Re: [MBZ] Memorial Day CL in Seattle
Do trailer it over. Selling a car from the "Hahbah" will be much easier. There is a rabid bioD mob on this side of the mountains that will jump all over it. Huge tank and all will have great appeal. If I do bring it over there I'll probably have to pony up for the WA license and inspection first. I had not done this because there was actually some interest in the car in non-WA venues and it would then have been totally wasted money, but nobody quite bit on it. I could handle the weird three-way transaction in person, but no way should my agent be required to do so. (And he'd be a fourth party.) I suppose I'll have my choice of Gig Harbor, Roy, or Kent --- places where we have relatives. Or even your house in Seattle, Clay? You mentioned this before. Any opinions on where my beastie would be most likely to sell with the least amount of fuss? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
Jim Cathey wrote: And don't forget the credit card and cell phone. A lockbox with a .357 in it wouldn't be amiss either, IMHO, to go along with your other insurance policies. I'm not saying that's a bad idea, but I'd be sure of the legality of it in every state you'll be going through before packing something like that on a cross-country trip. Same goes for Tazers, pepper spray, etc. That's exactly the sort of thing that can turn a routine police stop into a trip-ending legal nightmare.
Re: [MBZ] Memorial Day CL in Seattle
Jim Cathey wrote: I suppose I'll have my choice of Gig Harbor, Roy, or Kent --- places where we have relatives. I'd say Kent. It's centrally located. Gig Harbor is a real pain to get to from the Seattle area because of traffic backups on SR-16.
Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Email lists: Changing a lightbulb
Wow - there are others out there like us! TOO scary!! A Hallicrafter list no less On 5/31/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: so true Forwarded From: Al Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > How many listmembers does it take to change a lightbulb? > > One to change the light bulb and to post that the light bulb has been changed. > > Fourteen to share similar experiences of changing light bulbs and how the > light bulb could have been changed differently. > > Seven to caution about the dangers of changing light bulbs. > > Seven more to point out spelling/grammar errors in posts about changing light > bulbs. > > Five to flame the spell checkers. > > Three to correct spelling/grammar flames. > > Six to argue over whether it's "lightbulb" or "light bulb" ... > > Another six to condemn those six as stupid. > > Fifteen to claim experience in the lighting industry and give the correct > spelling. > > Nineteen to post that this group is not about light bulbs and to please take > this discussion to a lightbulb (or light bulb) forum. > > Eleven to defend the posting to the group saying that we all use light bulbs > and therefore the posts are relevant to this group. > > Thirty six to debate which method of changing light bulbs is superior, where > to buy the best light bulbs, what brand of light bulbs work best for this > technique and what brands are faulty. > > Seven to post URLs where one can see examples of different light bulbs. > > Four to post that the URLs were posted incorrectly and then post the corrected > URL. > > Three to post about links they found from the URLs that are relevant to this > group which makes light bulbs relevant to this group. > > Thirteen to link all posts to date, quote them in their entirety including all > headers and signatures, and add "Me too" > > Five to post to the group that they will no longer post because they cannot > handle the light bulb controversy. > > Four to say "didn't we go through this already a short time ago?" > > Thirteen to say "do a Google search on light bulbs before posting questions > about light bulbs." > > Three to tell a funny story about their cat and a light bulb. > > AND > > One group lurker to respond to the original post 6 months from now with > something unrelated they found at snopes.com and start it all > over again! > > (From the Hallicrafters Collectors' listserver) > ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've exhausted all the alternatives." Sir Winston Churchill '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
On 5/31/06 5:23 PM, "archer" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Since nearly everyones MB seems to be running perfectly with no problems > that need our expert advice, it might be interesting to make a list of parts > and supplies that an MB owner should have in his trunk if he were going to > make a nationwide tour and wanted to do his own repairs on the road. Ask George Murphy
Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
Larry: I agree with everything the others posted about what to have ready. I've done it with as little as a new manifold gasket. But I don't recommend going that economically. But I might add that a torque wrence is useful for getting the mainfold back on tight enough without stripping the aluminum head. My 606 engine uses torx (sp?) type bolts to fasten the manifold - so be ready in case that is what your engine has. I bought what seems to be a good enough 1/4" torque wrench from Harbor Freight for ~$10 IIRC. Ned Kleinhenz
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
Absolutely do that! I'm on what's called the Warm Showers List for touring bicyclists, and it's been a great way to meet people and vicariously participate in their journeys. If you're in our neck of the woods, by all means consider us as a stopover. --mf On May 31, 2006, at 7:24 PM, Bob Rentfro wrote: Before you leave, take a printout of all of us clowns on Chuck's frapper thing. I'm sure none of us would be opposed to getting a ring when you pass through if you need a place to recharge/cleanup/car upkeep/ homecooked meal etc. _ L. Mark Finch 8635 Moore Road Indianapolis IN 46278-1126 317.408.5605 [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.katzenfinch.com/
Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Email lists: Changing a lightbulb
Cool.I need to get me sum a dem Mike - Original Message - From: "Luther Gulseth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 2:31 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Email lists: Changing a lightbulb No dude, the magnets go on the electrical lines to make the light bulbs burn more effeciently. Steve MacSween <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said: on 5/31/06 1:14 PM, Mike Canfield at [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Then install a hair dryer to blow more air into the engine. You will surely > double your horsepower and get another 23MPG on used air filter oil > mixed > with ethanol on your next trip to the dollar store for new lightbulbs. You forgot the magnets strapped to the fuel lines, dude. Magnets. YEAH. Mac -- Luther KB5QHU Alma, Ark '83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix) '82 300CD (160kmi) '82 300D (74kmi needs block or engine) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] CA-spec '85 300D transmission?
A friend's brother has an '85 300D from California with 240k miles and an apparently toasted transmission. I know 1985 was an odd year for the 300D/SD and even wierder for those models sold in the California Republic. It is my understanding that Federal-spec '85s used the good old 722.3 transmission but with a different torque convertor and other bits, while the CA models used a 722.4 trans. Am I right so far? I've also heard that an earlier transmission won't work with an '85 engine, but that the '85 transmission will work with an earlier engine. So there are a few interchangability issues at the end of 123 production. Now enter the CA factor - must the tranny in a CA '85 be replaced with same, or will a standard '85 unit work? Or maybe even an earlier unit? The car seems to be in good shape but while he likes it, the owner has several other cars and just isn't sufficiently devoted to it to invest several grand in a new transmission. He would consider a known good used transmission, if he can find one that will work. "Otherwise he'll probably just scrap it." And I won't let that happen, not to those pristine rockers and wheel arches. Thanks, Tom '82 300D - Rust never sleeps
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide Tour
In a message dated 5/31/2006 6:23:26 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Send Mercedes mailing list submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of Mercedes digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Re: Nationwide tour (Sunil Hari) 2. Re: Fwd: Email lists: Changing a lightbulb (redghost) 3. Re: Nationwide tour (Rich Thomas) 4. Re: Continued off topic (Sunil Hari) 5. Re: Continued off topic (Rich Thomas)-- Message: 11 Date: Wed, 31 May 2006 19:21:39 -0400 (EDT) From: "John W. Reames III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Content-Type: TEXT/PLAIN; charset=US-ASCII On Wed, 31 May 2006, archer wrote: > and supplies that an MB owner should have in his trunk if he were going to > make a nationwide tour and wanted to do his own repairs on the road. A > useful addition to the list might be the locations and telephone numbers of > mechanics and of junkyards that have MBs; Kalebs, for example. When I drove my 84 300SD back and forth 200mi/day, I kept a .50 cal ammo can with: (in addition to the MB tool pouch) -spare fuel filter -2x spare fuel prefilters -glow plug fuse -other fuses -spare (silver) relay -spare glow plug relay (winter) -Spare stop/turn/backup/side marker lamp bulbs (1 or 2 of each bulb type) -Spare voltage regulator -replacement wiper inserts -4 pr nitrile gloves -20-25 zip-ties, 11" long, minimum 30lb capacity -purple bottle castrol hand cleaner (waterless,towel-less) -"click" knife with new blade -6" crescent wrench -9" regular curved-jaw vise grips -10" crescent wrench -6" long-nose vise-grips -small (1/4" drive) metric socket set- deep sockets 7mm-12 or 13mm, 3" -extension, 6" extension, ratchet, spinner handle -4 or 6 way screwdriver -2aa cell mini maglite -spare batteries as needed -flares (4x) -compact safety vest -cheap multimeter (a la harbor freight $5 deals) You might want a pair of double open end wrenches 17mm x 19mm, a 13mm combination wrench or two, and a 3/8" ratchet with 13,15,17,19mm sockets and an extension or two or three, as well as a wonderbar or other small pry bar Outside of the box, - Spare air filter - 3-6 qts M-1 15W50 oil. - Small bottle of anti-gel - Wood jack "pad" made of three layers of 3 pcs each 1x6 pressure treated boards 18" long fastened together with spiral or ring nails - rubber truck mudflap (to lay/kneel on etc) - Coat hangar(wire) - gallon of MB antifreeze - 2 gallons washer fluid - safety triangle - Jumper cables - 3 D-Cell "people-beater" mag-lite (kept laying between the driver seat and the door, within easy reach) -AAA Plus membership card (I have been towed from alexandria to white marsh (jeep, not benz) with a failed alternator You might also want part of a scott "box of rags" (from depot), I kept about 20 or so of them rolled up in a bag I've mainly needed the bulbs, fuses (once!), the GP relay, fuel filters, anti-gel, oil, and wiper inserts (and the requisite tools). The long nose vise-grips are a good hose-pinch off tool. The zip ties are multi-use, ie holding up mufflers with busted donuts, etc I think that would probably cover most anything up to and including an alternator... Of course I've caught grief about how much "junk" wa in my trunk from swmbo. -j. -- ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net End of Mercedes Digest, Vol 6, Issue 183 Hello, A few odds and ends. 1.) Funnel for oil. 2.) Paper towels and cloth rags. 3.) Small medical kit. Frequently available at the outdoor places like REI, Cabelas, Whole Earth Provision Company, etc. Available also online. Of course the modern equivalent of a medical kit is a cellphone. But I prefer to have the kit anyway. You can take it with you when you go hiking. 4.) Trash bags, big strong ones. Make great "emergency" store boxes. Form fitting too. 5.) Duct tape. Thomas Koschmieder Not a Benz owner, yet.
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
I often quote a story to people of when my brother was a buyer for a large national Canadian retailer. I won't say CT's name but Canadians on the list may know who CT is. He came back form mainland China all excited about how they had factories that made toasters and they could produce x number an hourcan't remember exactly but let's say 200 an hour. He was excited because they could produce this many and the suckers would work for 6 cents an hour! Somehow, they could survive on that. I asked him how much harm would it do to give them 12 cents an hour and was met with a blank stare..surely another 6 cents an hour spread over 200 toasters is no big deal but the lowest common denominator rules! I guess the world doesn't need people like me with my 1956 Sunbeam T20 that still works perfectly. When was the last time anyone tried to have a toaster repaired? Or tried it themselves? Thank you for the disposable society...they should have told us when this started that it included people too. Jeff Zedic Toronto 1956 T20 1987 300TD Still uses tube amps and listens to vinyl
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
that still works perfectly. When was the last time anyone tried to have a toaster repaired? Or tried it themselves? Me, a few years ago. I restored (to daily-driver status) an old Toastmaster clockwork toaster, because of the model's sentimental value in my mother's family. She loved the retro (original!) look and it fit right in to their Airstream trailer decor. Was a PITA, but the thing actually was pretty easy to service. The things will run for years. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] CA-spec '85 300D transmission?
tom savage wrote: A friend's brother has an '85 300D from California with 240k miles and an apparently toasted transmission. I know 1985 was an odd year for the 300D/SD and even wierder for those models sold in the California Republic. It is my understanding that Federal-spec '85s used the good old 722.3 transmission but with a different torque convertor and other bits, while the CA models used a 722.4 trans. Am I right so far? I've also heard that an earlier transmission won't work with an '85 engine, but that the '85 transmission will work with an earlier engine. So there are a few interchangability issues at the end of 123 production. Now enter the CA factor - must the tranny in a CA '85 be replaced with same, or will a standard '85 unit work? Or maybe even an earlier unit? The earlier 722.3 transmissions will work on '85 cars, but the '85 722.3 transmission won't fit onto an earlier car/engine. I'm NOT sure about the 722.416 transmissions from '85 California certified 300D/TD/CD/SDs, but they do have a high stall speed torque converters and the earlier transmissions with a torque converter with much lower stall speed would make the car feel REALLY sluggish and slow at low speeds. There are not a lot of '85 722.416 transmissions floating around. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
Ok, but that was YOU, Jim! An exception to the rule by nature and more power to you! I also miss my 50's general electric kettle.you could fill it with 20 litres or so of water and plug it in and watch the streetlights dim at night! Boy that thing would boil water! I wonder how nostalgic I'd be if I wasn't born in 64..? Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
Jeff Zedic wrote: I guess the world doesn't need people like me with my 1956 Sunbeam T20 that still works perfectly. But your '56 Sunbeam spews out 50X the pollution that a modern car with the same power would... Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
I'm not saying that's a bad idea, but I'd be sure of the legality of it in every state you'll be going through before packing something like that on a cross-country trip. Same goes for Tazers, pepper spray, etc. That's exactly the sort of thing that can turn a routine police stop into a trip-ending legal nightmare. If it's unloaded and locked into a non-reachable box it's legal in all states. Federal interstate transport law. Not to say you wouldn't get into a hassle anyway, but the chances are slim. It's really for those nighttime sleep-overs, and if you really need it the potential cop-hassle is the _least_ of your problems. Store the ammo separately, btw. It's odd, but in most places it is illegal to some degree or another to actually have the ability to defend yourself, yet that is what you are required to do! OT, but I believe that everybody should be able to pack heat at all times. Just be prepared to defend your actions in court, and be prepared to pay a heavy price if you're a fool! Does anybody think that we'd really have more crime under such a system? It'd be a different mix of crimes to be sure, but I think that there really would be less of it. I can think of some 3000-odd people that wouldn't be dead right now... Now that I've thrown that grenade... -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic/disposable society
Disposable it is.I hate it. That's why I drive a 68 Dodge M37 3/4 ton cargo truck every day. I can take apart and fix every single component in my driveway. The fact that it burns free "junk yard gas" from scrapping cars helps too. 68 octane and up and she's happy.Will darned near burn varnish. Mike - Original Message - From: "Jeff Zedic" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 9:20 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic I often quote a story to people of when my brother was a buyer for a large national Canadian retailer. I won't say CT's name but Canadians on the list may know who CT is. He came back form mainland China all excited about how they had factories that made toasters and they could produce x number an hourcan't remember exactly but let's say 200 an hour. He was excited because they could produce this many and the suckers would work for 6 cents an hour! Somehow, they could survive on that. I asked him how much harm would it do to give them 12 cents an hour and was met with a blank stare..surely another 6 cents an hour spread over 200 toasters is no big deal but the lowest common denominator rules! I guess the world doesn't need people like me with my 1956 Sunbeam T20 that still works perfectly. When was the last time anyone tried to have a toaster repaired? Or tried it themselves? Thank you for the disposable society...they should have told us when this started that it included people too. Jeff Zedic Toronto 1956 T20 1987 300TD Still uses tube amps and listens to vinyl ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
Sorry Marshall but it's a toaster I was down the street today buying some new vinyl and a guy drove up in a 1975 Pontiac Laurentian..it polluted so badly that I was gagging on the fumes while he was sitting in rush hour traffic..it was THAT noticeable! Jeff Zedic Toaster king
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
Jeff Zedic wrote: Sorry Marshall but it's a toaster That's the trouble, modern toasters pollute just as much as they did 50 year ago...time for toaster control Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] Quaint my ride
Well that and have a dig at German cars, he could have grabbed a English car but it would probably have broken down during filming. Hendrik who has never owned an English car and is not about to either - Original Message - From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 5:03 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Quaint my ride On May 31, 2006, at 1:46 PM, Zeitgeist wrote: I lost all respect for the gasbag when he trashed that Porsche 911 for no apparent reason. He did it for a reason. Ratings=$$$. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.7.1/348 - Release Date: 25/05/2006
Re: [MBZ] Quaint my ride
Oh, it might have run, but the brakes lights would have worked (only electrical part of the whole car that worked though -- ). OK Don, who had an English car (MGA), but there wasn't much Lucas left on it when I sold it. It did have wood floors - just like the front of that 140! On 5/31/06, Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Well that and have a dig at German cars, he could have grabbed a English car but it would probably have broken down during filming. Hendrik who has never owned an English car and is not about to either --
Re: [MBZ] Quaint my ride
Hendrik Riessen wrote: Well that and have a dig at German cars, he could have grabbed a English car but it would probably have broken down during filming. Hendrik, That reminds me of why the Brits never made their own television sets They couldn't figure out how to make them drip oil. BTW, where in Oz are you? Jeff Zedic Toronto
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
I took my well-maintained 1970 280SE 3.5 coupe that I drive less than weekly on average through DC motor vehicles inspection last Friday. Despite the age of the car, they ran it through the tailpipe emissions check inadvertently. The vehicle actually passed with the following test results: HC 204 ppm (limit 1250); CO 3.30 % (limit 9.00), and CO2 11.6% (limit not specified).Are these numbers good, great or so-so? On 5/31/06, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Jeff Zedic wrote: > Sorry Marshall but it's a toaster That's the trouble, modern toasters pollute just as much as they did 50 year ago...time for toaster control Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
Well it passes with flying colours so I'd say they're good! Jeff Zedic Toronto Groovin with Soul Station on Vinyl!
[MBZ] Welcome [was: Re: Nationwide Tour]
On Wed, 31 May 2006 21:15:42 EDT [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > Hello, > > A few odds and ends. > 1.) Funnel for oil. > 2.) Paper towels and cloth rags. > 3.) Small medical kit. Frequently available at the outdoor places like > REI, Cabelas, Whole Earth Provision Company, etc. Available also > online. Of course the modern equivalent of a medical kit is a > cellphone. But I prefer to have the kit anyway. You can take it with > you when you go hiking. > 4.) Trash bags, big strong ones. Make great "emergency" store boxes. > Form fitting too. > 5.) Duct tape. > > Thomas Koschmieder > Not a Benz owner, yet. Welcome, Thomas! Glad to have you on the list, after all my prodding! (Thomas and I worked for the same professor at UT Austin, he as a postdoc and me as a graduate student, so we go back a ways. He even showed up at my house in Austin to help me install the OM617 in my ex-240D.) Craig
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
Jim Cathey wrote: OT, but I believe that everybody should be able to pack heat at all times. Just be prepared to defend your actions in court, and be prepared to pay a heavy price if you're a fool! Does anybody think that we'd really have more crime under such a system? Dunno. I suppose we might find out, now that Florida allows people to use deadly force any time they feel threatened. I'm not sure how well that'll work out. Judging from the way people act on the roads, sometimes just changing lanes seems to be perceived as a personal threat.
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
andrew strasfogel wrote: I took my well-maintained 1970 280SE 3.5 coupe that I drive less than weekly on average through DC motor vehicles inspection last Friday. Despite the age of the car, they ran it through the tailpipe emissions check inadvertently. The vehicle actually passed with the following test results: HC 204 ppm (limit 1250); CO 3.30 % (limit 9.00), and CO2 11.6% (limit not specified).Are these numbers good, great or so-so? Well, for comparison to a "modern" car, here are some fresh results from my '95 Ford Crown Vic's WA emissions test: Idle: HC 12 ppm, CO 0%, CO+CO2 14.7% 25 mph: HC 18 ppm, CO 0.06%, CO+CO 15.36 %. They messed up and only tested one tailpipe, though, so I'm not sure how accurate those numbers are. My '89 VW Cabriolet: Idle: HC 87 ppm, CO 0.27%, CO+CO2 12.97% 25 mph: HC 84 ppm, CO 0.31%, CO+CO2 15.61% The Cabriolet had a miss at idle at the time and desperately needed a tuneup, which probably accounts for some of the high HC number. (Here it pays to test *before* you do any work, because you can get a waiver if you spend more than a certain amount trying to fix a car that fails.) I believe the CO+CO2 number is just to make sure the exhaust isn't being diluted by leaks; in the WA test, it has to be at least 6%.
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
Jeff Zedic wrote: I guess the world doesn't need people like me with my 1956 Sunbeam T20 that still works perfectly. When was the last time anyone tried to have a toaster repaired? Or tried it themselves? My dad used to fix our toasters all the time. They usually ended up working, but with some unusual quirk, when he was done. I remember one that had to be released manually after he fixed it, or the bread would eventually catch fire; and another that, after he was done fixing it, would not just pop up the toast, but actually eject it about a foot into the air. We used to try to catch it.
Re: [MBZ] Quaint my ride
Scary thought, a Lucas television set. Doubles as a smoke machine:) I live in Adelaide. Hendrik who does not own any English electrical appliances either - Original Message - From: "Jeff Zedic" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:19 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Quaint my ride Hendrik Riessen wrote: Well that and have a dig at German cars, he could have grabbed a English car but it would probably have broken down during filming. Hendrik, That reminds me of why the Brits never made their own television sets They couldn't figure out how to make them drip oil. BTW, where in Oz are you? Jeff Zedic Toronto ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.338 / Virus Database: 268.7.1/348 - Release Date: 25/05/2006
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
Hi Robert,
You wrote:<< actually GROWING food or RAISING the
chickens and those folks work HARD for >>>
Couldn't agree more. My Uncle (now my cousin) has a fam in SC - that must
be one of the hardest jobs around. Long hours with low pay. He works from
4 or 5am until 9 or 10pm many days. And all that actually GROWING food or
RAISING the
chickens and those folks work HARD for expensive equipment (which is
necessary to compete) always needs maintanence.
The small farms are disappearing in this country - as little as 100 years
ago 70%-80% of the population lived in rural (i.e., farms) and now it's
reversed. Only the big corporations with huge equipment budgets and low
wages can survive. This country produces something like 60% of the *worlds*
food ! It's the more productive system ever seen but the days of the small
farm (less than 500 acres or so) is long gone.
As far as the illegal aliens coming here for work - that's a fact of life -
also, there's drug dealers and gangs coming across the border terrorizing
the US citizens living in areas where the bad guys like to go. Recently,
the Mexican army was seen on the US side of the border protecting drug
gangs! It's time to stop the traffic at the border - then deal with those
already here. But 1st, we need to secure our borders.
Anyway - have a nice weekend - it'll be here before you know it ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Robert & Tara Ludwick" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 5:18 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
The food costs are definitely subsidized by the cheap illegal labour. It
used to be ,here in Arkansas, farm families would survive on the extra
income that they could make working in the chicken plants ( since they
can't make enough to live on actually GROWING food or RAISING the
chickens and those folks work HARD for what little they get ) then a few
years back, Tyson started advertising in Mexico that they had jobs for
people coming this way ( for substantially less then he was paying the
locals ) and next thing you know Springdale looks like downtown
Tiajauna and the farm families have nowhere to turn for income (
especially since the few manufacturing options are steadily moving to
China )
Then to top it off, a bunch of years back Tyson started a deal to
supposedly help family farms put up more chicken houses to boost
production since it's hard to get financing for small farms ( I almost
signed on the line for this one...good thing my BS detector was tuned in
), so he'd finance the chicken houses and get the farmer to put up his
house land against it as his part. Well not too far down the line after
a clean out they would magically not get any new chicks for longer and
longer periods of time until they would default, loose their house , and
magically a few families of mexicans would be moved in to work the
operation for wages ( small wages )
There are already plenty of people here to do everything, just not for
nothing.
as far as food prices, the cost of organic foods are basically what food
should really cost if everyone involved were making a living wage.
-Robert
redghost wrote:
Maybe all this cheap stuff is not really in our best interest. it is
nice to be able to accumulate all sorts of garbage nobody really needs,
but when you have something you really want, do you go out and get the
least expensive version, or do you spend what it takes to get the right
item?
I am sure that Gary does not quibble about his ammo, since the cheap
stuff will mess up his guns. Or Rusty is going for least cost care for
his father. And who among us is looking for the cheap chinese parts
for our benz. These are all health and safety issues. Might be that
having all this cheap illegal labor is the same health and safety
discussion.
The illegals are not above breaking the law to succeed. Dealing drugs,
smuggling lord knows what, taking the place of native born or real
citizens in the schools and hospitals. Stealing identities and social
security numbers is not in the interest of most real Americans.
Could be that all the cheap fast food really is not good for us. The
plastic tomatoes and lettuce in that burger are really tasty, NOT! And
if we paid the real cost to procure the foods we ate, I think we would
be more discerning in what we tossed down our gullets.
If we see that importing labor is costing our local economy more than
it provides, we may see the real cost to the community. Walmart comes
in and sells us chinese junk, undercutting the local merchants and
those Main Street businesses fail, taking the other merchants, and in
the end the town.
On M
[MBZ] Nationwide tour
Many thanks to everyone for their suggestions, and special thanks to those who have invited me to stop by. Johnny B., I hope you are fortunate enough to have many, many good years with your wife as I was. We celebrated our fiftieth wedding anniversary in June of last year. Gerry Archer '83 300D and 240D -- From: Thomas Koschmieder A few odds and ends. 1.) Funnel for oil. 2.) Paper towels and cloth rags. 3.) Small medical kit. Frequently available at the outdoor places like REI, Cabelas, Whole Earth Provision Company, etc. Available also online. Of course the modern equivalent of a medical kit is a cellphone. But I prefer to have the kit anyway. You can take it with you when you go hiking. 4.) Trash bags, big strong ones. Make great "emergency" store boxes. Form fitting too. 5.) Duct tape. Thomas Koschmieder Not a Benz owner, yet. From: Craig McCluskey: Welcome, Thomas! Glad to have you on the list, after all my prodding! (Thomas and I worked for the same professor at UT Austin, he as a postdoc and me as a graduate student, so we go back a ways. He even showed up at my house in Austin to help me install the OM617 in my ex-240D.) From: "George Gregory" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Ask George Murphy From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'd suggest a complete PM before the trip, replacing any and all wear items, especially rubber, before you go. Full fluid transplants. New fuses, etc. Then all you should bring is a good basic set of tools, duct tape, baling wire, fuses and fuel filters. Maybe tubes of Shoe Goo and JB Weld. Everything else is either attainable on the road, unnecessary (as in not vital), or too damned bulky to worry about dragging along to begin with. (Snapped-off radiator neck? Won't be carrying a spare for that!) You only need to be able to somehow limp to the next big town, in space and time, so you don't need everything you might to retain full functionality. And don't forget the credit card and cell phone. A lockbox with a .357 in it wouldn't be amiss either, IMHO, to go along with your other insurance policies. From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> I'm not saying that's a bad idea (the .357 magnum), but I'd be sure of the legality of it in every state you'll be going through before packing something like that on a cross-country trip. Same goes for Tazers, pepper spray, etc. That's exactly the sort of thing that can turn a routine police stop into a trip-ending legal nightmare. Before you leave, take a printout of all of us clowns on Chuck's frapper thing. I'm sure none of us would be opposed to getting a ring when you pass through if you need a place to recharge/cleanup/car upkeep/homecooked meal etc. Bob Rentfro Outside Phoenix From: "L. Mark Finch" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Absolutely do that! I'm on what's called the Warm Showers List for touring bicyclists, and it's been a great way to meet people and vicariously participate in their journeys. If you're in our neck of the woods, by all means consider us as a stopover. From: "John W. Reames III" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> When I drove my 84 300SD back and forth 200mi/day, I kept a .50 cal ammo can with: (in addition to the MB tool pouch) -spare fuel filter -2x spare fuel prefilters -glow plug fuse -other fuses -spare (silver) relay -spare glow plug relay (winter) -Spare stop/turn/backup/side marker lamp bulbs (1 or 2 of each bulb type) -Spare voltage regulator -replacement wiper inserts -4 pr nitrile gloves -20-25 zip-ties, 11" long, minimum 30lb capacity -purple bottle castrol hand cleaner (waterless,towel-less) -"click" knife with new blade -6" crescent wrench -9" regular curved-jaw vise grips -10" crescent wrench -6" long-nose vise-grips -small (1/4" drive) metric socket set- deep sockets 7mm-12 or 13mm, 3" -extension, 6" extension, ratchet, spinner handle -4 or 6 way screwdriver -2aa cell mini maglite -spare batteries as needed -flares (4x) -compact safety vest -cheap multimeter (a la harbor freight $5 deals) You might want a pair of double open end wrenches 17mm x 19mm, a 13mm combination wrench or two, and a 3/8" ratchet with 13,15,17,19mm sockets and an extension or two or three, as well as a wonderbar or other small pry bar Outside of the box, - Spare air filter - 3-6 qts M-1 15W50 oil. - Small bottle of anti-gel - Wood jack "pad" made of three layers of 3 pcs each 1x6 pressure treated boards 18" long fastened together with spiral or ring nails - rubber truck mudflap (to lay/kneel on etc) - Coat hangar(wire) - gallon of MB antifreeze - 2 gallons washer fluid - safety triangle - Jumper cables - 3 D-Cell "people-beater" mag-lite (kept laying between the driver seat and the door, within easy reach) -AAA Plus membership card (I have been towed from alexandria to white marsh (jeep, not benz) with a failed alternator You might also want part of a scott "box of rags" (from depot), I kept about 20 or so of them rolled up in a bag I've mainly needed
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
You also need to factor in the pollution of making any replacement vehicle and all it's parts. An engineer friend figured out once how far/long he would have to drive a new truck his friends were trying to talk him into [because it got better mileage] to replace his old one that he used to drive less than 8 miles a day commuting. The energy cost to make a new truck divided into the difference in mileage came to some significant number of years. Not sure how that formula would work on pollution but probably not too different. Gotta watch those hidden costs. BillR Jacksonville FL 1981 300SD EM 276k miles, and getting a welding job today to firm up the driver's door check. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Marshall Booth Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 9:37 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic Jeff Zedic wrote: > I guess the world doesn't need people like me with my 1956 Sunbeam T20 > that still works perfectly. But your '56 Sunbeam spews out 50X the pollution that a modern car with the same power would... Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
My condolences Gerry. My wife passed away in December also. I am also "figuring out what to do with the rest of my life." I just turned 65, so I have a few years yet. At this point my kids, grandkids, AND great grandkids keep me very busy, so I don't have a lot of time to worry about it. Tom Potter -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Berryman Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 6:20 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour On May 31, 2006, at 6:23 PM, archer wrote: > Note: I'm a widower as of last December and this trip will be sort > of a > "getaway" trip to figure out what I'm going to do with the rest of > my life. > > Gerry Archer--Age 77 Good luck Gerry. I wish you many more years of happiness and good health. I can't help but feel some sadness for you losing your wife. I often ponder what life would be like without my beloved Cathy. For now I cherish every moment we are together. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Continued off topic
The energy cost to make a new truck divided into the difference in mileage came to some significant number of years. Not sure how that formula would work on pollution but probably not too different. A decent first approximation is to assume energy costs are fungible and just 'buy' fuel with the net expense of the new vehicle. I believe the lasting effects of any pollution emitted by the older vehicle will be much less than that emitted by the new vehicle production process. Which is not to say that vehicles should never be replaced, but IMHO only when they no longer suit your needs. And so long as I only surf the trailing edge I'm not particularly contributing to the industrial waste problem. (If anything, I'm delaying some of it!) Gotta watch those hidden costs. Absolutely! 1981 300SD EM 276k miles, and getting a welding job today to firm up the driver's door check. Gave the Frankenheap one of those, and it really helped a lot! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
My condolences to you, Tom. I was busy with my grandkids, but all but one has graduated from high school and gone off to college. The arrival of great-grandkids is something I hadn't considered. Thanks. Gerry - Original Message - From: "Potter, Tom E" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 8:16 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour My condolences Gerry. My wife passed away in December also. I am also "figuring out what to do with the rest of my life." I just turned 65, so I have a few years yet. At this point my kids, grandkids, AND great grandkids keep me very busy, so I don't have a lot of time to worry about it. Tom Potter On May 31, 2006, at 6:23 PM, archer wrote: Note: I'm a widower as of last December and this trip will be sort of a "getaway" trip to figure out what I'm going to do with the rest of my life. Gerry Archer--Age 77
Re: [MBZ] CL E500 in Columbus
This says a lot about high repair costs. What was the YOUNGEST of these beauties in the lot? On 5/31/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Driving home from the Pick and Pull the other day, I was just amazed at the number of new benz in third tier used car lots. One fellow seems to have hit the lottery, with seven or eight C and E class right up front. Even the last option lots have newer mercedes ready to sell. Did that many benz come off lease and fail to be able to qualify for StarMark? On Tuesday, May 30, 2006, at 05:58 AM, andrew strasfogel wrote: > That's the annual maintenance cost when out of warranty. > > My friend's "new" dealer-maintained 1999 55K miles black/charcoal E320 > already has two lights out in his first week of his ownership. > Fortunately, > it has a 30 day warranty from EuroMotorcars. Has anyone else heard > horror > stories about this model? I've been told that, no matter how well > maintained, they develop costly mechanical and electrical glitches. I > am > not including the sunroof, which tilts, slides, exposes itself, and > does > other tricks until it breaks ($2,500). I drove it around Sunday and > thought > sure, this is a very nice car with lots of bells and whistles compared > to my > 300TD, but I don't think it is worth the costly repairs that will > surely > follow... > > 1983 300TD and 1985 300CD (both "KISS" cars) > > On 5/29/06, LT Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >> But he did say, "Excellent condition E500 with approximately >> $49,000." Is >> that what is required to keep it on the road, in maintenance costs? >> >> On 5/29/06, Sunil Hari <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >>> >>> course, he doesn't list the year, mileage, or the fact that it's >>> going >> to >>> suck. >>> >>> On 5/29/06, Rick Knoble <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Not cheap. http://columbus.craigslist.org/car/165837940.html No affiliation, ect. Rick Knoble '85 300 CD '87 190 DT ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >>> >>> >>> >>> -- >>> Sunil Hari >>> 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. >>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> 513-205-7474 >>> ___ >>> http://www.striplin.net >>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] >>> >>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >>> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> "There're always enemies, George. Jesus had enemies." >> -- Tom Clancy, _Executive Orders_ >> >> 1977 240D >> 1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed >> 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle >> >> http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen >> ___ >> http://www.striplin.net >> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> >> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net >> > ___ > http://www.striplin.net > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > > -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
Took my 2000 Suburban 102k miles in the other day for a recall fix (fuel sender wires or something), they did a general inspection (to get me to OK them having at it $$$, no doubt). One of the points was that it needed a tranny flush (burned fluid). Reasonable enough I suppose, though I did change the tranny fluid a year and half ago or so. I know that does not get the TC fluid out, which continues to be old stuff. There was a bit of discussion on this flush technique a few weeks ago, sounds like an OK procedure. I am wondering though, how the tranny is set up -- does TC fluid actually mix with the pan fluid in some fashion while operating? Is draining/refilling a time or two a close enough approach to cleaning out the TC? Tranny fluid is cheap enough compared to the flush cost ($50), seems like it might do pretty close if just cleaning the fluid is the main benefit. Thoughts? --R
Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
To the best of my knowledge, changing fliud by hand is only going to change about half the fluid (what's in the pan), unless there's a drain on the torque converter. So besides not getting nice clean fluid through the cavities, you'll probably never get all the burned stuff out. (though after a few changes, one would think you might be up to a decent percentage)... Levi On 6/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Took my 2000 Suburban 102k miles in the other day for a recall fix (fuel sender wires or something), they did a general inspection (to get me to OK them having at it $$$, no doubt). One of the points was that it needed a tranny flush (burned fluid). Reasonable enough I suppose, though I did change the tranny fluid a year and half ago or so. I know that does not get the TC fluid out, which continues to be old stuff. There was a bit of discussion on this flush technique a few weeks ago, sounds like an OK procedure. I am wondering though, how the tranny is set up -- does TC fluid actually mix with the pan fluid in some fashion while operating? Is draining/refilling a time or two a close enough approach to cleaning out the TC? Tranny fluid is cheap enough compared to the flush cost ($50), seems like it might do pretty close if just cleaning the fluid is the main benefit. Thoughts? --R ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Welding driver's door check [was Re: Continued off topic]
On Thu, 1 Jun 2006 06:22:12 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > 1981 300SD EM 276k miles, and getting a welding job today to firm > > up the > > driver's door check. > > Gave the Frankenheap one of those, and it really helped a lot! > > -- Jim The bracket in the door frame that holds the driver's door check is loose on my car. I presume that that is what you're welding. So how does one do the welding? Craig
Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
set up -- does TC fluid actually mix with the pan fluid in some fashion while operating? Absolutely! The fluid is pumped into the TC, and from there circulates through the rest of the tranny before draining into the pan. Is draining/refilling a time or two a close enough approach to cleaning out the TC? Yes. The normal service interval (whatever that is) is supposed to take this dilution of new/old into account. Unless something is wrong and the fluid is being ruined early. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Welding driver's door check
The bracket in the door frame that holds the driver's door check is loose on my car. I presume that that is what you're welding. No, the door itself was rusting apart in my case, the attachment in the frame was fine. So how does one do the welding? Umm, carefully? Grab welder and weld anything that looks like it needs it. Have hose handy for putting out fires. Lots of wet towels to drape around to catch sparks. It helps, of course, if the car is a heap and you don't care what it ends up looking like. When cosmetics count things get a lot harder! -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
I think I will drain the pan (or see if the $2 sucker will work), refill, and do it again in a coupla weeks. See what that does. --R Jim Cathey wrote: set up -- does TC fluid actually mix with the pan fluid in some fashion while operating? Absolutely! The fluid is pumped into the TC, and from there circulates through the rest of the tranny before draining into the pan. Is draining/refilling a time or two a close enough approach to cleaning out the TC? Yes. The normal service interval (whatever that is) is supposed to take this dilution of new/old into account. Unless something is wrong and the fluid is being ruined early. -- Jim ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
A co-worker took his minivan to a shop. The belt squeals as I think his A/C compressor is locking up. They told him the belt was just lose and said that carbon was getting the air intake and he needed to change air filter and clean injectors for $400. Additionally they said he need new shocks and struts for $600. They actually told him that the shocks and struts need to be changed every 20,000 miles! Trampas -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:13 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush I think I will drain the pan (or see if the $2 sucker will work), refill, and do it again in a coupla weeks. See what that does. --R Jim Cathey wrote: >>set up -- does TC fluid actually mix with the pan fluid in some fashion >>while operating? >> >> > >Absolutely! The fluid is pumped into the TC, and from there circulates >through the rest of the tranny before draining into the pan. > > > >>Is draining/refilling a time or two a close enough >>approach to cleaning out the TC? >> >> > >Yes. The normal service interval (whatever that is) is supposed >to take this dilution of new/old into account. Unless something >is wrong and the fluid is being ruined early. > >-- Jim > > >___ >http://www.striplin.net >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > > > > ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
I would suggest that you consider doing the flush yourself. If you disconnect the tranny cooler lines you should be able to attach hoses onto them. Put the suction side in the container of new fluid and the pressure side into a container to catch the old stuff. Start her up and pump about 10 gallons through and you should have got out pretty well all of the old stuff. Wastes a bit of fluid but should be cheaper than having the flush done at the dealer. I would also say that in my experience the tranny in the Suburban is not terribly robust. I would change fluid often and hope for a longer tranny life. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Rich Thomas Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 11:13 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush I think I will drain the pan (or see if the $2 sucker will work), refill, and do it again in a coupla weeks. See what that does. --R Jim Cathey wrote: >>set up -- does TC fluid actually mix with the pan fluid in some fashion >>while operating? >> >> > >Absolutely! The fluid is pumped into the TC, and from there circulates >through the rest of the tranny before draining into the pan. > > > >>Is draining/refilling a time or two a close enough >>approach to cleaning out the TC? >> >> > >Yes. The normal service interval (whatever that is) is supposed >to take this dilution of new/old into account. Unless something >is wrong and the fluid is being ruined early. > >-- Jim > > >___ >http://www.striplin.net >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] > >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: >http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net > > > > ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
Hi! At what mileage did you have to change this.? just like to know what
is the life of a belt tensioner and other idler pulley's associated with it
.
mak
- Original Message -
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:01 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
Hi! Just finished replacing the components of the belt tensioner - took
about 2 hours - removed the shroud and fan then the other pieces - but I
could figure out how to get the upper pivot off - thought it was a allen
bolt but closer inspection says no. But I looked at it closely and
decided
it looked fine anyway and re-used it. The lower tensioner pivot and the
spring and damper all had play in them and the engine is much quieter now.
Glad it's over ;-)
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
___
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[MBZ] Seat repair again
I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and partially dismantled it. The spring base seems intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no paint of any sort from the factory and this is just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad is toast of course which was the reason for looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair pad and am going the "new" route. My thought was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding stuff that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair on here a while back and that fibrous plasticy stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort of light canvas type material and use it to wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to use a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down to bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides of the larger piece to provide the amount of bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original horsehair padding. I have not yet decided whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring base. It actually seems to be keeping my rear off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard or to high as the steering wheel will become more difficult to slide under. So, any comment from those that have done this? Randy B
Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked
The front end of our 83 300D wagon took a real hit yesterday. My wife's first comment was that had she been in anything else she might have been hurt. Susan was driving about 35mph when a woman in a 2007 (yes, 2007) Lexus pulled across the road; never saw my wife until they collided. Susan tried to turn into a parking lot driveway so the left front corner took the hit but the other car was moving hard enough to twist the front end of our car. The front passenger side door opens but with slight resistance; oil started running out but not before she cut the car off. I'm assuming it was the oil cooler. The other driver took responsibility for the incident. We want to get the car fixed. Any where I can post some pictures? We want to have it repaired jf we can. This really puts a kink in our summer plans. One of our children is getting married in three weeks and moving to Texas. My wife needs a wagon to do all the wedding stuff as well as get our daughter's house ready to sell - all that 80 to 100 miles away from where we live. We were also planning to take the wagon to Oshkosh in July. Richard Murdoch 82 240D 82 300TDt (maybe) 83 300D parts car 79 240D waiting for transplant
Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked
glad to hear your wife is ok - #1 concern. the insurance company will probably try to total your car and give you $2000 for it. If this happens, hire legal representation and stick it to them. On 6/1/06, Richard Murdoch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: The front end of our 83 300D wagon took a real hit yesterday. My wife's first comment was that had she been in anything else she might have been hurt. Susan was driving about 35mph when a woman in a 2007 (yes, 2007) Lexus pulled across the road; never saw my wife until they collided. Susan tried to turn into a parking lot driveway so the left front corner took the hit but the other car was moving hard enough to twist the front end of our car. The front passenger side door opens but with slight resistance; oil started running out but not before she cut the car off. I'm assuming it was the oil cooler. The other driver took responsibility for the incident. We want to get the car fixed. Any where I can post some pictures? We want to have it repaired jf we can. This really puts a kink in our summer plans. One of our children is getting married in three weeks and moving to Texas. My wife needs a wagon to do all the wedding stuff as well as get our daughter's house ready to sell - all that 80 to 100 miles away from where we live. We were also planning to take the wagon to Oshkosh in July. Richard Murdoch 82 240D 82 300TDt (maybe) 83 300D parts car 79 240D waiting for transplant ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Go to Meijer or Wal-Mart and buy a twin bed-size egg-crate mattress pad. The size happens to be -exactly- the right size for restuffing a 115 seat. One pad should be enough to restuff both passenger seats and the bench seat in the back (but you'll be out of foam before you redo the rear seat backrest, which will probably be fine anyway). I did this repair two years ago with great success - seats felt better than any other 115 seat I've plunked down in. They, along with the engine, were the best parts of my 240D. On 6/1/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and partially dismantled it. The spring base seems intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no paint of any sort from the factory and this is just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad is toast of course which was the reason for looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair pad and am going the "new" route. My thought was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding stuff that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair on here a while back and that fibrous plasticy stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort of light canvas type material and use it to wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to use a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down to bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides of the larger piece to provide the amount of bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original horsehair padding. I have not yet decided whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring base. It actually seems to be keeping my rear off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard or to high as the steering wheel will become more difficult to slide under. So, any comment from those that have done this? Randy B ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Go to the Walmart and by those floaty styra foam things the kids use in the pools, noodles they are called. Cut them up and stuff them between all the springs.. Helps\ Tom - Original Message - From: "Sunil Hari" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 1:34 PM Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again Go to Meijer or Wal-Mart and buy a twin bed-size egg-crate mattress pad. The size happens to be -exactly- the right size for restuffing a 115 seat. One pad should be enough to restuff both passenger seats and the bench seat in the back (but you'll be out of foam before you redo the rear seat backrest, which will probably be fine anyway). I did this repair two years ago with great success - seats felt better than any other 115 seat I've plunked down in. They, along with the engine, were the best parts of my 240D. On 6/1/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and partially dismantled it. The spring base seems intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no paint of any sort from the factory and this is just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad is toast of course which was the reason for looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair pad and am going the "new" route. My thought was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding stuff that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair on here a while back and that fibrous plasticy stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort of light canvas type material and use it to wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to use a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down to bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides of the larger piece to provide the amount of bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original horsehair padding. I have not yet decided whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring base. It actually seems to be keeping my rear off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard or to high as the steering wheel will become more difficult to slide under. So, any comment from those that have done this? Randy B ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi. [EMAIL PROTECTED] 513-205-7474 ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
M.Afzaal Khan wrote: Hi! At what mileage did you have to change this.? just like to know what is the life of a belt tensioner and other idler pulley's associated with it The original tensioner arms and idlers used on '84-'85 OM60x engines seldom lasted more than 50-75kmi. The later ones seemed good for 75-150kmi. By the '90s they may still be better (the aftermarket ones MAY not be - I haven't had any of them in long enough to know). Factory shocks seem to last 75+kmi while aftermarket ones seem more likely to fail by 50kmi. The belts on my cars seem to go for 75kmi as long as the arm and idler are in good working order (a bad arm, idler, shock or any belt driven accessory will cause a belt to fail prematurely). YMMV as climatic and environmental factors DO play a role in life of these parts. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked
The front passenger side door opens but with slight resistance... We want to get the car fixed. With damage all the way back into the door, I don't think there's any way you'll be getting that car fixed. Body work just costs too much. DIY you could maybe whack it into drivable shape, but she'll never be the same. Time to start shopping for another one I think. Was yours a particularly fine example, or are others like it available on the market? -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] Nationwide tour
On Jun 1, 2006, at 7:46 AM, archer wrote: Johnny B., I hope you are fortunate enough to have many, many good years with your wife as I was. We celebrated our fiftieth wedding anniversary in June of last year. Gerry Archer Thank-You Gerry. I'll take as much time with her as is humanly possible. I am truly blessed to know Cathy. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Welding driver's door check [was Re: Continued off topic]
That is the spot. Mine was cracking out from the corners. I did it the easy way - took it to an auto body shop I use. They welded and repainted it for me gratis [but I am a regular customer]. Guy sanded to bare metal and welded up the cracks, then painted the area [not a great paint job, but also not exactly visible most of the time]. The price was right. BillR 1981 300SD EM 276k, and now with a solid door check bracket. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Craig McCluskey Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 10:30 AM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: [MBZ] Welding driver's door check [was Re: Continued off topic] On Thu, 1 Jun 2006 06:22:12 -0700 Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > 1981 300SD EM 276k miles, and getting a welding job today to firm > > up the > > driver's door check. > > Gave the Frankenheap one of those, and it really helped a lot! > > -- Jim The bracket in the door frame that holds the driver's door check is loose on my car. I presume that that is what you're welding. So how does one do the welding? Craig ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] CA-spec '85 300D transmission?
Marshall Booth wrote: The earlier 722.3 transmissions will work on '85 cars, but the '85 722.3 transmission won't fit onto an earlier car/engine. I'm NOT sure about the 722.416 transmissions from '85 California certified 300D/TD/CD/SDs, but they do have a high stall speed torque converters and the earlier transmissions with a torque converter with much lower stall speed would make the car feel REALLY sluggish and slow at low speeds. Thanks Marshall; glad to see that I had the early/85 interchange backwards. I forgot about the stall speed change. Wonder if the later TC can be mated to an earlier transmission? There are not a lot of '85 722.416 transmissions floating around. Especially here in the midwest, alas. Tom
Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked
On Jun 1, 2006, at 1:26 PM, Richard Murdoch wrote: This really puts a kink in our summer plans. One of our children is getting married in three weeks and moving to Texas. My wife needs a wagon to do all the wedding stuff as well as get our daughter's house ready to sell - all that 80 to 100 miles away from where we live. We were also planning to take the wagon to Oshkosh in July. Richard Murdoch Bummer Rich, glad your wife's OK. I have an OK wagon that sprung a slight leak in the rear suspension. My buddy's Mom was thinking about buying it. It has a few spots of rust through and some ugly surface rust on the LR door. 202,000mi runs great shifts great. I did a lot of work to it last year and I really don't recall all that I had done. It will need a driveshaft center bearing (noisy) but other than that and the suspension leak (probably a steel line haven't looked yet), I'd drive it anywhere. I'm in NY. I also have another wagon that definitely neds some lines for susp in the back, that I can be convinced to sell but would prefer not to on short notice. If interested, call (518)526-2279 me pronto or e-mail me [EMAIL PROTECTED] privately. I just got put on stand-by from FEMA for the New Hampshire/Massachusetts floods. I will be un-subbing and out of here within 24-48 hours. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked
Richard, Glad Susan is OK. Give me a call sometime and we can discuss available TD's. I agree with the lister that says yours is dead. Too bad, as it was a beautiful car. Doubt that you would be satisfied with just any old rustbucket (c: . If the door is binding on the passenger side after the driver's side was hit, there is pretty severe frame damage. Too bad. You still need that cam on my shop desk? It is rapidly going to find a new home. Richard (the Salisbury one) --- Richard Murdoch <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The front end of our 83 300D wagon took a real hit yesterday. My > wife's first comment was that had she been in anything else she might > have been hurt. > > Susan was driving about 35mph when a woman in a 2007 (yes, 2007) > Lexus pulled across the road; never saw my wife until they collided. > Susan tried to turn into a parking lot driveway so the left front > corner took the hit but the other car was moving hard enough to twist > the front end of our car. > > The front passenger side door opens but with slight resistance; oil > started running out but not before she cut the car off. I'm assuming > it was the oil cooler. > > The other driver took responsibility for the incident. > > We want to get the car fixed. > > Any where I can post some pictures? We want to have it repaired jf > we can. > > This really puts a kink in our summer plans. One of our children is > getting married in three weeks and moving to Texas. My wife needs a > wagon to do all the wedding stuff as well as get our daughter's house > ready to sell - all that 80 to 100 miles away from where we live. > We were also planning to take the wagon to Oshkosh in July. > > Richard Murdoch > 82 240D > 82 300TDt (maybe) > 83 300D parts car > 79 240D waiting for transplant > > __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
R A Bennell wrote: I would suggest that you consider doing the flush yourself. If you disconnect the tranny cooler lines you should be able to attach hoses onto them. Put the suction side in the container of new fluid and the pressure side into a container to catch the old stuff. Start her up and pump about 10 gallons through and you should have got out pretty well all of the old stuff. Wastes a bit of fluid but should be cheaper than having the flush done at the dealer. This only works if the "suction side" actually "sucks"! On some cars there *is* no suction, they rely on pressure to push the oil through the cooler and back into the trans.
Re: [MBZ] CA-spec '85 300D transmission?
tom savage wrote: Marshall Booth wrote: The earlier 722.3 transmissions will work on '85 cars, but the '85 722.3 transmission won't fit onto an earlier car/engine. I'm NOT sure about the 722.416 transmissions from '85 California certified 300D/TD/CD/SDs, but they do have a high stall speed torque converters and the earlier transmissions with a torque converter with much lower stall speed would make the car feel REALLY sluggish and slow at low speeds. Thanks Marshall; glad to see that I had the early/85 interchange backwards. I forgot about the stall speed change. Wonder if the later TC can be mated to an earlier transmission? People have tried everything in the world to use the later transmission or torque converter on earlier engines but they can't be easily modified (even by really experienced/creative mechanics). There are not a lot of '85 722.416 transmissions floating around. Especially here in the midwest, alas. Tom Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
[MBZ] The hits just keep on a comin'
OK Y'all, Its been real and its been fun but Mother Nature is still pissed off and I just got my stand-by call from FEMA to work the New Hampshire/ Massachusetts floods. This means that I will be Haulin' Ass no doubt within 24-48 hours. It should not be too long in duration but I must commit to a minimum of 21 days, working 16-20 hours a day. I will not have the time or internet access to deal with the numerous posts from these forums. I will be un-subbing shortly. I apologize for any unfinished business and will resume upon my return. Fred Moir, thank-you very much. The package arrived only 2 days after you sent it. I would like to pay you for the lamp and shipping. If you have a PayPal account I could do it today. If not, I still have your home addy and will have Cathy mail you a check. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
I replaced my tensioner components at 104k Miles - for me, it's easier to
change all the pieces at once - also, since the lower pivot can really
damage things if it breaks - it's the critical piece. It should be changed
as soon as you can see it is now longer aligned with the belt - it will cock
closer to the engine.
Also - to check the lower tensioner - look at it while the engine idles -
you can use a long sturdy screwdriver to pry the tensioner back into
alignment -
To change everything was ~$200 in parts from Rusty.
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "Marshall Booth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
M.Afzaal Khan wrote:
Hi! At what mileage did you have to change this.? just like to know
what
is the life of a belt tensioner and other idler pulley's associated with
it
The original tensioner arms and idlers used on '84-'85 OM60x engines
seldom lasted more than 50-75kmi. The later ones seemed good for
75-150kmi. By the '90s they may still be better (the aftermarket ones
MAY not be - I haven't had any of them in long enough to know). Factory
shocks seem to last 75+kmi while aftermarket ones seem more likely to
fail by 50kmi. The belts on my cars seem to go for 75kmi as long as the
arm and idler are in good working order (a bad arm, idler, shock or any
belt driven accessory will cause a belt to fail prematurely).
YMMV as climatic and environmental factors DO play a role in life of
these parts.
Marshall
--
Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)
___
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [MBZ] CA-spec '85 300D transmission?
On Jun 1, 2006, at 3:07 PM, Marshall Booth wrote: People have tried everything in the world to use the later transmission or torque converter on earlier engines but they can't be easily modified (even by really experienced/creative mechanics). I was always under the impression that the trans can be used with an earlier torque convertor (without the extended pilot). I never did need to find out for sure. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Randy,
One thing to keep in mind - When you are assembling things - make sure
you include additional padding on each side of the seat - you want your butt
to be *cradled* in the middle of the seat - else you'll be sliding back and
forth. The tendency to make the surface close to flat will result in an
uncomfortable seating position -
Good luck -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:57 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Seat repair again
I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and
partially dismantled it. The spring base seems
intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no paint
of any sort from the factory and this is
just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad is
toast of course which was the reason for
looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair pad
and am going the "new" route. My thought
was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding stuff
that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't
recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair on
here a while back and that fibrous plasticy
stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort of
light canvas type material and use it to
wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to use
a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous
stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down to
bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the
fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides of
the larger piece to provide the amount of
bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original
horsehair padding. I have not yet decided
whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring base.
It actually seems to be keeping my rear
off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard or to
high as the steering wheel will become
more difficult to slide under.
So, any comment from those that have done this?
Randy B
___
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Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
Use a big funnel and pour into the "suction side" if you have to. Randy B -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of David Brodbeck Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:05 PM To: Mercedes Discussion List Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush R A Bennell wrote: > I would suggest that you consider doing the flush yourself. If you disconnect > the tranny cooler lines you should be > able to attach hoses onto them. Put the suction side in the container of new > fluid and the pressure side into a > container to catch the old stuff. Start her up and pump about 10 gallons > through and you should have got out pretty > well all of the old stuff. Wastes a bit of fluid but should be cheaper than > having the flush done at the dealer. > This only works if the "suction side" actually "sucks"! On some cars there *is* no suction, they rely on pressure to push the oil through the cooler and back into the trans. ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Randy, what's wrong with ordering an OEM pad from Rusty? Are they that
expensive? Yours is a great looking W115 300D so why do something
un-original when fixing it?
On 6/1/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Randy,
One thing to keep in mind - When you are assembling things - make sure
you include additional padding on each side of the seat - you want your
butt
to be *cradled* in the middle of the seat - else you'll be sliding back
and
forth. The tendency to make the surface close to flat will result in an
uncomfortable seating position -
Good luck -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:57 PM
Subject: [MBZ] Seat repair again
>I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and
>partially dismantled it. The spring base seems
> intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no
paint
> of any sort from the factory and this is
> just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad is
> toast of course which was the reason for
> looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair
pad
> and am going the "new" route. My thought
> was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding
stuff
> that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't
> recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair on
> here a while back and that fibrous plasticy
> stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort of
> light canvas type material and use it to
> wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to
use
> a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous
> stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down to
> bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the
> fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides
of
> the larger piece to provide the amount of
> bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original
> horsehair padding. I have not yet decided
> whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring base.
> It actually seems to be keeping my rear
> off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard or
to
> high as the steering wheel will become
> more difficult to slide under.
> So, any comment from those that have done this?
>
> Randy B
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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[MBZ] Porsche in PnP
Went to the PnP today in search of toys. Saw that the pen held a baby blue 914. Wonder how long that will take to strip. Bet it would make a good platform for a 4x4 -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz
Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
Ned wrote:<< I've done it with as little as a new manifold gasket>>
Thanks Ned,
I'm ordering parts - I'm getting the 2 intake manifold/crossover pipe
gaskets, new fuel pipe clips and new GPs.
Is there anything else I should have on hand? I already have 1/4" & 3/8"
torque wrenches - but it sounds like it'll be easier if I get some wobble
sockets or extensions -
Except for having a minature mechanic in my tool box - is there anything I'm
forgetting? Is any gasket compound recommended for the intake manifold
gasket or does it go on dry?
Thanks for your and others comments -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message -
From: "ned kleinhenz" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Diesel List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, May 31, 2006 8:50 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Install - 91 300D 2.5
Larry:
I agree with everything the others posted about what to have ready.
I've done it with as little as a new manifold gasket. But I don't
recommend
going that economically.
But I might add that a torque wrence is useful for getting the mainfold
back
on tight enough without
stripping the aluminum head. My 606 engine uses torx (sp?) type bolts to
fasten the manifold - so be ready in case that is what your engine has. I
bought what seems to be a good enough 1/4" torque wrench from Harbor
Freight
for ~$10 IIRC.
Ned Kleinhenz
___
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Re: [MBZ] Porsche in PnP
You're a sick man. Please seek help. On 6/1/06, redghost <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Went to the PnP today in search of toys. Saw that the pen held a baby blue 914. Wonder how long that will take to strip. Bet it would make a good platform for a 4x4 Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state" '87 300TD intercooler #22 (215k) '84 300D (213k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/sideview-2_5-29-06.jpg
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
No, they are not all that expensive, if I recall. I just wondered if I could
actually improve it with modern stuff.
I'm also in the situation where I will ultimately need to replace the seat
upholstery as there is already one small
hole in the MB Tex from the spring rubbing where the horsehair had
disintigrated. I am reluctant to change the
upholstery for fear the color won't quite match and am prepared to live with
the fairly minor damage for now. If
and when I do that, I will think harder about putting the original style
horsehair back in. Momentarily, I am just
trying to make the driver's seat more comfortable and not do it any more harm.
I'm not a radical but I am not a
purist. I don't object to changes if they are equal or better than the original
and don't make it look silly.
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 3:23 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Randy, what's wrong with ordering an OEM pad from Rusty? Are they that
expensive? Yours is a great looking W115 300D so why do something
un-original when fixing it?
On 6/1/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Randy,
>One thing to keep in mind - When you are assembling things - make sure
> you include additional padding on each side of the seat - you want your
> butt
> to be *cradled* in the middle of the seat - else you'll be sliding back
> and
> forth. The tendency to make the surface close to flat will result in an
> uncomfortable seating position -
>
> Good luck -
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)
>
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> - Original Message -
> From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:57 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] Seat repair again
>
>
> >I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and
> >partially dismantled it. The spring base seems
> > intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no
> paint
> > of any sort from the factory and this is
> > just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad is
> > toast of course which was the reason for
> > looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair
> pad
> > and am going the "new" route. My thought
> > was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding
> stuff
> > that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't
> > recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair on
> > here a while back and that fibrous plasticy
> > stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort of
> > light canvas type material and use it to
> > wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to
> use
> > a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous
> > stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down to
> > bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the
> > fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides
> of
> > the larger piece to provide the amount of
> > bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original
> > horsehair padding. I have not yet decided
> > whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring base.
> > It actually seems to be keeping my rear
> > off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard or
> to
> > high as the steering wheel will become
> > more difficult to slide under.
> > So, any comment from those that have done this?
> >
> > Randy B
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components
Here's a quick rule of thumb when replacing the serpentine belt. Check the operation of all the drive components, idler, tensioner and so on. If any of these have excessive play or are noisy, replace it. They don't always last the life of the car so its a good bet to replace them if you car has high mileage. my 2 cents 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles 72 350SL 108,000 Miles 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion 1999 Mazda Miata -Original Message- From: Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thu, 01 Jun 2006 14:04:12 -0400 Subject: Re: [MBZ] Serpentine Belt Tensioner Components M.Afzaal Khan wrote: > Hi! At what mileage did you have to change this.? just like to know what > is the life of a belt tensioner and other idler pulley's associated with it The original tensioner arms and idlers used on '84-'85 OM60x engines seldom lasted more than 50-75kmi. The later ones seemed good for 75-150kmi. By the '90s they may still be better (the aftermarket ones MAY not be - I haven't had any of them in long enough to know). Factory shocks seem to last 75+kmi while aftermarket ones seem more likely to fail by 50kmi. The belts on my cars seem to go for 75kmi as long as the arm and idler are in good working order (a bad arm, idler, shock or any belt driven accessory will cause a belt to fail prematurely). YMMV as climatic and environmental factors DO play a role in life of these parts. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ Try the New Netscape Mail Today! Virtually Spam-Free | More Storage | Import Your Contact List http://mail.netscape.com
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Any upholstery shop should be able to fix MB-Tex passably well. Also, I
don't recommend side bolstering - the MB-Tex has acquired a certain shape
after 30 years. To try and change that is inviting tears and general
disaster.
On 6/1/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
No, they are not all that expensive, if I recall. I just wondered if I
could actually improve it with modern stuff.
I'm also in the situation where I will ultimately need to replace the seat
upholstery as there is already one small
hole in the MB Tex from the spring rubbing where the horsehair had
disintigrated. I am reluctant to change the
upholstery for fear the color won't quite match and am prepared to live
with the fairly minor damage for now. If
and when I do that, I will think harder about putting the original style
horsehair back in. Momentarily, I am just
trying to make the driver's seat more comfortable and not do it any more
harm. I'm not a radical but I am not a
purist. I don't object to changes if they are equal or better than the
original and don't make it look silly.
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 3:23 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Randy, what's wrong with ordering an OEM pad from Rusty? Are they that
expensive? Yours is a great looking W115 300D so why do something
un-original when fixing it?
On 6/1/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Randy,
>One thing to keep in mind - When you are assembling things - make
sure
> you include additional padding on each side of the seat - you want your
> butt
> to be *cradled* in the middle of the seat - else you'll be sliding back
> and
> forth. The tendency to make the surface close to flat will result in an
> uncomfortable seating position -
>
> Good luck -
>
> Sincerely,
> Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)
>
> A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> - Original Message -
> From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:57 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] Seat repair again
>
>
> >I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and
> >partially dismantled it. The spring base seems
> > intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no
> paint
> > of any sort from the factory and this is
> > just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad
is
> > toast of course which was the reason for
> > looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair
> pad
> > and am going the "new" route. My thought
> > was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding
> stuff
> > that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't
> > recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair
on
> > here a while back and that fibrous plasticy
> > stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort
of
> > light canvas type material and use it to
> > wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to
> use
> > a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous
> > stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down
to
> > bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the
> > fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides
> of
> > the larger piece to provide the amount of
> > bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original
> > horsehair padding. I have not yet decided
> > whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring
base.
> > It actually seems to be keeping my rear
> > off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard
or
> to
> > high as the steering wheel will become
> > more difficult to slide under.
> > So, any comment from those that have done this?
> >
> > Randy B
> >
> >
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>
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For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
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Re: [MBZ] The hits just keep on a comin'
Johnny B. - I've got a sister and a few nephews and nieces in that neck of the woods. Be careful up there and take care of the folks. BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of John Berryman Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 2:57 PM To: Mercedes Dicussion List Cc: Banned List Subject: [MBZ] The hits just keep on a comin' OK Y'all, Its been real and its been fun but Mother Nature is still pissed off and I just got my stand-by call from FEMA to work the New Hampshire/ Massachusetts floods. This means that I will be Haulin' Ass no doubt within 24-48 hours. It should not be too long in duration but I must commit to a minimum of 21 days, working 16-20 hours a day. I will not have the time or internet access to deal with the numerous posts from these forums. I will be un-subbing shortly. I apologize for any unfinished business and will resume upon my return. Fred Moir, thank-you very much. The package arrived only 2 days after you sent it. I would like to pay you for the lamp and shipping. If you have a PayPal account I could do it today. If not, I still have your home addy and will have Cathy mail you a check. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] ODO REPAIR
Anybody know name/address of speedometer repair shop? Can't do it myself. Wilton
Re: [MBZ] ODO REPAIR
Just saved this one: http://www.odometergears.com/ BillR -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of wilton strickland Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 6:03 PM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] ODO REPAIR Anybody know name/address of speedometer repair shop? Can't do it myself. Wilton ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked
On Thu, 1 Jun 2006, Sunil Hari wrote: > the insurance company will probably try to total your car and give you $2000 > for it. If this happens, hire legal representation and stick it to them. Two words: NADA Classics. Have receipts too btw, but since it isnt on KBB anymore, its NADA classic only... NADA classics show $4450 for a turd, $7775 for "average" and $11350 for a REALLY good example... You should get somewhere in between high and mid for it at least.. Thats a good start on a replacement. -j.
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
What I meant by bolstering the sides is just to add some of the same padding
material on the sides to sort of shape
it like the horsehair pad. I assume, looking at the horsehair pad that the
sides and front were thicker than the
centre portion. I'm not looking to make modern Recaro seats out of the remains
of my old seat.
Randy B
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Sunil Hari
Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 4:18 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Any upholstery shop should be able to fix MB-Tex passably well. Also, I
don't recommend side bolstering - the MB-Tex has acquired a certain shape
after 30 years. To try and change that is inviting tears and general
disaster.
On 6/1/06, R A Bennell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> No, they are not all that expensive, if I recall. I just wondered if I
> could actually improve it with modern stuff.
> I'm also in the situation where I will ultimately need to replace the seat
> upholstery as there is already one small
> hole in the MB Tex from the spring rubbing where the horsehair had
> disintigrated. I am reluctant to change the
> upholstery for fear the color won't quite match and am prepared to live
> with the fairly minor damage for now. If
> and when I do that, I will think harder about putting the original style
> horsehair back in. Momentarily, I am just
> trying to make the driver's seat more comfortable and not do it any more
> harm. I'm not a radical but I am not a
> purist. I don't object to changes if they are equal or better than the
> original and don't make it look silly.
>
> Randy B
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of andrew strasfogel
> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 3:23 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
>
>
> Randy, what's wrong with ordering an OEM pad from Rusty? Are they that
> expensive? Yours is a great looking W115 300D so why do something
> un-original when fixing it?
>
> On 6/1/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Randy,
> >One thing to keep in mind - When you are assembling things - make
> sure
> > you include additional padding on each side of the seat - you want your
> > butt
> > to be *cradled* in the middle of the seat - else you'll be sliding back
> > and
> > forth. The tendency to make the surface close to flat will result in an
> > uncomfortable seating position -
> >
> > Good luck -
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo, 78 240D)
> >
> > A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
> > For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
> > Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
> > http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
> > - Original Message -
> > From: "R A Bennell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 12:57 PM
> > Subject: [MBZ] Seat repair again
> >
> >
> > >I finally hauled the driver's seat out of my 76 300D last night and
> > >partially dismantled it. The spring base seems
> > > intact but has quite a bit of surface rust on it. I assume it had no
> > paint
> > > of any sort from the factory and this is
> > > just the result of 30 year's exposure to humidity etc. Horsehair pad
> is
> > > toast of course which was the reason for
> > > looking into this issue. I have decided not to obtain a new horsehair
> > pad
> > > and am going the "new" route. My thought
> > > was to use a piece of carpet to insulate the new replacement padding
> > stuff
> > > that I picked up at Wally Mart. Can't
> > > recall the name but there was mention of a writeup about seat repair
> on
> > > here a while back and that fibrous plasticy
> > > stuff is what the fellow used. I am now thinking I may find some sort
> of
> > > light canvas type material and use it to
> > > wrap over the piece of carpet to hold it in place and to permit me to
> > use
> > > a spray adhesive to hold the fibrous
> > > stuff in place. In the writeup the fellow used pool noodles cut down
> to
> > > bolster the sides. I'm thinking that the
> > > fibrous stuff should be sufficient if I glue some more onto the sides
> > of
> > > the larger piece to provide the amount of
> > > bolster needed. There does not seem to be much bolster in the original
> > > horsehair padding. I have not yet decided
> > > whether I should try to stuff pool noodle material into the spring
> base.
> > > It actually seems to be keeping my rear
> > > off of the floor as it is and I don't want to make the seat too hard
> or
> > to
> > > high as the steering wheel will become
> > > more difficult to slide under.
> > > So, any comment from those that have done this?
> > >
> > > Randy B
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ___
> > > http://www.striplin.net
> > > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > >
Re: [MBZ] The hits just keep on a comin'
On Jun 1, 2006, at 5:44 PM, BillR wrote: Be careful up there and take care of the folks. BillR I'll do my best. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am
Re: [MBZ] OT: List wisdom re: Sub tranny flush
unless you drill a hole in the TC, all the fluid will stay in it (unless you let it sit six or so months, and then only half will drain out...). The "flush" techique uses the cooler lines -- one to spill out, the other to suck fresh fluid in. Works well, with the normal caveat -- an old, high milage, tranny will sometimes fail immediately after getting fresh fluid. Not a problem if you've been changing it, but something to watch out for. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Seat repair again
Egg-crate sleeping bag mat is the way to go. I also used a thin closed-cell foam pad under the two layers of egg-crate on the rear seat of my brother's 75 300D. Get them at Target or K-Mart, the ones at Wally World are too cheesy. Cut to fit just larger than the springs with the "points" up, then fit another peice on top, points down, large enough to wrap around the front edge and fold under -- it needs to stick out an inch and a half or so -- as close to the size of the original pad as possible (you can use the cover as a pattern). Get a picking out needle at the craft store and sew and glue the overlapped part down to hold shape. A chunk of thin (3/8") closed cell foam pad underneath won't hurt, and you can use it to raise the sides, too. Won't be perfect, but beats sitting on the springs six ways to sunday! Peter
Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked
Be careful, Johnny B. Bob Rentfro - Original Message - From: "John Berryman" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 11:33 AM Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300TDt -wrecked On Jun 1, 2006, at 1:26 PM, Richard Murdoch wrote: This really puts a kink in our summer plans. One of our children is getting married in three weeks and moving to Texas. My wife needs a wagon to do all the wedding stuff as well as get our daughter's house ready to sell - all that 80 to 100 miles away from where we live. We were also planning to take the wagon to Oshkosh in July. Richard Murdoch Bummer Rich, glad your wife's OK. I have an OK wagon that sprung a slight leak in the rear suspension. My buddy's Mom was thinking about buying it. It has a few spots of rust through and some ugly surface rust on the LR door. 202,000mi runs great shifts great. I did a lot of work to it last year and I really don't recall all that I had done. It will need a driveshaft center bearing (noisy) but other than that and the suspension leak (probably a steel line haven't looked yet), I'd drive it anywhere. I'm in NY. I also have another wagon that definitely neds some lines for susp in the back, that I can be convinced to sell but would prefer not to on short notice. If interested, call (518)526-2279 me pronto or e-mail me [EMAIL PROTECTED] privately. I just got put on stand-by from FEMA for the New Hampshire/Massachusetts floods. I will be un-subbing and out of here within 24-48 hours. Johnny B. I Mac Therefore I am ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Fw: dan caron clan registration
- Original Message - = From: Shelly Wiens = To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] = Sent: Thursday, June 01, 2006 11:02 AM Subject: dan caron clan registration -- next part -- A non-text attachment was scrubbed... Name: REGISTRATION & INFO.RTF Type: application/octet-stream Size: 5698 bytes Desc: not available Url : http://striplin.net/pipermail/mercedes_striplin.net/attachments/20060= 601/bf800320/REGISTRATIONINFO.obj
