David: Re item 3: Others may differ, but my experience suggests this is a
complete red herring and should be disregarded. WOT will not be achieved until
the boat is underway and at speed and probably not in reverse as the gearing is
different. I doubt that the surveyor or anyone else had the boa
#1, I wouldn't worry about, but I would walk on te are and see if it's spongy,
rebed things on deck and monitor.
#2, should be fixed as recommended, so budget for that.
#3, I would check the throttle cable and shifter linkage cable for clear,
unrestricted movement. I never use full throttle in
No, The streaks are definitely where rain washes through the holes in the toe
rail, predominently just forward of each stanchion base. It's just dirt, and
can be washed off if caught early. My friend waxed his toe rails and it made a
big difference.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic Cit
Not sure what is wrong with your current hatch.
This company can likely repair it or sell you the parts you need.
Hammmerhead Nautical Systems
http://www.hhns.ca/
Located on the outskirts of Toronto, Ontario
Best regards,
Bob Hickson,
C&C 29-2 Flying Colours
Frenchman's Bay Yacht
Jim
It looked fine to me...but, honestly, I know nothing about Asym's and
I only had it up a few times before we decided to sell Jubilee. So,
I really can't say how it would hold up to extended use. That said,
Dirk sure seemed like a straight shooter to me an he could probably
give you some
Dave
I'd call the surveyor. 1 may be the area near the turning blocks for the
jib and spin sheets. 3. No idea on that one. On the rudder you might want
to just take a 4k discount for a new rudder. Good luck!
Joel Aronson
On Feb 28, 2013, at 10:33 PM, David Knecht wrote:
Since the advice has be
Hi Chuck- I thought the black streaks were from the butyl bedding compound in
which case treating the toe rail will have no effect. Dave
On Feb 27, 2013, at 8:07 PM, Chuck S wrote:
> Dennis,
> A fellow C&C owner near me has the same year boat as mine but my toe rails
> are faded and his look
Since the advice has been so helpful, I am going to move to the next step.
Perhaps this is becoming a group buying decision! The broker sent me the
survey they had done before taking the boat in trade in September. Turns out
the surveyor is one of 3 that I contacted about surveying for me an
Our 29-2 had a Nibo forward hatch. I think a Lewmar 60 is a drop-in
replacement, same as it was on our 35.
On 28 February 2013 17:13, Paul Fountain wrote:
> As said either aitkens & Hoyle or bomark Look at Lewmar for a
> replacement if A & H don't have one... Measure the inside dimension
As said either aitkens & Hoyle or bomark Look at Lewmar for a replacement
if A & H don't have one... Measure the inside dimensions from below and check
their catalogue. When I replaced ours the Lewmars actually fit better than the
bomarks I removed .
Paul. :)
On 2013-02-28, at 5:32 PM,
Rick, I really like this idea!
JT
Delaney
C&C 38 MK II
Oriental, NC
- Original Message -
From: Dennis C.
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 8:42 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List PHRF ratings - Spin vs non-spin
We used to have fundraiser regattas where
James, that is what we have discovered in out Wednesday and Saturday series.
Those who have the crew can take advantage of the increased performance of the
spinnaker and the rest do what they can.
Once in a while, particularly on our 30, we (even though we have the crew) will
opt out of the spi
As a competitor who is hopefully going to be entered in the event that you are
talking about. I would suggest that you pick a number, 12 or 15(it doesn't
really matter) and go with it. People who have the crew and equipment to fly a
spin are going to fly it and people who don't, won't. Make
In my case, my final decision came down to two C&C 38's. Boat 1 was in
incredible condition but was equipped exactly as it came off the yard in
1976, no upgrades, no extras, and basically no sails. Boat 2 was equipped to
head out to the Caribbean for a couple of years of cruising, instruments,
Nope, but I would bet money it is from Atkins and Hoyle as they provided
hatches for many C&Cs. Measure it and check their web site...
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C&C 35-III #11
On 2013-02-28 6:32 PM, Mike Cain wrote:
Hi Listers,
Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch
Atkins Hoyle
Joel Aronson
On Feb 28, 2013, at 5:32 PM, Mike Cain wrote:
> Hi Listers,
>
> Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch on a 29 MK2
> circa '84?
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncp
Hi Listers,
Does anyone have the name, rank for a replacement forward hatch on a 29 MK2
circa '84?
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
It's interesting to contemplate the notion of fairness in a competition replete
with random inequalities and more inconsistencies than constants. Cruising
sounds a lot more rewarding and less stressful than handicap racing these days.
At least for an old duffer:)
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halif
PHRF-LO (Lake Ontario) has done a study of Flying and Non flying ratings and
the spread between the two is adjusted for each type of boat.
PHRF-LO has made a lot of changes to try to make the completion fair ... for
instance in 2012 the add on for a fixed 2 bladed prop out of aperture was
adjusted
I have genoa tracks that look bare also. Might try your idea?
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
Atlantic City, NJ
- Original Message -
From: "Steve Thomas"
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 7:20:28 AM
Subject: Re: Stus-List Aluminum toerails - cosmetic improve
New wire, new halyards, new light fixtures and LED bulbs, new VHF antenna,
maybe. The new mast lights are better and you can add a deck light if you don't
have one. Flag halyards for the spreaders?
Check all hardware, rigging tangs, wire ferrels, swages, etc.
Chuck
Resolute
1990 C&C 34R
All good stuff so far Joe, you must be overwhelmed...is there anything else
you could possibly do while your mast is out...maybe yes ...clean the
outside of your nearly 40 year old mast and spreaders...easy enough to do
and on the 30 lots of metal to work with...and with all the new lines it
will r
You'll probably have to change out the halyard sheaves as the wire will
have chewed up the old ones, which won't work well for the new rope
halyards.
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 1:46 PM, Joe at Zialater wrote:
> The mast on my '75 30 MK1 is out of the boat while I rebuild the mast step.
>
>
> So I
s...@cncphotoalbum.com
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 4:17 PM, Edd Schillay wrote:
> All,
>
> Does anyone know Stu's email address? I was just looking at some of the
> photos on the site and I can't believe I never sent him a shot of the
> Enterprise to include on the C&C 37+ pages.
>
> All the best,
All,
Does anyone know Stu's email address? I was just looking at some of the
photos on the site and I can't believe I never sent him a shot of the
Enterprise to include on the C&C 37+ pages.
All the best,
Edd
Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterpri
You want the maximum diameter that will still leave the tips of the prop about
two inches away from the hull. The pitch is determined by how fast you can run
the engine. With the right pitch, you should be able to run the engine at max
rated rpm at full throttle. If you can run it higher than ma
The comment on the sheaves needing replacement - look at them - you may only
need to dress them down a little - I didn't do any on my 1980 30-1 and have
no problems (but that was about 18 years ago, so my sheaves have a lot less
wear than yours) - I am using T900 for the main and Sta-set X plus
Check all your wiring. My boat had zip cord for masthead and deck lights. I
replaced the wires with marine grade wires.
Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncpho
Don't be spring loaded to changing the halyard sheaves. I changed out the
old wire-to-rope to all rope on my '84 29-2 and the sheaves were just
fine. You ought to take a hard look at the angle the new lines will exit
the mast in relation to the headstay though as the clearance might be very
tight
If they are designed for climbing, Joel, you can bet they can take large
loads!
Thanks for the tip.
One thing I try not to do is use them without a backup in situations where
if they break a sheet can take out your lifelines and stanchions.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 2:54 PM,
You can get high-tech loops at REI for less than $10. each. Search Spectra
loops or Dyneema loops on their website. I've never used them for large
loads, but they are great for clipping the spinnaker bag to the bow rail,
babystay to the mast etc.
Joel
35/3
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 2:10 PM, Marti
When I rewired Calypso's mast I ran a PVC pipe (pop riveted in place) to
protect the wires / cables / coax. 12 years and +- 6,000 miles later it is
still in place with no rattles.
I drilled the pop rivet holes near other access points and used stiff wire
(high grade coat hanger type) to pull t
C-List@cnc-list.com
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Message: 2
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2013 10:24:54 -0700
From: Tim G
Great. Not trying to be a nuisance! I thought you had found the problem. Jabsco
will likely ask the same questions. Let us know what happens.
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-02-28, at 15:26, "Terry" wrote:
Rich, I received several potential issues that I need to check out. Air in th
Dye check the fittings on the shrouds
Inspect all tangs, cotter keys, nuts, bolts and spreader brackets.
Remove, inspect and lube all sheaves. Check them for excessive "wobble" on
their shafts.
Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 28, 2013, at 12:46 PM, "Joe
I had my 1977 mast down last winter and rebuilt it.
If it's a 1975 I'd check the top sheaves. Especially if your going all rope.
I got new custom sheaves made here (Port Townsend):
http://www.zephyrwerks.com/
$38 a sheave!
I also took the opportunity to fit a spinnaker crane while it was down -
Rich, I received several potential issues that I need to check out. Air in the
lines, accumulator issues, possible wiring. I will look into all of them, and
if all else fails, I will call Jabsco. I may call Jabsco first.
...Terry
From: Rich Knowles
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 10:45 AM
To
Agree as to the Tacktick instruments. Great price and wireless.
Also suggest the installation of spreader lights, if you don't already have
them -- or at least run the wires so you can add them in the future if you want
to.
And messenger lines would be a great tool for running wires, halyards
Also, on a 30 foot boat you don't need expensive high-tech line. With the
sail up your mail halyard is probably only 40-45 feet long if it runs to
the cabin top. I've got 7/16 VPC on my 35.
Joel
35/3
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 1:49 PM, Andrew Burton wrote:
> You'll probably have to change out the
? clipped to webbing or rope loops through the anodized toerails to avoid
scratches <
Great idea. It is a little late for the existing coating as the prior 43 years
of racing and cruising have done the damage. If I am able to recoat the
toerail I will use it. I can visualize webbing hig
Joe,
I'd seriously consider rewiring and replacing the antenna and cable. My
recollection is that C&C used non-marine wire in the mast. I put in a
Ray/TackTick wireless wind instrument. Works great, but it requires an
interface device to talk to the chartplotter and autopilot.
Joel
35/3
The Off
On the Swans that I deliver, blocks, etc are clipped to webbing or rope
loops through the anodized toerails to avoid scratches. I plan to do the
same thing on the C&C.
Andy
C&C 40
Peregrine
On Thu, Feb 28, 2013 at 1:14 PM, Martin DeYoung wrote:
>
>
> Calypso’s holey rail (toe rail) has f
The mast on my '75 30 MK1 is out of the boat while I rebuild the mast step.
So I plan to replace those nasty old wire halyards with some high tech
stuff. I will also replace the bulb in my tri-color mast head light with an
LCD. I would like to get a wind instrument as well, but I have not foun
So what happened?
Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax
On 2013-02-28, at 14:07, "Terry" wrote:
Hi, I would like to thank everyone for their comments regarding the water pump
issue. It was very helpful...Terry Johnson
From: Bill Coleman
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-
Terry:
I haven't been following this thread, but you might try connecting the pump
directly to your battery. If it starts right away, you have a wiring problem.
Alan Bergen
C&C 35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
___
This List is provi
Calypso's holey rail (toe rail) has faded/corroded to the point that light
surface treatments will not bring back the luster. (20+ of the 43 years have
been in salt water.) It is beyond the scope of our "in the water" repairs to
remove the toe rails and have them re-anodized.
I read somewhere
Hi, I would like to thank everyone for their comments regarding the water pump
issue. It was very helpful...Terry Johnson
From: Bill Coleman
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2013 5:53 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Water Pump delayed start
Is it possible that the water is leak
We used to have fundraiser regattas where the boats bought seconds. That was
always fun. To stimulate giving, sponsors donated stuff. Buy a bottle of
Bombay rum, get 21 seconds, etc.
We raced Touche' at a PHRF rating of 333 one race. Cost me a ton of $$$ and we
didn't win but it raised a
Bill,A little late, but my main from north is NorLam which I think they call
Radian now. Its sailed for 5 seasons now and looks great.4 battens, 2 full 2
partial. cross cutjim
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 10:30:23 -0600
From: wstrie...@cableone.net
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Sai
I would lend my support to the +15 seconds to their spinnaker rating for
non-spinnaker boats (unless an allowance was already given for asym only).
The PHRFNE standard is +12 seconds, but it is not usually enough on
windward / leeward courses. I'd think +15 would be good for you
considering the d
Tom,For 1350, seems really cheap. Honestly how does the sail look, or
work?Wonder if they do .75 oz. Hey for that money I wouldn't be that upset when
the crew punches a hole in it, compared to a new sail from the big guysNorth,
UK, Haarstik, etcJim Galaxy 34'
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2013 10:10:57 -0
FWIW West Florida PHRF uses a 26 sec non-spin offset (in our light air
downwind work can be slw for a non-spinn boat). Though the classes
rarely race against each other and the only impact tends to be in small
races or some regattas looking to score some sort of overall. Since this
is a dist
As a PHRF racer, I realize that assigning a single rating for a boat sailing in
various conditions of wind, waves, etc. is a very poor substitute for a more
complicated and more expensive solution such as IRC, etc. etc.
Adding modifications to this single number to account for sail configuratio
I guess the only downside to buying one already equipped is the workmanship
that went in to equip it.
If it was all just hacked it then it may be more trouble and more work to clean
up than having to install it right the first time.
I don't know how many times I've said "what the F?#% was this
Rick, to clarify, PHRF of the Chesapeake does not have the NS and S boats in
the same class with different ratings.
They have a different NS rating for boats which have something about their
spinnaker which makes it different than a 'stock' boat. So, the J-24 that I
raced, which had a masthead
Rick, there is no fair way. I am the messenger from the area that has both 10
and 15% adjustments. Neither is perfect, and the deviation from perfect depends
on the wind.
Our Wednesday racers give a 10% adjustment for no spin. Our venue (you've been
here, so you know) is a long, rather narrow r
Is it possible that the water is leaking back to the tank, so it has to fill
the lines again, possibly even re-priming the pump?
Bill Coleman
C&C 39 animated_favicon1
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew
Burton
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2013 9:13 PM
Just for clarification, the race in question is a middle distance (about 16
nm) pursuit race run on a course that has 8 legs of varying lengths and
directions. Last year we had a fleet of 37 PHRF boats that ranged from a
Farrier 31 tri at 59 to a Menger 18 catboat at 330+. The 6 boats in the
spin
We do that, too, Dwight. We call it the "Lottery Race" and have offered it
on the second day of racing.
One start for all boats participating. Each boat draws a scratch off lottery
ticket out of a hat at the cookout after the race, with the order of drawing
the ticket being the reverse order o
utfitted,
> you'll save a ton of money.
>
> My $0.02
>
> Colin
>
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A lot of areas use +12 for no spin. Some use +12 for no spin on
fractional rigs and +18 on masthead. Some even go as far as +18 on all.
Pick a number and go with it. If it is a light wind day likely the spin
boats will win. If it is windier than maybe the non spin
Have a fun race. A lot o
Colin.
Regarding your 2 cents worth:
In Canada pennies are being phased out. Anything that is 1 or 2 cents gets
rounded down. Anything 3 or 4 cents gets rounded up. So basically your 2
cents worth is now zero, Nada, zilch, worthless, etc. I just thought that I
would clarify that for you.
Since the original anodised finish consists of dye (and pigment?) adhering to
oxide formed on the surface of the aluminum, a permanent black magic marker
might help to restore some of the colour. The only tricky thing might be if you
were to follow this with a wax product that uses alcohol as a
Agreed Dwight. I can't envision a way that this would turn out well.
Seems like you need two fleets or a course that has little or no downwind
legs. You could also just say no handicap for non-spin or just not allow
any spinnakers. I'm thinking very few, short, downwind legs is the best
answer i
Sounds like your trophy winners will be determined by the math you use.OK if
everyone understands and accepts that.Spinnaker boats and non spinnaker
boats in the same race is about as bad as racing gets IMHO.might as well all
just go sailing and draw numbers for the trophies
Dwight Veinot
C&C
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