Graziano,
not so much info about that but what I found on Elecraft pages is:
KAT1 F/W Upgrade to 1.3.
"Increases matching range for loads that caused PLO message."
-
73 - Petr, OK1RP
"Apple & Elecraft freak"
B:http://ok1rp.blogspot.com
G+:http://goo.gl/w3u2s9
G+:
Graziano,
There is no history of all the firmware upgrades for the Electaft
Classic gear.
The firmware is provided on programmed ICs, so no download is possible.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/31/2018 11:38 AM, Graziano Roccon IW2NOY wrote:
Hello,
Sorry for disturb but... What are difference between
Hello,
Sorry for disturb but... What are difference between the releases?
Thanks, best regards, Graziano IW2NOY
Inviato da BlueMail
Il giorno 31 ago 2018 15:55, alle ore 15:55, Don Wilhelm
ha scritto:
>Petr,
>
>The latest KAT1 firmware is 1.3 and can be purchased from Elecraft as
Petr,
The latest KAT1 firmware is 1.3 and can be purchased from Elecraft as
FWKAT1. The price is $29.95 plus shipping.
Since the Elecraft firmware is proprietary, and for the classic gear is
only available as a programmed IC, there is no download available.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/31/2018 9:36
Hi all,
I noticed that U1 chip in KAT1 atu module for son's K1 which I purchased
last week has label f/w 1.3 otherwise my own K1 has on KAT1 chip label 1.10
(if I am right).
Is it possible to get latest f/w rev. (download the code) or get the latest
rev. chip or even better say is it necessary?
Don wrote:
> When it has found a tuning solution, it will display the resulting SWR.
> Tap any button to exit the TUNE process.
It's worth noting that the K1 continues transmitting after the tuning is
complete, until the TUNE process is manually exited.
> ...if you have done a TUNE on all
in context:
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/Elecraft-KAT1-AUTOMATIC-ANTENNA-TUNER-tp7609573.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Dick,
First make certain the ATU menu parameter is set to "tun".
Then hold both the buttons in the upper right of the front panel
together to initiate a TUNE.
If the KAT1 already has a tuning solution in place, the process will go
quickly and you may have to listen closely to hear relays
Hello,
I am currently trying to build up and install a KAT1 into my K1 # 154. I have
just updated the firmware to version 1.09 and made all changes of the K1
upgrade kit. Now I am working my way through the KAT1 assembly and operating
instructions revision C, Jan. 18, 2001. I am stuck at page
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] KAT1 installation
Hello,
I am currently trying to build up and install a KAT1 into my K1 # 154. I have
just updated the firmware to version 1.09 and made all changes of the K1
upgrade kit. Now I am working my way through the KAT1 assembly and operating
Thanks to everyone for the quick response,
I solved the problem. The modification was first mentioned in the K1 builder
alert #1 and is also found in the later than revision C manuals. The actual
description on how to do the modification or how to solder in RF-R39 varies on
the revision number
Hey Gang!
I finished my K1 this evening! All seemed well until I went to install the ATU
(KAT1).
During initial test (p.9), I put the ATU mode into F1.3 and then exit out. I
press WPM- WPM+ to tune and the display reads P2.3 instead of the r8.5 that's
expected. In the troubleshooting,
Andy,
That trace cut was not to be done on a new K1 RF board. You will have
to remove the resistors and capacitor and repair the trace cut with a
jumper wire. Check page 7 - the i in a triangle informational item
near the bottom of the page - it says to skip the next 5 steps if your
board
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] KAT1 Install Troubles
Andy,
That trace cut was not to be done on a new K1 RF board. You will have to
remove the resistors and capacitor and repair the trace cut with a jumper
wire. Check page 7 - the i in a triangle informational item near the
bottom of the page
KB3SZZ
From: r...@cobi.biz
To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 19:43:28 -0700
Hi Ed:
I don't have a K1, but I agree with everything Don said.
Your situation sounds a bit strange
Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems to have difficulty
obtaining a low SWR with most of my antenna efforts. Most of the time, it
stays at 4:1 or higher. I have been successful at obtaining 1:1, but it is
kind of hit-or-miss and only works for one band. I live in a
Ed,
The KAT1 (and most other similar tuners) do have a difficult time
matching to a high impedance. So if you stay away from end fed antennas
that are a multiple of a half wavelength long, the KAT1 should be able
to match it. Similarly, extremely low impedances may be difficult to match.
Ed,
One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad
connections in your antenna system. An intermittent connection can
allow good tuning one time and poor results at another time.
73,
Don W3FPR
E Neubauer wrote:
Hello: I have noticed that my k1 (with the kat1) seems
) some outdoor work.
73, Ed KB3SZZ==
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:34:09 -0400
From: w3...@embarqmail.com
To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Ed,
One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad
PM
To: Donald Wilhelm
Cc: Elecraft Bulletin Board
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Don:
Thanks for the advice. I will definitely try those things, especially for
my attic system. Just a few moments ago, I got rid of my coax feedline
altogether and plugged my antenna wire (long wire
@mailman.qth.net
Subject: RE: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 19:43:28 -0700
Hi Ed:
I don't have a K1, but I agree with everything Don said.
Your situation sounds a bit strange though, because I know a number of
people who have K1's who typically have not problem loading all sorts
KB3SZZ==
Date: Fri, 19 Jun 2009 20:34:09 -0400
From: w3...@embarqmail.com
To: doublehelix...@hotmail.com
CC: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] elecraft kat1
Ed,
One other thing - if your match varies from time to time, look for bad
connections in your
I constructed the kat1 for my k1. I noticed that they did not include a 100 pf
capacitor for C10, but gave me an extra .001 microFarad capacitor. Don't know
if this was a packing mistake or a substitution of different value. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Ed - KB3SZZ
Ed,
That capacitor must be 100 pf. I am not certain about the extra .001
uF, an extra does get packaged once in a while.
Look for the 100 pF (the current ones have short leads) sticking to
something in the kit (if there is any tape, look there first). If it
does not readily show itself, send
I don't know if we're talking about the same diode.
The broken diode is not in the bridge used to measure fwd/rfl power.
I'm talking about D3, connecting the output of the buffer op-amp U2A to the
RFDET/DATA pin on P2. I don't know what it's for (what is RFDET/DATA ? I don't
have the K1
kratchkov wrote:
The 1N34 diode on my KAT has its glass broken. With what kind of diode can I
replace it? What kind of characteristics does it need?
The best replacement is probably one ordered from Elecraft. They should
only charge letter post shipping for something like that.
However,
- Original Message - From: kratchkov [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:49 PM
Subject: [Elecraft] [KAT1] 1N34 Diode replacement
Hello group,
The 1N34 diode on my KAT has its glass broken. With what kind of
diode can I
replace
Hello group,
The 1N34 diode on my KAT has its glass broken. With what kind of diode can I
replace it? What kind of characteristics does it need?
73
Matthias hb9egm
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The other day I posted an antenna question about making a K1 antenna
that avoids halfwave multiples ( thanks again to the guys who replied
offlist). From the calculations in that note and some modeling by
another op it seems the ~18m/60' is probably the length to try there.
But end-fed
Hi Mike,
Another option is to wind a transformer on a toroid with a 3:1 turns
ratio which will give you a 9:1 impedance transformation. If your
antenna has a high impedance,
which an end fed half wave will naturally have, the transformer will
drop the impedance down into the range of your auto
Has anyone tried either method? (That is,
direct connection of halfwave end-fed or tapping an inductor.)
Hi Mike,
This topic comes around every few months, so you can find a lot of
knowledge - both theoretical and practical - by searching the TenTec
and QRP-L archives for 'End Fed Halfwave'
You are right about the improved efficiency of the end fed dipole (i.e. half
wave) antenna. From the standpoint of radiation, it's identical in all
respects to a center fed dipole. The only difference is that you're feeding
at a voltage loop instead of at a current loop. For portable use, that
Wow. Thanks to all for the wealth of information regarding this type of
antenna. Plenty to consider! Deciding what and where to tradeoff for a
given use is what makes each set up unique.
I think I'd like a dipole/doublet for use when supports are available
and an end-fed of some sort when
Larry,
The null will be sharp, so try to find it again tuning very slowly.
I suspect your real problem is either with the winding and stripping of T1.
Check that carefully even if it means removing it to check the lead
stripping. Be certain the wire colors are correct - leads 2 and 4 should be
Well, this is a testament to not working while your tired. I have leads
1 and 2 swapped on T1.
This is why I like this forum so much. You made me go back and check
something I had already checked three times. Now I get to remove and
re-do T1!
Thanks Don,
73
Larry
kb5dxy
Be certain the
I just finished building my KAT1.
1. The Initial Test is good.
2. The SWR Bridge Adjustment (C9) ranges in value from 1.215vdc to
1.3vdc. This doesn't seem like much range and the null is not sharp.
3. In the Power Calibration I am using the DL1 dummy load test point TP1
to measure RF voltage.
Bob Cunnings wrote:
Maybe, for your line length, the 4:1 transformation is putting the
feedline input Z out of range of the K1 tuner on 40 and 30. It might
be fun to try switching to a 1:1 balun (or no balun at all) to just to
see what happens... since it's so easy to do. Beyond that,
Just completed my KAT1 for my K1 that I finished last night. All the tests
seem to work properly, and I get a r1.0 (SWR of 1.0) on all 4 bands (7, 10,
14, 21 MHz) when transmitting into a dummy load. However, when
transmitting into my attic dipole the KAT1 can only achieve a match on 14
and 21
One other thing. When, for example, I tune on 14 MHz, then tune on 21 MHz,
then return to the same frequency on 14 MHz, the tuner doesn't seem to
remember the 14 MHz setting. The relays clatter a while as the algorithm
re-finds the best SWR. Is that right???
Just completed my KAT1 for my K1
Maybe, for your line length, the 4:1 transformation is putting the
feedline input Z out of range of the K1 tuner on 40 and 30. It might
be fun to try switching to a 1:1 balun (or no balun at all) to just to
see what happens... since it's so easy to do. Beyond that,
experimenting with feedline
Hi,
I just built a KAT1 to put in the K1 I am taking to Norfolk Island
soon, and while it appears to work just fine, and remembers the setting of
my dipoles ( which have a low SWR in the CW portions) but I have to wonder
at how long it takes to tune, if I string the likes of a random
Thank you to all who helped. It turns out there was nothing wrong with
the SWR bridge -- it was right!
I spent too much time looking at the bridge and not enough time on the
rest of the board.
The problem with the SWR failure to null was an unsoldered pin 1 on one
of the inductor relays that
I finished building my kat1 atu and attempting to install it in my k1.
there is a jumper on p3 next to the antenna connector that I believe
needs to be changed to allow the atu to be used but I did not see any
indication to that effect. I'm on page 8 of the atu manual. any help on
this is
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] List
Subject: [Elecraft] kat1
I finished building my kat1 atu and attempting to install it in my k1.
there is a jumper on p3 next to the antenna connector that I believe
needs to be changed to allow the atu to be used but I did not see any
indication to that effect. I'm
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Help:
I found the necessary ERRATA CHANGE FOR KAT1.
Now I guess I need to re install the raised end of R36 on the
Bottom of the PCB
rc kc5wa
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I have just completed the assembly of a KAT1 internal auto tuner for my K1.
Everything seems fine so far but I must say I am somewhat unclear how to
properly adjust R2. The manual gives no instructions on the proper setting of
R2
other than on page 10 , about 2/3's way down on the page it
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