Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: 230 inline 6

2013-10-14 Thread Jonas Thaler
I like to remind people that the 235 was in the first Corvettes!  Albeit with 
multiple carbs and/or mechanical fuel injection (I forget).

I have a beautiful rebuilt 235 in my 59 3200 and it looks, sounds and performs 
solid as a rock.  I had a chance to rebuild a 261, but decided to stay with the 
original 235 engine.  In the end I had to swap blocks anyway, but I am happy 
with the result.

Let's hear it for the Thriftmaster.


Jonas Thaler
post production
MOB PHONE   +1 575 791 2605
SECURE FAX  +1 575 541 3006
jonastha...@jonasthaler.com





On Oct 14, 2013, at 10:17 AM, Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net wrote:

 
 There is more to it than that Bill. You would have to fashion special 
 brackets to mount the mounts to. It's not impossible and your local welding 
 shop could probably help, but it is much preferable to use the 235 or 261 in 
 this truck. Of course we see lots of V8s in these trucks so anything is 
 possible. Remember, there will be linkage issues, connection issues, radiator 
 clearance issues, small stuff to consider as well.
 
  
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of corval...@peoplepc.com
 Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 9:27 AM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] RE: 230 inline 6
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 Could you drill holes and bolt the motor mounts to the frame?  Bill in Oregon
 
  
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of rsi...@cox.net
 Sent: Monday, October 14, 2013 7:04 AM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] RE: 230 inline 6
 
  
 
 I thought about it too for my 54.  My understanding is that you will need to 
 weld in new engine mounts on your frame.  That was more than I wanted to 
 tackle.   I waited until I found a 235 that is just a bolt in.  Others will 
 likely have better information.  If you don't mind putting in the engine 
 mounts it should be a good engine otherwise.  
 
 
 
 ---In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 wrote:
 
 Anyone installed a 230 inline 6 in a 1951 3100? I went and looked at one 
 yesterday and wasn't sure how difficult it would be to  install in my truck.
 Thanks, Robert
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 



Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE : Fuel Needs

2013-10-09 Thread Jonas Thaler
I didn't go to the auction because I fear crowds, but I really enjoyed your 
story vicariously.  And what fun to do the trip in your 1950.  Thanks for 
sharing.

Jonas Thaler

 On Oct 9, 2013, at 7:42 PM, Arizona Pride! tikua...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
 Randy Rundle of Fifth Avenue Antique Auto Parts, told me to put in a little 
 less than a pint of diesel fuel, every time I filled up my 1950 Chevy; during 
 my trip cross country, after the Lambrecht Auction.  Before I did that, I got 
 vapor locked, in NM; after I started adding the diesel; no more vapor lock.  
 The diesel does something to absorb some of the ethanol; exactly what, I 
 don't know.
 
 The auction was a hoot and a combination of a gypsy carnival/soy bean field, 
 mud run, good ol boy soiree.   People were bidding like it was monopoly money 
 and other people were scratching their heads trying to figure out the psych 
 up to the auction that created the frenzy.  The locals all turned out to 
 witness the circus and were all just wonderful to meet.   People were selling 
 everything from fudge to beef jerky in their drive way stands.   The 
 Lambrecht Chevy Building was a Mecca to which everyone was drawn to take 
 photos, right in the center of Pierce.  On auction day, I parked my Aztec Tan 
 1950 More Door Chevy, right smack dab, in front of the building and it became 
 a photo prop for the day.  That was my own contribution to the weekends 
 excitement.   When I came back to retrieve the Chevy, an older gent, who had 
 spent the day sitting in the shade and watching all of the people, said he 
 figures over 500 people took pictures of my car  during the day.   Well, the 
 next day, when anyone saw me driving it; they would say Isn't that the car 
 that was parked in front of Lambrecht's yesterday?  And, that would start a 
 whole new conversation.
 
 Saturday AM, before going to the auction, I watched a patriotic parade in old 
 downtown Norfolk. Being as there are many small towns in that area; every Jr 
 and High School band within 50 miles was in the parade.  That was the most 
 bands that I  have ever seen in 70 years of parade watching.
 
 Saturday night, I went to the Extra Special Cruise In at the Norfolk Sonic 
 Drive In.   It was the biggest turn out they had ever had; as there were 
 vintage/collector cars from all over the country.Once again, many people 
 asked if my car was in front of Lambrecht's on Saturday.
 
 I did have Carby problems, in addition to vapor locking, one time.   Turns 
 out the float was set way too high and the bowl over filled and started 
 leaking.  Not only that, but the garage that supposedly got my cat road 
 worthy, also forgot to connect the accelerator pump external linkage and so I 
 used my choke a lot.  That is until a JC auto shop, instructor, in La Junta, 
 CO, inspected the carboy and adjust the float and connected the accelerator 
 pump.   My carboy still leaks and will get it properly fixed now that I am 
 home.
 
 Only had rain one day, fierce NE wind blew off my magnetic reflective sign 
 that read ARIZONA OR RUST, missed the flooded parts of the South Platte and 
 got out of Nebraska, two days before the blizzard hit.
 
 I fell in love with the Chevy as it cruised along at 65 MPH with 19 MPG; 
 after the carboy was temporarily fixed.
 
 Highlights:  seeing that Cameo pickup sell for $140,000, seeing a guy spend 
 $2,000 on a rusted out 1950 Deluxe Chevy to get $4,000 worth of SS trim, 
 bumpers with guards and wings and front and back fender gravel shields, a 
 radio and Deluxe Hood Ornament;  auctioneers working of of a flat bed trailer 
 being pulled up and down the rows of cars, dozens of seniors with walkers 
 traipsing through the mud, just to experience this once in a life time event.
 
 Lowlight:  all of the neglect and rust in all of those wonderful Cheys.
 
 Last night on the road; finally got to sleep in a teepee at the Holbrook 
 Wigwam; which was a boyhood dream.  You see, my Dad thought they were too 
 garish, back in the 50's and wouldn't stay in those type of Route 66  
 artsy/touristy places.
 
 Even with the supposedly repaired items coming back to get me; I had a great 
 time.
 
 
 On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 7:00 PM, Robert Westmoreland 
 rl_westmorel...@yahoo.com wrote:
  
 We have several stations in SC that have ethanol free premium. Most all 
 Hickory Point stations have it. Also have at least one station that carries 
 regular
   premium ethanol free.
 
 
 On Wednesday, October 9, 2013 2:42 PM, Mark Noakes m...@noakes.com wrote:
  
 
 I've been buying 100% pump gas for a while in TN. It is definitely more 
 expensive by quite a bit. It is also not widely available, and sometimes it 
 is regular and sometimes premium only.
 
 Mark N
 
 Oct 9, 2013 07:30:52 AM, old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com wrote:
 
 
  
 
 I don’t think they sell straight gas at the pump anymore… anywhere.  I buy 
 bulk straight gas (300 gals at a time) and it actually costs more than your 
 10

Re: [old-chevy-truck] fuel pump question

2013-08-20 Thread Jonas Thaler
Speaking of electric fuel pumps..

I seem to remember that an electric fuel pump can be advantageous at high 
altitudes.  We live part time at 4800ft (NM) and often drive quite a bit higher 
from there.  I haven't brought my 59 3200 (235) out yet from California but I 
am intending to do so soon.  Anyone have any suggestions?

Yeah, I'm that guy who's  always trying to solve problems before they even 
happen!

=-=-=jonas

 



On Aug 20, 2013, at 6:16 PM, Arizona Pride! tikua...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I buy my electric fuel pumps from Firth Avenue Antique Auto Parts, in Kansas. 
  They are gear driven and used by many participants in the Great Races.   I 
 just put one on my 1950 Chevy, 4 door, Styleline Deluxe, in order to prepare 
 for a cross country road trip.  They aren't cheap; but many have made it 
 across the Ghobi Desert in Africa.
 
 
 From: Goulet, John A. gou...@wpi.edu
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 4:49 PM
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] fuel pump question
 
 
 hi!
 
 Those of you who use an electric fuel pump - - what brand do you use and what 
 kind of life do you
 get out of them?
 
 Thanks!
 john
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
 behalf of Willy Morrison [willymorri...@yahoo.com]
 Sent: Tuesday, August 20, 2013 7:48 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Truck for sale
 
 Making my annual pilgrimage and looking for a unmolested Chevy pick-up. I fly 
 into San Antonio on Aug 28th with a friend. He is buying an 2011 GMC truck 
 and I'm buying a car hauler and any antique truck I can find.
 My route passes by Dallas, Little Rock, Memphis, Louisville, Cincinnati, 
 Cleveland, Buffalo all the way to Boston and back into Atlantic Canada. I can 
 go off route for a nice truck.
 I had a 1950 but was too rough for my skill set. I've been a not so active 
 member of Old Chevy Truck for almost 8 years.
 I know you guys love your trucks but if someone is looking for a good home 
 for one they aren't using or have a buddy I'd greatly appreciate the lead.
 Thanks in advance for your consideration.
 
 Willy Morrison
 Cape Breton, Nova Scotia
 
 
 From: Standard Man jawr1...@sbcglobal.netmailto:jawr1861%40sbcglobal.net
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.commailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Monday, July 29, 2013 9:14:35 PM
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Truck for sale
 
 --- In 
 old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.commailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com, 
 ksfarmmer rsims2@... wrote:
 
  Not mine, but a neighbor has 1950 1/2 ton he really wants to get rid of. 
  Looks complete, except somebody stole the starter, battery and coil. He is 
  looking to sell so I am guessing that you could get it for $500-1000 or 
  less. Body is decent didn't see much rust. Always shedded, now covered in 
  dust. Tag is dated 1977 so it hasn't run in a bit. I'd snap it up in a 
  heart beat if I didn't have a 54 and 56 in similar condition as well as a 
  lot of work to do on my 49. Located near Topeka. Guy's name is Jim Smith 
  785-862-5523 if someone might be interested.
 
 I bought the truck from Jim. Thanks for the heads up.
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
 To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: 
  old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : 216/235 261 Ignition Timing

2013-07-06 Thread Jonas Thaler
Would you then move the timing light to the other five spark plugs to make sure 
they were all firing?  Great tip.



On Jul 6, 2013, at 11:39 AM, Bill Hanlon bill_han...@comcast.net wrote:

 Do you have a timing light? If so, hook it up and point it at the
 windshield. Turn on the key and hit the starter. If the light flashes the
 plugs (at least the one that you hooked the timing light to) are getting
 fire. 
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of dazysnow
 Sent: Saturday, July 06, 2013 11:41 AM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Re : 216/235  261 Ignition Timing
 
 The engine has to start before you can fine tune unfortunately. Ole Red has
 never started after a year. I need a way to sit at the wheel and know if the
 plugs are getting fire. I have no assistant and no one in this area will
 work on anything this old. I guess the economy must be better than I think.
 Ole Red has a 52 235 engine.
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : Magnetic Drain Plugs

2013-06-30 Thread Jonas Thaler
With the addition of a Sonicare toothbrush rare earth magnet to suck iron 
filings out of your universal joint, your Advanced Design (or whatever) truck 
will be downright Sputnik!


On Jun 30, 2013, at 10:05 AM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 Sounds good to me ! .
 
 Where to get 'em ? .
 
 Just remember to finger feel the depth before putting in something too long .
 
 -Nate
 Chico wrote :
 
  Thanks for the info, Nate. Makes sense, worked well, and much more useful 
  info than in the manual.
  
  As to magnetic drain plug...any thoughts on putting one of the newer rare 
  earth magnets on the end of a normal or magnetic drain plug? They're so 
  strong they'd never bounce off but their magnetic fields extend so much 
  further than a normal magnet, so they would probably grab metal bits sooner 
  and more readily...?
  
  On Jun 23, 2013, at 2:43 PM, corvallis@... wrote:
  
   Q: mount the magnetic plug high or low .and why? Bill in oregon
   
   _ 
   
   From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
   [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nate
   Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 2:16 PM
   To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
   Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Lube procedure after transmission u-bolt
   repair?
   
   The U-Joint should be liberally lubricated with gear oil as you assemble 
   it
   , then remove the 1/2 NPT filler plug on the right side of the 
   transmission
   and slowly pump in EP85W- gear oil until it burps back out then wait a 
   while
   and add a bit more ~ the U-Joint cavity fill slowly by flowing the oil
   through the out put shaft's rear ball bearing so this takes time , DO NOT
   RUSH filling the tranny with oil .
   
   I hope you remembered to add a 1/2 NPT _magnetic_ oil drain plug ? .
   
   -Nate 
   
   ===
   
   Chico wrote :
   
Hi - I'm getting ready to close the driveshaft-to-transmission 
connection
   on my '49 3100. 

A question: the repair manual talks about putting lube in through one of
   the plugs near the rear of the transmission after repair, but it doesn't
   give any details. How much? I assume it's the standard transmission stuff
   (90-weight, as I recall)? Won't that affect the level in the transmission
   case itself? As you can tell by my questions, I'm confused.

So what's the lubrication procedure when re-attaching the closed
   driveshaft to the transmission?

Thanks..


   
   
   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
   
   
  
  
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] This has to be a dream!!

2013-06-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
This news is going to spread to Scandinavia, Australia etc where there are a 
lot of Chevy collectors with money.  Sigh. Wish I had 500K sitting around in my 
hobby account!
  
You are so right about enjoying the journey.  Auctions like this mostly benefit 
the auctioneers and their client, the seller.  But you never know.  And if you 
don't count on winning a good deal of a lifetime, you can have fun looking at 
all the incredible stuff.




On Jun 27, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Karl Eastman drbog...@yahoo.com wrote:

 It looked like a random assortment of cars, and several were 4 doors that 
 nobody wanted then or now.
 I have a 58 Chevy Fleetside pickup that I brought home to Kentucky from Omaha 
 Nebraska to restore. 
 I also own a 59 Chevy Stepside and a several muscle cars, that I brought with 
 me when I took the job transfer from California to Kentucky.
 It was truly sad to see the roof caved in on the Cameo pickup.
 Hopefully it will sell for a realistic price and not some big money deal that 
 is unrealistic in today's market. I hope that all the folks who make the 
 pilgrimage to the sale,  enjoy the journey. 
 
 
 From: Arizona Pride! tikua...@yahoo.com
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 1:25 PM
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] This has to be a dream!!
 
 
   
 I already have reservations at a motel in Norfolk, NE, 14 miles south of 
 Pierce, NE.  This is an opportunity of a life time for a Chevy guy.
 
 
 From: ksfarmmer rsi...@cox.net
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 10:06 AM
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] This has to be a dream!!
 
   
 Just found out about a Chevy dealer in Nebraska that has over 500 cars being 
 sold, many NSO. You have to check this out:
 
 http://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auctions_details.php?detail=135allimages=NO
 
 http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/scores-chevys-hidden-50-years-finally-sale-160911547.html?fb_action_ids=175526362622736fb_action_types=og.recommendsfb_ref=facebook_cbfb_source=other_multilineaction_object_map=%7B%22175526362622736%22%3A622162191129558%7Daction_type_map=%7B%22175526362622736%22%3A%22og.recommends%22%7Daction_ref_map=%7B%22175526362622736%22%3A%22facebook_cb%22%7D
 
 The video in the second link is unbelievable. 58 Chevy truck with ONE (that's 
 right 1 mile on the odometer). 78 Corvette with 10 miles and many more. 
 Something for everyone here
 
 Sorry if the links aren't hot. I am sure you can cut and paste if they don't 
 work by clicking.
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] This has to be a dream!!

2013-06-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
If you're looking for something wonderful happening in Nebraska, Union 
Pacific's fully operational steam locomotive, UP844 is making whistle stops in 
the state right now.Currently at Potter, NE. 
http://www.up.com/aboutup/special_trains/steam/trace.cfm It's very exciting to 
be standing on the platform when that big oil-spewing beauty black beauty huffs 
and puffs its way into the station.  Sights and sounds from at least 75 years 
ago.  A mechanical and historical marvel.  Must see.


On Jun 29, 2013, at 2:39 AM, Arizona Pride! tikua...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I am contemplating  buying a 1962 Chevy Impala; just like the one I had, 
 1965-1973, on Craig's List, in Minnesota.   I'll fly, one way, to Minnesota 
 to visit my cousins, for a week, and pick up my Chevy, if I buy it.  If I 
 don't buy that car; I'll definitely buy some Chevy and resell it when I get 
 back home.   If I am able to sell RED RYDER; I may just keep the new road 
 trip car.I'll take a leisurely road trip to Pierce, Nebraska and spend a 
 few days enjoying the area and every possible pre-auction event, that I can 
 find.   I'll be driving my cool Chevy and meeting people from all over the 
 world.  After two days of a historic auction; I'll leisurely head back to 
 Arizona, with a pocketful of memories.   See the USA, in our Chevrolets
 
 
 From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Saturday, June 29, 2013 12:25 AM
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] This has to be a dream!!
 
 
 This news is going to spread to Scandinavia, Australia etc where there are a 
 lot of Chevy collectors with money.  Sigh. Wish I had 500K sitting around in 
 my hobby account!
   
 You are so right about enjoying the journey.  Auctions like this mostly 
 benefit the auctioneers and their client, the seller.  But you never know.  
 And if you don't count on winning a good deal of a lifetime, you can have fun 
 looking at all the incredible stuff.
 
 On Jun 27, 2013, at 4:11 PM, Karl Eastman drbog...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  It looked like a random assortment of cars, and several were 4 doors that 
  nobody wanted then or now.
  I have a 58 Chevy Fleetside pickup that I brought home to Kentucky from 
  Omaha Nebraska to restore. 
  I also own a 59 Chevy Stepside and a several muscle cars, that I brought 
  with me when I took the job transfer from California to Kentucky.
  It was truly sad to see the roof caved in on the Cameo pickup.
  Hopefully it will sell for a realistic price and not some big money deal 
  that is unrealistic in today's market. I hope that all the folks who make 
  the pilgrimage to the sale,  enjoy the journey. 
  
  
  From: Arizona Pride! tikua...@yahoo.com
  To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 1:25 PM
  Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] This has to be a dream!!
  
  
   
  I already have reservations at a motel in Norfolk, NE, 14 miles south of 
  Pierce, NE.  This is an opportunity of a life time for a Chevy guy.
  
  
  From: ksfarmmer rsi...@cox.net
  To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Thursday, June 27, 2013 10:06 AM
  Subject: [old-chevy-truck] This has to be a dream!!
  
   
  Just found out about a Chevy dealer in Nebraska that has over 500 cars 
  being sold, many NSO. You have to check this out:
  
  http://www.vanderbrinkauctions.com/auctions_details.php?detail=135allimages=NO
  
  http://autos.yahoo.com/blogs/motoramic/scores-chevys-hidden-50-years-finally-sale-160911547.html?fb_action_ids=175526362622736fb_action_types=og.recommendsfb_ref=facebook_cbfb_source=other_multilineaction_object_map=%7B%22175526362622736%22%3A622162191129558%7Daction_type_map=%7B%22175526362622736%22%3A%22og.recommends%22%7Daction_ref_map=%7B%22175526362622736%22%3A%22facebook_cb%22%7D
  
  The video in the second link is unbelievable. 58 Chevy truck with ONE 
  (that's right 1 mile on the odometer). 78 Corvette with 10 miles and many 
  more. Something for everyone here
  
  Sorry if the links aren't hot. I am sure you can cut and paste if they 
  don't work by clicking.
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
 To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: 
  old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: rattling transmission

2013-06-09 Thread Jonas Thaler
Here is a link showing how people do this very technique on customized classic 
trucks.
http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/1003cct_how_to_safety_wire/photo_10.html
  (Apparently.)  Fascinating.  Never knew this.  Now I am going to check my 
shock mounts this weekend!

On Jun 8, 2013, at 11:19 PM, Luke Zsiga 50ch...@gmail.com wrote:

 Great advice Rick. Can't believe I didn't think of that already as I used
 to work on airplanes and already have a set of safety wire pliers!
 
 Thanks a ton, (or a 1/2 ton;)
 Luke
 
 On Saturday, June 8, 2013, Rick Wagner wrote:
 
  Lukeread your story here. This is what I would suggest. Find online or
  where ever a place that sells aircraft quality type bolts. They will have
  small holes drilled in the head of the bolts which you could wire tie like
  they do on aircraft. I would do a double and use lock tight with the
  aircraft bolts then wire tie the bolts after they are torqued in place. I
  think this would keep them from coming loose.
  Another way to keep the bolts from coming loose would be to use an old
  style type of bolt locking washer. They are u shaped and fit between two
  bolts with tabs that bend up when the bolts are torqued into place. The
  tabs are bent up to keep the bolt from coming loose. These are very
  effective but may be hard to find these days as they are old technology.
  The air craft stuff is very obtainable. Hope this gives you some ideas.
  Good luck!! Rick
 
 
  On Thu, Jun 6, 2013 at 3:54 PM, Luke Zsiga 50ch...@gmail.comjavascript:;
  wrote:
 
   **
  
  
   Hi Guys,
  
   my transmission is making a rattling noise again. This same thing
   happened two years ago and I found that the bolt holding the front
   half of the U-joint into the transmission shaft had fallen out and was
   bouncing around in the U-joint. 10+yrs ago when I installed it I
   torqued the bolt to whatever was asked, then two years ago I cleaned
   the threads with brake cleaner to get rid of any oil, applied lock
   tight and overtightened it but it has still came un done again.
  
   I have been driving for about 6 months with this bolt out and nothing
   has happened. The first time it happened I drove for about a year
   before fixing it. Do you guys think I could just remove the bolt?
  
   Or does anyone have any suggestions on how to make sure it doesnt come
   out again?
  
   Thanks for all your help,
   Luke
  
  
 
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
  
 
  Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
  To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email),
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[old-chevy-truck] Re-sending link to aircraft safety wired bolts

2013-06-09 Thread Jonas Thaler
Some nice photos of this technique.

http://www.customclassictrucks.com/techarticles/1003cct_how_to_safety_wire/photo_10.html
 
 

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: no wheels (still)

2013-06-01 Thread Jonas Thaler
I used the LT215/85-16 solution on my 59 3200.  I'm very happy with the ride 
height and now my truck can really haul stuff.  Before I rode on 15 
P225/75-15's and I was always nervous carrying a load.




On May 31, 2013, at 10:22 PM, ccpanel ccpa...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Im going to run 16x6 rims with 215/85-16 tires on my suburban.
 MAYBE 225/85-16
 either one will look good and look period correct. 
 both are a common and reasonably priced size.
 
 8 lug is gonna be the hard part-you may try a trailer store. lots of 
 tall/skinny and 8 lug.
 
 do NOT get a 16.5 rim-tires are expensive, heavy, and stiff and 
 expensive(getting more rare)
 Mark
 
 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Tom Johnston johnstn@... wrote:
 
  First I want to thank all those who responded to my questions (subject: no 
  wheels). I gave every response serious consideration and followed up all 
  suggestions. But I have not yet found the answer. In review, I am seeking 
  wheels
  for my 1946 Chevy 3/4 ton p/u. Steel wheels that look original, and will 
  fit 
  700-16 bias ply tires. More precisely 16-4 1/2, 8 on 6 1/2 lug pattern. I 
  have been told that maybe mid 70s 3/4 ton Chevy wheels might work. Much 
  older than that, they used split rims, and much newer than that the trucks 
  had disc brakes and the wheels wont fit over brake drums.
  
  What do people with older trucks, especially 3/4 ton and up, do about 
  wheels? Of course if you restore 100% original, to show, you must use what 
  came on it, ie, split rims. Correct? I'm pretty sure everyone else deep 
  sixes the split rims. If you don't care too much about staying original 
  there are more options, like using radial tires which can use wider rims, 
  and
  perhaps go to 15 inch wheels. Some may even go to aluminium or mag or 
  spoker 
  wheels. But I am one of those who think
  that if you are not going the hot rod or rat rod route (and that's 
  perfectly 
  ok), then it should at least look original. And for me that means bias ply, 
  high profile tires. I lived in the 1940s so I remember what these trucks 
  looked like.
  
  But I am not locked into anything. I am keeping an open mind about it and 
  if 
  I must go to lower profile tires then I will. But I need to do something. 
  By 
  the way, I did consider the suggestion about putting it on rollers of some 
  kind, (the tires have rotted out from under this thing and it is sitting on 
  the old split rims). But I do need to be able to roll it out doors onto a 
  gravel driveway.
  
  Tom
 
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58

2013-05-16 Thread Jonas Thaler
Unless you want to be authentic and install the original T3 high and low beam 
lamps.  They were in use until some time in the 60's I think.  There should be 
plenty of NOS ones floating around still on the auction site(s).



On May 16, 2013, at 6:47 PM, Bill Hanlon bill_han...@comcast.net wrote:

 If you are looking for the low beam bulbs any FLAPS, WalMart, etc will have
 them. Stock were 4001, you can now find halogen replacements in the same
 physical size that put out more light. Look for a H4001.
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Alagna
 Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 4:18 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58
 
 I can't help you out but I have a request for everyone as well: Where do
 you get low beam headlights for a 59 Apache? 
 
 Thanks,
 
 Tom
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com ] On Behalf Of Nicholasm
 Sent: Thursday, May 16, 2013 12:25 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com 
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] A few items needed for my 58
 
 Hi Guys,
 I am currently trying to get my Dad's 58 Apache up and running. I am in need
 of a few items, hopefully someone can help me out.
 
 I need a set of PAINTED headlight bezels from a 58/59 Chevy. I am also
 looking for a set of ORIGINAL,dull is ok, CHROME Bumper Guards from a 58/59
 GMC.
 
 Thanks a bunch and Keep on Truckin.
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 8 Lug 16 Wheels

2013-05-01 Thread Jonas Thaler
So sorry to hear that you wasted your time and got attitude to boot.   To use a 
technical term: that sucks.  

In case it matters I dealt with Shelli mostly.  I did have a totally different 
experience.  I found a 16 van wheel which fit my 59 3200 perfectly and 
accommodates the narrowest and highest-profile radial I could find.  From 
memory they are LT 215/85R/16.  They look great (correct ride height).  I would 
have to drill them for hubcap clips, but I thought they looked silly on those 
bigger wheels anyway when I mocked it up.

Shelli was very patient with me and we shipped wheels back and forth a couple 
of times.  There was a weird inconsistency with stock and manufacturer model 
numbers and she eventually found me the right ones.

Maybe the wheels I got were from the 80's.

One of my alternatives was to actually have the wheels custom made.  There was 
a wheel shop in Corona, CA I found who were smart and communicative.  I was 
going to have to give them a SLEW of exact measurements, eg setback, etc. and 
it was going to be pricey.
 






On May 1, 2013, at 9:18 AM, Tom Johnston john...@whidbey.net wrote:

 Jonas wrote:
 
 I repeat my recommendation of Hubcap Heaven in Nashville, TN. 
 http://www.hubcapheavennashville.com/ If they don't already have 'em, they 
 can find these wheels and will not rip you off. They arrive clean in a 
 real cardboard wheel box!
 ight track.
 
 Hi Jonas. You must have had a lot different experience with Hubcap Heaven 
 than I just did on the phone. First thing the lady did was ask what year 
 truck I had. When I told her she lost all interest in talking to me at all 
 (they were busy, I'll give them that). She said they only go back as far as 
 the late 80s or 90s. When I asked about fitment and something to accomodate 
 brake drums she didn't even want to talk to me.
 Tom
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 8 Lug 16 Wheels

2013-04-30 Thread Jonas Thaler
I repeat my recommendation of Hubcap Heaven in Nashville, TN.  
http://www.hubcapheavennashville.com/  If they don't already have 'em, they can 
find these wheels and will not rip you off.  They arrive clean in a real 
cardboard wheel box!





On Apr 30, 2013, at 6:00 AM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 Good morning Tom ;
 
 Many use the wheels from 1970's vintage Econoline Vans.
 
 They're out there and cheap , have the correct offset and clear the drums and 
 tie rods ends fine .
 
 They're still a very popular wheel for Work Tricks so they tend to go pretty 
 fast in the So. Cal. junkyards I use .
 
 They won't hold your hub caps .
 
 I hope no one uses split rims anymore , you're on the right track.
 
 -Nate
 Tom wrote :
 
  First I want to thank all those who responded to my questions (subject: no 
  wheels). I gave every response serious consideration and followed up all 
  suggestions. But I have not yet found the answer. In review, I am seeking 
  wheels
  for my 1946 Chevy 3/4 ton p/u. Steel wheels that look original, and will 
  fit 
  700-16 bias ply tires. More precisely 16-4 1/2, 8 on 6 1/2 lug pattern. I 
  have been told that maybe mid 70s 3/4 ton Chevy wheels might work. Much 
  older than that, they used split rims, and much newer than that the trucks 
  had disc brakes and the wheels wont fit over brake drums.
  
  What do people with older trucks, especially 3/4 ton and up, do about 
  wheels? Of course if you restore 100% original, to show, you must use what 
  came on it, ie, split rims. Correct? I'm pretty sure everyone else deep 
  sixes the split rims. If you don't care too much about staying original 
  there are more options, like using radial tires which can use wider rims, 
  and
  perhaps go to 15 inch wheels. Some may even go to aluminium or mag or 
  spoker 
  wheels. But I am one of those who think
  that if you are not going the hot rod or rat rod route (and that's 
  perfectly 
  ok), then it should at least look original. And for me that means bias ply, 
  high profile tires. I lived in the 1940s so I remember what these trucks 
  looked like.
  
  But I am not locked into anything. I am keeping an open mind about it and 
  if 
  I must go to lower profile tires then I will. But I need to do something. 
  By 
  the way, I did consider the suggestion about putting it on rollers of some 
  kind, (the tires have rotted out from under this thing and it is sitting on 
  the old split rims). But I do need to be able to roll it out doors onto a 
  gravel driveway.
  
  Tom
 
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Tune up hijacked!

2013-04-20 Thread Jonas Thaler
For people who live in places where there is copious sunlight, finding a shady 
spot to do the tune-up is essential.  And marking the BB with some kind of glow 
in the dark magic toenail polish (dollar store!) really helps as well.





On Apr 20, 2013, at 1:06 PM, Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net wrote:

 I am working as I have time on Nate's Tuneup procedure. He did a wonderful
 job of making a really detailed procedure, but I want to add pictures of
 each step and really make it sweet. Hang in there all who are waiting for
 it, it's worth the wait. 
 
 The website is undergoing a very massive upgrade. My youngest son is a web
 programmer and is making it awesome. The step-by-step procedure on the
 complete frame-up restoration is also changing. In the past 10 years, paint
 technology has changed so much that I took a good look at the frame I did 10
 years ago, didnt like the way it looked, and started over with the new
 methods. This means I will be shooting pics and explaining things in finer
 detail soon. Soon however is a relative term and I wish I had more time!
 
 The re-riveting procedure IS up on the site now and I promise the next thing
 is Nate's Tuning Procedure. Thanks for the encouragement!
 
 Meanwhile, all of you AD Fans, check this out:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/advance-design_parts_co/8250842127/in/set-72157
 632186114015
 
 -Original Message-
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chico Woodhill
 Sent: Thursday, April 18, 2013 4:09 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Tune up hijacked!
 
 Deve, I've been lurking this list since 1999 (back when Bob Adler was the
 go-to knowledge wizard, the role that Nate has since taken to the next
 level). 
 
 In those days I was fascinated by your web pages, the level of detail you
 were putting into your projects, and all the great pictures of your
 progress. I've been patiently waiting these last 10 years, checking in every
 so often to see what's new on your site. Very glad to hear you're back on
 it!
 
 -- chico
 
 On Mar 28, 2013, at 12:18 PM, Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net wrote:
 
  I am putting the finishing touches on the re-riveting document now, so in
 about a week or so, I should have it on the site. Then other documents will
 start happening faster.. My son is helping me completely re-do the site. Its
 been over 10 years since I put anything new there but things are about to
 change. 
  
  Deve
  www.speedprint.com/Deves50
  
 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] no wheels

2013-04-15 Thread Jonas Thaler
I had very good luck with the women who run HUBCAP HEAVEN in Nashville.  They 
kept at it until I had a set of four 16 wheels for my 59 3200 which worked 
perfectly for what I wanted to do.  They gave me credit for the ones which 
didn't work.   They looked at jpegs and returned emails right away.

http://www.hubcapheavennashville.com/

Hope this helps.

~~jonas





On Apr 15, 2013, at 6:02 PM, corval...@peoplepc.com wrote:

 Are any of these rims close? Bill in Oregon
 http://tinyurl.com/cz8jm8o
 
 ==
 -Original Message-
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tom Johnston
 Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 5:03 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] no wheels
 
 Hi Chevy truckers
 Well I finally decided to start on a 1946 3/4 ton pickup that has been 
 sitting in my barn for the last 25 years. First things first, I need to put 
 some tires on it, as all its tires are rotten
 and will not even hold air. When it came to me it had 750-15 tires on the 
 back and 750-17 on the front. What it was delivered with new, I haven't a 
 clue. I would like to put 700-16 tires on it all around, and get rid of the 
 split rim wheels. I suppose I could put lower profile tires on it, but it 
 just would not look right IMO. What do you think?
 
 The problem is, there are no wheels available that I can find. What I want 
 are 16 inch stamped steel wheels 5 to 6 inchs wide, with 8 on 6 1/2 lug 
 pattern, which will handle the
 large brake drums. Coker say they are out of stock and it may be a half of 
 year before they
 get any, if they ever do.
 
 If I can't get the wheels I need I will either have to settle for wider 
 tires, or use the split rims which I won't do, or part the truck out. I hate
 
 to part it out as it is a complete and rust
 free truck. Any ideas out there? Any one know of a source for the wheels I 
 want? Thanx.
 
 Tom
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
 To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email),
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Correct OEM Wheels for 58 Apache?

2013-02-06 Thread Jonas Thaler
Aha!  You are ½ correct.  I learned the hard way that there are two designs.  
Both seem to have the same GM stock number 1621.  One has a hub that is too 
small, with a center hole with scalloped shapes; hole diameter is about 3 
3/16.  That one would need to be machined out to the larger round size.  
Sadly, most of the wheels available are the smaller scallopped-hole design.  
The one you want has the perfectly round hole, 3 ¾ in diameter, just like the 
1950's wheels.

FYI:

The wheels I bought that did FIT (with the center hole perfectly round and 3 ¾ 
in diameter) had the following markings in between the lug holes:

1) 15 G K1/93
2) 77 B K1/82 (or maybe K1/92)
3) (?) J (?)

and on the rim on either side of the valve stem:

1) K193 10 27 RAJ 
2) K192 2 28 RAJ
3) (?) (?) (?) RAJ

And, if you're still reading this….   Shelley and Carole, the very smart women 
at Hubcap Heaven in Nashville, TN, helped me figure this out and were very 
gracious about exchanging wheels until we got it right.

Hope this helps!

=-=-=jonas
 




On Feb 6, 2013, at 8:25 AM, Dan Lovell dan_lov...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Jonas,
 
 Thanks for the info, and I like your solution, but I've read that the '88-'98 
 GM Wheels (like the link) although they have a 6 lug pattern, the hub is 
 smaller and will not fit a 50s Task force truck without some machining.
 
 Is this one like the ones you're using?
 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1988-98-CHEVROLET-GMC-TRUCK-VAN-16-X-6-5-6-LUG-STEEL-WHEEL-NOS-SINGLE-WHEEL-/350558154034?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessorieshash=item519ee4ed32vxp=mtr
 
 
 From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2013 7:39 PM
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Correct OEM Wheels for 58 Apache?
 
 After much research:
 
 I put 16-inch wheels on my 59 3200, fitted with LT215/85R16 radials.This 
 aspect ratio looks more like the original bias ply and the ride height is 
 perfect.  There did not appear to be a suitable size radial that fit 15in 
 wheels, and gave the correct ride height, except maybe one available only in 
 Canada, which I never even really located.  
 
 My 16in wheels are from early 1990's GM vans and they cost me no more than 
 than $50-60 each used online including shipping.  I tried to find them at 
 Pick-A-Part but to no avail.  They are very heavy duty and look 100% old 
 school.  I did not re-fit the hubcaps, because, well, my truck is a working 
 girl and who needs 'em?The wheels look great painted fire engine red and 
 the ride height is nice and tall as GM intended it to be.  It rides very 
 smoothly, and does not know what a speed bump is.  And the best part is I can 
 now actually haul stuff in the truck because the tires are LT light truck 
 rather than P passenger.
 
 Took me a bit of time and energy, but the results are great and it was not 
 too expensive.
 
 =-=-=jt
 
 On Jan 29, 2013, at 2:45 PM, Dan Lovell dan_lov...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  Looking for an inexpensive way to get my 58 Apache back to spec tires and 
  wheels.
  Would be great to run across an old set of originals.. I've looked and no 
  luck yet.
  
  Any aftermarket that are close? And I was thinking 15x8 but below someone 
  mentioned 7 or 7.5
  Whitewall tires would be nice too but I'm wanting this thing to drive 
  right, more than just looks.
  
  Any help appreciated!
  
  
  From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com
  To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 1:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Finally -- new wheels and real, manly, TRUCK 
  TIRES!
  
  Nate, thanks for the vote of confidence!
  
  You and a couple of others here inspired me to do my homework.  AFTER I got 
  B-S-'ed by the lying-sack-of-shirt guy at Just Tires, and threw $400 down 
  the crapper, I started reading up on tires and wheels. 
  
  It occurred to me, when I was hauling an entire kitchen of tile and sacks 
  of cement down from the Valley on tires that were meant for a Mercury 
  Marauder or a Lincoln Town Car,  that I was ACTUALLY USING IT AS A TRUCK 
  and might be endangering myself and others.
  
  On Aug 18, 2012, at 10:46 PM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:
  
   
   Jonas ;
   
   It sounds to me like you're going to be well pleased .
   
   Few bother to sort out the correct wheels  tires , this means their 
   truck looks cool but drives like crap , after a few years they dump it 
   and get another project
   
   These old trucks are extremely nice drivers in spite of no power steering 
   , this is no accident ! GM knew exactly what they were doing .
   
   -Nate
   Jonas wrote :
   
I think I might have solved the wheel tire and ride-height problem on 
my 59 3200. Or at least I have taken a step, maybe a gamble.

I found some very solid steel wheels from a 1990's Chevy van or pickup. 
They are 16 and the wheel-industry part number appears

Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Correct OEM Wheels for Task Force Trucks

2013-02-04 Thread Jonas Thaler
Fast is a sub-set of happy!  Not necessarily a sub-set of safe, however.  I 
also figured out that highway speed and ride height (obviously) were going to 
be determined by outer diameter.  I think I'm at 31 or 32 now.  My truck is 
now suitably menacing despite the sweet harmless green and white paint job.


On Feb 4, 2013, at 9:43 AM, Nate nathan.h...@lacity.org wrote:

 
 Yes ;
 
 Happy  Safe is good , you forgot _fast_ =8-) .
 
 Speed in old trucks is a relative thing but taking the time to sort out the 
 loose front end  spring shackles then fitting a good set of _radial_ LT 
 tires , makes a world of difference .
 
 I ran 16 6 lug rims on my '49 with Dayton LT's and it stuck to the road like 
 glue in spite of way too fast in the canyons . they also wore like iron in 
 spite of heavy Commercial Service and lots of towing , the boob who bought 
 then destroyed my old '49 prolly threw out the custom made 4 WWW tires I had 
 on it .
 
 I now have a '69 C/10 and it came to me with FUGLY American Racing steel 
 spoked wheels from , oh , 1972 I'd guess ~ they still had the original blue  
 red painted pinstripes amd crappy 14 tires , it took me a while to find a 
 set of original 15 steel wheels , sadly in 1969 you could get 15 or _16.5_ 
 wheels  tires , I went down that horrible 16.5 road once , never again .
 
 Happliy I met a nice young fellow who was building an ' Old School ' Truck , 
 he was shickled titless to get those worthless wheels  tires I even gave 
 him the original chrome lug nuts after I'd cleaned them up a bit .
 
 I always buy my tires by the outer diameter  tread width and my Son insisted 
 I try Falcon LT tires , they're very good indeed *but* the biggest O.D. they 
 make is only 28.9 ~ this means my poor old truck cannot go 65 MPH without 
 buzzing the crap out of it's tiny little 250 CID InLine 6 Banger..
 
 At least they are proper 6 lug 15 factory wheels and are now white and have 
 the correct painted  poverty  hub caps like a proper Ranch/Farm/Work Truck 
 ought .
 
 Hopefully the TH350C lock up torque converter tranny I bought , will raise 
 the usable Highway speed .
 
 You are correct , most Salesmen are not interested in Servicing the Customer 
 , they just want to move the highest profit margin junk or clear out old 
 stock or worse , sell you what _they_ think is  cool man !  .
 
 -Nate
 Jonas wrote :
 
  I forgot to give Nate credit for the Jonas' solution! (Thank you for 
  sharing this knowledge, not readily available elsewhere! It's amazing how 
  little a lot of the thieves in the tire and wheel business actually now 
  about their products…)
  
  I like my truck better without the hubcaps. The truck is Galway green and 
  cream and I painted the wheels fire engine red. 
  
  I have read of people who have drilled the 16 wheels and inserted the 
  clips without a problem, but I think they are a bit small and weenie for 
  those macho 16 wheels. It has more of a factory-yard farm look to it now, 
  which I prefer.
  
  This is all about driving on radials. If you want to stay with 15 wheels, 
  there is probably a set of bias-ply waiting for you at Coker or somewhere, 
  for too much money (IMHO). (Right?) Then she becomes a trailer queen and 
  you should never drive her very fast or carry a load.
  
  I don't ever drive my truck fast, but I do like to carry a load now and 
  then. I took home a ton of tile the other day which I bought at a discount 
  if I could haul it away, which I could.
  
  Happy. That and safe is what counts.
  
  
  
  
  On Feb 2, 2013, at 8:20 AM, Nate wrote:
  
   
   Look at Jonas' solution , he got back to the 16 wheels , maybe not 
   having original hub cap attachment though .
   
   I recently had to find a full set of 6 lug 15 wheels for my '60 C/10 , I 
   kept hitting up various Pick-A-Part yards and found two or three on one 
   older truck , I was surprised but pleased , they looked terrible with 
   many old coats of peeling paint but where solid so I bead blasted  
   powder coated them , they look fine and work well plus hold the original 
   hub caps fine .
   
   I'm still waiting to see the pictures of them .
   
   Good luck hunting ! .
   
   -Nate
   Dan wrote :
   
Looking for an inexpensive way to get my 58 Apache back to spec tires 
and wheels.
Would be great to run across an old set of originals.. I've looked and 
no luck yet.

Any aftermarket that are close? And I was thinking 15x8 but below 
someone mentioned 7 or 7.5
Whitewall tires would be nice too but I'm wanting this thing to drive 
right, more than just looks.

Any help appreciated!




From: Jonas Thaler 
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 1:57 AM
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Finally -- new wheels and real, manly, 
TRUCK TIRES!

Nate, thanks for the vote of confidence!

You and a couple

Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Correct OEM Wheels for 58 Apache?

2013-02-02 Thread Jonas Thaler
I forgot to give Nate credit for the Jonas' solution!   (Thank you for 
sharing this knowledge, not readily available elsewhere!  It's amazing how 
little a lot of the thieves in the tire and wheel business actually now about 
their products…)

I like my truck better without the hubcaps.  The truck is Galway green and 
cream and I painted the wheels fire engine red.  

I have read of people who have drilled the 16 wheels and inserted the clips 
without a problem, but I think they are a bit small and weenie for those macho 
16 wheels.  It has more of a factory-yard farm look to it now, which I prefer.

This is all about driving on radials.  If you want to stay with 15 wheels, 
there is probably a set of bias-ply waiting for you at Coker or somewhere, for 
too much money (IMHO).(Right?)  Then she becomes a trailer queen and you 
should never drive her very fast or carry a load.

I don't ever drive my truck fast, but I do like to carry a load now and then.  
I took home a ton of tile the other day which I bought at a discount if I could 
haul it away, which I could.

Happy.  That and safe is what counts.




On Feb 2, 2013, at 8:20 AM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 Look at Jonas' solution , he got back to the 16 wheels , maybe not having 
 original hub cap attachment though .
 
 I recently had to find a full set of 6 lug 15 wheels for my '60 C/10 , I 
 kept hitting up various Pick-A-Part yards and found two or three on one older 
 truck , I was surprised but pleased , they looked terrible with many old 
 coats of peeling paint but where solid so I bead blasted  powder coated them 
 , they look fine and work well plus hold the original hub caps fine .
 
 I'm still waiting to see the pictures of them .
 
 Good luck hunting ! .
 
 -Nate
 Dan wrote :
 
  Looking for an inexpensive way to get my 58 Apache back to spec tires and 
  wheels.
  Would be great to run across an old set of originals.. I've looked and no 
  luck yet.
  
  Any aftermarket that are close? And I was thinking 15x8 but below someone 
  mentioned 7 or 7.5
  Whitewall tires would be nice too but I'm wanting this thing to drive 
  right, more than just looks.
  
  Any help appreciated!
  
  
  
  
  From: Jonas Thaler 
  To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
  Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 1:57 AM
  Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Finally -- new wheels and real, manly, TRUCK 
  TIRES!
  
  Nate, thanks for the vote of confidence!
  
  You and a couple of others here inspired me to do my homework.  AFTER I got 
  B-S-'ed by the lying-sack-of-shirt guy at Just Tires, and threw $400 down 
  the crapper, I started reading up on tires and wheels. 
  
  It occurred to me, when I was hauling an entire kitchen of tile and sacks 
  of cement down from the Valley on tires that were meant for a Mercury 
  Marauder or a Lincoln Town Car,  that I was ACTUALLY USING IT AS A TRUCK 
  and might be endangering myself and others.
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  On Aug 18, 2012, at 10:46 PM, Nate wrote:
  
   
   Jonas ;
   
   It sounds to me like you're going to be well pleased .
   
   Few bother to sort out the correct wheels  tires , this means their 
   truck looks cool but drives like crap , after a few years they dump it 
   and get another project
   
   These old trucks are extremely nice drivers in spite of no power steering 
   , this is no accident ! GM knew exactly what they were doing .
   
   -Nate
   Jonas wrote :
   
I think I might have solved the wheel tire and ride-height problem on 
my 59 3200. Or at least I have taken a step, maybe a gamble.

I found some very solid steel wheels from a 1990's Chevy van or pickup. 
They are 16 and the wheel-industry part number appears to be 1621. The 
wheels fit the truck perfectly. I can now stop driving on those car 
tires (225/75R15) which were way too fat and too low and not properly 
load rated. These wheels will sport LT215/85R16 tires, which are 
thinner and taller and much closer to the original 7.0 or 7.5x15 bias 
ply that the truck might have come with. And boy are the wheels and 
tires heavier than the car tires that were on there. (Could that cause 
a problem?)

The ride height is going to be 2 inches taller than it is now, and 
within a half-inch of what it would be with the bias tires. And I think 
will be happy! For now I have dispensed with hubcaps and have painted 
the wheels Fire Engine Red. The truck is Galway Green and Cream. So sue 
me! 
haveTW none of this cost very much. At one point I was looking at 
having custom wheels made. I got lost in all the metrics of setback, 
etc. My 1621 wheels, BTW, have the same setback as the original 15 
wheels. They just stiick out a bit more on the outside.

I will post pictures next week when I pick the tires up from being 
mounted and get some new lug nuts. The ones I have now are really 
chewed up

Re: [old-chevy-truck] Correct OEM Wheels for 58 Apache?

2013-01-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
After much research:

I put 16-inch wheels on my 59 3200, fitted with LT215/85R16 radials. This 
aspect ratio looks more like the original bias ply and the ride height is 
perfect.   There did not appear to be a suitable size radial that fit 15in 
wheels, and gave the correct ride height, except maybe one available only in 
Canada, which I never even really located.  

My 16in wheels are from early 1990's GM vans and they cost me no more than than 
$50-60 each used online including shipping.   I tried to find them at 
Pick-A-Part but to no avail.  They are very heavy duty and look 100% old 
school.  I did not re-fit the hubcaps, because, well, my truck is a working 
girl and who needs 'em?The wheels look great painted fire engine red and 
the ride height is nice and tall as GM intended it to be.  It rides very 
smoothly, and does not know what a speed bump is.  And the best part is I can 
now actually haul stuff in the truck because the tires are LT light truck 
rather than P passenger.

Took me a bit of time and energy, but the results are great and it was not too 
expensive.

=-=-=jt



On Jan 29, 2013, at 2:45 PM, Dan Lovell dan_lov...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Looking for an inexpensive way to get my 58 Apache back to spec tires and 
 wheels.
 Would be great to run across an old set of originals.. I've looked and no 
 luck yet.
 
 Any aftermarket that are close? And I was thinking 15x8 but below someone 
 mentioned 7 or 7.5
 Whitewall tires would be nice too but I'm wanting this thing to drive right, 
 more than just looks.
 
 Any help appreciated!
 
 
 From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Sunday, August 19, 2012 1:57 AM
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Finally -- new wheels and real, manly, TRUCK 
 TIRES!
 
 Nate, thanks for the vote of confidence!
 
 You and a couple of others here inspired me to do my homework.  AFTER I got 
 B-S-'ed by the lying-sack-of-shirt guy at Just Tires, and threw $400 down the 
 crapper, I started reading up on tires and wheels. 
 
 It occurred to me, when I was hauling an entire kitchen of tile and sacks of 
 cement down from the Valley on tires that were meant for a Mercury Marauder 
 or a Lincoln Town Car,  that I was ACTUALLY USING IT AS A TRUCK and might be 
 endangering myself and others.
 
 On Aug 18, 2012, at 10:46 PM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:
 
  
  Jonas ;
  
  It sounds to me like you're going to be well pleased .
  
  Few bother to sort out the correct wheels  tires , this means their truck 
  looks cool but drives like crap , after a few years they dump it and get 
  another project
  
  These old trucks are extremely nice drivers in spite of no power steering , 
  this is no accident ! GM knew exactly what they were doing .
  
  -Nate
  Jonas wrote :
  
   I think I might have solved the wheel tire and ride-height problem on my 
   59 3200. Or at least I have taken a step, maybe a gamble.
   
   I found some very solid steel wheels from a 1990's Chevy van or pickup. 
   They are 16 and the wheel-industry part number appears to be 1621. The 
   wheels fit the truck perfectly. I can now stop driving on those car tires 
   (225/75R15) which were way too fat and too low and not properly load 
   rated. These wheels will sport LT215/85R16 tires, which are thinner and 
   taller and much closer to the original 7.0 or 7.5x15 bias ply that the 
   truck might have come with. And boy are the wheels and tires heavier than 
   the car tires that were on there. (Could that cause a problem?)
   
   The ride height is going to be 2 inches taller than it is now, and within 
   a half-inch of what it would be with the bias tires. And I think will be 
   happy! For now I have dispensed with hubcaps and have painted the wheels 
   Fire Engine Red. The truck is Galway Green and Cream. So sue me! 
   haveTW none of this cost very much. At one point I was looking at having 
   custom wheels made. I got lost in all the metrics of setback, etc. My 
   1621 wheels, BTW, have the same setback as the original 15 wheels. They 
   just stiick out a bit more on the outside.
   
   I will post pictures next week when I pick the tires up from being 
   mounted and get some new lug nuts. The ones I have now are really chewed 
   up.
   
   Thanks for listening. Any comments? Am I creating a monster?
   
   jonas
   
   
  
  
  
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
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[old-chevy-truck] Re: [Oletrucks] 261 engine near greeley

2013-01-24 Thread Jonas Thaler
FWIW I kick myself a little bit for not buying a good 261 for $200 when I was 
deciding what to do with my 1959 3200.  I ended up rebuilding a 1962 235 car 
engine.  That was about 2006.  I have to say that, despite kicking myself for 
being too lazy to drive 50miles to pick up the engine, my 235 is AWESOME.
Strong and dependable.  What an amazing industrial machine.  I really think the 
6cyl gas engines of its generation were beautiful and historic and I'm proud to 
drive around with it.Next truck I will try and utilize a 261 but if anyone 
ever tries to get my 235 they are going to have to pry it out of my cold dead 
claws!






On Jan 24, 2013, at 6:50 AM, Rick Kremer kremer...@aol.com wrote:

 Durwood,
 
 Way to look out for your fellow truckers.  Nice Job!  I scored a 261 off
 craigslist a few years back and am just waiting for the right truck to drop it
 into.  With a camaro t5 behind it, it should be alot of fun to drive.
 
 Rick
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Durwood B. Darbin dhckdk...@hotmail.com
 To: Oletrucks list oletru...@autox.team.net; yahoo group
 old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com; Old Chevy Suburban list
 old-burb-c...@yahoogroups.com
 Sent: Wed, Jan 23, 2013 8:54 pm
 Subject: [Oletrucks] 261 engine near greeley
 
 
 Hello ole truckers. I have located another 261 engine in a truck at a
 junkyard
 ear Greeley Colorado.  If you want it, I will direct you to the exact vehicle
 ut you have to take it out.  I can be there for moral support but I can't
 elp cuz I'm still healing from rotator cuff repair.  If you want it then ping
 e at dhckdkcsk (at) hotmail.com and put 'Greeley 261' in the subject line.
 MMKay??  The last one cost me $250 and no core charge but you would have to
 ake the deal, just don't tell the owner that it is a 261.  ;-)
 Durwood @ TESRWNN
 51 Chevy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
 52 Burb
 54 Jimmy 1/2 ton Deluxe 5 window
 __
 oletru...@autox.team.net
 onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 uggested annual donation  $11.47
 rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
 orums: http://www.team.net/forums
 nsubscribe/Manage:
 http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/oletrucks/kremer...@aol.com
 ___
 
 oletru...@autox.team.net
 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation  $11.47
 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
 Unsubscribe/Manage: 
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[old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal

2012-11-12 Thread Jonas Thaler
I'd like to complain about shoddily-vulcanized after-market accelerator pedals. 
 I just replaced one that had spooned into a concave shape from driving about 
100 miles.   I just replaced it with another crap one. (sad)  The [problem is 
the metal spine was made with metal that's just TOO THIN.  I wish I had saved 
my old worn-out one.  Maybe I could have had it re-vulcanized.

I have a 59 3200.  Anyone else run into this pathetic problem?

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal

2012-11-12 Thread Jonas Thaler
I was going to bolt a stiff piece of steel on the back.   And try to use a low 
profile pan head screw that doesnt look too bad.  Not much of a plater am I!
(Although please explain!  Sounds interesting.)  And I will scour junkyards and 
find a real old strong one that might or not need vulcanizing.



On Nov 12, 2012, at 5:10 PM, harley davidson harley_dad...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Can you plate the back of it to stiffen it up ?
  Wolf
 
 --- On Mon, 11/12/12, Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com wrote:
 
 From: Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Replacement Accelerator pedal
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Date: Monday, November 12, 2012, 7:03 PM
 
  
 
 I'd like to complain about shoddily-vulcanized after-market accelerator 
 pedals. I just replaced one that had spooned into a concave shape from 
 driving about 100 miles. I just replaced it with another crap one. (sad) The 
 [problem is the metal spine was made with metal that's just TOO THIN. I wish 
 I had saved my old worn-out one. Maybe I could have had it re-vulcanized.
 
 I have a 59 3200. Anyone else run into this pathetic problem?
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] My trip to St. Joe part 3

2012-10-21 Thread Jonas Thaler
James, I loved your story.  It could be expanded into a novel!  The kind I 
would enjoy reading because it reminds me so much of the day-to-day adventures 
of my own life.  These old trucks and the way they evolve tell stories about 
the people behind the wheel. 

Keep on sharing!



On Oct 21, 2012, at 9:47 AM, James Tye dazys...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 
 Just to give some more background on this truck, my dad bought it in 1960 
 when I was 2.  It had 29000 miles on it then.  He took it to Reno, NV from 
 Jamesport, MO.  Since then it has been on numerous trips, about 40 miles 
 woth.  It has had a few engines and transmissions and a rear end out of a 57 
 Chevy van.  We have pictures of it inside the tree at Yosimite, on the 
 continental divide, etc.  Once in 1968 it pulled a trailer from Reno to 
 Jamsport, MO with mom driving as dad drove a Ford 2 ton ahead with a trailer 
 and that was a move.  So this has always been a well cared for work truck.
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question - FIXED! LOL

2012-09-08 Thread Jonas Thaler
Are you saying that you tightened down the spring or took the spring off and 
re-installed it tighter?

On Sep 8, 2012, at 10:51 AM, Roy rmark...@cox.net wrote:

 I am constantly reminded that you can fix things faster if you get your head 
 out of your butt. The symptoms of my problem suggested a fast idle issue. 
 However, what it was is that when I put the new carby in, there was just 
 enough binding so that when slowly releasing the pedal, the engine stayed at 
 a fast idle but if you tapped the pedal, it gave the spring just enough 
 extra momentum to completely seat the idle screw. Boy is my face red...LOL
 
 Roy
 '51 3600
 The Sleepy Dragon
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: rmark...@cox.net 
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Cc: Allen Jones 
 Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:43 AM
 Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question
 
 The engine is a 216. The carbs are Carter 964S's. there is a spring that 
 winds around the choke shaft that I think provides a counterbalance kinda 
 like a window sash weight. I believe that choking is only required at start 
 up and if you get a rich enough mix with one it should work well and my 
 engine starts first time every time winter and summer. I would like to fix my 
 problem, of course, but what I am really trying to do is understand heow the 
 fast idle circuit works. My guess is that pulling the choke causes the 
 hi-speed idle to engage. Then, after the engine warms up and the choke is 
 pushed in, a tap on the accelerator disengages the hi-speed idle. In my case 
 somehow the hi-speed idle arm engages on its own without pulling on the choke 
 but a tap on the accelerater disengages it . That is why I am thinking about 
 that spring. However, everything I have said here is either a guess, a 
 supposition, or an assumption.
 
 Roy
 
  Allen Jones jone...@myuw.net wrote: 
  I have dual carbs too. What model carbs do you have? Rochester B's, 
  Carters? Knowing would help. You say they are manual (cable) but you 
  mention a choke spring? Meaning automatic? I'm assuming this is on an I6? 
  You have to have the choke cable go to BOTH carbs to get both chokes to 
  operate properly, if they are indeed manual. I cabled my chokes in series 
  and it works pretty well.
  
  
  
  Allen
  
  '50 5100
  
  
  
  
  From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on 
  behalf of rmark...@cox.net [rmark...@cox.net]
  Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 6:35 AM
  To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
  Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question
  
  
  
  I need to understand how fast idle works. Here is my issue. I hav a dual 
  carb
  set up and had to replace one. I used one that I rebuilt. Everything works 
  very
  weel except fast idle. When I am driving the truck and come to a stop, it 
  is in
  fast idle and I have to tap the accelerator to kick it down. Clearly I did
  something wrong in my re-build but to fix it I need to understand how it is
  supposed to work. I can see it is tied to the choke operation. It is a 
  manual
  choke and the carb in question does not have a choke cable to it, the other 
  one
  does. I followed the instructions on adjusting fast idle and it appears to 
  be
  set right. I am wondering if I wound the choke spring too tight or maybe not
  tight enough. So..have I provided enough to get a little education/help?
  
  Thanks,
  Roy
  '51
  
  
  
  
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
  
  
  
  
  
  Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
  
  To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), 
  to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
  
  
  
 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question - FIXED! LOL

2012-09-08 Thread Jonas Thaler
Ahh.Good work.   I live for that moment when you discover how to fix 
something like that.


On Sep 8, 2012, at 1:36 PM, rmark...@cox.net wrote:

 I did tighten the spring a little but the real fix was to eliminate the 
 binding in the linkages.
 
 Roy
 
  Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com wrote: 
  Are you saying that you tightened down the spring or took the spring off 
  and re-installed it tighter?
  
  On Sep 8, 2012, at 10:51 AM, Roy rmark...@cox.net wrote:
  
   I am constantly reminded that you can fix things faster if you get your 
   head out of your butt. The symptoms of my problem suggested a fast idle 
   issue. However, what it was is that when I put the new carby in, there 
   was just enough binding so that when slowly releasing the pedal, the 
   engine stayed at a fast idle but if you tapped the pedal, it gave the 
   spring just enough extra momentum to completely seat the idle screw. Boy 
   is my face red...LOL
   
   Roy
   '51 3600
   The Sleepy Dragon
   
   - Original Message - 
   From: rmark...@cox.net 
   To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
   Cc: Allen Jones 
   Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 11:43 AM
   Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question
   
   The engine is a 216. The carbs are Carter 964S's. there is a spring that 
   winds around the choke shaft that I think provides a counterbalance kinda 
   like a window sash weight. I believe that choking is only required at 
   start up and if you get a rich enough mix with one it should work well 
   and my engine starts first time every time winter and summer. I would 
   like to fix my problem, of course, but what I am really trying to do is 
   understand heow the fast idle circuit works. My guess is that pulling the 
   choke causes the hi-speed idle to engage. Then, after the engine warms up 
   and the choke is pushed in, a tap on the accelerator disengages the 
   hi-speed idle. In my case somehow the hi-speed idle arm engages on its 
   own without pulling on the choke but a tap on the accelerater disengages 
   it . That is why I am thinking about that spring. However, everything I 
   have said here is either a guess, a supposition, or an assumption.
   
   Roy
   
    Allen Jones jone...@myuw.net wrote: 
I have dual carbs too. What model carbs do you have? Rochester B's, 
Carters? Knowing would help. You say they are manual (cable) but you 
mention a choke spring? Meaning automatic? I'm assuming this is on an 
I6? You have to have the choke cable go to BOTH carbs to get both 
chokes to operate properly, if they are indeed manual. I cabled my 
chokes in series and it works pretty well.



Allen

'50 5100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] 
on behalf of rmark...@cox.net [rmark...@cox.net]
Sent: Saturday, September 08, 2012 6:35 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Carby Question



I need to understand how fast idle works. Here is my issue. I hav a 
dual carb
set up and had to replace one. I used one that I rebuilt. Everything 
works very
weel except fast idle. When I am driving the truck and come to a stop, 
it is in
fast idle and I have to tap the accelerator to kick it down. Clearly 
I did
something wrong in my re-build but to fix it I need to understand how 
it is
supposed to work. I can see it is tied to the choke operation. It is a 
manual
choke and the carb in question does not have a choke cable to it, the 
other one
does. I followed the instructions on adjusting fast idle and it appears 
to be
set right. I am wondering if I wound the choke spring too tight or 
maybe not
tight enough. So..have I provided enough to get a little education/help?

Thanks,
Roy
'51





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Clutch and pressure plate

2012-09-07 Thread Jonas Thaler
I guess turning the truck upside down (like a giant rotisserie) is not an 
option.  Never mind, that wasn't funny…



On Sep 7, 2012, at 4:45 PM, James Tye dazys...@yahoo.com wrote:

 I got my flyweel replaced.  With the engine in place, it's quite a chore but 
 I got it done.  Now I need a trick.  The manual shows the engine upside down 
 to replace this stuff.  Working from underneath, when the pressure plate 
 falls on you, it hurts.  How do you hold the clutch in place while you put 
 the pressure plate in its place, until you can center the clutch with the 
 centering tool?
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Master Cylinder problems

2012-08-26 Thread Jonas Thaler
When this happened to me it was my master cylinder.  It was completely shot.  
It was amazing that the truck stopped at all.  Testament to the great simple 
engineering of old American trucks.  Anyway, we stuck in a rebuilt one and it 
bled up and got firm right away and now it stops on a (very large and slow) 
dime.  So, as obvious as this probably sounds,  I guess it pays to check the 
integrity of each individual component.


On Aug 26, 2012, at 2:36 PM, hwtrimbl hwtrim...@comcast.net wrote:

 I have '51 3600 with very low brake pedal. First push goes almost all the way 
 to floor but after I pump a few times I have good brake pedal. I have 
 recently put a new kit in master cylinder with no luck. Master cylinder has 
 been sleeved before so may have excess wear. I bench bled before installation 
 and have bled all the wheel cylinders.
 
 Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. If I need a new MC anyone have any 
 thoughts on where.
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Master Cylinder problems

2012-08-26 Thread Jonas Thaler
I think we got the rebuilt cylinder at NAPA.



On Aug 26, 2012, at 6:37 PM, Deve Krehbiel dkrehb...@cox.net wrote:

 When I install a master cylinder in these trucks, I have a small tubing
 setup that pushes brake fluid into the second stage of the cylinder to help
 prime the system. So, I fill the cylinder, attach the cutoff brake line that
 goes from the output of the cylinder BACK into the fill hole, pump it
 several times. This helps bleed the air out of the bottom part of the
 cylinder before bleeding the system. An old trick I learned from an old
 timer who knew his stuff. Anyone else do this?
 
 Deve
 www.speedprint.com/Deves50
 
 -Original Message-
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Jonas Thaler
 Sent: Sunday, August 26, 2012 6:23 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Master Cylinder problems
 
 When this happened to me it was my master cylinder. It was completely shot.
 It was amazing that the truck stopped at all. Testament to the great simple
 engineering of old American trucks. Anyway, we stuck in a rebuilt one and
 it bled up and got firm right away and now it stops on a (very large and
 slow) dime. So, as obvious as this probably sounds, I guess it pays to
 check the integrity of each individual component.
 
 On Aug 26, 2012, at 2:36 PM, hwtrimbl hwtrim...@comcast.net wrote:
 
  I have '51 3600 with very low brake pedal. First push goes almost all the
 way to floor but after I pump a few times I have good brake pedal. I have
 recently put a new kit in master cylinder with no luck. Master cylinder has
 been sleeved before so may have excess wear. I bench bled before
 installation and have bled all the wheel cylinders.
  
  Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. If I need a new MC anyone have
 any thoughts on where.
  
  
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
 To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email),
 to: old-chevy-truck-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.comYahoo! Groups Links
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.

2012-08-19 Thread Jonas Thaler
That fire truck is a beauty!   And what a monument to both small town history 
in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular.  Me want one too!

The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending fuel 
and does the carb then spray little sprays of atomized gas into its own 
throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile directly into the 
carburetor!



On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, tonydsny t...@tonyseideman.com wrote:

 In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and promptly 
 parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually untouched.
 
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/
 
 I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently 
 decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine has 
 locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in the 
 Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned relatively easy 
 once the compression was released.
 
 Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an Optima 
 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, sanding and 
 gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the plugs out was a 
 significant achievement for me. But I've got the original manual and a book 
 on Chevy restoration. 
 
 What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase the 
 chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in?
 
 Is it a good idea to use startup fluid?
 
 Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? 
 
 Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly spots. 
 Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual paint job? I 
 don't like the measles look, but better that than more corrosion.
 
 Here are some more shots of the mechanicals:
 http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/
 
 Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it move, 
 push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound doorstop would 
 have been a bit much.
 
 Tony Seideman
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Engine Restoration.

2012-08-19 Thread Jonas Thaler
I just meant that if you are priming the engine by pouring gas directly down 
the carb throat or spraying in starter fluid (and we have all done those 
things) there is a risk of a spark catching the volatile vapor where it isn't 
supposed to and harming the owner rather badly.  They say to pour the gas from 
a small paper cup rather than pour from a gas can, so you aren't dangling a 
bomb in front of your own face.  That's all I meant by that.

jt





On Aug 19, 2012, at 12:01 PM, tonydsny t...@tonyseideman.com wrote:

 Thanks so much for the response.
 
 It was actually a training truck; never used for fires in my community. They 
 only used it for a few years. Then they put it on ebay. I promised my wife my 
 limit was $1,000. I won it for $2,000. Haven't heard the end of that one yet.
 
 Just a quick question: what's wrong with putting a volatile into the carb? 
 Doesn't it already use one--gasoline?
 
 Tony Seideman
 
 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonas Thaler jonasthaler@... wrote:
 
  That fire truck is a beauty! And what a monument to both small town history 
  in general and fire-fighting heroism in particular. Me want one too!
  
  The only things I might suggest are to check if the fuel pump is sending 
  fuel and does the carb then spray little sprays of atomized gas into its 
  own throat? And please be careful when you put anything volatile directly 
  into the carburetor!
  
  
  
  On Aug 19, 2012, at 8:21 AM, tonydsny tony@... wrote:
  
   In 2005, I purchased a 1948 Chevy Loadmaster/Boyer Fire Truck and 
   promptly parked it in my garage, where it has stayed since, virtually 
   untouched.
   
   http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157630956792770/
   
   I was going to wait until I could get it fully restored, but I recently 
   decided that was disrespectful to the machine. I was concerned the engine 
   has locked because it sat for so long, but, on the advice of people in 
   the Stovebolt group, yesterday I pulled the plugs and it turned 
   relatively easy once the compression was released.
   
   Because the battery was very, exceedingly, totally dead, I ordered an 
   Optima 6V, which will be arriving the 22nd. Today I'm wire brushing, 
   sanding and gapping the plugs. I am definitely not a car guy; getting the 
   plugs out was a significant achievement for me. But I've got the original 
   manual and a book on Chevy restoration. 
   
   What other simple things can I do as an inexperienced person to increase 
   the chance of the truck actually starting when I put the battery in?
   
   Is it a good idea to use startup fluid?
   
   Should I hit the carb with a bunch of Gunk remover? 
   
   Also, there isn't a lot of rust on the body, but there are some ugly 
   spots. Should I sand them down and put primer as a prep for the actual 
   paint job? I don't like the measles look, but better that than more 
   corrosion.
   
   Here are some more shots of the mechanicals:
   http://www.flickr.com/photos/37075636@N04/sets/72157631115324428/
   
   Can't tell you how good it felt to tug on the flywheel, seem to feel it 
   move, push, and have it rotate. Wow. Having a 25-foot, 3,000 pound 
   doorstop would have been a bit much.
   
   Tony Seideman
   
   
  
  
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 



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[old-chevy-truck] Finally -- new wheels and real, manly, TRUCK TIRES!

2012-08-18 Thread Jonas Thaler
I  think I might have solved the wheel tire and ride-height problem on my 59 
3200. Or at least I have taken a step, maybe a gamble.

I found some very solid steel wheels from a 1990's Chevy van or pickup. They 
are 16 and the wheel-industry part number appears to be 1621. The wheels fit 
the truck perfectly. I can now stop driving on those car tires (225/75R15) 
which were way too fat and too low and not properly load rated. These wheels 
will sport LT215/85R16 tires, which are thinner and taller and much closer to 
the original 7.0 or 7.5x15 bias ply that the truck might have come with. And 
boy are the wheels and tires heavier than the car tires that were on there.  
(Could that cause a problem?)

The ride height is going to be 2 inches taller than it is now, and within a 
half-inch of what it would be with the bias tires. And I think will be happy! 
For now I have dispensed with hubcaps and have painted the wheels Fire Engine 
Red. The truck is Galway Green and Cream. So sue me! 
haveTW none of this cost very much. At one point I was looking at having custom 
wheels made. I got lost in all the metrics of setback, etc. My 1621 wheels, 
BTW, have the same setback as the original 15 wheels. They just stiick out a 
bit more on the outside.

I will post pictures next week when I pick the tires up from being mounted and 
get some new lug nuts. The ones I have now are really chewed up.

Thanks for listening. Any comments? Am I creating a monster?

jonas

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Finally -- new wheels and real, manly, TRUCK TIRES!

2012-08-18 Thread Jonas Thaler
Nate, thanks for the vote of confidence!

You and a couple of others here inspired me to do my homework.  AFTER I got 
B-S-'ed by the lying-sack-of-shirt guy at Just Tires, and threw $400 down the 
crapper, I started reading up on tires and wheels. 

It occurred to me, when I was hauling an entire kitchen of tile and sacks of 
cement down from the Valley on tires that were meant for a Mercury Marauder or 
a Lincoln Town Car,  that I was ACTUALLY USING IT AS A TRUCK and might be 
endangering myself and others.



 






On Aug 18, 2012, at 10:46 PM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 Jonas ;
 
 It sounds to me like you're going to be well pleased .
 
 Few bother to sort out the correct wheels  tires , this means their truck 
 looks cool but drives like crap , after a few years they dump it and get 
 another project
 
 These old trucks are extremely nice drivers in spite of no power steering , 
 this is no accident ! GM knew exactly what they were doing .
 
 -Nate
 Jonas wrote :
 
  I think I might have solved the wheel tire and ride-height problem on my 59 
  3200. Or at least I have taken a step, maybe a gamble.
  
  I found some very solid steel wheels from a 1990's Chevy van or pickup. 
  They are 16 and the wheel-industry part number appears to be 1621. The 
  wheels fit the truck perfectly. I can now stop driving on those car tires 
  (225/75R15) which were way too fat and too low and not properly load rated. 
  These wheels will sport LT215/85R16 tires, which are thinner and taller and 
  much closer to the original 7.0 or 7.5x15 bias ply that the truck might 
  have come with. And boy are the wheels and tires heavier than the car tires 
  that were on there. (Could that cause a problem?)
  
  The ride height is going to be 2 inches taller than it is now, and within a 
  half-inch of what it would be with the bias tires. And I think will be 
  happy! For now I have dispensed with hubcaps and have painted the wheels 
  Fire Engine Red. The truck is Galway Green and Cream. So sue me! 
  haveTW none of this cost very much. At one point I was looking at having 
  custom wheels made. I got lost in all the metrics of setback, etc. My 1621 
  wheels, BTW, have the same setback as the original 15 wheels. They just 
  stiick out a bit more on the outside.
  
  I will post pictures next week when I pick the tires up from being mounted 
  and get some new lug nuts. The ones I have now are really chewed up.
  
  Thanks for listening. Any comments? Am I creating a monster?
  
  jonas
  
  
 
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition

2012-07-19 Thread Jonas Thaler
I put it on my 59 3200 235 and it always starts right up with 4 light pumps of 
the gas pedal and one tap of the floor starter and runs smooth as a top.  


On Jul 19, 2012, at 3:29 PM, Deve Krehbiel wrote:

 Are you happy with Langdon's HEI? I am thinking of going that route too.
 
 Thx Allen!
 
 Deve
 www.speedprint.com/Deves50
 
 -Original Message-
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Allen Jones
 Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 10:44 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition
 
 Correct, not Pertronix. It's HEI and that will be set way different than
 the stock distributor with breakerless points (Pertronix). The ball is not
 necessarily at 5 degrees. Stock 49 to 52 are 5 degrees, 53 is 2 degrees.
 And who knows what has been installed in between. I have Langdon's HEI in
 my 6 and have it at about 10 degrees BTDC as well. You can also use the
 knock (ping) method to adjust the timing (which is what I did and still lit
 back on 10 degrees). Sound like you have it pretty close. I don't have my
 HEI plugs set to 0.070, something less but more than 0.040. Langdon's
 instructions has the specs.
 
 Allen
 
 '50 3100
 
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com [old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] on
 behalf of rmark...@cox.net [rmark...@cox.net]
 Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 5:44 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Cc: Nate
 Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: timing with electronic ignition
 
 Nate...not Pertronix. I had a Pertronix but went all the way up to HEI. Gaps
 are at .70. I started to use your advance till it pings but never got there.
 I stopped at 10 BTDC basically afraid to go any farther. However, it looks
 like Bob is at 20 - the original 5 or 6 (BB) plus 15.
 
 Roy
 
  Nate vwna...@yahoo.commailto:vwnate1%40yahoo.com wrote:
 
  The timing remains the same , ball on pointer @ idle speed of 700 RPM os
 less , check to insure there is NO vacuum signal to the dist. @ idle before
 you adjust it .
 
  Don't forget to open up those plug gaps to .040 to get the full advantage
 of the Pertronix .
 
  -Nate
  Roy wrote:
  
   I put Tom Langdon's HEI ignition on my 216 and it runs very well.
 However, I am just curious if anyone else has done the same and if you have,
 what do you have your timing set at? Mine is 10 degrees BTDC.
  
   Thanks,
   Roy
   '51 3600
   The Sleepy Dragon
  
 
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Engine Rebuild - 58 Apache - 235 6 cyl

2012-07-12 Thread Jonas Thaler
I had the same experience with my 59.  All I can say is you will thank yourself 
later for spending the time and/or money to go through (or have someone go 
through) that engine and transmission (and all accessory systems, rear end, 
brakes etc).   Also the front end, stabilizers, tie rod ends, etc suspension 
stuff.   With what I consider a minimum of attention, these trucks really know 
how to start life over again at 50+.  My truck is such a pleasure to drive and 
I use it all the time to pickup materials from Home Depot.  I don't baby it and 
it performs reliably.  The 235 does not use very much gas, either.   Mine is 
far from a show truck, but I also don't abuse it and try and keep it 
cosmetically appealing.

It was an investment, but I get a lot of pleasure from it.  Much of that was 
because I had the patience (for once in my life) to do the mechanicals right.

There are people who can advise you about where to draw the line with your 
engine surgery, but my experience was that I did everything, everything now 
works and I'm glad I did.

If you can swing it, that truck is worth it!





On Jul 12, 2012, at 9:42 AM, Dan Lovell wrote:

 Hello all,
  
 I acquired a 58 Chevy Apache last summer and haven't been able to get it to 
 run. I come to find out its the engine: compression is shot, the first 3 
 cylinders measured 40 psi, 70 psi, 40 psi... we didn't continue past that. 
 I'm told it's either the rings or the head gasket.
  
 Will this require a full engine rebuild?
 Is this a project that a dedicated do it yourselfer can pull off?
 What is the best guide for rebuilding this engine, and any tidbits of advice 
 you can offer?
  
 Thanks to all who post on this group, it's most helpful.
  
 Dan
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Star iron

2012-07-03 Thread Jonas Thaler
I can do it, but I have to remember to pull my shins and elbows  and my nose 
out of the way.  

On Jul 3, 2012, at 8:56 AM, Nate wrote:

 
 Me , anyway .
 
 =8-) .
 
 -Nate
 Steve Asked :
 
 After all, who remembers how to spin a 4-way lug wrench, anyway?
 
 Steve
 1952 3600
 1953 3100
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Brake Bleeder Wrenches

2012-07-02 Thread Jonas Thaler
Aaargh!  Something  is going on with tool manufacturing and reducing stocks.  I 
tried to get one of those big X-shaped lug nut wrenches with a different size 
wrench on each end.  None of  the local parts stores in my LA neighborhood had 
one.  A few of the people never heard of them.  Orchard Supply Hardware had one 
for $7, but that took me a while!


On Jul 2, 2012, at 10:58 AM, Nate wrote:

 
 WTH ?? .
 
 I can't find them anywhere ~I've tried Pep Boys , Orrielly's , Ohs , Harbor 
 Freight , Sears , on and on
 
 NO ONE even knows what this once important tool is .
 
 I need some in 5/16  1/4 size , used is fine , I guess it's back to the 
 Long Beach Swap meet time again as I'm not paying $45 off the Tool Truck for 
 one .
 
 -Nate
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question

2012-02-23 Thread Jonas Thaler
I would risk Extreme Internet Punishment to drive a truck like that around!

jt


On Feb 23, 2012, at 6:16 AM, Hanlon, Bill wrote:

 Got it Nate!
 
 So one could drop a STOCK Dodge Hemi V8 into one's AD pickup and remain 
 within the letter of the law.
 
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Nate
 Sent: Wednesday, February 22, 2012 10:37 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 3/4T Bed Question
 
 Yes it would ;
 
 It just wouldn't be original nor restored
 
 You weisenheimer ! =8-) .
 
 -Nate
 Wise Guy Bill wrote:
 
  Gee Steve, it wouldn't be stock.
 
  
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine Stand Needed

2012-01-17 Thread Jonas Thaler
I bought an anvil from Harbor Fright that I liked.  But I guess it's hard to 
screw up an anvil!



On Jan 17, 2012, at 5:48 PM, Kelsey Farrell wrote:

 That's why I call it Harbor Fright...
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: Lonny 
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2012 3:50 PM
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine Stand Needed
 
 No one in their right mind would recommend buying anything from Harbor 
 Freight. 99.% of the crap they sell is nothing but cheap, 
 foreign-made TRASH.
 
 ===
 Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
 (Email Guard: 9.0.0.898, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.19070)
 http://www.pctools.com
 ===
 
 ===
 Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found.
 (Email Guard: 9.0.0.898, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.19070)
 http://www.pctools.com/
 ===
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Quite a Moment

2011-11-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
I have to admit, I used up a couple of Kleenexes to read this story.

Thanks for sharing it.



On Nov 29, 2011, at 6:28 AM, Arizona Real Estate wrote:

 Your Dad must have instilled a sense of adventure and humor in you; because  
 your payback to him is priceless.  Well done.
 
 
 From: fahrbach51 mfahrb...@hughes.net
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com 
 Sent: Monday, November 28, 2011 9:10 PM
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Quite a Moment
 
 Sorry to bore any of you with a heartfelt story, but my Dad just turned 93 a 
 few days ago.  He suffered a stroke in 1994, which impacted his vision such 
 that he could no longer drive.  He spent his life taking care of everyone 
 else, and overnight became dependent on others to get him around.  It was, 
 and remains, a very tough pill for him to swallow.  The other day, I offered 
 to give him a ride in my '51 3600.  He beamed, and was so excited to ride 
 within a cab filled with so many reminders of earlier days.  You should have 
 seen the grin. I turned off the highway, onto a dirt country road seldom 
 traveled, and asked him if he wanted to take it for a drive. He asked if I 
 was sure, and I said I had never been more so.  I ran around to the passenger 
 side, he slid across before I could change my mind.  He needed no 
 instruction, just put it in gear, let out the clutch without any throttle, 
 and slowly stepped on the gas.  It wasn't but a few minutes
 and we were in 4th, and I was telling him he should slow down.  I do not have 
 the words to describe the look on his face, for those moments he controlled 
 the big wheel and relived so many memories.  Man, this baby sure runs good 
 he said, over and over. It was the best time he and I have EVER spent 
 together, and will remain the best memory I will ever have of this truck.  If 
 you would like to see a short video of a man in his element, email me and 
 I'll send you a clip.  Thanks for listening.
 
 Mike Fahrbach
 1951 3600 
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
 To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Quite a Moment

2011-11-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
Well, that explains why you are working so hard to preserve the Frontier Beige 
paint job that your father did on your truck!  I would not remove even one bit 
of overspray.  It's a wonderful memorial that you can drive and enjoy.

jt





On Nov 29, 2011, at 9:22 AM, G. Kelly wrote:

 Mike,
 
 Your story really touched my heart. What I wouldn't give to be able to do 
 the same with my Father and have him see the special care I've given his old 
 work truck. He passed on August 1, 1999 after 89 years of hard work. All 
 the mechanic tools he left in the truck are still in there just waiting for 
 some farmer to call him asking for help. Even the walking cane I gave him 
 is still under the seat.
 
 Garnet
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: fahrbach51
 
 Sorry to bore any of you with a heartfelt story, but my Dad just turned 93 a 
 few days ago. He suffered a stroke in 1994, which impacted his vision such 
 that he could no longer drive. He spent his life taking care of everyone 
 else, and overnight became dependent on others to get him around. It was, 
 and remains, a very tough pill for him to swallow. The other day, I offered 
 to give him a ride in my '51 3600. He beamed, and was so excited to ride 
 within a cab filled with so many reminders of earlier days. You should have 
 seen the grin. I turned off the highway, onto a dirt country road seldom 
 traveled, and asked him if he wanted to take it for a drive. He asked if I 
 was sure, and I said I had never been more so. I ran around to the 
 passenger side, he slid across before I could change my mind. He needed no 
 instruction, just put it in gear, let out the clutch without any throttle, 
 and slowly stepped on the gas. It wasn't but a few minutes and we were in 
 4th, and I was telling him he should slow down. I do not have the words to 
 describe the look on his face, for those moments he controlled the big wheel 
 and relived so many memories. Man, this baby sure runs good he said, over 
 and over. It was the best time he and I have EVER spent together, and will 
 remain the best memory I will ever have of this truck. If you would like to 
 see a short video of a man in his element, email me and I'll send you a 
 clip. Thanks for listening.
 
 Mike Fahrbach
 1951 3600
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Cooper Tires

2011-11-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
For those of us pesky 15 Task Force stalwarts, Cooper has hardly any 15  LT 
tires that I could see.  Other manufacturers do.


Jonas Thaler

On Nov 29, 2011, at 4:24 PM, twowheeler63 twowheele...@yahoo.com wrote:

 Bruce, I can't speak for their LT tires, but I'm very satisfied with them for 
 my car. The ones I buy are USA made, and that means a lot to me.
 
 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Bruce Ioppini dalianvan@... wrote:
 
  Hey guys, please help me out!! Are Cooper LT tires any good??? Thanks, Bruce
 
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Cooper Tires

2011-11-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
Jeez if most tires are made in China, how are things these days in Akron, Ohio? 
 I grew up around there.   I guess it's the same in all the manufacturing 
cities.  A major readjustment.

Jonas Thaler

On Nov 29, 2011, at 6:26 PM, Antonio R. Tijerino anto...@tijerino.net wrote:

 My daily driver is a Toyota Landcruiser and I just bought a set of Cooper
 Discoverer A/T for about $700 the set and I am very satisfied with them. I
 also agree, I will never buy tires made in china and these are made in the
 US.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Antonio 
 
 '53 3100
 
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of twowheeler63
 Sent: Tuesday, November 29, 2011 5:25 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Cooper Tires
 
 Bruce, I can't speak for their LT tires, but I'm very satisfied with them
 for my car. The ones I buy are USA made, and that means a lot to me.
 
 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com , Bruce Ioppini dalianvan@...
 wrote:
 
  Hey guys, please help me out!! Are Cooper LT tires any good??? Thanks,
 Bruce
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 15 Tire Size Question

2011-11-27 Thread Jonas Thaler
I will post some current pics as soon as i get home.  It's a 59 3200 Fleetside 
with a 235...  Galway Green with a Creme side spear.

Jonas Thaler

On Nov 27, 2011, at 3:27 PM, G. Kelly gke...@wolfenet.com wrote:

 Jonas,
 
  I did just figure out how to look at the pictures on iPad in the relative
  quiet of Dion's Pizza in Albuquerque, NM.
 
 I've been through there a few times.
 
  You 59 step side is awesome. I love that color...
 
 It is painted the original Frontier Biege. My Father repainted it the same 
 color sometime in the mid 1970s. There is some over spray in a few odd 
 places which were difficult to mask off. But after all it was a country 
 repair-shop paint job on a working truck. Who's gonna bitch? I am 
 surprised that the paint job still looks as nice as it does for being out in 
 the weather for 45-50 years.
 
  I can't tell much about the ride height from the picture,
 
 I can measure front bumper height, rear bumper height, or any height you 
 want. Just tell me.
 
  but when I get home I'm going to run the numbers from Nate's make
  my move and buy some LT tires. Then I will post some pictures. Maybe
  I'll post before and after... Thanks again.
 
 You'll be glad later on that you took some before photos. One can never 
 take enough photos! Speaking of photos, where are the current photos of 
 your 1959 Apache? It'd be nice to see what you have.
 
 Garnet 
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 15 Tire Size Question

2011-11-26 Thread Jonas Thaler
I am very excited to check out your truck.  I've been traveling and accessing 
(and i am way behind!!) email on phones and such but will be home tomorrow.  
Thanks so much for replying to my post.

Jonas Thaler

On Nov 26, 2011, at 1:40 PM, G. Kelly gke...@wolfenet.com wrote:

 Jonas,
 
  Is there such an animal as LT215/85R15, which presumably would be
  narrower than the 85? I have not seen one anywhere.
 
 Huh? There is a LT215/85R16, but I don't see that size for a 15 inch wheel. 
 If there is you'll find it. Just contact all the manufacturers and tire 
 dealers.
 
 Did you even look at the photos of my tires on 15 inch wheels. You've got 
 the same truck. You never did respond.
 
 Garnet 
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 15 Tire Size Question

2011-11-26 Thread Jonas Thaler
To Garnet (et al):

I did just figure out how to look at the pictures on iPad in the relative quiet 
of Dion's Pizza in Albuquerque, NM.  You 59 step side is awesome.  I love that 
color...  I can't tell much about the ride height from the picture, but when I 
get home I'm going to run the numbers from Nate's make my move and buy some LT 
tires.  Then I will post some pictures.  Maybe I'll post before an after... 
Thanks again.

Jonas Thaler

On Nov 26, 2011, at 1:40 PM, G. Kelly gke...@wolfenet.com wrote:

 Jonas,
 
  Is there such an animal as LT215/85R15, which presumably would be
  narrower than the 85? I have not seen one anywhere.
 
 Huh? There is a LT215/85R16, but I don't see that size for a 15 inch wheel. 
 If there is you'll find it. Just contact all the manufacturers and tire 
 dealers.
 
 Did you even look at the photos of my tires on 15 inch wheels. You've got 
 the same truck. You never did respond.
 
 Garnet 
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 15 Tire Size Question

2011-11-26 Thread Jonas Thaler
I meant run the numbers from Nate an Garnet's emails. IPads are wacky...

Jonas Thaler

On Nov 26, 2011, at 8:01 PM, Jonas Thaler jonastha...@jonasthaler.com wrote:

 To Garnet (et al):
 
 I did just figure out how to look at the pictures on iPad in the relative 
 quiet of Dion's Pizza in Albuquerque, NM. You 59 step side is awesome. I love 
 that color... I can't tell much about the ride height from the picture, but 
 when I get home I'm going to run the numbers from Nate's make my move and buy 
 some LT tires. Then I will post some pictures. Maybe I'll post before an 
 after... Thanks again.
 
 Jonas Thaler
 
 On Nov 26, 2011, at 1:40 PM, G. Kelly gke...@wolfenet.com wrote:
 
  Jonas,
  
   Is there such an animal as LT215/85R15, which presumably would be
   narrower than the 85? I have not seen one anywhere.
  
  Huh? There is a LT215/85R16, but I don't see that size for a 15 inch wheel. 
  If there is you'll find it. Just contact all the manufacturers and tire 
  dealers.
  
  Did you even look at the photos of my tires on 15 inch wheels. You've got 
  the same truck. You never did respond.
  
  Garnet 
  
  
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 15 Tire Size Question

2011-11-25 Thread Jonas Thaler
ThanksDon't know for sure but is information may have just saved me 
thousand dollars or so.  And some invaluable reduction in aggravation...  Much 
appreciated...

Jonas Thaler

On Nov 25, 2011, at 7:22 AM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 Not that I have yet found .
 
 I'm sure it's available South of the Border (maybe North too @ Canadian Tire) 
 as other countries tend to buy tires for actual need , not what ' looks cool 
 ' =8-^ .
 
 Ideally , you'd be wanting a 32 diameter tire , these are 28  29 , pretty 
 close .
 
 DO keep looking , I recently got a Falken Tire Co. catalog , my son has been 
 bugging me to try them , I thought they only made low profile
 racing tires but happliy I spotted several different series of LT tires in 
 there and they have one series I plan to buy a full set of if ever I find 
 those flusherginer 6 lug 16 rims , they're Falken's Toyota Land Cruiser 
 tires , black walled LT's , narrow and tall , plus E rated , 50 # inflation 
 pressure ... pretty good stuff but maybe pricy , I'll let you alls know 
 when I get them .
 
 FWIW , when you're looking at LT tires and two are the same size but one 
 costs more , look at the recommended inflation pressures , the higher 
 pressure one will always be the heavier duty one ,(D or E rated) that's what 
 you want , it'll last  last  carry you and yours safely until you toss them 
 out in 25 years from dry rot .
 
 -Nate
 Jonas wrote:
 
  Is there such an animal as LT215/85R15, which presumably would be narrower 
  than the 85? I have not seen one anywhere.
  Jonas Thaler
  
  On Nov 24, 2011, at 3:44 PM, Nate vwnate1@... wrote:
  
   
   For freeway driving and no heavy duty use : TP39452400
   
   215/80R15
   
   For hard truck use , or towing etc. : TL15904000
   
   LT215/75R15
   
   100S 6
   
   BSW this is a true Light Truck Tire .
   
   You can go up to a LT235/75R15 for more diameter  lower engine speeds 
   *but* this is a wider tire and so will have heavier steering  look ' fat 
   ' in the sidewalls .
   
   I'd use the LT215/74R15 , maybe I will , it depends if I can find any 
   stock 6 lug wheels , still looking .
   
   -Nate
   
   
   
  
  
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re : 15 Tire Size Question

2011-11-24 Thread Jonas Thaler
Is there such an animal as LT215/85R15, which presumably would be narrower than 
the 85?  I have not seen one anywhere.
Jonas Thaler

On Nov 24, 2011, at 3:44 PM, Nate vwna...@yahoo.com wrote:

 
 For freeway driving and no heavy duty use : TP39452400
 
 215/80R15
 
 For hard truck use , or towing etc. : TL15904000
 
 LT215/75R15
 
 100S 6
 
 BSW this is a true Light Truck Tire .
 
 You can go up to a LT235/75R15 for more diameter  lower engine speeds *but* 
 this is a wider tire and so will have heavier steering  look ' fat ' in the 
 sidewalls .
 
 I'd use the LT215/74R15 , maybe I will , it depends if I can find any stock 6 
 lug wheels , still looking .
 
 -Nate
 
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Tire Size Question

2011-11-16 Thread Jonas Thaler
Garnet (or other helpful soul)~

Would you mind sharing the exact radial tire size you got for your (amazing and 
wonderful) 1959 3100?   

I know it's amazing and wonderful because I have one too.  But right now it is 
sitting on big@$$ car tires, rides too low.I cannot find LT215/85/R15 in 
anything but HUGE knobby 4WD monsters.

Looks like a bad version of a low rider.  Nothing against lowriders, but it 
really isn't one.  It just rides too low.  And I am afraid to load up the bed.

Thanks

---jonas



On Nov 16, 2011, at 3:16 PM, G. Kelly wrote:

  Hi Everyone: I have a 38 Chevy sedan. Does anyone know what
  the correct equivalent size of a radial tire that would replace the
  6;00/16? thanks!!
 
  Bruce
 
  I'd _highly_ suggest you use LT215/85R16 tires as they're Light Truck
  rated and your '38 Chevy is a heavy beast . you'll prolly never wear
  them out if you buy the better tires .
 
  I'm running Daytons , I love 'em .
 
  -Nate
 
  Hi Group, I have been advised by a tire expert that my 600:16 wheels
  will not accomidate any radial tire. Does anyone else know about this
  situation? I need new tires and wanna get radials.
 
  Thanks, Bruce
 
 I don't know if there is a lot of difference between your 1938 16 inch and 
 my 1959 15 inch. Almost 2 years ago I followed Nate's advice to get LT 
 radials for the 15 inch original wheels on my 1959 Apache 3100. After a big 
 search I found the LT radial black-wall tire I was happy with and had them 
 installed. I am quite happy with them. They look and run great!
 
 Garnet 
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Heater Core

2011-10-17 Thread Jonas Thaler
My radiator shop welded a new core into my heater assembly and it's like new 
now.  It cost about $90 a couple of years ago.

Jonas Thaler

On Oct 17, 2011, at 8:33 PM, fahrbach51 mfahrb...@hughes.net wrote:

 When I had my radiator rebuilt, I also took in the original heater core. I 
 was told it was shot and beyond repair. Can I ask if anyone has any tips or 
 ideas on where to start looking for one? 
 
 Mike Fahrbach
 '51 3600
 
 


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] parts for antique. ancient trucks

2011-10-16 Thread Jonas Thaler
I believe there is a truck for every truck-lover.  I would recommend a lot of 
research, as much as you can stand, before you make your move.  The more you 
read up and surf the Internet ahead of time, the better.  If you don't do 
research, then you tend to succumb to human nature and make your first purchase 
solely an emotional decision rather than a rational one.  This greatly affects 
your investment, ie how much money you will have to spend to get this truck to 
be the way you like it.

All that adult stuff.

Anyway, the gist of it is KNOW WHAT YOU WANT, know what your dream truck is as 
best you can before you buy it.

As if I EVER followed that advice for about 60 old vehicle purchases!

I have had great luck buying parts cheaply from the auction site that rhymes 
with fee-pay.  Also there are a lot of dealers who have internet catalogs like 
American Classics, Jim Carter and Brothers.  Some reproduction parts are 
garbage, so I would recommend finding a pick-a-part and getting to know what 
real IRON looks and feels like.

And with some looking around you can probably find a mechanic in your area who 
knows how wonderful these old vehicles are, what a pleasure it is to work on 
them, and who will make a little money helping you with your amazing new hobby.

That's my 2 ¢

jt




On Oct 16, 2011, at 8:41 PM, Kim's guy wrote:

 IF a rusted old beauty, an old truck, an old stake farm truck did come 
 through for me, my gosh a: '48 '49 '55 '56 '57 '60 something '70 something 
 '80 something what do we do when our old, ancient, antique, trucks break 
 down what auto parts store continues to manufacture parts for these vintage 
 vehicles? what do you folks all do please??? THANK YOU!
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Overboring

2011-09-24 Thread Jonas Thaler
Some of my best friends are...uh...overboring.

Sorry.  

I had the choice between sleeving and using a different (235) block and I 
decided to use a good junk block I had access to, and all is well.

The block came from a 1962 Buick I think, and it had a couple of lugs in the 
wrong place so the bird legs no longer fit, but we actually made a beautiful 
custom center motor mount for it.   Unless you are looking for bird legs (which 
I admit I used to think were cool) you can't even notice it.




Thanks

jonas





On Sep 24, 2011, at 6:40 PM, Nate wrote:


It's *very* poor practice on several counts : the cylinder wall get too thin so 
the engine tends to run too hot and this means short engine life .

Plug shift when the block was originally casted means the cylinders may have 
seriously thin spots in their walls , this leads to  drop outs  where the 
cylinder simply fractures  fails as you're happily Motoring along

If the block is a good 'un , have the cylinders sleeved ~ this will be 
expen$ive but , boring 0.080 over is plain old silly ~ this means way beyond 
ill advised and well into foolhardy .

Any Machinist who suggests such a thing , is no longer on your team .

-Nate
Ken Wrote ;

Hey guys, I posted a question about boring a 235 .080. last week. It is rare
that I don't get at least one hit from you guys. My question is; has anyone
bored a 235 chev up to .080. They make pistons that size, but I am getting mixed
messages from lots of mechanics and machinests about the adviseability.
Thanks for any input.
Ken





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Overboring

2011-09-24 Thread Jonas Thaler
I forgot to mention that my truck is a 1959 3200 Chevy.

Cheers.


jt




On Sep 24, 2011, at 6:46 PM, Jonas Thaler wrote:

Some of my best friends are...uh...overboring.

Sorry.  

I had the choice between sleeving and using a different (235) block and I 
decided to use a good junk block I had access to, and all is well.

The block came from a 1962 Buick I think, and it had a couple of lugs in the 
wrong place so the bird legs no longer fit, but we actually made a beautiful 
custom center motor mount for it.   Unless you are looking for bird legs (which 
I admit I used to think were cool) you can't even notice it.




Thanks

jonas





On Sep 24, 2011, at 6:40 PM, Nate wrote:


It's *very* poor practice on several counts : the cylinder wall get too thin so 
the engine tends to run too hot and this means short engine life .

Plug shift when the block was originally casted means the cylinders may have 
seriously thin spots in their walls , this leads to  drop outs  where the 
cylinder simply fractures  fails as you're happily Motoring along

If the block is a good 'un , have the cylinders sleeved ~ this will be 
expen$ive but , boring 0.080 over is plain old silly ~ this means way beyond 
ill advised and well into foolhardy .

Any Machinist who suggests such a thing , is no longer on your team .

-Nate
Ken Wrote ;

Hey guys, I posted a question about boring a 235 .080. last week. It is rare
that I don't get at least one hit from you guys. My question is; has anyone
bored a 235 chev up to .080. They make pistons that size, but I am getting mixed
messages from lots of mechanics and machinests about the adviseability.
Thanks for any input.
Ken





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Links with no message

2011-03-15 Thread Jonas Thaler
I feel bad for the people running the list.

The spammers are mostly wasting their own time and money.  Nobody on this list 
reads their malarkey.  And if I need medication, I can ask my doctor.

Thanks for providing the service to this wonderful hobby.




On Mar 15, 2011, at 5:50 AM, den...@mcgilliscompany.com wrote:

Dedicated to the preservation and restoration of stock 
1941-1959 Chevy and GMC trucks. KEEP IT STOCK!It looks like 
we have two spammers working our list.

Any link without a message is likely to create trouble.

Dennis

- Original Message - 
From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 15, 2011 4:08 AM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Digest Number 4423

Dedicated to the preservation and restoration of stock 
1941-1959 Chevy and GMC trucks. KEEP IT STOCK!
Messages In This Digest (2 Messages)
1. heyz From: Ferlin McAlister
2. (no subject) From: Max Richardson
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1. heyz
Posted by: Ferlin McAlister ferli...@yahoo.com 
ferlin_m
Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:12 pm (PDT)

Look good store http://caiintelligent.com/pillshere.htm

Back to top Reply to sender | Reply to group | Reply via 
web post
Messages in this topic (1)
2. (no subject)
Posted by: Max Richardson 
thegibsonfivestr...@yahoo.com thegibsonfivestring
Mon Mar 14, 2011 2:12 pm (PDT)

http://eurostileglobal.com/store/movies.html

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Loose steering

2011-01-01 Thread Jonas Thaler
I just did all the things you list in your email; ie a complete front end 
rebuild, short of rebuilding the steering box.  The truck (59 3200) handles a 
dream now compared to before.  The drag link was too thin and bowed so bad you 
could shoot arrows on it.   Still a bit of play in the steering box, but 
acceptable.  The new link is much heavier duty and holds the wheels in the 
right relative position at all times.  When you hit a bump it all doesn't go to 
H.

I recommend new parts in the front end






On Jan 1, 2011, at 10:15 AM, JZ wrote:

One of my winter projects is fixing the loose steering on my 54 Chevy 1/2 ton 
now that I am on the road and running legal. I tightened the steering box screw 
and greased the front end, packing all the fittings completely. Put the front 
end up and looked for any obvious loose fitting parts. I went from about a 1/3 
turn play to about 1/6 play turn but still not what I call really safe. My next 
step seems to be rebuilding the steering box. Is it worth replacing the tie rod 
ends, drag link and king pins. The tie rods are original type and aren't they a 
bit*h to get out? Any advise from someone that's been down this road? Should I 
take it to have it aligned and have them tell me what wrong?

James Zorn

zorn...@sbcglobal.net

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: horn relay question

2010-12-26 Thread Jonas Thaler
You could run your house on that relay!

(But don't)

Merry New Year.


On Dec 26, 2010, at 9:40 AM, ccpanel wrote:

if you can make a 12V relay work-chevy makes an AWESOME relay I use for tons of 
stuff. its rated for 200 amps continuous and is meant to be used in a dual 
battery situation. they are relativly cheap $45 or so. yeah-that sounds like a 
lot till you look around in the aftermarket.
Mark

--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Mike Burns mp.bu...@... wrote:

 My 1940 half ton had only 1 fuse in it. I have decided to add a nice small 8
 circuit fuse block to it. My plan was to use a relay to switch power on and
 off to the fuse block. The relay will be controlled by the ignition switch.
 The only 6 volt relay that I have is from an old positive ground Ford. In
 order to make it work, I will have to connect the relay coil backwards. I
 tested the relay and was surprised to find that it operated fine with the
 coil hooked up either way.
 
 
 
 My questions are: 
 
 
 
 1.Will a horn relay last when on for long periods of time?
 
 
 
 2. How is it that a DC relay coil works no matter what polarity it is
 connected to?
 
 
 
 Thanks
 
 Mike Burns
 
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Aircraft #13 on the Doolittle Raid

2010-12-05 Thread Jonas Thaler
We really do care about Veterans, the flag, our brave soldiers, etc, but this 
forum is for Old Chevrolet Trucks.
  
Can we at least discuss MILITARY TRUCKS?  A bonafide fascinating subject about 
which I am very curious and know very little.  Anyone have any military truck 
stories?

===jt



On Dec 6, 2010, at 2:51 AM, G. Kelly wrote:

 If I happen to be out somewhere and they ask if there are any veterans in 
 the crowd frequently I am the only one who stands up. It is becoming more 
 sad each time to see just how few younger people care.
 
 Garnet
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 
 Thank you Rob .
 
 There would be no old trucks for us to play and work with and on , if not 
 for our Veterans .
 
 For those who _still_ don't get it , please go to this group's home page 
 and read the rules written by Rob .
 
 Like it or not , it's Rob's group and we should all respect that .
 
 I didn't like the lead in comments either but it is not my group and I am 
 gratified I'm allowed to be here .
 
 -Nate
 
 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] FW: Aircraft #13 on the Doolittle Raid

2010-12-04 Thread Jonas Thaler
Thank you!

You said it MUCH better and MUCH more POLITELY than I was about to.  There is 
so much common ground, so much useful, factual, historical and purely joyful 
stuff to discuss on our chosen topic, OLD CHEVY TRUCKS, and so little time!

Why muck things up with political jabber, which can easily be found on TV, on 
the Internet, or engaged in at any bar?

jonas



On Dec 4, 2010, at 7:27 PM, Ken Cluley wrote:

What the hell does this have to do with old trucks?

--- On Sat, 12/4/10, Rob J jacobs...@gscwireless.net wrote:

From: Rob J jacobs...@gscwireless.net
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] FW: Aircraft #13 on the Doolittle Raid
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, December 4, 2010, 9:11 PM

Rec'd from a correspondent in mail group of heroes.

Give a big Hoo-ah! to the US Navy and the Army Doolittle Crews for their
raid. What courage, what uncommon bravery. Yet note the author's  assertion:
They simply did their job. Each of them felt that they were in the company
of heroes, but not a hero themselves.

This is a great read.

It was a different time, though not necessarily a time of lesser danger than
now. We simply responded to an attack on America by declaring total war on
the perpetrators and their allies and pursued them until their capacity to
make war was totally destroyed. We were a bold and great people then. Today
about half the population acts like a pathetic bunch of PC-whimps!

Compare Pre-revolutionary France [of the late 18th Century]: Now our
Secretary of State acts like Talleyrand, our President acts like Louis XVI,
his Wife acts like Marie Antoinette, and the Congress acts like the useless
Estates General. The King dismissed Patriots like Lafayette who wanted to
create a free France, but the collectivists, revolutionaries, and anarchists
of the day had different ideas and brought mayhem and destruction. Ten years
later Napoleon ruled France as a total dictator and roamed Europe trampling
other nation states under foot almost at will. The aftermath of Napoleon's
defeat created a vacuum, fertile ground for Karl Marx [1818-83] and his
theories to take root. We have been fighting communism ever since. Read an
unbiased history to discover what happened to all these folks... it is worth
your time!

But I digress 

Our pathetic, Left-dominated education system fails to tell the stories of
these old warriors ... or for that matter, old warriors from Korea, Viet
Nam, the Hot-Cold Wars of the 60s,70s  80s, GWI and GWII, and Afghanistan.
Our children [some even well into their 50s] have absolutely no sense of the
sacrifices it takes to keep us free, and have only known the good life. Is
it any wonder that the country languishes in 10% unemployment, but won't
take those measures that will turn this country back into the engine of
freedom in the world.

Fewer than 1/3 [like Steny Hoyer] of our Congress Members have ever served
in the military. Very few of those who served are combat veterans. Men under
55 year of age were not subject to the draft. Fewer than 7%-10% of men
[depending on age group] under 55 are veterans. This is a pathetic statement
of willingness to support and defend the Constitution and our Republic. It
would seem that most talk about giving back to our Country did not apply
to military service. Compare this to the 70+% who served during the WWII,
Korea, and Vietnam era.

Draw your own conclusions about the future of America if the Progressives
finish their agenda of social engineering in the USA.

wrm

  _  

Should be required reading for all Americans

Great first-hand account of an important event in WWII history.

Aircraft #13 on the  Doolittle Raid 
~~~ 




For you  historians,  this is an interesting account of  the Doolittle raid
on the mainland of Japan in early WW ll.  Enjoy!

This is a really excellent firsthand account by the pilot of  aircraft #13
on the Doolittle Raid off the Hornet in 1942. Take the time and enjoy a bit
of history.

  _  

  _  

My  name is  Edgar McElroy. My friends call me Mac. I was  born and
raised in Ennis , Texas the youngest of  five children, son of Harry and
Jennie McElroy.  Folks say that I was the quiet one. We lived at609
North Dallas Street and attended the  Presbyterian Church.   
My dad had  an auto  mechanic's shop downtown close to the  main fire
station. My family was  a hard working  bunch, and I was expected to work at
dad's  garage  after school and on Saturdays, so I grew  up in an
atmosphere of  machinery, oil and  grease. Occasionally I would hear a lone
plane   fly over, and would run out in the street and  strain my eyes
against the sun to watch it.  Someday, that would be me up there!   

I really like  cars,  and I was always busy on some project, and  it wasn't
long before I  decided to build  my  very own Model-T out of spare parts. I
got an engine from over here, a frame from over  there, and  wheels from

Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 2009 Chevrolet vs. 1959 Chevrolet

2010-11-30 Thread Jonas Thaler
Be sure not to include the period after 50thcrash in the URL on your browser.



On Dec 1, 2010, at 2:04 AM, Arizona Real Estate wrote:

 Still works for me.
 
 --- On Tue, 11/30/10, G. Kelly gke...@wolfenet.com wrote:
 
 From: G. Kelly gke...@wolfenet.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 2009 Chevrolet vs. 1959 Chevrolet
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Date: Tuesday, November 30, 2010, 6:34 PM
 
 Allen,
 
 Did the site go down?  I get this after clicking on the link:
 
 We're sorry, the video you've requested is unavailable at this time.
 Please try again later.
 
 Garnet
 ===
 
 - Original Message - 
 If someone hasn't seen this, it is interesting. 
 http://www.iihs.org/video.aspx/info/50thcrash.  Take note of the A pillar 
 performance between the Malibu and Bel Air - it's remarkable.  It really 
 does drive home the point on what to expect in a offset frontal impact.  I 
 think this would even apply to our old trucks.  I get a false sense of 
 security thinking my added seat belts will protect me in a serious crash. 
 Not to mention the javelin of a steering column that will likely impale 
 thought my chest.  It is a shame they destroyed the Bel Air.  This email is 
 full of happy thoughts...
 
 Allen
 '50 3100
 
 PS Also note the dust (or is it sand blast grit?) that comes out of the 
 rocker panel of the Bel Air on impact.  Impressive.
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
 To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: 
  old-chevy-truck-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.comyahoo! Groups Links
 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] sheet metal issues 52 AD

2010-09-16 Thread Jonas Thaler
Or at least we try!


On Sep 16, 2010, at 3:12 PM, K Ohlgren wrote:

 
 it was a truck. we make them better than the showroom floor
 
 Kurt 
 58 3100 Apache project 
 the Duracell Project it keeps going... and going...
 When I die, i want to go asleep and peaceful, not screaming and freaking out 
 like everyone else in the car.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 From: whetstone.retr...@yahoo.com
 Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 12:54:58 +
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] sheet metal issues 52 AD
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Anybody run into this?
 After stripping the paint off the fenders, I found on the right rear fender 
 creases left over from the stamping process that apparently no attempt had 
 been made to fill them---just filled in with paint.
 Couldn't tell after nearly 60 yrs later and two lousy repaints, but must have 
 been pretty noticeable off the show room floor. Am I too naive about what I 
 thought quality control was like back then?
 Ken W.
 
 
 
 
 
 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 
 
 
 
 
 Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
 
 To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to: 
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] RE: 59 speedo

2010-08-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
The odometer part is very very simple.I think four screws come out to 
access it.   My advice is to be careful that the little brass clip which keeps 
the gears in alignment is nice and tight.  To reset to zero you pull that clip 
off, turn each wheel to zero (or whatever number) and then replace the clip.



On Aug 29, 2010, at 7:27 PM, K Ohlgren wrote:


the gear in the trans is new (so is the trans)
new cable in old housing (lubed)
also the speedo doesn't jump around like a hanging cable.
not interested in updating to digital


maybe i'll pull it out and look at it. 
i was going to when i refurbed the face, 
but for some reason i was intimidated by all the fine parts in there.
i'll tear it down, clean it up and reset it to 0
what do i have to lose?

thanks for the replies

Kurt 
58 3100 Apache project 
the Duracell Project it keeps going... and going...
When I die, i want to go asleep and peaceful, not screaming and freaking out 
like everyone else in the car.


 From: kjohlg...@hotmail.com
 To: oletru...@autox.team.net; old_chevroletgmctru...@yahoogroups.com; 
 old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Date: Sat, 28 Aug 2010 14:12:36 -0400
 Subject: [Oletrucks] 59 speedo
 
 the speedo on my 59 reads fast under 30, hangs at 30 from 30 to 45 and then
 reads slow over 45.
 is the speedo on my 59 worth rebuilding or should i just buy a new one?
 lmc has a new speedo for the 55-59 trucks for $150.
 has anyone bought a lmc speedo?
 
 Kurt
 58 3100 Apache project
 the Duracell Project it keeps going... and going...
 When I die, i want to go asleep and peaceful, not screaming and freaking out
 like everyone else in the car.
 ___
 
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 Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
 Suggested annual donation $11.47
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 Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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[old-chevy-truck] Re: [Oletrucks] 59 speedo

2010-08-28 Thread Jonas Thaler
My own 59 TF speedo tale of woe:  I took out the whole cluster, had it rebuilt 
for 450 bucks, new chrome on bezel.   Re-installed it (and as you might know, 
it is not an easy job to R  R this unit.)  All the gauges worked perfectly and 
the speedo worked like a new car. For two blocks.  Right away the odometer 
froze in place, like at .2 miles.   So I pulled the whole thing out again, 
tagged the lamp wires, etc.   I opened up the cluster and discovered that a 
small brass clip was loose which holds the number wheels in place so their 
little gears can mesh properly.  The clip looked destroyed by metal fatigue.  
Why that would be I have no idea.  So I replaced it with one from a parts 
cluster I had.  Fifty miles later my beautifully installed replacement clip 
fell off, I guess from vibration.  Then about a month later, the speedometer 
started making a meat grinder sound.  The cable and gear are fine.  Something 
is nasty inside the speedo unit itself.

Now I am too busy with work to deal with it.

I am, however, excited to be having the front end rebuilt.

Sigh.







On Aug 28, 2010, at 11:12 AM, K Ohlgren wrote:

the speedo on my 59 reads fast under 30, hangs at 30 from 30 to 45 and then
reads slow over 45.
is the speedo on my 59 worth rebuilding or should i just buy a new one?
lmc has a new speedo for the 55-59 trucks for $150.
has anyone bought a lmc speedo?

Kurt
58 3100 Apache project
the Duracell Project it keeps going... and going...
When I die, i want to go asleep and peaceful, not screaming and freaking out
like everyone else in the car.
___

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Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: [Old_ChevroletGMCTrucks] Re: [Oletrucks] 59 speedo

2010-08-28 Thread Jonas Thaler
Well, I sent in my old unit and paid the money, got the new one, but was so 
busy that it took me more than a year to to install it, so whatever warranty 
there was would be long gone!

I am pretty sure the person who rebuilt it was selling the rebuild via eBay.  
All I know is his name was Randy, 4601Randy, to be exact, and I can't really 
blame him as at one point he offered to service the unit after the thing 
failed, despite my tardiness, and he seemed nice enough during the transaction. 
 I was traveling all the time for work and never sent it back.

One day I will tear it out and bite the bullet!






On Aug 28, 2010, at 6:19 PM, G. Kelly wrote:

Jonas,

Who did the rebuild for you?

Garnet
=

On Aug 28, 2010, Jonas wrote:

My own 59 TF speedo tale of woe: I took out the whole cluster, had it
rebuilt for 450 bucks, new chrome on bezel. Re-installed it (and as you
might know, it is not an easy job to R  R this unit.) All the gauges
worked perfectly and the speedo worked like a new car. For two blocks.
Right away the odometer froze in place, like at .2 miles. So I pulled the
whole thing out again, tagged the lamp wires, etc. I opened up the cluster
and discovered that a small brass clip was loose which holds the number
wheels in place so their little gears can mesh properly. The clip looked
destroyed by metal fatigue. Why that would be I have no idea. So I
replaced it with one from a parts cluster I had. Fifty miles later my
beautifully installed replacement clip fell off, I guess from vibration.
Then about a month later, the speedometer started making a meat grinder
sound. The cable and gear are fine. Something is nasty inside the speedo
unit itself.

Now I am too busy with work to deal with it.

I am, however, excited to be having the front end rebuilt.

Sigh.
===

On Aug 28, 2010, at 11:12 AM, K Ohlgren wrote:

the speedo on my 59 reads fast under 30, hangs at 30 from 30 to 45 and then
reads slow over 45.
is the speedo on my 59 worth rebuilding or should i just buy a new one?
lmc has a new speedo for the 55-59 trucks for $150.
has anyone bought a lmc speedo?

Kurt
58 3100 Apache project
==





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Cab corners louvers

2010-08-15 Thread Jonas Thaler
And I got some, which have held up for 8 years so far,  at:

http://www.americanclassic.com/



On Aug 15, 2010, at 8:19 AM, SamS wrote:

Thanks Ken, thats a new one for me. I checked it out and I can save some money 
on those parts. The louvers, I couldn't find any on that site. 
Sam
'51 Chev. pick up





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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Cab corners louvers

2010-08-15 Thread Jonas Thaler
Cab corners AND louvers. !!!


On Aug 15, 2010, at 9:52 AM, Jonas Thaler wrote:

And I got some, which have held up for 8 years so far,  at:

http://www.americanclassic.com/



On Aug 15, 2010, at 8:19 AM, SamS wrote:

Thanks Ken, thats a new one for me. I checked it out and I can save some money 
on those parts. The louvers, I couldn't find any on that site. 
Sam
'51 Chev. pick up






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re:Fw: Great place for hard to find car parts!

2010-08-14 Thread Jonas Thaler
I ordered an automatic leg-puller, cause I'm not as good at it as some people 
around here!

;  )

jt



On Aug 14, 2010, at 11:25 AM, dennis.mcgil...@mcgilliscompany.com wrote:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=index
That is a great source, thanks Nate!
And the product reviews are almost as good as the 
descriptions.
I ordered the
710 Cap
Johnson Rod
Kuhneutson Valve
Muffler Bearing
Piston Return Spring
Left Handed Metric Screwdriver
Sky Hook Set
Blinker Fluid
Elbow Grease
Heavy Duty Clutch Belt
Seasonal Tire Air

My '53 pickup will be awesome.

Thanks,
Dennis

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 'Grouply ' Invites from your old-chevy-truck

2008-12-10 Thread Jonas Thaler
At first glance it looks like these Grouply people have hit every  
yahoo and Google group they can to promote their website.  Their  
business plan would have to include ADVERTISING on the site, or why  
would they bother? We are already saturated with advertising and  
people who advertise the excess advertising tend to annoy me! 
Personally I can manage all my groups just fine with my email client  
and I love not having to look at ads.

jt




On Dec 10, 2008, at 7:49 AM, vwnate1 wrote:


What ;

you don't like us trying to help each other out ? .

I notice you didn't sign your name...

-Nate
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Old Chevy Pickup
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 
  I just joined this site and I have to read this nonsense, no thanks
 
 
 
 
  To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: [EMAIL PROTECTED]: Tue, 9 Dec 2008 23:16:10
+Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 'Grouply ' Invites from your old-
chevy-truck
 
 
 
  Here's the deal ;Grouply is a fairly well known ' hisihing ' site
and apparently many people are using it without any problems so they
simply want us to share the fun...I always decline these invites but
I've had more than one off list reply telling me they're having no
problems with Grouply...If _you_ think giving strangers your
passwords _and_ written permission to make all the changes to your
your data they want , go ahead and do it , I'll be over here in the
dark corner , paranoid .-Nate






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] cracked 216 news

2008-11-28 Thread Jonas Thaler
Sounds like KARMA.  You got a perfect block that's rare as hen's teeth  
and you ridded yourself and your business of a sub-par (or at least  
problematic) employee. You will enjoy your truck all the more  
because of the adversity you have been through together.




On Nov 28, 2008, at 6:24 PM, Jeffrey Pohlar wrote:

Might remember that back in March 08 I discovered an external crack in  
the cyl block of my 216. Since then I've been trying to figure a good  
solution. I still used the truck anyway, but just had to make sure  
that it was kept full of coolant etc. Well during the summer, while my  
one employee was using the truck for personal use, it was severly  
overheated and blew a head gasket at the very least. One thing I knew  
for sure, when water was put in the radiator, #5 cyl filled up with  
water and water ran out between the block and head.

Contrary to what he told me, I strongly suspect that he overheated it  
many times while he was using it to go back and forth to work. I've  
heard that evidence through the grapevine around here after the fact.

In my world of equipment repair, that likely means that all the  
previously new valve springs are shot and the piston rings have shrunk  
along with a certainly warped and possibly cracked head to go along  
with an already cracked block. Although I painstakenly overhauled that  
engine 6-7 years ago, it probably still only had 12,000 miles on it.  
Oh well. I should've known better. He no longer works here. Not just  
because of that. He had other issues as well.

Luckily, I was the winning bidder of the NOS 216 short block on eBay a  
couple of days ago. It has arrived and I am amazed with it. It still  
has the Genuine Chevrolet Replacement Parts tag hanging on it with the  
recommended break in procedures. Although its dusty/dirty, it has no  
oxidation to speak of. It is coated with a very thin film of  
something. Must be good stuff. The casting date code shows it to be a  
late 49 casting but it has the same block casting number as the 53  
model year engine currently in the truck.

Looks like I'll be building another 216 soon. This one has to be  
completely disassembled for cleaning but I can live with that. I also  
have an empty NOS cyl head here that I picked up a couple of years ago  
but I may or may not use it. Depends on the condition of my warped  
head after an inspection.

Pretty happy about this situation so far so I thought I'd share. It  
amazes me what NOS parts are still floating around. Someone recently  
had a boatload of AD Chev truck stuff a couple of months ago. There  
was alot of stuff I wanted but just couldn't justify it.

Jeff in Clermont, FL
53 3800 Chev (parked for now)

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Radio restoration - Keep it Stock!

2008-08-23 Thread Jonas Thaler
That spurs a memory for me too.When I finished high school, I  
bought a sparkly blue 65 Chevy 1/2 ton, it had a 235, three on the  
tree and it was a step-side.   At that time it was a spring chicken,  
only eight years old!!!I really wanted an El Camino with a big V-8  
and wide tires etc, but our insurance agent lived next door and my dad  
said NO WAY.

This was in Cleveland Ohio and I while recovering from surgery the  
summer after twelfth grade,  I built a meticulously-detailed hippie- 
style redwood house on the back of my truck.I was still not fully  
healed and some friends drove it to San Francisco for me and I flew  
out and it became my vehicle while I was at college at UC Berkeley.   
First of several GM pickup trucks I accumulated in the Bay Area during  
those years.

I drove that pickup truck back and forth between Ohio and the Bay Area  
for holidays over and over.  I-80 was like my personal driveway home  
in those days.  My friends and I ALWAYS found trucks to draft behind  
to conserve gas and we too sailed along for hours at a time that way,  
achieving ridiculously low MPGs.   Remember, this was the FIRST gas  
crunch in America and we were poor college students..  Without a clue  
that truck drivers understandably abhor that kind of driving, and that  
it added a lot of danger to something that is already pretty risky!

It's amazing that that carefree youth survived to be a mellow and  
careful grey-haired truck lover today.

HAPPY GM-TRUCKING!!







On Aug 23, 2008, at 12:33 PM, cyclingbro wrote:

--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Rod LaFrance [EMAIL PROTECTED]  
wrote:
Hi Rod, I laughed at your coments as well. If I think about my driving  
at that time 55 was
to slow for me as well. A few packages bounced off in my time :)  
However Glad to be here
and I see the speed demon gene in my daughter as well. I am glad to  
have survived my
youth with all the crazy stunts in cars and trucks, Hope I survive it  
as a parent.
Good Luck with the radio.

Charlie
 
  Charlie,
 
  Thanks for your post. Great information, but I suspect I'll have
  someone else cleanup and repair this radio, It worked when I took it
  out, hopefully will fix-up again. I can read an electrical schematic
  to the point I get in trouble.
 
  I had a chuckle regarding your comments on brakes. I drove similar
  trucks in the vegetable fields as a youth to the produce houses. As a
  youth I also drove this truck from Spokane to School in Portland  
for a
  few years. Original brakes. Than it was double nickle speed, which
  worked well for this stock truck. But, I'd find a trucker doing 60+,
  and tuck in behind to catch the draft, I'd sail down the long late
  night highways.
 
  In retrospect, those truckers probably called me names to them self,
  and I probably caused them undue worry. I should be thankful I'm  
still
  here to restore my truck. And if I was to catch a child of mine doing
  this same stupid stunt.Off topic, sorry.
 
  Rod L
 
 
 
  --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, cyclingbro cyclingbro@
  wrote:
  
   --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Larry Anderson landerso@
  wrote:
   
THANKS for the Web site.This is exactly what I have been
  looking for..Trying to keep my truck stock
   but wanted a radio.
   
Larry
49 GMC now with a 270
   
   Hi All, I have been out of the country for a bit. This argument
  seems to have gone far and and wide from the
   radio, However I am into the radios and will try to stay foucused.
   (good luck to me : )
   If the radio is in ok shape, don't mind the dirt and dust. The most
  common failure is at the power supply. It
   is the basis and most fragile part of the circut.
   Replacing the vibrator tube with a solid state version and the 2
  filter caps will not only be a great start but
   repair many radios in a not working. Parts cost about 40 dollars  
from
   http://www.tubesandmore.com/
   I got into it a bit, bid on a few from ebay and was ripped off
  everytime. Kinda wary of many there in this area.
   If you can follow a schematic a bit (seem to all be online)  
Purchase
  a power supply fire it up and measure the
   voltages at the tubes. Not there ? replace the poorly engineered
  vibrator (ac/dc converter) with a solid state
   one. The 2 large filter caps are most likely the only other  
failures
  in the cap section.
   Most tubes are probably still good.
   My radio in my 58 sounds huge and so fat being all tube.
   To bad most of the music is disney channel but my 6 yr old loves  
it.
   I am into staying stock as long as possible.
   If safety is a concern (as it should be) Maybe some brake mods  
for a
  rod, but stock brakes properly set
   should be strong. As a teen I drove a 2 1/2 ton loaded with produce
  and the drum brakes were always great.
  
   Anyway, Lets keep this era going and show American Engineering in
  all its glory.
  
   Best to ya all,
  
   Charlie
  
 






[Non-text 

Re: [old-chevy-truck] Radio restoration

2008-08-10 Thread Jonas Thaler
I have not tried them, but I have heard about

S  S ELECTRONICS
(818) 790-2660
4602 Grand Ave
La Cañada-Flintridge CA 91011

RADIO repair, tube or transistor, auto radios 1930-1970, home radio  
from 1930-1960, parts  labor guaranteed, 40 years experience. SS  
Electronics, 818-790-2660, near Pasadena, CA.

You might give them a call.

jonas




On Aug 10, 2008, at 3:41 PM, Rod LaFrance wrote:

Hello

I have my radio from my 1950 Chevy truck that I need restored. Are
there still dependable folks doing this? I'm on the West coast, so a
reliable person or shop on the west coast would be my first choice,
but I'll ship it to any respected individual or shop to get it
repaired correctly.

Has anyone restored their own radio? Is this something I can do with
proper instructions? Any thoughts?

Rod L
Greenacres, WA.






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Free-Stuff!

2008-07-21 Thread Jonas Thaler
I thought we got rid of you and your non-truck-related spam.  How many  
other groups do you victimize like this?



On Jul 20, 2008, at 11:33 PM, brachael56 wrote:

Here is your opportunity to get something for nothing with NO CATCH!

Visit the link below. Choose a gift. They send it to you...its as easy
as that!
I was sent the link by a friend, I tried it and I got the
freebies...excellent!

http://snipurl.com/freebiegiveaway

Take care and have a great week!






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: [oletrucks] Re: [Old_ChevroletGMCTrucks] my webpage is back to life

2007-10-22 Thread Jonas Thaler
Maybe I was just too busy enjoying the old trucks so much that I  
didn't feel sick.   I  I have a great love of old junkyards filled  
with history.  I went onto this man's website and carefully examined  
every one of those beautiful slowly-rusting hulks, wishing I could  
buy even one of them and restore it.  Of course having done that, I  
know better to look and not touch right now.

It takes a bit of work to maintain a virtual parts yard online.

Bravo for that.




On Oct 22, 2007, at 4:13 AM, charles olson wrote:

Evidently there are those few who are not aware of the recent
studies of computer graphics and motion sickness: Motion sickness
is emerging as a propensity of almost any form of visual computer
graphics that depict motion to the user, as quoted in an online
article of Scientific American. I admire people who become
informed before they opine.

--- Jonas Thaler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

  I think it's a great website and I like the swirling background.
  I
  don't mean to offend either, but I think a guy who gets motion
  sickness from 30 seconds of watching a website had better see a
  doctor right away.
 
 
 
  On Oct 21, 2007, at 8:13 PM, charles olson wrote:
 
  Mark, I sincerely don't mean to be a negative whiner, but I just
  looked at your site and within 30 seconds my perception of your
  waving graphics caused me to have the symptoms of motion
  sickness;
  I had to stop looking at it. I only hope to help, not offend.
  Charlie in AZ
  Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
 
  oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941
  and 1959
 
  Your messages not reaching the list?
  Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html
 
  === Help keep Team.Net on the air
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[old-chevy-truck] Re: [oletrucks] Re: [Old_ChevroletGMCTrucks] my webpage is back to life

2007-10-21 Thread Jonas Thaler
I think it's a great website and I like the swirling background.  I  
don't mean to offend either, but I think a guy who gets motion  
sickness from 30 seconds of watching a website had better see a  
doctor right away.



On Oct 21, 2007, at 8:13 PM, charles olson wrote:

Mark, I sincerely don't mean to be a negative whiner, but I just
looked at your site and within 30 seconds my perception of your
waving graphics caused me to have the symptoms of motion sickness;
I had to stop looking at it.  I only hope to help, not offend.
Charlie in AZ
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around

oletrucks is devoted to Chevy and GM trucks built between 1941 and 1959

Your messages not reaching the list?
Check out http://www.team.net/posting.html

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=== http://www.team.net/donate.html

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] It's Alive!

2007-10-04 Thread Jonas Thaler
All he gets is 7 years?  I say ask for 70 years of pure enjoyment.   
Might as well go for it.

jt


On Oct 4, 2007, at 8:20 AM, Tom C wrote:

Great work, Antonio! Now to get on with 7 more years of pure  
enjoyment. Congratulations on a job well done!
Tom Caperton
'47-2nd Series ... in Whiteville, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]

- Original Message -
From: Antonio Tijerino
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 10:01 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] It's Alive!

Guys,

You have no idea how excited I am tonight, after almost 7 years  
working on
my truck I was finally able to start the engine on my truck today. I had
some minor set backs, for example the fuel pump was dry and I could  
not get
any gas to the carburetor, finally ended up putting a good half of  
cup of
gas into the carb and that engine started and because I install dual  
split
headers it was puring like a kitten.

The truck is '53 3100, the engine is a rebuilt 57 car engine with the
ignition key starter, single carb, dual split headers, Langdon's HEI
ignition, 4 speed Saginaw with a Patrick's shifter. I have an open  
driveline
with a later year rear with a bit better ratio. Next improvements  
planned
are power brakes with disks on the front. The body still needs work,  
but I
drive it like that until I get to finish the body.

Regards,

Antonio

'53 3100

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] one of the more ridiculous auctions ive seen

2007-09-23 Thread Jonas Thaler
Those Canopy Expresses look gorgeous when they are restored.  I think  
it's a shame that the classic auto market doesn't appreciate  
specialty vehicles like hearses and ambulances.  But this was a  
factory offering, was it not?  To me the Canopy Express is a perfect  
reminder of a gentler time when farming was the cultural backbone of  
our country.  I remember that when I was in first grade (a LONG time  
ago) and learning to read, Dick and Jane and Spot lived on a farm!

jt



On Sep 23, 2007, at 8:36 PM, Jeff Pohlar wrote:

Not so fast Mark, I had to look close to see if that was a hacked up  
Panel
but it appears to me that is an early Canopy Express? Can anyone  
confirm it.

Jeff

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Fuel pressure

2007-09-04 Thread Jonas Thaler
My two cents - any plumber will tell you (at least mine did)  that if  
you raise your water pressure too high (illegally) at the regulator  
outside your house, the first thing to malfunction or even blow up  
will be your toilets.  I guess the Venturi principle depends upon an  
understanding of pressure.  When my truck is back together I promise  
to listen to this sage advice.




On Sep 3, 2007, at 10:15 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

I'm certainly the least of expert of this group yet, I could not  
agree with
you more Jeff. Just explained to my brothers wife, the carburator  
works just
like the toilet. H'mm, could it be a bad needle  seat but not bad  
enough to
flood out, but yet run richer than wanted ??? Though engine  
performance would
probably be noticed. Just a thought---maybe check that float needle   
seat
for a good shut off. SteveColumbusGA59 Apache Fleetside  
Ft.Benning GA /HTML

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: HELP !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Our 49 has 15/16 Lugs; and we can't find the right wrench

2007-05-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
How about hosting a truck pull as a fund raiser for your museum?

There are organizations which run those events and they are a lot of  
fun.

A classic truck show with trophies, cotton candy, sausages.  Lots of  
summer chrome.

Real Americana.


!!!




On May 29, 2007, at 3:24 PM, Don Kirk wrote:

I'm in Sheridan, Oregon. If you've never heard of it, it's about 30
miles W-Nw of Salem; and 55 miles S-SW of Portland. Unfortunantly the
only breaker bar I can get is a 3/4 drive; and the socket is about
$18. (in Sheridan). If I'm going to purchase a socket for a wrench I
don't own, I might as well buy the $30. star wrench at Napa. That way
I'd have it to keep. Opening a museum is not cheap. You guys restore
one or two vehicles. Imagine a couple of dozen, plus a monorail,
locomotives, railcars, trollies, horse-drawn wagons, tractors,
airplanes (when we get one), etc. You can see why I'm not ready to
fork over $30. for a wrench I'll use once every few years.

If any of you are near here, I'd really appreciate borrowing a
15/16th.; or if you have a tow truck, or know how to free up the locked
brakes, please come HELP!

We have been given a couple of 46 somewhat parted out chevy pickups;
and any help getting them here from WA would make for some parts
available for some of you.

Don






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount difficulties

2007-04-18 Thread Jonas Thaler
You are right and I am looking into that


jonas


On Apr 18, 2007, at 3:23 AM, James Tye wrote:

I might be fulla something, but I think you'll have to pull the  
timing cover, cam, and remove the front plate, replacing it with one  
that has the holes for the front motor mount so you can then bolt to  
the front crossmember. Such plates are available and can be found on  
ebay, or the stovebolt forum. Or you could drill the holes, but this  
is a tricky business best left to a machinist, and even then you'll  
want a plate to compare it to.

Jonas Thaler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It turned out to be  
a passenger car block.

We are deciding what to do right now.

On Apr 17, 2007, at 6:28 AM, vwnate1 wrote:

Sounds like the wrong engine block for a Task Force truck to me .

-Nate
Jonas wrote:
 
  Again I apologize for repeating myself!
 
  I replaced the block on my 235 in my 59 3200 and now it is built
up
  and ready to install. My mechanic says that the new block is not
  drilled the same way as the old block and he cannot use the same
  mounting plate in the front. He thinks the new block is meant to
  mount in the center,
 
  According to the pictures I took before I removed the old engine
  (before I got my new job and had to hire someone to finish the
truck)
  the old block mounts attached on either side just behind the
timing
  cover.
 
  Is it possible that we got a block that is not compatible with the
  cross member on my 59?
 
  Anybody have a clue? I got one nice reply so far which made me
want
  to go back and re-examine the new block, which I will do next
week.
  But I am still hoping someone knows about these blocks and can
clear
  it up right away
 
  Thanks again so much
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: *Possible SPAM* Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount difficulties

2007-04-18 Thread Jonas Thaler
Very kind of you to help, but I did not get the picture attachment.

---jonas




On Apr 18, 2007, at 8:56 AM, K M Lehmann wrote:

James, if you have the cover plate shown in this picture it can be  
drilled.
Lee

1929 - 1957 Chevrolet Master Parts  Accessories Catalog

Click Here to ENLARGE Page in a new window

Alphabetical Index Illustration Index

 Previous Page Index Next Page 


Click Here for the Main Index of Old Online Chevy Manuals

WebCounter says that you are visitor number:

Please Report any Broken Links or Pages that do not load properly.  
Webmaster

This Information is for Research and the Promotion of the  
Preservation of Older Chevys

All Names, Trademarks and Logos Belong to their Respective Owners.

Web Space Provided by TOCMP

- Original Message -
From: James Tye
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 3:23 AM
Subject: *Possible SPAM* Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount  
difficulties

I might be fulla something, but I think you'll have to pull the  
timing cover, cam, and remove the front plate, replacing it with one  
that has the holes for the front motor mount so you can then bolt to  
the front crossmember. Such plates are available and can be found on  
ebay, or the stovebolt forum. Or you could drill the holes, but this  
is a tricky business best left to a machinist, and even then you'll  
want a plate to compare it to.

Jonas Thaler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It turned out to be  
a passenger car block.

We are deciding what to do right now.

On Apr 17, 2007, at 6:28 AM, vwnate1 wrote:

Sounds like the wrong engine block for a Task Force truck to me .

-Nate
Jonas wrote:
 
  Again I apologize for repeating myself!
 
  I replaced the block on my 235 in my 59 3200 and now it is built
up
  and ready to install. My mechanic says that the new block is not
  drilled the same way as the old block and he cannot use the same
  mounting plate in the front. He thinks the new block is meant to
  mount in the center,
 
  According to the pictures I took before I removed the old engine
  (before I got my new job and had to hire someone to finish the
truck)
  the old block mounts attached on either side just behind the
timing
  cover.
 
  Is it possible that we got a block that is not compatible with the
  cross member on my 59?
 
  Anybody have a clue? I got one nice reply so far which made me
want
  to go back and re-examine the new block, which I will do next
week.
  But I am still hoping someone knows about these blocks and can
clear
  it up right away
 
  Thanks again so much
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: *Possible SPAM* Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount difficulties

2007-04-18 Thread Jonas Thaler
I found  the manual on line

http://chevy.tocmp.com/1929_57chevyparts/index.htm

Very helpful




On Apr 18, 2007, at 10:03 AM, Jones, Allen wrote:

The group list is set up to strip all attachments. Pictures must be  
posted in the group area or sent directly to an intended recipient.

Allen
'50 3100




From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com on behalf of Jonas Thaler
Sent: Wed 4/18/2007 11:18 AM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Cc: K M Lehmann
Subject: Re: *Possible SPAM* Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount  
difficulties

Very kind of you to help, but I did not get the picture attachment.

---jonas

On Apr 18, 2007, at 8:56 AM, K M Lehmann wrote:

James, if you have the cover plate shown in this picture it can be
drilled.
Lee

1929 - 1957 Chevrolet Master Parts  Accessories Catalog

Click Here to ENLARGE Page in a new window

Alphabetical Index Illustration Index

 Previous Page Index Next Page 

Click Here for the Main Index of Old Online Chevy Manuals

WebCounter says that you are visitor number:

Please Report any Broken Links or Pages that do not load properly.
Webmaster

This Information is for Research and the Promotion of the
Preservation of Older Chevys

All Names, Trademarks and Logos Belong to their Respective Owners.

Web Space Provided by TOCMP

- Original Message -
From: James Tye
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 3:23 AM
Subject: *Possible SPAM* Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount
difficulties

I might be fulla something, but I think you'll have to pull the
timing cover, cam, and remove the front plate, replacing it with one
that has the holes for the front motor mount so you can then bolt to
the front crossmember. Such plates are available and can be found on
ebay, or the stovebolt forum. Or you could drill the holes, but this
is a tricky business best left to a machinist, and even then you'll
want a plate to compare it to.

Jonas Thaler [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: It turned out to be
a passenger car block.

We are deciding what to do right now.

On Apr 17, 2007, at 6:28 AM, vwnate1 wrote:

Sounds like the wrong engine block for a Task Force truck to me .

-Nate
Jonas wrote:
 
  Again I apologize for repeating myself!
 
  I replaced the block on my 235 in my 59 3200 and now it is built
up
  and ready to install. My mechanic says that the new block is not
  drilled the same way as the old block and he cannot use the same
  mounting plate in the front. He thinks the new block is meant to
  mount in the center,
 
  According to the pictures I took before I removed the old engine
  (before I got my new job and had to hire someone to finish the
truck)
  the old block mounts attached on either side just behind the
timing
  cover.
 
  Is it possible that we got a block that is not compatible with the
  cross member on my 59?
 
  Anybody have a clue? I got one nice reply so far which made me
want
  to go back and re-examine the new block, which I will do next
week.
  But I am still hoping someone knows about these blocks and can
clear
  it up right away
 
  Thanks again so much
 

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the  
email), to: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[old-chevy-truck] Front Engine Mount matching problem

2007-04-17 Thread Jonas Thaler
Greetings!


Recently I purchased a rebuilt short block for my 1959 Chevy 3200.

It is now all built up and ready to go in... looking very pretty and  
clean enough to eat off..

My mechanic was about to install the engine today and could not  
because the block did not have holes drilled in the right places for  
the front motor mounts which are correct for the truck, on either  
side of the cross-member.It looks as if the block is intended to  
match up with a center mount, and my mechanic guessed that maybe the  
block is a passenger car block.

Does this predicament sound familiar?  Is there an adapter I can  
purchase which will cradle the engine and allow the mechanic to  
install this block?  Or do I need to change the cross-member?

I can't bear the idea that I might just be OUT OF LUCK

Help!



Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount difficulties

2007-04-17 Thread Jonas Thaler
It turned out to be a passenger car block.

We are deciding what to do right now.






On Apr 17, 2007, at 6:28 AM, vwnate1 wrote:


Sounds like the wrong engine block for a Task Force truck to me .

-Nate
Jonas wrote:
 
  Again I apologize for repeating myself!
 
  I replaced the block on my 235 in my 59 3200 and now it is built
up
  and ready to install. My mechanic says that the new block is not
  drilled the same way as the old block and he cannot use the same
  mounting plate in the front. He thinks the new block is meant to
  mount in the center,
 
  According to the pictures I took before I removed the old engine
  (before I got my new job and had to hire someone to finish the
truck)
  the old block mounts attached on either side just behind the
timing
  cover.
 
  Is it possible that we got a block that is not compatible with the
  cross member on my 59?
 
  Anybody have a clue? I got one nice reply so far which made me
want
  to go back and re-examine the new block, which I will do next
week.
  But I am still hoping someone knows about these blocks and can
clear
  it up right away
 
  Thanks again so much
 






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[old-chevy-truck] Engine mount difficulties

2007-04-15 Thread Jonas Thaler
Again I apologize for repeating myself!

I replaced the block on my 235 in my 59 3200 and now it is built up  
and ready to install.  My mechanic says that the new block is not  
drilled the same way as the old block and he cannot use the same  
mounting plate in the front.  He thinks the new block is meant to  
mount in the center,

According to the pictures I took before I removed the old engine  
(before I got my new job and had to hire someone to finish the truck)  
the old block mounts attached on either side just behind the timing  
cover.

Is it possible that we got a block that is not compatible with the  
cross member on my 59?

Anybody have a clue?  I got one nice reply so far which made me want  
to go back and re-examine the new block, which I will do next week.   
But I am still hoping someone knows about these blocks and can clear  
it up right away

Thanks again so much


Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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[old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine mount difficulties

2007-04-15 Thread Jonas Thaler
Oh I forgot to reply!  The new block is the weird one.   The old one  
had the mounts you described on the sides.   I got it from Jim Carter  
as a short block --- they have not replied yet.  But your solution  
sounds very do-able.  If you ever come across that article, let me  
know how to access it.

I enjoy your postings.  Thanks for the help.

jonas




On Apr 15, 2007, at 8:22 PM, Nate Filth wrote:



Interesting as every '59 I ever saw had the side front
engine mounts...

If it has the one single mount , use the one off the
old engine , you'll need to remove the oil pan to
acess the two inner bolts that screw in through the
front main from _inside_ the engine

There used to be a writup on how to convert the front
mount plate to external bolts .

-Nate
  Jonas  wrote:

 Again I apologize for repeating myself!

 I replaced the block on my 235 in my 59 3200 and now
 it is built up
 and ready to install.  My mechanic says that the new
 block is not
 drilled the same way as the old block and he cannot
 use the same
 mounting plate in the front.  He thinks the new
 block is meant to
 mount in the center,

 According to the pictures I took before I removed
 the old engine
 (before I got my new job and had to hire someone to
 finish the truck)
 the old block mounts attached on either side just
 behind the timing
 cover.

 Is it possible that we got a block that is not
 compatible with the
 cross member on my 59?

 Anybody have a clue?  I got one nice reply so far
 which made me want
 to go back and re-examine the new block, which I
 will do next week.
 But I am still hoping someone knows about these
 blocks and can clear
 it up right away

 Thanks again so much



__
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com




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[old-chevy-truck] Fwd: Front Engine Mount matching problem

2007-04-14 Thread Jonas Thaler
Sorry to post twice, butI forgot to mention this is a 235 full  
pressure engine!  See below:


Greetings!


Recently I purchased a rebuilt short block for my 1959 Chevy 3200.

It is now all built up and ready to go in... looking very pretty and  
clean enough to eat off..

My mechanic was about to install the engine today and could not  
because the block did not have holes drilled in the right places for  
the front motor mounts which are correct for the truck, on either  
side of the cross-member.It looks as if the block is intended to  
match up with a center mount, and my mechanic guessed that maybe the  
block is a passenger car block.

Does this predicament sound familiar?  Is there an adapter I can  
purchase which will cradle the engine and allow the mechanic to  
install this block?  Or do I need to change the cross-member?

I can't bear the idea that I might just be OUT OF LUCK

Help!




Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!

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Re: [old-chevy-truck] cool Luke woody

2007-04-11 Thread Jonas Thaler
COOL HAND LUKE.

Hugely influential film for guys my age.



On Apr 11, 2007, at 12:00 AM, winchester54947 wrote:

I saw the final sequence of the 1967 Paul Newman movie and after he is
shot he's loaded into the back door of the prison warden's vehicle I
want one too. The red Chevy has the hood, emblem, grill, front fenders
and headlites of the 48-54 trucks, but looks like a 4 door station
wagon, not a Suburban? Is this the infamous Sedan Delivery?. What's the
chance of finding one or is this a one of a kind Hollywood creation
with gleaming polished wood sides? I think what we have here is a
failure to communicate. Larry






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] triplicate

2007-03-29 Thread Jonas Thaler
Me too

Me too

Me too

;  )




On Mar 29, 2007, at 6:43 AM, Antonio Tijerino wrote:

You are not the only and this is not the only group, I think there is a
problem with yahoo groups, because I am getting the same with two other
yahoo groups.

Antonio

_

From: Duane Clark [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, March 28, 2007 11:25 PM
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [old-chevy-truck] triplicate

MODERATOR, Why, when I receive a message, do I get three copies of the
message? dalton
- Original Message -
From: Jones, Allen
To: old-chevy-truck@ mailto:old-chevy-truck%40yahoogroups.com
yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 27, 2007 12:50 PM
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] MODERATOR Message

Members,

There was a derelict message posted to the group board earlier today and
it has been summarily deleted and the person summarily kicked off the
list. It accidentally slipped through. Thanks to Bob for pointing this
out. Rob and I work diligently in preapproving members prior to joining
the group and actively monitor the messages to avoid, if not eliminate,
spam, derelict messages, etc. If you find any of these, please let one
of us know so we can address the problem. There is no need to notify us
of **POSSIBLE SPAM** messages from yahoo as we already get those as
well.

This might be a good time to remind members of our charter as shown on
the home page: Dedicated to the preservation and restoration of stock
1941-1959 Chevy and GMC trucks. KEEP IT STOCK! The list is run by a
conservative ex-military type who has children and friends serving their
country, so nothing anti-war or unpatriotic will be tolerated. If you
can't accept that, this is the wrong list for you.

Thanks,
Allen in SD
Moderator
'50 3100

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] 1951 chev pu

2007-03-23 Thread Jonas Thaler
Have you changed out the fuel filter?  Or filters?



On Mar 23, 2007, at 10:13 PM, johnmsaksa wrote:

I have a 1951 chev pu. it has a 235 engine. my question is, when the
truck has been driven 15 to 20 min, its starts to jerk at cruising
speed, like it is missing or running out of gas. does any one know what
this might be. thanks, John






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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[old-chevy-truck] Clutch Fork 1959/235

2007-03-22 Thread Jonas Thaler
Anybody have a tip on how to get a nice NOS (or rebuilt? or excellent  
used?) CLUTCH FORK for a 1959 3200 235 3-spd column shift?

Thanks so much in advance!

jonas


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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Clutch Fork 1959/235

2007-03-22 Thread Jonas Thaler
what a great idea.  doing it RIGHT NOW  thanks


On Mar 22, 2007, at 11:47 AM, Bill wrote:

Have you tried eBay. seach using Chevy clutch fork. Also try expanding
the search to include eBay Stores; they'll appear at the bottom of the
search page after the normal results. ...bill
===
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonas Thaler [EMAIL PROTECTED]
wrote:
 
  Anybody have a tip on how to get a nice NOS (or rebuilt? or
excellent
  used?) CLUTCH FORK for a 1959 3200 235 3-spd column shift?
 
  Thanks so much in advance!
 
  jonas






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[old-chevy-truck] Re: [oletrucks] Need bed trim for 59 GMC Wide Side

2007-01-18 Thread Jonas Thaler
Greetings..

I am casually seeking some fancy trim for my 1959 3200 (I think it  
is!) long bed Fleetside Apache 1/2 ton pickup.   I am referring to  
dual side trim (stainless I assume) which ends at an extended sort of  
wraparound tail light bezel which has some oblong slots in it.  These  
slots frame some red plastic which is either a side reflector or an  
extension of  red light coming from the tail light lens.

I have only seen these in pictures.

In addition to framing the conatrasting tone area on the side with  
shiny metal accent lines, they appear to be an upgrade to the regular  
circular taill light bezels.

That was not easy to describe!

Anybody know anything about these and anybody have a decent set that  
I could add to my truck?  Just a whim, but then the whole truck is  
just a whim so why stop adding love to it?

=-=-=jonas






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 235 - complete

2007-01-10 Thread Jonas Thaler
A while ago a guy offered me a 261 engine --  I am pasting in his  
email from October 16.  He might still have it.I think it was on  
Craig's List.

==jonas





From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject:Re: Chevy 235 6 cylinder - $800
Date:   October 16, 2006 4:36:18 PM PDT
To:   [EMAIL PROTECTED]

It sounds like you have it right.
The way you will learn more about this is by doing what you are doing.
Inline sixes are extremely good motors and while they don't put out the
high RPM horses that a v-8 does they do everything else better.
They produce more torque at lower rpms, they run quieter, cooler and get
better mileage, they are perfect truck motors and will run as smooth as
a sewing machine or can be hopped up for more performance.
The v-8 was adopted because they are less expensive to manufacture.

A short block refers to the block and everything in it, minus the head.
Block, pistons, rods, crank, bearings, cam, oil pump etc.
I don't know if he meant a built shortblock or a rebuildable core, if
he's thinking of building a motor for you then he probably means a core.

I would want $600 for my 261 + $150 if you wanted the rods.
They are beefier than the 235 rods.
A well built 235 will last 150,000 miles

Ray


http://community.webtv.net/RAYVARELLA/WelcometoVarellas



On Jan 10, 2007, at 6:32 AM, vwnate1 wrote:


 Jim ;

 You didn't mention the price (if any) ? .

 Didja go _LOOK_ at it ? once in a while it'll turn out to be a 261

 I might be in O.C. friday and I sure do want a 261...

 THANX ! .

 -Nate
 Jim wrote:
 
  The shop that did the work on my truck has a complete 235 that they
  would like to get rid of. They say it ran when it was pulled.
 They
  know I am into this old stock iron and asked me to help find it a
 good
  home. If you need a good 235 give them a call and make them an
 offer.
 
  Aut Tek
  Orange, CA
  (714) 685-0801
  Ask for Tom.
 
  Tell him you were referred by Jim Karras on the old-chevy-truck
 Yahoo!
  Groups List.
 
  Jim Karras
  Orange, CA
  '59 Chevrolet Apache 32 Stepside Pickup
  E-mail: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Internet: http://www.59apache.com/
 


 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: V8 in a 1951 Truck

2007-01-01 Thread Jonas Thaler
Deve, I agree with you about hot rods, but I also like eating fish  
eggs. And accordion music.

So I guess we all live in glass houses.

I remind myself how much these guys (and gals too) love these hot  
rods.  It is a cultural fact that hot rodding and customizing cars in  
general are American art forms which long ago transcended their  
original transportation context.

I grew up building plastic models of Ed Big Daddy Roth's Rat Fink et  
al (and we would frequently enjoy exploding them with cherry bombs)  
and inventing my own wild*ss death-machines out of spare parts.  Mr  
Roth's machines are now displayed in high-end galleries from time to  
time and owned by museums.  Not CAR museums, but ART museums.

My favorite memories (from New Mexico) are my nursery school teacher  
picking us up in her Model A and my father borrowing his friend's 37  
Chevy pickup to go steal sand from the desert for our new sand box.   
And moving to Ohio (to a five year old Ohio, Iowa and Idaho are the  
same place!) and counting the Impalas and DeSotos and Oldsmobiles  
(which looked like they were crying) -- and the wonderful hard  
worming trucks with smiles on their faces.  The stock trucks had  
enough color and fantasy built into them already for a five year old,  
and for a fifty-year old it remains just as powerful.

jt




On Jan 1, 2007, at 8:08 AM, Deve wrote:

 I am one weird cookie because personally, I don't care if GOD  
 bought it, its
 sacriledge to hack up one of these trucks, cut the frame, move the  
 steering
 gearbox, etc, etc to put a power plant in the truck that changes  
 the weight
 and balance characteristics, makes the brake system less efficient,  
 changes
 the wear and tear characteristics of the rest of the parts in the
 drivetrain, and basically trashes a once beautiful piece of our  
 heritage. I
 say the same thing every time I see a vintage ford car that someone  
 made
 into a rod.

 Make no mistake, its MY problem, but its noteworthy for people who  
 are on
 the edge, deciding, do I keep it basically original, or do I make  
 a hotrod
 out of it to know that there are people in this world that CRINGE  
 everytime
 they see a hotrod that could have been a classic.

 Deve
 www.speedprint.com/Deves50

 -Original Message-
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of vwnate1
 Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 12:58 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Re: V8 in a 1951 Truck


 



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] AD CUP HOLDER

2006-12-28 Thread Jonas Thaler
i like the duct tape idea.  No modifications to the truck necessary.   
And in an emergency, you always have that useful tape at hand...


On Dec 28, 2006, at 11:49 AM, Daron Nettles wrote:

 Growing up the only time my Parents and grand parents drank coffee  
 while driving, My mom or grandmother would pour just an inch out of  
 the thermos into the cap. The only thing close to a cup holder is  
 the glovebox door. Why dont we take an old magnet out of a speaker  
 and attach it to a cheap cup holder and just use the glovebox door?  
 No holes to drill, not too far to reach, removable... Lets see  
 who can make the best lookin one. Daron

 Larry R. Kephart [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: That is one neat idea,  
 Charlie! Thanks!

 -Original Message-
 From: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of tikuayla
 Sent: Thursday, December 28, 2006 2:11 PM
 To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
 Subject: [old-chevy-truck] AD CUP HOLDER

 Hi Ever'body, Nate n Larry, I picked up an older version swiveling  
 drink
 holder at a boating swap meet a few years back that has a double  
 swivel. I
 made an attachment for the cup holder that I bolted to one of the  
 holes on
 the bottom of my dash that I secure with a thumb screw so I can  
 loosen it
 and rotate the cup holder back under the dash almost outa sight.
 My cup holder sits about 2 inches from the dash and about 1 inch  
 below the
 dash, in between where my gear shift hits granny first and third on  
 my four
 speed. It is chrome and looks sorta 50's period in its design. You  
 can buy
 new swivel cup holders at most boat supply places. I'll bet Nate  
 and Larry
 could pop one of these out in a few minutes, especially Larry K,  
 being so
 close to all of those boating shops in FL. When I don't use it for  
 a cup
 holder, I put my cell phone in it. Charlie in cool AZ

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: crooks

2006-12-23 Thread Jonas Thaler
This (below) is good advice.  And Herb, you are doing this to protect  
your personal property, not to hurt anyone else or even to seek revenge.

This mechanic is exhibiting narcissistic and irrational behavior  
sadly not uncommon in the automotive repair world.   The sooner you  
remove yourself and your truck from his influence, the happier and  
wealthier you will be.   There will be a cost to this, but it will be  
money and time well spent.  It will really test how much you love old  
trucks! By the way I love the idea of putting the stuff in your  
own storage and clearing your head before you tackle the job yourself...

My rant:  I have never understood why service crafts attract people  
who are marginal in their ability to focus mentally, organize their  
time , assess job size and complete tasks.  But if you have ever  
remodeled your house and don't have a good contractor or know your  
own pool of labor, you may be opening your home up to a parade of  
drinkers, gamblers and borderline losers.   It is the same with auto  
repairers...  Many of them are talented but for one reason or another  
are damaged goods.

But I guess this is why successful people are often simply people who  
are fortunate enough to be mentally healthy and understand hard work  
and its rewards.   You can learn a trade in a few years, but   you  
either have a basic work ethic or you don't.  I think the same can be  
said for honesty in business.  You either have the gene which makes  
you feel horrible when you know you are cheating somebody, or you don't.

Happy Holidays from one amateur psychologist and lover of old machines.

jt


On Dec 23, 2006, at 10:12 AM, littlebuddytoo wrote:

 Hello Herb,
 I also feel for you and your problem. Your mechanic feels very
 comfortable at this point,taking complete advantage of your good
 nature and patience. This person could now be leveled criminally
 through your local law enforcement agency. Don't even bother with the
 Better Business Bureau at this point as it will be another 10 months
 before they even read your case. This person has committed theft by
 keeping your personal property hostage long past any reasonable time
 element acceptable for the job to be completed. He has committed
 larceny by taking your money and not performing agreed upon service
 and has also committed a breach of contract. Just the act of
 disassembling your truck and letting it sit without repair is akin to
 distruction of your personal property. I could think of other
 violations if I had more information on your situation. I would
 sincerely contact a Police agency for advice and support.

 littlebuddie


 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Engine Identification

2006-11-12 Thread Jonas Thaler
You may find that the rattle can approach will cost you a lot more  
than a modest paint job at a body shop.  These trucks present a  
pretty big surface area and one spray can probably only covers a  
small area.  And they may or not be batch controlled.  And I think  
they are extremely unfriendly to the environment.  And you run the  
risk of developing an RSI (Repetitive Stress Injury) in the joints of  
your fingers trying  to keep that little button pressed down for  
hours and hours.   Orthopedic surgeons specializing in the hand  
charge more than Maaco or even Earl Scheib!  And those little plastic  
nozzles clog up like crazy!

That was fun  Got anything else you want an unsolicited opinion on?

jt






On Nov 12, 2006, at 12:33 PM, REM Wilson WY wrote:

 Nate, almost anything will outlast me! I admire the members  
 that are doing a full restore of their trucks. I am only trying to  
 do a rebuild. The only thing that will not be stock will be 12  
 volt. I even decided to use the original split rims. In the end it  
 will be a farm truck with a rattle can paint job.

 I will check the fittings and see what size they are. What puzzles  
 me is the guys seem to indicate all blocks have a cast number and I  
 can't find one. I could find one on my 1950 but not on the 1952.  
 The block is clean so it is not covered with gunk. I forgot to  
 mention that the oil breather pipe has a rubber line that connects  
 to the air cleaner if this will help.

 In a message dated 11/12/06 12:37:26 Mountain Standard  
 Time,[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Well ;

 It has a 261 low compression cylinder head on it so you're either
 got a 261 or a 235 with a 261 head on it . either way , you've got a
 good engine that'll outlast you if you take care of it .

 If the oil gauge and filter fitting on the left side of the
 cylinder block are 3/4 (may have brass bushings to bring them down
 to 1/8) , you've likely got a 261 on your hands .

 Do you need the tune up specs and etc. ? they're all listed right
 here in the archives if you do the search .

 Sounds to me like you've worked hard to save ' just another old
 truck ' back to a cool vintage vehicle that's not only fun to drive
 but ready to work , too ! .

 -Nate
 Bob wrote:
 
  I need some help with my engine Identification. I have been
 working for over two years on my 1952 3600/5W, working from the back
 bumper to the front. Removed Ford rear axle, replaced broken front
 springs, new shocks and complete new brakes and lines. (feel it is
 more important to stop than to go). Rebuilt the bed and milled new
 floor boards. I have finally arrived at the engine. My truck has
 turned out to be a Heinz 57 varieties.
 
  Here is all the information I can get from the head and block. All
 is painted red.
 
  The head has 3836850 and GM4 cast into the top by and on the
 carburetor side. On the plug side at the top over the 3rd plug from
 the front is cast B35 8 8. The valve cover is held down by 4 screws
 and the oil filler cap is at the front rather than at the center.
 
  The block has C O N 4 124 cast above and somewhat hidden behind
 the starter. In front of the starter and just behind the distributor
 there is
  stamped on a flat that sticks out at a 45 degree angle 0 I 0 3 3
 I 8 F 5 5 U. The ones are really the letter I but I believe this was
 normal for GM to do. Cast at the front of the block is GM with 12
 above it. The side plate appears to be 5 to 6 inches tall.
 
  I have not had any luck finding this engine listed. Could it be a
 car engine?
 
  Bob Moore
  1952 3604/5W
  1950 3609/3W
 
 
  [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
 

 [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 235 Block

2006-10-23 Thread Jonas Thaler
Thanks for the vivid picture of the re-bored cylinder(s) failing!

I have found several blocks and a whole engine or two, just not sure  
how to evaluate them.  It wold be nice not to inherit the same  
problems again --or new ones.  I will ask the machine shop about the  
measurements.

I am backing off from the 261 idea because I am neither rich nor  
dedicated and everyone tells me what a fine engine the 235 is.

Thanks so much for this advice.===jt



On Oct 23, 2006, at 6:32 AM, vwnate1 wrote:


 _DON'T_ bore over .030 ! it'll run way too hot and may well drop a
 cylinder wall right when you least need that .

 Good used 235's are plentiful and cheap .

 I know a lister here who may have a line on a used 235 or two right
 here in Sunny So. Cal. Riverside County . I imagine he'll ping you
 off list if they're available .

 If you're rich or dedicated , the 261 is a bolt in -but- you need
 the entire short block with the 261 rods else I'd not pay much for it
 you can use your old 235 head without drilling the steam holes if
 you've never overheated before...

 Stem holes are nice though , be sure you can find a 261 head gasket
 before you drill those holes ! .

 SOME (not all !) 261's are set up for full flow oil filters (3/4
 holes in the block) so nake sure and if it has the 3/4 oil holes
 get the oil filter ! .

 What is wrong with your old block ? scored cylinders or just too
 much taper ? how much taper ?(note : ' a lot ' is a B.S. answer and
 means your machine shop isn't any good)

 Good luck hunting and keep us posted .

 -Nate
 Jonas wrote:
 
  Greetings~
 
  I might need a good rebuildable 235 block for my 1959 3200 if
 anyone
  has a nice juicy one,
 
  My engine is in pieces now at a really reputable racing engine
 shop
  in my area. The machine shop says they MIGHT not be able to find
  oversize pistons because the cylinders will have to be bored out
 to a
  larger size than is commonly available (I want to say .70 but I
 can't
  remember for sure...) And sleeving the six cylinders back to
 factory
  size is supposed to be expensive. By now you can see that I am
 new
  at this...
 
  I have been offered a rebuildable 261 block but am a bit nervous
  about the interchangability. I don't want to bite off any bigger
  jobs than I already have. (Not that I don't enjoy this stuff, but
 I
  have a busy job and travel a lot and spare time is elusive!) But
 the
  extra power of the 261 sounds very tempting. The owner of the
 engine
  says everything is the same except a steam hole that has to be
  drilled in the block to match the head or vice versa.
 
  Sigh. I love my truck and it's my third one (64 Chevy 1/2 ton
 hippie
  truck I had in college onto which I built a really impressive
 redwood
  camper, and another college conveyance, a massive 3/4 ton 50 GMC
 in
  which the brakes needed pumping up all the time and one day the
 pedal
  got stuck in the floor boards and the truck jumped the curb on
 campus
  at lunch hour and knocked over a mailbox, finally easing to a
 stop.
  Nobody was hurt, there wasn't a scratch on the truck, and I got
 out
  of there in a hurry because I did not have any money and, well it
 was
  a long time ago and I am still ashamed of it!
 
  Anyone with a good block for me in the Southern California area
 or
  willing to ship one for the right price, please contact me. I
 want
  to be ready for the bad news Monday when I call the machine shop.
  Thanks
 
  jt
 


 



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[old-chevy-truck] 235 Block

2006-10-22 Thread Jonas Thaler
Greetings~

I might need a good rebuildable 235 block for my 1959 3200 if anyone  
has a nice juicy one,

My engine is in pieces now at a really reputable racing engine shop  
in my area.  The machine shop says they MIGHT not be able to find  
oversize pistons because the cylinders will have to be bored out to a  
larger size than is commonly available (I want to say .70 but I can't  
remember for sure...)  And sleeving the six cylinders back to factory  
size is supposed to be expensive.  By now you can see that I am new  
at this...

I have been offered a rebuildable 261 block but am a bit nervous  
about the interchangability.  I don't want to bite off any bigger  
jobs than I already have.  (Not that I don't enjoy this stuff, but I  
have a busy job and travel a lot and spare time is elusive!)  But the  
extra power of the 261 sounds very tempting.  The owner of the engine  
says everything is the same except a steam hole that has to be  
drilled in the block to match the head or vice versa.

Sigh.  I love my truck and it's my third one (64 Chevy 1/2 ton hippie  
truck I had in college onto which I built a really impressive redwood  
camper, and another college conveyance, a massive 3/4 ton 50 GMC in  
which the brakes needed pumping up all the time and one day the pedal  
got stuck in the floor boards and the truck jumped the curb on campus  
at lunch hour and knocked over a mailbox,  finally easing to a stop.   
Nobody was hurt, there wasn't a scratch on the truck, and I got out  
of there in a hurry because I did not have any money and, well it was  
a long time ago and I am still ashamed of it!

Anyone with a good block for me in the Southern California area or  
willing to ship one for the right price, please contact me.  I want  
to be ready for the bad news Monday when I call the machine shop.
Thanks

jt






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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: 235 Block

2006-10-22 Thread Jonas Thaler
Thanks!

jonas



On Oct 22, 2006, at 5:29 AM, Bill wrote:

 You might look thru the Links option at the top left of web site
 page. Many suppliers have a web site which might give prices for a
 rebuilt engine. Or they offer catalogs, some for $5, which list what
 they have to offer. There are pitfalls to be avoided with the older
 engines, and getting a short block is a way around these. For
 example, Jim Carter Classic Truck Parts has a short block for $1385.
 ==
 --- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jonas Thaler
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  Greetings~
 
  I might need a good rebuildable 235 block for my 1959 3200 if
 anyone has a nice juicy one,
 
  My engine is in pieces now at a really reputable racing engine
 shop
  in my area. The machine shop says they MIGHT not be able to find
  oversize pistons because the cylinders will have to be bored out
 to a
  larger size than is commonly available (I want to say .70 but I
 can't
  remember for sure...) And sleeving the six cylinders back to
 factory
  size is supposed to be expensive. By now you can see that I am
 new
  at this...
 
  I have been offered a rebuildable 261 block but am a bit nervous
  about the interchangability. I don't want to bite off any bigger
  jobs than I already have. (Not that I don't enjoy this stuff, but
 I
  have a busy job and travel a lot and spare time is elusive!) But
 the
  extra power of the 261 sounds very tempting. The owner of the
 engine
  says everything is the same except a steam hole that has to be
  drilled in the block to match the head or vice versa.
 
  Sigh. I love my truck and it's my third one (64 Chevy 1/2 ton
 hippie
  truck I had in college onto which I built a really impressive
 redwood
  camper, and another college conveyance, a massive 3/4 ton 50 GMC
 in
  which the brakes needed pumping up all the time and one day the
 pedal
  got stuck in the floor boards and the truck jumped the curb on
 campus
  at lunch hour and knocked over a mailbox, finally easing to a
 stop.
  Nobody was hurt, there wasn't a scratch on the truck, and I got
 out
  of there in a hurry because I did not have any money and, well it
 was
  a long time ago and I am still ashamed of it!
 
  Anyone with a good block for me in the Southern California area
 or
  willing to ship one for the right price, please contact me. I
 want
  to be ready for the bad news Monday when I call the machine shop.
  Thanks
 
  jt
 


 



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Re: [old-chevy-truck] Re: Gas Tank Restoration

2006-09-09 Thread Jonas Thaler
Not to mention name brands but what about Coca-Cola?  (Half joking...)



On Sep 9, 2006, at 7:48 AM, vwnate1 wrote:



 Acetone is the stuff to use , as much as he can afford and have him
 toss in a BIG handfull of _clean_ sheet metal screws , nuts 
 washers to help scrape off the crud in the corners faster  easier
 as he shakes the bejeebers out of it ~ this is the hard part , takes
 lots and lots of shaking and turning the tank as there will be
 sludge  varnish in the botton and rusty crud in the top , all of it
 must be scraped and then drained out , I like to strain through a
 BIG funnel lined with felt scraps so I can not only re-cover my
 hardware but this also allows you to re-use the liquid medium a
 couple times to help rinse the tank .

 Then pour in a gallon or two of Phosphoric Acid and slosh that all
 around to dissolve the remaining rust .

 DO NOT use Muriatic Acid ! (swimming pool) this eats the good
 metal , Phosphoric Acid cannot damage good metal .

 Good luck with the J-D , we had a '35 Model A and a '37 Model B John
 Deer tractors on the farm when I was a laddie , good tractors if a
 bit slow .

 This is a very freindly group so post your name at the end of each
 post to garner better  more replies .

 -Nate
 mciolli wrote:
 
  Hello all. I've a question for the group regarding removing
  the varnish sediment left behind in an old gas tank. The tank in
  question is off of a '65 John Deere, but I'm guessing some of
 those
  here have encountered this. I went thru the archives and found
 some
  references to restoring tanks, but none that I found recommended
 what
  type of solvent to use to remove the varnish. My friend that's
  restoring the tractor had some success with Gum Cutter (Acetone,
  Toluene, Xylene carb cleaner), but the quantity required would
 cost way
  too much. He dumped a quart of Acetone in the tank and said it
 seemed
  to cut it, but he's not sure if this is the best and/or most
 readily
  available solvent to use. One of the archived posts suggested
 taking
  the tank to a radiator repair shop and having it boiled, but he's
  trying to clean it on his own if it doesn't cost a bundle. Since a
  repop tank isn't available he's limited to cleaning/reusing the
 tank he
  has. Any suggestions the group has would be greatly appreciated.
 


 



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