I'm considering adding a THP HL-1.2KFX solid state amp to the K3S station I
have, and was wondering how others have done this. There seems to be
conflicting info on the "right way" to do things.
1. The THP manual states that ALC should be used to control the amp, but
2. Elecraft support (and
Hi Ken,
I think you must have an eBay Store, because that is the only way fees
could be that low. In that case, you have to pay a monthly "Store fee" to
get that rate. If you are doing high volume, that makes sense.
http://pages.ebay.com/sellerinformation/stores/Subscriptions.html
For the
I've done business on eBay, eham.net classifieds, and swap.qth.com boards.
All have yielded acceptable results. I've never been burned at any of them
as a seller.
I recently sold my K3 on eBay, but would've preferred to sell it on eham.net
or swap.qth.com. eBay, as you know, takes about 15% off
I don't want to say it was the Linksys network switch -- but "it was the
Linksys network switch".
Just replaced it with a Netgear switch with a metal enclosure (GS305, for
those keeping score at home). Plugged it in, plugged in the network devices
(VoIP phone, laptop), and went downstairs to scan
I looked in the K3S manual, and the instructions on setting up data modes
(p. 33) fail to mention the use of the KIO3B internal sound card. Are there
instructions (erratum?) available on how to set up data modes (using DATA
or USB/LSB) with this new feature?
Probably a simple answer to this
Hi all,
After finishing up my K3S build with only one incident (the 400Hz filters
mysteriously not working in the new rig -- they are now at Elecraft for
testing, FYI), I am reconnecting my K3S and the rest of my station.
Finally, I got motivated to finally get my KAT500 connected to my computer!
OK. I have to come clean and admit that despite more hours with a soldering
iron than I would care to count, I made a major error when I completed my
recent K3S build.
You know that REF CAL procedure where you zero beat WWV? Well... let's just
say that I somehow managed to set the oscillator to a
s. I replaced the CAT5 with
> CAT6 with 4 available pairs, but that alone would not have solved my birdie
> problem. The real "fix" was in the move from 10 -> 1000. I do not believe
> that changing cables alone will solve your problem.
>
> -larry (K8UT)
> -Original Messa
vices from cat5 10 mb to cat6 1000t gigabit
> ethernet.
>
> -larry (K8UT)
> -Original Message- From: John Shadle
> Sent: Thursday, February 04, 2016 1:07 AM
> To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: [Elecraft] slightly OT -- acceptable network switch (aka
> Linksysproduces b
Hi,
I completed the build last night, and I am putting the rig through its
paces. I previously had a K3, so I am familiar with the menu and
configuration.
I configured the filters in the K3S as follows
FL1 - 6 kHz
FL2 -
FL3 - 2.7kHz (-0.95 offset)
FL4 - 700 Hz (+.04 offset)
FL5 - 400 Hz
I have
I just completed my K3S build and initial configuration. Woohoo. I was
tuning around the bands, and I noticed birdies *everywhere*. Every 20-30Hz
on 40m there was one -- and it was LOUD. I thought that something was up
with my build, but then started doing an internet search for "K3 birdies".
I
Hi all,
Looking at the manual, this isn't clear, so I'm going to ask here.
If you record a QSO using the K3DVR, for example, is there any way to get
that file to a computer (and off the K3 or K3DVR)? Possibly by using the
KIO3B USB output?
Thanks!
-john NE4U
Had a couple of bites, but nothing firm yet.
K3
- 2.7 kHz 5-pole SSB/CW filter
- 100W PA (KPA3)
- 100W ATU (KAT3)
- KXV3A - transverter/receive antenna interface
- KSYN3A upgrade (new synth which is shipped with all K3S radios)
Mods have been completed to bring this up to spec. S/N 110.
I am considering upgrading to a new K3S, and I have a K3, currently.
What I am selling would be a basic model (10W) plus the 100W amplifier and
the 100W internal ATU. The stock 2.7kHz filter would be included. The
synthesizer has been upgraded to the latest version (KSYN3A) and other
hardware
Considering purchasing a K3S and am interested in helping someone else
realize their dream of owning an amazing rig, in the process.
K3/100 (S/N 110)
- KSYN3A (upgraded synth)
- KAT3 (100W antenna tuner)
- KBPF3 (general coverage receive filter)
- KXV3A (RX Ant, IF Out & Xvrtr Int)
- 2.7 kHz
I am one of those folks who has the INRAD 700Hz filter (special-ordered by
the guys at UNPCBs, http://www.unpcbs.com/). I use it exclusively for
scanning the bands on CW. When I want to get tighter, I have the 400Hz
filter below that. I've found that combination works wonderfully for me.
For SSB,
Please let me know if you are selling your KPA-500.
Thanks!
-john NE4U
Madison, WI
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I use N3FJP's software, and I know he has this capability (and I have used
it in the past) to play a .wav file using a function key from your
keyboard. Easy, peasy.
Also, you might check out the Vocal Keyer by KG4JJH or the commercial
version of the same project, called the LogiTALKER by Idiom
Hi all,
I know that I have seen a blog post by a non-US ham about doing this, but I
can't seem to locate concrete instructions on his site or elsewhere.
My setup is as follows.
- K3
- LP-Bridge to share serial ports for rig control and logging
- LP-PAN using NaP3
- E-MU 0202 USB sound card
NaP3
Hi all,
I've been enjoying using an AL-811 to help bust the pile-ups with my long
wire antenna and Dentron Super Tuner Plus (manual tuner), but would really
like to add a QRO autotuner to the mix.
Currently, my K3 and AL-811 sit on my desk. The Dentron sits about 15' away
on top of a bookshelf
*** For Sale ***
EC2 project enclosure (unused/new)
* Includes all hardware needed to build the box
* Great if you are building a separate KAT100/KPA100 for your K2/10
* Nice size for many projects/homebrew rigs/test gear
Retail $79.95 from Elecraft + shipping
Asking $68 + shipping
Prefer
Hi all,
I wanted to let you know that in digging through my stuff, I found
*another* EC2 project enclosure.
The first one has sold, in case you were wondering.
Asking $68 + shipping (probably ~$7 or so for First Class postage).
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
*** For Sale ***
EC2 project enclosure
* Includes all hardware needed to build the box
* Great if you are building a separate KAT100/KPA100 for your K2/10
Retail $79.95 from Elecraft
Asking $68 + shipping
Prefer payment by cashier's check or USPS Money Order. Will accept PayPal
if you are
Possibly the best option for the K3 (beyond a good set of filters) has to
be the KRX3 sub receiver, in my opinion.
I have found this especially helpful in quickly and easily finding the
worked station for split operations. With all of the W1AW/x operations this
year--most of them running
Hi all,
Here is the problem. I am using my K3 in SSB mode. I key down the mic, and
it shows the red LED TX quite bright, but no power is coming out.
However, when I key the radio with the audio input from the computer (using
N3FJP's AC Log software) I am able to play a recorded file (e.g., W4PAH,
Wow! Thanks for all the positive and helpful comments. I feel like a
fool...somehow I had MIC GAIN down to 0. I am clearly the most talented guy
on this list! ;-)
Ha.
-john W4PAH
On Thu, Mar 6, 2014 at 5:56 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Hi all,
Here is the problem. I am
I am trying to use the TUNE button to help provide a constant carrier, as I
always do, with my external Dentron tuner. Everything works great--except
it is exhibiting strange behavior on 15m. When I hit TUNE it won't hold the
TX 15W (what I have set as the output power). In fact, it shows 0W and
Hi all,
This could be tangentially related to a K3 issue, or maybe K3 experts can
give some insight here. FYI, when I am not using the amp, I can get 100W
from my K3 with no problem. Please keep reading...
I have been using my AL-811 (not new, but new to me) successfully at 500W
for the past few
an issue with my AL-811 not being able
to load up on 80 meter CW - they were extremely helpful on the phone.
Jim / W6JHB
On Aug 9, 2013, at 8:37 AM, John Shadle wrote:
Hi all,
This could be tangentially related to a K3 issue, or maybe K3 experts can
give some insight here. FYI, when I
,
~iain / N6ML
On Fri, Aug 9, 2013 at 8:48 AM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com
wrote:
I should also note that sometimes the amp simply being powered on (not in
OPER position, but just ON) has flipped my GFCI. This has happened a few
times.
So odd. And annoying, since my computer
Continuing to pare down the shack. I offer my Elecraft AF1 ($59.95)
and the W8FGU Lexan enclosure ($29.95).
Works very well to bring the signals out of the noise.
Filters: Variable Cutoff Low pass filter (SSB/CW) plus two levels of
narrow CW bandpass filtering with tunable center frequency.
Dave,
I love my Sony MDR-7506 headphones. They are comfortable and not tight
on the head (but are over-the-ear headphones, not earbuds), but the
cushions provide a good seal between your listening and the outside
noise. They're also great for listening to music.
MFJ-259B antenna analyzer for sale. Excellent, working condition. HF
through 180 MHz. Includes an AC adapter, as well.
New price is $289.95.
Optional Pelican 1200 hard-sided case can be added for $32 (retails for ~$40).
MFJ-259B only is $240.00
MFJ-259B + Pelican 1200 case is $272.00
Buyer to
PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Hi,
I completed the installation of my KRX3 this evening (and upgraded the
DSP board on my main RX, too).
When I first turned the unit on, I received ERR PL1. This cleared out,
then I tried to calibrate the synthesizers. First, I tried the SUB
Hi,
I completed the installation of my KRX3 this evening (and upgraded the
DSP board on my main RX, too).
When I first turned the unit on, I received ERR PL1. This cleared out,
then I tried to calibrate the synthesizers. First, I tried the SUB. It
went through its procedure and then returned E
Hi all,
I'm working on my KRX3 install and am wondering if I should move my
KBF3 (currently installed on my main RX) to my subreceiver, or leave
it in my main receiver.
Are there advantages/disadvantages to either situation, as far as
sensitivity of RX for ham bands and bands outside the ham
Paring down the station...
Elecraft AF1 Active Filter ($59.95)
W8FGU AF1 Active Filter Enclosure ($29.95)
Total new is $89.90. Your price is $76.00 + shipping.
Please contact me off list to arrange for shipping and terms.
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
Hi all,
Having just sold my Buddipole Deluxe and Buddistick, I happened upon
another few parts that I am looking to get rid of...
1x VersaTee ($45.00) http://www.buddipole.com/versatee.html [This
VersaTee has the Center Tee Adapter molded to the base.]
1x Counterpoise Wire Adapter ($4.50)
In order to help finance some upcoming Elecraft purchases, I'm selling
my Buddistick and Buddipole. Please read below for details.
Since Elecraft sells these products, I figure it's fair game to post
them as for sale here. ;-)
First, the Buddistick. Includes the basic Buddistick package ($139),
Hi all,
I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
COM port on my desktop computer.
I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click on a spot and
then the radio changes frequency/mode).
macdonnell - N6ML a...@dseven.org wrote:
On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:38 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Hi all,
I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
COM port on my desktop computer.
I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency
pull down the voltage generated by
the keying port, and cause it to not work you could try it, I
suppose
73,
~iain / N6ML
On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 2:54 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Do you think there would be a problem in letting both signals pass
through
Ah forget it. I needed to use the right search term...
http://www.radioshack.com/search/index.jsp?kwCatId=kw=d-suborigkw=d-subsr=1
Maybe creating my own cable is the way to go after all.
-john
On Tue, Aug 7, 2012 at 6:03 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Good point, Iain
,
Don W3FPR
On 8/7/2012 5:38 PM, John Shadle wrote:
Hi all,
I'm trying to accomplish keying with my K3 using the RS232 port and a
COM port on my desktop computer.
I currently use the RS232 for station logging to provide frequency,
mode, etc. information and for rig control (e.g., click
Hi all,
I realize that this is tangentially related to Elecraft gear since I'm
using a K3 and experiencing this issue, but I thought someone else may
have some knowledge to share with me to help me solve my problem.
Recently I stopped using a 25' long extension cord to power my
computer, power
Hi Terry,
I have been using N3FJP's AC Log for a while, both with my K2 and now
my K3. I haven't had any trouble at all with DX spotting and clicking
on a spot to do a frequency change with either rig. I can take a look
at my settings if you like.
So, basically, clicking on a spot doesn't work?
, John Shadle wrote:
I should've clarified. I'm using the Elecraft MD2 desk mic. It has a
Y-connector with a 1/4 jack (for the footswitch) connected to the
8-pin mic connector for the front of the K3 (or K2).
In order of preference, here is what I'm curious about their existence:
1. A 1/8 plug
Hi all,
Are there any recommended 8-pin to stereo mic cables for the K3 (for
moving the mic to the rear panel), or will just any old one do?
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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:58 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Hi all,
Are there any recommended 8-pin to stereo mic cables for the K3 (for
moving the mic to the rear panel), or will just any old one do?
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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The filter has been sold. Thanks for your interest!
-john W4PAH
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If you are looking to unload your KRX3, please contact me off-list.
Please include a description of the filters included (if any) and your
expected cost.
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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The 13 kHz FM filter for K3 is excess to my needs.
Asking $125 (free shipping to US).
Please contact me off-list.
Thanks
-john W4PAH
Madison, WI
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Help:
Hi all,
I am finally getting the ol' radio back up and running after a few months
of packing and moving from NC to WI. In my past life (in NC) I was mostly
CW, but now that the shack is in the basement I want to get back on SSB.
I have an Elecraft desk mic (the Heil version from a few years ago).
the
switch is depressed? There are some musical (band) applications
where this would be the case.
73!
Ken - K0PP
On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 5:06 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.comwrote:
Hi all,
I am finally getting the ol' radio back up and running after a few months
of packing
=Gv1sRgCNTGxcrS-qLoegfeat=directlink
-john
On Mon, Jan 9, 2012 at 12:06 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Hi all,
I am finally getting the ol' radio back up and running after a few months
of packing and moving from NC to WI. In my past life (in NC) I was mostly
CW, but now
, and connected the white wire to the center arm of the switch,
it would only be connected to the black wire when the switch is
depressed
73, Ross N4RP
On 1/9/2012 1:31 PM, John Shadle wrote:
Here's an update with photos of the innards.
I think there might be a way to rewire this one
I see that KX3 Ordering and Shipping dates will be Fall-Winter 2011
according to Elecraft's web site
(http://www.elecraft.com/KX3/kx3.htm). Will the KXPA100 be available
at that time as well? If so, have any more details been released about
it (kit like the K2 or semi-kit like the K3; price range;
I'm headed up to KL7-land next week and am going to take the K2 with
me. I was thinking about using the KAT2 to tune a wire attached to the
BL2 (at the 1:1 setting).
Probably going to cut some teflon-coated wire this evening and pack it
away in the bag.
I'm seeking input on the best lengths of
Having never been to Dayton, I don't know what the protocol is--but is
KE9V (who graciously provided the photos) able to also provide prices
to us for these new offerings?
Or, will they be appearing from Wayne and Eric in the coming days?
The KX3 looks cool, but the KXPA100 is more interesting
Does this device have a name yet?
The KX3 sounds neat, but I'd love to get my hands on a 100w amp for
5/10w radios.
Will it be a solder kit or modular like the K3?
-john W4PAH
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This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
then switched over to 40m to pursue some more DX. When I got there, I
wasn't able to get any power out. It showed 0.0W when I tried to TUNE
(I have a remote tuner at the base of my vertical).
I power cycled the radio and then
Add to this the fact that the radio now is only putting out 12W
instead of 100W. :-(
Thanks for any assistance.
-john W4PAH
On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:28 PM, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
This is odd. Just finished a QSO with J5UAP on 30m this evening and
then switched over to 40m
That was my first thought, Ron.
I had previously had my TUN PWR set to 25W, but when I looked at that
menu item it was set to 12W. I had not changed the setting.
The KPA100 was no offline in the config menu at all.
I reflashed the firmware and now it's all working, I think. The
LP-100A
Doing that now. Thanks, Gary.
-john
On Wed, May 4, 2011 at 10:52 PM, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
Aaaargh...dang fingers...CONFIG TX GN
Sheesh
Gary
On 5 May 2011 12:51, Gary Gregory garyvk...@gmail.com wrote:
Plus do a full congig TX etc
Gary
Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
load on all bands. Hmmm.
Thoughts?
Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...
-john W4PAH
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, John Shadle sha...@katzenfisch.com wrote:
Just did the TX GAIN CONFIG and I'm getting only ~80W into the dummy
load on all bands. Hmmm.
Thoughts?
Maybe my LP-100A is poorly aligned, but I don't think so...
-john W4PAH
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If anyone has a KBPF3 excess to their needs, please drop me a line
with your price including shipping to 27510 (Carrboro, NC).
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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Help:
I'm considering the purchase of a K3, but first I need to dump some radios.
This is KX1 S/N 1601 built by me. It contains the 30m/80m module, the
ATU, and the Elecraft paddle.
Retail price is $570 + shipping.
It can be yours for $475 shipped USPS Priority Mail (in the USA). If
you pay by
The KX1 has been sold. Thanks.
-john W4PAH
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Trying to raise money for a new transceiver and am going to bring my
K2 back to QRP by selling these accessories.
This is for a KPA100 ($399.95) mounted in an EC2 ($79.95) with the
KAT100 ($219.95). Total value is approximately $700.
The KPA100 was built by KZ1X and has all of the updates which
I think I finally might get to replacing my failed headphone jack this
weekend. Anyone have any tips for this little job? I recall that there
are more than a few pins to desolder.
Also, does it make sense to not put stress on the headphone jack in
the future by plugging my headphones into the
there for appearance - just tight enough to keep the nut from backing
itself off is sufficient.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/21/2011 10:25 PM, John Shadle wrote:
First follow-up.
When I unplugged the key from the back of the rig, the keying stops.
If I change the input to hand then it keys
Don,
How are you always right? ;-)
I checked the key and there was definitely a bad connection there.
Things *appear* to be working just fine. I just had QSOs with WV and
MI.
Still trying to figure out why I got the burning smell, though. That
is quite curious...
Any ideas on that one?
-john
I just plugged in my rig and was getting ready to operate this evening
when something horrible happened.
I have a serial to USB cable which I use for rig control (between the
KPA100 and my laptop). I notice that when I plugged it in there was a
spark (at the computer end). Probably static charge
the case
to check yet. Need to get to bed now. Zzzz.
On Fri, Jan 21, 2011 at 10:00 PM, John Shadle m...@w4pah.com wrote:
I just plugged in my rig and was getting ready to operate this evening
when something horrible happened.
I have a serial to USB cable which I use for rig control (between
Hi all,
I read through the archives and am wondering if I may have fallen prey
to the bad headphone jack problem. I am able to hear just fine when
I have my headphones plugged in, but get no audio out of the speaker
when I remove the headphones.
For the record, the speaker *did* work at one
Dave Sergeant d...@davesergeant.com wrote...
You have probably already checked this, but:
Is the lead to the speaker plugged into P5 on th RF board?
Do you get audio if you plug the headphones or a speaker into the rear
Ext Speaker socket?
Is the speaker itself OK, and all wiring intact?
No audio from the external speaker output. Nothing happens when I
wiggle the speaker cable (which was plugged into P5 on the RF board.
Everything else appears to be just fine. I suppose the next step is to
email the folks at pa...@elecraft.com...
Thanks, all.
-john
Hi all,
I have been fiddling with the KDSP2 for a while and am trying to get
my head around the settings for optimal CW reception. Yes, I know
that's all subjective, but I'd be interested in hearing what folks are
using for the denoiser settings (beta, decay, CW gain) as well as the
CW filter
For some reason the noise level was higher than normal at my QTH last
night on 40m. I struggled to pick out the signals at all--but heard a
faint CQ around 7.117 MHz. I fiddled around with the stock crystal
filters as well as the KDSP2's filters but was only able to hear the
signal well after
Hi all,
I added a few more items to the list over the past couple of days as
well as some more photos of the items already on the list. Thanks for
all the buyers helping me clean out my closet. Still plenty of things
left!
http://www.w4pah.com/fs.html
Oak Hills Research SCF-1A (switched
I made a web site with embedded photos so it's easier to see.
http://w4pah.com/fs.html
Included now:
- Elecraft KBT2 (unbuilt)
- Elecraft KAF2 (built)
- PIC-EL (built)
- NJQRP DDS Daughtercard (built)
- Kenwood TM-V7A (dual-band 70cm/2m rig, plus goodies)
- ICOM 2100H (2m 55w)
- SignaLink SL-1
I decided not to install the KBT2 and am using the KDSP2, so I have no
need for the KAF2.
The KBT2 is an unbuilt kit. It does not include the battery
(replacement batteries are available directly from Elecraft), so
technically this is the KBT2-X. Retail price is $49.95. I'm offering
it for $37.50
Hi,
I completed the K2 and KAT100/KPA100 (in an EC2) project. Everything
is playing well together, but there are some cable issues I'd like
to resolve in order to make it less messy when I bring the radio out
of the closet to operate.
First of all, I plan on making a short (~4) jumper, which is
piece of coax and there should never be a need to remove it.
Technically, the 9 pin D-sub connector is the DE-9, but is often mis-named
as a DB-9.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 10/28/2010 9:25 AM, John Shadle wrote:
Hi,
I completed the K2 and KAT100/KPA100 (in an EC2) project. Everything
is playing
My K2 is very low use (just finished it a few weeks ago). When I turn
the main VFO knob it wobbles a *lot*. It seems like it especially
wobbles vertically, but also other directions as well.
I tightened the screws (which were already tight, by the way) and that
didn't help at all.
Any ideas?
Problem solved. Thanks to a list member who wrote me off-list. The nut
was loose and it was catching the felt washer.
73
-john W4PAH
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Help:
I finished my K2 a few weeks ago and have to first thank Don W3FPR for
helping me with the alignment and final check-out. After bringing it
back home, I went to work on the KAT100-2. That was a few
evening/afternoon project, but it is done and it has been mated with
KZ1X's old KPA100 very nicely
I'm almost done with the construction of my K2 twins (K2,
KAT100/KPA100) and am about to construct the control cable for the K2
-- KAT100/KPA100 -- PC.
The instructions from the KIO2 state that the length of the cable can
be up to 15' (the total length included in the kit), but the KAT100
manual
If you have an extra pair laying around, I'd be interested in taking
them off of your hands.
I'm pretty sure that Elecraft doesn't sell these individually...
Please reply directly.
Thanks!
-john W4PAH
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I'm nearing the end of my K2 build, and am working on the KSB2 module
at the moment. On page 11 of the most recent version of the manual
(Rev E), it shows the secondary winding going against the grain of
the primary winding. I really want to start with wire 2 on the same
side of the toroid as wire
the green turns do not cross over the red winding and it will be neater and
work just as well.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/16/2010 8:42 PM, John Shadle wrote:
I'm nearing the end of my K2 build, and am working on the KSB2 module
at the moment. On page 11 of the most recent version of the manual
(Rev
I know of this one link.
http://www.kk7p.com/k2kpa100.html
Is this the most current/best guide for remoting the KPA100/KAT100?
Are there other guides which offer different/better information?
Thanks.
-john W4PAH
__
Elecraft mailing
or the KPA100. You will need a BNC to BNC
cable between the K2 and the KAT100 AUX RF jack, and you will need a short
PL259 to PL259 coax to connect from the KPA100 to KAT100 input.
The KIO2 or a suitable substitute is needed in the K2.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/13/2010 10:08 AM, John Shadle wrote
Also, I just found this conversation from a while back. You reply with
a very similar note, Don. ;-)
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-REMOTE-KPA100-KAT100-td469168.html
And, there are some folks who chime in with their own experiences
doing this. It does sound like a very easy job!
I was
Here is a relevant post I recently submitted to the QRP-L lists which
may be of interest to folks here.
For the record, no one asked me to turn anything on.
-john W4PAH
Hi all,
I recently made a trip to Anchorage, AK for work and decided to carry
on two 17Ah SLA (sealed lead-acid) batteries to
Hi,
I'm trying to finish up my K2 and am preparing to install the
K2KSB2XTLS mod. I understand where these crystals go on the KSB2
board, but am trying to figure out which crystals I remove from the RF
board. Looks like probably X7-X11, but that leaves me with 2 extra
crystals for the RF board.
Hi all,
Please forgive me for this non-Elecraft intrusion. I'm hoping that
someone can help me out with a question about modifying rigs to
operate on the opposite sideband. Please continue reading below for my
reason why...
I'm trying to modify Dave Benson's PSK-20 rig to operate on USB (it
On p. 22 of the T1 assembly manual it states that resistance between D3
anode and the - pad near D7 should be 100Kohms. That's good.
However, it then states that when I press S1 I should see resistance
between 117k and 130k ohms. I have 148k ohms.
Is this a problem? If so, what should I check?
Hi all,
I'm trying to get my K2 finished soon and am hoping to work on the
KSB2 module this weekend and early next week before some work/leisure
travel to California. One mod I'm planning on incorporating in the
KSB2 module is the SSBCAPKT, which allows for either 2.4 or 2.6 kHz
SSB signals.
I've
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