Re: [MBZ] 90's 300TDt 0-60 times (14 seconds)

[Marshall Booth]

Jim Cathey wrote:

The boost curve (at full load) should rise from essentially no boost to
8 bar boost between 1200 and 2000 rpm and then remain at or slightly
above 8 bar all the way out to 4000+ rpm with just a little droop at 
the

as you reach the 5000+ limit.


Impressive!  The most boost I'm aware of is some of the Cummins
rodders that run about 4 Bar into the four-digit horsepower range.
(Or was that 0.8 Bar?  :-)



800 millibar or 0.8 bar. Not sure how I omitted the "0." but thats the 
way I sent it.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] 90's 300TDt 0-60 times (14 seconds)

[Jim Cathey]

I guess Im going to have to start resoldering these things.


Enjoy!  The hand cramps and numbness are pleasant, as is
working with paint stripper.  Hunching over to see close
work is also good therapy on the back.

I just opened a junkyard unit that had been commercially
repaired.  Doesn't look like they'd removed the varnish
before soldering, it's nasty looking.  Not really a job
to be proud of, IMHO.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] [Banned] ok, how big a pos is this

[M. Mitchell Marmel]

At 6:11 PM -0500 8/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

attatched are additional pics of rust


Run, don't walk.

-MMM-

Re: [MBZ] Temp Gauge Vs Stuck Thermostat

[Marshall Booth]

alan wrote:
My temp gauge is running on the cold side, a bit above 40 C, it used to 
run at 100 C.  I figure it is either the sensor it's self or a 
thermostat stuck open.  Any thought on how to proceed would be appreciated?


Usually it's a stuck thermostat, but any excess resistance in the 
sensor/temp gauge circuit results in a low reading. I had one car that 
consistently read about 20 degrees low for many years. Engine temps were 
actually fine. Thermostats stuck open are MUCH more common.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

[MBZ] 300E transmission, in a 300D?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Will a 300E tranny work in a 300D 2.5 turbo?  The 190 trans will, 
correct?  Also, would that same 300E trans work in a 190D?

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

[MBZ] OT, quick books

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

which is the newest version of quick books/quicken whatever? Or, which 
is the best version.

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 240D with side pipes

[Marshall Booth]

Mitch Haley wrote:

Youtube video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IZNXvK7DMc

It's a 617.95 turbo engine. Exhaust or air intake resistance are NOT 
limiting factors so making the exhaust bigger or reducing air intake 
resistance to less than factory values won't buy you anything in terms 
of power or acceleration. The turbo boost limit is THE limit.


With a standard sized exhaust the air entering is about 0.7--0.75 bar. 
If you increase the exhaust diameter to 4 or 6 or even 8 inches, the air 
entering the engine will be at 0.7-0.75 bar and the power will be the 
same (you might cut 0.1 sec out of a 14 sec 0-62 mph acceleration run - 
MAYBE). Same when a fresh stock air filter is compared to NO air filter 
at all! Intake and exhaust resistance are NOT limiting!


You may get a bigger but still small improvement (0.5 sec) with a 
normally aspirated diesel by reducing intake and exhaust resistance 
reductions.


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 
190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired)

Re: [MBZ] A/C on the cheap (126, 210, 124)

[archer]

That sounds possible, but what would you do about running the radiator fan 
and the inside blower?

Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



How about just turning an auto AC compressor with an aux. engine,
instead of generating electricity with the aux engine? Could a second
compressor be plumbed into the AC coolant lines so that you could put
a second compressor and it's 7 HP engine in the trunk, or hanging off
the rear bumper?

On 8/6/06, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

archer wrote:
>
> I've been thinking about the same thing for my '83 300D housecar except 
> that
> I envision a vented motor generator in the trunk and the window unit in 
> the
> trunk or the back window.  The idea would be to have A/C while sleeping 
> in
> the housecar during the summer months.  I wonder what the BTU output of 
> the
> auto A/C unit is?  The old auto A/C units were supposed to require 7 
> HP, but

> that sounds high.

Let's say you pay $400 for a window A/C and a 1kw genny.
Now you've got to find some way to mount the A/C on the level (probably 
take
it out of the trunk and stick it in the window every night, with some 
kind

of brackets so it hangs like a drive-in restaraunt tray). Then you have
to carry gasoline and listen to the little genny scream all night at 
3600rpm.
If you stay at campgrounds with electric outlets, it gets a bit more 
feasible.


Instead of giving up half your trunk to A/C, genny, and gasoline, why not
let the diesel idle with the A/C on? The old VW Rabbits ran about 1 pint
per hour at idle, I'm guessing a 617 would be more like 3 pints to a half
gallon with the A/C on, but that might not be any worse than a 3hp 
generator.

If you really want to know, put the fuel intake and return lines in a 2L
soda bottle and see how long the car runs (with the engine already warm
and the interior already cooled). You should be able to shut it off after
sundown unless the weather is really hot.

Mitch. 

Re: [MBZ] A/C on the cheap (126, 210, 124)

[archer]

It would be nice to have a diesel unit like that and run it off the main 
tank, but it might be a little heavy sitting behind the back axle.


The back window would be removed, the A/C unit positioned on the back shelf, 
and the area where the glass was missing covered with galvanized or aluminum 
sheet metal.fitted into the grommet and sealed.  Clearance for the trunk to 
open might be a problem.  Not an easy job, but probably doable.Gerry





rumor has it that archer wrote:

I've been thinking about the same thing for my '83 300D housecar
except that  I envision a vented motor generator in the trunk and
the window unit in the  trunk or the back window.


Onan and others make generators specifically for the RV market. These
are devices with no fuel tank (draw from the host), compact,
engineered to be in close spaces, etc.

If you buy new, there are a bit more money than a utility generator -
but there's always ebay.

--   Philip, trying to imagine a window AC unit mounted in a W123 trunk.

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Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[Chris]

Quicken is for home finances, Quickbooks is for a business.  I just bought 
QB 2006 Pro because my old one was no longer supported.  The more expensive 
version has stuff I wouldn't use anyway.  With Quickbooks 2006, you could 
track each car as a job, with costs and income assigned to it, so you could 
see where you make the most money.  Most business people already kinda know 
the stuff QB shows you, but it is good to get hard numbers.


Chris K
Cayce, SC

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 9:06 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT, quick books



which is the newest version of quick books/quicken whatever? Or, which
is the best version.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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[MBZ] ATTN Jim Cathey: KLIMA failure mode

[Brian Smyla]

Hi, Jim

 

Noticed you were looking for KLIMA failure modes.  My '89 560SEL unit had a
cracked solder connection on the board at the compressor clutch output pin
that caused intermittent shutdown of the A/C.  Reflowing the solder resolved
the issue.

 

-brian

 

[MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[Christopher McCann]

FYI, don't ever try to get an iron T-post out of the ground by pulling on it 
really hard. They can snap, causing a blood fountain to come out of your head, 
followed by a 7.5 hour trip to the ER and 10 staples in your head.
 
 Pretty much ruined my weekend.
 
 CM
 
 P.S. The most soothing part (aside from ice chips when I nearly fainted) was 
the sound of the turbo charger spooling up on the Powerchoke engine of the 
ambulance. The driver noticed my cars and a lively conversation ensued on the 
greatness of old diesel Benzes.
 

Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 215K, "Wulf"
-1982 300Dt, 117K, "little blue klatter box"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

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Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 21:50:38 -0600
From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
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On Sun, 06 Aug 2006 22:33:38 -0400 Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Mitch Haley wrote:
> > Youtube video:
> > http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9IZNXvK7DMc
> > 
> It's a 617.95 turbo engine. Exhaust or air intake resistance are NOT 
> limiting factors so making the exhaust bigger ... won't buy you anything
> in terms  of power or acceleration. The turbo boost limit is THE limit.

I would guess the effect of reducing the exhaust restrictioin depends upon
the amount of valve opening overlap and the extent of the exhaust
scavenging provided by the turbo. Any idea how much they are?


Craig

Re: [MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[Chuck Landenberger]

Chris...

Hope all is well with you when you get around to reading this  
post.


And ready to get back on the "horse" so to speak.

Take care an get well,

Chuck
Phoenix AZ
On Aug 6, 2006, at 8:47 PM, Christopher McCann wrote:

FYI, don't ever try to get an iron T-post out of the ground by  
pulling on it really hard. They can snap, causing a blood fountain  
to come out of your head, followed by a 7.5 hour trip to the ER and  
10 staples in your head.


 Pretty much ruined my weekend.

 CM

 P.S. The most soothing part (aside from ice chips when I nearly  
fainted) was the sound of the turbo charger spooling up on the  
Powerchoke engine of the ambulance. The driver noticed my cars and  
a lively conversation ensued on the greatness of old diesel Benzes.



Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 215K, "Wulf"
-1982 300Dt, 117K, "little blue klatter box"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

-
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Re: [MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[OK Don]

Ummm - right.
OUCH 
Glad you survived to learn the lesson. When you recover, and need to
remove another T-post, use a lever.
1 - it's easier,
2 - you are several feet away from the post.

I grab an eight foot (should be feet, but it sounds wrong) 2X4, some
rope to tie it to the T-post, and an empty 5 gal can to use as a
fulcrum. The greatest danger is from splinters.


On 8/6/06, Christopher McCann <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

FYI, don't ever try to get an iron T-post out of the ground by pulling on it 
really hard. They can snap, causing a blood fountain to come out of your head, 
followed by a 7.5 hour trip to the ER and 10 staples in your head.

 Pretty much ruined my weekend.

 CM

 P.S. The most soothing part (aside from ice chips when I nearly fainted) was 
the sound of the turbo charger spooling up on the Powerchoke engine of the 
ambulance. The driver noticed my cars and a lively conversation ensued on the 
greatness of old diesel Benzes.


Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 215K, "Wulf"
-1982 300Dt, 117K, "little blue klatter box"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

-
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--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

[MBZ] R-12 holder

[redghost]

http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/zip/190902692.html

free, not mine

clay

Re: [MBZ] 201 Status

[Jim Cathey]

I installed the repaired cruise control amplifier.  Then I removed the
solar battery charger that I'd hard-wired in to the car, my wife had 
been

complaining about it sitting on her seat!

Next, I removed the Hirschmann 6000EL antenna.  It looked OK inside,
and the belt was intact.  Removing the motor connectors from the PCB I
could apply power direct to the motor and it ran.  I removed the mast,
and found it to be intact, but dirty and sticky.  I spent considerable
time sluicing it out with acetone, trying to free it up.  It's
significantly better now, but I may not be done with this process.

The antenna's circuit board is built with three IC's: a CMOS 40106
Schmitt trigger hex inverter, a CMOS 4060 14-stage ripple counter, and
a 555 timer.  There are four power transistors, and six signal
transistors as well, as well as the expected crop of diodes,
resistors, and capacitors.  There is one power resistor that is
probably for motor current sensing.

On the way to church the cruise performed properly.  But on the way
back it would work, and then get into this neck-snapping throttle
yanking cycle.  I suspect that its internal gain resistor(s) are wrong
for a stick shift, it was too regular (and intermittent) for it to be
still bad soldering, etc.  Need to research this I guess.

I dug into my box of spare cruise amplifiers, and didn't find what I
needed.  I have one manny-tranny vacuum box, but no slushbox models
with the same PCB layout, so inferring the differences from the vacuum
circuit is no good.  And, of course, no manny-tranny servomotor boxes.
(If I had one, I'd just use it.)

I tried the antenna out, and it's completely dead.  The paint stripper
I use for cruise amplifiers is methylene-chloride-free, and did not
even dent the RTV coating that's on the antenna board.  I did some
searching, and it appears that methylene chloride itself will attack
RTV.  Got to find some, I guess.

But as I don't _have_ any methylene chloride, and whereas I
_do_ have some other solvents, I thought I'd try some of the
others first.  I placed the board in a glass dish and put a puddle of
Xylene in it just deep enough to cover the bottom of the board.
(Xylene can be used to thin RTV on application.)  I then covered the
dish to retard evaporation.  I let it sit for an hour and then
scrubbed it with a wire brush.  The Xylene softened up the RTV enough
that a lot of it scrubbed off the board.  Another two dips and scrubs
finished the job.  Then I washed off the board with running water and
a scrub brush, and dried it.

Unfortunately resoldering had no effect on the board.  What's worse,
it was difficult to do, since it is a tightly-packed double-sided
(at least) board.

So I started probing around with the 'scope.  The 4060 counter gets a
665 Hz clock on it for several seconds after power-up.  No doubt
this is part of the initial retraction logic (since the switch was
disconnected at that time).  When the switch is (virtually) set to UP,
the counter again got a clock for a time.  Also at this time the 555
timer pin 2 (trigger) voltage begins to sink, and after a few seconds
it fires.  When the switch is set to DOWN the clock again runs for a
time.  In other words the circuit appears to be reacting to stimulus
OK.  The two big heat sinks are home to the motor's 'H' drive, and
each sink is common to the collectors of a complementary NPN/PNP pair
of BD437/438 power transistors, and to one of the two motor pins.  Two
of the transistors have a small base voltage on them which goes away
when the motor is supposed to be running (at least in one direction).
None of the transistors is getting power, however, and for an H drive
the PNP transistors' emitters should be very positive.  The big
resistor in the center of the board is intact, as are the two
mid-sized 39-ohm units.  Because of the density of the board, the
encapsulation, the presence of the looming heat sinks, and its
multi-sidedness it is extremely difficult to trace out the circuit.  I
wonder if I have a working antenna to compare with in the parts box?
Something is definitely wrong with the heavy drive power supply on the
board.  I know that the board senses motor current draw to stop
running when the antenna mast hits its stops, no doubt this is what is
broken.  More later, I hope.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 8/6/2006 8:48:17 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

FYI,  don't ever try to get an iron T-post out of the ground by pulling on it 
really  hard. They can snap, causing a blood fountain to come out of your 
head,  followed by a 7.5 hour trip to the ER and 10 staples in your  head.

Pretty much ruined my  weekend.

CM



Chris,
 
Sorry for your " premature acceleration" of said post!  That' very  
comparable to pulling tacks with a screwdriver, from a sign, at eye level!   
Luckily, 
my vision returned within a few days.  
 
Best regards,  

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 262 K miles 
98 ML 320, 143 K  miles

Re: [MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[Mitch Haley]

Christopher McCann wrote:
> 
> FYI, don't ever try to get an iron T-post out of the ground by pulling on it 
> really hard.
> They can snap, causing a blood fountain to come out of your head, followed by 
> a 7.5 hour
> trip to the ER and 10 staples in your head.

If you do it a lot, there are commercial tools for pulling them. Basically a 
lever linked
to a prop with a hinge, and the short end of the lever had a gripper for the 
post on it.
Myself, I just wrap a log chain around the post a couple of times and lift it 
with the
loader on the tractor.

Re: [MBZ] Dr. Z & Daimler-Chrysler commercial

[Potter, Tom E]

I drove a Kia Optima rental car on a recent business trip, and I thought
it was a bit sluggish. The fit and finish seemed decent, though I did
not do a close inspection.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of LT Don
Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 10:15 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dr. Z & Daimler-Chrysler commercial

Not necessarily. The big Kia cars are almost a clone of the C-Class.

I'd have to check the crash tests to be sure, though.

http://www.internetautoguide.com/crash-tests/09-int/2006/mercedes-benz/c
-class/index.html

http://www.motortrend.com/cars/2006/kia/optima/safety/index.html

D.

On 8/5/06, Hendrik Riessen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Prediction- If you are in a major accident driving a Korean or Chinese
car
> you are gonna die.
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "David Brodbeck" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Saturday, August 05, 2006 12:52 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Dr. Z & Daimler-Chrysler commercial
>
>
> > LT Don wrote:
> >> Prediction -- about the time I am too old to drive anymore, the
Koreans
> >> will
> >> be able to lay claim to what was once "Benz" quality. Owning a Kia
now
> >> will
> >> be like having owned an early 1970s Honda -- ashamed to drive it
but
> you
> >> have a good car.
> >>
> >
> > Another prediction: I think the Chinese are about to do to the
Koreans
> > what the Koreans are doing to the Japanese.
> >
> >
> > ___
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-- 
Proudly marching to the beat of a different kettle of fish.

BIODIESEL -- no oil war required.

1977 240D
1983 VW Quantum turbo diesel 5-speed
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
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Re: [MBZ] e: [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage

[Curt Raymond]

By amazing I really mean a helluva lot more than anybody really needs. All that 
power in the Dakota is good for is ruining tires.
  The flathead Ford V8 that everybody thinks was the best thing in the world 
wound out to less than 100hp in stock form I believe.
  150hp is a much more sane number and with satisfactory gearing (6 speed 
manual) would be plenty.
  In fact I'm now considering when the aging 318ci in my Dakota needs replacing 
trying a 4BT swap. Figuring on a 130-140HP engine that makes 300lb/ft of 
torque, should be plenty powerful and get 25-30mpg.
   
  People whine all the time about a truck not being fast enough and those are 
largely the same people whining about gas prices being too high. Can't have it 
both ways.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 08:30:58 -0400
From: "Mike Canfield" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] e:  [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage
 issues
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
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230 is AMAZING horsepower?  You must be kidding right?

Mike



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Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 06:32:18 -0700 (PDT)
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] FWD: electrical warning
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Mark me down as a frequent inverter user. At camp we use 'em to charge 
batteries for cordless tools and lately to run fans and keep the camp cool, any 
time battery power isn't quite enough and the generator is overkill.
   
  Many people use 'em full time for house power. There are diodes on PV arrays 
to keep power from backfeeding out of the batteries at night, I've never heard 
of one burning out...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 07:13:00 -0700
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FWD: electrical warning
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
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> It is my belief that the inverter was faulty and caused a spike to 
> flow back from the laptop, through the inverter and kill the diode.  
I 
> will never use an inverter or allow one to be attached to any of my 
> vehicles in the future as a result.

It sounds more like a freak occurrence to me.  I've used inverters 
numerous
times with no ill effects.  Maybe it was a particularly cheap and nasty
inverter?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 300E transmission, in a 300D?

[Zeitgeist]

I've been wondering about the same thing.  It'll definitely bolt up, but I
think the valve body will need to be swapped (if possible).

On 8/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Will a 300E tranny work in a 300D 2.5 turbo?  The 190 trans will,
correct?  Also, would that same 300E trans work in a 190D?



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] e: [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage

[Jim Cathey]

  People whine all the time about a truck not being fast enough and 
those are largely the same people whining about gas prices being too 
high. Can't have it both ways.


You can, of course, with a diesel.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] FWD: electrical warning

[Mike Canfield]

I use a Xantrex 700 inverter nearly everyday to power tools out in my 
junkyard and run all of the lighting and music for my workshop at night. 
That particular inverter may have been at fault but don't worry, it's not a 
common problem at all.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 9:32 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FWD: electrical warning


Mark me down as a frequent inverter user. At camp we use 'em to charge 
batteries for cordless tools and lately to run fans and keep the camp 
cool, any time battery power isn't quite enough and the generator is 
overkill.


 Many people use 'em full time for house power. There are diodes on PV 
arrays to keep power from backfeeding out of the batteries at night, I've 
never heard of one burning out...


 -Curt

 Date: Sat, 5 Aug 2006 07:13:00 -0700
From: Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] FWD: electrical warning
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed


It is my belief that the inverter was faulty and caused a spike to
flow back from the laptop, through the inverter and kill the diode.

I

will never use an inverter or allow one to be attached to any of my
vehicles in the future as a result.


It sounds more like a freak occurrence to me.  I've used inverters
numerous
times with no ill effects.  Maybe it was a particularly cheap and nasty
inverter?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] e: [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage

[Mitch Haley]

Curt Raymond wrote:
> 
> By amazing I really mean a helluva lot more than anybody really needs. All 
> that power in the Dakota is good for is ruining tires.

In 1987, my dad bought a '85 Chevy with manny tranny and 4.3L V6. It was as
powerful as the '76 with 350 4bbl it replaced, and got noticeably better mpg.
That was an advance, we gained 4wd and 4mpg without giving anything up. 

What I miss are the small cars and small pickups with small prices and small
fuel consumption. Park a 1981 Escort on the scales, and then follow it up
with a 2007 Focus. Remember mini pickups in the 1970's? They gave way to 
vehicles like the Ranger and S-10, which got upstaged by the larger Dakota,
and then all three proceeded to grow incrementally until the Ranger and 
Colorado weigh as much as a 1985 full size pickup, and generally have more
power. The Dakota would have been considered portly for a full size truck 
twenty years ago. But I don't think we could go back. If somebody made a 
2100lb pickup with no back seat option and a 50 hp diesel would anybody
want it today, even if it got 50 mpg?

Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

can you use QB for both your business and home stuff all in the same deal?

Chris wrote:
Quicken is for home finances, Quickbooks is for a business.  I just bought 
QB 2006 Pro because my old one was no longer supported.  The more expensive 
version has stuff I wouldn't use anyway.  With Quickbooks 2006, you could 
track each car as a job, with costs and income assigned to it, so you could 
see where you make the most money.  Most business people already kinda know 
the stuff QB shows you, but it is good to get hard numbers.


Chris K
Cayce, SC

- Original Message - 
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Mailing List" 
Sent: Sunday, August 06, 2006 9:06 PM
Subject: [MBZ] OT, quick books




which is the newest version of quick books/quicken whatever? Or, which
is the best version.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] e: [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage

[Mitch Haley]

Jim Cathey wrote:
> 
> >   People whine all the time about a truck not being fast enough and
> > those are largely the same people whining about gas prices being too
> > high. Can't have it both ways.
> 
> You can, of course, with a diesel.


Provided, of course, you don't actually drive it fast. 
If you use that power, the fuel goes right out the tailpipe.

Re: [MBZ] 300E transmission, in a 300D?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

I think its just the vacuum modulator that has to be changed

Zeitgeist wrote:


I've been wondering about the same thing.  It'll definitely bolt up, but I
think the valve body will need to be swapped (if possible).

On 8/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Will a 300E tranny work in a 300D 2.5 turbo?  The 190 trans will,
correct?  Also, would that same 300E trans work in a 190D?




Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG
___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] [Fwd: '85 300D Front sway/torsion bar replacement]

[Gary Thompson]

I've swapped sway bars in a 1984 300D in less than 3 hours from start
to beer, and I'm not that fast. Done it about three times now, though.
It's really not as bad as it looks.

Looks like the others have already mentioned everything that needs to
be removed. Note that you only have to unbolt the brake booster from
the firewall, and not actually remove any of the brake lines. Three
screws down under the driver's kick panel, and gently pull the booster
away from the firewall enough to get the bar by it.

The worst part is getting the darn upper control arms and the sway bar
back together with new bushings. I've settled on finding a longer bolt
that will fit the sway bar end. Use the longer bolt to get everything
started and squeezed together a bit, remove the longer bolt carefully,
and use the correct length bolt to finish up. Be sure and torque this
bolt down to spec. I've had it back out on me before, and it makes for
some seriously squirelly handling!


Gary Thompson
1995 E320


On 8/4/06, Fmiser <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I took one out of an 81 240 in about 3hr. A couple weeks later, I did
a full swap in a 183 300D in about 6hr.

Re: [MBZ] e: [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yea, I bet people would if it was also cheap

Mitch Haley wrote:


Curt Raymond wrote:


By amazing I really mean a helluva lot more than anybody really needs. All that 
power in the Dakota is good for is ruining tires.



In 1987, my dad bought a '85 Chevy with manny tranny and 4.3L V6. It was as
powerful as the '76 with 350 4bbl it replaced, and got noticeably better mpg.
That was an advance, we gained 4wd and 4mpg without giving anything up. 


What I miss are the small cars and small pickups with small prices and small
fuel consumption. Park a 1981 Escort on the scales, and then follow it up
with a 2007 Focus. Remember mini pickups in the 1970's? They gave way to 
vehicles like the Ranger and S-10, which got upstaged by the larger Dakota,
and then all three proceeded to grow incrementally until the Ranger and 
Colorado weigh as much as a 1985 full size pickup, and generally have more
power. The Dakota would have been considered portly for a full size truck 
twenty years ago. But I don't think we could go back. If somebody made a 
2100lb pickup with no back seat option and a 50 hp diesel would anybody

want it today, even if it got 50 mpg?

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[Mitch Haley]

"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> 
> can you use QB for both your business and home stuff all in the same deal?
> 

I would strongly recommend setting up your home and your business as
separate companies in QB. Commingling finances just makes like difficult
for whoever does your taxes. Ideally, all business proceeds would be
deposited in a business bank account, and all draws would be in the
form of checks to Kaleb or Regina. For example, don't buy groceries
with the business account, draw it out in your name and then buy
groceries with it. If you must put your money into the business,
make sure you credit the transaction to a capital or drawing account,
in QB, don't count it as revenue. If you can track your cash flows
accurately, then doing your taxes is as simple as putting the QB
income statement on schedule C and adding interest and depreciation.

Mitch.

Re: [MBZ] AC on the cheap

[Curt Raymond]

We've got a camp back in the woods and last year I picked up a propane heated 
camp shower. Uses about 1lb of propane and 8 d-cell batteries (2 sets) for 20 
long showers. One of the best things I've ever bought for the camp. I think it 
was just over $100.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Sun, 6 Aug 2006 09:41:40 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] AC on the cheap
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

 Add a porta-potti and you're 
self-contained except for a shower, which you can easily rig up using 
a sink sprayer routed to the rear of the van and by suspending an 
opaque shower curtain around the outside of the lifted hatch. I spend 
about 2 months per year in mine, and love it. Just got one for my 
folks, who are about your age, and they love theirs just as much.

Dan



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"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> 
> yea, I bet people would if it was also cheap

I'm thinking $12k stripped, $15k loaded should be feasible if you
stick to 2wd.

Re: [MBZ] 300E transmission, in a 300D?

[Zeitgeist]

I believe the gasser's shift points in the valve body are significantly
higher at WOT than a diesel.

On 8/7/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I think its just the vacuum modulator that has to be changed



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yea, I would want it seperate, I didnt know if it could be set up 
seperate in the same program, quickbooks.  Or if I would have to get 
quickbooks for the business and quicken for the home.


Mitch Haley wrote:

"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:


can you use QB for both your business and home stuff all in the same deal?




I would strongly recommend setting up your home and your business as
separate companies in QB. Commingling finances just makes like difficult
for whoever does your taxes. Ideally, all business proceeds would be
deposited in a business bank account, and all draws would be in the
form of checks to Kaleb or Regina. For example, don't buy groceries
with the business account, draw it out in your name and then buy
groceries with it. If you must put your money into the business,
make sure you credit the transaction to a capital or drawing account,
in QB, don't count it as revenue. If you can track your cash flows
accurately, then doing your taxes is as simple as putting the QB
income statement on schedule C and adding interest and depreciation.

Mitch.

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

mine seems to stay on all the time even though the oil level is fine.

Jim Cathey wrote:


thats better.  So refresh my memory again in case I wasnt paying
attention.  So you repaired one of these?  What was it doing that 
caused

it to need to be repaired?



Yes.  The symptom is a dash light that reacts to the raw sensor
information, signaling low oil on left-hand (?) turns.  The 60-second
delay is inoperative.  Apparently there are more than a few out there
that start doing this.

-- Jim


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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
 85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Zeitgeist]

Just for SaG, I soldered in bridges for those broken traces to see if I
could temporarily resurrect this thing, but it still didn't work.  The burnt
looking resistor registers continuity across, but since it's so discolored,
I can't tell by its banding whether the resistance values are correct.  I
have neither the cranial capacity, nor equipment to run any further tests,
so this sucker's toast as far as I'm concerned.

On 8/5/06, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Well, I may have a dead KLIMA to add to your pile.

 Opened up the KLIMA and found what looks like a burnt resister and at
least two broken traces.  Ordered a new one from Rusty, because I really
need to get the car back on the road--like yesterday!



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

[MBZ] Small Diesel PU

[Frederick Moir]

Hi, All.
  I've had two small diesel pickups. A Toyota Hi-Lux, with a suspiciously MBZ 
type engine, that #1 son killed by holing #3 piston and the input shaft bearing 
failed in the 5 speed, plus his 3 accidents. (sigh). The other was the VW 
Rabbit PU, it succumbed to rust and I wore out the engine. It would take off of 
its' own accord with lots of smoke. Help! Stand on the brakes and get it under 
sixty and continue, cautiously. Shouldda used M1!
  If "they" made, or at least IMPORTED, a decent small diesel pickup, I'd buy 
one, being a city dweller don't ya know.
  Klatta on!
  Fred Moir
  Lynn MA
  Diesel Rules!


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Subject: [MBZ] OT: UK answer to fuel costs
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http://tinyurl.com/hoaxa

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Jim Cathey]

have neither the cranial capacity, nor equipment to run any further 
tests,

so this sucker's toast as far as I'm concerned.


Mmmm, toast!  Send it my way, maybe we'll learn something?

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[Mitch Haley]

"Kaleb C. Striplin" wrote:
> 
> yea, I would want it seperate, I didnt know if it could be set up
> seperate in the same program, quickbooks.  Or if I would have to get
> quickbooks for the business and quicken for the home.

You will need to set up each entity separately, with its own database,
but you will not need to buy multiple software packages. BTW, one of
my clients uses quicken for both of their corporations. I don't use
quicken, so I just print out their quicken check registers and have
our receptionist enter their checks in our software, but I bet you
could produce financial statements in quicken good enough to base
your schedule C upon. 
Mitch.

Re: [MBZ] OM60X low-oil circuit board

[Jim Cathey]

mine seems to stay on all the time even though the oil level is fine.


Could be a number of other failure modes, starting with a bad sender.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] e: [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage

[Jim Cathey]

Provided, of course, you don't actually drive it fast.
If you use that power, the fuel goes right out the tailpipe.


Discipline, grasshopper!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Small Diesel PU

[Mitch Haley]

Frederick Moir wrote:
>  VW Rabbit PU, it succumbed to rust and I wore out the engine. It would take 
> off of its'
> own accord with lots of smoke. Help! Stand on the brakes and get it under 
> sixty and
> continue, cautiously. Shouldda used M1!

My brother owned a $200 rabbit that did that on occasion. I always figured 
blowby
oil would puddle in the air filter housing until the engine swallowed it in a 
gulp. 
His would go 45-50mph with no fuel when it happened.

Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[dave walton]

Quicken Home and Business is adequate for many small businesses. Too
often, I see companies using QuickBooks that could get by with
Quicken, and companies using SBT, Great Plains, Accountmate or
whatever, that could get by just fine with QuickBooks. Some people
seem to think it is a good thing to pay WAAAY too much for an
accounting system with features they will never ever use - just in
case they get 1000 times larger and want to go Public or some such
nonsense. If you categorize correctly, there is NO PROBLEM intermixing
personal and company expenses in the same accounts and same company
files. I've been through an IRS audit (in person) and that was never
an issue as long as the reports showed what they wanted to see and I
could produce the receipts requested to document it. How they (and
you) handle Inventory is the area that often determines which is best.

-Dave Walton

On 8/6/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

which is the newest version of quick books/quicken whatever? Or, which
is the best version.
--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 420SEL, 87 300SDL,
  85 380SE, 85 300D, 84 190D 2.2, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D,
  76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 73 280SEL 4.5, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] mileage

[Curt Raymond]

But what about something the size of a Colorado with a 120hp/250lbft torque 
diesel getting 30mpg? The 4cyl gas Colorado breaks 20mpg making it the most 
fuel efficient 4wd pickup in my admittedly not terribly through survey of 
pickups on sale right now so 30mpg with a small diesel seems doable. Thats a 
truck I'd be very interested in.
   
  My '96 v8 Dakota was rated for 17mpg highway, I'm shocked to read that 
today's v8 Dakota with a smaller engine is rated at 20mpg. The Durango is rated 
for 18mpg and based on a trip to NJ in my friend's thats very generous, I'd bet 
his got closer to 14mpg empty.
   
  Of course I expect a large part of it is culture. The Dodge hemi commercials 
are a good example. I care not how fast my pickup can go, when I want to go 
fast I get on my motorcycle. My pickup is for carrying things, my motorcycle is 
for going fast, my car is for commuting. MOST people don't need pickup trucks. 
I have a farm and a camp and snowmobiles. I only barely need a pickup and in 
fact the one I need isn't made any more. I need a small pickup that gets good 
mileage. I don't care how fast it goes from 0-60 as long as its around my 190D. 
I need it to have ground clearance and 4wd for traveling REAL offroads where we 
snowmobile or plant trees or hunt deer or haul rocks etc. My truck works and 
gets the snot beat out of it. That said I'm considering replacing it with a 
Suzuki Samurai because I also own a trailer...
   
  -Curt
   
   
  Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 10:11:32 -0400
From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] e:  [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Curt Raymond wrote:
> 
> By amazing I really mean a helluva lot more than anybody really 
needs. All that power in the Dakota is good for is ruining tires.

In 1987, my dad bought a '85 Chevy with manny tranny and 4.3L V6. It 
was as
powerful as the '76 with 350 4bbl it replaced, and got noticeably 
better mpg.
That was an advance, we gained 4wd and 4mpg without giving anything up. 

What I miss are the small cars and small pickups with small prices and 
small
fuel consumption. Park a 1981 Escort on the scales, and then follow it 
up
with a 2007 Focus. Remember mini pickups in the 1970's? They gave way 
to 
vehicles like the Ranger and S-10, which got upstaged by the larger 
Dakota,
and then all three proceeded to grow incrementally until the Ranger and 
Colorado weigh as much as a 1985 full size pickup, and generally have 
more
power. The Dakota would have been considered portly for a full size 
truck 
twenty years ago. But I don't think we could go back. If somebody made 
a 
2100lb pickup with no back seat option and a 50 hp diesel would anybody
want it today, even if it got 50 mpg?



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Subject: [MBZ] Replacing the return lines -postmortem
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Hi all,
  If you remember last week you might remember my replacing the fuel return 
lines on my 190D after one fell off on my morning commute.
  Yesterday I filled the tank after 461 miles and was SHOCKED when the pump 
shut off.  I was looking around and when the pump handle thunked my head 
snapped around like it was on a spring, my internal clock KNEW it was way too 
early. Indeed I'd only put in 10.3 gallons... Work that one out.
  Apparently those lines had been leaking a little bit for a long time.
   
  -Curt


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[MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap

[Dan Weeks]

We've got a camp back in the woods and last year I picked up a 
propane heated camp shower. Uses about 1lb of propane and 8 d-cell 
batteries (2 sets) for 20 long showers. One of the best things I've 
ever bought for the camp. I think it was just over $100.


  -Curt

Curt:

Glad to hear you like yours. I'd seen those rigs, and been tempted. 
Now I'm gonna get one for my westy before my next long trip and I 
will be driving an entirely self-contained diesel pusher RV that gets 
27-29 mpg. Wooo hooo!



--
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k

Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[Mitch Haley]

dave walton wrote:
>  If you categorize correctly, there is NO PROBLEM intermixing
> personal and company expenses in the same accounts and same company
> files. 

But our clients invariably screw it up if they do their own data entry,
and if it's co-mingled, there's no way to straighten it out short of
asking them, transaction by transaction, "what's this check for"?
That doesn't really work either, because they don't remember why
they wrote a check eight months ago. (unless they used the
memo line on the check and have a copy of it handy)

If the client does not do the data entry, then I don't know what
accounts to distribute the transactions to if it's co-mingled. 

BTW, Kaleb, if the business owes money, establish a debt account
(credit balance) for the beginning balance, and then all your payments
can be debits to that account. At year end, you will have to credit
the account to bring the balance back up to actual. The offset to
that credit will be a debit to interest expense. Bingo, you've just
calculated your interest expense on the truck or whatever.

Re: [MBZ] Replacing the return lines -postmortem

[Mitch Haley]

Curt Raymond wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>   If you remember last week you might remember my replacing the fuel return 
> lines on my 190D after one fell off on my morning commute.
>   Yesterday I filled the tank after 461 miles and... Indeed I'd only put in 
> 10.3 gallons..

Is this a 2.5 turbo/automatic?
There's a fellow on mercedesshop who replaced the dead tranny in a turbo with
a 5sp OD and brags about getting 39mpg on long trips at a steady 75-80mph. 
When/if I ever get mine put together with a non-OD 5sp I'm hoping for 45mpg
at 55-60mph. It'll have a more efficient turbo than stock and no torque
converter loss.

Re: [MBZ] OT, quick books

[dave walton]

Me thinks you should try to find smarter clients :-)
There is NO HOPE for dumb ones, trust me. They are the ones that will
try to get away with paying for personal expenses from their business
accounts and think they won't get caught because the accounts are
separate. Yea right, like the IRS has not figured that one out by
now...

-Dave Walton


On 8/7/06, Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

dave walton wrote:
>  If you categorize correctly, there is NO PROBLEM intermixing
> personal and company expenses in the same accounts and same company
> files.

But our clients invariably screw it up if they do their own data entry,
and if it's co-mingled, there's no way to straighten it out short of
asking them, transaction by transaction, "what's this check for"?
That doesn't really work either, because they don't remember why
they wrote a check eight months ago. (unless they used the
memo line on the check and have a copy of it handy)

If the client does not do the data entry, then I don't know what
accounts to distribute the transactions to if it's co-mingled.

BTW, Kaleb, if the business owes money, establish a debt account
(credit balance) for the beginning balance, and then all your payments
can be debits to that account. At year end, you will have to credit
the account to bring the balance back up to actual. The offset to
that credit will be a debit to interest expense. Bingo, you've just
calculated your interest expense on the truck or whatever.

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Re: [MBZ] Small Diesel PU

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

VW made a splash shield on the later models  
http://www.greaseworks.org/index.php?module=pncommerce&func=itemview&ItemID=10

and changed the way it exits the valve cover to stop that bit of excitement.

-Robert

Frederick Moir wrote:


Hi, All.
  I've had two small diesel pickups. A Toyota Hi-Lux, with a suspiciously MBZ 
type engine, that #1 son killed by holing #3 piston and the input shaft bearing 
failed in the 5 speed, plus his 3 accidents. (sigh). The other was the VW 
Rabbit PU, it succumbed to rust and I wore out the engine. It would take off of 
its' own accord with lots of smoke. Help! Stand on the brakes and get it under 
sixty and continue, cautiously. Shouldda used M1!
  If "they" made, or at least IMPORTED, a decent small diesel pickup, I'd buy 
one, being a city dweller don't ya know.
  Klatta on!
  Fred Moir
  Lynn MA
  Diesel Rules!


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Re: [MBZ] 201 Status

[Jim Cathey]

I dug out another Hirschmann 6000EL.  It doesn't work either, but at
least it tries.  The circuit board seems cooked, and it sometimes
breaks out into oscillation, and the output of the H drive is
sometimes at an intermediate voltage.  Bad power transistor(s)?  Not
good.  But at least the bridge is getting power, so I might be able to
use it to learn something.  It does sorta try to work, at times.  The
wires from the connector are charred where they touched the heat
sinks, and the heat sinks have oxidation on them.  Not good signs!

Ohming out the not-quite-so-bad (cooked) board resulted in finding
that the H bridge got power directly through a diode yet the bad board
did not, although the diode itself was OK.  Examining the bad board
through a strong light (the cooked board is currently nearly opaque),
it appeared that a trace must have been fried, because there sure
didn't seem to be any other circuitry along the way to where there was
no longer any continuity.  Jumpering over the suspected blown trace
resulted in shorted power.  There was a BZT03C18 Zener diode right
there at the new jumper point between the H bridge power terminal and
ground, and it ohmed out nearly zero in both directions.  I removed
the diode to find it indeed shorted, and with it removed the antenna
started to work.  The diode's rated at 18V 25mA, and it appears to be
just a spiking clamp, so I ought to be able to substitute something.
(Not that the part is all that expensive, but waiting for it would be
a pain.)

Digging around in the parts box I found a batch of 6.2V Zeners, so I
strung three of them in series to replace the dead one.  That was
tedious, but ultimately successful.  With the Zener string and the
jumper for the dead trace in place the antenna started working.  Woo
hoo!  Y'know, I'd heard somewhere that the circuit detected motor
stall current to shut off, in addition to a timeout, but I've really
seen no sign of such circuitry.  Unless the one big power resistor is
hooked into the ground side of the bridge.  Oh well...

I installed the antenna back in the car, and it works!  Good, another
vital road trip item to check off.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] mileage

[Mike Canfield]

Curt,
 Now you're talking something I know.  Suzuki Samurai's..Might I 
suggest a tintop Sidekick for pulling a trailer.  Samurai's are not good 
trailer pullers and do not get very good mileage.  The EFI models are barely 
capable of pulling themselves let alone a trailer and the carbed models are 
even worse.


Mike
- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 11:28 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] mileage


But what about something the size of a Colorado with a 120hp/250lbft 
torque diesel getting 30mpg? The 4cyl gas Colorado breaks 20mpg making it 
the most fuel efficient 4wd pickup in my admittedly not terribly through 
survey of pickups on sale right now so 30mpg with a small diesel seems 
doable. Thats a truck I'd be very interested in.


 My '96 v8 Dakota was rated for 17mpg highway, I'm shocked to read that 
today's v8 Dakota with a smaller engine is rated at 20mpg. The Durango is 
rated for 18mpg and based on a trip to NJ in my friend's thats very 
generous, I'd bet his got closer to 14mpg empty.


 Of course I expect a large part of it is culture. The Dodge hemi 
commercials are a good example. I care not how fast my pickup can go, when 
I want to go fast I get on my motorcycle. My pickup is for carrying 
things, my motorcycle is for going fast, my car is for commuting. MOST 
people don't need pickup trucks. I have a farm and a camp and snowmobiles. 
I only barely need a pickup and in fact the one I need isn't made any 
more. I need a small pickup that gets good mileage. I don't care how fast 
it goes from 0-60 as long as its around my 190D. I need it to have ground 
clearance and 4wd for traveling REAL offroads where we snowmobile or plant 
trees or hunt deer or haul rocks etc. My truck works and gets the snot 
beat out of it. That said I'm considering replacing it with a Suzuki 
Samurai because I also own a trailer...


 -Curt


 Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 10:11:32 -0400
From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] e:  [MBZ WAS ] Anyone Have Carfax? NOW mileage
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Curt Raymond wrote:


By amazing I really mean a helluva lot more than anybody really

needs. All that power in the Dakota is good for is ruining tires.

In 1987, my dad bought a '85 Chevy with manny tranny and 4.3L V6. It
was as
powerful as the '76 with 350 4bbl it replaced, and got noticeably
better mpg.
That was an advance, we gained 4wd and 4mpg without giving anything up.

What I miss are the small cars and small pickups with small prices and
small
fuel consumption. Park a 1981 Escort on the scales, and then follow it
up
with a 2007 Focus. Remember mini pickups in the 1970's? They gave way
to
vehicles like the Ranger and S-10, which got upstaged by the larger
Dakota,
and then all three proceeded to grow incrementally until the Ranger and
Colorado weigh as much as a 1985 full size pickup, and generally have
more
power. The Dakota would have been considered portly for a full size
truck
twenty years ago. But I don't think we could go back. If somebody made
a
2100lb pickup with no back seat option and a 50 hp diesel would anybody
want it today, even if it got 50 mpg?



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Re: [MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[Christopher McCann]

Thanks all for the good wishes concerning my head. All is well now. No  pain 
either. When I worked on a farm, I used the front loader method  too, but don't 
have one now and never thought of the lever - that's a  good idea.
  
  As my German friend said, "Was einen nicht umbringt, macht ihn 
haerter."..."What does not kill you, makes you stronger."
  
  Chris
  
  

OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Ummm - right.
OUCH 
Glad you survived to learn the lesson. When you recover, and need to
remove another T-post, use a lever.
1 - it's easier,
2 - you are several feet away from the post.

I grab an eight foot (should be feet, but it sounds wrong) 2X4, some
rope to tie it to the T-post, and an empty 5 gal can to use as a
fulcrum. The greatest danger is from splinters.


On 8/6/06, Christopher McCann  wrote:
>  FYI, don't ever try to get an iron T-post out of the ground by pulling  on 
> it really hard. They can snap, causing a blood fountain to come out  of your 
> head, followed by a 7.5 hour trip to the ER and 10 staples in  your head.
>
>  Pretty much ruined my weekend.
>
>  CM
>
>  P.S. The most soothing part (aside from ice chips when I nearly  fainted) 
> was the sound of the turbo charger spooling up on the  Powerchoke engine of 
> the ambulance. The driver noticed my cars and a  lively conversation ensued 
> on the greatness of old diesel Benzes.
>
>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -1985 300SD, 215K, "Wulf"
> -1982 300Dt, 117K, "little blue klatter box"
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"
>
> -
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-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 215K, "Wulf"
-1982 300Dt, 117K, "little blue klatter box"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap
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What make, year, length, engine, etc. is that diesel pusher that gets 27-29 
mpg?
Thanks, Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Weeks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
> We've got a camp back in the woods and last year I picked up a
> propane heated camp shower. Uses about 1lb of propane and 8 d-cell
> batteries (2 sets) for 20 long showers. One of the best things I've
> ever bought for the camp. I think it was just over $100.
>
>   -Curt
>
> Curt:
>
> Glad to hear you like yours. I'd seen those rigs, and been tempted.
> Now I'm gonna get one for my westy before my next long trip and I
> will be driving an entirely self-contained diesel pusher RV that gets
> 27

Re: [MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[Mitch Haley]

Christopher McCann wrote:
> 
> Thanks all for the good wishes concerning my head. All is well now. No  pain 
> either.
> When I worked on a farm, I used the front loader method  too, but don't have 
> one
> now and never thought of the lever - that's a  good idea.

Got $16? It's cheaper than flesh staples.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38444

Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap

[Jim Cathey]

What make, year, length, engine, etc. is that diesel pusher that gets 
27-29

mpg?


Right from his signature line:


82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k


-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap

[Mitch Haley]

archer wrote:
> 
> What make, year, length, engine, etc. is that diesel pusher that gets 27-29
> mpg?

I think he meant this, the engine is probably from a mid-1980's Jetta:

> > 82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k

If you have some money to spare and want a bit more size, google Vixen 
Motorhome.
Prices are comparable to or a bit more than the old FWD GMC.
http://stannerair.hypermart.net/Vixenhome.htm

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Luther Gulseth]

are you sure the "resistor" isn't a charred and smoked diode that got hit 
with too much current in the wrong direction?  Sometimes something else may 
have gone south, and caused the diode/resistor to take the brunt of the 
failure.

Luther


Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:

> Just for SaG, I soldered in bridges for those broken traces to see if I
> could temporarily resurrect this thing, but it still didn't work.  The burnt
> looking resistor registers continuity across, but since it's so discolored,
> I can't tell by its banding whether the resistance values are correct.  I
> have neither the cranial capacity, nor equipment to run any further tests,
> so this sucker's toast as far as I'm concerned.
> 
> 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)

Re: [MBZ] OT: T-post warning label...with some diesel Benz content

[Christopher McCann]

A heck of alot cheaper! Unfortunately...or fortunately, that was the  last one 
to come out. It was on the property when I bought it - just  one post - I think 
there was a fence line there at one point and that  one stayed becuase it had 
roots around it and they couldn't get it out.
  
  Not only are things easier, but safer too, when you have the right tool!
  
  CM
  
  

Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Christopher McCann wrote:
> 
> Thanks all for the good wishes concerning my head. All is well now. No  pain 
> either.
> When I worked on a farm, I used the front loader method  too, but don't have 
> one
> now and never thought of the lever - that's a  good idea.

Got $16? It's cheaper than flesh staples.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38444

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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-1985 300SD, 215K, "Wulf"
-1982 300Dt, 117K, "little blue klatter box"
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, "One Banger"

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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Klima
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Could be.  I don't know how to differentiate between a resistor and a diode.

On 8/7/06, Luther Gulseth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> are you sure the "resistor" isn't a charred and smoked diode that got hit
> with too much current in the wrong direction?  Sometimes something else
> may
> have gone south, and caused the diode/resistor to take the brunt of the
> failure.
>
>
Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Luther Gulseth]

This might be a case for dental records...


Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said:

> Could be.  I don't know how to differentiate between a resistor and a diode.
> 
> 



-- 
Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (235kmi WVO/diesel mix)
'82 300CD (160kmi)
'82 300D  (74kmi needs block or engine)

[MBZ] AC-Not cheap?

[Dwight E. Giles, Jr]

I finally had my Indy check the AC on the 300D 2.5t. It still has the
old R-12 system.  He will black light the dye to check for leaks as it
is low in sight glass. He suggested finding some R-12 as cheaper and
better long term than doing a 134a conversion unless there are major
leaks.   I can't do any AC work myself. 
He also mentioned that Freeze 12 was compatible with R-12 but may do
long term damage. 
In truth I have only skimmed the many posts here on AC but now I need
some info.

Advice? 
TIA,
Dwight 



Dwight Giles, Jr
1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
Wickford, RI
Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.

Re: [MBZ] 201 Status

[Jim Cathey]

I then pulled the instrument cluster, which I really hate doing on
this model, and pulled the clock out of it.  Removing the two 100 uF
16V capacitors, one measured 25 uF and the other 8 uF.  Not good, and
no surprise the clock wasn't working well.  The drive current for the
stepper motor goes through these.  I replaced these with junkbox items
that tested good, probably the last two I had, and reassembled the
clock.  It seemed to work fine on the bench, so I put it all back
together.  Not fun.

-- Jim

[MBZ] Good car for kleb

[George Gregory]

-- Forwarded Message
From: "bencroussel" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Date: Sat, 05 Aug 2006 20:29:17 -
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [Mercedes_Benz_SL] 1985 Mercedes-Benz SEC500 Conv. Cabriolet

I have a MB SEC500 Conv. Cabriolet for sale with an ABC conversion
from Germany. Not only am i selling this car but i would like to find
out more about this company. if you have any info please send me an e-
mail. thanks. 
Ben

-- End of Forwarded Message

Re: [MBZ] AC-Not cheap?

[Jim Cathey]

I finally had my Indy check the AC on the 300D 2.5t. It still has the
old R-12 system.  He will black light the dye to check for leaks as it
is low in sight glass. He suggested finding some R-12 as cheaper and
better long term than doing a 134a conversion unless there are major
leaks.


I agree.  Scraping up a can or two every couple of years will be far
less expensive than a formal conversion, at least until it leaks badly.
Most of our cars that had R12 finally just leaked down enough to stop
working, all I do on them is top them off with secret sauce.  Broken
ones required more work, and of course who wants to risk expensive
refrigerant on an unknown quantity?  Even R134a is not so cheap
anymore.  So for there the secret sauce works well too.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Jim Cathey]

I don't know how to differentiate between a resistor and a diode.


One of them used to have symmetrical resistance, the other didn't.
Glad to be of help.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Jim Cathey]

I don't know how to differentiate between a resistor and a diode.


Diode bodies tend to be purely cylindrical, while resistors often
have bulgy ends.  Or, compare to a non-smoked unit.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Jim Cathey]

are you sure the "resistor" isn't a charred and smoked diode that got 
hit
with too much current in the wrong direction?  Sometimes something 
else may

have gone south, and caused the diode/resistor to take the brunt of the
failure.


A reverse polarity incident might do it, there's little protection
in the circuit against that.  A high voltage spike that punched
through could do it too.  Either could happen during a jump-start
episode.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower

[Curt Raymond]

http://www.zodi.com/web-content/Consumer/zodihottaptravelshower.html
   
  I got the 1 burner model, I can't imagine why you'd need the 2 burner unless 
your water was pretty much ice when you started. The water in our pond is about 
50 degrees and is hot enough to shower with in seconds. To save propane 
sometimes we'll pull 20 gallons of water in the morning and let it sit in the 
sun all day at which point you need to turn the shower way down to be 
comfortable.
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 7 Aug 2006 10:41:09 -0500
From: Dan Weeks <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"


We've got a camp back in the woods and last year I picked up a 
propane heated camp shower. Uses about 1lb of propane and 8 d-cell 
batteries (2 sets) for 20 long showers. One of the best things I've 
ever bought for the camp. I think it was just over $100.

   -Curt

Curt:

Glad to hear you like yours. I'd seen those rigs, and been tempted. 
Now I'm gonna get one for my westy before my next long trip and I 
will be driving an entirely self-contained diesel pusher RV that gets 
27-29 mpg. Wooo hooo!


-- 
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k



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Thanks, Jim,
Wish I lived closer so I could get some secret sauce.  
Dwight

Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.


-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 3:40 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC-Not cheap?


> I finally had my Indy check the AC on the 300D 2.5t. It still has the 
> old R-12 system.  He will black light the dye to check for leaks as it

> is low in sight glass. He suggested finding some R-12 as cheaper and 
> better long term than doing a 134a conversion unless there are major 
> leaks.

I agree.  Scraping up a can or two every couple of years will be far
less expensive than a formal conversion, at least until it leaks badly.
Most of our cars that had R12 finally just leaked down enough to stop
working, all I do on them is top them off with secret sauce.  Broken
ones required more work, and of course who wants to risk expensive
refrigerant on an unknown quantity?  Even R134a is not so cheap anymore.
So for there the secret sauce works well too.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Replacing the return lines -postmortem

[Curt Raymond]

'85 2.2l 5spd I *try* to keep my highway speed to 70mph or below. In fact I'm 
sure I can do better because last week we were short staffed at work and the 
more upset I am when I leave work the faster I tend to drive...
   
  -Curt
   
  Date: Mon, 07 Aug 2006 12:06:15 -0400
From: Mitch Haley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Replacing the return lines -postmortem
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Curt Raymond wrote:
> 
> Hi all,
>   If you remember last week you might remember my replacing the fuel 
return lines on my 190D after one fell off on my morning commute.
>   Yesterday I filled the tank after 461 miles and... Indeed I'd only 
put in 10.3 gallons..

Is this a 2.5 turbo/automatic?
There's a fellow on mercedesshop who replaced the dead tranny in a 
turbo with
a 5sp OD and brags about getting 39mpg on long trips at a steady 
75-80mph. 
When/if I ever get mine put together with a non-OD 5sp I'm hoping for 
45mpg
at 55-60mph. It'll have a more efficient turbo than stock and no torque
converter loss.



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Subject: Re: [MBZ] AC-Not cheap?
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I had not heard of anything about freeze 12 long-term damage. Is there 
evidence?

Bob Rentfro...chillin' (when it works) with a freeze 12 like goo


- Original Message - 
From: "Dwight E. Giles, Jr" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 12:12 PM
Subject: [MBZ] AC-Not cheap?


>
> I finally had my Indy check the AC on the 300D 2.5t. It still has the
> old R-12 system.  He will black light the dye to check for leaks as it
> is low in sight glass. He suggested finding some R-12 as cheaper and
> better long term than doing a 134a conversion unless there are major
> leaks.   I can't do any AC work myself.
> He also mentioned that Freeze 12 was compatible with R-12 but may do
> long term damage.
> In truth I have only skimmed the many posts here on AC but now I need
> some info.
>
> Advice?
> TIA,
> Dwight
>
>
>
> Dwight Giles, Jr
> 1979 240D auto, 250K + miles
> 1990 300D 2.5t, 130K miles
> Wickford, RI
> Bissell Cove Quahog & Auto Salvage Co.
>
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 

Re: [MBZ] Klima

[Zeitgeist]

A'ha!  Yes, it's purely cylindrical.

On 8/7/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> I don't know how to differentiate between a resistor and a diode.

Diode bodies tend to be purely cylindrical, while resistors often
have bulgy ends.  Or, compare to a non-smoked unit.

-



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler #22 (216k)
'84 300D (214k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] OT: cheap V12 coupe

[Rich Thomas]

Yeah that was it.  Still, nothing sounds quite like a nice V12.

--R

LarryT wrote:

Ya'll wrote:>
 



You may be referring to a post of mine where I was talking about a XKE V12 a 
friend owned.  The ignition amplifier was in the V and the heat would kill 
it.


I imagine the newer V12 generates as much heat as the older engine but 
hopefully the electronic components are relocated to a safer area of are 
better insulated.


Even though some years of development and refinement have improved things, 
rememeber the V12 is a high performance engine requiring an extra level of 
maintanence and compared to others, were produced in very limited numbers 
all thing

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, August 03, 2006 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT: cheap V12 coupe


 


Rich Thomas wrote:
   


Ddin't I read someone here a few weeks ago say that the V12s cooked the
ignition systems or something, parts that were tucked up between the
heads and got really really hot?
 


I believe he said a friend owned one and had to replace an electric part
several times a year when the engine quit. It might explain why so
many of them still have less than 100k miles on them, when a R107 of
similar vintage with a 5 digit odo reading is quite rare.

Believe it or not, that newspaper with about 80-100 car ads in it
currently has two XJS. The other one is a 1987 Jagrolet:

Jaguar XJS 1987 Converted to Chevy V8, about 8k miles on new engine.
$6300 worth of improvements. Sharp! $3000. 989-277-8476

If $2-3k is the going rate for a 1980's XJS, I guess a somewhat cheaper
Corvette would have been a better investment.

Mitch.

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[MBZ] Steering Adjustment 240D

[John Ingram]

Hello All-
I have lost my notes on adjusting the steering on my 83 240D.  I  
adjusted the steering about 5 years ago and recall that you loosen  
the allen adjuster to tighten the steering, is this right?  Anyone  
know the proper Mercedes-Benz procedure?

Thanks,
John Ingram

Re: [MBZ] 90's 300TDt 0-60 times (14 seconds)

[John W. Reames III]

On Sun, 6 Aug 2006, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> I guess Im going to have to start resoldering these things.

Don't forget to re-coat the things with confromal coating when you are 
done; those old boards are phenolic (at best) which is slightly 
hygroscopic. In another 20 yrs or so it might become a serious issue on 
those boards :) 

(Seriously, when I redid one, I used paint stripper on the back, replaced 
all the electrolytic and tantalum caps, then desoldered (with a soldapult) 
every joint and then resoldered with new solder (I prefer 63/37 myself).  
I then did a flux wash (techspray HFE flux remover) and a test. When it 
was found to be working, I coated it with techspray Fine-L-Kote UR.

It worked great until the car was totaled about 8 mos ago.
-j.

I dug around and found that I ordered:
1 P2039-ND 15UFD 16VDC TANTALUM CAP 1.14000 1.14
1 P2077-ND 4.7UFD @ 50VDC TANTALUM CAP 3.05000 3.05
2 4240PHCT-ND CAP 63V 10UF ELECT AXIAL .85000 1.70
2 4252PHCT-ND CAP 100V 2.2UF ELECT AXIAL .83000 1.66
1 P5568-ND CAP 22UF 50V ELECT NHG RADIAL .28000 .28

..  This was a CC amp that four axial leaded electrolytics on it and some 
radials or "box" tants.  FWIW, the Tants are all discontinued.

[MBZ] Diesel Pusher was camp shower was AC on the cheap

[Dan Weeks]

Gerry wrote:

What make, year, length, engine, etc. is that diesel pusher that gets 27-29
mpg?
Thanks, Gerry

Gerry, that's my 82 VW Vanagon Westfalia turbodiesel. The engine is 
the same 1.6 liter TD that was installed in Jettas. They came that 
way from the factory in europe, but were only available with a 
naturally aspirated version of the same engine here. I had the NA--it 
was 48 horsepower and, to put it mildly, slow. I found an imported TD 
and swapped it in, along with the higher-geared transmission from an 
aircooled vanagon. Now I have a neck-snapping 70 
horsepower--comparable to the stock aircooled gas version's 67hp--and 
can cruise at 65-70 comfortably.


A cheaper option, and one I actually like better, now that I've had 
the chance to drive both, is to get a diesel vanagon and swap in a 
1.8 liter gas engine from a Jetta. Quite a bit more power over the 
whole RPM range, quieter, and will cruise at 70 even up moderate 
grades and into headwinds, all for a mere 3 mpg penalty. With gas 
cheaper than diesel, the cost per mile is barely noticeable. The main 
difference is that 1.8 gas engines can be had in good shape for 
600-800 bucks; my diesel cost me $2,500--and that was a good deal. 
Unless something very weird happens to the price differential between 
gas and diesel, I'm gonna swap a 1.8 gas into my van when the diesel 
finally wears out.




Dan

--
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k

Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 9, Issue 32

[Dan Weeks]

Curt wrote:

http://www.zodi.com/web-content/Consumer/zodihottaptravelshower.html

  I got the 1 burner model, I can't imagine why you'd need the 2 
burner unless your water was pretty much ice when you started. The 
water in our pond is about 50 degrees and is hot enough to shower 
with in seconds. To save propane sometimes we'll pull 20 gallons of 
water in the morning and let it sit in the sun all day at which point 
you need to turn the shower way down to be comfortable.


  -Curt

Thanks, Curt! Looks slick. I've bookmarked it.

Dan
--
Dan Weeks
Freelance Writing and Photography
515/279-4825
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap

[archer]

When I saw diesel pusher,  thought of a bigger RV.

You can't use paint remover or brake cleaner to remove varnish from circuit 
boards?

Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>




What make, year, length, engine, etc. is that diesel pusher that gets
27-29
mpg?


Right from his signature line:


82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k


-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap

[archer]

That's an interesting motorhome with very good mpg.  Found an '87 googling, 
for $24,000, which has 64,000 miles on it.  I'll keep looking and might find 
one closer to home since there are many RVs down here.

Thanks,
Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "Mitch Haley" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Monday, August 07, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap



archer wrote:


What make, year, length, engine, etc. is that diesel pusher that gets 
27-29

mpg?


I think he meant this, the engine is probably from a mid-1980's Jetta:


> 82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k


If you have some money to spare and want a bit more size, google Vixen 
Motorhome.

Prices are comparable to or a bit more than the old FWD GMC.
http://stannerair.hypermart.net/Vixenhome.htm

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Re: [MBZ] Camp Shower, was AC on the cheap

[Jim Cathey]

You can't use paint remover or brake cleaner to remove varnish from 
circuit

boards?


Paint remover works well.  Though the RTV-like glop on the
Hirschmann required a Xylene bath and some serious mechanical
scrubbing.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Steering Adjustment 240D

[Jim Cathey]

I have lost my notes on adjusting the steering on my 83 240D.  I
adjusted the steering about 5 years ago and recall that you loosen
the allen adjuster to tighten the steering, is this right?  Anyone
know the proper Mercedes-Benz procedure?


Yes, that's it.  However, it is the _last_ thing you try, after
examining/replacing anything else that's worn or has slop in it.
If you go too far the steering gets notchy in the middle, and your
steering box wears out in no time.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Diesel Pusher was camp shower was AC on the cheap

[archer]

So you could get 25-26 mpg with a gas Vanagon? That wouldn't be bad at all.
Gerry

- Original Message - 
From: "Dan Weeks" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>



Gerry wrote:

What make, year, length, engine, etc. is that diesel pusher that gets 
27-29

mpg?
Thanks, Gerry

Gerry, that's my 82 VW Vanagon Westfalia turbodiesel. The engine is
the same 1.6 liter TD that was installed in Jettas. They came that
way from the factory in europe, but were only available with a
naturally aspirated version of the same engine here. I had the NA--it
was 48 horsepower and, to put it mildly, slow. I found an imported TD
and swapped it in, along with the higher-geared transmission from an
aircooled vanagon. Now I have a neck-snapping 70
horsepower--comparable to the stock aircooled gas version's 67hp--and
can cruise at 65-70 comfortably.

A cheaper option, and one I actually like better, now that I've had
the chance to drive both, is to get a diesel vanagon and swap in a
1.8 liter gas engine from a Jetta. Quite a bit more power over the
whole RPM range, quieter, and will cruise at 70 even up moderate
grades and into headwinds, all for a mere 3 mpg penalty. With gas
cheaper than diesel, the cost per mile is barely noticeable. The main
difference is that 1.8 gas engines can be had in good shape for
600-800 bucks; my diesel cost me $2,500--and that was a good deal.
Unless something very weird happens to the price differential between
gas and diesel, I'm gonna swap a 1.8 gas into my van when the diesel
finally wears out.



Dan

--
Dan Weeks
82 VW Westfalia 1.6 TD conversion 186k
82 Mercedes 300SD, 275k

Re: [MBZ] Steering Adjustment 240D

[Loren Faeth]

That is correct.  after you loosen the locknut, turn the allen counter 
clockwise about 1/4 turn, Lock it down and test drive.  If you get it too 
tight, the PS is essentially fighting itself.  I can feel this in the test 
drive.  Make sure every other front end component is TIGHT before messing 
with the steering gear.  I like to use a paint mark or a dent to mark the 
position of the adjuster screw.


At 05:25 PM 8/7/2006, you wrote:

Hello All-
I have lost my notes on adjusting the steering on my 83 240D.  I
adjusted the steering about 5 years ago and recall that you loosen
the allen adjuster to tighten the steering, is this right?  Anyone
know the proper Mercedes-Benz procedure?
Thanks,
John Ingram

___
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Loren Faeth 

Re: [MBZ] FWD: electrical warning

[John W. Reames III]

Speaking of diodes, does anyone have need of a diode pack for a OM617 type 
alternator?

-j.

Re: [MBZ] Vixen M/H, was AC on the cheap

[Mitch Haley]

archer wrote:
> 
> That's an interesting motorhome with very good mpg.  Found an '87 googling,
> for $24,000, which has 64,000 miles on it.  I'll keep looking and might find
> one closer to home since there are many RVs down here.

Aren't too many $45k motorhomes from 20 years ago still selling for 50% of
original retail. I'm sure if you found a decent deal, you could put 10kmi on
it traveling the country and sell it next year for what you paid for it. You
would, of course, lose any money you pour into repair and maintenance during
that time. And it's much roomier than a 123 sedan. 

Engine is, IIRC, identical to BMW 534td and some 1980's Lincoln models. 
I've seen good running Lincolns going for $2k, but that was when gas
was $1.50 a gallon, not sure if they are still cheap BMW engine donors.
Just remember it's a fairly large vehicle with all the power of a turbo 190D,
and I bet there's a nice turbo lag when you shift the manny tranny. 
(but it's probably no slower than certain VW campers)
If I owned one, I'd try to procure a spare engine and then see how much HP
I could coax out of it. I think 200hp motorhomes drive better than 130hp.
Mitch.