RE: [Repeater-Builder] MOVs for power supply primary
I use Tripplite Isobar Ultra. Usually ends up with the power switch rocker blown across the room when hit hard but equipment is well protected. Wa9ne -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Chuck Kelsey Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2010 3:48 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] MOVs for power supply primary OK, I should have been more specific. What would be a reasonable unit for a repeater site that may have only a couple thousand dollars worth of equipment inside? Chuck WB2EDV No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.829 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2923 - Release Date: 06/08/10 01:35:00
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Master Exec 50W Low Band 42-50 Splitt PA needed
Hi Terry, That is a high split. I will email you direct. Wayne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Terry" wrote: > > Wayne, > > I got a chance to see what I had. I have a Mastr Exec II low band mobile, > but with the 100W PA. The number on the radio is ST74AAN33AH. I got this > several years ago but have never tested it. > > Terry, KM5UQ > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Master Exec 50W Low Band 42-50 Splitt PA needed
Sorry Eric, I don't really know the details. This was a conversion by MCC out of Florida. It was a 42-50 split. I think the power was set to about 30W. My experience has all been with the 100W PA's. It may be repairable but I am still looking for a schematic. I think I have one some where. Any suggestions as to what to look for other than the RF transistors? Wayne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon" wrote: > > Wayne, > > Please share with the Group the details of the failure. Was the PA properly > modified to operate efficiently at 6m, or was it a "stock" 42-50 split PA? > If not, at what power level was it being used? If the PA was unmodified and > being operated well outside of its intended band, I guess the "tried and > true" description means that it worked well- for a while- despite being > misapplied! > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Master Exec 50W Low Band 42-50 Splitt PA needed
Sorta hard to shove one in the case. Thanks for the reply. Wayne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "dgrapach" wrote: > > > Try a micor amp > Ebay 220614543178 220611329293 > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" wrote: > > > > After years of operation our tried and true 6M repeater died. This > > repeater, in Arkansas, is located on the highest point between the Rocky > > Mountains and the Smokey Mountains and provided excellent coverage. > > We need a GE Master Exec. II Low Band 50 watt 42-50 split PA. The > > combination number on the front of the radio follows. The ? means it does > > not matter. > > RT64???33?? > > > > We only need the PA. If any one has one of these they want to part with let > > me know the details. Please reply by post to "reply to sender" or wa5luy at > > cablelynx dot com. > > > > Wayne, WA5LUY > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Master Exec 50W Low Band 42-50 Splitt PA needed
Thanks for checking. Wayne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "La Rue Communications" wrote: > > I will check our stash for you, I THINK we may have one. > > John Hymes > La Rue Communications > 10 S. Aurora Street > Stockton, CA 95202 > http://tinyurl.com/2dtngmn > - Original Message - > From: dgrapach > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 8:12 AM > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Master Exec 50W Low Band 42-50 Splitt PA > needed > > > > > Try a micor amp > Ebay 220614543178 220611329293 > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" wrote: > > > > After years of operation our tried and true 6M repeater died. This > repeater, in Arkansas, is located on the highest point between the Rocky > Mountains and the Smokey Mountains and provided excellent coverage. > > We need a GE Master Exec. II Low Band 50 watt 42-50 split PA. The > combination number on the front of the radio follows. The ? means it does not > matter. > > RT64???33?? > > > > We only need the PA. If any one has one of these they want to part with > let me know the details. Please reply by post to "reply to sender" or wa5luy > at cablelynx dot com. > > > > Wayne, WA5LUY > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: GE Master Exec 50W Low Band 42-50 Splitt PA needed
Wonderful! If it's that rare you might want to keep it. Just kidding. Thanks for the reply 73 --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Tim wrote: > > Marketing at it's best: > > KEEP IN MIND THAT THERE ARE NO MORE OF THESE AVAILABLE ANYWHERE IN THE > WORLD! > > I HAVE THE ONLY ONE LEFT! > > :-) > > > On 6/4/2010 8:12 AM, dgrapach wrote: > > 220614543178 220611329293 >
[Repeater-Builder] GE Master Exec 50W Low Band 42-50 Splitt PA needed
After years of operation our tried and true 6M repeater died. This repeater, in Arkansas, is located on the highest point between the Rocky Mountains and the Smokey Mountains and provided excellent coverage. We need a GE Master Exec. II Low Band 50 watt 42-50 split PA. The combination number on the front of the radio follows. The ? means it does not matter. RT64???33?? We only need the PA. If any one has one of these they want to part with let me know the details. Please reply by post to "reply to sender" or wa5luy at cablelynx dot com. Wayne, WA5LUY
RE: [Repeater-Builder] Fwd: DB4379UHF combiner
If he can disconnect the output of the cans from the antenna adaptor then he can split it into two separate 2 channel units. He might have to remount two of the cans in a separate chassis to eliminate any mutual coupling as necessary. Wayne Cornick IE Communications Inc. 21 West Front Street P.O. Box 67 Trenton, IL. 62293 618.224.7138 Phone 618.224.9006 FAX wa...@iecomm.com -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Ted Leonard Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 1:33 PM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Fwd: DB4379UHF combiner To the group, I received the attached e-mail from a friend in the two way business. Does anyone know if his goal can be met as he describes below? Also could someone point me to the tuning instructions for this beast. Thank you, Ted W3VG Original Message Subject: DB4379UHF combiner Date: Thu, 20 May 2010 11:16:13 -0400 From: Robert Harvey <mailto:freedom...@windstream.net> To: Ted Leonard <mailto:n2...@verizon.net> Ted, you're the filter guy. I have a DB products DB4379-4404B 4 channel UHF combiner. You did a little bit of tuning on it once in the shop. Do you know, or can you find out, if it can be turned into two, 2 channel combiners? I want to combine 461.625, 461.650, 463.625 & 463.650 but the combiner is speced at 50KHz spacing. There are two splits of only 25KHz on the frequencies I need to work with. Combining 461.625 and 463.625 on one combiner and antenna and combine 461.650 and 463.650 on another combiner and antenna would save me antennas and feedline and lots of money if I can modify the combiner I own. Bob Robert D. Harvey Freedom Communications, Inc aka: RDH / TransCom voice (716) 664-2659 fax (716) 483-5968 email freedom...@windstre <mailto:freedom...@windstream.net> am.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.819 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2899 - Release Date: 05/27/10 01:25:00
[Repeater-Builder] Re: New Micor files on repeater-builder.com
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Morris WA6ILQ wrote: >> I've also been promised a DVD with a complete 1st-to-last issue > of 73 magazine, and another of Ham Radio (i.e. hr magazine). > No, I'm not going to put them up for download, but there are a few issues > from each that are worth posting once repeater-builder gets copyright > permission. Mike, Since you brought up posting old publications I was wondering if anyone had any copies of The Cronicals of 76. As I recall they were done by some early repeater builders in the 60's in 6 land. They usually had technical and sometimes funny articles. Wayne, WA5LUY
Re: Solved: [Repeater-Builder] Problems reaching the RB website
Sorry, I have been very tired due to pain, so inadvertently added the extra letter... On Fri, Apr 9, 2010 at 9:25 AM, kd6aaj wrote: > > > AHA! I figured out your problem. > > Drop the "s". It's supposed to be "repeater-builder" not > "repeater-builders" > > > --- On *Thu, 4/8/10, John * wrote: > > > From: John > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Problems reaching the RB website > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Date: Thursday, April 8, 2010, 1:54 PM > > > > Repeater-Builder site works fine under Netscape 7.0, no problems > > John > > Wayne Leake wrote: > > I tried accessing http://repeater-builders.com/ and > http://www.repeater-bulders.com/ with the latest IE under win XP, and had > no problem > Firefox and K-Melon both take me to a web page that suggests the > URL may be for sale. > I had a problem, for a very short time, with one hoster, that took a web > site to a different place when not using the www. a bit of checking and the > host site too care of that problem. > Seems like maybe someone is trying to hijack the url, but why it only > affects some browsers is a mystery indeed. Does need to be looked into... > > Wayne WA2YNE > http://www.desert-rat.com > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] MCS 2000 Information needed
I have a MCS 2000 Model MO1HX+437W. Is a 100 watt high band unit with remote control head. I am looking for the pin out configuration on the 25 pin DB connector on the bottom of the radio. I have searched RB but not found this information. Help Appreciated Wayne, WA5LUY
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Problems reaching the RB website
I tried accessing http://repeater-builders.com/ and http://www.repeater-bulders.com/ with the latest IE under win XP, and had no problem Firefox and K-Melon both take me to a web page that suggests the URL may be for sale. I had a problem, for a very short time, with one hoster, that took a web site to a different place when not using the www. a bit of checking and the host site too care of that problem. Seems like maybe someone is trying to hijack the url, but why it only affects some browsers is a mystery indeed. Does need to be looked into... Wayne WA2YNE http://www.desert-rat.com
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Are people on ebay nuts?
I see assorted items for various prices on Ebay. Some worthwhile, some not, like the 800 Mhz Exec II that the seller says jhe was told can be conveted to 400 Mhz. 900 Maybe, but not 400 without swapping parts. Sellers giving part numbers as model numbers, like a Delta S (I think it is an S) and the picure that would show the actual model number/combo, is glared out so one cannot see. Some sellers are ignorant, and others simply imply with no guarantee... Maybe I should strip my high band Mastr II's and sell parts, most are working on original frequencies, and only keep the UHF stufff for my repeater. I even have, somewhere, a working Exec II 50 watt or so PA, tested using an HT as the driver. I'll go one better, we have a high band Motorola base, tubes, that someone might like, but shipping would be a killer. Working unknown. Were also, as I recall, a number of prog line mobiles, some may still work. Shipping is often the killer on some items. And the buyer should double check with the seller for information to clear up what the item may actually be. Not a motorola person, so not sure just what the 300 really is... Wayne WA2YNE On Sat, Mar 27, 2010 at 9:59 AM, Eric Lemmon wrote: > > > Not really. The vendor of the GR300 repeater is as sane as you and me, and > he is really smart. He knows that some nut out in la-la land will gladly > pay that amount and more for the clunker. Notice that programming and > shipping are not included in the Buy It Now price. I have no doubt that if > the seller included the phrase "original and very rare" in the description, > he could ask and get $2,000 for it! > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > > > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com] > On Behalf Of kc7stw > Sent: Friday, March 26, 2010 11:43 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Are people on ebay nuts? > > This has to be a joke right? > > Look at item number, 130377678510 > > $1,320 are they for real? I really love the missing covers, the bent case > and the rust. Adds real class. > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Low Band DB-212 antenna questions.
Has anyone had any experience with DB-212 low band type loop antennas mounted back to back at the same elevation on a mast or tower? What type of pattern did they have? How did they compare with a ground plane? Would it be better to use one loop instead of two at the same elevation? If the loops can be separated what is the minimum for 52MHz? Wayne, WA5LUY
[Repeater-Builder] Re: RCA service manuals, series 700 and series 1000, 25 - 50 MHz, 150 MHz.
--- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Matt Harker wrote: > > Hi everybody, > > I am looking for any old RCA service manuals for the Series 700 and Series > 1000 radios whose operating range was as follows: > > 25 - 30 MHz > 30 - 36 MHz > 36 - 42 MHz > 42 - 50 MHz Hello Matt Be careful how you tune up the PA in the 700. Here is a fumy story on myself. I tuned up a 700 for 52.525 MHz and the radio put out the rated power with my Bird into a good dummy load. When I connected it to my side tower mounted ground plane, cut for 6 meters, the SWR was terrible. I spent a couple of days checking the antenna and feed line and every thing seemed to be OK. I even made several contacts on 6 meters and every one said the radio sounded good. Later I checked the 700 with a spectrum analyzer and found half the power was going out around 42 MHz! Properly retuning the PA fixed the high SWR and may have saved me an audience with the FCC Wayne, WA5LUY.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Information needed on Norcomm NC 401 ctcs encoder-decoder
Thanks for all the replies. I foumd the information and it is a DTMF decoder. If anyone has a need for a NC 401 I would like to trade it for a Comm Spec TS 32. Wayne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "hybridfan" wrote: > > I bought an NC 401 from them last year. You can find their manuals on the > website. If you need assistance, the tech guy is very helpful. > > Ken > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Steve Passmore wrote: > > > > Norcomm's web site is http://www.norcommcorp.com > > > > As far as I can tell they are still independently owned. > > > > Steve > > > > > > On 1/24/2010 15:21, Wayne wrote: > > > From the web sight it looks like Norcomm turned in to Selectone which > > > turned into Comm. Spec. This product is not listed on their sight. > > > > > > If anyone has information on this encoder- decoder I would appreciate > > > hearing from you. The unit looks similiar to the Comm. Spec. TS-64 but > > > the pin out is deferent. > > > > > > Wayne, WA5LUY > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Information needed on Norcomm NC 401 ctcs encoder-decoder
>From the web sight it looks like Norcomm turned in to Selectone which turned >into Comm. Spec. This product is not listed on their sight. If anyone has information on this encoder- decoder I would appreciate hearing from you. The unit looks similiar to the Comm. Spec. TS-64 but the pin out is deferent. Wayne, WA5LUY
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola MSR 2000 parts needed.
Check your email. I sent you a reply direct. 73 Wayne, wa5luy --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "kc7stw" wrote: > > Hello all in the group. > > I am looking to build as close to a factory MSR 2000 repeater station as I > can. I am looking for some cards. > > 1) Squelch gate, > 1) CW IDer card. (just want it for the card and black face) > > any other cards that can be used for the fun of it. PL or DPL cards for TX > and RX of PL/DPL or reeds 141.3 or ??? > > I have items for the MSR 2000 that I will trade, or cash. > > 1) 100 watt full duty PA VHF > 1) RX board with element VHF > 1) TX board with element > 2) Intercom cards > 2) Station control > 2) R1 Audio > 2) Line driver > 1) repeater station with out power supply. (DC only version) in the 19inch > case. > > Thanks for any help. Just a side project of mine. > Contact off list at kc7...@... > -Jason >
RE: [Repeater-Builder] motorola cdm 750
Try turning down or off the individual denounce times per pin within the accessory settings. Sounds like their set to around a second or so. Wa9ne -Original Message- From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of andy Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 6:40 AM To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com Subject: [Repeater-Builder] motorola cdm 750 can anyoone help> i just programmed 2 motorola cdm 750 to be used as a repeater but for some reason it takes 2 seconds for it to transmit. is there something im doing with the programming?1 radio rx the other tx but it takes 2 seconds for it to transmit by the time the signal gets to the external amplifier its another second added so its 3 seconds in total. i know its the radios because when i try it with 2 gm radios it tx almost immediatly.
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Weird Interference between APRS and 2-M repeater help needed
We had a similar problem using a Kenwood radio with switching or pin diodes that was on APRS. The repeater and the APRS radio were on DB224's very close to each other. The repeater has 6 cans and the aprs had 1 band pass can. Neither system interfered with the other but we soon discovered we were interfering with every one else. We were able to separate the antennas by 100 feet or more which solved the problem. We now run our packet system, which is similar to aprs, on the old antenna next to the repeater. We are using a Mitrex for the packet which does not have pin diodes. We have no problems. I hope this information helps you for your situation. 73 Wayne, WA5LUY --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Jeff DePolo" wrote: > > > > The repeater might be getting into the PA stage of the APRS > > radio. Try > > powering off the APRS radio during the time that you hear the weird > > noise. I would bet that the noise goes away as soon as the APRS radio > > in powered off. > > What kind of radio is being used for APRS? If it's something like a > ham-grade transceiver, it's almost guaranteed to have a PIN diode for T/R > switching. When crunched by the high-level RF from the repeater > transmitter, it's probably making a racket... > > As others have said, you simply don't have the filtering you need to make > this work right. Isolators on both transmitters would be a good start given > the tight coupling between antennas; to add an isolator to the APRS radio > may mean having to switch to another radio (perhaps a better one) that has a > real T/R relay or other means for getting the isolator into the transmit RF > path. > > Then start looking at what it's going to take in terms of filtering to get > the carrier and noise rejection required, which will vary depending on what > you're using for radios, how much isolation you have between antennas > (should be *measured*, not guessed at), etc. > > Why are the two antennas in the same plane to start with? Can't they be > relocated to get some vertical separation? > > --- Jeff WN3A >
[Repeater-Builder] MSR2000 TRN9689 R1 Audio board schematic needed......
I am in need of the schematic for the TRN 9689 R1 Audio volume and squelch board. Anyone that has a scanned or PDF file, I would appreciate a copy. I have checked the RB web sight and not found it. Thank You Wayne, WA5LUY
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mitrek/MSR200 preamp needed
For anyone that wants to do this I just finished hooking a non factory preamp to the pins where the factory unit plugged in and it did work. I used a plug from the junk box and kept the leads as short as possible with no connectors to eliminate loss. 73 and thanks for all the replies Wayne, WA5LUY --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" wrote: > > Hello Joe and every one else. > In case we can't find the factory version has anyone else tried hooking a > preamp to the pins where the factory version plugs in? That would put some > filter ahead of the preamp. > > Wayne, WA5LUY > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "tahrens301" wrote: > > > > Hi Joe, > > > > I'm looking for one as well, if your junk box is that deep! > > (VHF MSR2000) > > > > Thanks, > > > > Tim W5FN > > > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "burkleo" wrote: > > > > > > Wayne, > > > I have had much better luck with Angle Linear preamps than the > > > Mitrek/MSR2000 units. > > > > > > Chip does offer a Amateur Discount also. > > > > > > If you absolutely have to have a factory preamp, I will look through my > > > MSR2000/Mitrek VHF units and see if I have one. > > > > > > Joe - WA7JAW > > > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" wrote: > > > > > > > > I am in need of a HLD4051A or HLD4052A receiver preamp out of a Mitrek > > > > or MSR2000. This is the plug in preamp that goes in the helical > > > > resonator. This is for vhf 146.xx. If anyone has one or two let me know > > > > how much you want. > > > > > > > > Thanks > > > > Wayne > > > > > > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mitrek/MSR200 preamp needed
Hello Joe and every one else. In case we can't find the factory version has anyone else tried hooking a preamp to the pins where the factory version plugs in? That would put some filter ahead of the preamp. Wayne, WA5LUY --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "tahrens301" wrote: > > Hi Joe, > > I'm looking for one as well, if your junk box is that deep! > (VHF MSR2000) > > Thanks, > > Tim W5FN > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "burkleoj" wrote: > > > > Wayne, > > I have had much better luck with Angle Linear preamps than the > > Mitrek/MSR2000 units. > > > > Chip does offer a Amateur Discount also. > > > > If you absolutely have to have a factory preamp, I will look through my > > MSR2000/Mitrek VHF units and see if I have one. > > > > Joe - WA7JAW > > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" wrote: > > > > > > I am in need of a HLD4051A or HLD4052A receiver preamp out of a Mitrek or > > > MSR2000. This is the plug in preamp that goes in the helical resonator. > > > This is for vhf 146.xx. If anyone has one or two let me know how much you > > > want. > > > > > > Thanks > > > Wayne > > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Mitrek/MSR200 preamp needed
Joe, I have looked at his product and I am shure it's top quality but a little pricy for our budget. I have one MSR2000 with the factory preamp and it works well. I am hoping someone will see my post that has some spare that we could purchase. I am sure someone out there has a pile of old Mitrek moble units with the preamps just sitting around collecting dust they could turn into a little cash before putting them in a dumpster. Thanks for the post. 73 Wayne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "burkleoj" wrote: > > Wayne, > I have had much better luck with Angle Linear preamps than the Mitrek/MSR2000 > units. > > Chip does offer a Amateur Discount also. > > If you absolutely have to have a factory preamp, I will look through my > MSR2000/Mitrek VHF units and see if I have one. > > Joe - WA7JAW > > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Wayne" wrote: > > > > I am in need of a HLD4051A or HLD4052A receiver preamp out of a Mitrek or > > MSR2000. This is the plug in preamp that goes in the helical resonator. > > This is for vhf 146.xx. If anyone has one or two let me know how much you > > want. > > > > Thanks > > Wayne > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Mitrek/MSR200 preamp needed
I am in need of a HLD4051A or HLD4052A receiver preamp out of a Mitrek or MSR2000. This is the plug in preamp that goes in the helical resonator. This is for vhf 146.xx. If anyone has one or two let me know how much you want. Thanks Wayne
[Repeater-Builder] Re: F M Schematic Digest, a collection of Motorola schematics.
Thanks to all for the interest. If Eric wants it for Repeater-Builder I will donate it to the cause. 73 Wayne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Eric Lemmon" wrote: > > Before giving away such an interesting and informative document, please > consider lending it to the Repeater-Builder scanning team for conversion > into a full-size PDF for others to use and enjoy. Contact me off-list at > mycall at verizon dot net for more information about large-format scanning. > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:repeater-buil...@yahoogroups.com] On Behalf Of Tony Faiola > Sent: Saturday, September 26, 2009 12:36 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] F M Schematic Digest, a collection of > Motorola schematics. > > > > Hello Wayne: > > I came across one also. Would you like another one?? > > Tony, K3WX > > On Sep 26, 2009, at 12:49 PM, Wayne wrote: > > > Motorola collectors. I came across a copy of F M Schematic Digest > > by Sherman M Wolf. Publishing date unknown. > > This is an 11 x 17 inch booklet containing 136 pages of schematic > > diagrams representing much of the equipment manufactured by > > Motorola in the 1950 era. Included are alignment charts, crystal > > information, and even dynamotor information. Models covered are > > Motrac, Motran, Dispatcher, T-Power, Twin-V, Sensicon, Micro- > > Talkie, and much more. > > Looking at the pictures brings back a lot of memories. If anyone is > > interested in this book please contact me by reply to sender. > > > > Wayne , WA5LUY > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > > > > >
[Repeater-Builder] F M Schematic Digest, a collection of Motorola schematics.
Motorola collectors. I came across a copy of F M Schematic Digest by Sherman M Wolf. Publishing date unknown. This is an 11 x 17 inch booklet containing 136 pages of schematic diagrams representing much of the equipment manufactured by Motorola in the 1950 era. Included are alignment charts, crystal information, and even dynamotor information. Models covered are Motrac, Motran, Dispatcher, T-Power, Twin-V, Sensicon, Micro-Talkie, and much more. Looking at the pictures brings back a lot of memories. If anyone is interested in this book please contact me by reply to sender. Wayne , WA5LUY
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola MTR2000 Question
Chris, You might want to contact: Comtex Comm Pat L Gardenhire 601 Ferris Ave Waxahachie TX 75165 (972) 938-1980 They would seem to be your current radio shop and are a contact listed on the ULS for your WPVZ977 license. wa9ne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Christopher Hodgdon" wrote: > > Our are located in Texas. The following is the 3 callsigns issued to the > district and the frequencies they are paired to, according to the FCC ULS > system: > > WPMR402 FRN # 0001647460 451.750/456.750 Primary Bus/Emergency Maintenance > WPVZ977 158.385/173.325 PD Frequency > WPWW437 451.725/456.725 Maintenance Only > >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] New Transmitting Antenna SWR Question
I can't say for certain, but have you checked the antenna prior to putting it on the tower? I have a high gain antenna ion a twoer, need to get the heliax connected to it, but i tested in on a post before I put it on the twoer Also, LMR400 is not recommended for full duplex use. that type of cable can cause noise problems under full duplex conditions. I sometimes test cables as well, connecting them to a good dummy load, and test several ways. I have an analyzer, actually 2 of the, one only for the 70 centimeter band, and also check with a Bird 43 watt meter looking at reflected as well as forward power. matter of fact, I have some coax assembled by Cable Expertys taht turns out some has fare more loss than another, both 100 feet About 65 watts from a GE Mastr II repeater on the 440 band shows about 4 watts at the other end, and one less than 1 watt. Something not right there. So it is possible the coax and/or connectors have a problem By mounting my antenna low and using a known good jumper from my 440 analyzer. I determined the SWR was very low on the antenna. And testing cables will show you where the problem might be. Also, where are you inserting the meter? That can make a difference I tested my loss in my duplexer by testing watts before it and watts out. Found good for the rated insertion loss. And little reflected power on the transmitter side of the duplexer. the word is, test, test and test. test each part of the antenna system to locate where the problem really is... Wayne WA2YNE On Sat, May 23, 2009 at 8:17 PM, agrimm0034 wrote: > > > Currently just upgraded my home built GMRS Maxtrac repeater to a new 6.5db > Gain Tran-Max antenna. Says SWR should be 1.5 - 1 or less and I have a > reading of 2.5 - 1. I'm using LMR 400 ultra low loss cable at 40 ft putting > in 40 watts of power. The antenna is mounted on 40 ft tower old 3 legged > style. Nothing is around the antenna and check cable to make sure it wasn't > shorted and everything seems to be fine. Any ideas on how to make the > Standing Wave better? > >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] 440 Repeater Project
You simply use your own call sign, or the club you represent if you are the trustee for same. it is not like the early days of ham repeaters where one had to license it separately. I have used a club license, and presently use my own call sign. A bit more research on your part, especially the rules may be in order. Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, May 3, 2009 at 7:16 PM, redleg_8 wrote: > > > I have selected hardware, controller, duplexer, antenna, and location. > > SERA has provided me with available frequency pairs and a blank > application. > > What I CAN'T locate any information on is how to obtain a legal callsign > for a individually owned repeater. > > Thanks, > > Dean > KJ4LII > > >
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Ot, Need a Tool Part #
Gentlemen, I use the Model 4129 CT from Rostra Tool. www.rostratool.com wa9ne --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Mike Pugh wrote: > > Ken Arck wrote: > > At 04:29 PM 3/30/2009, Mike Pugh wrote: > > > > > >> Ryan wrote: > >> > >>> Hi Group, > >>> > >>> I am in need of the crimp tool for the 16 connector for the gm300 > >>> > >> series. The tool that allows crimping of the pins to wire. > >> > >>> Also, a source for said tool. I want one too!! Mike > >>>
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Tower cost?
Offhand, I would say 50% to 75% of what new sections would cost. I am hoping to get something at little or no cost myself, like a tower that had been used for a TV antenna. A number of those around no longer being used. Just a matter of finding one. The last tower I was offers was an old cracnkup tower that had a base that was rusted away. It had been given to the person by another ham, mainly to get rid of the thing. Such items become more work than they are worth. But something like you describe can be a good deal. Be sure you can buy a new base for it, or be able to fabricate a good base. Wayne WA2YNE On Sat, Mar 28, 2009 at 7:16 PM, drwoolweaver wrote: > Fellows: > > How much are seven sections of used Rohn 45 tower worth? The tower is on > the ground, has been painted, but the galvanized appears to be intact...no > rust. No bent sections. Estimates? Thanks de David > > >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Six Meter Repeater Noise Issues
I used to find several things creating noise problems. One is a noise on 145.250 Mhz, caused by leakage from cable systems. I could drive or walk around Hughson california and find so many spots where it leaked from poor connections, and so on. Another was the computers in use in many stores. I particularly recall an auto parts store that had noise on one of the local repeater outputs. There are a lot of cheap computers with a number of things adding to the noise problems. Cheap power supplies and poor shielding are two of them. Oddly enough, I myself was running an all Intel computer, and got virtually no noise from it even with the side cover off. this was Intel case, power supply, motherboard and CPU. I can't say if any of the above souces would cause noise problems on six, but some created havoc on HF. I also just recalled, we had a wireless doorbell that picked up SSB on 20 meters when I transmitted. Not on any other HF band, go figure. Back in the 70's, I tracked an HF noise source as being an older color TV that had a problem with the horizonatl output circuit (tube type). So, there are so many possible noise souces to consider... Wayne WA2YNE On Fri, 26 Dec 2008 12:36:28 -0600, James Adkins wrote: > Our 6-meter machine in Springfield, MO had an issue with a "noise" on > the RX > side. RX on 51.570 with TX RX duplexers and a dual cavity TX RX 11-18-06 > bandpass filter on the front end, and we were getting a "gurgling" type > noise. If we didn't run a PL, the squelch would hang open until the > repeater shut down. The problem only seemed to occur after about 4 p.m. > and > usually went away around 9 or 10 at night. > > We were determined not to install the repeater at the final site until we > could make sure that there was not a problem with the repeater. After a > couple weeks of checking and double checking and and looking for > interference, we finally found it . . . . > > It was an Apex 24" TV! Shutting it off resovled the problem. > > You just never know when it's 6-meters! Lots of noise out there, but, > that's part of the fun, too, is the extra challenges of putting up a > 6-meter > machine. > Balance snipped... -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:repeater-builder-dig...@yahoogroups.com mailto:repeater-builder-fullfeatu...@yahoogroups.com <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: repeater-builder-unsubscr...@yahoogroups.com <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: MSR2000 narrow banding
There were some frequency synthesizers made for the GE Prog lines, and a few others, back in the 70's to 80's, though I think they were mainly for ham radio use. I had, for a while, a prog line base on 2 meters with a synthesizer. easy dial up of frequency desired. This was back in the 80's mind you. I don't recall the make now, but I think it was made somewhere in NY state. And unknown if it was legal for commercial use. By that time, most progs had been removed from commercial service... So, such things do exist... Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 16 Jul 2008 18:48:08 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Mike, > > I did wonder about the "special RSS" comment, no license aggreement and > calling ICM. I thought well maybe it was something someone came up > with on their own, but ICM was out of place for even that. But wanted > to make sure. > > Actually I was thinking maybe someone came up with a synth to replace > the MSR2000 ch ele. I had thought of this while back for some of the > older GEs and Mot rigs. I bet one could manuf for the price of a > crystals especially when a complete synth HT goes for $100-140. Synths > are all over the place. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re : RadioShack Recalls Power Su pplies Due toElectrocution a nd Fire Hazards
Using 110-120 volt outlets for 220-240 is downright stupidity IMO. I sold a monitor to a store to replece one that had been plugged into 220 volts. Was simply not feasable to repair the old one economically enough. For my wiring, I use 12/2 W ground for outlet runs, except for two that I am running 10/2 W ground. I use 14/2 W ground for lighting circuits, and only 15 amp breakers. I use 20 amp breakers for the outlet wiring. I also recall in germany, we had 230 volts, but outlets were big round 2 prong if I recall right. That was in 1956. We had to use transformers to step down to 110-120 volts. I recall the washing machine ran a bit slow, but did work. But it was 50 Hz, rather than 60 as we use in the USA. There is no good reason to use the wrong type of outlets. Saving a few cents often means paying more for errors like plugging a 110 volt item into 220 volts. does a number really fast. Undersized wire can get hot and cause a fire, and it also drops the voltage. My dad found out that with a mobile home he had. Going to a larger supply wire/cable cleared up some problems he had. Anyway, maybe best to end this topic, as it is a bit off topic... Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 14 Jul 2008 09:38:37 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > I've seen some shotty wiring also. Scares you sometimes thinking what > can happen especially if the wire used is too small. > > One note is from the Philipenes. There they use, as many other > countries do, 220 VAC, but use the same 110 outlet we use here in the > US. My wife is from there and we sent a TV/VCR to her family with a 220 > to 110 converter which worked well. Then the converter went bad so they > simply plugged the TV into their outlet. Next they were asking about > parts for it and where to buy. I told them forget it for it was in > house part numbers and little chance of finding them. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Measuring Desense
I may be able to compare in February, once I can get some signals on the 27" HDTV, as it has the needed tuner for digital and HD. the adapters for other TV sets, at least the model I got, only have the RF and plain composite video, no S video even, as I seem to recall. What I am able to pick up will most likely be about the same as what I watch on my 15" LCD TV at present (other than RF, cables not long enough to reach from where I have the satellite receiver. So far, I have not been able to pick up any digital signals. maybe antenna will need tweaking. Don't know what they will have on VHF parts of the band later on. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 22:44:04 -0500, wd8chl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > TGundo 2003 wrote: > >> As for picture quality- If it's an SD program it may look the same on >> analog vs digital, but if your HD looks the same then something is >> wrong. Period. > > Yeah-there's something wrong alright-it's all hype. DTV is a big rip-off. > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Measuring Desense
For me, TV may be another matter. I can pick up 7 and 9 VHF, maybe 60-70 air miles away, and Channel 2 barely (sometimes almost fair at night). Plus 69 UHF, but seems to be only B&W and in Spanish. There are a few more channels, but may be too weak and in a slightly different direction. I don't know if digital will make any real difference for me, though I may get the antenna a bit higher and add my rotor (hate to use it for that, as I'd rather use it for my 6 and 2 meter beams). Maybe using 1/2 or less of the cable I have up temporarily will help as well. I can get 18 on the POS antenna on top of my DTV dish, but not on the big antenna. But that is also in Spanish. would maybe be nice if the noise on 6 and 2 drop, will have to see. I'm 30 miles from 2 cities, not sure if Ft Stockton has a TV station or not, as I never find a listing for one. Monahans is the other that's 30 miles, while most of the TV stations I know of are Midland/Odessa, 50 plus miles to Odessa by air, Midland being about 20 miles more. if the noise floor does drop, I might be able to use a couple more repeaters. But aside from my 70 centimeter repeater, the rest are all at least 30 miles away. Time will tell... Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 10 Jul 2008 10:05:00 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Bob, > > One other note on the VHF lo and 6 m. 6 might improve due to the HDTV > stations will be able to run considerably lower power. Our Ch 10 on VHF > hi will go from 42 kW RF, 216 kW ERP, to avarage 2 kW with 10 kW peak > RF. They will also like the electric bill more, hi. > > Not sure what power levels will be at VHF lo transmitters, but will > reduce the affects on 6 m. > > For me there is only a ch 3 on VHF lo and it is over 50 miles away. > Nearest ch 2 is over 80 miles. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > >> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] >> Date: 2008/07/10 Thu AM 10:03:26 EDT >> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Measuring Desense > >> >> Regarding the "note" at the end of the article: TV 2, 4 & 5 will go >> dark at >> the analog/DTV cutover in Feb. 2009. Ironically, 6 meters may become >> less >> noisy on Mt. Wilson than UHF. :( >> >> Bob NO6B >> >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: New Repeater Desense Problems
I am wondering if a person could make an Iso Tee for a bird? I may have a slug that could be used as a basis for one, as I picked up several damaged slugs in an alley once. May have to possibly unbend one to get an okay fit, don't want to have to force one into my baby. Sometimes I wish that the dummy slug(s) that originallycame with mine had not been misplaced. My brother sold it to me a few years back, and the dummy slug(s) were not in with it. Mine never got abused, as I bought it new for my brothers shop. Anyway, an Iso Tee might be a good addition once I get a shop fixed up. And hoping I never come up with a desense problem when I set up a secondart repeater here. Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 08 Jul 2008 22:47:18 -0500, de W5DK <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I think he was Laryn. I could see an argument that it may not have been > aligned and caused the situation. But,, > > > In this case the matching circuit was installed and set properly, also > the > duplexers and all were perfect. The system was stable for years then > boom, > desense. > > > All I was saying was that this station worked Perfect into a dummy load > (zero desense and all to spec) but did not into feedline(+15db) . So we > cringed and focused there. > > > We were getting ready to replace the antenna at 580 ft and spend some > money > after the dummy load test. Luckily the amp finished failing. What I > relayed > locally after this experience was that a complete system that works > flawlessly into a dummy load may not be flawless. > > > I do think the majority of desense problems can be diagnosed with a dummy > load and a sampler slug / iso tee. I just wanted to throw a recent > experience / monkey wrench into the thread hi. > > 73 > > Don W5DK > > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Motorola High band base (tube type)
I have a fair number of 66 split mastr II mobiles, mainly 110 watt PA's, plus a few 40 or 50 watt units, and one has the PLL exciter. Another did, but I swapped that into the mastr II base I converted to a 2 meter repeater. I seem to recall testing all units, but two have had parts swapped or removed. The person that got the repeater from me wanted a higher power PA, but I hope he didn't install it and try to run it at over 60 watts or so, as the base used a mobile/intermittent duty PA. I had put a 40 watt PA in it. I also have 1 complete 88 split, plus another minus exciter that i got as a replacement because the heat sink was damaged due to poor packing. Plus an E case 88 split, 2 receivers in it. Never tested that one, as I was very PO'd at the seller, who never made good. He had dumped it into an oversized but weak box with only foam peanuts in it. Needless to say, front casting was damaged, as well as a few fins on the heat sink (bigger that the normal mobile heat sink though). I'd say the 66 split is worth maybe $25.00 to $40.00 if working, a bit more with all accessories (head, cable, speaker and microphone). You are most likely right that the big base may need the filter caps replaced. the Prog line units may not be worth much at all. there were some other mobile units, didn't pay too much attention to what they were. it is my understanding that all of the fire departments radios will need to be repelaced before too long due to the new bit about needing to go digital. I tried looking up information about that, but seems to be hard to dredge up. there is a Motorola base in a shack that is a much newer unit, I foget if it is MTR or what, 2000 series. I noticed some duplexer cans near by, but thinking last night, those may be because there are two frequencies fairly close together. One as I said is 154.3xx, the other a bit higher I think, was maybe for the ambulance service we currently don't have. but both on the same license, which I found by searching by name on the FCC.gov web site. While I would like to see the fire department get something out of the old units, I know they are not worth what the one person may think they are. heck, I bought a huge batch of prog lines for less than $200.00 back in the early 80's, and they are worth far less now IMO. I still have to look into just what is there, and what accessories are with any of them. the Mastr II could still be used at this time, if it is working, but is bulky compared to the new units now. I could set up one of the Delta S units I have, readily enough, but even that won't be useable once the fire department has to go digital. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, George Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > --- Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > In the storage loft at our local volunteer fire > > depeartment sits an older > > Motorola High Band base unit. > > This is a big monster by todays standards, cabinet > > maybe 5 to 6 feet tall. > [snip] > > > You'd probably need to replace all the > electrolytics... I still have a Motorola mobile of > similar vintage (had the 1/2-coffee can contol head, & > vibrator PS) on 34/94 that I picked up in Scranton, PA > for $25 (with a homemade test set). > > Still works FB after replacing all the caps. Crystals > had drifted a little. > > The 66-split MASTR II mobile is worth something, > though. I still have one of those that I was going to > build a 2-meter repeater out of, but no open pairs > here in Chicagoland. Maybe someday... > > 73, > > George, KA3HSW / WQGJ413 >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies
To properly plug in an item that is a 20 amp draw. etc., one should install a 20 amp outlet. This can be single or duplex, and is readily spotted (if dual purpose) by the fact that one side will be flat instead of vertical, or have both horizontal and vertical on that side. the flat/horizontal is on the neutral side. Not to be confused with a similar looking outlet for 250 volts, which has two flats , and one has vertical as well on the left side, looking at the front with the ground hole down. Anyway, there are oulets made for 20 or more amps, which are different than the 15 amp common outlets. local ordinances can often be more stringent than even the NEC codes. of course, if you are running a high power repeater, you would probably wish to put it on a circuit breaker by itself. But ordinary house wiring normally has several outlets wired in series from one breaker, and is NEC approved that way. Shop and Industrial become another matter, ha ha ha... Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 06 Jul 2008 20:08:33 -0500, Bruce Bagwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I figured that was A local code, not NEC. The only reason I can think > of for that requirement is the ampacity of the 12 or 14 ga wires. While > we all know, in actual use, 2 or more outlets strung along will not all > have 15 amp or higher loads in EACH outlet. However, theoretically, each > outlet could have A 20 amp load plugged into it.That is probably why > some pencil pusher decided each outlet needs its own wire. (Never mind > the fact the breaker would trip regardless of what is plugged into each > outlet or the number of wires leading to said outlets, but that's > another crazy thread) As for the Breaker Box, I would assume each also > has its own breaker. Trying to stuff more than one wire into A breaker > would more fun than I care to have. > > Bruce > KE5TPN > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Motorola High band base (tube type)
In the storage loft at our local volunteer fire depeartment sits an older Motorola High Band base unit. This is a big monster by todays standards, cabinet maybe 5 to 6 feet tall. I didn't have anything to write down the model number. At a glance, it almost looked like GE Prog line strips, but thinking, they are a bit wider strips. All tube of course, and most likely still has the crystals set up on the fire frequency (154.3XX). Unknown whether it is working or not. Vintage maybe from the Twin V days? The person who showed it to me seemed to think it was worth some money, but to me it would only be good for the cabinet. Someone would have to make an offer, and maybe pick it up. I'd bet it weighs over 400 pounds? There are also what looked to me like GE prog line units, possibly AC powered, some had the control unit on the front. plus a number of other radios sitting there. the only one that looked interesting to me is a mastr II mobile, 110 watt 66 split, unknown operating condition. May or may not have cable and head with it. I'll try to find out more later. I dare say the base and prog line units are wide band compared to what we use now These are in Imperial texas, which is a 60 mile drive from Odessa, 30 from Monahans or Fort Stockton I'm not as familiar with the older Motorola equipment, but being as it is all tube, as are the Prog lines, it might or might not be of interest to someone on the group. The base would have to be shipped freight, or picked up. And even freight would cost due to its size and weight. Looks like twice or more the weight of my Mastr II repeater that is in a 30" deskmate cabinet. I am behind in reading emails, so could take a few days to read any replies. Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: RadioShack Recalls Power Supplies Due toElectrocution and Fire Hazards
I have seen instances where a light switch to a ceiling fixture was put in the neutral side, nd not the hot side of the line. I have also seen where some hams, to save money, were using 120 volt 3 prong plugs for their mobile radios. Thinking what would happen if someone else plugged it into a 120 volt outlet, ha ha ha. I also dislike 12 volt light fixtures that take a 12 volt screw in bulb of the same size as a 120 volt light bulb. Took me a while to figure that out on a 5th wheel I had, and putting a 120volt bulb in it would not light. A previous owner had rewired the light over the bathroom sink for 120 volts, but using zip cord. At one corner of a 10 acre plot, of which I own 1/4, there is an electrical box on a pole, no switches or breakers, that still has 430 volts coming into it. they use a lot of supposed 480 volt motors around here for oil well pumps. They wire two transformer outputs in series to get the 480. Some, but not all, meter boxes are marked 480 volts. I see a lot of poor wiring around this area. I even found one outlet in this house, one of only two left, that had the white and black wires reversed. I redid that before I hooke that line up to a new breaker panel. I had to extend the wire, but did that in a box to be sure of what I had. I always tend to check each outlet to be sure it is wired correctly. Most of the ceiling lights that had been in here were poorly wired with no boxes at the fixtures. I'm putting in boxes where I will be wiring ceiling/wall fixtures. It doesn't take that much to do a proper wiring job, compared to a lousy jb with possible hazards... YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Sat, 05 Jul 2008 01:39:50 -0500, Bruce Bagwell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > There are many makes of voltage sensing sticks one can get basically > anywhere. > > Many times I have seen outlets "Converted" to 3 wire from two, only to > find all they did was "ground" from the neutral wire. That means I get > all kinds of RFI and if the "Ground" ever dropped, it would be HOT just > from the return from the light bulb or whatever. > > BTW, those cheap "Testers" will NOT detect HOT/Ground/Neutral Reverse! > > If in doubt, run a wire from a known ground to your Meter and find what > wires are "Hot" > > I remember A house I rented, every time I touched the light > switch/outlet in the garage I got "tickled" > Glad I knew what was going on or else I might have made full contact, > and I would not be typing this right now! > Swapped the HOT/Neutral/Ground and all was OK! > > Always remember, just because the outlet is "Grounded" does not mean it > is really "Grounded" Verify! > > Stay safe out there! > > Bruce Bagwell > KE5TPN > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Reasonably low wind load antenna
A bit late replying, way behind on emails. OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware) was carrying a lot of heavy aluminum tubing, rods and more. I bought all of the aluminum for my J Poles from them. I don't know if they have stores in the bay area or not. I wonder, the Ringo Ranger, if it would do better if one used Noalox on the joints? Based on a version of the Ringo I had years ago, there are a few details I don't like about them anyway. Cush Craft makes a fair but cheap type antenna. But I have heard from others in the past that antennas like the Ringos are not good for repeater use. Add to that about not using coax like LMR400 and similar for fiull duplex, could make for a maybe very noisey combination? Anyway, there are a number of possible places to get aluminum, but one does need to consider shipping costs. Someone suggested Ace Hardware, but I have not seen much aluminum stuff in the ones I have shopped in. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas On Tue, 24 Jun 2008 22:54:43 -0500, Dave Gomberg <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The shipping on a 20 foot long piece will be awful. You need a > local source. In the Bay Area, there is a non-ferrous metal store > at Davis and Doolittle in San Leandro. I got a piece of heavy wall > 2.25" Al there. Wasn't cheap, but wasn't too bad either ($75?). > > At 15:11 6/24/2008, n9wys wrote: >> Doesn't Texas Towers and other such vendors sell heavy-duty aluminum >> mast >> tubing? Why not try there? >> >> Mark - N9WYS >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of n3dab >> >> For anyone looking for a DB mast to mount their dipoles and harness >> on, check out all you commercial radio shops for damaged or pulled DB >> antennas. Don't worry about what band they are on - all you wan't is >> the mast anyway. DB's are sleeved internally at the center joint >> with exposed ends of the upper and lower mast sections being cut at a >> 45 degree angle. The sleeve is secured in the top mast section and >> slides into the bottom section about a foot. the top and bottom are >> secured together with 2 SS hose clamps. The base is also sleeved >> internally for clamp reinforcement. >> >> Another source would be a metal fabricator or aluminum supplier and >> purchase a 20' section of 1 3/4" 0r 2" heavywall aluminum tube and >> mount your dipoles on it. Wall thickness should be 1/8" thick minimum >> top to bottom. If you can also pick up a 24" long section of tube to >> slip up into the bottom to reinforce the clamping area all the better. >> >> Doug N3DAB >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: software repeater controller
Linux and such have problems with drivers for some things that I need to do. Might be okay for something like a controller, as long as I could locate needed drivers. Intel seems to provide some drivers for many of their motherboards though, just not for printers and things I would want. As far as Windows not being stable enough, it depends on the version. I started using Windows 2000, as I got tired of BSOD's all the time with Win 98. I tried Win ME, and found it to be a total memory pigout specialist, so NG. I wound up going to Windows 2000, and found it would not crash. I would run it 24/7 on several different motherboards along the line. I only found 2 programs that I tried that were able to make it actually puke. I ran it 24/7 on a couple of different Intel Server motherboards, still have one set up, and unless something has happened while it has been stored in a box for a couple of years, it should fire up and take off from where it was last used. My current motherboard, also Intel, has Win 2000 on C drive, and Win Vista Ultimate on D drive, and I can boot to 2000 when I have the need to do so. Vista Ultimate seems to be very stable now, though Home Premium seemed to have a few bugs (though that could possibly be due to having to move it twice due to a lightning strike that took out a power supply and motherboard, and possibly there was more that I did not find). If I simply wnat something as a controller, or to run echolink through the repeater, i will most likely simply set up Windows 2000 once more on a uATX motherboard (to keep power use down a tad). I had also run NT 4.0 for a while, and it was very stable for the year I used it (trial copy that will no longer install on anything) Windows 2000 is actually NT 5.0, which is one of the reasons it is so stable. However, I still would not use a PC as a controller for a repeater, unless I needed to use many ports and so on. For most repeaters, IMO, a controller made for the purpose works well enough and will simply reset itself in case of power outage, when power is restored. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas On Fri, 20 Jun 2008 10:01:58 -0500, wd8chl <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > jistabout wrote: > >> Just my opinion and experience of course, but I've found the Linux >> Distros which I've tried (Red Hat, Debian, Mandrake and a few others) >> to be cumbersome to set up and somewhat quirky compared to Windows, >> especially a stripped-down lean copy of XP. Also, its not as easy to >> install/use Echolink with Linux. > > ...I'm still trying to figure out how you took the .net out of XP. All > the articles I read on XP when it came out said that .net is the basis > of XP. Like DOS is the basis for 95/98. Or at least that it's > inextricable. > >> On the other hand, I've heard of repeater systems using Linux & >> control software which work very well and are quite reliable. >> >> - Darrell/KA7BTV > > I haven't played with Linux yet, but it is MUCH more stable then Windows > will EVER be. I have seen some hardware that had a Linux-based > controller imbedded, and it just ran...and ran...and ran... > About the only thing I've seen that was more stable was DEC VAX/VMS...:c) -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: software repeater controller
I sold mine when I went to a C-64, and sold that after I went to a Franklin Ace 1000, and so on would not mind having a good C64 and certain games, but for most of what I do, I'll suffer along with PC's... I do not miss the floppy drives that ran hot and tended to get knocked out of alignment. Not to mention that the small controllers we have handy use lots less power. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 19 Jun 2008 08:07:53 -0500, Alexandre Souza <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> two words come to mind when recalling the VIC's >> 'syntax error'AAAHH ! > > Mine is fried...I need a parts donor, the PLA went south :( > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] the scam changes...
There are tons of scams out there. I keep winning millions of dollars in lotteries that I never heard of. But there are people that fall for these, provide information to the scammer and get taked to the proverbial cleaners. I did have an incident a few months ago where someoen used my card number to charge a few things in europe. Started with a pair on womens Italian boots, then an airline ticket, and they tried a second ticket. I did have the charges reversed. I would not be buying shoes for a woman, and have not been in Europe since 1956. Not to mention I will not fly anyway. I caught the charges right away, as I tend to check my account a few times a week. The card scams are only a small part of the whole picture. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE 441.950TX 446.950RX 167.9 On Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:46:14 -0500, Com/Rad Inc <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I share this crazy deal with y'all > Some Mort in Indonesia gave us an order for 10K worth of ICOM gear on 4 > credit cards.Air mail to Surabaya or wherever. We took the card > info but never shipped the stuff. a few days passed an some lady in > Albequerqe ( spelling? ) called me and asked why we nicked her Visa for > $2500 - naturally I appologized and refunded / reversed the deal. > Scam-o-rama is alive and well on the internet!. > > I am waiting for my many 3.3 mega buck slices from confidants in the > third world. oy-vey > > Ed > Com/Rad Inc > Des Plaines, IL > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] need slug for GE Delta
Can't help on the slugs. But the "didlle stick", if the square one, can be obtained in a kit from some of the radio Shack stores. Several other sticks in the kit. I don't recall the part number offhand though. I bought several of them at one or two stores in Lancaster California, but that was maybe 2 1/2 to 3 years ago General cement (GC brand) used to have almost any alignment tool one wanted, but may be hard or impossible to find nowadays. I used to "trim" some tools to work for some items when I could not find something that worked otherwise. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas On Tue, 10 Jun 2008 19:50:16 -0500, Coy Hilton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hi gang > > Does anyone know where I can get replacment slugs for L209 19B800956P1 > for a VHF high band GE Delta SX and a matching tuning wand (diddle > stick if you will). A suggestion as to what I can replace it with > would be a great help. > > Thanks gang > > AC0Y > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Folded Diploles or Vertical antenna/Power Readings
There are several calculators on line, that might help a person decide on cablr types to use. <http://www.ocarc.ca/coax.htm> which shows a numer of cable types to select from, and you input the length, frequency, and wattage, plus the SWR/reflected power ratio. Even at 450 MHz, an SWR ratio of 1.5:1 shows low loss in fact. The type of cable can make a tremendous difference. Tuners/matchboxes do not normally make the antenna radiate any more power, but make the output of the radio happier seeing a better matched load I people saying that a dipole is 50 ohms at the center feed, but I had been taught/learned that it wos closer to 75 ohm (more like about 72) at the resonant frequency. A folded dipole tend to be, if my memory is corect, on the order of 300, give or take. used to be able to easily fiond these facts in the Radio Amateurs handbook, but they don't have as much information in the newer versions. Someone mentioned 30 ohm coaxial cable, where do you find this type? I don't recall ever seeing any info to speak of, unless you can dive deep into older catalogs like Belden had. back to the baic dipole, using 50ohm cable on a 72 ohm dipole will still be under 1.5:1 at resonant frequency, so loss is _not_ enough to worry about. Worry more about using bad cable, poor connectors, especially when not installed properly, and mounting antenna too close to metal or other items that can affect it. When making power readings, these should be done first into a good dummy load. I have one that will handkle up to 150 watts with a huge heat sink, and shows, at lower frequencies, less that 1.1:1 SWR, and even low at 450 MHz. Use short jumper to the meter. Then add duplexer, and take second reading. This shows the duplexer loss, which can be figured in Bd loss In my case, about 100 watts from the PA, to about 70 from the duplexer cans, is about the rated 1.5Db loss for the model duplexer. Then subtract figured loss from the cable, and add the gain factor for the antenna. This latter is where it gets confusing. many manufacturers, especially for ham bands, rate in DBi, and not DBd, which can be incorrect. As an example, I have a Diamond X510NJ rated at 11.7 DB gain. this is DBi, and I found, somewhere, information showing about 9 or 9.5 DBd gain for the antenna on the 440 band. I wonder what the actual basis is for the Db, maybe a 1/4 wave mobile whip? It can be misleading when you don't know the basis for the gain factor. Now, to the folded dipole. Does it in fact have gain over the straight dipole? if so, what is the gain factor in reality? What is the gain factor for 2 phased together, and so on? YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 04 Jun 2008 19:36:13 -0500, Laryn Lohman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Note that forward power can sometimes read higher than true if > there is >> more reflected power. > > > Very true. Power coming back down the line is RE-reflected in the > transmitter and adds to the forward power, producing an *awesome* > forward power reading. > > >> And to answer something that one person came up with a while back, >> decreasing the reflected power does not add it to the true radiated > power. > > > ...Another way of saying that reflected power does NOT subtract > directly from the power that is radiated by the antenna. > > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Folded Diploles or Vertical antenna?
Questions can arise here. First, what kind of wattmeter, with what accuracy level is he using. Is in an RMS or peak reading unit? Makes a difference. Where is he measuring the power. On my Mastr II 440 repeater, I show maybe 105 watts from the PA to a good dummy load. I am using a Bird 43 with a 100 watt UHF slug. Two cans in the TX path (Decibel) and the power drops to about 70 watts. that figures to be about 0.75 Db loss per can. Not sure, but i recall the specs come out to 1.5 Db insertion loss for the model. Lowest insertion loss per can I know of is maybe 0.5 Db per can. I have a pair of VHF Decibel cans, and they can be adjusted from 0.5 to 3.0 Db insertion loss by adjusting the couplers. That is per can. My Motorola Trash Cans are set at 1.0 Db per can (called trash cans because of their size). What is the rated power output of the transmitter in question, and what is the insertion loss. Is there a true reading on the wattmeter? Note that forward power can sometimes read higher than true if there is more reflected power. Supply voltage to the PA can cause higher power output if higher than specs call for. And having a poor match between the unit and the load can make it look like more power. And to answer something that one person came up with a while back, decreasing the reflected power does not add it to the true radiated power. Actually, if you have 100 watts forward reading, and 5 reflected, the actual radiated is more like 95 watts, minus feed line loss. people forget to take feed line loss into account. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 03 Jun 2008 16:20:40 -0500, Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Snipped > You know -- now that he mentions it... > > 120W *AFTER* the duplexer on a four-can set? I don't believe those > numbers work. > > The receivers in the Icom repeaters are not very selective, and they're > quite sensitive. I bet that setup will desense the snot out of itself. > > But curious if I'm wrong... how? > > How much isolation is that Telewave 4-can set at VHF? > > Nate WY0X > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] NHRC-2 PC Board Art
I normally add my location to my signature, ha ha. I am in Imperial Tejas (Texas), 30 miles north of Ft Stockton. About 250-260 miles East of El Paso. Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas 441.950TX 446.950RX 167.9 tone On Sun, 01 Jun 2008 17:16:49 -0500, Scott Berry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > What the QTH? I am in Margie Mn, about 30 miles south of International > Falls and about 90 miles north of Bemidji MN. > > > > Scott Berry > Email: sberry at northlc.com > Ham Call sign: N7ZIB > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 3:46 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] NHRC-2 PC Board Art > > While it looks good for the kit, it is sometimes a bear to assemble all > or the other parts needed. > I am so far from decent supply places that I would have to mail order > most, if not all of the other parts required. Savings would be minimal. > A better compromise would be a full kit with all needed parts. > the $24.95 kit is a partial kit, and I won't get involved with that > type > of kit nowadays. > > The NHRC-2 is also available as a partial kit. > May be a few others out there as well. > OTOH, one can buy assembled and tested controllers from about $89.95 > and > up. > I have an ICS Basic, good controller with few frills, and not too > difficult to connect and set up. > the NHRC-2 is also good, and as easy to set up. > > I only suggest kits if you are very good at assembling and have parts > readily available at reasonably low cost. > YMMV > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Third Harmonic Cavities
While some may tune down even closer, they are usually only good for lower power, and may not have as steep a skirt as better ones. The small duplexr I have is a Sinclair, model R-217C. Original frequency, according to label, was 151.160TX 159.300RX. Rack mount case, has 4 small cans maeked Reject, one connector per each can BNC connectors internally, with N connectors externally, both cables combined into antenna connector. RG142 type cables internally. I don't know the power handling capability. Can't find any info on a Google search. Might or might not be useable for a wide split portable 2 meter repeater. I had bought as supposedly 6 can, and did get a refund from the seller. A number of Ebay sellers will make good when item is not what it was supposed to be. For a 600 KHz split, I have 2 Decibel cans, nice units, and 2 Motorola Trash cans (even bigger units). Dunno if I'll ever get to put up another 2 meter repeater or not, but have enough parts to do so, other than crystals for the Mastr II ICOM's... YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 01 Jun 2008 14:23:00 -0500, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > At 5/31/2008 22:10, you wrote: > > >> I have two UHF mobile duplexers. One from, supposedly, a Motorola, >> and had been tuned down to the 440 band, the other I stripped from a >> garbage Motorola unit, have not tried retuning it. >> Either would be good for up to 50 watts, but maybe not much more. >> And they can be had fairly cheap when you find them. >> They work well on a 5 MHz split. The VHF mobile duplexers are also >> usually designed for a 5 MHz split, and as such are of no use on 2 >> meters. > > Not true. Many can be tuned down to ~2.5 MHz split & are quite useful > for > portable repeaters, like the one I brought to Dayton in a suitcase. > > Bob NO6B > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Folded Diploles or Vertical antenna?
A good source for Heliax is: <http://www.surpluscoax.com/index.html> Reasonable prices at this time. As I recall, 1/2" Heliax for about $1.45 per foot, and they have the needed connectors as well. Prices on the Heliax are less than 1/2, or almost that,compared to what HRO shows for the same types. I would tend to want to go with the 7/8" for even lower loss. I did buy 100' of the 7/8" Heliax, and connectors, for use on my 440 repeater. remember, the lower loss works for receive as well as TX., and can effectivley increase your range a bit more. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas 441.950TX 446.950RX 167.9 tone On Sat, 31 May 2008 18:07:46 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Shame you can only get up to 50 ft. D-Star is exciting mode and the > telewave 4 can duplexer is good. I would consider something other than > the LMR400 for with their dis-similar double shields it can cause noise. > I would seriously consider 1/2" heliax and 80 ft will not be big > investment. > > I am not familar with the Anitron-150, but since similar to the 220 it > will play well. One problem with fiberglass antennas is that they are > made of coaxial lines that are often soldered together. Lightning tends > to melt the solder when hit and being top mounted can be a concern. > > I think all ICOM D-Star gear is lower power than the 120+ Watts. Wonder > what PA you are using. > > As so many Ham repeaters start they begin at a low site. Then they get > going and others find them and someone comes up with a better site often > a broadcast engineer with an inside tie or commercial guy that has > access to a higher site. You just need to be ready to jump on it when > it comes, and if you hang in there it will come...not a question of if, > but just when. > > Good luck with your system. You've gone this far so might seriously > consider replacing the feedline. I am sure there are others that agree. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > Ron Wright, N9EE > > 727-376-6575 > > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > > No tone, all are welcome. > > > > > On Sat, May 31, 2008 at 6:49 PM, atms169 wrote: > > It's the KE5KAF Dstar system in Laredo. > 2 Meters > 120 watts after duplexers > Telawave 4 cans 600 Split > Coax LMR-400 80feet > Antenna I want to put up is a Commercial Anitron-150 Similar to a DB220 > > --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com > <mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com> , Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: >> >> atms169 wrote: >>> Hey guys, I'm trying to find radiation patterns or a calculator to >>> see what would be the best possible coverage for our repeater. >> >> There's a number of calculators on the web, and some good links in the >> RB website for Excel spreadsheets where you can see the math if you > like. >> >>> We are in the very flat lands of Texas and our repeater is only up 50 >>> feet (total of 530 above sea level). With 120 watt output. >> >> 120 watts after the duplexer loss, or before? What kind of duplexer, >> feedline, etc. >> Assuming 50' for the transmitter and 8' (I'm being generous) for a >> mobile rig, the radio horizon between those two is approximately 14 >> miles, according to the popular calculators. >> Anything else isn't line of sight propagation. >>> Which do you think would work better? A dual folded dipole antenna >>> with low angle of radiation or a fiberglass vertical at 6db? >> >> Let's assume power doesn't matter for a moment, and just break it down >> into comparison of the antennas. >> Remember, altitude trumps all, antenna gain and feedline losses next, >> and the PA is *last* place you want to make up for a weak antenna >> system. The antenna is gain both directions, transmit and receive. > The >> PA only helps people hear the repeater... it doesn't help them get > into it. >> >> So... the important info is missing in your question... >> What band? Can't answer the antenna question without knowing what >> band you're looking at to compare different sized antennas. Makes a >> big difference. I will assume VHF for these answers for the moment. >> You say 6dB. Is that 6 dBd or 6 dBi? That also makes a big > difference, >> since we're going from your numbers for the one antenna, and don't >> know which other antenna you're comparing to. >> What specific antennas are you looking at? Spec sheet on the web >> somewhere to reference? For both... the dipole array and the stic
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: 455khz filter for Mastr II discriminator audio
Wjhat nobody seems to be pointing out is the simple fact that the Mastr II series does not normally use a 455 KHz IF frequency. It would have to be a special IFAS board with a second converter to get from the normal 11.2 MHz, or 9.4 MHz in low band and 800 MHz units, plus a very few that have a 10.7 MHz IF frequency. I have one of the latter boards, quite a bit different that the normal IFAS boards. So tell me just how you arrived at 455 KHz? A single conversion receiver using 455 KHz would be super prone to severe image problems. Please cite the exact location showing any Mastr II using a 455 KHz IF frequency? BTW, what schematics have you looked at for the Mastr II RX units? Wayne WA2YNE Mastr II repeater on 441.950TX On Sat, 31 May 2008 15:55:28 -0500, Willis M. Hagler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hello Ron, > > The audio emphasis for FM is a different issue. When I put the > discriminator output from the Mastr II receiver on a analyzer you can > clearly see a spike way out at 455khz which I believe is the IF > frequency in the receiver. > > This controller has a auto-squelch feature (it does not use a COS/RUS > line at all) and it listens for the presence of high-frequency noise > coming off of the receiver to control the squelch. When a nice, full > quieting FM signal shows up the high frequency noise goes away and the > controller will detect this and kick on the transmitter. > > This detection circuit is behaving poorly on the Mastr II because this > strong 455khz component is throwing it off and making it shut down the > squelch because it thinks there's a lot of high-frequency noise even > when the signal is actually full quieting. > > Running the audio through a 10 mH inductor tied to a 1000pf cap to > ground should cause it to roll off the very high audio frequency and > solve the problem but here's what I run into trouble, there's > thousands of parts out there that say "10 mH inductor" so I'm over my > electronics head now! > > Thanks, > > Mark Hagler > W7WMH Seattle > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] NHRC-2 PC Board Art
While it looks good for the kit, it is sometimes a bear to assemble all or the other parts needed. I am so far from decent supply places that I would have to mail order most, if not all of the other parts required. Savings would be minimal. A better compromise would be a full kit with all needed parts. the $24.95 kit is a partial kit, and I won't get involved with that type of kit nowadays. The NHRC-2 is also available as a partial kit. May be a few others out there as well. OTOH, one can buy assembled and tested controllers from about $89.95 and up. I have an ICS Basic, good controller with few frills, and not too difficult to connect and set up. the NHRC-2 is also good, and as easy to set up. I only suggest kits if you are very good at assembling and have parts readily available at reasonably low cost. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 29 May 2008 21:40:04 -0500, Brian <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > There is another... > > The ICS Basic repeater controller kit is available for $25 > > www.ics-ctrl.com > > 73 > Brian > ka9pmm > > Mike Mullarkey wrote: >> >> Keith, >> >> >> >> Just buy it already put together and tested. The only controller >> manufacture that offers controllers in kit form is Arcom. >> >> >> >> Mike Mullarkey (K7PFJ) >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] *On Behalf Of *Keith Dobbins >> *Sent:* Wednesday, May 28, 2008 8:23 PM >> *To:* Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >> *Subject:* [Repeater-Builder] NHRC-2 PC Board Art >> >> >> >> I'd like to build the NHRC-2 repeater controller, I have all the parts >> except for a PC board, before I try and do my own board, is the mask to >> make your own anywhere? I'd do the kit from NHRC but I already got all >> the parts I need in stock vs getting the parts in the kit.I dunno if >> the board is available by itself or not. If I can't find it I figure >> I'd do one up from the schematics for what I need. Trying to get a >> backup controller for our 146 repeater and a new controller for our 440 >> repeater built. Thanks for any info or assistance. >> >> Keith Dobbins KC8RFW >> Repeater Technician >> W8TAP Repeater Group >> Parkersburg, WV 26101 >> >> > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Third Harmonic Cavities
I have two UHF mobile duplexers. One from, supposedly, a Motorola, and had been tuned down to the 440 band, the other I stripped from a garbage Motorola unit, have not tried retuning it. Either would be good for up to 50 watts, but maybe not much more. And they can be had fairly cheap when you find them. They work well on a 5 MHz split. The VHF mobile duplexers are also usually designed for a 5 MHz split, and as such are of no use on 2 meters. But still might be useful on the 440 band. But, as you say, why buy them when the ones made for UHF can be obtained really cheap? The duplexer I have that seems like it will work on the 440 band is not a mobile unit, but does use cans that are actually smaller than the Micor UHF duplexer I have, as well as the Decibel unit in my repeater. I bought it as supposedly being a 6 can unit, and the seller did give me a full refund and told me to keep it. And, as I said in another post, it does seem to tune to the 440 band readily enough. Maybe use it on a project later on here, being as I plan an E case mobile as a backup repeater. though I might just put a mobile duplexer in that, depending on the PA power. Regardless, some of those duplexers might be able to be used on higher bands. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: > > Plain 1/4 wave pass cavities usually work just fine at their 3/4 > wavelength, i.e. 2 meter pass cans will work @ 440 MHz. I've heard from > several sources that this works with BpBr duplexers as well, though I've > never tried myself - I saw at least one 72 MHz duplexer being sold at > Dayton as a 220 3/4 wavelength duplexer. > > Mobile duplexers are a different story, as the VHF units are electrically > short (& maybe the UHF ones too), so there would be quite a bit of > modification needed to move one. Given how cheap & plentiful both are on > the used market, it's probably easier to just buy the mobile duplexer you need. > > Bob NO6B > >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE Radios to sale !!!!
The duplexer I said was NG for 2 meters is 4 cans, but doing some preliminary tests indicate it can tune in the 440 band. I checked for lowest SWR in the VHF area, then for lowest in the UHF area. IT does seem to work, and has what looks like good steep skirts testing this way. These cans are not the two connector type, but use only one connector per can and TEE's at the cans. The ultimate test will be when I try setting up a unit, maybe less than 50 watts, and see how they compare to a Micor 2 can duplexer. Maybe later on, I can try some of the _big_ cans I have that work well on the VHF bands, and compare again. Mind, I don't say they will always work out, but some will, and some maybe will not. As I said, basic tests make it look good for the one type so far. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 28 May 2008 16:50:10 -0500, Eric Grabowski <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > It would be great if you could do that test. I have some VHF high band > duplexers that won't tune down into the 2 meter band but I would love to > use them on 70 centimeters. I too have read that not only is it possible > to use 150 MHz duplexers on 450 MHz, but that the performance is > slightly better because of the "larger" cavities. Unfortunately, I don't > have the equipment necessary to do the test myself, but I would really > like to know if this works. > > 73 and aloha, Eric KH6CQ > > --- On Wed, 5/28/08, Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> From: Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE Radios to sale >> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >> Date: Wednesday, May 28, 2008, 4:59 PM >> First, Who said it was considered 2 meters? >> Second, please turn your cap lock off. >> Third, I had read, somewhere, that some cavities made for >> the VHF high >> band could be tuned as bandpass on the 440 band. After all, >> the 3rd >> harmonic of 147.00 MHz is 441.00 Mhz. Same would, more or >> less, hold true >> for reject filters. >> And I said "might"... >> I just might do a test with a 3 can high band filter I >> have that is NG >> for normal 2 meter repeater splits. >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: GMRS Radios
because most of the people working at radio shack knew very little, they sometimes gave out misinformation. Some of them maybe had the low power business frequency radios confused with ham radio. I recall seing those in Radio Shack cataloga 5 years ago, and listing certain frequencies as not requiring a liceee when using the low power of maybe 5 watts or less on specific frequencies. Some of the rules changed along the way, but many have not. the best thing would be to read the newest version of Part 95, as well as certain other parts referring to business class radio. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 27 May 2008 20:51:30 -0500, Steve <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The Radio Shack one was for 2m. > > Food for thought, just because a store sells them, doesn't make them > legal. Remember Radio Shack was selling HTX202's and telling buyers that > the license requirement had been dropped. > > My 3 cents worth. > - Original Message - > From: Mung Bungholio > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 16:17 > Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: GMRS Radios > > > > Are you sure about that? They were actually selling them at one > point. I think Radio Shack had one. > > > > I would like to see where it says you can't do it. I will read again > but I didn't see it written anywhere. > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux
You seem to have some misinformation on this thread. Nowhere did anyone say anything about a password. Only about user names and email names. On Ebay, I use the same name that I started with a good time ago. My password is my business, and nobody gets it, period. Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas 441.950TX 446.950RX 167.9tone On Tue, 27 May 2008 11:34:37 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > If I were you I would use different names, totally different names for > the user and pasword. NOT a stupid rule. I am sure e-bay has had > problems of someone bidding $1000 on a screw by someone using anothers > account. > > Really I would suggest one does not discuss their passwords in any way. > User names are posted even if you bid so not a problem, but password is > the key to all. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > > > > Ron Wright, N9EE > > 727-376-6575 > > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > > No tone, all are welcome. > > > > > > > On Mon, May 26, 2008 at 11:58 PM, Wayne wrote: > >> I don't know when they changed it, but as I said in another reply, I >> did have the same name for my email as I have for my user name on >> Ebay. >> Seems like a stupid rule when you look at it. >> >> One used to be able to link to pictures on another site for auctions >> as well, but they stopped that as well. Like it was easy for me to >> put a number of pictures of an item on my site and link directly to >> them for an auction. Now you can't. But at least they changed it so >> you could add several pictures without running into extra charges. >> >> Not many other choices nowadays, as what was their early competition >> went away some time back. >> YMMV >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE Radios to sale !!!!
First, Who said it was considered 2 meters? Second, please turn your cap lock off. Third, I had read, somewhere, that some cavities made for the VHF high band could be tuned as bandpass on the 440 band. After all, the 3rd harmonic of 147.00 MHz is 441.00 Mhz. Same would, more or less, hold true for reject filters. And I said "might"... I just might do a test with a 3 can high band filter I have that is NG for normal 2 meter repeater splits. Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 26 May 2008 14:41:30 -0500, David Piche <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > WELL I HAVE A QUESTION, HOW IS 440 MHz CONSIDERED THE 2M BAND? I WILL > START THERE. > > --- On Sun, 5/25/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE Radios to sale > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Date: Sunday, May 25, 2008, 9:54 PM > > > > > > > At 5/25/2008 00:17, you wrote: > > Those are of no use for 2 meter ham, being as they are for a 5 MHz > split. > > However, it might be possible to use them on the 440 band. > > > > Wayne WA2YNE > > Imperial, Tejas > > VHF HB mobile duplexers can't be tuned to 440, but if it's a 6-section > duplexer, it can be tuned down to about 2.5 MHz, allowing use on 2 meters > for portable repeaters. > > Bob NO6B > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder]part 97.201 was Control Link
When I say "through one of the groups" I refer to arrl VEC groups. You fill out ARRL VEC Form 605-C and mail it to one of the groups. Must be signed by the trustee and one officer of the club (may not be the same person). I tried changing it in the ULS system, and was _NOT_ allowed to do so. I did change my 0wn addres twice with no problem. For clarification, see: <http://www.arrl.org/arrlvec/605ins.html#club> Interesting, it does not state that the officers of a club, other than the trustee, need to hold a ham license. Trustee must hold any class license other than Novice. How long ago did your trustee move? I is most likely that he was only able to change the address for his license, and not the club license, using the ULS system. Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 21 May 2008 20:41:49 -0500, Mike Besemer (WM4B) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > What do you mean 'routing it through one of the groups'? I'm not > positive, > but when the holder of our club call moved, I think he just had to go > into > ULS and request the changes to the mailing address. I'll ask him when I > talk to him again, but I remember him saying he had a problem only > because > he'd never registered in ULS. > > Mike > WM4B > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 5:53 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder]part 97.201 was Control Link > > I had tried a Google search, but as one person pointed out, too many > web > sites not updated. > Now I see it is best to simply go directly to the FCC web site and > look. > > regarding club calls/licenses, you cannot even put in a change of > address > > without routing it through one of the groups, as I found out. > > Wayne WA2YNE > > On Mon, 19 May 2008 19:25:21 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > >> >> To get any FCC regs go to: >> >> http://www.fcc.gov/ >> >> Select on the left "Rules & Regulations". >> >> At the top select "Title 47 of the Code of Federal Regulations." >> >> Now you can scroll down and select ANY Part you want including Part 97, >> the Amateur RAdio rules. >> >> You will be taken to another site. >> >> I always go to the first page of a reg to see its date. For at least 6 >> months after the changes in Feb 2007 when the code was removed, changes >> in AUX freq, etc the site had not been updated. The ARRL site was the >> same. Both now appear up to date. >> >> At the FCC.gov site one can do many things like apply for some license, >> get vanity call, renew, etc. They even take credit cards. However, a >> club call must be applied for on hard paper thru a VEC like ARRL or >> W5YI. >> >> 73, ron, n9ee/r >> >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE Radios to sale !!!!
I was refering mainly to the duplexers, not the rest of the units... On Wed, 21 May 2008 20:21:05 -0500, gervais <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi all, > > well i have 3 GE radios here with Little Sinclair Duplexer inside > them,they were used as a phone patch link, > > they are : > > CT56AAS66A with their channelle elements at 152.195 mhz RX and 157.495 > TX. > > the Duplexer are "RES-LOK Model SD-220 > > Serial:Q3242-43 > > > > if someone need them just send me an email, if no response,fryday they > are going to be recycle locally in a school in the radio Dept as cobaye > for the students!!!:-) > > > > 73/s > > Gervais ve2ckn > > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] GE Radios to sale !!!!
Those are of no use for 2 meter ham, being as they are for a 5 MHz split. However, it might be possible to use them on the 440 band. Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas On Wed, 21 May 2008 20:21:05 -0500, gervais <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Hi all, > > well i have 3 GE radios here with Little Sinclair Duplexer inside > them,they were used as a phone patch link, > > they are : > > CT56AAS66A with their channelle elements at 152.195 mhz RX and 157.495 > TX. > > the Duplexer are "RES-LOK Model SD-220 > > Serial:Q3242-43 > > > > if someone need them just send me an email, if no response,fryday they > are going to be recycle locally in a school in the radio Dept as cobaye > for the students!!!:-) > > > > 73/s > > Gervais ve2ckn > > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux
The problem there is simple. There isn't any next big auction site. Ebay drove many away years ago, and the supposed competition has crap. usually, but, of coure, not always, the bigger sellers on Ebay are trusable and will make things right. I read between the lines. I also tend to avoid sellers who give no idea as to shipping costs, or who charge what ios way high for shipping. Some took to selling items for 99 cents, with very high shipping, and same seller selling same item for more with lower shipping. Those sellers I do not trust I also have a few favorite sellers that have done right by me, and I'd buy from them again if they had what I wanted at a price I was willing to pay. Shipping costs for many items have gone up way too much. Auctions to maybe keep an eye on: Yahoo auctions. Not very good right now, but maybe if they get more people selling. Poor interface IMO. Ebid? Not sure, crappy interface. Note, at least one auction site extends bidding time if someone places a last minute bid. I forget exactly which this was right now. Drawbacks with some auctions: Newby buyers willing to pay more than an item is worth because they don't know any better, or have no sense of real value. Sellers who sell used items for the same or more than usual retail for a new item. Sellers who make false claims about items. Some cover teir behinds by cl;aiming they don't know anything about the item. Some claim item was working, when often it was already junk. Some say working, but may not say barely, or only partially. Sellers who are outright frauds. like one who was selling a replica radio as being an antique. A supposed 1930's radio that was transistorized, and even had a CD player, Huh? I am not sure how the new format for feedback will work out. True, it does not let a seller know about deadbeat bidders, and there are some of those. Some simply are stupid and don't read all of the description, then claim they didn't know after they wond the bid. And only in a few instances can a seller get credit for a sale that did not follow through. It does cost money to list, and so on. Won't go into details now, but some auctions cost a fair amount between the lsisting and fees... YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 20 May 2008 13:49:40 -0500, MCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > So if you're selling something on eBay, you will have no way to know if > someone is a "bid for fun" bidder? If that's true, it's time to find the > "next big auction site" because eBay won't last much longer. > > Joe M. > > ldgelectronics wrote: >> My e-bay popped up today saying that sellers could no longer leave >> negative or neutral feedback. No need to wait the 30 days. >> >> However, just as others have mentioned their preference, I like to >> resolve with communication rather than duke it out with feedback and >> filing claims. >> >> Dwayne Kincaid >> WD8OYG >> >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux - Ebay feedback
Regarding feedback on Ebay. Sellers can no longer leave negative feedback for buyer. This can be a minor problem with deadbeat buyers, and I have run across a few of those in the past. Buyer cannot leave negative feedback for the first 7 days. One advantage of the seller not being able to leave negative feeback for a buyer is that it eliminates the retaliation feedback. One of my 2 negative feedbacks was retaliation for leaving a Neutral feedback for a seller that was slow to ship and had poor response to emails. the other was also uncalled for, by a deadbeat seller who screwed a few sellers. I was lucky that I didn't lose anything but time on that one. buyer wanted to totaly rewrite a cantract for deed to allow him to be able to pay late, etc., with no penalties. He tried to claim the contract I sent him was not legal. He might have gotten a partial refund _IF_ he had sent back the contract as requested. This was a real estate auction, and a deadbeat buyer can cost the sellr money. I was lucky that he had paid the auction costs before he started acting up. Another seller never got any deposit from him, so was out the auction costs. Over $80.00 for those at that time. Oh yes, he also tried to claim that I did not own the land in question... Anyway, Ebay has changed the feedback rules, so supposedly a seller cannot leave negative feedback. neutral is another matter, but it does make it more difficult with deadbeat buyers. Not sure on the seller side. getting so you have to know the sellers a bit better. There are many that I would buy from again, if they had an item I wanted. Others I would never buy from for assorted and sundry reasons... wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 20 May 2008 08:35:03 -0500, Camilo So <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I did try to get his phone number but EBay reply due to privacy they > don't give phone number away, Looks like EBay is always on the Seller > side not the buyer, because one time I give a negative feedback to a > seller trying to sell a Harbor Freight conduit punch for a vintage tube > socket punch, that cost much more than the store tag price, they give my > phone number to the seller, the seller call and threaten me on the phone > if I don't take the negative feed back he'll give me a negative feedback > for retaliation. > > > 73's Camilo W4CSO > > > - Original Message - > From: wb6ymh > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 9:18 AM > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux > > > 290 all positive feedbacks and has had his ebay account since 99 ? > I'd give the guy the benefit of the doubt and send him another email > or try to find his telephone number. Emails do get lost. People do > go on vacation. > > Good luck! > > 73's Skip WB6YMH > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "Camilo So" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: > > > > Paypal is not doing anything but keep sending me to pay $65.00 more, > Do they have a new rules now that the seller can add an amount for > handling at any price they want??? > > I am trying to be nice with the seller, I also offer to add $16.06 > more to make it a total of $65.00 for shipping and handling, but the > seller never reply to any of my email, this is not my first time > buying this kind of equipment, if EBay or Palpal allow this kind of > transaction, adding handling price too high after the bid is over, > this is not acceptable. If he posts the price before the bid ended, > I'll never bid for an item with a high cost of handling, > > > > here is the item number 160239299000 > http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=160239299000 after > the bid ended I click on calculate shipping and handling, and type in > my zip code it show $48.94, then select Pay now, here is a attachment > the transaction. Sorry about the attachment. any one know this guy, > his new call is K5BLS, > > > > > > Camilo > > W4CSO > > > > > > > > - Original Message - > > From: Brian > > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > > Sent: Tuesday, May 20, 2008 1:18 AM > > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux > > > > > > I use a credit card or debit card also. Recently I bought a laptop on > > Ebay for $600 and paid for it using Paypal. Well the guy must have > died > > or something as I never heard from him or saw my laptop. So I > > complained to Paypal. They gave me a partial refund. > > > > The partial refund was what was left in his account (about $300). >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Wanted, 2 N-male to N-Female jumbers
I very often can find heliax jumpers with N connectors on Ebay. Some with M-M and some M-F. Looked last night and a number of 5 foot cables readily available. Also, one can try: <http://www.surpluscoax.com/index.html> for good deals on heliax and connectors. Not that hard to make jumpers. Just buy the amounts of cable you need/want over all, plus connectors, and assemble your own. Note that UHF connectors (PL259, etc.) are usually higher in cost that the N connectors for the same cable sizes. there are other sellers of Heliax at good prices. Yet some selling at list or near list for what is now considered obsolete. Note that HRO sells the 7/8" Andrew Heliax like I bought for %4585 per 100 feet. I paid either $2.45 or $2.55 per foot, and very reasonable shipping, plus I bought connectors made for the cable at reasonable prices. 1/2" heliax available at $1.45 - $1.55 per foot, the latter being the superflex, easier to work with for jumpers. With a bit of searching, one can often find jumpers or materials to make same. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 20 May 2008 08:18:24 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Chuck, > > I have a few, got all at Hamfest, but I want to keep. > > I see these all the time...at least at the larger fest. I have 15 ft > 1/2 heliax and RG214 cables with good N-connectors. Some of the > connectors don't look so good to the typical Ham, but that is because > they are silver and tarnished. Better connector electrically and > because most Hams don't know much they pass on them and the price comes > down, hi. > > I pay $10-15 for these. Just keep looking and you will see again. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > Ron Wright, N9EE > > 727-376-6575 > > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > > No tone, all are welcome. > > > > > On Tue, May 20, 2008 at 6:44 AM, Chuck Lippmeier wrote: > > List, > At Dayton I saw a pile of new 4-5 feet long N-male to N-Female low loss > jumbers for feedline end jumper connections. At the time I didn't think > to pick up a couple. However, now that I'm home I realize my need. My > repeater is 900MHz Maxtrac based using a 150W Motorola Cell site amp. > Does anyone have a couple of these jumpers for sale? > > Chuck Lippmeier > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux
What I would love to find is a 78 split. I seem to be seeing a number of 77 split bases showing up out there now. For a while, there was a fair amount of low split UHF gear coming out of Canada. I have a pair of Midland units that are on 429.xxx MHz. Never got to testing them fully, but they do work. They had been used as portable/mobile repeaters. I have a set of bandpass filters that had been used with them, and the bracketing that was used to mout two units togeter. Should make nice link or control radios. Even better if I can set up a programmer for them. Hmm, I wonder how far down I can get one or two of my Delta SX units below 440.000. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 20 May 2008 07:23:36 -0500, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > At 12:00 AM 5/20/2008, you wrote: >> If they are 77 split mastr II's, it is likely to be difficult to >> retune >> up to the 440 band. >> But not impossible with modifications. > > Even easier: trade with someone with an 88. 77s are harder to find & > highly sought after. > > Bob NO6B > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder]part 97.201 was Control Link
I had tried a Google search, but as one person pointed out, too many web sites not updated. Now I see it is best to simply go directly to the FCC web site and look. regarding club calls/licenses, you cannot even put in a change of address without routing it through one of the groups, as I found out. Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 19 May 2008 19:25:21 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > To get any FCC regs go to: > > http://www.fcc.gov/ > > Select on the left "Rules & Regulations". > > At the top select "Title 47 of the Code of Federal Regulations." > > Now you can scroll down and select ANY Part you want including Part 97, > the Amateur RAdio rules. > > You will be taken to another site. > > I always go to the first page of a reg to see its date. For at least 6 > months after the changes in Feb 2007 when the code was removed, changes > in AUX freq, etc the site had not been updated. The ARRL site was the > same. Both now appear up to date. > > At the FCC.gov site one can do many things like apply for some license, > get vanity call, renew, etc. They even take credit cards. However, a > club call must be applied for on hard paper thru a VEC like ARRL or > W5YI. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: ham websites (was: Re: [Repeater-Builder]part 97.201 was Control Link)
That explains it pretty well. Any time there is something like that, I would normally put a link to it on one of my web sites. I am aware that part 97 does change, as well as other parts of the rules. Of course, some people are so far behind that the code being dropped has not come to their attention yet, ha ha ha. I will admit that some of my web sites need updating, and have started on parts of them. I was keeping a database of 2 meter repeaters in Northern California, but got behind on that after I moved the first time. Plan to try and set one up for Texas now, but using the information from the coordinators web site (need to resolve reading parts of their current database, as it gets partly obscured by another frame (I hate using frames myself, seldom do) so don't see the tones and a bit of other information)... I see some web pages with such terrible text and background colors that one cannot read the text unless highlighted. I make most of mine so that virtually any browser can view it, and only use limited Javascripting. I have even set up some pages with an autorefresh, as some browsers tend to use cached pages unless you do a manual refresh. Gotta go catch up on more emails. Bad enough I get behind, but the power went out last night. Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 19 May 2008 16:36:27 -0500, Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne wrote: >> Why is it that it seems to be hard to locate the updated part 97.201 >> other than on the ARRL web site? >> I searched and searched but only came up with the older version till I >> searched on the ARRL site. > > Because most hams who have websites are clueless that Part 97 ever > changes. And personal websites are boring to maintain, after seeming > "fun" at first. > > (There's a lot of crappy neglected websites out there, including mine. > GRIN...) > > They copied down "some version" a long time ago and never update it, > instead of linking to someone who has a vested interest in having their > site up to date, like ARRL or -- oh yeah, the FCC themselves. :-) > > Which means they kinda missed the whole design goal of hypertext and > linking in the first place... > > Nate WY0X -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] coordination?
Yes, we must humor the coordinators if we desire becoming coordinated. The system used in some states is kinda behind the times compared to others. And from what I have heard, in some areas it is almost impossible to get coordinated. Some insist that you "must" join their group to even get started towards coodination. Or at least i read it that way. I will point out that a club license does still require a Trustee, and they have club licenses set up so one must got though the odd channel to A: get a club licnes, and B: go through the same hoops to even change the mailing address on the license. While parts of the waters flow forwards, some parts remain stagnant. I still wonder why the Texas coordinators do not show a band plan for 420 to 440 MHz. it's not like it isn't part of the 70 centimter band now. Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 19 May 2008 02:37:05 -0500, Paul Plack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > "Trustee" appears to remain in use by some coordinators for repeaters > operated directly by the licensees, a context in which the term has not > had > any meaning to the FCC since the "WR" callsigns went away. As long > as we > use the terms the FCC expects in any official communication with the > agency > itself, I guess it doesn't hurt to humor the coordinators. Sure does make > things confusing, though. > > 73, > Paul, AE4KR > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux
You'd be amazed at what negative feedback can do in many instances. I have given a few, a couple wound up being mutually retracted once the seller made good. But I won't take BS from any seller, especially when an item is not as stated. Most sellers seem to be okay, but some are outright dishonest and/or misleading. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 18 May 2008 17:05:00 -0500, Bob M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Fat luck complaining to eBay will do. When you try to > complain, the first thing they ask is "How did you pay > for it?" Once you say PayPal, that officially starts > eBay's "We don't give a s**t" responses, and they > won't do a thing for you. > > PayPal isn't much better, which is why I _ALWAYS_ use > a credit card through PayPal when paying for > something. The CC company will file the paperwork and > get your money back, leaving PayPal to provide the > service they claim they do when you use with other > forms of payment. > > Been there, done that. Good luck finding a phone > number for either eBay or PayPal too. > > Oh, and don't forget the "fine print" that says you > can only file xx complaints per year, where xx is a > very small prime number. > > Bob M. > == > --- n9wys <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >> Don't forget to file a claim with both eBay and >> PayPal, explaining the >> circumstances. Hopefully, you should get your money >> back. >> >> >> >> I didn't talk to the guy who had the Mastr-II >> stations, since I was pretty >> sure they wouldn't work for me. >> >> >> >> From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of >> Camilo So >> >> >> >> Hi Mark; I won a GE MASTR II on Ebay item number >> 160239299000 for buy it now >> $300.00 plus $48.94 shipping and handling, then the >> seller N3OYQ send me a >> email that I have to pay $39.00 more for packing a >> total of $87.94 to zip >> code 33177, I try to bargain to a total of $65.00 >> but he never replay, I >> have a felling it was there for sale at Dayton, he >> was from Dayton,and I >> paid him $348.94 on Paypal. >> >> 73 >> >> W4CSO > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Sunday at Dayton - Part Deux
If they are 77 split mastr II's, it is likely to be difficult to retune up to the 440 band. But not impossible with modifications. far easier to tune an 88 split downwards. One item sometimes overlooked is the low pass filter in the output, which low split units might create problems. I'm glad my Mastr II UHF units are 88 split, including my 440 repeater. I hate Ebay sellers that try adding extras on after the fact, as much as I hate those that don't pack heavy items properly. Not to mention some that want high to ship a teeny item. Be leery of a seller who does not give any clue as to shipping costs. The Mastr II base unit by itself is very heavy. To move mine I may pull the parts out of the cabinet, base, power supply (even heavier) and duplexer... OTOH, not counting the packing, it was fairly reasonable to ship for its weight Oh yes, looking at this particular auction, it shows $51.47 for shipping to my loction. One thing I wonder about with this seller. Why does he use a seller ID that resembles a call sign but uses extra letters? And nothing like the call sign the buyer mentions? YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 18 May 2008 16:26:19 -0500, n9wys <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Don't forget to file a claim with both eBay and PayPal, explaining the > circumstances. Hopefully, you should get your money back. > > > I didn't talk to the guy who had the Mastr-II stations, since I was > pretty > sure they wouldn't work for me. > > > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com On Behalf Of Camilo So > > > > Hi Mark; I won a GE MASTR II on Ebay item number 160239299000 for buy it > now > $300.00 plus $48.94 shipping and handling, then the seller N3OYQ send me > a > email that I have to pay $39.00 more for packing a total of $87.94 to zip > code 33177, I try to bargain to a total of $65.00 but he never replay, I > have a felling it was there for sale at Dayton, he was from Dayton,and I > paid him $348.94 on Paypal. > > > 73 > > W4CSO > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: have fun
It said something about not keeping it. So I deleted it. people with fertile minds (full of manure, ha ha ha...)... Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 18 May 2008 12:02:18 -0500, Robert Pease <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > If I forward this will it help me have better luck with my midland > repeaters. I could really use it right about now!! > Otherwise I am not sure why this was sent to the list except by mistake > > > > Sent by Good Messaging (www.good.com) > > > -Original Message- > From: Maire-Radios [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] > Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 12:32 PM Eastern Standard Time > To: TampaGMRS; Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Fw: have fun > > > Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 12:11 PM > Subject: Fw: have fun > > > > > > You have 6 minutes > > > > snipped -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder]part 97.201 was Control Link
Why is it that it seems to be hard to locate the updated part 97.201 other than on the ARRL web site? I searched and searched but only came up with the older version till I searched on the ARRL site. At any rate, it does now allow one to use parts of two meter as control links. Arguing otherwise is futile, no matter how one looks at it. I would agree that it would be better to use a coordinated link when practical, plus best to use a link that is either at least 5 MHz away on say 70 centimeters, or on a different band, with good filtering on the RX to prevent problems from nearby strong signals. And using CTCSS helps prevent problems as well. For many, using a less commonly used tone might help. Also, by using a link frequency that was assigned, or at least coordinated gives one some degree of protection. Regarding using a receiver only at the repeater site, still means there is a transmitter to access said RX unit. So it still comes under control link. I have heard hams try to interpret the rules to say something other than what is in plain language. As an example, some tried to say that a repeater owner was resposible for any non legal talk or communications on his repeater, such as foul language. Not true, unless the owner or control operator does nothing to control it once said control is aware of the problem. This is as simple as shutting down the repeater at the time. Let us keep this to facts, not what was or what never was fact... YMMV Wayne WA2YNE 441.950TX 446.950RX CG Tone167.9 (Mine is a GE). On Sat, 17 May 2008 22:11:11 -0500, MCH <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > But the users at the control points transmit. In WPA, such links are > coordinated for a particular radius in which the station is > "coordinated". It helps assure that the receiver does not receive > interference from other such links. > > Joe M. > > Kris Kirby wrote: >> On Sat, 17 May 2008, Ron Wright wrote: >>> §97.213 Telecommand of an amateur station. If radio, the control >>> link must use an auxiliary station. >>> >>> This says it all. A control link for controlling a repeater by radio >>> is an auxiliary station. Also in 97.201 the freq coordination for Aux >>> stations follows similar to repeaters. If interference the >>> coordinated aux station has preference over non-coordinated. >> >> I really don't want to split hairs further, but there is a thought here >> that occurs to me -- the FCC does not require recievers to be licensed. >> >> If you are using the "control link" as a recieve-only radio... What >> coordination would be required? Is it an auxilary station? If the radio >> doesn't transmit >> >> -- >> Kris Kirby, KE4AHR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] coordination?
There are quite a few repeaters using club call signs rather than an individuals call sign. I used our club call sign on my first repeater, and am using my own on my repeater here. According to the application for coordination here in Texas, I will be the trustee of the repeater. However, it is not written in stone that a repeater _must_ be coordinated. But it is better in case of any possible conflict with another repeater to be coordinated. I will agree that the license for the call used must be valid at the time of operation, or it is in violation of the rules. Sometimes the rules can be confusing, and I have often seen them misinterpreted. And technically, any repeater has a trustee who is resposible for proper operation, etc... YMMV Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas 441.950TX 446.950RX Tone 167.9 On Thu, 15 May 2008 14:01:53 -0500, Paul Plack <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Guys, a "trustee" in FCC licensing terms is someone other than the > licensee who agrees to be responsible for the legal operation of a > transmitter. > > Back in the days when the FCC required a repeater to be licensed > separately with its own callsign, the person responsible for its > operation was a "trustee," because a club or other party was the > licensee. When they did away with separate repeater licenses, there was > no more need for trustees. > > If your callsign is on the repeater, you are the licensee, not the > trustee. > > Similarly, on Field Day, if a bunch of guys get together and use the > callsign of the group's only extra-class licensee as the station > callsign for everyone operating, the guy who holds that callsign is the > station licensee, not a trustee. If it's a club with a club callsign > separate from any of the individuals, then someone must be a trustee for > it. > > Are there any repeaters left using club callsigns? If so, those would be > the only repeaters which still have trustees. > > Paul, AE4KR > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Home-made ressonant cavities?
I have not tried building one myself, but there were numerous plans on the internet a couple of years back. I had thought to try making some using the large coffee cans. There were plans showing some made using PC board, square instead of round. You don't mention what band you want, but 2 meters and 70 centimeters should be fairly easy to make. I have found a number of duplexers for the 70 centimeter band on Ebay at various times. Some fairly reasonable. I have 3 sets that I am not yet using, though 2 of them would be for not more than about 50 watts, the other is a Micor 2 can unit, band pass, band reject. just thought, I recently saw one person selling parts for some duplexers, like the loops and connectors. But you need to make an adjustable sleeve setup to tune the cavity itself. Part of it was using finger stock. Note that some of the commercial units use a special metal for the tuning rods, that are supposed to be more stable than common parts. For 70 centimeters, one source would be old type mobile phones. As I said, lower power, not more than about 50 watts to the TX cans. One of mine was removed from an old motorla full duplex mobile phone. The rest of the unit was basically junk. It uses BNC connectors, okay at lower powers. best to use N connectors if you can, especially above 2 meters. Anyway, do some searching for duplexers, especially home brew. The data I have is on my lap top and not readily available right now, plus some on the drive in/from another computer not in use right now. <http://www.mhspot.com/radio/duplexer.htm> is one for the 440 band. There are others, but some searching will be necessary. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas On Thu, 15 May 2008 09:11:27 -0500, Alexandre Souza <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > Anyone into homemade ressonant cavities? These are hellish expensive > in > Brazil, I'd like to give a try on building one. Anyone experienced? Tips > you > want to share? > > Thanks > Alexandre Souza > PU1BZZ > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Times Microwave RT142 Cable - UPDATED
I got this cable on Ebay in maybe 2002 or 2003, don't recall exactly now. I don't recall the seller, and can't check readily now. Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 13 May 2008 19:45:16 -0500, Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Eric Lemmon wrote: >> Wayne, >> >> My contact at Times Microwave Systems advised me that "RT-142" is a >> triaxial >> cable in their "REMIT" specialty product line. The name refers to >> "Reduced >> Electro Magnetic Interference." Although Times does claim that "RT-142 >> is >> manufactured in accordance with the material requirements of MIL-C-17" >> it is >> not a QPL-listed product. Times will not mark the jacket unless >> specially >> requested by the customer. > > Isn't this the same stuff that a certain dealer who advertises here from > time to time really had, when he thought he had RG-400, and then > e-mailed all of us who'd mailed checks to say it was RT-142 or similar? > > Anyone else have that happen? > > Oh well... two phone calls, multiple e-mails and I never got any cable > (which I didn't really want after it was found it wasn't RG-400) or a > check back... > > I gave up. > > Wrote it off as "never do business there again", even though the person > has a decent reputation on this list. > > I won't say who, as I really don't want to deal with the flame-fest. It > was the only order of anything I got hosed on all of last year and the > year before, so I'll chalk it up to "experience" and move on. > > If someone wants to know who it was off-list, feel free to e-mail. I > figure he just got caught between a rock and a hard place, and having > dealers willing to sell/stock old stuff here on the list, is worth more > to me than worrying about one mistake, really. > > I'm mostly just curious if that's where you got it? > > Nate WY0X -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Times Microwave RT142 Cable - UPDATED
I did make one jumper using some RT142, with an RCA on one end, and an N on the other. Seemed to work okay. I still have that cable, I think, don't recall for sure. I used it with a Mastr II base from the RX port to a duplexer can. I did trim the insulation between the two shields so both layers were common at the nds. Would be nice to use some between the duplexer Tee and either a PolyPhaer or direct to 7/8" hardline. Desiring to keep as short as practical to keep losses down at 442 MHz. I hate trying to use junk cable. The duplexer has what looks to be RG142 for its jumpers. I bought the cable thinking it was the same as RG142. Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 12 May 2008 22:20:14 -0500, Eric Lemmon <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > My contact at Times Microwave Systems advised me that "RT-142" is a > triaxial > cable in their "REMIT" specialty product line. The name refers to > "Reduced > Electro Magnetic Interference." Although Times does claim that "RT-142 > is > manufactured in accordance with the material requirements of MIL-C-17" > it is > not a QPL-listed product. Times will not mark the jacket unless > specially > requested by the customer. Here are the specs from the REMIT catalog > page: > > Inner Conductor - 0.039" SCCS > Dielectric OD - 0.116" > Dielectric Material - Not specified > Shield Braids - SC > Shield Coverage - Not specified > Jacket Material - FEP > Jacket OD - 0.215" > Nominal Impedance - 50 ohms > Nominal Capacitance - 29.4 pF/ft > Max Operating Voltage - 1,900 VRMS > Max Attenuation at 400 MHz - 9.0 dB/100 ft > Velocity of Propagation - Not specified > > If this cable is used in place of double-shielded coaxial cable such as > RG-400, the insulating barrier should be trimmed back from the connector > clamping or crimping area, so that there is positive metal-to-metal > contact > between the shields at both ends of the jumper. Care must be taken to > select connectors that fit the dielectric without slop; otherwise, a > significant "impedance bump" will occur at the cable/connector interface. > > 73, Eric Lemmon WB6FLY > > -Original Message- > From: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Wayne > Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 8:34 PM > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Best coax for short jumpers in repeater > cabinet? > > I have some cable that I cannot find the true information for. > it is labeled as follows: > 68999, TIMES MICROWAVE SYSTEMS, RT142 > It is not listed, at least not readily seen, on the Times microwave web > site. > It appears to be a version of RG142. > It is tan outer cover > Double shielded, high density silvered (or tinned) with insulation > between teh two shields.. > clear solid inner insulation, and stiff solid center conductor. > I bought it to use as RG142 for jumpers. > It looks virtually the same as some labeled RG142 that came with a > Micor > UHF duplexer, though less flexible than the RG142 seems to be. > I now wonder if it is interchangeabe or not? > I have never seen any cable labeled RT instead of RG... > > Wayne WA2YNE > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without Separate Antenna
Size 14 would be better, or even 16. Never could figure out why people use such teeny font sizes. maybe they want to slip some "fine print" by us? Ha ha ha.. Wayne WA2YNE 69 and still learning... On Mon, 12 May 2008 16:56:18 -0500, John J. Riddell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Hey Ron,How about setting your Font back to at least 10 for all the > senior citizens who like to read your stuff :-)) > > 73 John VE3AMZ > - Original Message - > From: Ron Wright > To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com > Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:34 AM > Subject: RE: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without > Separate Antenna > > > I would recommend not using a 12.5 kHz spacing freq in this case of a > control receiever, a receiver that is only 12.5 kHz away from your > regular repeater input. > > > With typical good FM analog receivers these would both have > overlapping passbands and an input signal on the repeater input would > interfer with the control input. With som many using IC type DTMF > decoders any interference, just over lapping distorted voice would > hender the decoder decoding. > > > A typical UHF duplexer would have a notch wide enough for a freq +/-25 > kHz away. Know this is going to be another repeaters input, but with > some research could find is close in distance to you. > > > I have used control UHF freq that are 6.25 kHz spacing, but these were > in the 446 range and on separate antenna. Just had access to this. I > used this freq to give some added security. > > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > > > Ron Wright, N9EE > > > 727-376-6575 > > > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > > > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > > > No tone, all are welcome. > > > > > > > > > On Sun, May 11, 2008 at 10:24 PM, Laryn Lohman wrote: > > > --- In Repeater-Builder@ yahoogroups. com, "John Transue" <[EMAIL > PROTECTED] > .> > wrote: > > > > Laryn K8TVZ, > > > > So, if I understand, I should put a splitter after the pre-amp, and > > the control frequency should be a split channel. Does this mean that > I > > use half way between two channels? > > > Right, one of the 12.5 kc. in-between channels would be less likely to > have something on them. > > > > > > Another question, who makes a good splitter, and how can I know I > am > > getting a good splitter? > > > Well, I've seen 50 ohm splitters quite often at hamfests. I don't > have a good brand name to point you to. I am, however, using a 75 ohm > TV splitter. Purists will hate this, but especially, if you are after > a preamp, I don't see this as a big deal. It works just fine here > with no measured loss in repeater receiver sensitivity through the > system. Use quality coax and fittings. I've found that RG142 works > reasonably well with the TV splitters since it has a solid center > conductor. > > > If you are not using a preamp, then you really need to do things > right, using a proper splitter, and still you may lose some > sensitivity. > > > Some of you are saying, where's the quality in that splitter scheme? > Well, experimentally I've found it works well here, so after initial > measurements showed me that things were still the same, I'll tend to > stay with what works, but ready to ditch the whole thing if needed and > go another route. Sometimes takes the form of performance, > not looks or perfection. If system sensitivity had suffered it > wouldn't be there for more than 15 minutes. > > > Laryn K8TVZ > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without Separate Antenna
The only place it starts getting that high is over at the Gualdalupe peaks and up in New Mexico. Mostly low hills between here and Lubbock, where the repeater that is 25 KHz above my freuency is located. 25 down is much closer, though I can't find the CTCSS tone for it. I could use a Delta SX for the RX, have several, and hopefully will program okay (They used an odd split as I recall in the programming I did check. Should even be able to power it from the repeaters power supply. Anyway, will do what I need to once I get a few things settled... Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 12 May 2008 14:53:15 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > If your repeater situation is like most, antenna not on 5000 ft > mountain, a repeater 165 miles away would not be a problem for you. The > users of it would be the interferring parties, but at 165 miles don't > think a problem. > > I would simply chose a freq 25 kHz away for the control receiver, T off > the receive side of the duplexer, CTCSS or PL the control rcvr and > connects its output to the control input of the controller. > > Things on the ground are typically cheap and easy to come by. Things in > the air is what gets you. > > If you have a 2 meter repeater at same site could also use this same UHF > receiver for its control also. > > 73, ron, n9ee/r > > > > Ron Wright, N9EE > > 727-376-6575 > > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > > No tone, all are welcome. > > > > > > > On Mon, May 12, 2008 at 2:29 PM, Wayne wrote: > >> While that might work okay, here they have frequencies close to the >> repeater RX frequencies I might use marked as one way links or >> repeater inputs. >> My thought would be using a diplexer of some kind. >> Of course, I also thought of a diplexer to use the antenna for a low >> level 2 meter repeater as well as for 70 centimers (repeater and >> control rx). >> I have a GE Phoenix with the RR split (It doesn't like coming up >> much above 44 or 441 MHz) that could work as a control RX >> 440 repeaters here are on a 25 KHz split, and the only band plan >> shown does not include 420 to 440 MHz. My other option would be 25 >> KHz up, and there is a repeater on that frequecy about 165 miles >> north. >> OTOH, a separate RX antenna would not be a real problem, and I could >> put a filter on it. >> >> Wayne WA2YNE >> >> >> On Sun, 11 May 2008 17:39:55 -0500, Laryn Lohman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> wrote: >> >>> --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "John Transue" >>> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >>> wrote: >>>> >>>> I would like to add a control receiver to a UHF (446 MHz) repeater. >>> >>> If you can use a frequency for control that is within several >>> channels >>> of your input, you can split the receive coax from your duplexer to >>> each receiver. Use a split channel for control if possible. If you >>> use a preamp and split the output properly you'll experience no loss >>> in sensitivity to your repeater receiver. It works great here. >>> >>> Laryn K8TVZ >>> >>> >> >> >> >> -- >> Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ >> >> >> >> >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Adding Control Receiver without Separate Antenna
While that might work okay, here they have frequencies close to the repeater RX frequencies I might use marked as one way links or repeater inputs. My thought would be using a diplexer of some kind. Of course, I also thought of a diplexer to use the antenna for a low level 2 meter repeater as well as for 70 centimers (repeater and control rx). I have a GE Phoenix with the RR split (It doesn't like coming up much above 44 or 441 MHz) that could work as a control RX 440 repeaters here are on a 25 KHz split, and the only band plan shown does not include 420 to 440 MHz. My other option would be 25 KHz up, and there is a repeater on that frequecy about 165 miles north. OTOH, a separate RX antenna would not be a real problem, and I could put a filter on it. Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 11 May 2008 17:39:55 -0500, Laryn Lohman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "John Transue" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > wrote: >> >> I would like to add a control receiver to a UHF (446 MHz) repeater. > > If you can use a frequency for control that is within several channels > of your input, you can split the receive coax from your duplexer to > each receiver. Use a split channel for control if possible. If you > use a preamp and split the output properly you'll experience no loss > in sensitivity to your repeater receiver. It works great here. > > Laryn K8TVZ > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Best coax for short jumpers in repeater cabinet?
I have some cable that I cannot find the true information for. it is labeled as follows: 68999, TIMES MICROWAVE SYSTEMS, RT142 It is not listed, at least not readily seen, on the Times microwave web site. It appears to be a version of RG142. It is tan outer cover Double shielded, high density silvered (or tinned) with insulation between teh two shields.. clear solid inner insulation, and stiff solid center conductor. I bought it to use as RG142 for jumpers. It looks virtually the same as some labeled RG142 that came with a Micor UHF duplexer, though less flexible than the RG142 seems to be. I now wonder if it is interchangeabe or not? I have never seen any cable labeled RT instead of RG... Wayne WA2YNE On Fri, 09 May 2008 22:37:00 -0500, Laryn Lohman <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > RG400, RG214, Superflex and RG142 if handled carefully/infrequently, > and others, are good inside the cabinet. > > Some seem to be concerned about the larger vs. smaller cables, > implying less vs. more loss. Generally these jumpers are so short > it's not an issue. Perhaps it starts to be at 900 mc. and above, > however. Moving to something like 1/2" Superflex would help there. > > Laryn K8TVZ > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re:Duplexer Desense Problem - Mystery
this brings up a couple of questions. first, what type of transmitter were you using. Second, how well was it shielded? A Mastr II station would not be as likely to come up with such a problem as long as the normal shielding was not defeated. I can't comment on batwing stations, as I am not that familiar with those. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Fri, 09 May 2008 08:29:05 -0500, Certified Software Solutions <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I had a situation where My controller had a 600 khz crystal in it and it > would > add 600khz to my output frequency . I was transmitting on 444.375, but I > was > throwing a "spur" on 444.975. It was pretty strong. You could hear it > for about > 10 miles. I changed the controller and my problem went away. > N5MWM > > > _ -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
[Repeater-Builder] Re: Best coax for short jumpers in repeater cabinet?
Without looking at the rest of the replies, I will comment here on the cable you have. replace that LMR400 with heliax. LDF4050A or better, LDF5-50A or equivalent You can get a good eal on Heliax and connectors from: <http://www.surpluscoax.com/index.html> The LDF5-50A is $2.55 per foot, less than 1/2 of the usual price for this cable, and their shipping charges are reasonable. Buy cable and connectors at the same time, and buy the correct connectors for the cable you buy. This alone will actually help on the receive, not to mention the transmit. Add a better antenna as well. I have not heard from them yet, but I may wind up helping the local VFD here get their system on the air. Not sure what they have in the vehicles, but the main base unit is an MTR2000 Motorla, and the tower is about 85 feet high (27 meters according to the information on the FCC web site). But not sure about the antennas or coax being used yet either. I will not look too deep till I know more. the use of cables like LMR400 is frowned on for repeater use, and may not do as well as even 1/2" Heliax can do. the 7/8" Heliax would be far better. I have 7/8" Heliax for use with my 440 repeater, and figure it will help me to have decent range, even though I won't have the antenna very high for the time being. in the cabinet, as others have mentioned, use a good double shieleded coax like RG142, RG214 or similar. Even tyhere, avoid the stuff with foil and braid mixed. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE --- In Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com, "jstechnicalservice" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > Thanks, Ron > Here is more information on what we have. The HAAT is 122ft., we > currently have a Maxrad MFB-1503 3db antenna and LMR400 coax. We are > using a ST2 Midland at 110W and there is some type of older pre-amp > installed with no tag, but has 6db hand written on it. Any > suggestions for improvement will be appreciated but we do have a > limited budget, especially with the impending rebanding. We want the > high-band repeater in place for backup when this happens and also as > our primary for the time being. > > > >
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Duplexer Desense Problem - Mystery
if you are using the same wires from the cans to the tees, about all I can suggest is maybe retuning the duplexers while connected to the antenna. Also check and recheck each section of cable between the cans, etc... Not saying this will be the answer, but at this point you seem to have little to lose by trying it. Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 08 May 2008 09:50:27 -0500, blisswheeler <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > I've run into a problem that baffles me. > > I have two sets of WACOM WP-641 4 can Duplexers. They have been tuned > to TX on 146.96 mHz and RX on 146.36. One set was tuned in a > Professional Lab, the other I tuned myself. They tune very well with > excellent rejection ~90db. When I duplex into a dummy load running > 100W, I can inject a signal with an iso-tee and there is vertually > zero desense to the receiver. When I hook it to an antenna it > instantly experiences 30db of receiver desense. I can lower the power > to 3 watts or less and still have 20db desense. I have a GE Mastr II > repeater, but I've used a separate Transmitter and receiver and > experience the same results. > > I'm using double shielded RG214 for testing. I've also used 1/2" > heliax for testing from the duplexer to the antenna. I've used 3 > different antennas. 2 different colinear and a j-pole. The antennas > all have less than a watt reflected out of 65W forward. I've used > separate antennas on the TX and RX Cans with the same results. When I > terminate either TX or RX into the dummy load the desense disappears. > It appears that when the reactive component is introduced everything > goes to pot. > > It doesn't make any sense to me. Any Ideas? I'm stumpted.. :-( > > Thanks, > Bliss > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna question - Dip It and Scotch Kote and Krylon
This topic reminds me, a friend said he painted his copper J Pole, and it never worked after that. The type of paint, and other factors determine what is and what is not safe to use on an antenna. The only thing I have done is used a tad of NoAlox in joints on antennas. Years ago, I did cover the base of the connector on a Ringo antenna with some Silicone sealer. I don't know if it was from that or something else, but when I moved the antenna later, I was never able to get it to work right again. Now I am leery about using items on antennas that were not made for such types of items. I do have some sealing kits to use on my Heliax connectors, but the kits are from Andrew, and consist of a sealer similar to the coax seal, and some plastic tape that goes over that. The only other thing I have used has been a bit of silicone grease in some spots, and always taped exposed coax connectors with at least two layers of tape. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 04 May 2008 08:52:31 -0500, Chuck Kelsey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Funny you should mention Krylon... although I haven't done so in recent > years, I used to Krylon (clear) all antennas and never had a problem. I > forgot all about that until your mention of it. And they were mostly UHF > antennas - beams and folded dipoles. Go figure. > > Chuck > WB2EDV > > > > - Original Message - > From: "skipp025" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Sent: Sunday, May 04, 2008 9:44 AM > Subject: [Repeater-Builder] Re: antenna question - Dip It and Scotch Kote > > >> I constructed a 6 meter beam some years back, worked like a bomb >> even at 25ft above ground elevation. To ensure my pride and joy >> would last a long time I sprayed it with clear Krylon brand spray >> paint. >> >> The antenna was instantly unusable regardless of my efforts to >> remove the paint, re-tune or otherwise modify the antenna. I later >> learned that type of paint contained materials with a horible >> D-Factor. I was never able to use the antenna again, although it >> remains in my back yard as a reminder. >> >> cheers, >> s. >> -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] TPN1110B Weight?
My 30" Mastr II repeater is no lightweight. I think it weighs more than I do, ha ha ha. it's all that sturdy metal shielding and transformers and things... YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:22:16 -0500, Kris Kirby <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > On Tue, 29 Apr 2008, Ron Wright wrote: >> I'd say 20-25 lb before shipping packing. > > Thanks, I almost defecated masonry when I looked in the book and saw > that the Micor Station weighs at least 2/3rds what I do. > > -- > Kris Kirby, KE4AHR <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > But remember, with no superpowers comes no responsibility. > --rly -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Must be that because splices were/are very seldom used, the prices are astronomical. I will wait, for now, till I see what the future will bring me. By splicing only where the cable can be well supported on both sides of the splice, I would anticipate no problems using what I have. And at least two of the connectors I have will be used with the heliax, so can't sell em all... Wayne WA2YNE On Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:17:39 -0500, Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > On Apr 25, 2008, at 11:35 PM, Wayne wrote: > >> Did some searching, and it looks like splices would run maybe twice >> or >> more the cost of one male and one female. > > Yup. This probably falls into the category of "you get what you pay > for" when compared to regular connectors. > >> As it is, I have 4 male N connectors for the 7/8" and one female. > > Sell them, take the proceeds plus $100 and you have enough for the > splice connector? :-) > > -- > Nate Duehr, WY0X > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Repeater Power Amplifier sent in a paper bag
I have had a few things packed in very poor ways. One seller packed a mastr II mobile in such a poor way that some of the heat sink fins were damaged. However, the seller did send me a second unit, sans exciter. Another seller put a Mastr II E case in a huge oversized box with nothing more that a bunch of peanuts. Front of case damaged, and parts of the heatsink damaged. Never did get any satisfaction from that anal seller. He wanted to blame it on UPS. OTOH, my repeater, a 30" Mastr II base, was well packed on a small custom pallet, and there was no damage at all from the shipping outfit. And I even got help loading it into my vehicle after I removed it from the pallet. I forget the name of the trucking company, but it is the one that is used be many Ebay sellers for large heavy items. But a plain brown paper bag? Is the seller a real horses differential, or just plain totally witless? Wayne WA2YNE On Fri, 25 Apr 2008 22:58:54 -0500, John Gleichweit <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > There's a thread in one of the vintage stereo groups about problems with > shipping companies and their not honoring damage claims. UPS and FedEx > seem to be the worst, with DHL better than the two. > > I had one shipper who literally threw about 50# worth of assorted radios > and parts into a thin single-wall corrugated box, wrapped with a bunch > of clear packing tape. About half of the radios were broken , and one > was in such a bad shape that I really can't do much with it besides let > it sit on the shelf. > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
I could put the splice in a section of PVC large enough for the connectors, depending on the situation. I was looking at the cables on the local fire departments tower, and what a mess. Cables held in place with chunks of baling wire. One piece of cable flopping around in the wind, and no idea as to where it was connected. There are an odd assorment of antennas up there, including 2 4 bay folded dipole assemblies. I am joining the Volunteer fire department with an eye to helping with communications and other things that I can manage. One interesting item, only saw it through a shed window, is a, MTR2000 and a set of duplexer cans. Hmm, I still have my good old standard Motorola key... It will be a while before I know what I will or won't be allowed to do. Another project may be finding out if the siren on the tower can be repaired or not. Could be something simple. That could be top priority. The tower itself is 27 meters tall according to the info on the FCC web site. maybe 85 feet, give or take... If I were to get permission to put my repeater there, and the antenna on the side of the tower, I would not be cutting the Heliax other than needed there. But would be sure to get something better than baling wire to hold it in place, ha ha ha... Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 09:25:29 -0500, Ralph Messer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne > > If you use the "N" male female splice you might want to look at how much > flexing the cable will get. > > If this cable is "7/8" inch then the flex on the joint can be > catastrophic, especially if it is somewhere on a tower. > > I would suggest a pair of EIA flanges to make a good mechanically strong > splice. > Andrew part numbers are L45R > > Ralph > - Original Message - > From: Ron Wright<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 8:54 AM > Subject: Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter > > > Wayne, > > One issue on the connectors for reconnecting coax. > > Many make back to back type connectors for this. They are essentially > the back end of 2 connectors joined as one piece/connector. Mostly used > where a long feedline cannot be placed on one spool and must be joined > or for other applications needing a spice. > > Would have lower loss and cost less than two connectors. More reliable > also. > > 73, ron, nn9ee/r > > >From: Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:wa2yne%40gmail.com>> > >Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:21:01 CDT > >To: > Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Repeater-Builder%40yahoogroups.com> > >Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter > > > Thanks, I had no way of knowing that. Tells me the connectors are > good > >parts. > > The 4 Heliax connectors I bought with the cable are Andrew > connectors. > > I'm wondering when the Andrew web site will be back up. Is it based > in > >taiwan? I know they had problems there due to a major quake that shut > many > >things down. > > I have a fairly good assortment on other N connectors, various brands > >that don't give me a real clue as to what cables they were actually > made > >for use with. > > Some I can usually simply use with whatever size cable jacket fits > >through the gland nut... > > I should post a few part nubers and brands later. > > > > Wayne WA2YNE > > > >On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:39:48 -0500, Glenn Little WB4UIV > ><[EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:glennmaillist%40bellsouth.net>> > wrote: > > > >> The number before UG-1185/U is a cage code. This identifies who > >> manufactured the > >> item. > >> > >> In this case: > >> > >> AMPHENOL AEROSPACE - RF MICROWAVE CONNECTOR OPERATIONS > >> ONE KENNEDY AVENUE > >> DANBURY, CT 06810 > >> Cage Code: 74868 > >> Tel.: 1-800-627-7100 > >> > >> It is a marked Amphenol connector. > >> > >> 73 > >> Glenn > >> WB4UIV > >> > >> > >> > >> At 02:30 AM 4/24/2008, Wayne wrote: > >> > >> Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the > RG214 > >> jumper. > >> Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them > as > >> such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U > Seems to > >> be good qualit
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Did some searching, and it looks like splices would run maybe twice or more the cost of one male and one female. I found about $30 or so, maybe more, I forget, just for the inner part, and the only "shell" I found by itself was out of sight. A splice for larger Heliax seems to be around $129.00. As it is, I have 4 male N connectors for the 7/8" and one female. Figure I will never need all of them, being as I have them. If I did not have at least one more than I figured, I would wind up needing to find another one. Murphy's Law seems to work that way. Like those end caps for PVC pipe. I always wind up not having enough of them unless I buy the big package, which Home Despot never has when I need to buy them. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Thu, 24 Apr 2008 07:54:30 -0500, Ron Wright <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne, > > One issue on the connectors for reconnecting coax. > > Many make back to back type connectors for this. They are essentially > the back end of 2 connectors joined as one piece/connector. Mostly used > where a long feedline cannot be placed on one spool and must be joined > or for other applications needing a spice. > > Would have lower loss and cost less than two connectors. More reliable > also. > > 73, ron, nn9ee/r > > > > > >> From: Wayne <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Date: 2008/04/24 Thu PM 10:21:01 CDT >> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter > >> Thanks, I had no way of knowing that. Tells me the connectors are good >> parts. >> The 4 Heliax connectors I bought with the cable are Andrew connectors. >> I'm wondering when the Andrew web site will be back up. Is it based in >> taiwan? I know they had problems there due to a major quake that shut >> many >> things down. >> I have a fairly good assortment on other N connectors, various brands >> that don't give me a real clue as to what cables they were actually made >> for use with. >> Some I can usually simply use with whatever size cable jacket fits >> through the gland nut... >> I should post a few part nubers and brands later. >> >> Wayne WA2YNE >> >> On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:39:48 -0500, Glenn Little WB4UIV >> <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: >> >>> The number before UG-1185/U is a cage code. This identifies who >>> manufactured the >>> item. >>> >>> In this case: >>> >>> AMPHENOL AEROSPACE - RF MICROWAVE CONNECTOR OPERATIONS >>> ONE KENNEDY AVENUE >>> DANBURY, CT 06810 >>> Cage Code: 74868 >>> Tel.: 1-800-627-7100 >>> >>> It is a marked Amphenol connector. >>> >>> 73 >>> Glenn >>> WB4UIV >>> >>> >>> >>> At 02:30 AM 4/24/2008, Wayne wrote: >>> >>> Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the >>> RG214 >>> jumper. >>> Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them as >>> such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U Seems >>> to >>> be good quality. >>> No leakage that I can tell, and zero resistance from one end to the >>> other, so should be good to go. >>> >>> Wayne WA2YNE >>> >>> >> -- >> Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ >> >> >> >> >> >> Yahoo! Groups Links >> >> >> > > Ron Wright, N9EE > 727-376-6575 > MICRO COMPUTER CONCEPTS > Owner 146.64 repeater Tampa Bay, FL > No tone, all are welcome. > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
UInless I wind up being able to put mine at the volunteer fire station, it will be here at my home. Three dogs here at night who will make a racket, not to mention a nice 40 caliber magnum revolver. Legal enough as long as I don't carry it concealed. More freedom here in Pecos County... Wayne WA2YNE Imperial, Tejas... 441.950 TX 446.950 RX 167.9 On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:15:58 -0500, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Here in Texas you can use deadly force to protect your property, day or > night. Might be a good idea to move to the site for security with as big > a weapon you can handle. > > > David > - -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Thanks, I had no way of knowing that. Tells me the connectors are good parts. The 4 Heliax connectors I bought with the cable are Andrew connectors. I'm wondering when the Andrew web site will be back up. Is it based in taiwan? I know they had problems there due to a major quake that shut many things down. I have a fairly good assortment on other N connectors, various brands that don't give me a real clue as to what cables they were actually made for use with. Some I can usually simply use with whatever size cable jacket fits through the gland nut... I should post a few part nubers and brands later. Wayne WA2YNE On Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:39:48 -0500, Glenn Little WB4UIV <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > The number before UG-1185/U is a cage code. This identifies who > manufactured the > item. > > In this case: > > AMPHENOL AEROSPACE - RF MICROWAVE CONNECTOR OPERATIONS > ONE KENNEDY AVENUE > DANBURY, CT 06810 > Cage Code: 74868 > Tel.: 1-800-627-7100 > > It is a marked Amphenol connector. > > 73 > Glenn > WB4UIV > > > > At 02:30 AM 4/24/2008, Wayne wrote: > > Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the RG214 > jumper. > Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them as > such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U Seems to > be good quality. > No leakage that I can tell, and zero resistance from one end to the > other, so should be good to go. > > Wayne WA2YNE > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: More on Copper theft
having received a couple of small RF burns, I can attest that they do hurt. A big burn would be very painful indeed. 48KW? Akin to maybe the old Chair at Sing Sing? I don't wanna be near that... Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:36:37 -0500, Mike Besemer (WM4B) <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > http://radioinsight.com/boards/index.php?t=msg > <http://radioinsight.com/boards/index.php?t=msg&goto=58094&rid=0&S=67a57780f > 5f76038ba7ec84fc7e17077#msg_58094> > &goto=58094&rid=0&S=67a57780f5f76038ba7ec84fc7e17077#msg_58094 > > > From what I understand, they took an ax to the feedline and collected up > the > pieces, along with whatever else they could carry. > > > This is a 48 KW ERP radio station. I wonder if the RF burns hurt?! > > > Mike > > WM4B > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft
I have a 401 Magnum revolver. Only bullets I could find for it were made for the old 38/40, which are .400 diameter, 3/4 jacket flat nose. Used to have a 45 ACP that had full jacketed bullets. Many bullets semi or full jacketed, some plain lead. No matter how you look at it, can do some hurt... I have a guy here that i wonder about. He may get some of the wire he salvages from abandonded houses, but some I wonder. He had some cable that he was trying to figure out how to strip the wire. I looked at it, the ding bat didn't know it was fiber optic cable, no metal at all I don't ever want to catch him messing with any of my wire. Texas is a lot more lenient on who one is allowed to shoot. Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 14:04:04 -0500, George Henry <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > -Original Message- >> From: DCFluX <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> >> Sent: Apr 22, 2008 10:31 AM >> To: Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com >> Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] More on Copper theft >> >> Most bullets these days are made of copper. >> > > > Perfect! > > He wants copper, we'll give him copper.. although buckshot hurts > more! > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Cannot see any braid without undoing one of the N connectors on the RG214 jumper. Connectors are evidently not Amphenol, unless they didn't mark them as such. The cable says RG214/U. Connectors marked 74868 UG-1185/U Seems to be good quality. No leakage that I can tell, and zero resistance from one end to the other, so should be good to go. Wayne WA2YNE On Tue, 22 Apr 2008 10:36:32 -0500, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > At 4/23/2008 00:45, you wrote: >> Okay, at this point, I have the following: >> 100 feet of LD5-50A >> 1 Female 'N' connector for same >> 3 male 'N' connectors for same, plus an additional male 'N' from >> another >> source. All for the LDF5050A cable >> At antenna, a 3 or 4 foot 1/2" Heliax jumper, as the connectors for >> the >> 7/8" Heliax are a tad too large to fit the antenna base. >> Antenna on a 23' tower, and about 21 feet up to the end of the jumper, >> which will be used with some bow to allow for possible movement and >> being >> able to clamp the 7/8" to the tower so it won't pull on the jumper at >> all. >> I also have a bulkhead mount Polyphaser which I could, for the time >> being, install at the repeater itself and use a jumper there that is >> RG214, currently between two cans on a 2 meter duplexer. Two foot, long >> enough to exit the bottome of the repeater cabinet and connect to >> polyphaser. I figure about 30-35 feet of the Heliax to get to that >> point, >> and allow a bit of slack in the RG214. > > Just make sure the RG-214 is silver-plated. I had a jumper I used this > weekend for a 2 meter repeater installation that said "Intercomp RG-214" > that caused desense when I flexed it, so I replaced it. When I got home > I > took a close look at one of the connectors & could make out a couple of > COPPER braid strands. That jumper got the colored tape band applied to > the > middle, my indicator that it's "no good for duplex". > > Bob NO6B > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Use of the antenna could be considered theft of services IMO. Theft of services covers a number of things. Not sure what the 240 volts would do, maybe burn out loops in the duplexers being used, if it managed that before kicking the circuit breaker. Possible melt some of that teeny coax the moron was using, ha ha ha... Besides, I thought the offenders cabinet went over the side??? Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 18:08:47 -0500, Larry Wagoner <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > At 05:43 PM 4/21/2008, you wrote: >> I would think the one using the cable is the one who cut it. > > Or at the very least is responsible - given that that person's > equipment is connected. > One cannot claim ignorance at a certain point ... > And it is the CUTTING of the hardline that is the criminal damage, > not the use of the antenna. > > Finally ... if nothing else - how about feeding some 240 AC down the > line from the splice point to the offender's equipment. > > Larry > N5WLW > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Okay, at this point, I have the following: 100 feet of LD5-50A 1 Female 'N' connector for same 3 male 'N' connectors for same, plus an additional male 'N' from another source. All for the LDF5050A cable At antenna, a 3 or 4 foot 1/2" Heliax jumper, as the connectors for the 7/8" Heliax are a tad too large to fit the antenna base. Antenna on a 23' tower, and about 21 feet up to the end of the jumper, which will be used with some bow to allow for possible movement and being able to clamp the 7/8" to the tower so it won't pull on the jumper at all. I also have a bulkhead mount Polyphaser which I could, for the time being, install at the repeater itself and use a jumper there that is RG214, currently between two cans on a 2 meter duplexer. Two foot, long enough to exit the bottome of the repeater cabinet and connect to polyphaser. I figure about 30-35 feet of the Heliax to get to that point, and allow a bit of slack in the RG214. it would be simple to use one male and one female 'N' connectors to splice the Heliax if I move things later on. Some of these connectors might be harder to get later on, and at a maybe higher cost that I got them for. Low calorie budget from here on, spent too much on the rep[eater already. YMMV Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 15:09:35 -0500, Nate Duehr <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne wrote: >> Looking at the pictures gives me a couple of ideas. >> first is that the person who cut the heliax must be really dense to >> think >> he could get away with it. All one needs to do is trace that other coax >> to >> wherever. Plus it might be possible to lift fingerprints from the >> heliax. > > CSI: Radio Towers -- Coming soon to CBS! > > (We already tried CSI: Cedar Rapids but it didn't do well with the > audiences -- they fell asleep.) > > Maybe Kevin or Scott could be called in as "expert witness" special > guest stars? > > And of course, all radio sites will have to be dark, so even mid-day the > investigators will have to look around with powerful flashlights to find > that "one clue they missed at the scene when they were there two days > ago". > > LOL! > >> Second, looks like the Heliax could be spliced back together with >> proper >> connector(s), but would be a job and a bit of a bump in loss? > > Amphenol actually does make a (relatively expensive) hardline splicing > kit. Works well, according to the club techs who had to use one once on > one of our runs of 7/8 that was damaged. > >> I actually have a question here about loss. What would be the loss in >> one >> male and one female 7/8" N connector for Heliax? My thought is with the >> idea of possibly moving my antenna in the future, if I can eventually >> manage a taller tower. > > If you can't do new feedline for the whole run, get a splicing kit and > not connectors. > > Better yet, consider it part of the "cost of moving" and don't move if > you can't replace the line. That'd be my "take" on it. > > Build to commercial standards, or don't build... you'll only be back > later fixing it... like anything else "hammy" I've ever seen/dealt with. > > But we all here understand the reality of budgets, or lack thereof... > (sigh)... > > Nate WY0X -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
For the record, the Andrews web site seems to still be down. Means all info I fiond is from other web sites, vendors, etc... Also, it seems that Andrews has discontinued a couple of types of Heliax, including what I have. One person came up with them only making it with aluminum outer shield. Not true, they are making both aluminum and copper types... Still looking for info on connectors and loss. If anyone has the andrews catalog in pdf, would it be possible to either email it or upload it somewhere so others of us could obtain it? Thanks... Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:31:08 -0500, Ralph Messer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne > > If you have access to a Andrew catalog number 37 Look on page 588 > bottom right of the page I think this will answer your question > > Ralph Messer > [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > ----- Original Message - > From: Wayne<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter
Sorry, I don't have an Andrews catalog other than what can be found online. That is a bit of information that is not often mentioned, the insertion loss for various connectors, etc... Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:31:08 -0500, Ralph Messer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > Wayne > > If you have access to a Andrew catalog number 37 Look on page 588 > bottom right of the page I think this will answer your question > > Ralph Messer > [EMAIL PROTECTED]<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > ----- Original Message - > From: Wayne<mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: > Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com<mailto:Repeater-Builder@yahoogroups.com> > Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 3:00 PM > Subject: Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Bad adapter > > > Looking at the pictures gives me a couple of ideas. > first is that the person who cut the heliax must be really dense to > think > he could get away with it. All one needs to do is trace that other > coax to > wherever. Plus it might be possible to lift fingerprints from the > heliax. > Second, looks like the Heliax could be spliced back together with > proper > connector(s), but would be a job and a bit of a bump in loss? > I actually have a question here about loss. What would be the loss > in one > male and one female 7/8" N connector for Heliax? My thought is with the > idea of possibly moving my antenna in the future, if I can eventually > manage a taller tower. > I see all kinds of loss calculators for cables themselves, but no > mentions of same for assorted connectors. > YMMV > > Wayne WA2YNE > > > -- > Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: > http://www.opera.com/mail/<http://www.opera.com/mail/> > > > > > > Yahoo! Groups Links > > > -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Re: [Repeater-Builder] Re: Hijack (WAS: Bad adapter)
Would be better to catch the person in the act and then use a Burdizzo on him, ha ha ha... Or maybe put a band on him like I did with my former buckling. Then toss him over the edge into a stand of Mesquite Yes, I can think of some things to get even... Wayne WA2YNE On Mon, 21 Apr 2008 09:55:26 -0500, n9wys <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > And most likely a violation of federal statutes for disrupting the > communications system (Jeff's)... > > But other than targeting the club/company that owns the "offending" > station > (the one that the RG-58 was connected to) you'd be hard pressed to charge > any individual... because in most cases, you have to prove criminal > intent > on the part of the individual. And without evidence indicating WHO cut > the > coax and soldered on the RG-58, I don't think there's a District > Attorney > or State's Attorney who'd touch that case. (I'd think that there's > nobody > THAT stupid as to come forth and say, "Yep, I did it.") > > Now if it became a regular occurrence, I'd be inclined to install an ATV > camera/videotape recorder and monitor my equipment... to protect my > assets > AND enhance the possibility of prosecution. (Of course with the > requisite > signage...) > > Mark - N9WYS -- Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/ Yahoo! Groups Links <*> To visit your group on the web, go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/ <*> Your email settings: Individual Email | Traditional <*> To change settings online go to: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/Repeater-Builder/join (Yahoo! ID required) <*> To change settings via email: mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to: http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
