I've had issues with the water witch switches in my boat sticking in the on
position. I even sent one back to the manufacturer who said they couldn't
find a problem with it. I have a couple in my box of spares if anyone
wants them, cheap.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach,
And specifically, use Bed-It brand. Others are ok, but not as good as
Bed-It.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092ecare ok, but the
On Wed, Apr 10, 2024, 7:22 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Thanks for the great advice folks…
Mine did not have conduits either, and it was one of the last 37/40+s
built. Hull #89, I think.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
On Thu, Aug 3, 2023, 11:41 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> 37+ doesn't have conduits. Well m
Hi Rob,
If you are in salt water, plan on replacing the idler pulley bracket. The
existing bracket is mild steel, and where it sits on our boats is exposed
to salt air. By the way, I had to send. My old bracket to Edson so they
could reuse the pulleys because the new ones that came with the ne
Hello all,
I've had 2 recent successes that might be helpful to know about. The first
came about because I could not find spray SailKote for an extended period
of time, even here in St. Pete, FL. Even West Marine didn't have any in
stock. I had used "Super Slick Stuff" spray at home (available
What Dave said is essentially correct.
1. Make sure the tank has gas in it. Shake it, and if you feel liquid
sloshing around, you have fuel.
2. Check the solenoid. Have someone flip the switch inside while you're
at the solenoid. It should make a distinct clip and get warm.
3. Check the st
I'm an insurance nerd (due to my job) and putting the marina on your
liability policy only protects them if you and they get sued as a result of
the same incident. It does not give them the right to make a direct claim
against your insurance. I agree though that boats owners should should
have ma
I am interested in this as well, though I want to be cautious. A friend
had a dodger on a Tartan 42 with a similar entrance down below. The
combination of the stainless steel bar and fabric made for a difficult
crawl down below. Instead, I would want a zip-open flap the width of the
entranceway,
Hi Edd,
I'd certainly take those spare stanchions if you don’t have any takers.
And extra stanchions base would be greatly appreciated if you find one as
well, as I think I might have found one of the last remaining examples
after a rental wave runner demolished one a couple years back. We could
Thanks everyone for the insights. I had a feeling that using the ring I
showed was a bad idea, but I had to ask. Now another related question -
What do you use for a topping lift on the pole? We have a main halyard,
jib/genoa halyard and two spinnaker halyards on the boat. How would one
rig the
Hello all,
I was wondering if you folks can give me some advice as to rigging a
whisker pole on our 37/40+. The boat, which has spent a good part of its
time on the west coast of Florida, was previously named "Dagny" and saw its
share of races. Yet, the boat does not have a whisker pole ring/car
Sorry, I don't know the reference "horse and tail" regarding the furler
line, and I couldn't find it using a Google search.
Would you explain further please?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to
You may also want to replace the chain. When I replaced mine, I found on
close inspection that one of the links had a crack in it. BTW, not to take
anything away from the folks at Edson, you can get 7x19 stainless steel
cable and Nicopress fittings at West Marine to make your own cables and the
c
Mine is on the starboard side under the removable stern seat. It shares
space in the propane locker. I personally don't like this approach as it
sacrifices some of the integrity of the propane locker. I've delt with
that by putting in sealed bulkhead fittings where the water lines came
through t
I found a matching one at an RV store near me. Not too expensive. You'll
want to carefully measure the hole spacing though.
I might actually have an extra on if you can send me the measurements.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
On Fri, Aug 6, 2021, 11:45 AM Rob Hamlin via CnC-List
wrote:
> Hi
Hello all,
For those of you with aluminum goosenecks like ours, I took the suggestion
from Joel and Graham, and found bronze bushings at our local ACE hardware.
I then drilled out the 1/2" hole to 5/8", and pressed in the bushing. One
bushing was a tiny bit loose in the aluminum, so I mixed up so
Hello all,
I have to get to the air conditioning unit mounted behind the companionway
stairs on our 1994 C&C 37/40+. The A/C unit is trapped in there with only
side access. Has anyone had to disassemble those stairs to get at things,
and if so, do you have any suggestions or guidance?
Thanks!
Hi Alan,
Yes, it is the black piece that needs fixing/replacement. I'd love to see
pictures of the parts you have.
I like the idea of a bushing though. I hadn't thought of that.
Thanks!!!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contrib
Hello all,
Our gooseneck fitting is starting to wear, and the holes in it where the
bolt fits down the center vertically are starting to wear egg-shaped. You
can see a photo here:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0
Does anyone know where to get a new fitting?
I have a similar issue with our Yanmar 3JH2E.
Curious to see what everyone days,
Bruce
On Sun, May 16, 2021, 8:18 PM Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
> Every time I change oil on Alera I check the engine spec for the Yanmar 3HM35F
> that calls for 5.7 quarts. I have n
Muriatic acid, by its very nature is biodegradable.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contrib
filter. All list emails end up in that folder.
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>>
>> Dennis C.
>>
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>>
>> Mandeville, LA
>>
>>
>>
>> On Sat, May 1, 2021 at 11:24 AM Jim Watts via CnC-List <
>> cnc-li
Hello all,
So let me ask a question on this issue. I found that vinegar is just not
strong enough to fix the calcium buildup in the head. I tried a mixture of
10% muriatic acid cut through it quickly, and the last year or two I have
taken to flushing some through the headand directly overboard.
And about 50% of the time my responses don't post. I responded to this
thread about using natural sponge and it never showed up on the list.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
c
I simply cut natural sponge and stuff it through the toerail. Yes, it
fails in a year or two in the hot Florida sun, but it works great.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs
Hi Josh,
When I bought Astralis, there were 90 degree white PVC elbows coming out of
the strainer leading to the engine and a grey plastic (PVC?) tail pipe
leading to a seacock through which the sink and A/C drain. If those were
the same on yours, I suspect they were put in by the factory. At an
Sorry, but I seem to be missing something. My split hydraulic backstays
have leaked in the past, to I initially just set the backstay tension using
the turnbuckle to a light air setting at the dock and put it on my list for
future repairs. Now they're fixed ( and yes, more story on that to come)
Hello all
With all of the discussions about hydraulic backstay adjusters, and mine
being fixed (finally), where do most of you keep and use the pressure? At
the dock vs. sailing and under what conditions?
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed
Not for nothing, I have a shitshow story about Navtech and a Florida firm
that I'm waiting for the dust to settle before I share the details. Let's
just say between incompetence and unwillingness to stand behind their work,
I will be giving zero stars with 8 x 12 color photographs with circles an
Hi Lee, having had an Atomic 4 for 15 years, I can say the 2nd video sounds
largely normal once you got it starte. So, it seems yo tell me compression
is OK. The first one sounds a little rough, like a fuel issue. That
could happen if the engine was run all the way out of fuel ans you had
limite
I personally went with an electric Whale Gulper mounted out of the bilge
with a strainer and a typical float switch. It may not pump as fast as the
centrifugal ones, but it pumps out nearly all the water, it's much harder
to clog the pickup, there's little in the bilge water to corrode, and I
thin
Ok, that one showed up. Let's see if this response does...
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Has anyone else had this issue? Whether it is a new subject or a response,
I only see my post show up about 30% of the time.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribut
We put some stick-on weatherstripping that essentially looks like two rows
of hollow rubber half-round material in white. That helped, but we were
still getting frost buildup on the plate. Finally, I used 1 and a half
tubes of mildew resistant latex caulk to seal the underside of where the
counte
Can you provide some links to photos? I have so.mr ideas.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to
send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
By the way, a friend of mine has a 40-2 for sale in Clearwater Beach. It
has almost new rigging and the mast was painted at the same time withe new
or revitalized chain plates, and the bottom is getting repainted next
week. A few seacocks will be replaced at the same time. I've been on the
boat,
If anyone is interested, I know of a 40 for sale in Clearwater Beach, FL.
Asking low $40s. New rig about 5 years old with chainplates redone and
mast painted. Pretty good condition. I was on it last weekend.
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the
costs in
Hello all,
A few weeks back I posted about the stud breaking on the bottom of the
babystay track reinforcement rigging as it goes down to the grid/hull.
A couple of your comments got me thinking. One suggested the rod might go
into the keel. I checked that, and no, the swing keel doesn't start
By tightening or loosening the forestry, you affect weather or lee helm.
We had a little too much weather helm for my liking, so I tightened the
forestay, probably reducing the forestay length by about 1/2". It doesn't
sound like much, but it got my weather helm just where I like it (a little,
but
I really like the idea of a soft shackle. Easy and cheap to install, and
if you still really want something more permanent, you can always add it.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
On Wed, Mar 10, 2021, 2:27 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-li
I ended up putting on a chain stopper like the one Lewmar makes. They look
like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/MxEol-Marine-Anchor-Chain-Stainless/dp/B06XKXQZ6Z/ref=asc_df_B06XKXQZ6Z/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=343251581167&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=13357802507350687517&hvpone=&hvptwo=
I think that scrimping on paint will be detrimental, because if you look
at older cars, fading and paint failure is very common, especially here in
the south where we get a lot of sun. That paint also won't take the abuse
that Imron will.
I understand your thinking, and can even easily see that i
Hello all,
Thank you very much for your opinions and insights. It appears that fixing
this, while a priority, won't be an emergency, and once I get the v berth
sole up, I should be able to create a plan for the repair. I'll let
everyone know what I find.
Thanks again,
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C
;utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> Virus-free.
> www.avg.com
> <http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=webmail>
> <#m_6637486383092924218_m_-8953886778624034987_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4
Hello all,
I have a 1994 37/40+, which of course has rod rigging. We were out sailing
yesterday, and I had put on some babystay and backstay tension, but not a
tremendous amount.
When I got back to the dock, I found, down in the cabin that the rod that
is just forward of the mast broke loose fro
Hello all,
A year or so back, I removed a generator that was installed in the stern
locker because it was totally frozen up. When I did, an old small Racor
came out with it. I also already have a small 12 volt fuel pump.
I am thinking about putting in a tee in the fuel line before the primary
R
I've got to agree with Jeff on this one, though certainly try soaking the
screws in penetrating oil, applying heat to the surrounding area and using
an impact hammer. Realistically, they are probably fused.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
On Thu, Jan
Thanks everyone for the insights!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092
On Wed, Jan 13, 2021, 12:49 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List
wrote:
> Here's a good article on heat exchanger maintenance.
>
> https://pbase.com/mainecruising/heat_exchanger
>
> Touche' has a U
t,
>
> Edd
>
> ———-
> Edd M. Schillay
> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
> C&C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
> ———-
> 914.774.9767 | Mobile
> ———————-
> Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
> iPhone
Hello all,
I am in the Tampa area and have a Yanmar 3JH2E in our C&C. I'm not having
any problems at the moment, but given the warm seawater here that tends to
grow barnacles and such, would you recommend proactively flushing the heat
exchanger? I am considering using Barnacle Buster.
Thanks fo
Hello all,
We are getting the bottom done on our 1994 C&C 37/40+, and at that time, I am
changing a rather old 3-blade prop in not the best condition to a 3 blade
Flexofold. The yard recommends applying Pettit 1792 to the running gear. When
I asked Flexofold about this, they said to not paint
Hello all,
While we were moving our boat to the yard to get it repaired (see my previous
post about a jetski hitting us), we motored about 12 miles. For reasons I can
get into later, we were going only about 4 knots. We were in the Gulf of
Mexico and the going up Tampa Bay in light conditions
ea cock won't cost vey much, Why don't you
just have them replace it?
Ken H.
On Wed, 8 Jul 2020 at 15:43, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
wrote:
Hi Edd,
As it turns out, the quote on the damage to Astralis from the jetski is now
just over $21,000 not including the dinghy, and the boat won
Hi Edd,
As it turns out, the quote on the damage to Astralis from the jetski is now
just over $21,000 not including the dinghy, and the boat won't get in for
repair until the 29th.
During that time, I want them to redo the bottom and pull the forward sink
seacock that is frozen and glass over
Congratulations Edd!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions. Each and
every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support the list - use PayPal
Interesting story when we first got Astralis. After going through the boat
what I thought was pretty well prior to moving the boat, we took off one
morning to start the 120 mile trip.
After a few minutes getting outside the harbor, I had one of my friends take
the helm. I went down below to
I'll second Edd's response, but we have a Yanmar 3JH@E with 36 hp, and won't
get much faster at higher RPMs. Maybe 7.4 kts.
I'm hoping for a bit more when I get the bottom done (which will be happening
shortly)
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcgloba
Hello all,
As an update, please see the photo of the damage to our boat.
Boat Damage from Jetski.jpg
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Boat Damage from Jetski.jpg
Shared with Dropbox
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You might not see much at first but look at the twist in the solar panels. The
missing support f
Thanks Edd,
I appreciate the sentiment. On Saturday night, before the accident my wife and
I were talking about heading down to see you and your boat. Maybe we'll make
that come true! :)
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On Monday, June 15, 2020, 1:51:36
Hi Edd,
Here's what I did:
I went with a Portabote because it can easily be driven with a torqeedo, and in
fact it is our preferred motor as opposed to the 6 hp 4 stroke that came with
the boat. The 6 hp motor will drive the boat at 13 kts with both me and my
wife it it, but as another person m
Hello Glen,
Below is a post from the end of 2018. The first paragraph is what I finally
decided on, and with which I am ultimately the most comfortable. The remaining
paragraphs outline all the research I could find on the subject, which, in the
end, didn't really lead me to a definitive answe
Hello all,
Last week there was a good exchange on ground wires, and it came at a good time
as I was having issues with the ground wire leading from my 12 volt panel, and
I ended up grounding all the batteries, and the panel to a single spot in the
engine compartment and running 1 ground to the e
tmore via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello all,
Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED: Circuit Breaker
Panel 2.jpg
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Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg
Shared with Dropbox
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The bottom one is broken.
I tried ordering this one through Amazon, b
Hello all,
Please see the link to look at my circuit breaker panel LED: Circuit Breaker
Panel 2.jpg
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Circuit Breaker Panel 2.jpg
Shared with Dropbox
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The bottom one is broken.
I tried ordering this one through Amazon, but it was too small:
https
Hi Dennis,
One of our boat neighbors had a similar problem on a powerboat. He drained all
the fuel, cut multiple access ports in the top so he could get around any
baffles and coated the bottom and 3" up the side with an epoxy specially
designed to withstand fuel. He then made caps for the acc
rty exhaust gas. In the video
below I show how I installed a dropout tank.
https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ
Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD
On Tue, May 12, 2020, 13:48 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello all,
I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with a Yanmar 3JH2E engine.
Hello all,
I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+ with a Yanmar 3JH2E engine. Interestingly, in the
breather vent line leading to the air filter, there is a fitting with a hole in
it that pretty clearly was intentionally installed, and even looks factory
fitted.
You can see it here: Breather Vent Tube.jpg
T
Hello all,
I have a C&C 37/40+ with a 15 kg/35 lb. Delta anchor and 4' of 8 MM chain. I
can get the anchor up reasonably easily. I am thinking of upgrading the anchor
to a 45 lb. Rocna or Mantus M1 because that is the size recommended by the
manufacturer. My only concern is whether I'm going
Hello all,
I have an additional primary filter left over from removing a generator that
was mounted in the stern of our 1994 C&C 37/40+.
I was thinking about re-mounting it and using it as a backup filter in the
event the usual filter becomes clogged. I could also use it for polishing with
a
t for “live virus” as
there is no such thing as a living virus and no test for functional virus
except to infect cells in culture in a laboratory. Dave
S/V Aries1990 C&C 34+New London, CT
On Mar 25, 2020, at 12:24 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
wrote:
Hey folks, please note that in the stor
Hey folks, please note that in the stories, they talk about RNA, not live virus
being found on the cruise ship surfaces.
Please, let's be very careful about sharing accurate information, and double
checking our sources!
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On We
Same thing for mine - there is no rubber tube in my tank.
Any chance your gauge is off?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+ "Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On Monday, March 23, 2020, 2:59:14 PM EDT, Ken Heaton via CnC-List
wrote:
Ours does
My boat neighbors had an experience on a Catalina 42 that wasn't humorous at
the time, but looking back on it, we always chuckle.
They had decided to go on a cruise down the west side of Florida and over to
the Dry Tortugas, which are about 70 miles west of Key West. On the way back,
one of the
Hi Charlie,
I replaced ours with flax/teflon packing about 4 months ago. It does not drip
at all at the dock, and drips slightly underway. I can check the temperature
of the stuffing box itself underway both by putting my hand on it (though the
idea of having my hand near a spinning shaft does
Hello all,
A couple months ago, I installed 380 watts of solar power with a MPPT charge
controller. The solar controller is Renogy Rover 40 AMP unit. I also have a
couple "smart chargers", one for each bank, both of them are ProMariner
ProSport models.
Both the chargers and the MPPT control
So I have a lifesling and a throwable cushion. Yet, I see lots of boats with
horseshoes, and commercial boats with life rings.
Is there an inherent reason for one design over another?
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
That's really good information Charlies, and after reading Josh's post, it
reminded me to just go tap on the deck where necessary.
I was, however, thinking about our cockpit area which for some magical reason
had teak installed. I'm not really looking forward to stripping it all off and
seal
Agreed, the propane lockers are not structural. Our linear drive is mounted to
a heavy shelf glassed to the hull. If someone needs photos, I can take some,
but it will be a couple weeks before I will be at the boat again.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
Hello all,
In the propane locker in our 1994 C&C 37/40+, there is a wood panel that has
been painted white over varnish and is screwed down. I forget the reason, but
a couple years ago I needed to remove it, and I wanted to make sure it was well
sealed so propane fumes would not leak below.
I'd love to just be able to tell if I have some wet core in my deck. I'm
pretty sure I can find some areas I can quantify are dry, and then I'd like to
be able to scan areas I don't know and be able to see the areas that need
attention.
Not sure if the pinless meters available at the home st
That is exactly what we faced as well. The teak is so light in most places so
as to throw you off that it is teak at all. It is still a bit of a work in
progress for me, but I found that a quick wipe with mineral spirits can,
depending on the wood condition, actually darken it just enough to t
wport, RI USA 02840
www.burtonsailing.comhttp://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/+401
965-5260
On Feb 11, 2020, at 16:36, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
wrote:
Hello all,
I have a nice chunk of Starboard and have need of a backing plate.
Is there a downside to using this as o
Hello all,
I have a nice chunk of Starboard and have need of a backing plate.
Is there a downside to using this as opposed to wood or something else?
Thanks!
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___
Hi Jeff,
I read your post below with interest, and just to test my stern light (in which
I use an Amazon LED bulb) I took my handheld, turned it to 16, and literally
held the antenna up to the lens with the light on. No change in the static was
noticed, nor when I had the squelch set just right
state and every bug in the creek showed up at
deck levelL
Joe Della Barba Coquina C&C 35 MK I
www.dellabarba.com
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Bruce
Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2020 10:50 AM
To: CNC L
Hello all,
I read through your thoughtful responses, and realized the plastic lens up
there is probably crazed/cracked suggesting full replacement.
Then, it occurred to me that I don't like the idea of an anchor light 55+ feet
up in the air. Unless you know you're in an anchorage, it would
ad to deal with the original
lighting hardware.
Neil1982 C&C 32, FoxFireRock Hall, MD
Neil Andersen20691 Jamieson RdRock Hall, MD 21661 From: CnC-List
on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2020 5:56 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Masthead/anc
ighting hardware.
Neil1982 C&C 32, FoxFireRock Hall, MD
Neil Andersen20691 Jamieson RdRock Hall, MD 21661 From: CnC-List
on behalf of Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
Sent: Monday, February 3, 2020 5:56 PM
To: C&C List
Cc: Bruce Whitmore
Subject: Stus-List Masthead/anchor light brand & model
Hello all,
I have a 1994 C&C 37/40+.
I was wondering if any of you might know the make and model number of the
anchor light used by C&C on these boats?
The rest of the navigation lights were made by Aqua Signal, and were Series
41s, but from a distance, I suspect that is not the model of the
FYI, we found on our 27 MKIII, and I think it would apply to most of our boats
that a thin panel (such as a semi-flexible one) can be mounted directly the the
sliding hatch, and by so doing it will, by definition, be deployed while off
the boat, and be tucked away under the hood when the boat is
Hi John,
I have a different take on things:
1). Battery chargers should not be left connected unattended on a boat. The
acid can boil off, the battery can become hot and start a fire, etc. It's just
not good practice. If you want to charge your batteries over the winter,
either remove them a
Hello all,
I mentioned a while back that adding a vacuum gauge to my fuel filter was on my
list. Not an emergency, but just something that will give me a bit more piece
of mind.
I understand that I should tee in between the Racor and the lift pump, and any
significant vacuum would mean the Raco
Interestingly I just tried Progressive, and they won't insure anything larger
that 35'.
Bruce Whitmore
1994 C&C 37/40+"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
___
Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contribution
Unfortunately the changes and problems started when Boat U.S. in 2007, and was
exacerbated when coverage was transferred to GEICO (as opposed to CNA which
used to issue the policies).
I made a VERY STRONG argument to them about a 18 months ago when I found out
they had not pointed out the dep
I agree with everything James said except for the bit about ISO forms. Yes,
ISO forms are pretty standard for Homeowners, Renters, and even Commercial
General Liability. For boats, however, I have not seen the standard ISO forms,
meaning that each carrier's policy may differ, even substantiall
You'll want to look very closely for issues related to depreciation. If you
have a policy in PDF format, you can do a search on words like "depreciate"
"depreciation" and 20%" and you should find it.
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On Monday, November 11
You shouldconfirm how salvage is treated. That can be a real shock. Also, you
should confirm if pollution from a sinking or spillage is covered.
Hoping you find this helpful,
Bruce Whitmore
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
On Monday, November 11, 2019, 3:30:01 PM EST, Fr
Hello all,
Some of you may remember a few weeks back I was inquiring about an apparent
lack of power on our 3JH2E. This was resulting in the engine, when in forward,
not getting up above 2,800 rpm when I used to be able to get up to 3,200.
Lots has been happening since then, as we figured out
Hello all,
For those of you who might want to mount a tablet at the helm or down below, I
thought I'd share with you that I have installed these on our C&C 37/40+ and
are quite pleased:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079MWWV3L/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon
I always found that pressure washing sufficed, especially if the operator was
attentive, and any remaining bits easily wiped off in the spring with a
scotchbrite pad. I had our C&C 27 MKIII in Chicago for 15 years with VC17, and
gave it a fresh coat every year.
YMMV,
Bruce Whitmore
(847)
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