https://www.youtube.com/shorts/QFwzx6LwS7Y
On Thu, Sep 1, 2022 at 2:27 AM wrote:
> Sam,
>
> Thanks for posting that link. The video gives a really good explanation
> which is much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to do that.
>
> Regards,
>
> Marcus
>
>
> On 2022-09-01 00:39, Sam Sokolik w
Sam,
Thanks for posting that link. The video gives a really good explanation
which is much appreciated. Thanks for taking the time to do that.
Regards,
Marcus
On 2022-09-01 00:39, Sam Sokolik wrote:
some mansplaining..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWXCAxUzXK0
On Tue, Aug 23, 2022 at 4
some mansplaining..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWXCAxUzXK0
On Tue, Aug 23, 2022 at 4:40 PM Sam Sokolik wrote:
> The spindle motor is a brushed dc. I am planning on using another amc
> drive to drive it...
>
> On Tue, Aug 23, 2022, 4:33 PM wrote:
>
>> On 2022-08-23 19:29, Sam Sokolik wrot
The spindle motor is a brushed dc. I am planning on using another amc
drive to drive it...
On Tue, Aug 23, 2022, 4:33 PM wrote:
> On 2022-08-23 19:29, Sam Sokolik wrote:
> > Little Emco lathe with some pittman servos... Amc drive that takes
> > PWM+Dir.
> >
>
> Looks pretty smooth to me.
> Wh
On 2022-08-23 19:29, Sam Sokolik wrote:
Little Emco lathe with some pittman servos... Amc drive that takes
PWM+Dir.
Looks pretty smooth to me.
What Pittman servos are those?
What will you do with the spindle drive motor? Servo?
Marcus
___
Emc-us
Little Emco lathe with some pittman servos... Amc drive that takes
PWM+Dir.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sUz5ZZyf2LU
Of course caveats..
-with the input scale of 50800/inch - speed limited to about 35ipm.
(probably fast enough for me)
-Tuning has to be good - because if there is an oscillati
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 21:46:51 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 04 August 2020 21:26:28 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > So the parts come out about 0.4mm to large no matter what size they
> > are. It is because of surface imperfection of is the side very
> > smooth and flat?
>
> Doesn't look that
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 21:26:28 Chris Albertson wrote:
> So the parts come out about 0.4mm to large no matter what size they
> are. It is because of surface imperfection of is the side very smooth
> and flat?
Doesn't look that bad.
> I would measure after doing a bit of sandpapering to true
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 21:11:56 Bruce Layne wrote:
> I agree with Chris. I want the CAD model to represent the actual part
> and not some fudge factor version of the part. If you don't want to
> tweak the dimensions of the CAD model and you don't want to try to
> tweak the printer settings wh
So the parts come out about 0.4mm to large no matter what size they are.
It is because of surface imperfection of is the side very smooth and flat?
I would measure after doing a bit of sandpapering to true up the sides.
With a milling machine the tool marks are scratches below the surface but
w
I agree with Chris. I want the CAD model to represent the actual part
and not some fudge factor version of the part. If you don't want to
tweak the dimensions of the CAD model and you don't want to try to tweak
the printer settings which can be tedious and difficult, you can easily
adjust the sca
Selecting a feature in the Tree View or Combo View windows on the left
side of the FreeCAD screen and pressing the space bar to hide or show
that feature works the same for me in the 0.19 app image as it did in
previous FreeCAD versions. I also tested it to ensure that it would
hide and reveal an
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 16:13:52 Bari wrote:
I finally got around to measureing the 5x5 cube I did this morning.
X=5.31mm,10.40,15.45,20.58,25.55
Y=5.25,10.35,15.40,20.4925.62
Z=brim 0.70,5,61,10.54,15.57,20.43,25.39
The top 5x5 has a fat spot near its bottom that reads almost 5.9. Only in
X.
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 16:32:45 Martin Dobbins wrote:
> I probably need n!. I find I can't even make freecad-19 do what 16 can
> do, make a part vanish so as to see whats behind it. The highlight
> coloring works on THAT part, tap the space bar to make THAT part
> vanish, and it blanks the who
I probably need n!. I find I can't even make freecad-19 do what 16 can
do, make a part vanish so as to see whats behind it. The highlight
coloring works on THAT part, tap the space bar to make THAT part vanish,
and it blanks the whole assembly, no matter what part I've clicked on...
And it all c
On 8/2/20 9:59 AM, Gene Heskett wrote:
Discussion, educational/reference URL's all welcome.
FFF/FDM is inherently slow and low res. A resin printer can make those
parts in minutes. The slow and cheap resin printers are under $200 USD
and print an entire layer 100um thick from 4-20 seconds de
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 14:50:20 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > That would quite a while. I tried by hand with a piece of 320 but
> > didn't do anywhere enough damage to start helping in 15 minutes.
>
> Of course you can just make the hole larger in the CAD file and
> reprint. But I hate to do that
>
> That would quite a while. I tried by hand with a piece of 320 but didn't
> do anywhere enough damage to start helping in 15 minutes.
Of course you can just make the hole larger in the CAD file and reprint.
But I hate to do that as then I'd not be able to re-use the CAD file for
CNC milling o
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 13:23:41 Chris Albertson wrote:
> On Tue, Aug 4, 2020 at 7:11 AM Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > On Tuesday 04 August 2020 05:23:49 andy pugh wrote:
> > > On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 09:49, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > > And the
> > > > hole size isn't shown in freecad, or I don't kno
On Tue, Aug 4, 2020 at 7:11 AM Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Tuesday 04 August 2020 05:23:49 andy pugh wrote:
>
> > On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 09:49, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > > And the
> > > hole size isn't shown in freecad, or I don't know how to display it.
> >
> > You might need to measure it. As it is
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 10:27:28 andy pugh wrote:
> On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 15:11, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Freecad doesn't show me that from the step file input either.
>
> https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Part_Measure_Linear ?
not sure if that applies to debians version 16.0, so I've the 19 AppImage
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 05:47:46 Chris Albertson wrote:
> If a 25mm cube prints as 25.04 it may not be because the scale is off.
> You would only know that if you printed a second 50mm cube and it was
> 50.08 My guess is that on your printer the 50mm cube would be 50.04
>
Thats been my impress
On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 15:11, Gene Heskett wrote:
> Freecad doesn't show me that from the step file input either.
https://wiki.freecadweb.org/Part_Measure_Linear ?
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attachment and is
designed for the especial use of mechanical geniuses, darede
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 05:23:49 andy pugh wrote:
> On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 09:49, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > And the
> > hole size isn't shown in freecad, or I don't know how to display it.
>
> You might need to measure it. As it is STL that will end up being
> vertex-to-vertex so may take a few at
If a 25mm cube prints as 25.04 it may not be because the scale is off.
You would only know that if you printed a second 50mm cube and it was
50.08 My guess is that on your printer the 50mm cube would be 50.04
The printer should have both a scale factor and a bias. you would hope the
scale is 1.
On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 09:49, Gene Heskett wrote:
> And the
> hole size isn't shown in freecad, or I don't know how to display it.
You might need to measure it. As it is STL that will end up being
vertex-to-vertex so may take a few attempts to find the maximum.
In fact that could be part of the p
On Tuesday 04 August 2020 03:42:59 andy pugh wrote:
> On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 01:45, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > While I was out, getting a legal thing underway, the 6807 bearings
> > showed up, but they do not fit, the pieces that go inside need a BIG
> > hammer, and where they fit in the main body sh
On Tue, 4 Aug 2020 at 01:45, Gene Heskett wrote:
> While I was out, getting a legal thing underway, the 6807 bearings showed
> up, but they do not fit, the pieces that go inside need a BIG hammer,
> and where they fit in the main body shell is too small by half a mm.
What is the hole size in the
> Now if I could reduce the support fill in
> the horizontal bolt holes... Those are hard to clean out. 50% is too
> solid.
You can do this in Cura.
On the left side, after you load and select and STL object are some icons
that allow you to modify the print properties if PARTS of objects. Y
On Sunday 02 August 2020 22:52:18 Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users wrote:
> I use glue stick then gently wipe it around with a damp paper towel to
> smooth it before I start the printer. The heating bed dries the glue.
>
> On Sunday, August 2, 2020, 1:15:33 PM MDT, Bruce Layne
> wrote:
>
> On 8/2
On Sunday 02 August 2020 21:05:48 Gene Heskett wrote:
> On Sunday 02 August 2020 19:48:25 Chris Albertson wrote:
> > When Amazon starts their drone delivery I think I will even order
> > stuff I have no use for (Children's shoes?) just so I can watch the
> > drone fly in and drop the box.
> >
> >
I use glue stick then gently wipe it around with a damp paper towel to smooth
it before I start the printer. The heating bed dries the glue.
On Sunday, August 2, 2020, 1:15:33 PM MDT, Bruce Layne
wrote:
On 8/2/20 2:43 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> One the right in particular, there is no room
Put the glass on and try a small test print to see what, if any, effect it has.
On Sunday, August 2, 2020, 9:02:42 AM MDT, Gene Heskett
wrote:
Greetings all;
Several question mark below.
Those glass plates for my ender-3 Pro's build plate use have arrived, and
I'm somewhat taken aback
On Sunday 02 August 2020 19:48:25 Chris Albertson wrote:
> When Amazon starts their drone delivery I think I will even order
> stuff I have no use for (Children's shoes?) just so I can watch the
> drone fly in and drop the box.
>
> Which glue matters. I bought a few different brands at the dollar
When Amazon starts their drone delivery I think I will even order stuff I
have no use for (Children's shoes?) just so I can watch the drone fly in
and drop the box.
Which glue matters. I bought a few different brands at the dollar store
and found "Avon" brand is the best of the brands they cary a
On Sunday 02 August 2020 17:43:59 Bruce Layne wrote:
> Gene: Send me your USPS address and I'll mail you a free glue stick
> that's 99.44% coronavirus free. :-)
>
> Or buy a glue stick on Amazon.
>
> https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Strength-Washable-1-4-Ounces-E590/dp/B00
>8M56Z0O
>
> Coronavir
Gene: Send me your USPS address and I'll mail you a free glue stick
that's 99.44% coronavirus free. :-)
Or buy a glue stick on Amazon.
https://www.amazon.com/Elmers-Strength-Washable-1-4-Ounces-E590/dp/B008M56Z0O
Coronavirus not withstanding, it's seldom worth me making a 15 minute
trip to
On Sunday 02 August 2020 15:12:39 Bruce Layne wrote:
> On 8/2/20 2:43 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > One the right in particular, there is no room for anything. About
> > 1mm clearance between the plate and the upright carrying the PSU
> > too.
>
> It's usually possible to pinch the wire handle on a
On 8/2/20 2:43 PM, Gene Heskett wrote:
> One the right in particular, there is no room for anything. About 1mm
> clearance between the plate and the upright carrying the PSU too.
It's usually possible to pinch the wire handle on a bulldog clip and
lift the compressed handle out of the spring s
On Sunday 02 August 2020 14:07:17 Marcus Bowman wrote:
> > On Sunday 02 August 2020 13:32:03 Bruce Layne wrote:
> >> I'd 3D print some low profile clips for the glass plate
>
> I used Bulldog clips. I cut the handles short on to of them, to stop
> them fouling the uprights as the platform passes t
> On Sunday 02 August 2020 13:32:03 Bruce Layne wrote:
>
>> I'd 3D print some low profile clips for the glass plate
I used Bulldog clips. I cut the handles short on to of them, to stop them
fouling the uprights as the platform passes through. Basically, I used 1 clip
per side. Works fine.
>
On Sunday 02 August 2020 13:32:03 Bruce Layne wrote:
> I'd 3D print some low profile clips for the glass plate, or (my
> preference) use high temperature double sided adhesive to secure the
> glass plate to the print bed. I initially thought I'd be swapping
> glass beds between prints, but in pra
I'd 3D print some low profile clips for the glass plate, or (my
preference) use high temperature double sided adhesive to secure the
glass plate to the print bed. I initially thought I'd be swapping glass
beds between prints, but in practice, I prefer having the glass bed
fixed to the printer. K
On Sunday 02 August 2020 12:51:31 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Just print a test object. If the motor misses steps you can hear it.
>
> Also, you can adjust the acceleration limit in Cura. I think this is
> the best place to do it too. In Cura you know what you are printing
> and can adjust based o
On Sunday 02 August 2020 12:10:30 Thaddeus Waldner wrote:
> I’ll chime in with my 2 bits.
>
> One issue is whether the motors have enough torque to actually drive
> the load at the specified acceleration. You probably knew that. :)
> Maybe install the plate and strap a small weight to the glass to
Just print a test object. If the motor misses steps you can hear it.
Also, you can adjust the acceleration limit in Cura. I think this is the
best place to do it too. In Cura you know what you are printing and can
adjust based on the size of the part and if it is very tall or very wide
The 32-
I’ll chime in with my 2 bits.
One issue is whether the motors have enough torque to actually drive the load
at the specified acceleration. You probably knew that. :) Maybe install the
plate and strap a small weight to the glass to simulate a large print, and test
it. Many of these printers use
Greetings all;
Several question mark below.
Those glass plates for my ender-3 Pro's build plate use have arrived, and
I'm somewhat taken aback by the mass of a 230x230mm by 4mm piece of
glass. This at least doubles, likely more, the weight the y motor has to
manhandle, in my mind affecting the
On Thursday 18 June 2020 17:31:52 marcus.bow...@visible.eclipse.co.uk
wrote:
> Gene,
>
> Have you looked at www.gearotic.com
> or did someone mention that already?
>
> Marcus
No. I downloaded it, but its a winders.exe and I don't have a huge choice
of winderz stuff installed. So whats it need
On Thursday 18 June 2020 17:24:56 N wrote:
> If remember correctly something about involute gear used in a gear
> pump, you need the equation for the geometry?
Not at the moment Nick. I think I solved that problem with a teeny peristaltic
pump and a couple of timers rigged to be variable excitat
Gene,
Have you looked at www.gearotic.com
or did someone mention that already?
Marcus
___
Emc-users mailing list
Emc-users@lists.sourceforge.net
https://lists.sourceforge.net/lists/listinfo/emc-users
If remember correctly something about involute gear used in a gear pump, you
need the equation for the geometry?
> Greeting all;
>
> 3d Printer is working and actually making solid parts, now I need to make
> a couple gears. with enough muscle to drive this BS-1 clone.
>
> There's a parametric
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 at 06:43, Gregg Eshelman via Emc-users
wrote:
>
> It's Metric gearing's version of 14 DP, for which you don't want to have to
> come up with replacement gears.
I can make 14DP gears. (https://youtu.be/xdE46yvckbM)
--
atp
"A motorcycle is a bicycle with a pandemonium attac
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 at 07:35, Chris Albertson wrote:
>
> In the US, the traditional system uses teeth per inch.
The Inch version of Module is not circular pitch, it is DP, Diametral Pitch.
And the calculations are just as easy in that system, you just divide
rather than multiply.
In your exampl
On Thursday 18 June 2020 02:32:24 Chris Albertson wrote:
> In the US, the traditional system uses teeth per inch. but the problem
> with this system is "where do you place the tape measure?" The answer
> is NOT around the outside of the gear. You need to place the tape
> such that it runs insid
In the US, the traditional system uses teeth per inch. but the problem with
this system is "where do you place the tape measure?" The answer is NOT
around the outside of the gear. You need to place the tape such that it
runs inside the teeth. this is hard to do. Also here is a quiz:You
have
Module is the Metric version of gear pitch. A google for module gear chart will
tell you everything you need to know. There are also module <> diametral pitch
converters online in case you're using gear design software that only does Mod
or DP but does allow input of arbitrary numbers.
My you
I still say you guys need to print gears on an MSLA resin printer using
a dense high durometer polyurethane structural resin. They'd not only
look like high quality injection molded parts, they'd be as strong as
injection molded parts. Email me an STL and a USPS mailing address and
I'll see what
The theory with printed gears is that with helical gears there is more
material in contact so the stress on the teeth is reduced and that for
plastic we need this extra strength. But what I found is that teeth never
fail. The hubs fail first.
The better reason for helical gears is that they are
On Wednesday 17 June 2020 22:28:22 andy pugh wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 at 03:04, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > > Note, these are a daft idea. But I have actually seen a 9 foot
> > > diameter triple helical in my dad's old workplace. He did need to
> > > explain to me why it was silly, and why they
On Wednesday 17 June 2020 22:10:02 Chris Albertson wrote:
> Go to McMaster Carr and find a stock gear you like. If they don't
> have one you like then Grainger, SPD/SI or Boston Gear will
>
> All those sites allow you to download a CAD file of the stock gear.
> Of the CAD file types "step" (or "
On Wednesday 17 June 2020 22:23:23 Chris Albertson wrote:
> You can make a double-helical by downloading a left and a right
> helical and sticking them together. You do not even need to know what
> "involute" means as you just cut and past from McMaster Carr. Just
> keep faith that they know how
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 at 03:04, Gene Heskett wrote:
> > Note, these are a daft idea. But I have actually seen a 9 foot
> > diameter triple helical in my dad's old workplace. He did need to
> > explain to me why it was silly, and why they refused to replace it and
> > specced a double instead.
>
> T
You can make a double-helical by downloading a left and a right helical and
sticking them together. You do not even need to know what "involute" means
as you just cut and past from McMaster Carr. Just keep faith that they know
how to design exotic stuff like spiral bevels, they do.
Designing gear
Go to McMaster Carr and find a stock gear you like. If they don't have one
you like then Grainger, SPD/SI or Boston Gear will
All those sites allow you to download a CAD file of the stock gear. Of the
CAD file types "step" (or ".stp") is the most universal.
Then you use your CAD software to mod
On Wednesday 17 June 2020 21:41:07 andy pugh wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 at 02:23, Gene Heskett
wrote:
> > There's a parametric gear thing I have but its a sample of many gear
> > styles and I don't know how to cut it apart and use just the
> > external spur piece of it. I need something that o
On Thu, 18 Jun 2020 at 02:23, Gene Heskett wrote:
> There's a parametric gear thing I have but its a sample of many gear
> styles and I don't know how to cut it apart and use just the external
> spur piece of it. I need something that openscad can handle.
You could take OpensCAD out of the loop,
Greeting all;
3d Printer is working and actually making solid parts, now I need to make
a couple gears. with enough muscle to drive this BS-1 clone.
There's a parametric gear thing I have but its a sample of many gear
styles and I don't know how to cut it apart and use just the external
spur p
You could also use a parallel switch box.
Jon Elson wrote:
> Jeff Epler wrote:
>
>> If you want to share a single parallel port between a CNC machine and a
>> printer (a practice I don't recommend), then you can issue the command
>> sudo modprobe -i parport_pc; sudo modprobe lp
>> to make p
On Thu, Jul 05, 2007 at 10:42:36AM -0500, Jon Elson wrote:
> Jeff Epler wrote:
> >
> > If you want to share a single parallel port between a CNC machine and a
> > printer (a practice I don't recommend), then you can issue the command
> > sudo modprobe -i parport_pc; sudo modprobe lp
> > to mak
Jeff Epler wrote:
>
> If you want to share a single parallel port between a CNC machine and a
> printer (a practice I don't recommend), then you can issue the command
> sudo modprobe -i parport_pc; sudo modprobe lp
> to make printing work, and
> sudo rmmod lp parport_pc
> to let emc use th
On Wed, Jul 04, 2007 at 12:23:40PM +, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Hi all:
> Can any one tell me how to get my epson printer to work with emc2???
If this is a USB printer, then you should have success simply by
following the general instructions for Ubuntu
https://help.ubuntu.com/6.06/ubuntu
Hi Bill,
Synergy ( webersys.com) or google for 'synergy cad' should get you to
the site for a cad/cam package that runs on either Windoze or linux.
If you can do with 2.5D cad then the package is free. It is
upgradable in steps eg. 2.5D cam, wireframe and finally parasolids.
Without suppor
On Wednesday 04 July 2007, [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>Hi all:
>Can any one tell me how to get my epson printer to work with emc2???
>Also, is their any cad software that works with linux that we can use with
> emc2??? Many thanks:
>Bill
I don't have a printer actually on my emc2 box Bill, but what
Hi all:
Can any one tell me how to get my epson printer to work with emc2???
Also, is their any cad software that works with linux that we can use with
emc2???
Many thanks:
Bill
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