Re: [MBZ] 123 Rear window seal
One of my colleagues brought their 560SL into Lightning only to have it returned to them with a torn and heavily damaged dash. Lightning called it unavoidable damage and refused to accept responsibility for the damage. I have heard good things about Triumph Auto Glass in Lilburn off Hwy 29 but have not used them personally. Finding a good glass shop is like finding a good alignment shop. They are far and few in between. Mathieu www.oldworldauto.com On Jun 6, 2006, at 3:13 PM, Rusty Cullens wrote: I always use Lightning Auto Glass on Buford Highway. -Original Message- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] On Behalf Of Ben Karp Sent: Tuesday, June 06, 2006 1:30 PM To: Mercedes@okiebenz.com Subject: Re: [MBZ] 123 Rear window seal I have a 1980 240D with a leaky rear windshield. I know I can get the seal from Rusty (thank you!). Is there anyone in the Atlanta area who knows of a glass shop that will replace this seal - do a decent job - I have a replacement rear windshield in case it breaks. I hade Pro-lightning glass quote me $170 in labor. This seems a bit high? No? Thanks for the help Ben On 6/6/06 1:04 PM, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Send Mercedes mailing list submissions to Mercedes@okiebenz.com To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to [EMAIL PROTECTED] You can reach the person managing the list at [EMAIL PROTECTED] When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than Re: Contents of Mercedes digest... Today's Topics: 1. Re: Lists should be back up now (Kaleb C. Striplin) 2. Re: Diesel Cherokees (Kaleb C. Striplin) 3. Re: Reply if you are getting this message. (Kaleb C. Striplin) 4. Re: (no subject) (Kaleb C. Striplin) 5. Re: Reply if you are getting this message. (Kaleb C. Striplin) 6. Re: Diesel Cherokees (Loren Faeth) 7. Re: [Fwd: Re: Memorial Day CL in Seattle] (Jim Cathey) 8. Re: [Banned] Reply if you are getting this message. (Luther Gulseth) 9. Re: [Fwd: Re: MB Info Access - to http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/] (Luther Gulseth) 10. 300SD - 85 - Throttle linkage (George Larribeau) 11. Re: (no subject) (Luther Gulseth) 12. Re: Lists should be back up now (Luther Gulseth) 13. Re: [SL]Hood Pad Glue (Chuck Landenberger) 14. Re: [Fwd: Re: MB Info Access - tohttp://skinnerbox.steaky.org/] (archer) 15. Re: [Fwd: Re: MB Info Access -tohttp://skinnerbox.steaky.org/] (BillR) 16. Re: [Fwd: Re: MB Info Access - to http://skinnerbox.steaky.org/] (Rich Thomas) 17. Re: [Fwd: Re: MB Info Access -tohttp://skinnerbox.steaky.org/] (Mike Canfield) 18. Re: [Fwd: Re: MB Info Access -tohttp://skinnerbox.steaky.org/] (Steve MacSween) 19. Re: 300SD - 85 - Throttle linkage (Steve MacSween) -- Message: 1 Date: Tue, 06 Jun 2006 08:40:39 -0500 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Lists should be back up now To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com Message-ID: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed Well better than some of the mbz.org major transitions anyways. There are still a few bugs to work out. Last I checked the june archives were not up, and most of the pages for the list still go to striplin.net. Other than that everthing seems to be working though. Marshall Booth wrote: Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: If you are getting this they are working. MUCH smoother than I'd expected. Congratulations! Marshall -- Benjamin B. Karp President/Owner Georgia CPR, LLC 678-362-7094 [EMAIL PROTECTED] www.gacpr.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com ___ http://www.okiebenz.com For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
Re: [MBZ] Coolant Question
To stress the importance of proper coolant, I have seen a number of cylinder heads with holes eaten into the deck surface requiring expensive deck welding repair by the machinist. The V8s are prone to this as are the older inline sixes. (m130, m108, m110, etc) This is caused by a poor coolant servicing regimen, if any at all! Change your coolant regularly folks. Do not let this happen to you. Mathieu www.oldworldauto.com On May 1, 2006, at 6:22 PM, Peter Frederick wrote: The corrosion inhibitors are different -- the green stuff isn't adequate for engines with large amouts of iron and aluminum in contact with the coolant at the same time, resulting en excesive corrosion. It can get so bad the head gasket will blow into a cylinder or cooling passage. Peter
Re: [MBZ] Too young for a Wagon?
You're never too young for a wagon. We got our 280te when we were 25. Still have it and love it. However with gas prices as of late, we're driving our diesels. Go for it, everyone should have a wagon. ;) Mathieu On Apr 28, 2006, at 3:49 PM, Donald Snook wrote: We have all had much discussion about why we like Mercedes cars (esp. diesels), and so much is intangible. Most of my friends concluded a long time ago that I drive old man cars. I got my first MB - a 1971 250 when I was 20, since that time I have had 5 more Mercedes 4 diesels and one gas. I am now 33 and I have always liked the looks of the wagons. I like the old 123 300TDs, and I like the 124 wagon, and I like the newer wagons even the brand new models. My wife thinks the 123 wagons are the ugliest cars on the road and she says I will turn into an old man the moment I get one. I am not really thinking about getting one, but if the right one came along I would. Donald H. Snook 1990 300SEL 126 ___
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro
Joe, Go to the pick-n-pull, find a car with a console piece like yours and you will see that there are blanks to fill in the holes not being used. Please don't ruin a nice bezel. The blanks pop out of the bezel with a minimum of effort. Mathieu On Apr 26, 2006, at 8:29 PM, Joe Knight wrote: Near as I can tell Mathieu is correct. There's just no place the light range switch can go on a W123 anywhere near the headlight switch. Unless someone comes up with a better idea I'm thinking I'll mix up some fairly soupy epoxy with some ground up pencil lead for color and make a mold out of clay in the panel and just fill the blasted hole. Maybe use a little M1 carefully applied with a small brush as a release agent. joe
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro ?
yes, it is for the a/c. mathieu On Apr 26, 2006, at 12:54 AM, John Ervine wrote: Craig McCluskey wrote: Maybe a temperature wheel, like on 240Ds? Sounds like it to me. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 270+kmi 1980 300TD 175+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi 1977 280S 4-spd 81+kmi 1976 350SE 4-spd 163+kmi ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro ?
The Euro headlamp height adjuster switch has the same dimensions as the other switches e.g. antenna, rear defog, rear dome light, etc. The narrow slot is strictly for the A/C wheel on the Euros with manual klima. Mathieu On Apr 26, 2006, at 11:47 AM, Harry Watkins wrote: Joe That may be for the headlight up and down vacuum control, there is one on my Euro but its out of state with a grandson so I can't look. It works. Harry Watkins Newton, MS 86 SDL Silver 85 300D Euro 86 SDL Gold 81 240D manual trans - Original Message - From: Joe Knight [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Tuesday, April 25, 2006 11:37 PM Subject: [MBZ] W123 euro ? Along with the wagon arrived today a box of assorted parts from Speed, among which is the switch panel, the one that carries the sunroof/antenna/etc switches. From the epc, the p/n I ordered received looked to have 5 openings for switches, the 5th being needed for a light range adjuster switch. However what arrived has a sixth opening, 4th from the left, a bit narrower than the others and without the little top bottom recessed bits for the switches to latch onto. Anybody with any experience with euro 123's seen anything like this and maybe know what's intended for this extra opening? Guess I could stuff it with chewing gum or something... :( joe
Re: [MBZ] W123 euro ?
107, 116, 124, 126, 201 have the switch like you describe. I don't know about the later models. 123 has them in the center console. Mathieu On Apr 26, 2006, at 3:48 PM, Jeff Zedic wrote: I thought the headlamp height adjuster wheel was part of the headlamp switch bezel. The three position thingy next to the light switch. Or is that only on the 124/126s? Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD
Re: [MBZ] A few weeks ago, a link was posted..
http://dieselgiant.com/replacetimingchain.htm On Apr 18, 2006, at 6:26 PM, hue wong wrote: SOmebody posted a link to a real good tutorial on replacing the timing chainon a 300d...(all I remember was that it was on a benz site and the poster had shot the tutorial in his garage...) I wanted to forward it on to a friend about to do the same procedure and thought I bookmarked it... but alas, I didn't... Does anyone have that link, prechance? Thanks; -hue-
Re: [MBZ] Where can a guy find a hex key?
Use a very long extension with a universal plus the 10mm hex socket to remove the starter bolts. Ensure the hex heads are free of dirt and debris with a pick so that you don't round out the head. Pulling the trans cross-member does simplify things a bit, but is completely unnecessary. I use a tool very similar to this when RRing starters. It makes life incredibly easier: http://www.samstagsales.com/mercedes.htm#starter%20tools. Mathieu www.oldworldauto.com On Apr 17, 2006, at 3:20 PM, V Layton wrote: If it has the proper bolts, it IS a 10mm. Try to find a 7mm sometime! I bought the Zone 12, 14, 17mm set just for the blasted 14mm (rear diff, manual trans plug) Personally, I think it's easier to lower the trans mount to access the starter bolts better, at least on a 300, a 240 gives you more room Good Luck Vince Club 123D President http://www.club123d.org If you would like stop recieving e-mails from this address, please reply to this message saying so, and you will be removed from our address book. From: Zoltan Finks [EMAIL PROTECTED] Reply-To: Mercedes Discussion List [EMAIL PROTECTED] To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Where can a guy find a hex key? Date: Mon, 17 Apr 2006 12:21:49 -0500 This is nuts. All I need is one hex key to change out my starter (83 240D) and all sets that I can find in stores only go up to 10mm. We don't have Harbor Freight around here, but we have Northern Tool. No luck. Same deal at Sears. And they all come in sets, not individual. Do I have to chase down a tool truck and pull it over? Is it a 13 mm? Brian 83 240D ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net _ Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today - it's FREE! http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Where can a guy find a hex key?
On Apr 17, 2006, at 4:50 PM, V Layton wrote: I'd agree unecessary, in fact I haven't HAD to do that yet since I thought of it! I have done that to access the modulator on the turbos, it's just s easy to lower it while you work, especially when one doesn't have a lift! (Yes, I support it with a jack, to avoid undue stress on things) I understand working without a lift. Spent many years on the creeper with jack stands. If you are doing this work daily, pony up the cash and get a lift. It will save so much time and body pain it is well worth the investment. I highly recommend the Nussbaum screw type lifts. No hydraulics to fail, minimal maintenance, super quiet, and it will probably outlive me. Plus the cost is only marginally higher than a comparable Mohawk. I've used a 10mm hex socket and turned it with a cresent as well, if you can imagine that. Sadly, yes, I can. When in a bind, it is amazing what will work to get the job done. That looks like prettty sweet site, thanks, I hadn't seen that one yet...I saved it. Thanks. It took many hours to build it up to where it is today. (Did your member kit arrive ok, Mathieu?) Sure did. You should be receiving my membership payment shortly. Cheers, All! -m
Re: [MBZ] Where can a guy find a hex key?
Sounds like monkeys have been in there. Ugh! Note: a 3/8 will be too small and will round out the bolts. Whenever I come across a rounded out starter bolt I hammer in a 12mm triple-square head and have had good luck getting them to crack loose. Should this be the case, replace the bolts. It is possible someone replaced the hardware with non-original bolts, so then all bets are off, just find what fits. Factory is 10mm. Mathieu On Apr 17, 2006, at 6:15 PM, Zoltan Finks wrote: I'm a bit confused by this - A 10 mm hex? I thought it was a 12 or 14. I did try a 10, and it was too small (maybe could've made it turn, but would've rounded it out). I did purchase the 12, 14, and 17 socket-driven-hexes at AZone. Brian 83 240D On 4/17/06, Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Marshall Booth wrote: Zoltan Finks wrote: This is nuts. All I need is one hex key to change out my starter (83 240D) and all sets that I can find in stores only go up to 10mm. We don't have Harbor Freight around here, but we have Northern Tool. No luck. Same deal at Sears. And they all come in sets, not individual. Do I have to chase down a tool truck and pull it over? http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker? UseCase=C001UserAction=performMoreDetailParameters=TRUE%7C%7EHand+To ols%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EGreat+Neck++1%2F2%22+Drive+ Metric+Hex+Bit+Set%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7EFALSE%7C%7E141505%7C%7E52 96%7C%7E25417%7C%7ENONE%7C%7E%249.99%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C%7ENONE%7C% 7ENONE%7C%7E0.8%7C%7ENONE%7C%7EB%7C%7EGRN%7C%7Etrue What you need is either a 12 or a 14 mm. The Auto Zone set costs $10. Marshall The screw holding the starter is a 10 mm hex! Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 182Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 237kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi (retired) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] IP Advance (??)
The '78 and 79' SDs had the fast idle knob. They stopped them on the '80 model year cars. Mathieu www.oldworldauto.com On Apr 14, 2006, at 9:50 AM, Peter Frederick wrote: For some reason, they stopped with the turbo cars. Later diesels all have electronic idle control. Peter ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Timing chain troubles on 300d
Hue, First off, pull the tensioner and see if you have enough slack to line up the chain. Next, I would install a temporary master link, the one with the circlips (make sure one of the clips doesn't fall into the motor), next reinstall the tensioner (you will likely have to reset the pin in the tensioner). After this is done, rotate the motor over slowly BY HAND, not with the starter! I assume you have removed the injectors by this point, so that should ease the cranking over of the motor. Once you have completed two full crank revolutions, set the crank and cam at TDC and check your timing marks. Hopefully everything will line up as it should. If not, plan on re-timing this motor completely for insurance sake. Should you need to do that, you will learn the intricacies of IP drip timing. As you are installing the chain by cranking clockwise, there is a good chance all will be well, but you need to make sure before engaging the starter. If you are off by a few teeth the valves will hit the pistons and the starter is strong enough to bend them. Should the motor lock when cranking it over by hand, you have jumped time and plan on re-timing it. If all checks out, replace the temporary master link with the proper one and crimp it on. I heavily recommend using the factory chain crimping tool. Having done chains with the tool and without, the proper tool makes all the difference and gives strong peace of mind to know the crimp is solid and not ramshackled. Keep your wits about you and you will do fine. Mathieu J. Cama www.oldworldauto.com On Apr 12, 2006, at 8:55 PM, hue wong wrote: well damb! So what would be your advice if this was tried with the tensioner in. I suspect I've done a doosy on this! lord Trial by fire, will make me a desiel mechanic yet! zoiks!
Re: [MBZ] timing chain temp link
Order a master clip for an m100 car (p/n 0009970598). It will work just fine. Also, I place many rags in the chain cavity so that if something should fall, it will land on the rag or fall outside of the motor. This is critical to do when grinding/breaking the old chain as well as covering the cam and other open and sensitive areas. Follow the instructions posted on Dieselgiant's web site. That tutorial was photographed at my shop. Mathieu www.oldworldauto.com On Apr 13, 2006, at 1:27 PM, Richard Hattaway wrote: I have one from an old chain, back in the days when it was supplied as part of the replacement. I got it from a real old timer, and I am an old timer too. So mine's pretty old. And worn. But it works. You need to find a benevolent old timer. I will put you in my will, you can have mine when I die. (c: ( may not be too far off (c: ) Richard PS, loosing the bits down a hole is the reason you own one of those super magnet screwdrivers from Autozone. Bitty magnet, lotsa power. It will lift a whole timing chain by the end. Long story, good ending (c: --- Van Cleve [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Where does one get one of these temporary clip links. I have done several T chains and its a PIA to do and undo the regular master link. I remember a post sometime back about using a clip style master link from some other model (other than a 617/6) for pulling the chain through. I assume Rusty would have the link if I knew what to ask for. One could spoil the day by losing all or part of a clip down the hole :'( __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] Parting 1977 280se
Folks, Today and tomorrow I will be parting a 1977 280se. The engine, trans and servo are spoken for already. The interior is believed to be Brasil (lighter than saddle) and is in very nice condition. The seats do need to be re-stuffed. Body is a rust bucket. Car is a 70k mile car. Let me know what you want and make an offer. Tomorrow it goes to the crusher. Very nice glass, good regs, some nice dash wood. Mathieu www.oldworldauto.com
Re: [MBZ] Walmart vs NAPA auto
I'm with Zeitgeist on this one. Been boycotting WalMart for over two years now. On Feb 10, 2006, at 8:28 PM, Zeitgeist wrote: Try anarcho-libertarian commie pinko, and no, I don't like WalMart for a variety of reasons. On 2/10/06, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: you must be a liberal, they dont like wal mart (putting on flame suit) Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler (211k) '84 300D (210k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (187K) ___ http://www.striplin.net For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
[MBZ] RIP: Peter A. Heimuller 02/03/2005
For those that knew him, my father, Peter Heimuller, passed to the Maker on Friday. He was diagnosed with cancer in May and fought hard to beat it. In the last two weeks it became apparent that he was going to lose the fight and was being called home. His passing was calm and peaceful and occurred in the arms of his two sons. For those that did not know him, Peter was a master mechanic, factory trained in Germany at Mercedes-Benz in the late 1950s. He also received factory Porsche and VW training. Peter was born in Kassel, Germany during WW2. As a child, Peter participated in sporting events and was awarded for his accomplishments by the town officials. Peter also served on board a number of the proud passenger ships operated by the German Navy including the SS Bremen. In 1961, he came to the USA with less than $5 in his pocket and made a life for his family. Peter founded a few automotive repair shops in the NYC metro-area over the years where he performed his art. In the early 1970's Peter forayed into drag racing and held a class record for close to a year. He ran in hy-gas with a modified Porsche S90 motor in a '59 VW Beetle. Before retiring in 1995 from the repair business, Peter had worked on some of the most prestigious Mercedes-Benzes built (pre and post war). His last business, Autobarn, specialized in repair and mechanical restoration of these cars. His passing is a serious loss to all fellow car enthusiasts. However, Peter's greatest accomplishment was his dedication to his family. His love was strong, and like most fathers, would do anything for the welfare and happiness of the family. Peter's motto was work hard and play hard. Both of these were the way of life at home or in the shop. It is an honor to have had as much time together as we did. So many things we experienced and were taught, we would not have without Peter. Integrity in life and work were paramount lessons instilled by him. As Peter would say: Do the right thing at the right time. At this time, please celebrate in Peter's passing with a prayer and a happy memory for those who knew him. He is free from the recent suffering, and is now in the throws of those who have passed before him, his parents, grand-parents, and his wife, my mother. With a heavy heart, Mathieu
[MBZ] 240D RIP
My fiancee, Jennifer, was rear ended in her 240D this morning. She is OK, the car did its job. Left rear of the car is toasted and there is frame damage. She was hit by a large Ford work van that went over her bumper at about 30-35 mph. I'll post a link to pictures as time allows. Off to battle the insurance company. The car was a rust free 240d w/ manual trans, 180k on the clock, been under my care since 108k miles. A truly nice car that was maintained to the T. I have over $6k in the car. Anyone care to start a pool to see what the insurance will settle at? Mathieu
Re: [MBZ] 240D RIP
Pictures of the car are at: http://oldworldauto.com/240RIP/240D_RIP.htm Body shop estimates $5400 in damages. OUCH!
Re: [MBZ] MB Mailing List map
Just set up a map for everyone. Link to it at: http://www.frappr.com/klebmbz Cheers, Mathieu Rick Knoble wrote: Anybody want to map out where we all are? http://www.frappr.com/ Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] MB Mailing List map
6 and 1/2 dozen to me. Didn't see you had yours set up when I made mine. However, there are many folks on this list who are not diesel exclusive so the name is a tad misleading. Whatever suits everyone best, does not matter to me. -m Chuck Landenberger wrote: So much for coordination. Now we have two maps for the list www.frappr.com/dieselbunch and the one Matheiu set up.. Will be happy to delete the dieselbunch... What say you, Matheiu??? Chuck. On Nov 3, 2005, at 9:52 AM, Mathieu J. Cama wrote: Just set up a map for everyone. Link to it at: http://www.frappr.com/klebmbz Cheers, Mathieu Rick Knoble wrote: Anybody want to map out where we all are? http://www.frappr.com/ Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] MB Mailing List map
Seeing all the subs already on yours, mine will be deleted momentarily. Chuck Landenberger wrote: So much for coordination. Now we have two maps for the list www.frappr.com/dieselbunch and the one Matheiu set up.. Will be happy to delete the dieselbunch... What say you, Matheiu???
Re: [MBZ] MB Mailing List map
it is for the map admin only. Gabriel S. wrote: i don't see the advance menu
Re: [MBZ] GULLWING
It's a scam, most likely. Car is located in Indonesia. Mathieu Cama www.oldworldauto.com Rick Knoble wrote: http://detroit.craigslist.org/car/105133770.html $58 large... Rick Knoble 1985 300 CD ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] name calling...
Been a part of these lists since 1997 when it was still Mercedes-Veterans. Saw the lists go to mbz.org and saw all the other lists evolve from the Vets list. During the mbz.org years I had the pleasure of adminstering a number of those lists. Mathieu off to Road Atlanta fro the race in a few minutes, expecting a '53 220 Cab A in on Tuesday for major sorting. Bob Rentfro wrote: Ken remarked: Which old one? MBCA? Kathy? LL? This group of people has been on a number of lists I bet that there would be only twenty or so people on the list presently who remember all those old lists. Bob Rentfro '77 300D 141K Litchfield park, AZ ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] (no subject)
Injection pump. Gabriel S. wrote: what is an ip?
Re: [MBZ] 123 300 TD fiber optic lights out!
Andrew, There is one bulb that illuminates the switches via fiber optic cable. The bulb sits in a holder that provides for all of the fiber optic lines to catch the light. This holder is located in the depths of the center console on the drivers side. It sits against the console between the klima unit. To access it, remove the panel with the switches (defroster, ant., etc.). With that out of the way one, with care, can see the holder and trace the fiber optic lines to what we call the octopus. In general, the klima push button unit does not need to be removed, but it may help you if you find the extra room will help. The bulb is the same as those used in headlamp switch for the rear Euro fog indicator as well as those used in knobs for the w123 with manual klima control. This light is fused on the same circuit as the rest of the instrument lamps. With regards to the shift indicator lamp, there is a bulb located on the side of the shifter mechanism. It too has a plastic holder. The bulb used here is different than that used for the fiber optics. Regards, Mathieu Cama andrew strasfogel wrote: I recently swapped the radio in my 1983 300TD, and last night noticed that the four switches in the slim wood panel above the ACC push button array were ALL dark (for the antenna, rear hatch light, rear w/s wipers, and rear wiper washer pump). These switches are lit by thin fiber optic cables powered by a mother light source, IIRC. My questions: Where is this light source located? Is there a fuse that powers it? Could I have somehow disconnected it or knocked out a bulb when swapping in my radio? Thanks in advance, Andrew 1983 300TD 276 K miles ___ For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 356 engines in VWs
The fellow who taught me the trade used to drag race a '59 bug with a rather hopped up S90 motor with dual Weber 48s in it during the 1970s. He was so quick, that they placed him in the Hi-Gas class with the hot GTOs, Camaros, and the like of the time. Before he stopped racing he was turning 1/4 miles in under 13 seconds and held the track record for the class for the better part of the year. When the car was retired, the frame was tweaked measurably with the right side lagging behind the driver's as a result of the motor being held in with solid mounts. Fast forward about 10+ years, while I was apprenticing, he dusted off that special S90 motor and installed it into a '72 Superbeetle convertible. Like you say, it was a silly fast machine. I fondly recall being taken for a ride in it. In short order the speedo was pegged at 100 and we were still accelerating. Once he lifted off the throttle, it took a measurable bit of time before the the speedo needle lifted off of the peg. That truly was one of the best rides I ever have been privy to. The sound of that wound out S90 motor was to die for, but it was running straight pipes too. Mathieu Cama Dan Weeks wrote: I've also seen a couple of 356 engines in VWs. My brother was given a 1954 356 that had driven into a toll both and totalled. It was so rusty that the entire car basically disintegrated. My brother bolted the Porsche 1500 dual carb engine and aluminum close-ratio trans into a 1960 beetle that was 15 years old at the time and looked totally beat. He used to amaze 302/4V/duals-equipped modified Mustang IIs by winning drag races with them. Low-speed handling was astounding. It would take 90-degree turns at 45 mph with a flick of the wrist and a tap of the toe and never leave the lane. It basically pivoted around the front wheels. The g-forces would separate flesh from bone. The stock VW would have rolled trying such a maneuver, but the lighter engine--and the ability to power-steer the rear end--made it possible. I've ridden in professionally driven Vipers and 911Ss on race tracks at triple digit speeds, but nothing I've sat in defied the laws of physics like that Porschwagon. Eventually the bug disintegrated too, and my brother sold the engine in Hemmings to a Porsche restorer.
Re: [MBZ] Passed Over for Top Post, Head of Mercedes-Benz Will Resign
On that note, I was attending an unveiling of the at the time new r129 at MBNA headquarters in Montvale and a discussion had ensued about the newer MBs and computers among some of the attendees and MB officals there. It was said that in the upcoming w140, there would be more computers on that car than in the first manned space craft. What is all of this technology in aid of, besides costing millions of dollars and making cars less dependable in the long run? Oh, wait, these cars are no longer designed for the long haul. Seems they are to be disposable just like a good old Bic lighter. Sad. Mathieu At 12:28 PM 8/19/2005, you wrote: Christopher McCann wrote: What worries me is when the cars that most of us have are very hard to find (10 years)...then what - a 320 CDI that is wired like the space shittle? (pun intended). It makes me want to stockpile 300D's for my kids. oh well. ranting done. I'd rather the space shuttle. As of a few years ago, they were still greatly relying on the venerable 486 processor for most of the computer systems. Old, yes, but proven and reliable through the years. It may go into space, but the tech that gets it there is far from cutting edge. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi 1980 300TD 168+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] OM616 diagnosis... need some voices of experience here
Steve, My recommendation would be to perform a valve adjustment and then a leak down test. If the issue is a burned valve, you will know it by the sound of air escaping through the intake or exhaust. It is rare for these motors to eat a piston to the point where you have zero compression, but it does happen. Here's hoping for just a burned valve. Mathieu At 11:27 PM 8/16/2005, you wrote: 5. So we pulled the injectors out of #1 and #2 and did a compression test. - #1 ZERO, no movement at all on the dial when cranking - #2, shows strong movement right up to almost 500pds (yes, we checked this twice) OKAY, so here I sit. I now have a choice: either roll the 240d parts car into the shop, swap out the engine with a known good one, then pull the existing engine apart at my leisure, OR we pull the head off this one while it is still in the car, and see what we have to pay the Piper. Thoughts, ideas, most appreciated. Mac Aylmer, Quebec '60 Mercedes 220s / '82 Mercedes 240d / more 240d parts cars on the way! '75 Volvo 164e / '88 Volvo 245 Maybe a '90 Jetta TD ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 1981 280E with 5 speed manual
This car is a Euro car unless someone converted it after the fact. Should it still be in true Euro form, this will be a very nice machine. I have always wanted one of these w/ a 5 speed. Of course it should be injected being an E. For reference, my 280slc with 4 speed manual gets about 22-23 mpg on the hwy at a very steady 140 kph. Around town I see 18 or so. Jennifer's 280te w/ automatic sees a shade below 20 mpg on average. I have seen tired m110s get well below 17 mpg in poor repair. The best I have ever seen was 24 mpg on a long trip in cool weather in the SLC. If the car has high mileage (over 200k mi) expect worn valve seals and potential issues with the carrier bearings in the tranny. Pull the oil cap and scrape your nail on the front of the cam box to determine how thick the sludge buildup is. Ideally there will be none. I have seen neglected motors have over 1/4 of buildup. That is not a good sign of regular oil changes. The only US spec w123 available with a stick shift from the dealer was the 240d. All other manual cars are grey market Euro-spec or franken-car conversions. In 1981, I believe the 280e was still available at the dealer and was the last year it was officially imported. If your car is grey market there should be a tag on the driver's door post indicating who imported the car and there should be a screwed on vin tag on the front cross member visible when you open the hood. Check the motor number to ensure it still has the original motor. The US spec m110 is a dog in comparison to the Euro m110. You can run the datacard at: http://www.mbclub.ru/mb/vin/?lng=eng You will see where it was sold, what options it had, what colors, etc, etc. Regards, Mathieu At 07:55 PM 8/16/2005, you wrote: Dieselvolk, In my desperate current desparate state (no AC in my wagon) I'm considering the purchase of subject named automobile. Price is right, lady is selling it due to an electrical problem, description of condition indicates a decent runner with working AC. No idea on the mileage, I'll be looking at the car later in the week. So, as far as I can tell without having seen the car, it's a 123.033 with 110.998 engine?? I think that it is a grey market import because of the five speed - can anyone confirm of one could purchase a 280E in 1981 at the dealership? With a 5 speed transmission? According to the 1985 TDM, engine is 110.988 (in years 83-84-85). According to another source, engine is 110.984, and 280E was sold in US from 1977-1981, but the second source is a little flaky. Any information about this particular model would be appreciated, including mileage, fuel system (carbs or fuel injection). Very respectfully, /s/ LCDR Meade M. Dillon, USNR '85 300TD 323k miles (Euro 5spd) '96 Infiniti I30 150k miles (wife's 5spd) '73 Balboa 20 'Sanctification' Charleston SC
Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures
Personally, I like to loosen the injector lines from the injectors, pull a vacuum with a mity-vac on the shut off valve, and then crank the motor. If the valve is seated correctly there should be no fuel coming from the pump. If there is fuel, it should be a good amount, and then, yes, the valve is installed wrong pushing the pump to a full rich mixture. While this is a bit of labor, it allows a test before assuming a great risk. I used to do this when learning the feel for a properly installed shut off valve. When the valve is installed properly, before fastening it to the pump, you should be able to pull the valve back and feel resistance from within the pump due the valve being hooked into the pump lever inside. However, it can be misleading if you have never done one before. Use extreme caution if this is your only means of a test. Should a run away occur, I hear CO2 works well. Personally, I would cut the fuel supply line from the fuel filter housing to the injection pump with a pair of wire cutters. A fuel line is far cheaper than a motor. Ensure you know what line to cut if you should need to. It will be the line going from the filter to the pump. On US spec the line runs to the pump facing the fender, NOT the motor (that is the return line). On Euros the line goes in to the nose of the pump. Your filter housing may have an arrow indicating flow direction. Cutting the supply lines at the feed pump will be moot, as it takes much longer to shut the motor down as all the fuel in the filter will have to be consumed first. Rags may work, but you risk having one ingested into the motor. Not a good thing. Have fun. Mathieu At 10:48 AM 8/17/2005, you wrote: I am hoping to receive my new shutoff valve from Rusty today/tomorrow and am anxious to do the intallation. Even though I fully understand that if you do this job right there is no danger of destroying the engine due to a run-away, I want to be prepared for a worst case scenerio. Will someone please review for me the ways to quickly kill the engine if disaster should strike? The ones that come to mind are firing a CO2 fire extinguisher into or stuffing a towel into the air cleaner. Am I forgetting something that is easier? -- If we couldn't laugh we would all go insane. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures
On US motors the STOP button does not move. This will only apply to Euro motors and the later pumps in the 60X motors. At 11:11 AM 8/17/2005, you wrote: What he means is when the stop button won't work. A dire emergency. Don, do this: 1: Put the new valve back in place 2: Leave all 4 bolts loose about 1/8-1/4 3: Apply vacuum with MightyVac and watch valve suck itself into the IP and pull the stop lever down. 4: Tightenen everything down. 5: Clean hands, tools, and work area. 6: Throw trash away. 7: Start car and drive away with a clean mind. 8: Stop car somewhere, and enjoy the quick response to shutting off. Simple, enjoy! Luther
Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures
It does not work in that case. At 11:11 AM 8/17/2005, you wrote: No, I think the emergency stop doesn't work if the shutoff valve isn't in correctly.
Re: [MBZ] 6 degrees of stretch
I picked my tool up for about $150 on EBay used a few years back. I have seen them go for as little a $100. I believe Rusty used to have one of these available for rent. Rusty? When it comes to doing these timing chains, please use the tool and have the peace of mind. Yes, the chain can be crimped by other means, but having done it both ways, I will never do one without the factory crimping tool again. The tool truly does a nice job of making the crimps. $150-200 is cheap for a tool versus what can happen if the chain should come apart. Mathieu At 11:47 AM 8/17/2005, you wrote: dave walton wrote: Is this the correct tool? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Double-Row-Timing-Chain-Press-Repair-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ4568203046 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Double-Row-Timing-Chain-Press-Repair-Tool_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQitemZ4568203046 That's quite a low price for that tool. With the proper jaws, the tool used to be well over $200 and that was before the dollar dropped in value. I figured they would be $300-350 by now. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures
These diesels do not have electronic fuel pumps. Once started, these motors needs no electricity to stay running. It would be nice if it were that simple. Mathieu At 01:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: How bout a home made kill switch? Take a fuse that will fit for your fuel pump. burn it. solder it to a swith w/ an inline fuse
Re: [MBZ] emergency shutdown procedures
Tim, You've got it. The shut off stops fuel flow. Mathieu At 02:29 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: I've found the manual shutoff for the VW TDI engine. It's similar to my MB 617, but it doesn't have the big red stop sign on it. I understand that it shuts off the fuel flow. That's how the MB shutoff works, right? Tim 1982 300TD Moby
Re: [MBZ] mysterious pool of oil
That's exactly the purpose of that plug. It is a provision for a mechanical tach. There is an o-ring in there that will leak after a while. Leaks from this plug are commonplace as these cars are getting up in years. Mathieu If I recall correctly, older OM61x engines (or maybe it was OM621 engines) had a takeoff to attach a mechanical tach to the engine. It looked like it would be where a distributor would be on a gasoline engine. Engine oil could migrate around the cover if it were loose MAYBE!? Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] was - mysterious pool of oil - now Q about tach
It was only used for diagnostic purposes. Mathieu At 08:16 PM 8/17/2005, you wrote: A tach would be nice. Where would I find such an animal? Where did it go inside? Was it part of a different cluster or was it an add on like the tachs we are familiar with for gasoline engines in older vehicles? Randy in Winnipeg
Re: [MBZ] OM617 into 240d with 4-spd
Here in Atlanta we are blessed with two such driveshaft shops that are up to this task. On my conversion, I had a true Euro 300d parts car so there was no need to modify the driveshaft. It was a purely bolt in affair. The N/A m617 with a manual trans behind it is really a nice driver. Steve, let me know what your questions are regarding the conversion. Mathieu Cama '67 250s (4 sale) '71 280se 5 speed '77 300d (soon to be 4 sale) '78 280slc 4 speed '82 280te '83 240d 3.0 4 speed '84 300d 5 speed '86 190e 2.3-16 At 11:10 AM 8/16/2005, you wrote: yes ,the only problem is that you to find a good driveshaft place to cut the drive shaft. John Ervine [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Steve MacSween wrote: Has anyone here actually DONE this? Pls e-mail me offlist, I have some questions I know that Craig McCluskey has, as has Mat Cama. -- John L. Ervine 1981 240D 4-spd 267+kmi 1980 300TD 168+kmi 1980 300SD 277+kmi
Re: [MBZ] OM617 into 240d with 4-spd
Juan, I occasionally have cars for sale, but my mainstay is repair and mechanical restoration. There are recyclers here in the area that you should look into when you get into town. Every once in a while they have some interesting cars roll through. If by good deals you mean am I am the cheapest show in town?, then no. However for what I have to offer, my prices are fair and competative. Please check out my website at www.oldworldauto.com. When will you be arriving in Atlanta? We have a large MB community here. Regards, Mathieu At 05:42 PM 8/16/2005, you wrote: hey mathieu ,i plan to move to atlanta,i need to good junk yard with planny mercedes cars ,and reasonable prices.or do you have good deals on mercedes.
[MBZ] Car advice
Fellow Listers, A customer of mine is seeking a car to use for his traveling sales job. He averages 60,000 miles/year. He was thinking of rebuilding a 300sd w126 for this, but the cost of doing so has him thinking of moving into something else or at least a far nicer example. Does anyone have any recommendations of what would be an ideal car for him to use? A later w126 perchance? Also, does anyone have a car for sale that would be up to this sort of use? He would like to find a car that would last him for 3-4 years (200k miles plus) at a minimum without having to perform major repairs. His budget limits him to under $10k. Ideally he will stay with a diesel due to fuel costs. TIA. Regards, Mathieu
Re: [MBZ] Car advice
Let me clarify, the fellow is looking at w126 and w124 cars. He does not want a w123 or anything earlier. Anything newer would likely be out of his price range. Personally, I think a 300D 2.5 would be the ideal car. Now, to only find a nice, low mile example. Mathieu At 12:21 PM 8/9/2005, you wrote: No. At 12:15 PM 8/9/2005, you wrote: Wouldn't Gary's 240D do the job and be fairly economical? ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Car advice
Marshall, Any thoughts about this one? TIA. http://makeashorterlink.com/?A1702159Bhttp://makeashorterlink.com/?A1702159B Mathieu A 124 300D 2.5 or E300D (90 thru '95) in good shape could be ideal. The 124 is a LOVELY car to drive on the highway and 30+ mpg of the 602.96 or 606.91 engines are easily attainable (36 mpg is possible under good conditions). In high mileage situations and highway driving 350-500kmi lifespans with FEW problems are very common. These cars are usually quite affordable. Marshall -- Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions) der Dieseling Doktor [EMAIL PROTECTED] '87 300TD 181Kmi,'87 190D 2.5 199Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 227Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 159Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 turbo 234kmi Diesel Technical Advisor MBCA, member GWSection http://www.dhc.net/~pmhack/mercedes/mbooth1.htm
Re: [MBZ] MY Injection pump is FUBAR?
Contact Yankee Diesel in Newton, Ct. He is the sage of all things injection
pump.
Mathieu Cama
At 03:56 PM 8/5/2005, you wrote:
Wise Klatta Group;
SHMBO will not be pleased!
What does one do when confronted with an injection pump, which has
been deemed BROKEN by a rather impeccable source?
Do you buy them rebuilt? Where? {Hello Rusty?}
Rebuilt carburetor for my '46 Ford was $7, this will be more? How
much?
How many hours will I be paying to RR this thing? I think it is
beyond me; I hate working on this car with POS manual on CD.
Any knowledge of Indy's in Connecticut that work on these?
--
Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.
1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 185 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
2002 PT Cruizer, 70 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
Re: [MBZ] Stop me please before I do something I will regret
One can never have enough. :) Mathieu 11 and counting At 11:30 PM 7/29/2005, you wrote: A dozen is probably enough -- On 7/29/05, mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED][EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Sounds like people are getting Sanford and Son Syndrome... I know it is tempting to buy all these cheap Benz's but how many do you really need? -- OK Don, KD5NRO Norman, OK '87 300SDL '81 240D '78 450SLC
Re: [MBZ] Stop me please before I do something I will regret
Get a PPI from a competent shop. If the car has majors, you will know soon enough to run away. Mathieu Cama At 03:36 PM 7/29/2005, you wrote: On an errand this morning, saw a 450SEL with a for sale, $1200. Looked pretty nice, blue/blue, paint a bit faded, a few dings here and there, interior nice. Called the guy, it's a 77, 120k miles or so, A/C working but might need a recharge, tranny takes a few minutes to start shifting right but then OK, he's owned it since 81, all service at Enzo Luzo's place in that time. Probably get it for $1k. Stop me please. --R ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] 108 List, ADMIN
I have no objections. If you'd want it to cover all MBs from the 114/5 and back that works for me too. I'd gladly welcome talk and tech about the older MBs. Mathieu Cama At 09:13 AM 7/19/2005, you wrote: you will have to ask mat that. redghost wrote: they going to cover the 115 as well? On Monday, July 18, 2005, at 06:54 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: As you may or may not be aware, we created a 108 list for people who want to only talk about 108's, 109's etc and other old cars, and may or may not want all the traffic on the main list. Its just getting going so probably has not had any traffic yet. Im a pleased to announce that Mat Cama will be running that list since he is quite the expert with the old cars. I am sure Cama will make it a great place to hang out. -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Clay Seattle Bioburner 1972 220D - Gump 1995 E300D - Cleo 1987 300SDL - POS - DOA ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250 Okie Benz Auto parts-email for used parts ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
RE: [MBZ] GASSER vs D ??
Check the fitting on the back of the intake manifold that connects the plastic line to the alda as well as the banjo fitting on the line. When this is clogged, your performance will be slow on the m617 turbo. Also, if this does not help you, there is a switchover valve on the firewall on the driver's side. The line from the alda goes to this valve and then goes to the intake manifold. You can bypass this switch by connecting the lines together and sometimes that will help your performance. Those valves do fail and cause poor performance. A well tuned 617 turbo should not have any issues getting up to highway speed. I assume you have performed the routine maintenance such as valve adjustments, diesel purge, etc. Mathieu Cama At 12:17 PM 6/22/2005, you wrote: My 420SEL gets 19 around town and 22 on highway. My 300SD gets 25 MPG. Over all the 300SD is slow compared to the 420SEL and I have thought long and hard about replacing the diesel with a gasser just so I can merge onto highway. Regards, Trampas
Re: [MBZ] Normally Aspirated Diesel at High Altitude/NO ADA?
My euro m617 has the same pump. There is no ada. The euro 240d also has the same pump, just minus one cylinder. Mathieu Cama 240D 3.0 euro conversion running WVO www.oldworldauto.com In a message dated 6/20/2005 6:56:50 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: The cylinderical object at the top with the tube fitting is the vacuum shutoff. The bolt at the rear top is the idle speed adjustment. Craig, Finally got the picture, very clear by the way, and the vacuum shutoff is right where the ADA should be. I have seen several Euro engines but never one like this. Don, is yours like this too? Jim Friesen Phoenix AZ 79 300SD, 261 K miles 98 ML 320, 136 K miles ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
Re: [MBZ] Pricing a 240 for sale
My 240d 3.0 is not for sale. I have way too much in it, especially now that is has a low mile euro 3.0 in it. I plan to use this vehicle as a test bed for WVO and bio diesel mods. I plan on configuring custom injectors and with the help of the fellow who does IPs for me we will play with pump settings. I bought that car from a customer who moved onto a 300sd. That car has been in my service since it had 108k on the clock. Now it has around 177k. Zero rust, clean '83 240ds are hard to come by that have been maintained to a T. Plus it is a manny tranny car. If your 240 was a nice example, you sold it for too little. Mathieu Cama At 11:28 AM 6/20/2005, you wrote: I sold my 1974 240D 4-speed for $1250 a year ago. You should be able to get at LEAST that for your 123 240D.
Re: [MBZ] NY state inspection
Umm, no. It may not have a floor. They look for things like frame rot around the suspension points and the frame rails. If the floor is patched, either metal or fiberglass it would still pass. Personally, I've had many cars pass that had 3 plus diameter holes in the floor. Then again, I knew the inspector well. Go look at it unless it is dirt cheap. Mathieu At 02:59 PM 6/20/2005, you wrote: Nooo, never that, this is an estate sale and nice little old ladies in estate sales sort of see 'condition' as being the same as 'was waxed in 2000'. But it went thru inspection 8 mos. ago or so, so presumably it has a floor :-0. Yeehah! Thanks Mac
Re: [MBZ] Dragging brake mystery
David, What you describe is typical of a faulty brake flex line. Also a defective caliper can cause this, but that is less probable being that it is new. First off, I would recommend that you check to see that you did receive the new parts that you paid for. If your flex line seems to be dry rotted, then it is an old line that may be decomposing from the inside. I have never come across a brake master failing in a manner so that would cause the brakes to drag as you describe. Also, trace the hard metal brake line to the tee fitting by the diff. to ensure there is no damage that could be causing a restriction. Possibly, there is a kink in the line. When you have the car in the air, have someone hit the brakes repeatedly, and upon their releasing the pedal, see if there is drag on the wheel. Lastly, bleed the brakes and see if any particulate matter comes out. There is a good chance dirt got into the caliper or brake line during disassembly if the tech was not careful in their work. This could cause the fluid to release slowly causing the brake to drag. If your rotor is blued from the heat you will want to consider replacing it with the brake pads. That should be covered by the shop warrantee should this be caused by carelessness on their behalf. Regards, Mathieu Cama Old World Automotive Lawrenceville, GA www.oldworldauto.com At 02:45 PM 6/16/2005, you wrote: My left rear brake is dragging. I'm sure of it. I can feel the heat coming off of it after a freeway run, and that wheel is covered with brake dust. If I jack it up, I can feel that it's tight. The dilemma: The brake caliper, rotor, and hoses on both rear brakes have been replaced in the last month. In fact, the problem started when they were replaced. I've taken it back to the shop that did the work, and they think I'm nuts -- they say the pads are moving freely and they can't find anything wrong. I guess I don't have much choice but to tear into it myself. Any suggestions on what to look for when I take it apart? --- David Brodbeck '83 Mercedes 300D Turbo ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] For new parts see www.buymbparts.com For repairs see www.oldworldauto.com To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
