Re: [MBZ] An educational video

[dave walton]

That's a keeper! Next time I give a talk on the OWASP Top 10, I'm starting
off with that just for fun. The kids today think a Commodore 64 started it
all. That will show them.

-Dave Walton


On Saturday, January 12, 2013, Craig wrote:

> On Sat, 12 Jan 2013 17:45:28 -0500 Rich Thomas
> > wrote:
>
> > Complete with 1950s monster movie music!
> >
> > http://hackaday.com/2012/12/31/retrotechtacular-fluid-coupling/
>
> One of the comments mentioned a Navy fire control computer film, so I
> took the fellow's suggestion and looked it up on YouTube.
>
> It is at Mechanical Computer (All Parts) - Basic Mechanisms In Fire
> Control Computers <http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s1i-dnAH9Y4> and it
> interesting as
> well.
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] 97 E300 Diesel

[dave walton]

Non-turbo. Save your money and get a 99 with ESP, but it will still rust.

On Wednesday, January 9, 2013, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

> Most likely a rust bucket
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 9, 2013, at 5:36 PM, Rick Knoble >
> wrote:
>
> > This one is going to sell quick. If I had cash, I'd be on it.
> >
> > No affiliation, not mine, etc.
> >
> > http://chicago.craigslist.org/wcl/cto/3532402998.html
> >
> > --
> > Sent from c•PRO+ for iPhone and iPod
> >
> >
> > Rick
> > Sent from my iPhone
> > ___
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> >
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Voice recognition software

[dave walton]

I've seen several similar controllers advertised by startups over the years
which never became real products. If they can pull it off it will be a
great product. Only a fool would send them money now.

-Dave Walton

On Monday, January 7, 2013, Rich Thomas wrote:

> Check this thing out  https://leapmotion.com/product
>
> --R
>
> On 1/7/13 10:21 AM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>> I got my iphone at the beginning of December and it and I just don't get
>> along on voice recognition.
>> The other day I was trying "Homewood Suites, Malvern, PA" and it kept
>> wanting to use "Holiday Inn, Malvern, PA" or "Home Ice Slates" or Hot Inns
>> sleets" but it always got "Malvern, PA". I was flabbergasted that it
>> couldn't get Homewood suites but could get Malvern, PA. I finally typed it
>> in and the GPS worked fine...
>>
>> Having come from Android there are a few things that drive me crazy about
>> the iphone. I think its worse because the overall experience is very good
>> so the things I find annoying stand out that much more dramatically.
>>
>>
>> -Curt
>>
>> Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2013 23:03:54 -0500
>> From: Rich Thomas 
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - Voice recognition software
>> Message-ID: <50ea492a.7020...@constructivity.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
>>
>> I got an ipad for Christmas, and that Siri thing is downright amazing.
>> It does not seem to require learning my voice, and got it right from the
>> git-go.
>>
>> --R
>>
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>
>>
>
> __**_
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Re: [MBZ] OT ipad email

[dave walton]

It's not as secure, but you can have each browser remember the login for a
given account so you don't have to login to each every time. I have over 16
different browsers (all free) in one tab that I use for testing web apps.
Each could go directly to the inbox of its own mail account.

On Wednesday, December 26, 2012, Tim C wrote:

> On Wed, Dec 26, 2012 at 12:09 PM, OK Don >
> wrote:
>
> > I use seperate browsers for different gmail accounts - makes it easy to
> > access and sort content.
>
>
> Now you can log in to multiple accounts on a single browser, at least for
> Gmail - click your username in the top right.
>
> Best,
> Tim
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Re: [MBZ] OT ipad email

[dave walton]

One more thing - I have multiple gmail accounts setup under the iPad mail
app. One of them periodically fails sending and retrieving mail. Its a
known Gmail bug. You can download the free Gmail app and use it for the
problematic account if you need to.

On Tuesday, December 25, 2012, dave walton wrote:

> If you have multiple accounts set up, you can tap the "From" field and
> select which account sends the mail. The first tap will open up the CC and
> BCC fields, then you tap the "From" field again and you are presented with
> a list of accounts to choose from.
>
> On Tuesday, December 25, 2012, Rich Thomas wrote:
>
>> I used the same settings I have on my laptop and desktop machines, I have
>> sent emails using another account and they worked fine. It is kinda funny,
>> using the gmail smtp server for outbound mail on one account makes it show
>> up as my gmail account even though I am sending it from another
>> account/email addy.
>>
>> --R
>>
>> On 12/25/2012 5:36 PM, Fmiser wrote:
>>
>>> Rich Thomas wrote:
>>>> I am trying to send email from an ipad, it says email address
>>>> (this one) rejected by server, which I guess is the okie
>>>> server.   I managed to set it up to get mail OK.  What do I
>>>> need to do to send?
>>>>
>>> Just like a "real" computer, the send (SMTP) is a whole
>>> different protocol than receive (POP3 or IMAP).  Both have to be
>>> set up, and often use a different server. Like "mail.domain.com"
>>> for receive and "smtp.domain.com" for send.
>>>
>>> For example, to send using a Gmail account, under the section
>>> called "Outgoing Mail Server" set "SMTP" to smtp.gmail.com.
>>>
>>> --   Philip
>>>
>>> __**_
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
>>>
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>>
>>>
>>
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>>
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Re: [MBZ] OT ipad email

[dave walton]

If you have multiple accounts set up, you can tap the "From" field and
select which account sends the mail. The first tap will open up the CC and
BCC fields, then you tap the "From" field again and you are presented with
a list of accounts to choose from.

On Tuesday, December 25, 2012, Rich Thomas wrote:

> I used the same settings I have on my laptop and desktop machines, I have
> sent emails using another account and they worked fine. It is kinda funny,
> using the gmail smtp server for outbound mail on one account makes it show
> up as my gmail account even though I am sending it from another
> account/email addy.
>
> --R
>
> On 12/25/2012 5:36 PM, Fmiser wrote:
>
>> Rich Thomas wrote:
>>> I am trying to send email from an ipad, it says email address
>>> (this one) rejected by server, which I guess is the okie
>>> server.   I managed to set it up to get mail OK.  What do I
>>> need to do to send?
>>>
>> Just like a "real" computer, the send (SMTP) is a whole
>> different protocol than receive (POP3 or IMAP).  Both have to be
>> set up, and often use a different server. Like "mail.domain.com"
>> for receive and "smtp.domain.com" for send.
>>
>> For example, to send using a Gmail account, under the section
>> called "Outgoing Mail Server" set "SMTP" to smtp.gmail.com.
>>
>> --   Philip
>>
>> __**_
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>> To search list archives 
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/**mailman/listinfo/mercedes_**okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] corn ethanol

[dave walton]

Do you let the free market allocate resources to the people willing to pay
the most, or do you let the government step in and control who gets what
and at what price? It might keep you from a good night's sleep to know that
our selfish lifestyle would be the direct cause of suffering and death in
other parts of the world, but wait - it already is.

On Sunday, December 9, 2012, G Mann wrote:

> Valid point. In fact, there is currently a looming shortage of all grains
> worldwide. Russia, and the Balkan states for example have had more than two
> years of drought and low production. Rice is going short in the Pacific rim
> for this years production. Famine is just around every corner you look.
>
> People are starving, or about to starve, and we are turning edible corn
> into untaxed whisky to burn in our cars. Can anyone say "irresponsible"
> loud enough? Let me just adjust the "feel good, save the planet" volume
> control... a there, I can hardly hear the cry of starving
> children.. much better.
>
> Grant...
>
> On Sun, Dec 9, 2012 at 10:39 AM, OK Don  wrote:
>
> > Also with the return (at least it feels like it here) of the dust bowl,
> > that excess capacity might not be so "excess" as it seems. We might need
> to
> > eat that corn, what little is produced during the droughts.
> >
> > On Sun, Dec 9, 2012 at 11:14 AM, dave walton 
> > wrote:
> >
> > > Assuming the current political environment that gives us relatively
> cheap
> > > oil will continue ad infinitum is naive.
> > > Failure to prepare alternatives would be irresponsible.
> > >
> > > On Sunday, December 9, 2012, Rich Thomas wrote:
> > >
> > > > The US is poised to become a net energy exporter and reserves now
> > exceed
> > > > the ME.  With Canada, N America is awash in oil.  Using corn for fuel
> > is
> > > > somewhat nonsensical.
> > > >
> > > > --R
> > > > On 12/9/12 10:33 AM, Dave Walton wrote:
> > > >
> > > > The infrastructure is already in place to produce, store, distribute
> > and
> > > > process corn. Given the millions of gallons of fuel we use per day it
> > is
> > > > currently the only alternative to oil we could possibly fall back on
> in
> > > > short notice if we had to.
> > > >
> > > > On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:19 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:
> > > >
> > > >  Read this in another forum.
> > > > Any comments? Loren?
> > > >
> > > > Mitch.
> > > >
> > > >
> > http://www.fatwallet.com/**forums/finance/1239047/**m17370463/#m17370463
> > > <http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1239047/m17370463/#m17370463>
> > > >
> > > > Corn ethanol wasn't really a scam, at least not originally. You have
> to
> > > > understand how it began.
> > > >
> > > > During the Dust Bowl of the Great Depression, the U.S. suffered crop
> > > > failures. So on top of the economic woes, food prices skyrocketed.
> The
> > > > country vowed never again, and began subsidizing food production.
> This
> > > > insured that every year there was an oversupply of food, and (by
> paying
> > > > farmers not to plant crops) there was excess food production capacity
> > > which
> > > > we could "turn on" to make up for shortfalls if it looked like a
> > natural
> > > > disaster might cause a shortage. This meant that every year, the U.S.
> > had
> > > > more corn than it needed (the #1 crop in the U.S.). When supply
> exceeds
> > > > demand, prices fall. To prevent corn farmers from going bankrupt and
> > > > jeopardizing production, the government began buying corn at a floor
> > > price
> > > > which was above market price. Corn farmers could thus be guaranteed
> > > they'd
> > > > receive $x/bushel and plan around that price to stay in business,
> even
> > if
> > > > left to its own devices the market would've set a lower price.
> > > >
> > > > That's the rationale between the two biggest crop subsidies. How does
> > > this
> > > > relate to ethanol? Well, since the government was buying all that
> corn,
> > > > that meant after all Americans had eaten their fill of corn, there
> was
> > > > still a lot left over. They had to figure out ways to use that extra
> > > corn.
> > > > The first obvious use was feed for cattle. Then someone figured out
> you
> > > > could convert it into fructose as a cane sugar substitute (and thus
> > high
> > > > fructose corn syrup was born). A lot of it is also given away as
> > foreign
> > > > aid.
> > > >
> > > > But there was still a bunch left over. During the Arab oil embargo in
> > the
> > > > 1970s, someone in the government looked at all that extra corn and
> > asked
> > > > themselves, "I wonder if there's some way to convert it into fuel for
> > > > cars?" And thus was born corn ethanol. Corn wasn't
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Re: [MBZ] corn ethanol

[dave walton]

Assuming the current political environment that gives us relatively cheap
oil will continue ad infinitum is naive.
Failure to prepare alternatives would be irresponsible.

On Sunday, December 9, 2012, Rich Thomas wrote:

> The US is poised to become a net energy exporter and reserves now exceed
> the ME.  With Canada, N America is awash in oil.  Using corn for fuel is
> somewhat nonsensical.
>
> --R
> On 12/9/12 10:33 AM, Dave Walton wrote:
>
> The infrastructure is already in place to produce, store, distribute and
> process corn. Given the millions of gallons of fuel we use per day it is
> currently the only alternative to oil we could possibly fall back on in
> short notice if we had to.
>
> On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:19 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:
>
>  Read this in another forum.
> Any comments? Loren?
>
> Mitch.
>
> http://www.fatwallet.com/**forums/finance/1239047/**m17370463/#m17370463<http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1239047/m17370463/#m17370463>
>
> Corn ethanol wasn't really a scam, at least not originally. You have to
> understand how it began.
>
> During the Dust Bowl of the Great Depression, the U.S. suffered crop
> failures. So on top of the economic woes, food prices skyrocketed. The
> country vowed never again, and began subsidizing food production. This
> insured that every year there was an oversupply of food, and (by paying
> farmers not to plant crops) there was excess food production capacity which
> we could "turn on" to make up for shortfalls if it looked like a natural
> disaster might cause a shortage. This meant that every year, the U.S. had
> more corn than it needed (the #1 crop in the U.S.). When supply exceeds
> demand, prices fall. To prevent corn farmers from going bankrupt and
> jeopardizing production, the government began buying corn at a floor price
> which was above market price. Corn farmers could thus be guaranteed they'd
> receive $x/bushel and plan around that price to stay in business, even if
> left to its own devices the market would've set a lower price.
>
> That's the rationale between the two biggest crop subsidies. How does this
> relate to ethanol? Well, since the government was buying all that corn,
> that meant after all Americans had eaten their fill of corn, there was
> still a lot left over. They had to figure out ways to use that extra corn.
> The first obvious use was feed for cattle. Then someone figured out you
> could convert it into fructose as a cane sugar substitute (and thus high
> fructose corn syrup was born). A lot of it is also given away as foreign
> aid.
>
> But there was still a bunch left over. During the Arab oil embargo in the
> 1970s, someone in the government looked at all that extra corn and asked
> themselves, "I wonder if there's some way to convert it into fuel for
> cars?" And thus was born corn ethanol. Corn wasn't anywhere near as
> efficient a crop for ethanol production as sugar cane (which can only
> really grow in Florida and Hawaii) and sugar beets (which will grow pretty
> much anywhere). But that was beside the point becuase we had a bunch of
> extra corn sitting around which was otherwise going to grow moldy or feed
> rats.
>
> So converting it into ethanol made sense even if the overall energy input
> exceeded the energy you got out from it. The energy put into growing the
> excess corn is a sunk cost - we were going to write it off anyway. So as
> long as the energy to convert it into ethanol is less than you get from
> burning the ethanol, it makes sense to do it. Only the energy needed to
> convert excess corn to ethanol matters; the energy which went into growing
> the corn in the first place isn't a factor.
>
> But then the corn industry lobby got involved. And now a program which was
> originally intended for and made sense with excess corn, has been expanded
> to cover corn grown specifically for the purpose of converting it to
> ethanol. When you do that, the economics of it fall apart, and sugar beets
> make a lot more sense. But the government is paid for and bought by
> lobbyists, so we have a mutant corn ethanol program which no longer makes
> financial sense.
>
> __**_
> http://www.okiebenz.com
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> http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>
>
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> To 

Re: [MBZ] corn ethanol

[Dave Walton]

The infrastructure is already in place to produce, store, distribute and 
process corn. Given the millions of gallons of fuel we use per day it is 
currently the only alternative to oil we could possibly fall back on in short 
notice if we had to.

On Dec 9, 2012, at 9:19 AM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> Read this in another forum.
> Any comments? Loren?
> 
> Mitch.
> 
> http://www.fatwallet.com/forums/finance/1239047/m17370463/#m17370463
> 
> Corn ethanol wasn't really a scam, at least not originally. You have to 
> understand how it began.
> 
> During the Dust Bowl of the Great Depression, the U.S. suffered crop 
> failures. So on top of the economic woes, food prices skyrocketed. The 
> country vowed never again, and began subsidizing food production. This 
> insured that every year there was an oversupply of food, and (by paying 
> farmers not to plant crops) there was excess food production capacity which 
> we could "turn on" to make up for shortfalls if it looked like a natural 
> disaster might cause a shortage. This meant that every year, the U.S. had 
> more corn than it needed (the #1 crop in the U.S.). When supply exceeds 
> demand, prices fall. To prevent corn farmers from going bankrupt and 
> jeopardizing production, the government began buying corn at a floor price 
> which was above market price. Corn farmers could thus be guaranteed they'd 
> receive $x/bushel and plan around that price to stay in business, even if 
> left to its own devices the market would've set a lower price.
> 
> That's the rationale between the two biggest crop subsidies. How does this 
> relate to ethanol? Well, since the government was buying all that corn, that 
> meant after all Americans had eaten their fill of corn, there was still a lot 
> left over. They had to figure out ways to use that extra corn. The first 
> obvious use was feed for cattle. Then someone figured out you could convert 
> it into fructose as a cane sugar substitute (and thus high fructose corn 
> syrup was born). A lot of it is also given away as foreign aid.
> 
> But there was still a bunch left over. During the Arab oil embargo in the 
> 1970s, someone in the government looked at all that extra corn and asked 
> themselves, "I wonder if there's some way to convert it into fuel for cars?" 
> And thus was born corn ethanol. Corn wasn't anywhere near as efficient a crop 
> for ethanol production as sugar cane (which can only really grow in Florida 
> and Hawaii) and sugar beets (which will grow pretty much anywhere). But that 
> was beside the point becuase we had a bunch of extra corn sitting around 
> which was otherwise going to grow moldy or feed rats.
> 
> So converting it into ethanol made sense even if the overall energy input 
> exceeded the energy you got out from it. The energy put into growing the 
> excess corn is a sunk cost - we were going to write it off anyway. So as long 
> as the energy to convert it into ethanol is less than you get from burning 
> the ethanol, it makes sense to do it. Only the energy needed to convert 
> excess corn to ethanol matters; the energy which went into growing the corn 
> in the first place isn't a factor.
> 
> But then the corn industry lobby got involved. And now a program which was 
> originally intended for and made sense with excess corn, has been expanded to 
> cover corn grown specifically for the purpose of converting it to ethanol. 
> When you do that, the economics of it fall apart, and sugar beets make a lot 
> more sense. But the government is paid for and bought by lobbyists, so we 
> have a mutant corn ethanol program which no longer makes financial sense.
> 
> ___
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> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] '91 350 SDL $6500

[dave walton]

Yes. Oil fills cylinder and exhaust smokes terribly. No external leak. I
thought it was bad turbo and bent rod #1 before I figured it out. It's
worth a preventive head gasket change in my opinion. At least then you can
do it when you want to instead of when you have to. Newer revisions have
reinforced the known weak spot.

On Sunday, December 9, 2012, Mitch Haley wrote:

> WILTON wrote:
>
>> Timing chain broke at 89 kmi, Jun '96; replaced 3 or 4 valves and
>> lifters, shaved head, new head gasket, of course, bunch of other stuff I
>> don't remember.  Nothing done to lower part of eng.  Changed T chain again
>> at ~195 kmi.
>>
>
> I'm 90% sure the replacement engines were supposed to be good by 1996.
> I wonder about an original engine with a 1996 head gasket. Having the head
> milled flat again after 89000 miles and thousands of heat cycles would also
> tend to improve the reliability of the head gasket.
>
> I also wonder if the problem is moot as long as the owner keeps watch for
> oil leaks near the front of the head and changes the head gasket promptly
> when seepage starts. Is it possible to fill the #1 cylinder with oil and
> not leak any to the outside of the engine?
>
> Mitch.
>
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Re: [MBZ] biodiesel shipments

[dave walton]

Is there still a $1/gallon tax incentive for producing biodiesel?

On Thursday, December 6, 2012, Mitch Haley wrote:

> They shipped the same stuff across a border repeatedly, are they gaming
> some sort of gov't incentive program?
>
> http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/**story/2012/11/30/cn-biodiesel-**
> mystery-shipment.html
>
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Re: [MBZ] Beltless

[dave walton]

http://www.dieselpowermag.com/features/0810dp_2008_volkswagen_touareg_v10_tdi/viewall.html

VW diesel V10 Touareg. Uses gears. Might be a belt inside the thing
somewhere, but no external belts.

-Dave Walton

On Monday, December 3, 2012, wrote:

> > ..Hmm.  There are of course plenty of cars out there with chain-driven
> > cams,
> > and a few with gear-driven ones... but was an engine ever made with no
> > belts at all?  I.e., all accessories chain- or gear- driven?  (Not
> > counting
> > motorcycle engines since they don't have any accessories to speak of.)..
> >
> There are a few new cars with no belts.
>
> RLE
> >
> >
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Re: [MBZ] OM 603 head gasket

[dave walton]

Yes. Weak point in front of #1 cylinder leaks oil into cylinder when it
blows. If you don't catch it soon enough it will bend the #1 connecting
rod. Can use dial gauge to measure distance pistons protrude from head at
top of stroke. You have to pull engine and transmission together, then
remove transmission to get to the bottom end.

Specifications during reassembly say to torque head bolts wet as I recall.

Dr. Booth was proponent of using Hylomar on the head gasket.

-Dave Walton

On Thursday, November 22, 2012, Rick Knoble wrote:

> A bad head gasket makes oil smoke? Oil from the oil passages gets into the
> combustion chambers?
>
> Rick
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Nov 21, 2012, at 9:52 PM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Not doing rings for a head gasket.
> >
> >> On Nov 21, 2012, at 4:41 PM, "Dieselhead" 
> >> <126die...@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >>> Looks like I get to change my first OM 603 head gasket.  SDL has oil
> smoke, and oil running out the exhaust.
> >>
> >>> Anything I am missing on these three lists?
> >>
> >>
> >> Piston rings?
> >>
> >> Rick
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >
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Re: [MBZ] Volvo? now fast tractors

[dave walton]

No worse than riding a buggy on 2 lane rural roads posted at 55mph.

On Saturday, November 17, 2012, Rich Thomas wrote:

> Some of the Amish have some sort of dispensation about tractors, so they
> put road gears in them and can go quite fast.  They build these little
> wagon buggy things they can all crowd into, and go to Walmart and Tractor
> Supply.  I see them doing this in KY, it is funny as hell except it looks
> like a total recipe for disaster and death and destruction.
>
> -R
>
> On 11/17/12 2:04 PM, Michael Canfield wrote:
>
>> My neighbor put a hot running Chevy 250 inline 6 in an old Oliver 66.  He
>> got clocked @ 60mph skidding logs down a state highway.  Cop didn't give
>> him a ticket because he was afraid of getting laughed out of the station
>> house for writing a farm tractor a ticket for speeding on a 55mph road.
>>
>> Mike
>> On Nov 17, 2012 12:59 PM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>  
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JAdIlgaAwMc&feature=related
>>> **
>>> >
>>>
>>> That is hilarious, especially in the field.   I showed it to a friend and
>>> he told me about a guy he baled hay with that put a nash engine in a
>>> Cockshutt.  (55 to 65 era)  Cockshutts were known for high road speeds.
>>>   With a big engine, he could pull the baler and 2 hayracks down the
>>> road at
>>> 30 MPH.
>>>
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>>> >
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT Quotes with comment

[dave walton]

In Europe, the Opel line has a reputation similar to the Yugo here. I drove
an Opel Manta in the 70's. Okay car but a bit tinny. It had fuel injection
a full decade before it became popular with US automakers.

There was a joke in Germany - Why do Opel owners keep a bale of straw in
the back seat? - So when the straw falls out of their head they can stuff
more in.

Loses something in translation, but you get the idea.

-Dave Wallton

On Sunday, November 11, 2012, Jim Cathey wrote:

> I remember that car [Kadett] well, as it was so poorly built and "tin
>> cannish" it wasn't funny.
>>
>
> My HS math teacher had a Kadett.  (Logging town, "B" school, you can
> imagine
> the pay grade.)  She lived with her parents, and I think the Kadett was
> well-used by that time.  Not much of a car, is what we all thought of it.
> I imagine it was as close to free as a car could get, I do recall rust.
>
>  interior was so spartan I seem to recall that it had rubber mats and no
>> carpet.
>>
>
> As did my Falcon.  When I had it restored I had to have it carpeted,
> since a molded-to-fit rubber mat wasn't available.  The carpet _is_
> nicer, but a hose-out interior has its place too!
>
> -- Jim
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] Sandy

[dave walton]

Was driving up I-71 last night and passed a convoy of 50+ tree service
trucks heading north with plates from down south.

Someone is expecting a lot of damage.

-Dave Walton

On Sunday, October 28, 2012, Craig wrote:

> How are you all over on the east coast doing? What kind of preparations
> have you made?
>
>
> Craig
>
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Re: [MBZ] Bio-Diesel

[dave walton]

Business owners decide between a balance of tax burden and services. If I
can't get trucks to my warehouse because the bridges have been derated due
to deferred maintenance, I go out of business regardless of how low the
taxes are.

-Dave Walton

On Sunday, October 28, 2012, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> That's what I mean it seems only in the us is diesel much more expensive
>> than gas. Here gas dropped to 2.97, diesel at some spots is 3.79 but just a
>> few days ago was 4.09
>>
>>  Sent from my ePhone
>
>
> Have you ever looked at how much tax the gummit puts on it?  The think
> they are entitled to most of the price of a gallon of fuel. they are all
> drooling over raising fuel taxes.
>
> here, the supposedly "conservative"  goobernor is wanting to raise the
> taxes on fuel.  Hardly the position of a real conservative.  Of course in
> his previous administrations, he presided over wild increases of goobermnt
> reach, spending and cancerous growth.  That has made the state very
> uncompetitive, so he thinks the solution is more gooberment, not less.
>
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Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing grease?

[dave walton]

I like to use a bearing packer. These people have bulk Mercedes spec wheel
grease - $10 for 400g:

http://www.eurotruck-importers.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=1322

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Packer-Bearing/dp/B0002NYDYO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1351112741&sr=8-1&keywords=Bearing+packer

Cleaning out all the old grease with a solvent and filling the bearing with
new stuff probably has more to do with longevity than the specific grease
you use in my opinion. Blast the bearing with air to make sure you get all
the solvent out before you repack.

-Dave Walton


On Wednesday, October 24, 2012, Rich Thomas wrote:

> If it saves you the effort, a half tube (which I think is a small bit more
> than the specified amount) ends up packing the bearings, leaving a bit
> smeared in the hub, and then some excess here and there like on the axle
> stub.  I think as long as the whole hub is not packed full with grease,
> there will be some room for it to move around and not cause whatever
> problems.  A tube is like 2x the size of a toothpaste tube, so about a
> toothpaste tube amount of grease would be about right, maybe a bit more
> than that.
>
> I recall the Marshall admonition on the proper amount, and getting it down
> to the last fraction of a gram or something, and it did not make a great
> impression on me as being other than "that is what Mercedes specifies so
> that is what you do."  The dire warnings about having too much just did not
> move me much.  There is such a thing as being obsessive, and just greasing
> the bearing and getting on with life.
>
> --R
>
> On 10/24/12 4:36 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>
>> I was trying to avoid going to Harbor Freight. I hate Worcester...
>>
>> The one in question is under $10 and shipping is free because I'm an
>> Amazon Prime member.
>>
>> -Curt
>>
>>
>> Date: Wed, 24 Oct 2012 12:04:09 -0400
>> From: Michael Canfield 
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Wheel bearing grease?
>> Message-ID:
>>  
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
>>
>> I have seen the little ones at Harbor Freight on sale for under ten bucks.
>> They are actually quite accurate.
>>
>> Mike
>> On Oct 24, 2012 11:56 AM, "Randy Bennell"  wrote:
>>
>>  Do you know anyone with an office and a postal scale?
>>> I have adigital scale intended for that purpose and I expect it would be
>>> accurate enough.
>>> Don't recall what I paid for it but I got it at a big box office supply
>>> place - probably Staples.
>>>
>>> Randy
>>>
>>>
>>> On 23/10/2012 9:01 PM, Curt Raymond wrote:
>>>
>>>  How much wheel bearing grease in a 123 240D?
>>>>
>>>> My '78 needs one done soon and I figure its time to buy a scale, how
>>>> accurate do I have to be?
>>>>
>>>> I'm thinking about http://www.amazon.com/
>>>> American-Weigh-Black-Digital-*<http://www.amazon.com/**American-Weigh-Black-Digital-*>
>>>> *Pocket/dp/B0012N1NAA/ref=sr_**1_**2?ie=UTF8&qid=1351043590&**sr=8-**
>>>> 2&keywords=digital+scale>>> Weigh-Black-Digital-Pocket/dp/**B0012N1NAA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&**
>>>> qid=1351043590&sr=8-2&**keywords=digital+scale<http://www.amazon.com/American-Weigh-Black-Digital-Pocket/dp/B0012N1NAA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1351043590&sr=8-2&keywords=digital+scale>
>>>> >
>>>>
>>>> which is cheap enough and eligible for Amazon prime free shipping. The
>>>> reviews are decent it seems like as long as I'm okay with 1gram or so of
>>>> variance which I think is probably acceptable, how much grease could be
>>>> in
>>>> 1 gram?
>>>>
>>>> -Curt
>>>>
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Re: [MBZ] 1982 300td everything is turning to crap

[dave walton]

These work for me when removing striped hex head bolts. No drilling
required.
http://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-53227-Multi-Spline-Extractor/dp/B0002SRG66

-Dave Walton

On Monday, October 15, 2012, Rick Hawkins Java wrote:

> Well, I removed the oil lines,
>
> I'm trying to change the engine mounts which will probably let me remove
> the lines when the mount is off on the driver's side.
>
> i can't remove the lower 8mm allen screw. The allen is clean and doesn't
> LOOK stripped, but it acts stripped
>
> same wrench feels solid on the other side
>
> ideas?
>
> i'm getting sick of this whole deal.
> thanks,
>
> xx rick
> Rick Hawkins
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Filterfor coolant?

[dave walton]

You can pick up a stainless filter housing on eBay that takes standard
filter cartridges for <$100. Don't use plastic.
Any filter media will reduce the flow somewhat. Determine the largest
particle size you want floating through the system and work back from there
to get the flow rate you need. McMaster has a wide variety of filters.

-Dave Walton

On Friday, October 12, 2012, Randy Bennell wrote:

> Does anyone have any ideas on how one might filter coolant on an engine?
> I admit I have not done any sort of google search etc. I am just putting
> this out here to see if anyone has encountered such a device or has ideas
> of how one might create such.
>
> The gist of it is that I would like to filter coolant on a boat engine.
> I have an inboard outboard that has been run for years with lake water
> pumped through it. - Only fresh water so not an issue of salt water
> corrosion but never-the-less somewhat rusty looking inside.
> I would like to install a closed system setup so that the engine uses
> anti-freeze and is cooled by the fresh water going through the heat
> exchanger.
> The folks on the boating forum suggest this is not going to work because
> the rust particles from the engine will clog up the heat exchanger passages.
> They say it should only be installed on a new engine.
> So, my thought is that there must be some fairly simple way to filter the
> water flowing through so that I can trap and remove the rust particles.
>
> There is some space available on a boat so not like trying to fit
> something  under the hood on a car.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Randy
>
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[MBZ] Ring compressor?

[Dave Walton]

I'm working on a 1991 300TE 4-Matic. Anyone out there tried the newfangled 
wrinkle band ring compressors? Do they work any better/worse than the sleeve 
style?

Thanks

-Dave Walton
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Re: [MBZ] I saw...

[Dave Walton]

How do I go about measuring the current draw of a 240v dryer, for example? Can 
I put a clamp-on ammeter on each hot wire and add the readings?

The electronics are driven by 120V (one leg) and I will not easily know which 
is used for it so I can't measure just one of them, right?

-Dave Walton

On Sep 29, 2012, at 10:18 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 21:10:05 -0500 OK Don  wrote:
> 
>> OK - could you wire the two neutrals of the two KAW's together, then see
>> the current?
> 
> No, a 220 (240) load does not draw current from the neutral.
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] I saw...

[dave walton]

For 220V could you take 2 kill-o-watts and put one on each hot wire?

On Thursday, September 27, 2012, Jim Cathey wrote:

> And then there's the fact that watts do not equal amps times
>>> volts when working with sine wave AC.
>>>
>>
>> Watts = Amps x AC Volts RMS, regardless of the waveform...
>>
>
> Exactly.  A little more background:  A non-true-RMS meter
> is usually actually a peak-reading meter.  For a sine wave
> the RMS voltage is 0.707 times the peak voltage, and so
> your AC range is calibrated to this value.  For sine waves
> you then read RMS (assumed) directly, but what you're really
> reading is peak voltage times the fudge factor.  This can be
> useful to know, if you need a peak reading voltmeter for
> a periodic (but non-sinusoidal) waveform.  Such a number is
> useless for wattage numbers, though, since you need RMS.
> Same for current.
>
> There are true-RMS meters out there, the Fluke 87 is one such.
> (My favorite Fluke 83 is not one.  I have both.  The 83's
> batteries last longer, it has one less IC in it.)
>
> For paid-for power you need wattage, and for that you need RMS
> voltage, current _and_ the power factor correction.  That is
> not a number you will get, not easily unless you actually have
> a wattmeter.  (I've got a couple, including the highly-useful
> Kill-O-Watt, but nothing that could measure a 220V heavy-duty
> appliance.)  With a current clamp and a dual-trace oscilloscope
> you could probably map out a pretty good guess, though.  (You
> have to integrate the instantaneous product of current and
> voltage across a cycle.  Tedious, by hand!)  That is, in fact,
> what a true wattmeter actually does, by some fashion.  (Power
> factor is calculated by taking the ratio of watts to the RMS
> voltage multiplied by the RMS current, ignoring phase.)  I
> know of three competing technologies for doing watts:
> emf-based meter 'motor' (vane, or actual spinning thing),
> analog multiplier/integrator, or digital integration.
> All are the same solution, just implemented with different
> technologies.  (Integrating the instantaneous product of
> voltage and current.)
>
> If EV chargers became widespread I'd expect the charging circuit
> to be somewhat elaborate, and power-factor corrected.  On a
> nationwide scale that would matter quite a lot.
>
> In fact, power factor itself isn't a very good number.  It
> assumes that essentially there is an inductive or capacitive
> phase shift, only.  The kind of thing that happens with
> motors, and inductive/capacitive loads.  With these, power
> factor is corrected, reducing unpaid-for losses in the transmission
> network, via compensating capacitors or inductors.  (Once upon a
> time this could be done with a synchronous rotating machine.
> The power savings alone would pay for a sinning installation
> to have this special machine installed and 'idling'.  Or a big
> capacitor bank; whatever was needed.)  A SMPS, though, can have
> a truly wretched power-draw cycle, essentially un-compensatable,
> and one that could give the rotating machinery nature of the
> power grid fits if it were large-scale enough.  Rotating AC
> sinewave sources really like feeding resistive loads, like
> heaters and incandescent lights, and rotating machinery.
> Anything that diverges far from that results in wasted
> energy, or at least wasted generating capacity.
>
> -- Jim
>
>
>
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Re: [MBZ] $100 HF Welder

[dave walton]

If you are looking at a name brand consider the price of upgrades. I regret
buying a Millermatic because the spool gun attachment (required for
aluminum) costs more than I paid for the welder. Adding one to a Lincoln
runs <$150.

Gas can help but is pricey. For playing around and teaching I use straight
CO2. The welds are not as good but it's dirt cheap. We refill a 50# tank
for <$30.

-Dave Walton

On Saturday, September 22, 2012, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> I was going to buy one of those HF welders last year.  After reading
> reviews, I decided to look for used name brand.  Put an ad on craizedlist,
> and it turned up a Century, also set up for gas, but no tank, for $100.
>  Bought that.  I have a friend who is a professional toolmaker, and he got
> a used hobart handler (not sure wich model) but he told me several yeas ago
> he uses it for 95% of his welding, and the expensive machines sit, except
> for special occasions.
>
> The century is not as good as lincoln or hobart, but it does well enough
> for the 2 times a year I need to tack some things together.  I sold a John
> Deere stick welder for more, so I bought this little 110 V FCW machine.  I
> am satisfied, and think it is a notch or two better than HF.  It is NOT a
> production machine by any stretch.
>
> I could not find new headgear for my old helmet for under $40, so I bought
> a HF autodark helmet.  CHEAP but still good money for a helmet. (compared
> to a regular helmet)  The autodark works and can be handy.  But the hinges
> and headgear are nowhere up to a good standard helmet.  Does not stay up
> well, and then flip down handsfree like a good ($100) helmet will.  A good
> helmet can actually make you a better welder, because you can get
> everything set up and then nod your head, the helmet comes down and you
> weld.
>
>
> I'd still look for a $100 used name brand welder.  Century is probably the
> bottom of the name brands.
>
>
>
>  Looks like I need to get myself a birthday present.  I guess I would need
>> to buy the helmet and gloves and all that stuff too.  But for learning, or
>> just hacking around, I guess that would not be much of an investment.  I
>> bought a book some years ago about learning welding, it seems like it is
>> easy to do, but like everything else, harder to do *well*.
>>
>> Do those auto-darkening helmets work well, or just stick with the dark
>> glass version?
>>
>> --R
>>
>
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Re: [MBZ] $100 HF Welder

[dave walton]

Several people involved with the local hackerspace have bought them and are
pleased with it's performance.
If you have trouble with it, try fresh wire. It goes stale.

-Dave Walton

On Saturday, September 22, 2012, Rich Thomas wrote:

> Is one of these things worth $100 or is it a useless POS?
>
> http://r.harborfreight22.com/**r2/r4.asp?r=22296_2104244&i=**
> Q32195D02H164&cust=**78032071190&keycode=1012&<http://r.harborfreight22.com/r2/r4.asp?r=22296_2104244&i=Q32195D02H164&cust=78032071190&keycode=1012&;>
>
> --R
>
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Re: [MBZ] Muffler Patch Methods?

[Dave Walton]

I've gone as far as cutting a section of pipe in half lengthwise, welding the 
top half from inside, then welding the bottom half from the outside, then 
welding back over the cut - to avoid having to remove things.

-Dave Walton

On Sep 10, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Max Dillon  wrote:

> That would require removing the exhaust system, car out of service for a day 
> our two.  Can't afford the down time right now.
> 
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300
> '87 300TD
> 
> Randy Bennell  wrote:
> 
>> I would think you should take it in to a shop and have it welded.
>> 
>> Randy
>> 
>> 
>> On 08/09/2012 7:24 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
>>> Anyone have a recommendation for a product to fill in an exhaust pipe
>>> diameter mis-match?  Would JB Weld be a good choice?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I had to cut out my catalytic converter, and the Y-pipe junction used
>> to do
>>> this is a little to large.  Muffler clamps and a couple relief cuts
>> will not
>>> clamp it down tight enough to eliminate the leaks.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Muffler Patch Methods?

[Dave Walton]

Silicon o-rings are good to 400-500F and might just work.

Long term I have no doubt that welding would last longer. Harbor Freight has a 
flux-core wire welder for $100. Don't buy flux wire until you need it. It goes 
stale. You will pay more for it at a gas supplier or welding store, but the 
good stuff can make all the difference. 

-Dave Walton

On Sep 8, 2012, at 9:34 AM, Tim C  wrote:

> On Sep 8, 2012 8:24 AM, "Max Dillon" 
> @ bellsouth.net >
> wrote:
>> 
>> Anyone have a recommendation for a product to fill in an exhaust pipe
>> diameter mis-match?  Would JB Weld be a good choice?
> 
> I don't think jbw likes vibration, unfortunately I don't have any better
> suggestions.  Maybe get some rubber mounting donuts and see if you can get
> them into the pipe? (Or donuts plus a slightly bigger pipe?)
> 
>> LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USN, Retired!!!
> 
> Congratulations!  So this happened sometime between 8:20 and 8:24 this
> morning? :)
> 
> Best,
> Tim
> 
>> 
>> 
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mercedes@okiebenz.com

[Dave Walton]

Make sure you put back the injection line support clips too. If you do not the 
engine vibrations will cause the lines to crack. I was lazy and found out the 
hard way. #6 broke off right at the injector. 


On Aug 23, 2012, at 11:41 PM, Peter Frederick  wrote:

> Also do not forget the support brackets for the glow plug wires.  if you 
> leave them out the brackets will fall down and short on the manifold.
> 
> Peter
> 
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mercedes@okiebenz.com

[Dave Walton]

I used Hylomar and reused the crossover pipe and manifold gaskets. Works fine. 
Check the green O-rings. If they are hard, replace. 

Mine was loaded up with an insane amount of oil residue from the EGR on the 
S350. I scraped out what I could get to then used the welding gloves to hold it 
while I pointed a propane torch into it to heat up the rest until it oozed out. 
Got several cups worth of crud. 

Hylomar now comes in a blue blister pack from Permatex. Easy to miss it. 

-Dave Walton

On Aug 23, 2012, at 11:00 PM, Alex Chamberlain  wrote:

> I'm getting ready to remove the intake manifold on the '87 300D in
> order to replace all the glow plugs at once, including reaming the
> prechambers.  (I've had three premature GP failures in the past six
> months or so, and suspect carboned-up prechambers.)  Also doing some
> other stuff that needs fixing and will be easy to get to while the
> manifold and crossover pipe are off, like a new valve cover gasket.
> I'll be changing the oil at the same time, but should I also plan to
> drain the coolant?  Also, what's the torque spec on the manifold
> bolts?  Should I put anything on the gasket or just put it on dry?
> 
> Thanks for any tips or hints.
> Alex
> 
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Re: [MBZ] W.M. Keck Observatory

[Dave Walton]

Be careful navigating Saddle road. Last time I was there the rental car add-on 
insurance did not cover any incident occurring on that road. It's the only way 
to get to the observatory short of a helicopter ride. It will snow near the 
peak and most people there have long forgotten how to drive in the stuff. You 
will even get black ice accumulating from the fog. 

Dive shops, boat charters and many others will give you 25-50% off the 
advertised tourist rate if you can convince them you are a resident. 

Best of luck!

-Dave Walton

On Aug 23, 2012, at 10:31 PM, Craig  wrote:

> I mentioned earlier (on the 9th, to be exact) about finding a position in
> Hawaii.
> 
> The position I found is a senior electronics engineer with the W. M. Keck
> Observatory. This position involves preparing equipment for the
> Observatory's two 10 meter telescopes. The telescopes are on the top of
> 13,796 foot Mauna Kea on the big island of Hawai'i. The Observatory's
> headquarters are off the mountain at Kameula, HI.
> 
> I did some revision of my CV, wrote a cover letter, and applied for the
> position on 16 August (a week ago).
> 
> I had not expected to hear anything about the postion, but I received a
> phone call today from a person in the Observatory's Human Resources
> Department. We talked for 25 - 30 minutes. He said if they choose to
> continue considering me, the next step would be either a call from the
> hiring manager if he needed more technical information or a panel phone
> call from 3 or so people around a speaker phone over there. This is
> exactly what happened for each of the four academic telephone interviews
> I had.
> 
> So, we shall see how things develop. Please pray about this position with
> me.
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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[MBZ] Repair manuals?

[Dave Walton]

I need documentation to do a head gasket replacement on a 1991 300TE. That's 
the W124 AWD wagon. My WIS CDs stopped working years ago. What else is 
available?

Thanks

-Dave Walton

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Re: [MBZ] OT - 3 Way Switch Wiring

[Dave Walton]

The 3 way is switching the neutral as well as power. You need to put additional 
lighting in parallel with the existing light with the new switch in series with 
the new light. 

-Dave Walton

On Aug 4, 2012, at 11:47 AM, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> Yeah, I know how to wire a three way switch, but I have added a wrinkle...
> 
> I have a three way switch arrangement for the lighting in my kitchen.  There 
> are switches at either end of the kitchen, either of which will turn on or 
> off the lighting.  A typical three way switch arrangement with two travelers, 
> etc.  This works just fine right now.
> 
> Here's the wrinkle:
> 
> I am adding some task lighting, for which I ran the romex from the "primary" 
> three way switch to the lighting.  I added a second single pole, single throw 
> switch to the box.  I tapped off the AC feed to the three way switch for the 
> power to the task lighting switch.
> 
> When the three way switch is turned on, the task lighting will turn on as 
> well, if its switch is on, as it will turn off when the three way switch goes 
> off.  When the kitchen lighting is off, the task lighting will not turn on 
> and as one would expect, there is no power at the input to the task lighting 
> switch.
> 
> While I haven't put pencil to paper and drawn this out yet, I am thinking 
> that I am getting a back feed through the "new" circuit that is preventing it 
> from working correctly.  This doesn't make total sense to me, unless I am not 
> at the box where the primary feed for the three way circuit is.  Either this 
> or the primary circuit is dropping to zero when it is on (potential to 
> ground) because there is now a load on it, effectively cutting off power to 
> the new lighting circuit.
> 
> I am wondering if I will need to put a diode in series to prevent this from 
> happening.
> 
> Anyone want to wrap their mind around this one?
> 
> Dan
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: recommend a home UPS

[Dave Walton]

If you want to be frugal, I've had good luck buying non-functional units and 
replacing the battery. 
eBay, Craigslist, garage sales...

ALL manufacturers have piss poor reliability for their consumer products. Too 
much price competition.

It's probably a bit large, but the APC Matrix 5000 pops up cheap on eBay and 
works fine with 12V car batteries (48V unit - you need sets of 4 batteries). 
Best to buy it local as it weighs over 200lbs. 

If you are concerned about UPS failure, you can use a transfer switch to 
connect 2 UPS units to one power strip with auto failover. Search eBay for "APC 
transfer switch". Make sure you get a 120V unit. Many you see will be 208V 
units made for splitting the legs off 3-phase power.

-Dave Walton

On Aug 3, 2012, at 4:24 AM, Ed Booher  wrote:

> Massive Cap bank and a battery wall.
> 
> EdB
> 
> Sent from my Windows 8 PC <http://windows.microsoft.com/consumer-preview>
> 
> *From:* Allan Streib 
> *Sent:* Wednesday, August 1, 2012 8:04:36 PM
> *To:* mercedes@okiebenz.com
> *Subject:* [MBZ] OT: recommend a home UPS
> 
> I have had bad luck with the small APC-brand UPSs I've bought from
> places like Office Despot.  I'm just looking for something that will
> give me 5 minutes or so to shut down our PC cleanly if the power fails
> and we're around, or keep it running during momentary power flickers
> (e.g. in a storm).  Any suggestions?
> 
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT - charging R134a systems

[Dave Walton]

Does oil escape with a leak or is it left behind? In other words - can I just 
add refrigerant or do I need to add oil as well?

-Dave Walton

On Jul 29, 2012, at 7:58 PM, Max Dillon  wrote:

> Yes, Mercedes 124 calls for a low viscosity oil, someone here posted it last 
> summer. I think the viscosity is determined by the compressor.
> 
> Then there is the mineral oil versus PAG oil debate...
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300
> '87 300TD
> 
> Dave Walton  wrote:
> 
> Are different oils used with R134a systems? If so, which does Mercedes use?
> 
> -Dave Walton
> 
> On Jul 29, 2012, at 7:38 PM, OK Don  wrote:
> 
>> Interesting! How would one know which R134a charts are right? Any way, from
>> this chart, my pressures are low, but the center vent temp is about right.
>> However, the ML's center vent temp is much lower. Makes one question ALL
>> the charts!
>> 
>> For vehicles currently running with freon R-134a only
>> Outside-low side---High side--Center vent temp
>> 100 F -40-50 psi ---200-250 psi 52-60 F
>> 110 F -50-60 psi ---250-300 psi 68-74 F
>> 
>> On Sun, Jul 29, 2012 at 6:11 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
>> 
>>> Those are the wrong charts.
>>> 
>>> Either you've got a leak and lost some of the charge, or your compressor
>>> is about dead.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> http://m.instructables.com/id/How-to-Repair-Automotive-AC/step1/freon-check/
>>> 
>>> From this site, looks to me like you should try adding some more
>>> refrigerant.
>>> --
>>> Max Dillon
>>> Charleston SC
>>> '95 E300
>>> '87 300TD
>>> 
>>> OK Don  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The chart at http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/HVAC/R134a.htm says 135 psi.
>>> ?
>>> ? ? ?
>>> 
>>> The calculator here says 134 -
>>> http://www.csgnetwork.com/r134apresstempconv.html
>>> 
>>> My pressure is higher ? ? ? ?
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Jul 29, 2012 at 4:03 PM, OK Don  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> So, add more R134a?
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> On Sun, Jul 29, 2012 at 4:00 PM, Russ Williams 
>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> High side should be in the 240 psi range for that OAT.
>>>>> 104(OAT)x2+32
>>>>> 
>>>>> Russ W.
>>>>> 
>>>>> On 7/29/2012 15:14, OK Don wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>> The van is not blowing "ICE COLD AIR". It's blowing 68F, not cold. It
>>> was
>>>>>> COLD when it was new in 1997.I hooked up the guages, and read low side
>>>>>> of 28 and high of 160 at 1600-2000 RPM. Does it need more refrigerant,
>>>>>> have
>>>>>> too much, or is something else wrong? Ambient temp is 104F.
>>>>>> Also, after some time on the road, 20-30 minutes, when you shut down
>>> the
>>>>>> car, we hear gurgling or boiling sounds from the evaporator area. What
>>> is
>>>>>> it trying to tell me?
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> _
> 
>>> **_
>>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<;
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>;;
>>>>> 
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>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> --
>>>> OK Don
>>>> 2001 ML320
>>>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>>>> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> OK Don
>>> 2001 ML320
>>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>>> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
>>> _
> 
>>> 
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>

Re: [MBZ] OT - charging R134a systems

[Dave Walton]

Are different oils used with R134a systems? If so, which does Mercedes use?

-Dave Walton

On Jul 29, 2012, at 7:38 PM, OK Don  wrote:

> Interesting! How would one know which R134a charts are right? Any way, from
> this chart, my pressures are low, but the center vent temp is about right.
> However, the ML's center vent temp is much lower. Makes one question ALL
> the charts!
> 
> For vehicles currently running with freon R-134a only
> Outside-low side---High side--Center vent temp
> 100 F -40-50 psi ---200-250 psi 52-60 F
> 110 F -50-60 psi ---250-300 psi 68-74 F
> 
> On Sun, Jul 29, 2012 at 6:11 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
> 
>> Those are the wrong charts.
>> 
>> Either you've got a leak and lost some of the charge, or your compressor
>> is about dead.
>> 
>> 
>> http://m.instructables.com/id/How-to-Repair-Automotive-AC/step1/freon-check/
>> 
>> From this site, looks to me like you should try adding some more
>> refrigerant.
>> --
>> Max Dillon
>> Charleston SC
>> '95 E300
>> '87 300TD
>> 
>> OK Don  wrote:
>> 
>> The chart at http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/HVAC/R134a.htm says 135 psi.
>> ?
>> ? ? ?
>> 
>> The calculator here says 134 -
>> http://www.csgnetwork.com/r134apresstempconv.html
>> 
>> My pressure is higher ? ? ? ?
>> 
>> On Sun, Jul 29, 2012 at 4:03 PM, OK Don  wrote:
>> 
>>> So, add more R134a?
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Sun, Jul 29, 2012 at 4:00 PM, Russ Williams 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>> High side should be in the 240 psi range for that OAT.
>>>> 104(OAT)x2+32
>>>> 
>>>> Russ W.
>>>> 
>>>> On 7/29/2012 15:14, OK Don wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> The van is not blowing "ICE COLD AIR". It's blowing 68F, not cold. It
>> was
>>>>> COLD when it was new in 1997.I hooked up the guages, and read low side
>>>>> of 28 and high of 160 at 1600-2000 RPM. Does it need more refrigerant,
>>>>> have
>>>>> too much, or is something else wrong? Ambient temp is 104F.
>>>>> Also, after some time on the road, 20-30 minutes, when you shut down
>> the
>>>>> car, we hear gurgling or boiling sounds from the evaporator area. What
>> is
>>>>> it trying to tell me?
>>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> _
>> **_
>>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
>>>> To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/<
>> http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/>;
>>>> 
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>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com>;
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> OK Don
>>> 2001 ML320
>>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>>> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> OK Don
>> 2001 ML320
>> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
>> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
>> _
>> 
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> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 2012 Passat TDI DSG
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] "Bleeding" Brakes

[Dave Walton]

Doing all 4 wheels with thin pads will guarantee an overflow in every car I've 
ever had. I suck the MC dry before I begin and suck it again when I'm done. I 
figure it's better to suck out the old stuff rather than pushing it through the 
lines. Better to push fresh clean brake fluid. Recently I've been using the oil 
sucker to change the brake fluid by sucking at each caliper. 

Also check out buying loaded calipers. You get a rebuilt caliper with pads 
ready to go. After 20 years of salted roads in Ohio they were much needed and a 
huge timesaver. 

-Dave Walton

On Jul 23, 2012, at 9:35 PM, "Jerry Herrman"  wrote:

> This submission is a question mainly directed at those individuals who do 
> their own brake work and have had to deal with this issue. When replacing 
> disc brake pads that are worn considerably, it is necessary to push back the 
> wheel cylinder pistons to allow room for the new, thick pads. This normally 
> results in the fluid backing up to the master cylinder (MC) where it could 
> possibly overflow, especially if all four wheels are getting new pads. The 
> only recommendation I have read is to suck out some of the fluid from the MC. 
> I am asking if this is a good idea. If I were to drain off fluid, I would 
> prefer to remove it from a wheel cylinder which is the part of the system 
> most likely to have some contamination, from  the constant movement in that 
> area. (I realize, of course that I am free to do this, and in fact this is 
> what I did this weekend on my 91 Volvo, using a hose and a jar, though I 
> suspect I allowed a minute amount of air into the system).
> If this is a good way to proceed, would it be better to  bleed off a certain 
> amount from the caliper on the wheel you first work on, or would it be better 
> to open the bleeder valve just before pushing the piston back on each 
> individual caliper?
> Another issue I have is that of opening the cap on the MC. Does this allow 
> moisture (say, on a humid day) to enter the MC?
> Also, I worry about fluid going backward in the system - it just seems wrong 
> somehow.
> And what about cars with ABS? What happens to fluid going "backwards" on 
> those cars?
> Whadda you guys do?
> 
> Jerry
> 82 240D
> 91 Volvo 240
> and others
> 
> 
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 7323 (20120723) __
> 
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Coolant

[Dave Walton]

If you mix blue and yellow, you get green.

I've been told not to use the green stuff.

-Dave Walton

On Jul 19, 2012, at 7:45 PM, John Reames  wrote:

> Can the two kinds be mixed?
> 
> --
> John W Reames
> jream...@verizon.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
> 
> On Jul 19, 2012, at 15:29, "Rusty Cullens"  wrote:
> 
>> The price is the same. The Zerex will be the same as the old MB number but
>> not the new one.
>> 
>> -Original Message-
>> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
>> On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin
>> Sent: Thursday, July 19, 2012 3:24 PM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Coolant
>> 
>> Hmm interesting. How much is it? So is the g05 still correct?
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> On Jul 19, 2012, at 1:41 PM, "Rusty Cullens"  wrote:
>> 
>>> FYI, Mercedes has discontinued their Q 1 03 0002 tan coolant. They are now
>>> only selling Q 1 03 0004 which is now blue.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Rusty Cullens
>>> 
>>> buyMBparts, Inc.
>>> 
>>> 6755 Peachtree Industrial Blvd.
>>> 
>>> Suite 260
>>> 
>>> Atlanta, GA 30360
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 800-741-5252
>>> 
>>> 770-452-7320
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
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>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Need a rear-view mirror -- Kleb?

[Dave Walton]

I can't get my head around the idea that new return lines would fix it. If they 
were plugged they would be blown off by the pressure. If they leaked the 
pressure would cause fuel to escape. Air on the return side would be pushed 
through. Did you do anything else?

-Dave Walton

On Jul 17, 2012, at 11:02 AM, Rich Thomas 
 wrote:

> Yesterday I put some new return lines on the boy's SD, which has been sitting 
> here and would not run.  Started it up after cranking a bit and it ran fine.  
> I guess air was getting in the fuel lines somehow and buggering it up.  
> Anyway it runs fine now.  Simple fix, interesting it had that effect.
> 
> I also noticed that the rear-view mirror had exploded itself -- the day/night 
> switch on the bottom had blown out the bottom of the plastic housing, it was 
> all cracked and bits of plastic were broken off.  The switch lever thingie is 
> spring loaded in there and I guess the spring had overcome the ability of the 
> plastic to hold it in there.  Kinda weird.  I pulled it off and inspected it, 
> really no way to repair it that looks like it would hold (Shoegoo and 
> mikanave metal not appropriate) so I guess I need another one.  Kleb, you got 
> one in your vast inventory?  Or I guess I could stop by the knackers at some 
> point and see how bad he wants to screw me on one.
> 
> I also tried to put it back on the ball on the arm, and ended up popping the 
> arm out of the socket up at the top of the windshield, it has a bigass spring 
> in there too, with some kind of little rods on each end, that looks hard to 
> push back in, but I guess it will with some force?
> 
> --R
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Another LED myth?

[Dave Walton]

Correct. White LEDs are usually blue LEDs with a patch of phosphor on top. If 
you look into a clear white LED (while off) you will see it. It converts some 
of the blue light to other wavelengths so the overall color appears white. The 
efficiency of the phosphor is currently the limiting factor and also defines 
the expected lifespan.

-Dave Walton

On Jul 7, 2012, at 10:36 PM, Jim Cathey  wrote:

>> LED's themselves are cheap and last as long as a transistor lasts.
> 
> White LED's are fluorescent, and have the usual half-life
> concerns of that.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: re-keying locks

[Dave Walton]

The process you want to use is called Impressioning: 
(http://www.gregmiller.net/locks/impress.html)

Any file will work, you don't need fancy Swiss ones. When new to the process it 
helps to go over the top of the key blank with a permanent black magic marker 
to help see where the pins hit. You can also try filing at an angle.

Easiest way to find key blanks is to go to a local 2600, hackerspace, or 
locksport meeting. Bring the lock with you. 90% chance someone there will have 
extras on hand. 100% chance they will know someone who does. Worst case you can 
buy them on eBay.

-Dave Walton

On Jul 4, 2012, at 8:23 PM, "Jerry Herrman"  wrote:

> I have a good quality new-in-box Schlage brand deadbolt, but the key is 
> missing. I do not want to discard this item and wonder if there is something 
> I can do (at minimal cost)  to get a working key for it. The lock cylinder 
> can be removed but the cost of a new cylinder is about the same as the cost 
> of a new deadbolt with two keys. When I removed the lock cylinder, I noted 
> that there is a small plate or cover over the top of where the pins are. Am I 
> right in believing that I could remove this cap and replace these pins?  
> Since I have a few Schlage keys from other locks, would I be able to insert 
> "new"pins that would  match up with a specific replacement key?  
> Where would I get an assortment of pins?
> I know that home centers sell kits for re-keying up to six locks of a 
> specific brand, one kit for Schlage and one kit for Kwikset. However, I was 
> told that I need to already have a working key in order to re-key a cylinder. 
> Is this true?
> I am inclined to believe that with minimal equipment, and maybe some good 
> instructions, I could learn to re-key this and other basic lock cylinders. It 
> couldn't be any more difficult then changing oil could it? 
> Now it occurs to me that I could look this up on the Internet. So I will now 
> do that. Meanwhile, having prepared this inquiry, I will send it.
> 
> Jerry
> 82 240D
> 
> 
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
> database 7271 (20120704) __
> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Dave Walton]

What about straight TSP?

-Dave Walton

On Jul 3, 2012, at 7:37 PM, David Bruckmann  
wrote:

> I'd be cautious with automatic dishwasher detergent: it is caustic and 
> difficult to rinse off vs. laundry detergent. You do NOT want ANY detergent 
> residue. IIRC, Marshall's favourite was liquid cold-water Tide HE 
> (low-sudsing for front-loading washing machines).
> 
> Dave Walton wrote:
>> 
>> I've been using automatic dishwasher detergent. It's a good non-sudzing 
>> degreaser. 
> 

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Re: [MBZ] De-oiling before citric acid flush

[Dave Walton]

I've been using automatic dishwasher detergent. It's a good non-sudzing 
degreaser. 

-Dave Walton

On Jul 3, 2012, at 4:40 PM, Craig  wrote:

> So what kind of cleanser/detergent does one use with an aluminum
> radiator? The manual says "neutral" and gives some German brands,
> but that doesn't help too much here in the U.S.
> 
> What kind of stuff should one use?
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Dave Walton]

There is only one torque converter. Turn the crankshaft until the recessed hex 
plug is visible through the bottom window and have at it. As long as you 
remember to remove your socket wrench from the bottom crank bolt before 
starting the vehicle you will be fine. 

"Transmission service" sold by auto shops is bullshit. If you don't drain the 
TC you are only changing half the fluid. 

My 99E300 has no drain on the TC. Until a few years ago the dealer told me it 
was "lifetime" fluid and never needed changing. After transmissions started 
failing they changed policy. I suck ATF from the topside and fill with M1 each 
oil change. 

-Dave Walton


On Jun 29, 2012, at 9:43 AM, Kevin Slater  wrote:

> You CAN drain the torque converter(s?), but it's a total pain in the neck.
> On Jun 28, 2012 10:54 PM, "Dave Walton"  wrote:
> 
>> If the fluid you drain is in really bad shape, consider doing a few
>> changes with cheap ATF on  1-2k mile intervals before you use M1. That's
>> only if you can drain the torque converter too. On that car you can.
>> 
>> -Dave Walton
>> 
>> On Jun 28, 2012, at 10:39 PM, Max Dillon 
>> wrote:
>> 
>>> I'd say change the fluid and filter, use M1 ATF, and let that work for
>> 10k miles.  That cleaned up / improved my wagons transmission behavior
>> immensely.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Alex Chamberlain  wrote:
>>> 
>>>> On Jun 28, 2012 7:02 PM, "Max Dillon" 
>>>> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> Congrats again!
>>>>> --
>>>> 
>>>> Ditto.  I'm a little worried about the transmission needing more than
>>>> just
>>>> vacuum work but other than that it sounds like Kevin made a pretty good
>>>> score.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>> --
>>> Max Dillon
>>> Charleston SC
>>> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] (SPAM?) Re: OT: SSD drive recommendations

[dave walton]

There is a protocol that aligns the block size used by the OS with the
block size used by the drive. This can minimize writes depending on
the application.

Not sure if the wear leveling realignment utilities are generally
released. You can probably find them somewhere. Increasing the number
of blocks allocated to wear leveling spreads the pain so to speak.

-Dave Walton


On Mon, Jul 2, 2012 at 12:53 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> Alex Chamberlain  writes:
>
>> Dave Walton wrote:
>>> If speed is paramount, buy a larger drive, format it to a lower capacity,
>>> and run the manufacturer's utility to add the extra space into the wear
>>> leveling cache. That will speed up writes.
>>
>> Are these utilities something you run in Windows to set firmware
>> parameters on the drive?
>
> I thought the current generation of SSDs had the wear-leveling built in,
> so that filesystems didn't have to worry about it.
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
>
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Re: [MBZ] OT: SSD drive recommendations

[Dave Walton]

Compare read and write speeds. You can spend days digging deep into random vs 
sequential and near vs far if you want. I like OCZ. Their advertised speeds are 
what I get across their product line. Keep in mind that all SSD's have limited 
write cycles and will eventually wear out. Writes progressively slow down as 
you reach it's end of life. 

If speed is paramount, buy a larger drive, format it to a lower capacity, and 
run the manufacturer's utility to add the extra space into the wear leveling 
cache. That will speed up writes.

-Dave Walton


On Jul 1, 2012, at 2:53 PM, Alex Chamberlain  wrote:

> I scored a nice Thinkpad T61 on fleaBay and would like to replace the
> old, slow internal HD with an SSD.  Size isn't as important as speed,
> low power consumption, and reliability.  Looking at Newegg, prices are
> all over the map.  How come a 60 Gb OCZ is $55.99 after rebate
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820227725
> while an Intel model of the same size is twice as much?
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820167092
> 
> Do you get what you pay for with these things?  Am I comparing apples
> to oranges?  I'm familiar with comparing hard drives by seek time and
> cache size, but I don't know what I'm looking for here.  Help!
> 
> Alex
> 
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Re: [MBZ] G-05

[dave walton]

$?

On Sun, Jul 1, 2012 at 2:26 PM, Max Dillon  wrote:
> Can be found at NAPA here in South Carolina.
>
> Russ Williams  wrote:
>
>>Around here NAPA carries it in the 50/50 formula. One Pep Boys (Yuck)
>>has it.
>>None of the O'Reiley's carry it and wont order it. Car Quest will order
>>
>>it for you.
>>
>>Russ W.
>>'84 300D
>>'83 240D w/dead Manny Tranny
>>'03 Stratus
>>On 7/1/2012 12:36, Rick Hawkins Java wrote:
>>> i've always run the G05 and there's still a little in it
>>>
>>> where can you get it locally now? i've always gotten it at pep boys
>>(i
>>> hate that operation, but they always stocked it, but no more)
>>>
>>> can autozone or some such order it in?
>>>
>>>
> --
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD
>
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Re: [MBZ] #22 head

[Dave Walton]

Yes, opposite order on disassembly.


On Jun 30, 2012, at 11:31 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

>> 
>> 
>> Let's say I were to part out my '87 300D.  It has a #22 head in it,
>> professionally installed by a highly regarded shop, with <50K miles on
>> it (I'd have to look up the receipts to know for sure).  Could I get
>> that much for it?  Is there anything tricky about taking the engine
>> apart?(loosening the bolts in the opposite order from how you torque
>> them to keep from warping the head, or something like that?)
>> 
>> Alex
>> 
> _
> 
> What's wrong with the car?
> 
> I am not sure about the Alum head OM60x because I have never had one apart.  
> But you can take out the head bolts in reverse order.  On the iron heads, 
> there are 2 small bolts inside and 2 outside the timing chain area.  Nothing 
> too difficult.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Dave Walton]

If the fluid you drain is in really bad shape, consider doing a few changes 
with cheap ATF on  1-2k mile intervals before you use M1. That's only if you 
can drain the torque converter too. On that car you can. 

-Dave Walton

On Jun 28, 2012, at 10:39 PM, Max Dillon  wrote:

> I'd say change the fluid and filter, use M1 ATF, and let that work for 10k 
> miles.  That cleaned up / improved my wagons transmission behavior immensely.
> 
> 
> Alex Chamberlain  wrote:
> 
>> On Jun 28, 2012 7:02 PM, "Max Dillon" 
>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> Congrats again!
>>> --
>> 
>> Ditto.  I'm a little worried about the transmission needing more than
>> just
>> vacuum work but other than that it sounds like Kevin made a pretty good
>> score.
>> 
>> 
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 1987 300TD Questions

[Dave Walton]

Please keep the list informed with what you find and what you do to the 
vehicle. I've been wanting to get one of those for a while. 

Congrats!

-Dave Walton

On Jun 28, 2012, at 7:03 PM, "Kevin Kraly"  wrote:

> I closed the deal on the 300TD!  , $1300 and some paperwork later, we hit the 
> highway!  The bad news was that the AC condenser and compressor have been 
> removed, so if I want to keep it long term and put it all back, it could be 
> expensive.  It doesn't have a fan shrowd either.
> The engine started right up and sounded pretty good other than a little 
> nailing on one cylinder.  The SLS works very well with a nice, floaty ride. 
> The wheels weren't leaning in at the top, and the rear tires seemed to have 
> nice, even wear...phew!  It seems to track very well, no darting or bump 
> stear from the worn rear links I've heard about so often in W124's.  The 
> interior is in pretty good shape save for the usual dash  and wood cracks. 
> The tranny seems ok other than the intermittent shifting issues.  It will 
> either shift hard or hang in 2nd or 3rd until you lift a bit or completely 
> off the accelerator.  The slide and tilt mechanisms for the sunroof both 
> work...WOW!!!  The passenger's side power seat switch isn't working.  I'm 
> going to try hitting it with some contact cleaner to see if I can get some 
> action.  It's in a tolerable position which is good for now.  The right rear 
> window no worky, no sound coming from it at all when the switch is depressed. 
>  I'll have to give it some antidepressants hahaha (same treatment as power 
> seat switch)!  Rear hatch struts are weak, but do hold it up for the time 
> being.  It does have the 3rd seat, but it will not be used much since the two 
> Labradoodles will be riding back there.  It's not a show winner, but it will 
> be a fun car to have around.
> 
> Kevin in Hillsboro, Oregon
> 1987 300TD 213Kmi, ??? 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Boost Gauge

[Dave Walton]

Failure is not fatal. Encourage the kid to experiment to his hearts content. If 
he kills the engine, get over it. Too many people never achieve greatness 
because they lack confidence or are afraid of failing. I'm involved with the 
local business incubator and we see it all the time. 

I'd prepare him by laying out some ground rules - if you kill it plan on taking 
it apart to find out what happened so we don't kill another one by making the 
same mistakes. 

-Dave Walton


On Jun 22, 2012, at 10:08 PM, Rick Knoble  wrote:

> 
>> Date: Fri, 22 Jun 2012 18:54:06 -0700
>> From: j...@windwireless.net
>> 
>> Tap into the line from the intake manifold to the ALDA.
>> No real point, though.
> 
> I know. I told him that. He has a job now and wants to throw away money, I 
> guess.
> That. and something to impress his friends. Oooh look. A boost gauge.
> 
> He has plenty of other "young adult" ideas too, like bigger injectors, 
> modified FI pump.
> I told him his PISTONS will MELT, but he doesn't seem to listen. 
> 
> Actually, I told him to save his money and start with a better base platform, 
> but kids will be kids.
> 
> Rick
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Removing E320 water pump: Suggestions needed! geha8y8u

[Dave Walton]

Let us know how they work for you. Is the idea that you put them in a variable 
speed drill with a ton of torque and get a running start, or do you do them by 
hand?

-Dave Walton

On Jun 20, 2012, at 11:12 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Wed, 20 Jun 2012 16:25:44 -0500 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Take a slightly larger allen wrench (SAE size?) and beat it in , or 
>> file/grind the end on all flats to make it tapered, then beat it in.
> 
> I was out on the street in front of our house this evening, with my 8"
> bench grinder sitting on the asphalt and powered by a long extension cord
> doing just that.
> 
> 
>> An allen head that is soft enough to round, is also soft enough to be 
>> squared (hexed) up by beating in a bigger size wrench.
> 
> It's also soft enough to repeatedly round out to larger sizes, even with
> the modified allen wrench pounded in.
> 
> Tomorrow, I will try the "Alden INDUSTRIAL SERIES proGrabit(R) Broken
> Bolt & Damaged Screw Extractor #8403P" I bought this afternoon at our
> local DoItBest hardware store. (See http://www.prograbit.com/ )
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Anybody there?

[Dave Walton]

Reminds me of the time my wife overheard me talking about her rear end. 

-Dave Walton

On Jun 18, 2012, at 10:20 AM, "Rusty Cullens"  wrote:

> Are differentials different?
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
> On Behalf Of WILTON
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2012 8:13 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody there?
> 
> The difference is in the differentials.
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Mountain Man" 
> To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
> Sent: Friday, June 15, 2012 8:04 PM
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anybody there?
> 
> 
>> --R wrote:
>>> You know we are talking about calculus differentials, not car 
>>> differentials,
>>> right?
>> 
>> What's the difference?
>> mao
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Eating belts

[Dave Walton]

When the alternator in my 300SDL went bad it would spin freely by hand but 
would occasionally lock up and cause the belt to jump off. I knew because the 
2nd time it sheared the key. It is possible a rebuild could do the same. 
Always carry spare belts, tools, and a can of red bull.

-Dave Walton

On Jun 16, 2012, at 9:26 AM, Max Dillon  wrote:

> My '95 E300 with OM606 engine has decided to eat the serpentine belt. The 
> only recent change is the new (rebuilt) alternator. How do I determine if the 
> alternator is the culprit?
> 
> -Max
> -- 
> Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.
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Re: [MBZ] Linux is where it's at

[Dave Walton]

If you fire up Metasploit you will find many known exploits for NT.

-Dave Walton

On Jun 9, 2012, at 9:38 AM, John Reames  wrote:

> And the NSA has contributed a security framework for it in the past.
> 
> Two points:
>  There is no real security in obscurity.
>  Unix learned lessons years ago about buffer overflows and unchecked 
> parameters in operations involving escalation of privileges.
> 
> On the second point, many shops moved from UNIX to windows NT because of MS 
> marketing pointing out that NT did NOT have those bugs (which plagued UNIXes 
> back then) and because it was "easier to administer".
> 
> The question is whether that is still the case.
> 
> --
> John W Reames
> jream...@verizon.net
> Home: +14106646986
> Mobile: +14437915905
> 
> On Jun 8, 2012, at 23:10, Rick Knoble  wrote:
> 
>> On Jun 8, 2012, at 10:00 PM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:
>> 
>>> After a malware attack on the Air Force's Windows-based drone-control 
>>> system last year, there has been a wholesale move to Linux for security 
>>> reasons.
>> 
>> 
>> Which sucks because now the Chinese, Russians, and anyone else that writes 
>> virii will be coding for Linux now. 
>> Great. 
>> 
>> Rick
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] ODBII Scanner on sale for 19.99

[Dave Walton]

FYI - Amazon has the same item for $20.15

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337550651&sr=8-1

On May 20, 2012, at 10:02 AM, Craig  wrote:

> In case anyone wants one:
> 
> http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA0XA0851767&nm_mc=EMC-MP052012&cm_mmc=EMC-MP052012-_-EMC-052012-Index-_-index-_-9SIA0XA0851767
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Google's robot cars pass driving test

[Dave Walton]

The new Benzes have many shortcomings compared to the vintages I am currently 
driving but I have to admit that they are in every way safer vehicles to drive 
under any and all circumstances. 

The belief that any human can act appropriately in the milliseconds they have 
to actually make a difference during an accident is a young man's delusion. 

Half the time your fate is in the hands of the other vehicle - and its driver. 
To put it another way: the better a driver you are - the more likely it's the 
other guy that will kill you. What safety features do you want his vehicle to 
have?

-Dave Walton

On May 12, 2012, at 10:16 AM, Michael Canfield  wrote:

> One more reason to own an old Benz.  If I stab the brakes to just miss a
> deer running in front of me I surely don't want the car to decide that I
> need to brake more.  Too bad folks just can't take the time to learn to
> drive well instead of depending on the car to make up for their
> shortcomings.
> 
> Mike
> On May 12, 2012 12:40 AM, "Mitch Haley"  wrote:
> 
>> Craig wrote:
>> 
>>> On Fri, 11 May 2012 21:55:07 -0400 Mitch Haley  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Amazingly enough, I still haven't triggered the BAS in my 210 wagon. I
>>>> would have been ticked if the BAS had kicked in and thrown my laptop
>>>> off the back seat.
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> BAS?
>>> 
>> 
>> Brake assist system.
>> The car (1998 or later 210, 2000 or later of just about any MBZ) decides
>> when you're in a panic situation but failing to jam the brakes on full, and
>> jams them on full for you. Hope your computer is in the footwell and nobody
>> is following close behind you.
>> 
>> Mitch.
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] BAS

[Dave Walton]

A friend of mine used to complain that ABS was bullshit because he could 
control the brakes better than any computer could. 

Last I heard he was in jail for rear ending a cop while intoxicated (not the 
cop).

The more a car does on it's own the better off we all are in my opinion. 

-Dave Walton

On May 12, 2012, at 8:55 PM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

>> One more reason to own an old Benz.  If I stab the brakes to just 
>> miss a
>> deer running in front of me I surely don't want the car to decide that I
>> need to brake more.  Too bad folks just can't take the time to learn to
>> drive well instead of depending on the car to make up for their
>> shortcomings...
>> 
> Piffle. Brake assist measures the speed of the brake application and 
> decides if it's a panic stop and if so applies full braking. The instant the 
> driver backs off the brakes revert to normal. MB did some kind of study and 
> determined that few drivers apply the brakes hard enough in a panic situation.
> 
> I am on my second BAS car and have felt it in action plenty of times. There 
> are no down sides to it and my C300 will outbrake any of my former MBs.
> 
> RLE
>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT fedora server

[Dave Walton]

Also consider using the free VMware Converter to create virtual machines for 
each of the running servers and workstations. You can run the free VMware 
player to boot them up to make sure they are working. 

I have had issues in the past converting domain controllers. They stop working 
after the built in certificates expire. Not sure if that's still an issue. If 
so install from scratch then promote to a DC and move all the roles over 
manually.

Dave Walton


On Apr 23, 2012, at 10:45 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Thanks Ed, and all.
> 
> The consensus is to install the winders server or install it as a VM on a 
> lightweight host.Now all I need is time to git'er done.
> 
> The company closed, building was sold.  New owner will be making similar 
> product so some info on the existing computers might be useful, so it is good 
> to keep that info available.   Plan is to use Acronis product to make an 
> image of each existing desktop, Save to dvd and server.  Wipe drives, and do 
> clean installs of XP and software.  On hearty enough machines, install VM 
> with the old machine restored with its image.
> 
> So far all I have managed to do is crack passwords and look at what is there. 
>  Today I did the accounting machine.  Being a manufacturing business, this 
> one computer was basically
> the heat of the companies info.  I found the administrator was ___  Yep, 
> blank password.  Wow!  I am guessing someone else already broke it.
> 
> I have seen lots of things that make it little wonder the business went under.
> 
> 
> 
>> 
>> 
>> Plenty of people have pointed out SAMBA, and SAMBA makes a great drop in
>> replacement for a Windows SMB file server environment. However, I think
>> everyone has conveniently glossed over what you are actually asking for,
>> group policies.
>> 
>> I work for a medium business with multiple locations with an eclectic mix
>> of operating systems. I'm here to tell you that our Windows desktops talk
>> to a Windows server specifically for group policy reasons. Our *NIX
>> servers, regardless of what flavor, don't talk to the desktops directly.
>> 
>> GPO works via an implicit trust relationship between server and
>> workstation. *NIX has a lot of Windows networking replacement parts, but
>> there is no way to implement the implicit trust relationship that is
>> required to perform Active Directory group policy decisions. There *are*
>> ways to force them from *NIX, but they are all very cludgy.
>> 
>> To sum up, if you are installing this for a client that wants and Active
>> Directory trusted domain, install Windows Server and save yourself the
>> headache.
>> 
>> --
>> "Das beste oder nichts." - *Gottlieb Daimler*
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT fedora server

[Dave Walton]

Should cost less. Years ago I worked for a CAD company in Boston. When 
customers came to us saying their computers were stolen or burned or whatever 
we had to remind them to include the software cost as part of their insurance 
claim. The program was licensed to a particular processor and they cut no one 
any slack. Sun had processors with serial numbers readable by the software at 
the time. Same thing today if someone steals your laptop - Windows goes with it 
and is part of the replacement cost. 

-Dave Walton

On Apr 19, 2012, at 1:09 PM, Craig  wrote:

> On Thu, 19 Apr 2012 09:47:10 -0500 Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> 2.  Has anyone heard of insurance costing more if the business is 
>> running open source software?
> 
> Say what?
> 
> 
> Craig
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT fedora server

[Dave Walton]

You are absolutely further ahead if you start with a virtualized platform. Use 
ESXi (free) as the operating system and load 2003 on it in a VM. It's much more 
stable than running windows or Linux as the host. The overhead is minimal. In 
fact it de-duplucates memory blocks so if you have 2 VMs running the same OS, 
it will use less memory than the sum of it's parts. 

You will need to use a different workstation to log in to the virtualized 
machine. Under ESXi the console is a stripped down custom Linux kernel used for 
maintenance and loading drivers. You need to run their custom interface to get 
to the console of the VM for BIOS level access. Once you get things running you 
can use remote desktop or LogMeIn, or whatever. 

-Dave Walton

On Apr 19, 2012, at 10:47 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> Seems like the consensus is wipe and install 2003R2.
> 
> Two more questions:
> 1.  would it be worth considering an install of linux and then run server 
> 2003R2 as a VM?  Or is that just wasting resources?  Dell 2650 xeon 2.8 4 gig 
> memory.
> 2.  Has anyone heard of insurance costing more if the business is running 
> open source software?
> 
> 
>> Not to be a snob, but I wouldn't use Fedora; use CentOS or Debian for a
>> production server.  Fedora is a test distribution, so while it's as stable
>> as, say, VistaSP1, it's not quite a real server IMO.
>> 
>> That said, since the user is used to Windows and is otherwise going to be
>> running Windows, I'd use the 2003 license and never look back.  It is hard
>> to get an IT guy who knows both Windows and Linux well, and even if you get
>> it set up at first they will hate you forever - plus they will have to call
>> you for every little thing, and resent every billable minute.
>> 
>> Now, you could set up 2003 in a VM as the DC (or use an existing external
>> server if there is one?), and then share the file systems from Linux using
>> Samba.  From Windows' perspective the Linux box is just another machine in
>> the domain so you could certainly do redirects.  That setup would be easy
>> enough to maintain with good performance, but honestly it strikes me as
>> over-complicated for such a small user base.
>> 
>> You can set up permissions on Linux shares, but once you start into DC/BDC
>> the Windows servers are really the way to go.
>> 
>> Best,
>> Tim
>> On Apr 16, 2012 11:32 PM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>>>  picked up a dell 2650 with a fresh install of fedora.  Anybody familiar
>>> with this OS for a server?
>>> 
>>> I am wondering if it has something like AD group policies similar to M$
>>> Server 2000/2003/2008.  If so, I can learn to use it.  Otherwise I can put
>>> 2003R2 on it.
>>> 
>>> Its intended use will be data storage for a small business with 4 or 5
>>> computers (XP) and same number of users.  Fortunately none of the computers
>>> I have looked at so far are Wissta.
>>> 
>>> I would like to use the GPOs to redirect the users' "My Documents" to the
>>> server, among other things.  (such as severely restricting what users can
>> > do.)
>> >
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Wood gas. was: abuse of cars 2ejuremy

[Dave Walton]

The companies doing the drilling are multinational. The last guy that tried 
telling them he wanted to keep resources within his country's borders was some 
dude named Fidel Castro. The country was Cuba. Some might say things did not 
work out so well there since he did that.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 18, 2012, at 9:41 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:

> There IS a way.  It is called legislation.  It is supposed to be done by 
> congresscritters.  Congresscritters need to be changed as often as 
> transmission filters.
> 
>> 
>> 
>> I'll vote for the drilling. If there were only some way to keep the 
>> companies from shipping the product out of the country I'd be real happy.
> 
> 
>> Manfred
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

[Dave Walton]

To be honest, I'm willing to put up with GPS tracking. Too many dicks don't 
think about their bad driving until they kill someone and have to act 
remorseful in front of a judge. Too often they don't kill themselves in the 
process.

When my niece and nephews start driving I'm signing them up for it. 

-Dave Walton


On Apr 18, 2012, at 8:42 PM, Rick Knoble  wrote:

> On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:34 PM, "Allan Streib"  wrote:
> 
>> you will have to pay based on miles driven.
> 
> 
> They already floated a trial ballon, saying we will each have a GPS device in 
> our cars to track miles driven. 
> 
> http://techblog.dallasnews.com/archives/2011/05/obama-administration-floats-pl.html
> 
> http://thehill.com/blogs/floor-action/house/159397-obama-floats-plan-to-tax-cars-by-the-mile
> 
> And you thought "Big Brother" was already watching... Just wait. It gets 
> worse. 
> Rick
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Diesel from Nat Gas?

[Dave Walton]

Oil prices are not market driven. Oil is not a free market. 

-Dave Walton


On Apr 18, 2012, at 7:15 PM, Max  wrote:

> OK Don  wrote:
> 
>> Yes, we should be doing this - a surplus of one resource, and a need
>> for
>> another - convert the gas to Diesel.
>> However, the companies that will be doing this (unless the government
>> nationalizes it) will be selling to the highest bidder - likely China,
>> India, Brazel, etc. THERE IS NO US OIL - get over it. It's owned,
>> produced,
>> distributed, and sold by International corporations who have NO
>> national
>> interest.
>> 
>> 
> Yep.  International market sets the price.  Used as CNG we can avoid that, we 
> just need the infrastructure and the cars.
> 
> -- 
> Max Dillon
> Charleston SC
> '95 E300, '87 300TD
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

[Dave Walton]

Then don't buy an electric or a hybrid. Those are cheating the system too.

In fact, buying any high MPG vehicle means you are not paying your fair share 
of road tax.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 18, 2012, at 2:30 PM, Brian Toscano  wrote:

> Not to mention using untaxed fuel is cheating your fellow Americans.
> 
> 
> On Wed, Apr 18, 2012 at 11:18 AM, Dave Walton  wrote:
> 
>> If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel -
>> don't.
>> 
>> You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels
>> unless you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable
>> the purge cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do
>> just that are available for the V-10 Touareg.
>> 
>> As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the
>> exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for
>> any make and models - please let me know.
>> 
>> Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip
>> into the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.
>> 
>> I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an
>> alternate fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle.
>> 
>> Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you
>> can run 5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle
>> after the warranty expires.
>> 
>> -Dave Walton
>> 
>> On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don  wrote:
>> 
>>> If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for
>> the
>>> next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
>>> in the last five years of ownership, and why?
>>> 
>>> Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
>>> current C class?
>>> 
>>> --
>>> OK Don
>>> 2001 ML320
>>> 1992 300D 2.5T
>>> 1990 300D 2.5T
>>> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
>>> ___
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>> 
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] Crystal ball time - Diesel or Gas?

[Dave Walton]

If you were thinking about running alternate fuels in your new diesel - don't. 

You cannot use any concentration of biodiesel in 2007 and later diesels unless 
you hollow out the particulate filter and modify the ECU to disable the purge 
cycle. I'm thinking that's probably a felony, although kits to do just that are 
available for the V-10 Touareg.

As far as I know, all current models are still injecting fuel during the 
exhaust stroke to burn off crud in the filter. If that's not the case - for any 
make and models - please let me know.

Biodiesel tends not to vaporize completely, migrate around the rings, drip into 
the oil pan, and polymerize the engine oil turning it into a solid.

I've been running WVO and biodiesel for over a decade and I am an alternate 
fuel advocate. But you need to use the appropriate vehicle. 

Even if the manufacturer of an exhaust stroke injection system says you can run 
5-10% biofuel, I would not - assuming you want to keep the vehicle after the 
warranty expires. 

-Dave Walton

On Apr 17, 2012, at 10:42 PM, OK Don  wrote:

> If you were thinking about buying a new car, and expect to keep it for the
> next 15-20 years, which fuel do you think would be more readily available
> in the last five years of ownership, and why?
> 
> Would a VW TDI be likely to last that long at 10,000 miles per year? A
> current C class?
> 
> -- 
> OK Don
> 2001 ML320
> 1992 300D 2.5T
> 1990 300D 2.5T
> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] OT - Yard Lighting Quandary

[Dave Walton]

Unless you are willing to endure high upfront costs and marginal reliability 
your best bet is to tap into the existing power source. My mother in law lives 
off the grid with solar panels and a backup generator and lighting is an 
ongoing issue. There is always some breakthrough product available which will 
disappear in a few months once people realize it's just another POS.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 15, 2012, at 2:05 PM, Dan Penoff  wrote:

> I have a backyard that borders a very deep wooded area, and at night it is 
> darker than, well, dark.
> 
> I would like to have some sort of lighting out there that would light at 
> least a portion of the area at night for convenience.  I don't need it for 
> anything specific, nor would I need it on for any length of time.
> 
> Here's the rub:  I have no electrical sources available anywhere near my back 
> wall.  The roof is pitched very little here, and the ceilings go directly up 
> to the roof joists, so there is no attic access where I might have been able 
> to run some wiring.
> 
> My AC condenser is out there, but I'm not keen about tapping in to its power 
> source.
> 
> I looked around at Harbor Freight for something, but the best they have is 
> some lame solar/incandescent floodlight that has horrible reviews. 
> 
> I'm wondering if there might be some sort of solar/LED light(s) out there 
> that would do the trick?
> 
> Dan
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Re: [MBZ] Very Aggravating

[Dave Walton]

When I picked up my S350 from Memphis the seller was perplexed why I was so 
anal about getting a proper temp tag. Things are just different down there. If 
the cops see a car around here (Ohio) without proper tags there is a 100% 
chance you will get pulled over. If the cop that saw you is busy there is a 
100% chance he will call it in so another unit will chase you down. Every cop 
car in the state pulls up your photo when they run your license. If the picture 
matches and you come back with no warrants from the Bureau of Criminal 
Identification the cop has the option not to impound the vehicle and just give 
you a ticket with a mandatory court appearance - but don't count on that 
happening. 

"Rick, if you've got the title why not just get some real tags?"

In Ohio they make you pay them to verify that the vin on the car matches the 
title. Can't transfer the title without the car present. Cant get tags without 
a title. They do not give out temp tags unless the car has already been titled 
in Ohio. 

This is all to make life harder for car thieves. In reality it only makes 
things harder for the average joe.

-Dave Walton

On Apr 7, 2012, at 8:42 AM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> None of the New England states will allow a car without tags. I'm reasonably 
> sure that applies to all of the north east.
> 
> Rick, if you've got the title why not just get some real tags?
> 
> -Curt
> 
> Date: Fri, 6 Apr 2012 19:26:30 -0500
> From: Rick Knoble 
> To: Mercedes Discussion List 
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Very Aggravating
> Message-ID: 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
> 
> On Apr 6, 2012, at 1:57 PM, "Benz Hogs"  wrote:
> 
>> A signed title and BoS isn't good enough anymore?
> 
> Nope. Have to have a tag of some sort. 
> 
> Rick
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT 12v dc to 120v ac heating element?

[Dave Walton]

You need a diesel coolant heater. Burns diesel and runs on 12v and puts out 
something like 14,000 btu which is equivalent to 4000watts/hour. They come up 
cheap on eBay now and then for $200-$300. Espar makes them.

-Dave Walton

On Mar 26, 2012, at 8:38 PM, David & Kristin Gilmore 
 wrote:

>One of you technical guys must know this.
> 
>Say you get your diesel tractor suck in the woods a long way from the 120 
> volt ac outlet that would normally power its 800 watt engine preheater.  
> Night is coming.   It will be very cold in the morning when you return with 
> chains, come-a-longs, etc. to extract the tractor.  Let's say you happen to 
> have a charged 12v car battery that could carried to the scene.  If the + and 
> - poles of the battery were wired into the slots of the 120 v ac plug would 
> the heater work without damaging anything?  Would it warm the engine up in 20 
> or 30 minutes like it does on 120 v ac?
> 
> I tried researching this on the web but all I get is a lot of talk about 
> the right size inverter needed.  Would an inverter be required just to run a 
> resistance element?  Anyone BTDT?  Thanks.
> 
> 
>Dave Gilmore, Cameron WV
> 
> 
>A tremulous descending wail; soft purrs and trills.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] smokin SDL

[dave walton]

I'll second that. Leak is probably in the front of the engine. Oil is
being blown back to where it collects and drips. I've found UV dye and
a UV LED flashlight to help in finding the source.

I've only had one leaking turbo. It was leaking into the intake. If
you remove the crossover tube and stand in the right place on the
drivers side while you rev the engine, you will get a nice oil bath
:-)

Wash, rinse, and repeat 3 times to get dirty M1 out of your hair. My
wife said she could still smell it for a week.

-Dave Walton


On Sun, Mar 4, 2012 at 1:57 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin  wrote:
> Blown head gasket
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 4, 2012, at 10:49 AM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Daughter reports that the SDL is consuming oil rapidly, and oil is dripping 
>> on the passenger side near the rear of the engine.  The engine is also 
>> smoking more than normal.
>>
>> Turbo seals?
>> Turbo drain seals?
>>
>> anything else that could be causing oil drips and oil into the cylinders?
>>
>> Subject is 1987 300SDL
>>
>> Thanks to all!
>>
>>
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Re: [MBZ] Don't let your Tesla battery discharge. "It's dead, Jim."

[Dave Walton]

As long as I know what I have to do, this would not dissuade me from getting a 
Tesla. I'll pay an extra buck or two a day for airport parking that let's me 
plug in. A market driven economy will adapt to the needs of electric car 
drivers. 

-Dave Walton

On Feb 23, 2012, at 10:25 AM, Jim Cathey  wrote:

>> That article still doesn't address the issue of what would happen if the car 
>> is left in storage for a few months without being charged- a very common 
>> scenario. Will it become a brick?
> 
> Just like any battery, if you could completely disconnect
> it during storage it'd be a lot happier.  But these aren't
> Pb batteries, they self-discharge a lot faster.
> 
> -- Jim
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Sealed transmissions?

[Dave Walton]

I forgot to mention - toss some small neodymium magnets in the pan when you 
change the filter. I also put a few along the intake on the filter. Next time 
you pull the pan they will be covered with black goo. Wipe them clean and put 
them back in place. 

When I get a car with a neglected transmission that has a drain plug on the 
torque converter, I will go through a couple fluid changes using Walmart cheap 
transmission fluid until it comes out clean. Then I do a fill with M-1 ATF. 

-Dave Walton

On Feb 21, 2012, at 10:07 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> I think I'm probably buying a 1999 E320 tomorrow.
> 
> The seller says his mechanic just told him it needs a transmission service 
> for $275, which sounds like a filter and fluid change. Seller thinks it's not 
> a good idea to head out on a 1000 mile road trip with it as is.
> 
> What years were afflicted with the sealed transmission, no dipstick, and no 
> recommended service interval?
> 
> Even if the filter is somewhat plugged or the fluid is bad, is there anything 
> about a 15 hour freeway drive that would cause damage, or if it's running OK 
> when I start out it should still be OK when I get home?
> 
> I'd rather deal with the fluid and filter when I get home, especially if the 
> mechanic in question might be hooking it up to a flushing machine right 
> before I leave if I have the seller get it serviced.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Sealed transmissions?

[Dave Walton]

My 99E300 has no dipstick or torque converter drain plug. 

I change the transmission fluid whenever I do an oil change. 

Many shops will charge you for a "flush" and just do a fluid change. 

-Dave Walton

On Feb 21, 2012, at 10:07 PM, Mitch Haley  wrote:

> I think I'm probably buying a 1999 E320 tomorrow.
> 
> The seller says his mechanic just told him it needs a transmission service 
> for $275, which sounds like a filter and fluid change. Seller thinks it's not 
> a good idea to head out on a 1000 mile road trip with it as is.
> 
> What years were afflicted with the sealed transmission, no dipstick, and no 
> recommended service interval?
> 
> Even if the filter is somewhat plugged or the fluid is bad, is there anything 
> about a 15 hour freeway drive that would cause damage, or if it's running OK 
> when I start out it should still be OK when I get home?
> 
> I'd rather deal with the fluid and filter when I get home, especially if the 
> mechanic in question might be hooking it up to a flushing machine right 
> before I leave if I have the seller get it serviced.
> 
> Mitch.
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Stainless Steel Kettles Available from Aaron Equipment

[Dave Walton]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/360429641717

It looks a lot bigger in person. Definitely overkill for making beer, but I 
like overkill :-)

On Feb 9, 2012, at 12:53 PM, Rich Thomas  
wrote:

> A 20gal pot was 700 pounds?  Is it like battleship-grade thickness?
> 
> --R
> 
> On 2/9/12 11:57 AM, dave walton wrote:
>> That was me. Thanks for the heads-up.
>> 
>> Those people are selling stuff for retail. I think I need to shop the
>> auctions to get the pricing I need. Just bought a 20 gallon one off
>> eBay for under $700 delivered. It has over 700 pounds of 304 stainless
>> in it so I basically paid scrap value. And it works :-) Need one more,
>> then we can start brewing all-grain.
>> 
>> -Dave Walton
>> 
>> On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 10:45 PM, Dieselhead<126die...@gmail.com>  wrote:
>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd9574698bc6888c4c9f860>
>>> 
>>> Who was looking for steam kettles?
>>> 
>>>> We are now featuring the following equipment, and thought this may be of
>>>> interest to you. When there is a change in our inventory, we will strive to
>>>> keep you informed.
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Stainless Steel Kettles Available from Aaron Equipment
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746e57364e5ff852cab>
>>>> Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle
>>>> 
>>>> Stock #: 43751039
>>>> Used- Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle, 30 Gallon, Model 30SSA,
>>>> 316 Stainless Steel. 23" diameter x 23" deep. Open top with a 1 piece clamp
>>>> down hinged cover, hemispherical bottom. 304 Stainless steel jacket with a
>>>> Watlow heater. Clamp-on Lightnin air operated agitator, model X1P33A. 3/4"
>>>> Diameter shaft with a 6" diameter 3 blade prop. 2" Center bottom outlet.
>>>> Mounted on 4 stainless steel legs with casters. Includes a control panel.
>>>> Built 2004.
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746dcdeb6ab0c288198>
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746e57364e5ff852cab>
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d8df91041610888c64459739b371b7364a>View
>>>> All Stainless Steel Kettles in Stock!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd9574693fd0241fc3efa5c>
>>>> Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle
>>>> 
>>>> Stock #: 43751042
>>>> Used- Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle, 25 Gallon, Model 25A, 316
>>>> Stainless Steel. 23" diameter x 20" deep. Open top with a 1 piece clamp 
>>>> down
>>>> hinged cover, hemispherical bottom. Stainless steel jacket with a Watlow
>>>> heater. Clamp on Lightnin air operated agitator, model EV5P33A. 3/4"
>>>> diameter shaft with a 3 blade prop. 1-1/2" Center bottom outlet. Mounted on
>>>> 4 stainless steel legs with casters. Includes a control panel. Built 2000.
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746f2e4fdb77f1bbf12>
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd9574693fd0241fc3efa5c>
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d8df91041610888c64459739b371b7364a>View
>>>> All Stainless Steel Kettles in Stock!
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746a9839fb85b31cbe5>
>>>> Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle
>>>> 
>>>> Stock #: 43751044
>>>> Used- Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle, 25 Gallon, Model 25A, 316
>>>> Stainless Steel. 23" diameter x 20" deep. Open top with a 1 piece clamp 
>>>> down
>>>> hinged cover, hemispherical bottom. Stainless steel jacket with a Watlow
>>>> heater. Clamp on Lightnin air operated agitator, model EV5P33A. 3/4"
>>>> Diameter shaft with a 3 bla

Re: [MBZ] Fwd: Stainless Steel Kettles Available from Aaron Equipment

[dave walton]

That was me. Thanks for the heads-up.

Those people are selling stuff for retail. I think I need to shop the
auctions to get the pricing I need. Just bought a 20 gallon one off
eBay for under $700 delivered. It has over 700 pounds of 304 stainless
in it so I basically paid scrap value. And it works :-) Need one more,
then we can start brewing all-grain.

-Dave Walton

On Wed, Feb 8, 2012 at 10:45 PM, Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd9574698bc6888c4c9f860>
>
> Who was looking for steam kettles?
>
>>
>> We are now featuring the following equipment, and thought this may be of
>> interest to you. When there is a change in our inventory, we will strive to
>> keep you informed.
>>
>>
>> Stainless Steel Kettles Available from Aaron Equipment
>>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746e57364e5ff852cab>
>> Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle
>>
>> Stock #: 43751039
>> Used- Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle, 30 Gallon, Model 30SSA,
>> 316 Stainless Steel. 23" diameter x 23" deep. Open top with a 1 piece clamp
>> down hinged cover, hemispherical bottom. 304 Stainless steel jacket with a
>> Watlow heater. Clamp-on Lightnin air operated agitator, model X1P33A. 3/4"
>> Diameter shaft with a 6" diameter 3 blade prop. 2" Center bottom outlet.
>> Mounted on 4 stainless steel legs with casters. Includes a control panel.
>> Built 2004.
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746dcdeb6ab0c288198>
>>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746e57364e5ff852cab>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d8df91041610888c64459739b371b7364a>View
>> All Stainless Steel Kettles in Stock!
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd9574693fd0241fc3efa5c>
>> Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle
>>
>> Stock #: 43751042
>> Used- Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle, 25 Gallon, Model 25A, 316
>> Stainless Steel. 23" diameter x 20" deep. Open top with a 1 piece clamp down
>> hinged cover, hemispherical bottom. Stainless steel jacket with a Watlow
>> heater. Clamp on Lightnin air operated agitator, model EV5P33A. 3/4"
>> diameter shaft with a 3 blade prop. 1-1/2" Center bottom outlet. Mounted on
>> 4 stainless steel legs with casters. Includes a control panel. Built 2000.
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746f2e4fdb77f1bbf12>
>>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd9574693fd0241fc3efa5c>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d8df91041610888c64459739b371b7364a>View
>> All Stainless Steel Kettles in Stock!
>>
>>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746a9839fb85b31cbe5>
>> Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle
>>
>> Stock #: 43751044
>> Used- Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle, 25 Gallon, Model 25A, 316
>> Stainless Steel. 23" diameter x 20" deep. Open top with a 1 piece clamp down
>> hinged cover, hemispherical bottom. Stainless steel jacket with a Watlow
>> heater. Clamp on Lightnin air operated agitator, model EV5P33A. 3/4"
>> Diameter shaft with a 3 blade prop. 1-1/2" Center bottom outlet. Mounted on
>> 4 stainless steel legs with casters. Includes a control panel. Built 2000.
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd9574655a21e8ae343f91f>
>>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746a9839fb85b31cbe5>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d8df91041610888c64459739b371b7364a>View
>> All Stainless Steel Kettles in Stock!
>>
>>
>>
>> <http://link.coremotivesmarketing.com/c/306/9661a368b2672cc8d181986a0d2e90d82e1266c18fd95746ffe86b03c13a6e39>
>> Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle
>>
>> Stock #: 43751027
>> Used- Lee Industries Electrically Heated Kettle, 25 Gallon, Model 25A, 316
>> Stainless Steel. 23

Re: [MBZ] Water Heater

[dave walton]

Keep in mind that a 2x4 is not 2" or 4" and a 50 gallon water heater
DOES NOT hold 50 gallons of water.

-Dave Walton

On Thu, Jan 5, 2012 at 8:29 PM, Jerry Herrman  wrote:
> I'm guessing this topic has been discussed on this forum.
> Seeing a moist area beneath the 20+ year old gas hot water heater, I know 
> that it is time for replacement real soon. Home Depot sells a 50 gallon GE 
> with a 6 year  warranty for $430. Way up from when I last looked at water 
> heaters. Or for $700, a lifetime warranty on the tank. A 40 gallon goes for 
> $338, and for the lifetime tank, $460.
> Home Depot Supply (warehouse) sells the Rheem 50 gallon for $465 and the 40 
> gallon for $369. Having had the 50 gallon heater here at home and in a 
> rental, I see no advantage of a 50 gallon for four person, so I pllan to buy 
> the 40 gallon this time.
>
> But what brand? And is the lifetime warranty worth $200 more? This will go in 
> the garage with easy access, so replacing it would not be a big deal. On the 
> other hand, why buy a heater (or roof) that you know will have to be replaced 
> in your lifetime? Does it matter if the heater is the tall type? Any size 
> will fit where I am putting it. I would even consider a cosmetically damaged 
> one if the price was right.
> I'd be interested in your comments and collective wisdom.
> Oh, and I don't think I'm interested in a tankless. Too new fangled for me.
>
> Jerry
> 82 240D
>
>
> __ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature 
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>
> The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.
>
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Re: [MBZ] A story for engineers in space

[Dave Walton]

Like Ronald Regan, I don't let the facts get in the way of a good story :-)

-Dave Walton

On Feb 6, 2012, at 9:37 PM, Hendrik & Fay  wrote:

> Sounds a bit like an urban myth
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Space_Pen
> 
> Hendrik
> who does not have a SPCCE PEN (ya gotta say it right)
> 
> Dave Walton wrote:
>> Reminds me of an article from NASA about how they spent millions (in today's 
>> dollars) designing a pen that would work reliably in the zero gravity of 
>> space. 
>> The Russians used a pencil.
>> 
>> -Dave Walton
>>  
>>  
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] A story for engineers

[Dave Walton]

Reminds me of an article from NASA about how they spent millions (in today's 
dollars) designing a pen that would work reliably in the zero gravity of space. 

The Russians used a pencil.

-Dave Walton

On Jan 30, 2012, at 6:15 AM, "Gerry Archer"  wrote:

> 
> 
> A Short Story for Engineers--- 
>> A toothpaste factory  had a problem: they sometimes shipped empty
>> boxes, without the tube inside.   This was due to the way the
>> production line was set up, and people with  experience in designing
>> production lines will tell you how difficult it is to  have everything
>> happen with timings so precise that every single unit coming out  of it
>> is perfect 100% of the time.  Small variations in the environment
>> (which  can't be controlled in a cost-effective fashion) mean you must
>> have quality  assurance checks smartly distributed across the line so
>> that customers all the  way down to the supermarket don't get pissed
>> off and buy another product  instead. Understanding how  important that was, 
>> the CEO of the toothpaste
>> factory got the top people in the  company together and they decided to
>> start a new project, in which they would  hire an external engineering
>> company to solve their empty boxes problem, as  their engineering
>> department was already too stretched to take on any extra  effort.   The 
>> project followed  the usual process: budget and project sponsor
>> allocated, RFP, third-parties  selected, and six months (and $8
>> million) later they had a fantastic solution -  on time, on budget,
>> high quality and everyone in the project had a great time.   They
>> solved the problem by using high-tech precision scales that would sound
>> a  bell and flash lights whenever a toothpaste box would weigh less
>> than it  should.  The line would stop, and someone had to walk over and
>> yank the  defective box out of it, pressing another button when done to
>> re-start the  line. A while later, the  CEO decides to have a look at 
>> the ROI of the
>> project: amazing results!  No empty  boxes ever shipped out of the
>> factory after the scales were put in place.  Very  few customer
>> complaints, and they were gaining market share.  "That's some money
>> well spent!" - he says, before looking closely at the other statistics
>> in the  report. It turns out, the  number of defects picked up by the 
>> scales was 0
>> after three weeks of production  use.  It should've been picking up at
>> least a dozen a day, so maybe there was  something wrong with the
>> report.  He filed a bug against it, and after some  investigation, the
>> engineers come back saying the report was actually correct.   The
>> scales really weren't picking up any defects, because all boxes that
>> got to  that point in the conveyor belt were good. Puzzled, the CEO  
>> travels down to the factory, and walks up to the part
>> of the line where the  precision scales were installed.A few feet before 
>> the  scale, there was a $20 desk fan, blowing the
>> empty boxes out of the belt and  into a bin.   "Oh, that," says one  of the 
>> workers   - "one of the guys  put it there
>> 'cause he was tired of walking over ... " every time the bell  rang". 
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] OT: anyone know about commercial cooking equipment?

[dave walton]

I'm on the lookout for some gas steam kettles in the 20-30 gallon
range for our local brewclub. Some of us want to do full keg all-grain
batches. Plus our hackerspace is paying rent in beer, and the 5 gallon
batches are getting tedious.  If you see any please let me know. I've
seen them now and then in local auctions and they usually go for scrap
value of the stainless - about $1/pound.

Thanks

-Dave Walton


On Sat, Feb 4, 2012 at 11:25 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:
> University is surplusing a 48" Viking commercial range.  Something
> that's been on my "someday" list is to get a 48" range in the kitchen.
> The label on the back specifies natural gas, 5" W.C., anyone know if
> that's in the ballpark of a residential gas supply?
>
> Allan
> --
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
>
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Re: [MBZ] Nailing

[Dave Walton]

If you can still hear it when you go inside to pay for the fuel and the door 
shuts behind you, it's nailing. 

-Dave Walton

On Feb 3, 2012, at 7:19 PM, Rick Knoble  wrote:

> 
> 
> What sound is "nailing"? What differentiates it from the normal klatta klatta 
> of an MB diesel?
> Rick
> 
>   
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Re: [MBZ] Apple$$$

[Dave Walton]

Why?, yes, and yes. You left out scsi, mfm, ide, pxe, and fibre channel.

-Dave Walton

On Feb 3, 2012, at 12:19 PM, Brian Toscano  wrote:

> So you can boot from Firewire, USB, and eSATA these days? :-)
> 
> Its been years since I've had my own Windows based system to play with.
> 
> 
> 
> On Fri, Feb 3, 2012 at 10:15 AM, Benz Hogs  wrote:
> 
>> Yes, and did that to check the o/s before doing the >1min HD swap. Booting
>> from an external drive is BIOS dependent, not o/s dependent.
>> 
>> 
>> Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
>> '87 300SDL (322,xxx mi)
>> '91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)
>> 
>> On 2/3/2012 11:13 AM, Brian Toscano wrote:
>> 
>>> Can you boot off an external drive?
>>> 
>>> On Fri, Feb 3, 2012 at 9:48 AM, Benz Hogs
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> I upgraded my wife's Vista laptop's HD from 160GB to 320GB without
>>>> reinstall.  Works like a champ and still has Dell's original o/s reload
>>>> partition.  It can be easily done using Clonezilla.
>>>> 
>>>> Luther   KB5QHUForest Park, IL
>>>> '87 300SDL (322,xxx mi)
>>>> '91 Dodge Ram 150 (290,xxx mi)
>>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] reinstall

[Dave Walton]

Correct. 

If Apple figures out how to implement the enterprise features that Microsoft 
offers and customers expect, there are many who have endured the pain of 
windows that would gladly switch. 

-Dave Walton

On Feb 2, 2012, at 6:11 PM, Fmiser  wrote:

>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> In the windows world you can boot into the recovery console
>>> and run a chkdsk, then do a repair installation if need be.
>>> If you are lucky that will preserve installed programs and
>>> data. The Repair wipes out all service packs and hotfixes.
>>> It's not a quick solution, does not always work, and if it
>>> does work a lot of garbage gets carried over from the old
>>> install. That's about when people start thinking seriously
>>> about getting a Mac. 
> 
>> Dan Penoff wrote:
> 
>> I would disagree.
>> 
>> (On a Mac) you can easily boot into single user mode or from
>> another volume and get into the machine to poke around under
>> the hood, if necessary.
> 
> ???
> 
> I think that means you _agree_.  I think Dave is saying on MS
> Win the repair dance is a pain and doesn't always work.  Thus
> driving people to consider buying a Mac instead.
> 
> Right Dave?
> 
> -- Philip
> 
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Re: [MBZ] reinstall

[Dave Walton]

When you do a complete reinstall, install onto a new HD. You won't know which 
program disks and activation codes you are missing until you need them. At 
least then you can mount the old HD as the second disk and copy stuff over and 
try to get things working again if it's worth the effort. 

In the windows world you can boot into the recovery console and run a chkdsk, 
then do a repair installation if need be. If you are lucky that will preserve 
installed programs and data. The Repair wipes out all service packs and 
hotfixes. It's not a quick solution, does not always work, and if it does work 
a lot of garbage gets carried over from the old install. That's about when 
people start thinking seriously about getting a Mac. 

-Dave Walton

On Feb 2, 2012, at 12:05 AM, relng...@aol.com wrote:

>> ...I also wonder how many people advise re-installing the OS because its 
>> faster than trying to figure out what's really wrong...
>> 
> I think that is the universal first-answer from any telephone or online 
> tech support anywhere. Reinstall it and call us back...
> 
> Outraged denials will now be heard.
> 
> RLE
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Cigarette Smoke

[Dave Walton]

When vacuuming floor mats, you will get more particulates out of them if you 
turn over the upright vacuum and hold the mats upside down against the rotating 
beaters. Gravity helps pull out the crud. It is amazing how much more dirt you 
can get from "clean" carpeting this way. 

Wear gloves. 

-Dave Walton

On Jan 19, 2012, at 10:07 AM, G Mann  wrote:

> I suggest you sprinkle the baking soda over the entire surface of the
> carpets.. make them white with baking soda... It is a harmless material as
> far as chemical reaction with the carpet and will vacuum up cleanly. If you
> cover a greater surface the baking soda will do what it does best even
> better with greater surface area to absorb the smell.
> 
> The carpets are a major fabric surface that has soaked up the smoke residue
> for the life of the smokers residence, so for greater success, attack that
> surface. It's cheap and it absorbs odor like crazy. You may want to do
> several applications with a vacuum between each.
> 
> Coffee grounds... never had luck with them, but... who doesn't like the
> smell of fresh brewed coffee?
> 
> On Thu, Jan 19, 2012 at 7:51 AM, Rusty Cullens  wrote:
> 
>> Thanks everyone from some great suggestions. I have decided to try most
>> all of them. I have rented an ozone generator for 2 days for $50.00. Before
>> I use it I will clean the entire interior thoroughly and install the 4 new
>> cabin filters. After I finish, I plan on alternating coffee and baking soda
>> in containers at night and putting sheets of fabric softener under the
>> seats. It may be overkill but my wife gets migraines and I just plain can't
>> stand the smell. Other than that and the fact that the sunroof has to be
>> repaired I am generally happy with the car. It is a cool color (Black Opal)
>> which looks black from afar but blue/green up close or in the sun. The
>> drivers seat has a 4" tear from wear, but I have already gotten my
>> Leatherique kit in and that will be repaired this weekend as well. It is my
>> first W210 to own and I am looking forward to seeing how it does.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Rusty Cullens
>> BuyMBparts, Inc.
>> www.buyMBparts.biz
>> www.buyEUROparts.biz
>> www.buyASIANparts.biz
>> Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
>> Fax/ 770-454-9745
>> ICQ 427542441
>> AIM BuyMBparts
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Re: [MBZ] Cigarette Smoke

[Dave Walton]

You need ozone. Anything else just masks the smell.

-Dave Walton

On Jan 18, 2012, at 2:38 PM, "Rusty Cullens"  wrote:

> I got a 1997 E320 for the wife to replace the C280 but the owner was a 
> smoker. Febreze last about an hour. How do I get rid of the smell short of 
> replacing all the carpet, leather and headliner?
> 
> 
> Rusty Cullens
> BuyMBparts, Inc.
> www.buyMBparts.biz
> www.buyEUROparts.biz
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Re: [MBZ] Shipping A Vehicle vs. Fly And Drive

[Dave Walton]

Nothing good will come from hanging around after the sale is completed. Drive 
it to an auto parts store and work on it in the parking lot. If you buy bought 
it from Larry Darryl and Darryl drive fast. 

-Dave Walton


On Jan 16, 2012, at 8:17 PM, Michael Canfield  wrote:

> Why drive it out of sight?  Once it's signed over to you and paid for do as
> you wish with it.
> 
> Mike
> On Jan 16, 2012 8:11 PM, "Dieselhead" <126die...@gmail.com> wrote:
> 
>> Somebody in the Greater Washington section of the MBCA should have a
>> connection up there.  If you can't find an MB DIesel enthusiast up there,
>> you sure ly can find a good MB Diesel mechanic who could be paid to drive
>> over and look at it,  or have the PO drive it to the shop and leave it
>> there for you.
>> 
>> A phone call to the PO may yield some info.  Does it miss all the time?
>> Does it get better as the engine warms?  Does it smooth out as the RPM
>> goes up?
>> 
>> If either of the latter 2 questions are YES, then you have a better chance
>> of driving it home without problem.  As an alternative to paying someone to
>> look for it, you could get a rebuilt injector assembly from Q and take it
>> with you.  Pay the PO, drive it a out of sight, and crack lines to see
>> which cylinder is the culprit, then install the rebuilt  injector, and see
>> if it is ok after that.
>> 
>> Okay, I accidentally bought a car off of eBay.
>>> Don't ask how...
>>> I got it VERY cheap and it is a rust free diesel w124 in SWMBO's favorite
>>> color. (SWMBO is tired of the tired w123) I can fix mechanical
>>> things, Rust cancer is another story. Now, I have to get this car home.
>>> 
>>> The cheapest route would be fly out to Baltimore, MD. and drive it home.
>>> One problem though,
>>> the car has a miss. Doesn't burn motor oil, it just doesn't hit on all
>>> five. So...
>>> Do I fly out and fix what I assume to be wrong (injector or glow plug)
>>> and hope for the best?
>>> Do I find a local to the car indy to t/s first?
>>> Or do I contract a carrier to haul it home?
>>> 
>>> Decisions, decisions.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Rick
>>> Who is beginning to have WAY too many vehicles...
>>>__**
>>> _
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>>> For new and used parts go to www.okiebenz.com
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>>> 
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>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __**_
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Re: [MBZ] 1995 C280

[Dave Walton]

Have only had it a few months - too soon to tell. 

The accumulators needed replaced and there is an intermittent issue where the 
trunk wants to stick out the lifting handle when I start the car. It does not 
pop open on its own anymore after I took apart and reassembled the latch 
assembly so I can live with it until warmer weather. 

It's our second W140. The longer body makes a noticeable difference in rear leg 
room. There is no better vehicle for long road trips, but I still prefer the 
body style of our 240d. 

-Dave Walton

On Jan 5, 2012, at 2:50 PM, Alex Chamberlain  wrote:

> On Jan 5, 2012 11:26 AM, "Dave Walton"  wrote:
>> 
>> When it comes to accidents, bigger and heavier is better. I put my wife
> in a 1998 S500.
> 
> How has the S500 been reliability-wise?
> 
> Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 1995 C280

[Dave Walton]

When it comes to accidents, bigger and heavier is better. I put my wife in a 
1998 S500. Might be more in the $7000 range, however. Stability control (ESP) 
was an option starting that year and is desirable. 

Hope she is okay. 

-Dave Walton

On Jan 5, 2012, at 2:03 PM, "Rusty Cullens"  wrote:

> my wife's 1995 C280 was totaled on the Monday after Christmas. liberty mutual 
> gave me $4818.76. What do I want to buy?
> 
> 
> Rusty Cullens
> BuyMBparts, Inc.
> www.buyMBparts.biz
> www.buyEUROparts.biz
> www.buyASIANparts.biz
> Tel/ 1-800-741-5252
> Fax/ 770-454-9745
> ICQ 427542441
> AIM BuyMBparts
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Re: [MBZ] OT: laying tile

[Dave Walton]

I use durock over plywood regardless of where it goes. You could leave out the 
pink water barrier. Premixed mortar sucks. Wet the tile before setting it and 
it bonds better. We bought a Harbor Freight tile saw 10 years ago, loan it out 
all the time, and it is still going strong with at least several hundred hours 
on it. 

-Dave Walton

On Dec 13, 2011, at 7:40 PM, Curt Raymond  wrote:

> Anybody ever lay any tile? 
> 
> I want to do a new backsplash in my kitchen, its currently nasty fake wood 
> paneling and I want to do alternating white and blue tiles. The big question 
> is can I tile right over the fake wood paneling or do I have to pull it and 
> put some kind of backer board? 
> 
> When I did my tub surround last year I put up concrete backer board and used 
> thinset mortar so its totally moisture resistant. Since this won't be in 
> continuous contact with water like the shower I'm pretty confident any minor 
> moisture penetration won't be a big problem... Anything I'm missing?
> 
> Oh and I need to move two electric boxes out from the wall, any ideas on 
> that? Pull it and put some washers behind?
> 
> -Curt
> 
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Re: [MBZ] (no subject)

[Dave Walton]

That's all I got. It's possible that they are impersonating you and sending 
emails on your behalf to everyone in your contact list. If that's the case, 
it's up to the security settings on the receiving email servers to filter them 
out. 

Wait a few days for the antivirus people to catch up and run the scans again in 
case you got hit with an 0-Day. 

-Dave Walton

On Dec 2, 2011, at 6:31 PM, "Douglas"  wrote:

> Dave I did the safe boot d/l'd malwarebytes. I did the full scan and
> Zero items found.
> Any other ideas?
> 
> Douglas
> 
> -Original Message- From: Dave Walton
> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 10:18 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] (no subject)
> 
> Boot into safe mode with networking, download the free version of 
> malwarebytes, update it and run a full san.
> 
> DO NOT download malwarebytes before booting into safe mode.
> 
> -Dave Walton
> 
> On Dec 2, 2011, at 12:54 PM, "Douglas"  wrote:
> 
>> Rick I appreciate your help I have run both MS Essentials and AVG and both 
>> did not find anything.
>> Yesterday MS Essentials found and removed 2 items.
>> 
>> Douglas
>> 
>> -Original Message- From: Rick Knoble
>> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 4:13 AM
>> To: Mercedes Discussion List
>> Subject: Re: [MBZ] (no subject)
>> 
>> On Dec 2, 2011, at 5:27 AM, jgi...@comcast.net wrote:
>> 
>>> ..U will like it! I promise! It�s the best site ever!
>> 
>> 
>> Your bug is back. It is probably a java script thing or someone stole your 
>> email password. I had one like that a while back. I will post what I did to 
>> fix it later this AM.
>> Rick
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
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>> 
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> 
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> 
> 
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.1873 / Virus Database: 2102/4652 - Release Date: 12/02/11 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] (no subject)

[Dave Walton]

Boot into safe mode with networking, download the free version of malwarebytes, 
update it and run a full san. 

DO NOT download malwarebytes before booting into safe mode. 

-Dave Walton

On Dec 2, 2011, at 12:54 PM, "Douglas"  wrote:

> Rick I appreciate your help I have run both MS Essentials and AVG and both 
> did not find anything.
> Yesterday MS Essentials found and removed 2 items.
> 
> Douglas
> 
> -Original Message- From: Rick Knoble
> Sent: Friday, December 02, 2011 4:13 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] (no subject)
> 
> On Dec 2, 2011, at 5:27 AM, jgi...@comcast.net wrote:
> 
>> ..U will like it! I promise! It�s the best site ever!
> 
> 
> Your bug is back. It is probably a java script thing or someone stole your 
> email password. I had one like that a while back. I will post what I did to 
> fix it later this AM.
> Rick
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Corvair and Globule warming

[Dave Walton]

Many people drive on tires that are over 10 years old and have never had an 
incident. Some have also died doing the same thing.

Do you feel lucky?

One reason I put my loved ones in a Mercedes is to stack the odds in their 
favor. I'm not going to undo that by trying to save $100 on tires. 

Firestone used to have a production facility here in Cleveland a while back. I 
knew the plant manager. He HAD to use Firestone tires on his car. He would only 
put Michelin's on his wife's car. I admired his thinking. 

-Dave Walton

On Dec 2, 2011, at 8:13 AM, roger...@comcast.net wrote:

> Guys, 
> I can only tell you my experience with TWO 1964 Corvairs. They ran great and 
> they did corner "like they were on rails". I once took an Olds F85 small V8 
> off the line at a redlight. I was a 4 spd manual and he was an automatic. I 
> did not experience any over steer or traction problems. Again, they would 
> leak too much oil. Mine ran great because I had a Chevy mechanic who told me 
> how much I could tweak the timing and points and not hurt anything. Really 
> made the cars run with a lot more power and better mileage as well. And yes I 
> saw several wrecked in junk yards when I was seeking parts (during college so 
> I did most of my own repairs), but then I saw a lot of equally smashed VW 
> bugs and larger cars and Ralph never attacked any of them. I always thought 
> Ralph had a personal vendetta against the Corvair and GM. And yes Fred, that 
> 140hp turbo Monza was something else! Just dreaming of the good ole days :-)) 
> Best Wishes, 
> 
> Roger Hale 
> Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
> Monroe, Ga. 
> 770-267-0850 
> www.dinnerwareclassics.com (new) 
> www.rubylane.com/shops/sna (antique) 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Tire Age

[Dave Walton]

Like the Corvair, those tires are unsafe at any speed.

-Dave Walton

On Nov 30, 2011, at 5:35 PM, roger...@comcast.net wrote:

> Fellow listers, 
> I come to you with a safety question to seek your collective advice. I need a 
> set of tires for my 80 300SD. It only gets driven 5-6K miles per year now. I 
> have the opportunity to buy a set of Michelin Energy MXV4 tires. The tires 
> have about 95% tread remaining and look like new. However, their production 
> date is 0802 which puts them in the 8th week of 2002. Now they show no signs 
> of tire rot and have been stored inside since removed from an SL. 
> What do you guys think? Buy or pass due to age? 
> Thanks and best wishes, 
> 
> Roger Hale 
> Dinnerware Classics, Inc. 
> Monroe, Ga. 
> 770-267-0850 
> www.dinnerwareclassics.com (new) 
> www.rubylane.com/shops/sna (antique) 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] I wish 60x vehicles had a primer pump

[Dave Walton]

This looks similar to what came with the Elsbett conversion kit. Simple, 
effective and < $8. I ordered one in and will let you know how it works later 
in the week:

http://www.amazon.com/Attwood-Primer-Bulb-3-8-Inch/dp/B003DJV58Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1322620685&sr=8-2

-Dave Walton

On Nov 29, 2011, at 9:28 PM, "Kaleb C. Striplin"  wrote:

> I think the lift pump is not lifting, as much as I have cranked on it u 
> should have something but Pre filter is still
> Dry. Can running out of fuel ruin the lift pump? Can slap another in it nuts 
> it's not what I want to jack with at the moment
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
> On Nov 29, 2011, at 8:04 PM, OK Don  wrote:
> 
>> Crack one injector line before cranking - it seems to fill the pump/lines a
>> lot faster that way.
>> 
>> On Tue, Nov 29, 2011 at 7:27 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
>> 
>>> The title says it all. It's a pain in the ass to start one when a dumb
>>> teen runs it out of fuel
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> OK Don
>> 2001 ML320
>> 1992 300D 2.5T
>> 1990 300D 2.5T
>> 1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] What's a W210 SmartKey cost?

[Dave Walton]

There is a sequence you perform to activate the key. You can do it yourself on 
W210's and W140's. Turn the wheel all the way to the left, turn on the right 
blinker and rub your tummy 3 times counterclockwise. Then press the lock button 
on the key.  Or something like that. 
I don't recall what the keys cost - $100? $150? Somewhere around there, but 
it's been a couple years.  Rusty can get them last I checked. 

-Dave Walton 

On Nov 28, 2011, at 10:37 PM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> Dieselhead <126die...@gmail.com> writes:
> 
>> Ask him.  I think he can, with a fax of your registration and D/L
> 
> If it's anything like the newer Ford keys, they need to have the vehicle
> there and actually "activate" that specific key for the vehicle.  Or so
> the Ford dealer claimed when I wanted to get a new key for our Focus.
> 
> Allan
> -- 
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Trans upgrades

[Dave Walton]

I place several neodymium magnets in the pan and by the filter intake to 
capture any tiny steel bits floating around. They will be coated with black goo 
next time you change the filter. Put a few on the power steering filter while 
you are at it. They stay in place just fine.

-Dave Walton

On Nov 23, 2011, at 7:03 PM, Michael Canfield  wrote:

> I will be changing the transmission fluid and filter in my 83 300d soon. I
> have read about upgraded parts that I should change while in there.  I
> believe one is a K1 spring kit, what else is there I should do while in
> there to make it last?  It has under 150k miles and is just starting to
> flare a bit on the 2 to 3 shift.
> 
> Thanks All, Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Kid's ticket

[Dave Walton]

Cops here used to get 4hrs paid time for making a 15 minute court appearance. 
Once they started paying them only for the time they spent in court they 
stopped showing up unless they were really pissed at you. Now we have traffic 
cams everywhere. It's a given that you can pay about any lawyer a couple 
hundred bucks and have the charge reduced to something that won't affect your 
insurance rates and avoid showing up in court at all.

-Dave Walton

On Nov 19, 2011, at 11:31 AM, Allan Streib  wrote:

> Last year I went to court to contest a speeding ticket I got.  The cop
> didn't appear so it was dismissed.  I don't know how likely that it, but
> there's a chance.  
> 
> Allan
> 
> Mitch Haley  writes:
> 
>> Brian Toscano wrote:
>> 
>>> Nice idea about the dash cam.  I wish I had one.  Would have made an
>>> excellent youtube and court video and probably gotten a cop fired or
>>> demoted.
>> 
>> The cops probably have one that has to be produced in the discovery
>> phase if requested. Fairly good chance it shows the driving behavior
>> that got the cop's attention, less of a chance it reveals the
>> conversation between Hunter and the cop. If a cop is on tape saying 'I
>> pulled you over for accelerating too hard up a freeway ramp in a worn
>> out 70hp, 3000lb car', just ask the persecuting attorney to dismiss
>> before trial.
>> 
>> Mitch.
>> 
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> 
> -- 
> 1983 300D
> 1979 300SD
> 
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Re: [MBZ] [db] Diesel Fuel Differences?

[Dave Walton]

The ONLY difference between one brand of gas or diesel and another is the 
additive package - which includes any ethanol and/or biodiesel. That is also 
what colors the fuel. The feedstocks have been standardized. They dispense the 
appropriate additive at the Terminal depending on which retail station is 
buying the fuel (BP, Marathon, whatever). Each company maintains their own 
supply of additive at each terminal under lock and key. 

BP started producing ULSD fuel over a year before it was mandatory so they 
could comply with the regs through dilution and avoid cleaning all the 
underground tanks. 

If you thin diesel with gasoline or kerosene you are screwing up the additive 
mix and putting your injection pump at risk. A Bosch-style inline pump could 
care less. The 25,000+psi system in a CDI will care greatly and you will pay 
dearly.

-Dave Walton

On Nov 7, 2011, at 6:46 PM, Jim Hoffman  wrote:

> Sure, but I would assume that Greg was referring to same time of year,
> etc. so you would be able to ignore blending discrepancies.
> 
> So, how do we find cetane ratings?  And just what does cause the
> differences in color between some distributors??  Poorer quality?
> I see no notices on pumps around here about blending with biodiesel.
> 
> Jim
> 
> 
> --- On Mon, 11/7/11, john  wrote:
> 
>> From: john 
>> Subject: Re: [db] Diesel Fuel Differences?
>> To: "Greg Fiorentino" 
>> Cc: diesel-b...@digest.net, "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
>> 
>> Date: Monday, November 7, 2011, 5:23 PM
>> there are a variety of factors.
>> 
>> 1) cetane rating
>> 2) mix of bioDiesel
>> 3) is it #1 or #2 or blended? (depends on region, here in
>> the PNW all we see is #2)
>> 
>> #1 used in the winter is a weaker mix, less cetane but
>> lower pour point to avoid gelling.
>> #2 will have more power but gels in the 34 degree
>> neighborhood.
>> 
>> (hint to those travelling from warm to cold climates... if
>> you expect cold weather, that is
>> in the low 30's to teens even, add ONE GALLON of regular
>> unleaded to about 20 gallons of Diesel,
>> this will prevent gelling - you can also use a mix of
>> Kerosene and Diesel, say 50-50 or so, YMMV,
>> but Kerosene is really spendy stuff...  You can also
>> use an additive to prevent gelling, but
>> I have never had problems putting a gallon of that really
>> bad smelling stuff called gasoline... ;)
>> 
>> 
>> unlike octane ratings I know of no requirement to post the
>> provided Cetane rating...
>> 
>> adding gasoline to Diesel results in thinning, but also a
>> more rapid burn, so be careful not
>> to add too much or you'll melt pistons...  don't lug
>> it when using gas as a thinner... 
>> 
>> 
>> there is often a note on the brand names that say "up to
>> 5%" bioDiesel".
>> 
>> bioDiesel lowers mileage and energy... typically... unless
>> it's made from the really good stuff...
>> which isn't usually the case.
>> 
>> the Ultra low sulfur fuel can be a concern for lubricity...
>> I think that's why they are mixing
>> in some bioDiesel, from what I've read BioDiesel has
>> greater lubricity than regular Diesel.
>> 
>> California got their chops busted when they pulled sulfur
>> from the fuel and wiped out a bunch
>> of big rig's pumps...
>> 
>> 
>> selfish plug:  amsoil sells some fine fuel additives
>> and conditioners, one of the products
>> is called cetane boost, the link in my sig file will get
>> you to the info, sales pitch and an opportunity
>> to purchase and provide a tired old webmaster some lunch
>> money... ;)
>> 
>> -
>> 
>>
>> -o|o-  fahrvergnugen y'all
>>   Snohomish, Washington - where Jeeps and VWs don't
>> rust, they mold
>> http://AMSOIL.com/redirect.cgi?zo=283461   
>> TRSTGZS
>>   http://JohnMeister.com  HTTP://WAGONEERS.COM  http://fotomeister.us
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> On Mon, 7 Nov 2011, Greg Fiorentino wrote:
>> 
>> # One of my mechanics swears that some diesel brands yield
>> significantly
>> # better economy than others.  My wife subscribes to
>> this theory also.  Based
>> # on recent unscientific and statistically insignificant
>> tests, I am beginning
>> # to think this may be so.
>> # 
>> #  
>> # 
>> # Do any of you experienced die

Re: [MBZ] OT Re: Free meal

[Dave Walton]

I learned the hard way that you have to ask for a "glass of water" instead of 
"water" around here or else they will bring you a bottle of water and a glass 
and put it on your bill.

If someone had told me 30 years ago you could sell bottled water for people to 
drink I'd have said they were crazy - no one would buy it. I understand buying 
distilled water, but I still find it amazing that people are buying tap water 
in a plastic bottle. Better than drinking bubbly sugar water I suppose...

-Dave Walton

On Nov 12, 2011, at 9:25 AM, "WILTON"  wrote:

> I tipped the server appropriately, as usual, based on the normal price/value 
> of the full meal.  I said in my original comments to Applebee's that I 
> probably missed some fine print somewhere.  My concern was for the 
> surreptitious way in which I was charged $2.34 for a glass of tea that I 
> would not have purchased had I known that it was going to cost $2.34.  Never 
> saw a menu or a heard any comment from a waitress to that effect; merely, 
> "What'll you have to drink?"
> 
> Wilton
> 
> - Original Message - From: "ernest breakfield" 
> 
> To: 
> Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 11:52 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] OT Re: Free meal
> 
> 
>> seriously; i've never seen a definition of "Meal" that meant anything other 
>> than food. i would never have assumed that "Meal" meant "food and drink", 
>> unless that's what it explicitly said.
>>i wouldn't be surprised if you read the offer closely and it said 
>> something like "drinks not included" somewhere; that's typical, even though 
>> i don't think it should be necessary.
>> 
>>sorry, but; you paid under $3 for food and a drink, and you're 
>> complaining? i hope you at least tipped the server on what the meal was 
>> worth,.. or are you going to expect that the service was "free", too?
>> 
>> 
>> cheers!
>> e
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
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>> 
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>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com 
> 
> 
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> 
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Re: [MBZ] Ebay fees

[Dave Walton]

When someone pays for your item with PayPal, do they also deduct PayPal fees, 
or is that included in the 9%?

-Dave Walton


On Nov 8, 2011, at 8:05 PM, drcscru...@aol.com wrote:

> you are correct, the charge for listing the item is free BUT they charge 
> basicly 10% of the actual sales price when you are paid, they deduct it from 
> you paypal account. It is NOT free.
> 
> 
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Jerry Herrman 
> To: mercedes 
> Sent: Tue, Nov 8, 2011 1:17 pm
> Subject: [MBZ] Ebay fees
> 
> 
> I have been intending for some time to list a few items on Ebay. Never seem 
> to 
> have the time to get organized, study how to do it, etc. Today I receive an 
> email from Ebay claiming I can list up to 50 items per month free. However, 
> in 
> the fine print, maybe its not free. Here's what the fine print says:
> 
> "*List FREE: Up to 50 Auction-style items per month. Additional optional 
> Feature fees apply when used. 9% final value fee applied to the total amount 
> of 
> the sale-including the cost of the item, shipping, and any other fees a 
> seller 
> may charge (for example, engraving or gift wrapping), excluding any sales 
> tax. 
> Does not apply to eBay Store subscribers and Vehicle categories on eBay 
> Motors. 
> "
> 
> Does this mean I would pay a 9% fee on the final amount? Seems like a lot 
> (especially for "free".)
> What would I be paying if the listing were not "free", or if I listed more 
> than 
> 50 items per month? 
> Is this something new or recent? Would the fee for selling auto parts be 
> different?
> I'm hoping one or more of you have experience with this and can advise me.
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Jerry
> 82 240D
> 
> 
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> 
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> 
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[MBZ] Vacuum connector removal?

[dave walton]

I'm trying to track down some weirdness with my 1998 S500 where the
trunk opens when I start the car. The Locking and Close Assist pump
connections use a round plastic connector with 4 arms that extend over
the nipple on the pump. Each has an inside barb that catches a lip on
the nipple to keep it in place. Looks like you have to pull all 4
outward from the nipple at once to get the thing off. Anyone know a
trick to get them off easily? Is there a tool that would help?

Suggestions on fixing the underlying problem are appreciated as well.
Rusty can get me the pump, but I'd like to do a bit of troubleshooting
first.

Thanks

-Dave Walton

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