Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D vs. 300SD?

[John Freer]

An 83 300D (that is what was asked) will have power windows and the
Auto A/C like in the 300SD. Engines are practically the same, both
being 617 turbo diesels. No power seats on the W123.

On 11/2/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

I have looked at many MB diesels, and still think the 123 chassis even with
non turbo engines (for simplicity)
was the high water mark of car design. Many will disagree about the turbo an
I know I am in the minority.
 I have toyed at buying the 115  and the 110 chassis an even some Ponton
diesels.  I do like the newer 190Ds
and 300D, but have not been able to quite make it pencil fiancially.
My heart always comes back to the 1977 to 1980 pre tubo 123 chassis, (my two
cents).  0-60mph in five minutes
Tom Scordato
- Original Message -
From: "Fred Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D vs. 300SD?


> Ditto on what Jeff and others have said about the
> differences.  I prefer the 123 though.  I prefer the
> smaller size and the feeling of driving the car versus
> riding along.  For me the 126 makes a great
> vacation/highway cruiser.  In most other situations I
> find it a little large and unwieldy and drive the 123,
> Civic or Alfa.  Systems wise I prefer the manual
> heating/AC controls versus the ACC on the 126.  Power
> locks, seats and windows are just something else that
> can go wrong.  I am the only person that drives my
> vehicles so I've set the seat once. Back and forth
> from work, it's the 240D.  700 mile roundtrip to Des
> Moines, or up to Wisc somewhere then it's the
> 300SD...and if I'm really feeling lucky,the Alfa.
>
> Fred Johnson
> Chicago
> 1977 240D
> 1981 300SD
> 1991 A/R 164L
> 1996 Civic
>
> --- Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> Ahhh, the dfferences are many and varied. The S
>> class is a much better
>> drive. Quieter and more relaxed, especially on the
>> highway!
>>
>> Between the two, I'd take the S any day! No
>> comparison!! I've had both and
>> the 123 is not in the same league as the 126.
>> (Obviously)
>>
>>
>>
>> Jeff Zedic
>> Toronto
>> ___
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>> For new parts see official list sponsor:
>> http://www.buymbparts.com/
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>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>>
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>>
>
>
>
>
> 

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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D vs. 300SD?

[ts]

I have looked at many MB diesels, and still think the 123 chassis even with 
non turbo engines (for simplicity)
was the high water mark of car design. Many will disagree about the turbo an 
I know I am in the minority.
I have toyed at buying the 115  and the 110 chassis an even some Ponton 
diesels.  I do like the newer 190Ds

and 300D, but have not been able to quite make it pencil fiancially.
My heart always comes back to the 1977 to 1980 pre tubo 123 chassis, (my two 
cents).  0-60mph in five minutes

Tom Scordato
- Original Message - 
From: "Fred Johnson" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 5:14 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D vs. 300SD?



Ditto on what Jeff and others have said about the
differences.  I prefer the 123 though.  I prefer the
smaller size and the feeling of driving the car versus
riding along.  For me the 126 makes a great
vacation/highway cruiser.  In most other situations I
find it a little large and unwieldy and drive the 123,
Civic or Alfa.  Systems wise I prefer the manual
heating/AC controls versus the ACC on the 126.  Power
locks, seats and windows are just something else that
can go wrong.  I am the only person that drives my
vehicles so I've set the seat once. Back and forth
from work, it's the 240D.  700 mile roundtrip to Des
Moines, or up to Wisc somewhere then it's the
300SD...and if I'm really feeling lucky,the Alfa.

Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1981 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic

--- Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Ahhh, the dfferences are many and varied. The S
class is a much better
drive. Quieter and more relaxed, especially on the
highway!

Between the two, I'd take the S any day! No
comparison!! I've had both and
the 123 is not in the same league as the 126.
(Obviously)



Jeff Zedic
Toronto
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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

Kevin feel you pan.  I think I ended up using a slight coat of lock tight to 
solve the problem on that fill tube on my 1977.  Cannot just torque the *&^% 
out of it to stop it as I recall/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "kevin kraly" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice



I might as well pull the bango fill tube.  Problem was last
time I did this on my 1977 300D I did not seal the filler tube right and 
it

leaked real bad and I had to go back and correct. Operator error


I hate that stupid filler tube design with the washers that need to be
assembled the CORRECT way in order not to leak!  I also experienced this 
on
a '77 300D.  Dennis T had it sitting around as a parts car, and I bought 
it
for parts for my '78.  It had a marginal tranny anyway, and it leaked in 
the

filler tube area.  Trans-X and some control rod adjustments were enough to
save it, so we flogged it for a couple months before I sold it along with
the '78.

Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon looking at an '83 300SD for $1200


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Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[kevin kraly]

I might as well pull the bango fill tube.  Problem was last
time I did this on my 1977 300D I did not seal the filler tube right and it
leaked real bad and I had to go back and correct. Operator error


I hate that stupid filler tube design with the washers that need to be 
assembled the CORRECT way in order not to leak!  I also experienced this on 
a '77 300D.  Dennis T had it sitting around as a parts car, and I bought it 
for parts for my '78.  It had a marginal tranny anyway, and it leaked in the 
filler tube area.  Trans-X and some control rod adjustments were enough to 
save it, so we flogged it for a couple months before I sold it along with 
the '78.


Kevin in Hillsboro Oregon looking at an '83 300SD for $1200 

Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Mathieu J . Cama]

Mike is 100% correct here. I have the literature to document this from  
AMG back in the day. Also, AMG did have a North American operation  
which closed down in the early 1990s. AMG also would sell body panels  
for folks to have installed themselves. WRT the m110, where this  
discussion began, AMG did modify that motor. Literature I have shows  
they were tuning it to 225 hp (DIN) which would translate to roughly  
250hp (SAE) at the crank. Also, if there is further doubt, currently in  
the shop I have one AMG 560sec, SOHC, 6.0L modified by AMG mid-west in  
Chicago and a venerable 560sel 32V Hammer, likely modified out of  
Chicago (research still pending). Both are North American spec machines  
and not grey market examples.


Mathieu


On Nov 2, 2006, at 1:47 PM, Michael Hall wrote:


I disagree - there were cars assembled by AMG, in addition the cars put
together at other places.  AMG certainly put together some cars; they  
raced
them for sure!  a W109 300SE 6.8 is the car that put them on the Map,  
so to

speak.

One of many articles available about it online;

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/9323/w109amg.htm

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


You could buy spare parts, spoilers, wheels side skirts, etc from AMG  
in

the 80's, but AMG was not affiliated with Mercedes at that time and
didn't assemble these cars. You bought the parts and had it done
yourself.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe
and
sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up  
when

I
get home.  No, its not from AllData.

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
version.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5- 
spd_W

0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] 83' 300D vs. 300SD?

[Fred Johnson]

Ditto on what Jeff and others have said about the
differences.  I prefer the 123 though.  I prefer the
smaller size and the feeling of driving the car versus
riding along.  For me the 126 makes a great
vacation/highway cruiser.  In most other situations I
find it a little large and unwieldy and drive the 123,
Civic or Alfa.  Systems wise I prefer the manual
heating/AC controls versus the ACC on the 126.  Power
locks, seats and windows are just something else that
can go wrong.  I am the only person that drives my
vehicles so I've set the seat once. Back and forth
from work, it's the 240D.  700 mile roundtrip to Des
Moines, or up to Wisc somewhere then it's the
300SD...and if I'm really feeling lucky,the Alfa.

Fred Johnson
Chicago
1977 240D
1981 300SD
1991 A/R 164L
1996 Civic

--- Jeff Zedic <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Ahhh, the dfferences are many and varied. The S
> class is a much better
> drive. Quieter and more relaxed, especially on the
> highway!
> 
> Between the two, I'd take the S any day! No
> comparison!! I've had both and
> the 123 is not in the same league as the 126.
> (Obviously)
> 
> 
> 
> Jeff Zedic
> Toronto
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[OK Don]

My 300SDL has AMG (or AMG look-a-like) ground effect parts --

On 11/2/06, LarryT <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

The AMG Classic website link you provided has some great looking
conversions - I especially like the W124 & W126 2 & 4 door sedans they
show - no diesels but cool just the same --



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality

[LarryT]

Jim wrote:<< That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay.  These
things are

likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor >>


Hi Jim,
   Need your expertise one more time --
   I just checked the wiring and GPs by testing the resistance between the
plug at the relay and the engine.  I removed the plug and put the pos lead
in the plug and the neg against the engine block - got a reading of .4 on
all 5 -

   Does that mean my wiring *&* the GPs is good or do I have to remove the
GPs?

   Also - assuming the wiring and GPs are good - I guess that means the
relay is bad?

Thanks again for your help  - and, changing the relay is gonna be a *whole*
lot easier than changing the wires or GP's! ;-)  (if that's what is
indicated as being bad)

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality



Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the
problem is.
To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light
goes out
within 1 sec. of turning the key)


That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay.  These things are
likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to
death before you ever got it.


I got my DMM out and set it to
Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the
threads
that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3  - then I crossed
the
leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a
reading
greater than .0?


Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and
then subtract that from your reading.


How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you
mentioned --


Was it exceedingly expensive?  Then maybe.  It's usually clearly written
on the face somewhere, if it does current at all.


I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for
0A's  - it's from Radio Shack --


Most DMM's have a 10A current scale,  if they have anything at all.
To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a
relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe.  Even my $300 Fluke
only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC).
Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal
fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight.

An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work,
those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get
a good measurement off of.  It would have detected my one bad one that
had 2x normal current, however.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[LarryT]

The AMG Classic website link you provided has some great looking 
conversions - I especially like the W124 & W126 2 & 4 door sedans they 
show - no diesels but cool just the same --


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 4:47 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123



AMG did fiddle with the 110, or perhaps just put on a fancy rocker cover
http://www.mercedes-damien.com/historique/amg%20sous%20menu/AMG%20W123/amg%20w123.htm
http://www.amg-classics.de/6601.html
They even did the 102
http://www.geocities.com/johan01.geo/AMG/
Interesting to note that AMG where not able to get that much more out of 
the

110 until the 5500rpm mark.

Personally I would like the 5 litre version.

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 3:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123



It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
version.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Hendrik Riessen]

AMG did fiddle with the 110, or perhaps just put on a fancy rocker cover
http://www.mercedes-damien.com/historique/amg%20sous%20menu/AMG%20W123/amg%20w123.htm
http://www.amg-classics.de/6601.html
They even did the 102
http://www.geocities.com/johan01.geo/AMG/
Interesting to note that AMG where not able to get that much more out of the 
110 until the 5500rpm mark.


Personally I would like the 5 litre version.

- Original Message - 
From: "Rusty" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "'Mercedes Discussion List'" 
Sent: Friday, November 03, 2006 3:35 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123



It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
version.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] New Audi

[Jeff Zedic]

Somebody, somewhere please tell me why the hell you need those kind of
performance numnbers! Is your peepee THAT small that you need to make up for
it somehow?? When will this kind of lunacy end??

It's absolutely shameful that all the new engine technologies have been used
to create unnecessary "performance". Then we all have a good moan about
idiot drivers thinking they're in F1!

My 124TD has pleanty of get up and go.

I guess it's really a way for the powerless of the world to pretend they're
powerful.sad..


Jeff Zedic
Toronto

Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Mitch Haley]

Rusty wrote:
> 
> It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
> version.

I thought AMG would customize any car you wanted back then.

[MBZ] New Audi

[LarryT]

The latest Car & Draive has a one page blurb about a new Audi SUV with a V12 
Diesel with twin turbo's and intercoolers - giving almost 500hp and 740 
torque!


Will MB offer a competitor anytime soon?

The Audi V12 TDI gets ~20mpg, with the speed limited at 155mph!  It can be 
yours for only $110,000.

The common rail injection operates at 29,000psi thru 12 piezoinjectors -

Cool stuff - I know the new MB GL offers a diesel - but I don't think it's 
that incredible.  I could be wrong though -


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
. 

Re: [MBZ] SCL 600

[LarryT]

Hans wrote:>


Hans,
Are you saying the Riviera had all those problems or the E300D?

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
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.
- Original Message - 
From: "Hans Neureiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] SCL 600



I agree wholeheartedly with you. But the trend to use non serviceable
gizmo's which barely survive the warranty periode is wide spread nowadays.
I have a '97 Riviera, only make my wife ever considered driving until the
E300D came along:
The security system is defeated because of faults.
The memory feature for the seats and mirrors is kaput.
The horn would be on full time if it wasn't for the removed fuse - 
requires

replacement of the airbag module ($ 850 for the part).
The "automatic" lights go out when passing by a mall at night and will not
come back on - dealer prognosis: replace all associated components, like
module, multi-function switch, sensor and what not ($ 600+ in parts).
My '82 300SD does pretty well, considering.

[SNIP] 

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

I guess if I have to get under the 123 chassis to do the converter, and the 
tranny filter I might as well pull the bango fill tube.  Problem was last 
time I did this on my 1977 300D I did not seal the filler tube right and it 
leaked real bad and I had to go back and correct. Operator error


Regards Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "Hans Neureiter" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice



Why not disconnecting the return line at the cooler and hooking up the
sucker there? Still won't drain the converter.

On 11/2/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


That's a good idea, I did not think the tube goes all the way to the
bottom of the pan though (or there was something in the way).  Next time
I take it off I'll have to check.  On the GM tranny, the tube stops
before the bottom, but it points there, and the suck tube can slide all
the way to the bottom.

--R

Anthony Galioto wrote:
> I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove
the
> excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down
to
> the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way
though.  In
> addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
> vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
> Anthony
>
> On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
>> the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned
out
>> all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
>> tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will 
>> go

>> down very far.
>>
>> --R
>>
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>> Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one 
>>> has

>>>
>> used
>>
>>> a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
>>>
>> engine
>>
>>> and remove drain plug?
>>> This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories
or
>>> hints you could share please?
>>>
>>> Regards Tom Scordato
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>>
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality

[LarryT]

Jim wrote:<< That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay.  These 
things are

likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor >>

Hi Jim,
   I just checked the wiring and GPs by testing the resistance between the 
plug at the relay and the engine.  I removed the plug and put the pos lead 
in the plug and the neg against the engine block - got a reading of .4 on 
all 5 -


   Does that mean my wiring *&* the GPs is good or do I have to remove the 
GPs?


   Also - assuming the wiring and GPs are good - I guess that means the 
relay is bad?


Thanks again for your help  - and, changing the relay is gonna be a *whole* 
lot easier than changing the wires or GP's! ;-)  (if that's what is 
indicated as being bad)


Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality



Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the
problem is.
To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light
goes out
within 1 sec. of turning the key)


That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay.  These things are
likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to
death before you ever got it.


I got my DMM out and set it to
Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the
threads
that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3  - then I crossed
the
leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a
reading
greater than .0?


Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and
then subtract that from your reading.


How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you
mentioned --


Was it exceedingly expensive?  Then maybe.  It's usually clearly written
on the face somewhere, if it does current at all.


I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for
0A's  - it's from Radio Shack --


Most DMM's have a 10A current scale,  if they have anything at all.
To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a
relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe.  Even my $300 Fluke
only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC).
Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal
fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight.

An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work,
those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get
a good measurement off of.  It would have detected my one bad one that
had 2x normal current, however.

-- Jim


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No virus found in this incoming message.
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Version: 7.1.409 / Virus Database: 268.13.23/513 - Release Date: 11/2/2006

Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[degcoast]

Yes-I have used it on eyeglasses.  Also jewelers rouge is good on glass.
Dwight Giles
 "Potter wrote: 
> I have heard that you can use toothpaste, though I have not yet tried
> it. I plan to check it out on my granddaughter's Celica soon. If anyone
> comes up with a GOOD solution, please post.
> 
> Tom Potter
> 
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of OK Don
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 7:23 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish
> 
> There was a product that we used to use to polish up aircraft windows
> and the windshield (which are Plexiglas) - I think it was a Maguires
> plastic polish or something like that. It might help.
> The headlight lenses on my wife's '97 Plymouth van are getting quite
> foggy and I was thinking about trying to find some for it. Though I
> suspect that Jim is right ---
> 
> On 11/2/06, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > >> I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses
> are
> > >> not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a
> product
> > >> to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?
> > >
> > > Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
> > > that actually works.
> > > -- Jim
> 
> 
> -- 
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> "The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
> exhausted all the alternatives."
> Sir Winston Churchill
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager
> 
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> 
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Trampas]

I have a friend who is looking to sell his 1983 (I think it is an 83) 500SEL
AMG W126. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 1:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

I disagree - there were cars assembled by AMG, in addition the cars put
together at other places.  AMG certainly put together some cars; they raced
them for sure!  a W109 300SE 6.8 is the car that put them on the Map, so to
speak.

One of many articles available about it online;

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/9323/w109amg.htm

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> You could buy spare parts, spoilers, wheels side skirts, etc from AMG in
> the 80's, but AMG was not affiliated with Mercedes at that time and
> didn't assemble these cars. You bought the parts and had it done
> yourself.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:10 PM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123
>
> I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
> disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe
> and
> sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up when
> I
> get home.  No, its not from AllData.
>
> Mike
>
> On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
> > version.
> >
> > -Original Message-
> > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
> > Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
> > To: Mercedes Discussion List
> > Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
> > 0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> > eBay Item #180046051091
> >
> > Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?
> >
> > Mike
> > ___
> > http://www.okiebenz.com
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> >
> > ___
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> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
> >
> ___
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>
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>
>
> ___
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Michael Hall]

I disagree - there were cars assembled by AMG, in addition the cars put
together at other places.  AMG certainly put together some cars; they raced
them for sure!  a W109 300SE 6.8 is the car that put them on the Map, so to
speak.

One of many articles available about it online;

http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/downs/9323/w109amg.htm

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


You could buy spare parts, spoilers, wheels side skirts, etc from AMG in
the 80's, but AMG was not affiliated with Mercedes at that time and
didn't assemble these cars. You bought the parts and had it done
yourself.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe
and
sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up when
I
get home.  No, its not from AllData.

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
> version.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
> 0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> eBay Item #180046051091
>
> Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?
>
> Mike
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
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[MBZ] W107.special

[Rusty]

BuyMBparts, Inc.
Specials for your W107 Mercedes!
Call us at 1-800-741-5252
To get these GREAT prices
 
Oil Filter Kit (OEM) $4.65
Air Filter (OEM) 1972-1975 $16.50
Air Filter (OEM) 1976-1989 $10.45
Fuel Filter (OEM) 1972-1975 $21.50
Fuel Filter (OEM) 1976-1989 $18.00
Transmission Filter Kit (OEM) 1972-1980 $15.00
Transmission Filter Kit (OEM) 1981-1989 $16.00
Power Steering Filter (Mann) $3.00
 
Prices good through 11/30/2006
Freight Prepaid on orders over $75.00
 
Call Rusty, Tom or Gary today and take advantage of these super
specials.

[MBZ] W201.special

[Rusty]

BuyMBparts, Inc.
Specials for your W201 Mercedes!
Call us at 1-800-741-5252
To get these GREAT prices
 
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) $38.00
Rear Brake Pad Set (Pagid) $21.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1984-1986 $42.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1987-1993 $72.00
Brake Pad Wear Sensor Set (OEM) $3.00
Front Brake Hose Set (OEM) $26.00
Rear Brake Hose Set (OEM) $30.00
 
Prices good through 11/30/2006
Freight Prepaid on orders over $75.00
 
Call Rusty, Tom or Gary today and take advantage of these super
specials.

[MBZ] W126.special

[Rusty]

BuyMBparts, Inc.
Specials for your W126 Mercedes!
Call us at 1-800-741-5252
To get these GREAT prices
 
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) $36.00
Rear Brake Pad Set (Pagid) $27.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo)1981-1985 $70.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1986-1991 $90.00
Rear Brake Disc Set (Balo) $46.00
Brake Pad Wear Sensor Set (OEM) $4.00
Front Wheel Seal Set (OEM) $7.50
Rear Wheel Seal Set (OEM) $16.60
 
Prices good through 11/30/2006
Freight Prepaid on orders over $75.00
 
Call Rusty, Tom or Gary today and take advantage of these super
specials.

[MBZ] W124.special

[Rusty]

BuyMBparts, Inc.
Specials for your W124 Mercedes!
Call us at 1-800-741-5252
To get these GREAT prices
 
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) 1987-1993 $42.00
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) 1994-1995 up to VIN B864307 $73.00
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) 1994-1995 from VIN B864308 $69.00
Rear Brake Pad Set (Pagid) with ASR 1986-1993 $33.00
Rear Brake Pad Set (Pagid) no ASR 1986-1993 $23.00
Rear Brake Pad Set (Pagid) 1994-1995 $30.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1986-1993 $72.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1994-1995 up to VIN B864307 $70.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1994-1995 from VIN B846308 $88.00
Rear Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1986-1993 $42.00
Rear Brake Disc Set (Balo) 1994-1995 $56.00
Brake Pad Wear Sensor Set (OEM) up to VIN B846307 $3.00
Brake Pad Wear sensor Set (OEM) from VIN B846308 $6.00
Front Brake Hose Set (OEM) $26.00
Rear Brake Hose Set (OEM) $30.00
 
Prices good through 11/30/2006
Freight Prepaid on orders over $75.00
 
Call Rusty, Tom or Gary today and take advantage of these super
specials.

[MBZ] W123.special

[Rusty]

BuyMBparts, Inc.
Specials for your W123 Mercedes!
Call us at 1-800-741-5252
To get these GREAT prices
 
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) up to VIN 150314 $27.00
Front Brake Pad Set (Pagid) from VIN 150315 $36.00
Rear Brake Pad Set (Pagid) $27.00
Front Brake Disc Set (Balo) $44.00
Rear Brake Disc set (Balo) $46.00
Brake Pad Wear Sensor Set (OEM) $4.00
Front Wheel Seal Set (OEM) $6.50
Rear Wheel Seal Set (OEM) $16.60
 
Prices good through 11/30/2006
Freight Prepaid on orders over $75.00
 
Call Rusty, Tom or Gary today and take advantage of these super
specials.

Re: [MBZ] SCL 600

[Levi Smith]

Well, I could comment on how "almost perfect" my two 97' Subaru's have been
for about the last 7 years and hundreds of thousands of miles.  But then
they don't have any of the features you listed except for the horn(though
they do work perfectly and have never had a problem).

Levi (:

On 11/2/06, Hans Neureiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I agree wholeheartedly with you. But the trend to use non serviceable
gizmo's which barely survive the warranty periode is wide spread nowadays.
I have a '97 Riviera, only make my wife ever considered driving until the
E300D came along:
The security system is defeated because of faults.
The memory feature for the seats and mirrors is kaput.
The horn would be on full time if it wasn't for the removed fuse -
requires
replacement of the airbag module ($ 850 for the part).
The "automatic" lights go out when passing by a mall at night and will not
come back on - dealer prognosis: replace all associated components, like
module, multi-function switch, sensor and what not ($ 600+ in parts).
My '82 300SD does pretty well, considering.


On 11/2/06, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The old chrysler pushbutton transmission returns.  The first thing MB
got
> from chrysler, the ACC servo, is notorious for being the worst piece of
> crap mb ever put in a car.
>
> No thanks
>
> At 09:10 AM 11/2/2006, you wrote:
> >Check this out. The last two pictures tell me this is good for my
> grandson,
> >not for me.
> >http://www.autolanka.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=862
> >--
> >Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
> >'82 300SD, '95 E300D
> >___
> >http://www.okiebenz.com
> >For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> >For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> >To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> >http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
> Loren Faeth
>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Hans Neureiter]

That makes sense. Good to know.

On 11/2/06, Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Foggy plastic headlights can be fixed by spraying clear coat over them. I
have a friend who is a used car dealer and it is amazing just to see what
it
will do. IT works great on W126 fog lights.

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 9:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

>>> I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are
>>> not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product
>>> to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?
>>
>> Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
>> that actually works.
>> -- Jim
> ---
> Doesn't jewelers rouge give a mirror finish?  Seems like that might
> work if
> you can find it.

There are any number of polishing compounds, including McGuire's,
rouge, toothpaste, etc.  But the usual problem(s) with headlights
are that either 1) the plastic is getting rather pitted with rock
bites, in which case the pits are relatively deep and you're talking
about removing a measurable amount of material, or 2) it's getting
discolored, in which case no amount of polishing will do anything,
it's a change in the bulk material.  If they're glass #2 doesn't
apply, but #1 sure does!

The switch at the front of cars away from hard chrome and (hard)
inexpensive replaceable glass to modular plastic profit centers
was pure evil!

-- Jim


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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] SCL 600

[Hans Neureiter]

I agree wholeheartedly with you. But the trend to use non serviceable
gizmo's which barely survive the warranty periode is wide spread nowadays.
I have a '97 Riviera, only make my wife ever considered driving until the
E300D came along:
The security system is defeated because of faults.
The memory feature for the seats and mirrors is kaput.
The horn would be on full time if it wasn't for the removed fuse - requires
replacement of the airbag module ($ 850 for the part).
The "automatic" lights go out when passing by a mall at night and will not
come back on - dealer prognosis: replace all associated components, like
module, multi-function switch, sensor and what not ($ 600+ in parts).
My '82 300SD does pretty well, considering.


On 11/2/06, Loren Faeth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


The old chrysler pushbutton transmission returns.  The first thing MB got
from chrysler, the ACC servo, is notorious for being the worst piece of
crap mb ever put in a car.

No thanks

At 09:10 AM 11/2/2006, you wrote:
>Check this out. The last two pictures tell me this is good for my
grandson,
>not for me.
>http://www.autolanka.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=862
>--
>Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
>'82 300SD, '95 E300D
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Loren Faeth


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'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Rusty]

You could buy spare parts, spoilers, wheels side skirts, etc from AMG in
the 80's, but AMG was not affiliated with Mercedes at that time and
didn't assemble these cars. You bought the parts and had it done
yourself. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe
and
sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up when
I
get home.  No, its not from AllData.

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
> version.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
> 0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> eBay Item #180046051091
>
> Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?
>
> Mike
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
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> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Michael Hall]

Right, well no one said this car had engine enhancements, but a Euro spec
M110 with a 5 speed should be a fun drive!

I'm pretty sure AMG stuck the 5 liter version of their DOHC "Hammer" motor
in a 123 coupe.  It was probably a one-off, like most AMG offerings of the
time; I saw a picture of one banging around a track, particularly menacing
with its dual exhausts.


Mike
On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Body kits yes. Engines enhancements no.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe
and
sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up when
I
get home.  No, its not from AllData.

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
> version.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
> 0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> eBay Item #180046051091
>
> Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?
>
> Mike
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Rusty]

Body kits yes. Engines enhancements no.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 12:10 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe
and
sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up when
I
get home.  No, its not from AllData.

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
> version.
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
> Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
> To: Mercedes Discussion List
> Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
> 0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> eBay Item #180046051091
>
> Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?
>
> Mike
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>
>
> ___
> http://www.okiebenz.com
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Michael Hall]

I have [or had at some point] a brochure from AMG in pdf format that
disagrees.  It shows offerings of body kits for at least the 123 coupe and
sedan, but nothing about engine conversions.  I'll try to dig it up when I
get home.  No, its not from AllData.

Mike

On 11/2/06, Rusty <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
version.

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality

[LarryT]

you wrote:<
goes out within 1 sec. of turning the key)>

That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay>>


Jim,
Cosider this:  It starts instantly - after I count to 10 before firing it 
up - so it *is* pre-glowing the GPs.  Else it would be hard to start.  When 
it starts, it seems as though 1 cylinder is not firing until ~10 seconds 
after the engine starts - which makes me think it's a GP or the wiring -


It this a good assumption?

If the Relay were at fault - especially the timer - wouldn;t it be hard to 
start (or not start at all) if the GPs were not pre-glowing?


One other observation - after the car starts while I'm keeping the revs at 
~1000 maybe 45 seconds after it starts, I noticed the interior lights get 
brighter - I take this to mean the GPs have "turned-off".


Is this likely?

as always - TIA!

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.
- Original Message - 
From: "Jim Cathey" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 11:33 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality



Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the
problem is.
To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light
goes out
within 1 sec. of turning the key)


That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay.  These things are
likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to
death before you ever got it.


I got my DMM out and set it to
Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the
threads
that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3  - then I crossed
the
leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a
reading
greater than .0?


Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and
then subtract that from your reading.


How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you
mentioned --


Was it exceedingly expensive?  Then maybe.  It's usually clearly written
on the face somewhere, if it does current at all.


I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for
0A's  - it's from Radio Shack --


Most DMM's have a 10A current scale,  if they have anything at all.
To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a
relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe.  Even my $300 Fluke
only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC).
Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal
fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight.

An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work,
those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get
a good measurement off of.  It would have detected my one bad one that
had 2x normal current, however.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Rick Knoble]

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?


Nice wheels, what are they? I don't see many styling cues Euro lights 
and perhaps lower body cladding and a slight chin spoiler? Very understated. 
Would look good on my coupe.

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT 

Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Rusty]

It's rare alright. They never made a 280E AMG, it's just a homemade
version. 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Michael Hall
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 11:47 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W
0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike
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Re: [MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Levi Smith]

I'm still waiting for someone to show me an AMG W123 diesel...  (:

Levi

On 11/2/06, Michael Hall <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:



http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike
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[MBZ] Rare AMG W123

[Michael Hall]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1984-280E-AMG-Rare-black-imported-5-spd_W0QQitemZ180046051091QQihZ008QQcategoryZ6329QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

eBay Item #180046051091

Am I the only one who thinks this an awesome car?

Mike

Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Trampas]

Foggy plastic headlights can be fixed by spraying clear coat over them. I
have a friend who is a used car dealer and it is amazing just to see what it
will do. IT works great on W126 fog lights. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 9:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

>>> I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are
>>> not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product
>>> to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?
>>
>> Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
>> that actually works.
>> -- Jim
> ---
> Doesn't jewelers rouge give a mirror finish?  Seems like that might 
> work if
> you can find it.

There are any number of polishing compounds, including McGuire's,
rouge, toothpaste, etc.  But the usual problem(s) with headlights
are that either 1) the plastic is getting rather pitted with rock
bites, in which case the pits are relatively deep and you're talking
about removing a measurable amount of material, or 2) it's getting
discolored, in which case no amount of polishing will do anything,
it's a change in the bulk material.  If they're glass #2 doesn't
apply, but #1 sure does!

The switch at the front of cars away from hard chrome and (hard)
inexpensive replaceable glass to modular plastic profit centers
was pure evil!

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] SCL 600

[Loren Faeth]

The old chrysler pushbutton transmission returns.  The first thing MB got 
from chrysler, the ACC servo, is notorious for being the worst piece of 
crap mb ever put in a car.


No thanks

At 09:10 AM 11/2/2006, you wrote:

Check this out. The last two pictures tell me this is good for my grandson,
not for me.
http://www.autolanka.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=862
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Loren Faeth 

Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Loren Faeth]

Last year i had to buy a NEW$$$ right headlight for my SDL after the 
nighttime pheasant attack.  After theat, the right headlight is noticeably 
brighter than the left.
Moral of the story:  even glass headlights loose effectiveness over 18-20 
years.


The fix:  Cathey's original statement.  Only dollar bills applied 
generously, can clear the headlights.


At 08:23 AM 11/2/2006, you wrote:

>>> I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are
>>> not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product
>>> to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?
>>
>> Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
>> that actually works.
>> -- Jim
> ---
> Doesn't jewelers rouge give a mirror finish?  Seems like that might
> work if
> you can find it.

There are any number of polishing compounds, including McGuire's,
rouge, toothpaste, etc.  But the usual problem(s) with headlights
are that either 1) the plastic is getting rather pitted with rock
bites, in which case the pits are relatively deep and you're talking
about removing a measurable amount of material, or 2) it's getting
discolored, in which case no amount of polishing will do anything,
it's a change in the bulk material.  If they're glass #2 doesn't
apply, but #1 sure does!

The switch at the front of cars away from hard chrome and (hard)
inexpensive replaceable glass to modular plastic profit centers
was pure evil!

-- Jim


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Loren Faeth  

[MBZ] SCL 600

[Hans Neureiter]

Check this out. The last two pictures tell me this is good for my grandson,
not for me.
http://www.autolanka.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=862
--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Hans Neureiter]

Why not disconnecting the return line at the cooler and hooking up the
sucker there? Still won't drain the converter.

On 11/2/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


That's a good idea, I did not think the tube goes all the way to the
bottom of the pan though (or there was something in the way).  Next time
I take it off I'll have to check.  On the GM tranny, the tube stops
before the bottom, but it points there, and the suck tube can slide all
the way to the bottom.

--R

Anthony Galioto wrote:
> I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove
the
> excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down
to
> the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way
though.  In
> addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
> vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
> Anthony
>
> On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>> I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
>> the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned
out
>> all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
>> tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go
>> down very far.
>>
>> --R
>>
>> [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
>>
>>> Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has
>>>
>> used
>>
>>> a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
>>>
>> engine
>>
>>> and remove drain plug?
>>> This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories
or
>>> hints you could share please?
>>>
>>> Regards Tom Scordato
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> ___
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>>
>>
>
>
>
>
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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] 110 Chassis 200D Questions

[Loren Faeth]

You are better to DIY over a dealer, because you already know more about 
doing it than anyone at a dealer.  It is a good job for a nice 
Saturday.  If you buy a CA car, make sure they check the antifreeze and 
bring it up to spec before it is shipped or before you take off driving 
it.  Otherwise your prize could end up with a cracked block right off.


Pulling the heater in a 110/111 is not that bad.  it is much more 
straightforward than trying to do it on a car with factory air.  Oh, if the 
200D has a/c you will need to unbolt the underdash unit and lay it aside 
for the job.  Again, not hard.



At 05:30 AM 11/2/2006, you wrote:

Loren thanks a million.  A person in CA who is trying to sell me a  $7K
200D car said oh it takes the dexterity of a gymnast like Olga Korbit to do
these jobs.  You have put an air of DIY realism I can live with.

Regards Tom

Regards
- Original Message -
From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 110 Chassis 200D Questions


>
>
> If the wiper motor is cycling, and the wipers don't move, most likely you
> only need to tighten the nut on the wiper motor shaft.  An easy job from
> under the dash behind the glove box.  If the paper under dash liner is
> still there, you will need to remove and replace it.
>
> Check to be sure the wipers move freely before tightening it down. If one
> or both of the wipers are stiff, then try lubing the shafts.  to do this,
> remove the wiper arms and then remove the chrome cover.  If one of the
> shafts are frozen, you have a bigger problem.  I had to remove the whole
> wiper transmission and do some surgery to get one of them going.  NOT
> fun... It is easier to change the blower motor.
>
> Heater valves:  remove the under dash cover, if it is still there.  Drain
> the radiator.  If you only need to work on the valves, you are ok to
> proceed.
>
> BUT there are 2 short pieces of hose between the hot water manifold in
> front of the firewall, and the heater valves.  If these have not been
> changed in 10 years or so, you want to change them now, before they
> leak!  To do this, unhook the hoses going to the heater, 2 from the
> manifold and 1 for the return.  Un hook the "moose antlers"  (defroster
> ducts) then remove the control cables from the heater, being careful to
> note where everything goes.  Take out the  bolt holding the heater to the
> dash, up on top, near the rim of the blower fan.  You can then remove the
> whole heater/fan unit, replace/repair/lube the fan motor, replace the 2
> short hoses and work on the heater valves in a comfortable position.
>
> Heater valves:  Easy!  take the screw out, remove the lever plate and the
> retainer plate.  Put the screw back in part way, and remove the core,
> being
> careful to mark which side of the square lug that holds the lever and
> retainer is UP.  Once you have the cores out, clean them and go to your
> local hardware store and get new orings (4) unless you had the foresight
> to
> order them from Rusty.  While there, get some water pump grease or
> waterproof grease.  Install the orings, grease the barrels and reinstall.
>
> If you  lubed the fan motor and replaced the hoses, you should be good for
> another 10-20 years.
>
> Good time to flush the cooling system while you are there, then refill the
> radiator.
>
> Happy klattering
>
> At 06:10 PM 11/1/2006, you wrote:
>>110 Chassis 200D Questions
>>
>>Car is a 1968 200D Fin back.  Any idea what is involved in fixing the
>>windshield wiper "transmission" and fixing the heater vents and control
>>valves?
>>
>>Need estimate on labor hours and complexity as well as approx $ parts if
>>A)
>>I did my self, B) MB did it.
>>
>>Regards Tom
>>
>>1979 240D
>>
>>Courting other vehicles
>>
>>
>>
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>
> Loren Faeth
>
>
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Loren Faeth 

Re: [MBZ] What did I do ?

[Hans Neureiter]

Thanks Jim.
Finally I read the test procedure correct. On the SML they show doing the
test at the control valve. I mixed the lines coming and going up though, so
it didn't make good sense. Vacuum should be @ 350mb at idle w/ throttle off,
and 0 at full throttle.
I was concerned that the ADA may be position critical since it had a paint
mark on the swivel nut. But than, it could not affect the tranny what so
ever.

On 11/2/06, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


> Now my wife complains the car shifts very harsh and makes a big clunk
> doing
> so. I don't think I knocked the trans. modulator vac. line off because
> when
> I tried it I noticed it gets a little smoother when easing off the
> pedal.

You affected it somehow.  The vacuum valve on the IP is intended to
roughly simulate the effect of gasser manifold vacuum (with throttle)
for feeding to the tranny.  It's adjustable over a range, too.

> Can I test the line without removing the intake crossover ? If I put a
> Mityvac on the modulator end of the line, shouldn't it hold vacuum at
> throttle off ?

Yes.  But make sure you're on the tranny line and not the one that
goes first to the IP, it has a controlled (and
throttle-position-sensitive)
bleed on it.

You may have knocked a line off elsewhere that due to the natural
restrictions of small-diameter line has resulted in a lessening of
the vacuum supply in the car, but not enough to disable anything.
That would throw the calibration of the IP dingus off.

-- Jim


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Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Rich Thomas]

That's a good idea, I did not think the tube goes all the way to the 
bottom of the pan though (or there was something in the way).  Next time 
I take it off I'll have to check.  On the GM tranny, the tube stops 
before the bottom, but it points there, and the suck tube can slide all 
the way to the bottom.


--R

Anthony Galioto wrote:

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  In
addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
  

I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned out
all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go
down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:


Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has
  

used


a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
  

engine


and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or
hints you could share please?

Regards Tom Scordato




  

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Re: [MBZ] What did I do ?

[Jim Cathey]

Now my wife complains the car shifts very harsh and makes a big clunk 
doing
so. I don't think I knocked the trans. modulator vac. line off because 
when
I tried it I noticed it gets a little smoother when easing off the 
pedal.


You affected it somehow.  The vacuum valve on the IP is intended to
roughly simulate the effect of gasser manifold vacuum (with throttle)
for feeding to the tranny.  It's adjustable over a range, too.


Can I test the line without removing the intake crossover ? If I put a
Mityvac on the modulator end of the line, shouldn't it hold vacuum at
throttle off ?


Yes.  But make sure you're on the tranny line and not the one that
goes first to the IP, it has a controlled (and 
throttle-position-sensitive)

bleed on it.

You may have knocked a line off elsewhere that due to the natural
restrictions of small-diameter line has resulted in a lessening of
the vacuum supply in the car, but not enough to disable anything.
That would throw the calibration of the IP dingus off.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Jim Cathey]

I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are
not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product
to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?


Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
that actually works.
-- Jim

---
Doesn't jewelers rouge give a mirror finish?  Seems like that might 
work if

you can find it.


There are any number of polishing compounds, including McGuire's,
rouge, toothpaste, etc.  But the usual problem(s) with headlights
are that either 1) the plastic is getting rather pitted with rock
bites, in which case the pits are relatively deep and you're talking
about removing a measurable amount of material, or 2) it's getting
discolored, in which case no amount of polishing will do anything,
it's a change in the bulk material.  If they're glass #2 doesn't
apply, but #1 sure does!

The switch at the front of cars away from hard chrome and (hard)
inexpensive replaceable glass to modular plastic profit centers
was pure evil!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Hans Neureiter]

A friend did this on his motorcycle windshield. It worked, but didn't last.

On 11/2/06, Potter, Tom E <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I have heard that you can use toothpaste, though I have not yet tried
it. I plan to check it out on my granddaughter's Celica soon. If anyone
comes up with a GOOD solution, please post.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 7:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

There was a product that we used to use to polish up aircraft windows
and the windshield (which are Plexiglas) - I think it was a Maguires
plastic polish or something like that. It might help.
The headlight lenses on my wife's '97 Plymouth van are getting quite
foggy and I was thinking about trying to find some for it. Though I
suspect that Jim is right ---

On 11/2/06, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses
are
> >> not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a
product
> >> to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?
> >
> > Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
> > that actually works.
> > -- Jim


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

[MBZ] What did I do ?

[Hans Neureiter]

Last week I changed the vac. fuel shut-off on my E300D. In order to do this
I had to remove the ADA pot on the IP.
Now my wife complains the car shifts very harsh and makes a big clunk doing
so. I don't think I knocked the trans. modulator vac. line off because when
I tried it I noticed it gets a little smoother when easing off the pedal.
Can I test the line without removing the intake crossover ? If I put a
Mityvac on the modulator end of the line, shouldn't it hold vacuum at
throttle off ?

--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D

Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Potter, Tom E]

I have heard that you can use toothpaste, though I have not yet tried
it. I plan to check it out on my granddaughter's Celica soon. If anyone
comes up with a GOOD solution, please post.

Tom Potter

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
[mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of OK Don
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 7:23 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

There was a product that we used to use to polish up aircraft windows
and the windshield (which are Plexiglas) - I think it was a Maguires
plastic polish or something like that. It might help.
The headlight lenses on my wife's '97 Plymouth van are getting quite
foggy and I was thinking about trying to find some for it. Though I
suspect that Jim is right ---

On 11/2/06, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >> I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses
are
> >> not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a
product
> >> to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?
> >
> > Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
> > that actually works.
> > -- Jim


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[OK Don]

There was a product that we used to use to polish up aircraft windows
and the windshield (which are Plexiglas) - I think it was a Maguires
plastic polish or something like that. It might help.
The headlight lenses on my wife's '97 Plymouth van are getting quite
foggy and I was thinking about trying to find some for it. Though I
suspect that Jim is right ---

On 11/2/06, archer <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>> I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are
>> not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product
>> to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?
>
> Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
> that actually works.
> -- Jim



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

Thanks Redghost ak Anthony!/Tom
- Original Message - 
From: "Redghost" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2006 1:42 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice


I used the sucker in the e300d with no trouble.  Also suck it out of 
the manual trans in Gump.  Do remove and replace the filter on AT if 
you are going to drain the TC.  I did not bother when just changing out 
the fluid without filter.



On Nov 1, 2006, at 4:35 PM, Anthony Galioto wrote:

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove 
the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes 
down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  
In

addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned 
out

all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will 
go

down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one 
has

used

a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate

engine

and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories 
or

hints you could share please?

Regards Tom Scordato







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--
Anthony
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz


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Re: [MBZ] 110 Chassis 200D Questions

[ts]

Loren thanks a million.  A person in CA who is trying to sell me a  $7K 
200D car said oh it takes the dexterity of a gymnast like Olga Korbit to do 
these jobs.  You have put an air of DIY realism I can live with.


Regards Tom

Regards
- Original Message - 
From: "Loren Faeth" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" 
Sent: Wednesday, November 01, 2006 7:48 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 110 Chassis 200D Questions





If the wiper motor is cycling, and the wipers don't move, most likely you
only need to tighten the nut on the wiper motor shaft.  An easy job from
under the dash behind the glove box.  If the paper under dash liner is
still there, you will need to remove and replace it.

Check to be sure the wipers move freely before tightening it down. If one
or both of the wipers are stiff, then try lubing the shafts.  to do this,
remove the wiper arms and then remove the chrome cover.  If one of the
shafts are frozen, you have a bigger problem.  I had to remove the whole
wiper transmission and do some surgery to get one of them going.  NOT
fun... It is easier to change the blower motor.

Heater valves:  remove the under dash cover, if it is still there.  Drain
the radiator.  If you only need to work on the valves, you are ok to 
proceed.


BUT there are 2 short pieces of hose between the hot water manifold in
front of the firewall, and the heater valves.  If these have not been
changed in 10 years or so, you want to change them now, before they
leak!  To do this, unhook the hoses going to the heater, 2 from the
manifold and 1 for the return.  Un hook the "moose antlers"  (defroster
ducts) then remove the control cables from the heater, being careful to
note where everything goes.  Take out the  bolt holding the heater to the
dash, up on top, near the rim of the blower fan.  You can then remove the
whole heater/fan unit, replace/repair/lube the fan motor, replace the 2
short hoses and work on the heater valves in a comfortable position.

Heater valves:  Easy!  take the screw out, remove the lever plate and the
retainer plate.  Put the screw back in part way, and remove the core, 
being

careful to mark which side of the square lug that holds the lever and
retainer is UP.  Once you have the cores out, clean them and go to your
local hardware store and get new orings (4) unless you had the foresight 
to

order them from Rusty.  While there, get some water pump grease or
waterproof grease.  Install the orings, grease the barrels and reinstall.

If you  lubed the fan motor and replaced the hoses, you should be good for
another 10-20 years.

Good time to flush the cooling system while you are there, then refill the
radiator.

Happy klattering

At 06:10 PM 11/1/2006, you wrote:

110 Chassis 200D Questions

Car is a 1968 200D Fin back.  Any idea what is involved in fixing the
windshield wiper "transmission" and fixing the heater vents and control
valves?

Need estimate on labor hours and complexity as well as approx $ parts if 
A)

I did my self, B) MB did it.

Regards Tom

1979 240D

Courting other vehicles



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Loren Faeth


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Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[archer]

I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are
not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product
to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?


Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
that actually works.
-- Jim

---
Doesn't jewelers rouge give a mirror finish?  Seems like that might work if 
you can find it.
Gerry 

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Redghost]

I used the sucker in the e300d with no trouble.  Also suck it out of 
the manual trans in Gump.  Do remove and replace the filter on AT if 
you are going to drain the TC.  I did not bother when just changing out 
the fluid without filter.



On Nov 1, 2006, at 4:35 PM, Anthony Galioto wrote:

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove 
the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes 
down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  
In

addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned 
out

all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will 
go

down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one 
has

used

a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate

engine

and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories 
or

hints you could share please?

Regards Tom Scordato







___
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--
Anthony
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] 110 Chassis 200D Questions

[Redghost]

Do it yourself because it will cost a few grand at the dealer just for 
labor.  I suspect there is some level of dash removal involved and the 
MB people will not have any clue as to something as old as your car.



On Nov 1, 2006, at 4:10 PM, <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


110 Chassis 200D Questions

Car is a 1968 200D Fin back.  Any idea what is involved in fixing the
windshield wiper "transmission" and fixing the heater vents and control
valves?

Need estimate on labor hours and complexity as well as approx $ parts 
if A)

I did my self, B) MB did it.

Regards Tom

1979 240D

Courting other vehicles



___
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] FW: Ultra Low sulfur Diesel

[Redghost]

Great for fermenting home brew in as well

On Nov 1, 2006, at 9:54 AM, ernest breakfield wrote:


a sort of jug; generally seen around Biodiesel circles in  5 Gal
varieties.

http://www.metacrawler.com/info.metac/search/web/carboy/1/-/1/-/-/-/ 
1/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/- 
/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/-/417/top/-/-/-/1


as for mixing, BioD splash mixes with #2 very easily, and very  
well.



cheers!
e


Zoltan Finks wrote:


Ernest, what's a carboy container?

Brian

Ernest wrote:

if you're concerned about lubricity of ULSD (which i wouldn't be with
our cars), buy a carboy container or 2 to bring home some BioD in.



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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] Nebraska Gump

[Redghost]

Just about, but this one has more rust than Gump.  Nice car if it  
really does run



On Oct 31, 2006, at 6:25 AM, Rick Knoble wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1969-MERCEDES-BENZ-220D- 
SEDAN_W0QQitemZ300041832613QQihZ020QQcategoryZ6335QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrd 
Z1QQcmdZViewItem


Looks a little rusty..

Rick Knoble
'85 300 CD
'87 190 DT
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--
Clay
Seattle Bioburner

1972 220D - Gump
1995 E300D - Cleo
1987 300SDL - POS - DOA
The FSM would drive a Diesel Benz

Re: [MBZ] '79 Euro-spec W107 heat issue

[OK Don]

At last - someone who knows what he's talking about!



If this '79 is like our US-issue '76, the manual system has a
vacuum-controlled water valve.  When either heat lever is lifted
off of MIN, a vacuum bleed valve is opened up resulting in the
water valve actuator being released, letting hot water go through
(both sides) of the heater core.  Air blend flaps are then used to
modulate the temperatures on both sides.

> The local indie quoted him ~$600 to
> fix the problem, which seems to be a bit ridiculous if it's just a
> mono-valve.  Any thoughts?

I'd likely charge more, if the problem requires new vacuum valves
or anything like that, because the console has to come out.  (Which
requires the seats to come out first, etc.)

With luck it's just a broken water valve dingus, which is trivial
to replace under the hood.  Oh, and the adjustment levers have
tightening screws on their pivots, IIRC, if they come loose the
lever moves without moving the air blend flaps, and I suppose the
vacuum valve too.  That's just a nut to tighten, it may be that
this can be done from the front with the console in place.  (You'll
have to remove the HVAC face panel, of course.)

-- Jim


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality

[Luther Gulseth]

30-0-30 ammeter.

On Wed, 01 Nov 2006 22:33:54 -0600, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

>> Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the
>> problem is.
>> To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light
>> goes out
>> within 1 sec. of turning the key)
>
> That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay.  These things are
> likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to
> death before you ever got it.
>
>> I got my DMM out and set it to
>> Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the
>> threads
>> that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3  - then I crossed
>> the
>> leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a
>> reading
>> greater than .0?
>
> Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and
> then subtract that from your reading.
>
>> How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you
>> mentioned --
>
> Was it exceedingly expensive?  Then maybe.  It's usually clearly written
> on the face somewhere, if it does current at all.
>
>> I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for
>> 0A's  - it's from Radio Shack --
>
> Most DMM's have a 10A current scale,  if they have anything at all.
> To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a
> relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe.  Even my $300 Fluke
> only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC).
> Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal
> fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight.
>
> An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work,
> those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get
> a good measurement off of.  It would have detected my one bad one that
> had 2x normal current, however.
>
> -- Jim
>


-- 
Luther   KB5QHUAlma, Ark
'87 300SDL (270,491 mi) head case?
'83 300SD (241 kmi)
'82 300CD (162 kmi)
'82 300D  (74 kmi) needs MAJOR engine work
'85 300D (280,176) parts car

Re: [MBZ] '79 Euro-spec W107 heat issue

[Jim Cathey]

Spoke with a co-worker yesterday about his '79 Euro-spec W107.  It has 
A/C,
but manual climate controls.  He says his driver side heat is always 
on,
which I thought was a standard default for a failed mono-valve, but I 
don't

know if the manuals come with those.


If this '79 is like our US-issue '76, the manual system has a
vacuum-controlled water valve.  When either heat lever is lifted
off of MIN, a vacuum bleed valve is opened up resulting in the
water valve actuator being released, letting hot water go through
(both sides) of the heater core.  Air blend flaps are then used to
modulate the temperatures on both sides.


The local indie quoted him ~$600 to
fix the problem, which seems to be a bit ridiculous if it's just a
mono-valve.  Any thoughts?


I'd likely charge more, if the problem requires new vacuum valves
or anything like that, because the console has to come out.  (Which
requires the seats to come out first, etc.)

With luck it's just a broken water valve dingus, which is trivial
to replace under the hood.  Oh, and the adjustment levers have
tightening screws on their pivots, IIRC, if they come loose the
lever moves without moving the air blend flaps, and I suppose the
vacuum valve too.  That's just a nut to tighten, it may be that
this can be done from the front with the console in place.  (You'll
have to remove the HVAC face panel, of course.)

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Jim Cathey]

I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are
not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product
to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?


Dollar bills, applied in quantity, seem to be about the only thing
that actually works.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality

[Jim Cathey]

Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the 
problem is.
To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light 
goes out

within 1 sec. of turning the key)


That sounds like a problem internal to the GP relay.  These things are
likely NOS, not new-new, and the timing capacitor could have aged to
death before you ever got it.


I got my DMM out and set it to
Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the 
threads
that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3  - then I crossed 
the
leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a 
reading

greater than .0?


Yes, you just cross the leads to find out what its idea of zero is, and
then subtract that from your reading.

How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you 
mentioned --


Was it exceedingly expensive?  Then maybe.  It's usually clearly written
on the face somewhere, if it does current at all.


I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for
0A's  - it's from Radio Shack --


Most DMM's have a 10A current scale,  if they have anything at all.
To measure more requires a shunt, rarely seen these days, or a
relatively expensive clamp-on DC ammeter probe.  Even my $300 Fluke
only goes to 10A without the 400A external probe (another $200 IIRC).
Attempts to measure more than 10A results in blowing its internal
fuse, an item that costs more than an entire DMM from Harbor Freight.

An old-fashioned charging gauge from the auto parts store could work,
those are usually 60A over a half-scale, so are a bit too crude to get
a good measurement off of.  It would have detected my one bad one that
had 2x normal current, however.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] '79 Euro-spec W107 heat issue

[OK Don]

Could be vacuum operated - I've never seen a manual heat system in a 107.
His is a '79 - so it would use the old servo. Yes - the later ones use
the mono valve (after '83?).

On 11/1/06, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

Oh, I wasn't sure if the later models all used a mono-valve, whether ACC or
not.   So, $600 seems a tad high to fix what shouldn't be all that much
work, eh?

Glenn Brown sent me a nifty pic of the heater valve in his '76 W107, but
it's obviously vacuum operated, with no cables at all.



--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

Re: [MBZ] Mythbusters sub-woofer episode

[Michael Hall]

Yeah, but I watched the episode and back calculated, by the resonant
frequency attained at the peak in the power band as it corresponded with the
highest amplitude wave pattern generated by the turbo and factoring an
appropriate depreciative value of the transmission [which I calculated
during the episode in which they used veggie oil as a fuel] that the ACTUAL
HP figure that THAT PARTICULAR engine is ~120hp.

EAT IT UP,
Mike

On 11/1/06, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


no, those are 121hp, you are wrong :)

Michael Hall wrote:

> More specifically, it was was 81-85 300SD with the turbo 617 with ~120hp
>

--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
  87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
  84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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Re: [MBZ] OT, banking

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

no

LT Don wrote:


I spent two years doing internal-customer computer support for Barnett Bank
out of a cubicle in Jacksonville FL. Does that count?

On 10/31/06, Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:


Anybody here in the banking business or know about it?  If so, email me
offlist ([EMAIL PROTECTED]), I have some technical questions about the
way checks are processed these days (ach etc).
___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] OT, banking

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

N, really?  BTW, thanks for passing along to Ms B

Frank Pembleton wrote:


Here's the deal.
BEFORE THE CHECK YOU WRITE IS CASHED, YOU MUST HAVE THE MONEY IN YOUR
ACCOUNT.

 
_

Frank Pembleton other half of 15 year bank manager; former transporter of
checks via the Federal Reserve Intermodal Transportation System

Manchester, MO
KLEB FOR PREZ!!
-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader
Sent: Tuesday, October 31, 2006 5:57 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] OT, banking

Anybody here in the banking business or know about it?  If so, email me
offlist ([EMAIL PROTECTED]), I have some technical questions about the way
checks are processed these days (ach etc).



___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com





--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] SDL motor mounts.

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

that is correct.  Its a very easy job though, plenty of room with the 603

Loren Faeth wrote:



I finally ordered new mounts for my SDL, and went out to size up the 
job.  I quickly concluded it ain't as simple as on the 110,111,108,123 
cars.  I could do the 200D mounts from on top in a few minutes with a 
bottle jack under the oil pan.  I have gathered that I should put the SDL 
front up on ramps, then use a floor jack to support the engine, and that 
the big bolts have to be taken out from below, and the small allen bolts 
from above/below as the case may be.


Can anyone who has BTDT give any pointers, or tell me any gotchas?  How 
long should it take?  Being cold weather now, I am not looking forward to 
crawling under the car for what I used to be able to do topside.


Loren
86 SDL, 400k on 14 head 



___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] Mythbusters sub-woofer episode

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

no, those are 121hp, you are wrong :)

Michael Hall wrote:


More specifically, it was was 81-85 300SD with the turbo 617 with ~120hp



--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 91 300D 2.5 Turbo, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL,
 87 300SDL #2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro, 84 190D 2.2,
 84 190D 2.2 #2, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] '79 Euro-spec W107 heat issue

[Zeitgeist]

Oh, I wasn't sure if the later models all used a mono-valve, whether ACC or
not.   So, $600 seems a tad high to fix what shouldn't be all that much
work, eh?

Glenn Brown sent me a nifty pic of the heater valve in his '76 W107, but
it's obviously vacuum operated, with no cables at all.


On 11/1/06, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Right! It doesn't have ACC - and if it did, it would have the dreaded
servo (like mine does). I think the possibilities are a bad valve
(manual - like a 240D), broken cable controlling the valve, can't
think of much else in a manual heater system. Since he has heat all
the time, water is flowing -



Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler/propane injection #22 (219k)
'84 300D (218k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K)
http://users.zhonka.net/zeitgeist/Misc/IMG_0171.JPG

Re: [MBZ] '79 Euro-spec W107 heat issue

[OK Don]

Right! It doesn't have ACC - and if it did, it would have the dreaded
servo (like mine does). I think the possibilities are a bad valve
(manual - like a 240D), broken cable controlling the valve, can't
think of much else in a manual heater system. Since he has heat all
the time, water is flowing -

On 11/1/06, Zeitgeist <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

So, you're saying this vehicle doesn't have a mono-valve, then?

On 11/1/06, andrew strasfogel <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> could be that the cable is broken between the lever and the valve.
>
>
Casey




--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
"The Americans will always do the right thing... after they've
exhausted all the alternatives."
Sir Winston Churchill
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

[MBZ] these people are on crack

[Kaleb C. Striplin, Cox Auto Trader]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-E-Class-190D-2-2-1984-Mercedes-Benz-190D-2-2-5-Speed-Diesel-RARE_W0QQitemZ230045584693QQihZ013QQcategoryZ6335QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] 110 Chassis 200D Questions
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If the wiper motor is cycling, and the wipers don't move, most likely you
only need to tighten the nut on the wiper motor shaft.  An easy job from
under the dash behind the glove box.  If the paper under dash liner is
still there, you will need to remove and replace it.

Check to be sure the wipers move freely before tightening it down. If one
or both of the wipers are stiff, then try lubing the shafts.  to do this,
remove the wiper arms and then remove the chrome cover.  If one of the
shafts are frozen, you have a bigger problem.  I had to remove the whole
wiper transmission and do some surgery to get one of them going.  NOT
fun... It is easier to change the blower motor.

Heater valves:  remove the under dash cover, if it is still there.  Drain
the radiator.  If you only need to work on the valves, you are ok to proceed.

BUT there are 2 short pieces of hose between the hot water manifold in
front of the firewall, and the heater valves.  If these have not been
changed in 10 years or so, you want to change them now, before they
leak!  To do this, unhook the hoses going to the heater, 2 from the
manifold and 1 for the return.  Un hook the "moose antlers"  (defroster
ducts) then remove the control cables from the heater, being careful to
note where everything goes.  Take out the  bolt holding the heater to the
dash, up on top, near the rim of the blower fan.  You can then remove the
whole heater/fan unit, replace/repair/lube the fan motor, replace the 2
short hoses and work on the heater valves in a comfortable position.

Heater valves:  Easy!  take the screw out, remove the lever plate and the
retainer plate.  Put the screw back in part way, and remove the core, being
careful to mark which side of the square lug that holds the lever and
retainer is UP.  Once you have the cores out, clean them and go to your
local hardware store and get new orings (4) unless you had the foresight to
order them from Rusty.  While there, get some water pump grease or
waterproof grease.  Install the orings, grease the barrels and reinstall.

If you  lubed the fan motor and replaced the hoses, you should be good for
another 10-20 years.

Good time to flush the cooling system while you are there, then refill the
radiator.

Happy klattering

At 06:10 PM 11/1/2006, you wrote:
>110 Chassis 200D Questions
>
>Car is a 1968 200D Fin back.  Any idea what is involved in fixing the
>windshield wiper "transmission" and fixing the heater vents and control
>valves?
>
>Need estimate on labor hours and complexity as well as approx $ parts if A)
>I did my self, B) MB did it.
>
>Regards Tom
>
>1979 240D
>
>Courting other vehicles
>
>
>
>___
>http://www.okiebenz.com
>For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
>For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
>To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Loren Faeth

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Anthony Galioto]

I used an old washing machine  hose over the dip stick tube to  remove the
excess fluid, good fit.  It worked very good because the tube goes down to
the pan.  I don't think you will drain the converter this way though.  In
addition you should change the filter.  I was a little worried that the
vacumn might disturb some small parts in the tranny.
Anthony

On 11/1/06, Rich Thomas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned out
all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go
down very far.

--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
> Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has
used
> a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate
engine
> and remove drain plug?
> This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or
> hints you could share please?
>
> Regards Tom Scordato
>
>
>
>


___
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--
Anthony

Re: [MBZ] GP Infant Mortality

[LarryT]

Hi Jim,
You wrote:>

Got my 2 new GPs today so tomorow I'll try to find out what the problem is. 
To refresh memory - I have new GPs and new GP relay - preglow light goes out 
within 1 sec. of turning the key)   I got my DMM out and set it to 
Resistance - using a new GP I touched the threads at the top and the threads 
that contact the cylinder head - got a reading of .3  - then I crossed the 
leads and the reading was .0 - is it OK that my DMM doesn't have a reading 
greater than .0?


How do I tell if my DMM will measure current in the range you mentioned --  
I'm thinking I need at least a 30A max? But I think my DMM is good for 
0A's  - it's from Radio Shack --


Oh well, tomorrrow I'll check the GPs and see if any are much different from 
each other -


Thanks -

Larry T (67 MGB, 74 911, 78 240D, 91 300D)
www.youroil.net for Oil Analysis and Weber Parts
Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
PORSCHE POSTERS!  youroil.net
Weber Carb Info http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
Porsche Road Test http://members.rennlist.com/roadtest/
.[SNIP] 

Re: [MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[Rich Thomas]

I used the $2 sucker to get the fluid out of my old Blazer (700R4) as 
the fill tube has a straight shot to the bottom of the pan.  Cleaned out 
all but a little bit.  I don't think you can do that with the 123 
tranny, I vaguely recall trying and I don't think the suck hose will go 
down very far.


--R

[EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has used 
a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate engine 
and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or 
hints you could share please?


Regards Tom Scordato 




  

[MBZ] Semi O.T. Lens Polish

[Frederick W Moir]

Hi, Alles.
I was looking at my daughter's Toyota and noticed that the lenses are 
not as clear as they were, so, I was wondering if there is a product 
to polish/clear plastic head lamp lenses?

Gapin idjit wantz 2 no.
Fred Moir
Lynn MA
Dieselitis maximus

[MBZ] 110 Chassis 200D Questions

[ts]

110 Chassis 200D Questions

Car is a 1968 200D Fin back.  Any idea what is involved in fixing the 
windshield wiper "transmission" and fixing the heater vents and control 
valves?


Need estimate on labor hours and complexity as well as approx $ parts if A) 
I did my self, B) MB did it.


Regards Tom

1979 240D

Courting other vehicles

[MBZ] Oil Sucker for Tranny Juice

[ts]

Car is a 1979 240D automatic, 123 chassis.  Want to see if any one has used 
a topsider to suck out old tranny fluid.  Do I still need to rotate engine 
and remove drain plug?
This job will include changing out filter unit as well.  Any stories or 
hints you could share please?


Regards Tom Scordato