I think you need to do an adjustment at the base of the shifter inside the car.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Steve Mueller [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hello all,
I changed out the shifter bushings and I'm trying to get all 5 gears and
reverse to work. Is
The panhard rod locates the suspension and rear wheels side to side. The
Panhard rod does nothing for the stiffness of the rear springs. Replacing it
with an adjustable unit or stiffening the stock piece will make a difference in
how well the vehicle tracks while being driven aggressively.
Sorry for confusing things by talking about the anti-roll bar as a spring
(which it is, it is a torsional spring)
In this instance the springs and the anti-roll bars are perfoming the same
functions. Controlling the roll of the body around the roll center.
Go to http://www.tirerack.com and put in your car information.
I can tell you that if you look up Plus Two wheel upgrades you'll likely find
some options for wheel and tires.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi gang, I need your help
Wow, you got lucky there! That was one of the few later model Shelby valve
covers with the one-piece valve cover gasket. So, go get a valve cover gasket
for a 1992 2.2/2.5 turbo. Technically they started phasing them in in 1989,
but going with a 1992 will guarantee the parts counter
Chris,
I have two 87 Shelby Z's worth of parts that I'd like to get rid of. Is this
all you need or do you need anything else?
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Chris VanKauwenberg [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi,
The car is an 88' Shelby Z, and I'm looking
I've got a heim-jointed setup if that helps.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Robert Meier [EMAIL PROTECTED]
anyone got a shifter rod for a GLH. I have NOS versions of all the rods
except for the first one that attaches to the shifter. I checked with local
He's probably using MegaSquirt (http://www.msefi.com) or perhaps another
aftermarket EFI solution that includes a distributorless ignition solution.
MegaSquirt is one of the cheapest and its open-source nature makes it one of
the more adaptable. You do however, get to tune and install
FelPro makes them. I believe the part number is in the archives someplace, or
you can poke around on car-parts.com to find what you need.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Ed Dreistadt [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I'm getting ready to pull the head off of my '85
Nope. Just stuff that burns up plug wires faster.
-- Original message --
From: Dave Krulitsky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I seem to have somewhat solved my stuttering at high rpm problem. Timing was
at 14, now back to 12, bought a new coil, and I also had to put the
The octane rating of the fuel may be part of it. Do you have a wideband oxygen
sensor, contrroller and datalogger? That might help determine if it is fuel
related. It isn't cheap, but it seems to help with diagnosis and tuning.
Anyway,
How do the plugs look?
What are they gapped at?
Type
GROUNDS!
I chased this sort of stuff for weeks until I finally went over every single
ground I could find. This was after I went over all of the primary connections
with cleaner and fresh grease.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: larry ybarra [EMAIL
I'm about to do the same on my 87 Sundance. Mostly because I just detest the
3-speed so much (not to say it can't be made better it just doesn't fit my
driving style or how the car has been configured) So I've got a flywheel ready
to go and I'm hoping to pick up an OBX diferential soon to go
Crap, you're right. Sorry about that. Thanks for catching that.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I'm the guy that always pops in to say Don't forget the trans mounts are
different! because I swapped everything over, talked with people on
It sounds like you've got a short in the wiring someplace. Remove all of the
wiring for the starter up to the battery and go over it with a fine tooth comb.
Make sure that the ground on the transaxle is in place and that your battery
connections are in good shape and clean.
As a test, try
Use the 525 transmission mount. The 523 mount won't fit your car as the frame
rails are much more narrow. You have to grind the 525 mount slightly to fit
the 523 transaxle. Its not a big deal and doesn't take very long. Test fit
the mount, then mark it and grind the offending metal off.
Which Eibach Kit, Daytona or Shadow? (I believe the Shadow ended in .140 and
had higher rates than the Daytona kit)
What sway bar?
What type of suspension (early or late)
What type of bushings/strut mounts?
Condition?
What wheels/tires?
I'm running Koni's, Shadow Eibachs,
The 86 and 87 GLH-S had a T2 top end and I believe they all had EGR valves.
In 87 the T2 in the Daytona and CSX (same top end) only had EGR's for cars sold
in Caifornia. On the 87 T2 Daytona's I have here in Portland, none had the EGR
ports machined for use. The 2-piece intake that came off
Make sure the black plastic rain shield is in place on the distributor as it
does provide some heat shielding from the air coming off the radiator fan.
Also make sure the fiberglass insulation below the intake (on the back of the
motor) is in place. Though in an efi system with a constant
I'd take one off and go to the local fabric depot or upholstery place to see if
you can find a match. Then use an original one as a pattern to have a new one
sewn up.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Mike Platt [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I have had no luck with any
Yup, ain't that the truth. Pop took his 17x7's and 215/45 !7's off his Daytona
and put them on the Ressurection project, our 86 Omni GLH-T. Made a huge
difference in the car's characteristics. Before the old 195's would spin all
too easily and they didn't really inspire confidence under
Well the U-joint is easy to check. Just get under the car and wiggle it around
and see if it acts up. Its the same joint as the older RWD Mopars use, so they
are cheap and easy to get and replace.
Good luck,
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: larry ybarra
Yes as they are essentially the same blocks and cranks. The pistons are
different as are the rods. For longevity you'll want to change the rods and
pistons unless you run very little boost. The blocks do not have the water
outlet or oil drain back holes in the back of the block for
I have an 87 CSX style wheel. Just need a horn button (it has a button, just
not the badge)
I'm in Portland. Let me know if you're interested and I'll get pictures this
weekend.
Stefan Mullikin
Portland, OR
PNW-SDAC Founding Member
1979 Porsche 924 (Carrera GTS Replica and GRM $2007
You mean this one?
http://www.kaminari.com/products/92ShadowSundance.htm
Or the rear bumper skirt that Johnny Spiva is working on reproducing?
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: David Salamone [EMAIL PROTECTED]
One of my customers has a body shop here in
Congrats on getting the axle apart. Heh, funny, I just did this with my 87
Sundance. Went up to 17x6.5 wheels and 205/40's. Bought a set for an Accord.
Looks pretty good and doesn't rub like the 225/50's on the 15x7's I had
previously. I lowered it using Eibach springs with Koni's.
Lemme guess, its stuck in the bearing supported extension on the passenger side
of the drivetrain? This is common when someone fails to replace the seal at
the end of the axle and/or grease the axle before installing it.
You could try removing the entire piece (two 15mm bolts hold the
Yep, they are all the same between the drums and the discs.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Rich Bryant [EMAIL PROTECTED]
That sucks man...
I don't have a spare set but thought I would mention that the hubs and
spindles are the same for all of the cars
Well, yes I believe they are. However, keep in mind that there were at least
four different style of rear disc brakes used on these cars over the years.
The 1987-89 external E-brake solution (actually works okay as long as you
maintain the e-brake system and use it regularly.
The 1989+ 14
Yeah, I'm not saying they don't work, but they actually increase parasitic drag
slightly (since the calipers don't completely back off all of the way) they are
slightly heavier with more rotating mass (which gives them excellent thermal
mass, but you don't really ever use it) as compared to
Buy a Grant steering wheel adapter. Then buy their quick release add-on.
Or if you want to be cheaper, then buy the Grant adapter and a Momo-styled
knock off and either a Grant to Momo adapter plate or redrill the quick release
adapter to fit the Grant adapter. From there you can get a Momo
Depends on whether you can fabricate in aluminum or steel? If not, then I'd
buy a BOV adapter pipe from Ebay or elsewhere online. Then simply attacht he
adapter tot he bottom of the Talon BOV, cut a piece of hose to run from the
stock port ont he lower hose to the inlet of the adapter. Then
Not sure if you knew already or not, but there is already a SDAC chapter that
covers Washington and Oregon. The PNW-SDAC. Http://www.pnw-sdac.org is our
club's website and you can sign up for the mailing list on the front page if
you're interested. There are a number of Washingtonians on our
Helps divert some water along the front of the block to reduce hot spots (think
of the standard setup as running in series, the diverter is like running the
circuit in parallel) and to actually pump water through the cross drills
instead of steam. The one on some of the T3 motors might need to
Mopar has them or perhaps you can check your local parts store.
BTW, I do have a 6-bolt aluminum flywheel that's set up for dowels. Its used,
but it is in great shape. If you or anyone is interested, I'll sell it for a
couple hundred as all my cars are 8-bolt now and I've gotten rid of most
The roller followers tend to allow for more agressive cam profiles due to their
reduced valve train friction. They also tend to be quieter (the real reason
Chryco went to them along with the phenolic timing belt tensioner and round
tooth timing belt)
I think his point was that the more
Its more situational. Some have found that when running a lot of boost that
high-overlap cams will allow boost to blow right out the exhaust.
Other have made good HP, but have had durability issues with some manfuacturers
of camshafts (the CompCams Super 60 unit in particular)
The rollers
I wrote that article (though I don't remember giving turbo-mopar.com rights to
post it there, at least boostedmopar.com asked first) So personally, after
doing a half-dozen conversions, I would recommend just buying all metric
hardware (makes it easier to service and its not much more than SAE
The performacne cams from Mopar are non-roller cams. The 767 cam is not
specifically for turbo use and was meant as an upgrade for a non-turbo car.
Not to say that it won't work, but it may or may not be what you're looking for
in terms of power output and power curve (as in area under the
I used to do them for people, but not anymore. I wrote up the instructions and
they are available on my club's website, pnw-sdac.org and on boostedmopar.net.
You just need 4, 10mm bronze lined female rod ends. 1, 10mm bronze lined male
rod end. 10mm bolts, lock nuts, nylock nuts, rod end
Stock specs for oil pressure is 10psi per 1000rpm. So that's normal. The high
oil pressure could lead to premature seal failure and of course costing you a
little power.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: robert long [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Yeah, I clicked on the
Hmm, doesn't look too hard to me to find:
http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/Category.asp?IDCatalog=78txtCatalog=Camshafts
They also have injectors, etc. As does turbosunleashed.com or
forwardmotioninc.com
There was a wonderful page with many of the basic camshaft specs, but
fwdmopar.com
Sounds close, my Rampage was 2320 with about 400 lbs of humans onboard.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Edward Mazurek [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Hi,
I was talking with someone yesterday who had a 84 Scamp GT
with a turbo I he installed. He mentioned that the
My stripped Rampage was around 2320 with about 400lbs of people in it after a
dump run.
Stefan
-- Original message --
From: Dave Krulitsky [EMAIL PROTECTED]
My 1986 glht, with me (200 lbs.) in it was 2640. I weighed it at a local
dragstrip years ago.
Dave
The Picnic site is reserved for September 9th. Our area is the second covered
area west of the entrance and South of the access road directly across from the
rest rooms. There is electrical access, a sink w/ running water, a near by
briquet barbecue and picnic areas both covered and open. The park
Let me poke around for my post on how I did it on my Rampage (it was an article
in an Up Front Newsletter quite a while ago) but I should have a copy around
someplace. Need to put it on the club website anyway.
Its not hard to do, just time consuming. Nab the rear drum brakes off a
K-based
The fuel injector harness grounds to one of the bolts that hold the fuel rail
in place (this is true for all of the intake solutions). On the back corner of
the 2-piece intake there should be a standard ground strap from one of the
bolts that hold the 2-pieces together to the firewall. This
Those were the three basic options:
T2/Auto (detuned I believe) or manual?
Maserati 16-valve DOHC, Intercooled turbo/manual (detuned to only 200hp)
Mitsubishi V-6/auto and I doubt the manual was an option
Its just an uglified. shortened lebaron with nicer leather and more expensive
body
I never saw your first message, but since you asked so nicely I'll answer this
one:
Fix your wiring, especially the ground leads. Once the code goes away, then
let us know if your problem happens again.
Charging problems are usually wiring related. Bad or dirty battery terminals,
failing
Its okay, it has it fair share of problems, but they are managable with good
maintenance routines. Its based off the old Torqueflite units used behind the
RWD vehicles for many, many years. In 1991 they made them with an electronic
lock-up converter to help with highway mileage.
Adding a
Auto's were typically T1's or 2.5L cars after 1989.
Manual cars could get either the 2.2 T2/T4 (in 90) or a 2.5L T1
-- Original message --
From: Willy [EMAIL PROTECTED]
I am looking for a new Daytona and I found one for sale. Says it is a 90
Shelby Daytona
The 91 high torque cars received the A568. The 1990 2.5 T1 cars should have
an A-523 if equipped with a manual box.
The High torque option was brought about as a replacement for the now dead VNT
option. The VNT's were too costly to produce when compared to the 2.5/Mitsu
optoin that produced
http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo.html
-- Original message --
From: larry ybarra [EMAIL PROTECTED]
What year and engine sizes have the same size fuel injectors as my 89
daytona shelby TII ?
And are there larger injectors that I can put on my car also like
As one of the people in the NW I think the big issue I see with our local
members is simply keeping our cars running. Many times this is due to a lack
of money, time or experience. I know I have trouble keeping my cars running
and I've got more than a few years of experience working on these
That's incorrect. From looking at the pictures and the part numbers, I can
tell you that it is infact for an L-body.
Here's how you get it installed in your car:
http://www.pnw-sdac.org/HowTo/Hurstshifter/hurstshifter.htm
I really like both of mine. It just takes some effort to get it
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