600015, for unbuilt K1s it 
was not included.


In order to install the backlight the LCD must be removed and will most 
likely be destroyed in the process.  The easiest way to remove it is to 
cut the pins close to the LCD body and then remove them one at a time.


Before doing anything, check with the Elecraft sales office to be 
certain both the p/n E600015 and the backlight kit for an unbuilt K1 are 
available.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/6/2019 4:34 PM, LL wrote:

The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, somewhere...?

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[Elecraft] K1 retrofit backlight mod

2019-07-06 Thread LL
The backlight mod on the Elecraft site says that it's for unbuilt kits. Can
it be added to a built kit? If not, is there a mod for that, somewhere...?
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Intermittent Frequency Instability

2019-07-06 Thread Don Wilhelm

Chris,

First check the 10 turn VFO pot and its connections on the front panel 
board.  If the pot itself is the older one with a blue plastic shaft 
(remove the knob to check), replace it with the newer metal shaft pot.


If that is not the problem, turn to sheet 1 of the RF Board schematic. 
Reflow the soldering for all the components in the VFO area.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/5/2019 7:01 PM, Christopher Bowne wrote:

My 40 and 20 meter K1 has developed intermittent frequency instability and 
sometimes complete loss of ability to tune (frequency display jumps and stays 
on 68.0 nominal on 40 and 63.0 nominal on 20). Lightly “mechanically agitating” 
the circuit board just behind the front panel will bring it back into stable 
operation, but any sort of movement (I run it QRP mobile in a Tacoma 4x4) will 
throw it out of whack again.  Three modes - normal stable, squiggly unstable, 
and locked at nominal 68 or 63 above 7.0 or 14.0 as noted above.  Seems like a 
bad solder joint or solder whisker somewhere.  Any suggestions on where to 
look?  K1 S/N 0291.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Intermittent Frequency Instability

2019-07-05 Thread Bert

Hi Chris,

Instead of spending time troubleshooting I would start with re-soldering
the Front Panel Board and connections. There are not that many
components so it shouldn't take that long. I had an intermittent
problem on my K1 and re-soldered the whole RF Board. Not very
sophisticated but it works.

Good luck!

Bert VE3NR




On 7/5/2019 7:01 PM, Christopher Bowne wrote:

My 40 and 20 meter K1 has developed intermittent frequency instability and 
sometimes complete loss of ability to tune (frequency display jumps and stays 
on 68.0 nominal on 40 and 63.0 nominal on 20). Lightly “mechanically agitating” 
the circuit board just behind the front panel will bring it back into stable 
operation, but any sort of movement (I run it QRP mobile in a Tacoma 4x4) will 
throw it out of whack again.  Three modes - normal stable, squiggly unstable, 
and locked at nominal 68 or 63 above 7.0 or 14.0 as noted above.  Seems like a 
bad solder joint or solder whisker somewhere.  Any suggestions on where to 
look?  K1 S/N 0291.

Chris, AJ1G Stonington CT
  from my iPhone
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[Elecraft] K1 Intermittent Frequency Instability

2019-07-05 Thread Christopher Bowne
My 40 and 20 meter K1 has developed intermittent frequency instability and 
sometimes complete loss of ability to tune (frequency display jumps and stays 
on 68.0 nominal on 40 and 63.0 nominal on 20). Lightly “mechanically agitating” 
the circuit board just behind the front panel will bring it back into stable 
operation, but any sort of movement (I run it QRP mobile in a Tacoma 4x4) will 
throw it out of whack again.  Three modes - normal stable, squiggly unstable, 
and locked at nominal 68 or 63 above 7.0 or 14.0 as noted above.  Seems like a 
bad solder joint or solder whisker somewhere.  Any suggestions on where to 
look?  K1 S/N 0291.

Chris, AJ1G Stonington CT
 from my iPhone
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 4-band board wanted

2019-07-01 Thread LL
INCREDIBLE RESULT!!!

I called Elecraft, and a few hours later, they called back: they found ONE
two-band board, and they're kitting it up with 20 and 80 for me. I'll have
to swap the boards to change, but I'll have a four-band K1.

EXTREMELY satisfied customer, still.

On Mon, Jul 1, 2019, 9:35 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Lloyd,
>
> Elecraft does still have some band kits for the 2 band board.  Order the
> kit for the band you wish to switch to.
> There are no new 2 band boards available from Elecraft.
>
> Yes, if you can find another 2 band board, you can change the band
> boards easily.  The K1 will remember the OPF offsets for up to 6 bands.
> You only need to change the board and set the "b1" and "b2" menu
> parameters to match the bands of the boards in use.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 7/1/2019 9:25 AM, LL wrote:
> > I'm acquiring a K1 with ATU, 30 and 40. Really would love to have 20 and
> 80.
> >
> > If nothing else, I might be interested in seeing if it's possible to
> rework
> > the existing board for 20, instead of 30.
> >
> > Is it possible to have four bands on two boards - that is, not on a
> > four-band board?
> > might it be possible to swap them out to switch bands, if needed, and
> only
> > two-band boards are available?
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 4-band board wanted

2019-07-01 Thread Don Wilhelm

Lloyd,

Elecraft does still have some band kits for the 2 band board.  Order the 
kit for the band you wish to switch to.

There are no new 2 band boards available from Elecraft.

Yes, if you can find another 2 band board, you can change the band 
boards easily.  The K1 will remember the OPF offsets for up to 6 bands. 
You only need to change the board and set the "b1" and "b2" menu 
parameters to match the bands of the boards in use.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/1/2019 9:25 AM, LL wrote:

I'm acquiring a K1 with ATU, 30 and 40. Really would love to have 20 and 80.

If nothing else, I might be interested in seeing if it's possible to rework
the existing board for 20, instead of 30.

Is it possible to have four bands on two boards - that is, not on a
four-band board?
might it be possible to swap them out to switch bands, if needed, and only
two-band boards are available?

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[Elecraft] K1 4-band board wanted

2019-07-01 Thread LL
I'm acquiring a K1 with ATU, 30 and 40. Really would love to have 20 and 80.

If nothing else, I might be interested in seeing if it's possible to rework
the existing board for 20, instead of 30.

Is it possible to have four bands on two boards - that is, not on a
four-band board?
might it be possible to swap them out to switch bands, if needed, and only
two-band boards are available?

Thanks.
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[Elecraft] K1 and AX1

2019-06-12 Thread Robert Hopkins
I'm usually just an avid reader of this listserve, but lately the
conversations have been about products that have really enhanced my
hamming experience over the years.  I got the K1 about 19 years ago,
and the AX1 is my most recent toy from Elecraft Land.  I have many
toys from that land, so a few weeks ago  I was taking my son to have
his 12 mile run in a park here in NJ, and I thought I'd sit at a picnic
table and try to make a few contacts.  The K1 was the easiest to
disconnect from my setup, so I grabbed it, a small 12v battery, and
the AX1 for about two hours of playing in the WPX cw contest.  During
that time, I made 28 contacts (of course all were 599) on 20 and 15
running 5 watts.  Many over 1000 miles in distance.  What a rush!  My
only problem was how to connect the radial to the K1 since it has no
easy ground connection.  Solved by connecting the radial to the nut
that holds the antenna connector to the case of the rig.  A great day.

There is serious mojo in both those products,  I would never have
believed that the AX1 would work that well.  Nice to keep learning new
thing, not only by following the list, but getting inspiration and
acting on it as well.  Thanks!

73
bob wb2udc
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

2019-06-10 Thread David Gilbert



Ahh ... very good point, Bob!  I forgot that.

I assume crystals can still be had from somewhere, though.  I wonder if 
Elecraft kept their old stock of them.


I'm copying the list on your reply since it was someone else who needed 
a new board, not me.


73,
Dave   AB7E




On 6/10/2019 11:09 AM, Bob W7AVK wrote:


Dave - To change bands with the K1 boards you also need to change the 
crystal.


Good luck,

73  Bob  W7AVK


On 6/10/2019 10:33 AM, David Gilbert wrote:


Unless I am mistaken (entirely possible),  all of the K1 band filter 
boards were essentially the same except for the coils. I'd bet that 
there are several unused two band K1 filter boards out there ... the 
result of owners upgrading to the four band module. For example, I 
have an extra 40m/20m board left over from when I upgraded my K1, but 
I plan to hang on to mine.


If you can find somebody willing to give theirs up, it shouldn't be 
too difficult to find the coil winding instructions for the bands 
you're interested in.  There was even a guy who used to wind the 
coils for a small fee, and if he's still around he probably still has 
the materials for them.


After all, you don't need a run of boards ... you just need one module.

73,
Dave   AB7E



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

2019-06-10 Thread David Gilbert


Unless I am mistaken (entirely possible),  all of the K1 band filter 
boards were essentially the same except for the coils.  I'd bet that 
there are several unused two band K1 filter boards out there ... the 
result of owners upgrading to the four band module.  For example, I have 
an extra 40m/20m board left over from when I upgraded my K1, but I plan 
to hang on to mine.


If you can find somebody willing to give theirs up, it shouldn't be too 
difficult to find the coil winding instructions for the bands you're 
interested in.  There was even a guy who used to wind the coils for a 
small fee, and if he's still around he probably still has the materials 
for them.


After all, you don't need a run of boards ... you just need one module.

73,
Dave   AB7E



On 6/10/2019 8:57 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft wrote:

Apologies in advance if this has been answered before. I can’t find it in the 
mailing list archives although surely it has come up already.

I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board for my 
40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization, but I’m 
slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts are 
available from Elecraft.

If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently given up 
on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the schematics and BOMs 
are already in the documentation, is there a source for the circuit board 
layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I suppose the board layout 
is copyrighted.

Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
collect the required parts if the boards were available.

Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability stream 
somehow…

Thanks.

Doug, W0UHU.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

2019-06-10 Thread Walter Underwood
> On Jun 10, 2019, at 8:57 AM, Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft 
>  wrote:
> 
> Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
> collect the required parts if the boards were available.

The actual problem is that the parts are no longer available. Wayne sent this 
to the list four days ago.

> On Jun 6, 2019, at 10:56 AM, Wayne Burdick  wrote:
> 
> Correct on both counts. 
> 
> Trust me, as the designer of both the K1 and KX1 I have a soft spot for them 
> and would love to bring them back. But several of the critical parts became 
> impossible to source, and a substantial redesign would be required to work 
> around them.
> 
> The good news: the KX2 is s much more radio, in a smaller package. We had 
> to go through the K1 and KX1 to get to the KX2, and we're not looking back :)
> 
> 73,
> Wayne
> N6KR


wunder
K6WRU
Walter Underwood
CM87wj
http://observer.wunderwood.org/ (my blog)

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

2019-06-10 Thread rich hurd WC3T
Wayne has already addressed this, not too long ago.  They aren't
considering opening the K1 not only because of the circuit board layout
(copyrighted) but also the IP embedded within the microcontroller.

It's dead, Jim.

On Mon, Jun 10, 2019 at 12:21 PM Mike Morrow  wrote:

> What you propose will very likely not be possible.
>
> Elecraft has always been very "outside the norm" for contemporary QRP kit
> makers in NEVER providing PCB trace info for the kits that it sold.  It is
> deliberate company policy.
>
> I could have used such info a number of times after I built an early K1
> some 19 years ago.  The late great Tom/N0SS was a helpful source of
> physical high-quality photos of some of the PCBs that Elecraft made 15
> years ago.
>
> Mike / KK5F
>
> >I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board
> for my 40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization,
> but I’m slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts
> are available from Elecraft.
> >
> >If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently
> given up on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the
> schematics and BOMs are already in the documentation, is there a source for
> the circuit board layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I
> suppose the board layout is copyrighted.
> >
> >Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to
> collect the required parts if the boards were available.
> >
> >Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability
> stream somehow…
> >
> >Thanks.
> >
> >Doug, W0UHU.
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-- 
72,
Rich Hurd / WC3T / DMR: 3142737
Northampton County RACES, EPA-ARRL Public Information Officer for Scouting
Latitude: 40.761621 Longitude: -75.288988  (40°45.68' N 75°17.33' W) Grid:
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

2019-06-10 Thread Mike Morrow
What you propose will very likely not be possible.

Elecraft has always been very "outside the norm" for contemporary QRP kit 
makers in NEVER providing PCB trace info for the kits that it sold.  It is 
deliberate company policy.

I could have used such info a number of times after I built an early K1 some 19 
years ago.  The late great Tom/N0SS was a helpful source of physical 
high-quality photos of some of the PCBs that Elecraft made 15 years ago.

Mike / KK5F

>I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board for 
>my 40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization, but 
>I’m slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts are 
>available from Elecraft.
>
>If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently given up 
>on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the schematics and BOMs 
>are already in the documentation, is there a source for the circuit board 
>layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I suppose the board 
>layout is copyrighted.
>
>Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
>collect the required parts if the boards were available.
>
>Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability 
>stream somehow…
>
>Thanks.
>
>Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] K1 boards open source?

2019-06-10 Thread Douglas Hagerman via Elecraft
Apologies in advance if this has been answered before. I can’t find it in the 
mailing list archives although surely it has come up already.

I have recently realized that I “need” a 30 + 17 meter band filter board for my 
40 + 20 K1. Obviously I have had 15+ years to make this realization, but I’m 
slow. After the recent fire sale, it appears that no more K1 parts are 
available from Elecraft.

If they are no longer selling K1 kits, and have therefore apparently given up 
on the K1 as a profit-making activity, and given that the schematics and BOMs 
are already in the documentation, is there a source for the circuit board 
layouts so that third-party boards could be sourced? I suppose the board layout 
is copyrighted.

Or could Elecraft make a run of bare boards? It should not be too hard to 
collect the required parts if the boards were available.

Seems like there could be a small-volume continuing product availability stream 
somehow…

Thanks.

Doug, W0UHU.
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[Elecraft] K1 -- Anyone want one?

2019-06-09 Thread Rob Follett
I have a K1, SN 111, original owner.  Works fine….

Anyone want to buy it?

Rob — KT7L
r1foll...@gmail.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

2019-06-06 Thread lmarion
The K1 is as remarkable as the K2, for its small rugged box, it’s a power 
house feature packed rig.


Gotta say its been in its case since I got the KX2. Remarkable rig.

Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message- 
From: Lane

Sent: Thursday, June 06, 2019 7:50 PM
To: Fred Jensen
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

Wow, I am really sad about that. After the K2 and a few K3's, I guess
I waited too long thinking parts for the 4 band version would
eventually be found. :(

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 8:58 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:


Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium
in shorter and shorter periods. Rich, NU6T, and I traded radios while
activating Leviathan Peak a number of years ago ... he ran my K2 for
awhile, I played with his K1.  I enjoyed my KX1 for all the years I had
it, it even went through the Panama Canal, but given the choice between
a KX1 and a K1, had I known, I've have gone for the K1.  Just an
incredible little, light, and fun QRP radio.

73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/5/2019 6:33 PM, Byron Servies wrote:
> Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.
>
> 73, Byron N6NUL
>
>by: http://www.qsl.net

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

2019-06-06 Thread Lane
Wow, I am really sad about that. After the K2 and a few K3's, I guess
I waited too long thinking parts for the 4 band version would
eventually be found. :(

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 8:58 PM Fred Jensen  wrote:
>
> Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium
> in shorter and shorter periods. Rich, NU6T, and I traded radios while
> activating Leviathan Peak a number of years ago ... he ran my K2 for
> awhile, I played with his K1.  I enjoyed my KX1 for all the years I had
> it, it even went through the Panama Canal, but given the choice between
> a KX1 and a K1, had I known, I've have gone for the K1.  Just an
> incredible little, light, and fun QRP radio.
>
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
>
> On 6/5/2019 6:33 PM, Byron Servies wrote:
> > Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.
> >
> > 73, Byron N6NUL
> >
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

2019-06-05 Thread Fred Jensen
Yes, sad indeed, but predictable when the parts transmute to unobtainium 
in shorter and shorter periods. Rich, NU6T, and I traded radios while 
activating Leviathan Peak a number of years ago ... he ran my K2 for 
awhile, I played with his K1.  I enjoyed my KX1 for all the years I had 
it, it even went through the Panama Canal, but given the choice between 
a KX1 and a K1, had I known, I've have gone for the K1.  Just an 
incredible little, light, and fun QRP radio.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 6/5/2019 6:33 PM, Byron Servies wrote:

Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.

73, Byron N6NUL




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 extinct?

2019-06-05 Thread Byron Servies
Yes, the K1 was sadly discontinued last year.

73, Byron N6NUL

On Wed, Jun 5, 2019 at 5:48 PM Lane 
wrote:

> Took a look at the new revamped website (or maybe I haven't been on it
> for a while), and noticed there are no K1's listed. Is it true?
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[Elecraft] K1 extinct?

2019-06-05 Thread Lane
Took a look at the new revamped website (or maybe I haven't been on it
for a while), and noticed there are no K1's listed. Is it true?
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[Elecraft] WANTED, Elecraft K1

2019-05-22 Thread Dennis DeAtley
Hello all,

I am looking for a K1. Unbuilt kit or built. Would like to have four bands. I 
have two nice KX1s and would be willing to trade towards the K1, or buy 
outright.

Thx,

Dennis DeAtley
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[Elecraft] [K1][K2] thoughts

2019-05-17 Thread Byron Servies
Hi there!

The K4 looks amazing! It will make a lot of people very happy, though
I think Elecraft missed a trick not offering an optional 40lb lead
base for it.

When the K3s came out, I happily purchased a used K3/500 line and
upgraded them. They are fantastic! I have used other peoples K3 setups
on expeditions for years, and now I have a set for my own. They have
already be wonderful.

But, dang, I love my K1 and K2 (I have the complete"grey line"). They
are the ones I actually want to turn on, and when I do, they are just
so delightful to use. For Christmas, I even bought a new set of
Bioenno batteries and solar panels just for them.

So, yeah, I am very happy that Elecraft keeps pushing forward.  It is
a business; they must.  But I still yearn for a new "hands on ham
radio" kit. Maybe a mini-module, or a T2? Come to think of it, the T1
is the only kit I haven't built ... hmm.

73, Byron N6NUL
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-14 Thread Don Wilhelm

Peter,

After a K1 Reset, nothing needs to be adjusted, but you will have to do 
the menu related settings:

STP, STL, b1 and b2 settings (b3 and b4 if a 4 band board) and CAL OPF.
CAL OPF is not difficult, but does require a signal of known frequency 
on each band - it is just an adjustment of the displayed frequency.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/13/2019 11:45 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don,

perfect. many thanks for few hints.

i will do it step by step.
At first I will check physicaly the parts and soldering around the Q5.
Then after I will try to measure the POWER voltage line (R10) for its
stability.
If needed i can replace both the Q5 and D18.

the only I am worrying a bit about the factory reset if MCU/DAC sampling
issue
as I am not sure what should be re-aligned then after. I read in manual "VFO
calibration etc."
So I hope that it will not be needed...

I will let you know soon.
In any case many thanks Don for your assistance and help.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Petr,

After the reset, you should not have to do VFO calibration, but you will 
need to set the VFO Offset (CAL OPF) in the menu.  That requires only a 
known frequency signal for each band that is installed and button taps.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/13/2019 11:45 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don,

perfect. many thanks for few hints.

i will do it step by step.
At first I will check physicaly the parts and soldering around the Q5.
Then after I will try to measure the POWER voltage line (R10) for its
stability.
If needed i can replace both the Q5 and D18.

the only I am worrying a bit about the factory reset if MCU/DAC sampling
issue
as I am not sure what should be re-aligned then after. I read in manual "VFO
calibration etc."
So I hope that it will not be needed...

I will let you know soon.
In any case many thanks Don for your assistance and help.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-13 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi Don,

perfect. many thanks for few hints.

i will do it step by step.
At first I will check physicaly the parts and soldering around the Q5.
Then after I will try to measure the POWER voltage line (R10) for its
stability.
If needed i can replace both the Q5 and D18.

the only I am worrying a bit about the factory reset if MCU/DAC sampling
issue
as I am not sure what should be re-aligned then after. I read in manual "VFO
calibration etc."
So I hope that it will not be needed...

I will let you know soon.
In any case many thanks Don for your assistance and help.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-13 Thread Don Wilhelm

Petr,

Check the VPOWER signal line to see if there is any DC level change.
If is is a steady DC level, then try changing QW5 and/or D18.

If VPOWER varies, then the MCU or DAC is causing the variation.  In that 
case, I would try a Master Reset (See manual Reset to Factory defaults), 
but first record your menu settings and restore them after the reset.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/13/2019 4:06 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don,

many thanks for kind help and reply.
Unfortunately I don't think its DAC sampling issue...

I checked it happends on any power level (not depending to the power level
setting)
and it happends in my case only on 40m (band 1).
Also I realized that the power variation is sometime 0.5W and sometime 2W...
and even
more sometime its jumping up and sometime jumping down.
What is most strange is that when I am not touching the band switching
button it seems to
be stable > even on lower power (instead of pre-set power) it does not
changes.

I checked our second K1 which is for long time used by my daddy and I did
not realized anything
like that on this radio.

I will try to verify all parts around the Q5 as you suggested.
I will be happy for any other kind of hint or tips...





-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-13 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi Don,

many thanks for kind help and reply.
Unfortunately I don't think its DAC sampling issue...

I checked it happends on any power level (not depending to the power level
setting)
and it happends in my case only on 40m (band 1). 
Also I realized that the power variation is sometime 0.5W and sometime 2W...
and even
more sometime its jumping up and sometime jumping down.
What is most strange is that when I am not touching the band switching
button it seems to
be stable > even on lower power (instead of pre-set power) it does not
changes.

I checked our second K1 which is for long time used by my daddy and I did
not realized anything
like that on this radio.

I will try to verify all parts around the Q5 as you suggested.
I will be happy for any other kind of hint or tips...





-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-11 Thread Don Wilhelm

Petr,

There may be nothing wrong.  The POWER control line originates at the U2 
DAC on the front panel and is applied to Q5 on the RF Board.
You should check all components associated with Q5 to be certain of the 
value and good soldering.


Since the POWER signal line is derived digitally from data out of the 
MCU, it may be that the "problem" is simply one of digital resolution. 
If the real value is in between 2 DAC steps, the POWER output signal can 
vary between the two DAC steps causing the situation that you observed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/10/2019 8:24 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi all,

so all TX part alignment went ok. All resistances, voltages and finaly power
re-peaking is in spec.
Also 5W test seemed ok until I noticed strange behavior > the power
fluctuation on key down as same
as after band switching...
Short vid is here:
https://youtu.be/lpf8GT09wv8

I am dissapointed as we thought to finish all work this evening successfuly.
I have no idea what could be wrong as I replaced K1-3 relays on band module,
checked all coils,
caps, also diodes on RF board... :(

Will be happy for any hints,

Mni thanks in advance.

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-11 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi Bert,

Even I noticed that power jumps sometimes also down... not only up as shown
on vid. It happends on band 1 - 40m in my case, band 2 - 20m seems ok. 

regards,



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-10 Thread Bert

Hi Petr,

I've checked you video and interestingly enough I have the same or 
similar problem with my K1.


Sometimes the power output goes to the full programmed output and pulls 
back 1 watt or so. It doesn't
happen every time I transmit but quite often and I can't figure what's 
wrong.


Looking forward to find a solution for both of us.

73 Bert VE3NR



On 5/10/2019 8:24 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi all,

so all TX part alignment went ok. All resistances, voltages and finaly power
re-peaking is in spec.
Also 5W test seemed ok until I noticed strange behavior > the power
fluctuation on key down as same
as after band switching...
Short vid is here:
https://youtu.be/lpf8GT09wv8

I am dissapointed as we thought to finish all work this evening successfuly.
I have no idea what could be wrong as I replaced K1-3 relays on band module,
checked all coils,
caps, also diodes on RF board... :(

Will be happy for any hints,

Mni thanks in advance.



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-10 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi all,

so all TX part alignment went ok. All resistances, voltages and finaly power
re-peaking is in spec. 
Also 5W test seemed ok until I noticed strange behavior > the power
fluctuation on key down as same
as after band switching...
Short vid is here:
https://youtu.be/lpf8GT09wv8

I am dissapointed as we thought to finish all work this evening successfuly. 
I have no idea what could be wrong as I replaced K1-3 relays on band module,
checked all coils,
caps, also diodes on RF board... :(

Will be happy for any hints,

Mni thanks in advance.



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
--
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-09 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi all,

another work in lab on son’s K1 done. On KFL1-2 the K2,K3 relays replaced,
L11,L12 reworked for correct 15t on cores (0.8uH)... Now its waiting for
band module resistance re-check and re-tweaking TX part this evening. I
wonder if it will be finished successfuly...



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2FmwvDt
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-05-06 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi all,

so another evening spent with K1...

As Don suggested we stepped back and revised the band module for correct
winding and resistance check. I found that all LPF cores are not correct.
L9-L10 with 22t instead of 21t and L11-L12 with 14t instead of 15t for
40/20m band. So I am going to reworking them.

Also we went thru voltage check on RF board and all seems ok according to
alignment manual page.

Finaly we re-checked all diodes for type and polarity as it is most common
issue mentioned in troubleshooting manual pages. OK

Next part - today evening...

73



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LED upgrade

2019-04-29 Thread Denis Dimick
Don,

The kit showed up yesterday, and just wanted to thank you for it.

Denis
KC6AUP


--
There is no future until we settle our past...


On Wed, Apr 24, 2019 at 9:06 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Denis,
>
> Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1?  If so, I
> have one available.  $29.95 plus shipping.
> Please let me know if you want it and I can compute the shipping cost -
> USPS Priority Mail.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/24/2019 10:24 AM, Denis Dimick wrote:
> > I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
> > part with?
> >
> > Denis
> > KC6AUP
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LED upgrade

2019-04-24 Thread Denis Dimick
Yes, that is the one.

My address is is current in the database

Denis
KC6AUP


On Wed, Apr 24, 2019, 09:06 Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Denis,
>
> Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1?  If so, I
> have one available.  $29.95 plus shipping.
> Please let me know if you want it and I can compute the shipping cost -
> USPS Priority Mail.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 4/24/2019 10:24 AM, Denis Dimick wrote:
> > I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
> > part with?
> >
> > Denis
> > KC6AUP
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 LED upgrade

2019-04-24 Thread Don Wilhelm

Denis,

Are you referring to the K1 LCD Backlight Kit for a built K1?  If so, I 
have one available.  $29.95 plus shipping.
Please let me know if you want it and I can compute the shipping cost - 
USPS Priority Mail.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/24/2019 10:24 AM, Denis Dimick wrote:

I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
part with?

Denis
KC6AUP

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[Elecraft] K1 LED upgrade

2019-04-24 Thread Denis Dimick
I was wondering if anyone has a LCD LED upgrade they would be willing to
part with?

Denis
KC6AUP
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-23 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi Don,

yes filter board is not inserted during these tests on page
45-46...(resistance and voltage tests)

Thanks for hints,

Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-21 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Don and Bert,

Thanks for inputs from both. 

All measurement was done without the filter board. 

Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bert,

Multiply the RF Voltages listed for the RF Probe by 2.8 to get the peak 
to peak RF voltages observed with an oscilloscope.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2019 9:13 PM, Bert wrote:

HI Don and Petr,

Thanks for the offer Petr but Don has already been kind enough to send 
me the Rev. D, 2000 K1 Manual. Thanks anyway!


I find it quite difficult sometimes to troubleshoot and follow the 
schematics. Also doing signal tracing in the receiver and
transmitter is quite subjective using only an RF probe. It would be 
better to have some RF values p-p so you could use

a oscilloscope and at the same time see the signal.


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-21 Thread Bert

Don and Petr,

Forgot to mention that measurement was done with filter board plugged 
in. 5.7K


Bert VE3NR



On 4/21/2019 6:26 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Petr,

Do you have the filter board plugged in when you read 5.6k ohms?

Note in the Revision D manual, the filter board is NOT plugged in when 
making the resistance measurements on page 45.


The filter board is not plugged in until you get to page 46.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2019 5:57 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are 
not same

in the different Rev. of K1 manuals.

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000.
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 
says

it should be >100k.
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual 
Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value 
of J7

pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-21 Thread Bert

HI Don and Petr,

Thanks for the offer Petr but Don has already been kind enough to send 
me the Rev. D, 2000 K1 Manual. Thanks anyway!


I find it quite difficult sometimes to troubleshoot and follow the 
schematics. Also doing signal tracing in the receiver and
transmitter is quite subjective using only an RF probe. It would be 
better to have some RF values p-p so you could use

a oscilloscope and at the same time see the signal.

This is an older radio so I don't expect Elecraft to come up with some 
new troubleshooting aids, but the K1 owners can

share experiences and test results.

I've just measured the resistance between J7-pin 6 to ground and it's 5.7K.

Please keep me in the loop. Thanks to both of you. Comments from other 
k! owners are appreciated.


Thanks!

Bert VE3NR





On 4/21/2019 5:57 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are not same
in the different Rev. of K1 manuals.

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000.
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 says
it should be >100k.
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value of J7
pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!

Don can you let me know some hints what it could means in that case please?
The rest values are same in both tables and measured values are also
corresponding to it.

Bert I will send you the proper manual for your K1 (we have same Rev. ) >
Revision D, Dec 1, 2000 by email.
I got it from Don (many thanks Don!!)

Thanks for help in advance.

73 Petr



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-21 Thread Don Wilhelm

Petr,

Do you have the filter board plugged in when you read 5.6k ohms?

Note in the Revision D manual, the filter board is NOT plugged in when 
making the resistance measurements on page 45.


The filter board is not plugged in until you get to page 46.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/21/2019 5:57 PM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are not same
in the different Rev. of K1 manuals.

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000.
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 says
it should be >100k.
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value of J7
pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-21 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi Don and Bert,

as I noticed this evening > troubleshooting nor alignment parts are not same
in the different Rev. of K1 manuals. 

Our sick K1 is also from 2000... RF board Rev. D, 2000 so I am using the
manual Revision D, Dec 1, 2000. 
Unfortunately when I measured the resistances on page 45 (J7, J8 test
points) I found the J7 pin 6 has 5.6kOhms to GND but table on page 45 says
it should be >100k. 
What makes me confusing is that when I opened the later manual Revision F,
January 24, 2002 I found that in the same table on page 45 the value of J7
pin 6 should be 5-7kOhms which souns ok compare to my measured value
5.6kOhms... ?!

Don can you let me know some hints what it could means in that case please?
The rest values are same in both tables and measured values are also
corresponding to it. 

Bert I will send you the proper manual for your K1 (we have same Rev. ) >
Revision D, Dec 1, 2000 by email. 
I got it from Don (many thanks Don!!)

Thanks for help in advance. 

73 Petr



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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

2019-04-17 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Don,

many thanks.
Manual is printed now.
I am going to do it step by step accordingly during coming Easter holiday.
I will report then after...:)

73 Petr



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Bert,

The troubleshooting section is about the same - no problem.

Do not rely on the board Rev level to be the same as the manual level. 
There is no Rev J K1 board.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/16/2019 9:03 PM, Bert wrote:

Hi Don, Petr and all,

I have a similar TX problem that I've been working on for a time. 
Reading your emails I realized

that I'm using a K1 manual Rev. J. 2015.

My K1 is from around 2000, Rev. D, and I'm now asking if the Rev. J of 
the manual is OK to use

as reference and for troubleshooting?


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[Elecraft] K1 manual revisions

2019-04-16 Thread Bert

Hi Don, Petr and all,

I have a similar TX problem that I've been working on for a time. 
Reading your emails I realized

that I'm using a K1 manual Rev. J. 2015.

My K1 is from around 2000, Rev. D, and I'm now asking if the Rev. J of 
the manual is OK to use

as reference and for troubleshooting?

I have been searching for K1 Rev. D manual but can't find it.

Thanks!

Bert VE3NR



On 4/16/2019 10:55 AM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

Petr.

Turn that manual to Appendix E near the back.  And on page 6 of that 
Appendix, you will find Transmitter Signal Tracing.

Set up the K1 as instructed there, and no damage will be done.

Then make the measurements in the order listed.  You will need an RF 
probe.  If you are using an oscilloscope (with a 10X probe), multiply 
the expected values by 2.8 to obtain the expected peak to peak RF 
voltage measurements.


At the FIRST measurement that is significantly less than the expected 
value (expect as much as a 10% variation before saying it is 
significant) you have reached the output of the failing stage.

Correct that stage and move onward to the next failure point.

That is the procedure required to determine why it is not working.

If the final is blown, replace it with the K1PAKIT from Elecraft.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/16/2019 9:17 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Don,

I checked other parts in TX section and it seems to be ok (refer to 
manual

2000 Rev. D). Just removed the 5th turn on secondary winding of T3.

Is there something else strange or danger which I should check in 
order to

avoid smoke during the test or even blowing the final please?

Many thanks mate,

Petr




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73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

2019-04-16 Thread Don Wilhelm

Petr.

Turn that manual to Appendix E near the back.  And on page 6 of that 
Appendix, you will find Transmitter Signal Tracing.

Set up the K1 as instructed there, and no damage will be done.

Then make the measurements in the order listed.  You will need an RF 
probe.  If you are using an oscilloscope (with a 10X probe), multiply 
the expected values by 2.8 to obtain the expected peak to peak RF 
voltage measurements.


At the FIRST measurement that is significantly less than the expected 
value (expect as much as a 10% variation before saying it is 
significant) you have reached the output of the failing stage.

Correct that stage and move onward to the next failure point.

That is the procedure required to determine why it is not working.

If the final is blown, replace it with the K1PAKIT from Elecraft.

73,
Don W3FPR


On 4/16/2019 9:17 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Don,

I checked other parts in TX section and it seems to be ok (refer to manual
2000 Rev. D). Just removed the 5th turn on secondary winding of T3.

Is there something else strange or danger which I should check in order to
avoid smoke during the test or even blowing the final please?

Many thanks mate,

Petr




-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

2019-04-16 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Don,

I checked other parts in TX section and it seems to be ok (refer to manual
2000 Rev. D). Just removed the 5th turn on secondary winding of T3. 

Is there something else strange or danger which I should check in order to
avoid smoke during the test or even blowing the final please?

Many thanks mate,

Petr




-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
MeWe: https://bit.ly/2HGPoDx
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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

2019-04-15 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Don,

many thanks for hints.

I will re-check all cores on RF board as same as on band module...
We got this K1 in "repair needs" state from friend and the receiver sounds
nice at the moment.
So I would like to finish the repairing of TX path which burned to builder
probably during alignment.

I will let you know... at this moment I checked on RF board that T4 is
wounded ok (not nice but correct)
but T3 has more turns on secondary winding side. I will check all others to
be sure there is no more mistakes. I do not know if the final transistor
survived the last action > but we will see.

MNI TNX, 73 Petr  



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Re: [Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

2019-04-15 Thread Don Wilhelm

Petr,

The number of turns on T4 is not likely to make much of a difference, 
but I recommend correcting it just the same.


However, it is an indicator that there may be other toroids in that K1 
with an extra turn on them, so check all of them.


As for the transmit problem, it is only a guess for what may be wrong - 
the best answer if "anything" in the TX chain.


The best way to approach that problem is to turn to the back of the 
manual and do the Transmit Signal Tracing to determine which stage is 
failing.


It sounds like that K1 may have experience a lightning event (the burned 
capacitors are an indicator of that), so you may have multiple failures. 
 Work them one at a time.  Correct each one in turn and re-test after 
each correction.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 4/15/2019 3:44 AM, Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS wrote:

Hi all,

I am trying to repair the son's K1 where the TX seems to be sick. (receiver
sounds hot and quite nice on both bands 40/20m)

I found several C0G caps around the cores on the module board burned as same
as K1 relay so I replaced them all after long time searching them on the
market (EU).

Now I am trying to check step by step according to manual the RF board (RF
2000 Rev.D) and I found that original builder (we did not built it) wound 5
turns of secondary T3 (green wire) instead of 4 described in manual.

Should I remove the turn from T3 or is it possible to adjust the TX even
with that mistake?
I would like to avoid another burns...


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[Elecraft] [K1] TX part sick

2019-04-15 Thread Petr, OK1RP/M0SIS
Hi all,

I am trying to repair the son's K1 where the TX seems to be sick. (receiver
sounds hot and quite nice on both bands 40/20m)

I found several C0G caps around the cores on the module board burned as same
as K1 relay so I replaced them all after long time searching them on the
market (EU). 

Now I am trying to check step by step according to manual the RF board (RF
2000 Rev.D) and I found that original builder (we did not built it) wound 5
turns of secondary T3 (green wire) instead of 4 described in manual. 

Should I remove the turn from T3 or is it possible to adjust the TX even
with that mistake?
I would like to avoid another burns...

Many thanks,



-
73 - Petr, OK1RP 
"Apple & Elecraft freak" 
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
G+:http://goo.gl/w3u2s9
G+: http://goo.gl/gP99xq
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 - Re-build filter board 40/15 to 40/20

2019-03-29 Thread hawley, charles j jr
>From 
>Elecraft.com<https://elecraft.com/products/k1b20_20m-band-module-for-k1-kfl1?variant=60525987275>K1B20_20M
> Band Module   
>7.50<https://elecraft.com/products/k1b20_20m-band-module-for-k1-kfl1?variant=60525987275>

Chuck Hawley
 c-haw...@illinois.edu

 Amateur Radio, KE9UW
 aka Jack, BMW Motorcycles


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Bert 
Sent: Thursday, March 28, 2019 11:25 PM
To: Elecraft Reflector
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 - Re-build filter board 40/15 to 40/20

I recently bought a K1 with a 40/15 filter board and want to
change it to 40/20. Is there a kit available and if so what's
the cost?

Thanks!

Bert VE3NR


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[Elecraft] K1 - Re-build filter board 40/15 to 40/20

2019-03-28 Thread Bert

I recently bought a K1 with a 40/15 filter board and want to
change it to 40/20. Is there a kit available and if so what's
the cost?

Thanks!

Bert VE3NR


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 forward and reverse power indicator

2019-03-26 Thread Frank Krozel
As usual Don thanks.
I just found the ATU manual on line so will review that next.
de KG9H


> On Mar 26, 2019, at 10:11 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Frank,
> 
> An external SWR meter will only show you the antenna SWR which will not 
> change no matter what the ATU does.  If you want to see that for any antenna 
> and band, you can use the ATU CLS setting which effectively bypasses the ATU 
> and shows you the antenna SWR.
> 
> The important thing to the transmitter is the tuned SWR which you can see by 
> setting the ATU menu to rx.x which will give you the SWR at the input of the 
> ATU.
> 
> See the KAT1 manual page 11 for full display capability.
> Or just trust that the ATU will do its job.  The SWR is displayed briefly at 
> the end of a TUNE cycle.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/26/2019 8:38 AM, Frank Krozel wrote:
>> So getting used to my new to me K1.
>> I am lucky to have the ATU internally (and am looking for the NB board!) but 
>> have a question for the folks that have one of these.
>> How do you see your reverse power in the field?  Do you use an external SWR 
>> meter?  is there a way to get some LEDs out that can show you that you have 
>> a 1:1 after the ATU does it’s job?
>> Am I missing something in the set-up.
>> The K1 sounds amazingly like my K2 in CW sound, love the radio.  Mine has 
>> the 4 band module in it!

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 forward and reverse power indicator

2019-03-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Frank,

An external SWR meter will only show you the antenna SWR which will not 
change no matter what the ATU does.  If you want to see that for any 
antenna and band, you can use the ATU CLS setting which effectively 
bypasses the ATU and shows you the antenna SWR.


The important thing to the transmitter is the tuned SWR which you can 
see by setting the ATU menu to rx.x which will give you the SWR at the 
input of the ATU.


See the KAT1 manual page 11 for full display capability.
Or just trust that the ATU will do its job.  The SWR is displayed 
briefly at the end of a TUNE cycle.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/26/2019 8:38 AM, Frank Krozel wrote:

So getting used to my new to me K1.

I am lucky to have the ATU internally (and am looking for the NB board!) but 
have a question for the folks that have one of these.
How do you see your reverse power in the field?  Do you use an external SWR 
meter?  is there a way to get some LEDs out that can show you that you have a 
1:1 after the ATU does it’s job?
Am I missing something in the set-up.

The K1 sounds amazingly like my K2 in CW sound, love the radio.  Mine has the 4 
band module in it!


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[Elecraft] K1 forward and reverse power indicator

2019-03-26 Thread Frank Krozel
So getting used to my new to me K1.

I am lucky to have the ATU internally (and am looking for the NB board!) but 
have a question for the folks that have one of these.
How do you see your reverse power in the field?  Do you use an external SWR 
meter?  is there a way to get some LEDs out that can show you that you have a 
1:1 after the ATU does it’s job?
Am I missing something in the set-up.

The K1 sounds amazingly like my K2 in CW sound, love the radio.  Mine has the 4 
band module in it!

de Frank KG9H

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem - RESOLVED

2019-03-25 Thread Tom Johnson
Thanks, Don Wilhelm, your intuition was correct:  I installed a 120pF
capacitor at C12. When I replaced it with the correct 1200pF capacitor the
frequency display worked! 

73,
Tom
KQ7TJ


Don Wilhelm wrote
> Tom,
> 
> Triple check C11 and C12 to be certain they are both 1200pF and that you 
> did not use the 120pF capacitor for one of them.
> 
> Build yourself an RF Probe.  The schematic for one is shown in the K1 
> Manual Appendix on Troubleshooting.  You can also purchase a kit from 
> Elecraft.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 3/23/2019 10:03 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> 
>> I am awaiting arrival of an RF Probe kit so I can do signal testing to
>> attempt to trace down my problem.  In the meantime I have looked over my
>> board to the point it's invading my dreams, and I do not see any visible
>> problem with the installation of any of the parts, with special attention
>> to: Q9, Q1, R11, R12, L1, C2.
>> 
>> I did see that I had not firmly seated U1, and corrected that:  I was
>> hoping
>> that would do the trick, but it did not - still get the E42 code.
>> 
>> It just seems to me that as everything tested out fine up until the
>> installation of the L1 Toroid and the C2 capacitor (I'm using 68 pF disc
>> for
>> the 80 kHz range), that the issue should be centered there.  I've
>> confirmed
>> the 33 turns on the toroid, and fiddled with the it's placement.  I'm
>> wondering if the winding direction makes a difference in the functioning
>> of
>> L1 - there is no picture of it in the manual, only a reference back to
>> previous toroids, and I have wound it to match them.  I've also confirmed
>> continuity of the windings on L1.
>> 
>> Lastly, I will reveal my testing ignorance here by mentioning my
>> multimeter
>> does measure frequency, but I am not sure if that applies in this case:
>> ie,
>> would that function as an RF Probe if I understood how to use it?
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
Sorry, Mike Morrow!  The referred post was from David L DuPuy, March 04,
2013.  I think you answered him and that's where I saw your name.  I'm
obviously not adept at using the reflector - I just discovered there were a
string of replies to David I didn't read.

73



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
Sorry, Mike!  The referred post was from David L DuPuy, March 04, 2013.  I
think you answered him and that's where I saw your name.  I'm obviously not
adept at using the reflector - I just discovered there were a string of
replies to David I didn't read.

73



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
Sorry, Mike!  I'm obviously not fully cognizant of how the reflector works. 
I thought the original message I was replying to would be included in the
string.  It was back from 2013.



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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

Triple check C11 and C12 to be certain they are both 1200pF and that you 
did not use the 120pF capacitor for one of them.


Build yourself an RF Probe.  The schematic for one is shown in the K1 
Manual Appendix on Troubleshooting.  You can also purchase a kit from 
Elecraft.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/23/2019 10:03 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:

I have exactly Mike Morrow's problem, and wonder if he ever got it resolved.
Mike, if you are still around I'd like to hear what your resolution was.

I am awaiting arrival of an RF Probe kit so I can do signal testing to
attempt to trace down my problem.  In the meantime I have looked over my
board to the point it's invading my dreams, and I do not see any visible
problem with the installation of any of the parts, with special attention
to: Q9, Q1, R11, R12, L1, C2.

I did see that I had not firmly seated U1, and corrected that:  I was hoping
that would do the trick, but it did not - still get the E42 code.

It just seems to me that as everything tested out fine up until the
installation of the L1 Toroid and the C2 capacitor (I'm using 68 pF disc for
the 80 kHz range), that the issue should be centered there.  I've confirmed
the 33 turns on the toroid, and fiddled with the it's placement.  I'm
wondering if the winding direction makes a difference in the functioning of
L1 - there is no picture of it in the manual, only a reference back to
previous toroids, and I have wound it to match them.  I've also confirmed
continuity of the windings on L1.

Lastly, I will reveal my testing ignorance here by mentioning my multimeter
does measure frequency, but I am not sure if that applies in this case: ie,
would that function as an RF Probe if I understood how to use it?


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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Mike Morrow
Tom,

You cite my name in your post, but I have absolutely no idea of what you refer. 
 I built my K1 serial 175 in November 2000 and I experienced NO problems start 
to finish.

Quote the posting to which you refer, including its date.

Mike / KK5F


-Original Message-
>From: Tom Johnson 
>Sent: Mar 23, 2019 9:03 PM
>
>I have exactly Mike Morrow's problem, and wonder if he ever got it resolved. 
>Mike, if you are still around I'd like to hear what your resolution was.
>
>I am awaiting arrival of an RF Probe kit so I can do signal testing to
>attempt to trace down my problem.  In the meantime I have looked over my
>board to the point it's invading my dreams, and I do not see any visible
>problem with the installation of any of the parts, with special attention
>to: Q9, Q1, R11, R12, L1, C2.  
>
>I did see that I had not firmly seated U1, and corrected that:  I was hoping
>that would do the trick, but it did not - still get the E42 code.
>
>It just seems to me that as everything tested out fine up until the
>installation of the L1 Toroid and the C2 capacitor (I'm using 68 pF disc for
>the 80 kHz range), that the issue should be centered there.  I've confirmed
>the 33 turns on the toroid, and fiddled with the it's placement.  I'm
>wondering if the winding direction makes a difference in the functioning of
>L1 - there is no picture of it in the manual, only a reference back to
>previous toroids, and I have wound it to match them.  I've also confirmed
>continuity of the windings on L1.  
>
>Lastly, I will reveal my testing ignorance here by mentioning my multimeter
>does measure frequency, but I am not sure if that applies in this case: ie,
>would that function as an RF Probe if I understood how to use it?
>
>I purchased my K1 18 years ago directly from Eric Schwartz when Elecraft was
>still quite young and I was active in the Santa Cruz County Amateur Radio
>Club. It is great to see how the company has grown and prospered!  It wasn't
>until settling into retirement that I mustered up the courage to tackle
>building this project.  
>
>If anyone has any theories on the K1 VFO failure issue other than those
>already offered, please clue me in.  
>
>73,
>Tom Johnson
>KQ7TJ (formerly KQ6DV)
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 VFO problem

2019-03-23 Thread Tom Johnson
I have exactly Mike Morrow's problem, and wonder if he ever got it resolved. 
Mike, if you are still around I'd like to hear what your resolution was.

I am awaiting arrival of an RF Probe kit so I can do signal testing to
attempt to trace down my problem.  In the meantime I have looked over my
board to the point it's invading my dreams, and I do not see any visible
problem with the installation of any of the parts, with special attention
to: Q9, Q1, R11, R12, L1, C2.  

I did see that I had not firmly seated U1, and corrected that:  I was hoping
that would do the trick, but it did not - still get the E42 code.

It just seems to me that as everything tested out fine up until the
installation of the L1 Toroid and the C2 capacitor (I'm using 68 pF disc for
the 80 kHz range), that the issue should be centered there.  I've confirmed
the 33 turns on the toroid, and fiddled with the it's placement.  I'm
wondering if the winding direction makes a difference in the functioning of
L1 - there is no picture of it in the manual, only a reference back to
previous toroids, and I have wound it to match them.  I've also confirmed
continuity of the windings on L1.  

Lastly, I will reveal my testing ignorance here by mentioning my multimeter
does measure frequency, but I am not sure if that applies in this case: ie,
would that function as an RF Probe if I understood how to use it?

I purchased my K1 18 years ago directly from Eric Schwartz when Elecraft was
still quite young and I was active in the Santa Cruz County Amateur Radio
Club. It is great to see how the company has grown and prospered!  It wasn't
until settling into retirement that I mustered up the courage to tackle
building this project.  

If anyone has any theories on the K1 VFO failure issue other than those
already offered, please clue me in.  

73,
Tom Johnson
KQ7TJ (formerly KQ6DV)






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Re: [Elecraft] K1 RF Board Prep for KAT1

2019-03-20 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

As instructed in the KAT1 manual, refer to page 31 of your K1 manual and 
see if R39 is present.  If not, add it.  In either case, solder C76 
across R39 - one capacitor lead to each resistor lead.


Do the trace cut as shown in the diagram on page 8 - I can't describe it 
better than the pictures.  Install R4 as shown in the diagram.


You can make those RF Board changes at any time - except for removing 
the end of R36 - wait until you install the KAT1 for that part.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/20/2019 4:39 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:

Before I go cutting into the RF Board (Revision D, year 2000) and soldering
resistors and capacitors together, I want to clarify my understanding.

1)  Does "Solder capacitor RF-C76 across RF-R39.." mean that I leave RF-R39
soldered to the board and additionally solder the leads of RF-C76 onto the
leads of RF-R39 on each side?

2) I do CUT the trace the right of "DRV" and install RF-R4 between the
trace's contact points?

3) I'm at this point only through Part I of the RF Board assembly and
alignment - I have already built the 4 Band Filter Board (KFL1-4, Revision
B), and KAT1 Revision C.  I'm assuming I do NOT prep the RF Board and
install the KAT1 board until I've completed the assembly and alignments of
the RF and Filter Boards?


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[Elecraft] K1 RF Board Prep for KAT1

2019-03-20 Thread Tom Johnson
Before I go cutting into the RF Board (Revision D, year 2000) and soldering
resistors and capacitors together, I want to clarify my understanding.  

1)  Does "Solder capacitor RF-C76 across RF-R39.." mean that I leave RF-R39
soldered to the board and additionally solder the leads of RF-C76 onto the
leads of RF-R39 on each side?  

2) I do CUT the trace the right of "DRV" and install RF-R4 between the
trace's contact points?  

3) I'm at this point only through Part I of the RF Board assembly and
alignment - I have already built the 4 Band Filter Board (KFL1-4, Revision
B), and KAT1 Revision C.  I'm assuming I do NOT prep the RF Board and
install the KAT1 board until I've completed the assembly and alignments of
the RF and Filter Boards?

73




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Re: [Elecraft] K1 Power Supply Melt Down

2019-03-14 Thread Bill Johnson
Chokes are not directional.  Check your board for solder bridges and let us 
know what find.   Since the board is mostly discreet parts, start looking at 
the battery connection and work your way into the  circuitry. Is a part 
blackened, or very dark?

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net  on 
behalf of Tom Johnson 
Sent: Thursday, March 14, 2019 8:34:47 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] K1 Power Supply Melt Down

I just completed my K1 RF Board through to the DC Voltage Checks section.  I
plugged into a 12 V Battery Pack and did not get any smoke from the board
when I turned on S1.  But I did not get a voltage reading from pin 15 on P1.
I did get a reading between 3.8 - 4.2 on P1 pin 16.  I went back to trying
to get a reading from P1 pin 15, and then noticed my battery pack (8 1.5 V
AA) was bubbling and melting down - very HOT!

Does anyone have any clues as to what went wrong?  My only guess is if RFC1
(33 uH RF choke) and RFC4 (100 uH RF choke) are directional, I may have them
reversed: I thought like resistors they are not directional.

73



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[Elecraft] K1 Power Supply Melt Down

2019-03-14 Thread Tom Johnson
I just completed my K1 RF Board through to the DC Voltage Checks section.  I
plugged into a 12 V Battery Pack and did not get any smoke from the board
when I turned on S1.  But I did not get a voltage reading from pin 15 on P1. 
I did get a reading between 3.8 - 4.2 on P1 pin 16.  I went back to trying
to get a reading from P1 pin 15, and then noticed my battery pack (8 1.5 V
AA) was bubbling and melting down - very HOT!  

Does anyone have any clues as to what went wrong?  My only guess is if RFC1
(33 uH RF choke) and RFC4 (100 uH RF choke) are directional, I may have them
reversed: I thought like resistors they are not directional.

73



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Re: [Elecraft] K1, U1 Socket

2019-02-26 Thread Tom Johnson
Thank you!

On Tue, Feb 26, 2019, 12:53 PM Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> An 18 pin DIP socket is a generic item.  Use it.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 2/26/2019 3:02 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:
> > I am building a Four Band Module K1.  I got my parts a little mixed up
> and
> > installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module.  The socket that
> came
> > with the 4 Band Module has "18" embossed below the top notch.  The socket
> > from the 2 Band Module likewise has "18" embossed below the notch, but
> also
> > has "A" embossed on the un-notched section.  I'm assuming (hoping) this
> is
> > simply a generic socket and the parts are the same: correct?
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K1, U1 Socket

2019-02-26 Thread Don Wilhelm

Tom,

An 18 pin DIP socket is a generic item.  Use it.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/26/2019 3:02 PM, Tom Johnson wrote:

I am building a Four Band Module K1.  I got my parts a little mixed up and
installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module.  The socket that came
with the 4 Band Module has "18" embossed below the top notch.  The socket
from the 2 Band Module likewise has "18" embossed below the notch, but also
has "A" embossed on the un-notched section.  I'm assuming (hoping) this is
simply a generic socket and the parts are the same: correct?


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[Elecraft] K1, U1 Socket

2019-02-26 Thread Tom Johnson
I am building a Four Band Module K1.  I got my parts a little mixed up and
installed the 18 Pin U1 socket from the 2 Band Module.  The socket that came
with the 4 Band Module has "18" embossed below the top notch.  The socket
from the 2 Band Module likewise has "18" embossed below the notch, but also
has "A" embossed on the un-notched section.  I'm assuming (hoping) this is
simply a generic socket and the parts are the same: correct?

Tom Johnson
KQ7TJ



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[Elecraft] Elecraft K1 4-Band For Sale

2019-02-04 Thread Bill Cotter

Hello,

I am assisting the family of a SK selling their ham radio gear.

The estate has a mint condition Elecraft K1 (sn#01739) with the 
KFL1-4 four-band module (40,30,20,15m) which includes the KAT1 
Antenna Tuner and the NB Noise Blanker. The circuit boards all look 
to be professionally assembled and the transceiver is fully 
operational.


Pictures available on request. $395 OBO plus insured shipping from 
40356.


73 Bill N4LG

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[Elecraft] [K1] keying output mod possible?

2019-01-04 Thread eric norris via Elecraft
Is there a way to simply mod a K1 to provide a keying output for a KXPA100 or 
KPA500 amp?
I built every option into my four-band K1 if that makes a difference.
Thanks and 73 Eric WD6DBM
Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
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Re: [Elecraft] K1 noise blanker assembly question

2019-01-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Pete,

Rev Cr should be the same as Rev C.  If you have the two extra 
capacitors, install them as indicated in the instructions.  The Rev D 
board had thru-holes for those capacitors, but I don't think the Rev D 
board was ever released.  I have never seen one.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2019 10:23 PM, Pete Spotts wrote:

Hi folks,

This may be an trivia question for Super Don. ;-) In the sequence of
Revs to the KBN1 board, does Rev C include Rev Cr, or is Cr its own
board revision? My board is Rev Cr, and toward the end of assembly
there are a couple of capacitors that for Rev C require special
installation. I don't want to misread either the instructions or the
Rev number and muck things up.

Oh yes, Happy New Year to all Elecrafters, whether on this list server
or not!

With best regards,

Pete


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[Elecraft] K1 noise blanker assembly question

2019-01-03 Thread Pete Spotts
Hi folks,

This may be an trivia question for Super Don. ;-) In the sequence of
Revs to the KBN1 board, does Rev C include Rev Cr, or is Cr its own
board revision? My board is Rev Cr, and toward the end of assembly
there are a couple of capacitors that for Rev C require special
installation. I don't want to misread either the instructions or the
Rev number and muck things up.  

Oh yes, Happy New Year to all Elecrafters, whether on this list server
or not!

With best regards,

Pete
-- 

Peter N. Spotts -- NM5PS
ARRL Public Information Coordinator, New Mexico Section
http://www.nm5ps.net
Email: nm...@arrl.net | Skype: pspotts
AMSAT #40612 | CalQRP #67 | G-QRP #13202 | NAQCC #2446 | NEQRP #714
Polar Bear #348 | QCWA #34679 | QRP-ARCI #4174 | SKCC #4853S

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[Elecraft] K1 80m Band Kit

2018-09-11 Thread Al Scanandoah
Does anyone happen to have one of these that could benefit from being re-homed?
73 - Al, K2ZN


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[Elecraft] K1 for sale

2018-08-28 Thread Carl Yaffey
I have a nice K1 for sale. If interested, drop me an email for details.

Carl Yaffey  K8NU
Recording studio.
cyaffeyno_s...@gmail.com 
614 268 6353, Columbus OH
http://www.carl-yaffey.com
http://www.grassahol.com
http://www.bluesswing.com

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Re: [Elecraft] K1 4 bander issue

2018-08-04 Thread Don Wilhelm

Fred,

If 40 meters works, then 30 should also.  They share the same low pass 
filter and the inductors of the bandpass filter and Pre-Mixer bandpass 
filter.


One possibility is that the crystal for 30 meters has gone bad.  You can 
check for that with an oscilloscope or RF Probe at P1 pin 4.  You should 
have at least 200mV peak to peak - which is 70mV RMS as seen on the RF 
probe.


If you have oscillation at P1 pin 4, then the most common cause is that 
30 meters has not been properly aligned.  Initially set C5, C6, CE and 
CF to their mid-point then feed a strong signal into the antenna jack 
with the K1 tuned to the frequency of the signal - you may have to hunt 
around that frequency for the signal.

Then adjust the 30 meter trimmer capacitors to peak that signal.
After peaking in receive, set the OUT parameter to 1.5 watts and peak 
those same trimmers on transmit.  If the power goes over 4 watts, stop 
and reset OUT and then continue.


Once you have peaked 30 meters, you will have to peak the filters on 40 
meters.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/4/2018 8:10 AM, Fred VE3FAL wrote:

I just acquired a K1 4 bander from a ham in Ottawa. It has 40,30,20 and 15 
meters in it. All bands operate and function as they should except for 30 
meters. Have done some searches on this possible issue but nothing solid as of 
yet. Anyone have a starting point where I might look to see or find the issue.

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[Elecraft] K1 4 bander issue

2018-08-04 Thread Fred VE3FAL
I just acquired a K1 4 bander from a ham in Ottawa. It has 40,30,20 and 15 
meters in it. All bands operate and function as they should except for 30 
meters. Have done some searches on this possible issue but nothing solid as of 
yet. Anyone have a starting point where I might look to see or find the issue.

Cheers
Fred
VE3FAL

Sent from my iPhone
Fred VE3FAL/CIW649


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[Elecraft] K1/K2 extra parts

2018-07-30 Thread Michael Raskin
Everything is gone.  Sold in first 5 minutes of posting last night.  I’m still 
getting queries about specific items.  Guy, they’re all gone!  Wish I had more.

Mike, W4UM
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