Re: SD> Automatic to Manual swap or NOT!
Chris, It's not a bad swap. You'll need pedals and the bracket from a Daytona or Laser, the transmission of your choice either a 520, 555, 523, 568 or maybe a hybrid transmission, shifter and cables to go with your setup, K frame with the bobble strut bracket on it, stick transmission mount, clutch cable and brackets from the strut tower and a set of later, large spline axles and finally the flywheel & clutch package. As for the console, they are the same and the small bezel with the stick boot is different. I have an '86 Daytona that I will be parting out soon and it's a stick car so I can supply you with everything you need including a rebuilt transmission of your choice and everything needed to make the swap into your car. Drop me an email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) if your interested and want more details. Where are you located? Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com In a message dated 5/1/2007 2:05:39 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: I have an 86' Laser XT that is in excellent,untouched condition (cosmetically). I've installed a few mods and now I'm left with a difficult choice. The 3 speed auto kills my performance. I know Cindy and others sell a good 3 speed for around $1,500 (which I'm not afraid to pay). On the otherhand, my only hesitation to swapping out the tranny for a manual is the condition of the vehicle. as the console and everything else is in excellent condition. Are the automatic consoles in these cars the same as a manual console? Can a shifter boot be installed where the gear selection indicator is located or do I have to swap out the whole console? I don't know if I'll ever find a manual console with the same features in this kind of condition (not worth it to me if this is how it is). I'm picky like that : ) Any opinions on the above is appreciated...manual vs. automatic...and/or console tips. Driving the car would definitely be more enjoyable with a manual, and it would be nice not to hear my engine screaming at 3300-3500 rpm at around 70mph. Thanks, Chris [EMAIL PROTECTED] \ ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: '93 Minivan, 2.5 Turbo, intercooler, 568, Quaife & More
Hi all, This was forwarded to me by a friend. He's getting out of his minivan and looking to sell. Please contact him and not me as I have no real information on the van. Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) _www.Mopartek.com_ (http://www.mopartek.com/) In a message dated 4/25/2007 12:51:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Hi Cliff, Sadly, I'm parting out my 1993 Minivan. It includes a "never-raced" (10,000 miles since complete rebuild) 90-91 A-568 with Quaife ATB. Plus many other goodies: See the posting with complete details at: _http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/pts/317387637.html_ (http://saltlakecity.craigslist.org/pts/317387637.html) Also more pictures and details at: _http://hhscott.com/93tmv/_ (http://hhscott.com/93tmv/) Could you pass this info along to any others that may have any interest? Lee Shuster Salt Lake City 888.273.0066 ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Value of Shelby Vehicles
Rob, I can understand your position. I have owned at least one of every vehicle offered by Shelby from both his facility in Whittier, CA. along with ones bearing his name built by Chrysler corp. I have found when trying to sell these car that the only ones with any real resale value to this date have been the '86 GLHS followed by the '89 CSX. I did well selling my truck for two reasons that I believe. One was the fact that it only has 72K miles on it and included some extra parts like a set of NOS wheels and the other was that is was truck number 2. As for the rest of the cars I had, '87 GLHS, CSX, Shelby Lancer and the '88 CSXT if you bought these cars cheap and put any money into them or paid a lot you were stuck with them so you better love it and keep it because selling it as a whole will cost you. I have killed a lot of very sorry shape Shelby and dodge built turbo cars over the years and recycled the parts back into the TD community. All the number cars were either rotted or crashed and I saved them from going to the salvage yard. There have been times I was called names and even kicked of the SDML three different occasions for having something to say back. Demand drives the prices and if you have a nice truck parting it out isn't really the way to go but selling it for a loss is no deal either. Bottom line, it's your truck to do with as you please so make your own choice in this matter. Try selling it locally or even in Hemmings motor news before resorting to removing the good stuff. Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com In a message dated 4/23/2007 9:03:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Boy, I am really disappointed at what my Shelby Dakota bid up to on Ebay. These vehicles are pretty under-appreciated these days. I would be better off parting the truck out! There was a truck that finished just before mine and it bid up to only $1750 dollars. It's got a lot of miles, but still a nice truck. There is a light bar on there now that is over $500 and it has 4 days to go. How does that compare? I don't know what to do, I want to sell my truck, but I'm not going to give it away. Maybe it should go "piece by piece". Anyone have any ideas? Rob -- Current Rides: 1989 Shelby Dakota #883 Red 1969 Superbee 440/4-spd ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Parting out: Black '86 Daytona CS
Hi all, I picked up a black '86 Daytona CS and will be parting it out. Nice exterior body but the car is rotted to death underneath. Has metal rear window louvers, black leather interior although the front seats are shot. Need something specific from one of these 1st Gen G bodies let me know like ground effects, fenders, nose or other body parts. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: L body rad/cooler,air box & hoses,NOS Shelby Items,GLHT GFX & More
Hi all, I have a bunch of post move items up on ebay now. A collection of items here _http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek_ (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek) that include NOS Shelby & Spirit R/T decals and a host of other items so have a look. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: 525/555 hybrid transmission
Hi all, I'm offering up one of my 525/555 transmissions This is the combination that started my hybrid adventure. I built my first one 12 years ago for a friend with an '86 GLHS that wanted the strength and better ratios of the 555 along with the 3.56 FD ratio of the stock 525 and a transmission that wouldn't require cutting of his very nice GLHS, a bolt in custom transmission shall we say that requires no additional parts like axles, shifter & cables. We added his Shelby Cam & Pawl posi unit and a Lambros moly plate and this transmission still runs today in his car. 525/555 transmission. 555 1st thru 5th gears & input shaft. 3.56 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from the 525 and stock 525 differential. Rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. Upgraded 1/2 shift fork to the HD piece from the 555 along with an '87 525 case that uses the stronger differential bearing retainer bolts on the left side. $750.00 Add a Chrome moly plate for $100.00 and get a drain for free. Shipping is by way of Fedex and calculated by your ZIP code to a work address. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Who had the Caravan/Voyager Struts and Shocks?
Hi all, Someone had posted a set of Minivan struts and shocks. If you still have them drop me an email please. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell ** See what's free at http://www.aol.com. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB: Turbo L body kick panels
Hi all, I need a left and right side kick panels from either a Turbo GLH, GLHS or Turbo Shelby Charger, GLHS. The left can be from any L body but the right needs to be a turbo car one that has the bulge for the logic module. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Re: [NESDAC] FS: GLH GFX, 6.5" Crabs, 15" Pumpers, '86 GLHS Wheels, Transmiss...
Following items are sold: ''88 TII Turbo. Little shaft play but no signs of oil or smoke, $old '88 TII G body SMEC number 5233246. Removed from a working car. $old '87 TII Short block $old Cliff Ramsdell ** Check out free AOL at http://free.aol.com/thenewaol/index.adp. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, millions of free high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and much more. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: GLH GFX, 6.5" Crabs, 15" Pumpers, '86 GLHS Wheels, Transmissions and more
Hi all, I have some items that are looking for a new home. Everything is located in Enfield, CT. and shipping is not included unless stated. I'll start with the small stuff first and then the transmissions. 2 sets of GLH Turbo ground effects. Both have the side skirt brackets and are in good condition but one has two small scuff holes in the front facia. $100.00 for one set and $75.00 for the other. 15x6.5 Crab wheels. One pair just wheels the other has a set of fair tires, 222/50/15, $25.00 for the wheels and $50.00 for the wheels and tires. Some center caps missing and some staines and such. 15" silver pumpers with a set of 195/60/15 Cooper cobras. one pair has 70% tread left and the other about 45%. Came off my Son's Shadow and are a nice set of wheels. $100.00 1986 GLHS wheels. I have a set of 4 wheels, fair finish condition but great to refinish. $550.00. I also have three single wheels in the same condition, $140.00 ea. Yes, these are the correct '86 wheels that are marked "Shelby" ''88 TII Turbo. Little shaft play but no signs of oil or smoke, $50.00 '88 TII G body SMEC number 5233246. Removed from a working car. $35.00 '87 TII Short block $100.00 1991 R/T 568, large spline input shaft, 3.85 FD ratio. Brand new Chrysler 1st thru 5th gears, yes you have read correctly, brand new NS1 1st thru 5th speed gears. New 5th gear syncro assembly. I have selected the nicest 1/2 and 3/4 syncro assemblies I could find and assembled this transmission using a good used input shaft and intermediate shaft along with a good 5th gear used on the input shaft. Also included is a Future Auto Block & clutch posi unit and a drain plug is installed. The only way to find a nicer transmission would be to find a brand new one. $1500.00 413 Automatic transmission. This time I offering an automatic transmission for those that have asked in the past. 5 clutch front, 4 clutch rear clutch packs, 3.4 KD lever ratio, 3.02 overall gear ratio, this is the stock turbo car transmission ratio for automatics. This transmission also contains a Turbo Action RMVB, case is drilled for external line pressure adjustment. Also included in this transmission a Block style posi unit. This is one made by Pat at Future Auto and had HD springs and tested at 80 lbs breakaway on the bench, these are no Quaife or OBX but better than nothing. HD Torque convertor that's good to 350 HP. Transmission and convertor will ship separately $1400.00 520/555 Race/Street transmission. 555 1st thru 5th gears & input shaft. 3.50 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from a 520 with a stock differential and diff pin retainers. This race proved street crash box has had modifications to the gears and brass rings. Every other tooth was removed from the 1st thru 4th speed gears and the brass rings to allow full throttle, to the floor power shifting. This transmission setup was race proven with over 100 passes in a 12 sec. Shadow. If your looking for something that shifts like no other here, is your transmission. You can have it with a welded diff for no extra charge for your race only application or add the OBX or keep a stock open diff for a street strip car. $1000.00 523/568. '91 Large spline gears set, 3.50 FD ratio. Stock open diff but can be upgraded to a Quaife or OBX. Rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. $900.00 Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ** Check out free AOL at http://free.aol.com/thenewaol/index.adp. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, millions of free high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and much more. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB: 6 Bolt auto flexplate
Hi all, Need a six bolt automatic flexplate. This is for the '85 and earlier 2.2 motor with the 6 bolt crank and 3 bolt convertor. I'll take the bolts if you have them too. Doing an auto swap in a Rampage so drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and let me know what you have, how much and shipping price to 06082. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB: L body Auto Shifter, cable, bezel & Auto brake pedal
Hi all, Need a Shifter, cable and bezel for an L body with automatic trans. Also need the brake pedal for the same. Doing an auto swap in a Rampage so drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] and let me know what you have, how much and shipping price to 06082. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Check out the new AOL. Most comprehensive set of free safety and security tools, free access to millions of high-quality videos from across the web, free AOL Mail and more. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Hybrid transmissions, Automatic transmission and R/T 568 with NEW gears
Hi all, Well it's the beginning of a new year. People are getting parts collected for their big project and I have put together a collection of transmission choices for your project. I'm offering a free shipping container and packaging material with each transmission purchased. None of the transmissions are assembled so you can select the options you want like moly plate, OBX and drain plug (Except the '91 R/T with new gears which only comes one way) . The OBX in NOT available on the 525/555 transmission. Moly Plate for the 525/555, 520/555 is an additional $100.00 Drain plug is an additional $25.00 OBX Differential with new internal washers, disassembled and all holes tapped and case clearanced for proper axle fit $550.00 NOTE: This is for the 520/555 and 523/568 transmissions ONLY. Will NOT fit the 525/555 transmission. The reason for the added cost on the OBX is that all but one we have had here came with broken belville washers inside, fasteners not torqued right, bolt holes not tapped right and axle shafts that wouldn't fit into the unit, we fix all these issues. First transmission offered is one you will never find again. This transmission is a collection of NOS parts that I collected over the years at the dealership along with items I have collected building transmission in my shop. 1991 R/T 568, large spline input shaft, 3.85 FD ratio. Brand new Chrysler 1st thru 5th gears, yes you have read correctly, brand new NS1 1st thru 5th speed gears. New 5th gear syncro assembly. I have selected the nicest 1/2 and 3/4 syncro assemblies I could find and assembled this transmission using a good used input shaft and intermediate shaft along with a good 5th gear used on the input shaft. Also included is a Future Auto Block & clutch posi unit and a drain plug is installed. The only way to find a nicer transmission would be to find a brand new one. $1500.00 413 Automatic transmission. This time I offering an automatic transmission for those that have asked in the past. 5 clutch front, 4 clutch rear clutch packs, 3.4 KD lever ratio, 3.02 overall gear ratio, this is the stock turbo car transmission ratio for automatics. This transmission also contains a Turbo Action RMVB, case is drilled for external line pressure adjustment. Also included in this transmission a Block style posi unit. This is one made by Pat at Future Auto and had HD springs and tested at 80 lbs breakaway on the bench, these are no Quaife or OBX but better than nothing. HD Torque convertor that's good to 350 HP. Transmission and convertor will ship separately $1400.00 525/555 transmission. This is the combination that started my hybrid adventure. I built my first one 12 years ago for a friend with an '86 GLHS that wanted the strength and better ratios of the 555 along with the 3.56 FD ratio of the stock 525 and a transmission that wouldn't require cutting of his very nice GLHS, a bolt in custom transmission shall we say. We added his Shelby Cam & Pawl posi unit and a Lambros moly plate and this transmission still runs today in his car. 525/555 transmission. 555 1st thru 5th gears & input shaft. 3.56 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from the 525 and stock 525 differential. Rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. Upgraded 1/2 shift fork to the HD piece from the 555 along with an '87 525 case that uses the stronger differential bearing retainer bolts on the left side. $750.00 520/555 Race/Street transmission. 555 1st thru 5th gears & input shaft. 3.50 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from a 520 with a stock differential and diff pin retainers. This race proved street crash box has had modifications to the gears and brass rings. Every other tooth was removed from the 1st thru 4th speed gears and the brass rings to allow full throttle, to the floor power shifting. This transmission setup was race proven with over 100 passes in a 12 sec. Shadow. If your looking for something that shifts like no other here, is your transmission. You can have it with a welded diff for no extra charge for your race only application or add the OBX or keep a stock open diff for a street strip car. $1000.00 R/T 523/568 This is a new combination I came up with to offer the R/T owners the choice of having a Quaife unit without the Quaife price. 1991 R/T transmission with a 3.77 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from a 523. A good choice to keep close to the stock 3:85 FD ratio and allows you to install an OBX LSD unit. Rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. $900.00 Shipping is by way of Fedex and calculated by your ZIP code to a work address so please include that when inquiring. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.
SD> FS: Turbo header, GLH GFX, TIII stuff, 6.5" crabs & More
Hi all, Have a few TD items on ebay here _http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek_ (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek) Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Shop Heater
Hi all, I picked this up but won't be using it. It's brand new but has some cosmetic shipping damage. It's from Grainger and it's a Dayton electric heater. You can see more here for exact specs on the unit, _http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1613601727_ (http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemDetailsRender.shtml?ItemId=1613601727) Weight and size will ship Fedex no problem. I'm asking $100.00 for it and shipping depends on ZIP code, US 48 state shipping only. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Part number needed
Nick, 1985 2.2 TI Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com In a message dated 11/21/2006 7:07:20 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Can someone please tell me what this computer fits? P4532325 Thanks, Nick ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Hybrid Transmission Sale
Hi all, Things have been busy around here with moving and all. Getting the new shop setup now with heat, lights and shelves, the job moves forward. With the help of some good friends I have amassed a collection of core transmissions in the last two weeks and have a list of hybrid transmissions I will be offering at this time. I have parts to build these all and they are offered on a first come basis. The OBX will be ordered as requested by the customer. At this time I'm offering a free drain plug and the shipping container and packaging material with each transmission purchased None of the transmissions are assembled so you can select the options you want like moly plate, OBX and drain plug. The OBX in NOT available on the 525/555 transmission. Moly Plate for the 525/555, 520/555 is an additional $100.00 OBX Differential with new internal washers, disassembled and all holes tapped and case clearanced for proper axle fit $550.00 NOTE: This is for the 520/555 and 523/568 transmissions ONLY. Will NOT fit the 525/555 transmission. The reason for the added cost on the OBX is that all but one we have had here came with broken belville washers inside, fasteners not torqued right, bolt holes not tapped right and axle shafts that wouldn't fit into the unit, we fix all these issues. 525/555 transmission. This is the combination that started my hybrid adventure. I built my first one 12 years ago for a friend with an '86 GLHS that wanted the strength and better ratios of the 555 along with the 3.56 FD ratio of the stock 525 and a transmission that wouldn't require cutting of his very nice GLHS, a bolt in custom transmission shall we say. We added his Shelby Cam & Pawl posi unit and a Lambros moly plate and this transmission still runs today in his car. 525/555 transmission. 555 1st thru 5th gears & input shaft. 3.56 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from the 525 and stock 525 differential. Rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. Upgraded 1/2 shift fork to the HD piece from the 555 along with an '87 525 case that uses the stronger differential bearing retainer bolts on the left side. $725.00 520/555 Transmission. 555 1st thru 5th gears & input shaft. 3.50 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from a 520 with stock differential and diff pin retainers. Rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. $800.00 520/555 Race/Street transmission. 555 1st thru 5th gears & input shaft. 3.50 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from a 520 with a stock differential and diff pin retainers. This race proven street crash box has had modifications to the gears and brass rings. Every other tooth was removed from the 1st thru 4th speed gears and the brass rings to allow full throttle, to the floor power shifting. This transmission setup was race proven with over 100 passes in a 12 sec. Shadow and the final cause of failure in that transmission was the stock differential when the motor and transmission were installed in a full curb weight Spirit R/T, blew the pinion gears all over the Englishtown starting line, NICE. If your looking for something that shifts like no other here, is your transmission. You can have it with a welded diff for no extra charge for your race only application or add the OBX for a street strip car. $1000.00 R/T 523/568 This is a new combination I came up with to offer the R/T owners the choice of having a Quaife unit without the Quaife price. 1991 R/T transmission with a 3.77 FD intermediate shaft and ring gear from a 523. A good choice to keep close to the stock 3:85 FD ratio and allows you to install an OBX LSD unit. Rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. $900.00 Shipping is by way of Fedex and calculated by your ZIP code to a work address. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: CSX-VNT Computer, L body Manual rack, GLHS Rad/cooler/fan assembly
Hi all, Got these items listed on ebay right now for those of you who might be needing such items. You can find them here _http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek_ (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek) Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Mopar Tee shirts and Direct Connection items
Hi all, Cleaning out more and found a huge stash of new and used tee shirts from various Mopar events. Most are from the New England area but some are from Florida & New Jersey, along with some car specfic shirts. First off I have a brand new, never worn Direct Connection knit cap and scarf. These came from the old DC catalog and have been stashed away for the last 20 years. Red, white and blue colors with "Direct Connection' and the pentastar in knitted into them. $50.00 + shipping. All shirts are prices and shipping is extra, buy more that three and I'll cut the price by 15% for each shirt. So here we go with the list, New first then the used shirts. 1988 Mopar's at Englishtown, NJ. XL shirt Blue color $15.00 1989 Mopar's at Englishtown NJ. XL shirt Blue color $15.00 1998 Mopar's at Englishtown NJ. XL shirt Green color $15.00 1995 Mopar Expo at Lime Rock Park CT. XL White shirt signed by Tommy Johnson jr., Scott Geoffrion and Darrell Alderman $30.00 1996 Mopar Expo at Lime Rock Park CT. Large shirt, White $8.00 1998 Mopar Expo at Lime Rock Park CT. XL shirt, White $8.00 ea. I have two of these 1999 Mopar Expo at Lime Rock Park CT. XL shirt, White $8.00 ea. I have two of these 2000 Dodge Dealers Grand Prix at Lime Rock Park CT. XL shirt, Gray $8.00 ea. 2001 Daytona Speed week Shirt. This shirt depicts the new Dodge stock car on the front as this was the return race for Chrysler to stock car racing. It is also the race that Dale Earnhardt was killed in. White shirt 2 X in size $45.00 2004 Chrysler Convention in Vernon, CT. This event was put on but the Northeast Mighty Mopar Club $5.00 Used shirts listed by year and event: 1986 Mopar's at Englishtown, NJ. This was the first year for this event. XL shirt Blue color $10.00 1987 Mopar's at Englishtown, NJ. XL shirt Blue color $5.00 1988 Mopar's at Englishtown, NJ. XL shirt White color $5.00 1988 Mopar's with Big Daddy in Ocala, FL. This was the first year for this event. 2 X shirt but wears small for the size. White in color $10.00 1995 Mopar Expo at Lime Rock Park CT. Large size White shirt signed by Tommy Johnson jr., Scott Geoffrion and Darrell Alderman $15.00 1996 Mopar Magic at Foster Motors, Middlebury, VT. XL shirt, Black color $5.00 The following are some Mopar related shirts Big Daddy 1986 record breaking shirt 271.08 at Etown July 11th 1986 This was the same event he flipped his car over and around and ended up on the wheels pointed back at the starting line, it was great and I got to see it. $5.00 Black XL shirt with pentastar and "Fear This" on the front. New $8.00 340 Big Bore Hunter. XL white $5.00 Dart Scat pack Tee shirt. Gray with '67, '68 and '69 Darts in the front. $5.00 '68 Dart GTS tee shirt. Gray color XL. $5.00 That's all for now but I have stuff coming to ebay this coming week. Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Spirit R/T registry and web site
Hi all, Well, in my cleanup of my house and contents one item that I have and would like to go to a new home is the Spirit R/T registry and web site. OK, here's the deal. I have the VIN numbers for 993 of the 1991 R/T's and 124 of the 1992 R/T's, only the Spirit's, no IROC's. There are a few Vin's of the Mexican Spirit R/T's both twin can and single cam cars also. I have function 70's for all the VIN numbers and a file card for each and the material takes up about a draw and one half of a file cabinet. If someone really want's all this stuff please contact me and we can discuss the details and come to a deal on the price. I have some cash involved here along with 100's of hours invested and don't want to see it all go to waste and get tossed into a dumpster so if you love Spirit R/T's and want all this stuff please contact me. There will not be another email about this and the next time you read about it either someone else will own it or it will be gone for ever. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> fuel problem (no PSI) HELP NEEDED
You won't have any voltage across the fuel pump leads unless someone is cranking the car over. How about spark, got that? Fault codes, got any? No spark could translate to no fuel pressure also since the ASD relay priovides voltage to the coil, fuel pump, injectors and the heated O2 sensor and again there will be power here only when the car is cranking or running. Voltage at the coil and pump should be just about battery voltage when the car is cranking. Hope this helps, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" In a message dated 8/28/2006 10:11:36 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Need some help. Probably simple, but want to make ABSOLUTELY SURE, might be > > missing a trick. Car was running about 8-months ago, and started > occassionally while parked. I walk to work (2-blocks) and it doesn't get > used much. > > 1. I am getting no fuel pressure, tank is full, fuel filter replaced 4-years > > ago (car will not start). > 2. Replaced shut-off module (for a better word) with a spare (car will not > start). > 3. Climbed under car, tested fuel pump leads (10.5mVA) across the leads, but > > started to rain, and am not sure as the multi-meter is a problem unit... > will test again. > > Maybe I'm wrong... but it appearsa to be the FUEL PUMP. Any other way or > suggestions to prove my theory... put in a Walbro about 4-years ago... and > the car has been setting up/stored... varnished fuel, clogged line, plugged > filter (even thou fairly new). > > Michael J. Weary > AMSOIL dealer ZO505009 > http://www.lubedealer.com/perfprod/ > > 1989 Daytona Shelby > 1989 Shelby Dakota #315 > http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> More Stuff on Ebay. TIII Parts and Tools, 3 Bar Map
Hi all, More stuff this week on ebay. Check it out here _http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek_ (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek) I think this is the last of the loose TIII items I have. Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Slicks & Drag Radials
Hi all, In further cleaning up I have a set of slicks and drag radials left from the wagon. Shipping is from 06082 and if your interested email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) . Slicks, M&H Racemaster 8.5x23x15 mounted on 15" pumpers and in great shape, mounted and ready to run. These tires have about 20 to 25 passes on them. They weigh about 70 lbs for the pair to ship. $250.00 Drag radials. BFG G-force TA drag radials 205/50/15 mounted on 15" pumpers. These tires have about 100 miles of street use and no drag strip use. They weigh about 80 lbs for the pair to ship. $200.00 Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Roll cage and Posi unit. _http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html_ (http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html) www.Mopartek.com ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Service Manuals, Drivability books, Wiring harness, MP parts & More
Hi all, OK, last chance for this stuff. What didn't sell this past week made it here to ebay http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek and what doesn't sell gets tossed next week. So, if you need stuff for your aging TD car like hard to find books and stuff check out my auctions because I'm getting out except my transmission business and everything, and I mean everything is going either down the road to a new owner or in the trash. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Chrysler Service Manuals, drivability books, wiring harnesses & More
Hi all, Cleaning out more. I have a file cabinet full of Chrysler factory service manuals and drivability books from 1984 to 1993 and the cover the turbo cars and TIII cars. Here is a partial list I'll let run for now and then onto ebay next Monday. All books and material are located in Enfield, CT. 06082. Shipping is additional and if your inquiring please include a ZIP code. Email only to [EMAIL PROTECTED] will get replies, OK? Service Manuals listed first. I'll include the condition and how many are included and all are FWD books unless otherwise stated. 1984, 2 books fair condition. Chassis/Body, Electrical & Engine Performance $25.00 1985, 4 books. Minivan (fair condition) and FWD (very good condition) Engine/Chassis/Body, Electrical/HVAC and Wiring $50.00 1986, 3 books very good condition. Engine/Chassis/Body, Electrical/HVAC and Wiring $50.00 1987, 3 books good condition. Engine/Chassis/Body, Wiring & Shadow/Sundace (early release manual) $45.00 1988, 3 books good condition. Engine/Chassis/Body, Electrical/HVAC and Wiring $45.00 1991, 3 books very good condition. Engine/Chassis/Body, Electrical/HVAC and Wiring Includes Spirit R/T TIII motor and electrical $50.00 1992, 4 books fair condition. Engine/Chassis/Body, Electrical/HVAC and Wiring Includes Spirit R/T & IROC R/T TIII motor and electrical along with Minivan $50.00 1993, 2 books fair condition. Engine/Chassis/Body, Electrical/Fuel/Emissions. Includes IROC R/T TIII motor and electrical $40.00 1991 FWD Wiring book only includes Spirit R/T wiring diagrams $25.00 Drivability books also called Powertrain Diagnostic Procedure books. Chrysler issued. 1985 2.2 Turbo $20.00 1988 2.2 TI & TII Includes charging and speed control $20.00 1989 2.5 TI includes charging and speed control $20.00 1990 2.2 TIV and 2.5 TI $25.00 1991 2.5 TI $25.00 1991 2.2 TIII $30.00 1992 2.5 TI $25.00 1992 2.2 TIII $30.00 1993 2.2 TIII $30.00 I also have a bunch of wiring harnesses left that didn't sell. If you want one get it now because they will get tossed in the can next week. Make and offer, lets deal. Wiring harnesses and parts. I found 4 big old boxes full of harnesses and parts some need work but all are complete, sold as is. '86/'87 Shelby Charger underhood harness for TI motor. This is just the main harness with no sub harnesses, I have 2 of them $50.00 ea. '88 Turbo negative wiring harness G/J/H body TI & TII cars Nice $20.00 '89 Turbo negative wiring harness G/J/H body TI & TII cars Nice $20.00 '90 Turbo negative wiring harness G/J/maybe P body I have 2. One nice the other missing an end for the ground to frame rail wire $20.00ea '91 Turbo negative harness A body most likely but might also work with G&P cars. $20.00 '91 Spirit R/T Positive harness good condition $25.00 L body turbo fuel pump wiring harness. Runs under the floor to the tank. $25.00 Box of misc. harnesses. L body turbo neg. harness, G/J/H Neg. harness, G/J/H/P positive harnesses and about 5 fuel rail harnesses $25.00 Everybody keeps motors and transmissions along with the other good hot hard parts but harnesses get overlooked. Get them now because when I move what hasn't sold gets tossed in the trash. Want a few or all of them, lets deal. The more you buy the better I'll drop the package price. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Wiring harnesses, SC, GLH, S60 and more stuff
Hi all, More cleaning up going on around the shop and found some more stuff. Some things posted here and some on ebay here http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek ebay stuff is going up later. Remember shipping is extra and everything is located in Enfield, CT. OK, here we go. Wiring harnesses and parts. I found 4 big old boxes full of harnesses and parts some need work but all are complete, sold as is. '86/'87 Shelby Charger underhood harness for TI motor. This is just the main harness with no sub harnesses, I have 2 of them $50.00 ea. Omni Super 60 harness kit. '89 G body underhood harnesses complete with all three sub harnesses, positive, negative and fuel rail. It also comes with an Omni carb underhood harness to make your own GLH Super 60 harness $85.00 '88 Turbo negative wiring harness G/J/H body TI & TII cars Nice $20.00 '89 Turbo negative wiring harness G/J/H body TI & TII cars Nice $20.00 '90 Turbo negative wiring harness G/J/maybe P body I have 2. One nice the other missing an end for the ground to frame rail wire $20.00ea '91 Turbo negative harness A body most likely but might also work with G&P cars. $20.00 '91 Spirit R/T Positive harness good condition $25.00 L body turbo fuel pump wiring harness. Runs under the floor to the tank. $25.00 L body Turbo negative wiring harness converted to a Nippondenso alt end, nice clean bolt in harness $50.00 Box of misc. harnesses. L body turbo neg. harness, G/J/H Neg. harness, G/J/H/P positive harnesses and about 5 fuel rail harnesses $25.00 Everybody keeps motors and transmissions along with the other good hot hard parts but harnesses get overlooked. Get them now because when I move what hasn't sold gets tossed in the trash. Want a few or all of them, lets deal. The more you buy the better I'll drop the package price. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: GLHS Konis, Steering wheel, Intercooler, GLH GFX, Mopar Collectibles & More
HI all, Listed a bunch of stuff on ebay including my collection of Chrysler Master Tech Gold tool awards that I recieved over the years. Please check them out here http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZmopartek and thanks for bidding. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> No rip off on Roush computer
Any time Jerry. "Thanks to Cliff for the vote of confidence." Jerry and I have swapped parts back and forth over the years, quite a few years at that. We ran into a similar situation with a TIII rad/cooler/fan assembly I sold him. When he removed the A/C condenser that is bolted to the front of the radiator assembly he found that the radiator core fins were falling apart. An email back to me and we resolved the situation with a full refund including the shipping both ways on the part, done deal. People, please take note of this situation here. Please take the time to resolve the situation in private before running somebody into the dirt in public. This looks to have been corrected before a public post was even made and yet he was hung out to dry for all to see, not a fair way to treat others in the ever dwindling TD community. People wonder what happened to the likes of Cliff Sebring, Dave Zelkowski, "5 Digits", Rick Ehrenberg, Gary Donovan and others that have contributed over the years to this community and it's things like this that drive people away. Just my .04 cents since I added some extra here. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/11/2006 9:48:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > In a typicall overreaction, Brain smeared me in a public forum. I sent him > my original Roush socketed computer, a rare 2.5 bar MAP Chrysler Prototype, > and unfortunately a chip that was a copy of the original calibration and an > added switch for 5 degrees of extra advance. > There was no attempt to defraud anyone and I shipped out the computer to > Brian Saturday morning after he sent me a paypal payment on Friday. I had > forgotten about that chip but did see it before I sent it out. Since that > time, I > have found all my old chips and offered to send the original chip too, or > take the whole thing back and refund his money. > I didn't know Brian had blasted me in public and even tried to call him > within HOURS of his complaint email to me, but reached his sister instead. I > don't know where you guys get off ragging about legal action, mail fraud, etc. > $150 bought him a socketed computer, a rare MAP, and the original > calibration PLUS a small modification. > As a note of background, the car came with a chip installed and two in the > ash tray. They all had handwritten stickers on them and when I tried one of > the ash tray chips it ran differently. I sent them all to Rob Maxon to find > out why and he discovered a 5 degree spark advance difference in one of them, > so we combined those features in one chip and that was the one I ran before > the computer went into storage around 2002. > The bottom line is, at the first sign of a complaint, Brian had a offer for > a remedy within two hours, so where do you get that kind of service and > integrity. Also, where is the fraud? > Brian has now told me all he wanted was the calibration and I told him he > could send the computer back he could get the cal free from Gary Donovan. > What > more can anyone do? > I have never had ripped off anyone on this list and there are lots of you > out there that could have spoken up about it. Thanks to Cliff for the vote > of > confidence. > Regards, > Jerry Caviani, Ann Arbor, MI ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Engine Torques Breaking CV boot band
Ron, A couple of things to check. 1) The passenger side mount on turbo cars with the two piece shafts had spacers (about 5/16" thick) between the mount and frame bracket. Make sure these are in place also, while they don't look like much they will help with this problem. 2) The bottom stud and nut on the passenger side mount where it bolts to the motor bracket need to be the correct items, in good shape and tight. The stud is tapered and the correct nut has a recess for this so the mount sits centered in the motor bracket. If wrong or broken the mount will sag. 3) The mount it self. Stay away from POS part store mounts. They can and will fail in short order with a good performance motor. For your '87 car get the MP mount, P4286765 for that side. It's a nice firm mount that doesn't transmit too much engine vibration to the car, used them in my TIII wagon with great success. Hope this helps, Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/11/2006 7:15:51 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Yeap Brian I've seen that a few times too. > > - Original Message - > From: Brian Schulteis > To: Ron Zimmer > Cc: shelby-dodge@imagicomm.com > Sent: Sunday, April 09, 2006 12:15 PM > Subject: Re: SD> Engine Torques Breaking CV boot band > > > I had that problem once. It was a snapped bolt that went through the > passenger side motor mount. > > On 4/9/06, Ron Zimmer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > >Hey my engine moves causing the CV boot band to strike the frame on the > >passenger side CV. Motor mounts must need adjusting but how? > >I am thinking of replacing the back little shock absorber mount with > rigid > >steel rod. > > > >Any thoughts? > > > >Ron > >87 Shelby Z > >Keller, Texas ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> FS: Rare computer and 2.5 bar MAP
I know I'm not involved in this but I do know Jerry. He's a 100% stand up guy and bashing him in a public place won't make this better. Did you contact him? If so I'm sure he can either explain or make it right but give the man a chance before hanging him out to dry here. So, with that said I'm sure Jerry and the unaclocker can get this resolved without outside help trying to blow this into something it's not. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/10/2006 10:45:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > In a message dated 4/10/2006 5:42:19 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > I notice you say THE ORIGINAL calibration was done by Roush Racing... > Why didn't you mention that this wasn't original anymore?? I got this > computer today, popped the chip from it into my computer and it says > "Rob Maxon 2001"...?!?!?! I just spent $150 on a freakin Maxon cal? I > could have just downloaded one of those, or a much better more modern > cal, and bought a 3bar map sensor and saved myself $75+.. You said in > the note you mailed with the cal "This computer has served me well for > a long time".. Makes it pretty clear you knew it had been modified, as > 2001 isn't that long ago.. > I'm just really frustrated, I haven't had a single TD sale go through > without getting the short end of the stick in months now. > > > Get that money back! was it shipped USPS?Mail fraud.. > Did ya pay for it through paypal?leave him with a negative balance.. > > See if he's a reputable person and ask for a refund/trade back ;) > > If that goesnt go through, Ill send ya some links so you can get legal > action rolling with great speed and no bs.. Ive got 5 convictions > under > my belt from fradulent sellers, so ive been dow this road before.. 2 went > > to jail because it was over 500 bucks worth of merchandise.. > > lemme know if I can help if it goes sour.. > > Chris Pauluk - Modesto CA. - 1984 Rampage "Ramlet" > _www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage_ > (http://www.cardomain.com/id/solo2rampage) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Fault code 34 on an 88 csx-t???
Just ignore this code. All non cruise cars would generate this code just like non A/C cars generate a code 33. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/8/2006 8:26:22 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: Does anyone know what a fault code 34 on a csx-t represents. I know it says speed control solenoid. Servo not working properly when cruise is on. Only problem is my car isn't equipped with cruise control. I checked the wires from the speed control sensor, and they have good conitnuity. The sensor would show a code 15, and I don't get that. So any ideas? I'm trying to find another problem that's fuel related, but I figure it'd be better to have no codes and work from there. Any ideas you guys have would be greatly appreciated. Thanks-Jarrod ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Ever break a roller cam?
A good idea but one thing comes to mind. Could be a warped head, I have seen the head be bent and the cam saddles be off but usually after a severe overheat condition and then the head was resurfaced. I have never seen a bent camshaft yet, the word yet is there for a reason but this would be a first case if you found one. A straight edge laid in the cam saddles and if you can across the journals would tell the story there but if the failure in between the lobes this has been a point of continued failures with roller cams and I wouldn't loose sleep over it all. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/4/2006 10:18:28 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > One extra step I would do if it is a used cam is to install the camshaft > without the followers and make sure it is not bent. It should turn evenly > without binding. > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] said: > >David, > >I have seen this quite a few times working at the dealer and everyone > >broke > >in the same exact place, between the intake and exhaust lobe of the #1 > >cylinder. > > > >While I haven't seen it in a few years because of the decline of the 2.2 > >and > >2.5 powered cars every once and a while it will pop up. > > > >A cam swap was all that was needed and the cars went back on the road. The > >first one got a new cam but after that they would come to me for a deal on > >a > >used cam for the car. You don't even need to change the followers, just > >the cam > >and you on your way. > > > >Hope this helps. > > > >Cliff Ramsdell > > > >In a message dated 4/4/2006 9:15:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > >>Last year my sister had her high mileage car break down for good and she > >>was > >>in need of a new daily driver. A local friend knew of a good deal on a > >>2.5 > >>powered minivan so I thought it would be a dependable vehicle for her. I > >>use > >>one myself for m company minivan and it's been quite good with me. > >> > >>It's been pretty reliable thus far but recently she's been had an > >>unusual > >>problem that's been making her feel that it may be headed for a serious > >>and > >>expensive engine repair (which she can't afford since she was laid off > >>recently). > >> > >>Last month without any prior warning signs it stalled out and wouldn't > >>restart. I went to take a quick look at it for her and discovered it was > >>a > >>pretty simple problem, the timing belt had broken. Well that was common > >>enough > >>and it wasn't complicated or expensive to repair so I didn't feel it was > >>an > >>unusual. > >> > >>The repairs went fine and it was back on the road and running fine > >>within > >>days > >>but what happened next I thought was real unusual. Again it stalled out > >>and > >>wouldn't restart. I pulled the inspection plug from the upper timing > >>belt > >>cover and the upper cam gear was turning so I knew the timing belt was > >>turning. > >> > >>She had it towed to a shop where their immediate diagnosis was a blown > >>head > >>gasket. This made little sense to me since there was no warning signs > >>and it > >>had no history of or sudden last minute overheating or smoking. They > >>said > >>they > >>ran a compression check and two cylinders were getting little to no > >>pressure. > >> > >>I didn't feel that was the right diagnosis so she had a mechanic friend > >>of > >>hers work on it at his house. He somewhat agreed with their theory but > >>when > >>the head was pulled the head gasket looked perfect. Upon further > >>inspection > >>(which should have noticed once the valve cover was removed) he > >>discovered > >>that the roller cam had snapped between the area around the last 2 > >>lobes. > >> > >>In a regular stock setup without extreme driving conditions I don't seem > >>to > >>recall seeing camshafts breaking like that. I supplied a decent 2.5 used > >>roller cam that he reinstalled the head gasket &cam and it's back to > >>running > >>normally. > >> > >>Someone told her that this was a sign that the bottom end of the motor > >>would > >>be going out soon and the engine was on borrowed time. I was thinking > >>that > >>the > >>cam breakage was just a fluke and possibly due to stress caused by the > >>timing > >>belt breaking and wouldn't have a direct influence on the lower end of > >>the > >>engine. Has anybody had any experiences with camshafts snapping under > >>routine > >>driving? If so are they having other engine problems later? > >> > >>David Salamone > >>Positive Impressions > >>Jacksonville, Florida > >>[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >> > >>1982 Rampage (dual carb ongoing &taking forever project show car) > >>1987 Shelby CSX #172 (awaiting front end bodywork, but with low miles) > >>1994 Voyager 2.5 (the company minivan, alive once again with another > >>2.5) > >>1979 Dodge Omni 1.7 (backup getaround car when other stuff breaks) > > > > > ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING > >Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ > > > >To be rem
Re: SD> Ever break a roller cam?
David, I have seen this quite a few times working at the dealer and everyone broke in the same exact place, between the intake and exhaust lobe of the #1 cylinder. While I haven't seen it in a few years because of the decline of the 2.2 and 2.5 powered cars every once and a while it will pop up. A cam swap was all that was needed and the cars went back on the road. The first one got a new cam but after that they would come to me for a deal on a used cam for the car. You don't even need to change the followers, just the cam and you on your way. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/4/2006 9:15:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Last year my sister had her high mileage car break down for good and she > was > in need of a new daily driver. A local friend knew of a good deal on a 2.5 > powered minivan so I thought it would be a dependable vehicle for her. I use > one myself for m company minivan and it's been quite good with me. > > It's been pretty reliable thus far but recently she's been had an unusual > problem that's been making her feel that it may be headed for a serious and > expensive engine repair (which she can't afford since she was laid off > recently). > > Last month without any prior warning signs it stalled out and wouldn't > restart. I went to take a quick look at it for her and discovered it was a > pretty simple problem, the timing belt had broken. Well that was common > enough > and it wasn't complicated or expensive to repair so I didn't feel it was an > unusual. > > The repairs went fine and it was back on the road and running fine within > days > but what happened next I thought was real unusual. Again it stalled out and > wouldn't restart. I pulled the inspection plug from the upper timing belt > cover and the upper cam gear was turning so I knew the timing belt was > turning. > > She had it towed to a shop where their immediate diagnosis was a blown head > gasket. This made little sense to me since there was no warning signs and it > had no history of or sudden last minute overheating or smoking. They said > they > ran a compression check and two cylinders were getting little to no > pressure. > > I didn't feel that was the right diagnosis so she had a mechanic friend of > hers work on it at his house. He somewhat agreed with their theory but when > the head was pulled the head gasket looked perfect. Upon further inspection > (which should have noticed once the valve cover was removed) he discovered > that the roller cam had snapped between the area around the last 2 lobes. > > In a regular stock setup without extreme driving conditions I don't seem to > recall seeing camshafts breaking like that. I supplied a decent 2.5 used > roller cam that he reinstalled the head gasket &cam and it's back to running > normally. > > Someone told her that this was a sign that the bottom end of the motor would > be going out soon and the engine was on borrowed time. I was thinking that > the > cam breakage was just a fluke and possibly due to stress caused by the > timing > belt breaking and wouldn't have a direct influence on the lower end of the > engine. Has anybody had any experiences with camshafts snapping under > routine > driving? If so are they having other engine problems later? > > David Salamone > Positive Impressions > Jacksonville, Florida > [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > 1982 Rampage (dual carb ongoing &taking forever project show car) > 1987 Shelby CSX #172 (awaiting front end bodywork, but with low miles) > 1994 Voyager 2.5 (the company minivan, alive once again with another 2.5) > 1979 Dodge Omni 1.7 (backup getaround car when other stuff breaks) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: NPR's, Crabs, GLHT, TII and More
Hi all, Spring cleaning time. Here is a list of what I have found so far. I'll ship the big items but it could be a bit costly so ask for a shipping price. I would like paypal payment for the items please but will talk about Money Orders. Here we go, GLHT Hoods. I have two of them. One, a black hood has some surface rust and a dent in the front lip, grill vent and lower drain still intact. $100.00. Second is a Blue hood that was painted black and has the brace under the grill removed for clearance of a 2 piece intake, it includes a GLHS blockoff plate. $100.00 Large NPR intercooler. This is the one everybody wants. Core is 14.5" high, 19.25 wide and 2" thick. 2.75 outlets. Nice shape and ready to run $200.00 Med NPR intercooler off the older trucks. Core is 13.75" high, 15.75 wide and 2" thick. Has 2" outlets. $100.00 15x6.5 crab wheels and 205/60HR/15 tires. Tires and wheels are in good shape but wheels could use some cosmetic loving. $125.00 Nice pair of Omni front fenders. Gray ones from an NA car but nice and straight $50.00 for the pair. Radiator fan. Mopar nice and thin and I use them for my TII conversions in L bodies and it clears everything nicely. $40.00 '91 Shadow 5 speed K frame. Cast control arms. Complete including sway bar. $50.00 I also have some items listed on ebay here http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB Neon OBX
Hi all, Title says it all. Anyone have an OBX they bought and now not using? Drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) with price and shipping to Enfield, CT. 06082 Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: '87 Shelby Lancer Complete underhood harness
Hi all, I have a complete underhood harness from an '87 Shelby lancer. All 4 harnesses are there, main underhood, positive harness, negative harness and the injector harness. This harness is in nice shape and was removed from a 100k car. Had one broken end for the ground cable to frame rail and it has been fixed. This is a nice TII underhood harness. $75.00 + shipping and it's located in Enfield, CT. 06082 for those of you close enough to take a ride up here for it. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Bunch of stuff on Ebay
Hi all, Got a bunch of stuff on Ebay and I'll be adding more this week. Check them out here _http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek_ (http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek) Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Holiday Hybrid Transmission Sale 525/555 & 520/555
Hi all, It's the holiday season and I'm offering up a pair of Hybrid transmissions so you can get the gift you want for your car. Here is the best part, I'm offering these with free shipping and the shipping container. This offer is good from now till Christmas. The first is a 520/555 transmission. '87/'88 555 using the 3.50 final drive ratio of the '87/'88 520 transmission. All new bearings, seals, shift fork pads, cleaned, painted and assembled. $750.00 The second is a 525/555 transmission. '87/'88 555 input shaft and 1st thru 5th gearset along with the 3.56 final drive ratio of the 525 and all installed in an '87 525 case. All new bearings, seals, shift fork pads, cleaned, painted and assembled. $700.00 I have one moly plate left in stock that can be added to either transmission for the cost of the plate, $125.00 but I only have one so it's first come first serve on the moly plate. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Holiday Hybrid Transmission Sale 525/555 & 520/555
Hi all, It's the holiday season and I'm offering up a pair of Hybrid transmissions so you can get the gift you want for your car. Here is the best part, I'm offering these with free shipping and the shipping container. This offer is good from now till Christmas. The first is a 520/555 transmission. '87/'88 555 using the 3.50 final drive ratio of the '87/'88 520 transmission. All new bearings, seals, shift fork pads, cleaned, painted and assembled. $750.00 The second is a 525/555 transmission. '87/'88 555 input shaft and 1st thru 5th gearset along with the 3.56 final drive ratio of the 525 and all installed in an '87 525 case. All new bearings, seals, shift fork pads, cleaned, painted and assembled. $700.00 I have one moly plate left in stock that can be added to either transmission for the cost of the plate, $125.00 but I only have one so it's first come first serve on the moly plate. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Wiring Harnesses, Shifter cables, TII block, Cheap and free
Hi all, Got a garage full of stuff and it's just time to go. Here's a list of what I have sorted out now and much more to come. First off, emails only. If you post to the message board and not an email to me then you could miss out. Free heavy stuff you need to come get because I won't ship the stuff. '90 Daytona VNT underhood harness. Main harness, positive, negative, fuel rail and both headlamp harnesses. It's missing the short charge temp jumper. This harness has most relays and the VNT solenoid along with some of the vacuum harness $75.00 '85/'86 GLHT harness. Just the main underhood harness with no sub harnesses. It's a bit rough but if you had a fire or you converting this could be for you. $25.00 '86 GLHT/GLHS rear fuel pump harness $20.00 '87 G body TII underhood harness. Main harness only with no sub harnesses. Got a pair for $25.00 '88/'89 G body shift cables (ripped boots) for 520 and 555 transmissions $25.00 for the pair, got two sets. '89 CSX-VNT shifter cables. A nice working pair of P body cables (ripped boots too but they move smooth). $45.00 for the pair. '90 VNT Shadow 568 shifter cables $40.00 for the pair. '87/'88 TII bare block. STD bore and no cracks, Free come and get it. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS '89 2.5 TI motor and auto transmission.
Hi all, 2.5 TI motor, complete intake to pan, turbo and all pulled for a 112K minivan. Ran when removed and it's sitting in my minivan right now. Take them both for $200.00, they are loaded and I can meet you part way if you like, no more than 75 miles from my place in Enfield, CT. or 1/2 way if your less than that. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> question on head swap
Sato, Bring it to the dyno one day and I'll meet you down there. We can make adjustments while making pulls on the car. Haven't seen you in a while and I got a new '86 GLHS myself. Coming to the meeting tomorrow? Bring the car, I'm going to bring mine. Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 11/12/2005 1:51:48 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Great info. > If you're using a Square sprocket cam gear on a roller cam would you retard > or advance the cam by 4 degrees to start? > I am now running a Taft S2 roller cam and my GUESS was 4 degrees retarded > with my adjustable square tooth cam sprocket. I came to this conclusion as > most > said so. > I had heard from many experts and they had recommended a range of + to - 4 > degrees from zero but no one has concrete info. Obviously going to a dyno or > > drag strip would solve it but my problem was also a new brain on my Omni > Glhs. > I put in the Taft and the new TU cal. I put the cam at 4 degrees retarded > and > threw in the TU cal. Already the car seems faster than before but I do need > to dial it in. > Any recommendations on the cam timing? > Sato > Omni GLHS #037 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Parting out: '87 Shelby Lancer
Hi all, '87 Shelby Lancer car number 233, cloth, stick is getting parted out in the next week. The DEC77 is spoken for as is the Shelby valve cover and some misc. body stuff. Email me with your needs, don't post here, for loose and trim items not usually removed. Motor, trans, rad/cooler and all the big items will be pulled and available except the trans which I'll keep for a core. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 210 Shelby Posi and Shelby Roll Cage Pics's of 210 here: http://superdave369.home.comcast.net/86glhs/86glhs.html '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: 87 Shelby Lancer $1000.00 in CT.
Hi all, '87 Shelby Lancer number 233. 109K miles, Sold to Papa's Dodge here in Connecticut and had one owner. All the Shelby stuff intact and the DEX77 even works. Missing two center caps. Has the Stage 2 MP computer in the car. Tons of paper work from the dealer including the DEX77 users manuals and even the warranty cards. Here's the bad part. Has a CT salvage title, motor has blow by out the dipstick, skips and knocks. Car is a nice looking car and it looks like the damage was confined to the left front fender and maybe the facia but it's all been fixed and the owenr sold the car when it developed engine problems. This is the chance to buy the car before I part it out. Pickup only and the price is firm. Email me for pictures. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell Treasurer, NESDAC '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Carfax wanted
Steve, If you come up with someone let me know also please. Getting a Shelby Lancer and would like to run a car fax on it. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 9/1/2005 9:11:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hi all > > Would like a carfax run on one of my Dodge cars, will paypal > donation now. > > Later, Steve Harrity > http://my.fcc.net/~shelby/ > Triangle, Va > 86 GLHS #295 ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB '89 and later 2.2 cast crank
Hi all, Need an '89 and later common block cast crank. I don't want steel, I want a cast crank. Good standard condition please or fresh .010/.010 since I'll be cutting it any ways. Drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] . Please include a price and cost to ship to Enfield, CT. 06082 Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> 83/early 413 pump drive
Dean, What do you have for mounting pads on the drive side, three or four? With the lubuilt special, like an engine swap convertor. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 8/27/2005 10:53:50 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > OK I should know this but I need to ask incase anyone has recently done > this > you may have my answer > > I have a new convertor for my 89 413 cept it has early lug drive instead > of > the 2 flats. Is it the 83/84 pump I need to use and anything else required > to > use this pump in my later trans? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Exhaust studs Lok-tite or anti seize?
Thread sealer where the studs go into the head on the lower row, they go into water. Anti seize on the studs where the nuts screw on and nothing on the intake or other 4 exhaust studs. If you really feel strongly about Loctite then use the blue only. Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 8/23/2005 1:25:16 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hi All > Should I use Lok-tite or anti-seize on the exhaust studs and nuts? How > about > the intake bolts also? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS '85 GLHT TII car $1500.00
Hi all, Listing this for a friend so please contact Jim Dugan @ 860-833-2674 about the car and not me. Car is Located in Hartford, Connecticut. If you want pictures of the car, email me and I'll send them to you. 1985 GLHT Omni. Red with tan interior. Interior rough but comes with a complete replacement red interior including a new carpet. The body has some spots where it was repaired before and this is coming thru now but the floors look pretty solid as do the frame and firewall. Car has a sunroof and looks to be a dealer installed piece since the glass has an '85 date on it. Autometer 2 5/8 liquid filled boost gauge. '88 TII motor from Shelby Z rebuilt by me 35K ago. Rings, bearings, oil pump and screen, valve job, turbo rebuilt and all new hoses for the turbo. Ported FM exhaust manifold and the intake is port matched and opened up for a 52MM throttle body. Original 525 transmission rebuilt by me at the same time as the motor and new TII clutch package installed then. G body Rad/cooler setup installed with stock G body air box and hose setup modified for the L body. I made the overlay harnesses for the TII conversion and the car runs a MP GLHS stage 2 computer. 2.5" exhaust from the turbo to the bumper including a cat and stainless steel flo thru muffler from FM. MP 1" drop springs all the way around with KYB struts, all with less than 5K miles on them. 205-50-15 Avon ZZ2 tires, Z speed rated mounted on the original pizza wheels. Done at the same time as the struts and springs. Ball Joints, tie rod ends and rack replaced last year. Price is $1500.00 FIRM. If he can't get this he'll just keep driving the car. It needs some cosmetic work but the car flys and all the hard work is done. Remember contact Jim at the phone number above, not me. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html "Life's Journey is not to arrive at the grave safely in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting...Holy $hit!! What a Ride!!" ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> WTB: turbo hose
TI or TII? Guessing a TI hose for an '88 and later 2.2 or 2.5 TI car. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 8/21/2005 3:48:07 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > need the the hose that goes from the turbo to the T/B > [EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB: GLHS Radiator
Hi all, Looking for a radiator for my '86 GLHS. Need not have a good core but the tanks must be good. Will consider a rad/cooler assembly that needs a recore also. Please drop me an email if you can help out. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Chrysler factory Parts books '87 to '96
Hi all, Cleaning the attic I found three totes of Chrysler parts books I had stashed away. If your looking for a source for your part numbers and your dealer isn't much help this is your answer. There books have the hard plastic binders that are expandable. The '87 to '89 passenger car books cover the Shelby built cars also and the '91 to '93 cover the Spirit R/T and IROC R/T cars. All books are used as they came from a working dealer but were no longer needed. I have the following available, 1987 to 1996 Passenger car (all individual books) '88/'89 truck and van, '90 to 93 truck and van, '94/'95 truck and van, '94 to '96 truck, '87/'88 Import, '90 import, '91 import, '92 to '94 import, '91 to '93 Jeep and '95 Neon and '96 caravan. The books are priced as follows, '87 to '93 $100.00 ea. all the rest are $75.00 ea. Books are shipped free in the lower 48 states USPS media mail with delivery confirmation. I will ship outside the US, price for the books are the same but shipping charges apply. Payment preferred is Paypal and this is required for outside the lower 48 states. First to comit and send payment gets the book. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Trans Shim
Yes, but you need an L body specfic transmission mount for the car. Cliff Ramsdell '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 4/27/2005 7:30:50 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I am putting an auto in my L-body instead of the 525. Do I use the saem > stamped steel plate between the motor and trans? > > Thanks ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> a413 Tranny Question
Oh, I answered. Busy work and life so it takes a while. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/21/2005 4:45:34 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I did but he didnt reply. I think hes tired of my questions. I've > been asking too many questions I think. Just trying to learn. > > Eric . wrote: > > >ask Cliff > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > >On 4/21/05, Mike Fisher <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > > > > >>Does anyone know if there is a shim kit available from Mopar for > >>preloading the bearings in the diff, transfer shaft, and output shaft? > >>I have called 3 dealers, and they dont have a clue. I thought maybe > >>there might be a tranny guy out there that might know. Thanks! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> L body window trim repo?
Was this 2 door or 4 door trim? Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/21/2005 10:56:10 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Wasn't someone on this list having L body window trim remanufactured? > Please contact me. > Thanks > Jamie ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> WTB: 2.2 or 2.5 Turbo Engine
Brian, You should contact Richard Paul at [EMAIL PROTECTED] He has a complete motor from a low mileage (50 something K miles) Shelby Lancer. It's still in the car and I think you can hear it run still. Drop him an email but he might take a few to get back to you, he fly's and isn't always around. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 4/20/2005 8:12:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I am in need of a good running or rebuilt 2.2 or 2.5 Turbo engine for my > lancer. I am located in the South Central part of PA. If anyone within a > hundred miles or so has anything let me know... email me [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Thank you, > Brian ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> No Spark 89 CSX tried every thing.
Chris, Well, you changed a lot of parts but really walked around the possible problem. Have you checked for power at the coil when cranking the car over? There should be batter voltage at the positive side of the coil when cranking. Same voltage should be at the injectors, fuel pump too. The ASD relay sends voltage out on the green wire with the black tracer when the relay is energized by the SMEC. No voltage, go back to the ASD relay and check the red/white wire for battery voltage, this is the feed for the ASD relay. If you don't have battery voltage there it can be a bad fusible link. Are the injectors new or used? As for the hissing noise at the regulator, that's the fuel returning to the tank, don't pinch the line off as this is normal and you never hear it when your in the car. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 4/18/2005 3:06:49 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Im getting no spark at all. The car has been running fine, then I > changed out injectors with new Mopar Performance +20s, and now I have no > spark. > > Here is how things went down > > Install injectors and AFPR, go to start car...nothing...check every > thing I did againstill nothing > Check for Spark No spark from the Coil > Change out coil with known good unit...while changing, I here this > hissing sound from the fuel rail, sounding like my injectors are stuck > open, I pinch the fuel return line, and it stops. > Try to start her with new coil, and It locks upyup it hydro locked > from fuel > I pull the plugs and turn her over (with the injector harness unplugged) > and Fuel shoots out about 20 feet out of each plug hole a few times (wow > thats alot of fuel) I dry every thing out, and try again (with injector > harness pluged in) and still nothing, check for spark, still no spark. > So I go on a Checking spree. Replaced the ASD relay, checked the other > relays, checked all the fuseable links I could find with a test light, > Changed out Cap/Rotor/Pickup with known good units from my Shelby > Lancer, Still no spark. I try and pull codes, and I think I got a 42 or > a 43. Its hard to tell because the blinks are not consistent. > > Has any one had this happen to them. Is my computer gone? If so, how > would I go abouts getting another one. Im thinking about just getting > one from FWDP or TU and converting over to a true turbo2 setup anyways. > > Thanks guys, and let me know what you guys think, > Chris ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> TIII crank and rod options
You can use any '89 and later 2.2 crankshaft, cast or steel. You can also use any of the TII or 2.5 TI rods but remember that the R/T motor uses a non stretch rod bolt and all other 2.2 and 2.5 motors use a torque and stretch bolt so either get another TIII rod or replace the set with a set of TII/2.5 TI rods. I have a good TIII shortblock. It's apart and everything is standard size. I can sell it like this (you assemble it or use what you need) or assembled with new rings, bearings, oil pump, gaskets and seals (just drop it in and go) Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 4/17/2005 11:02:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hey everybody! I just spun a couple rod bearings in my > iroc r/t and chewed up my crankshaft and rods and was > wondering if the stock crank out of an 88' 2.2 TI > would work? or what other cranks and rods would work > in the TIII motor. > > Thanks for any help! ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> whole car
Ray, Might want to contact Richard Paul. He has a few different Td's and some are for sale. '86 GLHS, Spirit R/T are two I can think of off the top of my head. His email address is [EMAIL PROTECTED] but be patient as he's pilot for US air so he's on the go quite a bit. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 4/11/2005 8:14:49 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hello group > > I'm looking for a good 85- 92 TD. (that shouldn't be to hard to find). > > The catch: I'm in eastern PA and don't want to tow one more then a > couple of hours. If anyone is close and has one or even has any leads > that would help. > > Thanks alot gang > RAY > -- > ray <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Head Flaw? Chunk missing.
Bob, That a normal casting, nothing missing there. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 4/10/2005 5:20:23 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hi All > I pulled the head off my 90 Shelby Daytona tonight. There's a chunk of metal > missing in the 2nd or 3rd cylinder. It looks like it may have been like this > for a while. It looks like the gasket would cover this area without any > problems. I put a gasket in this car a few years ago and don't remember > seeing > this void. I have a link to a lot of pictures of it. These are larger files. > Sorry, I didn't have a chance to make them smaller. The 6th picture shows the > missing metal well. I will have to get a new head anyway. I found a lot of > cracks. I'm sure they aren't good. The gasket didn't blow in the normal area > (rear #1 cylinder) like most I've replaced. What do you think of these > pictures? > I'm curious to know how this happened or if it was always like this. The car > is stock running stock boost. > Link to pictures... http://amoparx.net/90head > > > > -- > Bob Doherty > Coon Rapids, MN. > > 90 Daytona Shelby VNT > 90 Daytona Shelby TI > 89 Daytona Shelby TII > 89 LeBaron GTC Convert TII > 86 Shelby Charger TI > 68 AMC AMX #5816 (Only Numbered > Car) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Update on seller scam
Jerry, Sorry to hear you got stiffed. Where is this guy located? I have been traveling quite a bit lately maybe he's on my way next time. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/7/2005 10:47:19 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hello to all list members, > I wrote to you earlier warning about sending money to Jason Holden > ([EMAIL PROTECTED] (mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]) ). Paypal > tried to > get my money back but was only able to retrieve a small portion. Please > don't send any money to this guy. Another list member was also ripped off > by the > same guy according to an email I received a few days ago. > Here is the reply I got from Paypal. > > (start copy) > Dear J. Caviani, > > We have concluded our investigation of your Buyer Complaint. The details of > this claim are listed below. > > We have decided in your favor, and as a result, have attempted to recover > funds from the seller. > The maximum amount we were able to recover was $6.12 USD. This amount has > been credited to your PayPal account. Please allow up to five business days > for this adjustment to be reflected in your PayPal account. > > If you are due any additional amount from the seller, we will make our best > effort to recover the balance from the seller. > > If the seller's account has insufficient funds to complete the refund owed > to you, please be assured that we will take appropriate action against the > seller's account, which may include limitation of the seller's account > privileges. > > --- > Details of Disputed Transaction > --- > Transaction Date: Mar 13, 2005 > Transaction Amount: -$40.00 USD > Seller's Name: Jason Holden > Seller's Email: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > (end copy) ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> 2.2 / 2.5 common block crank sprocket puller adaptor
Mat, It's not a Matco tool, it's a Miller/SPX tool that I said my Matco dealer can get instead of going thru the dealer channels for Miller/SPX tools. The Miller tool can take a beating, continues use over and over. I still have the original 4 bolt tool from '81 when it was released to the first dealer I worked for (they went out of business and allowed us to buy the tools when we left) and it still works great. I bought the 5 bolt tool in '88 and still use it today. Maybe the cost for some isn't worth the investment but when you need it, it's there every time without fail. Have your Matco guy give you a price on it. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/4/2005 1:59:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > how much from matco $$$ wise. i have matcos 2005 catalog and didnt see this > > type of tool listed. what is the matco tool part number?? i am already using > > this home made tool with excellent results so i dont need one myself. this > tool > is designed to work with existing harmonic balance pullers that most SDrs > have > in their tool box. snap on sells a tool for this 5 bolt application for over > > $80.00. from my own experience most SDrs dont want to spend $80 or more just > > for a tool that has one application. but if it is fairly cheap and can be > used > with existing tooling they already have then why not. > mat > Subj: Re: SD> 2.2 / 2.5 common block crank sprocket puller adaptor Date: 4/3/2005 9:48:53 PM Eastern Daylight Time From: MOPAR TEK To: Moparmat2000, shelby-dodge@sdml.org Mat, You know that Miller tools has the tool available. The original tool for the 4 bolt sprocket was C-4685 and there is a revised package that comes with the new tool C-4685-B1 and a complete kit that has the puller, bolts, the insert that drops into the crank hole so you don't bugger up the nose of the crank. My local Matco tool guy gets Miller/SPX tools, no problem. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/3/2005 8:16:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > hi all > i have a crank sprocket puller adaptor for the common block 2.2 / 2.5 > sprockets with the five bolt crank sprockets, also fits oddball 87/88 turbo > ll 2.2 > with square tooth 5 bolt crank sprockets. i made 2 of these as prototypes, > and i > have a patent applied for / patent pending on this item. i am selling one of > > them off since i dont need it anymore. i have it listed on ebay. this item > works super great. it doesnt damage the sprocket when pulling it either. the > > response i get on ebay, and its final aucton value $$ wise will determine > weather > or not i decide to go ahead and make these to sell to others in our SD > realm. > the auction number for this tool is Item number: 4540796613 > > please go to this page on ebay, look at this item and either bid on it if > you > want it for your tool box, or email me back and tell me what you think of > it, > tell me if you think its worthwhile pursuing to make and sell copies of > these. since they are machined of 1/2" steel plate they take some time for > me to > make. > > thanks > mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> 2.2 / 2.5 common block crank sprocket puller adaptor
Mat, You know that Miller tools has the tool available. The original tool for the 4 bolt sprocket was C-4685 and there is a revised package that comes with the new tool C-4685-B1 and a complete kit that has the puller, bolts, the insert that drops into the crank hole so you don't bugger up the nose of the crank. My local Matco tool guy gets Miller/SPX tools, no problem. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/3/2005 8:16:22 PM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > hi all > i have a crank sprocket puller adaptor for the common block 2.2 / 2.5 > sprockets with the five bolt crank sprockets, also fits oddball 87/88 turbo > ll 2.2 > with square tooth 5 bolt crank sprockets. i made 2 of these as prototypes, > and i > have a patent applied for / patent pending on this item. i am selling one of > > them off since i dont need it anymore. i have it listed on ebay. this item > works super great. it doesnt damage the sprocket when pulling it either. the > > response i get on ebay, and its final aucton value $$ wise will determine > weather > or not i decide to go ahead and make these to sell to others in our SD > realm. > the auction number for this tool is Item number: 4540796613 > > please go to this page on ebay, look at this item and either bid on it if > you > want it for your tool box, or email me back and tell me what you think of > it, > tell me if you think its worthwhile pursuing to make and sell copies of > these. since they are machined of 1/2" steel plate they take some time for > me to > make. > > thanks > mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Butch's '89 Shelby Daytona
Hi all, I'm posting this for Butch so any questions and such should be directed to him at butch.n @ comcast.net Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/2/2005 9:21:09 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: My 89 Daytona Shelby is for sale, again. Cliff just got done installing a new block as the old one got cracked from the person I sold it to last year. I bought the car back from the person I sold it to who evidently didn't, or couldn't take care of it properly as I couldn't see it going to the crusher. The engine is still a 2.5L common block. Car is located in eastern Mass. Pics are in the links below. 1991 large spline A568 with posi gone through by Cliff. It has a 4 puck clutch and TIII pressure plate I got from RP. +20 injectors. Adj. FPR. FM under drive pulley Ported intake & exhaust manifolds by Gary D. Exhaust manifold has hole in it for EGT gauge (included) Powder coated pretty much everything, including all 4 brake rotors, all 4 pumpers, Shelby valve cover, intake manifold & other misc. engine parts. Exhaust is 2.5" mandrel built (by Gary D.) exhaust with Dynomax hi flow cat (can be removed & "test" pipe put in place via 2 band clamps) & Hooker super comp muffler. Koni shocks/struts all around. Aside from the driver side motor mount the passenger side mount, front mount & bobble strut are from Johnny Spiva & are poly. Both T-top weather-strips are new as of 2 years ago. Car comes with extra driver enthusiast seat & spare set of T-tops. Downsides: Front tires will need replacing very soon (not smoked by me) Very small gouge in front lower G/E: http://home.comcast.net/~butchn/gouge.JPG I may get get it cleaned up & repaired by my pal if he's got time. Power mirrors & cruise don't work which I haven't had time to diagnose why. Here are pics as of 2 months ago when I bought it back, put it back together & drove it home: http://home.comcast.net/~butchn/89daytona.html The odometer reads 150 & some odd K miles. (15x,xxx) The engine did have 10K on it, but that is moot since the block has been replaced. The engine now has just under about 150 miles on it since the rebuild. Yes, the bearings & rings have been replaced as well. Here are some pictures I took last year before & after rust repair. Nothing except mileage, stereo, battery & the Dawes meter have changed. The PICS are HUGE so you can see detail so they will take a bit to load. Before: http://home.comcast.net/~butch.n/Daytona_close_ups.html After: http://home.comcast.net/~butchn/daytona_newpics.html As I wrote on those pages, I am listing all known "defects" as I am honest as possible so when someone buys anything from me they are not surprised & are satisfied with what they are buying. Email me direct: [EMAIL PROTECTED] if interested. Remember, at 19 psi with slicks this a mid 13 sec car, links here: When I achieved my 1st 13 sec run: http://home.comcast.net/~butchnn/beat_vette.rm And here was my best 13 sec run: http://home.comcast.net/~butchnn/butch_cecil_13_6.rm And of course, when "cleaned up", it's a show car as well! Link to all of my trophies: http://home.comcast.net/~my89shelby/allawards3.jpg I'm only asking $4K or best reasonable offer. Email me direct: butch.n @ comcast.net ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> L-Body Auto Tranny Mount
Stick or automatic? I have a selection of them because they are different from everything else. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 4/2/2005 12:36:01 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I am in need of an L-Body tranny mount. Before you say go to a parts > store or to the salvage yard, none of the parts stores sell the entire > mount, only the rubber replacement piece, and none of the salvage yards > have them around here either. So, who has one I can buy off them? Thanks. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Omni GLH
Location? Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 3/24/2005 7:16:02 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Picked up an 1986 Omni GLH 2.2 turbo, was wondering if anybody was looking > for one. It's silver, the body is pretty clean, doesn't need much work. > Interior is ok. Needs a tranny. There is a hole in this one. Make me a worth > > while offer, and I might deliver a little ways. > > Jeff ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Part number help
Chad, Mopar part number for the rotors is 4383487 Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 3/24/2005 2:03:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hi All > Im hoping that someone out there can help me with a part number. I have an > 89 Daytona CS. i have been looking for rear rotors and have been > unsuccesfull. > The rotors that i have are vented and have the wierd drum style ebrake that > fits inside the rotor hat. Everytime i explain this to people i get a look > from them like i have 12 heads. I have the old part number from that last > time > i did brakes but no one has heard of the company and the auto parts place i > went to got bought out by another company and they have different venders. > The > old rotors said Autospecialty and the part number is AR 8330. If anyone has > a cross reference number or a correct number from a well known company please > let me know. > Best Regards. > Chad ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: : Re: SD> oops, Which is the recommended head gasket?
Mat, Not to correct you but the plug is there because back in the old days of carburetors there was coolant controlled switch screwed into the top and side port (where the water tube for the turbo goes) that worked the air pump and EGR valve on these cars. One switch was open when cold allowing vacuum to the air pump and blowing air down stream into the cat to get it lit off and hot, then it switched upstream and put air into the exhaust manifold. The other switch interrupted the vacuum supply to the EGR valve when cold so you wouldn't have a stumble when the valve opened with a cold motor. When the turbo cars came out the side hole was used for the coolant return from the turbo and the top was plugged. Later castings removed the top plug all together although we still use the side port for turbo cars. As for bleeding, I found the best way was to use two wrenches and crack the upper coolant line for the turbo while the motor is running, the water pump pressure will force the air from the system here and you can do this while the car is warming up to be sure all the air is purged from the system. Another way to relieve the trapped air, use a 3/32 drill bit and drill a small hole at the top of the thermostat, this will allow trapped air to be released into the upper hose and back to the radiator. The hole is small enough to not effect the drivability of the car and most cars today have had so many changes over the years that it really won't matter. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 3/15/2005 9:04:19 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > dont forget to have him burp the air from the engine when refilling it with > > coolant to get the air out of the cylinder head. there is an allen key plug > in > the top of the water box on the head by the thermostat housing. this is for > this purpose. you pour coolant in till it reaches this hole, thread the plug > in, > then fill it the rest of the way up. this will lessen or eliminate the air > pocket in the head caused when having to refill the coolant in the engine. > > if the plug is frozen in there, and it may be from all these years, just > unthread the fan temp switch on the side of the waterbox on the head, and > use that > to bleed the air out. trapped air pockets in the cylinder heads will cause > hot spots and the head will crack. > > hope this helps > mat ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Empty trailer Hartford, CT to Minneapolis/St Paul, MN area
Hi all, I'm off on the road for another adventure. Going from home to Blackduck, MN, then south to Corning, IA and the back home to CT. I'm going to pick up some car parts and a car and will be running with an empty trailer from the Hartford/Springfield area here out to north of Minneapolis/St Paul, MN. If someone has a car the need hauled along the way I can do it for a reasonable fee. Motors, transmissions or other large items usably to costly to ship can also be moved too if the hookup time works with my travel schedule. We will be running 84 out of Hartford to Scranton, PA, picking up 81 south to hook up with 80 west. We'll take 80 all the way to IL and pickup 39 north. Take 39 north to MW and then pick up 90/94 and follow 94 into Minneapolis/St Paul. Since there are two of us we will run day and night as needed or necessary. Leaving Sunday Morning and plan on being back Thursday. Drop me an email if I can help you out. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> WHAT I NEED TO MAKE TURBO II CAR
Chris, You'll need a turbo motor, turbo automatic transmission (Yours might last a little while but not long), a complete underhood wiring harness from a '90/'91 Turbo Shadow or Sundance (Unless you good at making your own harness) '90/'91 turbo computer, turbo car fuel pump for the car, exhaust system for a turbo car and don't forget if they have emissions testing where you located that the VIN will show the car as being a TBI car and this could cause a problem is a visual inspection is required. Also, turn off the caps lock please. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 3/14/2005 4:59:47 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I HAVE A 91 SUNDANCE WITH AN AUTOMATIC AND 60K 2.5 NON TURBO ENGINE. I > GUESS > I WANT TO KNOW IF I CAN KEEP IT AN AUTOMATIC AND SWITCH TO A STOCK TURBO 2 > ENGINE FOR THE TIME BEING. ALSO WHAT WOULD I NEED AND WHO'S SELLING THEM > CHEAP. > I REALLY WOULD LIKE TO PUT A TURBO III IN IT BUT AFTER PARTING OUT MY TWO > R/T'S I KNOW WHAT THOSE PARTS GO FOR. > > ALSO LOOKING FOR BODY PARTS FROM A RED SHADOW GRILL, TURBO HOOD, AND REAR > HATCH W/ SPOILER AND FOR THE INTERIOR A SHELBY PLATE FOR THE DASH THE > BOOST > GAUGE AND IDIOT LIGHTS, > > IF ANYONE CAN HOOK ME UP I'M IN THE DETROIT AREA EMAIL ME BACK > > [EMAIL PROTECTED] ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> More stuff on ebay. Shelby, TIII, FSM's, Quaifesd
Hi all, More stuff geting cleaned out and on ebay. http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQfgtpZ1QQfrppZ25QQsassZmopartek Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: Hybrid Stick transmissions. 525/555, 520/555 & 523/568
Hi all, Spring is almost here in New England and I'm sure others of you are already racing this year. It's time to get things finished up on the cars and maybe a transmission was on your list to get done. First I want to say that there is free shipping in the lower 48 states on all hybrid transmission from now till March 11th. A hybrid transmission is a great choice for a light weight, high powered car or someone who is looking for lower cruising Rpm's on the highway but it take a bit more to get moving because of the higher gear ratio than a stock 555 or 568 so it's not the best choice for a stick minivan or other heavy, stock motor car. I have built and ready to ship a few hybrid transmissions that might fit your needs. All transmissions are rebuilt with new bearings, seals, shift fork pads and brass as needed. Here is a list of what I have. 525/555. This is an '87 525 case, 3.56 final drive ratio with an '87/'88 555 gearset and input shaft. It also uses the HD 555 shift forks. Transmission is a great choice for '86/'87 GLHS wanting an original look and GLHT and SC owners not wanting to cut up their car for a stronger transmission and having to install a cable shifter and custom or smaller late TBI axles. $675.00 no core needed. 520/555 This is an '87/'88 520, 3.50 final drive ratio with an '87/'88 555 gearset and input shaft. A nice upgrade if your already running a 520 in your turbo Shadow or have a 520 or 555 in your L body already. $750.00 no core needed. 523/568 Small spline input shaft transmission using a '90 568 gearset with a '90/'91 3.50 final drive ratio for a 523 transmission. If your using this transmission in an early application, '89 and older I will include a modified transmission mount for all applications including L bodies. $850.00 no core needed. 523/568 Large spline input shaft transmission using a '91 R/T 568 gearset and input shaft with a '90/'91 3.50 final drive ration for a 523 transmission. If your using this transmission in an early application, '89 and older I will include a modified transmission mount for all applications including L bodies. $900.00 no core needed. I have shifters & cables also available for the 520/555 and 523/568 transmissions '89 short 555 shifter and cables, G body application $40.00 with transmission '90 and later P&A body shifter and cables $40.00 with transmission. OK, a few short rules about the purchase. First come first served. Payment can be either paypal (add 4% for paypal fees, sorry) or US Postal Money order. If your sending a money order it needs to be sent priority mail with delivery confirmation, too many "lost" payments lately not making it here in a timely fashion. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> WTB: 543 Trans. New England, NY, NJ area.
Hi all, I need a 543 transmission for a customer. Prefer a '90/'91 with the 3.50 FD ratio but will take what ever. I don't care about how it shifts, grinds or what ever. I'll even take one that's blown up inside just no case damage to the transmission or diff cover. Drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] with what you have, where it's at and what you want. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Cam Seals
OK, you can either hit the Mopar dealer (best choice, it will fit and work) and ask for part number 4343903 which is the cam plug used on the later applications or try you local parts store and get one for and '89 and later 2.5 turbo. I know they used it on earlier applications but this one is a sure shot with the local parts stores. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 2/8/2005 6:26:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Sorry for the lack of info... > > 2.2 1985 Block and 1985 287, 8v Head. T1 converted to TII. No air > pump. For this engine there are three identical seals, forward and > aft cam seals and intermediate shaft seal. > > Can anyone provide a cam cap part number or picture? I don't think > I've ever seen one so I don't know what to look for when I ask for > one. > > Thanks again, > > RGC > > > -- Forwarded message -- > From: Chris Holmes <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Date: Mon, 07 Feb 2005 20:24:32 -0800 > Subject: Re: SD> Cam Seals > To: Robert Carita <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, SDML > > > I Have always used Caps. The Cam seals are the same as the front main > seal, but the cam spins the wrong way to use the seal on the drivers > side. I have never gotten a "cam seal" to seal on that side, I'v always > used to Cam Cap type seals. > > > Chris > > > Robert Carita wrote: > > >Can someone please tell me how to properly install a cam seal. I'm > >chasing a leak on the drivers side cam seal (cylinder 4). I just > >bought a new seal today and I installed it. I used a large socket and > >a pipe clamp across the valve cover. After tightening the clamp, I > >hit the clamp end with a hammer and repeated the process. Overall, I > >think the final seal immersion was ~.240. I started it up and the > >seal spun. > > > >Overall depth of the cavity is ~.585. The small step starts about > >~.460 deep. The seal is .300 wide. My immersion of .240 gives me > >about a .045 gap between the seal and the cam. It is well into the > >small step. > > > >Has anyone else had issues with getting these seals to work. The > >passenger's side seal is different in that it does not have the small > >step. The small step is about .035 high (.070 difference in diameter > >between the two radii. > > > >For now, I clamped and hit it somemore. I also packed the OD with > >RTV, basically filling the cavity. I used a small screwdriver to > >uncouple the cam shaft from the RTV 'plug'. > > > >Thanks, > > > >RGC ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Cam Seals
Chris, That's not correct, the rear cam seal is a different Mopar part number. The front seal is a 4105395 and it's the same seal that's used for the oil pump intermediate shaft and '81 to '88 2.2 front crank seals. The rear cam seal is either a 4105396 or 4105397 depending on weather the head has and oversize journal where the seal sits or not. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 2/8/2005 12:04:30 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I Have always used Caps. The Cam seals are the same as the front main > seal, but the cam spins the wrong way to use the seal on the drivers > side. I have never gotten a "cam seal" to seal on that side, I'v always > used to Cam Cap type seals. > > > Chris > > > Robert Carita wrote: > > >Can someone please tell me how to properly install a cam seal. I'm > >chasing a leak on the drivers side cam seal (cylinder 4). I just > >bought a new seal today and I installed it. I used a large socket and > >a pipe clamp across the valve cover. After tightening the clamp, I > >hit the clamp end with a hammer and repeated the process. Overall, I > >think the final seal immersion was ~.240. I started it up and the > >seal spun. > > > >Overall depth of the cavity is ~.585. The small step starts about > >~.460 deep. The seal is .300 wide. My immersion of .240 gives me > >about a .045 gap between the seal and the cam. It is well into the > >small step. > > > >Has anyone else had issues with getting these seals to work. The > >passenger's side seal is different in that it does not have the small > >step. The small step is about .035 high (.070 difference in diameter > >between the two radii. > > > >For now, I clamped and hit it somemore. I also packed the OD with > >RTV, basically filling the cavity. I used a small screwdriver to > >uncouple the cam shaft from the RTV 'plug'. > > > >Thanks, > > > >RGC ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Cam Seals
OK, maybe some information on what your working on. Motor? Car? Stuff like that. If it's a 2.2 or 2.5 SOHC motor maybe use the cam plug from the later 2.2/25 motor instead of a normal seal that's only needed on the early carb cars for the air pump. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 2/7/2005 10:54:30 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Can someone please tell me how to properly install a cam seal. I'm > chasing a leak on the drivers side cam seal (cylinder 4). I just > bought a new seal today and I installed it. I used a large socket and > a pipe clamp across the valve cover. After tightening the clamp, I > hit the clamp end with a hammer and repeated the process. Overall, I > think the final seal immersion was ~.240. I started it up and the > seal spun. > > Overall depth of the cavity is ~.585. The small step starts about > ~.460 deep. The seal is .300 wide. My immersion of .240 gives me > about a .045 gap between the seal and the cam. It is well into the > small step. > > Has anyone else had issues with getting these seals to work. The > passenger's side seal is different in that it does not have the small > step. The small step is about .035 high (.070 difference in diameter > between the two radii. > > For now, I clamped and hit it somemore. I also packed the OD with > RTV, basically filling the cavity. I used a small screwdriver to > uncouple the cam shaft from the RTV 'plug'. > > Thanks, > > RGC ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> I'm back, and I have a favor to ask...
Chris Papademetrious, is that you? How have you been, long time no see or talk. Drop me an email if you get a sec. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 2/2/2005 3:41:00 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hello everyone! I'm sure most of you old-timers remember me. :) I > used to be an active member in the Shelby Dodge community, but fell out > of circulation when my 86 GLHS developed some problems which took her > off the road a few years ago. My poor GLHS has been hiding in my garage > on four flat tires, but safe from rain and the elements. Now I am > hoping that rejoining the lists will help get me motivated to restore > her to her glory days. > > I do have one pressing matter that I'm hoping the Shelby Dodge community > can help me out with. I purchased a Super 60 harness from Matt Green in > November 2003 (check cashed on 11/17/2003). The plan was for him to > swing by my house when he attended a hillclimb in my area, which never > happened. On September 14 2004, I sent him an email saying that he may > as well just ship me the harness, and to let me know what I owed him for > shipping. I never got a response to that email. > > Over the past five months, I have been sending him emails but with > absolutely no response. (This was the same email address which worked > great when he was telling me where to send the check.) A couple months > ago, I began calling the M2 Racing phone number in the hopes of > contacting him. None of my calls have been returned, despite leaving my > home phone number repeatedly. The M2 Racing answering message also > provides Matt's cellphone number for "emergency" use. A few weeks ago, > I began calling his cellphone as well. Despite repeated messages, I > have not received any response whatsoever. > > The irony of this is, a friend of mine went through this exact same > thing for over a YEAR. He warned me to get the harness as quickly as I > could. I told him that I've been roommates with Matt and he would never > do that to me. Well, here I am, asking the community for help. I can't > afford to spend another 7 months trying to pull him out of hiding to get > something I've already paid for a year and some months ago. I am hoping > that someone will have some suggestions on what course of action to take > next. > > To everyone in the community, it's nice to be back among friends. I > look forward to learning just how far these cars have come in the last > few years. > > And Matt, if you're reading this, you are doing your company and your > image a substantial disservice. We are a small community. Word > travels. I suggest you contact me. You have my number. > > - Chris ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> common block Qs
Mat, 2.2 and 2.5 use the same size bore, 3.445 is standard size. The difference is stroke, 3.62 for the 2.2 and 4.09 for the 2.5 The piston difference is because the pin is farther up the piston and the skirt is removed on a 2.5 for crank throw clearance. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/31/2005 8:31:43 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > hi all > i know the 89 up common block 2.2s and 2.5s used the same block, same rods, > different crank, and different pistons right?? > > heres the deal i want to build a 2.5 turbo short block for my beater. i can > score a free common block 2.2 N/A short block from my buddy that runs the > local boneyard. pistons are rusted into the bores. i figured the 2.5 setup > would use a larger diameter piston, and boring the block to fit the bigger > slugs would clean out the whole mess and give me a good bore. i know about > what i need to machine or change to turbo it. > my question is can you bore out a 2.2 common block to fit the 2.5 slugs??or > are the bore diameters the same for the 2.2 and 2.5 common blocks > thanks > mat ml ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> FS: NOS lower intercooler hose
They come to me usually. ;~P Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/31/2005 11:22:28 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > What do some of you do when you can't find an intercooler hose > replacement? > > -J Southern California Forced Induction ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Anyone in Eastern MA?
Sounds like you got things covered pretty well. Since you have good compression we'll go with the fact the timing belt should be on or close. What I would do is pull the number 1 spark plug, bump the motor over till compression blows your finger out (Need to do the a key bump at a time to come up slow on TDC but not go past it) When it starts to push your finger out of the hole, turn the motor over till you see the TDC make line up in the flywheel hole. With TDC confirmed in the timing window, check and see if the hole in the cam sprocket is at 12:00, if so the cam is good. Now pull the cap off and see where the rotor is pointing to, should be somewhere around 10:30 if everything is correct. The distributor turn in a clockwise rotation and the firing order is 1-3-4-2. One last thing is the plugs, new or old? Get a new set of Champs and drop them in because spark plugs can cause a ton of grief if they are an old set you have. Still stuck, drop me an email, I'm not far from you and if you van get the car out here we can get it running for you. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/30/2005 5:37:17 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > and want to help me get my omni running? > > I'm stuck. I just upgraded to a TII and I can't get the motor > started. I've tried everything. > > See here: > http://www.turbododge.com/forums/showthread.php?t=76252 ARGH!!! TII Conversion Won't Start I just finished buttoning up my Omni conversion to a TII and on my first try to start the beast it won't start. Here are some details, please help if possible: 85 TI converted to a TII, 85 Block, 86 GLHS TU Cal with 14.5 psi boost, 4 wire O2, TII TPS and AIS, and 86 distributor/HEP. Initially, I had set the base timing to zero: crank, cam, and distributor. This was because the head was off and I did a cam swap. (Crack and Harmonic balancer aligned, #1 cylinder at TDC, distributor pointing at #1, distributor keyway parallel to block, and flywheel mark at zero degrees). (Actually, because I switched to a roller cam setup from the slider cam, I set the cam timing ahead 4 degrees, but essentially back to zero) Engine cranks, no missing, no sputtering, nothing. I was able to time the car with my wife cranking the starter. With the timing light powered from cylinder 1, coolant temp unplugged, I was able to get the timing mark on the flywheel at 12 degrees by rotating the distributor. Again, no start. All I get is an occasional boom out the tail pipe. Next I tried the basics...check for spark at the coil wire...good, check for spark at plug 1...good. Still no starting. Checked compression...cylinder 1... a little over 100psi. It was one of the older push in place compression gauges. I didn't have my newer screw-in gauge with me. Not too worried about the low-ish number, I didn't let it crank much, just wanted to confirm there was some compression. I started the build with a new set of RN9YC's, after a bunch of cranking, they show no fouling or any sign of combustion/ingnition. In fact, they look too good. I only looked at 1 and 4, though. Really, there was not sign of fuel or any discoloration. Next fuel...audible from the fuel pump with the key on...check...loosen hose clamp on main feed in engine bay...got sprayed...check. Next, I pulled up the fuel rail freeing the injectors from the manifold...definitely fuel getting into the manifold. The fact that I am occasionally backfiring means that fuel is getting into the cylinders??? Also, Garage air was thick with fuel vapors. I'm convinced this is a timing issueI've got spark, compression, air, and fuel...just not in the right sequence. I have my wife click the starter around until the timing mark become visible in the viewing window (at approximately 6 degrees). I pulled off the cap and confirmed that it was pointing toward #1, pulled out the #1 plug and did the screw driver test to see where the piston is...TDC. This should confirm that the timing is atleast close...also the fact that I am able to time it to 12 degrees while running off the starter should also tell me I am not 180degrees off. Just to be sure, I removed the distributor, and rotated it 180 degrees and reinstalled, still nothing. LM throws no codes other than 12, 33, 53 and 55...all expected. (33 no A/C, 53 normal for a custom cal) What am I forgetting? Would a (massive) vacuum leak cause the car not to start? I have spark, which means the HEP is working, correct? Are my assumptions about being timed correctly okay? Cold and frustrated... ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Part number needed
Rick, 5277796 is the part number for the G & J bodies and 5277797 is the number for the P body hose. There was also a TSB released December 31 1990 concerning overboost conditions with the VNT cars. TSB 18-36-90 included a solonoid, upper and lower intercooler hoses and a BOV (Called a bypass valve in the TSB) Part numbers for the kits were 5277872 for the G & J cars and 5277971 for the P body cars. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/30/2005 11:41:39 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Can someone with a 1990 Daytona, Lebaron, or Shadow VNT please tell me what > > their upper intercooler hose part number is? > > You can email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Thanks! > Rick ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> Re:
OK, first of all you need to have the baro read solenoid connected, not running straight from manifold vacuum to the sensor. Is this a new problem? Change any parts to make it come up lately? Map sensor supply hose comes off a Tee that feeds vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator and the MAP sensor solenoid only. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/28/2005 5:24:20 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > K peeps, code 13 is flashing. Mechanic says he has a direct manifold > hose running to the MAP sensor. Car is bucking, throwing check engine > (that's how I knew to check the code). > > How can we test the map sensor? Or is it hooked up right? > > I'm not able to be there, he doesn't have internet, and I'm trying to > help him. > > -J Southern California Forced Induction ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> white valve covers
As Richard stated, Chrysler never used a white valve cover new from the factory, period. I have followed this thread some and having worked at a dealer from the time the first turbo cars came out in '84 all the way till last year I have seen the full range of factory turbo cars come thru the dealer both new and for service, TI, TII, TIII, VNT and the occasional Mazi powered cars. Never a white valve cover, not one at all. The later covers starting around '89 would turn white with age and cleaning but they came new a silver finish. Hope this helps to dispel the urban myth being started here. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '29 Model A, 239 flathead V-8, 3 speed [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/26/2005 8:34:56 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > This is another picture of an old flat silver valve cover. This is what > the silver color on the later engines looks like when it gets old. > I have been looking at these since they were new cars. As the engines > have aged the color goes to this flat silvery white color. They were > never white new. The early valve covers the paint falls off, the later > ones turn out like these. > > > > > Richard Paul > 91 Spirit RT > 86 GLHS #45 > 86 GLHS #63 > 86 GLHS #499 > 89 Caravan Turbo (T3 568, under construction) > 96 B350 Maxi van > > > > Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2005 03:22:59 EST > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: SD> Factory white turbo valve covers > > My aunts orignal owner 89 Daytona ES > 97K orignal.. never been modded heck, If she didnt need > to put > gas in it, it wouldnt happenLOL went to her place > to fix > a few vacuum leaks because she was gettin the power loss light action > and > the vac lines are starting to crack.. > > here ya go.. > _http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/552000-552999/ > 552383_43_fu > ll.jpg_ > (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/552000-552999/ > 552383_43_full.jpg) > I wiped it with a rag.. > _http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/552000-552999/ > 552383_44_fu > ll.jpg_ > (http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/12/web/552000-552999/ > 552383_44_full.jpg) > > the picture of the backside didnt turn out legable, has some sort of old > decal on the the back that oil and other crap has made it unreadable, > all the > edges are starting to peel off so I pulled a bit more off, white.. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> 1990 2.2L engine block question
Jarvis, Original application motors (Ones installed in cars new from the factory and not service replacement motors) have a VIN number stamped into the block. The location is on the end of the block just above the bellhousing and below the cylinder head. The last eight digits of your VIN should be stamped there. If you fins something else, it's not the correct motor. The VNT motor along with the TII and the 2.5 TI motors all use the same rods, it's the crank and pistons that are different. Since your car is a '90 VNT it would have balance shafts stock like the 2.5 turbo motor and the TIII motors so that's not a way of telling and you can use a 2.5 block as a replacement for the stock 2.2 VNT block. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 1/25/2005 10:23:06 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Good Afternoon, > > I have an interesting question concerning 1990 2.2L VNT engine blocks. > > I have mine in being rebuilt at the moment, and my builder thinks that I > actually have a 2.5L engine. He is not a MoPar guy, so I want to run this > by the group. > > The car is a 1990 Dodge Daytona Shelby 2.2L VNT. I purchased the car when > it had 56K miles about 7 years ago. It now has 183K miles. The engine bay > looked unmolested at that point, but I can't absolutely guarantee that it's > the original block, though I strongly believe that it is. > > The engine has balance shafts. He ordered 2.2L pistons and could not get > them to fit because of the location of the wrist pin. The pistons would sit > proud of the block by a couple thousandths when using the original rods. My > engine builder called the Chrysler Tech guys (don't know number) who > confirmed that he had a 2.5L. He ordered 2.5L pistons and they fit > correctly with my existing rods. He did not retain the length measurements > of the rods themselves, and the block is back together now. > > Here's the numbers I have: > VIN: 1B3XG74C6LG439825 > - The C indicates a 2.2L VNT engine, correct? > > Engine Serial Number (as read off by engine builder): 4313130 > - (the second 3 and, I think, the first 1 might be > suspect). > Casting Date: 11/15/89 > Day Shift > "Clock" Points at 3. > > Is there a way to verify that this really is a 2.2L VNT, or is it a 2.5L > that was put into a VNT setup? > > My understanding is that the 1990 VNT engines were all 2.2L common blocks > with balance shafts. > > On a related note, our 1990 Lebaron GTC (VNT engine) is a 2.2L. I sent that > engine to the same builder a year and a half ago when it broke a piston > skirt. That engine was definitely a 2.2L and the builder never had any > questions. However, that engine did not have balance shafts. And, as an > aside, you can tell. It noticeably does not run as smoothly as the > Daytona's engine. I believe that the GTC had an early build date (I was > told it was an early exec car, but I don't have that date with me). My > current guess is that it had an earlier 2.2L installed with the VNT. It's > also possible that the Lebaron was molested before we purchased it at 70K > miles. > > I would like to verify what I have and would also like to make sure that the > pistons that are in the Daytona's block are correct (it wouldn't surprise me > if the pistons are the same between the 2.2 and 2.5 common blocks anyway). > So, do I have a 2.2L or a 2.5L in my 1990 Daytona Shelby VNT? Thanks! > > later... > Jarvis ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> '84 Turbo-Z Tranny
If the car is a stick it would be a 525 and if it's an auto it would be a 413. Be fore warned that the early 413's (Before '87) had small spline diff assemblies and the '85 and older used the old style front pump with dogs instead of flats to drive the convertor and the convertor only had 3 bolts fastening it to the flywheel Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 1/25/2005 8:50:21 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > What transmission should be in an '84 Turbo-Z T1 ? > I have the opportunity to get the whole car with a blown motor, for nothing. > Thanks. > Gregg Freyland > '83 Rampage "Shelbyized" T-2 (under construction) > '87 Charger Shelby Edition T-1 plus ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Shelby Dakota Wheel Bolt pattern?
Steve, Nope, won't fit. The Dakota has a 5x4.5 bolt pattern with a very deep offset wheel to the inside. The van you have runs a 5x5.5 but you can use wheels from the late Ram trucks with no problem. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 1/25/2005 12:24:37 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Good Evening. > There's a set of White Shelby Wheels on Ebay. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&; > item=4521620754& > category=34209 > I thought they'd be intesting on my B250 97 Shelby Hauler Van > > Would they fit? > > > Rock &Roll with a Shelby or two.. or THREE) > Steve and Dee Kalmes ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> T2 Upgrade Parts
Mike, I have a stock G body rad/cooler assembly that will fit into your L body. I also have a fan assembly from a 3.0 A body that works great for intercooling an L body (it's thin) I have stock air box and hoses complete and might have a fuel rail but no injectors. Got a 2.5 down pipe but no swing valve. Drop me an email with you address and we can discuss the pricing and shipping. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. How Chrysler built it. '86 GLHS 065 2.2 TIII, 568. How Shelby would have built it. '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568. How I built it. [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/14/2005 10:17:52 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hey all, > > I am looking for some cheap parts to do a T1 to T2 upgrade on an 85 > Charger. I already have the TB, Intake and Exhaust manifolds. I am > needing an intercooler (doesnt matter if its stock or not, cause I will > be mounting it in the facia, unless someone has a complete rad/ic > assembly that I can make fit), intercooler hoses, fuel rail for a 1 > piece intake, 804 or similar injectors, injector harness, and airbox (or > I might just use a cone filter). I am ordering the computer from TU > (unless someone happens to have a stock 87 GLHS LM laying around, then I > can upgrade later). Also, a 2.5" swingvalve and downpipe would be > great, but I dont necessarily need them yet. Please help me out if you > have any junk laying around you dont want anymore. Its hard to afford > this stuff with a little boy, so I am just scavaging... Thanks for you > help! > > Mike ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> 85 T1 engine / T2 Induction setup, what parts to go with?
Most likely it has the 10mm hardware but some of the late built '85's had 11's, need to pull the valve cover and find out. Run the P4452005 TI headgasket. It's a non cross drilled gasket and is the one you should be using. The L body pump housing doesn't have a water nipple on the back of the pump housing (it was on the radiator tank) and the G body one dose. If your going to use a G body rad/cooler you'll want the G body pump housing because the nipple for the heater system, and don't block the heated hoses off either. Water circulation is needed when the motor is running between times when the thermostat is open to keep the motor cool or the temp will spike when the thermostat is closed. No heater, loop the hose ends together. Nope, the rubber gasket set only fits the '86 to '88 2.5 and the '89 and later motors but not the '88 and earlier 2.2's. Don't ever use the cork, chuck it and just use the end seals with RTV on the pan. Chrysler never made it to use cork and they will crack, split and leak. Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/8/2005 10:44:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I have a 85 T1 engine from a Turbo Z that im using for my 84 Rampage.. > Would this have the 10mm or 11mm headbolts? > What mopar performance head gasket should I run.. > stock T1 head w/T2 component buildup (GLHS style) > also any differences in the water pump housings G body vs. L body? > I had a common block in my other L body and had a sweet 1 piece pan > gasket.. > Went to the parts store and all they had were the cork gaskets listed.. >Anyone have a 1 piece pan gasket on a 88 and older engine? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Swap the whole engine?
Rob, I guess Matt never built a hybrid motor (I have built two so far). The head bolt holes are in the same location as a 2.2 and 2.5 block, same with the bore size and spacing. Swapping in the complete motor and trans would require either stand alone electronics or using the SRT4 stuff (The stock stuff isn't the best either) and if you know anything about wiring with the new Chryslers if you don't have every module and sensor connected and working on the bus then the "check engine" lamp will be on and the motor will not run at 100%. Another problem is the NV850 uses larger spline axles than the Td's we have so you'll have to fab up a set of axles, transmission and motor mounts to make it fit. Building the Hybrid motor costs about $3500.00 in total parts and machine work (no assembly labor or core parts like block, crank, head, etc.:) including a turbo (TO4E 60 trim), manifolds and all the related items in the car and running. Doing this setup lets you bolt it into any Dodge platform, use either the 555, 568 or a built auto, run Chrysler electronics (We used '88/89 SMEC electronics) the stock distributor works just fine in the block and on a 2.5 hybrid Scott made over 350WHP and 370WTQ with a stock, unported Neon head. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. How Chrysler built it. '86 GLHS 065 2.2 TIII, 568. How Shelby would have built it. '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568. How I built it. [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 1/7/2005 10:24:38 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > All - > > I've read a lot about the 16V conversion. Why not swap the whole engine and > > transmission? I'm not knocking you guys that have done a 16V head swap > only, but is there anyone who has done this swap that has had resonable > reliability? I mean if you buy an drivetrain from a 2003 up SRT it even > comes with a quaif (sp?) already in it. It seems like it would take some > time to covert the electronics but it would save a lot of money in > machining. I talked to Matt Youngin' about it one time. He said you even > have to oval some of the head bolt holes too. The stock 16V neon drivetrain > > has to be reliable or no one would buy it. > > Rob ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: New Shelby Lancer, Shelby Z TII Radiator
Hi all, I have a radiator with a brand new recore, 3 row HD that fits an '87 to '89 Shelby Z Daytona, '87 Shelby Lancer, '88/'89 Lancer Shelby or the '89 Lebaron GTC and GTS TII cars. Can also be used in the '84 to '89 cars except L & S bodies with a stock intercooler if you want to intercool your car. This is fresh, unused that I had done by mistake. I grabbed the wrong radiator core for my GLHS for the shelf and had the this one done. $250.00 shipped to any address in the lower 48 states and I'll split the shipping cost to our friends to the north. Drop me an email at [EMAIL PROTECTED] if your interested. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS '89 Turbo Spirit, Silver
Hi all, 1989 turbo spirit, 2.5 auto, buckets and console shift. Silver with silver interior. OK shape, nothing great for the miles. Base car, not an ES but has the egg shell wheels. I bought this car earlier this year. 19x,xxx miles, low oil pressure but runs and drives. I'll get some pictures this week when I get it home, it's been sitting in Rockville all year. $200.00 and it's yours, just what I paid for it. Car is located in Enfield, CT. and if your traveling a distance I would bring a dolly or trailer and not drive the car home. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> TII, TIII, Shelby Lancer and CSX-VNT parts
Hi all, Happy Holidays to everyone. I have more items listed on Ebay with more coming before Christmas. TII, TIII, Shelby items and more so please check them out here http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZmopartekQQsorecordsperpageZ25QQsosortpropertyZ1 Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Part numbers for SLH minivan calipers
Mike, '84 to '90 minivan with 14" wheels. That is the correct application for the calipers, brackets, pads and the rotors for the SLH brake upgrade Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 12/15/2004 9:24:16 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Hi all, I need some part numbers. I want to just go to NAPA and order > these > brand new, but I want to make sure that I don't end up with the wrong > calipers. > > I'm looking for part numbers for the proper caliper that goes with the SLH > front upgrade. The big minivan fronts. > > Any help is appreaciated. > > Mike ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Turbo Caravan 2.5 Balance Shaft
The threaded hole was from the balance shaft housing, one of the retaining bolts. The 1/4" hardened bolt is a slight press fit, I would say snug but not too hard. A cheap bolt will be a loose fit so use a quality fastener, seems to make a difference. No pan clearance issues, works great. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 12/15/2004 8:26:33 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > That has to be the simplest method I've seen. How tight is the bolt shaft? > > And what is the threaded hole for that you put the 'retainer' bolt and > washer in? Does the pan clear it well? > - Original Message - > From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>; <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Wednesday, December 15, 2004 7:03 AM > Subject: Re: SD> Turbo Caravan 2.5 Balance Shaft > > > >Chris, > >OK, here you go. Removing them is just as easy as pulling the oil pan then > >just cut the old chain from the balance shaft assembly and follow these > >directions for plugging the oil feed hole > >http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopartek/balanceplug.html > > > >Cliff Ramsdell > >VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com > >'91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD > >'86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" > >'86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] > >http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html > > > >In a message dated 12/15/2004 1:45:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, > >[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > > > >>i tried searching through the archives but the search function is down, > >>so > >>i'm sorry if this topic has been covered. i have an 89 turbo dodge > >>caravan > >>and would like to remove the balance shaft. i have searched on the > >>internet > >>for any info but not much is available. my haynes guide says it will be > >>an > >>in-depth task but im not sure. i want to know if any of you have removed > >>the shaft without removing the engine. i think i can get it out with just > >>removing the oilpan but wanted some other input. any help will be greatly > >>appreciated. > >> > >>thanks again, > >> chris ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Turbo Caravan 2.5 Balance Shaft
Chris, OK, here you go. Removing them is just as easy as pulling the oil pan then just cut the old chain from the balance shaft assembly and follow these directions for plugging the oil feed hole http://www.hometown.aol.com/mopartek/balanceplug.html Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 12/15/2004 1:45:58 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > i tried searching through the archives but the search function is down, so > i'm sorry if this topic has been covered. i have an 89 turbo dodge caravan > and would like to remove the balance shaft. i have searched on the internet > for any info but not much is available. my haynes guide says it will be an > in-depth task but im not sure. i want to know if any of you have removed > the shaft without removing the engine. i think i can get it out with just > removing the oilpan but wanted some other input. any help will be greatly > appreciated. > > thanks again, >chris ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Caliper
Jim, Two things here. One, it's almost impossible to find good calipers with the parking brake assembly that's part of the caliper, it's just a crap design. Two, it might not be frozen. Most people over look the fact that you can't press this piston back in on this style caliper. There is a plug on the back of the caliper, remove the plug and use a 4.5 mm Allen wrench and turn the adjuster so the caliper piston backs off. When finishing up a break job the correct adjustment is to tighten it back down snug so the rotor can't turn and back off the adjuster 2/3 of a turn. If you already knew this and it's bad, sorry for the long winded email. If you need a caliper they are expensive. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 12/3/2004 2:32:44 PM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Needing to find a Right Rear Caliper for my 87 Dodge Daytona, 2.2 TII > Its the 2 pin mounting. > I have 2 of then here but both are froze up. > > Please reply with Price if you have one cheaper then the crooked parts store > ! > > thx Jim. ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> TIII parts on ebay. New, Used and NS1 stuff
Hi all, I have a bunch of TIII items listed on ebay now. Some going off in a day or so and others in a week. You can find a complete list here http://search.ebay.com/_W0QQgotopageZ1QQsassZmopartekQQsorecordsperpageZ25QQsosortorderZ1QQsosortpropertyZ1 Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> Carslisle
Yep, the Carlisle All-Chrysler Nationals is going to be July 8-10 Hope this helps. Cliff Ramsdell In a message dated 11/20/2004 2:13:34 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > Anyone know when Carlisle is this year?? ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
Re: SD> 86 GLHS Omni #002 located
Dave, Fitzgeralds in Laconia, NH got all the #2 cars except the '88 CSX-T. I used to own '89 Shelby Dakota #2 and it was indeed from Fitzgeralds. '86 GLHS #2 was shipped to Fitzgeralds on 6/05/86, invoice number 01-103. Last six of the VIN, 250151. Is this car still located in the New England area? I know that '87 GLHS #2 is owned by Bill Hazelton in VT and another local guy has '87 CSX #2 still also. Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. SOLD '86 GLHS 065 Going back to stock "appearing" '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568.SOLD [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html In a message dated 11/17/2004 10:26:59 AM Eastern Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: > I just had a new customer call me today discussing the restoration of his > recently acquired 1986 GLHS. While we were talking about it I discovered > that > according the dash plaque it was #002. > > I know the #001 edition of each of the numbered cars was set aside for > Shelby's personal collection and the special nature of the 86 GLHS #001. > I've > heard the story behind the first handful of numbered cars is that they were > typically set aside for personal friends of Carroll's and I wanted to see if > anyone knew the unique story of the #002 car such as who it went to and it's > history. > > I believe it may have been sent to his old friend at Fitzgerald Dodge in > Laconia, NH. > > David Salamone ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
SD> FS: '86 GLHT
Hi all, Posting this for a friend. Please contact him, not me with any and all questions about this car. His contact information is contained in the email attached below. Thanks, Cliff Ramsdell VP New England SDAC www.sdacne.com '91 Spirit R/T 2.2 TIII, 568. How Chrysler built it. '86 GLHS 065 2.2 TIII, 568. How Shelby would have built it. '86 K-Car Wagon 2.5 TIII, 568. How I built it. [EMAIL PROTECTED] http://www.members.aol.com/mopartek/home.html Hey Cliff I sent you an email a week ago about selling the 86 GLHT wondering if you got it? If not im asking $2000.00 O/BO it has new, motor mounts, trans mounts, water pump, gauge pod, tires have 700 miles, recent brakes, all struts springs recent. I repainted the car, if you know of someone that is interested please call me at 860-841-2884 or email me at [EMAIL PROTECTED] . I really want someone that will appreciate the car to have it if I don't hear from you soon I m going to put the car in the paper and on ebay, figured I would give you and your friends first crack at buying the car. Thanks Steve ---REMOVE-FOOTER-WHEN-REPLYING Questions? Visit http://www.sdml.org/ To be removed, visit http://www.sdml.org/pages/leave.html
