Re: [h-cost] Cameras for photographing costumes in poor light?
On 5/19/2011 5:02 PM, Aylwen Gardiner-Garden wrote: http://dicksmith.com.au/product/XG6600/olympus-sp-600-ultra-zoom-digital-cameraand Oooh. Bad choice. Superzoom cameras tend to have sensors smaller than your pinky-nail, and small sensors mean lots of noise (speckles) in your pictures. If you want something really flexible, the Olympus EP-L1 or EP-2 are going to cost more than the SP-600 but the sensor is big and the quality in low light is good. The Panasonic G-series is also a good choice (and supports the same lenses), and the Panasonic Lumix DMC-GF1 is very compact. If I wasn't already invested in Nikon equipment, I would seriously consider the Olympus EP-2 or the Panasonic GF1 instead of a digital SLR. If you want small, the Panasonic Lumix DMC-LX5 has a big sensor and a fast lens in a pocket size. The Canon Powershot S95 and the Canon Powershot G12 also both have excellent reputations as pro-quality cameras in pocket-size bodies. I haven't upgraded my pocket camera, but if I was going to it would be one of these models. And, yes, those are the Australian model names and numbers, they're the same as the US names and numbers. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Con
On 1/27/2011 7:09 PM, penn...@costumegallery.com wrote: Last year the topic came up on h-costume about newbies worried that they didn't have a costume to wear. I haven't worn a costume either year and didn't feel bad and no one treated me differently. There were a pair of women who came to the opening day Costume-Con 101 panel that Elaine Mami (who attended nearly every Costume-Con and is chairing 2012), Nora Mai (probably almost 20, chaired the 1998 con), Aurora Celeste (probably the last 5) and I (missed 3 in the last decade) did last year. Their first day they were wearing decorated shirts that said This is my first Costume-Con. It was a very effective way for them to break the ice, and we had a great time with them. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Google's Sewing logo
On 4/1/2010 10:59 PM, Käthe Barrows wrote: Sorry, but the April Fool's Day joke was renaming Google to Topeka. Yeah, I sat that this afternoon and had to wonder. Definitely not in Kansas anymore... Well, if you hadn't been reading the news, last month Topeka, KS renamed itself to Google, KS in hopes of attracting Google's attention and their prototype super-broadband free network project. They obviously got the attention, but I'm wondering if this is a hint they're not in the running for the project. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] A strange question
On 3/24/2010 6:55 PM, Käthe Barrows wrote: I personally don't know how Steampunk picked up the punk part of its name. It was a spin-off of the cyberpunk science fiction movement of the 80's. Several cyberpunk writers decided that, after exploring near-future technological advancement, it might be fun to explore near-past technological advancement. It was kind of a quiet sub-genre that didn't get a lot of love until only a few years ago. And, unlike the common perception of Goths, black clothing is not universally worn by the Steampunk crowd. The running joke is Steampunk is what happens when goths discover brown. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT - Facebook concern
Shea Munroe wrote: Facebook kept this one quiet, just like Yahoo does with their changes. For those of you concerned about your information being distributed without your knowledge: Facebook will automatically index all your info on Google, which allows everyone to view it. To change this option, from your Facebook page, go to Settings -- Privacy Settings -- Search -- then UN-CLICK the box that says 'Allow indexing'. Hope this will help keep our lists from being plished. Facebook may be flawed and evil, but this is incorrect. The Allow Indexing setting does not bypass Facebook's (admittedly confusing and inadequate) privacy controls. It only allows Google to index content that you've already made public. Please note: *content that you've already made public.* If this concerns you, you need to go into the privacy settings, read them, understand them, and set them appropriately, not just believe and spread around a fake internet security chain letter. We now return you to the discussion of costume. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines
On Oct 9, 2009, at 1:33 PM, Julie wrote: There is a current model 830 that has lots of embroidery fancies on it. Can be confusing. At $20 it must be the 30 yr old one G That would be the Artista 830 (I think, I can't remember if the new 830 is in the Artista or Deco line). Knowing how some manufacturers recycle model numbers, it's important to give the full name... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Berina sewing machines
On Oct 8, 2009, at 2:45 PM, cc2010m...@cs.com wrote: Anyone here familiar with the model 830? There is an auction for one here in Wisconsin. Opening bid is $20. The Bernina Record 830 is a tank. I think Karen and Ricky use them as shop machines. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Query on sewing machines
On Oct 6, 2009, at 10:55 PM, Don Eisele wrote: So, the short story is that I'm getting a divorce, and her sewing machines are not going to be accessible to me anymore (or her sewing skills for that matter). Read the articles here: http://www.bovil.com/index.php?option=com_contenttask=blogcategoryid=23Itemid=48 Then make your own decision... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Amazing textile in today's New York Times
On Sep 23, 2009, at 2:19 PM, e...@huskers.unl.edu wrote: I want to know what the hand is like. Is it springy or drapy? We know about its strength, but how is its elasticity? The article compares the elasticity to a bike courier's chain (the ones used to chain up the bike to whatever is nearby). andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] HELP!
Kim Baird wrote: Justine-- To make enlarging easier, you can buy pattern paper that is printed with a grid. Or it may be sold as interfacing, not paper. It is white with a blue grid. There are two versions of this: Quilter's Grid is usually heat-bond non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. True-Grid is no-adhesive non-woven interfacing material with a printed 1 grid. I tend to order True-Grid by the bolt, since I have to adjust almost every pattern. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Madison/Milwaukee (was Re: Laser scissors
Marjorie Wilser wrote: Hi Henry, How far, in hours, is Milwaukee from Madison? I'm thinking of staying there dragging my bff with me for CC28. It's been a decade since I lived there, but I'm thinking 90 minutes optimum, longer if traffic isn't with you. The days at Costume-Con are long. Come to Milwaukee, bring your friend, stay at the hotel, have fun with all the costuming peeps instead of spending over 3 hours a day for 4 days on the road. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] WWI Khaki Drill?
A friend of mine is working on a uniform reproduction and needs khaki cotton drill (about 4 yards). He's got the supplier in the UK who has made it for the British armed forces for the last 150 years or so, but is wondering if there's a supplier here in the states that might be cheaper and quicker. Any suggestions for sources? andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Historic sewing conferences in the US?
Robin Netherton wrote: Pierre Sandy Pettinger wrote: Since Costume Con is held by a different group every year, there is a variability in what classes are offered, and their quality. It all depends on who is running Programming, and who is attending and willing to teach. Different regions bring in different people. CC 28 next year in Milwaukee will be quite different from CC 27 this year - different people, different classes. Speaking of which, I'll be doing a track of classes at CC28 in Milwaukee -- probably the equivalent of a full day of lectures, maybe some panels here and there. (Topics still to be decided, but they'll include some of my usual ones, like the Gothic fitted dress.) ...and I know the chair and the programming head. Think about doing the class you never thought you could get away with, or the class no organizer ever asks for. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC27 historical judge talks about workmanship and historical interpretation
On May 7, 2009, at 2:03 PM, Heather Rose Jones wrote: It's probably bad manners to say this on the list rather than privately, but I'm a bit concerned for what the lurkers might think if this isn't responded to. No, it's really not bad manners. If that had been something I entered, I would be extremely hurt and horrified to see a judge talking about it in this fashion. A hat is stupid simply because you had a bad experience with '50s fashion? An entire historical fashion era makes you gag? I would find it very difficult to trust a judge to be impartial who expresses opinions like this. You say it shouldn't matter, but I'd look for a bit more evidence that the judges control their rendered judgement better than their expressed opinions. There are no judges who don't have any stylistic biases. We need to admit that up front, rather than embrace a myth. A good masquerade director will consider the biases of potential judges and build a panel that provides balance. That said, some of the comments about entries are borderline at best. Like Vegas, what happens in the judging space should stay in the judging space, privy to only the judges, the clerk and the director, unless the entrant (and only the entrant) asks for critique from the judges. The goal is to encourage people to enter by rewarding excellent research and execution, not to scare them away by offering unsolicited criticism. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ikat - Was: Vietnamese loom
Saragrace Knauf wrote: And it even is period in Europe - I am on my way out of town - I'll have to look for the pictures when I get home. Seems I have a picture somewhere of a young boy in it in the 15th or 16th century Europeand of course later in the 18th/19th. I can document it to 9th century (I think, it might be 10th) Japan... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: Does anyone know of an Indian grocery in Palo Alto CA or thereabouts?
Lavolta Press wrote: A relative used to buy my husband and me really great bags of bulk spices, bulk tea, dohkla mixes, etc. at an Indian grocery near where he lived (out of state). He has passed away and well, now we're wondering if there is an Indian grocery in Palo Alto or between there and San Francisco. My husband works in Palo Alto and could shop on the way home (but given the length of his commute does not want to drive further south). We don't know of an Indian grocery in San Francisco and anyway, by the time you get there and park, shopping in the city is not really very convenient. Don't know about Palo Alto or northwards. There's an Indian grocery in Sunnyvale at Lawrence El Camino (just north/west of Lawrence). Bharat Bazaar 3680 /El Camino Real Sunnyvale andy / ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?
Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: Wow, I've never heard of an eyelet plate before!!! I've found a video on in and it looks great! My sewing machine has a pre-programmed eyelet, but it's too small and weak. It seems only Pfaff and Husqvarna have these plates... does Janome have it, too??? I have a 6600P. They were commonly available for older zig-zag machines. I've seen Elna eyelet plates (they're little clamp-on rectangles that cover the feed dogs), and I think for the older Singers. I would kill for the eyelet plate to match my Pfaff 332; it's really sophisticated. The great thing about an eyelet plate is you use an awl to stretch a hole in your fabric, push the hole over the plate, and the eyelet stitching is just there to hold the eyelet open, not to provide structure. It's incredibly sturdy. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?
On Jan 30, 2009, at 3:42 PM, Margo Anderson wrote: I'm thinking of buying a 1950's sewing machine with a buttonholer attachment, the kind that uses templates to make different size buttons. Some of them have templates that make round eyelets, and I'm wondering, has anyone used them for lacing eyelets on period corsets and bodices? An eyelet plate will serve you better. The brick buttonhole foot still only does zig-zag, so you don't get the radial stitching of a true eyelet. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Eyelets with a buttonholer?
Margo Anderson wrote: I tried an eyelet plate and found it nearly impossible to use on large garments like dresses with big skirts, because of having to spin the fabric around it. They didn't want to fit through the (mind blip, whatever the name is for that space between the needle part and the body of the machine) How do you handle that? Besides origami or a long-arm quilting machine? I'm a serious fan of creative rolling, folding and pinning to reduce the bulk into the smallest managable volume. Yes, it makes your reset time between eyelets longer. I'm also a fan of old flat-bed sewing machines built into huge cabinets with large work-spaces. Of course, if appropriate, you could always make eyelet self-tape and stitch it down to the garment to save the big fiddling. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] - sergers
julian wilson wrote: Gentles of the Historic costume List, just for the education of my House, who are still muddling along making medieval garb and other fabric items, using a collection of fully-serviced, secondhand but older [i.e. - no computers] domestic sewing machines, - would any Gentle of the List explain to us [ and other beginners similarly ignorant] what is the difference between a serger and a normal domestic machine; - and what are the advantages of having a serger for use in the making of replica historical fabric items? I have done an internet search - but - due to my online ineptitude, I have no doubt, - have not found any answers we can readily understand. with thanks for your clarifications, Lord Matthew Baker, of the SCA-[UK] You've got some mostly good information from others on the list. A few years back I wrote an introductory article on sergers; it's still up at: http://tinyurl.com/3xpw2a The folks who talk about sergers not being appropriate for historical costume are short-sighted. They are entirely appropriate for early 20th century manufactured clothing recreation. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] early 20th century serger use (was sergers)
Kimiko Small wrote: Would you mind sharing what you know about how sergers were used for the early 20th century garments? I presume they were similar, but not the same as used today, or were they? I have this Edwardian coat I want to work on, but the directions with the pattern is rather scant on fully period techniques. I am still debating in my head how period, or how modern I want to be when working on it. 2-thread overlocking dates back to at least 1890 with a Wilcox Gibbs overlock patent that uses a looper system very familiar to serger owners of today. As to how they were used, the best thing you can do is, if possible, look at extant Edwardian garments. An ex-boyfriend of mine has a fabulous pre-WWI West Point Cadet's Dress Uniform; IIRC 2-thread overlock stitch was used to bind the edges of the pattern pieces to prevent the heavy wool from fraying. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Jazz Color
On Nov 18, 2008, at 1:03 PM, Rickard, Patty wrote: Thanks for your response, Penny. The book sounded pretty specific for jazz being a color, as in 'a jazz colored dress.' I couldn't imagine what that would be. Patty Let us know what book it's from. That may provide a more solid lead. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] sewing machines and button holes
On Nov 10, 2008, at 12:08 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: The newest computer machines will even measure the button for you, and make the hole the correct size. They memorize the size, and sew all the holes the same. Actually I remember something from wy back, maybe in the 70s, a style where you would place your button in the attachment rather than a cam. Not sure if it made allowances for button thickness, though. A thick or domed button needs a bit more than the usual diameter+ buttonhole. I had a Singer Futura II 920 (the last good machine Singer ever made) with a one-step buttonhole system. You attached the buttonhole foot, inserted the button, and flipped a lever to complete the set-up. It did account for button thickness by using an angled stop; thicker buttons would result in a longer buttonhole. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues- interior pillows?
On Oct 3, 2008, at 9:49 AM, Natalie wrote: Andrew T Trembley wrote: snip The Elizabethan corset is a perfect example. It doesn't cinch down the waist much, it just produces a very flat front and the illusion of a smaller waist. For larger women it often includes a little interior support pillow for the breasts to rest upon, reducing the need for compression to provide support. It doesn't have to be really tight to do its job. I confess that my knowledge of period correct corsetry is still rather new, within the last two years or so, but I have not seen reference to this interior pillow before. Do you have some sources you can refer me to? I am a larger woman myself and if this is a more comfortable alternative then compression, I'll be glad to experiment with it. Haven't got doc for it. Wasn't my corset. It was a way of coping with the solid (often wood) busk in the front of an Elizabethan corset. Many of my friends at faire put in a firm twinkie sized support pillow, without which they would not have been able to achieve the right silhouette. Without the pillow they would have had over-mashed breasts, falling breasts, or (with a less-rigid busk to compensate) a non-flat front. None of them would have matched the silhouette represented in portraits and sculpture. If you're doing something for competition, I would worry about documentation. If you're using machine stitching and other modern techniques to make your costume, I wouldn't worry. If it's a cheat, it's a completely invisible cheat. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corsetry issues (was Looking for bad examples)
On Oct 2, 2008, at 4:03 PM, Carmen Beaudry wrote: I have fibromyalgia and arthritis, and I find that my properly fitted corsets are MUCH more comfortable that any bra. I do have days that there's too much pain to wear anything fitted, but on those days I'm usually in bed with a lot of pain medication, not trying to do anything. I think you've hit the nail on the head here. If the corset doesn't fit, it's going to be uncomfortable. On top of that, there are many different styles of corsets and bodices. Someone who would find a wasp-waisted Victorian or Edwardian corset (which, face it, is what inexperienced folks think every corset is) very uncomfortable may be perfectly happy in a simpler Renaissance style. The Elizabethan corset is a perfect example. It doesn't cinch down the waist much, it just produces a very flat front and the illusion of a smaller waist. For larger women it often includes a little interior support pillow for the breasts to rest upon, reducing the need for compression to provide support. It doesn't have to be really tight to do its job. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] FLDS Clothing
On Jul 8, 2008, at 5:35 PM, Kimiko Small wrote: --- On Tue, 7/8/08, monica spence [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: WHY is it that men make the rules of what women wear? Monica Is this a hypothetical question, or a real one? I am not sure. It's one that's probably way outside the scope of this list, at least as it's phrased. Discussing strictures, sumptuary laws and appropriate dress for a period may be appropriate (and necessary to understand how to recreate historical costume properly) and it may be possible to have a dispassionate discussion about the cultural circumstances in which historical costume developed... ...but gross generalization is always inappropriate. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] old pfaff industrial
On Jun 23, 2008, at 6:19 PM, Megan wrote: First thing - try turning the needle around. If it is in backwards (as is common) it could be the problem. I've seen several broken machines where that turned out to be the only problem. ...or sideways; most industrial machines I've used are round-shank needle systems, so it's not difficult to mis-align a needle. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
On May 14, 2008, at 12:23 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: The computer control sounds cool. Earlier I was looking at some bottom of the line machines where you had to get a machine for either fine, medium, or thick yarn--but you could not use all three on the same machine. Are there any machines that you can just adjust to your yarn thickness? Carol K appears to have far greater knowledge on knitting machines than I do, but I can answer this one. Knitting different size yarns by hand requires different size knitting needles. Knitting different size yarns by machine requires different size knitting needles, and this necessitates different needle spacing. The only way to adjust to different size needles would be to replace the whole needle bed, and that's the largest part of the machine. Even the high-end machines have these limitations. It is possible to run thicker yarns on machines designed for thinner yarns if the needles allow, but the needle spacing can still be an issue. One of the tricks is to move alternating needles into the non- working position to create extra space, but you're effectively halving the size of your machine when you do this, and probably wonking up the punch card or computer-controlled patterns. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
On May 14, 2008, at 1:14 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Pity, I thought the miracles of computerization might now allow sliding in a new unit. Still, the computer controls instead of punch cards are good to know about. Alas, this is a question of precision machining, not of computer control. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
On May 14, 2008, at 1:34 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: And here I thought precision machining had improved over the years too. Oh, it has, but that doesn't change the design of a knitting machine bed. A modern knitting machine bed is usually a long chunk of aluminum with small carefully spaced machined channels in which the needles lie. It's a simple and effective design, with very tight tolerances. The practicality of engineering a bed with variable-depth and variable- width channels so hundreds of needles can be replaced with a different number of different-sized needles that require different spacing in the same area is absurd. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Knitting machines
On May 14, 2008, at 1:55 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: But y'know, I love equipment, and I want the latest in knitting machines. They seem to be rather out of fashion. There was a time when everybody had to have a sewing machine and a knitting machine, then they had to have a sewing machine and a serger, now they have to have an embroidery sewing machine. Unfortunately, your impression seems to be about right. Both Passap (the most advanced European manufacturer) and Brother (the biggest Japanese manufacturer) no longer produce knitting machines. I'm not sure if it's that knitting machines don't lend themselves to multi-purpose designs, or if it's that they're pretty much useless without at least basic knowledge of hand-knitting. Then again, it could just be that serious knitting machines are large, too large for apartment-dwellers. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume-Con 26 and Flickr: Spread the word!
The photo workflow office is back in Orange County, and is still working like mad to process the over 20,000 pictures that volunteers shot and turned in. It's going to take a few days for these to get uploaded. But don't wait! There's hope! If you're a Flickr member, and you shot photos at Costume-Con 26, please consider adding your convention sets to the Costume-Con 26 group photo pool. We've already got two members who have added their sets, but we would love to see more. http://www.flickr.com/groups/cc26/ andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] scanning large format items Was:How Many Costume Books
On Apr 30, 2008, at 12:42 PM, Alexandria Doyle wrote: In the last five years are so I've worked in companies that had large format scanners, but the document is fed into the machine, not laid on a flat bed. Most of these are gentle enough with the material being scanned - some of the drawings I've worked with were originally done in the 1950's and are pretty fragile considering the use they have had. So if it's not bound in a book, it could go into the scanner, if it is bound... What you want for something like this is a copy stand and a high- resolution digital camera. Lay the large original on the table. Position the copy stand so the object is completely in frame. Adjust the lights to ensure the document is evenly lit. Shoot. It's just the evolution of film copying. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT-ish Seeking folks regarding the Thursday 4/24 pre-CC26 tour...
I received reservations for the following folks for the CC26 pre-con Chocolate Spirits tour, but haven't received a confirmation message from them: Deborah Cardillo, Martin Harriman Renata O'Connor-Rose, Leah O'Connor, Patrick O'Connor (+2, yes we have room for your +2) I still have some seats on the bus left. Tickets are $35/person, leaving from the San Jose Doubletree at 9:45 AM on Thursday. Convention members, of course, have priority to buy tickets, but if I've got space I'll take other reservations. please send any reservation requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] If you've reserved and haven't received a note from me, it means I never got your reservation; if that's the case (I beg the moderators forgiveness) answer on-list to ensure that your mail isn't being eaten by SPAM filters somewhere. andy Here's the original details: It's about an hour's trip to Berkeley, but it's worth it. Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker is a first-tier chocolate manufacturer, starting with the raw beans and controlling every step in the process of making the best small-batch chocolate in the country. After the tour, we'll take lunch at Café Cacao, right in the Scharffen Berger factory. From lunch we'll continue the short jaunt from Scharffen Berger to St. George Spirits, a cradle of craft-distilling in the US. Located at the northwest end of Naval Air Station Alameda (a site familiar to the fans of Mythbusters) in an old hangar, St. George Spirits is classic Schwartzwald, Germany transplanted to California. Under the St. George name, Jörg, Lance and their crew distill eaux de vie, liqueuers and a superb single-malt whisky. Their recent Absinthe release rocked the spirits world. They're also well-known for distilling the Hangar One series of flavored vodkas. In a partnership with John Scharffenberger, they produce Qi tea liqueurs and Essence of Cacao perfume. Taste carefully. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] ball jointed dolls
On Mar 28, 2008, at 10:31 AM, Leif og Bjarne Drews wrote: Dear Cindy, Thanks a lot! The one i have is a Volks Super Dolfie. A bit of a warning... most of the online doll communities I know of have a pretty high drama quotient. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] OT-ish... Tudor and Elizabethan printing
I need some help (or you can translate this to I'm feeling too lazy to do the research myself right now). I'm looking for two things: • Fonts: anybody know any good renaissance-y fonts? I'm looking for something that is both relatively period-accurate for Tudor and Elizabethan printed books, broadsheets and handbills, and something that the less-than-educated viewer will think Oooh, old! when they see it. Free preferred, but feel free to recommend commercial fonts. OpenType preferred, but feel free to recommend TrueType or PostScript. • Tudor Elizabethan printed things: Books, broadsheets, handbills and signs. Yes, of course, facsimiles preferred, and online sources preferred. At work I've got access to a number of academic online collections, so feel free to recommend restricted services; I might be able to get to them. Andy Trembley ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume-Con 26 FB Tours info
Have you been asking yourself Why should I go to San Jose for Costume-Con? Well, you should go to San Jose because Costume-Con is there. While you're in San Jose, though, the Bay Area beckons with unique opportunities for fun. If you're in to decadent food and beverage, we've definitely got you covered. Come out a day early. Check in to our hotel on Wednesday night, because on Thursday morning (4/24) chocolate awaits! It's about an hour's trip to Berkeley, but it's worth it. Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker is a first-tier chocolate manufacturer, starting with the raw beans and controlling every step in the process of making the best small-batch chocolate in the country. After the tour, we'll take lunch at Café Cacao, right in the Scharffen Berger factory. From lunch we'll continue the short jaunt from Scharffen Berger to St. George Spirits, a cradle of craft-distilling in the US. Located at the northwest end of Naval Air Station Alameda (a site familiar to the fans of Mythbusters) in an old hangar, St. George Spirits is classic Schwartzwald, Germany transplanted to California. Under the St. George name, Jörg, Lance and their crew distill eaux de vie, liqueuers and a superb single-malt whisky. Their recent Absinthe release rocked the spirits world. They're also well-known for distilling the Hangar One series of flavored vodkas. In a partnership with John Scharffenberger, they produce Qi tea liqueurs and Essence of Cacao perfume. Taste carefully. If a chocolate maker and a distiller aren't enough, you'll have to wait until Tuesday (4/29). They're more than enough for any single day. If you stay until Tuesday, you can ensure your California visit is complete. Our Tuesday food beverage tour is wine tasting. Forget Napa and Sonoma, though; they're a long drive and expensive to boot. Much closer to San Jose is the Livermore Valley, home to Lawrence Livermore Labs and the oldest wine-growing region in California. Livermore is still a town of boutique wineries where 5000 cases a year is big production and folks squander their retirement making small amounts of great wine. Bent Creek Winery is a great example of this, run by best friends who retired from the Livermore School district, and wizards with Syrah. Cedar Mountain Winery has been making wine a bit longer, and this pair of retired physicists from Lawrence Livermore Lab are well-known for their award winning Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Finally, it wouldn't be Livermore without someone who retired from the wine business to run a winery, and Thomas Coyne Winery, housed in the oldest standing winery in California, has made a name working with ugly-duckling grapes like Malbec, Petit Verdot and Mourvédre. We'll be stopping at all three, and (like almost every day in almost every tasting room in Livermore) the wine makers will be present. Please, plan to stay the extra days and enjoy the region. As the convention approaches, we'll be working out the logistics of these trips. If you're interested in going on either tour, email [EMAIL PROTECTED] On the web: Costume-Con 26 http://www.cc26.info/ Scharffen Berger Chocolate Makers http://www.scharffenberger.com/ Café Cacao http://www.cafecacao.biz/ St. George Spirits http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/ Hangar One Vodka http://www.hangarone.com/ Bent Creek Winery http://www.bentcreekwinery.com/ Cedar Mountain Winery http://www.wines.com/cedarmountain/cedarmtn.html Thomas Coyne Winery http://thomascoynewinery.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: Ball Jointed Dolls - was [h-cost] danish renaissance costumes.
On Mar 19, 2008, at 2:44 PM, Dawn wrote: Saragrace Knauf wrote: Aren't they the coolest! Wish I could afford one. Cool dress and waistcoat. The look like they would be fun to make costumes for. I don't have one myself, but I know there are some lower-priced models out there, in the $100 or under range. I'd probably spend more than that on fabrics for it obligatory_pimping If you're coming to Costume-Con 26 http://www.cc26.info, we've got some very knowledgeable ball-joint doll (sometimes referred to as resin dolls) folks attending, and there's going to be a ball-joint doll reception in our doll exhibit. /obligatory_pimping Japanese ball-joint dolls (exemplified by the Volks Dollfie lines) are usually very expensive. There are Japanese brands like Obitsu that are more reasonably priced. There are several Korean manufacturers who make dolls that are as well- crafted as the Japanese dolls, and while their design sense is sometimes different, they're often very beautiful too. They're also a lot cheaper. A warning, though: These dolls can be habit-forming. I don't think it's unintentional that one of the largest US retailers of BJDs is named Junky Spot. http://www.junkyspot.com/ andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] semi-OT: getting smoke smell out of fabrics
On Mar 10, 2008, at 6:12 PM, A. Thurman wrote: My mom is quitting smoking and my sister is trying to get the smoke smell out of her clothes and linens (only reason I'm not is because I live too far away!) So far she's tried 2 washes with baking soda-based laundry detergent and drying with a scented dryer sheet, but the stink is still there. The Sharper Image ionic breeze air cleaners are actually surprisingly good on getting out smoke odors if you use them in an enclosed space. Hang your stuff in a closet, plug in the air cleaner, and close the door. Leave it for a week or so. The cleaner produces a small amount of ozone, and that just eats up the smoke smell. Then there's the old theatrical trick; fill a pump-spray bottle full of vodka. Hang the stuff you want to deodorize, and mist lightly with vodka. Repeat daily for a few days. If all else fails, Febreeze. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] It ain't the iron? Was: How do you like your iron? - again - OT
On Feb 6, 2008, at 5:30 PM, Wicked Frau wrote: Okay -C, just have to ask do you really mean the tool has nothing to do with it? When we were young, we made our irons out of adobe. Sure, you moisten the fabric you're pressing and you'll get mud all over it, but they were real, and we liked it! andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
On Feb 5, 2008, at 3:47 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote: I just dropped my Rowenta on my hard tile floor for the fifth or sixth time, and it finally started to leak. Wha! I just looked at Consumer Reports - their last iron review was in 2006. (I wrote them and asked them to do another soon.) I also contacted Threads magazine since most of their recent reviews are on more expensive ironing systems. I've got the Rowenta SuperPress 055 (external boiler) but it's a few years old. That said, I can heartily recommend an iron with an external boiler. No spitting, no lime, no staining ***ever*** because the water is below the iron and it's just steam being piped to it. Also, you can steam with a cold sole-plate. Costco Online has the EuroPro Shark external tank iron for $99 usually; I haven't tried it, but if it works that's an excellent price. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
On Feb 5, 2008, at 4:24 PM, Lynn Downward wrote: To help a bit, I don't iron much but press while sewing, weight isn't a problem for me, I like to have steam and optional spray. If I was able to get one without the automatic shut-off, I'd be happy but I don't know if anyone is making those anymore... The external-boiler models generally don't have auto shut-off. Mine doesn't. I don't want spray in my iron, just steam. I got a Polder Ironing Station (board) and it's got a shelf for a little trigger-spray bottle. Easy to refill and one less thing on the iron that could break or leak. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] How do you like your iron? - again - OT
On Feb 5, 2008, at 4:22 PM, Andrew T Trembley wrote: Costco Online has the EuroPro Shark external tank iron for $99 usually; I haven't tried it, but if it works that's an excellent price. Someone just pointed out that the Shark isn't on Costco online anymore, and they're right. I haven't looked in a few months. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Colored shirts in the 16th century?
On Jan 17, 2008, at 2:35 PM, Jane Stockton wrote: I'm no expert, but could blue refer to a super bleached fabric? Isn't a bluing agent sometimes used to whiten discoloured white fabric? True white, as measured by a spectrometer, is, to most of our eyes, a touch yellow. What we expect when we think of white is biased a little bit towards the blue. What does this mean to us? A blue wash acts to blunt the yellowing in fibers and make them look more white. It's the original reason that old ladies used blue wash to tint their hair. Like so many things that started out as a good idea, it's often a touch over-done. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Bamboo fabric
On Jan 15, 2008, at 3:32 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Fabric.com has some bamboo fabric among their new arrivals for fashion fabric. Dpes anyone know what the hand/drape of bamboo fabric is like? Bamboo cloth is technically a rayon. I'd generalize and say it's a bit softer than cotton in the same weave or knit. It really varies, though. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] For your Belle Époque inspiration. ..
Alameda's own St. George Spirits just received label approval for St. George Absinthe Verte Yep, the first US-made US-legal absinthe since 1912. I tasted a distiller's proof earlier this year, and it was fabulous. Strong, delicate, complicated, not just bitter with black licorice. It comes in a cool vintage-style bottle too. The first commercial bottle sold on Monday, and general sales open on December 21. http://www.stgeorgespirits.com/ http://www.sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?f=/c/a/2007/12/05/ MNQJTO9FM.DTL http://www.nytimes.com/2007/12/05/dining/05absi.html andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
betweens (was RE: [h-cost] sewing needles
On Nov 29, 2007, at 12:09 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I was trained to use betweens for most sewing - they're shorter than sharps and tend to be a bit stronger. I'll admit that I do very little hand sewing, but... I'm completely on-board with betweens. They're great for doing running stitch; since they're shorter there's less drag from the needle. I've been working my way through a big pack of vintage betweens with flat-ground eyes (much like suture needle eyes) and I'll be very disappointed when I get to the last one and have to start using new ones. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Con
On Nov 28, 2007, at 1:15 PM, Jane Pease wrote: For the incogniscenti among us, what exactly is Costume Con? Who sponsors it Where is information available? Costume-Con is the international conference of fantasy, science fiction, historical and fashion costumers. It's attended by costume hobbyists, professionals and academics. The Costume-Con history website is at http://www.costume-con.org/. There you will find documentation and pictures from conferences up to Costume-Con 24 in Des Moines. This spring Costume-Con 25 was held in St. Louis, and the local committee persuaded Robin Netherton to present there. Costume-Con 26 will be held April 25-28, 2008 at the San Jose Doubletree in California. Find more information at http:// www.cc26.info/. Costume-Con 27 will be held May 1-4, 2009 at the Holiday Inn Select Timonium in the Baltimore, MD area. There's a PDF flyer at http:// www.costume-con.com/cc27/cc27flyer2.pdf. Costume-Con 28 is scheduled for 2010 at the Hilton Milwaukee City Center in Wisconsin. Website at http://www.cc28.org/. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CC 2009 whine...
On Nov 25, 2007, at 6:00 AM, cahuff wrote: So I went to Darkover Grand Council (had a great time! Saw people, got cool books...) and got the flyer for CC in 2009...in Baltimore!! Yah!!! on the first weekend in May WAHH!! That is Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival weekend. So once again I'll be missing CC and it's right in my backyard grumph Please could those in charge look and see what might just conflict the next time they plan an event. Please? So putting on my cranky hat: Try scheduling an international-scope event. There are no good weekends. Our Costume-Con in San Jose (for which we picked dates nearly 6 years ago) is booked against the West Kingdom 2008 Spring Collegium Occidentalis. No matter how wide you cast your net for a conflict-free date, you'll never find one. Putting on my practical hat: You can go to Maryland Sheep and Wool Festival any year, if it's in your backyard. CC won't be in your backyard again for at least half a decade. Go to the event that you'll regret missing for years instead of the one that you'll also be able to go to in 2008 and 2010. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Embroidery sewing machine
On Nov 9, 2007, at 12:34 AM, juliana foulare wrote: Greetings all, I have a question for everyone. I have been wanting a machine that does embroidery for yearsss. It now seems that this will become a reality. After looking at s many I'm confused (not that it takes much to do that) and can't make up my mind. My question is this in your opinion which one do you feel is best and why you feel this way? You can either answer on the list or to me privately. You don't buy an embroidery machine, you buy a sewing machine dealer. You don't buy an embroidery machine, you buy digitizing software. Seriously. You're talking about a very powerful machine that can do a lot of things and that can cost more than I've paid for most of my cars. It is worth buying from a dealership with good classes. You'll want the classes so you can learn the full range of techniques available to you. Otherwise you're buying a really expensive machine that you will barely know how to use. It is worth doing a serious evaluation of the digitizing software. It's how you tell the machine to do what it does. Many of the stitches and embroidery techniques aren't in the machine. The machine just moves a hoop around and drops the needle; the digitizing software defines the fill stitches, the satin stitches, everything. That all said, when I finally buy an embroidery machine, I'm getting a Husqvarna Designer SE. I've got a good local dealer I trust. Husqvarna has the most sophisticated software on the market right now. It's simply the most flexible home embroidery machine on the market. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Halloween and the perception of costume
On Oct 31, 2007, at 1:15 PM, Audrey Bergeron-Morin wrote: I wanted to go to work all dressed up. I looked at my medieval clothing and I just couldn't bring myself to wear this to work. For one thing, it would be like cheating. And it wouldn't really be something unusual to wear, from my perspective, even if people at work have never seen me wearing it. And it would be kind of boring. And, also, well... they're not really costumes, are they? I worked Faire. I don't wear Elizabethans for anything other than Elizabethan events anymore (not that I've gone to Elizabethan events in recent years nor do any of my Elizabethans fit, but neither is relevant). I'm wearing 18th century Japanese in gaudy plaids and prints, because Japanese is still a relatively new costuming phase for me, and it's barely 2 months old. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] If there's anybody who would know...
...it would be here. I'm looking for North American retailers/wholesalers of ramie cloth. For that matter, I'm interested in any vendor who ships to the US... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Used book sources
I prefer to buy from dealers I know, but usually it's just combing through the stock and seeing if there's anything interesting. I'll still ask if they can find something they don't have in stock, usually waiting until I decide I can't live without it anymore. In that case, I've used Amazon marketplace with good results. I still: 1. review the seller feedback. 2. check where the seller is located. 3. see if the seller has any other web presence. If possible I'll spend a bit more to go with a seller that's within easy driving distance, should there be a problem with the book not matching the description and quality listing. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
On Oct 4, 2007, at 12:02 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Fair use, people. Fair use. http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm#test The general counsel of a major university system, writing in plain English for folks who aren't lawyers. It's directed at the faculty in his system. Of course, if you do want a more generic (and far more detailed) view, you can check out the Stanford Copyright Fair Use Center http://fairuse.stanford.edu/. They've got their own explanation of the Fair Use Test, but it's a bit more detailed: http://fairuse.stanford.edu/Copyright_and_Fair_Use_Overview/ chapter9/9-b.html The problem is that many people want to take _one_ criteria, such as I'm not making any money from it or I work for an educational institution and assume that everything they want to do with material they want to use is fair use. There are actually a variety of criteria they must meet. Also, even, some people wave around the term fair use, as if to say, Well it exists, so whatever I'm doing must be fair use. Not so. And yet you argue against generalizations with more generalizations. Sylvia was describing (although I look to her to verify this) copying individual photographs from sources of historical fashion for class presentation and/or course packs. At first glance, that qualifies as fair use. Let's run through the tests (I'll use the UT version, it's easier to understand) to confirm: FACTOR 1: What is the character of the use? It's educational, a high-ranking use under this test. It may also be non-profit (another high-ranking use), but I don't know anything about the institution or organization for which she's teaching this class. FACTOR 2: What is the nature of the work to be used? It's probably fact (the material in the images isn't likely to be original to the copyright holder on the work and may, itself, be in the public domain even if the photograph itself isn't) and it's published. High-ranking classifications under this test FACTOR 3: How much of the work will you use? A small amount, if you're qualifying the book as the work and not the photo (which is the norm). Since #1 and #2 already point towards fair use, even if it was claimed that the photo was the work, it may be justifiable as fair use. FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would it have on the market for the original or for permissions? After evaluation of the first three factors, the proposed use is tipping towards fair use So it looks like Sylvia is in the clear at a basic level. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
On Oct 4, 2007, at 1:31 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: FACTOR 4: If this kind of use were widespread, what effect would it have on the market for the original or for permissions? It can have a great deal of effect. Bear in mind that the copyright owner has a much better grasp of the effect on sales than the copyright violator, and the copyright owner can present that evidence in court. I stated at the beginning that I was using the UT test as an example. Go back and read http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/ copypol2.htm#test. Then come back with answers again, or with citations explaining how the analysis of their general counsel (who is trying to give their faculty as much freedom as possible while avoiding litigation) is incorrect. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
repurposed fabric... Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmakers dummy wearing?
On Oct 4, 2007, at 2:38 PM, Dawn wrote: There's a lot of embroidered linen out there that either has so many motifs, or glued applique, that it probably isn't worth bothering with. If it's not bulky embellishment, it may still be good as lining or interlining. I've got some ugly olive-drab linen with an uglier umber- ish basketweave embroidery pattern on it. Got it dirt cheap. I've got enough to line quite a few garments... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Licensed art images for educational institutions...
If you're working for for a school or university that is a subscriber, check out ARTstor. http://www.artstor.org/ Alas, my employer isn't a participant. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
On Oct 4, 2007, at 4:06 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Because I brought the analysis to the table, I said that it was the foundation of my example, and you're taking the lazy way out by not arguing on the points and positions. Nope. It's quite as reasonable for me to run you around and waste your time--or rather, act as an e-list troll--and insist that unless you write little essays on the books that I assign YOU to read that you are taking the easy way out, as for you to try that game on me. I've been a publishing professional, I've dealt with copyright professionally for over 23 years, and in my brother, I have a lawyer to consult close at hand. I don't need to prove myself to you. I work for a university. We participated in the CSU-SUNY-CUNY Work Group on Ownership, Legal Rights of Use and Fair Use. I listen to our general counsel, who continues to update the work group's Fair Use of Copyrighted Works: A Crucial Element in Educating America. I chose the UT website because it provides a more detailed explanation of the fair use test, but it's exactly the same fair use test that our general counsel provides to faculty http://www.calstate.edu/GC/Docs/Fair_Use.doc. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
On Oct 3, 2007, at 10:52 AM, Rickard, Patty wrote: Be sure you make sure that the pics are not under copywrite, though - or get permission first. Copywriting is what a copywriter does. Copyright is an intellectual property. Simply put, it's the right to control reproduction and use of a work. That's why it's right and not write. Copywrite is, well, nothing. It's kind of like irregardless. It's a non-word substituted for a real one. If this is for non-profit educational use, it may fall under fair use. The University of Texas has an excellent Crash Course in Copyright with an extensive section (that's understandable by the hoi polloi, not just lawyers) on fair use. http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
On Oct 2, 2007, at 8:55 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: Do any of you costume instructors know of a source for costume/ fashion history cds? I've been trying to take photos out of books but either I can't keep the book flat or I can't keep the camera steady enough so the pictures come out decently. I bought a tripod but that didn't help, so now I'm wondering if I can just buy a collection somewhere. I'm all for scanners if you can do it without breaking the binding. If the originals are too large, use a camera and a copy stand. They're available on eBay pretty cheap. I've been meaning to get a copy stand to photograph patterned fabrics with a large repeat. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] costume photos
On Oct 3, 2007, at 3:50 PM, Sylvia Rognstad wrote: Does one need permission just to take pics to show for a class? There's no way I am going to try to do that for all the books I'm copying out of. http://www.utsystem.edu/OGC/IntellectualProperty/copypol2.htm UT's Crash Course in Copyright. Short answer: probably not. Read it, though. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] middle ages: braies for women?
On Sep 14, 2007, at 6:06 AM, Melanie Schuessler wrote: On Sep 14, 2007, at 4:03 AM, Zuzana Kraemerova wrote: It is surely interesting to think logically about such a problem, but, just as you say, we can never rely on it, and, as we all know, people didn't always act very logically and didn't choose the most comfortable garments they could. Think of all those corsets and hoop petticoats and cage crinolines - the latest being worn even by lower-class working women that would surely need a more practical dress than the bourgeoise and nobility. While it's certainly true that some fashions are more inconvenient than others on a purely practical level, I think that saying that people acted illogically and chose uncomfortable garments is misleading. We tend to think that our current fashion is the most logical, comfortable, and lovely one, but people in the past thought the same thing. Susan Vincent's _Dressing the Elite: Clothes in Early Modern England_ has some wonderful information on this. Every fashion has its own internal logic, supported by cultural assumptions about what is healthful, beautiful, appropriate, etc. Comfort is what you're used to, and it's not synonymous with practicality. Having worn Elizabethan menswear (drafted from Arnold) for a season of faire, I can say that over time the posture it encourages was uncomfortable for me. That doesn't mean that someone who developed that posture from childhood by wearing those clothes daily would find it uncomfortable. Having now worn 16th century Japanese, I have to say that while all that yardage is hardly practical, it's incredibly comfortable (and a great reminder of how hot a country Japan is in summer, in the hot snap a few weeks ago I would have been comfortable even under more layers). andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Using Feathers in Costume
On Sep 5, 2007, at 11:16 AM, Tori Ruhl wrote: What feathers are best for sewing onto fabric in order to get a nice sleek look? The project is going to consist of a sheath type dress, covered in feathers. I don't have any experience working with them, so advice is greatly appreciated. (best way to layer, attach...etc) I'd go with 4-6 ostrich drabs (body feathers) http:// www.ostrichesonline.com/feather/of-db-5-nat.html. They're flexible and sturdy, so they would hold up pretty well on a dress. They're available in many colors, and if you're going for dark colors you could just buy the naturals cheap and dye them yourself with acid dye. As to how to attach? In horizontal tiers from the bottom to the top. Stitch the shafts down to your fabric with a strong thread (carpet thread or artificial sinew) using a glover's needle that you can punch through the shaft. To avoid having obvious straight lines of feather tips (even if they're not exactly the same length), you may want to do a zig-zag or sawtooth-wave tier pattern instead of a straight horizontal line. Another good (and perhaps more economical) layout would be to do it in a scale pattern. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] fake fur in Sacramento, CA?
On Sep 4, 2007, at 6:35 PM, Joan Jurancich wrote: At 03:13 PM 9/4/2007, you wrote: For those of you in the area, where would you go for a good selection at a decent price? Dawn I have not found any local Sacramento source for anything other than very inexpensive fake fur. If I were looking for decent fake fur, I'd try on-line sources. You can always request samples before placing an order. I've found Hancock's to often have good (if somewhat expensive) fake fur. I don't know, though, if there are any Hancock's left in Sacramento after the big reorganization. Otherwise I'd suggest doing a run to San Francisco. Discount Fabrics (4 shops around town, the one in the Haight is pretty good, and the one in the SOMA is huge) has always had a good selection of fake fur. Mendel's Art (also in the Haight, about 3 doors down from Discount) has great fake fur. Online, check out Monterey Mills http://www.montereymills.com/. Their website is frightening, but their product is excellent. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] re: Speaking of Chinese Costume...
On Aug 31, 2007, at 2:34 PM, Cin wrote: Found it myself. Peacock Cantonese Opera Association, Sunnyvale. The services page has pictures of costumes. http://peacock-opera.com/services.html Again, you can see the water sleeves sewn directly to the cuffs. The groups gives lessons in opera skills. I'm sure someone will be thrilled to tell an interested wairen all about the costumes. Oh, now that's funny. It's a different group. The folks presenting the trunk show aren't the Peacock Cantonese Opera Association, they're the Chinese Opera Association of Silicon Valley http://www.chineseoperausa.org/. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Speaking of Chinese Costume...
On Aug 30, 2007, at 3:21 PM, Cin wrote: ...I know where there's going to be a trunk show of vintage Cantonese Opera costumes from the Cantonese Opera Society of Sunnyvale at the end of September. You can probably get a look at original garments of this type. andy And you're just going to tease instead of actually telling us where? I don't have permission to repost the announcement. Email me offlist about it and I'll forward your request to the host. She's in Japan right now, though, so there may be a delay in responses. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Speaking of Chinese Costume...
On Aug 29, 2007, at 2:14 PM, Sharon Henderson wrote: I am attempting to replicate the look of this for a non-opera purpose. In an online article about the Chinese traditional opera (an article I cannot now find... alas...) there is a picture of three actors who have brought some children up on stage with them and put them in the garments, and on one child you can see that the undergarment apparently crosses over the front wrap-style, like a kimono, and that while the sleeves are huge and long--the body of the garment itself is barely waist-length. If it's that short on a child, I can imagine it must be like the little white blouse worn with traditional dirndls: very short indeed! :-) If... ...you're in the SF Bay Area... and ...you don't need to finish this quickly... ...I know where there's going to be a trunk show of vintage Cantonese Opera costumes from the Cantonese Opera Society of Sunnyvale at the end of September. You can probably get a look at original garments of this type. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help
On Aug 28, 2007, at 3:46 PM, Julie wrote: It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a copy of 5000 years of Chinese Costume. It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese clothing. andy * Wow! I found it from $81 to $300 but no pictures, darn it. I'd have to see a bood that expensive before I bought it. Thanks for the lead. The $81 copy is in Australia. The others in the $200-300 range are in the US and reflect the standard pricing. There's a picture at http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/0835118223/ ref=ord_cart_shr/104-5086103-7604733?%5Fencoding=UTF8v=glance andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Book!
So I've been told about what is essentially the holy grail of Japanese Historical costume books: Jidai Issho no Nuikata (ISBN: 4773984058) http://www.amazon.co.jp/時代衣裳の縫い方-改訂―復元品 を中心とした日本伝統衣服の構成技法-栗原-弘/dp/ 4773984058/ref=sr_11_1/503-4426301-8840760? ie=UTF8qid=1188256160sr=11-1 I probably can figure out the patterns without reading Japanese, but I can't figure out the cost or whether it's available. Anybody read enough Japanese to check out the Amazon.co.jp webpage and tell me if it's worth it to figure out how to buy the thing? andy___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book!
On Aug 28, 2007, at 5:24 PM, Saragrace Knauf wrote: Also I read elsewhere that at one time it was sold by the Kyoto Costume Museum...maybe you could try there? It's not currently in the Kyoto Costume Museum online shop. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Chinese costuming help
On Aug 27, 2007, at 2:33 PM, Julie wrote: My daughter has now decided on a Chinese personna, ca 1575. We don't have to be particularly authentic, just recognizably Chinese. She's supposed to be the widow of a Chinese trader in spices, silks opium visiting the Spanish court. It'll be a smidge expensive on the used/rare book market, but find a copy of 5000 years of Chinese Costume. It's the most comprehensive resource I've ever found on Chinese clothing. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Costume College 2008 registration (was Re: [h-cost] King Tut exhibit (WAS: More Comments: Costume Content)
On Aug 23, 2007, at 12:39 PM, Gytha Stonegrinder wrote: Annie's a wonder! I've missed Costume College the last 2 years... hope to get back to it next year... Kathy I'm sorry to inform you of this, but Costume College 2008 registration sold out around lunch on Sunday of this year's College. I believe there is a waiting list, but I also believe it's pretty long already. If you're not already registered, your chances of getting in are pretty slim. The CGW board is considering how to solve this issue while maintaining the quality of their classroom instruction, but that's not going to change things for College 2008 registration. If you need your costume event fix for next year, please check out Costume-Con 26 in San Jose (April 25-28, 2008) http://www.cc26.info/ . Many of the Angelenos are planning to come up for our event. We've got folks with extensive historical costume background on our committee, including Shelly Monson, Aurie Bradley, Elanor Farrell and Jennifer Tifft. Our Friday night Social is the Victorian Underwear Party. Our vice-chair is in the used luxury car business and is an antique car show judge; she's working her connections to get some interesting vintage cars for early-20th century photo shoots. There should be plenty of activities for historical costume enthusiasts. You can check out the history of Costume-Con in the Costume- ConNections Photo archive; you can find 24 years of historical competition entries there http://www.costume-con.org/gallery2/. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] It's time for Japanese...
On Aug 13, 2007, at 6:14 AM, Helen Pinto wrote: andy wrote: Does anybody have better resources on earlier Japanese costume, say Heian and Kamakura styles? There's a great new book: Kure, Mitsuo, _Samurai: Arms, Armor, Costume_, Chartwell Books, London, UK, 2007, ISBN: 0785822089, ISBN-13: 9780785822080 It lists for $19.99US, but lots of places have it cheaper; I got my copy for around $12. Most of the costumes depicted are pre-Edo, and each is given at least four pages of pictures, text, and diagrams. Costumes are shown from different angles, and in various stages of assembly. There are much more of the mens' costumes than the womens', and lots of armor. The text is very entertaining. Thank you, this is exactly the sort of thing I'm looking for (menswear is often an afterthought in so many costume books). andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Heat n Bond Hell
On Jul 30, 2007, at 1:12 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: I just bought a new machine and the salesman said Gutermann thread is horrible and recommended against using it in my new machine. He recommended some thread (I don't remember the name, started with a M). Of course, I have 50 colors of Gutermann. It's probably Mettler Metrosene polyester thread, or perhaps Mölnlycke polyester thread. This is the first time, though, that I've heard bad things about Gütermann thread. There's a fun page at http://sewing.about.com/library/weekly/ aa102100a.htm of microphotography of different threads. Metrosene, Mölnlycke and Gütermann all look really good in the microphotography test. andy___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Help with 'breaking down' costume
On Jul 16, 2007, at 11:30 AM, Pauline Loven wrote: Can anyone direct me to some good tips on breaking down or ageing costume - does anyone know of any books, booklets or web sites that might be useful? The term you should be searching for is distressing a costume. What sort of effects do you want to create, though? Are we talking visible wear, dirt, stains, fading? andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Order of the Phoenix
On Jul 16, 2007, at 7:23 AM, Abel, Cynthia wrote: So putting the movie Umbridge in bad Chanel knockoffs 60's suits was not such a bad idea, I think. Also as a Ministry of Magic official, she would be more intimidating to the students and the audience by being tall--we associate height with authority. It's Imelda Staunton. I've seen her in a lot of stuff; she often works with Stephen Fry and Hugh Laurie. She's not at all a tall woman. Positively tiny standing next to Fry and Laurie. 5' even according to the bio information I was able to find. Of course, I haven't watched the movie yet, I suppose they may have put her in heels. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] The Golden Age(film)
On Jul 11, 2007, at 5:12 PM, Anne Moeller wrote: It's a pity she looks like Gary Oldman in Dracula in one of the pictures!! (The bifurcated wig and lime green silk dress one.) Suzi I knew that dreadful look was familiar. Yuk!! I would love to know what inspired that! Does anyone know who the costume designer is on this movie? the funny thing is the Old Oldman Dracula butt-hair costume was one of the more historically-consistent designs in that film... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Now it can be read!
The second edition of the Costume-Con 26 Progress Report, *Seams To Me*, is on its way to registered members, which means it's now available to download from http://www.cc26.info! Get the latest on our comfy hotel, our fabulous dealers' room, our stunning exhibits, and the eagerly-awaited Fashion Folio rules! Download the PR now, but beware – it’s so full of goodies it may take a little while to load! http://www.cc26.info/progress_reports/CC26_PR_2.pdf You'll need the free Acrobat reader to view the downloadable version. Of course, CC26 members receive a copy in the mail – if you’re not a member, you can register online and be sure of getting the next PR delivered directly to your door, as well as being able to get in on the education, competition, art, and pleasure of spending a weekend with fellow costumers and costume lovers! http://www.cc26.info/main.php?section=membership Costume-Con is a premiere venue for professional and hobbyist costumers to meet, compete, share, and socialize. CC-26 takes place April 25-28, 2008 in San Jose, CA. Stay up to date with Costume-Con 26! Write us at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if you have questions or want to volunteer. Please forward freely. Costume-Con is a registered service mark of Karen Dick, used by permission. CC26! Adventures in the Costume Continuum is a project of The Unconventional Foundation.___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Ahem-something interesting
On May 8, 2007, at 8:43 AM, Saragrace Knauf wrote: The only other painting I remember showing this sort of thing is a Breughel - (a younger as I recall) of a woman squatting in the woods. I am sure it is more common than we see. I guess on of the big French palaces(Versailles?) didn't originally have any bathrooms and I recall hearing often of folks relieving themselves in stairways and fireplaces. I wish I could recall the period source that talked about collecting saltpetre (from urine) from church pews... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061
On May 3, 2007, at 11:09 AM, MaggiRos wrote: Not that this keeps us from screaming over the costumes in something like The Tudors. The budget demands of a show like don't explain some of the design choices they made. I'm willing to give historical fantasy more leeway than something that claims accuracy. I'm willing to give designers a lot of credit if they can use and successfully hide modern techniques because they're practical. A performance venue, whether it's stage, screen or something interactive like historical faire, is a performance venue. There's still a point at which I can't suspend disbelief anymore. I think the worst case is when there's obviously been a lot of work put into accuracy, and one or two costumes (the stars', usually) just don't match. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] new Butterick pattern 5061
On May 3, 2007, at 3:30 PM, Robin Netherton wrote: It occurs to me that the productions that get the most criticism on this list are historical drama, particularly those that purport to be realistic (say, Elizabeth, which offered film-linked packets for school history programs as part of its marketing, as opposed to Orlando, which was also set partly at the Elizabethan court but had a strong fantastical/ satirical element). I remember the uproar in academic circles about Elizabeth offering the history packets. This after the director blathered on and on in interviews about how he wanted to tell a modern story and discarded most of the history. Shakespeare in Love was much more interesting. It proudly took up the mantle of historical fantasy, and yet it captured the period much better. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Monkey Claw Buttons
On Apr 18, 2007, at 2:47 PM, Julie wrote: Apparently I have these links saved at home and not at work. There are several sites devoted to frogs, Chinese knotting. A Google search should turn it up...but look for monkey PAW rather than claw. There's another name as well...Turkish something. There are two different Monkey's Paw or Monkey's Fist knot. There's the coil-style (as found by Sharon): http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpawcoil.html It can be formed around a core (as in the link above) or without a core (as in Sharon's link), and can produce a very nice ball either way. Turk's Head knots are different. http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/turkhed.html The basic Turk's Head is a decorative wrap or fastening, made around a cylinder. Totally not what we're looking for here. http://www.ropeworks.biz/archive/monkpaw.html The Turk's Head style Monkey Paw is formed flat and then bent over a core. It gives a different look than the coil-style monkey's paw. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume-Con 26 rates go up May 1!
CC26: Rates on the Rise Been *meaning* to get your Costume-Con 26 membership before the rates go up? Well, now is the time to act: rates go up on May Day! (5/1/07) Our current rate is $75. On May 1st, we hop up to $85. Supporting memberships, Kids-In-Tow and Youth memberships stay at the current rate. If you voted for CC26 in Silicon Valley, you may apply your $10 voting fee towards your memberships. What are you getting for your membership you ask? Answer: Lots of opportunities to compete against and chill with other costumers and designers - and lots of reasons to get your picture taken! You'll find plenty of inspiration in our vendors area, and from the costumes in the halls. Show off your finest doll couture, your bushiest tail, or your sharpest vest crease. Pick up tips and techniques for making almost anything from our experts! Costume-Con offers an abundance of educational workshops, competitions, and social events. Check out http://www.cc26.info for the latest on our offerings. We'll show our town off to its costuming best, guiding you to fabric, museums, and restaurants. This is California! Expect great weather and endless opportunities for fun. Don't forget your time-traveling togs! Join us at Costume-Con 26. Visit http://www.cc26.info and register before the fees ascend! The Doubletree Hotel San Jose will soon create a Private Online Group Page for online reservations. More news soon! Please forward freely. Costume-Con is a registered service mark of Karen Dick, used by permission. CC26! Adventures in the Costume Continuum is a project of The Unconventional Foundation. ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] I'm keeping a running list...
...of Costume-Con 25 photo albums and websites in the Costume-Con livejournal community. http://community.livejournal.com/costume_con/tag/photos If yours isn't there, post it, or let me know and I'll add it. andy ___ h-costume mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume-Con 25 photos: Have I missed anything?
I've been keeping track of the photo galleries that were posted. So far, I've got: Don McClane http://www.tancos2.net/costume2/cc07A.html Kelli Maethoriel http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/tags/cc25/ John O'Halloran http://pics.ohalloran.org/gallery2/main.php?g2_itemId=28 Loren http://www.flickr.com/photos/[EMAIL PROTECTED]/sets/72157600060623903/ Have I missed any others? andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in makeup
On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin, plus it washes off with water. Have you ever used this? Sharon I love the Grimas water-based face paint from the Netherlands (I mail-order it from a shop in the UK). It's very versatile, and very sturdy. Best of all, jump in the shower and a bit of soap or shampoo takes it off completely. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Christian VII's banyan, /Frederik V/now men in makeup
On Apr 10, 2007, at 4:32 PM, Suzi Clarke wrote: At 23:19 10/04/2007, you wrote: On Apr 10, 2007, at 2:37 PM, Sharon Collier wrote: I use a water based makeup, which I find is less heavy on the skin, plus it washes off with water. Have you ever used this? Sharon I love the Grimas water-based face paint from the Netherlands (I mail-order it from a shop in the UK). It's very versatile, and very sturdy. Best of all, jump in the shower and a bit of soap or shampoo takes it off completely. andy Andy Is that Fox's Makeup shop? 1st Night in Milton Keynes. They've got an online shop at http:// www.showmakeup.co.uk/. They were recommended to me by the Grimas wholesaler. They've got the whole line (water and grease). Only thing Grimas makes that's crap is their stage blood; the rest is great. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pleated trim question.
On Apr 10, 2007, at 6:06 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: For ribbon, the standard is just too tiny. There must be some sort of pleating machine or sewing machine attachment for pleating in 1cm - 3 cm fan box pleats in grosgrain, satin or velvet face ribbons. They do exist for industrial ribbon manufacturing. How 'bout at the home or small dressmaker's shop scale? Know of one? It would be just the thing. Dreaming of powertools in Silicon Valley, Why, yes! I have one! Let me find a picture. Here! What it looks like and how to use it! http://vintagesewing.info/1920s/26-fcm/fcm-07.html I've got a ruffler foot just like that. http://www.bovil.com/index.php? option=com_gallery2Itemid=47g2_itemId=2624 It can do maybe 1cm ruffles. Nothing big. For serious ruffles, you want a Johnson Ruffler. http://www.johnsonrufflingmachines.com/ Neither, though, really creates pleats, and neither is great on heavy- ish material. Every ruffler foot I've seen would choke on grosgrain ribbon, and a Johnson Ruffler would probably need a reinforced ruffler arm. andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
On Apr 6, 2007, at 11:55 AM, Ruth Anne Baumgartner wrote: On Tue, 3 Apr 2007, Dawn wrote: snip http://tancos2.pmachinehosting.com/animelog_comments.php? id=2992_0_2_0_C These are mostly from the masquerades. Top, Gypsy Ames in a truly impressive Hindu-goddess-inspired-something- or-other; I was too bedazzled to note the name as her presentation was a showstopper. That would be Kali, I imagine. (not enough arms, but the rest is wow!) It's Vajra, not Kali. (Yes, I remember the title.) andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Back from Costume-Con
On Apr 4, 2007, at 4:54 AM, Judy Mitchell wrote: Dawn wrote: I was impressed by the overall quality of the costuming there, and the relatively large numbers of well-made hostorical costumes that were around. yup, there are some serious historic costumers around. and in 2 years it comes to Baltimore where I'm the Historic Masquerade Director! I'm hoping for lots of good entries, so come on out. We're working on getting a website up, so no url to point you to (reg is $70 til the end of the year). We're expecting an absolutely huge historical competition next year in San Jose. California is just loaded with clubs, organizations and businesses that organize re-creation events. The Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild, Period Events Entertainments and Recreations (known as PEERS, a vintage dance group), the Bay Area English Regency Society and the Renaissance fairs don't even scratch the surface. Our historical masquerade team is very well connected in these circles. Shelly Monson's community/hobbyist credentials are fabulous; she's worked numerous historical fairs in the Bay area and teaches workshops on many different period garments and techniques. Ellie Farrell is the gal who organized and entered Alice's Restaurant in historical masquerade a decade or so back to prove that it was possible to document the 1960's just as thoroughly as the 1560's. We're expecting great things from them... andy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: detachable sleeves
On Mar 20, 2007, at 8:18 AM, Kirsten Felton wrote: Not like throwing on a garment like we do today was it? it must have taken an hour to get dressed back then. It all depended on who you were and what your station was. Peasants and serfs could dress quickly. A friend of mine played Queen Elizabeth at a renaissance faire. She was visiting a different faire (not as ER), and got into a discussion offstage with the Queen there, who was inordinately proud of being able to get dressed by herself. My friend was a bit appalled by this; for her, the hour or so of being dressed (not getting dressed) was important for her to get in to character each morning. It was just what she needed to detach from her daily jobs of being a museum tour guide and a voice actress. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ Play Internet Argument-Losing Bingo! http://www.shortpacked.com/d/20060405.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] OT: Trip recommendations
On Feb 15, 2007, at 4:14 PM, Susan B. Farmer wrote: I'm going to be in Chicago the first of July (5-11th) What should I see there? (yeah, the fabric district, got any specific recommendations?) I've been out of the midwest for quite a few years, but... Vogue fabrics in Evanston is pretty cool. The Aurora Bleachery in Aurora used to have a fabulous remnant shop. Cotton and poly-cotton solids sold by the pound. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen http://www.bovil.com/ It's not pink; it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky. --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Pattern ease
On Feb 8, 2007, at 3:25 PM, Cin wrote: What is it with Home Ec teachers??? I suffered a similar fate. I had to take Home Ec as I was female, shop was strictly for the boys. I had been cooking and sewing for years before hand. Heh, I was in the garage playing powertools with my dad. I've decided to re-learn braising (it's kinda like welding) so I can make a huge wire supportasse. The wire wrap one I tried was too heavy warped. Brazing, please. Braising is something from home-ec ;) -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R (Kevin's) It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky. --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel 2nd most important safety device on my bike: the one beneath my right hand Most important safety device on my bike: the one inside my helmet ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] New Simplicity 1850s design
On Feb 2, 2007, at 7:26 AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: 12 yards @45 for the dress? 12 yards It's plaid. It's all matched. All the horizontals match (roughly). Cutting it is going to be wasteful. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R (Kevin's) ...remaining .sig trimmed for better message/.sig ratio ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
GBACG Open House (was Re: [h-cost] Re: Hero costume at Costume Con
On Jan 17, 2007, at 12:39 PM, Sharon at Collierfam.com wrote: I was a Tech theatre major, did some costuming, but really got interested five years ago when I got involved in the Renaissance and Dickens Fairs. The costume requirements are quite strict, so I got much more interested in authentic costume vs. theatrical costume. When I heard about this list last year, I joined. I'd never heard of the Costume Conventions before. One of the women I recently met is a co-founder (I think) of the Bay Area Costumers Guild, so I am learning more every day. So, on the off chance you didn't know, the Greater Bay Area Costumers Guild is having it's open house on January 28 in San Francisco: http://www.gbacg.org/Current/OpenHouse.htm andy -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen http://www.irlm.org/ - mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Anybody who takes this seriously deserves to -- Donna Barr ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Tardis
On Jan 12, 2007, at 7:27 AM, Kristin wrote: On 12/12/06, Andrew Trembley [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dianne Greg Stucki wrote: At 04:53 PM 12/11/2006, you wrote: I have one in my garage (don't ask), -C. Now you KNOW we have to ask! No, if she said she had one in her kitchen, asking would be imperative. Garage, not so much. (and I know why at least one person would have a police box in their kitchen) ... yes, Rose and the Dr. visited her mother quite a few times. But now that they're all in the alternate universe, no more Rose. :( Well... Adam's mom did have a Tardis in her living room once, but I was talking person and not fictional character. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R (Kevin's) It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky. --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel read the FAQ... Ridicule: http://www.idiots-r-us.org/ read the FAQ... IBMWR: http://www.ibmwr.org/faq-files/ read the FAQ... AirList: http://www.airheads.org/faq.html read the FAQ... Hoaxes Urban Legends: http://urbanlegends.about.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CostumeCon (was: Movies and ancient costume)
On Jan 5, 2007, at 7:47 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Dawn and I wanted to go last year when it was in Des Moines, but I was dealing with a broken foot and the attendant medical bills and couldn't spare the price of registration. We drove up and visited the vendor hall, but I have a feeling we missed all the fun stuff. Sorry to hear about your troubles. I had a blast at Des Moines, but attendance was pretty low; there are just too many other things to go to Memorial Day Weekend. That said, I skipped my local science fiction convention (something I haven't done since I moved to San Jose) to go to Costume-Con in Des Moines. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ Play Internet Argument-Losing Bingo! http://www.shortpacked.com/d/20060405.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] CostumeCon and projects
On Jan 5, 2007, at 4:34 PM, Suzanne wrote: Yes, I plan on going to CostumeCon. Mostly for the Netherton sequence ;-) but what the heck, might as well stay for Sunday, too. Since I've never gone before, what do I need to know ahead of time? Costuming is a hobby, not my profession, so I'm a little worried about how I'll fit in. Costume-Con was started (and is still organized) by costume hobbyists and amateurs. Some of us have gone pro, but most of us haven't; the costume business is a real bear to make a decent living in. The pros who attend are just as enthusiastic and friendly as the amateurs, and often find themselves thankful that the amateurs are content to stay amateurs. Stay for Sunday night. The Historical Masquerade (stage competition) is on Sunday night, and people really pull out all the stops for it. You'll regret it if you don't. If you can, come Friday. The Friday night social is always a blast, and with the Rock 'n' Roll theme, it's an excuse to throw together something more recently historical, like 1950's or 60's fashion. That or something based on Sophia Coppola's Marie Antoinette. Like, what's a hall costume??!? I'm assuming that we all wear our stuff all the time but that you keep the competition main entries under wraps until the last minute, so anything else is a hall costume... is that about right? Many of the traditions of Costume-Con come from fan-run science fiction conventions. Hall costumes are an example of that. They're any sort of costume you wear around the halls, and they've been around since Forry Ackerman and a friend wore futuristic clothes to the first World Science Fiction Convention in 1939. There are pictures of Forry at http://www.noreascon.org/masquerade/ http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Forrestcostuming.jpg The term is really just to differentiate between hall costume and presentation/competition costume. Presentation costumes need to work from the stage, and can be incredibly large and/or impractical. Hall costumes should be wearable for as long as you like, and convenient for sitting in panels, having dinner, going to parties, taking the elevator and other necessities. Unlike some other costume conferences, Costume-Con encourages attendees to wear costumes throughout the weekend. Some people (the folks who aren't fighting luggage allowances) will go through several changes of clothes each day. Many people build presentation costumes with the intent to wear the costumes (or part of the costume) in the halls at future events. Pierre and Sandy are infamous for the level of detail and practicality that they work into their stage costumes that you only see when they're wearing them (huge wings, floral collars or other uncomfortable whatnot removed) in the halls at another event. And because of CostumeCon, I've bumped the orange Italian Ren aka Hobby Lobby Florentine (no spinach, just cabbage) to the top of my list of projects to complete this year. For the Sunday ORANGE hall costume contest. I think I'm wearing my sunglasses all Sunday. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R (Kevin's) It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky. --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel read the FAQ... Ridicule: http://www.idiots-r-us.org/ read the FAQ... IBMWR: http://www.ibmwr.org/faq-files/ read the FAQ... AirList: http://www.airheads.org/faq.html read the FAQ... Hoaxes Urban Legends: http://urbanlegends.about.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: fiber in paper
On Dec 14, 2006, at 4:33 PM, Onaree Berard wrote: On 12/11/06, Gail Scott Finke [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I remember the television program Connections from my youth saying that after the Black Plague paper production soared because of the huge quantities of linen available from dead people. I don't know if that's really true. Gail Finke Actually it was the survivors spending their inheritace and when they (the linen) wore out it was perfect for the printing industry thus the bone man became the rag and bone man or something to that effect. On the other side of the equation, mummy wrappings were (for a time) a popular source of cloth for rag paper. At one point, a food-borne illness outbreak was tracked to butchers using unbleached rag-paper from mummy wrappings to wrap meat. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen - http://www.bovil.com/ San Jose, CA - '72 R75/5 '86 R100 (mine) - '92 K75sa '03 R1150R (Kevin's) It's not pink, it's peach-colored. Pink is tacky. --Manfred Pfirsich Marie Rommel read the FAQ... Ridicule: http://www.idiots-r-us.org/ read the FAQ... IBMWR: http://www.ibmwr.org/faq-files/ read the FAQ... AirList: http://www.airheads.org/faq.html read the FAQ... Hoaxes Urban Legends: http://urbanlegends.about.com/ ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Props (was Re: Tardis in garage 2
On Dec 12, 2006, at 5:27 AM, Kate Pinner wrote: Boy, do I know that one -- not just props, also costumes So pimp-time... Costume-Con 26 (San Jose, April 2008, http://www.cc26.info/ has approached Chris and Christy Bertani (of the Bay Area English Regency Society's Regency Science Fair) to run our Mad Science Fair, a mad-science prop-building competition. Nothing is firm on this yet. However... This could be an opportunity to build props based on discredited period scientific theories such as alchemy, so it's not just a science fiction fantasy competition. If anyone is interested, I'll post more information as things solidify. -- andy trembley, Bitchy Design Queen http://www.irlm.org/ - mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Anybody who takes this seriously deserves to -- Donna Barr ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
