Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Hans Neureiter]

You are learning.
'82 OM 517.xxx
Never changed the plugs and I still think it's the bulb in the Kluster.
I will disclose what I found after I dig in.
It's the pissant 7mm nuts that dissapear.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 7:51 PM, Dimitri Seretakis wrote:

> Wow. I didn't know that the manifold had to be removed! The more I learn,
> the more I realize how much I love my older OM615, 616 engines.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 18, 2011, at 5:24 PM, "Larry"  wrote:
>
> Hello Dimitri,
>  With the 602 engine it's not possible to R&R the GPs without removing the
> intake manifold.   At least I have never found a way unless I find a way to
> make my hands shrink to 1/10 of their size!
>
>  In general I will typically go ahead and replace all 5 - mostly because
> if 3 died the other 2 will likely be on their way out..
>
>  Even though 2 of the 5 looked good, I put all new ones in - I'll keep the
> old 2 that look good for a while but would not consider installing used
> ones in a location which is so hard to reach.Now I can test the 2 that
> appear good - based on the amount of carbon/gunk on the heating surfaces --
>  and see if I can learn anything about them.
>
> Thanks for the info
> LarryT
> 91 300D -
>
> -Original Message- From: Dimitri Seretakis
> Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 3:51 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
>
> I agree with you. Keep the old good ones in your car as emergency spares.
> When a glow plug fails and leaves you stranded it's going to be cold out.
> Usually really cold. Not fun.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 18, 2011, at 3:46 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
>
> Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all the
> plugs pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing all of
> them at once. He was of the mind that you need only replace them when they
> failed and only replace those that had failed.
>
> Under Marshall's rule I had to replace plugs in the dark at -10F once.
> NEVER AGAIN!
>
> Both of my cars have plugs that are right around 1 year and 20,000 miles
> old. At the first sign of problems all 4 in a car will be replaced at the
> earliest possible opportunity. Theres nothing less fun than trying to start
> a car without all the glowplugs...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:43:17 -0600
> From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> They live until they die.  some quickly, others list long. varies by
> type and manufacturer too.
>
>
> Howdy --
>  My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This
> week I noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight
> my wife tried to come home and it would not start.  As luck would
> have it I had planned to replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!
> Just one day too late!
>
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
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>
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>
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>
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>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Hans Neureiter]

But than Dr. Booth also commended to replace all the fuses semi anually and
RTFM.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 2:46 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all the
> plugs pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing all of
> them at once. He was of the mind that you need only replace them when they
> failed and only replace those that had failed.
>
> Under Marshall's rule I had to replace plugs in the dark at -10F once.
> NEVER AGAIN!
>
> Both of my cars have plugs that are right around 1 year and 20,000 miles
> old. At the first sign of problems all 4 in a car will be replaced at the
> earliest possible opportunity. Theres nothing less fun than trying to start
> a car without all the glowplugs...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:43:17 -0600
> From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> They live until they die.  some quickly, others list long. varies by
> type and manufacturer too.
>
>
> >Howdy --
> > My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This
> >week I noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight
> >my wife tried to come home and it would not start.  As luck would
> >have it I had planned to replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!
> >Just one day too late!
>
>  ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] GP relay

[Hans Neureiter]

Jim, you amaze me.
You explained so elegant how it does it.
I am always occupied by Ohm's law and forget electro magnetic induction
(Tesslers idea using it created AC,-- Chicago World Fair ---told Edison
off).
Who was the Italian that figured it out first?
Galvan? Farady was not Italian.
On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 11:32 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:

> The circuit compares #1 and each of the others,
>>
>
> ...compares #1 against _all_ of the others!  The circuit is
> quite clever and cancels the magnetic field generated by a
> single-turn winding on a relay that feeds #'s 2-5 (say)
> against a 4-turn counter-direction winding feeding #1.  So
> long as #1 draws the same current as 1/4 of what 2-5 draw
> together the relay doesn't get enough magnetic field to fire,
> and the light stays on.
>
> It's cheap and elegant.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
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>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
___
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Re: [MBZ] Andrews Global.......

[Hans Neureiter]

I pull the cluster almost faster than I can open the hood.
Optimist/looser I am, a blown bulb ...
But a plug can also go out instantly like a light bulb.
You are correct. Marshal alays said: RTFM.
I don't have one, but the service manual says the same.

Thanks.
-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: 240D Axle Failed

[Jim Cathey]

worst part is opening the diff to get at the clip, and getting it back 
in.


I use a short pair (4"?) of vise-grips to grip the tab on the
retaining clip, it yanks out and pushes back in easily that way.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 89 300e ?

[Hans Neureiter]

Yes, you are correct. I am a decade off.
EeDee is a '95 W124. Ex takes good care of it and I still am consulted
(bust my knuckles).
I always thought the 201's succedes the 124's.

As far as the clatta, clatta goes, --- urban myths.
Courtesy transport from the dealer where my car was towed to after the
immobilizer went bunkers picked me up in a brand new Jetta wagon.
The driver told me it was a diesel.

10:33 PM, OK Don  wrote:

> Hans - you've been feeling the flower power a bit too much lately --
> I thought EeDee was a '95. Yes, it was a very nice ride!
> The 201 came first in '84, followed by the 124 in '86 (at least in the US).
> I own both a '90 and '92 300D 2.5 Turbo, so, yes, Diesels were (and still
> are) sold in the US.
>
> I noticed that the 2012 E350 and the 2012 E350CDI get within 1 MPG of the
> same fuel economy! All you get with the CDI is less power, higher cost, and
> the need to add that blue pee occasionally. You don't even get the clatta
> clatta from what I've read - haven't tried one on for size though.
>
> On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 10:11 PM, Hans Neureiter 
> wrote:
>
> > Don; I know.
> > The '87 EeDee was a suspect.
> > I think you rode in it.
> > It as was a cross-over year and I got lucky.
> > Confusing times.
> > 124's were replaced by 201's.
> > E300D's were replaced by E300 Compressor's,
> > And after 1989 diesels were no longer sold in the USA.
> > Starting with the 190  class, I lost it.
> > Yep, they came back with diesels in the SUV market built in VA.
> > US mythology: diesels are OK in trucks (pick-ups, SUV's, Semi's and MB
> > ML's).
> > I stooped down to a VW (Diese Beetle, that is)
> > Love the thing (except the built in vase on the dash)
> > My new handle is "Daisy"
> >
> >
>
>
>
>  --
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
___
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Re: [MBZ] GP relay

[Jim Cathey]

The circuit compares #1 and each of the others,


...compares #1 against _all_ of the others!  The circuit is
quite clever and cancels the magnetic field generated by a
single-turn winding on a relay that feeds #'s 2-5 (say)
against a 4-turn counter-direction winding feeding #1.  So
long as #1 draws the same current as 1/4 of what 2-5 draw
together the relay doesn't get enough magnetic field to fire,
and the light stays on.

It's cheap and elegant.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 89 300e ?

[OK Don]

Hans - you've been feeling the flower power a bit too much lately --
I thought EeDee was a '95. Yes, it was a very nice ride!
The 201 came first in '84, followed by the 124 in '86 (at least in the US).
I own both a '90 and '92 300D 2.5 Turbo, so, yes, Diesels were (and still
are) sold in the US.

I noticed that the 2012 E350 and the 2012 E350CDI get within 1 MPG of the
same fuel economy! All you get with the CDI is less power, higher cost, and
the need to add that blue pee occasionally. You don't even get the clatta
clatta from what I've read - haven't tried one on for size though.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 10:11 PM, Hans Neureiter  wrote:

> Don; I know.
> The '87 EeDee was a suspect.
> I think you rode in it.
> It as was a cross-over year and I got lucky.
> Confusing times.
> 124's were replaced by 201's.
> E300D's were replaced by E300 Compressor's,
> And after 1989 diesels were no longer sold in the USA.
> Starting with the 190  class, I lost it.
> Yep, they came back with diesels in the SUV market built in VA.
> US mythology: diesels are OK in trucks (pick-ups, SUV's, Semi's and MB
> ML's).
> I stooped down to a VW (Diese Beetle, that is)
> Love the thing (except the built in vase on the dash)
> My new handle is "Daisy"
>
>



-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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[MBZ] Oh Wilton

[Tim C]

You do this with that SDL you keep threatening to replace.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2071197/Japanese-light-trucks-blings-road.html
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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[WILTON]

Relay (new) has good main power (12v); fuse has good power both ends.  Time, 
maybe, tomorrow for more checking.  How 'bout 12v at each relay plug 
terminal during 30 sec. cycle?  Relay likely not it, though; 'zackly same 
prob with old relay.  All plugs show good continuity.  Need better meter for 
amp check; mine only goes to 10 amps.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 10:29 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL


Check the strip fuse - then the connections to the GP relay? Start with 
the

easy stuff.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 7:06 PM, WILTON  wrote:


I looked for something disturbed or shorted immediately and have several
times since; can't find anything yet.

Wilton

- Original Message - From: "Craig" 
To: 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 7:48 PM

Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL


 On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 18:21:59 -0500 "WILTON"  wrote:


 Temp has never been any worry at all before; 'just now since I replaced

the glow plugs.  Prob started immediately when I replaced glow plugs.



Kind of points to the glow plugs, doesn't it? Or maybe something you
disturbed when changing the plugs. I'd suspect the glow plugs first.
Maybe they were mis-boxed -- it's happened to me before.


Craig




--
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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Re: [MBZ] 89 300e ?

[Hans Neureiter]

Don; I know.
The '87 EeDee was a suspect.
I think you rode in it.
It as was a cross-over year and I got lucky.
Confusing times.
124's were replaced by 201's.
E300D's were replaced by E300 Compressor's,
And after 1989 diesels were no longer sold in the USA.
Starting with the 190  class, I lost it.
Yep, they came back with diesels in the SUV market built in VA.
US mythology: diesels are OK in trucks (pick-ups, SUV's, Semi's and MB
ML's).
I stooped down to a VW (Diese Beetle, that is)
Love the thing (except the built in vase on the dash)
My new handle is "Daisy"

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 9:34 PM, OK Don  wrote:

> I think the bio-degradable wiring came in '90 or '91? Might not be an issue
> in the '89, or I could be wrong.
>
> On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 7:47 PM, Hans Neureiter 
> wrote:
>
> > And, as best as I remember, there was the aera with the "green"
> > wires/harneses. 124 & 201 alike.
> > Power to the 123/126 and earlier cars.
> > Thinking of the adoption of computers in the automotive world makes me
> weep
> > (twice the wires, but where do they all go to?).
> > Yes, now we have ABS, ASC, Traction Control, Magnetic Suspension, Video
> > Rear View, Automatic Parrallel Parking, etc.
> > The mayham behind the steering wheel used to do all that or not.
> > Loosing a key nowadays costs almoast as much as an engine rebuild used to
> > run.
> > Old school, but I appreciate the new garge - no more nuts, washers,
> springs
> > and other parts lost in the grass under the shade tree.
> > Still have fond memories about my Dads 190D which was known as the
> >  'Daimler-Benz' (no Mercdes mentioned).
> >
> > --
> >
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
>  ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
___
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Re: [MBZ] Andrews Global.......

[Dieselhead]

The light won't light if 2 GPs are bad.  Check resistance or current 
draw of the plugs first.  Much easier than pulling out the cluster.


I think if #1 goes out, it won't light either.  The circuit compares 
#1 and each of the others, so if #1 burns out first, it thinks all 5 
(on a 603) are bad.  I think this is in the owners manual.  But I 
never read the whole book other than my 110.110




One more for the count please.
The moose was here since Friday. Big bull just left.
Drove the Benz today after it was neglected for a few weeks. Glow light
does not come on (bulb?)
Started OK in the low 50's on the firrst 5 sec pregloww try.
But it snarls at me. Sounds like an exhaust leak. I took the air cleaner
off and couldn't see anything wrong down there.
Makes that noise only when under power but no noticable power lack.
Wouldn't an exhaust leak behind the turbo result in a more or less uniform
noise?
What I hear is a "Tchity, tchity bang bang " (without the bang but clatta).
Exhaust manifold?  History of cracking?  Gasket? (OM 517.95 manifold on a
517.93 motor)

--
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
___
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[MBZ] Andrews Global.......

[Hans Neureiter]

One more for the count please.
The moose was here since Friday. Big bull just left.
Drove the Benz today after it was neglected for a few weeks. Glow light
does not come on (bulb?)
Started OK in the low 50's on the firrst 5 sec pregloww try.
But it snarls at me. Sounds like an exhaust leak. I took the air cleaner
off and couldn't see anything wrong down there.
Makes that noise only when under power but no noticable power lack.
Wouldn't an exhaust leak behind the turbo result in a more or less uniform
noise?
What I hear is a "Tchity, tchity bang bang " (without the bang but clatta).
Exhaust manifold?  History of cracking?  Gasket? (OM 517.95 manifold on a
517.93 motor)

-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
___
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Re: [MBZ] 89 300e ?

[OK Don]

I think the bio-degradable wiring came in '90 or '91? Might not be an issue
in the '89, or I could be wrong.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 7:47 PM, Hans Neureiter  wrote:

> And, as best as I remember, there was the aera with the "green"
> wires/harneses. 124 & 201 alike.
> Power to the 123/126 and earlier cars.
> Thinking of the adoption of computers in the automotive world makes me weep
> (twice the wires, but where do they all go to?).
> Yes, now we have ABS, ASC, Traction Control, Magnetic Suspension, Video
> Rear View, Automatic Parrallel Parking, etc.
> The mayham behind the steering wheel used to do all that or not.
> Loosing a key nowadays costs almoast as much as an engine rebuild used to
> run.
> Old school, but I appreciate the new garge - no more nuts, washers, springs
> and other parts lost in the grass under the shade tree.
> Still have fond memories about my Dads 190D which was known as the
>  'Daimler-Benz' (no Mercdes mentioned).
>
> --
>
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[OK Don]

Check the strip fuse - then the connections to the GP relay? Start with the
easy stuff.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 7:06 PM, WILTON  wrote:

> I looked for something disturbed or shorted immediately and have several
> times since; can't find anything yet.
>
> Wilton
>
> - Original Message - From: "Craig" 
> To: 
> Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 7:48 PM
>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL
>
>
>  On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 18:21:59 -0500 "WILTON"  wrote:
>>
>>  Temp has never been any worry at all before; 'just now since I replaced
>>> the glow plugs.  Prob started immediately when I replaced glow plugs.
>>>
>>
>> Kind of points to the glow plugs, doesn't it? Or maybe something you
>> disturbed when changing the plugs. I'd suspect the glow plugs first.
>> Maybe they were mis-boxed -- it's happened to me before.
>>
>>
>> Craig
>>
>
-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
___
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Re: [MBZ] IP replacement

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Sat, Dec 17, 2011 at 12:59 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
> Is the #1 injection pipe different than the others?
> Was it Alex that had a pipe made and said that afterward idle was a little 
> bit off?
>

Indeed it was!  Good memory, Curt.  Yes, #6 hard line (closest to the
firewall) was unobtainium for a time, and I had one made at a diesel
shop.  After that the car had a very slightly "lumpy" idle as they say
about muscle cars with hot cams.  I did later manage to get a real
line from Rusty (about a year ago?) so they are available again.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] Upper Cyl Head Cleaning

[OK Don]

You saw the analysis results from M1 in my '87 300SDL at over 12,000 miles
per change - not a problem.

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 3:53 PM, Larry  wrote:

> Thanks Peter -
>   I had used only M1 for years until the difficulty in finding 15W40
> and/or 15W50.  Plus the cost is not insignificant.But I'd rather pay
> the delta & go to 10,000 mile oil changes if it'll get rid of that junk in
> the engine.   Thanks for the engineering analysis!  It's always helpful to
> see the details in B&W.
>
>   It's all back together at the moment but I might check with my machine
> shop and get together on a time to bring the X-over and Intake manifold to
> them so they can put it in their engine tank.  Cleaning the Upper
> Cylinder/Valve Pockets will be more difficult.  I might get some or most of
> the gunk out buy stuffing paper towels into the upper chamber / valve
> chamber and "mop" some of the gunk out - but it'd be hard not to let a
> piece fall into a open intake valve.  That engine is too valuable not to
> take the "easy" route and switch back to Mobil 1.
>
> Thx agn,
> Larry
> 91 300D




-- 
OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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[MBZ] '83 240D engine stop

[Gerry Archer]

I'm replacing engine mounts on 240D that has an adjustable "front engine
stop".

Found the following on the 'net:

Installing New Engine Mounts Made Easy...
by: Omar Sidak
There are slight differences between model years and types of transmissions
so please keep this in mind.
The 1980 W123 body 240D with a 4 speed manual transmission have 4 rubber
pieces that support the engine and transmission. The consist of the two
front engine mounts, the transmission mount and the engine stop. When
looking at the engine from the top you will see the two mounts located under
the IP and under the air cleaner housing, the engine stop will be located
between the oil pan and front cross member. NOTE the engine stop is only on
cars not equipped with engine shocks. The transmission mount is located on
the bottom side about half way back the transmission. After about 100K miles
all the rubber mounting points will be shot and should be checked out, if
they are bad then they should be replaced to reduce engine vibrations and
restore that Mercedes feel.

STEPS.

1. Jack up front of car and place on jack stands. Disconnect the negative
cable from the battery

2. Locate the engine stop and release the bolt holding it, this will be a
19mm bolt that goes through the cross member. If the area is oily the odds
are that the engine stop is history so have a spare one handy.

3. Turn the steering wheel to the right or left stop, and remove the engine
mount bolt (8mm) from the bottom.

4. Place a piece of wood between the oil pan and a jack and raise the engine
as much as you can, make sure that you have allowed room for the cooling fan
to raise with the engine.

5. Remove the heat shield and remove the Two 5mm bolts from the top of the
mount. Put new mount into place, and reverse the procedure.

6. If the engine stop needs to be replaced remove the two 13mm screws that
hold the stop bracket to the bottom of the lower oil pan.

7. Clean the area up and disassemble the bracket and install the new engine
stop.

Make sure all bolts are tight and hook the battery back up (note this is a
good time to check for rust in the battery area) start the engine and take
it for a good 15 minute drive. Jack the car back up and loosen the 19mm
engine stop bolt and then retorque.
-
Since the front engine stop seems to adjust the "tilt" of the engine in
relation
to the transmission, I would guess that the new transmission mount should be
replaced before taking the drive and re-adjusting the front engine stop
(mount).

Am I wrong about this?  Is Sidak correct?
(The MB manual says to "make" a gauge for setting the front engine stop and 
gives

dimensions.  I'd rather not have to do that.)

Thanks,
Gerry





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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Hans Neureiter]

Fog lights are a decorative fad nowadays.
Used to be yellow and de-focused.
Just about anything on 4 wheels now comes with a front "Bumper" with 2
holes in it to make you spend cash to put something in that cannot be aimed
but looks good.
My Harley came with "Passing Lights", which came on only at low beam. Whew,
did they light up the tree tops.
The French had mandatory yellow head lights in the 60's and 70's.
And the Germans had for a while mandatory "Fog Tail Lights'
But people don't get it. Put the low's on in limited visibility and get off
the road before you can't see anymore.
Like Nietzsche said: "Stupidity is invincible" and Ron White colloquilced
to "Can't fix stupid"
On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 12:15 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:

> I've put another little rant on my web site:
>
> http://userweb.windwireless.**net/~jimc/fog.html
>
> This may evolve a bit over time, but I've been wanting
> to say this for some time.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
> To search list archives 
> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Mitch Haley]

Dimitri Seretakis wrote:
Wow. I didn't know that the manifold had to be removed! 


According to Marshall, you merely need the appropriate 1/4" drive Snap-On socket 
with built in swivel.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Wow. I didn't know that the manifold had to be removed! The more I learn, the 
more I realize how much I love my older OM615, 616 engines.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 18, 2011, at 5:24 PM, "Larry"  wrote:

Hello Dimitri,
  With the 602 engine it's not possible to R&R the GPs without removing the 
intake manifold.   At least I have never found a way unless I find a way to 
make my hands shrink to 1/10 of their size!

  In general I will typically go ahead and replace all 5 - mostly because if 3 
died the other 2 will likely be on their way out..

  Even though 2 of the 5 looked good, I put all new ones in - I'll keep the old 
2 that look good for a while but would not consider installing used ones in a 
location which is so hard to reach.Now I can test the 2 that appear good - 
based on the amount of carbon/gunk on the heating surfaces --  and see if I can 
learn anything about them.

Thanks for the info
LarryT
91 300D -

-Original Message- From: Dimitri Seretakis
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 3:51 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

I agree with you. Keep the old good ones in your car as emergency spares. When 
a glow plug fails and leaves you stranded it's going to be cold out. Usually 
really cold. Not fun.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 18, 2011, at 3:46 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all the plugs 
pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing all of them at once. 
He was of the mind that you need only replace them when they failed and only 
replace those that had failed.

Under Marshall's rule I had to replace plugs in the dark at -10F once. NEVER 
AGAIN!

Both of my cars have plugs that are right around 1 year and 20,000 miles old. 
At the first sign of problems all 4 in a car will be replaced at the earliest 
possible opportunity. Theres nothing less fun than trying to start a car 
without all the glowplugs...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:43:17 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

They live until they die.  some quickly, others list long. varies by
type and manufacturer too.


Howdy --
 My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This
week I noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight
my wife tried to come home and it would not start.  As luck would
have it I had planned to replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!
Just one day too late!

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Re: [MBZ] 89 300e ?

[Hans Neureiter]

And, as best as I remember, there was the aera with the "green"
wires/harneses. 124 & 201 alike.
Power to the 123/126 and earlier cars.
Thinking of the adoption of computers in the automotive world makes me weep
(twice the wires, but where do they all go to?).
Yes, now we have ABS, ASC, Traction Control, Magnetic Suspension, Video
Rear View, Automatic Parrallel Parking, etc.
The mayham behind the steering wheel used to do all that or not.
Loosing a key nowadays costs almoast as much as an engine rebuild used to
run.
Old school, but I appreciate the new garge - no more nuts, washers, springs
and other parts lost in the grass under the shade tree.
Still have fond memories about my Dads 190D which was known as the
 'Daimler-Benz' (no Mercdes mentioned).

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 11:39 AM, Peter Frederick wrote:

> Probably the most important thing is a properly working fuel distributor.
>  Parts are getting VERY expensive.
>
> Next is suspension -- that car used the old design suspension links and
> they are likely dead if not replaced fairly recently.  Not a huge job, but
> they drive horribly until you get them all in.  I need to finish mine
> before it snows, the rear end is really squirrely.  Very nice handling when
> they are intact.
>
> Front suspension ditto -- plan on ball joints if not done recently, they
> are likely dead of old age.  Upper strut mounts too, see if they are not.
>  Front swaybar bushing shrink and rattle, also the frame mounts are a joke
> and break all the time if you have to drive on rough pavement.
>
> None of this is horribly difficult or expensive to do, but you do want to
> factor it in.
>
> ACC is a problem, quite a few of these cars have failed AC evaporators,
> and that job is pure hell.  Not really difficult, but the rate book calls
> for 16 hours to do it.  Blower replacement is common, and a pain although
> you can get to it from the front.  Pushbutton units and sensors fail,
> resulting in erratic operation.  I've not successfully rebuilt a unit yet,
> although I may try since the TE is getting really out of spec.
>
> Early M013s suffered from excessive valve guide wear and failed cam lobes,
> so be aware of that.  Also known for a leak and the front camshaft cover
> seal and weak head gaskets.  Easy to fix, but again you need to consider in
> the price.  Not cheap for a shop.
>
> If it's not been done, you will need to replace the idle control valve
> hoses and the boot between throttle body and air flow sensor horn -- these
> cause terrible running and throttle response problems.  A pain to do.
>  Leaking injector seals are an issue, and leaks at the sleeve for the
> injectors, often overlooked, also cause rough idle and performance problems.
>
> If it runs well and drives nicely, it's a great car (my brother and I have
> four between us, plus a W126).
>
> Peter
>
>
> On Dec 18, 2011, at 10:48 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:
>
> Looking at an 89 300e.  I know nothing about the gassers and this chassis.
>> What should I look for?  What is too high for mileage?
>>
>> Thanks, Mike
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
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>>
>
>
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
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>



-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[WILTON]

I looked for something disturbed or shorted immediately and have several 
times since; can't find anything yet.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Craig" 

To: 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL



On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 18:21:59 -0500 "WILTON"  wrote:


Temp has never been any worry at all before; 'just now since I replaced
the glow plugs.  Prob started immediately when I replaced glow plugs.


Kind of points to the glow plugs, doesn't it? Or maybe something you
disturbed when changing the plugs. I'd suspect the glow plugs first.
Maybe they were mis-boxed -- it's happened to me before.


Craig

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[MBZ] Aiming headlights [was Re: Fog Light Rant]

[Craig]

On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 19:52:16 -0500 Walt Zarnoch 
wrote:

> I also have a personal preference to aim the drivers side headlight a
> half degree or so lower than pass side, so the low-beam cut is well
> below the oncoming traffic's line of site. Pass side is also a little
> lower than oem, again personal preference.
> 
> I'd say it depends on who uses them and for what purpose they are being
> used.

It also depends upon who set up the car. I once rented a Ford Mustang at
Los Angeles International (LAX) for business travel up to Santa Barbara.
The low-beam cutoffs were adjusted dead level -- much too high for
on-coming traffic. I'm not sure if that was Ford or Budget, but I have
generally found Fords to be too high.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Walt Zarnoch]

That's nothing. People think I have my highs on all the time because my
side markers are partially clear... I frequently get the "blink you!" or
the "I'll turn every flipping light on" responses... They get the point if
I'm ticked enough to flash the high beams...

The fogs that were optional for my car are actually very well designed,
adjustable spread, sharp-cutoff.

My friend with the same car and the fog option leaves his on whenever the
low beams are on, and we have them adjusted to project more forwards
instead of to the side, slightly lower, sort of mid-way between the low and
high spreads, erring towards matching the low pattern.

Grievous misuse, but tested with him behind me you don't even notice it.
Oncoming traffic never gets blinded by it (tested that as well going down
his street), but can notice it just like the headlights.

I also have a personal preference to aim the drivers side headlight a half
degree or so lower than pass side, so the low-beam cut is well below the
oncoming traffic's line of site. Pass side is also a little lower than oem,
again personal preference.

I'd say it depends on who uses them and for what purpose they are being
used.

My 2 cents,

Walt
On Dec 18, 2011 1:07 PM, "Jim Cathey"  wrote:

> I've put another little rant on my web site:
>
> http://userweb.windwireless.**net/~jimc/fog.html
>
> This may evolve a bit over time, but I've been wanting
> to say this for some time.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
>
> __**_
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[Craig]

On Sun, 18 Dec 2011 18:21:59 -0500 "WILTON"  wrote:

> Temp has never been any worry at all before; 'just now since I replaced
> the glow plugs.  Prob started immediately when I replaced glow plugs.

Kind of points to the glow plugs, doesn't it? Or maybe something you
disturbed when changing the plugs. I'd suspect the glow plugs first.
Maybe they were mis-boxed -- it's happened to me before.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[WILTON]

Yes, something's WRONG; not the starter and not bat.
BTW, 'never been worried 'bout hurting the starter; just no need to grind on 
it if engine is not "ready" to run.

'Don't mind grinding when necessary.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Allan Streib" 

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL



"WILTON"  writes:


It'll spin plenty rapidly, but I don't wanta grind/spin it so; if glow
plugs are doing what they usually do, just a touch of the starter will
start it. 52F this morning; glowed 30 sec. twice before START; 'fired
immediately with a touch of the starter -  maybe 1/4 turn; well, not
much more, anyway.


The Mercedes diesel starters are tough, after all the recommended cold
start practice is to keep the starter engaged until the engine is firing
smoothly.  I wouldn't worry about hurting the starter with 30 seconds of
cranking, but at 50 degrees you are right, neither multiple glows or
extended use of the starter should not be necessary.  Something is
wrong.

Allan

--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[WILTON]

Temp has never been any worry at all before; 'just now since I replaced the 
glow plugs.  Prob started immediately when I replaced glow plugs.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" 

To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 3:54 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL


Unless the battery is really in trouble I don't think we're talking cold 
enough to really worry about that. Even around freezing a 60x engine 
should start well even with 15w40 conventional oil provided the preglow 
system, battery and starter are all in good shape.


-Curt

Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2011 00:45:43 -0500
From: "Scott and Gwen Ritchey" 
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL
Message-ID: <94554D107C564FC9ADAE552FB1E96FAE@ScottPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

What kind of oil in motor, too thick?  You have hydraulic lifters, I think
(if so shouldn't be valve adjust problem)?

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 4:31 PM
To: mercedes list
Subject: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

Several months ago, I installed 6 new glow plugs in the SDL.  Since then,
when its cool, below 50F or so, I have to glow it for 3 or 4 30-second
cycles to start it without "grinding" starter.  Glow light gives normal
indications, fuse is good/new (yes, it really is - good power (12v) on 
both
sides of fuse), relay clicks at 30 seconds, continuity check of all plugs 
is
good.  'Does same way with another good relay.  Plugs are obviously 
heating

some -' just takes longer/several times when engine is cold.  When it
starts, all cyls fire evenly with nice, smooth idle.  'Seems that when it
gets warm enough to start, all cyls have warmed evenly.  'Just realized
something I haven't done yet - check voltage at each of the 6 relay pins
during the 30-second cycle.  Always before, 'cept when plugs are bad, it
started with just a touch of the starter switch to START.

When I replaced the glow plugs, I did not ream the holes; suppose carbon
build-up is keeping the plugs from heating as rapidly or as well as it
normally has?  'Spose my  need for additional glowing is due to carbon
build-up?

Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Larry]

Hello Dimitri,
   With the 602 engine it's not possible to R&R the GPs without removing 
the intake manifold.   At least I have never found a way unless I find a way 
to make my hands shrink to 1/10 of their size!


   In general I will typically go ahead and replace all 5 - mostly because 
if 3 died the other 2 will likely be on their way out..


   Even though 2 of the 5 looked good, I put all new ones in - I'll keep 
the old 2 that look good for a while but would not consider installing used 
ones in a location which is so hard to reach.Now I can test the 2 that 
appear good - based on the amount of carbon/gunk on the heating surfaces --  
and see if I can learn anything about them.


Thanks for the info
LarryT
91 300D -

-Original Message- 
From: Dimitri Seretakis

Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 3:51 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

I agree with you. Keep the old good ones in your car as emergency spares. 
When a glow plug fails and leaves you stranded it's going to be cold out. 
Usually really cold. Not fun.


Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 18, 2011, at 3:46 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all the 
plugs pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing all of them 
at once. He was of the mind that you need only replace them when they failed 
and only replace those that had failed.


Under Marshall's rule I had to replace plugs in the dark at -10F once. NEVER 
AGAIN!


Both of my cars have plugs that are right around 1 year and 20,000 miles 
old. At the first sign of problems all 4 in a car will be replaced at the 
earliest possible opportunity. Theres nothing less fun than trying to start 
a car without all the glowplugs...


-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:43:17 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

They live until they die.  some quickly, others list long. varies by
type and manufacturer too.


Howdy --
  My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This
week I noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight
my wife tried to come home and it would not start.  As luck would
have it I had planned to replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!
Just one day too late!

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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Rich Thomas]

no, what I did was flash my high beams, then if they flashed theirs, I 
would put on the high beams and hit the 100Wers.  That got their 
attention but I am sure they had no idea as to why I would do such a 
thing.  One guy actually stopped once, waved me down as he was coming 
toward me, and asked why I had done that.  So I said, pull your car 
over, get out, walk out in front, and take a look at it while all your 
lights are on, you will understand.  Don't know if he did that or not, 
but it was the second step in his education.  Being as it was in Texas, 
he could just as well as shot my ass, but that is the risk you take as 
an educator!


--R

On 12/18/11 4:51 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Rich Thomas wrote:
A pair of 100W Dick Cepek off-road lights aimed a bit to the left are 
adequate counter-measures.


So the fog light users, or most of them anyway, know the fog lights 
are on, and turn them off when you flash your auxiliaries at them?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Allan Streib]

Further, the Dodge and Subaru "fog" lights are not even the proper
yellow color.  The yellow is a result of selective filtering of the blue
light which would otherwise cause glare in the fog.

Didn't know you could easily rewire the fogs to be independent of the
low beams.  I'll put that on my list.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Upper Cyl Head Cleaning

[Larry]

Thanks Peter -
   I had used only M1 for years until the difficulty in finding 15W40 
and/or 15W50.  Plus the cost is not insignificant.But I'd rather pay the 
delta & go to 10,000 mile oil changes if it'll get rid of that junk in the 
engine.   Thanks for the engineering analysis!  It's always helpful to see 
the details in B&W.


   It's all back together at the moment but I might check with my machine 
shop and get together on a time to bring the X-over and Intake manifold to 
them so they can put it in their engine tank.  Cleaning the Upper 
Cylinder/Valve Pockets will be more difficult.  I might get some or most of 
the gunk out buy stuffing paper towels into the upper chamber / valve 
chamber and "mop" some of the gunk out - but it'd be hard not to let a piece 
fall into a open intake valve.  That engine is too valuable not to take the 
"easy" route and switch back to Mobil 1.


Thx agn,
Larry
91 300D

-Original Message- 
From: Peter Frederick

Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 9:20 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Upper Cyl Head Cleaning

The black crud is a combination of engine oil and soot from the EGR.
Since we use only Mobil 1 in all our diesels, my brother and I no
longer have problems with the stuff accumulating -- the all had gobs
of gunk when we got them, but after switching to Mobil 1 and
cleaning, the problem is gone.

The gunk accumulates because dino oils will coke (turn to hard slag)
at the temperatures encountered in the intake just down from the EGR
port and the valve stems.

I'd not worry about it other than to scrape out what you can get
from the intake manifold  and use synthetic oil if you do not.  Have
a care not to let a glob go out the pipe, as I suspect this is one
way those engines get bent rods.

With synthetic oil, the soot slowly washes down with the blowby and
does not accumulate.

Peter

On Dec 18, 2011, at 8:12 AM, Larry wrote:

There are several companies advertising stuff and using before/ after 
photos of the upper cylinder head area – photos showing the  valve stems 
being all cruddy looking in the before (or without)  photo and nice clean 
valve stems in the after/with photo.


OK -- the point?   When I removed the intake manifold yesterday  I saw 
my valve stems and sure enough they were very dirty with all  kinds of 
black crud (technical term).


Has anyone found a product that actually works to keep the  engine 
areas cleaner?  I’m not sure it would even make the engine  better in any 
way to be rid of this crud  - and yes the intake  manifold is full of the 
same black stuff.


I guess I just like things to be clean ...

Suggestions?  (other than leave it alone or forget about it?)

LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Mitch Haley]

Rich Thomas wrote:
A pair of 100W Dick Cepek off-road lights aimed a bit to the left are 
adequate counter-measures.


So the fog light users, or most of them anyway, know the fog lights are on, and 
turn them off when you flash your auxiliaries at them?


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Axle Failed

[Mitch Haley]

The prices you mention seem high. Call Rusty in the morning, I'm sure he has 
them cheaper than his web site shows.


If necessary I could sell you one of my 240D shafts, but the shipping would not 
be cheap unless you're very close to southern Michigan.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Axle Failed

[Allan Streib]

John Ingram  writes:

> Over the years I have taken most of this car apart but never an axle.
> Is it difficult to replace?  I notice that there are  replacement
> axles available starting at $159.95, remanufactured at  $270, and GKN
> Drivetech at $471.  Does anyone have any experience  with these?

Rusty claims that the Chinese axles are actually a good value in this
case.  I'd call him on Monday.

To replace, you need to open up the diff to remove the retaining clip.
After that they pretty much just pop out.  Plan on replacing the axle
seals, and the gear oil in the diff (obviously).

Allan
--
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[Allan Streib]

"WILTON"  writes:

> It'll spin plenty rapidly, but I don't wanta grind/spin it so; if glow
> plugs are doing what they usually do, just a touch of the starter will
> start it. 52F this morning; glowed 30 sec. twice before START; 'fired
> immediately with a touch of the starter -  maybe 1/4 turn; well, not
> much more, anyway.

The Mercedes diesel starters are tough, after all the recommended cold
start practice is to keep the starter engaged until the engine is firing
smoothly.  I wouldn't worry about hurting the starter with 30 seconds of
cranking, but at 50 degrees you are right, neither multiple glows or
extended use of the starter should not be necessary.  Something is
wrong.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Allan Streib]

Curt Raymond  writes:

> Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all
> the plugs pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing
> all of them at once. He was of the mind that you need only replace
> them when they failed and only replace those that had failed.

Problem is a Beru plug is $20.  So a proactive replacement of all 5 on a
617 is $100.  If you have no idea what's there, I can see doing it, and
hanging on to the good ones as emergency spares.  After that, if you
want to be proactive, check the current draw in the fall before it gets
really cold and replace any that aren't working properly.

Allan

-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica

[Dan Penoff]

I never owned one of the Webasto gas fired heaters, but I had a buddy who had a 
Karmann Ghia with one.

Froze or fried is right! That thing would run you out in short order.

Scared the heck out of me because it was gas(online) fired. I was convinced the 
thing would blow up one day...

Dan

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 18, 2011, at 3:51 PM, "WILTON"  wrote:

> "fried or froze" sounds like B-52 heating system.
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "Curt Raymond" 
> To: "Diesel List" 
> Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 3:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica
> 
> 
>> Could have a Webasto heater, those were available equipment.
>> 
>> My mother's first car was a similar era beetle. She said the problem wasn't 
>> in having enough heat it was in being able to control it adequately. 
>> Apparently you either fried or froze, there were no in between settings.
>> 
>> Living in northern Maine and the land of harsh winters my mother had a Type 
>> 3 VW which had totally inadequate heat which knowing my Dad was probably 
>> enhanced by totally rotten heat exchangers. Anyway they had a small 
>> catalytic propane heater which would heat the inside of the car in about 2 
>> minutes. However you had to be really careful because it was so hot it would 
>> melt the dash... The car is gone, blew a rod out through the side of the 
>> case on I-95 one day but still made it home. The heater lives on in my 
>> Uncle's airplane...
>> 
>> -Curt
>> 
>> Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 21:14:22 -0500
>> From: Mitch Haley 
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica
>> Message-ID: <4eed4c7e.4020...@voyager.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>> 
>> Craig wrote:
>> 
>>> A video to amuse you.
>>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_FftkcIIdg
>> 
>> This isn't what I've heard about Beetles driven in Michigan in the winter:
>> 
>> "Despite the cold outside, the heater keeps the inside comfortable.
>> The demister keeps the windscreen clear."
>> 
>> Mitch.
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Peter Hertzing]

I am with Curt on this one.  As I shared in a different thread - I replaced
all of mine for reasons I don't remember this summer and it starts GREAT,
like when I got back from driving a bus for 10 hours back and forth to
Chicago the other night and it was 4AM and the car was frosty.  One 30
second glow and I was on the road heading to my warm bed.  Pretty cheap
insurance in my book. (And in the case being discussed far cheaper then
marriage counseling.)

Peter

On Sun, Dec 18, 2011 at 2:46 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all the
> plugs pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing all of
> them at once. He was of the mind that you need only replace them when they
> failed and only replace those that had failed.
>
> Under Marshall's rule I had to replace plugs in the dark at -10F once.
> NEVER AGAIN!
>
> Both of my cars have plugs that are right around 1 year and 20,000 miles
> old. At the first sign of problems all 4 in a car will be replaced at the
> earliest possible opportunity. Theres nothing less fun than trying to start
> a car without all the glowplugs...
>
> -Curt
>
> Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:43:17 -0600
> From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"
>
> They live until they die.  some quickly, others list long. varies by
> type and manufacturer too.
>
>
> >Howdy --
> > My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This
> >week I noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight
> >my wife tried to come home and it would not start.  As luck would
> >have it I had planned to replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!
> >Just one day too late!
>
> ___
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> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[Curt Raymond]

Unless the battery is really in trouble I don't think we're talking cold enough 
to really worry about that. Even around freezing a 60x engine should start well 
even with 15w40 conventional oil provided the preglow system, battery and 
starter are all in good shape.

-Curt

Date: Sun, 18 Dec 2011 00:45:43 -0500
From: "Scott and Gwen Ritchey" 
To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL
Message-ID: <94554D107C564FC9ADAE552FB1E96FAE@ScottPC>
Content-Type: text/plain;charset="us-ascii"

What kind of oil in motor, too thick?  You have hydraulic lifters, I think
(if so shouldn't be valve adjust problem)?

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 4:31 PM
To: mercedes list
Subject: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

Several months ago, I installed 6 new glow plugs in the SDL.  Since then,
when its cool, below 50F or so, I have to glow it for 3 or 4 30-second
cycles to start it without "grinding" starter.  Glow light gives normal
indications, fuse is good/new (yes, it really is - good power (12v) on both
sides of fuse), relay clicks at 30 seconds, continuity check of all plugs is
good.  'Does same way with another good relay.  Plugs are obviously heating
some -' just takes longer/several times when engine is cold.  When it
starts, all cyls fire evenly with nice, smooth idle.  'Seems that when it
gets warm enough to start, all cyls have warmed evenly.  'Just realized
something I haven't done yet - check voltage at each of the 6 relay pins
during the 30-second cycle.  Always before, 'cept when plugs are bad, it
started with just a touch of the starter switch to START.

When I replaced the glow plugs, I did not ream the holes; suppose carbon
build-up is keeping the plugs from heating as rapidly or as well as it
normally has?  'Spose my  need for additional glowing is due to carbon
build-up?

Wilton

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Dimitri Seretakis]

I agree with you. Keep the old good ones in your car as emergency spares.  When 
a glow plug fails and leaves you stranded it's going to be cold out. Usually 
really cold. Not fun.

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 18, 2011, at 3:46 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all the plugs 
pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing all of them at once. 
He was of the mind that you need only replace them when they failed and only 
replace those that had failed.

Under Marshall's rule I had to replace plugs in the dark at -10F once. NEVER 
AGAIN!

Both of my cars have plugs that are right around 1 year and 20,000 miles old. 
At the first sign of problems all 4 in a car will be replaced at the earliest 
possible opportunity. Theres nothing less fun than trying to start a car 
without all the glowplugs...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:43:17 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

They live until they die.  some quickly, others list long. varies by
type and manufacturer too.


Howdy --
   My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This
week I noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight
my wife tried to come home and it would not start.  As luck would
have it I had planned to replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!
Just one day too late!

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Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica

[WILTON]

"fried or froze" sounds like B-52 heating system.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" 

To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 3:42 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica



Could have a Webasto heater, those were available equipment.

My mother's first car was a similar era beetle. She said the problem 
wasn't in having enough heat it was in being able to control it 
adequately. Apparently you either fried or froze, there were no in between 
settings.


Living in northern Maine and the land of harsh winters my mother had a 
Type 3 VW which had totally inadequate heat which knowing my Dad was 
probably enhanced by totally rotten heat exchangers. Anyway they had a 
small catalytic propane heater which would heat the inside of the car in 
about 2 minutes. However you had to be really careful because it was so 
hot it would melt the dash... The car is gone, blew a rod out through the 
side of the case on I-95 one day but still made it home. The heater lives 
on in my Uncle's airplane...


-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 21:14:22 -0500
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica
Message-ID: <4eed4c7e.4020...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Craig wrote:


A video to amuse you.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_FftkcIIdg


This isn't what I've heard about Beetles driven in Michigan in the winter:

"Despite the cold outside, the heater keeps the inside comfortable.
The demister keeps the windscreen clear."

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[WILTON]

It'll spin plenty rapidly, but I don't wanta grind/spin it so; if glow plugs 
are doing what they usually do, just a touch of the starter will start it. 
52F this morning; glowed 30 sec. twice before START; 'fired immediately with 
a touch of the starter -  maybe 1/4 turn; well, not much more, anyway.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Curt Raymond" 

To: "Diesel List" 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 3:34 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL


This would be my guess too. However if you're getting the chance to crank 
3 different times for 30 seconds I'm doubting the battery itself. Maybe a 
slight corrosion on the cables? Easy to check at the battery end.


-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 17:43:29 -0600
From: Peter Frederick 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL
Message-ID: <049818bf-7805-4b8a-b72d-e872ca784...@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

Slow start cold is a symptom of a weak battery or a dying starter,
this is exactly what my 300D did last winter.  Not start, excessive
cranking, lots of white smoke.  Started like new about 32F, no go at
all below.

New battery fixed it right up.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Curt Raymond]

Marshall and I used to fight about this. I'd suggested replacing all the plugs 
pro-actively every 50,000 miles or so and always replacing all of them at once. 
He was of the mind that you need only replace them when they failed and only 
replace those that had failed.

Under Marshall's rule I had to replace plugs in the dark at -10F once. NEVER 
AGAIN!

Both of my cars have plugs that are right around 1 year and 20,000 miles old. 
At the first sign of problems all 4 in a car will be replaced at the earliest 
possible opportunity. Theres nothing less fun than trying to start a car 
without all the glowplugs...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 22:43:17 -0600
From: Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com>
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" ; format="flowed"

They live until they die.  some quickly, others list long. varies by
type and manufacturer too.


>Howdy --
> My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This
>week I noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight
>my wife tried to come home and it would not start.  As luck would
>have it I had planned to replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!
>Just one day too late!

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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[Curt Raymond]

I went through this a lot with my '96 Dodge Dakota, apparently it was an early 
'96 and used a lot of '95 parts.
I remember having trouble with the starter, blower motor and alternator 
specifically.

The starter especially, the '96 wasn't even close to right.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 21:16:33 -0500
From: Allan Streib 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL
Message-ID: 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

"WILTON"  writes:

> 'Has the original head and prechambers; I've driven it 108 kmi since
> chain broke; R & R glow plugs several times.  This is third time I've
> changed all of 'em since chain broke.

Sometimes parts catalogues are wrong.  I always compare the old and new
parts when I am exchanging anything.  I recently bought spark plugs for
my Focus, the computer said one thing but when I brought them home they
were clearly about 1cm shorter between the seat and the electrode than
the OE Motorcraft ones.

All they guy at NAPA did when I brought them back was shrug and say
"listing must be wrong."  We tried another brand on the same list and
they were correct.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD



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Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica

[Curt Raymond]

Could have a Webasto heater, those were available equipment.

My mother's first car was a similar era beetle. She said the problem wasn't in 
having enough heat it was in being able to control it adequately. Apparently 
you either fried or froze, there were no in between settings.

Living in northern Maine and the land of harsh winters my mother had a Type 3 
VW which had totally inadequate heat which knowing my Dad was probably enhanced 
by totally rotten heat exchangers. Anyway they had a small catalytic propane 
heater which would heat the inside of the car in about 2 minutes. However you 
had to be really careful because it was so hot it would melt the dash... The 
car is gone, blew a rod out through the side of the case on I-95 one day but 
still made it home. The heater lives on in my Uncle's airplane...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 21:14:22 -0500
From: Mitch Haley 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Fw: vw antartica
Message-ID: <4eed4c7e.4020...@voyager.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed

Craig wrote:

> A video to amuse you.
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_FftkcIIdg

This isn't what I've heard about Beetles driven in Michigan in the winter:

"Despite the cold outside, the heater keeps the inside comfortable.
The demister keeps the windscreen clear."

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Rich? Max?

[Curt Raymond]

Did you leave a 1 out of your post? 2 tons curb weight would leave out many 
50's-60's era cars...

-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 19:17:20 -0600
From: Hans Neureiter 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rich? Max?
Message-ID:

Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

CDL is required by weigth (over 2 tons curb weigth and more than 2
axles) and if "for hire".
I can drive a 6 axle  100 ton Grove down the freeway without any DL at all.
And there are School bus drivers. Different Endorsement.

On Sat, Dec 17, 2011 at 12:35 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> Nothing to do with air brakes, if it's 26k or over have to gave cdl
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 17, 2011, at 11:25 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:
>
> > Air breaks? I was under the impression that air brakes made it a CDL
> vehicle even though he claims its "under CDL weight" which I would have
> expected. Back in my Boy Scout Camp days I got to drive an IH Loadstar
> stakebody of about the same size many times.
> >
> > -Curt

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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[Curt Raymond]

This would be my guess too. However if you're getting the chance to crank 3 
different times for 30 seconds I'm doubting the battery itself. Maybe a slight 
corrosion on the cables? Easy to check at the battery end.

-Curt

Date: Sat, 17 Dec 2011 17:43:29 -0600
From: Peter Frederick 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL
Message-ID: <049818bf-7805-4b8a-b72d-e872ca784...@earthlink.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; delsp=yes; format=flowed

Slow start cold is a symptom of a weak battery or a dying starter, 
this is exactly what my 300D did last winter.  Not start, excessive 
cranking, lots of white smoke.  Started like new about 32F, no go at 
all below.

New battery fixed it right up.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] Get your teen a BMW with heated seats and sunroof for the Holidays!!! - $1400

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Sat, Dec 17, 2011 at 2:10 PM, Rich Thomas
 wrote:
> What a bargain!  Better than a lump of coal!
>
> http://charleston.craigslist.org/cto/2748017179.html
>

Alas, poor E34!

One of the top half-dozen best-looking postwar 4-door sedans IMHO.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Axle Failed

[Michael Canfield]

The two kinds are interchangeable.  There are spacers on the diff end you
may have to change to get the clip to set tight to the side gear.

Mike
On Dec 18, 2011 2:52 PM, "Rich Thomas" 
wrote:

> They are pretty easy to replace if you follow the procedure.  The worst
> part is opening the diff to get at the clip, and getting it back in.  Make
> sure you first open the filler so you can be sure that you will be able to
> refill the diff through a non-seized filler.  Also make sure you have
> adequate jack standing and all that to hold the car up enough so that you
> can crawl under to do the job.  You have to undo the diff and move it
> up/down a bit and the top bolts are a bit tricky too, but not that bad.  I
> got to where I changed the 3rd one in about an hour after I got the car
> organized for the job.  It helps to go to the coin carwash and clean under
> there very well before doing the job, get all the gunk off the bits.  If
> you can drive that far...take some ramps with you to get it up in the air a
> bit so you can clean it well!
>
> I replaced 3 on the TD (one a second time after a junkyard version
> failed).  Whatever Rusty sells works fine, or if you feel confident on a
> junkyard version, that might hold up too though you never know.  Oh, there
> are 2 different kinds, make sure you get the right one for your car.
>
> --R
>
> On 12/18/11 2:38 PM, John Ingram wrote:
>
>> At least I got home.  The axle on my 83 240D has failed.  Tap tap tap
>> turned into clack clack clack in about 10 miles of driving.  While crawling
>> around under the car on the side of the road, I discovered that the outer
>> boot on the passenger side axle is torn and that is where the sound was
>> coming from.  I guess the CV joint is shot.  What else could it be?
>> Over the years I have taken most of this car apart but never an axle.  Is
>> it difficult to replace?  I notice that there are replacement axles
>> available starting at $159.95, remanufactured at $270, and GKN Drivetech at
>> $471.  Does anyone have any experience with these?
>>
>> (This car is a very late 1983 240, one of the last ones sent over.)
>>
>> Thank you,
>> John I.
>> 83 240D  288K
>>
>> __**_
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>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>>
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>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Axle Failed

[Rich Thomas]

They are pretty easy to replace if you follow the procedure.  The worst 
part is opening the diff to get at the clip, and getting it back in.  
Make sure you first open the filler so you can be sure that you will be 
able to refill the diff through a non-seized filler.  Also make sure you 
have adequate jack standing and all that to hold the car up enough so 
that you can crawl under to do the job.  You have to undo the diff and 
move it up/down a bit and the top bolts are a bit tricky too, but not 
that bad.  I got to where I changed the 3rd one in about an hour after I 
got the car organized for the job.  It helps to go to the coin carwash 
and clean under there very well before doing the job, get all the gunk 
off the bits.  If you can drive that far...take some ramps with you to 
get it up in the air a bit so you can clean it well!


I replaced 3 on the TD (one a second time after a junkyard version 
failed).  Whatever Rusty sells works fine, or if you feel confident on a 
junkyard version, that might hold up too though you never know.  Oh, 
there are 2 different kinds, make sure you get the right one for your car.


--R

On 12/18/11 2:38 PM, John Ingram wrote:
At least I got home.  The axle on my 83 240D has failed.  Tap tap tap 
turned into clack clack clack in about 10 miles of driving.  While 
crawling around under the car on the side of the road, I discovered 
that the outer boot on the passenger side axle is torn and that is 
where the sound was coming from.  I guess the CV joint is shot.  What 
else could it be?
Over the years I have taken most of this car apart but never an axle.  
Is it difficult to replace?  I notice that there are replacement axles 
available starting at $159.95, remanufactured at $270, and GKN 
Drivetech at $471.  Does anyone have any experience with these?


(This car is a very late 1983 240, one of the last ones sent over.)

Thank you,
John I.
83 240D  288K

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Re: [MBZ] 240D Axle Failed

[Michael Canfield]

It's not a hard job at all.  I could go through it but if you google r&r
w123 axle shaft there are a couple good writeups already.

Mike
On Dec 18, 2011 2:38 PM, "John Ingram"  wrote:

> At least I got home.  The axle on my 83 240D has failed.  Tap tap tap
> turned into clack clack clack in about 10 miles of driving.  While crawling
> around under the car on the side of the road, I discovered that the outer
> boot on the passenger side axle is torn and that is where the sound was
> coming from.  I guess the CV joint is shot.  What else could it be?
> Over the years I have taken most of this car apart but never an axle.  Is
> it difficult to replace?  I notice that there are replacement axles
> available starting at $159.95, remanufactured at $270, and GKN Drivetech at
> $471.  Does anyone have any experience with these?
>
> (This car is a very late 1983 240, one of the last ones sent over.)
>
> Thank you,
> John I.
> 83 240D  288K
>
> __**_
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>
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Re: [MBZ] 240D Axle Failed

[Dimitri Seretakis]

Yes it's the axle shaft. The cheap ones are Chinese! I've never done this job 
but plenty here have. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 18, 2011, at 2:38 PM, John Ingram  wrote:

At least I got home.  The axle on my 83 240D has failed.  Tap tap tap turned 
into clack clack clack in about 10 miles of driving.  While crawling around 
under the car on the side of the road, I discovered that the outer boot on the 
passenger side axle is torn and that is where the sound was coming from.  I 
guess the CV joint is shot.  What else could it be?
Over the years I have taken most of this car apart but never an axle.  Is it 
difficult to replace?  I notice that there are replacement axles available 
starting at $159.95, remanufactured at $270, and GKN Drivetech at $471.  Does 
anyone have any experience with these?

(This car is a very late 1983 240, one of the last ones sent over.)

Thank you,
John I.
83 240D  288K

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[MBZ] 240D Axle Failed

[John Ingram]

At least I got home.  The axle on my 83 240D has failed.  Tap tap tap  
turned into clack clack clack in about 10 miles of driving.  While  
crawling around under the car on the side of the road, I discovered  
that the outer boot on the passenger side axle is torn and that is  
where the sound was coming from.  I guess the CV joint is shot.  What  
else could it be?
Over the years I have taken most of this car apart but never an  
axle.  Is it difficult to replace?  I notice that there are  
replacement axles available starting at $159.95, remanufactured at  
$270, and GKN Drivetech at $471.  Does anyone have any experience  
with these?


(This car is a very late 1983 240, one of the last ones sent over.)

Thank you,
John I.
83 240D  288K

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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Rich Thomas]

A pair of 100W Dick Cepek off-road lights aimed a bit to the left are 
adequate counter-measures.


--R

On 12/18/11 1:38 PM, Russ Williams wrote:

Spot on Jim.
Fog light misuse is one of my bugs too.

Russ W.

On 12/18/2011 12:15 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

I've put another little rant on my web site:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/fog.html

This may evolve a bit over time, but I've been wanting
to say this for some time.

-- Jim



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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2108/4088 - Release Date: 12/18/11




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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Russ Williams]

Spot on Jim.
Fog light misuse is one of my bugs too.

Russ W.

On 12/18/2011 12:15 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:

I've put another little rant on my web site:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/fog.html

This may evolve a bit over time, but I've been wanting
to say this for some time.

-- Jim



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No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1415 / Virus Database: 2108/4088 - Release Date: 12/18/11




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Re: [MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Mitch Haley]

Jim Cathey wrote:

I've put another little rant on my web site:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/fog.html


I have a solution. I haven't implemented it yet, but I'm THIS CLOSE to doing it.

Those little blue wire taps they make for tapping into the brake light wires to 
hook up a trailer harness? Modify them so that both wires go straight through, 
so you can use them to connect two existing wires instead of connecting the end 
of a new wire into the middle of an existing wire.


Now, take your leatherman pocket tool, 4" channellocks, whatever, and connect 
the ground wire to the hot wire on one of the offender's fog lamps. Problem 
solved. If, like 90% of these idiots, he didn't even know his fog lamps were on, 
he won't even notice. If he notices, he might find the blown fuse and replace 
it. When the new fuse blows, he'll either give up, or buy a bigger fuse and give 
up when that blows.


Mitch.

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[MBZ] Fog Light Rant

[Jim Cathey]

I've put another little rant on my web site:

http://userweb.windwireless.net/~jimc/fog.html

This may evolve a bit over time, but I've been wanting
to say this for some time.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 89 300e ?

[Peter Frederick]

Probably the most important thing is a properly working fuel  
distributor.  Parts are getting VERY expensive.


Next is suspension -- that car used the old design suspension links  
and they are likely dead if not replaced fairly recently.  Not a huge  
job, but they drive horribly until you get them all in.  I need to  
finish mine before it snows, the rear end is really squirrely.  Very  
nice handling when they are intact.


Front suspension ditto -- plan on ball joints if not done recently,  
they are likely dead of old age.  Upper strut mounts too, see if they  
are not.  Front swaybar bushing shrink and rattle, also the frame  
mounts are a joke and break all the time if you have to drive on  
rough pavement.


None of this is horribly difficult or expensive to do, but you do  
want to factor it in.


ACC is a problem, quite a few of these cars have failed AC  
evaporators, and that job is pure hell.  Not really difficult, but  
the rate book calls for 16 hours to do it.  Blower replacement is  
common, and a pain although you can get to it from the front.   
Pushbutton units and sensors fail, resulting in erratic operation.   
I've not successfully rebuilt a unit yet, although I may try since  
the TE is getting really out of spec.


Early M013s suffered from excessive valve guide wear and failed cam  
lobes, so be aware of that.  Also known for a leak and the front  
camshaft cover seal and weak head gaskets.  Easy to fix, but again  
you need to consider in the price.  Not cheap for a shop.


If it's not been done, you will need to replace the idle control  
valve hoses and the boot between throttle body and air flow sensor  
horn -- these cause terrible running and throttle response problems.   
A pain to do.  Leaking injector seals are an issue, and leaks at the  
sleeve for the injectors, often overlooked, also cause rough idle and  
performance problems.


If it runs well and drives nicely, it's a great car (my brother and I  
have four between us, plus a W126).


Peter

On Dec 18, 2011, at 10:48 AM, Michael Canfield wrote:

Looking at an 89 300e.  I know nothing about the gassers and this  
chassis.

What should I look for?  What is too high for mileage?

Thanks, Mike
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[MBZ] 89 300e ?

[Michael Canfield]

Looking at an 89 300e.  I know nothing about the gassers and this chassis.
What should I look for?  What is too high for mileage?

Thanks, Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Upper Cyl Head Cleaning

[Jim Cathey]

Has anyone found a product that actually works to keep the engine 
areas cleaner?


A metal plate, strategically applied...
(Maybe not for your car.)

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

[WILTON]

M1, hyd lifters.

Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: "Scott and Gwen Ritchey" 

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 12:45 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL



What kind of oil in motor, too thick?  You have hydraulic lifters, I think
(if so shouldn't be valve adjust problem)?

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of WILTON
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 4:31 PM
To: mercedes list
Subject: [MBZ] Glowing ]91 350SDL

Several months ago, I installed 6 new glow plugs in the SDL.  Since then,
when its cool, below 50F or so, I have to glow it for 3 or 4 30-second
cycles to start it without "grinding" starter.  Glow light gives normal
indications, fuse is good/new (yes, it really is - good power (12v) on 
both
sides of fuse), relay clicks at 30 seconds, continuity check of all plugs 
is
good.  'Does same way with another good relay.  Plugs are obviously 
heating

some -' just takes longer/several times when engine is cold.  When it
starts, all cyls fire evenly with nice, smooth idle.  'Seems that when it
gets warm enough to start, all cyls have warmed evenly.  'Just realized
something I haven't done yet - check voltage at each of the 6 relay pins
during the 30-second cycle.  Always before, 'cept when plugs are bad, it
started with just a touch of the starter switch to START.

When I replaced the glow plugs, I did not ream the holes; suppose carbon
build-up is keeping the plugs from heating as rapidly or as well as it
normally has?  'Spose my  need for additional glowing is due to carbon
build-up?

Wilton
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Re: [MBZ] Upper Cyl Head Cleaning

[Peter Frederick]

The black crud is a combination of engine oil and soot from the EGR.   
Since we use only Mobil 1 in all our diesels, my brother and I no  
longer have problems with the stuff accumulating -- the all had gobs  
of gunk when we got them, but after switching to Mobil 1 and  
cleaning, the problem is gone.


The gunk accumulates because dino oils will coke (turn to hard slag)  
at the temperatures encountered in the intake just down from the EGR  
port and the valve stems.


I'd not worry about it other than to scrape out what you can get   
from the intake manifold  and use synthetic oil if you do not.  Have  
a care not to let a glob go out the pipe, as I suspect this is one  
way those engines get bent rods.


With synthetic oil, the soot slowly washes down with the blowby and  
does not accumulate.


Peter

On Dec 18, 2011, at 8:12 AM, Larry wrote:

There are several companies advertising stuff and using before/ 
after photos of the upper cylinder head area – photos showing the  
valve stems being all cruddy looking in the before (or without)  
photo and nice clean valve stems in the after/with photo.


OK -- the point?   When I removed the intake manifold yesterday  
I saw my valve stems and sure enough they were very dirty with all  
kinds of black crud (technical term).


Has anyone found a product that actually works to keep the  
engine areas cleaner?  I’m not sure it would even make the engine  
better in any way to be rid of this crud  - and yes the intake  
manifold is full of the same black stuff.


I guess I just like things to be clean ...

Suggestions?  (other than leave it alone or forget about it?)

LarryT
91 300D
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[MBZ] Upper Cyl Head Cleaning

[Larry]

There are several companies advertising stuff and using before/after photos 
of the upper cylinder head area – photos showing the valve stems being all 
cruddy looking in the before (or without) photo and nice clean valve stems in 
the after/with photo.

OK -- the point?   When I removed the intake manifold yesterday I saw my 
valve stems and sure enough they were very dirty with all kinds of black crud 
(technical term).

Has anyone found a product that actually works to keep the engine areas 
cleaner?  I’m not sure it would even make the engine better in any way to be 
rid of this crud  - and yes the intake manifold is full of the same black 
stuff.  

I guess I just like things to be clean ...

Suggestions?  (other than leave it alone or forget about it?)  

LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Peter Frederick]

There are two failure modes for pencil glow plugs -- either the  
filament breaks and the GP goes open or the filament sags and shorts  
on the side somewhere (or worse, the weld at the tip breaks, leaving  
a tiny hole) and the filament grounds on the side of the pencil.


The shorted ones still heat, but not at the point, so the relay still  
"sees" adequate current draw and doesn't flash the indicator lamp, etc.


Peter

On Dec 18, 2011, at 8:01 AM, Larry wrote:

Thanks to all who responded - I replaced them yesterday with new  
Bosch - 3 of the 5 were not working


Uh,  Scott - you wrote - "older 917's"  would that be a Porsche  
917? ;-)


It does have a fusible link - or maybe just a fuse? on the inner  
fender - the new GPs fixed it - it fired instantly - better than it  
had started in a while but it's such a subtle thing that gets worse  
slowly and is not really noticeable.


Thanks again -
LarryT
91 300D


-Original Message- From: Scott and Gwen Ritchey
Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 12:37 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

Not sure about your 91 but the older 917s had a fusible link in the  
GP relay
on the left inside fender which was often the culprit if sudden no- 
start.
If yours has a similar fuse, don't just inspect visually but loosen  
the

screws to make sure it's really one piece.  The one in my 82 300SD was
cracked in two but you couldn't tell by looking with it installed.   
When I

loosened one screw half of the fuse fell out.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes- 
boun...@okiebenz.com]

On Behalf Of Larry
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 11:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

Howdy --
   My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This  
week I
noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight my wife  
tried to
come home and it would not start.  As luck would have it I had  
planned to

replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!  Just one day too late!

   Anyway, she a RN at the local VA hospital and we called a tow  
company to
get a jump - hopefully she'll be heading home shortly.  Yep, we are  
waiting
for the tow truck as I speak.  Of course, I'm at home in bed and  
she's in a
cold car during a cold rain after working 2 - 8 hour shifts.  She's  
not real

happy at the moment.

   So, I figure if I had seen the GP failure coming I could have  
avoided al

of this unpleasantness.

   What's the consensus?   Can we say they have a 100,000 mile  
lifespan?
When I was looking at the GP technology I found some new GPs that  
are said
to "heat up in 4 sec" - I guess it's possible since the new diesels  
don't
require a GP warm-up period.   At least that's what I've heard and  
read.


Comments?
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Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

[Larry]

Thanks to all who responded - I replaced them yesterday with new Bosch - 3 
of the 5 were not working


Uh,  Scott - you wrote - "older 917's"  would that be a Porsche 917? ;-)

It does have a fusible link - or maybe just a fuse? on the inner fender - 
the new GPs fixed it - it fired instantly - better than it had started in a 
while but it's such a subtle thing that gets worse slowly and is not really 
noticeable.


Thanks again -
LarryT
91 300D


-Original Message- 
From: Scott and Gwen Ritchey

Sent: Sunday, December 18, 2011 12:37 AM
To: 'Mercedes Discussion List'
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

Not sure about your 91 but the older 917s had a fusible link in the GP relay
on the left inside fender which was often the culprit if sudden no-start.
If yours has a similar fuse, don't just inspect visually but loosen the
screws to make sure it's really one piece.  The one in my 82 300SD was
cracked in two but you couldn't tell by looking with it installed.  When I
loosened one screw half of the fuse fell out.

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Larry
Sent: Saturday, December 17, 2011 11:56 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Glow Plug Lifespan??

Howdy --
   My 91 300D needed new GPs in 2006 at around 100K Miles.  This week I
noticed it wasn't starting as crisply as normal and tonight my wife tried to
come home and it would not start.  As luck would have it I had planned to
replace the GPs in the morning.  Oops!  Just one day too late!

   Anyway, she a RN at the local VA hospital and we called a tow company to
get a jump - hopefully she'll be heading home shortly.  Yep, we are waiting
for the tow truck as I speak.  Of course, I'm at home in bed and she's in a
cold car during a cold rain after working 2 - 8 hour shifts.  She's not real
happy at the moment.

   So, I figure if I had seen the GP failure coming I could have avoided al
of this unpleasantness.

   What's the consensus?   Can we say they have a 100,000 mile lifespan?
When I was looking at the GP technology I found some new GPs that are said
to "heat up in 4 sec" - I guess it's possible since the new diesels don't
require a GP warm-up period.   At least that's what I've heard and read.

Comments?
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