Charlie,
For your benefit and the rest of the list, I have dug into the dusty archives
of several British car companies and have learned a lot about British pipe
threads.
B = British
S = Standard
P = Pipe
P = Parallel (Yes, P can mean more than one thing…)
T = Tapered
BSPT thread
Its in our calendar and we are ready for official signup. Now the only
decision is Plum Gut or The Race! Let me know if you need any help. I think we
may be the closest boat. Dave
> On Apr 5, 2017, at 3:20 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> On behalf of Rob Gallagher
Thanks. I plan on attending. Have been in there on numerous occasions. Short
sale from Three Mile Harbor. Jerry
-Original Message-
From: Edd Schillay via CnC-List
To: C&C List
Cc: Edd Schillay
Sent: Wed, Apr 5, 2017 3:21 pm
Subject: Stus-List Announcing the 2017 C&C Northe
Remember to use cast acrylic, not extruded.
Alan Bergen
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 3:18 PM, Paul Wyand via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I used clear on my side port-lights, and like it. I don't think I would
> like dark grey anyway.
>
> On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 1:37 PM, ALAN BERGEN via C
I used clear on my side port-lights, and like it. I don't think I would
like dark grey anyway.
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 1:37 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> I used 9mm (3/8") #126 bronze for my side windows. I'm happy with the
> color.
>
> Alan Bergen
> 35 Mk III Thi
Very cool! Almost makes me wish I was in the Northeast US.
Oh wait - you have ice up there in the winter. Maybe I'll stay in San
Francisco!
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"
C&C 29-1
San Francisco Bay
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 12:21 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Liste
Listers,
On behalf of Rob Gallagher, David Risch and Don Sweeney, we would would to
invite you to attend our 2017 C&C Northeast Rendezvous; September 8-10, 2017 at
the Mitchell Park Marina in Greenport.
I’ll save some of the details for later, but here’s a little video (trust me —
Go full scr
My thoughts are:
When you drill a hole with a hole saw it’s going to be a little larger anyway.
But I don’t see the need for clearance – you want a fairly tight, solid fit.
Lots of “goop” (...a technical term!) doesn’t seal any better. The seal is one
molecule wide between the hull and sealant a
I installed separate tracks. A longer one back to handle sails in the 140 - 155
range
and a short track between the shrouds and cabin for < 100.
The height of the clew controls how far back the genoa car is positioned. I
doubt the
110 will sheet inside of the shrouds. If the clew is higher than
Sam,
Actually, your question is something I would like to hear the list's
thoughts on. I've read that you should drill the hole a size larger than
the thruhull, but I have no idea if that is best practice or not. Should I
be drilling the hole the same size as the thruhull, or should it be a
little
I have long tracks which start about two feet aft of the shrouds and are even
with them across-wise. They are about eight feet long. The 140+/- sheets near
the forward end of the gate and the 155 sheets mid-to aft in the gate. The clew
of the ‘working jib’ which may be original to the 1980 boat
Just a caution on using a hole saw. You shouldn't have a problem with a 1
1/4 hole saw but when using a larger one you should use a drill with a side
handle. I have a corded 1/2 inch drill with a side handle that I use for
all hole saw work. A broken wrist could be painful. :)
Dennis C.
On We
I've only got short (~2') tracks between the rails and the coamings, with their
forward ends at the aft lifeline gate stanchion / forward primary winch. I use
them with the cars all the way forward for my #2 genoa (150%), and with the
cars all the way aft for my #1 genoa (165%). I use snatch blo
I used 9mm (3/8") #126 bronze for my side windows. I'm happy with the
color.
Alan Bergen
35 Mk III Thirsty
Rose City YC
Portland, OR
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 10:30 AM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.
>
> Talked to both Piedm
Bronze is what was used originally on the C&Cs, both for the fixed windows and
the hatches, FWIW…
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
> On Apr 5, 2017, at 12:30 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Thanks for all
Thanks for all the feedback on acrylic.
Talked to both Piedmont Plastics and Polymershapes today. Currently
Polymershapes does not have grey/smoked in 3/8" - only in bronze.
Piedmont has a light grey available in 3/8" (need to ship in from
Montreal) but they don't have the darker grey curren
I have the shoal draft model and have found that I'm better off not trying to
point too high. As a result, the genoa track between the rail and the coming
going up a couple feet forward of the bulkhead works well. However, sheeting
to the toe rail works well also.For the smaller jib, I always
Exactly.
Dennis C.
On Wed, Apr 5, 2017 at 11:20 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Tom,
>
> Dennis helped me with a similar project. Key is to not break the gelcoat!
> IIRC, put masking tape over the area on the outside. Drill a small pilot
> hold from the inside t
LifeCaulk is not recommended for plastics because it’s partly a polysulfide
product, which will eat plastic. LifeSeal is my product of choice for this.
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
> On Apr 5, 2017, at 11:59 AM, Steve
Using tape and starting in reverse to drill a neat hole through gel coat is
good advice.
Depending on where you drill, you might get balsa core, especially above the
waterline (not sure if the 35 has a cored hull)
I don't think silicone has any place on a boat. I'd use Sikaflex. (I'm not keen
o
3M 4200 will work, but if the fitting is plastic, chances are you will be
replacing it again someday. 4200 is not as difficult as 5200, but neither is
easy to remove. Above the waterline through hulls are the only place that I use
silicone. Polysulfide (Life Caulk) would probably work, but there
Joel that's the way I do it.
Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE DeviceDoug Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38
Original message From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List
Date: 4/5/17 09:20 (GMT-08:00) To:
cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: Joel Aronson Subject: Re:
Stus-List Drilling a Hole in the Hull
I would highly advise against drilling any where near an oil passage. One small
stray metal chip could get onto a bearing surface and you are rebuilding your
engine. Find the correct fittings and seal with permatex #2. I used NPT
fittings on my 3QM30 when I installed an oil pressure gauge.
Se
Hi Joel,
I’d run the holesaw in reverse to lightly go through the gelcoat. Once you have
a good clean pilot hole, you could start out side and likely finish from
outside. Hole saws can be wicked in close quarters, and you don’t want to
enlarge your pilot hole before you make your “clean cut”.
Tom,
Dennis helped me with a similar project. Key is to not break the gelcoat!
IIRC, put masking tape over the area on the outside. Drill a small pilot
hold from the inside through the hull. Use your hole saw first from the
inside, drilling 1/2 way through, then drill the rest from the outside.
Hi listers,
Thanks, everyone, for your advice on the solar charging system and ACR.
Onto the next project!
I'm going to be drilling a hole in the hull to install a
well-above-the-waterline thruhull for a bilge pump discharge hose. The
thruhull is 1 1/8" inch, so I'm going to use a 1 1/4" hole saw
Hi everyone,
I am investigating putting genoa tracks and cars on my C&C30 MK1 1979. I
have a 110 and 150 head sail.
Can folks racing 30's comment on what is the best configuration of tracks
on a 30. Will one long track work verses separate tracks for different
sails? and where on the deck would t
mark:
Try these guys.they cut new windows for me and they were a perfect fit.
https://www.mapquest.com/canada/nova-scotia/business-dartmouth/sabic-polymershapes-280937004
Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.
On 2017-04-04 5:12 PM, Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List wrote:
Anyone know wh
NO, not the dreaded foreign car thread again?! :^)
— Fred
Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^(
> On Apr 5, 2017, at 7:57 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List
> wrote:
>
> Geez--this list is starting to sound like a gathering of Englis
Geez--this list is starting to sound like a gathering of English sports car
buffs (I used to house a classic MG and a Aston-Martin in my large garage with
only a single wide door--the door was not a problem since the owners spent so
much time fixing their cars, they hardly ever left the garage!)
Could you retap hole? "GlowShift’s 1/8 NPT Drill and Tap Kit is perfect kit
for anyone looking to drill and tap directly into the exhaust manifold or
intake manifold. The featured 1/8 NPT Tap is used for tapping EGT probes and
boost gauge fitting holes for gauge sensors that will deliver optimu
There is a picture of my setup on the gallery page of Persistence web site
http://users.eastlink.ca/~mhoyt The sender is on the top and the gauge is on
the bottom.
Mike
Persistence
1987 Frers 33
Halifax, NS
Launching very soon!
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
https://www.facebook.com/groups/1870962993162348/
Bill Bina
On 4/4/2017 10:17 PM, Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List wrote:
On Tue, Apr 4, 2017 at 11:23 AM Doug Ellmore via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
I created a C&C Owners Group on Facebook. Share pictures, data,
k
Josh,
I thought I needed a BSPT street elbow. The link you sent is for a BSPP street
elbow. The sender is BSPT (tapered threads). I know the thread pitch is the
same, but will the tapered threads seal in a (BSPP) parallel fitting?
I’ve also seen BSP elbows. Not sure if they are tapere
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