Oh, good grief. I'm outa here. You all have a nice year and CU some other
time.
Opinions are worth about what you pay for them.
Later,
Don, WB5HAK
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How could anyone possibly tell the difference between FSK and the SSB/AFSK
equal?
Well, let's start with being off frequency all the time because the default on
MMTTY and other programs is that #$*& crap they call "ATC" I think. Whenever
anyone answers me so far off I have to use RIT, that'
John,
"Normal" AM carrier can only be had with a true, plate modulated rig. The
Drakes don't have enough iron or a heavy enough modulator to do much more than
controlled carrier. I've seen "mods", but. I sure wouldn't do it to
my Drakes.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
I'm afraid to advise on RTTY anymore since I learned I am the village idiot on
RTTY. Only ran in since 1968, so I'm still learning, but FSK is better, even
if I'm wrong again!!
73,
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Bob,
On RTTY, peaks are the same as average. It is continuous duty. I wouldn't
run the T4XC much over 50W, with tubes as expensive as they are today if it
were me. You have to make your own choice, but there is a BIG difference in
the duty cycles of SSB and sound card RTTY. For sure I would
Thanks for that clarification, Garey. I had never heard of "silver-bearing"
solder. I've told you that I never was in electronics professionally, and
only had the minimal USN training for radio ops, not the Electronics Techs
that did get the full, "good stuff", hi.
The silver solder I was re
Al,
The HA-1 manual is on edebris.com for the downloading in pdf unless the
original article has more info. Shame to mess up your vintage handbook if
the schematic is all he needs.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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David,
I think you will find that in any group. One group will ONLY stay stock,
even going so far as to gut and "re-stuff" paper caps with new poly caps,
remelting beeswax back in the ends! The other group to the other side will
make it a whole new radio (look at the "reworked TR7" on WB4HFN'
On the first question, I have heard of the solder melting out of the pins on
the filaments of both the 3-500Z and the 3-400's. If that has happened to
your tube, you might be able to just re-solder it and be okay. Some have
said to silver solder it, but it seems to me that silver solder requir
That would be my first guess, John. Have you rebuilt the AC4?? If not,
it's Heathkit Shop time, hi. I don't think I'd do the bias cap and leave
the other time bombs in there myself.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Good job, Mark!! Thanks for documenting that one for all of us. It does
look great, and is definitely a good alternative for those that want the
"original" look. Please do document your relay addition. I have one of
those on a Collins 516F2 that I bought with an S1 Line, and it does help the
Good thought, Dino. I didn't think of that one!!! Happy New Year to you and
the wife as well. Good to see you in print.
73,
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Bill,
I am a novice at the L4B, but many of the old T4XB's I got at hamfests in the
80's and repaired had been "re-tuned" for 11 meters instead of 10M. You might
check the input tuning and see if that occurred to yours!! Just a thought.
73,
Don, WB5HAK___
If you have a good supply of finals, go for it and have a good time. I have
heard several T4XB's on the air on AM, and they sound quite good to me.
Controlled carrier AM is not as heavy a duty cycle as plate modulated 100%
modulation, but I would think you still should hold the T4XC to 50W or
Ken,
Thanks so much for those links. I had been looking for a source of similar
brushes, and the D-100L small bottle so I could meet the minimum sales, and MCM
seems to have all the things I have been looking for. I bought from them for
years when I was in the school business, not sure why I d
Lee,
I'm really not understanding your posts I have seen on several venues today.
There's not really a coorelation between the HC-6/U crystal and the FT-243,
unless my old memory is worse than I think. Aren't those two separate types of
crystals, different spacing, different pin size, etc???
Unfortunately, Curt, unless you can find different areas of his site than I
did, it appears that Bob Heil has decided to stop selling cartridges. That
is unfortunate, in my humble opinion, as I read of others with the Kobitone
failure problem you mention. I know of no other replacement cartrid
Ron,
I would think that the only "reliable" way to accomplish QRP with the Drake
rigs (assuming the 4 line tube rigs mostly) would be to build up a good
transmitting attenuator pad and "use up" the wattage in that pad. Many
examples can be found in old Johnson literature designed to let their
Mark,
You are right. Tom would never violate safety for sales. He would just
turn you down. I completely understand your wanting to "keep it original",
I would just caution folks to do this for themselves and enjoy the rigs
whichever way chosen.
If we are doing this for an investment in fu
Tom's kits are first rate,AND he is an honest gentleman. I asked about a
kit for my AC4, after seeing Jeff's article in Electric Radio magazine, and
he told me how much more than the Heathkit shop offering it would have to
be. I have had such good luck with Mike's kits for the AC4 that I haven
Neil,
These old Drake rigs are communications rig, not general coverage SW rigs.
Drake did make models that are, but not your R4A. There are circuits to
deliberately block these "strong AM stations" so that they do not interfere
on 160m (1.8 to 2.0) or their images on 80m even. Without defeat
Steve,
If I remember correctly, the finals in the TR3 are 12JB6's, not 6JB6's so
not compatible with the T4(any). My memory isn't what it used to be, but
that's what comes through the fog. There's also no cover over the top of
the power supply. If you use the Heathkit Shop's board, download
They all look black to me, Curt. But then, I confuse socks too, hi.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Looks to me like he is still updating. He needed to, as MOST of his kits
weren't even listed, hi. I've been chiding him for a while, so maybe it has
had its effect and he will show more of what he has. Give him a day or so,
or just email him at sa...@hayseedhamfest.com and tell him what you w
I like the Weller D550 gun. It has 200W for low, 260 for high, and if you
keep a good tip in it, and the setscrews freshly tightened, it works well
and gets a lot of heat in where you need it. I tape the wires around the
area away from it though, hi. The trigger is counter intuitive too, if y
Pete,
Your question has already been answered before I got home, BUT I will say two
things that the others didn't. Tom, at Hayseed Hamfest, AND his family go out
of their way to be sure that you get exactly what you need, at a reasonable
price and do it all in a friendly manner and QUICKLY!! I
That's about what I did here, Jim. I used the GE CL40 (5a unit) and it
works well. It does get warm, but not hot and does do the job. Mouser's
part number is 527-CL40 and they aren't expensive new. Postage will get you
if you don't need other devices, however!! I usually need other things,
I am trying a thermistor from Mouser on my 516F2 power supply for the KWM2A
at the suggestion of a friend. I don't notice the "thump" on the
transformer anymore, so it may just be enough of a delay to help protect
switches, transformers, etc. Sure initially looks like cheap insurance!!
I'll p
So true on the computer power strips. Okay, I will still look at my parts
rig to make sure that switch is good on it. I haven't had much luck with
repairing those, but may try again. It can't get much worse, hi. As I told
Curt off list, my service manual isn't lost, it's just in a safe place
Garey,
Help an old man's brain remember something from the past. If the AC fan on
my TR7 runs after I shut off the "RCVR GAIN" switch, does that tell me that
the DC portion of the switch is working, but the "other side", the AC side
is not?? I seem to remember that the TR7 has separate sectio
Thanks, Paul, I wanted to say it was that easy, but as I said, I haven't
been there so wasn't sure. It wasn't worth tearing the case off mine to
see, hi.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Ski,
I haven't done this, but saw a "hint" once that you could reverse the leads
on the neon lamp and get more useful life out of it. Might be worth a try
if you don't have a spare. Sometimes it's just a dirty switch contact on
the "transceive" switch in the T4XC too.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
___
Steve,
This one of those questions where you will probably end up split 50/50 and just
have to make the decision yourself BUT you asked, so I'll take it on. You have
to first decide what your goal is, do you want a "pristine collectable" that
may or may not be worth "squat" later, OR do you wan
It's a VERY good idea to run fans on the tops of our tube Drakes. Tubes are
getting higher and higher and harder to find. A slow moving fan, sucking air
out of the cabinet will lower the temperature to cool to the touch, in my
experience!! I put rubber feet on the fans or a piece of insulatin
Brian,
Garey has likely already sent you the schematics you need, and he won't tell
you about this, BUT I will!!! Garey sells a CD set for the B Line that will
knock your socks off (shows you how old I am, huh??)!!! It has photographs,
labels parts locations and ALL kinds of data you need to k
Oops, you are sure right, Bud!! Man, am I wrong twice in the same evening
New high for me. (or low)?? I think the rules are the same though, just
follow the Drakelist link.
73,
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Russ,
You have to do this one yourself. Info is given at the bottom of each email.
The "unsubscribe" must be done from the same email address that started the
process. It behooves us all to remember that when we change email addresses
(don't ask how I know this so well!!!).
73,
Don, WB5HAK___
Fred,
I should stress, use a LITTLE expxy on those lids or they are permanent, hi.
Someone years ago went the trouble of somehow filling those hollow pen caps
with a resin of some sorts and inserted shafts in the uncured resin and had
a nice fit when they cured up.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
Fred,
Some of the cheap Bic pens have a top that the upper 1/2 or 3/4" of which is
a reasonable facsimile of the switch levers which seem to be unobtainium, as
far as I could find, even several years ago!! The ones I find are black
ink, and are really close if you can saw that upper piece off
No, the panel builder quit. I guess he either felt he had made what people
wanted or just had a day job and got tired of it. That burnout is what gets
most of them, unfortunately. If it's a nice R4B, put a hole plug in it
temporarily and keep an eye out for a unit that's parted out.
73,
Don,
Thanks Tim and others for the excellent descriptions. That was what my old
mind and reading and re-reading the manuals told me would work. I have a nice
Johnson Viking II that I will use for plate modulated AMing, and don't plan to
amplify what it can do, I also know to modify the DX-60 to co
I too would be interested in the L4B's performance/use on AM. I may use the
DX-60 or T4XC as the driver, but same question, hi.
73,
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I think you have asked this before, Neil. From August 6 this year, and
quoted from Garey's answer to you:
Quick answer: Yes and No.
Yes, the same crystals will work in both, but are (or should really be)
different.
The R-4 BAND oscillator is a tube, and the crystals are probably (or should
Jim,
That is indeed sad news. Tom was one of those special guys that knew just
how to help a guy who asked. He will indeed be missed.
73, Tom,
Don, WB5HAK
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That's sure the ad I remember, Terry. Horned-rim glasses and all, hi. Nice
station, but I couldn't come close to owning one then. I wish I had built my
"counter" space in the shack with that tilted section. Hind sight, you know.
Sure would make it easier, but my shack is NEVER that clean an
Is anyone interested in buying a Drake RV-75 for your TR7?? If you are also
running the Drake R7 with your station and are interested in the RV75,
please let me know as I might have another item of interest to you, hi. No
fire sale, so don't expect it to be cheaper than I gave, but I don't wan
Aaron,
I notice that no one has really answered your question. For my listening
enjoyment, I like the ranges 5.5 to 6.0, 6.0 to 6.5, 9.0 to 9.5, 9.5 to 10,
11.5 to 12, 15.0 to 15.5 and 17.5 to 18. If that's to many crystals, the
grouping around 9 to 12 megs in the evening brings the most i
Alfred,
Look at the bottom of any Drakelist message and find the link for
"mailman.zerobeat.net" and go there. You must be on the computer and email
address that you subscribed on. At the very bottom of the page is the option
to "unsubscribe or edit options". Go there and you can make changes
Think about it Neil, that subs in the Drake crystal formula for all 500 kc
ranges of frequencies from 0.0 to 29.1 megs. What more do you need??
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Shh, Jim, don't tell the Feds or they will outlaw it :-)
73,
Don
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I just HAVE to ask this one, Neil after looking at your posts. Do you read
schematics?? Since the headphones jack shuts off the speaker and both
outputs are both tied to the same transformer and are effected by the volume
control, it would certainly appear to be amplified. If you don't have a
Well, I guess I better chime in with some verbage on this too. I wanted to
get my license about 1957, but couldn't find any of the crotchety old hams
in the town I grew up that would help!!! I didn't manage to get the theory
and code training until the Navy decided I needed it, so I got my Nov
Mike,
That's really not a fair comparison, Drake having parts as opposed to Ten Tec.
Drake went out of the ham business MANY years ago but carried parts until
recent memory for many of their rigs and serviced them far beyond what other
US manufacturers of ham gear did. On the other hand, Ten
Well, I am one of the "few" I guess that was put off Ten Tec radios BY the
so called fabulous Ten Tec service department. That must have been an old,
retired by now service dept. I had nothing but grief with Paul Clinton,
service manager, in specific and usually had to get sales to get any par
Paul said "This may seem like a "trolling" exercise to some,"
And in light of most of your posts, yes, it does, hi. I have "several"
Drakes and several Collins rigs. I love different things about each and
plan to keep ALL as long as I can enjoy and maintain them. I think you
should have bo
It would be a help if you would give us a name and call if you have one so we
can get to know you a little. Also, it would help if we knew which Drake gear
in specific that interests you. There is a WIDE range of Drakes, so it helps
to narrow down some. There is a WEALTH of knowledge on this
Bud,
It must be your mail program or something. I'm not getting duplicates.
73,
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www.sherweng.com and the link for R4C kits is on the home page.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Man, you are quick, Dino. I was typing the very same thing as I saw your
message. You just can't beat Garey's CD's for answering Drake questions!!!
Also, Joe, for "intermittents", I would suggest checking the bandswitch on the
2B. DeOxit on the contacts, or at the very least work the bandswi
I would HIGHLY recommend the Hayseed kits, and have done the "under chassis"
trick in the past as well. The kits are clean, and looks original. I have had
excellent luck with them, and you have revived the gear for another 30 to 50
years in the process! Tom's kits look and work as advertised,
The worth of an AC-4 power supply is in the eye of the buyer. The serial
number of an AC4 is irrelevant anymore. There is NO "good, working" AC4 at
this stage unless it is rebuilt with one of Mike's boards (or possibly with
Hayseed Hamfest's new caps). All we are really buying at this stage i
Terry,
Have you rebuilt the AC4?? Sounds like the infamous bias cap failure to me.
73,
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Ed,
>From my limited experience, that is indeed the problem, the PS-7 is current
>limiting due to a need to adjust it. I think that instructions for adjustment
>are in the PS-7 manual. One friend's rig had a bad pass transistor and
>exhibited this same symptom, however. I would still try the
I'll try my Weller WTCPN station on more after that remark, Dino!! However, I
did try it on those can tabs in desperation, and even with an 800 degree tip,
NADA, hi. Just too much good, copper heat sink.
73,
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Don,
I couldn't get my 100/140 gun to do much more than move the solder around a bit
on the chassis. I had the same trouble on my outside antenna wires, so I
treated myself to a new 200/260 Weller, and it WILL do the job, hi. Others
recommend the huge irons, but I went the bigger gun route as
Randy,
I hope someone will chime in on the paint, but Mike March, K4QU,makes the
plastic end caps FAR cheaper than I have seen them on Ebay. He has three
sizes, as I remember, to cover the TR7, accessories and the L7 amps. Email him
at mikek...@gmail.com . No connection other than a VERY sati
I must have been on the "tail end" of the novice VFO ban. I was licensed in
the early summer (May, I think) of 1972, and STILL had that requirement.
I'm not sure when it was actually lifted. Fun times, sending CQ on 15m and
hunting the entire novice segment for a reply, HI. I only had a handf
Bill,
Welcome to the Drakelist!! Sounds like you have the Drake 4 Line fever, for
sure. You will find a lot of knowledge both here and on the Yahoo list as
well.
I have the dial plate you are looking for, but I have put out at least once
a hope that someone would take this NOS one I have an
Grant,
It's a matter of "personal preference", and you'll get as many yeas as nays. I
subscribe to the old school, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!". I suspect
some of this comes from VHF/UHF usage of coaxes, and they DO make a tremendous
difference there, but under 30 megs, loss is minimal i
Poor proofreading. Fourth line down, "hold" should read hole. Darned 63 year
old fingers, hi.
73,
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Joe,
Since I don't see a dozen replies to your problem, let me take a stab at it.
You hook from your AC4 power supply (the 2 pin "funny looking" jack) to the RCA
on your SB-200 to key it. ALC on the AC4 is already an RCA. I would change
the 2 pin jack to an RCA myself as the 2 pin plug, if yo
Mike,
I too found your instructions to be adequate for me, an old retired school
administrator, to rebuild one AC4 very easily. I plan to incorporate the same
kit in all my AC4's as I can afford it. I found it to be a high quality board,
good components, and with adequate pre-planning (picture
Jude,
I too endorse highly the AC4R kit from Heathkit Shop, but would caution you as
he will in the literature with the kit to be SURE that you are comfortable with
working with the high voltage found in the kit. If so, it's the best!!!
73,
Don, WB5HAK ___
That video is now on DVD, so much handier, and is done by Hi-Res. Also
available from Electric Radio's store and is the same price. They do a LOT
of Collins and receiver videos.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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ht
Thanks for the news on Donnie, Carl. I was hoping someone or some group hadn't
run him off. Maybe he will rest up and begin his fine services again one day.
73,
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Speaking of Donnie, does ANYONE know what happened to him in relation to
Drakes and Drake parts?? I really miss his participation in the reflector,
and he was just starting to build a nice group of accessories that are
needed. I do see him posting occasionally on QTH.com and other places, but
Hunter,
When you say that, is your usage mostly CW/Digital or SSB?? I am just curious,
as most of the time I hear this, they really mean on CW. If that's not the
case, I'm interested in trying that as I LOVE the mellow sound of my R4(X)'s
but they sometimes need just a little more help, if you
Yeah, change the headers when you send them to Garey and maybe the spam
filters won't catch them, HI HI.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Kevin,
You will likely find that the schematic you have in your manual probably
doesn't match the rig you have. Also, the manuals changed slowly, if at all,
during the life, only the schematics changed. Garey will have all the
schematics in the CD. One question though, why would you want to "
I got a WHOLE string of them. I guess Drakelist has gotten hit. Has to happen
occasionally, I guess.
73,
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Garey,
Have you found a "nice fitting" "good sounding" replacement for the
MS7:>)
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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Hope it worked this time!! Getting old and forgetful stinks!
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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I thought I saw an email recently saying that Peterson Crystal, the original
makers of the Drake crystals was still in business. I don't have contact
info. Then, there is always our good old International Crystal right close
to me in Oklahoma City!!! Finest crystals I know of (maybe a little
You posted here, Bob. Maybe it's your subject line offending a spam filter??
73,
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Kevin,
Drake made the TR-6. They are a bit hard to find, therefore very expensive.
They do, however, seem to work quite well and are good receivers. Heathkit
made one, but the number is escaping, but it's like an SB-110. That also seems
to be a good rig. Both will be "old in the tooth" and
The audio output tube is the 6EH5. If you are really "working on a R4B",
you really need at the minimum the manual, which should be downloadable on
the internet. Really should have Garey's CD with all the manuals and parts
locators for the things you WILL run across during the fix. It pays fo
I just got a very nice, early Christmas present today. Curt, KU8L, and I
had a very nice, LONG QSO on 20m RTTY this afternoon. Curt was on his TR7,
I was ashamedly on my Brand "Y" rig, but will try to correct that before
next time, hi.
Point is, this stuff works well, just dust off some of y
By the way, I am NOT a "thermal god", but just an old fashioned, near 40 year
user of Drake products.
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Mike,
I still vote for the "suck it out" feature, top mounted or rear mounted. You
do NOT want to blow that hot air across the finals and directly to the PTO. It
already drifts enough, and the gentle cooling by pulling air out will lower the
inside temperature drastically AND allow the PTO to
I just started to reply that we might consider changing the reply to reply
to, then realized what list I'm on. We've been there, done that one and it
"ain't gonna happen" here, so I withdraw my statement, hi.
We, as list users, are just gonna have to be careful on this list. Garey is
right,
Carl,
Are you looking for the meter face, by any chance?? If so, look at
www.ke9pq.com as he has some for sale. If you need something else, be specific
and I may have it. I bought some of that kind of stuff a few years back from
someone that offered and I'll take a look for you.
73,
Don, WB5H
Testor's has a nice, bright red in their model paint series. You can get it
either brush type in a small bottle or a small spray can. Either way should
last a LONG time and paint lots of these knobs, hi.
73,
Don, WB5HAK___
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What rig, Don???
73,
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Well stated, Jim. Thanks!! And a Happy Thanksgiving to all on this fine
list. I am grateful for the adivce/help all of you give so freely when
needed.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
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I sent this info to Don Jones, and didn't realize that I had hit only
"reply".
Can we please change the header to the subject line of the original message
when answering from the digest version of this list?? When we don't, the
archives become meaningless, as you can search all day for T4XC p
John,
You must have missed one email. Howard is a blind op and has the printed
material, it just doesn't do him much good. I wish he were closer so I could
help, but we do the best we can on email, hi.
73,
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Howard,
These questions make me ask "do you have manuals for these rigs"?? You
really MUST have at least CD copies of the manuals for tuning instructions,
etc that are CRITICAL to usage.
The two "special" cables are for INJECTION and CARRIER OSCILLATOR. The
others are label to label, as you
Richard,
I would suggest a shorted RCA plug in the mute jack on the back so all
positions of the FUNCTION switch will work giving you the NB and CAL
positions you might need. No other connections that I can think of are
needed at all.
73,
Don, WB5HAK
__
In the purchase of a nice R4B/T4XB set recently I got a mint, unused dial
for the 4 B Line Drakes. Was there someone looking for an unblemished one
as a pattern to reproduce them?? If so, I would send this one only asking
that it be returned and that I get one of the reproductions for my parts
Paul,
My personal preference is to put one fan over the T4X (T4XB, XC, etc) AND one
over the R4 (whichever variation). Both tend to run hot, and the transformer
on the R4 will get VERY hot without the assist. I put foam all around the
bottom, forming a good seal and making it pull all its air
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