Greetings All and Happy New Year
Have a somewhat strange question. A friend of mine who owns quite a few
vintage autos (none with a 6-banger) told me that he had read somewhere that it
is not good to simply idle your old vehicle - you should always drive it. In
fact, he said that idling it i
John
Not sure where you live but here in N. Texas I took my 50' 3100 to the local
alignment shop shortly after I purchased it and they had no problem aligning it.
Ken
--- On Sun, 1/4/09, luke_the_drifter52 wrote:
From: luke_the_drifter52
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Alignment
To: old-chevy-t
Hi Bob
Congrats on getting the truck to the painting stage. The biggest suggestion I
would have is to make sure the painter has a top-notch paint booth. I don't
care how skilled the painter is, if the environment isn't clean and dust free,
you may be disappointed in the final product.
Ke
NOS AC style and it has an (engine) blue body with an orange top. My
Fram has an orange body with a black top.
Merlin - '46 Chevy 1/2 Ton
____ _ _ __
From: Kenneth Cluley <[EMAIL PROTECTED] .net>
To: old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com
Sent: Friday, December 5, 2008 12:
Steve
Wasn't the AC orange with black top?
Ken
--- On Fri, 12/5/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Re: AC bypass Oil Filter
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Friday, December 5, 2008, 10:39 AM
I'm sure others will give you some good detailed advice but, for one, you would
want to make sure you have "clean gas". May mean cleaning the tank (several
methods available), fuel line, etc. or at the very minimum installing a good
in-line gas filter.
--- On Wed, 12/3/08, socal_stovebolt <[
I hope you mean for your truck!! ;<)
--- On Sat, 11/29/08, jomox07060 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: jomox07060 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Over-the-Counter Body Parts
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Saturday, November 29, 2008, 11:48 AM
Does anyone know where
Larry
As always, really enjoyed your "episodes" with billybob. If you have to change
the oil pan out again you might try putting the end gaskets on the bearing caps
instead of the pan. I was having the same problem with getting them seated
when putting them on the pan. They would always see
: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008, 12:25 AM
Thanks Ken.
Where did you find the rubber gasket? All the parts that came with
mine were cork.
John
--- In old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com, Kenneth Cluley
<[EMAIL PROTECTED] ..> wrote:
>
> John
>
John
If it's the pan, I had some experience exactly like yours and could not seem to
get it fixed. The front piece of the gasket set was the culpret as it never
seem to seat properly and it would always leak. I finally decided to attach
the curved rubber gasket to the front bearing cap inste
Here's a link to Stovebolt's 08 calendar:
http://www.cafepress.com/mystovebolt.187203170
I assume they'll do one for 09.
Ken
--- On Wed, 10/15/08, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Is anyone doing a antique
John
Try this site: www.mar-k.com They have a lot of installation instructions
and diagrams.
Ken
--- On Mon, 10/6/08, john.millbery <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: john.millbery <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] 52 Chevy Bed
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Date: Monday
Hi Ken
The short answer to your question is yes the u-joint can be accessed without
removing the driveline or rearend. First I would drain the tranny and then to
expose the u-joint you will have to remove the 4 capscrews that hold the
u-joint collar to the back of the tranny and also the bolt
Rob
I've been a dedicated member of this list for about 5 years and it has been
terrific in terms of the exchange of ideas and information about these great
old trucks. I'm going to have to disagree with you on this one (even though
I'm sure you'll bump me from the list). I worked for the U
Depends on what you want to pay. California Car Cover,
www.calcarcover.com/ makes a quality cover but is probably going to be pretty
pricey for an all weather cover.
--- On Wed, 8/13/08, rnigel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
From: rnigel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [old-chevy-truck] Truck cover
T
Hi Rod
Personally, I wouldn't even attempt to try and restore one of those radios
although you can buy most of the cosmetic parts from any of the vendors. I had
2 different radios restored by a guy in Oklahoma and he did a great job. The
one for my '50 3100 looks and operates like new. This
Jim
I got in on the tail end of this conversation but I have a recommendation for a
chromer in Texas. I'm not sure what the shipping costs would be, but this
place does quality work at a fair price. I had several pieces on my '50 3100
rechromed including the front bumper, grill, glovebox, an
Goodrich), they recommend a rim width of 5.5-7.0 inches. The
original AD wheels were... what?... 4.5 inches? Any issues with
running these tires on a narrower-than- recommended wheel? Thanks
for your help
Tim
--- In old-chevy-truck@ yahoogroups. com, Kenneth Cluley
<[EMAIL PROTECTED
Chris
You've got a definite keeper there - both your wife and the truck! BTW,
speaking of sunset pics check out my "Texas Sunset" pic in the photos section
under "Ken's '50 3100" I had a friend take some pictures of my truck out on a
farm in Archer City TX at sunset. They're my favorite pi
For those of us that have had the pleasure of seeing Mike's truck in person let
me just say that it is drop dead gorgeous!! The pictures are great, but it's
even more spectacular in real life. Mike, I know this has to be a tough
decision for you. If I had the room, I'd love to park it right
Hey Dennis
First of all, congratulations on the "new" truck. I know you'll have hours of
fun with it!
I'll give you my 2 cents on tires. I bought tires from Diamondback Classics.
They are size LT215/85R16 and have about a 2 3/4" vulcanized whitewall. They
sit about 32" high mounted on
Dennis
I bought a cover California Car Covers http://www.calcarcover.com/ for my
'50 Chevy Deluxe pickup about 3 years ago and it fits very nicely, has held up
well, and does an excellent job as a dust cover. Mine is strictly an indoor
cover but they make many different types and have cu
I put this under the file section entitiled "Citric Acid Cleaning" From Nate
vwnate1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Here ya go Bill , just click on this link or go to message # 37801
-Nate
http://autos.groups.yahoo.com/group/old-chevy-
truck/message/37801
Bill Wrote:
>
> I'm not finding it
Donnie
There's a 1946 1/2 ton in Clear Lake, Tx over by Houston for $1000. It's
advertised in the Houston craigslist item #575642824
Ken
aeronca_champ_pilot <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
im in dripping springs texas and am looking for a good complete need
not be running chevy tru
Hey Dave
Congratulations on your new project! And also congratulations on deciding to
keep 'er stock. I know I got many hour of enjoyment and satisfaction (and
still do) in restoring and working on my '50 Chevy 3100. This group is loaded
with folks with a vast amount of knowledge about
Speaking of music, last year I bought re-conditioned "drive-in" speakers,
complete with pole, off of a well known auction site. When I go to car shows I
connect a MP3 player with 50's and 60's music to the drive-in speakers (through
a small amplifier) and put one speaker in the truck window and
Dave
IAW the instructions I have on installing my wiring harness in my '50 3100
the "ingnition switch (ignition terminal) connects to the gas gauge (E
terminal)". The gas gauge (F terminal) connects to the the gass tank sender".
HTH
Ken
Dave Caddick <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Dave
I'm not sure it would be safe to use a radiator hot cleaning tank on
aluminum? One thing you can try is buffing. I buffed out all the stainless on
my '50 3100 and it looks like new. You can get the different type of wheels
and compounds for different types of metals at places like
Cale
You also need to be careful about filling the radiatior all the way to the
"top". When cold the fluid level should just cover the radiator core.
Anything more than that will cause overflow every time - just ask me how I know!
Ken
cale_seavers <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Warren
I bought the $100 version from Classic Parts of America (Chevy Duty) about 3
years ago and it worked wonderfully. All wires were terminated with the
correct connections whether that be for terminal connection or dash lights
,etc. Also all wires were labeled and an easy to follow i
Not after it caught on fire!!!
harley davidson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: You actually saw a Dodge
running . WOW!
Wolf
__
Looking for last minute shopping deals?
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.
http://tools.search.yaho
Dave
Be careful with that glass bowl filter by the carby. I saw a Dodge Charger
catch fire at a car show last summer - filter above the manifold burst and the
gasoline caught fire. Not a pretty sight!
Ken
dave austin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Nate Wrote:
Once in a while
Hi Dave
As I mentioned in an earlier post, I (like others on the list) have used the
wiring harness from Chevy Duty. It's relatively inexpensive (about $100) and
easy to install. Keep in mind that it is not period corrrect in that it is
plastic insulated vs the original cloth type.
Hi Cale
First of all, welcome to the group. A great bunch of guys and girls here
that have a lot of knowledge of these old trucks!
1. I replaced my wiring harness from Classic Parts of America (formerly
Chevy Duty) about 3 years ago and it has given me no problems.
http://www.clas
reading you loud and clear jeff
Jeffrey Pohlar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Testing after a computer
crash.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsu
Ok Guys
Here's the issue. I have what I'll call an intermittent "ticking" noise (it
isn't constant and changes at times) coming from the front part of the engine.
It really sounds like it's coming from the water pump but the pump does not
leak and it doesn't seem loose when trying to mov
o tear
into her yet. Ken, what tranny are you running? And yes, I agree with
you on the brakes. I'm planning a whole front end upgrade to include
discs.
Chris
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Cluley
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Chris
>
> I'm sure
Chris
I'm sure you're going to get lots of input but I'll tell you what I did. I
changed the rear end gears to 3:55 and kept the closed drive shaft for
originality. I also put steel belted radials on the original rims and it rides
like a dream. I can do 65mph at about 2500 rpm. If you
PROTECTED]> wrote: Thanks Ken.
Maybe that's the answer. Ficken has been getting some great reviews
anywhere I search...
One question; was Trico the original supplier for these vacuum
motors?
Galen
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth Cluley
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
Galen
If you decide to have the vacuum motor rebuilt, I highly recommend Ficken
Wiper service www.wiperman.com They have all the old trico parts. I had mine
rebuilt a couple of years ago and never realized how well vacuum wipers could
work.
Ken
Bliss <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Shame on you Ken, you are supposed to drive that old truck.
Mike Klepp
Oakwood, IL
http://mikes-old-cars-and-trucks.50megs.com/
'48 3100 Deluxe
'65 C-10 shortbed
'53 F**d Customline 4dr
-----Original Message-
From: Kenneth Cluley <[EMAIL P
All
This is a little off the subject but I'm looking at a used local enclosed
car/truck hauler for sale. The trailer weighs about 3500 lbs empty. I figure
my truck (1950 AD) weighs about 3200 for a total of about 6700 lbs. My issue
is whether or not I can pull it with the vehicle I have
Steve
You just can't keep a good man down! The miracle of modern medicine. Ok,
now we want to see some results!
Ken
"[EMAIL PROTECTED]" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The older guys in the group will be able to understand about the
ravages of old age. For the last two years
Nate
Take the period off the end of the web address and it should work.
Ken
vwnate1 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Jim ;
I cannot get that link to work , it says page not found
-Nate
> dazysnow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Well, the stovebolt pages aren't getting it done for
Zach
I'll give you my 2 cents. Glass is really not a show stopper. You can have
your local guy cut auto glass pretty cheaply since most of the glass is flat
unless you go with a '54 or newer truck with one piece windshield. I think the
issue you have with titles will depend on the state
Hey Brent
Sounds like you have a great project going on but you may want to ask your
question to this group: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
This group is mostly for the folks with stock trucks and, although you may
get the answer here, your more likely to get some lively feedback on the other
si
Durwood
Dupli-Color makes a high temp engine paint #DE 1620 - Chevrolet Orange. That
might be the color your looking for. Should be able to find it at any Walmart
or your FLAPS.
Ken
"Durwood B. Darbin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
To the ever wise and all knowing list,
Gre
Jose
In my opinion the only critical tool is the spring pliers. This is the tool
with the "curly cue" end that allows you to grab ahold of the spring on the
brake shoe and stretch it to the other shoe. I've done it without this type of
tool and, although doable, some type of spring plier
All
I suspect that I may have a water pump going out. When the engine is cold
the pump makes a pretty good racket when first starting the truck. If I spray
some lubricant on the shaft it stops making the noise. I haven't seen any
water leaking yet. Any suggested vendors for one of thes
All
Please bear with me on this one since I'm sure this has been asked before but
I probably wasn't paying attention.
I ran into a guy at a car show today who owns a 3/4 ton '53 Chevy with 15"
8-lug split rims. He wants to keep a stock look with original looking rims
with hubcaps bu
Kurt
As far as the stainless bolts are concerned, if you're located in a city of
any size you should have some sort of a fastener shop there that sells various
screws, bolts, etc. I used the local place here where I live and replaced
virtually every bolt, nut, and screw that you could see
All
I know this has been posted before but I couldn't find it. I have my main
gas line from the tank to the pump off the truck. Would like to clean it
before installation. Any thoughts on the best process?
Thx Ken
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chev
John
Where are you located?
John Stelplugh <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I have been offline for a while due to illness, but will try to catch
up on all of these e-mails from the club. In the meantime, I am selling
the engine out of my old truck. It is a 1955 261 in pretty good sha
Thanks Jeff and all for the responses. I think (hope) I've found the source of
the oil. I have a "T" connection coming out of the block with one hose going
to an external oil filter and the other to my oil pressure gauge. I had this
open to the gauge while installing the engine with only a sm
All
The saga of the engine rebuild continues as today we dropped the engine back
in the truck. While re-installing it we probably had it tipped to the back a
little too much because we were trying to clear the lower part of the tow board
with the tranny and I did'nt remove the grill so it
iests. Daron
Kenneth Cluley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: In the last post I meant to say that
the local judges do not hold the truck to a great level of detail although I
did have a judge in a local event that had me pull out the seat so he could
look at the original jack! I think h
In the last post I meant to say that the local judges do not hold the truck to
a great level of detail although I did have a judge in a local event that had
me pull out the seat so he could look at the original jack! I think he was
just curious.
Kenneth Cluley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Roy
My experience is that it depends on the level of show you go to. Most of the
local shows around north Texas the judges are primarily looking for nice paint,
clean engine compartment, nice bed, clean undercarriage, etc. I've done some
thing to mine that aren't purely stock (235 instea
now anyway, contains ZDDP. This only
effects newly rebuilt engines with flat tappets, such as our six-bangers.
http://www.vintagetruckmagazine.com/ Thanks for the update.
Mike Klepp
Oakwood, IL
http://mikes-old-cars-and-trucks.50megs.com/
'48 3100 Deluxe
'65 C-10 shortbed
'53 F**d Custo
Jeff
Let me get ths straight - you all are making a decision on whether to move to
Nebraska or Iowa based on whether or not your truck might rust? Wow, that's
what I call dedcation to the "old iron"! BTW, congratulations on the wonderful
piece of history you have from your great grandfat
ont clip to make the work easier. Keep us posted on the
progress.
Mike Klepp
Oakwood, IL
http://mikes-old-cars-and-trucks.50megs.com/
'48 3100 Deluxe
'65 C-10 shortbed
'53 F**d Customline 4dr
-Original Message-
From: Kenneth Cluley <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: old-chevy-
es ... in Whiteville, NC
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
- Original Message -
From: Kenneth Cluley
To: old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2007 1:05 PM
Subject: RE: [old-chevy-truck] Catastrophic Failure - update
Please understand my mechanical apptitude is somewhat limited.
Well, af
Please understand my mechanical apptitude is somewhat limited.
Well, after draining about 2 gallons of water mixed in oil, I pulled the
rocker arm/valve cover and everything looked normal. Pulled the oil pan and
discovered metal shards, bolt, chunks of metal, etc. in the pan. Jacked the
What was the last year that the 235 was produced for Chevy 1/2 ton pickups?
Thx
Ken Cluley
'50 3100 Deluxe
Wichita Falls, TX
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), t
All
Now that the sick feeling has somewhat subsided, I'm ready to start asking
questions about a major engine issue. Driving the truck this morning (engine
is '54 235) when, after about a 40 mile journey, I was coming back into town
going about 30 mph when it started making a loud "clanki
I got a pair from Mar-k. Very nice but I had to do a little fabrication work
to get them to fit.
Ken
tikuayla <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hey All, where can I find a pair of those aluminum looking caps that
fit into and cover the
rear opening of the bed rails?
Charlie in AZ, 52
Wow!
Bill <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
http://public.fotki.com/TommyDz/car_show_friends/bob_nolens_gmc_302/
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:
Autobody supplies, etc. www.eastwood.com
Jim Sammye <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi Walt. What or who is Eastwood? Thanks, Bruce
Walt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Check with Eastwood.
They have a paint to match.
Just my Thoughts,
Walt
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Jim Sammy
I also used Jeff at Bowtie Bits to rebuild the gauges on my '50 3100. He did a
very nice job.
Ken
Brenda and Robert Greulich <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi all need to have my speedometer fixed out of my 1939 master deluxe
can any one sugest of a good place
thank you robert
39 M
Jose
You might want to try the products at Eastwood http://www.eastwoodco.com/.
Personally, I've never found a "rust converter" that really works. There are
plenty of encapsulators and other products that might do what you want.
Ken
josé gerónimo márquez <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
John
Thanks for clearing that up. I personally have not had problems with the old
"Chevy Duty" and I'm glad to hear this wasn't the outfit that you were
referring to.
Ken
John Lupton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
The vendor I am talking about is American Classic Truck Parts
Are we talking about the company the used to be Chevy Duty? If so, I will tell
you that I've ordered numerous parts from them and have never experienced any
sort of problem. In fact they were my main vendor during a total restoration
of my '50 3100. Maybe they've changed management or somethi
Awesome pic Casey! Need to have that baby framed and hung on the wall
somewhere.
Ken
fffinc_casey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Here's a link to a picture of my '53 3800 with a little southern snow
on it. Thought some would enjoy!
Best to all,
Casey
http://www.flyingfoto.com/3800/
Matt
Make sure that you have the lock-bead tool inserted far enough into the
groove in the rubber seal so that there is enough seperation for the bead to
seat. Remember that the end of the tool is what widens the gap in the rubber
so that the bead can be inserted. I also put a little bit
I got you Mike. BTW, great website for your vehicles!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Am I getting through?
Mike Klepp
Oakwood, IL
http://mikes-old-cars-and-trucks.50megs.com/
'48 3100 Deluxe
'65 C-10 shortbed
'53 F**d Customline 4dr
__
C
Ok Durwood, don't start getting the Texans involved in this!!!
Ken
"Durwood B. Darbin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
UnObtainium?? I'm guessin' that when you were born the Doctor slapped
your
mother which caused her to set you in the corner and feed you with a
slingshot and you had
Roy
You're starting a great documentation trail for your restoration. And I'm
jealous of that big shop you have!!
Ken
rmarks10 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I am just starting the process of restoring a '51 deluxe half ton to
factory original. To chronical the effort, I have
Hey Charles
Did you get your anti-sway bar from Patrick's? What's the degree of
difficulty in the installation of an anti-sway bar? I have a '50 1/2 ton.
Thx Ken
charles olson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Hi Chris, I used to live in Orange County, until 2003;
now live in Sc
First off I want to thank everyone for their input. As usual, this group is
the greatest!
I went back and bled the brakes again using the suggestions that I received
and although I had a little more pedal it still wasn't quite right. So I took
Robert Baird's suggestion and rechecked th
Hi All Happy New Year!
I have a brake line bleeding question (or two). For a year or so Ive had
some problems with air getting in my brake lines and causing me to have to pump
the brake pedal to brake. I flushed all the lines and rebuilt both front
cylinders as well as the master cyli
Fred
You have to download a picture(s) in the "photos" section of the group. Look
at the bottom of this email and click on the photos link and it will lead you
through creating an album.
Ken
fritzthesalmonshark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Thanks for all of the comebacks. L
Welcome aboard Fred. I may be up in Alaska mid-Feb. Fairbanks and Anchorage.
Will I see any sunlight?
Post some pics of your project in the Photos section. We would be interested
in seeing what your starting with.
Good luck Ken
fritzthesalmonshark <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
I see you Walt
Walt <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Checking to see if still have a
problem.
Walt
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:
[EMAIL PRO
Just checking to see if I'm back on line.
Thx
Ken Cluley
'50 3100 Deluxe
Wichita Falls, TX
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Ya
Deve
I went and looked at my 1950 3100 and the spring you're referring to is about
6" long and appx 3/8" in diameter and attaches from the tab on the carb linkage
to a small hole in the flange on the lower part of the block just above the oil
pan. I've posted a couple of pics on the group
Holy Smoke Jeff
What type of vehicles were those engines put into? Or were they used as oil
field pumps or something else commercial?
Ken
Jeff Pohlar <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Just in case anybody out there has interests in IH trucks also. I
just came
across an Internatio
Lost in cyberspace!!!
[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Ken,
Looks like you are back; where have you been?
Mike Klepp
'48 3100 5 window
'65 C-10 stepside
'53 F**d Customline
Oakwood, IL
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
[Non-text portions of this message hav
Ken Cluley
'50 3100 Deluxe
Wichita Falls, TX
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
Ole Chevy and GMC trucks rule!
To unsubscribe, send an email (with no subject, no body, just the email), to:
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yahoo! Groups Links
<*> To visit your group on the web, go
I have Diamondbacks on my 1950 3100 and love the look and the ride.
Ken
Tom C <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Mike, be sure to check out the tires from Diamondback Classics...
http://www.dbtires.com/ They have an excellent reputation, and the tires are
supposed to be extremely good...
If you all haven't seen the slick computer generated Silverado intro on the
Chevy Truck website go to this link: http://www.chevrolet.com/silverado/launch/
Be patient because it takes a while to load and it paused a little on my
machine but once it fully loaded I kept re-running it! The t
Kurt
My 2 cents. I bought door window felt from Classic Parts of America
(formerly Chevy Duty) and the fit was fine and the material fairly easy to work
with. Also bought cab corner patch panels from them and was happy with the
quality and gauge of metal. They welded up nicely and look
I used 3M Undercoating on my frame and firewall and I'm quite happy with it.
It has a thin rubberized type texture and has held up well for the past couple
of years. Since your down to the frame you may also want to consider powder
coating if there's anyone in your area with a big enough oven.
the 235 to completely stop leaking.
stiggy44 <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Ken,
Any idea how often you would use a quart of oil before and after? I
have heard the 235 leaks no matter what, but I think I need to
replace my rear main seal.
Eric
--- In old-chevy-truck@yahoogroups.com, Kenneth
Hey Warren
This is a post I submitted a couple of years ago when I replaced the rear
main seal in my 235. Pretty tough job but doable.
Let me give you my take on this from someone who's been through it. Go get
the tool kit called a Sneaky Pete from your LAPS-this tool(s) is invaluab
Durwood
You might send an email to Dale Cosby [EMAIL PROTECTED] to see if he can
help. He rebuilds these old radios and it's likely that he maintains a
significant spare parts bin. He's located in Oklahoma. And yes, I forgive you
for the "Texan" remark.
Ken
'50 3100 Deluxe
WIC
Al
If you'll go to www.mar-k.com they have a good link to all the specs
including the installation of the wood blocks for the different year models.
Ken
Al Sisson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
can anyone tell me the hight of the blocks that the bed mount on and
how thick are t
Mine are original rims. I've had the tires mounted on them for almost 2 years
- no problems!
kevinjstewart <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: I've contact three reputable
tire shops to ask about the tires
mentioned below - LT215/85R16. Yes, they are available. But all of
the shops said the t
Kevin
I'll give you my 2 cents worth on this. I think you are positively correct
to go with the steel belted radials. It makes a huge difference in the ride.
I used LT215/85R16 size tires on mine. It gives it the "right height" plus it
still has a fairly narrow profile as the originals
Roy
I've seen them both ways and think the hood ornament looks good with or
without the stainless strip. I have a chromed hood center strip with a 1950
car (bullet type) hood ornament. I love the way it looks and don't really give
a s$%t what people think!
Happy Truckin'
Ken
Tim
That's one beautiful truck!!! Congratulations.
Ken
tim_ocasey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
Well it's been a few years of part time work on this 46. We did a
frame off resto and basically replaced, refurbed, rebuilt, redid,
rechromed, and reworked just about everything:)
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