Re: OT: What to see in Milwaukee
Thanks Bob, I'll pass the word along. William in Utah. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: William, Milwaukee is a great city. Big enough to have big city attractions and small enough to still be a friendly place. Others can give you some camera store tips as I haven't lived in Wisconsin for 19 years. I wouldn't miss the lakeshore. Lake Michigan is great. 150 years ago, Milwaukee and Chicago were seaports for sailing ships. The Zoo is world class with a natural setting like the San Diego Zoo. And the German heritage makes for some interesting eating. Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have a Pentax buddy that may be heading to Milwaukee on business later this month. He is not sure if he wants to go and is looking for an additional incentive. So, what is there to do and see from a photographic point of view in Milwaukee? Any good Pentax camera stores? Any good places to shop for used Pentax gear? Any suggestions welcome. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Eliot Porter's In Wildness... ebay listing (mine)
Hi, www.abebooks.com has over 250 of them, ranging in price from $1.50 to $200, although the $200- is definitely an outlier. The higher prices are of course for good 1st editions. --- Bob mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Wednesday, July 03, 2002, 1:03:30 AM, you wrote: With 5 hours to go, I don't have a bid on this... can't imagine why. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1545974742 Any of you want it? Is this so plentiful that my price is too high? annsan the perplexed - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Pesaro, Italy
Raimo Korhonen wrote: Are there going to be any PDMLers in the Pesaro area during the next 2 weeks? I will. Would be nice to meet. ... Hello Raimo, it would be nice indeed to meet, but I don't think I'll be able to get there a is quite far from Rome. If you plan to come south to visit some other place perhaps we can arrange it. Dario lives in Ravenna, not too far from Pesaro and you could be able to get some of the famous Pentax poster!! For Gianfranco and the rest of the romans there are the same distance related difficulties but maybe they enjoy more freedom than me... Ciao, Flavio - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: LX SCA flash: CORDS
Hi, I would like to use my LX with offcamera flash (I have WR Metz), using the LX's front TTL socket. WR Which Metz? WR William Robb Bill, it's 40MZ3i (I just bought), and my older 300 series flashes (36CT3,35CT2, which I will be selling now since I got the 40MZ). Rob, the 373 accepts what kind of wires? 4P? or the special LX-TTL? And it ends in a 10pin Metz wire for 45/60 series? Did I get it right? Or does it need another Metz/Pentax wire from LX-TTL to 4P to the 373? Thanks Best regards, Frantisek Vlcek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Spotmatic SP1000 top removal
Thank you all who responded to my question. I am sorry I didn't reply earlier, I was quite busy these few days. I have been inside the spottie already (to clean and lube the shutter spindles), but never yet under the top cover. The battery chamber I checked first, then I checked the connection under the switch under the front standard. All working. So it must be something in the prism area, either bad meter coil or bad soldering (hopefully). The pitfall of the reverse-threaded screw under the wind lever is very good to know, thanks! I would really hate having to trash the entire assembly if I busted this one screw (or dremel cutting a slot into what would be left of the screw once the head snapped off). Again, thank you all for a very good description. Also I thank very much these who replied off-list. I will keep you posted what the culprit was :) Good light, Frantisek Vlcek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: LX Focussing probem
Hi Peter, - put the camera onto a tripot. - glue a transparent tape ( TESA ) over the shutter window or remove the screen and put it with as much care as possible to the film plane ( with the correct side ). - turn the lens to infinity. - set the camera to B, release and let the shutter stay open. If the picture on this screen is OK, then the mirror is misaligned. Before buying, ask at Pentax about the costs. Maybe the momentary owner is not willing to reduce the price accordingly. regards Bernd - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Cost of used A 85mm f1.4
Dear all, I am sorry if this has been discussed in previous mails, but I was wondering if anyone can give me an idea of an approximate cost of used A 85mm f1.4 in very good conditions. I may have the chance to pick one up for 500Euros (or US$), if its still in the shop that is Thanks Michele Sign up for SBC Yahoo! Dial - First Month Free http://sbc.yahoo.com - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re[2]: C41color film developing, how hard is it ?
Hi Bruce and Bill, I agree you can't do it cheaper that that, but you missed the point :-) I like to have control over the whole process, not having to wait for processing when I want to work on it immediately. And to know that any scratches, dust and fingerprints are MINE and not the result of careless lab processing. Cost is not really the issue. (BTW, they took 3 days and over $3 here to do a 120 color film overhere) The most important question is, are there chemicals that can be mixed in quantities for a single (or at most 2) films ? Or are they even available pre-packaged in those small quantities ? Regards, JvW On Tue, 2 Jul 2002 14:46:45 -0700, Bruce Dayton wrote: My local lab (semi-pro) develops C-41 35mm or 120 for $2.29 per roll. They come back sleeved and uncut. I wouldn't think that you could do it much cheaper than that. Bruce Dayton Tuesday, July 02, 2002, 2:10:36 PM, you wrote: BO Jan, BO I've recently gotten back into processing too. BW and E-6 are really easy, BO especially with something along the line of a Jobo processor. C-41 would BO probably be easy too, but many of the minilabs around here will process, no BO prints, C-41, both 35mm and 120 for $2.00 or less. This is much cheaper and BO quicker than doing it yourself that it's not really worthwhile investing in BO the chemistry to process color negative film. BO Hope this helps. BO Bill Hi, Having added a 67II to my Pentax arsenal, and trying to get the whole process under control, I am thinking of doing that last step myself too: develop the film myself. -- Jan van Wijk; http://www.dfsee.com/gallery - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: 6x7 Lens and extension tubes; 67II on auto ?
On Tue, 2 Jul 2002 16:28:18 -0600, William Robb wrote: The auto tubes provide for automatic aperture operation, but not for open aperture metering, which must be accomplished with the lens stopped down. Which leads to another question: When using a lens with such an 'automatic' tube on a 67II with the AE prism and using the A setting (automatic exposure). Do you need to stop down the lens manually before taking the picture ? Or is the actual measurement of exposure done AFTER the lens aperture is closed down but BEFORE the mirror goes UP ??? Anyone know ? I will try to experiment a bit with that, but it probably takes real test-exposures to tell for sure ... Regards, JvW -- Jan van Wijk; http://www.dfsee.com/gallery - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re[4]: C41color film developing, how hard is it ?
Hi Jan, Occasionally I've been doing C-41 processing some years ago, and found it an easier and more forgiving process than E-6. To answer your question - I'm afraid you won't be able to find a C-41 kit sized for less than 600 ml and 7 x 135-36 rolls. The good news is that freshly prepared solutions can be stored for 2 weeks (tightly capped in bottles with minimum of air volume). So you can work around by using only half of the volume within a 300 ml tank. Don't even think of dividing the concentrates, as with these small quantities the precise measuring is questionable and could greatly affect the concentration of the diluted solutions. Servus, Alin Jan wrote: JvW Cost is not really the issue. JvW (BTW, they took 3 days and over $3 here to do a 120 color film overhere) JvW The most important question is, are there chemicals that can be mixed JvW in quantities for a single (or at most 2) films ? JvW Or are they even available pre-packaged in those small quantities ? - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
For the Brotherhood
Jan van Wilk's last post concerned the A automatic setting on the 67II AE finder and wondered if the Auto Extension tubes would allow the body to operate in the Auto mode. I don't have the answer. However, I thought he meant the A setting on the lens. since my lenses are the older Takumars, I thought I would check and see if the later lenses had an A setting. Well, the zooms, 75 f2.8 and the new 100 macro do!! It this the signs of further exciting things (jump in here Pål) coming from PENTAX? Do any of the brothers have any of these lenses and care to comment? Bob Rapp [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: RE: LX Focussing probem
Hi, Here is my take on the LX problem: 1. It cannot be the lens because the peoplem occurs with various lenses. 2. It may be that the screen does not sit properly. Take it out, inspect it for damage, check the screen bed for dirt or other obstacles, then put the screen back in. 3. The rubber rest(s) underneath the mirror are not properly aligned or are beginning to desintegrate (is there only one rest or two? I forget). Lock the mirror up, inspect them. Apply slight pressure. How do they react? If they are beginning to get sticky, sticky mirror is around the corner. If they are not sticky, then they are not properly aligned. Bernd's procedure for testing the mirror alignment is a very good one, but one minor adjustment needs to be made --- do not set the lens to infinity (infinity is not always exactly there where it is marked). Instead, focus very well on a close object, then check if the image on the film plane is sharp. - put the camera onto a tripod. - glue a transparent tape ( TESA ) over the shutter window - turn the lens to infinity. - set the camera to B, release and let the shutter stay open. If the picture on this screen is OK, then the mirror is misaligned. Cheers, Boz - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
re: For the Brotherhood
Perhaps, answering my own question. I was thrown off by Pentax's US site. There they show a 75mm f2.8 with the A setting on the aperature ring. Well, the illustration is the 645 75 f2.8. Oh, well. Bob Rapp [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Max. # of B/W film.
Hi all! I have currently shot 2 rolls of Black and white films (Kodak Academy 200 ASA); one was uprated to 400 ASA and the other as such. Presently, Ilford PAN 100 uprated to 200 ASA is in my camera. I have a 300 ml negetive developing tank in which two rolls of film can be simultaneously developed. I shall like to know the maximum number of B/W films that can be developed with one batch of developer. I generally use Kodak D-76 developer at 1:1 dilution. Thanks is advance. With kind regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
LX Unsharpness (2)
Hi guys, thanks for all the clever and helfull advice. Just one more clue for those who are still interested: The unsharpness increases uppwards in the viewfinder, i.e. while the image is sharp in the lower part it is unsharp in the upp half. Does that indicate problem with mirror alignment? Thanks Peter Peter Smekal Uppsala, Sweden [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
FA: 67 165mm LS
Hi Folks. To pay for the shipping on my new 20 paper processor, I have decided to put my 165mm LS (for 6x7, 67, 67ii) up for auction on ebay. The condition is Like new, but no box or bag. The glass, functioning, and cosmetics are 100%. sigh - hate having to lose a lens like this, but it's been used twice! The item is going for BIN=$650 - slightly less than BH\Adorama\KEH's used price, but starts at $450 - a very good price, I think you will agree! http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=1363971054 Thanks, Oliverl - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
- Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee Hi all! I have currently shot 2 rolls of Black and white films (Kodak Academy 200 ASA); one was uprated to 400 ASA and the other as such. Presently, Ilford PAN 100 uprated to 200 ASA is in my camera. I have a 300 ml negetive developing tank in which two rolls of film can be simultaneously developed. I shall like to know the maximum number of B/W films that can be developed with one batch of developer. I generally use Kodak D-76 developer at 1:1 dilution. Thanks is advance. With kind regards, Ayash. As long as the developer covers the film, you will not have any trouble. If you are using a rotary processor (JOBO) use more developer. In the past, I have developed up to 3 rolls in a 4 roll tank and the result is the same as if I had done them one at a time. The important thing, during agitation, more uniform results will be obtained if the developer completely uncovers the film. Otherwise, the top roll may receive non-uniform development. FWIW. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: LX Unsharpness (2)
- Original Message - From: Peter Smekal [EMAIL PROTECTED] The unsharpness increases uppwards in the viewfinder, i.e. while the image is sharp in the lower part it is unsharp in the upp half. Does that indicate problem with mirror alignment? Thanks Peter Really looks like that the screen carrier is not fully seated! Alignment of the mirror would cause more of an image shift viewed vs taken. I had that problem with my LX and was about to send it in when, after an exposure, the screen and holder fell down. Drop the screen and make sure it fits the frame properly and then snap it back up. My problem was that it was not fully snapped back into place. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
Hallo Bob! From your reply it seems to me that there is no limit to the number of films for batch processing. Do you mean that I can develop as many number of films as I wish provided that the two films in my developing tank is totally covered by the developer? Well, as far as I think, the developer will get used up more and more as I go on using the same solution so a time will come when the strength of the developer will not be enough to carry on the chemical action. Or it may happen like this. I have to allow longer time for developement if I am using the same solution for more than four rolls. Please correct me, if I am incorrect? Let me frame the question in a more precise manner. Can I use the same devoloper at 1:1 dilution for developing four rolls of black and white film in a developing tank which accepts only two rolls at a time? Do you suggest some other dilution or no dilution? Thanks for your comments. With kind regards, Ayash. On Wed, 3 Jul 2002, Bob Rapp wrote: As long as the developer covers the film, you will not have any trouble. If you are using a rotary processor (JOBO) use more developer. In the past, I have developed up to 3 rolls in a 4 roll tank and the result is the same as if I had done them one at a time. The important thing, during agitation, more uniform results will be obtained if the developer completely uncovers the film. Otherwise, the top roll may receive non-uniform development. FWIW. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: LX Unsharpness (2)
- Original Message - From: Peter Smekal Subject: LX Unsharpness (2) Hi guys, thanks for all the clever and helfull advice. Just one more clue for those who are still interested: The unsharpness increases uppwards in the viewfinder, i.e. while the image is sharp in the lower part it is unsharp in the upp half. Does that indicate problem with mirror alignment? Check to see if the screen is properly mounted, but most likely it is the rubber mirror rest that is either missing, turned to goop, or otherwise out of position. Rob Studdert has information about the mirror rest on his website. I made my own one time out of a bit of motorcycle inner tube. It worked perfectly for years, then fell out and was lost. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Cost of used A 85mm f1.4
Michele, Buy the lens NOW ! ! ! Our very own Cotty is selling his on eBay right now. His initial price is just over 1,000$ US. I have seen several go for this kind of price on eBay. Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I am sorry if this has been discussed in previous mails, but I was wondering if anyone can give me an idea of an approximate cost of used A 85mm f1.4 in very good conditions. I may have the chance to pick one up for 500Euros (or US$), if its still in the shop that is - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: OT: What to see in Milwaukee
William: When he gets here, have him call me and I could give him an itinerary of things to do. Right now Summerfest is going on, with all the music, ethnic foods and drinks that go with it. Virtually every weekend there is another ethnic festival and that continues through to October. Plenty of picture opportunities. We're the World headquarters for Harley Davidson and Briggs Stratton. Harley is always interesting. We've a world class zoo, museum, an interesting park called the domes with lots of floral and theme settings. Lots of parks and lakes. A new world class art museum, that the building itself is exceptionally photogenic. Alongside we have a home built 1800's schooner thats available for lake tours. Symphony, ballet, baseball (this year the All-Star game), Miller Park (baseball stadium), and I could go on. Anything else of interest, just ask. Paul Gutkowski Milwaukee, Wi. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re[2]: C41color film developing, how hard is it ?
- Original Message - From: Jan van Wijk Subject: Re: Re[2]: C41color film developing, how hard is it ? Hi Bruce and Bill, I agree you can't do it cheaper that that, but you missed the point :-) No surprise there. The most important question is, are there chemicals that can be mixed in quantities for a single (or at most 2) films ? I think the kits that I have seen that are sourced from Europe (Agfa and Tetenal) mix to 1 liter of chemistry. I suspect that will do 6 or 8 rolls of film. I wouldn't try to split the concentrates, but you can store the mixed developer in glass in the fridge to keep it fresh. The developer is quite stable, and the bleach/fix will last pretty much forever in storage. C-41 is incredibly easy in the Jobo. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: LX Unsharpness (2)
Peter, I bought an LX and discovered alignment problems. I had the mirror bumper changed and didn't let the local shop do much else. Several months later, I had sticky mirror syndrome and sent it to Pentax. I don't think you are going to avoid a CLA on that LX. The mirror movement is complicated (watch it closely!). It is not just a simple swinging motion from a single hinge point. You have problems with where the mirror is coming to rest. And you will have more problems in a short while if you correct just this one. Regards, Bob S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi guys, thanks for all the clever and helfull advice. Just one more clue for those who are still interested: The unsharpness increases uppwards in the viewfinder, i.e. while the image is sharp in the lower part it is unsharp in the upp half. Does that indicate problem with mirror alignment? - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
On Wed, 3 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote: - Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 5:34 AM Subject: Max. # of B/W film. Hi all! I have currently shot 2 rolls of Black and white films (Kodak Academy 200 ASA); one was uprated to 400 ASA and the other as such. Presently, Ilford PAN 100 uprated to 200 ASA is in my camera. I have a 300 ml negetive developing tank in which two rolls of film can be simultaneously developed. I shall like to know the maximum number of B/W films that can be developed with one batch of developer. I generally use Kodak D-76 developer at 1:1 dilution. You need at least 100ml of stock D-76 per 36 exposure/ 120 film. Since you are uprating the film (there is no such thing, BTW), you probably don't want to use the developer 1:1. William Robb Can I use that stock solution further for say another roll of 36 exposure film? From your reply, it seems that the answer is no. Sorry, I could not get the second sentence of your reply. Could you please explain a bit further, if it is not annoying? I shall like to know one more thing. Suppose I am using films without uprating and all the films are of identical speeds. Now there is a term called Batch Processing where more than one films are developed in one go. Now suppose that I have 4 rolls of films to be processed. Suppose I am using a negetive developing tank which can accept 2 rolls of film at once. In Batch Processing, am I supposed to change the developer solution with fresh solution after processing 2 rolls or shall I continue using the same developer solution? With kind regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)
Bill Robb wrote: [Everything I always wanted to know about APS processors, and more. Snipped] Hi Bill, Gee, I get the feeling that some of those APS customers really get in your shorts ;-) HAR!! Seriously, thanks very much for your detailed note. Kodak's decision (or whoever's, since APS format development was a joint industry venture, IIRC) to coat the light-sensitive layers and magnetic recording layers right on top of each other probably makes great sense from a manufacturability standpoint, but it sounds like a real nightmare from the point of view of the processing lab. Credit card readers in department stores get dirty just from the dirt and grease from people's wallets, hands, etc. I can't imagine smearing those magnetic read heads with used developer, bleach, fixer, etc., etc. Yuck!! You're right, of course, about the fact that it's really the responsibility of the customer to read the status indicator on the cartridge. I wasn't aware -- until list members pointed it out in their replies -- that these cartridges even had human-readable indicators. I agree that the customer really needs to take responsibility for identifying the status of his/her rolls. I'd guess that APS film is probably most likely to get dropped off at busy one-hour minilabs, and that even if the lab tech felt the need/desire to babysit the customer, the large volume of incoming and outgoing film at such a lab would increase the likelihood that an unexposed roll would be run through the machine, if the lab tech is the only one looking at this status indicator. Unfortunately, I suspect that there are a large number of APS users who aren't even aware that there's a status indicator on the cartridge. After all, what's the likelihood that any given PS user will ever bother to read the manual? (For that matter, how many times have we seen replies on this list advising a high-end Pentax SLR user to RTFM?) Your comments got me thinking about something that I believe product designers generally call human factors engineering. I remember a recent note to the list -- I think Bruce Dayton posted it -- regarding APS cameras and the demographic group to which they appeal. He stated that APS seems to be popular not with a young demographic (like you see in the Kodak commercials), but with a much older demographic. Perhaps older folks who don't have quite as much manual dexterity as they used to, or who don't have quite as sharp of eyesight for close-up, high-resolution inspection as they used to. Drop-in cartridge loading and automatic film threading would probably be regarded by someone in this demographic as a highly desirable feature. Allow me to play devil's advocate for a moment The question that comes to my mind, as a devil's advocate, is the following: Can we expect the average member of this demographic to have sufficiently good eyesight -- without putting on reading glasses or holding the roll close to a bright light source -- to distinguish the circle, half-circle, x-mark, or rectangle status indicator on the outside of the cartridge? OK, these aren't cryptic, but then they're not intuitive either. I'll freely admit that someone who shoots a couple rolls of APS film a month will probably be quite familiar with what they mean without the need to look at the written instructions, but what about the user who only goes to the mini-lab half a dozen times a year? If my assumptions about the demographics are correct (and maybe they're not), I'd guess that at least some of the typical APS users might have difficulty reading the printed instructions on the cartridge, and I wonder if they might even have difficulty recognizing -- without close inspection -- that there are even printed instructions there in the first place. How about print contrast? Kodak's black on yellow is probably quite readable, but what about Fuji's color scheme? Black on green, right?? Probably not quite as readable, I'd guess. Don't get me wrong -- I think Kodak/Fuji/et al. probably did a good job designing this status indicator and the printed instructions, given the size limitations of the cartridge. I just wonder if there's an opportunity here to improve the status indicator to make it more readable for older, weaker eyes? Also, is there a product advertising opportunity here to maybe better educate the customer on the special features engineered into the product? Well, enough rambling. Must dig out my Kodak photoguide and review the information on shooting fireworks and cityscapes at night. Cheers, Bill Peifer Rochester, NY - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: LX Unsharpness (2)
Yes. At 01:30 PM 7/3/2002 +0200, you wrote: Hi guys, thanks for all the clever and helfull advice. Just one more clue for those who are still interested: The unsharpness increases uppwards in the viewfinder, i.e. while the image is sharp in the lower part it is unsharp in the upp half. Does that indicate problem with mirror alignment? Thanks Peter Peter Smekal Uppsala, Sweden [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)
- Original Message - From: William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, July 02, 2002 6:21 PM Subject: Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident) . However, your assumption about the consumer not being able to tell the difference seems correct. This is because people are basically really stupid, and not because of any inscrutable film cartridge secrets. AMEN snip... The customer has the option of looking at the cassette before coming to the lab, though. Generally, if you want me to process it, I am going to process it. It is the consumer's responsibility to use the stuff correctly. My responsibility is to have my machines in good shape to do the job, not to baby-sit morons. Agreed!! Bill KG4LOV [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
I shall like to know one more thing. Suppose I am using films without uprating and all the films are of identical speeds. Now there is a term called Batch Processing where more than one films are developed in one go. Now suppose that I have 4 rolls of films to be processed. Suppose I am using a negetive developing tank which can accept 2 rolls of film at once. In Batch Processing, am I supposed to change the developer solution with fresh solution after processing 2 rolls or shall I continue using the same developer solution? You might try looking up the info for the film/developer combination you're using on the manufacturer's web site. At my age, considering the frequency of senior moments, I usually check the Kodak or Ilford website before processing to make sure I'm doing things right. :-) Bill KG4LOV [EMAIL PROTECTED] - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Newbie flash question...please help
RE: Newbie flash question...please helpThanks a lot, I looked the model you mentioned and it seems to be the same as 440AF... - Original Message - From: Peifer, William [OCDUS] ...In your case, you'll need the 444D (about US $100 new from places in New York City like BH or Adorama), and a Sunpak PT-2D dedicated module (about US $33 new from the same places). I don't know about the Sunpak 444AFP -- never heard of it. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Newbie flash question...please help
-Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Peifer, William I'd personally stay away from any flash with a motorized zoom head. These eat up batteries pretty quickly. I think the amount of juice eaten up by zooming isn't very significant compared to how much is used when actually discharging the flash. It'll also save your butt if you forget to readjust the manual zoom when going from a tele to a wide lens. Of course, it *is* another doo-hicky that can break. tv - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Insurance for lenses broken in shipping
So I was in a post office branch the other day, mailing a lens, when the clerk told me that the insurance I was paying for didn't cover damage to glass items like the lens. I'm going to check with the main post office here, since I've never heard that before, but has anyone ever had problems with Canada Post not paying out for glass that was damaged in shipping? I pack my stuff so well that you could probably throw it off a building without harming it, but if Customs ever decides to open it then anything could happen. What's the deal? chris - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: shooting fireworks
Thanks for everyone's advice on this topic! I'm off to the Island. Hoping to come back with something PUG-worthy. ;) --Amita - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
FS: H3V
Hey gang, Cleaning out my room, I found my H3V. This is one that I purchased off of ebay a few years back to get a pair of screwmount lenses that came with it. I've never put film through the camera, but the shutter operates and seems to slow down as the dial is dialed down. Shutter speeds SOUND right to me. If you're intersted, drop me a line. I'm selling because I now only have k-mount lenses, so having a screw camera is kind of screwy. I prefer to ship USPS. (shipping fees are actual) . . . I'm looking for about $45 US obo. Paypal, checks, etc. Illinois Bill - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Ilford's SFX look of.
Hi, is this film really worth it for pseudo-IR or IR-like effects? With a #25 filter? Please, if anybody has some pictures with this film showing foliage effects, would you send me a link? I really can't afford true HIR now, as well as I dislike the no-halation halos. Unfortunately, both cheaper and better Konica or Maco are not available here :( Thanks! Good light, Frantisek Vlcek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: FS: H3V
William Kane wrote: I've never put film through the camera, but the shutter operates and seems to slow down as the dial is dialed down. Shutter speeds SOUND right to me. as an addendum, and in case someone decides to go screwy, I have a few excess SMCTaks SuperTaks other screwstuff that might be of interest. If you're intersted, drop me a line. ... me too:^) Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Ilford's SFX look of.
I don't have any of my own, but here's a website that offers what you're looking for: http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/infrared/comparison_of_films/comparison_of_ films.html This person created a matrix of films and filters to show their differences. t On 7/3/02 1:47 PM, Frantisek Vlcek wrote: Hi, is this film really worth it for pseudo-IR or IR-like effects? With a #25 filter? Please, if anybody has some pictures with this film showing foliage effects, would you send me a link? I really can't afford true HIR now, as well as I dislike the no-halation halos. Unfortunately, both cheaper and better Konica or Maco are not available here :( Thanks! Good light, Frantisek Vlcek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Ilford's SFX look of.
Frantisek wrote: is this film really worth it for pseudo-IR or IR-like effects? With a #25 filter? I never felt the urge to try it (having started w/ HIE ;^) but from all I have gathered it is just an extended red sensitive film - minimal extension up into the nearest IR. So this is a minute amount of its spectrum. One roll might be worth a test. At least it should do the normal bw/#25 darkened skies/puffy clouds part fairly well? Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Customer Responsibility
In a message dated 7/3/2002 2:57:21 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: You're right, of course, about the fact that it's really the responsibility of the customer to read the status indicator on the cartridge. I wasn't aware -- until list members pointed it out in their replies -- that these cartridges even had human-readable indicators. I agree that the customer really needs to take responsibility for identifying the status of his/her rolls. This is exactly right and it hits particularly close to home. Over the weekend I picked up a couple of rolls of (I thought) normal color prints from the Walgreens drugstore close to home and who usually do an acceptable job. When I got home I was appalled that one of the rolls had a heavy blue/green tint on it. I took it back the next day for them to reprint and color correct. I was polite, but then shocked when the clerk pointed out that it was slide film (Sensia II) that had been misprocessed. At first I was upset, but then I realized it was ultimately my responsibility for submitting the wrong film. It would have been helpful if the clerk had noticed, but it was still my responsibility. I will be more careful in the future. Luckily I was able to scan the prints, adjust the tint, and make kinda acceptable prints from the misprocessed film. Jerry in Houston - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)
OTOH, some of the attitudes expressed toward film customers can only accelerate the adoption of digital. Geoff 8:^) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Ilford's SFX look of.
TS I don't have any of my own, but here's a website that offers what you're TS looking for: TS http://www.pauck.de/marco/photo/infrared/comparison_of_films/comparison_of_films.html Tim, thanks! That's exactly what I have been looking for. Now, anybody would know the spectral transmission of my IR filter ;-) ? It's the East Germany's Panchromar brand (btw quite good with regards to glass quality and grinding q.), labelled IR ROT, FILTER B. I can see tru it, but only very very faintly and only the bright light sources like bulb, white clouds, etc. The brochure that came with it is generic and not much help :( IT lists two IR filters (one durchlssig, rotdunkel, dmpft Violett und Blau bis zur vollstandigen Schwarzung, the other infraschwarz, schwarz, ins extrem gesteigerte wirkung gegenber dem infrarotfilter). From my remembering of Deutsch, I would have the first one, possibly. but what the cutoff is, I dunno. I wanted to use it with the SFX film. Good light, Frantisek Vlcek - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
- Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee Hallo Bob! From your reply it seems to me that there is no limit to the number of films for batch processing. Do you mean that I can develop as many number of films as I wish provided that the two films in my developing tank is totally covered by the developer? Well, as far as I think, the developer will get used up more and more as I go on using the same solution so a time will come when the strength of the developer will not be enough to carry on the chemical action. Or it may happen like this. I have to allow longer time for developement if I am using the same solution for more than four rolls. Please correct me, if I am incorrect? Let me frame the question in a more precise manner. Can I use the same devoloper at 1:1 dilution for developing four rolls of black and white film in a developing tank which accepts only two rolls at a time? Do you suggest some other dilution or no dilution? Thanks for your comments. With kind regards, Ayash. D76 1:1 works very wellbut one shot only. Do not reuse and do not use in rotary equipment that specify less solution that would be required to completely cover the film when the tank is upright. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
AF280T Manual
Hi, Some was hosting a copy of the manual for the AF280T. Does any one know the link to it? Or have a copy they could email to me? If you want to email it then could you send it to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Paul Jones - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: AF280T Manual
http://www.postkoets.btinternet.co.uk/AF280T.pdf On Thursday 04 July 2002 16:14, Paul Jones wrote: Hi, Some was hosting a copy of the manual for the AF280T. Does any one know the link to it? Or have a copy they could email to me? If you want to email it then could you send it to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Paul Jones - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . -- Frits J. Wüthrich (Sent with Kmail) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)
- Original Message - From: Geoffgo Subject: Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident) OTOH, some of the attitudes expressed toward film customers can only accelerate the adoption of digital. Sure, and these same morons will then be asking me to make 4R prints from 29kb jpg files. You mistake the expression of fact for attitude. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Insurance for lenses broken in shipping
- Original Message - From: Chris Brogden Subject: Insurance for lenses broken in shipping So I was in a post office branch the other day, mailing a lens, when the clerk told me that the insurance I was paying for didn't cover damage to glass items like the lens. I'm going to check with the main post office here, since I've never heard that before, but has anyone ever had problems with Canada Post not paying out for glass that was damaged in shipping? I pack my stuff so well that you could probably throw it off a building without harming it, but if Customs ever decides to open it then anything could happen. What's the deal? Welcome to the Byzantine nightmare that is Canada Post. You might want to check the rules, the clerk may be full of horse byproducts. I am not sure if a lens qualifies as glass in the traditional meaning of the word. This is funny, since I discovered the joyful way to financial ruin that is eBay, i have purchased perhaps 2 dozen items, mostly from USA and UK sources. Of these items, I think only 4 or 5 have not been opened by customs. As an aside, (ATTENTION Frank!!!), I have to wonder if customs and excise opening parcels is a Charter of Rights violation. It seems to me that what they are doing is accusing me, as an importer, of attempting to either smuggle illegal goods, or avoid taxation, and making me prove my innocence. This would be a violation of section 11.C of the Canadian Charter of Rights. But I digress. My latest aquisition was an X-Rite model 810 densitometer (a must have item for the anal Zone System photographer), which is actually something I have wanted in my darkroom for quite some time. Anyway, when I went to the posrt office to collect my box, I was quite surprised to find that it did not have customs tape on it. However, the box did look like a goat had tried to chew it open. I have to wonder if there is a correlation here. IE: customs does not want to open a box that may contain damaged goods, for fear of being accused of causing said damage. Not that it would matter, as there is no accountability in the government anyway. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Newbie flash question...please help
Alvaro Elgueta Z. wrote: So the question is: which 3rd party flash unit are compatible with the MZ-50? (I mean working in accordance to the camera`s programs) I saw Sunpak 444AFP, Vivitar S1 850 and Sigma EF500ST in Adorama, all these claim to be Like everybody else, I've never heard of the 444AFP (sounds like a dedicated AF-Pentax flash, right?). I too have the 444D with PT-2D module that I use primarily with my PZ-1p. It supports viewfinder flash-ready indication that works even on my Sears KS-2 (a Ricoh something-or-other). I've even used that module successfully on my K-1000, so it seems that it will probably work with any Pentax body that supports analog flashes. I have found that it does not support the flash-OK indication through the viewfinder. There is a light on the back of the flash to indicate OK, but you have to look take your eye away from the viewfinder to look at it, and sometimes (when you used only a small fraciton of the available power) it only lights briefly. The PT-2D module sports a light sensor itself, so I can get autoflash on bodies that don't have a flash light sensor themselves. The only ptoblem I've head with the flash has been that it occasionally mildly confuses the circuitry in my PZ-1p (it gets confused about when to drop the mirror and wind the film on) if I don't let it recharge long enough between pictures. hope that helps, patbob ([EMAIL PROTECTED]) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident)
- Original Message - From: Peifer, William Subject: RE: APS film -- exposed or not? (was RE: Carry-on inspection of film -- and an unfortunate incident) Bill Robb wrote: [Everything I always wanted to know about APS processors, and more. Snipped] Hi Bill, Gee, I get the feeling that some of those APS customers really get in your shorts ;-) HAR!! Must be shortly after our Fireworks Day... Regarding the APS system design, to me it shows all the manifestations of being designed by a commitee with a bad mandate. The status indicator is fairly easy to see, being a white indicator inside a black window. Here is a drawing of an APS cartridge, with some expanatory stuff: http://www.austral.addr.com/photo-APS/ To me, I really don't think it is so much poor eyesight, as just simple carelessness on the part of the consumer, or over harriedness on the part of the lab. The Fuji cartridges have a white stripe with the instructions printed in black, but the instructions really are very small. My mid 40's eyes have some problems with making them readable. OTOH, every camera comes with an owners manual. I think they would have been better to make a 110/126 style film cartridge, rather than what they came up with, though this would have obviated the possibility of mid roll film changes. With the lack of choices in APS (there really is only 4 different films from Kodak, and Agfa, and 3 from Konica, Fuji and Imation), I don't think this would have been such a loss. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: AF280T Manual
Thanks Frits - Original Message - From: Frits J. Wüthrich [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Thursday, July 04, 2002 8:58 AM Subject: Re: AF280T Manual http://www.postkoets.btinternet.co.uk/AF280T.pdf On Thursday 04 July 2002 16:14, Paul Jones wrote: Hi, Some was hosting a copy of the manual for the AF280T. Does any one know the link to it? Or have a copy they could email to me? If you want to email it then could you send it to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Thanks, Paul Jones - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . -- Frits J. Wüthrich (Sent with Kmail) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Customer Responsibility
- Original Message - From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Customer Responsibility This is exactly right and it hits particularly close to home. Over the weekend I picked up a couple of rolls of (I thought) normal color prints from the Walgreens drugstore close to home and who usually do an acceptable job. When I got home I was appalled that one of the rolls had a heavy blue/green tint on it. I took it back the next day for them to reprint and color correct. I was polite, but then shocked when the clerk pointed out that it was slide film (Sensia II) that had been misprocessed. At first I was upset, but then I realized it was ultimately my responsibility for submitting the wrong film. It would have been helpful if the clerk had noticed, but it was still my responsibility. I will be more careful in the future. Luckily I was able to scan the prints, adjust the tint, and make kinda acceptable prints from the misprocessed film. I don't agree. It is the labs responsibility to ensure that they are not damaging the customers film by incorrect processing. Processing a blank C-41 process film in C-41 chemistry may seem like wrecking the film, but really it isn't. Ultimately, the lab has no way to give 100% assurance that a film submitted for processing has been used or not without processing it. We can make an educated guess, but nothing more. OTOH, putting an E-6 film through a C-41 process is a huge lab error, as it renders the images unusable. This is the sort of thing that the lab should catch before the film hits the processor. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: film ruined in hot car?
- Original Message - From: dglenn Subject: Re: film ruined in hot car? Indeed, that's exactly what I did to _intentionally_ fry a roll a few years ago because I wanted to find out what would happen. I put an exposed roll of SFW film on the dashboard of a car left parked in the sun for about a week straight, IIRC. The pictures came out with a blue cast. That wasn't heat damage. SFW film is just like that William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
- Original Message - From: Ayash Kanto Mukherjee Subject: Re: Max. # of B/W film. Can I use that stock solution further for say another roll of 36 exposure film? From your reply, it seems that the answer is no. Correct. The developer would be exhausted after processing. Sorry, I could not get the second sentence of your reply. Could you please explain a bit further, if it is not annoying? What you called uprating is one of my pet peeves. The generic term is actually pushing the film, and it causes a loss of shadow detail and an increase in contrast. If you are shooting in very flat light, it is not so bad, but often, the environment that pushed film finds itself being used in is high contrast stuff, such as night street photography. I shall like to know one more thing. Suppose I am using films without uprating and all the films are of identical speeds. Now there is a term called Batch Processing where more than one films are developed in one go. Now suppose that I have 4 rolls of films to be processed. Suppose I am using a negetive developing tank which can accept 2 rolls of film at once. In Batch Processing, am I supposed to change the developer solution with fresh solution after processing 2 rolls or shall I continue using the same developer solution? I would use the developer once and discard it, on general principles. Stay with the rule of thumb (for D-76, anyway) which is minimum 100ml of stock solution per roll of film, and discard after use. William Robb - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Re[2]: C41color film developing, how hard is it ?
Hi Jan, this arrived in my mail box, it might be of interest: Also, I don't know of any kits that come in so small a volume as to allow only one or two rolls of chemistry to be mixed. However, the developer is stable enough to last several weeks in dark oxygen restricted storage, and much longer if kept cold. A friend of mine used to keep EP-2 developer in the deep freeze until he was ready to use it, with no ill effects. Anyway, this is what I recieved from a happy Tetenal user: Bill - I have been using Tetanal and Beseler kits lately. They are very easy to use and yield about 12 to 16 rolls of 35mm, 36 exposure per liter of mix. I use the small stainless steel tanks, either one reel or two reel types and make up a water bath at 100 degrees F(+ or - 1 degree. although this isn't as critical as the manufacturers normally specify). My mix lasts up to 6 or 8 weeks stored in plastic bottles at room temperature. My water bath is in a large foam bucket in a sink and is easy to control. I would say the C41 kits are almost as easy to do as BW except for the water bath at 100 degrees F. I haven't had a bad roll for a long time. I normally hang my film in a shower after developing to dry and then cut and sleeve it before scanning it into my computer. In the computer I edit the pictures for printing or select a negative that is very good to print in the dark room. I also use Kodak and Tetenal RA-4 chemistry (in 1 liter batches) for the printing process. This process is basically like doing BW printing except for getting the original color correction. It takes a few tries to get the filter pack that yields the best prints. Good luck, it is a very satisfying process. Richard Ullakko Sammamish, WA. [EMAIL PROTECTED] - Original Message - From: Jan van Wijk [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Wednesday, July 03, 2002 8:22 AM Subject: Re: Re[2]: C41color film developing, how hard is it ? Hi Bill, On Wed, 3 Jul 2002 06:23:34 -0600, William Robb wrote: The most important question is, are there chemicals that can be mixed in quantities for a single (or at most 2) films ? I think the kits that I have seen that are sourced from Europe (Agfa and Tetenal) mix to 1 liter of chemistry. I suspect that will do 6 or 8 rolls of film. I wouldn't try to split the concentrates, but you can store the mixed developer in glass in the fridge to keep it fresh. OK, you mean that whole liter, or possibly split into the required amount for the JOBO tank (hopefully less than a liter :-) The developer is quite stable, and the bleach/fix will last pretty much forever in storage. C-41 is incredibly easy in the Jobo. OK, I will see if I can get some info from Tetenal/Agfa on that ... Thanks for the info, JvW - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: FS: H3V
Hello, Bill. What excess SMC Takumars do you have? Plus the other screwstuff? Happy Independence Day. Jim A. in Portland From: Bill D. Casselberry [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Wed, 03 Jul 2002 14:00:18 -0700 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: FS: H3V William Kane wrote: I've never put film through the camera, but the shutter operates and seems to slow down as the dial is dialed down. Shutter speeds SOUND right to me. as an addendum, and in case someone decides to go screwy, I have a few excess SMCTaks SuperTaks other screwstuff that might be of interest. If you're intersted, drop me a line. ... me too:^) Bill - Bill D. Casselberry ; Photography on the Oregon Coast http://www.orednet.org/~bcasselb [EMAIL PROTECTED] - - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Customer Responsibility
The lab should have recognized the E-6 film. You just dropped it off for processing. They should know how to process it. On the other hand, E-6 film is sometimes cross processed in C-41 chemistry for effect. I've done it once or twice and have been pleased with the results -- for what they were. Of course you wouldn't want to do it with skin tones or anything else that demands accurate color. But it can be fun. Here's a cross-processed Velvia shot that I posted to the PUG a while back: http://pug.komkon.org/01oct/helleng.html [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: In a message dated 7/3/2002 2:57:21 PM Central Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: You're right, of course, about the fact that it's really the responsibility of the customer to read the status indicator on the cartridge. I wasn't aware -- until list members pointed it out in their replies -- that these cartridges even had human-readable indicators. I agree that the customer really needs to take responsibility for identifying the status of his/her rolls. This is exactly right and it hits particularly close to home. Over the weekend I picked up a couple of rolls of (I thought) normal color prints from the Walgreens drugstore close to home and who usually do an acceptable job. When I got home I was appalled that one of the rolls had a heavy blue/green tint on it. I took it back the next day for them to reprint and color correct. I was polite, but then shocked when the clerk pointed out that it was slide film (Sensia II) that had been misprocessed. At first I was upset, but then I realized it was ultimately my responsibility for submitting the wrong film. It would have been helpful if the clerk had noticed, but it was still my responsibility. I will be more careful in the future. Luckily I was able to scan the prints, adjust the tint, and make kinda acceptable prints from the misprocessed film. Jerry in Houston - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
Hi Bob! After reading the comments/advice of you and many other PDMLers I have decided not to reuse 1:1 D76 for processing more number of films than indicated. Thanks for your advice. With kind regards, Ayash. On Thu, 4 Jul 2002, Bob Rapp wrote: D76 1:1 works very wellbut one shot only. Do not reuse and do not use in rotary equipment that specify less solution that would be required to completely cover the film when the tank is upright. Bob - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org . - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Max. # of B/W film.
On Wed, 3 Jul 2002, William Robb wrote: What you called uprating is one of my pet peeves. The generic term is actually pushing the film, and it causes a loss of shadow detail and an increase in contrast. If you are shooting in very flat light, it is not so bad, but often, the environment that pushed film finds itself being used in is high contrast stuff, such as night street photography. aah! Now I can see. If I uprate/push a 400 ASA B/W film to 1600 ASA, shall I be able to see grains appearing in the negetive/4 inch by 6 inch sized prints? I have never tried it, so I don't know. I would use the developer once and discard it, on general principles. Stay with the rule of thumb (for D-76, anyway) which is minimum 100ml of stock solution per roll of film, and discard after use. William Robb Yep! I won't do any kind of jugglery this time which may end to ruined negetives. Thanks for your advice. With kind regards, Ayash. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Insurance for lenses broken in shipping
It's not just Canada Post. I had two studio flashes shipped by UPS and one arrived damaged. When I called, they told me that their insurance doesn't cover glass. The flashtube ($225Cdn) was made of glass, but was inoperative, not broken, so they eventually paid, after much discussion and stalling. As for lenses, they're much sturdier than glassware or framed pictures, which is probably what the clerk was thinking of. Pat White - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Re: Hi,pentax-discuss,so cool a flash,enjoy it
Was that meant to be a virus? - Dave http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
RE: Newbie flash question...please help
Peifer, William [OCDUS] wrote: I have a Sunpak 444D which I picked up used, but you can still purchase these new from your favorite retailer. I also have a 444D. Picked it up secondhand for ~US$100 including off- camera sync cord, manual-zoom head and the AC adaptor. Its a really good flash and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it to anyone. Mine came with an Olympus shoe but it still worked OK on the K2. I bought the PT-2D shoe when I got a Z-1p. I'm still wondering if I really should have bought that 500FTZ... Cheers, - Dave http://www.digistar.com/~dmann/ (out of date) - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
Newbie
Hi All, I am a newbie to the list...so I hope this doesn't break protocol or anything. I am desperately seeking a Charge Pack M for an LX ni-cd battery pack. I have somehow managed to kill mine, and my LX Motor Drive is pretty useless without it. Any other people who have had similar experiences out there? What did you do? Cheers Shaun. - This message is from the Pentax-Discuss Mail List. To unsubscribe, go to http://www.pdml.net and follow the directions. Don't forget to visit the Pentax Users' Gallery at http://pug.komkon.org .
