sorry never weighed it, but I would guess at least 30kg if not 40. The
suspension could be softer, but be careful the softer you go the better in one
way, but the more risk of throwing tracks
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegr
My 1/6 scale M113 uses 6.3mm torsion bars, it could go a bit lighter depends on
total weight. The chassis is a 2mm steel bent tub and fairly heavy steel wheels
that I made.
B
From: 'Mike Mangus' via R/C Tank Combat [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com]
Sent: Monday, S
Yes there are two of these in the tank
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Loic [l...@fieldofarmortanks.com]
Sent: Friday, October 09, 2015 10:15 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Successor of Tal
Motor size would depend on the weight of your vehicle. Most people with these
are using 300 watt, some 400 watt and if the vehicle is smaller and lighter
then a pair of 250watt should suffice.
All units operating well are running at 24v.
Ben
From: rctan
What do you mean the Victor is only 16V? There are two versions - a 12v volt
version which is 16V max, and a 24v version. 60A continuous. The only
difference is the fan voltage I think. They are pretty unbreakable.
http://www.robotmarketplace.com/products/IFI-V883.html
Ben
_
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w4lnVx2BAYk
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You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
To unsubscribe, send email to rctankcombat+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com
Visit the group at http://groups.google.com/group/r
+1 the IMX-1
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Derek Engelhaupt [tan...@gmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, February 04, 2014 10:01 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Motor Amplifier
I will second J
What I was suggesting was holding fire if a friendly was within the target
area. Doesn't solve the people problem though.
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, 10 December 2013 4:46 PM
To: rctankcombat@goog
Add in an IR camera, an IR flashing beacon on friendlies, and don't shoot
within X feet of a friendly.
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of fan fan
Sent: Tuesday, 10 December 2013 1:08 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] P
Gears are more complicated and harder to install, and more expensive. Chains
are cheap, simple and easy.
I find it interesting that you say "most" tanks are rear-drive. This may be
true of todays tanks, but WW2 era tanks were mostly front-drive.. There are
obvious advantages in efficiency if th
+1 for Sketchup. It's not owned by Google anymore but is still free and still
just as good and easy to use.
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Grant Stonnell
Sent: Friday, 22 February 2013 5:28 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: RE
Our boys from Oz use the Bushmaster, has excellent mine protection;
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bushmaster_Protected_Mobility_Vehicle
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Saturday, 9 February 2013 7:13 AM
To: rctankcombat@googl
I went with a Spectrum DX6i, 2.4Ghz, very happy with it, just get a bot
receiver so that if it ever loses the radio signal it will stop, rather than
keep the throttle position (as per an aircraft).
5 channels is probably all you need, and the DX5 is cheaper, I went with a DX6
in case I want ano
Hey Derek,
What's the wattage on the motor?
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Derek Engelhaupt [tan...@gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, January 14, 2013 10:21 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] Electr
the innards...
http://www.youtube.com/my_videos_upload?feature=vm-menu
Derek
On Mon, Nov 5, 2012 at 4:57 AM, Ben Holko
mailto:b...@holnet.net>> wrote:
Awesome
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com<mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com>
[mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com<mail
Awesome
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Derek Engelhaupt
Sent: Monday, 5 November 2012 9:26 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Long overdue motivation to build
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bg_fDX56CJQ&feature=youtu
Steve is this to pump water from your basement? Sorry for the dumb question, in
Australia basements almost don't exist.
Good work, hope everyone did ok.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of TyngTech
Sent: Wednesday, 31 October 2012 2:23 A
The pics didn't make it into email for some reason, you can see them in the
google groups web interface;
http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Derek Engelhaupt [tan...@g
I used 6.3mm spring steel on the M113 (still under construction!). 5mm would be
better I think. I will post details of it one day, but in short I welded a
socket to the end of the spring bar, and then mated that to a hex head as a
form of mounting. You can't really bend the spring steel easily,
Yes Dave once commented to me that playing with a 1/6 tank was much like taking
an expensive dog for a walk
Gotta say I'd rather be driving a 2/5 version.
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, 23 June
I was thinking FG42 but it doesn't look big enough
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of John Pittelli [jpl...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, June 20, 2012 10:35 AM
To: tank club
Subject: [TANKS] A Blast from the Past
Thanks for posting your experience, look forward to hearing the next instalment.
PS: you're right about the matches, they do however work ok if you approach the
gas very slowly from the side, kind of weird, the further away it is the better
it works, otherwise they get blown out.
Ben
From: rc
with "tread" (I really don't
know what to call it).
On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 11:06 PM, Ben Holko
mailto:b...@holnet.net>> wrote:
I concur - M01's in my ~200lb Tiger hauled arse at 5mph, and barely even got
warm.
Apart from the fact that this track idea has cleats, I fa
I concur - M01's in my ~200lb Tiger hauled arse at 5mph, and barely even got
warm.
Apart from the fact that this track idea has cleats, I fail to see how it
offers any more "reliable" or "non-throwing" advantages to any other roller
chain track?
Ben
From: rct
I also have an M113. It was mobile back in Aug 2010, I haven't bothered getting
it designated yet as I want to fix the tracks first (still on the list TO DO,
lol). The rear idlers need redoing to keep the tracks straight;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ba0AR8vBGA
From: rctankcombat@googlegro
Link here for email programs which strip the embedded link;
http://www.thedecoy.org/1/6th/plan/
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Buck Cronk
Sent: Wednesday, 4 April 2012 9:45 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Cr
You will have much trouble trying to weld to roller chain. The grease/lube that
is on and in the chain will make conductivity problematic, and cause all sorts
of issues with trying to lay down a bead or even a spot. Do yourself a favour,
don't bother trying. If you are dead-set on this, then I s
T067's turret started with an LSB. As Mr Tyng eluded to (can you see into my
shed Tyng?) side loading causes them to bind, they are no good for turrets. The
dirt issue also reared its ugly head. I chucked it away and put in a 5/8"
bearing, problem solved.
This is not to say that an LSB cannot b
Good to hear some progress. The front plate is called the "glacis" plate.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, 5 February 2012 8:17 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] tiger 1 work
ju
I have an ARC (stick) and a MIG welder. The MIG is WAY easier, and makes little
mess if you use solid wire with shielding gas. Most MIG welders also support
gasless wire, which has a flux in the core of the wire. I now only use the ARC
outside where wind would blow away the shielding gas. The AR
Ø I know there was a few blokes a while back but they seem to have disappeared
Still here, still trying to find time to fix the rear idler on the M113
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Chris. b
Sent: Monday, 9 January 2012 6:32 PM
To: rctan
Merry Christmas, have a safe 2012.
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Lee Jackson
Sent: Sunday, 25 December 2011 3:14 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Re: Merry Christmas
Wishing all a very
350w is plenty. I had 350w M01 motors in T067and it weighed closer to 190lbs
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of cirdna [www.and...@live.com]
Sent: Wednesday, December 21, 2011 9:21 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
eme. Alice
Springs Chicken. Yum. Do you have Outback restaurants there, or do you have
too much of the actual outback to have a restaurant called "Outback"? Maybe
you have one called "Grand Canyon" with American food?
Bill
--- On Mon, 11/14/11, Ben Holko wrote:
From:
wouldn't want it any heavier.
Chris,
According to your email you sent it out on Nov 15 at 9AM (tomorrow). How did
you do that?
Bill--- On Mon, 11/14/11, Ben Holko wrote:
From: Ben Holko
Subject: RE: [TANKS] 3' or 1:7 or 1:6?
To: "rctankcombat@googlegroups.com"
Date: Monda
we're not all in the same timezone. I am GMT+10 (+11 at the moment for
summer-time)
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Bill Byrnes [bb_ho...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, November 15, 2011 10:10 AM
To: rctankcombat@googl
T067 was built to 1/6
M113 under construction is also built to 1/6, which puts it at about 75cm (29.5
inches)
Apart from the practical considerations of having to move the vehicle around, I
think bigger is better.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctan
I cut a lot of al when building T067. I used my mitre saw with a blade made fur
cutting aluminium. Worked great, makes a hell of a mess though with tiny bits
of al all over the shop.
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behal
Neil you trailblazer. Nice work. Looking down the barrel must make aiming a
cinch, but you're pretty much the side of a barn in that thing
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of neroc
Sent: Monday, 17 October 2011
> "More work, less whining" is the key to success.
amen to that
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Frank Pittelli [frank.pitte...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, September 23, 2011 8:44 AM
To: rctankcombat@googlegr
With appropriate prior arrangements with the airline you can take firearms, so
I would imagine a paintball marker would be allowed!
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Cobra [afreem...@live.com]
Sent: Tuesday
Video and pics both work fine for me (Win 7 with Windows Media player)
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Chris Malton
Sent: Friday, 2 September 2011 6:52 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: Pz38(t) progress
Nice work, but I think you mean 900VA, not KVA!
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Tyng
Sent: Monday, 29 August 2011 9:05 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] A Practicle Use for this Hobby
So what does an R/C Tank Comb
Careful with aluminium electrodes for an arc welder, I think you'll find
they're carcinogenic.
Do yourself a favour, if you're going to electrode weld, get a gas Mig (one
that can also do gasless if you want). For Mig welding aluminium or stainless
steel you need pure argon, as opposed to an "a
You recognise that the group is quiet, yet you choose to post all your progress
over at rcgroups.com instead of on the board which is actually dedicated to the
hobby?
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Ryan P. [
> I am going to try to get a cad program for christmas
Google Sketchup is free.
:)
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Ryan P. [rpw...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 27, 2011 3:39 PM
To: Tank Guys
Subjec
: Ben Holko
To: "rctankcombat@googlegroups.com"
Sent: Saturday, July 23, 2011 8:25 AM
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Werker 12V 20AH Battery
T067 went LiPo from the get go, and was the first tank to do so I believe. I
didn't want to worry about SLA's and charging and dischar
T067 went LiPo from the get go, and was the first tank to do so I believe. I
didn't want to worry about SLA's and charging and discharging rates, lifespan,
catching fire and all that :)
Also the power to weight ratio is huge compared to SLA.
The 24v 20Ah pack that I bought was over $350 deliver
Hi Marcus,
Best bet for plans and measurements is to buy a 1/35 plastic kit, and scale out
the measurements from there.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Marcus Ward
Sent: Saturday, 2 July 2011 3:46 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
rld of Tanks
where do I get it?
On Jun 2, 6:38 pm, Ben Holko wrote:
> www.steelbeasts.com
>
> it is the most realistic tank simulator ever - there is a version which is
> sold to militaries around the world who use it for actual tank crew training,
> including the US and Aust
t: [TANKS] Re: World of Tanks
What is that
On Jun 2, 4:53 pm, Ben Holko wrote:
> I had a look at this, I think I prefer Steel Beasts
>
>
> From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
> of mike [dirtbiker4
I had a look at this, I think I prefer Steel Beasts
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of mike [dirtbiker4...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, June 03, 2011 9:14 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: World of Tanks
what do you call fast?
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of tdobbins381 [tdobbins...@yahoo.com]
Sent: Wednesday, April 06, 2011 1:08 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Speed vs Motor
All most all the vide
If you measure the outside measurement of the track wrapped, you have the
distance, regardless whether it's circular, hexagonal, or ten-sided. I don't
think drive speed accuracy for a 1/6 model is necessary down to millimetres.
Ben
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Yes, but you need to know the outer circumference of the drive wheel with the
track wrapped around it - depending on your track/sprocket design this could
have a significant (>10%) difference on your calculations.
To continue your example, if your drive sprocket circumference is 10cm, but
with
Don't forget Dave Manson also builds/built conveyor tracks in 2/5 scale, the
tracks on his M60 are particularly nice;
http://www.youtube.com/user/Gizmo4t
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcombat@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of MaleRN [guiltyki.
1mm steel plates are manufactured, so i was stuck with it.
I hope my file format is universal
Neil R
On 18 February 2011 00:16, Ben Holko mailto:b...@holnet.net>>
wrote:
If you know the dimensions of your track, sprocket drawing is easy.
Is your sketch more about how the sprocket looks, or is it s
If you know the dimensions of your track, sprocket drawing is easy.
Is your sketch more about how the sprocket looks, or is it supposed to be
measurement based for tooth design? Tooth design is determined largely by your
track and track pad dimensions.
Ben
The M113 that I am making (albeit slowly lately) has torsion bars too, see
these pics. Since these pics were taken I have changed the mounting point at
which the bar connects to the hull, but you see the basic idea.
I ended up using a ¼" drive socket (7mm from memory) and welding that onto the
I did the rubber pipe bit for a tyre, except it is on steel wheels which I made
from laser cut components, have a look at this thread:
http://groups.google.com/group/rctankcombat/browse_thread/thread/5480417dfa38be2e/45e56ecef73a9252?lnk=gst&q=steel+wheels#
the rubber is glued on with epoxy, but
Those wheels look like nylon - just use the natural bearing properties of nylon
riding on a shaft?
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of ROCHFORD NEIL
Sent: Friday, 24 December 2010 11:15 AM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: Re: [TANKS] Marder Progre
Nice work - is that some kind of U-channel steel that you have cut up to make
the track pads?
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Guy Gregoire
Sent: Monday, 22 November 2010 1:35 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS] KT ro
I just use an angle grinder or dremmel, then pry the chain apart with
screwdriver/hammer/whatever is at hand.
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of odysseyslipw...@aol.com [odysseyslipw...@aol.com]
Sent: Thursday, Novemb
For T067, in 1:6 scale, lightweight aluminimum frame with 3mm aluminium panels
on bottom and ply panels on top, heavy and solid drive components, with
attachment chain/wood tracks, over 90kg and it wasn't finished at that weight.
That was with 6kg of Lithium battery, no marker.
___
Throwing tracks can be caused by the wrong tension, but in my experience I
think it's more to do with the sideways flex in the track system - when turning
this can throw the alignment off enough to "de-rail" the track.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.c
I don't think there is anywhere near enough traffic on this list to warrant
something like that.
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, 31 October 2010 2:55 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANK
while on the subject of unbroken paint-balls, never ever load old unbroken
balls and fire them - after a fairly short time exposed to the outside they
turn hard, and firing them could be like firing a ball bearing.ouch!
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups
I think Neil is talking about an axle, not a torsion bar. A 1" torsion bar will
be WAY to big for your 1/3 tank!
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Jason R Schafer [jasonrscha...@gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 28
7" ?!?!? that would be one big tank
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of odysseyslipw...@aol.com [odysseyslipw...@aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, October 27, 2010 3:34 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com
Subject: [TANKS]
ok, so what is a "tank"
Accordingly to the current rules it is any fully tracked vehicle, so that means
an M113 is a tank, and would be stratecially an excellent choice as its only
750mm long at 1:6 scale, and can be armed with 40 shots due to variations that
exist with a 75mm canon.
But what
oltage does the system run
at?
Also, wouldn't LiFePo4 batteries conk out trying to run 2 of those motors?
Since you have 2 motors pulling a lot of amps each, I would be expecting a fire.
On Fri, Oct 8, 2010 at 4:08 PM, Ben Holko
mailto:b...@holnet.net>> wrote:
He says in series;
&g
He says in series;
> I will be testing (8) 10ah LifePo4 batteries in series
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Gregory Kampjes [sockles...@gmail.com]
Sent: Friday, October 08, 2010 12:17 PM
To: rctankcombat@googlegrou
Nice setting, it's good to see a bit of desert driving, wish it had made it up
that hill though!
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Cobra
Sent: Sunday, 5 September 2010 2:42 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS]
I agree with Doug - 16 swingarms with overlapping road wheels is probably not
the best idea for your first build.
Whatever tank you choose, I think the best way to get your plans is to buy a
plastic kit (1:35 or larger) and measure off the kit to scale up the
measurements.
Ben
From: rctankco
It made it to the concrete, if only briefly. One of the rear idlers was not
correctly aligned and threw a track, also the suspension needs beefing up in
various departments, more work to do!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5ba0AR8vBGA
--
You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" gr
>From memory the sprockets you have on there are #41 or #42, some people have
>discarded them and replaced with #35 sprockets that were bored and keyed from
>blanks. If anyone on this list is still making these #35 sprockets then I'm
>sure they'll say so.
Some others have used 41/42 chain with
It never occurred to me directly, but I have had several people comment that if
a real firearm was mounted on the tank then it could be used to rob banks!
B.
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Patron [sainto
Are you building your tank from the outside in?
B
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of ryan wells [rpw...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Friday, August 06, 2010 12:47 PM
To: tank guys
Subject: RE: [TANKS] Re: Tracks
Well the so fa
for a 1/2" hole 3-4mm thick in aluminium any general purpose bit designed for
wood/steel will work, just go slow and use some cutting lubricant.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of odysseyslipw...@aol.com [odysse
Annoying isn't it. Remember to check the sideways alignment of your front and
rear sprockets/idlers (if applicable) - I had that issue in a test run of my
M113.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of Timothy Hayes [
t@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Steve Tyng
Sent: Sunday, 1 August 2010 10:00 PM
To: R/C Tank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: M113 coming together
All this cracks and crevices look good but remember you'll be spraying
paintball goo our of those areas at some point.
Steve
Ø I haven't updated the site for a while
4 years does count as quite a while! Has there been any more construction that
hasn't been posted?
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of Pete Curran
Sent: Saturday, 31 July 2010 10:36 PM
To: r
To build a tank big enough for you to be completely encased in the hull/turret,
it will be massive. If you go a bit smaller and have your head sticking out,
you better wear a full face motorbike helmet!
B
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googl
For those building vehicles out of steel, these baby's could come in useful,
especially the threaded variety;
http://aussiemagnets.com.au/magnets/Shapes-and-Styles/Pots/?sort=featured&page=1
B
--
You are currently subscribed to the "R/C Tank Combat" group.
To post a message, send email to rcta
ank Combat
Subject: [TANKS] Re: I've Decided On A Tank, And Other Important Stuff.
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M4-R0062-12
http://banebots.com/pc/MOTOR-BRUSH/M5-RS775-18
what about these 2 motor??
On Jul 11, 7:28 pm, Ben Holko wrote:
> Unless your tank is going to be EXTREMELY ligh
Unless your tank is going to be EXTREMELY light, that motor will be to small.
An M01 has more than three times the torque, well more than three times the
stall current, and weighs about 7 times as much.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/PicoSwitch.htm
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of ryan wells [rpw...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Wednesday, July 07, 2010 12:47 PM
To: tank guys
Subject: [TANKS] wiring actuators
What was t
I've always thought it would be nice to have barrel recoil, good luck!
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] on behalf
of ryan wells [rpw...@hotmail.com]
Sent: Tuesday, July 06, 2010 1:08 PM
To: tank guys
Subject: [TANKS] new paintba
Building an RC operated musket style operation is easy if you only want one
shot, but building a reliable reload mechanism for semi-automatic operation
however, is not so easy.
But at its basics, its just a tube with some sort of valve and either co2 or
HPA. Typically in a homemade operation th
Etch primer will provide better adhesion to metals than normal primer -
typically for nonferrous metals, but will work to a degree on steel etc also.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, 5 July 2010 1:0
, impressive! Are you going to etch paint them once you are finished to stop
them rusting?
As an interesting observation, most vices seem to be blue, I wonder why.
-Gregory
On Mon, Jun 28, 2010 at 11:35 PM, Ben Holko
mailto:b...@holnet.net>> wrote:
Try this with attachments
-Or
One completed wheel, with tyre but without axle, is 334grams.
I will need 20, so my wheels will weigh 6.68kg, or 14.7lbs
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol.com
Sent: Monday, 28 June 2010 12:29 AM
To: rctankcombat@goog
$3.85 per wheel for the laser cut steel, rim is 3mm thick, the "rings" are 5mm
thick each
+ a 10mm collar
+ the cap screws
+ the rubber
Cost will depend on your local supply chain.
Ben
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of odysseyslipw...@aol
You can either use a separate 6v battery pack, or you can get/make an
electronic voltage regulator kit to convert 18v to 6v.
I think the experienced tankers all recommend a separate battery pack to remove
the chance of interference from the motors through the control electrical
system.
Ben
-
Most tanks also weigh quite a bit more than 15kg, I would think more like 30kg
- 60kg would be the average, of course the smaller examples may get as low as
15kg.
-Original Message-
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of neroc
Sent: Mond
Use one of these:
http://www.dimensionengineering.com/PicoSwitch.htm
From: rctankcombat@googlegroups.com [mailto:rctankcom...@googlegroups.com] On
Behalf Of ryan wells
Sent: Sunday, 20 June 2010 3:43 AM
To: tank guys
Subject: [TANKS] door lock actuator
How do you attach a door lock actuator f
You can convert one to face the other way if it makes mounting easier, see this:
http://www.anvilus.com/motor01_LH_RH.txt
Theoretically they will turn at a fraction of a difference in speed as one
motor goes in "forwards" and one goes in "reverse", but in practice this does
not detract from the
Aaron F
On Jun 16, 8:05 pm, Ben Holko wrote:
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=53&produc...
>
> I believe the 450w version and the 250w version are the same size, in which
> case look at this:
>
> http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//produ
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?cPath=53&products_id=811&osCsid=fcd4d4ed14cc0712b10d30c928efaf87
I believe the 450w version and the 250w version are the same size, in which
case look at this:
http://secure.oatleyelectronics.com//product_info.php?products_id=192&osCsid=15e23
I would suggest you incorporate a "stop" so that it cannot compress any further
once your tracks are adjusted, but it will still spring-out to take up slack
during bogie compression.
The M41 has a similar approach on the front bogie - when the front bogie
compresses it pushes a shock which forc
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