Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
I wrote: Watermakers are small, affordable and efficient these days. I've never regretted pulling the v-berth tank and converting to storage. PS. Removing the weight of the big water tank in the V Berth allowed me to carry full chain anchor rode. Very useful. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List genoa sock
I just purchased a new genoa from Doyle and requested a sock instead of uv protection. It ends up being cheaper when you have multiple furling jibs with no uv protection. A lot of our hard core racers use the socks and I have never seen issues in a blow. It adds a few extra minutes to putting the boat away, but less time than folding the sail. Martin 'Mac' McKenzie Worthy Pearl 1983 CC 37 MK I___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit
John, you sure about that hull number? I didn't think they made that many. I'm hull #59. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.comwrote: John, FYI, My 32 came with a gate on the upper rail from the factory. Hull number 1197. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead, MA 95 days to launch 97 days to first Wednesday Night Race From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
My poo tank is in the v-berth and we try to keep that one empty. I imagine that fuel tankage becomes an issue when making the Galapagos to Marquesas passage. But then, I'm basing that on things I've read on the internet ... It just seems that if I'm going to pick a boat and spend a bunch of money I want to keep my cruising options as wide open as possible. I do love those 40s though, and in my mind 40 was always the magic number in regards to boat length. Seriously, what do you guys think of this boat: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/C-%26-C-40-2408263/Lower/CT/United-States#.UvOMW2RDuiM I know, something's wrong with it I just wonder what. offers encouraged. It's clear from the spec list that lots of stuff needs repair but those are all odds and ends. If the deck, rigging and motor are sound that's a good deal. The 40 was a solid hull, no? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 5:58 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I wrote: Watermakers are small, affordable and efficient these days. I've never regretted pulling the v-berth tank and converting to storage. PS. Removing the weight of the big water tank in the V Berth allowed me to carry full chain anchor rode. Very useful. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit.drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet.it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Sometimes we'll heave to to reef. But if I have a Harken or Antal track or the like, I'm more likely to turn dead downwind and pull the sail down that way. The benefits to doing that include the fact that waves won't be sweeping the deck and the apparent wind is less. my old Dad always used to tell me that the best time to reef is when you first think about it. I've never regretted taking that advice. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
I think it's been on the market a while. It can't hurt to call the broker and ask him straight out about the problems he knows about. Otherwise, go down and look at it with a plastic hammer in hand and check it out. If the hull has moisture in it, that's a big job to fix. if the deck has moisture and if it's not too widespread, that's not to big a deal. I think a lot of people are put off our boats simply because of the balsa core. And that's reflected in the asking price. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:22 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: My poo tank is in the v-berth and we try to keep that one empty. I imagine that fuel tankage becomes an issue when making the Galapagos to Marquesas passage. But then, I'm basing that on things I've read on the internet ... It just seems that if I'm going to pick a boat and spend a bunch of money I want to keep my cruising options as wide open as possible. I do love those 40s though, and in my mind 40 was always the magic number in regards to boat length. Seriously, what do you guys think of this boat: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/C-%26-C-40-2408263/Lower/CT/United-States#.UvOMW2RDuiM I know, something's wrong with it I just wonder what. offers encouraged. It's clear from the spec list that lots of stuff needs repair but those are all odds and ends. If the deck, rigging and motor are sound that's a good deal. The 40 was a solid hull, no? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 5:58 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I wrote: Watermakers are small, affordable and efficient these days. I've never regretted pulling the v-berth tank and converting to storage. PS. Removing the weight of the big water tank in the V Berth allowed me to carry full chain anchor rode. Very useful. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List [SPAM]Re: CC 32 stern pulpit
Steve, My hull # is 224. I suspect that Tom's hull # may be 197. John From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:14 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: [SPAM]Re: Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit John, you sure about that hull number? I didn't think they made that many. I'm hull #59. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote: John, FYI, My 32 came with a gate on the upper rail from the factory. Hull number 1197. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead, MA 95 days to launch 97 days to first Wednesday Night Race From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
When I did my CYA basic heaving to was one of the first things we learned, then we learned to reef the main while hove to. No flapping. Not saying it's the right way, just the way I was taught. When I was learning I took everything the instructor said as gospel. I'm still learning and now, mostly off of this list :) Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:30 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: Sometimes we'll heave to to reef. But if I have a Harken or Antal track or the like, I'm more likely to turn dead downwind and pull the sail down that way. The benefits to doing that include the fact that waves won't be sweeping the deck and the apparent wind is less. my old Dad always used to tell me that the best time to reef is when you first think about it. I've never regretted taking that advice. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I really can't say you shouldn't do just as the instructor said. Like most things in sailing there is more than one way to be successful. I like my way because it doesn't involve turning across the waves. and it keeps the deck fairly dry. One of the things I love about sailing is that we are all still learning; that's one of the things that makes it such an entertaining and life-long sport. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:51 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: When I did my CYA basic heaving to was one of the first things we learned, then we learned to reef the main while hove to. No flapping. Not saying it's the right way, just the way I was taught. When I was learning I took everything the instructor said as gospel. I'm still learning and now, mostly off of this list :) Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:30 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: Sometimes we'll heave to to reef. But if I have a Harken or Antal track or the like, I'm more likely to turn dead downwind and pull the sail down that way. The benefits to doing that include the fact that waves won't be sweeping the deck and the apparent wind is less. my old Dad always used to tell me that the best time to reef is when you first think about it. I've never regretted taking that advice. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
You lose headway that way, it's not necessary to heave to in order to reef safely and the flap won't hurt your sail that much but if heaving to works for you and you like it then go for it.I was just saying what I do.bear in mind, I don't reef often.I will carry a fisherman's reef a long time before biting the bullet Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:51 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to When I did my CYA basic heaving to was one of the first things we learned, then we learned to reef the main while hove to. No flapping. Not saying it's the right way, just the way I was taught. When I was learning I took everything the instructor said as gospel. I'm still learning and now, mostly off of this list :) Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:30 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.com wrote: Sometimes we'll heave to to reef. But if I have a Harken or Antal track or the like, I'm more likely to turn dead downwind and pull the sail down that way. The benefits to doing that include the fact that waves won't be sweeping the deck and the apparent wind is less. my old Dad always used to tell me that the best time to reef is when you first think about it. I've never regretted taking that advice. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
No, she's on the wrong boat! What a cute cook! Younger than my daughters, though ;^( Bill Coleman CC 39 -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally Bryant Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 4:57 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Genoa sock
David, I have been using one for the last eight years on my racing genoa. With two people it takes about three to four minutes to put up, much less to take down. MUCH better than the heavy UV Sunbrella or some other sort of sacrificial material. Genoa flies much better in lighter air. Any good sailmaker or canvas person can easily make you one. Probably cheaper than ATN., and you want it made the exact height of you luff. Too big, and it will flop around in wind. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil On the hard in Marblehead, MA Message: 3 Date: Wed, 5 Feb 2014 17:57:17 -0500 From: David Knecht davidakne...@gmail.com To: CnC CnC discussion list CnC-List@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List genoa sock Message-ID: 297380ae-0358-4fb1-a810-3d528630e...@gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Has anyone used a product like the ATN genoa sleeve? I am considering if I get a new genoa, not having a protective leech section put on and instead using a product like this. Plusses and minuses? I have seen comments that they create more windage in a storm, but ATN is claiming it would be protective. I have seen plenty of genoas destroyed at our club by something coming loose while at the mooring in a blow, and this seems like a way to prevent that. Dave David Knecht Aries 1990 CC 34+ New London, CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
Good advice from Andy. Probably no hour meter on the motor. When looking at the cost of replacing running rigging, remember it is probably twice the cost of replacing the rigging on your boat. Also, 7 foot draft could be a challenge in the Bahamas. If they bothered to buy Kevlar sails they must have been racing. Check them for delamination. I'd guess a new main and jib would be 6-10k. Used spinnakers are easy to find. Joel On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:35 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: I think it's been on the market a while. It can't hurt to call the broker and ask him straight out about the problems he knows about. Otherwise, go down and look at it with a plastic hammer in hand and check it out. If the hull has moisture in it, that's a big job to fix. if the deck has moisture and if it's not too widespread, that's not to big a deal. I think a lot of people are put off our boats simply because of the balsa core. And that's reflected in the asking price. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:22 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: My poo tank is in the v-berth and we try to keep that one empty. I imagine that fuel tankage becomes an issue when making the Galapagos to Marquesas passage. But then, I'm basing that on things I've read on the internet ... It just seems that if I'm going to pick a boat and spend a bunch of money I want to keep my cruising options as wide open as possible. I do love those 40s though, and in my mind 40 was always the magic number in regards to boat length. Seriously, what do you guys think of this boat: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/C-%26-C-40-2408263/Lower/CT/United-States#.UvOMW2RDuiM I know, something's wrong with it I just wonder what. offers encouraged. It's clear from the spec list that lots of stuff needs repair but those are all odds and ends. If the deck, rigging and motor are sound that's a good deal. The 40 was a solid hull, no? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 5:58 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I wrote: Watermakers are small, affordable and efficient these days. I've never regretted pulling the v-berth tank and converting to storage. PS. Removing the weight of the big water tank in the V Berth allowed me to carry full chain anchor rode. Very useful. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
Are CC30 mk1 spinnaker halyards always external? Jay CC30 Lady Jane BHYC Jay Kirkpatrick Aviation Relationship Corporate Fuel Manager Purolator Inc. 5995 Avebury Drive, Mississauga, ON 905.691.0659 jkirkpatr...@purolator.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
Well, my only internal halyards are the spin pole up-haul and the Spin Halyard? On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 10:28 AM, Kirkpatrick, Jay jkirkpatr...@purolator.com wrote: Are CC30 mk1 spinnaker halyards always external? Jay CC30 Lady Jane BHYC Jay Kirkpatrick Aviation Relationship Corporate Fuel Manager Purolator Inc. 5995 Avebury Drive, Mississauga, ON 905.691.0659 jkirkpatr...@purolator.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
Mine are on my 1979 era 30. Sent from Joe Bognar On Feb 6, 2014, at 10:28 AM, Kirkpatrick, Jay jkirkpatr...@purolator.com wrote: Are CC30 mk1 spinnaker halyards always external? Jay CC30 Lady Jane BHYC Jay Kirkpatrick Aviation Relationship Corporate Fuel Manager Purolator Inc. 5995 Avebury Drive, Mississauga, ON 905.691.0659 jkirkpatr...@purolator.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Do they sell those at Defender? :^) Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 5, 2014, at 10:57 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
Steve — how about this: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/C%26c-Landfall-2198133/Long-Island/NY/United-States#.UvOt3vaXqME They need to come down on the price a bit… Or you could go for something a little larger, from the same broker (!): http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/2002/Custom-Cruise-Ship-2687416/Unknown/Chile#.UvOuIfaXqME Fred Street -- Minneapolis S/V Oceanis (1979 CC Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI :^( On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:22 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: It just seems that if I'm going to pick a boat and spend a bunch of money I want to keep my cruising options as wide open as possible. I do love those 40s though, and in my mind 40 was always the magic number in regards to boat length. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
1981 CC30MK1 On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 10:42 AM, Joseph Bognar jbog...@sympatico.ca wrote: Mine are on my 1979 era 30. Sent from Joe Bognar On Feb 6, 2014, at 10:28 AM, Kirkpatrick, Jay jkirkpatr...@purolator.com wrote: Are CC30 mk1 spinnaker halyards always external? Jay CC30 Lady Jane BHYC Jay Kirkpatrick Aviation Relationship Corporate Fuel Manager Purolator Inc. 5995 Avebury Drive, Mississauga, ON 905.691.0659 jkirkpatr...@purolator.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
There is not a lot of room for additional sheaves in the top casting, plus it is useful to get the top of the spinnaker out in front, so I used the little 'horns' which are in the top casting. Someone may have them inboard, but I don't think the boat was designed that way. I have two jib halyards on the forward side of the mast and the main on the aft side plus the pole lift - all in the mast. Spinnaker is outside. Gary #593 - Original Message - From: Kirkpatrick, Jay jkirkpatr...@purolator.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 10:28 AM Subject: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards Are CC30 mk1 spinnaker halyards always external? Jay CC30 Lady Jane BHYC Jay Kirkpatrick Aviation Relationship Corporate Fuel Manager Purolator Inc. 5995 Avebury Drive, Mississauga, ON 905.691.0659 jkirkpatr...@purolator.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
In the northeast, many buyers will shy away from boats with 7' draft (except the die hard racers of course). That may be another factor on the asking price. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 8:22 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com wrote: My poo tank is in the v-berth and we try to keep that one empty. I imagine that fuel tankage becomes an issue when making the Galapagos to Marquesas passage. But then, I'm basing that on things I've read on the internet ... It just seems that if I'm going to pick a boat and spend a bunch of money I want to keep my cruising options as wide open as possible. I do love those 40s though, and in my mind 40 was always the magic number in regards to boat length. Seriously, what do you guys think of this boat: http://www.yachtworld.com/boats/1980/C-%26-C-40-2408263/Lower/CT/United-States#.UvOMW2RDuiM I know, something's wrong with it I just wonder what. offers encouraged. It's clear from the spec list that lots of stuff needs repair but those are all odds and ends. If the deck, rigging and motor are sound that's a good deal. The 40 was a solid hull, no? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 5:58 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I wrote: Watermakers are small, affordable and efficient these days. I've never regretted pulling the v-berth tank and converting to storage. PS. Removing the weight of the big water tank in the V Berth allowed me to carry full chain anchor rode. Very useful. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit
I'm going to be putting together a CC 32 specific site, just because (not to compete with CC Photoalbum). I think these boats are underrated and when I was looking at purchasing I could find little info from other owners. Having a boat specific site with lots of good info from other owners is good news when it's time to sell, too. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 9:35 AM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.comwrote: Sorry, I meant hull ID number 197, which somewhere I translated to actual hull number 46. Manufactured in January. Message: 10 Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 08:13:58 -0500 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit Message-ID: caddevn58nbmp0u1x6huj2zvg-roo_ipjqbcwbdit_xvqtz_...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 John, you sure about that hull number? I didn't think they made that many. I'm hull #59. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote: John, FYI, My 32 came with a gate on the upper rail from the factory. Hull number 1197. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead, MA 95 days to launch 97 days to first Wednesday Night Race From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Two questions Steve - what was the reason the CYA folks taught you to heave-to in order to reef? I would never think to do that but am sure there must be a situation where it makes sense, eg single handed and no autohelm? Andy - whats the Harken or Antal track do? When you head down isn't the main going to be on your spreaders and shrouds? I have always reefed by staying on course, and letting the main shake while putting in the reef. It seems to me that a shaking sail is easiest to get down due to loose cars/slugs, and the boat's also heeling less at that point. One thing DG does not have is a tack reef so that is a small project for this year, ie to completely manage the main from the cockpit. We generally have good wind where we are and I do find the 34 needs a reef fairly often. Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON -- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 08:51:03 -0500 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Message-ID: caddevn6ugjcu0o92jfsk1nek6qfgecpy7p-tzcugcxwz3nh...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 When I did my CYA basic heaving to was one of the first things we learned, then we learned to reef the main while hove to. No flapping. Not saying it's the right way, just the way I was taught. When I was learning I took everything the instructor said as gospel. I'm still learning and now, mostly off of this list :) Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:30 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: Sometimes we'll heave to to reef. But if I have a Harken or Antal track or the like, I'm more likely to turn dead downwind and pull the sail down that way. The benefits to doing that include the fact that waves won't be sweeping the deck and the apparent wind is less. my old Dad always used to tell me that the best time to reef is when you first think about it. I've never regretted taking that advice. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
Joel, I think that you overestimate the cost of the new sails. I know that you can buy a new set for $6-10k, but you don’t have to. Unless you are talking about serious racing stuff. My experience is that you can have the new sails for much more reasonable price. I got a new set (main and 135% jib) for my 27 ft. boat (mind you, these are in-shore sails) for $1800. And these are not some sails made off-shore that many criticise for poor workmanship; I got them made in the US. I can imagine that off-shore sails would cost more (normally 50% more), but it should not be triple. Marek in Ottawa -- Message: 7 Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 09:49:17 -0500 From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications Message-ID: CAEL16P81z8vpY=_wcmqzqok7p7kecqh90d1nxpavxdxv2tr...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Good advice from Andy. Probably no hour meter on the motor. When looking at the cost of replacing running rigging, remember it is probably twice the cost of replacing the rigging on your boat. Also, 7 foot draft could be a challenge in the Bahamas. If they bothered to buy Kevlar sails they must have been racing. Check them for delamination. I'd guess a new main and jib would be 6-10k. Used spinnakers are easy to find. Joel ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Having the Harken, Antal, or Strong track allows the main to come down without binding in the track. If it's plastered too hard against the spreaders, I just sheet it in a bit. If this isn't possible, then yes, I head up to unload the sail. But it's a much calmer operation to do it while heading off the breeze. A mistake that a lot of people make is trying to make way while maneuvering. Unless you're racing or have land to leeward, that's just not necessary and can actually lose you time if the conditions are bad enough. In 20 knots of breeze, heading away from the wind rather than into it changes your apparent wind speed from 25 to14; that's a huge difference. I would think the reason CYA taught to heave to while reefing was for a similar reason; everything on the boat is much calmer when hove to. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:45 AM, OldSteveH oldste...@sympatico.ca wrote: Two questions Steve - what was the reason the CYA folks taught you to heave-to in order to reef? I would never think to do that but am sure there must be a situation where it makes sense, eg single handed and no autohelm? Andy - whats the Harken or Antal track do? When you head down isn't the main going to be on your spreaders and shrouds? I have always reefed by staying on course, and letting the main shake while putting in the reef. It seems to me that a shaking sail is easiest to get down due to loose cars/slugs, and the boat's also heeling less at that point. One thing DG does not have is a tack reef so that is a small project for this year, ie to completely manage the main from the cockpit. We generally have good wind where we are and I do find the 34 needs a reef fairly often. Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON -- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 08:51:03 -0500 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Message-ID: caddevn6ugjcu0o92jfsk1nek6qfgecpy7p-tzcugcxwz3nh...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 When I did my CYA basic heaving to was one of the first things we learned, then we learned to reef the main while hove to. No flapping. Not saying it's the right way, just the way I was taught. When I was learning I took everything the instructor said as gospel. I'm still learning and now, mostly off of this list :) Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:30 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: Sometimes we'll heave to to reef. But if I have a Harken or Antal track or the like, I'm more likely to turn dead downwind and pull the sail down that way. The benefits to doing that include the fact that waves won't be sweeping the deck and the apparent wind is less. my old Dad always used to tell me that the best time to reef is when you first think about it. I've never regretted taking that advice. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Andrew Burton 61 W Narragansett Ave Newport, RI USA 02840 http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ phone +401 965 5260 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Steve, If I remember the explanation correctly it was because the boat settles right down and there's no drama with flogging sails, you can relax and take your time, even when short handed. If staying on course to reef, does that count when the wind is aft of the beam or does one head up? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:45 AM, OldSteveH oldste...@sympatico.ca wrote: Two questions Steve - what was the reason the CYA folks taught you to heave-to in order to reef? I would never think to do that but am sure there must be a situation where it makes sense, eg single handed and no autohelm? Andy - whats the Harken or Antal track do? When you head down isn't the main going to be on your spreaders and shrouds? I have always reefed by staying on course, and letting the main shake while putting in the reef. It seems to me that a shaking sail is easiest to get down due to loose cars/slugs, and the boat's also heeling less at that point. One thing DG does not have is a tack reef so that is a small project for this year, ie to completely manage the main from the cockpit. We generally have good wind where we are and I do find the 34 needs a reef fairly often. Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON -- Message: 1 Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 08:51:03 -0500 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Message-ID: caddevn6ugjcu0o92jfsk1nek6qfgecpy7p-tzcugcxwz3nh...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 When I did my CYA basic heaving to was one of the first things we learned, then we learned to reef the main while hove to. No flapping. Not saying it's the right way, just the way I was taught. When I was learning I took everything the instructor said as gospel. I'm still learning and now, mostly off of this list :) Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:30 AM, Andrew Burton a.burton.sai...@gmail.comwrote: Sometimes we'll heave to to reef. But if I have a Harken or Antal track or the like, I'm more likely to turn dead downwind and pull the sail down that way. The benefits to doing that include the fact that waves won't be sweeping the deck and the apparent wind is less. my old Dad always used to tell me that the best time to reef is when you first think about it. I've never regretted taking that advice. Andy CC 40 Peregrine On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 8:17 AM, Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.comwrote: Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
I would think that all that added surface area dramatically increases load too, so I would think more reinforcement, stitching, work in general. I don't think that sail prices and size correlate in parallel but I could be wrong. I like to get estimates on sail prices from fxsails because they typically have any boat listed that I'm interested in. Over there, an offshore, cruising, cross cut 130% furling headsail with foam luff is 3k for the CC 40. Already looked into. And FX is one of the value lofts. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:58 AM, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.comwrote: Marek, You got a good deal! Don't forget, a 40 probably has over twice the sail area as a 27. Sails for a Catalina 38 are about 2k each from Rolly Tasker. (They are stock sails with prices on-line) A 40 tall rig with custom sails will probably start at 2500 each from an offshore loft. I may have been a little high, but not by more than 1 boat buck. It still looks like its worth checking it out. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:49 AM, Marek Dziedzic dziedzi...@hotmail.comwrote: Joel, I think that you overestimate the cost of the new sails. I know that you can buy a new set for $6-10k, but you don't have to. Unless you are talking about serious racing stuff. My experience is that you can have the new sails for much more reasonable price. I got a new set (main and 135% jib) for my 27 ft. boat (mind you, these are in-shore sails) for $1800. And these are not some sails made off-shore that many criticise for poor workmanship; I got them made in the US. I can imagine that off-shore sails would cost more (normally 50% more), but it should not be triple. Marek in Ottawa -- Message: 7 Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 09:49:17 -0500 From: Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications Message-ID: CAEL16P81z8vpY=_wcmqzqok7p7kecqh90d1nxpavxdxv2tr...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Good advice from Andy. Probably no hour meter on the motor. When looking at the cost of replacing running rigging, remember it is probably twice the cost of replacing the rigging on your boat. Also, 7 foot draft could be a challenge in the Bahamas. If they bothered to buy Kevlar sails they must have been racing. Check them for delamination. I'd guess a new main and jib would be 6-10k. Used spinnakers are easy to find. Joel ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
I have a 1972 CC 30 that has internal spin halyards. They enter the mast about 6' above deck then exit about 1' below the mast head then go through blocks hung from a spinnaker crane mounted to the top of the masthead unit. This allows the halyards to be above and in front of the jib stay when under load. David E Midkiff (757) 270-9897 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
Me too Gary, On 2/6/14, Gary Nylander gnylan...@atlanticbb.net wrote: There is not a lot of room for additional sheaves in the top casting, plus it is useful to get the top of the spinnaker out in front, so I used the little 'horns' which are in the top casting. Someone may have them inboard, but I don't think the boat was designed that way. I have two jib halyards on the forward side of the mast and the main on the aft side plus the pole lift - all in the mast. Spinnaker is outside. Gary #593 - Original Message - From: Kirkpatrick, Jay jkirkpatr...@purolator.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 10:28 AM Subject: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards Are CC30 mk1 spinnaker halyards always external? Jay CC30 Lady Jane BHYC Jay Kirkpatrick Aviation Relationship Corporate Fuel Manager Purolator Inc. 5995 Avebury Drive, Mississauga, ON 905.691.0659 jkirkpatr...@purolator.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Datamarine Auction
Just inquiring about status of auction? David E Midkiff (757) 270-9897 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Steve, I have seldom ever wanted to reef with the wind aft, usually am shaking out the reef. But needing to get it back in again before changing course to windward, and then yes I would try to head up enough to get the main shaking and put in the reef. If it's that windy I'm not likely to be flying a chute, so the whole process is not complicated. Andy I get that now - nice system. I did run into a situation two years ago where my wife and I were racing (short handed). We had a strong quartering sea, flying our #3 and full main on a beam to broad reach. Auto does not do well at the helm in those conditions and we needed to get a reef in before the leeward mark. Other boats with full mains were rounding up, we were doing ok, but definitely needed that reef really soon. Because I couldn't leave the helm (my wife was a learning sailor at the time) we couldn't reef and ended up retiring from the race. In hindsight could we have hove to and put in the reef? Maybe but again it was a race, that would have lost a lot of time. Like other posters, I will be experimenting with heaving-to this summer to see how it works. Having learned to sail first by racing, I don't naturally consider heaving to or heading off my course to put in a reef, but they certainly all work, and some with less stress than others! Just don't tell my wife there's an easier way . . . ;-) When cruising I guess I suffer the curse of a racer - always trying to get the boat trimmed the best it can be and to steer the shortest course between A and B. Cheers, Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON -- Message: 6 Date: Thu, 6 Feb 2014 11:55:18 -0500 From: Stevan Plavsa stevanpla...@gmail.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Message-ID: CADdEvn5zWk0Dgh6B-AWaWsZ8jwxoi-eSHxio+C40cWDrU=p...@mail.gmail.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Steve, If I remember the explanation correctly it was because the boat settles right down and there's no drama with flogging sails, you can relax and take your time, even when short handed. If staying on course to reef, does that count when the wind is aft of the beam or does one head up? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 11:45 AM, OldSteveH oldste...@sympatico.ca wrote: Two questions Steve - what was the reason the CYA folks taught you to heave-to in order to reef? I would never think to do that but am sure there must be a situation where it makes sense, eg single handed and no autohelm? Andy - whats the Harken or Antal track do? When you head down isn't the main going to be on your spreaders and shrouds? I have always reefed by staying on course, and letting the main shake while putting in the reef. It seems to me that a shaking sail is easiest to get down due to loose cars/slugs, and the boat's also heeling less at that point. One thing DG does not have is a tack reef so that is a small project for this year, ie to completely manage the main from the cockpit. We generally have good wind where we are and I do find the 34 needs a reef fairly often. Cheers Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Robert Abbott Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit
Steve: It was Tom Anderson with hull # 1197..our 32 is a 1984 @ hull #277I highly doubt there were too many more built after thatFYI Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/06 9:13 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote: John, you sure about that hull number? I didn't think they made that many. I'm hull #59. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com mailto:t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote: John, FYI, My 32 came with a gate on the upper rail from the factory. Hull number 1197. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead, MA 95 days to launch 97 days to first Wednesday Night Race From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.comwrote: Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John Russo *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4SocqvNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.comwrote: Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John Russo *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
The CC 40 on YachtWorld looks gorgeous. If I base it on my experience with mine and barring anything expensive like serious blister issues and delaminations or extensive standing rigging work I would say that another 10 - 15K or so would likely get you a ship shape boat ready for off-shore work. How do I get there? - The autopilot's is probably original, ancient, and shot. A new one is likely to be in order, especially for off-shore work. - The electronics look old, wouldn't it be nice to have a chartplotter that's fully aware of the wind direction / speed / Hull speed / SOG (meaning it automatically corrects for currents and tides on its own) and can drive your autopilot to wind / preset waypoints? - Fridge is shot - Pressure water, could be a fair amount of plumbing here - Take the sails to a loft to make sure they're offshore ready - Fix the heater - Martec prop, is it a folder? If so I would not be surprised if it needs a 350.00-500.00 rebuild - Are the ports and hatches decent and water tight? - Halyards / sheets good ? (They get expensive pretty fast when you need them that big and long... ) - How recent are the lifelines? I spent a grand replacing mine.. - How recent are the batteries? - Bilge Pump / Carbon Monoxide / smoke detector(s) - Etc, Etc - The rest of the minor 25-35 items list at $35.00 - 500.00 bucks per.. -Francois Rivard 1990 CC 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4SocqvNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.com wrote: Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John Russo *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit
I have a split stern pulpit on my 1981 CC30 MK1 with a hinged ladder. Works well for us. We love to go swiming. On 2/6/14, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: Steve: It was Tom Anderson with hull # 1197..our 32 is a 1984 @ hull #277I highly doubt there were too many more built after thatFYI Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/06 9:13 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote: John, you sure about that hull number? I didn't think they made that many. I'm hull #59. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com mailto:t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote: John, FYI, My 32 came with a gate on the upper rail from the factory. Hull number 1197. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead, MA 95 days to launch 97 days to first Wednesday Night Race From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 32 stern pulpit
Here is a photo of it http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s31/LTGoshen/March%202012%20Haul%20Out/DSCN2435.jpg On 2/6/14, Curtis cpt.b...@gmail.com wrote: I have a split stern pulpit on my 1981 CC30 MK1 with a hinged ladder. Works well for us. We love to go swiming. On 2/6/14, Robert Abbott robertabb...@eastlink.ca wrote: Steve: It was Tom Anderson with hull # 1197..our 32 is a 1984 @ hull #277I highly doubt there were too many more built after thatFYI Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/06 9:13 AM, Stevan Plavsa wrote: John, you sure about that hull number? I didn't think they made that many. I'm hull #59. Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Wed, Feb 5, 2014 at 6:03 PM, Tom Anderson t...@nonpareilracing.com mailto:t...@nonpareilracing.com wrote: John, FYI, My 32 came with a gate on the upper rail from the factory. Hull number 1197. Tom Anderson CC 32 Nonpareil Marblehead, MA 95 days to launch 97 days to first Wednesday Night Race From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John Russo Sent: Wednesday, February 05, 2014 2:34 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . -- All men dream: but not equally. Those who dream by night in the dusty recesses of their minds wake up in the day to find it was vanity, but the dreamers of the day are dangerous men,for they may act their dreams with open eyes, to make it possible. T. E. Lawrence . ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC 40, et al, cruising modifications
yeah the way I was looking at it was 25k purchase price 10k rigging 10k sails 15k motor 10k electronics, plumbing, etc This assuming that hull and deck are sound. I own a moisture meter and when shopping for my current boat used it to pre-qualify any boats before paying for a survey. The 200 investment saved me a lot of money. So, 70k and you have a new CC 40 that to my eye, is way cooler than a new 40 foot benny or whatever that costs 4 times more. If only it were that simple. A man can dream. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vAUOPHqx5Gs Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:31 PM, Jean-Francois J Rivard jfriv...@us.ibm.comwrote: The CC 40 on YachtWorld looks gorgeous. If I base it on my experience with mine and barring anything expensive like serious blister issues and delaminations or extensive standing rigging work I would say that another 10 - 15K or so would likely get you a ship shape boat ready for off-shore work. How do I get there? - The autopilot's is probably original, ancient, and shot. A new one is likely to be in order, especially for off-shore work. - The electronics look old, wouldn't it be nice to have a chartplotter that's fully aware of the wind direction / speed / Hull speed / SOG (meaning it automatically corrects for currents and tides on its own) and can drive your autopilot to wind / preset waypoints? - Fridge is shot - Pressure water, could be a fair amount of plumbing here - Take the sails to a loft to make sure they're offshore ready - Fix the heater - Martec prop, is it a folder? If so I would not be surprised if it needs a 350.00-500.00 rebuild - Are the ports and hatches decent and water tight? - Halyards / sheets good ? (They get expensive pretty fast when you need them that big and long... ) - How recent are the lifelines? I spent a grand replacing mine.. - How recent are the batteries? - Bilge Pump / Carbon Monoxide / smoke detector(s) - Etc, Etc - The rest of the minor 25-35 items list at $35.00 - 500.00 bucks per.. -Francois Rivard 1990 CC 34+ Take Five Lake Lanier ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
I have never had the ladder fall down, so I just let gravity do the work. I have a line off the back so you can pull the ladder down from in the water, I think any physical restraint is going to make that more difficult. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 11:37, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4SocqvNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.com wrote: Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John Russo *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Fw: 35-3 ice Box
Jake Thanks for the photos. I’m sure my set up is the same. Has anyone in the group tried to apply spray foam in the voids between the icebox and stove and icebox and hull. Thanks Mike S/V Persuasion CC 37 Keel/CB Long Sault From: Jake Brodersen Sent: Thursday, February 6, 2014 6:12 AM To: d.ve...@bellaliant.net ; 'Richard N. Bush' ; 'Doug Allardyce' ; 'Joel Aronson' ; 'Graham Collins' ; 'RAYMOND SHIBE' ; 'Pete Shelquist' ; 'D Harben' ; 'Persuasion' Subject: 35-3 ice Box Guys, Attached are an assortment of pics from my refrigeration installation. From my cursory examination of the ice box, it is clear that some insulation could be added without too much trouble or expense. Spray foam insulation with a long nozzle would work. Any insulating value that you add will decrease the electrical demand of the system. The wall adjoining the stove could have a couple of holes drilled into it for to insert the foam nozzle, as well as a couple of holes under the sink. The lines from the condenser to the evaporator go right through the bulkhead and come out inside the ice box. They are sealed with plumbers putty, which came with the Adler/Barbour kit. Any questions, let me know. The unit has been in service for about eight years now with no problems at all. Jake Jake Brodersen “Midnight Mistress” CC 35 Mk-III Hampton Va image001.png___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Jim, Yes it will. I have a line on the ladder to make it easier to pull the ladder up - but I don't use a dinghy and would only use the ladder for swimming or MOB retrieval. If I had a dinghy I would do as you do. All a matter of perspective! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: I have never had the ladder fall down, so I just let gravity do the work. I have a line off the back so you can pull the ladder down from in the water, I think any physical restraint is going to make that more difficult. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 11:37, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.comwrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4SocqvNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.com wrote: Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John Russo *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Fw: 35-3 ice Box
I used two part pour foam between hull and ice box on my 35-1. Depending on its density, pour foam has a few times times the R value of spray foam. Pour foam comes in various densities, 2 lb, 4 lb, etc. Some are USCG approved, some are not. Pour foam requires a bit more care and planning than spray foam but may be worth the effort. Pour foam will get into nooks and crannies that spray foam will not. Either foam requires room to expand or it will damage the ice box. Pour foam comes in various densities, 2 lb, 4 lb, etc. Some are USCG approved, some are not. Two part pour foam can be purchased from fiberglass, insulation and industrial suppliers for less than marine suppliers. I bought mine from Branton Industries. Here's more info: http://www.fibreglast.com/product/2_Lb_Polyurethane_Mix_and_Pour_Foam_24_25/Foam Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 3:08 PM, Persuasion persuasio...@gmail.com wrote: Jake Thanks for the photos. I'm sure my set up is the same. Has anyone in the group tried to apply spray foam in the voids between the icebox and stove and icebox and hull. Thanks Mike S/V Persuasion CC 37 Keel/CB Long Sault *From:* Jake Brodersen captain_j...@cox.net *Sent:* Thursday, February 6, 2014 6:12 AM *To:* d.ve...@bellaliant.net ; 'Richard N. Bush' bushma...@aol.com ; 'Doug Allardyce' doug.allard...@att.net ; 'Joel Aronson'joel.aron...@gmail.com; 'Graham Collins' cnclistforw...@hotmail.com ; 'RAYMOND SHIBE'rsh...@optonline.net; 'Pete Shelquist' pete.shelqu...@comcast.net ; 'D Harben'sailadventu...@rogers.com; 'Persuasion' persuasio...@gmail.com *Subject:* 35-3 ice Box Guys, Attached are an assortment of pics from my refrigeration installation. From my cursory examination of the ice box, it is clear that some insulation could be added without too much trouble or expense. Spray foam insulation with a long nozzle would work. Any insulating value that you add will decrease the electrical demand of the system. The wall adjoining the stove could have a couple of holes drilled into it for to insert the foam nozzle, as well as a couple of holes under the sink. The lines from the condenser to the evaporator go right through the bulkhead and come out inside the ice box. They are sealed with plumbers putty, which came with the Adler/Barbour kit. Any questions, let me know. The unit has been in service for about eight years now with no problems at all. Jake *Jake Brodersen* *Midnight Mistress* *CC 35 Mk-III* *Hampton Va* [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F] ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com image001.png___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards
That's the best way Gary...I used to have two spin halyards, one either side and both run outside but since I am not racing I did not replace the stbd one when it was old so now I only have 1 spin halyard, outside and not led to the cockpit -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary Nylander Sent: February 6, 2014 12:07 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards There is not a lot of room for additional sheaves in the top casting, plus it is useful to get the top of the spinnaker out in front, so I used the little 'horns' which are in the top casting. Someone may have them inboard, but I don't think the boat was designed that way. I have two jib halyards on the forward side of the mast and the main on the aft side plus the pole lift - all in the mast. Spinnaker is outside. Gary #593 - Original Message - From: Kirkpatrick, Jay jkirkpatr...@purolator.com To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 10:28 AM Subject: Stus-List CC30 Spin halyards Are CC30 mk1 spinnaker halyards always external? Jay CC30 Lady Jane BHYC Jay Kirkpatrick Aviation Relationship Corporate Fuel Manager Purolator Inc. 5995 Avebury Drive, Mississauga, ON 905.691.0659 jkirkpatr...@purolator.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Excuse me for belaboring this, Joel, I'm not sure you're quite seeing my point. If you're in the water, having just fallen overboard, how do you get the ladder down? I think this is just as important in the marina as it is out on the chuck, especially around here where it's cold water year round. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 13:15, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Jim, Yes it will. I have a line on the ladder to make it easier to pull the ladder up - but I don't use a dinghy and would only use the ladder for swimming or MOB retrieval. If I had a dinghy I would do as you do. All a matter of perspective! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: I have never had the ladder fall down, so I just let gravity do the work. I have a line off the back so you can pull the ladder down from in the water, I think any physical restraint is going to make that more difficult. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 11:37, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.comwrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4SocqvNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.com wrote: Take a look at http://www.barkers-island-marina.com/yachtworld/sail.htm the $19,900 CC 32 .. photo #2 ed Prime Interest 1982 CC Landfall Toronto, Canada *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *John Russo *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:52 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List [SPAM] Climing over the stern rail is a pain Thanks Bob, that would be helpful. John johnrussob...@optonline.net *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Robert Abbott *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 12:39 PM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* [SPAM]Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain John Our 32 has a lower rail and a gate up top.looks to be factory but not surecan send you a pic offline if you want. Rob Abbott AZURA CC 32 - 84 Halifax, N.S. On 2014/02/05 3:33 PM, John Russo wrote: I have a 32 with a double rail at the stern and am thinking about cutting the upper and adding a gate. My swim ladder actually comes slightly above the lower rail when up where it tie it. My concern is that I have a motor mount and a 65 Lb outboard on the stern rail port side vertical post which I will have to shift more to port but wondered about the rail strength after cutting. Any thoughts? I am also looking for a lighter outboard with a little less HP. John Arpeggio 32 Norwalk CT ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Jim, Yup, I'm screwed. However, if I'm solo chances are I'm never going to catch the boat. I've never timed myself in a pool, but I'm no Michael Phelps, especially with a PFD. I no longer put out my horseshoe when I'm solo. No one to throw it to me! However, I will revisit the bungee in the Spring. Joel On Thursday, February 6, 2014, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Excuse me for belaboring this, Joel, I'm not sure you're quite seeing my point. If you're in the water, having just fallen overboard, how do you get the ladder down? I think this is just as important in the marina as it is out on the chuck, especially around here where it's cold water year round. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 13:15, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Jim, Yes it will. I have a line on the ladder to make it easier to pull the ladder up - but I don't use a dinghy and would only use the ladder for swimming or MOB retrieval. If I had a dinghy I would do as you do. All a matter of perspective! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: I have never had the ladder fall down, so I just let gravity do the work. I have a line off the back so you can pull the ladder down from in the water, I think any physical restraint is going to make that more difficult. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 11:37, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4SocqvNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.comwrote: Take a look at -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
One of the first things I added to my Mirage 24 was a extendable stern ladder - tied it to the stern rail with a line that would allow release from the water. During my reading online I came across a couple of cases where people had died, having fallen off their boat at a mooring (or even at a dock with no ladder) -- unable to climb back into the boat due to no boarding ladder, cold and in soaked clothes. For sure if the boat is under sail then the ladder is pretty meaningless - but just sitting still that's a tough climb! Mark - Dr. Mark Bodnar B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C) Bedford Chiropractic - There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 06/02/2014 7:24 PM, Joel Aronson wrote: Jim, Yup, I'm screwed. However,if I'm solo chances are I'm never going to catch the boat. I've never timed myself in a pool, but I'm no Michael Phelps, especially with aPFD. I no longer put out my horseshoe when I'm solo. No one to throw it to me! However, I will revisit the bungee in the Spring. Joel On Thursday, February 6, 2014, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Excuse me for belaboring this, Joel, I'm not sure you're quite seeing my point. If you're in the water, having just fallen overboard, how do you get the ladder down? I think this is just as important in the marina as it is out on the chuck, especially around here where it's cold water year round. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 13:15, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Jim, Yes it will. I have a line on the ladder to make it easier to pull the ladder up - but I don't use a dinghy and would only use the ladder for swimming or MOB retrieval. If I had a dinghy I would do as you do. All a matter of perspective! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: I have never had the ladder fall down, so I just let gravity do the work. I have a line off the back so you can pull the ladder down from in the water, I think any physical restraint is going to make that more difficult. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 11:37, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
... I have seldom ever wanted to reef with the wind aft ... On a delivery of a 56' modern fast cruiser (carbon mast/boom etc.) from Seattle to San Francisco we had 20 hours of fast downwind sailing with winds in the 35 to 45 range with seas to match. All four aboard were experience racers and offshore sailors (the owner had seen 250K offshore miles). There was heated competition for high speed of the day while avoiding making a pile of carbon splinters. (I had held one day's speed record at 24 knots on an extended surf in the middle of a 45 knot gust.) The sail plan for those conditions was 1 or 2 reefs and a poled out #3, sometimes partially rolled up. IIRC the boat had an Antal system on the mast with full battens. We were able to add or shake reefs downwind at will to keep the boat moving fast but within the abilities of boat and crew to handle the conditions. With larger, powerful sail plans the lower friction mainsail luff systems (Calypso has the Harken Batt cars) I consider the ability to quickly reduce sail area upwind or down is a safety and seamanship issue. I am able to singlehandedly put the first reef in Calypso's mainsail in less than 3 minutes under most conditions. I did heave to reef once while sailing singlehanded in what started as a nice 20 TWS that quickly became 30 with gusts to 35. I rolled up some of the #3, tacked without releasing the sheet. Once the boat settle in a little I was able to put in the reef (all lines at the mast) with significantly less motion on deck. I do recall thinking to myself that setting out on Calypso, singlehanded in these conditions could be my last mistake and have been more conservative since. It was not the actual sailing, it was the ability to recover from a mistake or equipment failure so close to land that was a concern. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 10:08 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Steve, I have seldom ever wanted to reef with the wind aft, usually am shaking out the reef. But needing to get it back in again before changing course to windward, and then yes I would try to head up enough to get the main shaking and put in the reef. If it's that windy I'm not likely to be flying a chute, so the whole process is not complicated. Andy I get that now - nice system. I did run into a situation two years ago where my wife and I were racing (shorthanded). We had a strong quartering sea, flying our #3 and full main on a beam to broad reach. Auto does not do well at the helm in those conditions and we needed to get a reef in before the leeward mark. Other boats with full mains were rounding up, we were doing ok, but definitely needed that reef really soon. Because I couldn't leave the helm (my wife was a learning sailor at the time) we couldn't reef and ended up retiring from the race. In hindsight could we have hove to and put in the reef? Maybe but again it was a race, that would have lost a lot of time. Like other posters, I will be experimenting with heaving-to this summer to see how it works. Having learned to sail first by racing, I don't naturally consider heaving to or heading off my course to put in a reef, but they certainly all work, and some with less stress than others! Just don't tell my wife there's an easier way . . . ;-) When cruising I guess I suffer the curse of a racer - always trying to get the boat trimmed the best it can be and to steer the shortest course between A and B. Cheers, Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has dog bones for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit.drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet.it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Very true, Mark. I have set mine up for that exact reason as I spend a lot of hours sitting on my boat with my little dog while she is on the mooring. I call that being on the water too. I have a line attached so that I can pull my stern ladder down. That line trails just above the water and some sailors thinking it may be unintentionally there have often warned me about this trailing line. The ladder won't stay up on its own but one single wrap of white electrical tape around it and the top ss rail on the stern pushpit which I am sure I can break by pulling down on the trailing line if necessary holds it up very well all season long. _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark Bodnar Sent: February 6, 2014 7:50 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain One of the first things I added to my Mirage 24 was a extendable stern ladder - tied it to the stern rail with a line that would allow release from the water. During my reading online I came across a couple of cases where people had died, having fallen off their boat at a mooring (or even at a dock with no ladder) -- unable to climb back into the boat due to no boarding ladder, cold and in soaked clothes. For sure if the boat is under sail then the ladder is pretty meaningless - but just sitting still that's a tough climb! Mark - Dr. Mark Bodnar B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C) Bedford Chiropractic - There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 06/02/2014 7:24 PM, Joel Aronson wrote: Jim, Yup, I'm screwed. However, if I'm solo chances are I'm never going to catch the boat. I've never timed myself in a pool, but I'm no Michael Phelps, especially with a PFD. I no longer put out my horseshoe when I'm solo. No one to throw it to me! However, I will revisit the bungee in the Spring. Joel On Thursday, February 6, 2014, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Excuse me for belaboring this, Joel, I'm not sure you're quite seeing my point. If you're in the water, having just fallen overboard, how do you get the ladder down? I think this is just as important in the marina as it is out on the chuck, especially around here where it's cold water year round. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 13:15, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Jim, Yes it will. I have a line on the ladder to make it easier to pull the ladder up - but I don't use a dinghy and would only use the ladder for swimming or MOB retrieval. If I had a dinghy I would do as you do. All a matter of perspective! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: I have never had the ladder fall down, so I just let gravity do the work. I have a line off the back so you can pull the ladder down from in the water, I think any physical restraint is going to make that more difficult. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 11:37, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4Socq vNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'. Dennis C. Touche' 35-1 #83 Mandeville, LA On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 12:19 PM, Prime Interest primeinter...@gmail.com wrote: Take a look at -- Joel 301 541 8551 ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I have to agree, Andrew. Sailing is a lot like golf, the saying goes. Anyone can do it. And everyone can do it better. When Tiger Woods was burning up the tour, he still hit 300 practice balls every day. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Andrew Burton Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:57 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to One of the things I love about sailing is that we are all still learning; that's one of the things that makes it such an entertaining and life-long sport. Andy CC 40 Peregrine ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I never want to reef with the wind coming in over the stern...In fact I think that would be a very hard way to do it -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung Sent: February 6, 2014 7:58 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to ... I have seldom ever wanted to reef with the wind aft ... On a delivery of a 56' modern fast cruiser (carbon mast/boom etc.) from Seattle to San Francisco we had 20 hours of fast downwind sailing with winds in the 35 to 45 range with seas to match. All four aboard were experience racers and offshore sailors (the owner had seen 250K offshore miles). There was heated competition for high speed of the day while avoiding making a pile of carbon splinters. (I had held one day's speed record at 24 knots on an extended surf in the middle of a 45 knot gust.) The sail plan for those conditions was 1 or 2 reefs and a poled out #3, sometimes partially rolled up. IIRC the boat had an Antal system on the mast with full battens. We were able to add or shake reefs downwind at will to keep the boat moving fast but within the abilities of boat and crew to handle the conditions. With larger, powerful sail plans the lower friction mainsail luff systems (Calypso has the Harken Batt cars) I consider the ability to quickly reduce sail area upwind or down is a safety and seamanship issue. I am able to singlehandedly put the first reef in Calypso's mainsail in less than 3 minutes under most conditions. I did heave to reef once while sailing singlehanded in what started as a nice 20 TWS that quickly became 30 with gusts to 35. I rolled up some of the #3, tacked without releasing the sheet. Once the boat settle in a little I was able to put in the reef (all lines at the mast) with significantly less motion on deck. I do recall thinking to myself that setting out on Calypso, singlehanded in these conditions could be my last mistake and have been more conservative since. It was not the actual sailing, it was the ability to recover from a mistake or equipment failure so close to land that was a concern. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of OldSteveH Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 10:08 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Steve, I have seldom ever wanted to reef with the wind aft, usually am shaking out the reef. But needing to get it back in again before changing course to windward, and then yes I would try to head up enough to get the main shaking and put in the reef. If it's that windy I'm not likely to be flying a chute, so the whole process is not complicated. Andy I get that now - nice system. I did run into a situation two years ago where my wife and I were racing (shorthanded). We had a strong quartering sea, flying our #3 and full main on a beam to broad reach. Auto does not do well at the helm in those conditions and we needed to get a reef in before the leeward mark. Other boats with full mains were rounding up, we were doing ok, but definitely needed that reef really soon. Because I couldn't leave the helm (my wife was a learning sailor at the time) we couldn't reef and ended up retiring from the race. In hindsight could we have hove to and put in the reef? Maybe but again it was a race, that would have lost a lot of time. Like other posters, I will be experimenting with heaving-to this summer to see how it works. Having learned to sail first by racing, I don't naturally consider heaving to or heading off my course to put in a reef, but they certainly all work, and some with less stress than others! Just don't tell my wife there's an easier way . . . ;-) When cruising I guess I suffer the curse of a racer - always trying to get the boat trimmed the best it can be and to steer the shortest course between A and B. Cheers, Steve Hood S/V Diamond Girl CC 34 Lions Head ON ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I consider that knowing how to heave-to is one of the most important things I have learned especially when single-handing in a boat that does not have a reliable Otto. Tack without moving the jib over, then rudder/tiller hard over towards the boom and secured, then balance the two sails to reduce the speed as much as possible. In some conditions I have still been covering ground so you need to have plenty of sea-room. I've used this manoeuvre for many of the things that others have mentioned, but have to say that at 74 I think the red-head window is closing fast.. Patrick Wesley, The Boat, 24, Sidney BC On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has dog bones for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of * dwight *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit...drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet...it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna -- *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.comcnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa *Sent:* February 6, 2014 9:17 AM *To:* w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Patrick H. Wesley 4068 Licorice Lane, Victoria BC Canada V8X 0A2 1 250 370 0547; mobile 1 250 380 8959 hickl...@telus.net ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Searching Stus List CC archives,
I just put the small pebbles in my brain together trying to find some gems in the list from days gone by. Of course the conversations are searchable archived at The Mail Archive. https://www.mail-archive.com specifically at: https://www.mail-archive.com/cnc-list@cnc-list.com/___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. What Dwight describes is pretty much textbook for a double line reefing system. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has “dog bones” for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don’t you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don’t and I do it alone from the cockpit…drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet…it’s a little noisy with sail flap but isn’t it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain
Mine also. I was walking our dog around the marina one evening a few years ago, when I heard someone calling for help. I walked down onto the dock there was an older guy in the water, he couldn't pull himself out. He was so heavy that I had to get on his boat and lower ladder to the water so that he could climb out. I went back to my boat and tied a line to the ladder. Richard Davis Skycatcher 1987 38-3 Oxnard, CA On Feb 6, 2014, at 4:04 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Very true, Mark. I have set mine up for that exact reason as I spend a lot of hours sitting on my boat with my little dog while she is on the mooring. I call that being on the water too. I have a line attached so that I can pull my stern ladder down. That line trails just above the water and some sailors thinking it may be unintentionally there have often warned me about this trailing line. The ladder won’t stay up on its own but one single wrap of white electrical tape around it and the top ss rail on the stern pushpit which I am sure I can break by pulling down on the trailing line if necessary holds it up very well all season long. From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Dr. Mark Bodnar Sent: February 6, 2014 7:50 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Climing over the stern rail is a pain One of the first things I added to my Mirage 24 was a extendable stern ladder - tied it to the stern rail with a line that would allow release from the water. During my reading online I came across a couple of cases where people had died, having fallen off their boat at a mooring (or even at a dock with no ladder) -- unable to climb back into the boat due to no boarding ladder, cold and in soaked clothes. For sure if the boat is under sail then the ladder is pretty meaningless - but just sitting still that's a tough climb! Mark - Dr. Mark Bodnar B.Sc., D.C., FCCOPR(C) Bedford Chiropractic - There is no cure for birth and death save to enjoy the interval. - George Santayana On 06/02/2014 7:24 PM, Joel Aronson wrote: Jim, Yup, I'm screwed. However, if I'm solo chances are I'm never going to catch the boat. I've never timed myself in a pool, but I'm no Michael Phelps, especially with a PFD. I no longer put out my horseshoe when I'm solo. No one to throw it to me! However, I will revisit the bungee in the Spring. Joel On Thursday, February 6, 2014, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Excuse me for belaboring this, Joel, I'm not sure you're quite seeing my point. If you're in the water, having just fallen overboard, how do you get the ladder down? I think this is just as important in the marina as it is out on the chuck, especially around here where it's cold water year round. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 13:15, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Jim, Yes it will. I have a line on the ladder to make it easier to pull the ladder up - but I don't use a dinghy and would only use the ladder for swimming or MOB retrieval. If I had a dinghy I would do as you do. All a matter of perspective! Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: I have never had the ladder fall down, so I just let gravity do the work. I have a line off the back so you can pull the ladder down from in the water, I think any physical restraint is going to make that more difficult. Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 11:37, Joel Aronson joel.aron...@gmail.com wrote: Mine is the same. People thread the gate through the ladder to keep the ladder up. I prefer a bungee. Joel 35/3 Annapolis On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 2:17 PM, Jim Watts paradigmat...@gmail.com wrote: Here's ours...simple enough to cut the top rail and put in a gate. Remember to leave the ladder on the outside of the gate so you can pull it down from the water. Both our CC's came from the PO with the gate wire threaded through the ladder, for some inscrutable reason. https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-UXUqb120Ihw/Uh9uoRAymRI/BTs/4SocqvNPCic/w1270-h857-no/storm+riding.jpg Jim Watts Paradigm Shift CC 35 Mk III Victoria, BC On 6 February 2014 10:48, Dennis Cheuvront capt...@gmail.com wrote: That's what I was describing in my earlier reply. Easy to do. Ends caps with eyes are relatively inexpensive. Just cut the rail leaving a little stub, insert end cap with eye and make the lifeline gate. Done. If you don't have a lower rail and are worried about strength of the pulpit, you can install one with a couple of rail tees on the vertical pulpit section and a short section of rail. Would provide a lower rail to step over. Now that I visualize this, I might actually do this on Touche'.
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Rick My sail has dog bones too.I run a high Cunningham, I put a figure 8 stooper knot in the line and run it up through a padeye on the port side of the mast below and forward of the boom, then up through the first reef cringle (dog bones still installed) and down to and through another padeye similarly installed on the starboard side of the mast to a block at the base of the mast to turning blocks on deck and then to a Lemar clutch on the coach house that I can tension from the cockpit with or without winch assistance, depends if I need the winch to get proper tension..I have not set up the second reef.If I needed that much main reef I would get rid of the main altogether and go headsail alone. I removed the hooks at the gooseneck, because I do not need them with this setup and the did get in the way sometimes. The outhaul for the first reef is fasten starboard side of boom and aft of first cringle when reefed, from there up through cringle and down to turning block on port side of boom and from there inside boom to gooseneck and down to turning block at base of mast, aft through deck organizer to similar Lewmar clutch on coach house which I can tension with the same winch. Both lines are led aft on starboard side of deck and my main halyard is on that side too, so all 3 needed control lines are on starboard side coach house and can be with the same winch, one after the other. I have a backup winch that I can use if the primary breaks. I have 4 winches on the coach house, 2 on each side. Maybe hard to visualize and I don't really have a good photo, but believe me this setup works like a charm for the first reef. I have autopilot but if I reef going to weather I have found that the boat will hold the course on her own while I reef.if she didn't I would engage the autopilot. Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: February 6, 2014 8:02 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has dog bones for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit.drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet.it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Boat Electronics: Gemeco iNstall ipad app, for do-it-yourselfers too
Hi I am finding this iPad App extremely useful for planning some spring installs. Don Panbo: The Marine Electronics Hub: Gemeco iNstall ipad app, for do-it-yourselfers too http://www.panbo.com/archives/2014/01/gemeco_install_ipad_app_for_do-it-yourselvers_too.html?utm_source=feedburnerutm_medium=emailutm_campaign=Feed%3A+PanbosMarineElectronicsCommunicationsWeblog+%28Panbo%3A+The+Marine+Electronics+Hub%29 Gemeco iNstall ipad app, for do-it-yourselvers too ... written for Panbo by Ben Ellison and posted on Jan 23, 2014 First of all, Gemeco's iNstall app is free if you already have an iPhone or iPad. Second, though aimed at professional marine electronics installers, some of its tools are valuable to do-it-yourself types and even just regular boaters... iNstall includes an ABYC-based wire sizer. Dial in wire length, maximum expected current flow and pow, there's the minimum gauge you need for the job. There are several of these out there as standalone apps or online widgets, but this one seems to be full featured -- except perhaps for a help file explaining nuances like allowable voltage drop -- and it's just one of many applets in the bundle. There's also a calculator that estimates the bottom coverage of a particular transducer or of any transducer with a known beam width at a particular depth. This is a feature that I've always appreciated seeing on fishfinders or MFDs (always from Raymarine?) because it helps me understand what I'm seeing on the sonar screen. A big fish or rock that looks like it's right under the boat could, in fact, be anywhere in the sonar cone (or multiple cones for multiple frequencies and/or even somewhat flattened cones in some cases). You may already have a tilt/heel measuring app, but iNstall's is nicely dampened and especially calibrated to help you determine which tilted element transducer to install at a specific hull location. And if you're catching on that iNstall is especially focused on transducers, you won't be surprised that the wholesale marine electronics distributor, Gemeco, in South Carolina is a subsidiary of Airmar Technology in New Hampshire. But since Airmar manufactures at least some of the transducers offered by or for every marine electronics brand (I think), the app's depth of information in this area is substantial. You can search for wiring diagrams by name and plug image and then tap to download the PDF if your iThing is online. You can also search for appropriate mix and match transducers (PDF poster here) by plug type, legacy electronics definitely included, or search the whole Airmar transducer catalog by several criteria faster than you can on the company's own website. The iNstall applets get more arcane with details of testing thermistors and the reference tables a tech uses with an EDI transducer tester. These serve mainly to remind me how complex even one corner of the marine electronics installer world can get. And also to remind me of the several installers who've recently told me that they feel like they're caught between a rock and a hard place, or more specifically between big manufacturers who want to sell through every channel possible and customers who always want more for less. Now, imagine an iNstall app that also dealt with the subtleties of marine antennas, ethernet cabling, boat cams, etc., etc. Respect thy installer! The good news is that Gemeco is looking for ideas about more useful applets to add to iNstall, and they distribute many more products than Airmar's. In fact, their thick catalog offers more lines of NMEA 2000 sensors and sub systems than I've ever seen in one place, along with a lot of other goodies that are often hard to source or even know about. And the catalog is all online for your perusal. Consumers cannot buy directly from Gemeco, but they're happy to direct you to a dealer/installer who can. I was reminded of that -- and frankly of the app, which debuted in September -- when the Gemeco phone number showed up on an Actisense advert here this week. If you do download iNstall, please tell us what you like and what you think should be added. Posted by Ben on January 23, 2014 7:25 AM Don Don Harben 1.416.648.7058 Cell Text Msg Life CC 29-1 www.ncyc.ca North Channel Yacht Club Objective in Lifenot to arrive at death's door softly and gracefully, in a well preserved bodybut to splash in broadside, totally used and spent, screaming, Wow. What a sail! ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I never want to reef with the wind coming in over the stern... The conditions I described below were such we did not want to turn into the wind for any reason. The seas were averaging 24' and the big ones were in the 40' range with breaking tops. (Not unusual in June/July south of the Oregon/Calif border, north of San Francisco. This area is often called the Squash Zone owing to the Northwesterly winds being squashed between inshore and offshore high pressure cells.) This is the same area that more than a few new cruisers, often an older couple, are airlifted off a perfectly good boat because they have become exhausted and can no longer safely sail their boat. The first time (1977) I experienced the Squash Zone was aboard a CC 39 with the typical mainsail plastic slugs in a track. That mainsail would not reef downwind at any time. We spent a very exciting night over powered, unwilling to head back upwind to reef. IIRC that sail was tough to reef upwind, especially when wet. Sometimes it would take two crew to pull the sail down. One of the things to watch closely when reefing downwind with full battens is how they are located in relationship to the spreaders. In boisterous conditions with the wind aft the sail and battens will be pressed against the spreaders and rigging. On Calypso we will sheet in a little to pull the battens off the spreaders. Sheeting in does load the sail up a little but the Harken Batt cars have so little friction that the extra load does not create the need for more down force. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 4:06 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I never want to reef with the wind coming in over the stern...In fact I think that would be a very hard way to do it -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Martin DeYoung Sent: February 6, 2014 7:58 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to ... I have seldom ever wanted to reef with the wind aft ... On a delivery of a 56' modern fast cruiser (carbon mast/boom etc.) from Seattle to San Francisco we had 20 hours of fast downwind sailing with winds in the 35 to 45 range with seas to match. All four aboard were experience racers and offshore sailors (the owner had seen 250K offshore miles). There was heated competition for high speed of the day while avoiding making a pile of carbon splinters. (I had held one day's speed record at 24 knots on an extended surf in the middle of a 45 knot gust.) The sail plan for those conditions was 1 or 2 reefs and a poled out #3, sometimes partially rolled up. IIRC the boat had an Antal system on the mast with full battens. We were able to add or shake reefs downwind at will to keep the boat moving fast but within the abilities of boat and crew to handle the conditions. With larger, powerful sail plans the lower friction mainsail luff systems (Calypso has the Harken Batt cars) I consider the ability to quickly reduce sail area upwind or down is a safety and seamanship issue. I am able to singlehandedly put the first reef in Calypso's mainsail in less than 3 minutes under most conditions. I did heave to reef once while sailing singlehanded in what started as a nice 20 TWS that quickly became 30 with gusts to 35. I rolled up some of the #3, tacked without releasing the sheet. Once the boat settle in a little I was able to put in the reef (all lines at the mast) with significantly less motion on deck. I do recall thinking to myself that setting out on Calypso, singlehanded in these conditions could be my last mistake and have been more conservative since. It was not the actual sailing, it was the ability to recover from a mistake or equipment failure so close to land that was a concern. Martin Calypso 1971 CC 43 Seattle ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
The 24 was pretty easy to heave to, nice big rudder meant I could heave to in 15+ true with the 115% genoa still up. Nice way to settle things down to catch a breath, sort out some boat issue or put a reef in when single handed. The 27 MkII on the other hand is a bit of a swine to get to heave to nicely, in anything more than about 8kts true I have to pull the genoa in to about 80% or less or it just overpowers the little rudder and I find myself with the wind coming over the rear quarter, heeling about 20degrees, not ideal. Unless I'm doing something wrong of course. At 40, the redhead would be fine, aside from any objections from the wife of course. Cheers, Paul Orange Crush, 27MkII, Sidney, BC. Ex. Tangerine, 24 On 14-02-06 04:11 PM, Patrick H. Wesley wrote: I consider that knowing how to heave-to is one of the most important things I have learned especially when single-handing in a boat that does not have a reliable Otto. Tack without moving the jib over, then rudder/tiller hard over towards the boom and secured, then balance the two sails to reduce the speed as much as possible. In some conditions I have still been covering ground so you need to have plenty of sea-room. I've used this manoeuvre for many of the things that others have mentioned, but have to say that at 74 I think the red-head window is closing fast.. Patrick Wesley, The Boat, 24, Sidney BC On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has dog bones for both the 1^st and 2^nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *dwight *Sent:* Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit...drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet...it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna *From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *Stevan Plavsa *Sent:* February 6, 2014 9:17 AM *To:* w...@wbryant.com mailto:w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com mailto:w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com mailto:CnC-List@cnc-list.com -- Patrick H. Wesley 4068 Licorice Lane, Victoria BC Canada V8X 0A2 1 250 370 0547; mobile 1 250 380 8959 hickl...@telus.net mailto:hickl...@telus.net ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Are the dog bones referred to metal loops connected by a strap that are threaded through a cringle on the luff of the main? I have not heard that term used before. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has “dog bones” for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don’t you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don’t and I do it alone from the cockpit…drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet…it’s a little noisy with sail flap but isn’t it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Yes, which attach to the horns at the gooseneck. Dogs, geese and cattle apparently. John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 9:01 PM, Charles Nelson cenel...@aol.com wrote: Are the dog bones referred to metal loops connected by a strap that are threaded through a cringle on the luff of the main? I have not heard that term used before. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has “dog bones” for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don’t you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don’t and I do it alone from the cockpit…drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet…it’s a little noisy with sail flap but isn’t it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Selling WINDSONG
Jim, that's a great looking boat; did you change out the windows to opening ports yourself? Richard 1985 37 CB Richard N. Bush Law Offices 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9 Louisville, Kentucky 40220 502-584-7255 -Original Message- From: Jim R. jrma...@netscape.net To: cnc-list cnc-list@cnc-list.com Sent: Thu, Feb 6, 2014 9:41 pm Subject: Stus-List Selling WINDSONG I've decided to sell my 1982 CC 34 w/centerboard. She is in good shape and sits on the Pagan River in Virginia. If you would like to take a quick look follow this link http://webpages.charter.net/jrmath1/ I'm selling her myself and offering on the list first. Regards, Jim ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Rick: If you're talking about the reef clew being secured to the boom before running through the cringle then absolutely agree. If you're suggesting that tying the foot of the sail to the boom every couple of feet with little pieces of line will somehow enhance sail shape, well... if you say so. It's just a loose footed sail. Use the usual techniques to flatten. Don't measure wind in true. 18-20 true going downwind probably won't require a reef (or a flat sail). It's all about apparent. Link to nice piece on various reefing configurations http://offshore-sailor.com/seamanship-and-boat-handling/5-reefing-systems.html Best John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 9:34 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: John; On my 38, the distance from the tack cringle to the outhaul cringle of the first reef is about 11 ½ feet. My first reef is somewhere between 4 and 5 feet above the loose foot of the sail, and amounts to just under 25% of the area of the main. So there is a lot of canvas that can belly out in the wind and add to the draft of the sail. If its blowing hard enough for me to reef the main – say something around 18-20 knots true – I want to get the sail as flat as possible. So I’ve never considered the reef lines tied around the boom to be a cosmetic thing. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Pretty much the same setup on Paws. The only difference is we run the tack line (Cunningham) from the mast base up through the cringle and then back to the mast base where it is tied off. Eliminates the figure eight knot but does create a chafe point. Never thought of eight knot - interesting idea. Will try it. We also removed the bones as they do get in the way. Does it tend to pull the sail to one side? John Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:25 PM, dwight dwight...@gmail.com wrote: Rick My sail has dog bones too…I run a high Cunningham, I put a figure 8 stooper knot in the line and run it up through a padeye on the port side of the mast below and forward of the boom, then up through the first reef cringle (dog bones still installed) and down to and through another padeye similarly installed on the starboard side of the mast to a block at the base of the mast to turning blocks on deck and then to a Lemar clutch on the coach house that I can tension from the cockpit with or without winch assistance, depends if I need the winch to get proper tension..I have not set up the second reef…If I needed that much main reef I would get rid of the main altogether and go headsail alone. I removed the hooks at the gooseneck, because I do not need them with this setup and the did get in the way sometimes. The outhaul for the first reef is fasten starboard side of boom and aft of first cringle when reefed, from there up through cringle and down to turning block on port side of boom and from there inside boom to gooseneck and down to turning block at base of mast, aft through deck organizer to similar Lewmar clutch on coach house which I can tension with the same winch. Both lines are led aft on starboard side of deck and my main halyard is on that side too, so all 3 needed control lines are on starboard side coach house and can be with the same winch, one after the other. I have a backup winch that I can use if the primary breaks. I have 4 winches on the coach house, 2 on each side. Maybe hard to visualize and I don’t really have a good photo, but believe me this setup works like a charm for the first reef. I have autopilot but if I reef going to weather I have found that the boat will hold the course on her own while I reef…if she didn’t I would engage the autopilot. Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: February 6, 2014 8:02 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has “dog bones” for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don’t you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don’t and I do it alone from the cockpit…drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet…it’s a little noisy with sail flap but isn’t it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
Ok. You hadn't mentioned the outhaul in earlier posts (including an discussion some time ago about reefing from the cockpit vs. going to the cabin top), so I wondered what you did about the reef outhaul. Your setup sounds pretty conventional. On both my boats, the reef lines for the leach (I have both 1st and 2nd rigged on both boats) go to a winch mounted on the STBD side of the boom about 18 aft of the gooseneck. I actually prefer reefing from the cabin top - guess it's just what I'm used to. In Pamlico Sound and the Neuse, it can get pretty bouncy when the wind kicks up because the water is relatively shallow. Thin 4 foot waves spaced 12 feet apart. Two or three times a year I end up motor sailing with the main double reefed; it puts a bit of heel on the boat and the wind pressure makes the ride smoother. I make it a practice of tying reef lines around the boom to control the foot of the reefed main. Otherwise the draft of the sail becomes excessive. Rick Brass Imzadi -1976 CC 38 mk1 la Belle Aurore -1975 CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Rick My sail has dog bones too.I run a high Cunningham, I put a figure 8 stooper knot in the line and run it up through a padeye on the port side of the mast below and forward of the boom, then up through the first reef cringle (dog bones still installed) and down to and through another padeye similarly installed on the starboard side of the mast to a block at the base of the mast to turning blocks on deck and then to a Lemar clutch on the coach house that I can tension from the cockpit with or without winch assistance, depends if I need the winch to get proper tension..I have not set up the second reef.If I needed that much main reef I would get rid of the main altogether and go headsail alone. I removed the hooks at the gooseneck, because I do not need them with this setup and the did get in the way sometimes. The outhaul for the first reef is fasten starboard side of boom and aft of first cringle when reefed, from there up through cringle and down to turning block on port side of boom and from there inside boom to gooseneck and down to turning block at base of mast, aft through deck organizer to similar Lewmar clutch on coach house which I can tension with the same winch. Both lines are led aft on starboard side of deck and my main halyard is on that side too, so all 3 needed control lines are on starboard side coach house and can be with the same winch, one after the other. I have a backup winch that I can use if the primary breaks. I have 4 winches on the coach house, 2 on each side. Maybe hard to visualize and I don't really have a good photo, but believe me this setup works like a charm for the first reef. I have autopilot but if I reef going to weather I have found that the boat will hold the course on her own while I reef.if she didn't I would engage the autopilot. Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: February 6, 2014 8:02 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has dog bones for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit.drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet.it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
John; On my 38, the distance from the tack cringle to the outhaul cringle of the first reef is about 11 ½ feet. My first reef is somewhere between 4 and 5 feet above the loose foot of the sail, and amounts to just under 25% of the area of the main. So there is a lot of canvas that can belly out in the wind and add to the draft of the sail. If its blowing hard enough for me to reef the main – say something around 18-20 knots true – I want to get the sail as flat as possible. So I’ve never considered the reef lines tied around the boom to be a cosmetic thing. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Stus-List Reeflines make it look pretty
Reeflines are a clever sail-makers trick. You'll want those - it's traditional right? If you tie them around the boom, you are sure to rip them out of the sail and split your main! Buy another main, and ask for a loose footed main. if you have to tie them, only loosely tie them around the sail - NOT THE BOOM! Sorry, my sailmaker friends my not like this post, but they know me. . . 2 cents, Lee John; On my 38, the distance from the tack cringle to the outhaul cringle of the first reef is about 11 12 feet. My first reef is somewhere between 4 and 5 feet above the loose foot of the sail, and amounts to just under 25% of the area of the main. So there is a lot of canvas that can belly out in the wind and add to the draft of the sail. If its blowing hard enough for me to reef the main - say something around 18-20 knots true - I want to get the sail as flat as possible. So I've never considered the reef lines tied around the boom to be a cosmetic thing. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Reeflines make it look pretty
Difficult to do if you don't have a loose foot main of course. I never used the first set of nettles, with the second reef in though, way too much spare sail flapping around so the nettles were tied around the boom. You just have to remember to untie before shaking the reef out, not that difficult really. Cheers, Paul On 14-02-06 09:17 PM, sam.c.sal...@gmail.com wrote: All sailmakers know that reefing nettles (reef lines) are tied around the sails, not the boom. Most sailors, with any sort of experience, should know that too. sam :-) Original Message From: Lee Youngblood Sent: Thursday, February 6, 2014 10:08 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Reply To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Reeflines make it look pretty Reeflines are a clever sail-makers trick. You'll want those - it's traditional right? If you tie them around the boom, you are sure to rip them out of the sail and split your main! Buy another main, and ask for a loose footed main. if you have to tie them, only loosely tie them around the sail - NOT THE BOOM! Sorry, my sailmaker friends my not like this post, but they know me. . . 2 cents, Lee John; On my 38, the distance from the tack cringle to the outhaul cringle of the first reef is about 11 1Ž2 feet. My first reef is somewhere between 4 and 5 feet above the loose foot of the sail, and amounts to just under 25% of the area of the main. So there is a lot of canvas that can belly out in the wind and add to the draft of the sail. If its blowing hard enough for me to reef the main - say something around 18-20 knots true - I want to get the sail as flat as possible. So I've never considered the reef lines tied around the boom to be a cosmetic thing. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
What I refer to is a woven strap through the cringle with a ss ring attached on each side so it can't be removed without cutting the strap _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Charles Nelson Sent: February 6, 2014 10:01 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Cc: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Are the dog bones referred to metal loops connected by a strap that are threaded through a cringle on the luff of the main? I have not heard that term used before. Charlie Nelson Water Phantom 36 XL/kcb Sent from my iPad On Feb 6, 2014, at 7:01 PM, Rick Brass rickbr...@earthlink.net wrote: Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has dog bones for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit.drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet.it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Stevan Plavsa Sent: February 6, 2014 9:17 AM To: w...@wbryant.com; cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Don't you guys heave to when you need to reef the main? Steve Suhana, CC 32 Toronto On Thu, Feb 6, 2014 at 4:57 AM, Wally Bryant w...@wbryant.com wrote: I'm on the wrong boat. Jim Watts wrote: No, you just need somebody to make French Toast. Gale? What gale? http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pPOL8C4FPdc ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to
I am a fan of conventional for some things.tying reef lines through the reef points is not these easiest thing to do when the weather is rough.on Alianna I would have to get up on the deck to do it.If I reef before leaving the mooring and I expect to use the reef all day, then I might do it _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: February 6, 2014 10:23 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Ok. You hadn't mentioned the outhaul in earlier posts (including an discussion some time ago about reefing from the cockpit vs. going to the cabin top), so I wondered what you did about the reef outhaul. Your setup sounds pretty conventional. On both my boats, the reef lines for the leach (I have both 1st and 2nd rigged on both boats) go to a winch mounted on the STBD side of the boom about 18 aft of the gooseneck. I actually prefer reefing from the cabin top - guess it's just what I'm used to. In Pamlico Sound and the Neuse, it can get pretty bouncy when the wind kicks up because the water is relatively shallow. Thin 4 foot waves spaced 12 feet apart. Two or three times a year I end up motor sailing with the main double reefed; it puts a bit of heel on the boat and the wind pressure makes the ride smoother. I make it a practice of tying reef lines around the boom to control the foot of the reefed main. Otherwise the draft of the sail becomes excessive. Rick Brass Imzadi -1976 CC 38 mk1 la Belle Aurore -1975 CC 25 mk1 Washington, NC From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:25 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Rick My sail has dog bones too.I run a high Cunningham, I put a figure 8 stooper knot in the line and run it up through a padeye on the port side of the mast below and forward of the boom, then up through the first reef cringle (dog bones still installed) and down to and through another padeye similarly installed on the starboard side of the mast to a block at the base of the mast to turning blocks on deck and then to a Lemar clutch on the coach house that I can tension from the cockpit with or without winch assistance, depends if I need the winch to get proper tension..I have not set up the second reef.If I needed that much main reef I would get rid of the main altogether and go headsail alone. I removed the hooks at the gooseneck, because I do not need them with this setup and the did get in the way sometimes. The outhaul for the first reef is fasten starboard side of boom and aft of first cringle when reefed, from there up through cringle and down to turning block on port side of boom and from there inside boom to gooseneck and down to turning block at base of mast, aft through deck organizer to similar Lewmar clutch on coach house which I can tension with the same winch. Both lines are led aft on starboard side of deck and my main halyard is on that side too, so all 3 needed control lines are on starboard side coach house and can be with the same winch, one after the other. I have a backup winch that I can use if the primary breaks. I have 4 winches on the coach house, 2 on each side. Maybe hard to visualize and I don't really have a good photo, but believe me this setup works like a charm for the first reef. I have autopilot but if I reef going to weather I have found that the boat will hold the course on her own while I reef.if she didn't I would engage the autopilot. Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rick Brass Sent: February 6, 2014 8:02 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to Dwight; I get that you use a reef tack cringle like a Cunningham to tension the luff of the sail. My main has dog bones for both the 1st and 2nd reef that go over reef hooks on the gooseneck. What do you do about the outhaul for the reef cringle on the leach of the sail? And don't you need to put reef lines through cringles in the sail and tied around the boom to gather up and control the foot of the sail? Seems the sail would be pretty baggy with the foot loose to billow out, when the point in reefing is to keep the sail tight and flat. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of dwight Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 8:28 AM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to I don't and I do it alone from the cockpit.drop the main off with the main sheet, let it flog, lower the halyard to predetermined spot, tension the high Cunningham on the mast to get the new tack in place, tension the main halyard, tension the main sheet.it's a little noisy with sail flap but isn't it always that way when you need to reef the main? Dwight CC 35 MKII, Alianna _ From: CnC-List
Re: Stus-List Reeflines make it look pretty
Agree with the Lee -Original Message- From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Lee Youngblood Sent: February 6, 2014 11:54 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Stus-List Reeflines make it look pretty Reeflines are a clever sail-makers trick. You'll want those - it's traditional right? If you tie them around the boom, you are sure to rip them out of the sail and split your main! Buy another main, and ask for a loose footed main. if you have to tie them, only loosely tie them around the sail - NOT THE BOOM! Sorry, my sailmaker friends my not like this post, but they know me. . . 2 cents, Lee John; On my 38, the distance from the tack cringle to the outhaul cringle of the first reef is about 11 1Ž2 feet. My first reef is somewhere between 4 and 5 feet above the loose foot of the sail, and amounts to just under 25% of the area of the main. So there is a lot of canvas that can belly out in the wind and add to the draft of the sail. If its blowing hard enough for me to reef the main - say something around 18-20 knots true - I want to get the sail as flat as possible. So I've never considered the reef lines tied around the boom to be a cosmetic thing. Rick Brass From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of j...@svpaws.net Sent: Thursday, February 06, 2014 7:20 PM To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com Subject: Re: Stus-List Re- heaving to reef lines tied around the boom I've never done that and consider it more a make it look pretty thing. You're only talking about a few feet of sail controlled by the original outhaul and the new outhaul at the reef point. It's pretty well sandwiched in there. Same for the second reef although that does get a bit sloppy. -- ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com ___ This List is provided by the CC Photo Album http://www.cncphotoalbum.com CnC-List@cnc-list.com
