sticky mirror... MX ?

2006-02-11 Thread Francis Tang
Hi All,

It's been a long time since I've posted here... it's hard to keep up with
all the email traffic!

It's been a while since I've used my MX and today it's exhibiting a sticky
mirror problem.  I've read a lot about sticky mirrors on the LX, but has
anyone heard of it on an MX before?

I had the MX serviced three years ago by Pentax Service here in the UK.
Admittedly, since then I've hardly used the camera and it did spend most of
those three years in hot and humid conditions in the Far East.

Any recommendations on what I could do next?  Get it repaired+serviced?  Bu=
y
another used MX?  Buy a used MZ-S?  Buy a new FM3A [joke - don't flame me!]=
?

I really want to stay with Pentax because I have some lenses that I'm quite
reluctant to let go of: A24/2.8, M35/2, A50/1.4 and M85/2 [some people say
it's a dog, but I still love it - ok?].  I'm getting really desperate now
because this MX is my last Pentax - I've had two ME Supers pop their cogs
within the same three years!

Thanks in advance.

Francis Tang.



OT: Picasa 2 migration

2005-05-24 Thread Francis Tang
Hi

Does anyone on this mailing list use Picasa 2?  I've been playing
around with it a bit, and it seems to suit my needs fairly well. 
However, before investing more of my time labelling my pictures, I was
wondering if anyone has any experience of migrating Picasa installs
- e.g. moving to a new harddisk, or moving from one PC to another.

I know there'd be no problem with the images themselves (just find the
files on your hdd, and copy them) - my concern is the meta data,
i.e. the labels you've attached to the images.

Any experience here?

Thanks.

Francis.



Re: mx shutter behavior

2004-12-08 Thread Francis Tang
On Tue, 7 Dec 2004 16:40:49 -0800 (PST), Alan Chan [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You may visit Rob's site to see what it looks like. I
 don't have the MX anymore so I cannot how you.

Can someone remind us of the URL?  Thanks!



Re: *istDS Review on photo.shopping.com

2004-12-05 Thread Francis Tang
Mea Culpa.  I made that statement after talking with someone from the
Singapore Pentax distributors and poring over the *ist-DS spec sheet
with him.


On Sat, 4 Dec 2004 09:24:41 +1000, John Coyle [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Francis, why wouldn't you be able to use your M lenses on either the *istD
 or *istDS?  I have used mine many times on my *istD without any difficulty.
 If the reason is that you think the focal length shift is unacceptable, then
 save money by getting the lenses designed for the D series - you'd have to
 do so anyway if you change systems.
 
 John Coyle
 Brisbane, Australia
 
 
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Francis Tang [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 3:29 PM
 Subject: Re: *istDS Review on photo.shopping.com
 SNIP
 
  I'm always anticipating the release of the next Pentax dSLR,
  precisely because I have a collection of Pentax glass.
 
  However, judging by the *ist-D and *ist-DS, it looks like this is not
  a good reason anyway.  The only lenses I would be able to salvage
  frrom my collection are the A24/2.8 (which would no longer be a super
  wide), A50/1.4 (hardly standard anymore - perhaps a good portrait
  lens) and the A70-210/4 (but that's not my most used lens).  Sadly, I
  wouldn't be able to use the M35/2 (which I love on the MX, and would
  make a nice standard lens for the istD/S), nor my M85/2 (which
  despite being previously described as a dog on this list, I love
  anyway).  The other glass I wouldn't miss so much (a smattering of
  50s, plus a Vivitar 28/2.8 and a Ricoh 135/2.8).
 
 SNIP
 
 
 
  Francis Tang.
  PDML lurker, one-time hobby photographer.
 
 




Re: *istDS Review on photo.shopping.com

2004-12-02 Thread Francis Tang
On Thu, 02 Dec 2004 12:25:45 -0700, Tom C [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 3. With an investent in Pentax lenses, it doesn't really matter what a
 reviews says or how much a reviewer says one product is better than
 another... I'm don't have the money to dump my current system and start
 over, or invest in two systems.

I'm always anticipating the release of the next Pentax dSLR,
precisely because I have a collection of Pentax glass.

However, judging by the *ist-D and *ist-DS, it looks like this is not
a good reason anyway.  The only lenses I would be able to salvage
frrom my collection are the A24/2.8 (which would no longer be a super
wide), A50/1.4 (hardly standard anymore - perhaps a good portrait
lens) and the A70-210/4 (but that's not my most used lens).  Sadly, I
wouldn't be able to use the M35/2 (which I love on the MX, and would
make a nice standard lens for the istD/S), nor my M85/2 (which
despite being previously described as a dog on this list, I love
anyway).  The other glass I wouldn't miss so much (a smattering of
50s, plus a Vivitar 28/2.8 and a Ricoh 135/2.8).

So what?  Still holding out for the MR-52... (for those who remember
back far enough, the full-frame MZ-S-based dSLR).

Seriously, for me there's not much reason to stick to Pentax for a
non-fullframe dSLR that cannot use M-series lenses.  Even if Pentax do
eventually release a full-frame dSLR, it'd likely cost so much that
it's hardly worth keeping my old glass.  Right now, it looks as if I
might as well as go for an Olympus E-300 or Nikon D70 (no Canon bleuch
bleuch bleuch).  Or even a non-SLR, such as the Nikon 8400 (yum, super
wide lens).

For me, it's almost getting desperate.  My collection of Pentax bodies
has dwindled to just one working MX - over the years, three MESupers
have conked-out on me :( .  Fortunately (more like sadly) I'm not
taking many photos right now - still adjusting to post-student /
married life

Francis Tang.
PDML lurker, one-time hobby photographer.



Re: *istDS Review on photo.shopping.com

2004-12-02 Thread Francis Tang
*gasp*!

Could this be true?  Noone in Singapore can confirm whether M-series
lenses work okay with the *ist-DS (okay, I presume the DS is not so
different from the D wrt lens compatibility).  The brochure for the DS
only lists K-A and newer lenses as being compatible.

So, how well does it work opn the *ist-D?  Can anyone confirm whether
this is also the case for the DS?


On Thu, 2 Dec 2004 23:33:23 -0600, William Robb [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Francis Tang
 Subject: Re: *istDS Review on photo.shopping.com
 
  Seriously, for me there's not much reason to stick to Pentax for a
  non-fullframe dSLR that cannot use M-series lenses.
 
 My istD does just fine with M lenses.
 YMMV
 
 William Robb
 




OT: Interpolation (Was Re: The true cost of free digital?)

2001-11-22 Thread Francis Tang

On Wed, Nov 21, 2001 at 01:02:31PM -0500, Aaron Reynolds wrote:
 On Wednesday, November 21, 2001, at 09:43  AM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
  When I speak about medium format digital, I mean (or meant to say) film 
  to
  drum scanned medium format. I was astonished at the size of the files 
  when I
  had my 6x7 negs scanned the first time. They eat up ZIP 250 disks.
 
 Our little Polaroid SprintScan 120 (which was $4000 CDN) puts out files 
 in the neighborhood of 200 megs from 6x7.  I love it.  Set to 8000dpi 
 interpolated and 48 bit colour, the file size is up over a gig!  More 
 information than I can use with my printer, but that's a good thing.

Question unrelated to cost of digital: what's the purpose of
interpolation in the scanner, versus interpolating/resampling on the
computer?

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: developing tri-x in ilfosol-s

2001-11-22 Thread Francis Tang

Dear Geordie,

On Wed, Nov 21, 2001 at 02:36:29PM -0800, Geordie wrote:
 I was wondering if anyone could tell me a developing time for tri-x 400 film
 in Ilford Ilfosol-S developer?

I used to use Ilfosol S for my Ilford film, but I wasn't really
satisfied when using it with HP5.  I tried LC29 (maybe called HC-D in
the US) and have never looked back.  If you have the curiosity, maybe
you might want to try this developer too.  In use it's just like
Ilfosol S (except for dilutions and timings.)

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: Digital cameras are FREE

2001-11-20 Thread Francis Tang

On Tue, Nov 20, 2001 at 07:20:14PM +1100, Leon Altoff wrote:
 If my
 computer crashes I loose all of them, unless I back them up onto CD
 rom, which if it's scratched can cause a whole image to be corrupted
 whereas a scratch on a slide can be touched up.

But don't forget that you can make copies of your CDRs with no quality
loss.  (I try to scan my favourite photos and I usually burn them onto
CDR, twice - I then archive one and use the other.)

I love prints and slides but also think that digital images have their
advantages too.  In fact I find sharing digital images much easier
(pop it into an email, put it on a webpage).  I'm reluctant to show
people my slides (the average person cannot avoid putting thumb prints
on my slides) and projecting them is said to accelerate the fading
process.

There's space for both in my heart.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: Digital cameras are FREE

2001-11-20 Thread Francis Tang

On Tue, Nov 20, 2001 at 05:04:18AM -0500, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 In a message dated 11/20/01 2:18:25 AM Eastern Standard Time, 
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  Which means, in turn, that if you buy a $2,000 digital camera, a flash media
  card, a card reader, and a copy of Photoshop Elements, the camera will
  completely pay for itself in approximately two years. 

 Even if your figures are correct, does your analysis factor in the cost of 
 printer paper, ink cartridges, spoilage, spillage? 

But his figure per film is just for the processing.  If you want
prints from slides, you'd have to pay for those too.

 My Grands can blow through 
 a color ink cartridge in one afternoon's visit.

 but an ink cartridge is cheap compared to the priceless memories
of your grandkids having fun, right?  (I'm too young, but I hope one
day I'll be able to experience first-hand.)

 Doing (choice) negatives myself, I maybe use one or two sheets for testing 
 before printing the final, keeper image. I am reminded that ink, even that 
 cheap refill stuph at Walmart, is ~not~ cheap. 
 Then you have all those bad images you try to make right in the computer or 
 using with different printer settings but fail, the half dozen opened 
 packages of unsatisfactory inkjet paper, and free isn't really free.   

I find I go through a lot more paper in the darkroom.  Once I've done
all my test strips to work out printing contrast, printing density and
focussing, there's no point making just one print, so I make at least
two, just in case.  Then there's always wastage from trying to print a
negative that just won't give a good print (or getting a good print
requires too much effort.)  (Not to mention the occasional screw-up
such as when I forget to stop-down the lens.)

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: First 6-mp full-frame digital SLR is out

2001-11-16 Thread Francis Tang

On Fri, Nov 16, 2001 at 02:49:22PM +1300, David A. Mann wrote:
  Plus, unlike the Nikon/Canon behemoths they've actually made it look quite 
 compact.

Maybe the pictures just shows it with a very big lens

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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ME Super film transport (Was Re: ZENITAR-K 2.8/16 FISH-EYE LENS - Peleng 8/3.5?)

2001-11-14 Thread Francis Tang

On Tue, Nov 13, 2001 at 12:24:51PM -0700, aimcompute wrote:

 BTW,  my film transport just locked on my ME Super.  I thought the camera
 wasn't working at all.  So I managed in the dark to wind the film till it
 stripped off the sprockets.  Thought I had it all, but the film  had broken
 inside leaving about 5 frames around the take-up reel.
 
 Does anyone know why this happens?  Happened with an MX once as well.

I've got an ME Super with quirky transport.  One day (without film) I
could continually crank the wind lever, without tripping the shutter -
that was freaky.  Then I turned the mode dial and I couldn't reproduce
the fault again.

Another time, I took a photo and the mirror locked up.  (This is
DIFFERENT from when you trip the shutter in auto mode and it is too
dark.)  Turning the mode dial didn't have any effect.  I put lens cap
on and rewound the film.  And I did something else and the camera was
fine again.  Lucky too, since that was the day I left both my MX and
other ME Super at home.

As it turned out, the mirror was up but the shutter was closed, since
there was no fogging of the film when I developed it.

No idea why any of this happened.

Sincerely,

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Re: Pentax Digital NEWS - FULL STORY from AP 27th OCT.

2001-10-23 Thread Francis Tang

Dear Mike,

On Mon, Oct 22, 2001 at 02:37:11PM -0500, Mike Johnston wrote:
 P.S. I have to say that I'm totally NOT sold on the idea that a full-size
 sensor (meaning 35mm size, 24mm x 36mm) is a good idea. I'm really not sure
 it is. A smaller sensor size is really a great advantage: it means lenses
 can be significantly smaller and lighter and significantly faster, and depth
 of field can be greater for a given angle of view. All these are true
 advantages. I suspect that 24 x 36mm sensors will prove to be an
 evolutionary dead end in the long run. Right now we think we want this
 because it conforms to the old standards. But once digital shakes free of
 35mm conventions, the smaller CCD size will seem like just one more natural
 advantage of digital.

I am curious about your comment about increased DOF with a smaller
format.  I was always under the impression that we get more DOF with
35mm over MF because the typical print magnification is less.  Am I
missing something more subtle here?

Yours sincrely,

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Geek shopping in Munich.

2001-10-23 Thread Francis Tang

Fellow list members,

I'm in Muenchen for at least the next two months.  Any tips as to where to
shop for gear (just for my weekly drooling session) and more
realistically, where to buy E6 film and processing?  If I am right, I
should be able to get some pretty good deals on E6 (dias) with processing
vouchers for about 2,- DM (without frames.)

Yours faithfully,

Frank.

P.S. I don't like these German keyboards!  When I visited TU Darmstadt,
they gave us US keyboards.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student. LFCS, Edinburgh.
Visiting: TCS, Informatik, LMU-Muenchen, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 89 2178 2120  Fax: +49 89 2178 2238  Office: D.11
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Re: Got a Bargain, I think, an 85/1.8

2001-10-05 Thread Francis Tang

On Fri, Oct 05, 2001 at 03:50:20PM +1000, Paul Jones wrote:

 This completes what i was aiming for with my primes to carry around. 24/2,
 50/1.4 and now 85/1.8.
 
 Althought a 35/2 would fit in there nicely :)

I think a 35/2 would fit in nicely.  I now have A24/2.8, M35/2,
A50/1.4 and M85/2.  I usually travel light, so:

   one lens -35  or   50
   two lens -24 and 50
   three lens -  24, 35 and 85
   four lens -   bag overflow.  STOP.

And I find the more lenses I carry, the harder it is to have the
right lens on the camera.  I'm forcing myself to keep to one or two
lenses.

BTW, congratulations on a good buy.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Re: LX Frame Spacing (Was Re: MZ-S; Built to last)

2001-10-05 Thread Francis Tang

Is this the ultimate Pentax taboo?  Isn't there a trend regarding
Pentax film transport reliability?

I have owned three ME Supers and one MX.  All but one of the ME Supers
has demonstrated uneven frame spacing at some point.  Fortunately, in
my case, I mananged to get them all repaired under warranty (I bought
them all secondhand from a shop.)

I've also heard grumbles from MZ-5 users about transport problems.  So
is this the ultimate PDML/Pentax taboo?

Frank.

On Fri, Oct 05, 2001 at 02:43:58PM -0700, Shel Belinkoff wrote:
 Hi Bob ...
 
 The LX frame spacing problem has been discussed here in the past,
 although it hasn't come up for quite some time.  The first two that I
 had, which were older models, had irregular spacing to the point where
 some frames were so close together that there was no discernible space
 between them.  Some people complained of overlapping frames.  My
 earliest LX, which I still have, went back to Pentax twice for the
 problem, and the situation is much better.  However, the spacing
 between frames is still not as accurate as the frame spacing of the
 Leicas, and it's clear that there are some slight differences between
 frames.
 
 It's quite possible that many people don't notice this if they shoot
 slides which they then have mounted, or if a lab processes their film
 and makes prints.  As one who processes and prints my own film, I'm
 very much aware of any variations, however subtle.  I'd suggest every
 LX user, especially those with older cameras, take a careful look at
 the frame spacing, and if it's off by any degree, have it repaired
 while pentax still has parts available.
 
 
 Bob Walkden wrote:
 
  I'm surprised to hear this about your LX(es). 
  One of their bragging points is the accuracy 
  of the rewind/multiple exposure and therefore
  the frame-spacing. It suggests that yours 
  has/have a problem. Mine were all bang-on 
  (as is my M3).
 
 
 -- 
 Shel Belinkoff
 mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
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-- 
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LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Re: Manual back-up bodies

2001-09-07 Thread Francis Tang

Dear Artur,

On Mon, Sep 03, 2001 at 10:28:35PM +0200, Artur Ledóchowski wrote:
 Hi,
 I'm in desperate need for buying a second body. I have to do it within next
 twoo weeks, after which I'm going out for my vacation to Slovakia. Since I
 want to buy the MZ-S in the near future and I have the MZ-7, I'm heading for
 an older, manual body. I selected two: Super A/Super Program, and ME Super.
 Last Sunday I went to an used equipment market and saw both the Super
 Program and the ME Super - and both were unfortunately in poor condition.
 but the same day I saw some Ricoh and Chinon cameras. I had no experience
 with any of them, so I have a question: are there any Ricoh or Chinon bodies
 of the class similar to the ME Super or Super Program? Any of them worth
 buying? I'd like to have max shutter speed about 1/2000 and max sync speed
 no less than 1/100. Also DOF preview, exposure compensation and exposure
 lock wouldn't hurt either... And if the slowest shutter was more than 10
 sec, this would be great... Can I put my money in Ricoh/Chinon body or
 should I definitely look for Pentax?

When I read the title, I assumed you wanted a MANUAL camera, but I
guess you already know that the MESuper and SuperA don't aren't such.
The MES is better in that respect because without batteries you still
get 125X, bulb and the top shutter speed (so I've been told.)
However, given your requirements for max shutter speed, I guess the LX
is the only Pentax with good manual capability (but it fails on the
X-sync requirement.)  So it looks like you'd have to get a Nikon
FM2/3.

But if batteries aren't your concern, I can recommend the MESuper.  I
use two (and an MX) and I often pick the MES over the MX.  My only
gripe is that it's a tad fiddly to use in M when on a tripod.  The
SuperA with the LCD on top maybe better in this respect, but I haven't
used one before.  When using a tripod, my MX is preferred to an MES.

Another point in favour of the MES, is that I think it's underrated
(or perhaps the MX is overrated, nevermind the K1000.)  Not that I
think the MX isn't a good camera, (respectively the K1000), I'm just
not sure if it's that much better, as to command the extra money over
an MES.

On the subject of underrated cameras, I've heard that the ME is one
such.  I've yet to see one in the shops, and anyway, I'd have to ditch
one of my MESupers before I can justify it.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Re: Pentax Club?

2001-08-23 Thread Francis Tang

On Thu, Aug 23, 2001 at 03:39:25PM +0100, Rob Brigham wrote:
 Amateur Photographer says they are meeting in Andover at the Hawk
 conservancy on Sep 4, and having an MZ-5N masterclass some other time.
 Anyone know anything about this club, or a member?

I have a contact name Peter Cox.  This might be the same Pentax
Club.

I considered joining because they offer discounted camera servicing
through Pentax UK.  They also offer a quarterly publication, but why
would I need that when I have you guys? (and some gals.)

I should join if I want to get my MX fixed.  But the MX works except
for the X-sync and I hardly use flash!

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: Enabled

2001-08-17 Thread Francis Tang

David,

I've been toying with the idea of moving up the format ladder and/or
trying shift lenses.  Have you looked at the shifting MF cameras?
Cameras such as the Hasselblad 'Flex (or whatever) and the Silvestri
cameras?  There are others but I can't seem to be able to find out
much about them.

Frank.

On Mon, Aug 13, 2001 at 06:51:40PM +1200, David A. Mann wrote:

  I'm still having trouble deciding between a 67II and a Mamiya RZ kit once I've 
 sold the RB.  Maybe I'll ditch 6x7 entirely and get a 4x5 system with a 6x9 
 back.  Then I get the option of a huge slide, as well as control over perspective 
 and focal planes.

-- 
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LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: 645 film flatness (WAS: Re: 6x7 or 645?)

2001-08-17 Thread Francis Tang

Thanks Anthony!

It all makes sense now.  A while back I read that to test alignment of
the focussing screen, you should use a wide angle lens.  I guess it
comes down to the same thing.

Frank.

On Mon, Aug 13, 2001 at 02:52:56PM +1000, Anthony Farr wrote:

 In answer I will quote myself from a previous unrelated thread.
 
 Wide lenses . have very short depth of focus, ie the tolerance for
 focussing error at the focal plane.  . the cone produced by the image
 forming light is very wide so that a very, very small change in lens
 extension will make the circle of confusion unacceptably large. OTOH a long
 lens has a narrow cone of image forming light, and will tolerate a quite
 large change in lens extension without exceeding the parameters of
 acceptable circles of confusion.
 
 This should clear up a very common misconception.
 
 Regards,
 Anthony Farr

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Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Re: The MZ-S; a batteryholic?

2001-08-10 Thread Francis Tang

My mum picked some cheap, Kirkland alkalines.  In the pack of 12, I
remember two were just dead.  The first two I picked out of the pack
included a dead battery - naturally the device (Walkman) didn't work.
Perhaps you were just very unlucky and picked three dead batteries in
your three attempts?

On Fri, Aug 10, 2001 at 09:22:06PM +1200, Max McRae wrote:
  Mark wrote:
 
  Was the battery type switch on the grip set for lithiums all along?
 
 Oh no, I made damn sure the L6 position was selected when using the 
 alkalines. I read and reread the manual to see if I was doing something
 wrong, and it was only as a last resort I tried the lithiums.
 
 So all I can conclude from this,is that certain types of alkalines may
 not work very well, or even at all, with this grip.
 Or maybe the voltage has to be a minimum strength to kick the thing
 into life.
 I don't really know, I'm no expert in this field.
 
 Max
 
 
 
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Re: The MZ-S; a batteryholic?

2001-08-09 Thread Francis Tang

On Thu, Aug 09, 2001 at 08:42:00AM -0400, Mark D. wrote:

[snip]

 Pentax has been a little inconsistent in other areas too. For example
 
 -- The introduction of the MZ-S.
[snip]
 Also, it's the first time an MZ body isn't called ZX in the
 US. Why didn't they call it the ZX-S?

I noticed this too.  Nikon released the F100 as the F100 in the US,
instead of the usual N100/whatever.

I guess Nikon have a valid reason - it's trying to market the F100
using the image of the other F's (F, F2, F3, F4, F5).

-- 
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LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Re: OT: Which Camera Bag

2001-07-15 Thread Francis Tang

On Sun, Jul 15, 2001 at 07:15:11PM +1200, David A. Mann wrote:

  If you're happy with LowePro gear you could take a look at their AW series.  I 
 have a Compact AW which is one of the lesser-astronomically-priced models 
 and it suits me pretty well (it's a great medium format bag).  I also have a Nova 
 3 which I grew out of (it still makes a good travelling light bag).
 
  My requirements were a little different from yours however; I wanted a bag 
 where I could access anything without having to screw around with multiple 
 layers of equipment.  I was getting very frustrated with my Nova 3 today 
 because of all the gear I'd tried to cram into it :)

Nova 3 when travelling light?  I almost always travel with a Nova 1.
I was recently on holiday with A24/2.8, M35/2, M85/2 plus ME Super
with MEII winder without layers of equipment.  I can also carry a
Cokin P holder with 49 and 52 rings and an orange and a linear
polariser.  (Plus the obligatory spare set of batteries, an incident
meter and a hotshoe spirit level.)  It gets a bit fiddly when you try
to use the filters, but aren't they always?

I suppose it's because I usually go without flash.  As soon as I try
to fit in the Vivitar 283 as well, it's a whole different story.

-- 
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LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
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Re: Naive question, viewfinder magnification

2001-06-26 Thread Francis Tang

On Tue, Jun 26, 2001 at 12:31:50AM -0700, Alan Chan wrote:
 I've heard people complain that they can't see all of the viewfinder in the 
 MX, and I know I have to press the camera hard into my face so that I can 
 see all of it.  But why can't Pentax keep the same viewfinder magnification 
 on the MX and just make the rear window bigger?  Am I just being too naive 
 here?
 
 I has been wondering the same too. Nikon made something called action finder 
 for their F bodies so my only conclusion is cost cutting.

H.  Action finder reminds me of that door you open on the top
cover of a Yashicamat to give you a direct viewfinder.  At least it's
distortion-free and, with relevance to this topic, has 1.0x
magnification.  Pity you get parallax error...

Incidentally, the Leica 0-Series has such a viewfinder too.

Frank.

-- 
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Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: S215/215
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Re: Overlapping frames on MZ-S

2001-06-25 Thread Francis Tang

On Tue, Jun 26, 2001 at 12:25:35AM +0300, Philippe Trottier wrote:

 If the camera breaks it need to be fixed, or the user need to be fixed for
 trying to
 stretch a film.. I always had the extra frame (I usually blank shoot it) and
 if there
 is tension in the middle of the frame. just press the rewind button  is
 it that
 hard ?

Surely on a camera like the MZ-S, you'd expect it to be able to automatically rewind 
the film when it reaches the end, right?  If you're expected to prod the rewind button 
when you reach the end, then doesn't that defeat the purpose of the auto-rewind 
feature?

-- 
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Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: S215/215
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: screw mount adaptor

2001-06-22 Thread Francis Tang

On Fri, Jun 22, 2001 at 08:47:26AM -0700, B. K. Lane Sr. wrote:
 Hi,
 
 I have a quick question. I have been looking around to find
 a adaptor for this new screw mount camera I have so that 
 I can use the bayonet type lens that I have with it. 
 
 My question is.. is there such a thing? and if so .. what
 is it called? I can not seem to come up with anything 
 other then the use your old screw mount lens on your new
 bayonet mount camera. And I need it for the other way 
 around.

Dear Rebecca,

Assuming you are talking about an m42 screwmount body, there seems to be no ideal 
solution for what you're looking for.  You can buy an adapter with optical elements 
that allow you to use K-mount lenses on a screw mount body, but the extra optics 
degrade image quality and I've heard they behave a bit like a tele adapter.  The other 
option is to go for something without optics but then you lose infinity focus, which 
might be alright if you only want to do macro work.

The problem is a physical one: the m42 mount is narrower than the K-mount yet they 
have the same registration distance.  But if the screw mount has a shorter 
registration distance, e.g. a leica screw mount body, then it should be possible - 
though I'm not sure if they exist.

Not sure where to buy the adapters if you are happy with optical degredation or loss 
of infinity focus.  I think I've seen them before, probably in BH.

Yours sincerely,

Frank.

-- 
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Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: S215/215
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Voigtlaender vs Pentax

2001-06-21 Thread Francis Tang

Dear Arnold, and the other PDMLers,

On Thu, Jun 21, 2001 at 05:56:39AM +0200, Arnold Stark wrote:

[ Useful advice about where to buy cameras in Germany snipped. ]

  Sorry if I've offended the Pentax users here, but my lust for wider lenses has 
driven me to the option of range-finder-style cameras.  But fear not, I do own two ME 
Supers, one MX, winders for all three, plus eight SMC Pentax lenses.
 
 New Voigtländer wide angles are not necessarily cheaper than used Pentax ones.

Well, in the UK, I can get Voigtlaender Bessa L (the one without rangefinder - 
actually the light-tight box with a shutter and a screw thread) plus the 15mm lens for 
450ukp.  I don't think at these focal lengths I'd really benefit from an SLR.  I 
mainly shoot from the hip with the SMC A 24/2.8 (actually, from the knees!) and I 
imagine it would be similar with a 15mm.  I can pop a level into the accessory shoe 
and keep the viewfinder in my pocket.

But I'm torn - I love my Pentax cameras dearly!

Yours sincerely,

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student, LFCS, Edinburgh.
Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: S215/215
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: Traveling in Deutschland

2001-06-20 Thread Francis Tang

Dear German PDMLers,

Sorry to hi-jack this thread, but I have a few questions that are bothering me.

I've been visiting Darmstadt for the past month or so and before I came, I got all 
excited about the supposedly cheap camera gear here.  I guess I must have been unlucky 
because Darmstadt doesn't seem to have many good camera stores.  (Noone here's heard 
of the Voigtlaender!)

So my question is, where do German PDMLers shop for their camera gear?  I've found 
technikdirekt.de but since it only costs a tiny bit more to ship to the UK, it kinda 
defeats the purpose of me picking up some cheap gear whilst I'm here.

Also - heresy alert - would I be correct to assume that the Voigtlaender Bessa cameras 
and lenses are cheaper here than in the UK?  And if so, where would I find them?

Sorry if I've offended the Pentax users here, but my lust for wider lenses has driven 
me to the option of range-finder-style cameras.  But fear not, I do own two ME Supers, 
one MX, winders for all three, plus eight SMC Pentax lenses.

Yours,

Frank.

-- 
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Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: S215/215
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Re: MZ-S Report

2001-06-15 Thread Francis Tang

Hear hear!

Shooting with Pentax is fun.  I don't take photographs for a living and so for me the 
enjoyment factor is important.

Despite my earlier email, I don't need IS.  I have the A70-210/4 but I hardly use it 
because I'm in a very wide-angle mood of late.

Frank.

On Thu, Jun 14, 2001 at 08:55:07PM -0500, John Mustarde wrote:

 But for me, I could never switch to Canon. That's
 because I could replace everything in my kit (currently
 a couple of dozen lenses which allow me to shoot from
 18mm to 2400mm) with four or five Canon lenses and a
 couple of TC's. And at least three of those Canon
 lenses would have Image Stabilization. 
 
 Let's see, Henry, I'll take a 20 or 24mm, a 28-135 IS,
 a 100 Macro, a 100-400 IS, a 600/4 IS, a bit of
 extension, and a couple of those nice AF
 teleconverters. No, no need for a 50mm - I have six of
 them in K-mount that I can always stick on an ME Super
 if I ever again shoot at 50mm.
 
 But without all my Pentax-fit lenses, what would I do?
 Half the fun is looking for bargain old or new lenses
 and fiddling around with all that gear, manual focus
 and autofocus and TC combinations and duplicate lenses
 in focal lengths I rarely use, etc, etc... always
 trying to find just the right combo to get the perfect
 fit for all my photo needs. 
 
 Oh, and I haven't yet delved into the mysteries of the
 Limited lenses (or old screw-mount ones), which I'm
 sure would be a cure-all for all those unused 50mm and
 100mm K-mount lenses I already have.
 
 Five lenses and one body instead of twenty-five lenses
 and five bodies? How boring. No Ebay bargains to
 peruse? Gads, an appalling concept. No search for the
 mythical inexpensive A* 135/1.8 to grace my unused lens
 shelf? Shudder and groan.
 
 I mean, did I make a mistake selling my K-series 50/1.2
 just because I also have an A-series 50/1.2? Should I
 have kept my A 35/2, even though I hadn't shot with it
 in two years? Is my old powerzoom 28-105 as good as
 Brand X? Will my 1978 model Tamron 70-250/3.8 Macro
 ever give me the photos I know it is capable of? How
 long should I keep the secret that my twenty-dollar CPC
 24/2.8 Macro shoots better than any 24mm I've ever seen
 from Pentax?
 
 Nope, no switch to Canon for me. Then I'd have to focus
 on just taking photos, and leave all this equipment
 discussion behind. That's really scary.
 -- 
 Happy Trails,
 Texdance
 http://members.fortunecity.com/texdance
 http://members1.clubphoto.com/john8202
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Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
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Re: SMC-A 50/1.7

2001-06-13 Thread Francis Tang

Hi Darryn,

My SMC A 50/1.7 also has a sticky aperture ring - not as sticky as yours sounds 
though.  In comparison, my (what looks like older) SMC M 50/1.7 has no such problem.  
I think it stems from the fact that the newer A series lenses have plasticky aperture 
rings.  Unfortunately, the A70-210/4 and the A50/1.4 have plasticky aperture rings 
too.  The A24/2.8 is pure magic - feels like a piece of real camera gear.

I was disappointed that the A50/1.4 had a plastic aperture ring.  I have fears that it 
might become sticky with time like the A50/1.7.  Maybe I'll have to get an A50/1.2 to 
have a real piece of camera gear and A series coatings at the same time.  

Is the A50/1.4 really optically that much better than the M50/1.4?  I'm not sure if 
I'd rather have a lens that feels better to use at the price of optical performance.

Yours sincerely,

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student, LFCS, Edinburgh.
Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: S215/215
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/

On Wed, Jun 13, 2001 at 01:05:47PM +0930, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 I've already asked this question on the Yahoo Pentax Users group, with no
 replies indicating a similar problem - apologies to those who may be on both
 lists.
 
 I have a querey reagrding my A50/1.7 lens. The apeture ring moves OK between in
 the 1.7 - 5.6 range, however once it gets to f8 it gets very sticky, and I have
 to push that little button designed to let the ring get to the A position, in
 order to keep it moving beyond f8. Even then I have to force it a little. Has
 anyone had similar problems?
 
 
 Darryn Richter
 Adelaide Australia
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Re: MZ-S gripes

2001-06-11 Thread Francis Tang

I think the issue is using it quickly, and under pressure.  I know for sure that the 
focussing direction of the Tamron SP90/2.5 really confused me when I tried to use it 
under pressure.  I knew full well I should focus it the other way round - but it just 
doesn't work like that when you need to work quickly.  I can see Paal's point.

On Mon, Jun 11, 2001 at 09:28:01AM -0500, Eric Lawton wrote:
 I can't see how anyone would have any problem with the MZ-s controls after a 
 few minutes of thought and use.  It's no different than using a shutter 
 speed dial on the ZX-5n, ZX-m, or any other camera with shutter speeds 
 selected by a dial.  Maybe it would be easier if you think of turning the 
 wheel clock-wise or counter-clock-wise (instead of left and right) and 
 associating those motions with over and under exposure.
 
 Eric
 
 From: Pål Jensen [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 But the MZ-S and the Z-1p is totally different ball game. The point with 
 the MZ-S interface is that you can instantly switch between auto exposure 
 an manual mode. Ie. manual mode can be just as fast in operation as auto 
 mode. For this you ned an intuitive relationship between interface and 
 readout. Can anyone tell me whats the intuitive way to turn a horizontal 
 dial in order to get a bar on a scale to move upwards?
 This isn't about over and under exposure but + and - which are the symbols 
 you see in the viewfinder. An up and down scale operated by a left/right 
 wheel has to be learned; a horizontal bar with an horizontal wheel don't; 
 its totally intuitive. Personally I'm unable to learn the direction on the 
 Z-1p because it isn't logical. Besides, I do believe all other cameras on 
 the planet have horizontal bars possibly for a good reason.
 I do believe that Pentax is aware of this problem. After all they have 
 implemented a custom function where you program which direction on the 
 wheel in order to give under or over exposure. This of course would have 
 been totally unecesary if the exposure bar was horisontal.
 
 Pål
 
 
 _
 Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com
 
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Re: Flash functionality on MZ-S

2001-06-10 Thread Francis Tang

Eh?  I got Patrick's post in plain text.  Do you get something different Doug?

Frank.

On Fri, Jun 08, 2001 at 05:33:47PM -0400, Doug Brewer wrote:
 Hi Patrick,
 
 First, welcome to the list. Please use plain text to communicate with the list.
  
 For your answers, see below:
 
 
 At 7:29 PM +02006/8/01, Patrick Genovese brandished a favorite crayon and scribbled:
 Hi,
 
 The spec sheet on the Pentax US Web site says the following:
 
 quote
 - High-speed flash synchronization up to 1/6000 sec. with built-in flash or 
with new AF360FGZ wireless TTL flash unit
 unquote
 
 Q) How does the sync up to 1/6000 work ? (multiple flash bursts ??)
 
 
 Yes, that's how it's been described to me.
 
 
 The spec sheet also says:
 
 quote
 -AF360FGZ wireless flash unit allows multiple flash units to be controlled 
without cords and with TTL flash exposure; contrast control flash settings give 
multiple contrast levels.
 unquote
 
 Q1) Do all the flash units in a multi flash arrangement have to be AF360GFZs ?
 
  
 Yes. Since the MZ-S is the first body to offer this, the flash introduced with the 
body will naturally be the first flash to take advantage of it.
 
 
 Q2) Is the remote flash controller some sort if IR / Radio transmitter ?
 
 
 Yes.
 
 
 Q3) If Q2 is yes, then is the transmitter built into the camera or the AF360FGZ ?
 
 
 The transmitter is built into the RTF on the camera.
 
 
 Q4) If the MZ-S has no on board transmitter then what about a separate pair of 
gadgets (possibly third part) that fit onto the camera hotshoe  flash. This would 
allow users with an existing investment in flashes like AF500FTZ, METZ  many others 
to acheive the same functionality. (Pentax r u reading this ?)
 
 
 There are third-party transmitters of all kinds, but I don't think any of them offer 
TTL capabilities.
 
 
 :-)
 
 Patrick
 
 Oh, and for Dick: The flash comp has apparently been built into the 360. At least, 
that's my understanding.
 
 Doug
 
 -- 
 Douglas Forrest Brewer
 Ashwood Lake Photography
 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 http://www.alphoto.com
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Re: Flash for Z1p

2001-06-08 Thread Francis Tang

On Fri, Jun 08, 2001 at 05:30:04PM +0800, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Hi
 
 I have a non-original TTL flash (30 guide number) for my Z1p. If I use it together 
with the built-in flash (14 guide number), is it equal to 44 guide number?

No, guide numbers (GN) don't add together like that.

Two flashes of GN 10 together, will give you a GN of 14.

A flash of half the GN only gives out 1/4 as much light.

This is because the GN is the flash-subject distance multiplied by the aperture 
f-number.  This is no more than a device for mathematical computation (just like 
momentum in Newtonian mechanics has no physical meaning.)  So doubling the GN means 
that you can use the same aperture for a subject twice as far away, but since the 
subject is twice as far away, you need four times as much light.  Perhaps a more 
natural, from a photographer's point of view, way to look at it is that with twice the 
GN, you need to increase the f-number by a factor of two for the subject at the same 
distance; that is you have to close down the aperture by two stops, hence letting 1/4 
of the light in.

I don't think using the RTF flash will not give you any noticable extra power over the 
GN30 flash.  I guess it might be useful for fill purposes if you use the GN30 flash 
off camera, or bounced.

It was a good question though.  I wouldn't have asked myself this question, but now 
that I've thought about it, it's quite an interesting answer!

Yours,

Frank
(who has roots in HK.)

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student, LFCS, Edinburgh.
Visiting: AG14, FB Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: S215/215
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: Film development

2001-06-05 Thread Francis Tang

On Mon, Jun 04, 2001 at 10:29:00PM -0300, Eduardo Carone Costa Júnior wrote:
 Hi everybody,
 
 All these comments about learning how to make better photos and light did
 encourage me to ask for your advice about this --- perhaps
 naive ---situation:
 
 Sometimes I try make a scene look a bit darker, I mean, like a sunset where
 you can only distinguish the contours of the subject in the foreground, and
 I set the exposure accordingly. At this time, I use only negative film, BW
 or color, and I don't do my own developing or printing. When I take my films
 to the lab I usually end up with a grainny photo and the subject in the
 foreground is not as dark as I wanted it to be. I assume they are using the
 negative film's greater latitude than slide's to  compensate for the
 darker --- but on purpose --- exposure.
 
 Is there a kind of instruction I can give the lab to avoid this problem?
 Something like don't compensate exposure?

I guess it depends on how profesional your lab is.  In my experience, most 
consumer-grade photolabs are reluctant to turn-off compensation, because, as some of 
the have explained to me, some machines can't do it.  I, in my opinion, think that 
that is one of the main advantages of printing your own black and white: you get 
complete control and if anything goes wrong, it's only you to blame.  (Assuming that 
the guys at Kodak, Ilford or wherever have done their job right.)

I've recently been trying slide film, partly because I don't have a darkroom at the 
moment.  I don't like slides so much because I prefer prints (the physical 
presentation as opposed to the film), but I do like the control you get.  But I think 
I still miss black and white: I somehow can't see photographs in colour.

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student, LFCS, Edinburgh.
Visiting: AG14, Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: 2d/215
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Re: Mr. Stoopid's Darkroom Triumph

2001-06-04 Thread Francis Tang

On Mon, Jun 04, 2001 at 12:59:55AM -0600, William Robb wrote:
 
 - Original Message -
 From: Shel Belinkoff [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Pentax List [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: June 4, 2001 12:40 AM
 Subject: Mr. Stoopid's Darkroom Triumph
 
 
 Insert your tale of woe here
 
  May ~your~ darkroom experiences all be better than this one.
 
 OUCH
 Ummm, here is a little hint: Put a small quantity of stopbath
 into your fixer as part of your chemical mixing. It doesn't take
 much, all you want is a bit of acetic acid smell. Then, if it
 smells like stopbath, and you haven't used developer yet, you
 know it is time to stop pouring and start reading.
 All fixer formulations are acetic acid tolerant, and many
 formulae use it as an ingredient.

Exactly - OUCH!

Nice hint, but with the chemicals I use, the fixer is actually stronger smelling than 
the stop bath.  I think they've gone all environmentally friendly and use citric acid 
instead of acetic these days.

My routine involves using different measuring cylinders for dev stop and fix.  (We 
don't have a nice, matching set of cylinders.)  So after a while, it becomes routine - 
wouldn't think of putting fixer into the cylinder with the orange base, or developer 
in the tall transparent one with the crack down the side.  I suppose it's one of the 
few advantages of using a low-budget darkroom.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student, LFCS, Edinburgh.
Visiting: AG14, Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: 2d/215
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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28-105 FA 3.2-4.5

2001-06-04 Thread Francis Tang

Hello!

Does anyone know anything more than what is on Boz's site about the 28-105 FA 3.2-4.5? 
 I've been looking around to try and find a price, but no place seems to stock it!  
Does this lens really exist?  I remember from previous threads it was suggested that 
this is an original Pentax design, perhaps of the same lineage as the ever popular 
28-70/4 (as opposed to the Tamron designed 28-105/4-5.6) and the suspicion was that it 
would be similar to the 28-70/4 in performance.

I was just wondering if the new 28-105/3.2-4.5 plus the 20-35/4 would make a better 
combo than the supposedly very expensive 24-90.  I think I'd prefer the two lens 
setup, at the expense of build quality (or whatever the 24-90 is supposed to offer 
to justify its price tag), if the combined price is comparable.

Yours,

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student, LFCS, Edinburgh.
Visiting: AG14, Mathematik, TU Darmstadt, Deutschland.
Tel: +49 174/3545241 (D2 Voda)  ZNr: 2d/215
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/
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Interesting Pentax gear for sale in UK

2001-03-30 Thread Francis Tang

Hey PDMLers!

I just noticed this morning that MXV in the UK has just received a whole
lot of new Pentax Manual Focus gear, mostly in Mint- condition.  I just
ordered an A50/1.4 and M85/2 (yes I've read the discussions on this list
about that lens - no flames please because it's already burnt a hole in my
pocket.)

When I spoke to the guy on the phone, he said that most of the recent
additions came in yesterday (29th March) from a private collector who
collects Pentax no more.

It's probably worthwhile to take a browse:

http://www.mxv.co.uk/pentax_mf.htm

and other stuff at

http://www.mxv.co.uk/

I thought that this would interest the UK members most, but I think they
also ship outside of the UK. 

I hope some of you find something you've been looking for.

Yours,

Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/

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Re: Winder without grip for ME Super?

2001-03-30 Thread Francis Tang

On Fri, 30 Mar 2001, John Francis wrote, regarding ME II winder:

 When you push the button on the winder, it trips the shutter.
 So far so good.  But then you can hold the button down for as long
 as you like - the winder won't advance the film until you *release*
 the button (assuming, of course, that you have the winder set to
 single-frame mode).

Sorry John, but I don't that's quite right.

On both my ME II winders, when you press the release on the winder, it
trips the shutter *and* winds on.  On my MX winder, on the other hand, in
"S" mode it does not wind on until you release the trigger.

Perhaps you got the MX and MEII winders confused?

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/

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Has any one seen this: MZ-S for sale at 999ukp.

2001-01-16 Thread Francis Tang

I don't know any more about this but here's the URL:

http://members.nbci.com/leicastore/camerastore.html

it advertises the "MZ-S Pro Body".


Frank.

-- 
Francis Tang, Postgraduate Research Student.
LFCS, Div. of Informatics, Uni. of Edinburgh, EH9 3JZ, UK.
Tel: +44 131 6505185.  Fax: +44 131 6677209.  Office: 1603, JCMB, KB.
Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] WWW: http://www.dcs.ed.ac.uk/home/fhlt/

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