Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread Charles Robinson
On May 17, 2010, at 16:27, Toine wrote:

> Inside a can of "air" you can hear and feel a liquid It can't be
> compressed liguid air see:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerosol_spray
> 
> You would need something like this:
> 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_cylinder
> 
> The stuff you force inside your camera is an aerosol. At best it's a
> very pure aerosol, most likely it's not. Spray a little "air" on a
> clean UV filter and most likely it's dirty after cleaning.
> 

To elaborate, from Falconsafety.com (makers, I think, of the popular "Dust Off" 
brand):

"The Dust-Off brand offers two types of products: General Use and Special 
Application, while they function the same, the contents are different.

In the General Use Dusters, difluoroethane or 152a is the liquefied gas used as 
the propellant for generating the pressurized cleaning blast. The product is 
not flammable in accordance with flame extension tests outlined by the Consumer 
Product Safety Commission, however, under certain extreme circumstances it can 
be ignited.

In the Special Application Dusters, tetrafluoroethane or 134a is the liquefied 
gas used as the propellant for generating the pressurized cleaning blast. This 
product is 100% non-flammable and is used in sensitive environments like 
laboratories where the blast may be dispensed near a Bunson burner."

 -Charles

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread Toine
Inside a can of "air" you can hear and feel a liquid It can't be
compressed liguid air see:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aerosol_spray

You would need something like this:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gas_cylinder

The stuff you force inside your camera is an aerosol. At best it's a
very pure aerosol, most likely it's not. Spray a little "air" on a
clean UV filter and most likely it's dirty after cleaning.

Toine

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread Charles Robinson
On May 17, 2010, at 15:28, eckinator wrote:

> 2010/5/17 Bob Sullivan :
>> Canned air, purchased at the local Frys electronics outlet, is not suitable.
>> I briefly tested a bit before any camera use and found a residue.
>> Having the useless can around, I looked for other opportunities to use it..
>> After cleaning the grill with a wire brush, I had bits of charcoled
>> food around the top.
>> I thought 'Canned Air' and used some while the grill was already afire.
>> It looked like 'The Great and Powerful OZ' with a giant flame and
>> cloud of smoke.
>> And it said right on the can, Non-Flamible!
>> Give the canned air to someone you don't like.
>> It's not for cameras.
> 
> LOL... oxygen force feed any fire and you'll see bursts of
> affection... but chemically they are correct, oxygen doesn't burn, it
> takes two to tango...
> 

Yabbut, that stuff in the cans is rarely oxygen.  I mean, there may be some IN 
there, but that's only part of it.

All the same, the whoosh of whatever gas in there probably fans the flames 
nicely.

 -Charles

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread eckinator
2010/5/17 Bob Sullivan :
> Canned air, purchased at the local Frys electronics outlet, is not suitable.
> I briefly tested a bit before any camera use and found a residue.
> Having the useless can around, I looked for other opportunities to use it..
> After cleaning the grill with a wire brush, I had bits of charcoled
> food around the top.
> I thought 'Canned Air' and used some while the grill was already afire.
> It looked like 'The Great and Powerful OZ' with a giant flame and
> cloud of smoke.
> And it said right on the can, Non-Flamible!
> Give the canned air to someone you don't like.
> It's not for cameras.

LOL... oxygen force feed any fire and you'll see bursts of
affection... but chemically they are correct, oxygen doesn't burn, it
takes two to tango...

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread Bob Sullivan
Canned air, purchased at the local Frys electronics outlet, is not suitable.
I briefly tested a bit before any camera use and found a residue.
Having the useless can around, I looked for other opportunities to use it..
After cleaning the grill with a wire brush, I had bits of charcoled
food around the top.
I thought 'Canned Air' and used some while the grill was already afire.
It looked like 'The Great and Powerful OZ' with a giant flame and
cloud of smoke.
And it said right on the can, Non-Flamible!
Give the canned air to someone you don't like.
It's not for cameras.
Regards,  Bob S.

On Mon, May 17, 2010 at 10:37 AM, William Robb  wrote:
>
> - Original Message ----- From: "Larry Colen"
> Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
>
>
>
>> I was trying to blow some stubborn dust of the mirror.  It frosted up,
>>  and when the frost cleared the edge of the mirror was discolored.
>>
>
> Short puffs.
> And don't ever clean your mirror.
>
> William Robb
>
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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread eckinator
2010/5/17 William Robb :
>
> Short puffs.
> And don't ever clean your mirror.

And never huff or you may blow it down =P

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Colen"

Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors



I was trying to blow some stubborn dust of the mirror.  It frosted up,  
and when the frost cleared the edge of the mirror was discolored.




Short puffs.
And don't ever clean your mirror.

William Robb

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-17 Thread Larry Colen


On May 16, 2010, at 5:05 PM, William Robb wrote:



- Original Message - From: "Larry Colen"
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors





I didn't wreck a camera with canned air, but I did damage the  
mirror  in my K100 by cleaning it with canned air.




I'm almost afraid to ask how you managed that, but I'll ask anyway.

So, how did yoiu manage to be such a clumsy oaf that you damaged  
your camera?


I was trying to blow some stubborn dust of the mirror.  It frosted up,  
and when the frost cleared the edge of the mirror was discolored.





William Robb

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread John Sessoms

From: Steven Desjardins

I use canned air.  It's pretty fast so unless your battery is nearly
dead you should be able to pull it off before the mirror comes back.
Obviously, don't get the tube so close to the sensor that the
cryogenic liquid actually collects on the surface of the sensor.
Also, if something were to get in there larger than dust you could
blow it around hard enough to nick the sensor.  Also be sure you don't
accidently grab the WD-40.


Problems with canned "air" as I understand them can be threefold:

1. If you are ham-handed and get the propellant on the sensor it can 
leave a sticky residue that attracts more dust. I HAVE SEEN this one, 
and am just glad it was NOT ME who effed it up.


2. Some canned "air" uses a solvent propellant that will etch the 
surface if you get it on there.


3. Too high pressure may damage the sensor surface.

According to one site, the sensor has an IR filter over it, so you don't 
damage the actual sensor, just the IR filter - which may (??) be 
replaceable without replacing the sensor. Might not cost as much?


Still whatever the cost, it's too high if you have to both pay and admit 
you did something stupid. Sometimes the social costs are more than the 
actual dollar charge.


Plus, you're deprived of your camera until it comes back from repair.

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread paul stenquist

On May 16, 2010, at 8:19 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

> On 5/16/2010 7:49 PM, William Robb wrote:
>> 
>> - Original Message - From: "frank theriault"
>> Subject: Cleaning Sensors
>> 
>> 
>>> Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.
>>> 
>>> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?
>>> 
>>> If I can do it myself, how?
>>> 
>>> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
>>> 
>>> Thanks!
>> 
>> This make people cringe, but I lock the mirror up and shoot the sensor with 
>> canned gas.
>> It seems to work, and I haven't hurt anything yet.
>> I mentioned this on ForumsNeurotica and got soundly thrashed for 
>> recommending a cleaning method that would surely wreck the camera, so I 
>> challenged the good people there to come up with one single instance where 
>> they could verify canned gas wrecking a camera.
>> The closest I got was a guy who met a guy coming out of a camera store who 
>> had apparently done some damage to his camera while cleaning it, but it 
>> wasn't really verifiable that the canned gas was the culprit...
>> 
>> William Robb
>> 
> I do the same thing.  Buy a good quality brand and there's no problems.  I 
> did have a bargain price product that spit liquid propellant, which would 
> probably craze the low pass filter, but I'd never use that on anything 
> sensitive.
> 
I've ruined negatives with cans of gas that spit liquid. I definitely wouldn't 
risk using it on a sensor. Yeah, you can probably get away with it most of the 
time. But why take a chance? There are better tools with which to clean a 
sensor.
Paul

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread P. J. Alling

On 5/16/2010 7:49 PM, William Robb wrote:


- Original Message - From: "frank theriault"
Subject: Cleaning Sensors



Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.

Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?

If I can do it myself, how?

If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?

Thanks!


This make people cringe, but I lock the mirror up and shoot the sensor 
with canned gas.

It seems to work, and I haven't hurt anything yet.
I mentioned this on ForumsNeurotica and got soundly thrashed for 
recommending a cleaning method that would surely wreck the camera, so 
I challenged the good people there to come up with one single instance 
where they could verify canned gas wrecking a camera.
The closest I got was a guy who met a guy coming out of a camera store 
who had apparently done some damage to his camera while cleaning it, 
but it wasn't really verifiable that the canned gas was the culprit...


William Robb

I do the same thing.  Buy a good quality brand and there's no problems.  
I did have a bargain price product that spit liquid propellant, which 
would probably craze the low pass filter, but I'd never use that on 
anything sensitive.


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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Steven Desjardins
Lock the mirror open, lay the camera on the floor, and urinate on the
sensor. I've never heard of a single instance where this failed.
(Don't kill me Bill)


I use canned air.  It's pretty fast so unless your battery is nearly
dead you should be able to pull it off before the mirror comes back.
Obviously, don't get the tube so close to the sensor that the
cryogenic liquid actually collects on the surface of the sensor.
Also, if something were to get in there larger than dust you could
blow it around hard enough to nick the sensor.  Also be sure you don't
accidently grab the WD-40.

On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 8:03 PM, Larry Colen  wrote:
>
> On May 16, 2010, at 4:49 PM, William Robb wrote:
>
>>
>> This make people cringe, but I lock the mirror up and shoot the sensor
>> with canned gas.
>> It seems to work, and I haven't hurt anything yet.
>> I mentioned this on ForumsNeurotica and got soundly thrashed for
>> recommending a cleaning method that would surely wreck the camera, so I
>> challenged the good people there to come up with one single instance where
>> they could verify canned gas wrecking a camera.
>> The closest I got was a guy who met a guy coming out of a camera store who
>> had apparently done some damage to his camera while cleaning it, but it
>> wasn't really verifiable that the canned gas was the culprit...
>
> I didn't wreck a camera with canned air, but I did damage the mirror in my
> K100 by cleaning it with canned air.
>>
>
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>
>
>
>
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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "Larry Colen"

Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors





I didn't wreck a camera with canned air, but I did damage the mirror  in 
my K100 by cleaning it with canned air.




I'm almost afraid to ask how you managed that, but I'll ask anyway.

So, how did yoiu manage to be such a clumsy oaf that you damaged your 
camera?


William Robb 



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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Bong Manayon
On Mon, May 17, 2010 at 7:49 AM, William Robb  wrote:
> This make people cringe, but I lock the mirror up and shoot the sensor with
> canned gas.
> It seems to work, and I haven't hurt anything yet.
> I mentioned this on ForumsNeurotica and got soundly thrashed for
> recommending a cleaning method that would surely wreck the camera, so I
> challenged the good people there to come up with one single instance where
> they could verify canned gas wrecking a camera.
> The closest I got was a guy who met a guy coming out of a camera store who
> had apparently done some damage to his camera while cleaning it, but it
> wasn't really verifiable that the canned gas was the culprit...
>
> William Robb
>

I have not heard anything about canned gas this side of the world.
Interviewing, a local technician (remember those things are built
here...), the thing to worry about is the mirror crashing down on you
while you're wiping the sensor because the battery died.  They
mention, as a rule, that they have an AC adapter to make sure that
does not happened.

Bong

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Larry Colen


On May 16, 2010, at 4:49 PM, William Robb wrote:



This make people cringe, but I lock the mirror up and shoot the  
sensor with canned gas.

It seems to work, and I haven't hurt anything yet.
I mentioned this on ForumsNeurotica and got soundly thrashed for  
recommending a cleaning method that would surely wreck the camera,  
so I challenged the good people there to come up with one single  
instance where they could verify canned gas wrecking a camera.
The closest I got was a guy who met a guy coming out of a camera  
store who had apparently done some damage to his camera while  
cleaning it, but it wasn't really verifiable that the canned gas was  
the culprit...


I didn't wreck a camera with canned air, but I did damage the mirror  
in my K100 by cleaning it with canned air.




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Larry Colen l...@red4est.com sent from i4est





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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "frank theriault"

Subject: Cleaning Sensors



Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.

Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?

If I can do it myself, how?

If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?

Thanks!


This make people cringe, but I lock the mirror up and shoot the sensor with 
canned gas.

It seems to work, and I haven't hurt anything yet.
I mentioned this on ForumsNeurotica and got soundly thrashed for 
recommending a cleaning method that would surely wreck the camera, so I 
challenged the good people there to come up with one single instance where 
they could verify canned gas wrecking a camera.
The closest I got was a guy who met a guy coming out of a camera store who 
had apparently done some damage to his camera while cleaning it, but it 
wasn't really verifiable that the canned gas was the culprit...


William Robb 



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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread paul stenquist

On May 16, 2010, at 5:54 PM, John Sessoms wrote:

> From: frank theriault
>> Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.
>> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?
>> If I can do it myself, how?
>> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
> 
> My personal choice is to leave it to the professional. I'm afraid I'd be a 
> little ham-handed and could end up spending a LOT more for repairs.
> 
> If you're going to attempt it yourself, start here:
> 
> http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/index.html
> 
> Forty to fifty dollars USD is not unreasonable IF the shop does a good job. I 
> had it done once a year.
> 
> The problem is finding a shop that DOES do a good job. I wouldn't trust most 
> chain stores (like Wolf/Ritz).
> 
> Nikon/Canon offered cleanings at $40 per at the CNPA (Carolinas Nature 
> Photography Association) annual convention, and they would take all comers, 
> Nikon/Canon or not ... up until this year when Nikon dropped out and the 
> Canon rep would only do Canon.
> 
> Don't know yet who I'm going to go to now.
> 

I wouldn't trust anyone cleaning my sensor other than the manufacturer's 
service center. And I'd be nervous about having them do it. 

I simply use an ear blower that was sterile when I bought it. It's kept in a 
box when not in use. If it can't remove a speck, I use the Pentax sensor 
cleaner, which is quite easy to use and very effective:
http://www.amazon.com/Pentax-Image-Sensor-Cleaning-O-ICK1/product-reviews/B0018ODLH6/ref=dp_top_cm_cr_acr_txt?ie=UTF8&showViewpoints=1

As one user notes in the amazon reviews, it looks like the kit includes less 
than a buck worth of material. But it works very well. To me, that makes it a 
good buy.

Paul


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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Rick Womer
Frank,

It's not hard.

My Giotto Rocket blower usually takes care of things.  I prefer Pec Pads and 
Eclipse fluid to the Pentax cleaning kit, personally.

Rick

http://photo.net/photos/RickW


--- On Sun, 5/16/10, frank theriault  wrote:

> From: frank theriault 
> Subject: Cleaning Sensors
> To: "Pentax-Discuss Mail List" 
> Date: Sunday, May 16, 2010, 8:03 AM
> Or more specifically the sensor in my
> *istD.
> 
> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to
> professionals?
> 
> If I can do it myself, how?
> 
> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> cheers,
> frank
> 
> -- 
> "Sharpness is a bourgeois concept."  -Henri
> Cartier-Bresson
> 
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RE: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread John Sessoms

From: frank theriault

Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.

Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?

If I can do it myself, how?

If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?


My personal choice is to leave it to the professional. I'm afraid I'd be 
a little ham-handed and could end up spending a LOT more for repairs.


If you're going to attempt it yourself, start here:

http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/index.html

Forty to fifty dollars USD is not unreasonable IF the shop does a good 
job. I had it done once a year.


The problem is finding a shop that DOES do a good job. I wouldn't trust 
most chain stores (like Wolf/Ritz).


Nikon/Canon offered cleanings at $40 per at the CNPA (Carolinas Nature 
Photography Association) annual convention, and they would take all 
comers, Nikon/Canon or not ... up until this year when Nikon dropped out 
and the Canon rep would only do Canon.


Don't know yet who I'm going to go to now.

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread eckinator
2010/5/16 Dario Bonazza :
> Toine wrote:
>
>> If you can find the Pentax sensor cleaning kit OCK1 or something like
>> that grab it. It works wonders and it's easy to use. I saw a movie
>> from the Leica factory and they also used the pentax cleaning kit!
>
> http://www.pentaxfoto.it/it/group/37/product/39357/body/overview/accessories.html
> I also use that wand, and I'm not even remotely Leica! Seriously, the O-ICK1
> works smooth, effective and without risks. I shoot a lot in front of the
> stage at feet level while musicians play, dance and scream, with a lot (and
> I mean A LOT) of dust floating around and getting inside the camera while
> changing lenses, and it' works flawlessly. Since then, cleaning sensors is
> no longer a nightmare.

Thirded! I use it, too.
Cheers
Ecke

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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Dario Bonazza

Toine wrote:


If you can find the Pentax sensor cleaning kit OCK1 or something like
that grab it. It works wonders and it's easy to use. I saw a movie
from the Leica factory and they also used the pentax cleaning kit!


http://www.pentaxfoto.it/it/group/37/product/39357/body/overview/accessories.html
I also use that wand, and I'm not even remotely Leica! Seriously, the O-ICK1 
works smooth, effective and without risks. I shoot a lot in front of the 
stage at feet level while musicians play, dance and scream, with a lot (and 
I mean A LOT) of dust floating around and getting inside the camera while 
changing lenses, and it' works flawlessly. Since then, cleaning sensors is 
no longer a nightmare.


Dario 



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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Toine
If you can find the Pentax sensor cleaning kit OCK1 or something like
that grab it. It works wonders and it's easy to use. I saw a movie
from the Leica factory and they also used the pentax cleaning kit!


On 16 May 2010 14:03, frank theriault  wrote:
> Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.
>
> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?
>
> If I can do it myself, how?
>
> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
>
> Thanks!
>
> cheers,
> frank
>
> --
> "Sharpness is a bourgeois concept."  -Henri Cartier-Bresson
>
> --
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RE: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Chris Mitchell
frank theriault wrote:
> Subject: Cleaning Sensors
> 
> Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.
> 
> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?
> 
> If I can do it myself, how?
> 
> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> cheers,
> frank
Frank, My *istD was very susceptible to dust and I cleaned it 3 or 4 times.
The 10D and K7 don't seem to gather dust (perhaps the shaker option works
well?) and I've cleaned them both once. I find I've had to do all of the
following each time:

1. Use the sensor shaker (I can't remember whether the *istD hasn't got this
as it may be a by-product of shake reduction)
2. Use a blower
3. I've got an Arctic Butterfly from http://www.visibledust.com/ and I use
this next
4. Wet clean with a spatula covered with a Pec Pad and a few drops of
Eclipse cleaning fluid.

The first 3 steps are non-intrusive and if they work are best, but they've
never got rid of every spec for me. You need a good nerve to use the wet
cleaning system for the first time, but I've found it to be simple and gives
the best results. You will need to judge for yourself of course. I got mine
from these guys:
http://www.copperhillimages.com/shopping/pgm-more_information.php?id=3&=SID#
MOREINFO
http://tinyurl.com/3x4qhk2

and there's a tutorial here:
http://www.copperhillimages.com/index.php?pr=tutorials1
http://tinyurl.com/3axkmpo

I had to buy the Eclipse fluid separately in the UK as it can't be shipped
overseas.

Chris





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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Fernando
I did 3 methods in the past -I kinda don't clean sensors anymore in
the new cameras because the come with a new coating that seems to
repel things from building up.

In this order when I have to clean a sensor I try:
1) Blowinng -with a blower, I use some cheap Giottos blower
2) A brush -I use this expensive "Sensor Brush" from VisibleDust but
there is a DIY version in
http://www.prime-junta.net/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sensor.html
3) Finally if everything else fails I do the "wet method" (AKA
"Copperhill method") I got my stuff from www.copperhillimages.com but
there are some disposable ones called "Sensor Swabs"

I never brought it to a shop so I don't know what's reasonable.

PS: If you want to DIY and can't build up courage let me know if you
want me to help.

On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 8:03 AM, frank theriault
 wrote:
> Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.
>
> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?
>
> If I can do it myself, how?
>
> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
>
> Thanks!
>
> cheers,
> frank
>
> --
> "Sharpness is a bourgeois concept."  -Henri Cartier-Bresson
>
> --
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> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
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> the directions.
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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread David J Brooks
For the most part a good blower seems to keep my sensore clean enough.
I have yet to build up the courage to wet clean any of mine.
I had to wet clean my D1 after i bought it. Sensore was filthy and i
took it to Nikon in Mississauga. IIRC it was $90 plus the governments
cut.

Dave

On Sun, May 16, 2010 at 8:03 AM, frank theriault
 wrote:
> Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.
>
> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?
>
> If I can do it myself, how?
>
> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
>
> Thanks!
>
> cheers,
> frank
>
> --
> "Sharpness is a bourgeois concept."  -Henri Cartier-Bresson
>
> --
> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
> PDML@pdml.net
> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
> to UNSUBSCRIBE from the PDML, please visit the link directly above and follow 
> the directions.
>



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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2010-05-16 Thread Brian Walters
G'day Frank

On Sun, 16 May 2010 08:03 -0400, "frank theriault"
 wrote:
> Or more specifically the sensor in my *istD.
> 
> Is this a do-at-home project or something best left to professionals?
> 
> If I can do it myself, how?
> 
> If I take it to a shop, what's a reasonable price?
> 



I've cleaned the sensor in my *istDS several times without any
disasters.  Building up the courage to do it is the biggest hurdle.

I use a three step approach:

1. The bulb blower.  If that doesn't clean the sensor satisfactorily, I
move on to:

2. An artists nylon brush.  And if further cleaning is needed:

3. The wet swab.  For this step I use a home made spatula about the same
width as the height of the sensor, covered with a PecPad and with a
couple of drops of Eclipse cleaning fluid applied.

A couple of references, if you decide to take the plunge:

http://www.prime-junta.net/pont/How_to/a_Brush_Your_Sensor/a_Brush_Your_Sensor.html

http://www.cleaningdigitalcameras.com/index.html


Interestingly, I've so far not needed to clean the sensor on my K200D -
the few dust spots that appear are easily cloned out in post processing.
 It seems that the dust remove function of the K200D actually works
reasonably well.


Cheers

Brian

++
Brian Walters
Western Sydney Australia
http://members.westnet.com.au/brianwal/SL/
-- 


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Re: Cleaning sensors

2007-01-02 Thread Don Williams
The astronomers sometimes cool their cameras to reduce noise for very 
long exposures. There are cooled cameras for microscopy as well. My main 
interest at the moment is high resolution stills and videos of protists 
where I have plenty of light so noise is not really a problem. But I'll 
be using UV soon and it will become troublesome at once. All I do is 
change the lenses in these cameras so that the camera lens covers the 
exit pupil of the photo eyepiece. For the Quickcam Pro 4000 a 12mm 
Marshall lens is a good choice and is well corrected and coated. But 
since it's really only working as a transfer lens it's far less 
important that the eyepiece. I use Leitz Photo Periplan eyepieces and 
Leica objectives for bright field and Lomo for phase contrast. The 
Pentax *ist D is used for low magnification photomicrography only 
because the Webcam 640 x 480 (and 1280 x 960) is more than enough for 
20X objectives and above.

D (NPP)

Jostein Øksne wrote:
> In the amateur astronomy circles, mod'ed webcams are also very
> popular. Are their modifications in the same line as yours?
>
> Jostein
>
> On 1/2/07, Don Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>   
>> I use a modified web camera for photomicrography. It makes good stills
>> and videos at high magnification. The modification involves removing the
>> lens mount from the circuit board (exposing the CCD) cutting off a
>> millimeter or so to enable a 12mm Marshall lens, that replaces the
>> original, to focus to infinity. The CCD gets crap on it very easily. At
>> the magnifications I use -- 1200X and more the dust specs are like
>> boulders covering detail in the specimens. Cleaning is a very difficult
>> job. because taking it all to pieces and putting it back outside a clean
>> room is hopeless. I tried working with the camera inside a plastic bag,
>> doesn't help much, if at all. Cleaning the *ist D sensor is a piece of
>> cake. I use a Zerostat (probably contains Polonium isotopes) to give it
>> a preliminary blow and then a Pasteur pipette with a rubber bulb on the
>> back to give a final puff or two. So far it has been successful. But the
>> Quickcam Pro is a real pain. I'm going to make a small hood -- wire
>> frame and plastic sheet to work in before I try again.
>>
>> D (NPP)
>>
>> --
>> Dr E D F Williams
>> www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/
>> http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams/
>> 41660 TOIVAKKA – Finland - +358400706616
>>
>>
>> --
>> PDML Pentax-Discuss Mail List
>> PDML@pdml.net
>> http://pdml.net/mailman/listinfo/pdml_pdml.net
>>
>> 
>
>   


-- 
Dr E D F Williams
www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/
http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams/
41660 TOIVAKKA – Finland - +358400706616


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Re: Cleaning sensors

2007-01-02 Thread Jostein Øksne
In the amateur astronomy circles, mod'ed webcams are also very
popular. Are their modifications in the same line as yours?

Jostein

On 1/2/07, Don Williams <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> I use a modified web camera for photomicrography. It makes good stills
> and videos at high magnification. The modification involves removing the
> lens mount from the circuit board (exposing the CCD) cutting off a
> millimeter or so to enable a 12mm Marshall lens, that replaces the
> original, to focus to infinity. The CCD gets crap on it very easily. At
> the magnifications I use -- 1200X and more the dust specs are like
> boulders covering detail in the specimens. Cleaning is a very difficult
> job. because taking it all to pieces and putting it back outside a clean
> room is hopeless. I tried working with the camera inside a plastic bag,
> doesn't help much, if at all. Cleaning the *ist D sensor is a piece of
> cake. I use a Zerostat (probably contains Polonium isotopes) to give it
> a preliminary blow and then a Pasteur pipette with a rubber bulb on the
> back to give a final puff or two. So far it has been successful. But the
> Quickcam Pro is a real pain. I'm going to make a small hood -- wire
> frame and plastic sheet to work in before I try again.
>
> D (NPP)
>
> --
> Dr E D F Williams
> www.kolumbus.fi/mimosa/
> http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams/
> 41660 TOIVAKKA – Finland - +358400706616
>
>
> --
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Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-30 Thread Ann Sanfedele
Re: sensors or lenses or eyeglasses that are
multicoated -
what do you guys know of or think of something
called Galaxy?

A friend out west had some and I used it on my
multicoated eye glasses
(not glass) I guess you have to de-dust first
somehow though.

Living in NY and leaving all my windows open all
the time it is dust city here.

Does blue tack come in rolls by the yard??? vbg of
course

ann



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread brooksdj
I find my istD requires a blow off, every week or so. For some reason, the D2H 
which is
used in very dusty conditions, 
might need a cleaning every few months.
I have no explaination for this.

I just use a good huricane blower.Seems to work for most applications.


Word of warning.Don't blow on sensor with your mouth. It cost me $90.00 to have 
the thing
cleaned at Nikon.Not from me 
but the guy i bought the camera off of did that, and i get to fix.

Dave


> WR> - Original Message - 
> WR> From: "Markus Maurer"
> WR> Subject: RE: Cleaning Sensors
> 
> 
> >> Hi William and Shel
> >>
> >> Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
> >> sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
> >> other brands?
> >> For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
> >> quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
> >> I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure
> >> plate
> >> when I change film if it is clean.
> 
> WR> Film is nice, the dust has a moving target..
> 
> WR> William Robb 
> 
> 
> 
> 






Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread keith_w

Herb Chong wrote:

a guy on the Minolta mailing list uses Scotch Magic Transparent Tape. no 
thanks.


Herb


Oh. _Sensors_.
I thought it said "Seniors" so I've been missing all these great pieces 
of advise!


keith


- Original Message - From: "Godfrey DiGiorgi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors



I agree. Never stick *anything* to the sensor.




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread Rob Studdert
On 29 Oct 2005 at 14:13, Boris Liberman wrote:

> Could be... I try to keep my mind away from the dust so that it does not 
> bother me all too much ;-).

The chrome is steadily wearing off my mount to reveal brass so I suspect that a 
lot of my sensor "dust" is actually ground up lens mount.


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread Rob Studdert
On 29 Oct 2005 at 11:57, Don Williams wrote:

> Did I not already say that there would 
> be no residue? Try it yourself Rob and 
> get back to us. Unless you can't get 
> real blue tack down there in fly heaven.

Yes it's Bostik, It had never ever crossed my mind to try the stuff on a lens, 
I don't know how many hours I've spent getting the stuff off speakers and other 
h-fi gear and how many bits of paper and walls I've seen with big oily Blu-tack 
stains on them. But hell I gave it a try on a HMC filter and it left no mark. I 
won't be using it on my sensor though, the glass isn't too thick. From the 
mechanical spec's of the sensor the cover glass is 0.70 ± 0.10mm
 
> Is this the time for funny smiling 
> faces? I never use them.

:-)


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread Boris Liberman

Hi!

Shel, I have a suggestion which is related to your question only 
indirectly. When you switch lenses I (humbly) suggest you turn off the 
camera... I started doing it about a month ago. I should say that it 
does indeed reduce the amount of dust your sensor may be collecting. It 
did for me... And I change the lenses outdoors at least half of the time.


But of course it will if you don't use your camera Boris. Put it in a dark 
corner some place , never turn it on and you will have zero dust problems :-)


The inference that the sensor somehow attracts dust whilst it is on I think you 
will find is flawed. You have been the recipient of good luck I'd suggest.


Could be... I try to keep my mind away from the dust so that it does not 
bother me all too much ;-).


Boris



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread Herb Chong
a guy on the Minolta mailing list uses Scotch Magic Transparent Tape. no 
thanks.


Herb
- Original Message - 
From: "Godfrey DiGiorgi" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: 
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 1:31 AM
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors



I agree. Never stick *anything* to the sensor.





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread keith_w

Rob Studdert wrote:


On 29 Oct 2005 at 1:21, P. J. Alling wrote:


I expect that the sensor cover is exceedingly thin, while blue tack 
sounds like it would be wonderful for cleaning relatively thick glass, I 
may look into it for lenses, I would be afraid of putting too much 
pressure on the sensor cover and causing it to crack. 



I suspect too that since it's so close to the imaging surface the big greasy 
smudges that the Blu-tack leaves... 


Is that comment re residues from personal experience, Rob?

keith


...will affect image quality particularly at small apertures.


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998







Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-29 Thread Don Williams
Did I not already say that there would 
be no residue? Try it yourself Rob and 
get back to us. Unless you can't get 
real blue tack down there in fly heaven.


Is this the time for funny smiling 
faces? I never use them.


Don

Rob Studdert wrote:

On 29 Oct 2005 at 1:21, P. J. Alling wrote:

I expect that the sensor cover is exceedingly thin, while blue tack 
sounds like it would be wonderful for cleaning relatively thick glass, I 
may look into it for lenses, I would be afraid of putting too much 
pressure on the sensor cover and causing it to crack. 


I suspect too that since it's so close to the imaging surface the big greasy 
smudges that the Blu-tack leaves will affect image quality particularly at 
small apertures.



Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998





--
Dr E D F Williams
___
http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams
See feature: The Cement Company from Hell
Updated: Photomicro Link -- 18 05 2005



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Rob Studdert
On 29 Oct 2005 at 1:21, P. J. Alling wrote:

> I expect that the sensor cover is exceedingly thin, while blue tack 
> sounds like it would be wonderful for cleaning relatively thick glass, I 
> may look into it for lenses, I would be afraid of putting too much 
> pressure on the sensor cover and causing it to crack. 

I suspect too that since it's so close to the imaging surface the big greasy 
smudges that the Blu-tack leaves will affect image quality particularly at 
small apertures.


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi


On Oct 28, 2005, at 10:21 PM, P. J. Alling wrote:

I expect that the sensor cover is exceedingly thin, while blue tack  
sounds like it would be wonderful for cleaning relatively thick  
glass, I may look into it for lenses, I would be afraid of putting  
too much pressure on the sensor cover and causing it to crack.


I agree. Never stick *anything* to the sensor.

Godfrey



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread P. J. Alling
I expect that the sensor cover is exceedingly thin, while blue tack 
sounds like it would be wonderful for cleaning relatively thick glass, I 
may look into it for lenses, I would be afraid of putting too much 
pressure on the sensor cover and causing it to crack. 


Don Williams wrote:

Although the *ist D is the first 'undedicated' digital camera I have 
it is not the first digital device with CCD sensors, or the first 
fussy optical device I've needed to clean. The work I do is fussy and 
dust blobs not only mess up the interpretation of photomicrographs 
they are terribly annoying as well.


I've tried all kind of cleaning methods. Methanol on Ross tissue. 
Brushes cleaned and prepared in different ways. Now I use 'Blue Tack'. 
Not only on sensors, but on microscope objectives, camera lenses, 
eyepieces and other optical components. Although Blue Tack *must* 
leave something behind after it is peeled off, this trace amount of 
plasticizer, or solvent, or whatever, is invisible, undetectable and 
does not effect the optical properties in any way. In my laboratory, 
in days of yore, we used collodion. A solution (in chloroform) was 
poured over the surface of the (very expensive) lens or flat and when 
it had dried was peeled off leaving a pristine surface. There are very 
expensive lens cleaning solutions available now that are used the same 
way. However, I clean microscope objectives that cost thousands of 
dollars with blue tack without the slightest qualm.


Cut a piece a little larger than the sensor, press it firmly to the 
surface making sure it makes contact everywhere. Then get hold of one 
end (I use forceps) and peel it off. The surface of the window will be 
as clean as you'll ever get it considering where it is inside the 
camera. I use the stuff over and over again keeping it in a dust free 
flat screw top container. I cleaned a lens five inches in diameter the 
other day. For economical reasons did it in sections. I used a piece 
of blue tack about an inch square and moved it about. To clean a very 
tiny lens -- 2mm or less in diameter (the end of a microscope 
objective) I make a sharp point and press in firmly again the mount 
including the metal.


If this worries you, or if the 'blue tack' you have is suspect, get 
hold of a dusty lens that doesn't matter too much and try it. Do it a 
dozen times with the same piece of 'tack' and you'll see how effective 
this method can be. You can find Blue Tack at Glubie Glue in Indiana 
-- I think.


Don

P. J. Alling wrote:

As long as you don't have any particularly recalcitrant dust it 
should be sufficient.


Shel Belinkoff wrote:


Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the 
actual pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for 
protection,

and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles 
removed.  Is

that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel

 









--
When you're worried or in doubt, 
	Run in circles, (scream and shout).




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "graywolf" 
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors



I think I have mentioned the Wal-Mart tech who came across the lab to 
see what I wanted dragging a customers film on the floor behind him. 
Say, Wheatfield, did he learn his lab techniques from you ?


If he was stepping on them to, the yes.

William Robb



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread David Mann

On Oct 28, 2005, at 11:44 PM, Paul Stenquist wrote:

Nothing is worse than having to clean film. My sensor gets nowhere  
near as dirty as do those negatives in the lab. I used to figure at  
least thirty minutes cleaning every scan. UGH.


That's why I started using dICE with my scanner.  It takes a bit  
longer to scan but it saves me lots of time later.


Dust wasn't too much of a problem at 2400ppi but at 4800 it picks up  
so much microscopic muck that you just don't want to bother :)


- Dave



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Shel Belinkoff
I do, Boris ...

Shel 


> [Original Message]
> From: Boris Liberman 

> Shel, I have a suggestion which is related to your question only 
> indirectly. When you switch lenses I (humbly) suggest you turn off the 
> camera... I started doing it about a month ago. I should say that it 
> does indeed reduce the amount of dust your sensor may be collecting. It 
> did for me... And I change the lenses outdoors at least half of the time.




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread graywolf
I think I have mentioned the Wal-Mart tech who came across the lab to 
see what I wanted dragging a customers film on the floor behind him. 
Say, Wheatfield, did he learn his lab techniques from you ?


graywolf
http://www.graywolfphoto.com
"Idiot Proof" <==> "Expert Proof"
---



Tom C wrote:

Could also be the use of minilabs operated by untrained or uncaring 
personnel in a rush to get the stuff out the door.


Hadn't thought about the point source thing.  WR surprises me 
sometimes. :)


Tom C.





From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 10:07:34 -0600


- Original Message - From: "graywolf"
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors


Howcome so many folks here have/had all these troubles with dust and 
scratches on negatives?



I think the advent of point source scanners showed a lot of scratches 
that were invisible with diffusion printing.
A lot of my negs from one lab were pretty much unusable as scanned 
negs, but just fine if enlarged in a darkroom.


William Robb










Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Rob Studdert
On 28 Oct 2005 at 11:32, graywolf wrote:

> Howcome so many folks here have/had all these troubles with dust and 
> scratches on negatives? I have only had much of a problem when I did 
> something stupid, which was often enough but aviodable with a little 
> effort on my part. Wear those disposable white cotton gloves, blow off 
> the negative before putting it in the enlarger and after removing it, 
> then put it back into the negative sleeve, and never never leave an 
> unprotected negative laying around (this was always my biggest problem).

I have never had problems with my negs but anything that comes from an outside 
lab inevitably sports scratches for some reason. I don't even let labs cut and 
sleeve my films these days. Also as Bill mentioned certain light sources make 
scratches more apparent. 

My previous scanner used cold cathode illumination which was condensed but 
still relatively soft whereas my current nikon scanner uses LED for 
illumination. The light is mixed by firing the LEDs into both ends of a glass 
rod which has a white reflective area along one edge so it remains somewhat 
directional. The long and short of it is that the LED system really tends to 
make the smallest of scratches very visible in the scan, the cold cathode 
illumination wasn't near as bad.

Cheers,


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Rob Studdert
On 28 Oct 2005 at 6:44, Paul Stenquist wrote:

> Nothing is worse than having to clean film. My sensor gets nowhere near 
> as dirty as do those negatives in the lab. I used to figure at least 
> thirty minutes cleaning every scan. UGH.

I've had some pretty bad sensor dust problems that I've only found out about 
well after the shooting session, some have required extensive cloning on all 
usable images from the session. Dust on film I've never found to be a real 
problem but I did invest in good dust management too, scratches on film is what 
kills me.


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Rob Studdert
On 28 Oct 2005 at 20:03, Boris Liberman wrote:

> Shel, I have a suggestion which is related to your question only 
> indirectly. When you switch lenses I (humbly) suggest you turn off the 
> camera... I started doing it about a month ago. I should say that it 
> does indeed reduce the amount of dust your sensor may be collecting. It 
> did for me... And I change the lenses outdoors at least half of the time.

But of course it will if you don't use your camera Boris. Put it in a dark 
corner some place , never turn it on and you will have zero dust problems :-)

The inference that the sensor somehow attracts dust whilst it is on I think you 
will find is flawed. You have been the recipient of good luck I'd suggest.

Cheers,


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Boris Liberman

Hi!


Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed.  Is
that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel, I have a suggestion which is related to your question only 
indirectly. When you switch lenses I (humbly) suggest you turn off the 
camera... I started doing it about a month ago. I should say that it 
does indeed reduce the amount of dust your sensor may be collecting. It 
did for me... And I change the lenses outdoors at least half of the time.


Boris



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "Tom C"

Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors



Hadn't thought about the point source thing.  WR surprises me sometimes. 
:)


Sometimes I amaze myself, too.




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Bruce Dayton
That is very true.  Many of my negs show very fine scratches that
look to be caused by the film processor.  They don't show up on the
prints done at the lab.  When I scan them with my Minolta Scan Dual II
I can see them.  If I scan them on the Epson 2450 - very diffused
light, they don't show up.

Prior to scanning my film, I was not as cognizant of the dust and
scratches.  If I wanted a reprint or enlargement, I just took the
negative to the lab.  But scanning at home has opened my eyes.

-- 
Best regards,
Bruce


Friday, October 28, 2005, 9:07:34 AM, you wrote:


WR> - Original Message - 
WR> From: "graywolf"
WR> Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors


>> Howcome so many folks here have/had all these troubles with dust and
>> scratches on negatives?

WR> I think the advent of point source scanners showed a lot of scratches that
WR> were invisible with diffusion printing.
WR> A lot of my negs from one lab were pretty much unusable as scanned negs, but
WR> just fine if enlarged in a darkroom.

WR> William Robb 






Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Tom C
Could also be the use of minilabs operated by untrained or uncaring 
personnel in a rush to get the stuff out the door.


Hadn't thought about the point source thing.  WR surprises me sometimes. :)

Tom C.





From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 10:07:34 -0600


- Original Message - From: "graywolf"
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors


Howcome so many folks here have/had all these troubles with dust and 
scratches on negatives?


I think the advent of point source scanners showed a lot of scratches that 
were invisible with diffusion printing.
A lot of my negs from one lab were pretty much unusable as scanned negs, 
but just fine if enlarged in a darkroom.


William Robb







Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "graywolf"

Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors


Howcome so many folks here have/had all these troubles with dust and 
scratches on negatives?


I think the advent of point source scanners showed a lot of scratches that 
were invisible with diffusion printing.
A lot of my negs from one lab were pretty much unusable as scanned negs, but 
just fine if enlarged in a darkroom.


William Robb 





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread graywolf
Howcome so many folks here have/had all these troubles with dust and 
scratches on negatives? I have only had much of a problem when I did 
something stupid, which was often enough but aviodable with a little 
effort on my part. Wear those disposable white cotton gloves, blow off 
the negative before putting it in the enlarger and after removing it, 
then put it back into the negative sleeve, and never never leave an 
unprotected negative laying around (this was always my biggest problem).


If I had to guess, it would be that people skip that step of blowing off 
the negative before putting it back into the sleeve thereby insuring 
that dust gets into the sleeve, and everytime the negative is inserted 
or removed it get more scratched.


graywolf
http://www.graywolfphoto.com
"Idiot Proof" <==> "Expert Proof"
---



Bruce Dayton wrote:


Of course, film has a huge problem with dust after the negative has
been developed.  Then every time you do something with it, you get
lots of dust and scratches.  I have spent significantly less time
dealing with dust with digital than I did with film.

 





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "David Mann" 
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors





I don't think the sensor is particularly delicate, use the same  
caution you would use when cleaning a good lens.


I thought SMC lenses (you did say "good", right?) didn't require any  
caution.


They can be damaged by cleaning if you work at it.

William Robb



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread graywolf
If you think about it, the only way you could have an air tight SLR is 
if the lens had no moving parts, or it was vacuum sealed. Unfortunately 
the lenses do have moving parts and therefore they act like a bellows 
sucking air and out of the mirror chamber. So any DSLR camera that is 
used much is going to need to have dust cleaned off the sensor now and then.


graywolf
http://www.graywolfphoto.com
"Idiot Proof" <==> "Expert Proof"
---



Markus Maurer wrote:


Hi William and Shel

Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
other brands?
For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure plate
when I change film if it is clean.
greetings
Markus

 


Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual
pixel
   




 





RE: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Don Sanderson
BluTack sounds like the handiest thing since
Sliced Bread and Duct Tape! ;-)
http://www.glubie.com/01_Pages/Blu-Tack.htm

Don

> -Original Message-
> From: Don Williams [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Friday, October 28, 2005 12:13 AM
> To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
> Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
>
>
> Although the *ist D is the first
> 'undedicated' digital camera I have it
> is not the first digital device with CCD
> sensors, or the first fussy optical
> device I've needed to clean. The work I
> do is fussy and dust blobs not only mess
> up the interpretation of
> photomicrographs they are terribly
> annoying as well.
>
> I've tried all kind of cleaning methods.
> Methanol on Ross tissue. Brushes cleaned
> and prepared in different ways. Now I
> use 'Blue Tack'. Not only on sensors,
> but on microscope objectives, camera
> lenses, eyepieces and other optical
> components. Although Blue Tack *must*
> leave something behind after it is
> peeled off, this trace amount of
> plasticizer, or solvent, or whatever, is
> invisible, undetectable and does not
> effect the optical properties in any
> way. In my laboratory, in days of yore,
> we used collodion. A solution (in
> chloroform) was poured over the surface
> of the (very expensive) lens or flat and
> when it had dried was peeled off leaving
> a pristine surface. There are very
> expensive lens cleaning solutions
> available now that are used the same
> way. However, I clean microscope
> objectives that cost thousands of
> dollars with blue tack without the
> slightest qualm.
>
> Cut a piece a little larger than the
> sensor, press it firmly to the surface
> making sure it makes contact everywhere.
> Then get hold of one end (I use forceps)
> and peel it off. The surface of the
> window will be as clean as you'll ever
> get it considering where it is inside
> the camera. I use the stuff over and
> over again keeping it in a dust free
> flat screw top container. I cleaned a
> lens five inches in diameter the other
> day. For economical reasons did it in
> sections. I used a piece of blue tack
> about an inch square and moved it about.
> To clean a very tiny lens -- 2mm or less
> in diameter (the end of a microscope
> objective) I make a sharp point and
> press in firmly again the mount
> including the metal.
>
> If this worries you, or if the 'blue
> tack' you have is suspect, get hold of a
> dusty lens that doesn't matter too much
> and try it. Do it a dozen times with the
> same piece of 'tack' and you'll see how
> effective this method can be. You can
> find Blue Tack at Glubie Glue in Indiana
> -- I think.
>
> Don
>
> P. J. Alling wrote:
> > As long as you don't have any particularly recalcitrant dust it should
> > be sufficient.
> >
> > Shel Belinkoff wrote:
> >
> >> Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
> >> sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual
> >> pixel
> >> things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for
> protection,
> >> and, therefore, of a durable nature?
> >>
> >> I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles
> >> removed.  Is
> >> that OK?  Any other suggestions?
> >>
> >>
> >> Shel
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
>
> --
> Dr E D F Williams
> ___
> http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams
> See feature: The Cement Company from Hell
> Updated: Photomicro Link -- 18 05 2005
>



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Paul Stenquist
Nothing is worse than having to clean film. My sensor gets nowhere near 
as dirty as do those negatives in the lab. I used to figure at least 
thirty minutes cleaning every scan. UGH.

Paul
On Oct 27, 2005, at 11:39 PM, William Robb wrote:



- Original Message - From: "Markus Maurer"
Subject: RE: Cleaning Sensors



Hi William and Shel

Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better 
dust
sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard 
than

other brands?
For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be 
necessary

quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film 
pressure plate

when I change film if it is clean.


Film is nice, the dust has a moving target..

William Robb





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread David Mann

On Oct 28, 2005, at 10:23 AM, William Robb wrote:

I don't think the sensor is particularly delicate, use the same  
caustion you would use when cleaning a good lens.


I thought SMC lenses (you did say "good", right?) didn't require any  
caution.


- Dave



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-28 Thread Leon Altoff

Shel,

There are already lots of replies, but I'll add mine without looking at 
them so I'm not influenced - Sensor cleaning is an emotive issue.  I 
change lenses too often in places I shouldn't.


The cover over the sensor is a filter.  Most digitals have them though I 
think the Kodak 14 megapixels don't.


The worst my sensor has ever been was caused by a blower brush.  It was 
brand new and full of dust.  Blowers pull in the air where you are, if 
there is dust in it it will be propelled towards your sensor at high 
speed.  I don't use them.


The local Pentax importers use dry nitrogen to clean the sensors.  This 
is I think 99.9% pure nitrogen so when it comes out under pressure there 
is no water vapour to freeze and damage the filter over the sensor.


A dry nitrogen setup will cost you about AU$200 plus gas.  I've 
considered it but haven't gotten around to it.


Canned air is commonly used but you must be very careful not to hold the 
can so that the propellant escapes as this is hard to clean off and will 
take a lot of effort and if it gets under the filter you are in trouble. 
  This goes for dust as well.  It is possible to spray around enough 
air to get the dust lodged between the filter and the sensor.  I've 
never seen it but I'm told it's possible.  I use compressed CO2 which 
does not have a propellant but can cause water vapour to form if you are 
not careful - I haven't had it freeze yet.


Sensor swabs seem like a good idea but they supposedly have one small 
point of contact and can miss the dust you want to get rid of completely.


I have a sensor swipe (see http://www.pbase.com/image/15473243 )  It 
does a good job if you can get the Pec Pad wrapped around it correctly. 
 I now use this for the stubborn dust only.  It has only failed on one 
spec of dust on my second istD body.  It's off to C R Kennedy soon for a 
professional job.  It has gotten rid of all sorts of crud that has 
gotten on to my sensor.


For light, non-adhesive dust I have a visible dust sensor brush from 
http://www.visibledust.com  Both the full size and light brushes do a 
wonderful job.  For a regular clean of light dust they are great.  there 
are a few other options available now - including one from Copper Hill 
who provide the sensor swipe.


That's about it for my experience (and Journey) in cleaning sensors. 
Hope it is of some use to you.


 Leon

http://www.bluering.org.au
http://www.bluering.org.au/leon


Shel Belinkoff wrote:

Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed.  Is
that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel 








Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi


On Oct 27, 2005, at 9:35 PM, William Robb wrote:

That reminds me.  It's probably about time to clean the sensor  
again.  I'm guessing I end up cleaning it 4 - 6 times a year.  If  
I see the dust in an image, it gets cleaned right away.  If I'm  
making a special effort to get some shots, driving for 2 hours,  
etc., it gets cleaned as a matter of preventive maintenance.


It seems more important if the lens is very long, or else if I am  
shooting macro.


It's MOST important if you tend to work at small lens openings a lot.  
I tend to work between wide open and f/8 most of the time with my  
usual range of focal lengths.


Godfrey



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi
The best technology in this domain is in the Olympus E system bodies.  
They have a sensor cleaning cycle built in every time you turn the  
camera on or change a lens.


But it's not a big problem with the Pentax. I've cleaned one of my DS  
bodies a total of twice, the other never. And I'm not exactly "clean  
room" careful with changing lenses. ;-)


Godfrey


On Oct 27, 2005, at 7:55 PM, Markus Maurer wrote:


Hi William and Shel

Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there  
better dust
sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this  
regard than

other brands?
For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be  
necessary

quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film  
pressure plate

when I change film if it is clean.
greetings
Markus





Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and  
saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the  
actual

pixel











Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Don Williams
Although the *ist D is the first 
'undedicated' digital camera I have it 
is not the first digital device with CCD 
sensors, or the first fussy optical 
device I've needed to clean. The work I 
do is fussy and dust blobs not only mess 
up the interpretation of 
photomicrographs they are terribly 
annoying as well.


I've tried all kind of cleaning methods. 
Methanol on Ross tissue. Brushes cleaned 
and prepared in different ways. Now I 
use 'Blue Tack'. Not only on sensors, 
but on microscope objectives, camera 
lenses, eyepieces and other optical 
components. Although Blue Tack *must* 
leave something behind after it is 
peeled off, this trace amount of 
plasticizer, or solvent, or whatever, is 
invisible, undetectable and does not 
effect the optical properties in any 
way. In my laboratory, in days of yore, 
we used collodion. A solution (in 
chloroform) was poured over the surface 
of the (very expensive) lens or flat and 
when it had dried was peeled off leaving 
a pristine surface. There are very 
expensive lens cleaning solutions 
available now that are used the same 
way. However, I clean microscope 
objectives that cost thousands of 
dollars with blue tack without the 
slightest qualm.


Cut a piece a little larger than the 
sensor, press it firmly to the surface 
making sure it makes contact everywhere. 
Then get hold of one end (I use forceps) 
and peel it off. The surface of the 
window will be as clean as you'll ever 
get it considering where it is inside 
the camera. I use the stuff over and 
over again keeping it in a dust free 
flat screw top container. I cleaned a 
lens five inches in diameter the other 
day. For economical reasons did it in 
sections. I used a piece of blue tack 
about an inch square and moved it about. 
To clean a very tiny lens -- 2mm or less 
in diameter (the end of a microscope 
objective) I make a sharp point and 
press in firmly again the mount 
including the metal.


If this worries you, or if the 'blue 
tack' you have is suspect, get hold of a 
dusty lens that doesn't matter too much 
and try it. Do it a dozen times with the 
same piece of 'tack' and you'll see how 
effective this method can be. You can 
find Blue Tack at Glubie Glue in Indiana 
-- I think.


Don

P. J. Alling wrote:
As long as you don't have any particularly recalcitrant dust it should 
be sufficient.


Shel Belinkoff wrote:


Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual 
pixel

things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles 
removed.  Is

that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel

 






--
Dr E D F Williams
___
http://personal.inet.fi/cool/don.williams
See feature: The Cement Company from Hell
Updated: Photomicro Link -- 18 05 2005



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Rob Studdert
On 27 Oct 2005 at 22:49, Tom C wrote:

> Across the board, I see the dust most often in wide expanses of the 
> composition that very little in tone and color... sky... clouds... usually.

Generally you need an expanse of some area colour to see particles on the 
sensor but in all cases you'll find that anything there becomes more prevalent 
as the aperture is closed down. If you want a real shock shoot an evenly 
illuminated surface at various apertures then use the PS autolevels function to 
stretch the histogram.


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread P. J. Alling
Dust usually gets into the mirror box when you change the lens, from 
there it finds it's way to the sensor when an exposure its made.  The 
camera is only as well sealed as the lens, (no matter who makes the 
camera). 


Markus Maurer wrote:


Hi William and Shel

Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
other brands?
For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure plate
when I change film if it is clean.
greetings
Markus

 


Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual
pixel
   




 




--
When you're worried or in doubt, 
	Run in circles, (scream and shout).




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Shel Belinkoff

Thanks for all the suggestions ... everyone's input is appreciated.

Shel




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Tom C
Across the board, I see the dust most often in wide expanses of the 
composition that very little in tone and color... sky... clouds... usually.


Tom C.





From: "William Robb" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: 
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2005 22:35:05 -0600


- Original Message - From: "Tom C"
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors


That reminds me.  It's probably about time to clean the sensor again.  I'm 
guessing I end up cleaning it 4 - 6 times a year.  If I see the dust in an 
image, it gets cleaned right away.  If I'm making a special effort to get 
some shots, driving for 2 hours, etc., it gets cleaned as a matter of 
preventive maintenance.


It seems more important if the lens is very long, or else if I am shooting 
macro.


William Robb







RE: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Shel Belinkoff
Hi Markus ...

Dust is an issue with film.  I'd blow my camera bodies out before each day
of shooting, and film easily picks up dust (and scratches).  Don't know if
there are better sealed bodies, but if you're changing lenses, there's no
seal anyway.  I've had the DS about a month or six weeks, and frequently
change lenses, so it's no surprise to me that there's a speck or two of
dust that needs to be removed.

Shel 


> [Original Message]
> From: Markus Maurer 

> Hi William and Shel
>
> Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
> sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
> other brands?
> For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
> quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
> I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure
plate
> when I change film if it is clean.




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Shel Belinkoff
Never heard of a hurricane blower.  Is that a brand name or some specific
type of blower?

Shel 
"Am I paranoid or perceptive?" 


> [Original Message]
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>


> You have  probaly gotten the answers you need.However.
>
> A good hurricane blower has kept dust from all my digital sensors.




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Shel Belinkoff
Yes ... two nice big blobs ... Tks for the suggestions.  Got quite a few to
consider ;-))

Shel 


> [Original Message]
> From: Godfrey DiGiorgi 

> First, why? Have you seen evidence of dust in your photographs?




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "Tom C"

Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors


That reminds me.  It's probably about time to clean the sensor again.  I'm 
guessing I end up cleaning it 4 - 6 times a year.  If I see the dust in an 
image, it gets cleaned right away.  If I'm making a special effort to get 
some shots, driving for 2 hours, etc., it gets cleaned as a matter of 
preventive maintenance.


It seems more important if the lens is very long, or else if I am shooting 
macro.


William Robb 





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Tom C
That reminds me.  It's probably about time to clean the sensor again.  I'm 
guessing I end up cleaning it 4 - 6 times a year.  If I see the dust in an 
image, it gets cleaned right away.  If I'm making a special effort to get 
some shots, driving for 2 hours, etc., it gets cleaned as a matter of 
preventive maintenance.


Tom C.





From: "Rob Studdert" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Reply-To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
Date: Fri, 28 Oct 2005 14:15:30 +1000

On 27 Oct 2005 at 22:04, William Robb wrote:

>
> - Original Message -----
> From: "Bruce Dayton"
> Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
>
>
> > Of course, film has a huge problem with dust after the negative has
> > been developed.  Then every time you do something with it, you get
> > lots of dust and scratches.  I have spent significantly less time
> > dealing with dust with digital than I did with film.
>
> Digital's making you lazy

Ahh, that's what it's coming down to, one must suffer for ones art ;-)


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998






Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread P. J. Alling
As long as you don't have any particularly recalcitrant dust it should 
be sufficient.


Shel Belinkoff wrote:


Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed.  Is
that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel 



 




--
When you're worried or in doubt, 
	Run in circles, (scream and shout).




Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Rob Studdert
On 27 Oct 2005 at 22:04, William Robb wrote:

> 
> - Original Message - 
> From: "Bruce Dayton"
> Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
> 
> 
> > Of course, film has a huge problem with dust after the negative has
> > been developed.  Then every time you do something with it, you get
> > lots of dust and scratches.  I have spent significantly less time
> > dealing with dust with digital than I did with film.
> 
> Digital's making you lazy

Ahh, that's what it's coming down to, one must suffer for ones art ;-)


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "Bruce Dayton"

Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors



Of course, film has a huge problem with dust after the negative has
been developed.  Then every time you do something with it, you get
lots of dust and scratches.  I have spent significantly less time
dealing with dust with digital than I did with film.


Digital's making you lazy
WW



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Bruce Dayton
Of course, film has a huge problem with dust after the negative has
been developed.  Then every time you do something with it, you get
lots of dust and scratches.  I have spent significantly less time
dealing with dust with digital than I did with film.

-- 
Best regards,
Bruce


Thursday, October 27, 2005, 8:39:51 PM, you wrote:


WR> - Original Message - 
WR> From: "Markus Maurer"
WR> Subject: RE: Cleaning Sensors


>> Hi William and Shel
>>
>> Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
>> sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
>> other brands?
>> For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
>> quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
>> I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure
>> plate
>> when I change film if it is clean.

WR> Film is nice, the dust has a moving target..

WR> William Robb 






Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "Markus Maurer"

Subject: RE: Cleaning Sensors



Hi William and Shel

Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
other brands?
For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure 
plate

when I change film if it is clean.


Film is nice, the dust has a moving target..

William Robb 





RE: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Rob Studdert
On 28 Oct 2005 at 4:55, Markus Maurer wrote:

> Hi William and Shel
> 
> Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
> sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
> other brands?
> For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
> quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
> I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure plate
> when I change film if it is clean. greetings Markus

The fundamental difference between a traditional SLR and a DSLR WRT dust 
collection is that DSLRs have a fixed sensing element, the film surface 
obviously moves frame to frame so is generally far less of a problem. I'm sure 
that the same amount of dust gets sucked in due to lens focus/zoom movements 
and enters the mirror box whilst lenses are being changed but yes it does pose 
more of a problem for DSLRs. Systems have been developed to attempt to counter 
the problem but basically a good puff of clean air will solve most DSLR dust 
problems.


Rob Studdert
HURSTVILLE AUSTRALIA
Tel +61-2-9554-4110
UTC(GMT)  +10 Hours
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://members.ozemail.com.au/~distudio/publications/
Pentax user since 1986, PDMLer since 1998



RE: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Markus Maurer
Hi William and Shel

Does every digital SLR need that sensor cleaning or are there better dust
sealed bodies and are the Pentax ones better or worse in this regard than
other brands?
For me as a film user, that "cleaning sensor thing" seems to be necessary
quite often, Shel's camera is nearly new.
I seldom clean my film bodies, I just have a look at the film pressure plate
when I change film if it is clean.
greetings
Markus

>>
>>> Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
>>> sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual
>>> pixel
>>



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread brooksdj
Shel

You have  probaly gotten the answers you need.However.

A good hurricane blower has kept dust from all my digital sensors.

Don't use anything with bristtles. I dont care what people say, they are not 
ment for
sensor cleaning.

Only once did i have to send in a digi.

The guy i bought my D1 mouth blew dust of and left spittle. Nikon took care oF 
that for
$90.00 cANADIAN 

Dave 

> Time to clean the sensor in the DS 
... locked up the mirror and saw the
> sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual pixel
> things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
> and, therefore, of a durable nature?
> 
> I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed.  Is
> that OK?  Any other suggestions?
> 
> 
> Shel 
> 






Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Godfrey DiGiorgi

First, why? Have you seen evidence of dust in your photographs?

I use a Giottos Rocket hand-bulb blower to clean dust off. It is  
always kept wrapped up to prevent dust from getting in it. In the  
event that that isn't sufficient, I use a Visible Dust Sensor  
Brush ... Yeah, if you're really eager, you can find a cosmetics  
brush that is of the same composition and save a bunch of money, but  
I'm lazy and I had the money at the time. Beyond that I use Pec pads  
and Eclipse solution.


The sensor has a cover on it. It's not particularly delicate, but it  
IS delicate. You should never put pressure on it, or get goo on it.  
That's why I don't trust canned air.


Godfrey


On Oct 27, 2005, at 2:16 PM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:

Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw  
the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the  
actual pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for  
protection,

and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles  
removed.  Is

that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel






RE: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Don Sanderson
I agree with both the "good lens" analogy and canned air.
I do take two extra precautions.
I always have 2-4 cans of air around, when I use one on
mirrors, or the sensor, I pick one that is 1/2 - 2/3 empty.
A little less pressure, and a lot less chance of spraying
any liquid.
I have seen the liquid spray cause a colored film on
mirrors that was very difficult to remove.
I wouldn't want this to happen to the D sensor.
Also, when I spray a camera or lens I start the air flow,
then move the camera or lens in front of it. I try never
to move the can of air while spraying.

Don

> -Original Message-
> From: William Robb [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, October 27, 2005 4:23 PM
> To: pentax-discuss@pdml.net
> Subject: Re: Cleaning Sensors
>
>
>
> - Original Message -
> From: "Shel Belinkoff"
> Subject: Cleaning Sensors
>
>
> > Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
> > sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual
> > pixel
> > things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for
> protection,
> > and, therefore, of a durable nature?
> >
> > I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed.
> > Is
> > that OK?  Any other suggestions?
>
> I don't think the sensor is particularly delicate, use the same
> caustion you
> would use when cleaning a good lens.
> Blower brushes may not be the best choice, as they tend to have
> dust sucked
> inside them.
> I use canned air on mine, and haven't had any problems. Make sure
> you don't
> tip the can, and make a couple of "trial squirts" to make sure it isn't
> shooting vapour.
> I plan on picking up a cleaning brush at some point, on the
> offchance I get
> something stuck to the sensor that won't blow off, but so far, I am
> resisting the purchase of one of the specialty brushes. I am of
> the opinion
> that a good quality nylon bristle make-up brush is going to be
> much the same
> thing.
> As you can probably tell, I am pretty casual about sensor cleaning..
>
> William Robb
>
>
>



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Steve Jolly

Shel Belinkoff wrote:

Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
and, therefore, of a durable nature?


The filter in front of the sensor is SMC, if I recall correctly, so it 
should be pretty tough.  Most people, sensibly, clean it with extreme 
caution, however!



I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed.  Is
that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Sounds fine to me... :-)

S



Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Gonz
That product is mentioned in the article I mentioned.  The article is 
about duplicating it at a fraction of the cost.


rg


Jim Colwell wrote:
see www.visibledust.com 








Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Paul Stenquist
I use a sterile ear syringe that I purchased at a pharmacy. I keep it 
in a box when not in use, so it is dust free. It blows hard enough to 
remove dust specs without ever touching the sensor.

Paul
On Oct 27, 2005, at 5:16 PM, Shel Belinkoff wrote:


Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual 
pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for 
protection,

and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles 
removed.  Is

that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Jim Colwell
see www.visibledust.com 





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread Gonz

http://tinyurl.com/4ugeb

rg


Shel Belinkoff wrote:

Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual pixel
things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed.  Is
that OK?  Any other suggestions?


Shel 





Re: Cleaning Sensors

2005-10-27 Thread William Robb


- Original Message - 
From: "Shel Belinkoff"

Subject: Cleaning Sensors



Time to clean the sensor in the DS ... locked up the mirror and saw the
sensor thingy.  It looks like there's a plastic layer over the actual 
pixel

things.  Correct?  Is that particularly delicate or is it for protection,
and, therefore, of a durable nature?

I was thinking of using a blower brush with the brush bristles removed. 
Is

that OK?  Any other suggestions?


I don't think the sensor is particularly delicate, use the same caustion you 
would use when cleaning a good lens.
Blower brushes may not be the best choice, as they tend to have dust sucked 
inside them.
I use canned air on mine, and haven't had any problems. Make sure you don't 
tip the can, and make a couple of "trial squirts" to make sure it isn't 
shooting vapour.
I plan on picking up a cleaning brush at some point, on the offchance I get 
something stuck to the sensor that won't blow off, but so far, I am 
resisting the purchase of one of the specialty brushes. I am of the opinion 
that a good quality nylon bristle make-up brush is going to be much the same 
thing.

As you can probably tell, I am pretty casual about sensor cleaning..

William Robb