Stus-List Re: Transmission

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Best of luck David - my 33-2 could have the transmission removed with
the boat in the water.   Awkward but not difficult.
Dave

On Sun, 9 Jun 2024 at 08:37, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I am motoring from block island to home and just had the motor stop
> powering the boat. Sailing now with motor off and shaft is turning whether
> in forward or reverse.  Moving shift lever at transmission has no effect.
> Sounds like my transmission just crapped out. Can sail back but is this an
> in water repair or haul?  Dave
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Glen - I had a bronze and glass strainer basket - maybe groco - on my 33-2.  I sailed out of Whitby ON and the strainer did its job in shallow, weedy places like Frenchman’s bay and presquile bay.    Glad I had it.   Dave Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 8, 2024, at 11:43 AM, Matthew Wolford via CnC-List  wrote:I installed Groco filters on my 34 and 42 Custom.  Better than sucking a plastic bag or weeds into your system.  From: Glen Eddie via CnC-List  Sent: Monday, April 8, 2024 9:00 AMTo: cnc-list@cnc-list.comCc: Glen Eddie Subject: Stus-List raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI Hello everyone,  I was wondering whether anyone has installed a water intake filter system for the raw water intake on an atomic 4.  Specifically, the water thru haul is pretty close to the water pump hook up and any filter that is not an inline filter would require some right angles on the plumbing.  Thanks.    Glen EddieLegal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional CorporationTel: 416-777-5357Fax: 1-888-812-2557ged...@torkinmanes.comVCardTorkin Manes LLPBarristers & SolicitorsRanked the #1 Ontario Regional Law Firm by Canadian Lawyer151 Yonge Street, Suite 1500Toronto ON M5C 2W7torkinmanes.comAn international member of Ally Law​​This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. Thank you.  DisclaimerThe information contained in this communication from the sender is confidential. It is intended solely for use by the recipient and others authorized to receive it. If you are not the recipient, you are hereby notified that any disclosure, copying, distribution or taking action in relation of the contents of this information is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful.This email has been scanned for viruses and malware, and may have been automatically archived by Mimecast Ltd, an innovator in Software as a Service (SaaS) for business. Providing a safer and more useful place for your human generated data. Specializing in; Security, archiving and compliance. To find out more Click Here.Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bilge pump breaker issue

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Use a multimeter to measure resistance, +12v to  ground, from the load (pump) side of the breaker, with the breaker open, and the float switch open.   It should show infinite resistance.  If it shows very low or no resistance, you have a short.  Disconnect the pump/switch.    If the problem persists, it’s not the pump, it’s the wiring.  If there IS infinite resistance, then close the switch.   You should see the motor’s resistance.  If you see zero resistance, the Pump has likely developed a short.  Change the pump.  Similarly, You can also disconnect the pump, and measure the wiring and the pump’s resistance separately.  Same idea.  Dave Ex 33-2 Sent from my iPhoneOn Apr 7, 2024, at 10:09 PM, cenelson--- via CnC-List  wrote:
My bilge pump breaker has recently started to disconnect immediately after being switched on.I suspect my rule pump has failed and developed a short to ground although it might be a wire that has either shorted or it might be the water witch float switch.My thought is to just replace the pump and see if that does it—I have an identical spare pump on board. BTW, I never rely on the float switch when away from the boat—so this breaker is always off unless I am on board. Other suggestions from listers are welcome.Thanks,Charlie NelsonC 36 XL/kcbWater PhantomSent from the all new AOL app for iOS
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Make your own ‘glass backing sheets
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2015/12/making-fibreglass-parts.html?m=1

Dave - ex 33-2.  Windstar


On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 8:26 PM Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Don’t use plywood. Aluminum or G10.
>
> Joel
>
>
>
> On Fri, Mar 22, 2024 at 8:24 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on
>> my C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches.
>> Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to
>> fill old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or
>> plywood backing plates.
>>
>> Any other hints and tips?
>>
>> Thanks, Dean
>> BarraWind
>> 1980 C 34
>> Halifax, NS
>>
>>
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Propeller Strut

[Dave S via CnC-List]

If it's just about fairing, I would prepare the area religiously, and use
epoxy with fillers of choice, definitely including some glass fibres for
strength. If you load the resin with glass it will be a b1tch to sand,
so make sure you level it when it has gelled but not fully cured.   A super
careful wipe with an acetone-wetted cloth is a good trick.
I would first make sure that everything is tight, including the bolts,
(which often have their countersunk heads filled)   and that there is
no reason for undue vibration.  It would not surprise me at all if the area
compresses a bit over 40 years, and that as a result, the screws are looser
than they were when installed.   ...

Dave.ex-windstar 33-2 (who now owns an aluminum boat, about which he knows
nothing.)




On Mon, 4 Mar 2024 at 12:07, Peter Cowenhoven via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks guys.  I'm having the dripless replaced and it does seem fine but
> the fairing around the strut doesn't seem to hold up over time.
>
> What would you fill the area around strut with?
>
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
> 
>
> On Mon, Mar 4, 2024 at 10:37 AM, Novabraid via CnC-List
>  wrote:
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium vs AGM

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I’ll add (from experience) that  if you are daysailing and otherwise plugged in at the dock, you can (unwittingly) do without an alternator for quite some time as well….    Dave Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 20, 2024, at 11:06 AM, Richard Bush via CnC-List  wrote:Joe, thanks for the reassurance on the group 27's! That's what I have and I have been worried that I am missing out on something with my old batteries, but we are always tied to a dock as you describe, so I am good ---(for now)!Richard1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596; Richard N. Bush Law Offices2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite NineLouisville, Kentucky 40220(502) 584-7255






On Tuesday, February 20, 2024 at 10:57:31 AM EST, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:





If you are primarily going dock to dock and don’t care about being anchored out or underway for days, the old standard two group 27 batteries will do just fine, you are only dealing with hours of no engine, not days. 
I would still go AGM just because I hate wet batteries. We had one crack open in a hurricane and the extra-special smell was not appreciated. 
   
   
Joe Della Barba 
Coquina 
   
   


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 

Sent: Friday, February 16, 2024 1:58 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Lithium vs AGM 


   

Hi Brian,
 


I watched hundreds of videos installing lithium battery systems in sailboats and also in RVs.  I found MarineHowTo.com had a link to Victron diagrams and there
 are many many videos describing each Victron module on YouTube.  


 
 


I didn't go very deep into solar panels, which is probably where I'd start if our boat was on a mooring.  
 


 
 


My situation is different. 
 


Our boat is in a slip with 30amp power available and we enjoy air conditioning, no extra charge.  I couldn't build a lithium/solar system large enough to support
 air conditioning so it lost a lot of attraction.  We mostly daysail and return to the slip.  When we cruise, my wife prefers a marina over anchoring out, where they have a pool, so we take a slip at a marina and plug in.   We enjoy walking strange towns and
 learning the history and finding good restaurants and live music and meeting new people.  It's all part of the adventure of cruising.
 


 
 


 
 


Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R Annapolis
 



On 02/16/2024 6:03 AM EST nausetbeach--- via CnC-List  wrote:
 


   


   


Chuck, Bill and any others: 
  
I am in a similar position; my batteries are on their last legs.  Was hoping to make another season with them but need to dive into LFP batteries as a potential replacement.  Some
 people really like AGM, but my understanding is they need to be brought back to 100% SOC and I am on a mooring so cannot just plug in at the end of the day.  
  
Where / what sites have you been using to learn about LFP batteries?  So far I have looked [but need to spend more time at] Rod Collins “Marine How To” site, and Ocean Planet.  
  
I also need to get up to speed as best as I can on solar – so any suggestions there as well.  Have spent some time on the “alltestore . com” site.  
  
Thanks, 
Brian 
  


From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2024 6:15 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
Subject: Stus-List Lithium vs AGM 


  

Hey Bill,
 


 
 


I am replacing my 12 and 13 year old AGM batteries with AGMs.  I spent at least 40 hours this winter
 learning about Lithium, because decent lithium batteries can be found for a few dollars more than AGMs.  But I don't have room on my boat for the inverter/charger and all the costs of that and all the modules and cables, required to complete a system like
 that, pushes a lithium project way over my budget.   I am installing a Victron shunt to read my power useage and monitor various loads, and I'm adding some fuses at each battery, so I can always upgrade the system later, if it's warranted. 


 
 


I'll be adding a cheap 1000watt pure sine wave inverter to power my TV, DVD, chargers and coffee maker.
    


 
 


Curious about your project.
 


 
 


Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
 


 
 


   
 



On 02/15/2024 4:27 PM EST Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote: 


  


  



I'm a little surprised, I would have expected a progressive fellow such as yourself to be jumping into lithium. I am wasting an inordinate amount of time researching charger inverters,
 and I think although the lithium batteries may come down more in the future, I think because I need new batteries the time is now. 


  


Bill Coleman 


  


On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:34 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote: 






I recently got a big AGM battery that needs a big charger. I 

Stus-List Re: Lithium vs AGM

[Dave S via CnC-List]

C 33 mark ii Windstarcncwindstar.blogspot.comHere are a series of posts documenting my experience with exactly the same upgrade.  In a nutshell, 175w  of solar and 200ah of lithium house bank allowed me to be off the grid May and September.   (Toronto area, fridge running).   I think this is a perfect size for a 32-37’ boat, similarly equipped.    I sold windstar last year and the new owner told me that her marine electrician checked the installation and told her it was ‘done right’.   I’ve upgraded my new boat to LiFePo and wouldn’t think twice about it, unless perhaps I had a requirement to charge the bank in freezing cold.   The loads and use cases I considered are all documented on that blog.  Dave Ex- 33-2 Windstar Sent from my iPhoneOn Feb 16, 2024, at 6:04 AM, nausetbeach--- via CnC-List  wrote:Chuck, Bill and any others:  I am in a similar position; my batteries are on their last legs.  Was hoping to make another season with them but need to dive into LFP batteries as a potential replacement.  Some people really like AGM, but my understanding is they need to be brought back to 100% SOC and I am on a mooring so cannot just plug in at the end of the day.   Where / what sites have you been using to learn about LFP batteries?  So far I have looked [but need to spend more time at] Rod Collins “Marine How To” site, and Ocean Planet.   I also need to get up to speed as best as I can on solar – so any suggestions there as well.  Have spent some time on the “alltestore . com” site.   Thanks,Brian From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  Sent: Thursday, February 15, 2024 6:15 PMTo: Stus-List Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER Subject: Stus-List Lithium vs AGM Hey Bill,   I am replacing my 12 and 13 year old AGM batteries with AGMs.  I spent at least 40 hours this winter learning about Lithium, because decent lithium batteries can be found for a few dollars more than AGMs.  But I don't have room on my boat for the inverter/charger and all the costs of that and all the modules and cables, required to complete a system like that, pushes a lithium project way over my budget.   I am installing a Victron shunt to read my power useage and monitor various loads, and I'm adding some fuses at each battery, so I can always upgrade the system later, if it's warranted.  I'll be adding a cheap 1000watt pure sine wave inverter to power my TV, DVD, chargers and coffee maker.     Curious about your project.   Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis       On 02/15/2024 4:27 PM EST Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:     I'm a little surprised, I would have expected a progressive fellow such as yourself to be jumping into lithium. I am wasting an inordinate amount of time researching charger inverters, and I think although the lithium batteries may come down more in the future, I think because I need new batteries the time is now.   Bill Coleman  On Thu, Feb 15, 2024, 12:34 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  wrote: I recently got a big AGM battery that needs a big charger. I have a ProNautic 15 amp charger with a battery temperature probe that is necessary for correct charging of any lead-acid battery. It can charge 1, 2, or 3 batteries and has a lot of settings for various charge profiles.It works fine, it is only being removed because I got a bigger charger. They sell for $350-$400 new, I will send this one to any USA address for $150 shipped. Canada might be more, I would have to check.(Odyssey battery company told me they want their battery charged with at least a 30 amp charger and ideally a lot more, apparently they need to be hit hard to stay good) Joe Della BarbaCoquina C 35 MK IKent Island MD USA  Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C Corvette 31

[Dave S via CnC-List]

The corvette tugged at my heartstrings before I bought Windstar, and I had
a chance to look at several.They are quite a bit "rougher" than later
boats (more like smaller boatyard's' stuff) and there were a few issues I
saw across several examples.
Check the glassed-in knees where the shrouds attach.  This had either been
repaired or required repair in the boats I had looked at.   This repair is
not a big deal for a competent amateur.
Similarly, several had wet/soft decks.   One (sadly) needed much of the
cored area rebuilt, and the area around the lazarette could not be trusted
to bear my weight.  Poor guy would have given me the boat I think.For
sure check that.
Lastly, two of the boats I had looked at had hydraulic backstay adjusters.
 Both boats had very distorted topsides at approximately the location where
the shrouds attach.  It gave the impression that the hull had buckled due
to the force of the adjusters.   .
All that said, I'd buy one at the right price because they are probably
pretty easy to work on (myself) and they are very pretty.

Good luck.

Dave





On Tue, 9 Jan 2024 at 12:31, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Is there anyone on this list who has knowledge of or experience with the
> Corvette model, I have a friend interested in one, but there are none in
> our area; they are mostly interested in sailing and handling
> characteristics, maintenance requirements, and any known
> deficiencies...such as core de-lamination issues, or the like, thanks!
>
> Richard
> 1985 C 37 CB: Ohio River, Mile 596;
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
> On Tuesday, January 9, 2024 at 12:11:23 PM EST, Motion Designs Limited via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> 8 oz or 12 oz Rugby Shirts
>
> Lighter is a little cheaper but I’m thinking more comfort ?
>
> JKC
>
>
> www.candcyachts.com
> Motion Designs Limited
> 647 990 7752
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Or drill and tap the same collar, rotating the holes?Or re-drill  the same holes and tap and use a larger screw?Dave ex-33-2 windstar Sent from my iPhoneOn Dec 9, 2023, at 12:56 PM, David Risch via CnC-List  wrote:







Richard…I am sure a competent machine shop can replicate?
 


From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List 

Sent: Saturday, December 9, 2023 9:52 AM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: virb...@cogeco.ca; Matthew Wolford 
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly


 
I suggest starting there.  If Rob doesn’t have one, he may be able to suggest an alternate source.

 

Sent from my iPhone






On Dec 9, 2023, at 9:47 AM, Barry McKee via CnC-List  wrote:





Yes they are.
 
Barry McKee
 
C 29 “Discovery II”
Bronte, ON
 


From: Matthew Wolford via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com]

Sent: 9-Dec-23 8:24 AM
To: Richard Bush
Cc: Stus-List; Matthew Wolford
Subject: Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly


 
Is South Shore Yachts still in business?

 

Sent from my iPhone






On Dec 8, 2023, at 3:00 PM, Richard Bush  wrote:







Hi all; Bill is the winner for long distance diagnosing...; there is  a chrome "collar" or "nut' which is threaded and the the top of the rudder post which is also threaded; the collar is tightened down over the rudder post and sits on
 a delrin "washer" which is about 1/8 inch thick. There are two set screws in the collar to keep it tight n the rudder post.  The rudder pivots on this assembly when steering the boat.  


 


In my case, these set screws apparently loosened up to allow the collar to loosen which caused play in the rudder post. The result was to strip the threads on the collar allowing the rudder to drop.  The fix is to get a new collar, which
 I hope someone here can help my in identifying; there are no markings or part numbers on the collar. Of course, I have lots of photos.


 


For a quick fix, we were able to invert the collar and use the remaining threads ( about 1/2" to 5/8") to hold the rudder in place. I am confident that this will work until I can identify and order the new collar.



 


So it seems I have been lucky and my situation fits under Mike Hoyt's "good case" scenario rather than the whole assembly failing, which is the "bad case" scenario.   I feel a lot better than I did 24 hours ago, but will report back on
 progress.  I would have thought the C used the same assembly for all of the rudders regardless of the model of the boat, but maybe not...;


 


If anyone ha any experience or suggestions in locating the "collar, please send them on...Thank you to everyone!



 





Richard


Richard N. Bush Law Offices


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine


Louisville, Kentucky 40220


(502) 584-7255






 


 





On Thursday, December 7, 2023 at 03:37:58 PM EST, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:



 


 






I thought there was a nut on the top of the post. If so, it may have come off and it slipped down till the quadrant hit the hull. Obviously you are going to
 have to go down an look, and all things shall be revealed unto you 


 


Bill Coleman


Erie PA

 

 



On Thu, Dec 7, 2023 at 3:15 PM Richard Bush via CnC-List  wrote:






 


Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; my boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in
 the past week the rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how this happened; the hull  has been painted and the painters said they moved the rudder by moving the steering wheel and had no issues;  does anyone have any ideas or suggests about
 what could have occurred? and more importantly, what needs to be done to make the rudder usable? 


 


 


We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to provide more information if anyone has questions...Thanks! 






 


Richard


1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River...


 


 


Richard N. Bush Law Offices


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine


Louisville, Kentucky 40220


(502) 584-7255







Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu






Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu







Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu






Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Chuck - do some research on lithium, they are way cheaper now than even a year 
or two ago.  I’m in curacao at the moment refitting my new boat and am 
installing two 230ah LiFePo  batteries.  
As others have said you need to determine the math regarding the ac.   I’d 
strongly suggestadding a 3rd smaller agm as a start battery, setting up the 
switching appropriately, then using lithium batteries for the house.  You’ll 
never look back. 
I documented this on the windstar blog and I think the switching/acr setup 
would work for you but you’d need to be sure of your real overnight load 
(fridge, anchor light, ac, Netflix?).  And the recharge capacity of your charge 
sources.  

Dave 
Ex c 33-2 windstar 

 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 18, 2023, at 8:02 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey Josh,
>  
> Good ideas as always.
>  
> I'd really prefer to run AC off the batteries while on the hook. 
> It doesn't run continuous all night, but cycles and most nights, I turn off 
> the AC for the night after it's cooled down the cabin.  Usually around 11pm. 
>  
> I would invest in Lithium to a point.  Two lithium 200ah batteries weigh 
> almost the same weight as two 100 Ah AGMs. 
> tMy goal is to determine the best way to build a reliable system, identify 
> all the components needed, price those and consider all the wiring issues.  
> if it's too expensive, it will justify staying at a marina on hot nights, and 
> plugging in.
>  
>  
> Chuck
>  
>  
>  
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: No Traffic

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Sold Windstar (still sad) and working on the new boat’s refit and associated logistics, so only lurking….  Weirdly, That panic stop story reminds me of a friend’s cocker spaniel- it would get so excited when greeting anyone it would lose control and dribble all over their  their shoes.   We learned to shuffle and dodge till it settled.  Dave Sent from my iPhoneOn Sep 7, 2023, at 6:30 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:When I had 
my 39

hauled  out to the shop for a refit, we hit a traffic signal on the way out.  I saw them working on it a few days later.Then at the busiest intersection, they had to stop kind of fast, the bilge water rushed forward and started pumping out onto a convertible next to it! Bill ColemanEntrada, Erie PA On Thu, Sep 7, 2023 at 4:55 PM David Risch via CnC-List  wrote:







Your lucky you fit under the wires.  At 7’6” draft I can go very few places via road.
 


From: Richard Bush via CnC-List 

Sent: Thursday, September 7, 2023 4:14 PM
To: Stus-List 
Cc: CHARLES SCHEAFFER ; Richard Bush 
Subject: Stus-List Re: No Traffic


 



OK I have some information; we hauled the boat for repairs to the hull from damages received in March; we had to take the boat through urban; it was quite an experience;
 we had a motorcade of four vehicles; a lead truck, the boat and two chase vehicles; I've attached a photo, if it comes through; an unusual experience for us!


 





Richard


1985 C 37 CB;


 


Richard N. Bush Law Offices


2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine


Louisville, Kentucky 40220


(502) 584-7255






 

 






 


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Centerboard cable diagnostics or replacement

[Dave S via CnC-List]

No dog in the fight or direct experience with this model, but have you
studied how the CB is installed?   Does it have a bushing around the pivot
that could have failed?  Does it have guides or shims in the case that
should limit the lateral movement you describe?When the cable was
replaced was the trunk cleared of years of marine growth?
The fact that this is a new noise suggests something has changed of course,
and since the cable still works, it would suggest something other than the
cable.
FYI The board moved laterally a bit on my prior CB boat, and is reputed to
do so on my new boat.

Dave - Alubat OVNI 435 (with a big centreboard.)



On Tue, 15 Aug 2023 at 09:01, Richard Bush via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Bill, thanks for the suggestion; and yes, we listened for that, and other
> things, like the Head door banging, but it is clearly coming from the
> centerboard trunk; I can even see the saloon table vibrate when it hits!
>
> Richard
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
> On Monday, August 14, 2023 at 10:25:33 PM EDT, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
> Are you sure it is coming from the CB and not the stern? We get some
> pretty hard THUNKING sometimes when there is a following wind, even in the
> slip if the little wave hits just right under the stern.
>
> Bill Coleman
> Erie PA
>
> On Mon, Aug 14, 2023 at 11:14 AM Richard Bush via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Joe, thanks; this is a new development, we haven't had this "thump" noise
> before... we did run a line but weren't able to get a result we were sure
> of: I wasn't able to do a dive on the keel, but plan to do that as soon as
> I can; thanks!
>
> Richard
> 1085 C 37 CB: Ohio River, MIlr 584;
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
> On Monday, August 14, 2023 at 10:48:22 AM EDT, Della Barba, Joe via
> CnC-List  wrote:
>
>
> Do you suspect the centerboard is actually down?
>
> Even in murky water, it seems like a 20 second dive would give you the
> answer, unless the murk is caused by something nasty you don’t want to swim
> in. You could always run a line from one side of the boat to the other and
> walk aft and see if you can tell if the board is hanging down.
>
> Assuming it goes up and down as usual, the thunk would be side to side
> movement that the cable cannot change. Some boats just do this, I have
> heard of people swimming down and stuffing a sponge or two in the slot to
> get a quite night’s sleep.
>
> Joe
>
> Coquina
>
>
>
> *From:* Richard Bush via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, August 14, 2023 4:09 AM
> *To:* 'Stus-List' 
> *Cc:* Richard Bush 
> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Centerboard cable diagnostics or
> replacement
>
>
>
> Hi all; I have a 1985 C 37 with a centerboard; with the boat tied at the
> dock (we are at a fixed dock on a river) we notice a thunk sound that seems
> to be centerboard moving side-to-side when there was wave action; however,
> the centerboard cable remains tight and in its usual position (the
> centerboard is normally on the  "up" position, with the cable connected to
> a rope line which is on a cabin top winch. The line was replaced with new
> line last winter and is in good condition).  We were not able to see the
> bottom of the keel because the river water is too murky.
>
>
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions or information about replacing the
> centerboard cable; can this be done in the water with a diver? Any other
> ideas welcome, thank you.
>
>
>
>
>
> Richard
>
> 1985 C 37, CB; Ohio River, Mile 584.
>
>
>
> Richard N. Bush Law Offices
>
> 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
>
> Louisville, Kentucky 40220
>
> (502) 584-7255
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:

Stus-List Re: Lithium battery source in USA?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Joel- have reached out to them.  Dave Sent from my iPhoneOn Aug 14, 2023, at 10:51 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  wrote:Dave,I purchased batteries from lythbattery.com in China.  No complaints!Check your insurance policy to make sure the batteries are not excluded before you invest the money.JoelOn Mon, Aug 14, 2023 at 10:33 AM Dave S via CnC-List <cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:Hello all,
Looking to upgrade my new boat from agm to lithium and am wondering if anyone can recommend a source (industrial?) for LiFePo batteries.  Thanks!
Dave ex- 33-2 Windstar 
Now alubat OVNI 435 Sakura 


Sent from my iPhone
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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-- Joel 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Lithium battery source in USA?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hello all,
Looking to upgrade my new boat from agm to lithium and am wondering if anyone 
can recommend a source (industrial?) for LiFePo batteries.  Thanks!
Dave ex- 33-2 Windstar 
Now alubat OVNI 435 Sakura 


Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Age reversing C for sale

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Good evening all,
As I am now the owner of two boats, I am reluctantly offering Windstar, my
C 33 mk ii for sale.   Details here:
Windstar4sale 
and of course on the blog shared many times over the last decade.
Thanks, Dave
33-2 Windstar.
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Shore Power Adapters.

[Dave S via CnC-List]

The reason an adapter is not made from 30a to a lesser amperage is that this 
would be in violation of the electrical code (or codes and standards) as the 
20a rated device would be intended for use on a circuit protected by a 30a 
breaker.  Such a device would not receive csa or ul approval for this reason 
and would not be legal for sale in Canada or the USA. 
The adaptors you buy are typically the reverse - adapting a lower amperage 
circuit to your 30a power cable.  you could trip a breaker and be safe but not 
exceed the rates amperage of any device. 
Houses and marinas do have 250vac at the breaker panel.  The branch circuits 
are supplied with either 125 or 250 or both depending how they are wired to the 
panel.  
Dave 
33-2 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 21, 2023, at 5:10 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I think I may have given away my 30 amp adapters with my last boat, but a 
> 125V 30 amp male to a 20 amp female household plug would have partially 
> solved my problem last weekend at a neighboring Club. Not ideal, I know, 
> nobody  likes household cords going to boats.  A  125V 30 amp Male to 
> 125/250V Female Pigtail would have been ideal , but maybe not - I see Marinco 
> does not sell such a plug, which leads me to believe that maybe there is a 
> reason they don't. Maybe it would be a  bad idea to bring two legs of the 
> same 125 Volts into a 250 volt system.  Seems like  like inbreeding. I know 
> enough about electricity to get me into trouble, but not sure about this one, 
> and wonder if there are any actual electricians out there..I could buy field 
> plugs and make my own, but I don't want to fry my system or burn my boat 
> down. 
>  I do have a 125/250 female to 125 household male, which enables me to charge 
> batteries in the winter. 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Insurance for larger boat - 15 foot increase maximum?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I had unexpected challenges insuring my new boat, and in the end was finally able to overpay for minimal coverage.  Through the process I spoke with several brokers and got a sense of the climate.     Each carrier has its own quirks, rules and inclinations but overall I was left with the impression that the industry has seen a rise in risk in aggregate and has become more conservative and selective.  Boats with less than perfect surveys and older boats generally seem not to be  an attractive market for most insurers, (perhaps it’s the demographic!). unless the boat is a high$ ‘gold plater’.   For the small premium involved it’s seems not to be worth it to many insurers.   I had made my offer subject to insurability, without expecting it to be a problem, and it was.   One broker told me that she now recommends this to all clients.  Dave 33-2 Sent from my iPhoneOn Jul 18, 2023, at 2:11 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:I'm not overly surprised at this.  In some ways I support it.  I've seen some obnoxious, if not outright dangerous, situations caused by operators of larger powerboats.  Perhaps handing the keys to a 40+ foot express cruiser to a newbie isn't exactly a bright idea.Although I don't hold a master's license, my insurance company liked the fact that I was a certified Officer of the Deck Underway Fleet Steaming on a 384 foot, 2800 ton US Navy ship.  They give me a discount for that.--Dennis C.Touche' 35-1 #83Mandeville, LAOn Mon, Jul 17, 2023 at 9:06 PM Martin DeYoung  wrote:






When we purchased our 1956 Matthews 42 with twin 454 gas V8 engines we had difficulty obtaining insurance at any cost. After a haul-out survey, drawn fasteners, and certifying the survey findings we got to my qualifications to own and operate the vessel.




The insurance company that was most promising asked about my ownership and experience operating/navigating similar size vessels. They also asked about what training/education related to boat operation I had competed.




Fortunately, I had all those bases covered and we were able to bind coverage.  The cost is 4X what we pay for Calypso.  We were expecting 3X, hoping for 2X.




I expect newbies, possibly during COVID buying more boat than they could handle along with high payouts from storm damage is driving insurance companies out of the market.




Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Fuel lift pump 30-1, clean or replace with electric?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Nate - for what it’s worth, you might first try replacing the 42 year old pump 
with another that might last just as long.  This is the simplest fix, the pumps 
work well, are quite long lived, and have providing for manual operation to 
bleed the system. I can’t really see an advantage to an electric pump in this 
application.  (Have used plenty in vintage car restorations) 

Dave 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 14, 2023, at 12:26 PM, Nate Flesness via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> My 2QM15 is not getting fuel, It gets to the lift pump input but no further. 
> I just had the fuel polished after some crud problems, so likely either 
> there's crud blocking the diaphragm hole, or the new additives made the 42 yr 
> old rubber diaphargm  "retire".
> 
> Some years sgo there was discussion about replacing these with a car-parts 
> electric fuel pump. 
> I'd like to do that, but would love advice re wiring it and blocking off the 
> old lift pimp outlet.
> 
> Nate Flesness
> 
> Sarah Jean
> 1980 30-1
> Saint Croix Rivr, WI
> 
> Blue Raven
> 1994 Tartan 31
> Siskiwit Bay Marina, Lake Superior
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hadn’t thought of it before but even with a diesel this is a good reason to 
stick with a stock mechanical fuel pump if so equipped.   I’ve mused about 
‘improving’ my yanmar 2GMF20 but in stock form it has been very reliable.  Its 
fuel pump lived a long life and started seeping as a warning.  (I ignored that 
for too long  but that’s another story) it was dead simple to replace, bleed 
and get rolling again.   Sometimes less is more.

Dave 33-2 Windstar (for sale)
Alubat OVNI 435 (for sail) 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 29, 2023, at 10:13 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> On a gasoline powered engine the oil pressure switch is a vital safety 
> device, if you don’t have it and the engine stalls or you just leave the key 
> on, a leaky float valve will have your entire fuel tank pumped into the 
> bilge. I suspect it carried over in some ABYC reg into diesels.
> I have solved a couple frustrating issues on my boat with a fuel pressure 
> gauge. I would think about installing a pressure gauge on the output side of 
> the lift/low pressure pump on any engine, gas or diesel. Mine is electric and 
> is mounted in the cockpit, it lights up a red alarm light when the fuel 
> pressure is below 1 PSI.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, June 29, 2023 12:00 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Neil Gallagher ; CHARLES SCHEAFFER 
> 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
>  
> On my Universal M4-30, things work differently.  The fuel pump is energized 
> when you turn on the key switch, so that ticking starts before starting the 
> engine and doesn't stop until you turn off the key switch.  I think this is a 
> better way to operate the system and I don't understand why anyone would 
> interlock a fuel pump to the glowplug button and the oil pressure switch.  
> Too complicated and unecessary.  
>  
>  
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute, 1989 C 34R Annapolis
>  
>  
>  
> On 06/28/2023 8:53 PM EDT Neil Gallagher via CnC-List  
> wrote:
>  
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Dead Battery Charger

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Just went through this on my new boat.  
While it really depends on how you intend use the boat,  I would consider an 
inverter/charger and provide for an eventual upgrade to group 31 lithium 
batteries and a dedicated AGM start battery.  
I chose the Victron Multiplus 12/1600/70

Dave 
33-2 Windstar 
Alubat OVNI 435

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 26, 2023, at 10:23 AM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hello gang...
> 
> My battery charger died this weekend.  Its demise was swift, but provides an 
> opportunity.  It was a ProMariner Sport 20amp, and apparently did a good job. 
>  But...since I am not an expert in this field...and need to part with boat 
> bucks anyway, do you guys have better ideas?
> 
> I have two new group 27 combo batteries. No room for a third on my C$C 
> 37/40+.  What setups do you guys have?  Thanks.   
> 
> 
> Chuck Saur
> 
> 517 490-5926 Cell
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: Force 10 Stove

[Dave S via CnC-List]

As part of my OVNI 435 refit I purchased a new force 10 stove and retrofitted 
from camping gaz to propane.  (Cooked my first meal last night - sweltering on 
the hard in curacao). 
If you study force 10’s home page (or manual) you should be able to find  the 
10 or so ‘standard’ sizes.  (If there are 10 is it a standard?). There are euro 
and North American form factors, then within each of those, 2 or 3 burner 
(impacting cooktop depth, not width) then compact or standard (impacting oven 
height).  I bought a two burner euro standard to replace the original eno unit. 
 The owner (now ex owner) of force 10 told me that getting a standard height 
oven is a ‘game changer) when retrofitting.  Just fits.  
I bought 2 20 lb Viking tanks, made of plastic and spun fibre of some sort, 
very cool.   They were about half the chandlery price, direct from the 
manufacturer.  

Dave 33-2 Windstar (soon to be offered for sale)
Alubat OVNI 435 Sakura - (soon to be sailed!)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 15, 2023, at 3:09 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Sure Marine in Seattle has everything you need. I did a similar install on 
> out 35 MK1.  Tank, bracket, t, solenoid, and custom length hose to the stove.
> 
> https://flic.kr/p/26vv7To
> 
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> P 206.463.9200
> F 206.463.9290
> C 305.409.3660
> Skype - thombusc
> 
>>> On Jun 15, 2023, at 8:49 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> Joe, 
>> Fisheries Supply carries the 1.4 gal tall thin tanks, and the fancy mount. I 
>> just finished converting my Sabre to propane. One thing is, only one 
>> connection inside the boat at the stove. I mounted the regulator and 
>> solenoid valve under a stern pulpit seat. Teed in a hose to the grill also. 
>> On my LF39 I get a few  months out of a 2.5 gallon bottle of full time use. 
>> 
>> Douglas Mountjoy
>> 1988 C LF 39
>> Mexico at large
>> 1984 Sabre 34
>> Port Orchard, WA
>>
>> 
>>> On Thu, Jun 15, 2023, 06:35 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I have no propane locker. I am probably going to strap a tank on the stern 
>>> rail. I need to find those little tall and thin aluminum tanks. No way am I 
>>> going around with a 20 pound steel grill tank hanging off there, that is 
>>> too low budget even for me!
>>> 
>>> I may actually try a little torch tank and see how long it lasts. We do all 
>>> the cooking we can on the outside grill anyway to not heat up the cabin.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>> 
>>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>> 
>>> Kent Island MD USA
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  
>>> Sent: Thursday, June 15, 2023 9:24 AM
>>> To: 'Stus-List' 
>>> Cc: Hoyt, Mike 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Force 10 Stove
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Hi Joe
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> What was your plan for a propane locker?  Boats with CNG systems tend not 
>>> to have one
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> In our case CNG is easy to source but certifying the tanks is nearly 
>>> impossible
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Mike
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
>>> Sent: June 15, 2023 10:15 AM
>>> To: Stus-List 
>>> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Force 10 Stove
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Does the standard American size Force 10 3-burner stove fit the C 35 MK I?
>>> 
>>> I would assume it does, but want to check.
>>> 
>>> I am thinking of going from CNG to propane, CNG is very hard to source now 
>>> in most places.
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>> 
>>> DCSI
>>> 
>>> 410-966-7255
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I’ll chime in with an oddball problem, missed by two local diesel mechanics.  
Universal diesel, would rev with no load but would not rev with any sort of 
load.  This had been a problem for the owner (and his frightened wife) for 
several years.  I worked for about three weeks on this one - After pulling 
apart and verifying everything from the filler cap to the injectors, only the 
governor remained .  It turns out the spring was tired.  This spring tries to 
force the high pressure pump slider open to add more and more fuel.   The limit 
is set first by the throttle lever, and at wide open throttle by a centrifugal 
device (thr governor)  which counters the force of the spring.  With no load, 
the anemic spring applied just enough pressure to allow the engine to rev but 
with a load, the pump slider was not pulled far enough to provide adequate 
fuel.  
I clipped two coils off the spring, bent what was left to for a hook and voila! 
  The owner was stunned, and I could only laugh having spent weeks ‘fixing’ 
everything else.  

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 13, 2023, at 6:35 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Jun 12, 2023, at 2:28 PM, David Risch via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> If you re-powered, or just have a good running engine, and did not 
>> thoroughly clean the tank and tank pick-up.   Your playing Russian roulette. 
>>   Especially in  rough weather when all that gunk gets stirred up. 
>>  
>> From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
>> Sent: Sunday, June 11, 2023 9:42 AM
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Martin DeYoung ; Korbey Hunt 
>> 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
>>  
>> I have a 1980 34 C located in Ketchikan, AK.  I only use it in the summer. 
>>  It has a new Yanmar 30 hp engine with 300 hrs.  Last year when returning 
>> from a long cruise at good speed and running well for many hours the engine 
>> suddenly slowed and died.  We were in a channel and began drifting towards 
>> the beach.  After a few minutes I restarted the motor and it ran fine.  I 
>> suspect a fuel problem but never found the cause.  I changed the engine 
>> filter but it did not look dirty.
>>  
>> Get Outlook for Android
>> From: Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2023 10:24:48 PM
>> To: Stus-List 
>> Cc: Martin DeYoung 
>> Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
>>  
>> Transitory engine issues can create drama quickly.  Back in 1992 we had just 
>> taken possession of a 1981 C 36 and departed Seattle's Lake Union heading 
>> out to our saltwater moorage at Shilshole Bay Marina. This trip takes us 
>> west through the Lake Washington Ship Canal, under the Fremont and Ballard 
>> Bridges (needed to open them), and through the Ballard locks. The Ship Canal 
>> is narrow enough that it is rare to sail through it. It was also calm that 
>> day.  The engine ran just fine through the transit to and into the locks 
>> (approx. first hour of ownership). It is common to shut down the engine 
>> while locking through as it can take enough time to expose a few people to 
>> the exhaust fumes.
>>  
>> So, the lock gates open, the C 36's Yanmar 3-cylinder diesel fires up and 
>> aided by the outgoing current we departed the lock. Now it worth noting 
>> there is an opening single leafed Bascule train bridge with a clearance of 
>> +-48' at that moment's tide height a short distance west of the lock. Our 
>> 36's air draft was a little over 50'.
>> Given how the gods watching over errant sailors enjoy a good laugh from time 
>> to time the engine chooses that moment to shut down. It shut down in that 
>> way that indicates a restart is unlikely. The train bridge is also down. The 
>> current coming out of the locks is relentlessly pushing us towards the 
>> closed bridge. I am suddenly very concerned for the top few feet of the mast.
>>  
>> I immediately sounded the signal asking for an opening. I asked the boat's 
>> new co-owner to make ready to anchor.  I hit the starter to see if the 
>> engine would restart. It sputtered and died again.  I sounded for an opening 
>> again. Nothing promising was happening up on the bow in way of an anchor 
>> being deployed. I attempted another restart this time with the reduction 
>> gear in reverse to make use of any rotation of the prop.  I get maybe 15 to 
>> 20 seconds of run time which slowed our progress slightly. The bridge 
>> operator made the horn signal indicating he was able to open the bridge, no 
>> trains were in route.  I headed for the side of the bridge that opens first 
>> and hit the starter again hoping for another few seconds of reverse.
>>  
>> Fortunately, the bridge opened just enough and our path close to the opening 
>> end of the bridge equaled just enough clearance the mast remained intact, 
>> and we avoided an embarrassing episode where we would have needed to "strike 
>> the burgee", obscure the boat's name, and wear bags over our heads to avoid 
>> being identified.
>>  

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness x 2

[Dave S via CnC-List]

First problem - electrical in ignition.

Second - gas engines race when they lean out, then die.  This was a great 
feature in little pit bikes with centrifugal clutches - an unexpected launch 
before running out of fuel.  
Could be a fuel supply issue.  

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 13, 2023, at 1:18 PM, Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Atomic 4 are really reliable and need very little to run  ( good spark, 
> compression and almost any gas ).
> A sudden stop will typically have one of two causes, water in fuel or 
> ignition coil ( overheating or short-circuit ). 
> For water try adding 8 ounces of gas line antifreeze ( methyl hydrate 
> available at most hardware stores ). A good RACOR fuel filter with 10 microns 
> will prevent that.
> For the coil, try waiting 15-20 minutes so it cool off and restart, if not 
> well you have a spare coil on the boat right?
> 
> For the slippage, maybe some kind of cavitation. If it happens with reverse 
> make sure you are only using straight 30-grade oil or motorcycle oil ( I've 
> been using 10w40 Castrol motorcycle oil for the last 26 years. Modern oils 
> have way too much antifriction additives and lack the famous ZDDP that used 
> to be added to protect engines.
> Don Moyer made a good video on youtube to help troubleshoot sudden engine 
> powerdown.
> 
> Sylvain
> C 
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, June 13, 2023 at 01:43:08 AM EDT, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Since we are on stories of oddness I have 2.
> 
> First, when cruising along at modest rpm, will have a sudden shut down. Just 
> off. No change in sound, smell, rpm, etc just as if ignition switch cut out. 
> Suspecting a loose connection I proofed all wires / connections and we'll 
> test it out cruising around next week. Any odd ideas to keep in mind?
> 
> Second, episodically when motoring at higher rpm close to hull speed will 
> have a sudden racing of the engine with loss of power. Pull back throttle, 
> and goes back to normal but not unusual to reoccur. Haven't noticed it at 
> lower speed or rpm.
> I'm suspicious of cavitation but haven't thought it thru as to causes, tests 
> of theory, remedies or other options. Thoughts?
> 
> C 29 Mark 1 with a recently rebuilt Atomic 4 and 2 bade folding prop.
> 
> Karl Kuzis 
> Firefly 
> C Mk1
> karl.ku...@gmail.com 
> 
> On Tue, Jun 13, 2023, 3:18 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Scary stuff. Frustrating when "professionals" muck things up.
> 
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> From: Todd Williams via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, June 12, 2023 6:40:52 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Todd Williams 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness
>  
> Jon and others,
> 
> Until two years ago, my boat also used to stall in idle when approaching 
> docks. Then, midway across Lake Ontario from Cape Vincent to Sodus on a calm 
> day the fresh water pump/antifreeze circulator seized up. There was melting 
> belt rubber with smoke as the bearings stopped turning. Five days and $56 
> later I had a new antifreeze circulator in place and we haven’t stalled out 
> since. The friction in the bearings were enough to strain the engine into a 
> stall.
> 
> TODD
> 
> On Mon, Jun 12, 2023 at 7:26 PM JP Mail via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> Previous boat
> ‘79 Nicholson 303
> Yanmar 2qm15
> 320 hrs. 
> 
> Starts and runs all day. Slowing while approaching a dock-stalls.
> Change filters, check for loose fuel lines, change crush washers…..
> Approaching a dock….stall. Always while slowing down. 
> Approaching the fuel dock at Dodson’s was told “I’m going there!” By the nice 
> man on his Hinckley.  My response, “Sorry,(engine stalls) I am. 
> The fuel pickup was at the forward end of the cylindrical tank. When I 
> slowed, all the crud would slosh forward and block the pickup causing a 
> stall. 
> Unfortunately the yard cleaned the tank and replaced it. they also 
> inadvertently punctured it and diesel would run out the bottom. Found this 
> out after a day sailing. Back to the yard and a new tank was installed. 
> Unfortunately they inadvertently severed the propane line while cutting a 2” 
> hole in a bulkhead to run a new vent line. It was obscured by the insulation. 
> Found this out when it blew up. With 2 of us onboard. ‘Nother story. I’m sure 
> I told it here at some point. 
> Jon Pratt
> Hideaway 35-3
> Stamford CT
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your 

Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness king of drama

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Lol….  Chuck - Drama Is the stuff of queens not kings!
Dave - Was going to join in but there was already enough help.  I will say 
though that ‘getting intimate’ with the engine is always worthwhile.  There was 
obviously a problem and (imo) it’s worth working through the fuel system to 
make it bulletprooof, and to fully understand it, prior to having the next 
problem.  
Dave 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 10, 2023, at 3:56 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey Dave,
> Thanks for the drama.  It was a fun thread.  You are definitely the "king of 
> drama" based on so many earlier threads.
>  
> Thanks,
> Chuck S
>  
>  
>>> On 06/10/2023 3:47 PM EDT David Knecht via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>>  
>>>  
>>> So the problem has not recurred in several hours of motoring over a few 
>>> days so i am going to write it off as launch day blues. No water in 
>>> separator. Fuel pressure gauge normal.  I cant see that i can do anything 
>>> about it unless it keeps happening. Thanks for the ideas. Dave 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:41 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
>>> wrote: 
>>> 
>>> I once had a similar engine issue.  It would run fine one day (or half) and 
>>> constant stall upon or shortly after restarts.  It turned out that my Racor 
>>> was not full tightened.  Easy fix once found.
>>> 
>>> - 
>>> Paul E.
>>> 1981 C Landfall 38  
>>> S/V Johanna Rose 
>>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>>>  
>>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>>> 
 On Jun 9, 2023, at 11:27 AM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 
 On Fri, Jun 9, 2023 at 7:22 AM David Knecht via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 I am out for the first time this season. Engine started right up. Motored 
 out of harbor for two hours. Turned engine off for a while waiting for 
 wind. Started back up. Ran for 15-30 sec and died. Started up and ran for 
 a bit longer then died. Pulled bed to get access and fuel pressure and 
 level in racor look fine. Started up and ran fine for 40 min. WTF?  Dave
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at: 
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> Thanks for your help. 
>>> Stu
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks for your help. 
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Chainplate bedding

[Dave S via CnC-List]

That’s more or less correct.  I don’t recall how it was secured into the 
aluminum- I’ll be at the boat later today. As far as I could tell the deck 
is solid glass in that area and as far as I remember the bolts were not 
fastened to the plate.   (Though my Memory isn’t what it was.).  Doesn’t 
matter, work at it slowly and thoughtfully and it will reveal itself.  Unless 
it was glued together….  

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 3, 2023, at 3:45 PM, Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Thanks, Dave and Doug. I'll go down to the boat tomorrow, and try wedging 
> and maybe hammering.
> 
> I've added a sketch of how I think this thing works: the rod below is headed 
> over like rod rigging, captured in the cabin fitting, and held to the deck 
> fitting with the 4 bolts. I think all the parts must be SS for this to work 
> (30+ years). Dave, you've seen it all apart, please correct me.
> 
> Unless the round-headed bolts are welded to the deck fitting, I don't get how 
> they resist turning when the nuts are backed off or tightened. 
> 
> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateSketch.jpg
> 
> Adrian Humphreys
> Telamon Technologies, Inc.
> POB 396, Rockport, ME 04856
> 207-763-4691, mobile: 207-542-2312
> adri...@telamontech.com
> 
> 
> 
>> On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:30 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> The design on the 33-2 chainplates is pretty good- actually I haven’t seen 
>> better - imho.  I won’t try to describe it but you remove the bolts, the top 
>> plate (and bottom if you wish) clean both up, (I polished mine, couldn’t 
>> help myself) clean up the deck and rebed  with butyl.  
>> It was done with butyl from the factory, so maintenance is a breeze, and it 
>> should be easy to remove the bolts by tapping from below with a mallet. I do 
>> not believe they are welded to the plate - 99% sure.  
>> You can also separate the deck fitting from the deck by tapping in a thin 
>> wedge a small amount - then wait - then tap again.   Then wait.  I use a 
>> thin, sharp putty knife to start. Then switch sides, then wait.  The 
>> butyl is elastic and comes apart slowly, give it time.  Patience is your 
>> friend.  
>> If more force is require to tap the bolts, reinstall the nuts in reverse but 
>> don’t tighten them.  Tap on the nut not the bolt.  Be careful though- if you 
>> really go to town you’ll learn about cold welding of stainless.  (Shouldn’t 
>> require that in this case). 
>> Good luck.  If no wise guy used 5200 or similar in the past  it should be an 
>> easy job.  
>> Dave 
>> (33-2 with one chainplate re-bedded a few years ago.)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:16 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Looking at your pictures. I think you have corrosion between the bolts and 
>>> the aluminum backing plate. At least I'm guessing the backing plate is 
>>> aluminum. You might try penetrating oil for several days.  Good luck. 
>>> 
>>> Douglas Mountjoy
>>> 1988 LF 39
>>> Mexico at large
>>> 1984 Sabre 34
>>> Port Orchard, WA
>>> 
>>>> On Sat, Jun 3, 2023, 06:43 Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>> I want to re-bed the chainplate covers on my C 33-2.
>>> 
>>> Please help me understand how they are fastened. I have undone the 
>>> cabin-side nuts on the 4 bolts, but they are resisting my efforts to 
>>> withdraw the bolts from the deck-side, where the bolts have round heads. 
>>> 
>>> A socket wrench on the cabin-side nuts unscrewed them easily without 
>>> needing a wrench on the deck-side.
>>> Are the bolts welded to the covers?
>>> 
>>> To lift the cover without damage to cover or boat:
>>>  Do you hammer on the bolts from below?
>>>  Do you lever the covers up from the deck side?
>>> 
>>> Images here:
>>> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateCabin.jpg
>>> 
>>> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateDeck.jpg
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Adrian Humphreys
>>> Epilogue, Rockport ME
>>> C 33-2 
>>> adri...@telamontech.com
>>> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Chainplate bedding

[Dave S via CnC-List]

The design on the 33-2 chainplates is pretty good- actually I haven’t seen 
better - imho.  I won’t try to describe it but you remove the bolts, the top 
plate (and bottom if you wish) clean both up, (I polished mine, couldn’t help 
myself) clean up the deck and rebed  with butyl.  
It was done with butyl from the factory, so maintenance is a breeze, and it 
should be easy to remove the bolts by tapping from below with a mallet. I do 
not believe they are welded to the plate - 99% sure.  
You can also separate the deck fitting from the deck by tapping in a thin wedge 
a small amount - then wait - then tap again.   Then wait.  I use a thin, sharp 
putty knife to start. Then switch sides, then wait.  The butyl is elastic 
and comes apart slowly, give it time.  Patience is your friend.  
If more force is require to tap the bolts, reinstall the nuts in reverse but 
don’t tighten them.  Tap on the nut not the bolt.  Be careful though- if you 
really go to town you’ll learn about cold welding of stainless.  (Shouldn’t 
require that in this case). 
Good luck.  If no wise guy used 5200 or similar in the past  it should be an 
easy job.  
Dave 
(33-2 with one chainplate re-bedded a few years ago.)



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 3, 2023, at 10:16 AM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Looking at your pictures. I think you have corrosion between the bolts and 
> the aluminum backing plate. At least I'm guessing the backing plate is 
> aluminum. You might try penetrating oil for several days.  Good luck. 
> 
> Douglas Mountjoy
> 1988 LF 39
> Mexico at large
> 1984 Sabre 34
> Port Orchard, WA
>
> 
> On Sat, Jun 3, 2023, 06:43 Adrian C Humphreys via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> I want to re-bed the chainplate covers on my C 33-2.
>> 
>> Please help me understand how they are fastened. I have undone the 
>> cabin-side nuts on the 4 bolts, but they are resisting my efforts to 
>> withdraw the bolts from the deck-side, where the bolts have round heads. 
>> 
>> A socket wrench on the cabin-side nuts unscrewed them easily without needing 
>> a wrench on the deck-side.
>> Are the bolts welded to the covers?
>> 
>> To lift the cover without damage to cover or boat:
>>   Do you hammer on the bolts from below?
>>   Do you lever the covers up from the deck side?
>> 
>> Images here:
>> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateCabin.jpg
>> 
>> https://telamontech.com/epilogue/images/chainplateDeck.jpg
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> 
>> Adrian Humphreys
>> Epilogue, Rockport ME
>> C 33-2 
>> adri...@telamontech.com
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: ABYC Propane standards

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Going through this as well.  Your surveyor and insurance company will likely 
recommend a gas detector and a solenoid switch.

Dave 



Sent from my iPhone

> On May 31, 2023, at 1:23 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm swapping out my old CNG 2 burner stove for a propane unit. My question is 
> do I need a fume detector for the new propane  system? I know I need a 
> shutoff valve. 
> 
> Thanks in advance
> Doug
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Underway diesel fix - long read

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Dennis, Andy, thanks for the comments.  I have a very long and growing body of 
info, itemizing projects for the new boat.  

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2023, at 8:30 AM, Dennis C.  wrote:
> 
> 
> Dave,
> 
> Yes, the Racor 500 gasket can be an issue.  A new gasket and o-ring should be 
> supplied with each element.  They should be replaced.  The gasket is square.  
> It can get twisted but usually not.
> 
> The most frequent issue with the Racor 500's is neither the gasket or o-ring 
> but warping of the top.  If the T-handle screw is over-tightened, it can warp 
> the top of the filter, depressing the top into a concave shape.  Then you 
> don't get a good seal and air leakage can result.
> 
> An infrequent issue is chipping of the paint on the top rim of the filter 
> body.  However, the gasket usually will still make for a good seal.
> 
> Overall, the Racor 500MA is, IMHO, a great upgrade to a boat's fuel system.  
> Even better with the T-handle replaced with a vacuum gauge Larger boats may 
> opt for the dual version Racor 75500 Max series.  But $1500 is quite pricey.
> 
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Pe9zcl-E0aQRl-Cu9cW8VqpeLEo9Gek3/view?usp=drive_link
> 
> Again, I keep a small jug of diesel on board just in case I need to top off 
> the filter after an element change.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sun, May 28, 2023 at 6:13 AM Dave S  wrote:
>> 
>> I do wonder about racor filters, and the various other ‘upgrades’.   Racors 
>> seem to be the default upgrade, yet are often cited as a source of 
>> problems/air leaks. You mention the finicky gasket.   Thoughts? 
>> 
>> Dave 
>> 
>> 
> 
> 
> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Underway diesel fix - long read

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Dennis,  nice shade-tree mechanical work!  Knowledge and preparation.   
It’s always interesting to understand the failure modes of things.  I’ve 
intentionally kept my yanmar stock - stock fuel pump, single fuel filter, no 
start relay.   It has had a few small fuel leaks and one electrical issue but 
these have been age/maintenance related.  (Ie - cleaning corrosion from main 
grounds, replacing a tired mechanical fuel pump, o-rings hardening etc.  I’ve 
replaced hoses belts and impeller proactively, keep it spotless, and It’s been 
pretty much bulletproof.  (Northern climate, fresh water)
I do wonder about racor filters, and the various other ‘upgrades’.   Racors 
seem to be the default upgrade, yet are often cited as a source of problems/air 
leaks. You mention the finicky gasket.   Thoughts? 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 27, 2023, at 9:49 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I brought Touche' back from Pensacola to its home slip on Lake Pontchartrain 
> this week.  Overall a nice sail with fair winds and weather.
> 
> Had one glitch.  Here's an excerpt from the trip report I sent some of my 
> sailing buddies.
> 
> Thursday we were motor sailing past Petit Bois Island, Mississippi.  We'd 
> just crossed the Pascagoula Ship Channel.  Touche's engine quit.  Just quit.  
> No slowing down or whatever.  Just died.  WTF?  The engine is a Universal 
> 25XPB with about 2000 hours on it.
> 
> First thing I did was open the cockpit locker and look at the vacuum gauge on 
> the Racor 500MA fuel filter.  It was still in the yellow where it normally 
> runs.  I pulled the top and checked the filter element anyway.  I looked 
> fairly clean.  Next I investigated if the filter might have an air leak and 
> the level had dropped below the discharge.  The filter was only about half 
> full.  I keep a small jug of diesel for topping off the filter if need be.  I 
> topped it off and put the filter element back in.  I inspected the filter lid 
> o-ring and gasket.  The gasket is square and can get twisted. Both looked 
> normal.  Buttoned up the filter and tried to start the engine.  It would 
> barely idle and died.
> 
> The engine has an electric fuel pump.  Okay, next we checked the pump.  I put 
> my finger on the pump.  My buddy turned on the ignition and pressed the 
> preheat button.  Normally an electric fuel pump goes "click, click, 
> click".  Only one click.  Aha!  Dead fuel pump.
> 
> The wind was good and we were still carrying 5 knots or so.  Fortunately, I 
> had a spare fuel pump on board.  I spent about 1.5-2 hours changing it.  
> Before I installed it, I checked it for operation by powering it up.  Yep.  
> It went "click, click, click".
> 
> Got the new pump installed and we're ready to fire it up.  My buddy turns on 
> the ignition and hits the preheat button.  Nothing, zip, nada.  Even the 
> audible alarm was silent.  Big WTF?? He notices that even the engine gauges 
> aren't moving.  Hmmm.  No power to the panel??  He says his Yanmar has a fuse 
> on the engine and he thinks Westerbeke/Universals may have a circuit breaker. 
>  I grab the engine manual, pull up the wiring diagram.  It shows a 20 amp 
> breaker.  Who knew?  But...where the heck is it?  After a bit of searching, I 
> found it on the bracket where the fuel pump and some miscellaneous engine 
> electrical components are.  I reach behind the panel, find the reset button 
> and hear a click when I press it.  Okay.  We try the engine again and it 
> fires right up.  Yay!  Good to go.  
> 
> That lasts about a minute.  It immediately dies again.  Crap!  I start the 
> investigation again.  Open the cockpit locker to look at the vacuum gauge.  
> Oh, what a dumbass!  I'd shut off the fuel valve to change the pump.  I 
> opened the valve.  The engine fired up and away we went.  
> 
> All told, we only lost about an hour on our arrival time and avoided a large 
> tow bill.
> 
> A bit of internet research later revealed that the $256 Westerbeke 39275 fuel 
> pump is really a Facet 40185N.  I found one on eBay for $76.  Same pump.
> 
> This mimics the tachometer/hourmeter replacement from a couple weeks ago.  
> The Westerbeke part was $350.  I found the identical part made by Datcon from 
> a hot rod shop for $150.  When I looked at the old one, it had the Datcon 
> name and part number on it.
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Question and Report

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I think Aluminum is OK for diesel, I would also check industrial or
automotive metal tank fabricators.
I had a custom aluminum fuel tank made for a Lotus Europa years back and it
was easy to source and buy.

Dave




On Tue, 9 May 2023 at 10:42, Bill Coleman via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Here are a few I can think of
>
>
> http://www.moellermarine.com/product-category/fuel-containment/permanent-fuel-tanks/
> https://www.virginiatank.com/ 
> https://www.plastic-mart.com/category/159/marine-holding-tanks
> Bill
>
> On Mon, May 8, 2023 at 11:31 PM Matt Wolford via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Listers:
>>
>>
>>
>> Hope all is well.
>>
>>
>>
>> First, I have a question.  A friend of mine who owns a
>> C 41 (probably ‘80s vintage) discovered that his aluminum diesel tank is
>> leaking.  He plans to pull it tomorrow to confirm.  I talked briefly with
>> Bill Coleman on this list, and he suggested replacing the aluminum tank
>> with a plastic tank.  Does anyone know a source for a plastic replacement
>> diesel tank that will fit this boat?  (I assume it’s about 20 gallons.)
>> Please advise.  Thanks.
>>
>>
>>
>> Second, I thought I’d report on a recent discovery you
>> may find interesting.  As most of you know, my boat is a C 42 Custom,
>> “Custom” meaning that it was not a production run boat and was built in the
>> Bruckmann shop.  Six of these  “stick boats” were built in the mid ‘70s.
>> Every year about this time of year, I get annoyed by a stubborn crack that
>> appears near the top of the forward edge of the keel, near the top where it
>> meets the hull.  As most of you understand, this is the front of the
>> so-called C smile.  On my boat, the C smile crack runs along the bottom
>> of the hull where the keel is mated, more or less parallel to the bottom of
>> the hull (the “main smile”).  However, I have a second C smile that
>> starts at the forward edge of the keel about four of five inches below the
>> forward edge of the main smile, then tapers up toward the bottom of the
>> hull, eventually meeting the main smile about 2/3 of the way back to the
>> aft edge of the keel.  I never understood why I get this “second smile.”
>>
>>
>>
>> A few weeks ago some water was seeping out of the stubborn crack at the
>> front edge of the main smile, and I asked my guru to find out what the heck
>> is going on.  After some grinding and drilling, he informed me that my keel
>> was probably not made to fit my boat.  Instead, the keel from another boat
>> was adapted to fit my boat by creating a lead “wedge” piece (sort of like a
>> big shim) that is widest at the forward edge of the keel and tapers going
>> aft.  This wedge fits between the top of the original keel and the hull,
>> giving me two mating seams and thus two C smiles.  Apparently, my boat is
>> very happy.
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt
>>
>>
>>
>> Matt Wolford
>>
>> C 42 Custom
>>
>> Erie, PA
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Gelcoat match supplier

[Dave S via CnC-List]

https://compositescanada.com/


Dave  

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 6, 2023, at 7:53 PM, Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Good afternoon gentlemen 
> I know this was a subject mentioned in the past
> I looking for a supplier for yellow gelcoat 
> For C 30 1974 mk 1
> -- 
> Joel Delamirande
> 
> www.jdroofing.ca
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bulkhead tabbing 37/40

[Dave S via CnC-List]

In case it helps.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/07/deck-fill-core-removal-and-reinforcement.html?m=1

Dave - 33-2.

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 6, 2023, at 6:34 PM, rockland bazemore via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> In heavy seas we're getting some movement and squeaking of the forward 
> bulkhead against the deck. This happens on the starboard side where there 
> seems to be no tabbing visible looking from within the closet.. On the port 
> side there is tabbing. Are the other 37/40's built this way? I may go ahead 
> and ad fioberglass tabbing there before we make our crossing back to the 
> states. 
> Thanks for any info you all have!
> 
> -- 
> Rockland Bazemore
> S/V Blue Pearl
> C 37/40+
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 33-2 Spinnaker Track on Mast

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Good decision.
Dave



On Tue, 11 Apr 2023 at 13:15, andrew--- via CnC-List 
wrote:

> OK I did the right thing. I abandoned the track, bit the bullet, and
> purchased the original new slider from Holland Marine - thanks Paul for the
> tip. I should be able to return the slider at least.
>
> I just need 2 cheek blocks, 2 jam cleats and a fitting to dead end the
> control line. I’ll post some photos when the whole project is finished.
>
> Thanks again for your help.
>
>
> Andy
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 33-2 Spinnaker Track on Mast

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Andrew, the item  in the pic is very similar to what was installed originally 
(and remains, working well) on my 33-2.  There are other parts also as there is 
a continuous line for controlling it.  (Memory vague - I don’t think much about 
it - it just works).  I tried to photograph it for you yesterday but the mast 
is in a rack and it was hard to get a useful image.  I’ll try again.  

Dave.  33-2 windstar 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 8, 2023, at 3:45 PM, Paul Fountain via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Bottom of this page 
> http://hollandmarine.com/hmp-flipbook-2022/flipbook/index.html?page=312 is 
> what's on my 33-11 I believe.Still asleep for the winter so I can't check 
> yet. Sout shore yachts may have as well.
> 
> Paul
> From: andrew--- via CnC-List 
> Sent: Saturday, April 8, 2023 12:07:21 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
> Cc:
> Subject: Stus-List 33-2 Spinnaker Track on Mast
>  
> Good day everyone!
> 
> Here is a follow up to my thread on getting Tryfan setup for symmetrical…
> 
> https://cnc-list.com/empathy/thread/ZTKX7WZTWTNJOHJJ2QF6BBSIOE6ZBGXE
> 
> First of all - confession - I did something stupid :-(
> 
> I purchased 1.25” T-Track and while mounting I realized I was drilling (and 
> tapping) into plastic cover for slot extrusion on the front of the mast. I 
> did end up putting all 21 screws and will work OK in very light to light air 
> but need to redo the work to make solid.
> 
> I suspect this is the “Z-Spar” mast (did a little research) and that the 
> extruded slot on the front of the mast will accept some sort of car for the 
> inboard end of the pole.
> 
> So as far as I can see my options are as follows:
> 
> Track down a car (and hardware) that will fit in the slot (this would likely 
> need blocks with cleats as well
> 
> Figure out a way to mount the T track with spacers, so I can actually drill / 
> tap into the mast. I read something about an inset, but could only be mounted 
> when the mast is down (don’t want to do that). What about teflon spacers that 
> are the thickness of the depth of the slot that I could slide up from the 
> bottom of the track - 1 for each screw, and just have longer screws?
> 
> Anybody been down this road before have any suggestions?
> 
> Thanks!
> 
> Andy
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bringing lines back to Cockpit.

[Dave S via CnC-List]

One other thing - on my new boat (a cutter with two furlers) the headsail 
halyards have clutches on the  mast and share a mast-mounted self tailing 
winch.   This makes sense on that boat.  Our c were built for racing 
headsail changes, and my 33-2 as an example, has the now only occasionally used 
furling Genoa halyard led aft.  
I frequently sail singlehanded.   When setting the asymmetrical spinnaker (in 
its sock) or changing headsails solo, it would actually be easier to have at 
least a belay point at the mast, possibly even the winch.  (I’ll leave that to 
you to think through fully)  This would free the cabin top of 3 halyards, 
reduce friction etc etc. 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2023, at 7:55 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER  wrote:
> 
> 
> I've crewed on several boats where things were hard to operate due to the 
> friction caused by pour installation and zero maintenance.  Some tips I 
> remember:  layout the clutches so the heavily loaded lines line up with the 
> right side (looking forward) of the winch drum, so the winch has the highest 
> leverage and the line has the least friction.  The main halyard and genoa 
> halyard are the highest loads and it's easy to route one halyard to starboard 
> and the other to port so the highest loads are taken care of.   My Barient 
> winches (manuals on Stu's cncphotoalbum.com) are best oriented so the final 
> driving cog is mated to the outside drum where the line meets the drum. The 
> line then presses the drum against the gear and this helps mesh the gears 
> together in an efficient manor.  You may be able to position the winches 
> close to the companionway so the handles clear the dodger frame.  I used a 
> sheet of thin G-10 and some thickend epoxy to create a flat surface to mount 
> my winches on the curved cabintop.  West Systems has illustrations in their 
> manual which I think is free online.
> 
> Recommend you read the online installation tips from your clutch and winch 
> manufacturers as the distance between clutch and winch are crucial too.  It's 
> all about getting the best performance and longest life from your equipment.  
>  
> 
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R, Annapolis
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>>> On 03/30/2023 3:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Double check the orientation and total operating footprint consumed by the 
>>> line clutches before you proceed, especially if they will live under a 
>>> dodger.  
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> On Mar 30, 2023, at 2:11 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List  
>>> wrote: 
>>> 
>>> I did this on my 35-1 (called Mystic).  I used Garhauer too but this one: 
>>> Deck Organizer 30-DO-QBI | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com).  I chose a 
>>> location about even with the front of the mid-boat hatch and angled them so 
>>> the angle to mast was the same as the angle to the clutch.  Check coach 
>>> roof to make sure there's nothing in the way for where the bolts come 
>>> through the deck.  I ended up with one bolt half on a molded edge.  I have 
>>> the plastics caps for hiding the holes, if you want some.
>>> 
>>> Halyard length needs to be twice deck-to-masthead height + distance back to 
>>> cockpit + about 6 feet.
>>> 
>>> Bob 
>>>> On 03/30/2023 1:52 PM John McCrea via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Hello. In the process of moving all my lines from the mast back to the 
>>>> cockpit and wanted to see what others have done. All old winches and deck 
>>>> gear is off. Also, I am going to replace my jib halyards (main, spin and 
>>>> topping lift were already back to the cockpit on old blocks etc) if anyone 
>>>> has an any measurements for the 36-1 halyards to the cockpit please let me 
>>>> know.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> For the new deck hardware.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I am thinking about using the following:
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Deck Organizer 40-DO-QB | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com)
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Spinlock Mid-Size Boat Deck Organizer | Defender
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> Still looking at clutches, want quads and Spinlock/Lewmar/Garhauer have 
>>>> them.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> Bought two used Lewmar 30 ST for each clutch.
>>>> 
>>>>  
>>>> 
>>>> I am thinking I need to ge

Stus-List Re: Bringing lines back to Cockpit.

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Double check the orientation and total operating footprint consumed by the line 
clutches before you proceed, especially if they will live under a dodger.  



Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 30, 2023, at 2:11 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I did this on my 35-1 (called Mystic).  I used Garhauer too but this one: 
> Deck Organizer 30-DO-QBI | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com).  I chose a location 
> about even with the front of the mid-boat hatch and angled them so the angle 
> to mast was the same as the angle to the clutch.  Check coach roof to make 
> sure there's nothing in the way for where the bolts come through the deck.  I 
> ended up with one bolt half on a molded edge.  I have the plastics caps for 
> hiding the holes, if you want some.
> 
> Halyard length needs to be twice deck-to-masthead height + distance back to 
> cockpit + about 6 feet.
> 
> Bob 
>> On 03/30/2023 1:52 PM John McCrea via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Hello. In the process of moving all my lines from the mast back to the 
>> cockpit and wanted to see what others have done. All old winches and deck 
>> gear is off. Also, I am going to replace my jib halyards (main, spin and 
>> topping lift were already back to the cockpit on old blocks etc) if anyone 
>> has an any measurements for the 36-1 halyards to the cockpit please let me 
>> know.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> For the new deck hardware.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I am thinking about using the following:
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Deck Organizer 40-DO-QB | Garhauer (garhauermarine.com)
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Spinlock Mid-Size Boat Deck Organizer | Defender
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Still looking at clutches, want quads and Spinlock/Lewmar/Garhauer have them.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Bought two used Lewmar 30 ST for each clutch.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> I am thinking I need to get both the deck organizers up near the mast where 
>> the winches used to be and the clutch organizers to make sure that the lines 
>> are not hitting up against the traveler base.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks!
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John McCrea
>> 
>> Talisman
>> 
>> 1979 36-1
>> 
>> Mystic, CT
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks for your help. 
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Fwiw I don’t think the netting would be of much use in protecting an adult.  
Good for sails, 
Maybe pekineses.
I had  custom Jacklines made by a company called cargo trade supply, and I pin 
them through the toerail with carabiners.  In the material handling trade the 
Jackline it’s called a sling, has a certified load rating and costs a fraction 
of the nautical equivalent.  This blog post has pics, including an overly 
clever attachment scheme.   Now I simply push the loop through the toerail, and 
clip a carabiner through the loop.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/quest-for-jacklines.html?m=1

I have good quality tethers and pfds.All pfds have integral harnesses.  
Not sure we could do much more.  

Dave - 33-2 
Windstar 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 28, 2023, at 12:36 PM, Barry McKee via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> A PFD safety harness, tether and jackline might be a better alternative.
>  
> Barry McKee
> Discovery II
> Burlington, ON
>  
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: 28-Mar-23 2:03 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Lifeline safety netting
>  
> I find it very useful to keep dogs, kids, and sails on deck. An adult is much 
> more likely to go over the top.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: David Knecht via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, March 28, 2023 1:46 PM
> To: CnC CnC discussion list 
> Cc: David Knecht 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Lifeline safety netting
>  
> Since I sail often single/double handed, I am thinking about adding lifeline 
> safety netting to my boat.  It seems like it might be useful to prevent 
> rolling off the deck into the water (ie. death).  Never having fallen off a 
> boat, I am not sure if it is really worth it and if there are many scenarios 
> where these might prevent disaster.  Does anyone have experience about the 
> pro/cons of doing this?  Thanks- Dave
>  
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
>  
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: To sell or not to sell

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thomas - 
If you’re happy with the 29 and have invested a lot, keep it and truck it.  
If you intend to sell it, sell it there.  
If your 35-3 doesn’t work out, I will be putting windstar up for sale in a 
month or so.   33-2 in very (extremely) good condition, many upgrades, needs 
nothing.  Freshwater only boat east of Toronto on Lake Ontario.  Sail it home.  

Very complete, transparent documentation here:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2015/12/hello-all-this-blog-is-intended-to.html?m=1

Dave - 33-2  Windstar 




Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 27, 2023, at 4:31 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I'll third that.  Between eastern lake Erie and and western lake Ontario 
> there are more well kept C's that any other area in the world.  I got my 
> Alera from Niagara on the Lake on Lake Ontario, where she was made.  She was 
> on the hard at the Niagara on the Lake Sailing Club and we shipped her to the 
> Pacific Northwest.   I was b;pen away by the yard at the NoL Sailing 
> Club...over 60% of the sailboats there were classic (pre 93) C Not too 
> sure about Lake Erie,, but I suspect there is a healthy population of C 
> there as well.
> 
> I'm sure you can find your next boat there.
> 
> Tom B
> 
> .¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤¤º°`°º¤,¸¸,¤º°`°º¤.
> Tom & Lynn Buscaglia
> SV Alera
> C 37+/40
> Vashon Island WA
> (206) 463-9200
> www.sv-alera.com
> 
> 
> On 3/27/2023 3:19 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:
>> Thomas,
>> 
>> 4k is very cheap for trucking a boat. Does that include hauling demasting, 
>> loading and unloading — and then restepping? 
>> 
>> My advice is that you are probably better off selling down there and shop 
>> for a new boat up north. 
>> 
>> All the best, 
>> 
>> Edd
>> 
>> ———-
>> Edd M. Schillay
>> Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
>> Bayliner 3788 | NCC-1701-C
>> Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
>> ———-
>> 914.774.9767   |Mobile
>> ———-
>> Sent via iPhone 14 Pro
>> iPhone. iTypos. iApologize
>> 
>> 
>> On Mar 27, 2023, at 6:06 PM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Greetings all - 
>> Long-time follower, believe this is my 1st post.  …welcoming all input / 
>> advice from the elders…
>> -sorry in advance for the long post - 
>> 
>> Background: My boat “Therapy” (29 mkII) currently is berthed in Solomons MD. 
>> I moved to Buffalo NY this past fall (the “why” is a long story …planning on 
>> trucking her here this spring (have quotes etc). 
>> Debating about selling her in MD vs the ~$4k moving cost.   I have put 
>> extensive work ($) in her over the past 5 yrs: new electronics w/NMEA 2000 / 
>>  running rigging / interior / exterior cushions / Bimini & dodger / traveler 
>> & main sheet; lifelines,  lights; among other things. 
>> I know most of that doesn’t translate to much add’l value….online ads range 
>> from $teens to low $20s. 
>> My main question..thoughts on the least-bad option:  sell in MD or bear the 
>> cost to truck her to WNY? 
>> I believe she’s worth about $20k…thinking realistically.  
>> Before y’all think I’m throwing out the anchor - there is a very nice 35-Mk 
>> III for sale locally…! 
>> 
>> Cheers ! 
>> Tom 
>> “Therapy”
>> 1984 29-Mk II 
>> Solomons MD 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
>> 
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> -- 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bomar hatch refurb update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks (again) for the kind words Chuck.   I had contemplated buying new, but 
the originals were so well made  I couldn’t imagine throwing them away!   (Plus 
I do enjoy the challenge). The cost was probably in the range of $C500-600 to 
rebuild them and replace the companionway hatch.  So, a substantial saving.  I 
had 6mm plastic on hand for the smaller hatches and only had to buy the 9mm.  
both thicknesses were identical to the originals.  

The project did take longer than it should have due to a couple of clever 
decisions and learning moments.  (Lol)It really isn’t a daunting project 
provided you have a well equipped shop, experience working with acrylic and 
access to a reasonable powder coating shop.  Otherwise it probably makes sense 
to buy new, as you suggest.  
Strangely, the acrylic’s thickness is specified in mm while the sheet size is 
specified in inches. This may be why it can be difficult to find specific 
fractional imperial thicknesses.  This should be easy material to source in any 
well populated area. 

Dave S - 33-2 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 26, 2023, at 2:51 PM, David Swensen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Dave and Chuck,
> Thank you for your replies. I will give Annapolis and hatchmasters a call. I 
> finally found 3/8 cast in 2074 in Californis.  I wanted the 3/8 for the same 
> reason - people stepping on it.  The shipping is half the price of the sheet, 
> so hopefully I can find it on the east coast.
> 
> Thanks again.
> 
> David
> 
>> On Sun, Mar 26, 2023 at 2:30 PM CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
>> wrote:
>> Hey David, 
>> I used a company called Annapolis Maritime Plastics to make new cast acrylic 
>> panels for my windows several years ago.  They are a little pricey but do 
>> quality work and do what the say.   Cost me $1000 to make all my side 
>> windows to template in 1/4" thick 2074.  Limosene dark.  I more recently had 
>> the cabintop slider and window pane made and that cost me $500 for 3/8" 
>> thick 2074.  Thicker because people stand on it.  The company used to have a 
>> large storefront for years but lost people during COVID and was taken over 
>> by a guy who works out of his home workshop. 
>> 
>> I would highly recommend them for their work, but you might find a better 
>> bargain, elsewhere.
>> 
>> https://maritimefabrication.com/
>> 410-263-4424
>> 
>> Dave S does some beautiful work, but considering all the time and money, I'd 
>> buy new hatches and upgrade to one of the newer style, lower profile, 
>> venting models.  New frame, new hardware, new hinges, new lever locks, etc.  
>> But that's just my two cents.
>> 
>> Chuck S
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On 03/26/2023 6:29 AM David Swensen via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Dave, Where did you source your 3/8 acrylic? Is it cast and is it 2074?
>>> Thanks,
>>> David Swensen
>>> Freya 35MK3
>>> Beverly, MA 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:11 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote: 
>>>> 
>>>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1
>>>> 
>>>> Dave - 33-2 
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at: 
>>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>>> Thanks for your help. 
>>>> Stu
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> Thanks for your help. 
>>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bomar hatch refurb update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

David - the colour is 2074,Cast acrylic 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 26, 2023, at 7:25 AM, Dave S  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi David, 
> There are numerous sources in the Toronto area, and for this project I used a 
> place called plasticworld.   
> https://plasticworld.ca/
> 
> I can't recall the colour, but it is the darkest bronze tint regularly 
> stocked locally, and it matches the windows and the companionway slider, and 
> the hatches all now match each other as well.   (I hadn't realized they were 
> different or had faded differently)  I believe it is cast acrylic.  It's easy 
> to purchase in this from industrial suppliers around here, I would expect the 
> same is true in Massachusetts,
> 
> The gaskets came from hatchmasters, in Norwalk CT as recommended by folks on 
> this list.Great service and the product is the right stuff for the 
> application.   Unfortunately they are in the USA ;-) so shipping and 
> importing to Canada was costly.
> https://hatchmasters.com/
> 
> They are a subsidiary of a company called select plastics and I expect would 
> also sell you acrylic.
> 
> Dave
> 33-2 
> 
>> On Sun, 26 Mar 2023 at 06:29, David Swensen via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Dave, Where did you source your 3/8 acrylic? Is it cast and is it 2074?
>> Thanks,
>> David Swensen
>> Freya 35MK3
>> Beverly, MA
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:11 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
>>>> wrote:
>>>> 
>>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1
>>> 
>>> Dave - 33-2
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>> Thanks for your help.
>>> Stu
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Cored hulls and repairs

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Interesting article given recent discussions here.

https://www.practical-sailor.com/boat-maintenance/can-glue-injection-fix-rotten-core?MailingID=1184=WIR20230326-PaintingYourBoatSeries=email_source=ActiveCampaign_medium=email_content=Can+Glue+Injection+Fix+Rotten+Core%3F_campaign=WIR20230326-PaintingYourBoatSeries

Dave 33-2 windstar 

Sent from my iPhonePlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Bomar hatch refurb update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi David,
There are numerous sources in the Toronto area, and for this project I used
a place called plasticworld.
https://plasticworld.ca/

I can't recall the colour, but it is the darkest bronze tint regularly
stocked locally, and it matches the windows and the companionway slider,
and the hatches all now match each other as well.   (I hadn't realized
they were different or had faded differently)  I believe it is cast
acrylic.  It's easy to purchase in this from industrial suppliers around
here, I would expect the same is true in Massachusetts,

The gaskets came from hatchmasters, in Norwalk CT as recommended by folks
on this list.Great service and the product is the right stuff
for the application.   Unfortunately they are in the USA ;-) so shipping
and importing to Canada was costly.
https://hatchmasters.com/

They are a subsidiary of a company called select plastics and I expect
would also sell you acrylic.

Dave
33-2

On Sun, 26 Mar 2023 at 06:29, David Swensen via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Dave, Where did you source your 3/8 acrylic? Is it cast and is it 2074?
> Thanks,
> David Swensen
> Freya 35MK3
> Beverly, MA
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 25, 2023, at 9:11 PM, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1
>
> Dave - 33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Bomar hatch refurb update

[Dave S via CnC-List]

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1

Dave - 33-2

Sent from my iPhonePlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Probably a good call Shawn- if you see dubious mods and substandard work in the 
brokerage listing there is no doubt plenty more yet to find.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 23, 2023, at 5:16 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks, all for the feedback on the LF43. We have decided to pass on the boat 
> recently listed on FB (Tarquin). The decision was based on a combination of 
> price and some unexplained water damage on the starboard side that made me 
> uncomfortable. Additional photos also showed too many owner additions that 
> I'd need to remove or revert, such as a front opening Norcold fridge. Wire 
> nuts used on some of the wiring also didn't help. If the boat was closer to 
> us, it's possible that I could put some of these concerns to rest on my own, 
> but I still feel it is overpriced at 50K compared with two others on YW, and 
> the sellers are confident it will sell. 
> 
> But we came away liking the boat very much, so will keep it on our list as we 
> carry on with our search.
> 
> Thanks again.
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Source for Lower lifeline bushings?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Should clarify - the hole in the stanchion is .437”
(7/16”) diameter, the I.D.  of the original bushing is .309 ish.  It appears to 
be a flanged, ‘top hat’ style.  Heyco  makes one, p/n 2044, which might work, 
but this is definitely not what was supplied originally.  
Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 20, 2023, at 8:03 PM, Dave S via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> I have replaced Windstar's (33-2) lifelines, and need to find replacement 
> bushings.   The originals have n ID of .309, the replacements I've seen are 
> either too large (OD) or too small (ID).   Does anyone have a source for 
> original sized bushings?
> 
> Thx.   Dave 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Source for Lower lifeline bushings?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I have replaced Windstar's (33-2) lifelines, and need to find replacement
bushings.   The originals have n ID of .309, the replacements I've seen are
either too large (OD) or too small (ID).   Does anyone have a source for
original sized bushings?

Thx.   Dave
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Interesting and you’ve obviously thought it through.   Great fun looking and 
pondering.  I do struggle with the ‘80s centre cockpit types, for reasons I 
mentioned,  despite feeling otherwise at one point.  (And really wanting to 
love and buy an amel super maramu before locking in on the OVNI).There are 
whitby 42s around here among others that come up from time to time, they seem 
like real bargains for someone looking at that range/type.  
I was in Kingston once and a c 44 pulled in, single handed by a super nice 
older-than-me guy.  Boat totally equipped for offshore which the owner 
intimated might never happen.   no expense spared, which at first impressed me 
then I thought about why the various compromises may not work very well.
But…. With all that gear removed- breathtaking lines.RIP Rob Ball.  
I was tempted by a landfall 48 at one point, was in the yard here (whitby ON) 
for a long time before it sold.  Deep draft, which around here can be an issue. 
  Seemed like a lot of boat for the money, though of course there’s no such 
thing as a cheap boat.   
Offshore boats are thin on the ground around here and even in Nova Scotia where 
I had a place and where my dad lives.   I actually spent time in Brittany boat 
shopping as a result.  Incredible.   As hockey is to canada, sailing is to 
France.   
Should be no shortage of boats in your neck of the woods though, Happy hunting. 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2023, at 4:44 PM, Shawn Wright  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> Thanks for chiming in, some good points there. I have noticed that 
> relationship between cockpit sole height/boom height and aft cabin space, and 
> it is one thing I dislike about many of the newer C, although I could 
> probably get used to it. I recall spending a few hours in a 37+ and then 
> returning to our 35 and remarking how much more comfortable it was. But the 
> 37+ had an aft cabin. The 41 seems to be a fair tradeoff, with at least one 
> large cockpit locker; the 44 is a no go for me. I'm not sure where the LF43 
> falls, as I haven't seen one yet, and the photos don't give much clue to 
> locker space, but I suspect it is tight. I fit 4 jerry cans in my 35 lockers, 
> along with a big plastic tub with 600' of prawn line, prawn trap, crab trap, 
> etc. and it's still not full. I don't think any of the new boats have lockers 
> like this, so I just have to get used to carrying more junk on deck I guess.
> The LF43 cockpit appears to have gone with a low coaming approach for looks, 
> and has tons of headroom below, so the seat backs are low, and there is poor 
> backrest space everywhere it appears. Can be fixed with some rigid back 
> folding cushions though. One thing I know that I will give up is the ability 
> to singlehand, at least to/from a dock. I just can't see getting any centre 
> cockpit boat onto a dock in any kind of wind or current. That is one big 
> difference between the 43 and say a LF38. But our future is to sail to Mexico 
> and beyond, so day and short trip sailing around the coast like we do now 
> will be much less frequent. We love the feeling of an open-ended cruise, and 
> have done 6 weeks aboard our 35 entirely at anchor a few times, usually with 
> a re-provision stop after 2-3 weeks. The ability to go even longer in a boat 
> like the 43 is very attractive, as is the comfort level of being on passage 
> in a much heavier boat. I love sailing our 35, but in most cases, if the wind 
> is steady and there is sea room, I'm also happy to let the autopilot take 
> over. Our 35 tracks pretty well, but the wheel pilot is only good in moderate 
> conditions. One of the factors influencing the decision is the realisation 
> that although my wife and I have done a 2800M passage on another boat, we're 
> not ready to do one on our own, so the boat we get must have room for crew, 
> both on passage, and at anchor. That means 3 sea berths, and two private 
> cabins. The LF43 works well, the LF38 would be tight, and the 40 without aft 
> cabin, or any earlier C with just a quarter berth, really wouldn't cut it 
> at anchor, although the sea berths are fine.
> 
> It's all about the tradeoffs, and which things you're willing to let go of. 
> Friends sailed south in their Ovni last summer, and are past Mexico now. Once 
> when we sailed with the in our 35, we could point higher and started to catch 
> them, but they were a lot more comfortable in the cold! 
> 
> Even if this particular boat doesn't work out (it's a long shot, since the 
> boat is in Florida and we're in BC, so we'd have to change plans big time), I 
> hope to come out of the experience with a clear indicate of whether the LF43 
> is still on our list of boats or not. Because the list of boats I like is far 
> too long, and those we can afford is far too short
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> 
>> On Sat, Mar 18, 2023 at 12:54 PM 

Stus-List Re: Landfall 43 opinions

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Shawn - Fwiw - I’ll chime in having spent many years going through this, and 
having gotten comfortable with the various trade offs and just closed the 
purchase of my next boat (alubat OVNI 435….) I’ve accepted that Driving the 
OVNI will be more G-Wagen than Lotus… 
IMO Any c is pretty moderate in design (vs a pogo or Colin archer) and is 
performance-biased so it’ll probably ‘sail well’, broadly speaking.  
The rest comes down to how you’ll REALLY be using the boat.  How much time to 
windward, how often consecutive overnight sails, how much loafing in the comfy 
cockpit (go Hunter!) etc.  I hadn’t fully thought it through when boat 
shopping, and I got very lucky choosing windstar (c 33-2) in a lot of ways.   
she can be single handed easily, and she goes to windward really well in all 
conditions, and I’m comfortable sailing in any conditions I’ve encountered 
here.   I didn’t fully appreciate that for ‘out and back’ sailing, I’d be 
spending most of my time on the wind, (and loving it) and I wasn’t thinking 
much about singlehanding.  Her cockpit is …. Tolerable … for entertaining 
and while she ‘sleeps several’ she couldn’t keep them hydrated for long.  She 
has a big tall rig and here in Lake Ontario, that’s great. All this is 
relevant, all good for how and where the boat is used.She’s a great boat 
and I’ll miss the performance for sure.
Otoh My dad advised that when he cruised his steel cutter he rarely sailed to 
windward, only steered when entering harbour or daysailing, and reefed his 
stout, conservative rig at sunset. He really valued the pilot berth, and hated 
not having ice.   He also appreciated the ability to reduce sail and remain 
balanced, and the way she hove to.He told me a 150nm day was decent and 
that he was never too concerned about it.   Not a lot said about light air 
performance, ever,  but the boat was a moderate, modern (then) brewer design 
and no slug - it was a fun, respectable Wednesday night sailor- for what it 
was. 

In my recent search, in noticed a few things not often discussed:
The relationship between cockpit sole height, boom height, dodger height and 
aft accommodation.  Many newer boats have super tall dodgers, (rarely evident 
in brochure photos)  shallow cockpits with no appreciable lockers, and 
condo-like master bedrooms.  This is really evident in boats under say 45’.  
The ability to mount solar panels, stow a dinghy, and the ease of boarding are 
also things worth thinking about.   (People treasure Amels for many good 
reasons, but….. )   In reeeally old boats, where does the propane tank go?  Can 
you reach the Genoa sheets from the helm?  Can you stretch out on the cockpit 
seats?   
Fun stuff.

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 18, 2023, at 2:13 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Kevin and other Landfall 43 owners:
> 
> "Sails well for what it is"... that's what concerns me... not sure I am ready 
> to sail a Hunter-bago! I know it won't accelerate or turn like my 35, but I 
> need to be sailing if there's wind, not motoring, as that would not work for 
> me. 
> So what is the minimum true wind speed you would sail in on a reach, and what 
> boat speed would you get? How much true wind do you need to get moving at 
> 7kts consistently? If you do offshore passages, what is a typical day, and 
> what is your best day range in 24 hrs?
> How does it go upwind, and what is the AWA when closehauled and tuned for 
> best VMG?
> 
> On a different topic, how is the cockpit, and locker storage on deck? The 
> cockpit looks a bit shallow/small, with no good back rests. There appears to 
> be two small aft deck lockers, and one port side aft locker; one of these I 
> assume is propane. How large/deep are the lockers? One of the reasons we 
> didn't like the 44 was minimal locker space on deck, so this is a concern 
> also.
> 
> Thanks!
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
> 
> 
> On Fri, Mar 17, 2023 at 2:14 PM Kevin Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
>> Hi Shawn,
>> We have a 1985 Landfall 43 in Georgian Bay, going into our 3 season. Love 
>> the boat has all the room we need and more and it sails well for what it is. 
>> Haven't had any major issues, like David, our engine was replaced with a 
>> 55hp  Westerbeke and does 7 knots without any problems. The only thing we 
>> wished it had was some sort of sugar scoop to make it easier to get in and 
>> out of the dingy. I'm heading to the boat tomorrow to take some transom 
>> measurements to have a swim platform fabricated to help with that. Let us 
>> know how it turns out!
>> 
>> Kevin Wright
>> Raven
>> 1985 Landfall 43
>> Midland ON
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site 

Stus-List Re: Forward Hatch Handles

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks for the kind words Chuck.  I’m happy with the result.  

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Mar 12, 2023, at 11:32 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Hey Dave, 
> I read through your hatch replacement project and see some beautiful work 
> that you can be very proud of.  
> 
> Chuck S
>> On 03/12/2023 5:51 AM Dave via CnC-List  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> Brian – don’t cut it off!
>> 
>> Is it like this one?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Dave
>> 
>> Windstar, 33-2
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Mail for Windows
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> From: Brian Morrison via CnC-List
>> Sent: March 11, 2023 10:51 PM
>> To: Stus-List
>> Cc: Brian Morrison
>> Subject: Stus-List Forward Hatch Handles
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Hello,
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Does anyone know where I can purchase replacement handles for the forward 
>> v-berth hatch on a 1979 C? I am replacing the hatch but cannot remove 
>> the pin/screw that holds the exterior knob in place on one of them. I think 
>> I may have to cut it off and get a new one.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Brian C. Morrison
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> Thanks for your help.
>> 
>> Stu
>> 
>> 
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: winch mounting project

[Dave S via CnC-List]

David - I sail windstar singlehanded a lot, and don’t have a self tailing halyard winch.  Just use a line clutch.  I raise it by hand, and finish with the winch, tailing it myself.   I have a bank of clutches on either side of the cabin top and these tail halyards, reefing lines, my topping lift, etc.Easy.Dave Windstar 33-2Sent from my iPhoneOn Mar 11, 2023, at 12:51 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  wrote:I would love some feedback on a project since my initial plan went awry and hope others can help me from making any more mistakes.  I keep making small tweaks to make life easier for short-handed sailing.  Since I am usually alone, raising the main is a process.  I raise it most of the way by hand at the mast and have a clam cleat mounted there to hold it in place.  Then I feed the halyard through the blocks and then though the jammer on the coachroof and clamp it.  Then I use the winch to fully hoist and make adjustments.  The problem is that the only winch on the starboard side is a non-self tailing Barient 18.  Using that without someone to tail can be done, but is not easy and must be one handed.  So I had to bright idea this winter to replace the winch with a self-tailing version to make adjustments easier once the sail is raised.  It seemed a relatively straightforward project at the time.  I have periodically had those, and I always assume the next one will be.  I found a used Harken winch in good condition at a reasonable price on Ebay and bought it and took it to the boat.  I presumed I would have to redrill some holes to mount it, but did not realize how limited the space actually was. The new winch is not much larger, but enough to be a problem.  Because the winch is at the back of the coachroof, and behind the shower hatch, the space is very tight and I would not be able to fit all the screws of the new base, not to mention I would have to drill a new set of access points in the shower ceiling panel.So two options:1.  Try to find a comparably sized Barient 21 or 22 ST that has a smaller base (none have the same hole pattern).  I think one would fit, but have not found any used ones yet so those appear hard to find.2.  Create an adapter plate.  My thought was to buy a round aluminum(?) stock plate the size of the new winch base.  Drill a set of countersunk holes matching the existing pattern and tap a set of holes for the new winch.  The plate would be held by the old through bolts.  The new by the tapped holes.  This would raise the winch somewhat depending on the thickness of the plate.  How thick to make it so the threads are sufficiently strong is a worry.  I don’t think the raised angle would be a problem, since genoa winches are much higher than the lead block and work fine.  My temptation is to go with option 2.  Thoughts?  Thanks as always- Dave
S/V Aries1990 C 34+New London, CT


Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:https://www.paypal.me/stumurrayThanks for your help.StuPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Furling Sail C 35 Mk I

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I had a number 2 made by rolly tasker sails, sized between the 1 and 3 I 
already had.  Dimensions here:

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/sail-inventory.html?m=1

I never use the 140 any more, I set the drifter instead.  The #2 is perfect for 
most conditions here in the Toronto area but I do switch to the working jib 
when I know it’s going to blow and sustain 20kts or more.  Sets better than any 
furled sail.  

Dave   33-2ii





Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 28, 2023, at 3:15 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Getting a dacron furling sail.  I have a 155% percent racing sail but often 
> use my 135% furling sail (dacron) with foam luff.  Thoughts from the C 35 
> Mk I/II?   
>  
> The furling sail is also my main headsail for normal cruising (lazy Sundays).
>  
> Glen Eddie
> Legal services provided through J. Glen Eddie Professional Corporation
> Tel: 416-777-5357
> Fax: 1-888-812-2557
> Torkin Manes LLP
> Barristers & Solicitors
> ​This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the named 
> recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, confidential 
> and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you have received this 
> message in error, please notify the sender and delete this email message. 
> Thank you.
>  
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List  
> Sent: February 28, 2023 2:43 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Racing at night
>  
> Not a joke – been doing that for ages now.
> joe
>  
> From: Glen Eddie via CnC-List  
> Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2023 1:41 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Glen Eddie 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Racing at night
>  
> Not sure if Stu is kidding but that is brilliant. 
>  
> Get Outlook for Android
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> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, February 28, 2023 11:53:16 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Racing at night
>  
> I’ll repeat my night racing advice – toss a glowstick in the icebox. This 
> stops people turning on the cabin lights to read the labels on the beer cans 
> and blinding the on-deck crew 
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> 
> Disclaimer
> 
> The information contained in this communication from the sender is 
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Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Stus-List Re: Racing at night

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Lol….  Really great writeup Martin, thanks.

For my fellow mere mortals I’ll chime in to support for the masthead 
light/windex reflector approach.  I discovered it by accident one blustery 
night, works well.  

Dave 33-2 windstar.  


Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 26, 2023, at 5:47 PM, Martin DeYoung via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> “A masthead wind instrument works at night.”
>  
> Absolutely, except when it doesn’t.  During the 1982 Vic-Maui race on a Britt 
> Chance designed 54’ IOR boat in trade winds reinforced by a tropical storm 
> nearby (steady high 20’s, gusts to mid 30’s) the wind instruments were 
> lagging behind the actual apparent wind enough that we needed to improvise.  
> It was the kind of dark wild night that made Mister Toad’s Wild ride seem 
> tame.  We had a reaching spinnaker up (slightly smaller sq area and 
> shoulders) with a full mainsail. AWA of 160 was our target.  Boat speeds were 
> running in the low teens until a good surf then headed into the high teens.
>  
> I was watch captain with two other, experience crew on deck.  We were quickly 
> schooled by the wind gods that relying on the wind instruments resulted in 
> being caught by the lee at the end of a surf. (The apparent wind goes forward 
> while surfing then quickly back to “base line” when the boat slows.)  
> Naturally being caught by the lee in those conditions often resulted in a 
> spin out/round-up/broach, mostly to weather. (Spin pole up, boom in the 
> water.)  The owner would occasionally stick his head up from below 
> complaining about the ride.  I would suggest we were at the top of the 
> spinnaker’s wind range. He would indicate maybe we needed better drivers.)
>  
> On this particular night we resorted to dividing up the information 
> processing tasks.  The helmsman concentrated on the compass using a base line 
> course as a guide.  Another crew concentrated on calling out AWA as shown by 
> the lighted Windex. (Usually something like “5 high” or similar.  When the 
> Windex indicated we were by the lee a noise similar to an aircraft’s stall 
> warning buzzer was used.)  Driving was intense enough we stood ½ hour tricks 
> rotating through the positions.  This technique allowed us to sail fast, 
> diving deep to ride the best waves and limit the spin outs to mostly gentle 
> low impact events.
>  
> Until it doesn’t.  At the end of our watch (+-2AM) the new watch gains the 
> deck and includes the “hired gun” rock star sailmaker helmsman.  The rock 
> star guy total ignored my recommendations on how we got through the last 4 
> hours.  He steps behind the wheel (a very large diameter wheel popular with 
> IOR boats) and starts sailing like he was in charge.  Shortly there after he 
> drives into a leeward broach that lays the boat flat enough that the mast 
> head was hitting the top of waves and most of the deck crew was left hanging 
> by safety harnesses.  I imagine it was exciting down below.  The rock star 
> lost his footing and rotated “ass over tea kettle” into the leeward corner of 
> the cockpit. (Still holding the wheel.)  The mainsail attempted to cross to 
> leeward but was trapped by a line wrapped around a coffee grinder winch 
> handle.
>  
> As I was in the mid/crew cockpit and closest to the line trapping the 
> mainsail I pulled out my trusty sailing knife and cut the line (line was part 
> of a failed preventer).  As soon as my knife blade touched the highly loaded 
> line the mainsail violently crossed to leeward splashing into the water. Now 
> that the boat was freed of the tangled mainsail load it stood up straight 
> (ish), the spinnaker popped full, and the boat took off downwind.  
> Unfortunately the rock star was totally disoriented, the rudder still hard 
> over and the boat went into another broach therefore completing the coveted 
> “banana split”.
>  
> Once we got the boat sorted and back on its feet the owner stuck his head up 
> from down below and said “OK boys we can take the spinnaker down now”.  We 
> spent the next day or so under twin headsails still making speeds in the low 
> teens but under much better control.
>  
> Martin DeYoung
> Calypso
> 1971 C 43
> Port Ludlow/Seattle
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows
>  
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List
> Sent: Sunday, February 26, 2023 12:54 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: dwight veinot
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Racing at night
>  
> A masthead wind instrument works at night. Learn your sail trim vs wind speed 
> and wind angle in the daylight. Should be the same in the dark
>  
> On Sun, Feb 26, 2023 at 1:01 PM David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I just read an interesting article in Practical Sailor on red vs. white 
> lights and night vision.  It reminded me to ask a question of those more 
> experienced about night racing.  I have only done this a few times and found 
> upwind steering at night to be a real challenge.  I normally steer by the 
> genoa telltales.  In light, shifting winds which we inevitably 

Stus-List Re: Boats to avoid; formerly- Boatless again

[Dave S via CnC-List]

This is a Betty/Veronica conversation….for those of a certain age.  (Lol.)

Build Quality aside, This fun discussion is totally dependent on how you wish 
to use the boat.I’m in the process of buying my next boat - an alubat ovni 
- and I’m sure it’ll sail like a barge compared to my c 33ii.   It doesn’t 
have the interior volume, walk through transom, twin helms or owners cabin of a 
modern centre cockpit/aft cabin design, which would necessarily have exposed 
rudders, a huge high dodger and an elevated cockpit sole.  (The latter is a 
pain point for me in newer boats under, say 45’). The design/features 
compromise of the boat I chose do suit my intended use. 
I do think that vintage  is often more relevant that builder - most mass 
production builders’ designs of a given period have a lot in common 
My C$.02.

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 23, 2023, at 7:50 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I'm not sure there is much research that went into this comment.  Most of the 
> boats you listed have been around for decades and some are amazingly designed 
> and of high quality construction. 

>>snip<<
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Stus-List Re: Shower

[Dave S via CnC-List]

The 33-2 has an arrangement like its predecessor- the 34.  I would definitely 
not want a discharge into the keel sump/bilge.  the water travels via the 
spider and finds it’s way elsewhere.  Worth devising another arrangement.
I’m in the process of purchasing an alubat ovni  (Aluminum)  and it sections an 
area of the bilge as a contained shower sump, and has a pump and strainer 
specifically for that.   Like a tub  below the shower grate.   Similar in 
concept to the c which molds the very shallow sump into the liner, but much 
larger and deeper, making the pump-out plumbing easier to do with standard 
parts. 
I would think that the bilge below the shower could be contained similarly in 
most boats.  

Dave 33-2 windstar (for now)

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 16, 2023, at 3:52 AM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Yes.  Dangerous.  I use simple green then tteat wood with Watco wood oil.  
> My boat is in Ketchikan, AK.  Very damp.  I keep a dehumidifier running all 
> year.  It works well to keep away mold.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2023 8:54:09 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Shower
>  
> True, but it's all in concentration. Too much and yes, you will eat through 
> your keelbolts. Just a tiny bit, and you will kill the nasty stuff that grows 
> in there. I once put a chlorine pellet in one of my strainers, and it it ate 
> Holes through the stainless steel strainer . Having said all that, when I 
> first got my 39, I decided to get all of the mildew out of it and took 
> everything out of the boat, nice mixture of Tide, chlorine and ammonia, 
> sprayed it all around, power washed it, rinsed it and sucked it out. If a 
> little bit of cleaner is good, a lot is better right,? I'm lucky to be alive. 
> Little did I know then that ammonia and chlorine creates mustard gas! Live 
> and learn!
> 
> Bill Coleman
> 
> On Wed, Feb 15, 2023, 21:58 Matt Wolford via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> My friend Bill Coleman on this list cautioned me against using Clorox in the 
> bilge for fear of damaging the stainless keel bolts.
> 
>  
> 
> From: dwight veinot via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2023 7:29 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: dwight veinot 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Shower
> 
>  
> 
> Add some anti bacterial detergent to the bilge and maybe a cup of 
> chlorox/javex once in a while
> 
>  
> 
> On Wed, Feb 15, 2023 at 7:01 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Ive found it useful in removing oils.
> 
>  
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
> From: Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:51:33 PM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: wolf...@erie.net 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Shower
> 
>  
> 
> Probably the reason for a separate pump and discharge that by-passes the 
> bilge.
> 
>  
> 
> From: David Risch via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:46 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: David Risch 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Shower
> 
>  
> 
> I have heard discharging shower grey water into bilge created a soapy/scummy 
> mess in the bilge?
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2023 2:11 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Robert Abbott 
> Subject: Stus-List Shower
> 
>  
> 
> My 32 has the same set up...shower hose from the sink facet...sump with a 
> teak gratesump pump under the sink for a separate discharge just below 
> the toe rail opposite the head starboard side.
> 
> All woks fine but never use it.
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2023-02-15 1:59 p.m., Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
> 
> That was the set-up on the 42 Custom.  A shower hose was integral to the sink 
> faucet.  On my boat, the shower head was attached to a wall rack for 
> adjusting the height.  The floor is a teak grate with a very thin plastic 
> catch pan underneath.  The pan drained to a “sump” pump with a separate 
> discharge.  I removed everything but the drain pan, which now has a hose to 
> drain to the bilge.  I’m in the process of installing a shower on deck for 
> use after swimming.
> 
>  
> 
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, February 15, 2023 12:38 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Shower drain
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
> --
> 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your 

Stus-List Re: Replacing cabin windows

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Here’s an unfinished blog post 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/09/totally-crazed-portlights-and.html?m=1

Dave - 33-2 Windstar 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 9, 2023, at 4:05 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That's not a bad price.  I paid $1000 US for just the acrylic panels.  
> 
> Chuck S
>>> On 02/09/2023 12:26 PM Dean McNeill via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> I got a quote from "Fix Leaky Boats” on replacing windows and frames (fixed 
>>> / non-opening) on my 1980 34' two years ago and it was about $2,000 
>>> Canadian. I didn’t proceed but that might give you an idea of pricing. I’ve 
>>> heard great things about their products.
>>> 
>>> Dean
>>> 
>>> On Feb 9, 2023, at 11:46 AM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Hey Joel, 
>>> "Fixleakyboats.com" looks interesting.  Any idea what they cost? 
>>> Their website doesn't seem to be working.  It wouldn't allow me to fill out 
>>> their form.
>>> 
>>> Chuck Scheaffer
 On 02/09/2023 10:15 AM Joel Delamirande via CnC-List 
  wrote:
 
 
 also www.fixleakyboats.com 
 does windows and frames
 
 On Thu, Feb 9, 2023 at 9:12 AM Jeff Nelson via CnC-List 
  wrote: 
 Of course no sooner sent off but I found the one I was thinking of: 
 https://www.thecoastalpassage.com/windows.html 
 Cheers,
   Jeff Nelson
   Muir Caileag
   C 30 - 549
   Armdale Y.C.
> On 2023-02-09 10:02, Jeff Nelson via CnC-List wrote: 
> Here is a link from my archivesI thought I had a more descriptive one 
> with pictures, but can't find it: 
> Sail article: 
> https://www.sailmagazine.com/diy/replacing-fixed-portlights 
> link for VHB tape: 
> https://nhsmedia.com/vhbtape.htm 
> 
> 
> Cheers,
>   Jeff Nelson
>   Muir Caileag
>   C 30 - 549
>   Armdale Y.C.
>> On 2023-02-09 06:00, StrightR--- via CnC-List wrote: 
>> A couple of years ago there was an excellent thread on replacing cabin 
>> windows using acrylic, 3M ultra high bond tape and black silicone 
>> sealant.  Anyone happen to have a copy of that?
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> Thanks
>> 
>> Rod
>> 
>> 
 
 Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
 help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at: 
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 Thanks for your help. 
 Stu
 
 
 -- 
 Joel Delamirande
 
 www.jdroofing.ca 
 
 Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
 help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
 Thanks for your help. 
 Stu
>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at: 
>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>>> Thanks for your help. 
>>> Stu
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: 
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray 
>> Thanks for your help. 
>> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: East coast boat yards?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi Danny - aluminum centreboard cutter - Garcia, allures, alubat or similar.
Love my C but this is a whole  ‘nother thing!
Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 5, 2023, at 6:34 AM, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Dave, 
> what kind of boat are you looking to purchase? 
> Danny
> 
> On Jan 5, 2023 5:40 AM, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> Thanks Andrew and all others who responded with excellent info.   Just walked 
> away from one potential purchase, but there are many others out there...   
> Will be reaching directly out once I pull the trigger.
> 
> Many thanks again!
> 
> Dave 33-2
> 
> 
> On Mon, 2 Jan 2023 at 19:26, Andrew Burton via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I’m keen on Dickerson Harbor on the Eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay. My 
> boat lives there in the winter. 8’ draft so I have to wait for a very high 
> tide to get in and out. Nice competent people and you can work on your boat 
> yourself. 
> Lovely anchorages around there, too. 
> Andy
> 
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI 
> USA 02840
> 
> +401 965 5260
> https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
> 
> 
> 
> On Jan 2, 2023, at 17:16, Dave S via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> Contemplating my next boat and have realized that sailing is best enjoyed in 
> a place that isn’t frozen.  Am looking to purchase a boat - likely in the 
> Caribbean, with the intention of cruising farther afield in 2-3 years.  The 
> border services (taxation)  folks in my beautiful native Canada are most 
> willing to share in the adventure by charging an exorbitant stack o’taxes and 
> duties should said boat arrive for importation in Canada to enjoy a 4 month 
> sailing season or two.   As a Canadian citizen I cannot not import it, not 
> easily anyway. 
> So - we go away and we stay away, and we refit in the USA.
> Can anyone recommend a yard in the south east that is reasonable and decent 
> to deal with?  I have been told that if Florida then north of Jupiter.  
> Anyone have any other thoughts or experience on the subject?
> 
> Many thanks all.  
> 
> Dave 33-2
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: East coast boat yards?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Andrew and all others who responded with excellent info.   Just
walked away from one potential purchase, but there are many others out
there...   Will be reaching directly out once I pull the trigger.

Many thanks again!

Dave 33-2


On Mon, 2 Jan 2023 at 19:26, Andrew Burton via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> I’m keen on Dickerson Harbor on the Eastern shore of the Chesapeake Bay.
> My boat lives there in the winter. 8’ draft so I have to wait for a very
> high tide to get in and out. Nice competent people and you can work on your
> boat yourself.
> Lovely anchorages around there, too.
> Andy
>
> Andrew Burton
> 26 Beacon Hill
> Newport, RI
> USA 02840
>
> +401 965 5260
> https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/
>
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2023, at 17:16, Dave S via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
> Contemplating my next boat and have realized that sailing is best
> enjoyed in a place that isn’t frozen.  Am looking to purchase a boat -
> likely in the Caribbean, with the intention of cruising farther afield in
> 2-3 years.  The border services (taxation)  folks in my beautiful native
> Canada are most willing to share in the adventure by charging an exorbitant
> stack o’taxes and duties should said boat arrive for importation in Canada
> to enjoy a 4 month sailing season or two.   As a Canadian citizen I cannot
> not import it, not easily anyway.
> So - we go away and we stay away, and we refit in the USA.
> Can anyone recommend a yard in the south east that is reasonable and
> decent to deal with?  I have been told that if Florida then north of
> Jupiter.
> Anyone have any other thoughts or experience on the subject?
>
> Many thanks all.
>
> Dave 33-2
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
>
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and
> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: 1979 36-1 Cockpit Flexing

[Dave S via CnC-List]

My 33-2 is stiff and solid, I would be surprised if a similarly-built boat 
would bounce.   Dennis suggest a few excellent approaches to repair however I 
would suggest first checking how it was built at the factory, and what might 
have failed.   Any deck I’ve worked on had some sort of flat core (balsa or  
plywood typically) sandwiched between the deck and an inner skin. When the 
sandwich delaminates the stiffness is lost.I’ve been on some really bouncy 
decks that lasted that way for years.  (It would drive me nuts…)
If it’s the cockpit sole I’d expect that water may have entered around the base 
of the steering pedestal.  Is it stiffly mounted or does it move?
If you add a stringer to back up a delaminated sandwich you may not really 
address the issue or the flex.  
The challenge is likely access to the back side, the rebuild work itself isn’t 
that difficult. 
Dave 33-2 windstar.


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 3, 2023, at 4:15 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> John,
> 
> I have not experienced what you describe.  However, I have strengthened hull 
> sections before. 
> 
> I had a job to strengthen the aft hull section of a Wavelength 24 once.  The 
> aft underbodies of these boats have a large unsupported area directly under 
> the cockpit.  At speed, the hull tends to deform in a slightly concave way.  
> I installed 3-4 stringers on the inside of the hull to stiffen that area.  I 
> used preformed foam stringers that I laid a few layers of epoxy glass over.  
> 
> 
> 
> I also repaired some stringers on the inside of the hull of a NACRA 
> catamaran.  In this case, the stringers were cardboard tubes cut lengthwise 
> and glassed over.  
> 
> Two similar jobs.  A foam or cardboard shape simply glassed over.  Perhaps 
> you could do something similar.  If you are tempted to DIY foam stringers, 
> not all foam is epoxy resistant.  Use the wrong stuff and you'll end up with 
> a puddle instead of a structural member. 
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Tue, Jan 3, 2023 at 11:58 AM John McCrea via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> All,
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> On the port side of my cockpit, I get a decent amount of flexing when I walk 
>> on it. In the area between the bilge locker and propane locker. I borrowed a 
>> moisture meter from a surveyor friend, and it is dry. Also, no crazing or 
>> anything of that nature. I am wondering if I have some delamination on 
>> either side and will tap with a hammer to see if that is the case. Was also 
>> thinking that maybe by adding a glassed in stringer underneath the cockpit 
>> that it might help provide some strength. Anyone have a similar issue in the 
>> past? Thanks, and Happy 2023.
>> 
>>  
>> 
>> John McCrea
>> 
>> Talisman
>> 
>> 1979 36-1
>> 
>> Mystic, CT
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 
> 
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List East coast boat yards?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Contemplating my next boat and have realized that sailing is best enjoyed in a 
place that isn’t frozen.  Am looking to purchase a boat - likely in the 
Caribbean, with the intention of cruising farther afield in 2-3 years.  The 
border services (taxation)  folks in my beautiful native Canada are most 
willing to share in the adventure by charging an exorbitant stack o’taxes and 
duties should said boat arrive for importation in Canada to enjoy a 4 month 
sailing season or two.   As a Canadian citizen I cannot not import it, not 
easily anyway. 
So - we go away and we stay away, and we refit in the USA.
Can anyone recommend a yard in the south east that is reasonable and decent to 
deal with?  I have been told that if Florida then north of Jupiter.  
Anyone have any other thoughts or experience on the subject?

Many thanks all.  

Dave 33-2



Sent from my iPhone
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Battery question

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Also- this is a very good time to confirm that things are fused correctly.   
That would be one heck of a short circuit….
Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 29, 2022, at 10:07 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> The batteries need to be all the same type, you can’t mix different 
> chemistries.
>  
> From: Doug via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2022 9:20 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Doug 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Battery question
>  
> That was my thought, but I wanted to make sure I wasn't missing something. 
>  
>  
>  
> Doug Mountjoy 
> sv Rebecca Leah 
> C & C Landfall 39
> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
> +1 253-208-1412 WhatsApp
> +52 669-267-4740 phone
>  
>  
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Re: Encapsulating keel

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I’m not sure I’d encapsulate the keel….  A lot of work and  In the event of a 
grounding the glasswork could be damaged and would admit water and this would 
eventually create a mess.  I view the metal bolt-on keel as an advantage in 
this regard.  
My first boat was a steel-plate swing keeled trailerable I bought (trashed) 
from a bankruptcy auction.  it’s glassed-over 700lb steel plate keel had lived 
hard and been badly repaired more than once.   I removed and repaired, 
re-skinned and faired it, whacked it once myself, repaired it in-situ again and 
it was fine for the duration.  Later versions of this boat had a shaped 
cast-iron swing keel which was a much better idea.  
On windstar (the 33-2 has a deep high aspect fin) I very carefully rebedded and 
torqued the keel then skimmed the joint with a grinder and applied a 6“ wide 
band of thin glass cloth/epoxy and faired that.  The keel and bilge stub look 
like a single unit.  To my surprise it has lasted for 6 years or so without any 
sign of trouble.  
Ymmv

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 20, 2022, at 12:42 AM, Dreuge via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Doug,
> 
> The keel on my LF38 was encapsulated by a previous owner.  I do not know the 
> detail of how it was done, but it appears the it was fiberglass wrapped with 
> epoxy but was then faired with polyester fairing.   I know this because when 
> I first hauled her out, the keel was loaded with blisters whereas the rest of 
> the hull had none.  The blisters were only in the fairing.  I assumed that 
> polyester fairing was used to make it easier to sand the fairing.   It was a 
> bad idea, so don’t let anyone try to convince you to fair with a polyester 
> fairing.  I ended up grounding off all of the fairing and I found the 
> underlying epoxied fiberglass in rock solid shape.  I then redid the fairing 
> using epoxy mixed with 50-50 colloidal silica & 3M glass spheres. And easily 
> sanded it smooth with an orbital sander.  It has been over 8 years and is 
> still in perfect shape.   That said, having owned another C previously, and 
> experienced the smile, I do check the keel bolts out of habit but have had no 
> issues.  
> 
> The keel does have a large bolt head sticking out of it.  It is basically 
> right in the center on one side. It looks like someone drilled a hole and 
> threaded the bolt in.  I left it in place assuming that it was possibly done 
> for a lightning ground.   To be clear, this is not a garboard drain.   
> 
> I have a write up on my blog about this:  
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/p/projects.html   Go to "Bottom and Hull 
> Work”->”Barrier Coat and Bottom Painting”. 
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>> On Dec 19, 2022, at 12:41 PM, Doug via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> I have a question for everyone here. Here in mexico where labor is cheap and 
>> craftsmanship is good. I'm wondering about fully encapsulating my keel. The 
>> thought behind this would be to eliminate the worry of my keel bolts. I can 
>> see (access) a total of 2. There is one under the mast and who knows how 
>> many below the engine down about 3 feet. 
>> Just a thought as I don't show any signs of a loose keel yet. 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Doug Mountjoy 
>> sv Rebecca Leah 
>> C & C Landfall 39
>> Port Orchard Yacht Club 
>> +1 253-208-1412 
>> 
>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and 
>> help me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> Thanks for your help.
>> Stu
> 
> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
> me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Stu
Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
me pay the associated bills.  Make a contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.
Stu

Stus-List Insurance on boat in abc islands or Grenada ?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hi all, looking to purchase my next boat and am wondering if someone can 
recommend an insurer?   I am in Canada, the boat would be either on the hard or 
a mooring in a warm place…. 
Thanks!

Dave 33-2 windstar 

Sent from my iPhone
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contribution at:
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Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: Fuel cap

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Here you go:

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/search?q=RC=1

Dave, 33-2 Windstar 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 21, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Alan,
> 
> Sorry for the 10 year old thread response here. I have the same 
> question—Replacement caps for RC deck fitting. Did you ever find a source?
> 
> Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
> contribution at:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> Thanks for your help.
> Dave
Don't forget to show your appreciation and help pay the bills.  Make a 
contribution at:
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
Thanks for your help.

Stus-List Re: charger/inverter

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Pete - when I researched this there were very few that had a lithium-specific 
output, however the AGM charge profile was recommended.  (Lithium specific may 
not be necessary) 
This was useful because I could use my existing charger, which offers 3 charge 
profiles, but cannot simultaneously charge multiple types - you can’t mix.   I 
was planning a lithium house bank and an agm start battery.  
I had decided an inverter/charger was not in scope because I did not wish to 
support higher wattage AC appliances, and also because the chargers and typical 
associated infrastructure were expensive and overkill for my needs. (It 
logically ends up being sized as a system, and my boat is relatively small - a 
33 mark ii.) 
There are those who will insist that a lithium bank warrants a high-current 
charger since the lithium bank can charge at a faster rate, suggesting that you 
don’t get the full benefit of the lithium bank otherwise.   This is a spendy 
slope and imho flawed logic - my car is capable of very high speeds, however I 
don’t drive at 200km/hr to justify the purchase.  I don’t need or want to. 
If you need to charge extra fast at a quick marina pit-stop then that’s 
different.   
All This to say that as I noodled a similar upgrade I came around to sticking 
with my old xantrex charger - I think it will do three banks at 20a each. The 
whole system works better than I could have hoped and I never looked back. 
Dave 33-2 

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2020/09/4-chargers-controllers-and-monitoring.html?m=1

 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 18, 2022, at 10:38 AM, pete.shelquist--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> I am looking to update my shore power charger and considering 
> charger/inverter with lithium batt capabilities. 
>  
> There are lots of manufacturers out there.  Can anyone provide reliable 
> resources to review or recommendations?
>  
> Thanks,

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Brass-headed mallet.  Forgot that….

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 10, 2022, at 8:32 AM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Depending on how you use your boat, there may be a difference between what 
> you have onboard and what you have in your dock box (or car).
>  
> Following up on what Bill added, I have two or three of those grabby things 
> in different lengths (sometimes 3 feet doesn’t reach).  It’s helpful to have 
> the kind with a light at the end.  Re: the hammer, I have one of those 
> orange, plastic coated mallets on board that comes in handy a lot.
>  
> Although not really a “tool,” Shawn noted that he has a dinghy battery for 
> starting if necessary.  Based on Bill’s advice a few years ago, I keep a 
> 3000-amp NOCO boost jump starter on board.  I haven’t needed it to start the 
> boat, but I’ve used it for other purposes and lent it to several friends to 
> start boats and cars.  I keep it in my car in the winter.
>  
> Matt
> C 42 Custom
>  
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2022 4:36 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat
>  
> Wow Shawn,, someone who probably has more tools on their boat than me!
> A couple others I find useful, are the little 3 foot cable thingies that you 
> depress the end with your thumb, and the other end picks up the screw you 
> dropped in the bilge -
> I also have two sizes of hemostats, regular and pointy end vice grips, and a 
> rawhide hammer, and a 2# Copper Hammer. No steel hammer.
> And of course, a forehead mounted miners light.
> One more thing I have to mention is lithium batteries. I have ruined more 
> lights and instruments by using alkaline batteries, that I just took them off 
> the boat.  I used to think I would remember to remove the batteries from 
> these in the fall, and come back in the spring to find them all corroded.
> There, I'll stop now.
>  
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
>  
> On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 1:57 PM Shawn Wright via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I carry a lot of tools, but did cull some of them after the first season, as 
> many were duplicates which came with the boat but were of inferior quality, 
> or were badly corroded.
>  
> I have a large plastic toolbox with: complete screwdriver set (plus a good 
> multi tip driver), (3 each of standard, philips and roberston, plus roberston 
> #0 for small trim screws). Complete wrench set both metric and SAE in a wrap. 
> A wrap of custom made wrenches for the boat, made for hard to access bits on 
> the engine, supplied by PO. Needle nose pliers, channel locks, side cutters, 
> crescent wrenches. Several metal files, hacksaw with spare metal cutting 
> blades. Set of allen keys. Small hammer. Tap and die set with common sizes 
> (full set I leave at home). 
>  
> In addition, I have a decent sized ratchet set in a case with 1/4, 3/8 and 
> 1/2" drive sockets both metric and SAE up to 22mm, along with torx and hex 
> sockets.
>  
> I also have 3 plastic bins with electrical tools (meter, soldering iron, 
> crimpers, etc), connectors and wire, although could probably cull down to 
> one, but I always seem to have several minor electrical mods on the todo 
> list. I would rate this category *very* highly, as it takes very little 
> space, but can make the difference when something electrical goes wrong. 
>  
> I also have a set of 18V tools (circular saw, recip saw, drill, hammer drill, 
> flashlight) that I use for projects, but keep only the drill and light aboard 
> when sailing. Good set of drill bits as well.
>  
> Spare parts for nearly everything: starter, alternator, engine belts, water 
> pump, impellers, glow plugs, engine coolant premixed, zincs for engine and 
> shaft, macerator pump, water pressure pump. Large assortment of SS fasteners, 
> shackles, etc. 
>  
> We have an electric dinghy motor which charges off solar, and the battery is 
> capable of starting the main engine in the event of total battery failure. So 
> far, I've only had to use it to jump start the car after leaving it for 
> several months... :)
>  
> Depends on where you sail, but we are often out 4-6 weeks at a time in fairly 
> remote areas, so being self-sufficient is important.
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>  
>  
> On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 10:34 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first boat 
> and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I wonder if 
> anyone ever put together a list of hand tools to be kept on the boat that I 
> could share with him.
>  
> I also need to remove some unnecessary tools as the bag has gotten heavier 
> over time.
>  
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck S

Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat

[Dave S via CnC-List]

100%  On the hand drill.
Good quality wrenches, sockets, screwdrivers, Allen keys
Volt ohmmeter
Strong magnet
Silicone guideline tape
Small pry bar (alternator belt tensioning)
Cable ties
Tons of fasteners, hardware bits,  other tapes, 5 minute epoxy in syringe.

Small vise grips with cutter, slip joint pliers,  multi bit screwdriver, tape 
measure in chart table drawer.  Use  those a lot.  

Dave 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 9, 2022, at 4:36 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> If you want to be self-sufficient, a hand drill is good to have
>  
> Marek
>  
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2022 2:45 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat
>  
> Basics:
> Tapes- Silicone repair, electrical/rigging and duct.
> For screwdrivers a Klein 11 in 1 and 4:1 stubby, #3 phillips and large flat 
> blade
> Channel locks, adjustable wrenches and box wrenches, SAE and metric, allen 
> wrenches SAE nd metric
> Crimpers Strippers
> Battery powered multi tool and drill, dremel
> Strap wrench
> sockets, SAE and metric
> and David's coat hanger!
>  
> Joel
>  
> On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 2:34 PM David Risch via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> Do  not forget the most important one…
>  
> Wire Coat Hanger
>  
> From: Shawn Wright via CnC-List  
> Sent: Wednesday, November 9, 2022 1:57 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Shawn Wright 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Minimum list of Tools to be kept onboard a boat
>  
> I carry a lot of tools, but did cull some of them after the first season, as 
> many were duplicates which came with the boat but were of inferior quality, 
> or were badly corroded.
>  
> I have a large plastic toolbox with: complete screwdriver set (plus a good 
> multi tip driver), (3 each of standard, philips and roberston, plus roberston 
> #0 for small trim screws). Complete wrench set both metric and SAE in a wrap. 
> A wrap of custom made wrenches for the boat, made for hard to access bits on 
> the engine, supplied by PO. Needle nose pliers, channel locks, side cutters, 
> crescent wrenches. Several metal files, hacksaw with spare metal cutting 
> blades. Set of allen keys. Small hammer. Tap and die set with common sizes 
> (full set I leave at home). 
>  
> In addition, I have a decent sized ratchet set in a case with 1/4, 3/8 and 
> 1/2" drive sockets both metric and SAE up to 22mm, along with torx and hex 
> sockets.
>  
> I also have 3 plastic bins with electrical tools (meter, soldering iron, 
> crimpers, etc), connectors and wire, although could probably cull down to 
> one, but I always seem to have several minor electrical mods on the todo 
> list. I would rate this category *very* highly, as it takes very little 
> space, but can make the difference when something electrical goes wrong. 
>  
> I also have a set of 18V tools (circular saw, recip saw, drill, hammer drill, 
> flashlight) that I use for projects, but keep only the drill and light aboard 
> when sailing. Good set of drill bits as well.
>  
> Spare parts for nearly everything: starter, alternator, engine belts, water 
> pump, impellers, glow plugs, engine coolant premixed, zincs for engine and 
> shaft, macerator pump, water pressure pump. Large assortment of SS fasteners, 
> shackles, etc. 
>  
> We have an electric dinghy motor which charges off solar, and the battery is 
> capable of starting the main engine in the event of total battery failure. So 
> far, I've only had to use it to jump start the car after leaving it for 
> several months... :)
>  
> Depends on where you sail, but we are often out 4-6 weeks at a time in fairly 
> remote areas, so being self-sufficient is important.
> 
> --
> Shawn Wright
> shawngwri...@gmail.com
> S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
> https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto
>  
>  
> On Wed, Nov 9, 2022 at 10:34 AM CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> I've been helping a friend get his sailboat together and it's his first boat 
> and he never has the right handtools, so I bring my own toolbag.  I wonder if 
> anyone ever put together a list of hand tools to be kept on the boat that I 
> could share with him.
>  
> I also need to remove some unnecessary tools as the bag has gotten heavier 
> over time.
>  
> Thanks in advance,
> Chuck S
> 
>  
> --
> Joel

Stus-List Re: 3M 4200

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Breaking the seal…..
Possibly the insertion of a putty knife(s) and the thoughtful application of 
heat would slowly break the seal.  Thankfully mine were bedded in butyl.
Hatch rebuild currently underway:

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html?m=1

Dave - 33-2 windstar.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 7, 2022, at 10:28 AM, rjcasciato--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> John, I agree with Bill…….someone knows how to get that lid off.  You are not 
> going to like the cost of replacement. Hatchmasters in Norwich CT rebuilt 
> mine 12 years ago and that worked for a time, but this past year, the hinge 
> casting simply broke off and I replaced both cabin and forward hatches.  We 
> didn’t find any standard sizes that would fit so my shop measured in detail 
> and we had Bomar make them both.  The foredeck one was originally a Bomar but 
> the cabin roof one was an Atkins and Hoyle. 
>  
> The end result is that they fit perfectly and look great.  The price, 
> however, was over $10K……..so if possible, talk to Hatchmasters and see if 
> they can advise you on how to remove that lid.  
>  
> Or search the salvage market here in Floridasome other 34 is certainly 
> available for parting out.
>  
> Good luck,
> Ron C.
> Impromptu
> C 38MKIIC…..’77
>  
> From: John Read via CnC-List  
> Sent: Monday, November 7, 2022 9:33 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: John Read 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>  
> Stainless rod is welded to frame by years of corrosion.  Tried to remove heat 
> etc  no luck
>  
> John Read
>  
> From: Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> Sent: Monday, November 07, 2022 8:55 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Bill Coleman 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: 3M 4200
>  
> My first thought is, why do you have to remove the hatch frame itself? If 
> it's attached that well, can't you just leave it there and remove the lid and 
> have a new lens put in, and put new gasket in?
> 
> Bill Coleman
>  
> On Mon, Nov 7, 2022, 07:58 John Read via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> After 40 years, it is time to rebuild my forward main hatch.  Issue is it is 
> bedded to hull with 3M 4200.  Any suggestions on how to break that seal?
>  
> John Read
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
>  

Stus-List Hatch rebuild - removing silicone?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Good evening all,
Have my Bomar hatches disassembled and have found an anodizing shop to
refinish the cast aluminum frames.   For the anodizing to be perfect,  the
silicone must be completely stripped from the frame.   This is proving to
be a bit of a hassle.
Does anyone know the magic or magic solvent that will dissolve this
lovely/unlovely stuff?
Thanks, Dave
33-2 windstar

Stus-List Re: Start panel mystery

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Ahhh. The old slant 6 trick….Dave - clean all your grounds and clean and tighten all connections.  The bouncing meter is a clue to an intermittent or loose connection.  It can also be a switch oxidizing or otherwise failing.    I assume you are measuring your voltage with reference to a local ground.  (Meaning near the switch).  Measure that but also measure with the meter connected to the battery ground (-) terminal directly.   If the values differ you know you have a bad (high resistance) ground.   You can also verify this by measuring the resistance between those points.  Mine had little  problems due to loose contacts in switches, poor diy terminations, and a big problem most importantly, due to an oxidized lug connecting the entire control harness to the engine.   It has been bulletproof since I worked on it - cleaning, tightening, protecting with dielectric grease and re-doing the prior owners substandard work.I assume you are working with a schematic, stepwise through each circuit. Dave Sent from my iPhoneOn Oct 25, 2022, at 9:11 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List  wrote:

  
   
 
  
   You need a  better meter that registers volts in tenths or hundreths of volts.  Sounds like the batteries are OK.  Eventually you will find a bad connection between the battery and the switch and the starter.  Best to eliminate those control wire harness quick connects and wire the red lead straight from the battery to the control panel and then back to the starter.   
   

   
   I keep a large screw driver onboard and the rare times the panel button didn't work, I simply shorted the terminals at the starter, to override the solenoid and engage the starter.  I've since rewired that red wire and it starts every time using the panel start button. 
   

   
   Chuck S 
   

   

   
      

   
   
   
 On 10/25/2022 10:10 PM David Knecht via CnC-List  wrote: 


 


 
   More diagnosis- I found that when I checked the voltage at the engine panel ammeter (where power comes to the panel), it was 12V.  When I checked at the input side of the key switch it was 12 V.  When I turned the key switch on, I got 10V on the other pole of the key switch and everywhere downstream. I am presuming it should be 12V on both sides. I do not understand what that means and hoping someone else does.  The other weird thing is that as I have worked on this, there are times when the battery meter in the cabin bounces all over the place from 9V to 12V and back and then finally settles at 12.9V.  At the same time, the batteries are measuring 12.5V.  Something very strange is happening.  Dave 

 
 
  
  
S/V Aries 
   
  
1990 C 34+ 
   
  
New London, CT 
   

  
 
 
  
  
  
On Oct 25, 2022, at 2:56 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List  wrote: 
   
   
   
   
 HELP!  I am stumped and hoping someone can point me in the right direction.  Long descrition as best i can recall. Two weeks ago i thought i would get a head start on a project. My start button has been flakey this summer with now and then nothing happening when pressed. Decided to replace key switch, glow plug and start buttons. I installed key and glow but could not get start out so gave up. Engine started fine after rewiring. Come back next week and no response to start button. Battery fine. Lots of messing around but no luck. Come back today and wire in new start button in case old bad. Recheck wiring and realize key switch is wired backwards (does it matter? I guess you are supplying power to downstream stuff when off?). Did not check and misremembered which wire supplied power. Swapped wires on key switch and checked meter and 12v on proper side (bat).All looks good.  Turn on key switch and fuel pump starts as normal. Push start button and nothing. Now i measure 4v at engine panel instead of 12. Battery meters dead display and measuring 4v at its inputs. But 12v at battery and main power switch. Other devices fine. Over an hour now and panel and battery meter up to 6v so seems to be slowly recovering. What is going on? Did i screw something up when key switch was backwards?  Dave 
 
Sent from my iPhone 

   
  
 
 

   
 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Dave S via CnC-List]

No doubt there are super cheap varieties out there, along with better stuff.
I have a really old roll, 20+ years.  Great stuff.  WhenI reinstall my deck 
hatches I’ll finally use it up or will run short.  Will need another big roll 
for the next 20!

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2022, at 6:02 PM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> My feeling of the Bed-it-Butyl, is that it seems to kind of hold together.
> While the original or garden variety from the RV stores keeps moving, under 
> head it seems like it will drip away, while the Bed-it seems to not move, 
> more firm,  like it has invisible fibers in it. (it doesn't)
> 
> Also, diesel will dissolve it, as well as 5200 and 4200.
> 
> Bill Coleman
> Entrada, Erie PA
> 
>> On Tue, Oct 25, 2022 at 5:26 PM Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find it 
>> doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality 
>> products don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted, 
>> has had private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good 
>> for him)   Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging 
>> etc….
>> 
>> The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that for 
>> any refit, knowing it will outlast me.
>> Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
>> Dave 33-2 windstar 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it. 
>>> 
>>> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
>>> 
>>> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
>>> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 
>>> 1/8" x 3/4” 
>>> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  
>>> 
>>> Here is the link to Amazon:
>>> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -
>>> Paul E.
>>> 1981 C Landfall 38 
>>> S/V Johanna Rose
>>> Fort Walton Beach, FL
>>> 
>>> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
>>> 
>>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>>>> 
>>>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List 
>>>>>  wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape. 
>>>>>  I have both and find them similar.
>>>>> 
>>>>> Neil Schiller
>>>>> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
>>>>> Whitehall, Michigan
>>>>> 
>>>>>> On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
>>>>>> Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
>>>>>> sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
>>>>>> 
>>>>>> Chuck S
>>> 

Stus-List Re: bed-it butyl tape source

[Dave S via CnC-List]

It would be interesting to compare bed-it to other butyl tapes.   I find it 
doubtful that it has any special marine magic mojo that other quality products 
don’t.it is very likely Rod found a good product he trusted, has had 
private labelled, and has done a good job of promoting it.  (Good for him)   
Likely there is another brand out there with identical packaging etc….

The butyl C used originally has stood up really well and I’d use that for any 
refit, knowing it will outlast me.
Long shot here but does anyone know what the factory used?
Dave 33-2 windstar 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 25, 2022, at 12:34 PM, Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Thanks Paul. I have ordered some and will compare it. 
> 
> Oct. 25, 2022 8:06:14 a.m. Dreuge via CnC-List :
> 
> I have purchased Dicor butyl tape from Amazon.  I have been using it for 
> several years now, and this stuff is the real deal.  See "Dicor BT-1834-1 
> 1/8" x 3/4” 
> x 30' Butyl Seal Tape” for $11.86 Prime free delivery.  
> 
> Here is the link to Amazon:
> https://www.amazon.com/Dicor-BT-1834-1-Butyl-Seal-Tape/dp/B001FCB4JS/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=butyl%2Btape=1666702413=eyJxc2MiOiI0Ljk1IiwicXNhIjoiNC4zNiIsInFzcCI6IjQuMTIifQ%3D%3D=buty%2Caps%2C92=8-3=1
> 
> 
> -
> Paul E.
> 1981 C Landfall 38 
> S/V Johanna Rose
> Fort Walton Beach, FL
> 
> http://svjohannarose.blogspot.com/
> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 8:05 AM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On Oct 25, 2022, at 7:51 AM, schiller via CnC-List  
>>> wrote:
>>> 
>>>  If you can't get Bed-it.  Try your local RV store for Dicor Butyl tape.  
>>> I have both and find them similar.
>>> 
>>> Neil Schiller
>>> 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
>>> Whitehall, Michigan
>>> 
 On 10/24/2022 11:16 PM, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List wrote:
 Still looking for a source for Bed-it butyl tape.  Every one I check is 
 sold out or out of stock.  Has anyone bought some recently? 
 
 Chuck S
> 

Stus-List Re: 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Mike - I’m in the GTA actually but I had a place on the the south shore 
(my dad lives there)
Plastics are within my workshop capability.  Have the frames in the car and 
will visit a local metal finishing shop this week to see what they recommend, 
will post the info of course.

Dave 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 24, 2022, at 8:30 AM, Hoyt, Mike  wrote:
> 
> 
> Hi Dave
>  
> If I remember correctly you are located in Nova Scotia.  Bailey’s Plastics in 
> East Lawrencetown, NS (the Lawrencetown past Cole Harbour not the one in the 
> Valley) made the companionway slider and hatch boards for Persistence.  They 
> did this for four or five boats this season and also can manufacture 
> replacement windows.  They do good work at a reasonable cost
>  
> Hope this helps
>  
> Mike Hoyt
> Persistence
> Halifax, NS
>  
> From: Dave S via CnC-List  
> Sent: October 23, 2022 2:03 PM
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Stus-List 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle
>  
> 
> Good day all.
> I must be looking for things to do because I'm pondering how I might improve 
> the companionway hatch.  The acrylic is crazed and requires replacement, and 
> I've also noticed some of the turtle (fiberglass cover/housing) screws had 
> loosened.   
> I've disassembled it, and documented it on the blog, follow the link below.
> There's a bit of dirt under there but everything appears to be in good shape.
> I've detected no issues however I do wonder if it ought to have drainage 
> holes other than into the cockpit.
> It appears to have had some sealant (butyl?) installed between the turtle and 
> coachroof, however it was certainly not sealed.  Perhaps it should not be 
> sealed to the cabin top at all?
> Though there is no indication of water ingress, I will drill out, epoxy-fill, 
> and redrill the mounting holes.
> The teak rails and stop block appear to be in excellent shape.
> The exposed teak is in good shape however it is subject to weathering and is 
> not easy to remove for maintenance.   
>  
> Has anyone else gone down this rabbit hole, and if so what improvements are 
> worth making?
>  
> Thanks, Dave
> 33-2 Windstar
> http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/companionway-hatch.html
>  
>  
>  

Stus-List 33-2 companionway hatch and turtle

[Dave S via CnC-List]


Good day all.
I must be looking for things to do because I'm pondering how I might improve 
the companionway hatch.  The acrylic is crazed and requires replacement, and 
I've also noticed some of the turtle (fiberglass cover/housing) screws had 
loosened.   
I've disassembled it, and documented it on the blog, follow the link below.
There's a bit of dirt under there but everything appears to be in good shape.
I've detected no issues however I do wonder if it ought to have drainage holes 
other than into the cockpit.
It appears to have had some sealant (butyl?) installed between the turtle and 
coachroof, however it was certainly not sealed.  Perhaps it should not be 
sealed to the cabin top at all?
Though there is no indication of water ingress, I will drill out, epoxy-fill, 
and redrill the mounting holes.
The teak rails and stop block appear to be in excellent shape.
The exposed teak is in good shape however it is subject to weathering and is 
not easy to remove for maintenance.   

Has anyone else gone down this rabbit hole, and if so what improvements are 
worth making?

Thanks, Dave
33-2 Windstar
http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/companionway-hatch.html

Stus-List Schaefer rope clutch wanted

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Evening all - does anyone have any schaefer rope clutches in their parts
collection?
Please message me with what you have and  price.   Thanks.
Dave
Windstar, 33-2

Stus-List Bomar hatch refurbishment question - latch removal

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hello all,

Removed the Bomar hatches from my 1985 33ii today and it went swimmingly
until I encountered a puzzle  How to remove the latches from the
foredeck hatch?   The outer handle appears to be staked in place with a
roll pin in a blind hole, and the interior handle appears to be fixed with
a key in a slot.
Pics of this are at the end of the page in the blog entry below.
Before I proceed, has anyone dealt with this before?  Any suggestions?
Thanks as always, Dave.
33-2 Windstar

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2022/10/hatch-refurbishment.html

Stus-List Re: 33-2 hatch screws?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Thanks Paul - do you happen to have the part number(s) of the Lewmar hatches 
you used?

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Oct 9, 2022, at 10:21 AM, Paul Fountain  wrote:
> 
> 
> On  our 33-ll they go into the fibreglass lip around the hatches.
> 
> We replaced the bomar hatches with Lewmar ocean series hatches that turned 
> out to match the openings better.  When we were doing this we found some 
> cracks in the liner/ deck moles join which we filled with gflex.
> 
> Paul
> From: Dave S via CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, October 9, 2022 9:55:41 AM
> To: C Stus List 
> Cc: Dave S 
> Subject: Stus-List 33-2 hatch screws?
>  
> Hello all,
> Time to consider replacing the crazed acrylic on Windstar’s 3 bomar hatches.  
>  These are fastened through the deck with Philips-head screws, and are bedded 
> in butyl.   The interior/underside of the deck is neither visible nor 
> accessible as it is covered by the liner.
> What do these screws screw in to?   Nuts?  Tapped backing plates?   The 
> fiberglass deck only?
> Anything I should be aware of as I tackle this?
> 
> Thanks all, as always.
> 
> Dave 33-2 windstar
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List 33-2 hatch screws?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Hello all,
Time to consider replacing the crazed acrylic on Windstar’s 3 bomar hatches.   
These are fastened through the deck with Philips-head screws, and are bedded in 
butyl.   The interior/underside of the deck is neither visible nor accessible 
as it is covered by the liner.
What do these screws screw in to?   Nuts?  Tapped backing plates?   The 
fiberglass deck only?
Anything I should be aware of as I tackle this?

Thanks all, as always.

Dave 33-2 windstar



Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: engine temp gage stuck 160

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Suggest you ensure the main ground (harness to a stud on the engine) is
good first, this was the culprit in my case, where a few things were
misbehaving intermittently.

Dave   33-2



On Wed, 28 Sept 2022 at 14:19, CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Noticed when my engine was off, that the *temperature gage is indicating
> 160 degrees*.  It used to go to full left of the range but needle seems
> stuck or something else going on.
>
> Also noticed a few times, that the *Tach was erratic* but the belt was
> not slipping which I heard meant a bad wiring harness connection.  I did
> move all those wires when I painted the interior and resupported the wire
> bundle.
>
> Guess I have to take apart the harness plugs and lube with WD40?
>
> Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R
>

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Interesting indeed - especially the part about freeze/thaw  keel casting 
failures.he attributes these to bolt deterioration, but I expect that 
leaking bedding, imperfect casting, or lose bolts may also contribute.  

Here’s what casting failure looks like:

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/09/mid-1980s-c-keel-issues.html?m=1

Dave Syer 33-2



Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 27, 2022, at 7:17 AM, Ken Heaton  wrote:
> 
> 
> An interesting read from MarsKeel Technology, Keel Maintenance By: William 
> Souter
> 
> https://46in1h3fzpsy3uz5el3ytm6p-wpengine.netdna-ssl.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/12/Keel_Repair_White_Paper.pdf
> 
> Ken H.
> 
>> On Mon, 26 Sept 2022 at 16:29, Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> I’ve been following this thread a little bit, And I can’t help but wonder if 
>> the lead doesn’t creep a tiny bit over time.  There’s a lot of compression 
>> involved.  It wouldn’t take much to see a reduction in bolt torque.
>> 
>> Dave 33-2
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>>> On Sep 26, 2022, at 2:27 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List 
>>>>  wrote:
>>>> 
>>> 
>>> What do Mars Keels have to say?
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Sent from Mail for Windows
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: G Donald Wagner via CnC-List
>>> Sent: September 25, 2022 7:30 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; G Donald Wagner
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> I believe our C yachts use lead doped with  a percent of Antimony. The 
>>> Antimony adds strength, hardness, oxidation resistance,  and aids in the 
>>> flow for the casting process.
>>> 
>>> It not like pure lead, and the properties are not the same. maybe we have 
>>> some metallurgists in the group, and they can comment ?
>>> 
>>> Don Wagner
>>> 
>>> C 41 CB
>>> 
>>> "Der Baron"
>>> 
>>> -Original Message-
>>> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>>> To: 'Stus-List' 
>>> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
>>> Sent: Sun, Sep 25, 2022 2:32 pm
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>> 
>>> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
>>> boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> Joe Della Barba
>>> 
>>> Coquina C 35 MK I
>>> 
>>> Kent Island MD USA
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List  
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
>>> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>>> Cc: Leeward Rail 
>>> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>>> 
>>>  
>>> 
>>> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull 
>>> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to 
>>> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>>> 
>>>  

Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I.ve managed to keep mine healthy also, though if not used it can go off,
particularly in the hot water tank.
Based on his many years' experience, my Dad advised a beginning of season
flush (shock I guess)  through the tank, all pumps and fittings with  a
high concentration of bleach/water, then rinse/refill with clean water.   I
will add approx 1 tbsp or so of bleach to the full 113l tank if it's going
to sit.   (I wrote the exact amount on the tank.)the HW tank may start
to go off if I've not used the boat enough, in which case I drain and
repeat the process. Seems to work fine.  Have shared this with others
who've struggled to keep their water fresh with similar results.

When cruising (12 days max so far, always in midsummer heat)  I fill not
only the tank, but also several 1.5l water bottles.   I freeze those at
home and stack in the bottom of the fridge to the extent that space
permits.  I thaw these one at a time as they get used.cooking, coffee,
tooth-brushing etc is done with the tank water,  and drinking from cold
bottled water.   If I refill the tank mid-cruise, I also refill the
bottles.   If the boat hasn't been sitting idle for weeks I am comfortable
with the tank water though I'll likely get a filter at some point.

Dave 33-2

On Mon, 26 Sept 2022 at 18:39, David Risch via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Cleaned and shocked the tanks every year.  Its what we drank numerous
> times when Bermuda bound.  No ill effects from the water.
>
>
>
> We now live aboard and drink tank water twice filtered.
>
>
>
> Key is rotation.  Use it and fill it.
>
>
>
> However took four water tests – 1) unfiltered, filtered once, filtered
> twice and bottled water.  The results were the same.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* dwight veinot via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Monday, September 26, 2022 2:36 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* dwight veinot 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
>
>
> Are you brave enough to drink water from your fresh water tanks or even
> cook food with it?  Filter or not it's good for washing dishes and
> showering. Quality potable in those tanks; if I was dying of thirst. Maybe.
> Take the filter out. Be careful of where you take on water and chlorinate
>
>
>
> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 12:59 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> I mostly solved the mystery of my fresh water pump and wanted to update
> the discussion.  I got another identical Jabsco pump from Defender to
> replace the new one that was not shutting off and I was able to test the
> new one without removing the previous new one.  It did exactly the same
> thing which made me convinced the problem was elsewhere.  The hint came
> when I realized that air was getting into the system because the water
> coming out of the tap had frequent air gaps in flow.  I knew the problem
> was in the inflow because the pressure that the pump generated was
> maintained in the outflow system for many days.  I did not think the
> problem was in the tank lines since they were not leaking water.  The
> manifold also seemed fine.  My suspicion then centered on the filter
> between the manifold and the pump.  I pulled that out of the line and the
> pump pressurized and shut off quickly.  I am still not sure where the
> filter housing was leaking air but there is no obvious seal between the
> housing and the base.  Unlike the pump, that filter design has changed
> radically in what came with the new pump, so I suspect I am not the first
> to have problems with it.  Dave
>
>
>
> S/V Aries
>
> 1990 C 34+
>
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 9, 2022, at 2:52 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>
>
> I have had new pump pressure switch failure occur shortly after
> installation.
>
>
>
> Get Outlook for Android
> 
> --
>
> *From:* Bill Coleman via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Tuesday, September 6, 2022 12:06:47 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Bill Coleman 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Fresh water pump dead?
>
>
>
> And not to beat a dead horse, but as I mentioned B4, I had no luck with
> the t;ypical pumps available, and once I went with the Johnson, all my
> problems went away. Maybe they have a better designed check valve.
>
>
>
> Bill Coleman
>
>
>
> On Tue, Sep 6, 2022 at 3:07 PM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Good thoughts.  I can see in my tanks and there is not any significant
> amount of sludge.  I also have a strainer that was already in the line just
> before the pump.  The pump came with one, but I elected to leave the
> existing one in place.  I cleaned the filter and 

Stus-List Re: Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Merci!

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2022, at 3:52 PM, dwight veinot via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> No. 
> 
>> On Mon, Sep 26, 2022 at 4:51 PM Dave S via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is 
>> available, versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
>> Yanmar 2GM….  Thx. 
>> 
>> Dave.   
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile

Stus-List Rotella T5 - 10w30 vs 15w40?

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Does it matter in any practical sense whether I use 10W-30, which is available, 
versus 15 W 40, which was available last time I bought a jug…
Yanmar 2GM….  Thx. 

Dave.   

Sent from my iPhone

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I’ve been following this thread a little bit, And I can’t help but wonder if 
the lead doesn’t creep a tiny bit over time.  There’s a lot of compression 
involved.  It wouldn’t take much to see a reduction in bolt torque.

Dave 33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 26, 2022, at 2:27 PM, John Irvin via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> What do Mars Keels have to say?
>  
> Sent from Mail for Windows
>  
> From: G Donald Wagner via CnC-List
> Sent: September 25, 2022 7:30 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; G Donald Wagner
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>  
> I believe our C yachts use lead doped with  a percent of Antimony. The 
> Antimony adds strength, hardness, oxidation resistance,  and aids in the flow 
> for the casting process.
> It not like pure lead, and the properties are not the same. maybe we have 
> some metallurgists in the group, and they can comment ?
> 
> Don Wagner
> C 41 CB
> "Der Baron"
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com
> Sent: Sun, Sep 25, 2022 2:32 pm
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
> 
> I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I keep the 
> boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
>  
> From: Leeward Rail via CnC-List  
> Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Cc: Leeward Rail 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
>  
> The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would pull 
> upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been planning to 
> contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.
>  

Stus-List Re: Marinco Nicro Day/Night Solar Vent motor replacement

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Under the right conditions the genoa sheet would launch it like a clay
pigeon from a catapult.. (lol)
For posterity and for anyone evaluating this at the moment, I share a blog
entry written at the time.
https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2019/07/33-2-ventilation-strategies.html

Dave, 33-2 Windstar




On Fri, 16 Sept 2022 at 22:54, Matthew via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Agreed.  Another annoying aspect of the new model is the space between the
> unit and mounting surface for a genny sheet to catch on.  If they get any
> taller I’ll need to put police tape around them.  Maybe they didn’t know
> the vents would be used on sailboats.
>
>
>
> *From:* Dave S via CnC-List 
> *Sent:* Friday, September 16, 2022 7:02 PM
> *To:* Stus-List 
> *Cc:* Dave S 
> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Marinco Nicro Day/Night Solar Vent motor
> replacement
>
>
>
> Mine is a newer gen 3” model.  5 years old maybe, and I’d not buy another.
>
>
>
>
>   I’ve tried my best to upgrade/repair/modify WINDSTAR in ways that are
> top notch, robust and reliable, and this product definitely isn’t.   It
> still works but the slide-switch is intermittent - the cheapest junk
> available, so the unit can’t be relied on to work as intended.  I’m quite
> able to repair or modify it to improve this, but life is short.   When It
> fails outright I’ll give it away and replace with an offshore-quality
> passive vent.  (4”)
>
> YMMV….
>
> Dave.  33-2
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
> On Sep 16, 2022, at 6:31 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>  My Nicro Solar Vent on the front hatch came with the boat when I bought
> it 16 years ago (2006)it still works fine...no idea actually how old it
> is...I replaced the rechargeable battery maybe 6 years agoit doesn't
> look as pretty as yours...mine has a white plastic frame.   Sooner or later
> the sun will deteriorate the frame but I will wait until that happens .
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2022-09-16 5:16 p.m., Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>
> I wish somebody would make a bombproof solar day/night vent.  I get about
> 4-6 years out of the Nicro day/night vents.  At $180 a pop that can add up.
>
>
>
> However, I don't replace them anymore.  If replacing the battery doesn't
> work, it's usually the motor.  I keep a spare with a replacement motor.
> When one fails, I just swap the vents and replace the motor in the dead one
> to keep as the spare.
>
>
>
> Anyway, the motor is under $10.  I just bought a two pack of them on
> Amazon for $9.  Search for RF-500TB DC hobby motor.  The voltage may vary
> from 3-10 VDC.  The listed RPM can run up to 6000 but with the blade on,
> it's much less.  Its approximate dimensions are 32 mm (1.2 in) diameter x
> 19-20 mm (0.76 in) tall.
>
>
>
> If you're handy with a soldering iron/gun, it's about a 20-30 minute job
> to replace the motor.  The trick is to pull the entire assembly out of the
> housing.  Makes soldering a lot easier. Here's a step by step procedure.
>
>1. Remove the three mounting screws and save the o-rings (Important!)
>2. Remove the rubber cover on the switch and then the switch retaining
>ring
>3. Remove the fan blade
>4. Remove the solar panel assembly.  There are pry slots opposite each
>other on the periphery
>5. Remove the tiny screw beside the switch that holds in the motor
>assembly
>6. Note the color of wires to the battery contacts.It would be
>smart to mark white and black on the housing by the +/- marks
>7. Using needle nose pliers, pull up and remove the battery contacts.
>8. Remove the battery contact/switch/motor assembly
>9. Note the wiring and maybe draw a diagram for reference
>10. Unsolder the motor wires and solder in the new motor
>11. Put a couple wraps of duct tape around the body of the motor to
>keep it firmly in place.  The motor is a bit small.
>12. Reassemble in reverse order
>
> For reference, it's the Marinco Nicro model like this:
>
>
>
>
> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-koKUykESjorhZhwg6sZ2GS0MNYqUu5/view?usp=sharing
>
> --
>
> Dennis C.
>
> Touche' 35-1 #83
>
> Mandeville, LA
>
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Marinco Nicro Day/Night Solar Vent motor replacement

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Mine is a newer gen 3” model.  5 years old maybe, and I’d not buy another.  

  I’ve tried my best to upgrade/repair/modify WINDSTAR in ways that are top 
notch, robust and reliable, and this product definitely isn’t.   It still works 
but the slide-switch is intermittent - the cheapest junk available, so the unit 
can’t be relied on to work as intended.  I’m quite able to repair or modify it 
to improve this, but life is short.   When It fails outright I’ll give it away 
and replace with an offshore-quality passive vent.  (4”)
YMMV….
Dave.  33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 16, 2022, at 6:31 PM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
>  My Nicro Solar Vent on the front hatch came with the boat when I bought it 
> 16 years ago (2006)it still works fine...no idea actually how old it 
> is...I replaced the rechargeable battery maybe 6 years agoit doesn't look 
> as pretty as yours...mine has a white plastic frame.   Sooner or later the 
> sun will deteriorate the frame but I will wait until that happens .
> 
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
> 
> On 2022-09-16 5:16 p.m., Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
>> I wish somebody would make a bombproof solar day/night vent.  I get about 
>> 4-6 years out of the Nicro day/night vents.  At $180 a pop that can add up.
>>   
>> However, I don't replace them anymore.  If replacing the battery doesn't 
>> work, it's usually the motor.  I keep a spare with a replacement motor.  
>> When one fails, I just swap the vents and replace the motor in the dead one 
>> to keep as the spare.
>> 
>> Anyway, the motor is under $10.  I just bought a two pack of them on Amazon 
>> for $9.  Search for RF-500TB DC hobby motor.  The voltage may vary from 3-10 
>> VDC.  The listed RPM can run up to 6000 but with the blade on, it's much 
>> less.  Its approximate dimensions are 32 mm (1.2 in) diameter x 19-20 mm 
>> (0.76 in) tall.
>> 
>> If you're handy with a soldering iron/gun, it's about a 20-30 minute job to 
>> replace the motor.  The trick is to pull the entire assembly out of the 
>> housing.  Makes soldering a lot easier. Here's a step by step procedure.
>> Remove the three mounting screws and save the o-rings (Important!)
>> Remove the rubber cover on the switch and then the switch retaining ring
>> Remove the fan blade
>> Remove the solar panel assembly.  There are pry slots opposite each other on 
>> the periphery
>> Remove the tiny screw beside the switch that holds in the motor assembly
>> Note the color of wires to the battery contacts.It would be smart to 
>> mark white and black on the housing by the +/- marks
>> Using needle nose pliers, pull up and remove the battery contacts. 
>> Remove the battery contact/switch/motor assembly
>> Note the wiring and maybe draw a diagram for reference
>> Unsolder the motor wires and solder in the new motor
>> Put a couple wraps of duct tape around the body of the motor to keep it 
>> firmly in place.  The motor is a bit small.
>> Reassemble in reverse order
>> For reference, it's the Marinco Nicro model like this:
>> 
>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1f-koKUykESjorhZhwg6sZ2GS0MNYqUu5/view?usp=sharing
>> -- 
>> Dennis C.
>> Touche' 35-1 #83
>> Mandeville, LA
> 

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Second that.   When I rebuilt my keel sump, I had removed the keel bolts, and I 
figured I should Re bed the keel at the same time.  The boat was on the hard 
and not easily accessible by a travel lift, so I  raised the hull as much as I 
could with the six cradle pads and cleaned out the keel/hull joint with a 
hacksaw blade.  Imperfect but it worked.  I used 4200 (iirc) to squeeze into 
the gap, and worked it in with a coffee stir stick.  I then lowered the hull 
and partially tightened the bolts, then tooled the joint with an acetone 
dampened rag to remove the squeeze out.  After it cured I torqued the bolts.  
I then had the impulse to skim the joint with an angle grinder, about 3” back 
on either side and I covered it with fine glass cloth and epoxy which I faired 
once cured.   I figured I could easily skim it off if it failed (which I 
expected) or if I needed to do maintenance in future.   8 years later it’s 
still going strong, no issues evident, and the joint is undetectable. 

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2016/08/repair-of-keelhull-joint-closing.html?m=1

Dave 
33-2 windstar



Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 13, 2022, at 6:59 PM, John Read via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Remember 5200 is a permanent adhesive - not a sealant
> 
> 
> 
> John Read
> Legacy III
> 1982 C 34
> Noank, CT
> -Original Message-
> From: james drew via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2022 5:12 PM
> To: Stus-List
> Cc: james drew
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts
> 
> Hello Dwight,
> Did you use any bedding compound in the smile before you glassed?
> I was planning on doing some tightening this winter and was contemplating
> squeezing 3M 5200 into the smile before tightening and then glassing the
> exterior of the smile.
> Cheers,
> jpdsailor=

Stus-List Re: Eight Bells for Rob Ball

[Dave S via CnC-List]

RIP Rob, and thanks.

For those who have not seen this, enjoy.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=F5EUNYc_xiw



Dave
33-2 Windstar

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 10, 2022, at 3:07 PM, Dean McNeill via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Such sad news. 
> 
> I too have benefitted from Robs excellent design skills and his thoughtful 
> and generous advice. 
> 
> Rest In Peace sir.
> 
> Dean
> C 34
> Halifax, NS
> 
> 
>> On Sep 10, 2022, at 9:05 AM, Thomas Perison via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Fair Winds and Following Seas Rob. 
>> We are better as a sailing community and world because of your legacy. 
>> 
>> Tom
>> Therapy 
>> 29 Mk 2 
>> Solomons MD 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Sep 10, 2022, at 2:10 AM, Randal Stafford via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Listers, I regret to report that Pat Mangan Ball posted end-of-watch 
>>> 9/9/22 for Rob Ball, on the C Owners Facebook group 50 minutes ago.
>>> 
>>> Respectfully,
>>> Randy Stafford
>>> SV Grenadine
>>> C 30 MK I #79
>>> Ken Caryl, CO
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
> 

Stus-List Re: C Steak Rub

[Dave S via CnC-List]

That’s one I keep on the boat - ‘barberians’ is the brand.  Easy.   Also 
Italian seasoning or herbes de Provence, other basics.  Not so basic, are sun 
dried tomatoes and some assorted dried mushrooms and hot peppers from the local 
Asian supermarkets.  Couscous, risotto. Also -  Look up ‘thermal cooker’.   All 
are shortcuts to elevated cooking in a C  (Mine a 33-2)

Dave 



Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 9, 2022, at 8:51 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
>  Montreal steal seasoning is my recommendation.  I saw someone recommended 
> liquid smoke.  Be careful with this.  More than a drop will leave a bitter 
> after taste.
> 
> Get Outlook for Android
> From: Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List 
> Sent: Tuesday, September 6, 2022 3:58:59 PM
> To: CnClist 
> Cc: Ronald B. Frerker 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: C Steak Rub
>  
> Melt butter; put the s and worcestershire in it.  Paint it on.
> Ron
> Wild Cheri
> C 30-1
> STL
> 
> 
> On Tuesday, September 6, 2022, 03:51:39 PM CDT, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Okay, so Stu doesn't sell a C brand steak rub.  I wanted to make it "list 
> legal".  :)  List traffic has been light so here's a new thread.
> 
> Although I'm usually happy with just Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper on 
> my boat steaks, occasionally I like to amp up the flavor profile.
> 
> I've tried a number of store bought steak rubs, McCormick, Weber, etc.  Here 
> in Louisiana the humidity causes them to set up into a lump when stored on 
> the boat.  I even keep them in a plastic zipper bag.  One rub I use, Bolners 
> Fiesta Hamburger Deluxe, stays loose and shakeable for whatever reason.
> 
> Any suggestions on a steak rub that wouldn't clump up?
> 
> -- 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

Stus-List Re: Bimini or dodger extender suggestions

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Quite happy with the arrangement on my 33-2

https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2017/01/random-photos-hopefully-revealing-some.html?m=1

Dave 
Windstar 33-2



Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 2, 2022, at 2:59 AM, Dean McNeill via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Anyone have a nice bimini or dodger extension set up for a C 34 (1980 
> vintage) or similar boat, that they like, and would share pictures? 
> 
> I have a nice dodger, but thinking of adding something extra for those very 
> sunny days… not looking to break the bank, just wondering what options people 
> like. Bonus points for something that can work with mainsail up and underway!
> 
> Dean Mc
> BarraWind
> C 34
> Halifax, NS
> _
> 

Stus-List Re: Water back flowing through the head

[Dave S via CnC-List]

If no overboard discharge, If black water it’s the joker valve, if sea water 
the flapper.  
Mine does both under the right conditions.   I close the raw water intake when 
under way, and change the joker valve every season, PLUS keeping the holding 
tank pumped out.

Dave 


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2022, at 12:36 PM, StrightR--- via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone experienced water back flowing through the head despite dry bowl 
> left in the closed position?  Raritan head. Assume it could be a defective 
> Joker valve or flapper valve.  Anyone had a similar problem and if so what 
> was the cure.
>  
> Thanks
> Rod

Stus-List Re: TMC galley pump installation

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I did this last weekend and yes, had to remove the rubber.   It is glued on the 
new one, but the bond can be broken by prying with a mid-sized screwdriver. It 
can be pulled straight off the old one.   Apparently rebuild kits are available 
for these however I’ve not been able to locate one for sale.

Dave Syer
33-2

Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 30, 2022, at 4:45 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> As I recall the rubber can be removed, which reduces the size sufficiently 
> to remove.  A bit of a pain.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>>> On Aug 29, 2022, at 9:26 PM, ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> 
>> You have to remove the rubber cover from the pump handle. It has to be pried 
>> off.
>> 
>> Alan Bergen
>> 35 Mk III Thirsty
>> Rose City YC
>> Portland, OR
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>> On Mon, Aug 29, 2022 at 5:07 PM itirifon--- via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> Hi all,
>>> 
>>> The galley pump on my C 33-2 started to leak and I bough a new one 
>>> (TMC-70701) which seems to be an exact in place replacement. The problem I 
>>> have is that I can’t take the pedal out through the hole that is cut. Do I 
>>> have to take the pump into parts and reassemble - feels like this is not 
>>> the right approach?
>>> 
>>> https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1qyWnQw8quUubMBxYOA99EZbm0J_GN5m-?usp=sharing
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> 
>>> Jimmi
>>> 1987 C 33 MKII
>>> Anacortes, WA
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries

[Dave S via CnC-List]

When I brought the LiFePo batteries to the boat last spring I climbed a ladder 
with 2 group 31 batteries in one hand.  Didn’t realize it till I was halfway up 
the ladder.  Made me smile.  
 For me this was a no-brainer.   I could not have gotten the usable capacity I 
wanted in the footprint available, and would have needed to modify the boat and 
add even more backbreaking weight.  The other benefits of lithium were a 
pleasant surprise.  
lead-acid now seems like quaint, antique technology to me.  Others may differ 
of course.  

Dave 
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 29, 2022, at 2:56 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> That is half the reason I am interested, hauling heavy hunks of lead around 
> is tough on the back past a certain age, never mind the effect on the boat.
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List  
> Sent: Friday, July 29, 2022 11:54 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Joel Aronson 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Lithium Batteries
>  
> flooded 8D is 160 pounds.  200 aH Lifepo is 40.
>  

Stus-List Re: Solar Panel on Bimini top

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Yes.

http://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/search/label/Solar%20and%20Batteries?m=1

Dave
33-2 Windstar


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2022, at 11:22 PM, Wade Glew via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> Has anyone figured out how to mount a flexible solar panel on the bimini top 
> without the panel edges/corners chafing the sunbrella?
> 
> Wade
> Oh Boy, C 33 mk II
> Lake of the Woods

Stus-List Re: Engine tachometer

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Mine did this as a result of a bad wiring harness ground at the engine.  

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 26, 2022, at 7:04 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yesterday, I was motoring and noticed that the engine tachometer was acting 
> strangely.  It would read 4000 rpm for a while and then drop back to 2000 rpm 
> (roughly correct).  Then it would go up to 3000 rpm and hold there.  It kept 
> bouncing around while the actual engine was steady, so it was just the tach.  
> I have no idea where the data comes from, what would cause this, and whether 
> to worry about it.  The engine is a Universal M4-30.  Thanks- Dave
> 
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
> 
> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Sad Cetol story

[Dave S via CnC-List]

This is why my therapist prescribed stainless steel handrails….. ;-)

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 10, 2022, at 12:41 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> 
> The issue with Touche's cap rails, and any other teak fastened using bungs, 
> is you can't totally encapsulate them with one series of coats of Cetol.  You 
> need to coat the surface that abuts the fiberglass with several coats then 
> fasten it to the boat and finish the bungs.  Then you can apply the remaining 
> coats of Cetol.  The interface between the first series of coats and second 
> series of coats needs to be hidden or where it's not easily seen.  If you're 
> somewhat anal like me, that is.
> --
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022 at 10:19 AM Chris Riedinger via CnC-List 
>>  wrote:
>> Imo with a Forstner bit the plugs come out easily and you don't have to do 
>> any masking
>> 
>> This is a reminder that I need to measure for new covers to go on our rails, 
>> thanks 
>> 
>>> On Sun, Jul 10, 2022, 8:13 AM John McCrea via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> I gave up on mine and sealed with epoxy and painted them off white. 
>>> Actually looks really nice. 
>>> 
>>> John McCrea 
>>> 
> 

Stus-List Re: Engine not turning over

[Dave S via CnC-List]

While you are at this, you might check the engine ground stud for corrosion
- disassemble, clean it  and the terminals up, protect with dielectric
grease, reassemble.  Not a huge job.   The harness and a bunch of other
stuff grounds at this point and unreliable or high resistance grounds can
cause problems that can be easily misunderstood.   (wasting time and money
in resolution-BTDT)

Dave



On Thu, 7 Jul 2022 at 11:51, David Knecht via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Thanks for the thoughts.  Chris wins today’s prize.  We got it working
> again today.  It seemed to be the starter button.  When I shorted the
> contacts it worked and after cleaning those contacts, all seems to be
> well.  I am considering replacing that 20 year old switch along with the
> glow plug button and key switch on that panel.  Anything mechanical and
> exposed like that I presume to have a limited lifetime and those are 30
> years old.  Dave
>
> S/V Aries
> 1990 C 34+
> New London, CT
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 7, 2022, at 9:27 AM, Chris Riedinger 
> wrote:
>
> Sounds like the start button or perhaps neutral safety -did you jiggle the
> shifter?
>
>
>
> The stop knob wouldn't prevent the motor from turning over, but good on
> you for honesty
>
>
>
>
> On Thu, Jul 7, 2022, 6:08 AM David Knecht via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Last night, out of the blue, my engine would not turn over after a race.
>> Nothing at all when I push the start button.  I ran the engine before the
>> race and all was fine and have had no issues at all this year.
>> Fortunately, I was able to sail the short distance to the mooring without a
>> problem.  I will be going out to the boat later to try to fix the problem
>> and wanted to see if anyone had thoughts on the problem from personal
>> experience.
>>
>> Plenty of power- batteries fully charged.  I tried bridging the two
>> batteries just to be sure and still nothing happens.
>> Key switch on I can hear the fuel pump ticking over.
>>  I measured 12V across the start button poles, which goes to zero when
>> pressed and my recollection is that is normal the way it is wired with the
>> glow plug button.  I have not yet measured at the starter, as that is a
>> real PITA to get to.
>>
>> Everything had been working fine up until that incident.  The only thing
>> that happened during the race, (and I don’t think relevant) is that the
>> genoa sheet got wrapped around the engine stop pull knob at one point.  I
>> checked and the cable and stop look fine, and the engine should still turn
>> over even if it were pulled, is my understanding.  It just should not
>> start.
>>
>> So I am thinking either engine ground wire or starter and plan to clean
>> both and try again.  Any thoughts welcome.  Thanks- Dave
>>
>> S/V Aries
>> 1990 C 34+
>> New London, CT
>>
>>
>> 
>
>
>

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Good to hear.   How the heck did the old one get that clogged?   Bad decade
for mosquitoes?

Dave



On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to
> addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of
> something.I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last
> year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out
> the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the
> engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward
> gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine
> off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should.
>
> The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming
> fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke.
>
> Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause
> of my engine issue.
>
> Going for a sail tomorrow.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C 32 - #277
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I’ve troubleshot a few and for what it’s worth I’ve not seen one here with an 
exhaust elbow issue on the Great Lakes.  This is always cited online as a 
trouble spot but it appears to be much less of a concern in Fresh water.The 
three  I’ve checked were original and clear of obstructions.  

Dave 33-2 windstar.



Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 26, 2022, at 9:49 PM, Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Yanmar exhaust elbows are evil.  I’ve has Alera for 10 years and am on my 
> third.
> 
> Tom Buscaglia
> S/V Alera 
> 1990 C 37+/40
> Vashon WA
> P 206.463.9200
> C 305.409.3660
> 
> 
>>> On Jun 26, 2022, at 6:00 PM, Rod Stright via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>> If replaced should  be  good just a common problem with the symptoms you 
>> described.
>> 
>> Rod 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
 On Jun 26, 2022, at 9:50 PM, Robert Abbott  
 wrote:
 
>>>  Rod
>>> 
>>> Mixing elbow, muffler (from small SS to larger resin) and exhaust hose were 
>>> all replaced a few years back.  I'd be surprised if the problem was there.
>>> 
>>> Rob
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> On 2022-06-26 2:59 p.m., Rod Stright wrote:
 Mixing elbow can cause problems like you experienced.
  
 From: Robert Abbott via CnC-List  
 Sent: June-26-22 12:40 PM
 To: Josh ; Stus-List 
 Cc: Robert Abbott 
 Subject: Stus-List Yanmar 2 GMF
  
 Bottom and prop is cleanboat is launched every Spring after Winter 
 layup.
 
 Checked the throttle cable and that seems to be finemost likely a fuel 
 issue
 
 On 2022-06-26 11:44 a.m., Josh wrote:
 Is the bottom and prop clean?
  
 Jun 26, 2022 09:39:09 Robert Abbott via CnC-List :
 
 
 Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out 
 heading into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found the 
 engine wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed 
 to be that complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know where to start 
 to trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke 
 to him and told him the situation and he thinks it is a fuel 
 problemengine not getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should 
 be clean as I had the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel 
 filters replaced. He thinks one or both of the filters are restricting the 
 fuel flow.I hope he is right but I don't think so. 
 
 Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc.  
 the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat 
 
 Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.
 
 Rob Abbott 
 AZURA 
 C 32 - #277 
 Halifax, N.S.
  
  
>>> 

Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF

[Dave S via CnC-List]

Rob - just went through this with a marina neighbour’s universal - went end to 
end and finally found that the governor had a tired spring. The  Good thing was 
that by the time we were done the entire fuel supply and exhaust were checked, 
optimized and are now known to be reliable, plus he can now bleed it in 
minutes, in the dark if need be.  The mechanics around here (GTA) are thin on 
the ground and he had two chasing the wrong things and wasting time before we 
tackled it ourselves. 
Good luck, Dave.  


Sent from my iPhone

> On Jun 26, 2022, at 4:44 PM, Neil Andersen via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Any overheating??   I had a bad riser on my “new-to-me” of another 
> manufacturer (still a Yanmar) and overheating was the first notable finding. 
> 
> Neil Andersen, W3NEA 
> Rock Hall, MD 21661
> 484-354-8800
> From: jameshesketh via CnC-List 
> Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2022 2:05:47 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: jameshesketh 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF
>  
> Just had the same symptoms on my Yanmar Sb8.
> My exhaust elbow was almost completely blocked causing excessive back 
> pressure. 
> 
>>> On Jun 26, 2022, at 9:38 AM, Robert Abbott via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>  
>> Went to take the boat out Friday for a short sail .motoring out heading 
>> into a12 knt breezestarted to increase the RPM's and found the engine 
>> wouldn't rev about 2,100 RPM's marine diesel's are not supposed to be 
>> that complicated but they are to me.  I wouldn't know where to start to 
>> trouble shootgetting a mechanic to deal with it this week.  I spoke to 
>> him and told him the situation and he thinks it is a fuel problemengine 
>> not getting enough fuelmy fuel tank and fuel should be clean as I had 
>> the bottom of it replaced 2 years ago and the 2 fuel filters replaced. He 
>> thinks one or both of the filters are restricting the fuel flow.I hope 
>> he is right but I don't think so. 
>> 
>> Possibly many are causesrestricted fuel injectors, fuel pump, etc.  
>> the engine has never been serviced in the 16 years I have had the boat
>> 
>> Any insight or guidance to help greatly appreciated.
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C 32 - #277
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>  

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again

[Dave S via CnC-List]

I addressed this with a 25a dc:dc charger, works great with my 50a hitachi 
alternator And despite the nominal rating difference it wouldn’t surprise me if 
I was actually charging more quickly and efficiently than before.  I do believe 
that the alternator will see less short term heat rise and may see less 
triggering of its thermal protective circuit.  (Which limits its ability to 
charge a deep cycle bank, well documented on marinehowto.com)  I never 
confirmed this but maybe one day I will,  provided I have absolutely nothing 
better to do.   (Lol) 
The “sacrifice” is that I don’t take full advantage of the 200ah lithium bank’s 
rapid charge potential, but this is academic in my case. 

Dave 

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 28, 2022, at 8:41 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Yes there is.
> If you connect an alternator straight to a lithium bank and the BMS opens, 
> you are likely to blow the diodes at best or do a lot of damage with a 
> voltage spike at worst. Besides for that, since lithium batteries can accept 
> a high rate of charge for a long time, they look like a dead short more or 
> less to a small alternator.
> Since the charging profile for lithium is different than any lead battery 
> including the fact all lead batteries should have temperature compensated 
> charging parameters and lithium does not do this, to correctly charge lead 
> batteries and lithium batteries from the same alternator, there is going to 
> have to be a DC-DC charger in there somewhere that uses the correct 
> parameters for the bank it is charging, either lead>lithium or lithium>lead. 
> In my case with a 60 amp alternator on an Atomic 4, I believe my best plan is 
> to charge the start battery and use DC-DC for the lithium bank.
> See 
> https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=16228=1=1651155864
>  
> * the A4 is a special case for charging. The pulley that drives the 
> alternator is small, so the alternator spins slower than on almost any other 
> engine. Max current at low RPMs is hell on alternators, that makes them run 
> hot with less cooling air from the slower turning fan. Even with a 120 amp 
> alternator on the engine and loading up with a hair dryer that sucks 90 amps, 
> I have never seen more than 45-50 amps from any alternator.
>  
> I could mess around with my regulator and set it up for lithium, the temp 
> sensor on the alternator should cause it to back off when very hot, but that 
> still doesn’t solve the BMS issue and I still need to charge the start bank 
> somehow.
>  
>  
> Joe Della Barba
> Coquina C 35 MK I
> Kent Island MD USA
>  
>  
> From: David Risch via CnC-List 
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 1:46 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: David Risch 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again
>  
> Joe,
>  
> We charge house then, a via “Digital Duo”, the start battery.   That seems to 
> be  the norm DC to DC.  Any reason you are doing it otherwise?
>  
> From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  
> Sent: Friday, May 27, 2022 11:14 AM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: Della Barba, Joe 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Batteries again
>  
> My batteries are pretty well shot, so this is all good info for me as well. I 
> always liked gels myself, but they are getting pretty hard to find now.
> I have been getting pretty tempted to go for a 300ah lithium, it will fit 
> right in and give me a TON more amp-hours. If I go that way I am going to 
> swap the alternator cable to the start battery and use a DC-DC charger for 
> the house bank. One perhaps not appreciated feature of lithium batteries is 
> that they are “stiff”, you maintain around 12.8 volts most of the way to 
> being dead. Wednesday morning I went to check into the Waterway Net and the 
> SSB wasn’t real happy to be seeing 12.4 volts, this would not be an issue 
> with a lithium bank unless it was down to its very last bit of juice.
>  
> Joe
> Coquina
>  
> From: Korbey Hunt via CnC-List  
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 11:12 PM
> To: Stus-List 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com; Korbey Hunt 
> Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>  
> I highly recommend Lifeline group 31
>  
> Get Outlook for Android
> From: Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
> Sent: Thursday, May 26, 2022 9:40:31 AM
> To: 'Stus-List' 
> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com 
> Subject: Stus-List Re: Batteries again
>  
> There is a lot of reason to be concerned about off brands. Pretty much all 
> cycling batteries of the same size will be about the same AH rating. There is 
> no magic in lead batteries, the AH per pound is pretty consistent.  What 
> matters *hugely* is the number of cycles that they can endure before being 
> trashed. The various cheap Chinese imports are highly variable to say the 
> least, their reviews are all over the place. Lifeline is usually considered 
> the best AGM maker.
> FYI – Deka makes all the West Marine AGMs, you might call around your local 
> battery shop and see what they charge. They are