Stus-List Re: new jib sheet
Consider one continuous line with and alpine butterfly and a soft shackle. I have a mast mounted whisker pole and a baby stay. The sail never gets stuck like it did with with bowlines. https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 26, 2024 11:05:33 Bob Mann via CnC-List : > I snapped a jib sheet on my 35 Saturday. Suggestions on type of line for > replacing? > > Bob Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Outhaul
I replaced mine with line as well but, beware. There are sheaves on the mast and boom that were designed for wire, or wire and rope, or rope alone. You would be well served to know which you have before changing. I bought all new sheaves from zephyrworks to properly accommodate my selection of line. That being said, the distance between the clew car and the boom end sheave doesn't leave much space to terminate your line. I have not been unsuccessful using an eye splice but it did fatten and stiffen that end of the line. A double overhand might be better. Amsteel also comes to mind since an eye splice wouldn't tend to stiffen the line as much. Of course with the strength of amsteel you could size the line down to account for the added fatness of the buried tail. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 22, 2024 21:59:14 Rob Hamlin via CnC-List : > Hi > Anyone replaced their outhaul? Boat is a C 37+, with rope to wire that > attaches to the main. > > Looking at the manual it’s says 3/8 30ft, but nothing about wire. > > Thanks > Rob > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Non Starting Universal / Westerbeke 5416
As I suspected. It does have a compression release or decompression lever(s). Make sure they are all to the outboard position (45°), not vertical. https://l-36.com/read_pdf.php?page=11=manuals11/200152_Rev1-M20-M30-5416-5421_Technical_Man=Universal_Diesel__5416_Technical_Manual Josh May 18, 2024 08:39:50 Dennis C. via CnC-List : > On page 25 here: > > https://www.westerbeke.com/parts%20manual/200140_m20_5416_parts_manual.pdf > > It shows an electric fuel pump. Part 21. Verify the existence/location of > this pump. Turn on the key, press the start button and see if you feel/hear > rapid clicking from the pump. If not, verify power to the pump. If you have > power and it doesn't click, replace the pump. > > With a little research, you can find a generic and much cheaper replacement. > Westerbeke will often relabel pumps made by Facit. > > Mine quit while motoring a couple years ago. When the electric fuel pump > quits, the engine quits. Luckily, I had a spare on board. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Fri, May 17, 2024 at 9:19 PM Todd Williams via CnC-List > wrote: >> Looking for some input on my non starting Universal / Westerbeke diesel 5416 >> on my 1980 C& C 34. It was running great at the end of last year but no go >> from the start this year. >> >> It turns over great but no sounds of combustion. Battery is brand new. Oil >> and transmission fluids are at proper levels and fresh. It sounds like the >> glow plugs are working because the blower changes pitch with the increased >> current draw. Fuel looks good, checked pickup for debris, changed fuel >> filter, bled lines. I did have some electrical work done at the wiring >> harness but I don’t think that would affect it. >> >> I am thinking either I need to look at the injectors and injector pump or I >> need to do a compression test. I’ve read about both in online forums but >> haven’t had the “opportunity” to dig this far into engine troubles. Any >> input from the group on other diagnostic tests or possible sources of the >> issue? Thanks in advance. >> >> TODD >> Indigo Out We Go >> 1980 C 34 >> Saco, ME >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu > > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Non Starting Universal / Westerbeke 5416
As I suspected. It does have a compression release or decompression lever(s). Make sure they are all to the outboard position (45°), not vertical. [cid:eu.faircode.email.13941] May 18, 2024 03:38:49 Josh Muckley via CnC-List : > I got "stuck rings" one year after I stored the boat in the water. The > theory being that when the engine stops the nature of the intake and exhaust > valves is to stop in a manner in which one or two of the cylinders have both > intake and exhaust not fully seated. As the boat rocks in the water the wet > muffler creates a water lock that pushes and pulls air through the engine via > the open intake and exhaust valves. Eventually enough humid air condenses > and collects on the cylinder walls and runs into the gap between the piston > and wall - thus the piston ring sees all the water collection. Enough time > and leak by and the second and third ring may see water too. More time > passes and the years of soot, carbon, motor oil, wear products, corrosion > products, and now water all mix to gum up the rings and stick them in their > current position. Well the first time you roll the engine in the spring the > piston rocks slightly as the angle of the connecting rod changes around the > crankshaft. This rocking motion jams the stuck rings in tight on one side > and then rocks to jam them in tight on the other side. The end result is > that the cylinder has low compression. Since all diesels require the heat of > compression to create the combustion, the diesel doesn't run. > > With glow plugs checking the compression is as easy as changing spark plugs. > > At first I was getting a very poor running engine and tons of blow by. > Eventually the engine died and could not be restarted. The solution was to > every day drip about 15ml of penetrating oil into each cylinder and roll the > engine. Roll it by hand and the oil doesn't get shot all over the place. > Roll it with the starter and the oil might make it to nooks and crannies > better. > > Compression for a diesel should be upwards of 400 psi. Two of my cylinders > were at 145-ish and the third was at 350. Once I was done and got the engine > running all the cylinders were 450+. > > So... > - I'm not sure if the universals have decompression levers but if it does, > double check they are not set to decompress. > > - Check that fuel is making it to the injectors by bleeding each injector > fitting while someone cranks the engine. Cone wrench is advised. > > - Check for intake suction by covering the intake air snout on the air > cleaner. > > - As others have said, check all the glow plugs are heating the cylinders. I > think it is the universals that have the old trailer harnesses, these are > notorious for losing connection and should be replaced with a terminal board. > In addition to the terminal board the glow plugs pull too much current for > the push button in the cockpit and a solenoid should be added so that the > current it carried there instead. With the terminal board and solenoid > you'll get hotter and more consistent glow on your plugs. Of course a > resistance check of the plug will verify functionality. Remember to > disconnect the plug terminal first. > > - Once those options are exhausted there is little left than to do a > compression check > > > All the best, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Yanmar 3HM35F > Solomons, MD > > > May 17, 2024 22:19:32 Todd Williams via CnC-List : > >> Looking for some input on my non starting Universal / Westerbeke diesel 5416 >> on my 1980 C& C 34. It was running great at the end of last year but no go >> from the start this year. >> >> It turns over great but no sounds of combustion. Battery is brand new. Oil >> and transmission fluids are at proper levels and fresh. It sounds like the >> glow plugs are working because the blower changes pitch with the increased >> current draw. Fuel looks good, checked pickup for debris, changed fuel >> filter, bled lines. I did have some electrical work done at the wiring >> harness but I don’t think that would affect it. >> >> I am thinking either I need to look at the injectors and injector pump or I >> need to do a compression test. I’ve read about both in online forums but >> haven’t had the “opportunity” to dig this far into engine troubles. Any >> input from the group on other diagnostic tests or possible sources of the >> issue? Thanks in advance. >> >> TODD >> Indigo Out We Go >> 1980 C 34 >> Saco, ME Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Non Starting Universal / Westerbeke 5416
I got "stuck rings" one year after I stored the boat in the water. The theory being that when the engine stops the nature of the intake and exhaust valves is to stop in a manner in which one or two of the cylinders have both intake and exhaust not fully seated. As the boat rocks in the water the wet muffler creates a water lock that pushes and pulls air through the engine via the open intake and exhaust valves. Eventually enough humid air condenses and collects on the cylinder walls and runs into the gap between the piston and wall - thus the piston ring sees all the water collection. Enough time and leak by and the second and third ring may see water too. More time passes and the years of soot, carbon, motor oil, wear products, corrosion products, and now water all mix to gum up the rings and stick them in their current position. Well the first time you roll the engine in the spring the piston rocks slightly as the angle of the connecting rod changes around the crankshaft. This rocking motion jams the stuck rings in tight on one side and then rocks to jam them in tight on the other side. The end result is that the cylinder has low compression. Since all diesels require the heat of compression to create the combustion, the diesel doesn't run. With glow plugs checking the compression is as easy as changing spark plugs. At first I was getting a very poor running engine and tons of blow by. Eventually the engine died and could not be restarted. The solution was to every day drip about 15ml of penetrating oil into each cylinder and roll the engine. Roll it by hand and the oil doesn't get shot all over the place. Roll it with the starter and the oil might make it to nooks and crannies better. Compression for a diesel should be upwards of 400 psi. Two of my cylinders were at 145-ish and the third was at 350. Once I was done and got the engine running all the cylinders were 450+. So... - I'm not sure if the universals have decompression levers but if it does, double check they are not set to decompress. - Check that fuel is making it to the injectors by bleeding each injector fitting while someone cranks the engine. Cone wrench is advised. - Check for intake suction by covering the intake air snout on the air cleaner. - As others have said, check all the glow plugs are heating the cylinders. I think it is the universals that have the old trailer harnesses, these are notorious for losing connection and should be replaced with a terminal board. In addition to the terminal board the glow plugs pull too much current for the push button in the cockpit and a solenoid should be added so that the current it carried there instead. With the terminal board and solenoid you'll get hotter and more consistent glow on your plugs. Of course a resistance check of the plug will verify functionality. Remember to disconnect the plug terminal first. - Once those options are exhausted there is little left than to do a compression check All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Yanmar 3HM35F Solomons, MD May 17, 2024 22:19:32 Todd Williams via CnC-List : > Looking for some input on my non starting Universal / Westerbeke diesel 5416 > on my 1980 C& C 34. It was running great at the end of last year but no go > from the start this year. > > It turns over great but no sounds of combustion. Battery is brand new. Oil > and transmission fluids are at proper levels and fresh. It sounds like the > glow plugs are working because the blower changes pitch with the increased > current draw. Fuel looks good, checked pickup for debris, changed fuel > filter, bled lines. I did have some electrical work done at the wiring > harness but I don’t think that would affect it. > > I am thinking either I need to look at the injectors and injector pump or I > need to do a compression test. I’ve read about both in online forums but > haven’t had the “opportunity” to dig this far into engine troubles. Any input > from the group on other diagnostic tests or possible sources of the issue? > Thanks in advance. > > TODD > Indigo Out We Go > 1980 C 34 > Saco, ME Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Traveler sheet suggestions
The stretch in the line on the traveler is of less significance than that of the halyards. With an easily adjustable main sheet you can fine tune against stretch in the traveler. For a stretch irrelevant application like the traveler, sta-set is a widely available and cost effective product. The only reason I would deviate is for color coding. I keep all my mainsail lines green. Halyards are solid and low stretch. Sheets are white with green fleck. Everything else is a variation of green. Any line can be quickly identified as being for the main, head,or spin. In short sta-set is a fine choice. All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD May 16, 2024 20:46:49 Dennis C. via CnC-List : > Curious what folks are using for traveler sheets. I am currently using 8mm > (5/16) Sta-Set but it's gotten stiff with age. I will soak it in fabric > softener and wash it but wouldn't mind replacing it with something softer and > more flexible. > > Touche's traveler system is 4:1 so load is not excessive. It's rigged as a > continuous sheet. The turning blocks aren't large so flexibility is fairly > important. Here's a pic: > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsX0dGcEV2Mm1QNUE/view?usp=sharing=0-VoBpjBoTer6Q7B78Lk4ADQ > > Probably looking at some kind of double braid line. Don't need or want > anything super high tech or expensive although with only 31 feet needed this > won't break the bank. > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Racor 500MA question
I thought the metal shield was for gas vs diesel? Mine has been through 3 surveys during my ownership. No comments. I'll ask the last surveyor. I'll let you know what he says. All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Apr 26, 2024 17:48:08 ed vanderkruk via CnC-List : > Agree that the benefit of the shield seems a bit exaggerated but the > timeframe it tries to hit is only 2 1/2 minutes of survival. > > ABYC actually prefers an all metal filter / filter bowl - the 500MA comes > with that as an option at purchase. Typically the 500MA is available, > currently, and I assume purchased, with the plastic bowl. > > As suggested best to show it in place at survey time. > > > Ed > > On Fri, Apr 26, 2024, 5:30 p.m. Andrew Burton via CnC-List > wrote: >> Ed, I can’t imagine a situation on a small boat where that metal bowl would >> do a bit of could. And it does make the filter harder to use. I would keep >> it and reinstall it before a survey. >> Andy >> >> Andrew Burton >> 26 Beacon Hill >> Newport, RI >> USA 02840 >> >> http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ >> +401 965-5260 >> >>> On Apr 26, 2024, at 16:40, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>> >>> >>> Ed, >>> My understanding on the metal bowl is, that it is only required if the >>> clear filter bowl is plastic. Glass ones the bowl isn't required. The >>> reason being, the glass bowl doesn't melt as fast in a fire. >>> I may be be wrong, but if memory serves me right. >>> >>> Douglas Mountjoy >>> 1988 C LF 39 >>> Mexico at large >>> 1984 Sabre 34 >>> Port Orchard, WA >>> >>> >>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2024, 12:10 ed vanderkruk via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>>> Removing the metal heat shield makes it non-compliant under ABYC for use >>>> inside an engine compartment. >>>> >>>> Ed >>>> >>>> LF 38 >>>> Toronto, Canada >>>> >>>> On Fri, Apr 26, 2024, 1:45 p.m. Andrew Burton via CnC-List >>>> wrote: >>>>> They do get mucked up. Rarely. But I have had to take the filter apart. >>>>> More fun at the dock than offshore. Parker sells rebuild kits that I used >>>>> once. By the way, I always leave the metal shield off to make it easier >>>>> to inspect the bowl. >>>>> Andy >>>>> >>>>> Andrew Burton >>>>> 26 Beacon Hill >>>>> Newport, RI >>>>> USA 02840 >>>>> >>>>> +401 965 5260 >>>>> https://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/ >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>>> … >>>>>> … >>>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >>>>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >>>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>>> Thanks for your help. >>>>> Stu >>>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >>>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >>>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>> Thanks for your help. >>>> Stu >>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks for your help. >>> Stu >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: 36-1 Repower or 3HM35 heat exchanger?
Keep and eye on ebay. You can find lots of used parts for the 3HM. A machinist will probably have ideas about how to get yours to seal. After exhausting professional options, I'd try employing JB Weld epoxy putty. You could manufacturer a flat plate to bolt or press in place of the end bell. Use mold release so the plate isn't permanent. By using the plate, you create a flat face against which the JB Weld will form. Use a dremel to clean up the details once it is cured. Repeat for the end bell. Now with 2 flat surfaces you shouldn't have trouble getting a seal. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Yanmar 3HM35F Solomons, MD Apr 10, 2024 08:36:04 jacob fuerst via CnC-List : > Good day, > > In the process of doing some much needed engine upkeep on a 3HM35 and I found > the heat exchanger case has some corrosion around the front seal and may not > reseal or at least not for very long. There is quite a bit of additional > corrosion around the front of the same case. The local yanmar shop said they > looked for a replacement to no avail. Perhaps someone here knows of a lead? > > That said I’m not entirely opposed to dropping a new engine in because the > heat exchanger isn’t the only issue and I don’t even know the serial number > because the ID plate fell off before I became the owner and who knows the > total hours. > > My understanding is these boats were originally fitted with the 3QM30 but at > some point a 3HM35 with 2 bladed folding prop was installed in mine. My > question is if a 3YM30AE would be a sufficient replacement. The local shop > points out the higher rpm of the 3YM and believes it would be underpowered > compared to the current 3HM and is suggesting a 3JH40. > > I’m interested to hear any thoughts or experiences you might have. Thanks in > advance! > > Jacob Fuerst > 303-520-4669 > 1978 C 36 > Ventura, CA Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Understanding Polars
Dennis said exactly what I was thinking. I can't think of any time when VMG shouldn't be the metric. Most boats have polars that are flat or concave between 170 and 190. As I understand it this is likely because the boat has more wetted surface area when it is flat in the water. Regardless of spin or wing you should get crew weight to the leward side and cheat to the wind as much as the boat will allow to maximize VMG. A preventer helps for safety and a whisker pole helps keep the headsail open. With both you can probably come up as much as 10 or even 20 degrees - again, as needed to maximize VMG. All things being equal, jibe when your angle to the mark is slightly more than double the amount which you're off 180°. This will also be about the same time that your VMG as a percentage of wind speed will start to drop. My apparent wind meter has demarcations between 160 and 200. I try to stay out of that region...it sucks. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Apr 5, 2024 17:31:27 Dennis C. via CnC-List : > Personally, I think sailing to polars can be challenging. I prefer to use > VMG. VMG rules for windward/leeward race courses! Bear with me on this. > > First, a couple of definitions used by Touche's Nexus instrument system. > > Velocity - speed and course > VMG - velocity made good wind based. The velocity directly upwind or > downwind. > WCV - waypoint closure velocity. The velocity made closing on the set > waypoint > > Okay, if your instrument calculates VMG (wind based), simply steer the boat > to maximize VMG. Done! > > If your instruments do not calculate VMG (wind based), here's how to get your > GPS to closely approximate it. First, many GPS systems show VMG which is > actually WCV when a waypoint is set. If you set the upwind (or downwind) > mark as the waypoint, WCV will incur more error as you approach the layline. > Visualize it. As you approach the layline, your WCV will decrease to zero as > you near 90 degrees to your course to the mark. (If you overstand, WCV will > turn negative as you've sailed past your mark.) > > So, set a waypoint 10 miles directly upwind or downwind of the race mark. > Now your GPS WCV will closely approximate VMG (wind based). Steer to > maximize WCV and your course(s) to the mark will be optimized. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: C 37 Rudder post assembly
I'm afraid you're gonna have to go digging around inside but I agree that it sounds like the quadrant (or hydraulic drive arm if equipped) is what stopped the rudder from dropping further. I'm not familiar with the 37 but on the 37+ the rudder is held up by a stainless bolt with bronze rollers on either side and a nylock holding the whole works together. If the bolt breaks or the nylock comes off and the bolt works its way out, then the rudder would fall. All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Dec 7, 2023 15:15:10 Richard Bush via CnC-List : > > Hi all; I am in need the collective wisdom of the group for a rudder issue; > my boat (1985 C 37 CB) has been sitting on a trailer since early September > for repairs to the hull, not rudder related; sometime in the past week the > rudder has dropped a full two plus inches and no one knows how this happened; > the hull has been painted and the painters said they moved the rudder by > moving the steering wheel and had no issues; does anyone have any ideas or > suggests about what could have occurred? and more importantly, what needs to > be done to make the rudder usable? > > > We were hoping to relaunch in the next week or so...I'll be happy to provide > more information if anyone has questions...Thanks! > > Richard > 1985 C 37 CB; Ohio River... > > > Richard N. Bush Law Offices > 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine > Louisville, Kentucky 40220 > (502) 584-7255 Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Water in the oil
Doug, What you hear is most likely a vacuum break. Yes, it is supposed to stop water from syphoning into the engine. However, another way for water to naturally flood in after shutdown is by having the stern wave catch up to the transom and rush into the exhaust hose. The vacuum break doesn't prevent that. You could buy or borrow a coolant system pressure checker. They attach in place of the radiator cap and you pump it up by hand. Usually about 15 psi. You can observed how quickly the pressure bleeds off to help determined the location severity. Josh Oct 27, 2023 09:04:31 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List : > Thanks Josh, > This Yanmar 4jhe doesn't have a shutdown cable or decompress lever. It does > have a bleed for the exhaust on shutdown you can hear gurgling Ina cockpit > drain. This should prevent water backing up into the engine. > I'm now hoping that the saltwater won't severely damage the engine. > > Douglas Mountjoy > 1988 C LF 39 > Mexico at large > 1984 Sabre 34 > Port Orchard, WA > > > On Thu, Oct 26, 2023, 23:38 Josh Muckley via CnC-List > wrote: >> Water doesn't have to necessarily back up the exhaust from outside or from >> condensation. If, when you're laying the boat up, you don't have sufficient >> exhaust pressure to blow out the coolant, it only has to back up the elbow a >> short distance. The easiest way for this to happen is to use the decompress >> lever so as to prevent the engine from starting while running the starter to >> pump winterizing glycol through the engine. Don't do this. The problem is, >> without compression the coolant doesn't get blown out the exhaust. >> Similarly, pulling the engine stop to shutoff fuel does a similar job of not >> creating enough exhaust pressure (cause no combustion). Better than >> decompression but not good enough. If you're running wintering antifreeze >> through the engine, run the engine at a moderate throttle to suck the glycol >> quickly into the engine. When its gone, don't be too quick to stop the >> engine. Let it go long enough to blow the elbow dry, then shut off the >> engine. You can also have someone watching the exhaust to go dry. The >> whole thing is a bit precarious. Left hand on the elbow and right hand on >> the raw water pump cover to check for over heating is good practice if you >> have access. That leaves your right hand close to the fuel shutoff cable >> when it is time. >> >> Of course water in the cylinders (before it leaks through the rings to mix >> with the oil) would likely cause rust and stuck rings when you go to start >> it in the spring. So like the other listers have suggested, I'm leaning >> towards oil cooler leak too. See if you can pressure test it. >> >> >> Good luck, >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> Oct 26, 2023 20:14:17 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List : >> >>> Water from the exhaust seems unlikely at this point, it would have to flow >>> uphill quite a ways to get into the exhaust manifold. And plus this engine >>> is a diesel so no carburetor or anything like that. the only possible thing >>> I can think of is either a blown head gasket or the oil cooler. >>> >>> Douglas Mountjoy >>> 1988 LF 39 >>> Mexico at large >>> 1984 Sabre 34 >>> Port Orchard, WA >>> >>> >>> On Thu, Oct 26, 2023, 16:53 Rick Brass via CnC-List >>> wrote: >>>> I'm not sure that condensation would be a likely source for any >>>> significant amount of water to get into the engine oil. The only real >>>> point of entry would be some sort of reverse flow through the EGR valve, >>>> which doesn't seem like it would be likely to admit much water vapor - >>>> particularly in a semi-arid area. And any rainwater would need to get in >>>> through the carburetor and likely collect in the intake manifold and have >>>> little chance of leaking into the oil pan. >>>> >>>> >>>> The suggestion of a leak in the engine oil cooler seems a likely >>>> possibility, assuming you have one on that engine model. >>>> >>>> >>>> Another might be having water in the exhaust manifold when the engine was >>>> shut down that leaked back into the engine through partially opened >>>> exhaust valves. I lost an engine on my 38 that way: The PO had cut corners >>>> when the original A4 was replaced by the diesel, and when the boat heeled >>>> to
Stus-List Re: Water in the oil
Water doesn't have to necessarily back up the exhaust from outside or from condensation. If, when you're laying the boat up, you don't have sufficient exhaust pressure to blow out the coolant, it only has to back up the elbow a short distance. The easiest way for this to happen is to use the decompress lever so as to prevent the engine from starting while running the starter to pump winterizing glycol through the engine. Don't do this. The problem is, without compression the coolant doesn't get blown out the exhaust. Similarly, pulling the engine stop to shutoff fuel does a similar job of not creating enough exhaust pressure (cause no combustion). Better than decompression but not good enough. If you're running wintering antifreeze through the engine, run the engine at a moderate throttle to suck the glycol quickly into the engine. When its gone, don't be too quick to stop the engine. Let it go long enough to blow the elbow dry, then shut off the engine. You can also have someone watching the exhaust to go dry. The whole thing is a bit precarious. Left hand on the elbow and right hand on the raw water pump cover to check for over heating is good practice if you have access. That leaves your right hand close to the fuel shutoff cable when it is time. Of course water in the cylinders (before it leaks through the rings to mix with the oil) would likely cause rust and stuck rings when you go to start it in the spring. So like the other listers have suggested, I'm leaning towards oil cooler leak too. See if you can pressure test it. Good luck, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Oct 26, 2023 20:14:17 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List : > Water from the exhaust seems unlikely at this point, it would have to flow > uphill quite a ways to get into the exhaust manifold. And plus this engine is > a diesel so no carburetor or anything like that. the only possible thing I > can think of is either a blown head gasket or the oil cooler. > > Douglas Mountjoy > 1988 LF 39 > Mexico at large > 1984 Sabre 34 > Port Orchard, WA > > > On Thu, Oct 26, 2023, 16:53 Rick Brass via CnC-List > wrote: >> I'm not sure that condensation would be a likely source for any significant >> amount of water to get into the engine oil. The only real point of entry >> would be some sort of reverse flow through the EGR valve, which doesn't seem >> like it would be likely to admit much water vapor - particularly in a >> semi-arid area. And any rainwater would need to get in through the >> carburetor and likely collect in the intake manifold and have little chance >> of leaking into the oil pan. >> >> >> The suggestion of a leak in the engine oil cooler seems a likely >> possibility, assuming you have one on that engine model. >> >> >> Another might be having water in the exhaust manifold when the engine was >> shut down that leaked back into the engine through partially opened exhaust >> valves. I lost an engine on my 38 that way: The PO had cut corners when the >> original A4 was replaced by the diesel, and when the boat heeled to port >> while sailing water in the lines and muffler could get back into the exhaust >> manifold. Was OK for a long time because starting the engine blew the water >> out. But I lost a rudder, had to be towed in, and during the months that the >> boat was on the hard during the replacement the water leaked into the engine >> and corroded piston rings to the cylinder wall so the engine would not start >> - which required a rebuild or a new bobtail engine (which turned out to be >> less costly). Never looked at the oil pan on the old engine, but seems >> pretty likely there was water in there. >> >> >> Of course, YMMV. Good luck with the engine. >> >> >> Rick Brass >> Washington, NC >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Stus-List >> Sent: Oct 26, 2023 7:06 PM >> To: Stus-List >> Cc: Korbey Hunt >> Subject: Stus-List Re: Water in the oil >> >> >> >> Yes. Good possibility, my boat is in Loreto/ Puerto Escondido. I was in >> San Carlos a few years ago. Fun town. >> >> Get Outlook for Android[https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg] >> >> *From:* Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Thursday, October 26, 2023 12:27:55 PM >> *To:* Stus-List >> *Cc:* Doug Mountjoy >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Water in the oil >> >> There was enough water to turn the oil to chocolate milk. Could be >> condensation, there was a couple of nasty storms that came through here this >> summer. I'm in San Carlos MX. in the desert. Didn't
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter
I was estimating 3000A-hr too. That's 30 group 27 batteries! Not sure you want to do that. Most people opt for generators to power the air conditioning overnight. You only need a small 2kw unit. The little red Hondas are popular for this purpose. You can set them on the foredeck and run a shore power cord aft to your normal shore power plug. Not sure how long they are rated to run on one tank of gas. Of course this means keeping gasoline on board too. A little diesel genset is the best option if you can make room to mount it. Then it can be fuelled from the ship's tank. Oct 18, 2023 15:13:56 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List : > The simple math shows that if you need 12.5 A at 120 V, you will need 125 A > at 12 V. This is assuming 100% efficiency of the inverter. I bet that they > are around 80%, so add 20% to that number (1.2 x 125 A = 150 A). Run this for > 12 h and you will use 150 A x 12 h = 1800 Ah. In order to accomplish that, > you need a 3600 Ah battery bank (lead-acid), or around 2250 Ah if lithium. > > In short, you will need a small power station to power it (a 2000 W generator > will recharge that battery bank in more than 12 h). > > These calculations did not include the Paukert effect or potential issues > related to heat generated when discharging or charging the batteries. > > The only good news I could think of is that you won't need 12.5 A all the > time (a good chance is that after the initial run, the AC will be cycling on > and off, and will run about half of the time). Which means that a smaller > battery bank will be needed (2000 Ah (L-A)/1250 Ah (Li)). > > > There might be other considerations that might help reducing that size (e.g., > AC that draws less current). > > Hope it helps > > Marek > Ottawa, ON > > Sent from my Android-based can on a string > > > > > Original message > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Date: 2023-10-18 20:18 (GMT+01:00) > To: Stus-List > Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" , CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter > > Original message > From: CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > Date: 2023-10-18 20:18 (GMT+01:00) > To: Stus-List > Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" , CHARLES SCHEAFFER > > Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Sizing an inverter > > Very helpful. > > What is the proper math to determine battery bank size needed to run our AC > unit for twelve hours? I know a softstart would make it possible, and the > rated amp draw is 12.5 amps at 120vac. I'm considering getting a lithium > 200 ah and keeping a 100 ah AGM as a start battery. Solar panels are being > considered also. > > > > Thanks, > Chuck > > >> On 10/18/2023 12:50 PM EDT Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> >> If it helps, think of the inverter as a special kind of extension cord. It >> passes power from Point A to Point B. It does not create or store power. It >> needs to be bigger than the expected load put on it. >> >> The batteries need to be up to the task, but they do not create any power, >> they store it. If you want to use a lot of power, you have to generate a lot >> of power somehow. >> >> A huge battery bank, say big enough to run an air conditioner overnight, on >> a C with a stock charging system would work one night and then you would >> need to motor about 8-10 hours if you wanted to do it again. >> >> Joe >> >> Coquina >> >> >> >> *From:* Dreuge via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Wednesday, October 18, 2023 12:06 PM >> *To:* Richard Bush >> *Cc:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Dreuge >> *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Sizing an inverter >> >> >> >> Richard, >> >> >> >> My point is that one should not size an inverter relative a battery, but >> size it to ones expected needs. Folks often mix up or misuse terminology. >> If the maximum power consumed from an electric coffee pot is 1000 Watts. >> Then one would need at least a 1kW inverter, but should get something larger >> to avoid maxing the operating limits. Now the question is what battery can >> provide a constant 1000W for the 5 minutes to brew coffee. Of course >> battery needs are greater than brewing coffee and an energy audit would give >> a better estimate, but for the sake of simplicity, let’s only consider >> coffee needs. >> >> >> >> For a 12V battery system (12.5V lead acid), the 1000W of power (P = >> voltage* current) is provided by a battery current of 1000W/12.5V = 80A. >> So one would need a battery that can provide 80A of current for 5 minutes. >> A single 100A*hr lead acid type battery would be a poor choice as it would >> end up nearly depleted. Relative to a 100 A*hr LiFePO4 battery, the >> LiFePO4 battery would brew about 10 times more coffee! >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> - >> Paul E. >> >> 1981 C Landfall 38 >> S/V Johanna Rose >> Fort Walton Beach, FL >> >> >> >>
Stus-List Re: best coffee making setup on a boat
https://aeropress.com/ I have 2. Use the gas stove to make hot water in a teapot. It is similar to a French Press but the coffee is smoother and there are no fines in the bottom of the cup. It makes expresso shots which I just top up with water. Brew takes less than 30 seconds and clean up involves pushing the puck of grounds out the base and wiping it all clean. Don't bother wiping if you're just going in for a reload. It is all plastic and rubber so it is virtually indestructible. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Oct 17, 2023 16:38:56 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List : > I appreciate all the responses but it might be better to capture your great > coffee making ideas under a proper subject title so future coffee nerds can > find them. > > Chuck S >> On 10/17/2023 4:34 PM EDT Rick Brass via CnC-List >> wrote: >> >> >> Another caffeine addict/coffee snob here who uses a french press on the >> boat. (I dropped and broke the one from home during a boat delivery this >> spring.) I also have a high quality hand grinder from Japan on the boat, so >> no electricity required. (I do have a Krupps grinder plugged in here at >> home.) I got the impression when shopping for the coffee grinder that the >> Japanese seem to be a nation of coffee snobs. >> >> >> Rick Brass >> Imzadi >> C 38 mk2 >> Washington, NC >> >> -Original Message- >> From: Stus-List >> Sent: Oct 17, 2023 9:54 AM >> To: Stus-List >> Cc: j...@dellabarba.com , Korbey Hunt >> >> Subject: Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system >> >> >> >> I am also a coffee snob from Seattle. 500 watts of electricity is needed >> for coffee grinder. >> >> Get Outlook for Android[https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg] >> >> *From:* Joe Della Barba via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 17, 2023 6:48:16 AM >> *To:* 'Stus-List' >> *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system >> >> >> Its French Press for us, no electricity needed. >> >> Joe >> >> Coquina >> >> >> >> *From:* David Knecht via CnC-List >> *Sent:* Tuesday, October 17, 2023 9:18 AM >> *To:* CnC CnC discussion list >> *Cc:* David Knecht >> *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Jackery solar system >> >> >> >> And then of course there are the French Press or Pour Over devices that use >> hot water from the stove, no electric power, and make a much superior cup of >> coffee (yes, I am a coffee snob). Dave >> >> >> >> S/V Aries >> >> 1990 C 34+ >> >> New London, CT >> >> >> >> >> >> >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: Long Island sound
I had a good time checking out mystic seaport museum and actually didn't plan enough time. We also skipped over to shelter island and happened to catch the whaling days celebration. It was fun. There is an awesome sandwich shop in the center of town. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Aug 29, 2023 11:55:05 Joel Aronson via CnC-List : > We will be travelling from Mystic through LIS next month.Are there any 'must > see' places between Mystic and Port Washington on either shore? > > -- > Joel > Hylas 49 Rule One > formerly C 35 The Office > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: 37+ Steering Cable
37+ doesn't have conduits. Well mine didn't Aug 3, 2023 19:20:04 Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List : > I'm replacing the cables on my Edson Steering. The chain is in excellent > condition. But the cables and the conduit showed signs of wear. I can't > inspect the cables, and once pulled out of the conduit they won't go back in > if there is any bend to the cable. > I used 1\4 SS 304 7x19 cable, 4 aluminum crimp ferrels and 2 1\4 inch > thimbles. All sourced from Tacoma Screw. Total cost was less than $100. The > new conduits from Edison was a different story. $$$. > > > > > Douglas Mountjoy > 1988 C LF 39 > Mexico at large > 1984 Sabre 34 > Port Orchard, WA > > > On Thu, Aug 3, 2023, 12:46 Peter Fell via CnC-List > wrote: >> I noticed when visiting a local (Victoria BC) used and consignment shop that >> they had an Edson cable / chain kit on the shelf. Other than a quick look I >> didn't pay too much attention (obviously cable diameter was too large for my >> 27) but if you are interested I could explore further. >> >> Peter >> >> On Tue., Aug. 1, 2023, 12:55 p.m. Rob Hamlin via CnC-List, >> wrote: >>> Thinking about my my off season punch list. >>> >>> Steering system is next up, after motor mounts and running gear last year. >>> >>> Any idea on cable and idlers required? >>> >>> Thanks >>> Rob >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >>> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks for your help. >>> Stu >> Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and >> help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: >> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks for your help. >> Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help
So I called Amsoil for ya'. Tech support was omce again very helpful but I fell down when he started asking tech questions. So...I had to hang up, search online for an AT4 Tranny manual, figure out the OEM oil specs, and then call Amsoil back. With a better understanding of the tranny design, operation, and oil specs, I was able to convey the problem to the tech. He was quite knowledgeable and understood the situation. His only best product was this. https://www.amsoil.com/p/10w-30-synthetic-small-engine-oil-ase/ [cid:eu.faircode.email.9004] I asked about API SF and as expected he explained they don't make that anymore. I asked about an ISO equivalent and he was unable to advise on anything. His best advice besides the aforementioned product was to stay away from automotive oils since they ALL include friction modifiers. He assured me that the small engine oil did not. I also asked about 10w-30 vs straight weight and he did acknowledge that there were additives to help the oil flow better at cold temps but defended the product in that it's coefficient of friction was not affected by the viscosity additives. So if you run out of options give this a try. All the best! Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Aug 1, 2023 14:52:57 Della Barba, Joe : > Nothing wrong with multi-viscosity oil at all. I use Shell Rotella 15W40 > diesel oil. It has been a long time since single-weight oil was the only > viable choice. > > I even use Shell 15-50 in airplanes now that are right up there with the A4 > for antique tech. > > Joe > > Coquina > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 1, 2023 1:55 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help > > Y'all piqued my interest. The Castrol website is a bit of a pain to find > their motorcycle product specs. Ultimately, I found all of the motorcycle > oils are multi viscosity. So it seems like Castrol is out of the picture. I > have little to no experience with Castrol tech support but can attest to > phenomenal tech support from AMSOIL. Call their tech support and explain the > problem they can most likely find a product for your application based on > friction coefficients and viscosity, not based on designated product > application. > > I was overwhelmed by the choices of hydro oil for my backstay. The > manufacturer simply said ISO 32. What!? Amsoil tech support was very > helpful and found their power steering fluid to fit the bill. > > > Best of luck, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > Aug 1, 2023 11:28:58 Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List : > > It's classification is API SP .. As I said look for API SF or older ( for our > engines ). Several antifriction were added after SH/SF and in addition to > that, they reduced the famous "ZDDP" additive which is so important for the > last level protection to prevent oil breakdown. That ZDDP can clog catalist > converter but our A4 don't have that problem :-) > > I've done a 5 day motoring with my A4 and it did not burn oil noticeably ( > still close to the dipstick top mark ) and not really black/dirty. Still > original 1975 A4 . I change oil twice a year and when it is hot since we > don't have an oil filter. > > Castrol site says a few things about motorcycle oils and this was the oil > Moyer used to recommend on it's site.. > > MOTORCYCLE VS MOTOR OIL | Castrol® > USA[https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motorcycle-oil-and-fluids/motorcycle-vs-motor-oil.html] > > > > > > > **MOTORCYCLE VS MOTOR OIL | Castrol® USA** > > Many drivers wonder if you can use normal oil for their motorcycles. Learn > the key differences to settle the iss... > > Sylvain > > 1975 C > > On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 10:36:06 AM EDT, Paul Hood via CnC-List > wrote: > > This is the SAE30 oil I’m using. > > > > https://www.okpetroleummarketplace.com/castrol-sae-30-hd-30-motor-oil-6-quarts.html > > > > > > Paul Hood > > 416.799.5549 > > > > *From:* Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 1, 2023 10:09 AM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help > > > > I would think about an oil change and use oil designed for motorcycles with a > wet clutch and see if that helps. > > > > Joe > > Coquina > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help
Y'all piqued my interest. The Castrol website is a bit of a pain to find their motorcycle product specs. Ultimately, I found all of the motorcycle oils are multi viscosity. So it seems like Castrol is out of the picture. I have little to no experience with Castrol tech support but can attest to phenomenal tech support from AMSOIL. Call their tech support and explain the problem they can most likely find a product for your application based on friction coefficients and viscosity, not based on designated product application. I was overwhelmed by the choices of hydro oil for my backstay. The manufacturer simply said ISO 32. What!? Amsoil tech support was very helpful and found their power steering fluid to fit the bill. Best of luck, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Aug 1, 2023 11:28:58 Sylvain Laplante via CnC-List : > It's classification is API SP .. As I said look for API SF or older ( for our > engines ). Several antifriction were added after SH/SF and in addition to > that, they reduced the famous "ZDDP" additive which is so important for the > last level protection to prevent oil breakdown. That ZDDP can clog catalist > converter but our A4 don't have that problem :-) > > I've done a 5 day motoring with my A4 and it did not burn oil noticeably ( > still close to the dipstick top mark ) and not really black/dirty. Still > original 1975 A4 . I change oil twice a year and when it is hot since we > don't have an oil filter. > Castrol site says a few things about motorcycle oils and this was the oil > Moyer used to recommend on it's site.. > MOTORCYCLE VS MOTOR OIL | Castrol® > USA[https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motorcycle-oil-and-fluids/motorcycle-vs-motor-oil.html] > > > > > > *MOTORCYCLE VS MOTOR OIL | Castrol® USA* > > Many drivers wonder if you can use normal oil for their motorcycles. Learn > the key differences to settle the iss... > > [https://www.castrol.com/en_us/united-states/home/motorcycle-oil-and-fluids/motorcycle-vs-motor-oil.html]Sylvain > 1975 C > > > > > On Tuesday, August 1, 2023 at 10:36:06 AM EDT, Paul Hood via CnC-List > wrote: > > > This is the SAE30 oil I’m using. > > > > https://www.okpetroleummarketplace.com/castrol-sae-30-hd-30-motor-oil-6-quarts.html > > > > > > Paul Hood > > 416.799.5549 > > > > *From:* Joe Della Barba via CnC-List > *Sent:* Tuesday, August 1, 2023 10:09 AM > *To:* 'Stus-List' > *Cc:* j...@dellabarba.com > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Atomic 4 reversing - help, help > > > > I would think about an oil change and use oil designed for motorcycles with a > wet clutch and see if that helps. > > > > Joe > > Coquina > > Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help > me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > Thanks for your help. > Stu Please show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help me pay the associated bills. Make a contribution at: https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks for your help. Stu
Stus-List Re: diesel engine air filter
Neil, you're not wrong about the air being relatively clean but everyone should consider just how small 5 microns is while also remembering the last time the sound deadening material disintegrated all over the engine compartment. Its also fascinating the speed at which the bilge gets dirty on a clean boat. If the air truly is clean then ANY filter should last forever. If, on the other hand, there is some mishap then any filter will help mitigate damage to the engine. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jul 1, 2022, 20:03 schiller via CnC-List wrote: > So, not to get into the middle of this, but air filters are designed to > remove dust particles from the air. My tractors have oil filled air > filters to accomplish this. A boat, operating on a body of water is not in > a high dust environment. I figured this out with my first Atomic 4, that > did not have an air filter and explained it as not being in a high dust > environment. There are a lot of antique motorcycles that have open > ventures that have existed much longer than our boats. I am not opposed to > air filters, but our environment is not one that screams for anything other > than a silencer. > > Neil Schiller > 1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace" > Whitehall, Michigan > > On 7/1/2022 6:12 PM, Josh via CnC-List wrote: > > https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H-GI38vE4hQ > > In the first minute of the video you'll see my solution for high flow AND > high efficiency air filter at a reasonable price...well maybe not > reasonable - $48.98!!! > > AEM 21-2201DK DryFlow Air Filter https://a.co/d/i5pGWhj > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > Jun 29, 2022 16:52:12 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List > : > > Hey guys, > > A new air filter for my Universal M4-30 cost $17 and which seems expensive > for a simple ring of foam rubber sown like a bracelet. I removed the old > oil caked foam from the little screen and cleaned it up with solvent before > installing the new one and had to flatten the venturi to get a good fit. > The parts guy said it was more of a silencer than a filter. Anybody know > of a better air filter for a diesel engine like mine? > > Chuck Scheaffer Resolute 1989 C 34R > > On 06/29/2022 2:10 PM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Good to know. Ill check my 30 hp Yanmar. Last sumner running at WOT for > 1/2 hour the motor shut down. It restarted easily and ran fine. I cleaned > the fuel strainer but found no issues. Ill replace the air filter. > > Get Outlook for Android <https://aka.ms/AAb9ysg> > -- > *From:* Dave S via CnC-List > > *Sent:* Wednesday, June 29, 2022 10:06:46 AM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Dave S > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Yanmar 2 GMF > > Good to hear. How the heck did the old one get that clogged? Bad > decade for mosquitoes? > > Dave > > > > On Tue, 28 Jun 2022 at 22:19, Robert Abbott via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > While I awaited another day for a marine mechanic to get around to > addressing my engine problem, while on the boat today, I thought of > something.I had a new Yanmar air filter on the boat which I got last > year, which I thought what harm could a new air filter dochanged out > the old one and replaced with new one, and guess what, in neutral, the > engine revived up to 3,400 before i stoppedran the engine in forward > gear at the slip for another 20 minutes shut the engine > off...started again...revved up and downengine works as it should. > > The problem was a lack of airexplains where the smoke was coming > fromincomplete combustion...now, with the new air filter, no smoke. > > Thanks to everyone for thoughts/possibilities of what might be the cause > of my engine issue. > > Going for a sail tomorrow. > > Rob Abbott > AZURA > C 32 - #277 > Halifax, N.S. > > >
Stus-List Re: 37+ Polars
https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1mSEt5gP5gauUTnAeS_UILmcaMPhcxxGe I forget how I made the chart but when I graphed it I was able to check me work by overlaying the factory provided graph with mine. They match close enough for my needs. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Jun 15, 2022, 14:38 Josh Muckley wrote: > I have them. Just gotta find 'em. > > On Wed, Jun 15, 2022, 13:57 Edd Schillay via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Rob, >> >> I don’t have it in table format, but this may help you out: >> >> https://www.dropbox.com/s/ntlbe5eims3zd4u/37PlusPolars.pdf?dl=0 >> >> All the best, >> >> Edd >> >> >> On Jun 15, 2022, at 1:50 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> Anyone have the polars in a table format? >> >> Thanks >> Rob >> >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> >>
Stus-List Re: 37+ Polars
I have them. Just gotta find 'em. On Wed, Jun 15, 2022, 13:57 Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote: > Rob, > > I don’t have it in table format, but this may help you out: > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/ntlbe5eims3zd4u/37PlusPolars.pdf?dl=0 > > All the best, > > Edd > > > On Jun 15, 2022, at 1:50 PM, Rob Hamlin via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Anyone have the polars in a table format? > > Thanks > Rob > > > Sent from my iPhone > > >
Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes
I forget where I came across this guide but it has served me well. I don't recall needing a crimper. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yMTRmMzIxYTktMDcxOS00NmMyLTg0ZDQtODg1NjU5N2ZkMGJl/view?usp=drivesdk=0-Hr-2cV_NnRO2_bhpIbiGBw Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, May 30, 2022, 09:44 cenelson--- via CnC-List wrote: > A great idea although my mast is not routinely removed—twice since new in > 1995. > > At least this solution allows the cable to be disconnected and reconnected > without cutting it, which the Shakespeare connector requires. > > Of course, I would need a ‘crimper’ for the male connectors—as another > poster proclaimed “…it never ends…” > > Charlie > > PS: I am going to lean hard on the yard to do this fix—they were the one > who broke it—as other listers have suggested! > > > Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS > <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661> > > On Monday, May 30, 2022, 8:57 AM, Hoyt, Mike > wrote: > > You should put a connector there anyway so that you can remove the mast in > the future. Majority of boats at our club take down mast every year and > are set up this way. Basically same connector as at radio and antenna ends > of the cable with a barrel connector > > > > *From:* Charlie Nelson via CnC-List > *Sent:* May 28, 2022 7:27 PM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* cenel...@aol.com > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes > > > > About 8" from where it enters the bottom of the mast in the bilge (dry). > Except for working on my old knees and removing part of the sole, it is > reachable. I have not found the other end that goes to the radio but I > suspect it is hidden under the sole that I must remove to see/find it. > > > > Charlie > > -Original Message- > From: Andy Frame via CnC-List > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Andy Frame > Sent: Sat, May 28, 2022 4:26 pm > Subject: Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes > > > Where is the cut? > > > On 5/28/2022 12:07 PM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote: > > The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the > > mast antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or > > 'splice' the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that > > claim to connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc. > > > > Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints > > on how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense > > of someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I > > figured it was worth that much to give it a try. > > > > Thanks, > > > > Charlie Nelson > > Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb > > New Bern, NC > > > > > > > > > > -- > s/v MaryMe > 1975 C 24 > Port Labelle, FL USA > Amateur Radio WD4RCC > > > >
Stus-List Re: Antenna cable woes
Lots of options. You could terminate the 2 ends with the typical connectors and then use a joiner. You could use you're splicer. Nothing will ever be as good as the cable was before it was cut. I'd ask the yard to replace the cable. Period. They broke it, they should fix it... Correctly. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, May 28, 2022, 12:07 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > The yard that removed my mast to replace the rod rigging just cut the mast > antenna cable and so I either have to have another cable run or 'splice' > the current cable using one of the Sheakspeare fittings that claim to > connect the shield and the conductor without solder, etc. > > Has any one on the list used such connectors and had any luck (or hints on > how to proceed!) or am I faced with running new cable and the expense of > someone to climb the mast, etc. The connector was only $16 so I figured it > was worth that much to give it a try. > > Thanks, > > Charlie Nelson > Water Phantom C 36 XL/kcb > New Bern, NC > > > >
Stus-List Re: Marinas - Northern Chesapeake
I don't know if Brian Fry is still on the list but he lives on his boat(S) out of Havre De Grace. It is a bit of a stretch up the river but I imagine the slips are pretty cost effective. I believe he's at Log Pond IIRC? It's a marina tied to condos. Marine services are not their bread and butter so if you're looking for full service you should probably look elsewhere but the floating docks and break wall are certainly nice enough to store a boat for a month. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, May 26, 2022, 10:19 Joel Aronson via CnC-List wrote: > Brian, > > I don't know how long you can leave a boat on a mooring in Annapolis, but > a much cheaper option. Check with the harbormaster. There are several > marinas just north of Annapolis in Whitehall Bay that will be cheaper if > they have space. Or you can move north to the Magothy or Middle River. I > can't recommend specific marinas, but the Waterway Guide should help you > find the right place. > > Joel > > On Thu, May 26, 2022 at 10:12 AM nausetbeach--- via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> All, >> >> We may need to leave a boat in the northern Chesapeake for a couple weeks >> to a month this July. Can anybody recommend a marina with available slips >> or moorings that might not break the bank for a transient? Do not need >> lots of amenities and services [at least hope not.] Water and pump out, >> clean fuel a plus. >> >> >> >> The plan would be to eventually head north through the C and on to NYC >> and western LIS. Would also need to return a rental car and then a taxi or >> Uber back to the yard prior to departing. Have looked at Jabin’s and Port >> Annapolis, but might guess some other locations not in Annapolis might be >> less, though maybe not. Harge’s or Herrington Harbor North would be making >> a longer trip for the delivery, and do not appear to be relatively close to >> a rental car return, though maybe taxis / Uber might not be too bad. >> >> >> >> Any suggestions? >> >> >> >> Thanks, >> >> Brian >> > > > -- > Joel > >
Stus-List Re: Plumbing
The grey pipe is polybutyle (PB) and is marketed as Qest. It is not particularly resistant to chlorine and I've heard there is/was a class action lawsuit against the manufacturer. If you like, you can stick to the original fittings here. https://mobilehomedepotmi.com/plumbing/qest.html Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, May 23, 2022, 21:34 Josh Muckley wrote: > I'm not sure about the product you have but I have had extremely good > experience with this line of products. I very much like the way the they > tighten and firmly held. Easy to remove and reinstall too. > > https://www.flairit.com/flair-it.php > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Mon, May 23, 2022, 20:56 Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Alera has that old grey hoses for fresh water. I am installing a Raritan >> Fresh Head toilet that will require a connection to my pressurized water. >> Not sure when will and will not work with this old hose.. I picked this >> up. Not sure if it will mate up. >> >> 15mm Metric Series Quick Connect Plumbing System Unions, Union - Tee >> >> >> https://www.fisheriessupply.com/seatech-inc-15mm-metric-series-quick-connect-plumbing-system-adapters/2413-0815 >> >> Tom B >> Typoed from my iPhone >> >> Tom Buscaglia >> Alera 1990 C 37+/40 >> Vashon Island WA >> O 206.463.9200 >> C 305.409.3660 >> Skype - thombusc >> >> >>
Stus-List Re: Plumbing
I'm not sure about the product you have but I have had extremely good experience with this line of products. I very much like the way the they tighten and firmly held. Easy to remove and reinstall too. https://www.flairit.com/flair-it.php Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, May 23, 2022, 20:56 Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Alera has that old grey hoses for fresh water. I am installing a Raritan > Fresh Head toilet that will require a connection to my pressurized water. > Not sure when will and will not work with this old hose.. I picked this > up. Not sure if it will mate up. > > 15mm Metric Series Quick Connect Plumbing System Unions, Union - Tee > > > https://www.fisheriessupply.com/seatech-inc-15mm-metric-series-quick-connect-plumbing-system-adapters/2413-0815 > > Tom B > Typoed from my iPhone > > Tom Buscaglia > Alera 1990 C 37+/40 > Vashon Island WA > O 206.463.9200 > C 305.409.3660 > Skype - thombusc > > >
Stus-List Exhaust hose recommendation
I'm looking for a recommendation on the best exhaust hose. It appears that I have gotten my money's worth from the original 30 year old hose. I'm looking at various silicone options but I'm not sure if I should be going for corrugated or smooth. All advice appreciated in advance. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD
Stus-List Re: Rudder Post Grease Cup.
I probably should have been more clear. Consider using green grease. On Tue, Apr 26, 2022, 07:33 Josh Muckley wrote: > I installed remote grease fittings. > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1nMYjorVEGAQz7qe2yad6Mry6uJxDJOvz > > > Consider using this grease. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K6BjDMRWXsjeenlURzxj1x6x1278iH_c/view?usp=drivesdk > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Mon, Apr 25, 2022, 13:25 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Chuck or Charlie Nelson >> >> On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 11:46 AM John McCrea via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Hello all. I need to replace the grease cup on my rudder post. All >>> rusted up and no longer functional. Does anyone have a source for them? >>> Thanks! >>> >>> >>> >>> John McCrea >>> >>> Talisman >>> >>> 1979 36-1 >>> >>> Mystic, CT 06355 >>> >> -- >> Joel Delamirande >> *www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>* >> >>
Stus-List Re: Rudder Post Grease Cup.
I installed remote grease fittings. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1nMYjorVEGAQz7qe2yad6Mry6uJxDJOvz Consider using this grease. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1K6BjDMRWXsjeenlURzxj1x6x1278iH_c/view?usp=drivesdk Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Apr 25, 2022, 13:25 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Chuck or Charlie Nelson > > On Mon, Apr 25, 2022 at 11:46 AM John McCrea via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Hello all. I need to replace the grease cup on my rudder post. All rusted >> up and no longer functional. Does anyone have a source for them? Thanks! >> >> >> >> John McCrea >> >> Talisman >> >> 1979 36-1 >> >> Mystic, CT 06355 >> > -- > Joel Delamirande > *www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>* > >
Stus-List Re: Rudder issues
There is a good chance that every rudder in the yard is wet. The biggest risk is that the web that is welded to the shaft may rust to the point of failure and the shaft could then rotate in the rudder. Very worst case the fiberglass would fall away from the shaft. In the interim the water can freeze in the rudder and crack the fiberglass. Lots of owners drill drain holes in the fall and bondo them in the spring. I've heard of others wrapping the rudder in black plastic to help draw heat to prevent freezing. I had mine rebuilt by a local guy and while the rudder was completely water logged it is my assessment that it probably would have continued to be safe and functional indefinitely. The welds were immaculate and the web was bonded appropriately to the one of the fiberglass sides - port in this case. Attached are the pictures he took during the job. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA=0-0YHF96cEkxjrvru4nk9bbA Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Jan 5, 2022, 08:45 Brian Davis via CnC-List wrote: > Good morning everyone! Happy New Year! > > I've spent the last 2 weeks totally sanding Nina's bottom down to the gel > coat in prep for a new paint job using The Black Widow from Pettit. > > I came across some issues with the rudder yesterday and was wondering if > any of you have fixed similar. After sand it down too, I could tell there > was some glass and bondo work done on the trailing edge. I Dremeled out the > spots and have a great marine epoxy to fill since they aren't deep. > > However, there was water dripping from a hole or shaft of sorts on the > underside near the leading edge about a few inches back. I inserted a dowel > stick about 5" up and it seems solid. So drilled a hole where a previous > hole was on the bottom face of the starboard side. About 3oz of water came > out. The yard lead tech suggest I pull the rudder and send to FossFoam near > Gainesville FL to rebuild it. They quoted $2,000 and said that they were > probably the original manufacturer. > > Would love to hear your thoughts and experiences. Here is a link to some > pics. > > Regards, > Brian > 1980 Landfall 38SL > > > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1kFXgarL4apwcKsr6cjQxp41_qsU12Kcw > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Whisker pole with a 37/40+?
Bruce, I have installed a whisker pole. The link below is a folder for pictures of the entire mast project. Inside is a folder for the whisker pole. Forespar makes the telescoping pole with the adjustable T-track fitting and jaw. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm More details available upon request. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Nov 18, 2021, 09:28 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello all, > > I was wondering if you folks can give me some advice as to rigging a > whisker pole on our 37/40+. The boat, which has spent a good part of its > time on the west coast of Florida, was previously named "Dagny" and saw its > share of races. Yet, the boat does not have a whisker pole ring/car on the > front of the mast, and does not have a whisker pole onboard. Nor does it > have the equipment for a spinnaker pole, though the boat came with a > symmetrical spinnaker. > > I'd like to rig a whisker pole for use with our 150 Genoa and a large > asymmetrical spinnaker. > > Funny thing is, at the gooseneck, there is a bolt that holds the two > pieces together that has a ring mounted at the bottom. I don't think it > would get the perfect angle, but would it be that easy to rig the pole to > that ring? A photo of that bolt/ring can be found here: > > https://www.dropbox.com/s/re5kalfn9slfidr/Gooseneck%20Fitting.jpg?dl=0 > > The 150 and the asymmetrical will both have the clew behind the mast most > if not all the time I would be using it. In the case of the big > asymmetrical, I think it might be so far back as to bank up against the > rigging, though obviously I haven't used one on this boat as of yet. > > Can anyone provide any insights? > > Thank you!!! > > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C 37/40+ "Astralis" > Madeira Beach, FL > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Temperature gauge on Yanmar
The existing temperature light is run by a simple dedicated temperature switch. You would have to tee off the port and add a thermistor. Pipe fittings are easy and the gates usually come with MIP threaded sensors. Just add signal wire from the gage to the sensor. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Oct 27, 2021, 13:37 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: > Has anyone installed a dedicated temperature gauge on a yanmar engine > similar to 3GM30F? Can it be as simple as attaching to the sender unit > that goes to the idiot light on the control panel? > > > > When a panel alarm goes off I usually shut down the engine immediately and > forget to check which lamp was lit. Would be nice to have a temp gauge for > reference. I do have an oil pressure gauge and would love to have both > > > > Thanks > > > > Mike Persistence > > Haliofax > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: leeward layline
Bob, Maybe it's something you have to see to understand. Please don't take this as talking down to you, I'm simply trying to makes sure we are starting from the same baseline. VMG (velocity made good) or sometimes CS (course speed) is the speed of approach to the next way point. If you point directly at the way point then boat speed and VMG will be matched. If you were to point away from the mark then boat speed and VMG would begin to differ. The VMG is calculated by the chartplotter performing vector geometry using cosign of the angle between your layline and your course line multiplied by boat speed. As you move along your course line, the bearing to the mark will become greater and greater. This is the function by which boat speed can increase or stay the same but VMG will decrease. Assuming wind, wave, and current conditions are all equal on both tacks and tactics are not a factor - after each gybe VMG should be maximized. The helm should work with the sail team to find the course and sail trim that gets the best VMG. Shortly after the gybe a baseline will be found and as you move along the course you will be able watch the VMG start to lower due to the increasing angle of bearing to the mark. More than 45° bearing to the mark and VMG will be less than half of current boat speed. This is the very latest point at which you would want to gybe. Now that you are maximizing VMG, you can start throwing in the other factors... Tactics probably being the most important followed by the effects of wind, waves, and current. It is on these downwind runs that other boats can sneak up behind you and steal your wind. Wind shadow can project a distance of 8 times the height of the object. The windex points to the objects that are casting shadow so look behind you for boats where the arrow is pointing. You can try to block them from shadowing you by coming upwind (away from the mark) slightly (reducing VMG)... Eventually you or your competition is going to lose the fight and have to gybe. As you approach the mark the rounding is going to have a favored side and your foredeck is going to have a lot of work so make sure to give them room to raise the head sail, douse the spin, drop the pole, stow the topping lift, round the mark, come up to the wind, and possibly tack. Reset for the next spin run. Make sense? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Oct 6, 2021, 12:25 Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote: > I don't understand how either answer is telling me it's time to gybe. > > Bob > > On 10/06/2021 11:37 AM Shawn Wright via CnC-List > wrote: > > > I don't race, but do use VMG when trying to get our best time to > destination, especially on longer days. This works well enough in many long > channels and inlets with wind aligned with our course, but sometimes it's > not aligned. In these instances I'll have to try this trick for fooling the > VMG by giving it a waypoint at the far end of whatever channel we're > navigating. Of course, I'll have to read the B manual, as their UI is not > that intuitive, or things don't always work as you expect. > > -- > Shawn Wright > shawngwri...@gmail.com > S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35 > https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto > > On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 8:30 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Bob, > > First, let's define some terms. > > VMG (wind based) - the component of your velocity DIRECTLY upwind or > downwind. > > WCV - waypoint closure velocity. The component of your velocity headed > directly at your mark (assuming it's set in your GPS). This is often shown > on most GPS systems as VMG. > > Now, if you don't have an instrument system that calculates VMG, don't use > GPS VMG (WCV). The problem is that, as you approach the layline, WCV will > tend to zero. If you overstand and cross the layline, WCV will become > negative. While this is good information for when to tack or gybe, it's > usually too late. > > Here's how to fake your GPS into giving you VMG (wind based). Set a > waypoint well past the windward mark. Let's assume the race committee sets > a good W/L course with the windward mark directly upwind of the start. > Let's say the wind is from 000 and the windward mark is set at 000 for a 2 > mile leg. Enter a waypoint in your GPS at 000 20 miles out. By setting > the waypoint so far out, WCV will approximate VMG. > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Wed, Oct 6, 2021 at 10:03 AM Bob Mann via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I'm fairly new to flying a spinnaker. I did it last weekend in a race and > I believe I overstood the mark as we were sailing 110 AW before the gybe > and 85 AW heading directly to the mark. > > How does one determine when to gybe? > > Bob > Th
Stus-List Re: Fuel pump
I'm late to this discussion, sorry. If you have an electric fuel pump it should be connected before the racor. Suck directly from the tank and as close to the tank as possible, discharge into the racor. This eliminates the chance of a vacuum leak in the racor or anywhere else downstream of the pump since down stream is pressurized. Our era of boats were typically equipped with 200FG model racors. Glass/plastic or metal bowl for diesel. Metal bowl only for gasoline. I found venting to be a PIA. I've shared this before but here is a video that includes a mod for easier venting. This mod requires drilling and tapping the racor head. https://youtu.be/H-GI38vE4hQ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Sep 23, 2021, 10:14 David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: > Sorry if the start of the thread was lost somewhere. Quick summary: The > problem was the engine twice ran for some time and then died and would not > start. When I checked the Racor later, it was half full of fuel so > diagnosis was either electric fuel pump not working, plugged pickup tube or > vacuum leak somewhere so it could not pull fuel from tank. I have been > chasing those down and now confident the pump and pickup are working, and > vacuum leak is either in fuel line or Racor holder. That is why I decided > to replace fuel lines when several listers suggested that as most likely > culprit (from past experience with the same problem). Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Sep 23, 2021, at 10:02 AM, Chris Riedinger via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Also wondering if 'dont understand' goes a little deeper here > > > Do you mean the mechanical pump on your block or? > > Why are you chasing a fuel pump issue? Do you have a no-start? A boat > dying after a certain amount of time? Etc etc > > On Wed, Sep 22, 2021, 10:19 AM Dave S via CnC-List > wrote: > >> If there’s only one terminal on the pump itself then the metal chassis >> must be the ground. >> >> If you are referring to a schematic the ground wire may not be >> illustrated. >> >> Dave >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> > On Sep 22, 2021, at 10:16 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> > >> > I am trying to diagnose fuel issue. I dont understand pump wiring. >> There appears to be only one wire to pump. Where is it grounded? >> > >> > Sent from my iPhone >> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Using a broker
A broker might be able to help you find a boat and if you are getting a loan they can smooth the title, inspection, insurance, and loan process. If you are comfortable with handling those things yourself then I would consider foregoing the broker. Especially and specifically if the boat is local to you. Going into using a broker thinking that they are "looking out" for your interests as well or better than you would is IMO hopeful at best. The broker gets paid when they close the deal, not based on how much they saved you or the number of hours worked or the number of phone calls made. It is in the interest of the seller, the sellers agent, AND the buyers agent to close the deal quickly and at the highest price. The only person who wins by moving slow and methodical, searching for the best boat and the best deal is the buyer (you). Just my 2 cents, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Aug 23, 2021, 10:04 Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote: > Hello listers > > > We are considering/ starting our search and looking for something newer > and slightly larger than our current 1981 C > > I am sure this has been debated before. Do I need to have a buyers > broker( like real estate) looking our for my interests or is that an > unnecessary expense? I purchased my last 3 boats without one but they > were more local. > > Thanks > Adam Hayden > > Thanks > Adam > > Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network. > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Fridge Fans
Since you have 2, you can wire them in series and use on your 24v system. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Aug 18, 2021, 13:34 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > Some time ago during a discussion about keeping iceboxes evenly cooled, I > bought 2 tiny fans, and forgot the electric in my iceboxes is 24V. > > I have two, 1 ½” 12V, 0.12A fans that I will send to someone or split > up for a small contribution to Stu. > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: halyard/sheet bags
All the cabin top lines just get sent down the companionway. They hang straight and stay relatively untangled. The jib sheets are cut to length such that they only have a few feet of tail. Never really have too much problem with just those 2 lines being staged on the cockpit floor or on the bench. Any bag solutions I've ever seen or considered are just more trouble to load and unload and untangle. I alway consider the potential need to dump a sail in an emergency. A bag of spaghetti isn't helpful in that situation. YMMV Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Aug 14, 2021, 17:52 CHARLES SCHEAFFER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hey guys, > > What is everybody using for halyard bags for the lines next to the > companionway and also sheet bags for the genoa sheets. Anybody have > suggestions? Pictures? > > Chuck Scheaffer, Resolute 1989 C 34R > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Steering cable
Dave, I came across this video I made for someone else. Maybe it helps you out? https://youtu.be/SFLrjCPuKu0 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Aug 12, 2021, 15:37 David Knecht via CnC-List wrote: > I just watched the Edson video and it looks doable for a DIY project. I > am awaiting some info from Edson to know which kit to buy, unless someone > knows. My boat is not in their database online. In answer to Josh, the > cabin floor is not removable, but it looks like you can do this with > pedestal intact, so I plan to try that first. I am sure feeding the new > cable through will be its of fun. Thanks for the thoughts and > encouragement. Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > On Aug 12, 2021, at 3:30 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Dave, > > The hardest part about the cable is reeving into the pedestal. The cable > takes on a "set" so getting both ends to pass through the narrow passages > can be a trick. I'd use a long piece of nylon string. Attach each end of > the string to a corresponding end of the cable use tape to secure and > smooth the attachment. In the pedestal under the compass is the gear and > chain. A coat hanger is useful for lifting the chain from the gear and > then gently withdraw the cable/chain while feeding the strings up in its > place. Probably might need 2 people. With 2 strings now extended out the > top be careful to not cross them. Reverse the process for reinstalling. > You'll want to be sure to center the chain on the gear while in the gear is > top dead center. When aligning the cable to ride on the idlers I used a > small zip tie to temporarily hold the cable to the idler while attaching it > to the bull gear. > > Does the 34+ have the removable cockpit floor to access the steering? > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > On Thu, Aug 12, 2021, 13:49 John Irvin via CnC-List > wrote: > >> You need someone nimble and experienced! >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Aug 12, 2021, at 1:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> A friend at our yacht club had his steering cable snap the other day. >> I had been planning a steering system lube and check for a few years and >> this motivated me to move it to the top of my priority list. While I was >> lubing and checking yesterday, I found one spot with broken wires on the >> cable. >> 1. I was hoping to replace it in the Fall/Spring when the boat is out of >> the water. Should I be more worried and plan to do it sooner? There is >> plenty of intact cable, but I don’t know what causes these breaks and if >> they are an indication of imminent failure. >> 2. the area under the pedestal is inaccessible without removing the >> pedestal. Obviously that is a big job, which I have never done. Is it >> possible to replace the cable without removing the pedestal? Would I be >> smart to hire someone to do this job (PITA for me, but easier for someone >> experienced)? >> Thanks- Dave >> >> S/V Aries >> 1990 C 34+ >> New London, CT >> >> >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Steering cable
Dave, The hardest part about the cable is reeving into the pedestal. The cable takes on a "set" so getting both ends to pass through the narrow passages can be a trick. I'd use a long piece of nylon string. Attach each end of the string to a corresponding end of the cable use tape to secure and smooth the attachment. In the pedestal under the compass is the gear and chain. A coat hanger is useful for lifting the chain from the gear and then gently withdraw the cable/chain while feeding the strings up in its place. Probably might need 2 people. With 2 strings now extended out the top be careful to not cross them. Reverse the process for reinstalling. You'll want to be sure to center the chain on the gear while in the gear is top dead center. When aligning the cable to ride on the idlers I used a small zip tie to temporarily hold the cable to the idler while attaching it to the bull gear. Does the 34+ have the removable cockpit floor to access the steering? Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Aug 12, 2021, 13:49 John Irvin via CnC-List wrote: > You need someone nimble and experienced! > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Aug 12, 2021, at 1:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > A friend at our yacht club had his steering cable snap the other day. I > had been planning a steering system lube and check for a few years and this > motivated me to move it to the top of my priority list. While I was lubing > and checking yesterday, I found one spot with broken wires on the cable. > 1. I was hoping to replace it in the Fall/Spring when the boat is out of > the water. Should I be more worried and plan to do it sooner? There is > plenty of intact cable, but I don’t know what causes these breaks and if > they are an indication of imminent failure. > 2. the area under the pedestal is inaccessible without removing the > pedestal. Obviously that is a big job, which I have never done. Is it > possible to replace the cable without removing the pedestal? Would I be > smart to hire someone to do this job (PITA for me, but easier for someone > experienced)? > Thanks- Dave > > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List 37+forward hatch - Lewmar Ocean 70?
The glass on my forward hatch is pretty badly crazed. Recently I discovered that the hatch is also leaking around the glass to frame seal. Two questions. What thickness is the glass? What sealant is used to hold the glass to the frame? Thanks Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays - Now general dyneema and lifelines
This is a collection of the resources, tools, and hardware I used to make my dyneema stuff. For the lifelines I used 1/4" dyneema and made locked brummel eye splices supported by thimbles. You have to be able to thread the rope eye through the stanchions THEN install the thimble. Solid thimbles prevent the sharp corners found on split thimbles. I got the double eye's for the gates but could be persuaded to only use the pelican hooks and thimbles. The double eyes have the disadvantage of being loose when the gate is open and subsequently creating a pinch hazard while boarding. Without the double eyes the pelican hooks could be arranged such that when they are released the entire lifeline goes loose. This may be an advantage for MOB or boarding in non-standard/non-gated locations such as when you have to use a really short finger pier. I luggage tag one of the ends with an eye splice and no thimble to the bow. Same welded fitting where the wire rope attached previously. Thread the line back, and then terminate about 6 inches shy of the aft fitting. The remaining 6" is lashed with 1/8th or 3/32 dyneema. Figuring out this distance isn't intuitive since burying the tail results in a shortening of the line... Then tapering the tail results in a restoration of some of the lost length. Trial and error is pretty much the only way. I'll see if I can find some pictures. https://l-36.com/soft_shackles.php?menu=4 https://stingysailor.com/2015/06/27/diy-soft-shackles-for-quick-and-easy-headsail-changes-2/ https://www.l-36.com/brummel2.php https://d-splicer.com https://rigworks.com/replacing-your-lifelines/ https://www.fisheriessupply.com/johnson-marine-splice-line-lifeline-mini-pelican-hook/ls-3170 https://www.sailrite.com/Thimble-Solid-Stainless-Steel-for-Wire-to-1-4 https://www.defender.com/category.jsp?id=2358492=-1|118|2358491 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Wire vs. Dyneema check stays
I'm a huge fan of dyneema. It is relatively cheap and easy to finish yourself with few if any special tools. I currently have lifelines, topping lift, various soft shackles and continuous loops made of dyneema. No problems. I might reconsider using it for standing rigging but everything else I'd advocate for unequivocally. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jul 23, 2021, 20:45 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: > Do you actually use these? Our frers 33 has check stays and although they > help with main shape we rarely use them due to added complications tacking > etc > > Mike > Peraiatence > Halifax > -- > *From:* cenelson via CnC-List > *Sent:* July 23, 2021 9:26:54 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* cenelson > *Subject:* Stus-List Wire vs. Dyneema check stays > > > I have decided to replace my standing rigging on Water Phantom, my now 26 > yr old 1995 C XL/kcb. > > The rigger has recommended staying with a rod replacement vs. wire to > better match the rod fittings, esp. at the mast head and to save money. > > He also recommends going with dyneema, instead of wire, for the check > stays. > > My concern is uv damage to the dyneema which I understand has been a > problem with using it vs. wire. > > His response is that the early coatings used to protect dyneema led to > short lifetimes but that the newer coatings have solved that problem. > > OTOH, my wire check stays are still fine “…after all these years…” > > My question is should I go with dyneema for the checks or stay with new > wire assuming the costs are similar? > > Thanks, > > Charlie Nelson > > > Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS > <https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-video/id646100661> > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy
Well the melting point of solder is about 460°F and I'm sure the iron gets hotter than that so who knows what the temp of the bolt got to. I've used my oven set at minimum (170°) to help cure epoxy when the temperatures are too cold out side. Worked great. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Jul 23, 2021, 15:29 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > And Yet, they cure these epoxy and carbon fiber at 150 - 180 Degrees in an > oven! > > -Original Message- > From: Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2021 1:58 PM > To: Stus-List > Cc: Della Barba, Joe > Subject: Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy > > Next time I get in an epoxy-composite airplane on a hot day I am going to > be nervous! > > Joe > Coquina > > -Original Message- > From: Jeff Nelson via CnC-List > Sent: Friday, July 23, 2021 11:15 AM > To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com > Cc: Jeff Nelson > Subject: [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy > > Glad it ended well. > > Cheers, >Jeff > > On 2021-07-23 10:17 a.m., Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > > Well, Adrian wins the Bronze Thunder Mug - I put a 90/130 watt > > soldering gun on the stud for about 3 minutes, put some Garr-Pike > Vice-Grips on, JUST 2 THREADS showing to grab onto! > > > > I couldn't believe when I heard creaking noises as it reluctantly backed > out! I was sure I was seeing things. I was so happy I could about shit. > > > > Anyways, my mini-crisis averted, once again the list has pulled > > through - Thanks to all, for all the suggestions. > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Broken Bolt in Epoxy
I'd get a 1/8 reverse drill bit. Drill hogs make a great product. Heat it with a soldering iron and then after getting a good center punch on the remaining stud start the reverse drill. Epoxy will be gooey and should let it go pretty easy. You could probably get away pretty easily with a butane soldering iron. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZJLJ3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_367PHHW6XASTMHSCVXY6 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07YQWDQRN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_glt_fabc_99Q69HSZBK6QXPV0RQWZ Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jul 20, 2021, 14:41 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > I have a Broken ¼ - 20 broken carriage bolt with around 2 threads showing > out my transom. > > 1 ½” is embedded in epoxy. An easy-out seems unlikely. I did four, three > of them unscrewed successfully, but apparently I didn’t coat this one > thoroughly enough with the Vaseline. > > > > I am thinking that if I can heat the bolt up to around 300 degrees or so, > it will break the bond with the epoxy. A soldering iron seems **maybe** > possible, but that is only one side. I was wondering if I could heat it up, > like plumbers do with welders to melt frozen water lines, it might be an > option. > > But I don’t understand enough about electrical resistance to know how to > go about it. Using a battery for juice seems risky, having seen what > happens when I have shorted them out with a wrench – > > I do have a 30 amp adjustable Powerwerks power supply, which seems a > little safer. > > What I don’t understand, is if I can put a positive on one end of the > bolt, and negative on the other, will it heat the bolt, or will it just > melt the insulation off the wires? Or ruin the power supply? Or is it a > factor of the gauge of the wires? > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Surface Maintenance
Sounds like you are confusing 2 different gelcoat treatments. What you described would be a reasonable choice for rejuvenating original gelcoat to a factory shine. Best likelihood of success is the hull sides - the freeboard above the water and below the rub rail. Typically you would NOT do that process to remove a failing top coat. Certainly not with the hopes of saving or restoring the gel coat below. That's not to say it is impossible but it is a lot of work especially if you are already planning on a top coat of something else. Besides that top coat was probably applied after a 100 or 80 grit sanding so you would be working to not just remove the failed non-skid but also sand out the 100 grit scratches without removing the full thickness of original gelcoat - again just to paint over it. It sounds like kiwi grip would be a good option for your project. The surface prep is to simply remove loose paint and clean thoroughly. They recommend sanding with 100 grit (IIRC) but I have had plenty of success just applying it to the clean gelcoat. You mask off, trowel it on with a 1/16 V-groove, then roll the desired texture with the included roller. Promptly remove the mask and clean up with water. It is very user friendly and covers lots of defects. Happy to answer any other questions about it. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Jul 14, 2021, 11:11 SV Mary Me via CnC-List wrote: > A previous owner painted some kind of anti-skid on most of the topsides, > and in some places it's flaking off. All it's actually done is give mildew > a solid grip to grow so I have to pressure wash every few months. > > I've got no experience with gelcoat and fibreglass, but from what I have > been able to put together, I can try and scrape the coating and residue > off, then use progressively higher grit hand sanding, finishing with a > buffing wheel to get the surface as smooth as can be done. > > I have a number of small cracks and spiderwebbing that I'll need to > address at the same time. It's going to have to be painted once > everything is done. > > Thoughts on removing the coating and smoothing the surface for painting? > Thanks. > > s/v Mary Me > 1975 C 24 > Alva, Florida USA > > Sent with ProtonMail <https://protonmail.com/> Secure Email. > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Where to start with a gradually stiffening rudder? [C 34]
Lots of owners have installed zerk fittings to grease their rudders. Careful use of an drill bit followed by an end mill bit through the rudder shaft tube produce a hole that can be tapped to receive a pipe fitting or zerk. I added hydraulic hoses to mine so that I can remotely and easily charge grease. Of course the stiffness you feal may be coming from some other part of the steering system. Pedestal Bearings need just a dab of white lithium grease. The sheaves (and axles) at the bottom of the pedestal have bronze on stainless steel wear interface that needs a drop of any 30 weight oil. The chain gets a drop or two of 30 weight as well. That being said, If I had to guess, the rudder shaft is gummed up. I would try to get WD40 to wick down the shaft to clean and loosen the gum... Unless you are in a position to drop the rudder and clean it properly. That would make drilling your zerk ports easier too. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1nMYjorVEGAQz7qe2yad6Mry6uJxDJOvz Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jun 28, 2021, 18:59 Andrew Means via CnC-List wrote: > Hey all - > > When we bought our 1978 C 34 it had a nice smooth rudder action via our > wheel helm. Over the past two years it's gradually stiffened and I think we > need some amount of lubrication, but I'm not really sure where to start to > diagnose the issue and come up with a plan to fix it. Anybody familiar with > the steering setup on the 34? > > Andrew > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD
Wow, great to hear that 1/4 was still flexible enough. Josh On Thu, Jun 17, 2021, 12:31 Alan Liles via CnC-List wrote: > I replaced my fixed port lights two years ago. I used 1/4 “extruded > plexiglas with VHB tape and Dow 795. The plexi had enough flex to > accommodate the curve of the cabin and the VHB tape held it in place. The > 795 was used to seal the gap. The installation was the easiest part of that > job. The removal of the old plexi and the repairs to the damaged gel coat > took the most time. The guy who cut my plexi was a bit of a butcher so I > spent a day with a file smoothing out the chatter marks on the edges. In > the end it looked great and, so far, no leaks. > > Cheers, Al > SV Elendil > C 37/40+ > Vancouver BC > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD
Len Mitchell did his last year. For anyone who didn't know, he sold his boat a few weeks ago and has since unsubscribed from the list. He bought a full 4x8 sheet but only needed 2x8 so he has offered to provide me with his remaining piece. Unfortunately he lives in Ontario Canada. The drive alone is enough but with Covid-19 protocols entering and exiting Canada, it's even less worth the effort... Even for free glass. Here are a few pics he provided. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1iDAimrcFp8tdOHpFu1S1zKSR_iz1nQQy Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Jun 14, 2021, 20:18 Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote: > 3/8" is standard, I hope that's a typo. 3/16" is pretty thin... > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > > On Sun, 13 Jun 2021 at 20:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat. Looks like I'm >> going to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be >> ridiculously expensive. $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping. I'm >> pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be >> proportionally less and less expensive. If someone would like me to >> coordinate buying a larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be >> happy to do so. You'd have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house. I >> need to get this ordered quickly so speak up if you're interested. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD
There is absolutely no chance that it is 3/8ths. It's not a port hatch. It's a long thin window that needs to be slightly bent to conform to the curve of the boat. I measured it at 5mm but the next closest imperial measure is 3/16ths. Too thick and it won't bend and even if it does the tips have too much tendency to pull up since they are only held by VHB tape. 1/4 inch is quite rigid. On Mon, Jun 14, 2021, 20:18 Jim Watts via CnC-List wrote: > 3/8" is standard, I hope that's a typo. 3/16" is pretty thin... > > Jim Watts > Paradigm Shift > C 35 Mk III > Victoria, BC > > > On Sun, 13 Jun 2021 at 20:54, Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat. Looks like I'm >> going to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be >> ridiculously expensive. $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping. I'm >> pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be >> proportionally less and less expensive. If someone would like me to >> coordinate buying a larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be >> happy to do so. You'd have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house. I >> need to get this ordered quickly so speak up if you're interested. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD
Graham, it's not that I can't find a supplier of acrylic glass but rather that they don't have the grey tint and 8 foot length. They can order it just as well as I but typically require delivery to their door not mine and 4x8 full sheet not a 2x8 half. Seems silly I know. I've pretty well accepted the idea but thought I might save or split the freight costs for another lister. On Mon, Jun 14, 2021, 13:34 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Does maritime plastics still exist? > > > > J > > > > *From:* G Donald Wagner via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, June 14, 2021 11:23 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* G Donald Wagner > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th > plexi in MD > > > > Hi all > > > > I've used Read Plastics in Rockville Md for a source in the past. I > believe they have been sold to Piedmont recently, but still are at the same > location and still handle polycarbonate and other sheet plastics. > > I've also used Maritime Plastics in Aannapolis as well > > > Don Wagner > > Shady Side Md > > > > C 41 CB > > Der Baron > > -Original Message- > From: John Conklin via CnC-List > To: Stus-List > Cc: John Conklin > Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2021 9:43 am > Subject: Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD > > Josh, > > I am desperate to do my windows on my 37! Not sure when I will get to it > as I will need some help doing some crazing repair and whatever develops > when I pop em out > > But pretty the plexi won’t go bad! > > :) > > > > John Conklin > > S/V Halcyon > > S/V Heartbeat > > > > On Jun 14, 2021, at 6:03 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > There also has to be a local supplier, I live in a small-ish city (400k > people) and can name at least 3 places that sell plastic sheets. > > Graham Collins > > Secret Plans > > C 35-III #11 > > On 2021-06-14 6:51 a.m., Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote: > > Hi Josh, > > If none of your windows are longer than 4' you may find it more economical > to purchase from McMasterCarr even though the material does cost more. I > bought 3'x4'x1/4" https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K739-8505K962/ > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmaster.com%2F8505K739-8505K962%2F=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313487697%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=ehMaO9zg9Pw%2BAujbxWaYMr8ha8%2F6TwAMAvAIl49upfk%3D=0> > for $130 + ~$30 shipping here in MA which was enough to do all 4 windows on > my C 34 (they also have 3/16" if you want to go thinner > https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K733-8505K862/ > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmaster.com%2F8505K733-8505K862%2F=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313497698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=GGcoOl%2FMwmy7slJldDfVyrZy%2BEBHyPgPaCMNN%2Br4lh8%3D=0> > for $105). It also arrives quickly (often the next day for me) even with > ground shipping since they are here on the east coast. > > Nathan > > S/V Wisper > > 1981 C 34 > > Lynn MA > > > > On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 11:54 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat. Looks like I'm > going to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be > ridiculously expensive. $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping. I'm > pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be > proportionally less and less expensive. If someone would like me to > coordinate buying a larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be > happy to do so. You'd have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house. I > need to get this ordered quickly so speak up if you're interested. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313497698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJ
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD
I checked piedmont but they also have to order it and simply forward the exorbitant freight charges to me. I would have to buy a 4x8 sheet from them. On Mon, Jun 14, 2021, 13:34 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Does maritime plastics still exist? > > > > J > > > > *From:* G Donald Wagner via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, June 14, 2021 11:23 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* G Donald Wagner > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th > plexi in MD > > > > Hi all > > > > I've used Read Plastics in Rockville Md for a source in the past. I > believe they have been sold to Piedmont recently, but still are at the same > location and still handle polycarbonate and other sheet plastics. > > I've also used Maritime Plastics in Aannapolis as well > > > Don Wagner > > Shady Side Md > > > > C 41 CB > > Der Baron > > -Original Message- > From: John Conklin via CnC-List > To: Stus-List > Cc: John Conklin > Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2021 9:43 am > Subject: Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD > > Josh, > > I am desperate to do my windows on my 37! Not sure when I will get to it > as I will need some help doing some crazing repair and whatever develops > when I pop em out > > But pretty the plexi won’t go bad! > > :) > > > > John Conklin > > S/V Halcyon > > S/V Heartbeat > > > > On Jun 14, 2021, at 6:03 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > There also has to be a local supplier, I live in a small-ish city (400k > people) and can name at least 3 places that sell plastic sheets. > > Graham Collins > > Secret Plans > > C 35-III #11 > > On 2021-06-14 6:51 a.m., Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote: > > Hi Josh, > > If none of your windows are longer than 4' you may find it more economical > to purchase from McMasterCarr even though the material does cost more. I > bought 3'x4'x1/4" https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K739-8505K962/ > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmaster.com%2F8505K739-8505K962%2F=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313487697%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=ehMaO9zg9Pw%2BAujbxWaYMr8ha8%2F6TwAMAvAIl49upfk%3D=0> > for $130 + ~$30 shipping here in MA which was enough to do all 4 windows on > my C 34 (they also have 3/16" if you want to go thinner > https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K733-8505K862/ > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmaster.com%2F8505K733-8505K862%2F=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313497698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=GGcoOl%2FMwmy7slJldDfVyrZy%2BEBHyPgPaCMNN%2Br4lh8%3D=0> > for $105). It also arrives quickly (often the next day for me) even with > ground shipping since they are here on the east coast. > > Nathan > > S/V Wisper > > 1981 C 34 > > Lynn MA > > > > On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 11:54 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat. Looks like I'm > going to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be > ridiculously expensive. $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping. I'm > pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be > proportionally less and less expensive. If someone would like me to > coordinate buying a larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be > happy to do so. You'd have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house. I > need to get this ordered quickly so speak up if you're interested. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313497698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=qXW9PgQOaVyvNd95hKalLF3O7nK%2F8RPJh8CzTVTbFPM%3D=0> > Thanks - Stu > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to s
Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD
No I checked on Martine Platics. I also consider McMaster-Carr but my windows are about 8 ft total length. Joe, if you have plastic you are willing to part with I could be interested if it is the same specs as that for which I'm already looking. On Mon, Jun 14, 2021, 13:34 Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Does maritime plastics still exist? > > > > J > > > > *From:* G Donald Wagner via CnC-List > *Sent:* Monday, June 14, 2021 11:23 AM > *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com > *Cc:* G Donald Wagner > *Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th > plexi in MD > > > > Hi all > > > > I've used Read Plastics in Rockville Md for a source in the past. I > believe they have been sold to Piedmont recently, but still are at the same > location and still handle polycarbonate and other sheet plastics. > > I've also used Maritime Plastics in Aannapolis as well > > > Don Wagner > > Shady Side Md > > > > C 41 CB > > Der Baron > > -Original Message- > From: John Conklin via CnC-List > To: Stus-List > Cc: John Conklin > Sent: Mon, Jun 14, 2021 9:43 am > Subject: Stus-List Re: 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD > > Josh, > > I am desperate to do my windows on my 37! Not sure when I will get to it > as I will need some help doing some crazing repair and whatever develops > when I pop em out > > But pretty the plexi won’t go bad! > > :) > > > > John Conklin > > S/V Halcyon > > S/V Heartbeat > > > > On Jun 14, 2021, at 6:03 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > > There also has to be a local supplier, I live in a small-ish city (400k > people) and can name at least 3 places that sell plastic sheets. > > Graham Collins > > Secret Plans > > C 35-III #11 > > On 2021-06-14 6:51 a.m., Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote: > > Hi Josh, > > If none of your windows are longer than 4' you may find it more economical > to purchase from McMasterCarr even though the material does cost more. I > bought 3'x4'x1/4" https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K739-8505K962/ > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmaster.com%2F8505K739-8505K962%2F=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313487697%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=ehMaO9zg9Pw%2BAujbxWaYMr8ha8%2F6TwAMAvAIl49upfk%3D=0> > for $130 + ~$30 shipping here in MA which was enough to do all 4 windows on > my C 34 (they also have 3/16" if you want to go thinner > https://www.mcmaster.com/8505K733-8505K862/ > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.mcmaster.com%2F8505K733-8505K862%2F=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313497698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=GGcoOl%2FMwmy7slJldDfVyrZy%2BEBHyPgPaCMNN%2Br4lh8%3D=0> > for $105). It also arrives quickly (often the next day for me) even with > ground shipping since they are here on the east coast. > > Nathan > > S/V Wisper > > 1981 C 34 > > Lynn MA > > > > On Sun, Jun 13, 2021 at 11:54 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat. Looks like I'm > going to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be > ridiculously expensive. $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping. I'm > pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be > proportionally less and less expensive. If someone would like me to > coordinate buying a larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be > happy to do so. You'd have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house. I > need to get this ordered quickly so speak up if you're interested. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.paypal.me%2Fstumurray=04%7C01%7C%7Cfe413f46808e428828f008d92f1bb54c%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637592618313497698%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=qXW9PgQOaVyvNd95hKalLF3O7nK%2F8RPJh8CzTVTbFPM%3D=0> > Thanks - Stu &
Stus-List 2'x8' sheet of smoke grey 3/16th plexi in MD
I'm about to buy the plexi for the windows on my boat. Looks like I'm going to have to order it from California and the shipping is going to be ridiculously expensive. $150 for the glass and $130 for the shipping. I'm pretty sure that a larger sheet and or multiple sheets will be proportionally less and less expensive. If someone would like me to coordinate buying a larger sheet to share, or more than 1 sheets, I'd be happy to do so. You'd have to arrange pickup or delivery from my house. I need to get this ordered quickly so speak up if you're interested. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Shroud tension
Bill, As this topic has come up in previous discussions you might find more answers if you try a search of the archives. That being said (IIRC), Loose recommends between 10% and 15% of break strength. The owners manuals typically recommend something to the effect of "visibly slack when broad reaching in 10 to 15 kts". It doesn't seem like you are too far off. Page 10 of the 37+ manual discusses rig tuning. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1ySXFBdDhrX0ZaMzNnazViYkZzRVRoODlSSUd3/view?usp=drivesdk Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Jun 1, 2021, 09:49 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Good morning, >I dont have a loose gauge for my solid shrouds. Wondering how much > slack do you see on leeward shrouds when on beam reach in 10 knots of > wind? Shrouds seem tight enough when at the dock, but a little floppy on > leeward side when sailing. > Bill Walker > CnC 36-1 > Pentwater, Mi. > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 3HM35F oil capacity puzzle
I can't recall exactly but if you asked me how much oil I buy in preps for an oil change I would have said 6 qts without even thinking about it. I use a hand vacuum pump but can't recall it's capacity. As I recall it was the larger of the 2 Moeller models at the time when I bought it. The suction hoses have a metal rod inside which allows you to pre-bend the tube to better suck hard to reach area. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Yanmar 3HM35F Solomons, MD On Sun, May 16, 2021, 20:18 Tom Buscaglia via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Every time I change oil on Alera I check the engine spec for the Yanmar 3HM35F > that calls for 5.7 quarts. I have never been able to get more than 4 > quarts out or in. > > I use an electric pump extractor via the dip stick hole. I understand > that the angle of the engine on my 37+ results in the oil laying at the aft > end of the pan and try to make sure the tube gats all the way back there. > > Anyone else been able to replace over 4 quarts! > > Tom Buscaglia > S/V Alera > 1990 C 37+/40 > Vashon WA > P 206.463.9200 > C 305.409.3660 > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Question re heater transom exhaust thru hull
Mike, I don't know if it changes anything but ALL of my discharge and exhaust ports come out under the reverse transom. You can see it in the video linked below. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yb1hNSENwOHRaZ1k/view?usp=drivesdk Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, May 4, 2021, 15:19 Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote: > Wondering if anyone on this list has installed a forced air heater with > the exhaust thru hull on a reverse transom? > > > > The thru hull I purchased can be seen has an elbow to force the exhaust > hose into an upward loop but with a reverse transom there is potential for > water to build up at this elbow joint. > > > > Has anyone experience with this and how it is typically resolved? > > > > Thanks > > > > Mike Hoyt > > Persistence > > Halifax NS > > www.hoytsailing.com > > > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Line question
Yes Ron, double braid is really the only best option. It appears that you have interpreted the graph in the same manner as I. There are a few other factors that are going to impact your choice. I got the Samson XLS dirt cheap for my check stays. I chose it for its cost first, color second, and ability to splice core to core third. It has performed fine in this application. My only complaint is that it doesn't flake neatly and I'm regularly fighting with hockles. Sta-set has never given me the problems that XLS does. If you can find the novabraid in a desirable color I might suggest pursuing that option. There is a color scheme that I found online which you may want to consider. Green for mainsail, blue for headsail, red for spinnaker. Solids for halyards. Various fleck colors and patterns for the sheets and control lines. In this manner you and anyone else can quickly identify any line associated with the mainsail because of its "green" scheme. And since you are talking about a halyard, a lot of people like to make a core to core eye splice for attaching to the headboard shackle. Consider that the spice will stiffen and thicken line for 1 to 2 feet. This is the exact area where the line will pass through the masthead sheave. It is also the place where added resistance when hoisting the main is least desired. Instead you might try a double over hand on itself. Read more here: http://www.caves.org/section/vertical/nh/46/doitie.html Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Apr 27, 2021, 21:40 Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Thanks folks for all the responses. I know a lot more than before, > although still sadly lacking. Thanks for the PS article which helped some > as well. > If I've understood correctly, the general consensus seems to be a double > braid is the way to go for a guy just cruising around. > I did remember one response that mentioned that Sta-set might be more > expensive than needed. What would be cheaper versions of a double braid. > Would Novabraid and Samson XLS be examples? I do recall the Samson name > from decades ago. Was there a double braid from Samson cheaper than XLS > that's still around? > Ron > Wild Cheri > C 30-1 > STL > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: rudder seam
Cracks like that often happen when a water logged rudder freezes in the off season. Mine was not cracked but it was very saturated. The attached link shows what was involved when the fiberglass guy did the repairs. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1yVUdWUDNxVGFUcDA Dan Cormier did a rebuild himself and shared the video here: https://youtu.be/Ryfjgdu_l4w All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Apr 24, 2021, 17:14 G Gao via CnC-List wrote: > Continuing my adventure with sailing and my boat...looking for advise from > experienced sailors, as always... > > Today as I was observing the hull condition, I found that my rudder had > the seam showing in this picture: > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1D5lgN8g9YE9EAxo4RPYL9sO4vUnhYVqF/view?usp=sharing > > Is this something serious or I can patch it up myself? > > thank you in advance. > > Bo > > > -- > 1974 C 35 MK2 > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Line question
Ron, Here's a link to a PS article on line stretch to cost. They wrote the article to show stretch to cost value. In your case you might be able to use the inverse and simply look for the stretchy and cheap? I have the ubiquitous sta-set on my mainsheet and traveller. This was a choice of convenience more than anything. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B8pEh5lnvP1ySGpOTUdGRW9xdzQ All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Apr 24, 2021, 15:34 Ken Heaton via CnC-List wrote: > Yes. One exception is that there is a school of thought that the > traveller should use something stretchy, like mountain climbing rope, to > absorb the shock of a jibe. Apparently getting a piece of used climbing > line shouldn't be that difficult. > > Ken H. > > On Sat, 24 Apr 2021 at 16:25, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> This question shows a terrible lack of knowledge but here goes: To >> replace some running rigging like the downhaul, topping lift and traveler >> line, is a double braid like Sta-Set the normal product to use? >> I no longer race my own boat, so it's just what's needed for playing >> around. >> If I measured correctly, the traveler would be quarter inch and the >> downhaul would be 3/8in. >> Ron >> Wild Cheri >> C 30-1 >> STL >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Removing lettering
I've had very good experience with MEK. Test first. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Apr 21, 2021, 15:49 Neil Andersen via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > What solvent should I use to remove the residual adhesive?? > > Neil > 1982 C 32, FoxFire > Rock Hall, MD 21661 > > -- > *From:* Dean McNeill via CnC-List > *Sent:* Wednesday, April 21, 2021 3:22 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Dean McNeill > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Removing lettering > > Adhesive lettering is WAY easier than old painted lettering! > > A heat gun and a sharp scraper are your friends. The heat gun will loosen > the adhesive on the vinyl and then you can get a scraper or razor edged > scraper in underneath to peel it off. > > Dean > C 34 > Halifax, NS > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Pipe fittings for overboard discharge
Thanks Bill, these "tail pieces" would be in a more or less vertical section which would discharge almost directly overboard thus eliminating the chance for water to collect and freeze. Though, freezing is something I had not considered and will keep a keen awareness of. Josh On Mon, Apr 19, 2021, 15:05 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > Only thing I can think of is freezing and cracking, which **probably** > wouldn’t be that big of a mess. Maybe PEX might work, it is a little more > forgiving. > > Having said that, I think most of my bilge pumps exit into fiberglass > tubes exiting the stern. > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > > > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > *Sent:* Monday, April 19, 2021 2:31 PM > *To:* C List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Pipe fittings for overboard discharge > > > > Hey folks, > > > > Without getting too deep into the details, I'm having a bit of difficulty > finding fittings to plumb my new bilge pumpS overboard. I've envisioned a > solution but it requires use of PVC and glued joints. This throws up some > red flags in my mind but I'm not really sure why or if it is actually > frowned upon. These fittings are not below the waterline and are not > connected to anything below the waterline except the bilge pump. The hoses > will have a high point to avoid the very unlikely possibility of a syphon. > TBH it kinda comes down to whether or not an inspector/surveyor would > immediately throw the flag if they saw a PVC fitting. > > > > As a funny side note the PO used grey PVC (conduit) elbow and a white PVC > elbow (both NPT) on some of my through hulls. They have subsequently been > trapped in place by other modifications which prevent unscrewing them so > replacement means serious destruction. The purchase surveyor commented > about them but didn't note it on the survey and subsequent surveyors have > not mentioned them. Those are threaded AND below the waterline so it's a > bit of a different story. > > > > Figured I'd get a feeling from the group so I can at least know why it's > wrong. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Pipe fittings for overboard discharge
Hey folks, Without getting too deep into the details, I'm having a bit of difficulty finding fittings to plumb my new bilge pumpS overboard. I've envisioned a solution but it requires use of PVC and glued joints. This throws up some red flags in my mind but I'm not really sure why or if it is actually frowned upon. These fittings are not below the waterline and are not connected to anything below the waterline except the bilge pump. The hoses will have a high point to avoid the very unlikely possibility of a syphon. TBH it kinda comes down to whether or not an inspector/surveyor would immediately throw the flag if they saw a PVC fitting. As a funny side note the PO used grey PVC (conduit) elbow and a white PVC elbow (both NPT) on some of my through hulls. They have subsequently been trapped in place by other modifications which prevent unscrewing them so replacement means serious destruction. The purchase surveyor commented about them but didn't note it on the survey and subsequent surveyors have not mentioned them. Those are threaded AND below the waterline so it's a bit of a different story. Figured I'd get a feeling from the group so I can at least know why it's wrong. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: help with shift cable issue
It looks like the "cable conduit" is held to a stabilizing beam with hose clamps. Am I seeing that correctly? If the conduit has NOT slid in those hose clamps then you're probably not going to find any luck inside the pedestal. On the other hand if the conduit has slid in the hose clamps you may find that simply resetting the position and re-clamping with the hose clamps is sufficient regardless of what you find (or don't find) inside the pedestal. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, Apr 18, 2021, 09:45 General Gao via CnC-List wrote: > Thx John. My engine is a Universal diesel M30; the pedestal is a Edson, > probably a very old model from the 1970s. > > I am planning to take the top of the pedestal apart today and see if I can > find anything there. > > Thx. > > Bo > > > On Sun, Apr 18, 2021 at 7:56 AM John and Maryann Read via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> HI Bo >> >> >> >> What model pedestal and engine and tranny? If your tranny is a cone >> design, it is critical to get full throw at the tranny shift lever or there >> will be slippage >> >> >> >> The outer sheath is (should be) clamped on both ends so does not move. I >> see a hole in your pedestal tube. Is that for a set screw to hold a >> bracket?? >> >> >> >> At the pedestal, can your shifter hit the pedestal body? If so there may >> be a problem as insufficient throw at the tranny. On mine, there is a >> double spring at the tranny so tranny is fully engaged with a bit of spring >> compression before shifter hits body both fwd and rev. Under deck, verify >> sheath does not move when shifting. If it does your pedestal clamping is >> suspect. >> >> >> >> At the tranny, verify the cable sheath is secure and does not move. >> Verify the inner cable is correctly attached to the tranny lever so the >> lever goes its full travel in fwd and rev. On ours, the lever is simply >> clamped onto a rod that goes into the tranny and can slip. On mine >> (Kanzaki on a Yanmar engine) there are two attachment holes on the lever. >> The cable is attached to the inner one so there is sufficient throw of the >> cable. >> >> >> >> Hope this helps >> >> >> >> John and Maryann >> >> Legacy III >> >> 1982 C 34 >> >> Noank, CT >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> *From:* General Gao via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] >> *Sent:* Saturday, April 17, 2021 1:37 PM >> *To:* Stus-List >> *Cc:* General Gao >> *Subject:* Stus-List help with shift cable issue >> >> >> >> I am continuing with my work on the shift cable issue. To summarize, the >> shift cable suddenly could not shift the gearbox properly. Looking at the >> gearbox side, the cable conduit ends may have moved and caused the issue. >> I've verified the cable at the engine end did not change >> >> >> >> I took a couple of pictures at the control end of things: >> >> >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1nXEiGVBoIcaEGtVxav6felcClgAVns2b/view?usp=sharing >> >> >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1-Lji9SQ1EPGDig2bngtrdwHd4I0moIBa/view?usp=sharing >> >> >> >> I am thinking something got loose at the pedestal side, the conduit end >> bracket might got loose; however I could not find the screw that sets the >> distance of the conduit end from the control lever. >> >> >> >> Am I missing something? >> >> >> >> Regards, >> >> >> >> Bo >> >> >> >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Hello?
Yep just quiet On Sun, Apr 4, 2021, 08:01 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > So, I haven't gotten any emails for a couple days. None in spam or > trash. Is it just quiet? > Bill Walker > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not?
I too have the iSeries tank level monitor from TechEdge. I was even a Beta tester. Generally I like it. The best thing about it is that you don't have to penetrate the tank in any way. The second best thing is that it can be calibrated in 10% capacity increments which allows it to very accurately report tank level for odd shaped tanks and it does so in 1% increments. I have had a problem with one of my tank level indicators and can only trace it back to the sensor. I've tried all the recommendations except replacing. It will work with resistance sendors like those on some liquid propane tanks and I do kinda wish it was capable of interfacing with N2k. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Mar 31, 2021, 12:38 Don Marlin via CnC-List wrote: > The iSeries comes with everything to measure tanks including the senders > and it cost me about $200cdn. > I already have a lot of electronics aboard (Raymarine, NMEA200, Raspberry > Pi, Yatch Devices etc.) but could not bring myself to spend $ on networked > tank monitoring. > This is a low tech solution that works fine for us. > > One reason I liked it was I did not have to cut into any of the tanks. > This is a capacitive sensor that sticks on the outside. > Some folks don't like that but it has worked perfectly even on the holding > tank. > > Anyhow, there are many options but all the others I looked at were more > intrusive and more expensive. > > As always YMMV :-) > > > On Wed, Mar 31, 2021 at 12:30 PM Martin DeYoung via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Calypso has had the Tank Tender system in place for over 20 years. I >> monitor the diesel tank and 2 water tanks. Once I learned/charted the >> correlation between pressure readings and quantity of fluid in each tank it >> has been very reliable as an indicator. >> >> I installed a different type of system in the holding tank that gives >> “green/yellow/red” light indication of holding tank levels. That system >> requires occasional cleaning of the float switches to remain accurate. >> >> Martin DeYoung >> Calypso >> 1971 C 43 >> Seattle/Port Ludlow >> >> On Mar 31, 2021, at 8:38 AM, Peter McMinn via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >> >> Thanks for the ideas. I used my dinghy foot pump to blow out the vent on >> the port tank, which resulted in increased flow from that tank. I think I >> need to replace the senders in both tanks to get accurate readings on tank >> levels. Neighbor on the dock suggests a Tank Tender. Any suggestions? >> >> Peter McMinn >> >> _/) >> >> >> >> On Wed, Mar 24, 2021 at 6:32 AM Bill Coleman via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> This sounds likely – My usual fix for fixing the prime in the water pump >>> in the spring was to bring a hose on board and blast water into the tank >>> drain, up to the faucet – this would also blast over to the other tank, and >>> likely blow out whatever crud was in the line. Then vacuum out that tank >>> and clean. >>> >>> >>> >>> Bill Coleman >>> >>> Entrada, Erie, PA >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Something is preventing the free flow of water from one of the tanks. >>> It could be; >>> >>> - a clog in the hose from the tank to the tee, >>> >>> - maybe a valve, somewhere in that line that is closed, >>> >>> - it could be the vent is plugged solid, creating a vacuum. Which does >>> not allow the water to flow. >>> >>> >>> >>> Given that there is very little head pressure to overcome the vacuum, it >>> wouldn't necessarily take too much of a plug on either side to stop the >>> water flow. >>> >>> >>> >>> Danny >>> >>> -- Original Message -- >>> From: Rick Brass via CnC-List >>> To: "'Stus-List'" >>> Cc: Rick Brass >>> Subject: Stus-List Re: water tanks interconnected, or not? >>> Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2021 23:37:40 -0400 >>> >>> My 38 also has a tank under the port and starboard settees. Each of the >>> tanks has a shutoff valve at the outlet. The two drain hoses meet at a T >>> under the floorboards, and from this T is the line to the pressure pump. >>> >>> >>> >>> Curiously, there is also a shutoff valve on each side of the T. I could >>> see no good purpose
Stus-List Re: handrail
Use a wood screw drilled into the wood plug. As the screw bottoms out it will pull the plug. Just replace with a new one. Glue in place with wood glue. Use a sharp knife/chisel to shape and then sand flush. Stain/seal/oil for finish. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, Mar 28, 2021, 15:30 General Gao via CnC-List wrote: > Hi, my C 35 Mk2 handrail seems to have a leak to the inside. I found out > this last year when there was rain and I found water inside the cabin where > the handrail was. > > This year I want to take care of it before the season starts. I took a > closer look at it from inside, there seems to be a wood stud, do I just > use a knife to pop it off to access the screws? > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/155AB7tJdv5J1JWm-tAk4_hQpyv7MedlL/view?usp=sharing > > Thank you in advance. > > Bo > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Leaving interior Teak natural?
I have lots of info for you to consider. However, I am by no means a professional. I found that without exception "lemon oils" are mineral oil with added color and scent. Double check me. I use the SDS to see and compare the "ingredients" in lots of products. Pure mineral oil is what is recommended for wooden cutting boards though some people recommend thickening it with beeswax to make a cream or paste that will last through washing a little better. In their 100% pure form, both mineral oil and beeswax are "food safe". Neither mineral oil or bees wax will ever "dry". They do not naturally give off VOCs and will only ever simply be absorbed, or washed away. Warmer temps encourage more and faster absorption. Some people have reported mildew as a result of using "lemon oil". I have not experienced this at all and would suggest that the primary cause of the mildew is high moisture. You will most likely find that most "teak oils" are basically a mineral oil though some may have additional UV stabilizers and blockers. Teak oils are also often colored brown instead of yellow but this is aesthetic more than anything. Linseed oil is a common wood finishing product and comes in 2 variations. Boiled and raw. Similar to mineral oil, raw linseed has no (or low) VOCs and will never dry thought I believe it is slightly thinner than mineral oil and will get better absorption. As I understand it raw linseed and flaxseed oil are basically the same thing though unlike pure mineral oil and supermarket flaxseed oil, linseed oil should not be consumed. Probably not an issue, but it is worth keeping in mind should you be looking for a product to condition your cutting boards. I use raw linseed thickened with bees wax as a natural preservative on my bee hives. It definitely seems to make a difference over unprotected wood. I seem to recall that boiled linseed oil is not linseed oil at all but rather a chemical concoction that actually has VOCs and ultimately dries. As a single application it will go on similar to raw linseed or mineral oil. It will quickly absorb like raw linseed but has the advantage of ultimately giving off those VOCs and drying. A second application can result in a slight shiny or satin finish as the second layer is now building up on the dry layer below instead of soaking in. A third application can give a semi-gloss finish. Now on to Danish oil. Danish oil is akin to a very very thin colored polyurethane . It can be applied with a rag in the same manner as the above mentioned products. It comes in a variety of colors. It will dry. I like to use Danish oil on fresh, raw, neglected, or weathered decorative interior wood as a base coat. I find that applying it with a foam brush leaves enough to soak in. It is thin enough that it will soak in quite well. While it is wet you can keep applying more to get better and better penetration. Per the directions you would come back a few hours after application to wipe away any extra and then allow to dry thoroughly (24 hours-ish). When wiped away it leaves a natural finish that will be resistant to being washed away. Since it comes in various colors you can also add back some youthfulness to greyed out wood as well as more closely match existing wood. This product is also a good fit for traction surfaces and high moisture surfaces such as the stairs and the shower bench. Once the base is established, maintaining it with an oil product from above is much less involved and lasts longer. Just keep in mind that if the oil product does not dry then it will impact slip resistance. Hope this adds some options for you. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C+ Solomons, MD On Sat, Mar 27, 2021, 19:19 Dean McNeill via CnC-List wrote: > Spring chores on the new-to-me C 34… every piece of the beautiful teak > interior is coated in Cetol. It makes it look so DARK! I’m successfully > removing the Cetol with a heat gun and scraper. After a light sand, I’m > wondering if I varnish it or leave it uncoated (natural). I’m not a fan of > oiling as it seems to attract dirt and grime. Obviously I’ll be treating > any exterior woodwork… but what about the interior, varnish or natural? Or > something else?Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the > list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to > the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- > https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Attaching spring line to toe rail
Do some research on the load handling ability of spring hooks and carabiners. As I recall they are nowhere near as strong as the line to which they are tied. This has been my hesitation in using them. Josh On Fri, Mar 19, 2021, 21:01 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Last week's discussion on midships cleats got me to innovating (again). > Here's my latest idea. > > I took an old spring hook and slid 1/4 ID black surgical tubing over it. > It clips easily onto the soft shackle which stays permanently affixed to > the toe rail. It's easier than putting the soft shackle through the eye of > the spring line every time. The tubing keeps the spring hook from damaging > the topsides paint since it now hangs below the rub rail. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1AL3VUgx_Xk2PStPI65nMAITnPXBOey8m/view?usp=sharing > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1fnnEaS9gIv-3f_y7qCSszqHrLlrzKjei/view?usp=sharing > > The tubing slid on fairly easily after I lubricated it and the spring hook > with dishwashing detergent. > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Barrier Coat.
TBH I'm not sure. Unfortunately he wasn't even sure... At least 5. They get it mixed in the pot and just keep going. Cooler temps make it go on thicker and hotter temps force them to work faster. The bottom of the wing keel really threw the count off too. Josh On Fri, Mar 19, 2021, 08:53 John McCrea wrote: > Josh, > > > > Impressive. How many coats did he apply? > > > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* Thursday, March 18, 2021 7:12 PM > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Barrier Coat. > > > > I had my bottom stripped this past summer. The guy used what can only be > described as a hand held planer to strip the gel-coat and layers of > fiberglass. He relaid 2 layers of fiberglass and then barrier coated it > with a MIL-spec product. MIL-DTL-24441 Ultra High Solids (UHS) by Sherwin > Williams > > > > > https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/na/us/en/protective-marine/catalog/product/mil-dtl-24441-type-iv.9528308.html > > > > I found a little bit of research from the US Navy about it. > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nvoi-ISVw-EBBAdXvqyUkA1ABqBhvKOe/view?usp=drivesdk > > > > The guy that did the job claims he's one of the only people who still do > this type of work in the Chesapeake Bay area. He raves about the quality > of the MIL-spec stuff. Said it is a 2 part epoxy (the same as interprotect > 2000 but way harder and better). 路♂️ > > > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1HO_WioKQN365bHuBj0Cp-8bNTvU3KVza > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > On Wed, Mar 17, 2021, 09:28 John McCrea via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > All, > > > > Has anyone applied a barrier coat lately and can provide some advice on > the number of coats to achieve the required thickness? I will be applying > with a roller and trying to estimate the number of gallons to pick up at > the Defender sale. Talisman will be getting sandblasted next week and want > to fair and then barrier coat. Thanks! > > > > John McCrea > > Talisman > > 1979 36-1 > > Mystic, CT > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement [now mast rebuild]
Agreed. I searched. I would have liked a bluenose. Considered the dime but I felt it was more important (just for the sake of it) to have a larger, higher value Canadian coin, minted in 1989. I even half-heartedly looked for gold and platinum options to get the bluenose. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 21:06 Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > A Bluenose silver dollar would probably be more appropriate, but I don’t > think there is one from 1989. But a Canadian dime for sure is (e.g., > https://www.coinsunlimited.ca/circulation-coins/all-canadian-circulation-coins-lots-rolls/1989-Canadian-10-Cent-Bluenose-Brilliant-Uncirculated > ). > > > > Marek > > Ottawa, ON > > > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List > *Sent:* March 18, 2021 18:49 > *To:* Stus-List > *Cc:* Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo > replacement [now mast rebuild] > > > > Canadian Silver coin with a nautical theme and minted the same year as my > boat was built. > > > > > https://www.ebay.com/itm/Royal-Canadian-Mint-1-Silver-Dollar-MacKenzie-River-Exploration-/333860863439?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2FRoyal-Canadian-Mint-1-Silver-Dollar-MacKenzie-River-Exploration-%2F333860863439%3F_trksid%3Dp2349624.m46890.l49292=04%7C01%7C%7C42e73c098a354db82b9908d8ea601943%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637517045750264526%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=FazTtXZYQ37hKaV5gRx3I4y%2FgKZAbnZ%2FbypefQ%2FVazM%3D=0> > > > > No not particularly superstitious but I figured for the relatively low > cost and low effort this little bit of superstition was worth it. > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > > > > > > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 16:39 Bill Coleman via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Wow, is that a Silver Dollar on your mast step, or just a Looney? You > must be superstitious. > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > > > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:46 AM > *Cc:* Stus-List; Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo > replacement [now mast rebuild] > > > > The yard used awlgrip 2000, pearl gray if I recall correctly. Stripped > all hardware and wiring, welded shut vestigial holes, ground them flat and > then primed and painted. Re-wired, refitted, replaced all rod rigging. > > > > Here is the link to the whole project. > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffolderview%3Fid%3D1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm=04%7C01%7C%7C42e73c098a354db82b9908d8ea601943%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637517045750264526%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=NDktts%2F8biFhQEV%2BW1W3sb8eloyphFVguDc8ZagV%2Fvc%3D=0> > > > > I pretty sure the next question is going to be "how much?" > > > > ~1k for each rod and hardware. I have 4 shrouds on each side plus head > and back. 10 total > > > > ~3k for the paint job alone > > > > All said and done it came to roughly 20k > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 10:19 David Swensen > wrote: > > Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint > them? They look great. > > > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam. Perfect replacement fit. > No problem. Highly recommend. I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the > spreaders. Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright! > > > > https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/ > <https://na01.safelinks.protection.outlook.com/?url=https%3A%2F%2Fstore.marinebeam.com%2Fled-masthead-foredeck-combination-light%2F=04%7C01%7C%7C42e73c098a354db82b9908d8ea601943%7C84df9e7fe9f640afb435%7C1%7C0%7C637517045750274485%7CUnknown%7CTWFpbGZsb3d8eyJWIjoiMC4wLjAwMDAiLCJQIjoiV2luMzIiLCJBTiI6Ik1haWwiLCJXVCI6Mn0%3D%7C1000=T6W54UY7gaotxsAAUaczlBNnR4w1Hf15H%2Fu%2BLzjydxY%3D=0> > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQ
Stus-List Re: Barrier Coat.
I had my bottom stripped this past summer. The guy used what can only be described as a hand held planer to strip the gel-coat and layers of fiberglass. He relaid 2 layers of fiberglass and then barrier coated it with a MIL-spec product. MIL-DTL-24441 Ultra High Solids (UHS) by Sherwin Williams https://industrial.sherwin-williams.com/na/us/en/protective-marine/catalog/product/mil-dtl-24441-type-iv.9528308.html I found a little bit of research from the US Navy about it. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Nvoi-ISVw-EBBAdXvqyUkA1ABqBhvKOe/view?usp=drivesdk The guy that did the job claims he's one of the only people who still do this type of work in the Chesapeake Bay area. He raves about the quality of the MIL-spec stuff. Said it is a 2 part epoxy (the same as interprotect 2000 but way harder and better). 路♂️ https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1HO_WioKQN365bHuBj0Cp-8bNTvU3KVza Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Mar 17, 2021, 09:28 John McCrea via CnC-List wrote: > All, > > > > Has anyone applied a barrier coat lately and can provide some advice on > the number of coats to achieve the required thickness? I will be applying > with a roller and trying to estimate the number of gallons to pick up at > the Defender sale. Talisman will be getting sandblasted next week and want > to fair and then barrier coat. Thanks! > > > > John McCrea > > Talisman > > 1979 36-1 > > Mystic, CT > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement [now mast rebuild]
Canadian Silver coin with a nautical theme and minted the same year as my boat was built. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Royal-Canadian-Mint-1-Silver-Dollar-MacKenzie-River-Exploration-/333860863439?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 No not particularly superstitious but I figured for the relatively low cost and low effort this little bit of superstition was worth it. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 16:39 Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote: > Wow, is that a Silver Dollar on your mast step, or just a Looney? You > must be superstitious. > > > > > > Bill Coleman > > Entrada, Erie, PA > > > > > > > > *From:* Josh Muckley via CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com] > *Sent:* Thursday, March 18, 2021 10:46 AM > *Cc:* Stus-List; Josh Muckley > *Subject:* Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo > replacement [now mast rebuild] > > > > The yard used awlgrip 2000, pearl gray if I recall correctly. Stripped > all hardware and wiring, welded shut vestigial holes, ground them flat and > then primed and painted. Re-wired, refitted, replaced all rod rigging. > > > > Here is the link to the whole project. > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm > > > > I pretty sure the next question is going to be "how much?" > > > > ~1k for each rod and hardware. I have 4 shrouds on each side plus head > and back. 10 total > > > > ~3k for the paint job alone > > > > All said and done it came to roughly 20k > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 10:19 David Swensen > wrote: > > Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint > them? They look great. > > > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam. Perfect replacement fit. > No problem. Highly recommend. I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the > spreaders. Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright! > > > > https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/ > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk > > > > > https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk > > > > > > All the best, > > > > Josh Muckley > > S/V Sea Hawk > > 1989 C 37+ > > Solomons, MD > > > > > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Hello all, > > > > I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light. The existing Aqua > Signal light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some > point and the deck light didn't work. So, Staying away from Aqua Signal. > > > > I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all the > way up to well over $500. I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at > about $125 and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450. > > > > I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal > Mate. It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be > well made. Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well > made. There are plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal. > > > > I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise. > > > > Thanks, > > Danny > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 12 volt tv
This may not exactly be the direction you want to go but I find old laptops with USB DTV dongles and DVD players to be great options. Pick one with an available cigarette lighter charge adapter so that you can charge with 12v. I like the Dell latitude series. I have an e6540 that I use as a daily. It is quite functional as a desktop computer for all needs while underway. It has Bluetooth so connecting to the Bluetooth stereo is great for filling the boat with sound OR connecting to wireless headphones to enjoy privately while someone is sleeping. I suppose that if you need anything larger than a 15 inch screen this won't help. With the DTV adapters you should consider an alternative antenna and USB extension cable. I would mount the USB adapter in a fixed location and then connect with the USB extension when desired. This would allow a semi permanent connection to the antenna and a semi permanent antenna mount. The antenna connects with a common SMA or SMB connector and can be easily changed to a common digital antenna F coax cable. SMA to F coax https://www.ebay.com/itm/SMB-MCX-MMCX-FME-Male-to-SMA-Female-Plug-Coaxial-Antenna-Connector-Adapter-/153773757987?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 USB DTV adapter https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB2-0-FM-DAB-DVB-T-RTL2832U-R820T2-RTL-SDR-SDR-Dongle-Stick-Digital-TV-Tuner-/284162576356?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Laptop https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-Latitude-E6540-Laptop-2-8GHz-Core-i7-4810MQ-16GB-RAM-No-HDD-No-Battery-/294069605811?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Cigarette adapter https://www.ebay.com/itm/90W-Premium-Laptop-Car-Charger-for-Dell-DC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Cord-19-5V-4-62A-/153437407849?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 15:33 WILLIAM WALKER via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Looking at installing 12 volt tv with built in dvd player and digital > antenna to entertain spouse with movies in the evening. > Anybody tackled this? Issues I haven't thought about? > Bill Walker > CnC 36 > Pentwater, Mi. > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement [now mast rebuild]
The yard used awlgrip 2000, pearl gray if I recall correctly. Stripped all hardware and wiring, welded shut vestigial holes, ground them flat and then primed and painted. Re-wired, refitted, replaced all rod rigging. Here is the link to the whole project. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=1eSqX7wZP1r77hD84wDmGAQSI0Tqbn9xm I pretty sure the next question is going to be "how much?" ~1k for each rod and hardware. I have 4 shrouds on each side plus head and back. 10 total ~3k for the paint job alone All said and done it came to roughly 20k Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 10:19 David Swensen wrote: > Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint > them? They look great. > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam. Perfect replacement >> fit. No problem. Highly recommend. I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the >> spreaders. Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright! >> >> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/ >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk >> >> >> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk >> >> >> All the best, >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Hello all, >>> >>> I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light. The existing Aqua >>> Signal light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some >>> point and the deck light didn't work. So, Staying away from Aqua Signal. >>> >>> I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all >>> the way up to well over $500. I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at >>> about $125 and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450. >>> >>> I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal >>> Mate. It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be >>> well made. Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well >>> made. There are plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal. >>> >>> I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise. >>> >>> Thanks, >>> Danny >>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks - Stu >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement
The wires fit easily enough but really it is such a short run I'm not sure it was beneficial. I wired them to the same terminal as the deck light in the deck/masthead combo. I figure if I'm turning on one then I probably want them all. 路♂️ Maybe not. But if I want to change it the terminal board is easily accessed in the overhead where the mast passes through the deck. Josh On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 10:29 Kevin Driscoll wrote: > Was it difficult to fish the wires to the spreaders and did you hook up a > new switch at the helm station for the spreader lights? > > > > On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 7:20 AM David Swensen via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Josh, Lets talk about your mast and spreaders. What did you use to paint >> them? They look great. >> >> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021 at 9:54 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam. Perfect replacement >>> fit. No problem. Highly recommend. I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the >>> spreaders. Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright! >>> >>> https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/ >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk >>> >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk >>> >>> >>> All the best, >>> >>> Josh Muckley >>> S/V Sea Hawk >>> 1989 C 37+ >>> Solomons, MD >>> >>> >>> On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List < >>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >>> >>>> Hello all, >>>> >>>> I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light. The existing Aqua >>>> Signal light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some >>>> point and the deck light didn't work. So, Staying away from Aqua Signal. >>>> >>>> I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all >>>> the way up to well over $500. I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at >>>> about $125 and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450. >>>> >>>> I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal >>>> Mate. It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be >>>> well made. Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well >>>> made. There are plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal. >>>> >>>> I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise. >>>> >>>> Thanks, >>>> Danny >>>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >>>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >>>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>>> Thanks - Stu >>> >>> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >>> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks - Stu >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Recommended Masthead/Deck Light combo replacement
I replaced my Aqua Signal with the marine beam. Perfect replacement fit. No problem. Highly recommend. I also did Aqua Signal LEDs on the spreaders. Very low profile and they work phenomenally - almost too bright! https://store.marinebeam.com/led-masthead-foredeck-combination-light/ https://drive.google.com/file/d/1CdFzOH89I3fwlZeumTcWlLxQGST9Mn_S/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gIzwa9aDe-08QwoXbRkiSKvJpeaHpOkU/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1ZQiyoFpaXQ5qMJ82CfCZY1GUoUKmx-MM/view?usp=drivesdk https://drive.google.com/file/d/1C9XMVAymHLr3240v5wFePlXiVGKJG6VS/view?usp=drivesdk All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Mar 18, 2021, 08:55 Danny Haughey via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hello all, > > I need to replace my masthead (steaming)/Deck Light. The existing Aqua > Signal light doesn't impress me as the deck light lens fell off at some > point and the deck light didn't work. So, Staying away from Aqua Signal. > > I've been looking and these light range in price from around $100 all the > way up to well over $500. I've seem Marine Beam, with good reviews, at > about $125 and the Signal Mate, with good reviews at about $450. > > I don't want to spend unnecessarily but, I'm leaning toward the Signal > Mate. It was good reputation, been around a while and is supposed to be > well made. Of course the reviews on the Marine beam say they are well > made. There are plenty of bad reviews about the aqua signal. > > I was hoping some of you could offer some experiences and advise. > > Thanks, > Danny > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: forestay tension
Absolutely Bruce! That's great anecdotal evidence of how little of an adjustment impacts the helm. You're also right that the weather helm VS Lee helm is ultimately what you are trying to adjust. Remember that slight weather helm is desirable as Lee helm can actually be dangerous since the boat won't round up into the wind. So more rake = more weather helm. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Mar 16, 2021, 08:02 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > By tightening or loosening the forestry, you affect weather or lee helm. > We had a little too much weather helm for my liking, so I tightened the > forestay, probably reducing the forestay length by about 1/2". It doesn't > sound like much, but it got my weather helm just where I like it (a little, > but no more than about 1/8 turn of the wheel under most sailing > conditions). Others may be right that the adjustment should have occurred > at the mast partners, but I didn't think about it at the time. My point is > that as others have said, forestay tension should be adjusted y tightening > the backstay, but don't forget that it will affect weather helm as well. > > > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C 37/40+ > "Astralis" > Madeira Beach, FL > (847) 404-5092 > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: windlass battery under vee-berth
Peter, What is the chemistry of your existing batteries? Different chemistries and designs require different charging profiles. How do you plan to keep it charged? The means of charging has to be matched to the chemistry. Be careful in your selection of a battery since marine and AGM batteries in conventional automotive BCI group sizes are rarely true deep cycle batteries. Though, I suppose it could be argued that an anchor windlass could be more like a starting motor than a deep cycle load. You may find that a lithium battery fits this bill nicely. The ones used in commercial IT UPS solar arrays are available used and have their own charging control circuits. They don't require venting and can be oriented in any fashion. They are surprisingly light, have incredible discharge current, and can be charged comparatively much faster than almost any other tech. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Valence-U1-12RT-12v-Lithium-battery-packs-No-connector-Cords-Varied-Ah-/393130832481?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292 If you decide to use lead acid or AGM then consider looking for ones with vent ports built right into the top of the case. These ports are designed to have a tube attached so as to vent the gasses to a fresh air location. Also remember that if your AGM is producing gas then it is also irreparably having its service life shortened since there is no way to replace the lost water. All of that being said, many people simply choose to use long over sized cables leading from the main house battery - I would. When doing an install like this, you would typically run the engine to help make up for the power usage. Well, running the engine during anchoring maneuvers is pretty typical anyway so that shouldn't really be an issue. Additionally, use a very high current relay located close to the battery to do the switching of the power for windlass ops. This keeps the risks associated with "always on" high amp conductors to a minimum since the positive wire would no longer be "always on". Using a solenoid/relay also saves the contacts in your windlass switches. Ugh! It could be ugly if a switch contact got welded shut in the raise position! Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Mar 15, 2021, 19:14 Peter McMinn via CnC-List wrote: > Hey all, > > As I prepare to mount a new windlass on my ‘85 37, I intend to install a > new AGM 12v on the centerline just aft of the holding tank. There is plenty > of room here for a battery platform and accessibility is fair. I’ve done my > homework on voltage drop, cable size, etc. but if you have specific > experience on a 37 with a fwd-mounted battery, I’m mostly ears. > > My question relates to ventilation. The under-berth space is fairly large, > but I know AGMs need to gas and I don’t want to create a hazard. Any > suggestions for adding an adequate vent to this area? > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: forestay tension
Bob, In your situation I would say that you will probably not regret keeping the turnbuckle as loose as possible. Of course if you have to tighten it, it is not impossible. You should make sure that both halves of the turnbuckle are equally and fully engaged. Y fully engaged I mean that the end of each shank should be at least flush with the inner opening of the turnbuckle. Many turnbuckles require a pin or ring to prevent loosening but since this is in the furler there may be a different mechanism. Make sure that the engagement is sufficient for whatever security measures is used. When tightening, lubricate the threads first and be especially careful not to let the stay twist. IIRC lonseal is recommended by Navtec but gray anti-seize or tef-gel are perfectly good alternatives. Before calling it set make sure that the wedges in the collar still fit and that the mast is not riding on the collar/partners. Double check that the side stays, back stay and baby stay all have sufficient adjustment remaining and re-adjust (tighten) the headstay as needed. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Mar 15, 2021, 17:38 Bob Mann via CnC-List wrote: > So with no sails on, the forestay should be slack? How much? > > Backstay will tighten the forestay and this should be adjusted during > sailing, but how slack is it? I have a turnbuckle on my forestay, inside > the furler. I've tightened it in the past but I don't know what I'm doing. > > Bob > > On 03/15/2021 5:09 PM David Knecht via CnC-List > wrote: > > > Hi Bob- Forestay tension is set primarily by backstay tension, so there is > no “tension setting”. AFAIK Dave > > > On Mar 15, 2021, at 3:07 PM, Bob Mann via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> > wrote: > When stepping the mast, how tight should the forestay be? > > Bob Mann > Mystic > 71' 35 mk I > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > > David Knecht > S/V Aries > 1990 C 34+ > New London, CT > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - > Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Forestay tension
Rake can (and arguably should) be adjusted by moving the foot of the mast. This basically helps keep the mast centered in the deck at the partners. Unfortunately the mast shoe often makes doing this nearly impossible. Of course changing the forestay length can also be a challenge. Remember that changing rake will cause changes to other dynamics such as the halyard lead to the furler which may result in halyard wraps. Fortunately most of our boats do not have swept spreaders or if they are it is only very slight. Adding rake would shorten them. Unless you recut the mailsail the boom will tip lower for the same leach tension. Besides headroom, this can impact dodger clearance. Just things to consider. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Mar 15, 2021, 18:58 Len Mitchell via CnC-List wrote: > Agree the backstay tensions the forestay but you want to set your mast > rake using forestay length and appropriate blocking at the mast base of > course. Rake should be specified in your manual. > > Len Mitchell > > S/V Crazy Legs > > 1989 C 37+ > > Midland On. > > > Sent from my iPad > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: midship cleats on aluminum rail?
Soft shackle. https://youtu.be/DSAMR27tnFI Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Mar 10, 2021, 07:54 Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I really like the idea of a soft shackle. Easy and cheap to install, and > if you still really want something more permanent, you can always add it. > > Bruce Whitmore > 1994 C 37/40+ > "Astralis" > Madeira Beach, FL > (847) 404-5092 > > On Wed, Mar 10, 2021, 2:27 AM Peter McMinn via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> A question for those of us with aluminum toe rails. I’d like to find a >> solution for midship cleating for docking/departing and springline >> placement. I’m currently securing a line around a stanchion mount, which >> seems strong, but I’d like to find a cleat that mounts to the toe rail. >> Haven’t seen anything in the catalogs. I’m thinking a carabiner or even a >> soft shackle through a rail hole might be a good fix. Given the general >> opinion that midship cleating is handy, I’m curious what you use. >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: G-Flex or Total Boat Fairing Compound?
Depends. If the existing fairing compound broke loose because of flex at the joint then more of the same will probably happen in the future. If on the other hand it just had a poor attachment in the first place and there is no flex then you'll probably be fine. If you already have the fairing compound and don't mind doing the job over in the future if it should fail then it certainly won't hurt. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Mar 9, 2021, 10:55 David Risch via CnC-List wrote: > Keel stub joint fill for a fairly large fairing chunk that fell off. I > have plenty of the Total Boat fairing compound and before I go spend $100 > on G-Flex…do I need it or is fairing compound OK? I am thinking yes… > > > > Thanks in advance. > > > > David F. Risch > > Managing Director > > Great Benefits USA > > 401-419-4650 - Direct Line > > www.greatbenefitsusa.com > <http://secure-web.cisco.com/1MKVfvkygVP51lGc2yziNIFDb1f7QyqlMMC0Ws5XFwrh5Z29yk8V9-H-BpWPdc4H-KLGYNJ8xByn00jzsd-2Ha4CJqta-Oi4SR3zv-ilvvFQgk2r1dTGx91oAnCtrCtWX3971epXdF8ZQx6oCN2aVAz4G2C1e3AFPPZNeJDlLweF62zGZQ07PHpl8HRpYdWC2krf8nk8VytnngLfzo-HMlRvyliYY5btbWmG2ov1MoH8MQ_Pu-H9km1SSOFq4VsiFRn62vshzHwa2jYYWiHfn79noxm3wQLeI3kjNdWmHg705FbzWALYFp_QCz0Eu9z0S/http%3A%2F%2Fwww.greatbenefitsusa.com%2F> > > > > *The content of this email is confidential and intended for the recipient > specified in message only. It is strictly forbidden to share any part of > this message with any third party, without a written consent of the sender. > If you received this message by mistake, please reply to this message and > follow with its deletion, so that we can ensure such a mistake does not > occur in the future.* > > *Great Benefits USA puts the security of the client at a high priority. > Therefore, we have put efforts into ensuring that the message is error and > virus-free. Unfortunately, full security of the email cannot be ensured as, > despite our efforts, the data included in emails could be infected, > intercepted, or corrupted. Therefore, the recipient should check the email > for threats with proper software, as the sender does not accept liability > for any damage inflicted by viewing the content of this email.* > > > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Bilge monitor
Sitting in the slip... My wifi is connected often enough. I see it as being similar to many of the smart devices in our homes. I can control my grill and my Christmas lights anywhere in the world and I currently monitor my freezer temp remotely. If I lose wifi momentarily or for hours on end it doesn't matter. Once a wifi signal is running again everything picks right up where it left off. Sure I'm SOL during the outage but sitting in the slip or on the hard my wifi is sufficient. If it isn't a wifi Hotspot or cell phone plan isn't very prohibitive. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Mar 2, 2021, 15:58 Robert Boyer via CnC-List wrote: > All this depends on a reliable WIFI connection, right? Do you think your > bilge pump switch, for example, is more or less reliable than your onboard > WIFI connection? > > Bob > > Bob Boyer > s/v Rainy Days > C Landfall 38 (Hull # 230) > (Spending winters in warm places, and summers on the Chesapeake Bay) > blog: dainyrays.blogspot.com > email: dainyr...@icloud.com > > On Mar 2, 2021, at 1:43 PM, Riley Anderson via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > > Len, I'm installing a Victron Cerbo GX. It can do everything you're asking > and will transmit data remotely to the Victron VRM app/website. It needs an > internet connection. Either wifi or hardwired. Victron also sells a GSM > device with a SIM card (~$12/month) if you don't want to rely on marina > wifi. > > Here is the Victron Cerbo GX: https://amzn.to/2OfIPxc and technical data > <https://www.victronenergy.com/panel-systems-remote-monitoring/cerbo-gx>. > It can do a lot. Just depends on how fancy you want to get. You can email > me if you have more questions. > > You can also build your own with a raspberry pi and the open-source Venus > OS from Victron. It's the same software they use on the Cerbo but you'll > have to be pretty software savvy to make it do everything you want. Here is > a link to the Venus OS GitHub page: > https://github.com/victronenergy/venus/wiki > > Hope this helps, > Cheers > Riley > > On Tue, Mar 2, 2021 at 11:31 AM Len Mitchell via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> With all this talk about bilge pumps I am looking at a way to monitor the >> boat when I am not there. Has anyone bought or built a monitor? It looks >> possible with a Raspberry Pi computer. I would like to monitor battery bank >> voltage, bilge pump cycles or bilge water level and refrigerator >> temperature. You could go farther and monitor tank levels or install a cctv >> camera too. I am interested in any experience on this. I am not opposed to >> using an old laptop, iPad or tablet if that is more robust. >> >> >> https://medium.com/initial-state/how-to-monitor-your-boat-during-the-winter-months-d89f7d76a88d >> >> >> Len Mitchell >> >> S/V Crazy Legs >> >> 1989 C 37+ >> >> Midland On. >> >> >> Sent from my iPad >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > > > -- > Fair winds and following seas, > > Charlotte Freeland & Riley Anderson > SV Freight Train > Middletown, CT USA > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Broken engine mount bolt
Neil, It was awkward to see and corroded over. As best I can recall, it appeared the same way as any bolt I've ever broken by applying too much torque. It was definitely not a flat break across the face. The resulting diagonal face added significant difficulty in getting drill started. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Wed, Feb 24, 2021, 21:51 Neil Gallagher via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Josh, > > Did you happen to get a look at the broken bolt looking across the face of > the break? Good possibility it was a fatigue failure which occurs at > stresses well below the breaking strength, in which case you can sometimes > see the "beach marks" as the failure works its way across the section. > > Neil Gallagher > Weatherly 35-1 > Glen Cove, NY > > > On 2/24/2021 8:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: > > Dennis, > > Your number of 7500 lbs confirms my number of 7200 lbs. That just seems > incredibly high considering the OEM decided that 2 bolts would be > required. It also seems ridiculous that one of them broke. I am at a > complete loss as to how that would have happened. > > Josh > > > > > On Tue, Feb 23, 2021, 12:00 Dennis C. via CnC-List > wrote: > >> I'm guessing the thread degradation doesn't have much effect on the >> strength as long as the shaft is not damaged. Having said that, the shear >> strength of a M12 10.9 hardness bolt is about 7500 lbs. >> >> Did I win? What's my prize? Can it be shipped or do I need to pick it >> up/sail it home? >> >> Dennis C. >> Touche' 35-1 #83 >> Mandeville, LA >> >> On Tue, Feb 23, 2021 at 9:42 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> Engineering discussion for the group. >>> >>> Here's the background. For about 9 years I have known about having 1 of >>> the 2 bolts broken on the forward starboard engine mount. These bolts hold >>> a piece of 1/2 inch plate steel which was bent at a 90° angle to the >>> vertical side of the engine. This creates a horizontal shelf. The shelf >>> then rests directly on the vibration dampening mount which is then bolted >>> to the boat. Periodically, I have made attempts to extract the bolt but >>> only a few days ago was I finally successful. The bolt was a M12x1.75. I >>> don't know what hardness the OEM called for. Years ago when I discovered >>> the broken bolt I was quick to replace the remaining good one with one >>> having a hardness of 10.9. For a fresh start, I now intend to replace both >>> of them with new and again a hardness of 10.9. In removing the old bolt, >>> my drill hole was off center and ended up cutting some of the threads. I >>> approximate not more than 1/4 of the thread integrity was compromised. >>> >>> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15GCOH3qKIWXl1lmjsbZqsf-ECGCrl1fN >>> >>> Here comes the question(s). Just for kicks, I decide to attempt to >>> figure out what the sheer strength of the engine mounting bolts are >>> individually. I came up with an answer but would like hear what the group >>> comes up with. >>> >>> I also now have a bunch of other questions tumbling around like: How >>> much weight would it take to break one? How much margin to failure did I >>> have while operating for the last 9 years? What could have possibly caused >>> this bolt to break prior to my ownership? Theories and ponderings are >>> welcome. >>> >>> With 1/4 of the threads degraded on the newly available bolt hole, I >>> plan to only torque the bolt to ~50% of max (90 ft-lbs) which would be ~45 >>> ft-lbs. I'll also make sure that the lock washer is fully collapsed but >>> I'm confident that that will happen well before final torque is reached. >>> In sheer, I believe this bolt is providing as much or more strength simply >>> by being there than anything to do with its torque. All though, I have >>> heard the engineering theory that (when built appropriately) the bolts >>> apply the pressure which creates the friction to prevent the pieces from >>> moving in sheer. Under this argument the 2 pieces of metal don't actually >>> ride on the bolt shank specifically, and the surface area where the 2 >>> pieces touch is of particular importance. Looking at the engine castings, >>> it would appear that maximizing surface area contact was not considered. >>> As such, I can only fall back on my previous thought that the bolt shank is >>> in fact carrying the
Stus-List Re: Broken engine mount bolt
Dennis, Your number of 7500 lbs confirms my number of 7200 lbs. That just seems incredibly high considering the OEM decided that 2 bolts would be required. It also seems ridiculous that one of them broke. I am at a complete loss as to how that would have happened. Josh On Tue, Feb 23, 2021, 12:00 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > I'm guessing the thread degradation doesn't have much effect on the > strength as long as the shaft is not damaged. Having said that, the shear > strength of a M12 10.9 hardness bolt is about 7500 lbs. > > Did I win? What's my prize? Can it be shipped or do I need to pick it > up/sail it home? > > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > > On Tue, Feb 23, 2021 at 9:42 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> Engineering discussion for the group. >> >> Here's the background. For about 9 years I have known about having 1 of >> the 2 bolts broken on the forward starboard engine mount. These bolts hold >> a piece of 1/2 inch plate steel which was bent at a 90° angle to the >> vertical side of the engine. This creates a horizontal shelf. The shelf >> then rests directly on the vibration dampening mount which is then bolted >> to the boat. Periodically, I have made attempts to extract the bolt but >> only a few days ago was I finally successful. The bolt was a M12x1.75. I >> don't know what hardness the OEM called for. Years ago when I discovered >> the broken bolt I was quick to replace the remaining good one with one >> having a hardness of 10.9. For a fresh start, I now intend to replace both >> of them with new and again a hardness of 10.9. In removing the old bolt, >> my drill hole was off center and ended up cutting some of the threads. I >> approximate not more than 1/4 of the thread integrity was compromised. >> >> https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15GCOH3qKIWXl1lmjsbZqsf-ECGCrl1fN >> >> Here comes the question(s). Just for kicks, I decide to attempt to >> figure out what the sheer strength of the engine mounting bolts are >> individually. I came up with an answer but would like hear what the group >> comes up with. >> >> I also now have a bunch of other questions tumbling around like: How >> much weight would it take to break one? How much margin to failure did I >> have while operating for the last 9 years? What could have possibly caused >> this bolt to break prior to my ownership? Theories and ponderings are >> welcome. >> >> With 1/4 of the threads degraded on the newly available bolt hole, I plan >> to only torque the bolt to ~50% of max (90 ft-lbs) which would be ~45 >> ft-lbs. I'll also make sure that the lock washer is fully collapsed but >> I'm confident that that will happen well before final torque is reached. >> In sheer, I believe this bolt is providing as much or more strength simply >> by being there than anything to do with its torque. All though, I have >> heard the engineering theory that (when built appropriately) the bolts >> apply the pressure which creates the friction to prevent the pieces from >> moving in sheer. Under this argument the 2 pieces of metal don't actually >> ride on the bolt shank specifically, and the surface area where the 2 >> pieces touch is of particular importance. Looking at the engine castings, >> it would appear that maximizing surface area contact was not considered. >> As such, I can only fall back on my previous thought that the bolt shank is >> in fact carrying the load in sheer and torque is more or less irrelevant >> except for the purpose of keeping the bolt tight. I'm also aware of >> various thread repair options but in the awkward location I am fearful that >> I would cause more damage than good by attempting any of them. >> Particularly if the value added by the second bolt truly is its presence >> not its torque. >> >> All thoughts and insights are encouraged. >> >> >> All the best, >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > > > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Broken engine mount bolt
Cast iron block. Typical M12 spec On Tue, Feb 23, 2021, 15:36 Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote: > Josh, > > Where did you get the torque spec? Is it for the bolt? Or is it from the > engine manual? > > The bolt torque spec for the bolt alone may exceed the torque for the > aluminum block. > > Dennis C. > > On Tue, Feb 23, 2021 at 1:23 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > >> >> >>> With 1/4 of the threads degraded on the newly available bolt hole, I >>> plan to only torque the bolt to ~50% of max (90 ft-lbs) which would be ~45 >>> ft-lbs. >>> >>> > -- > Dennis C. > Touche' 35-1 #83 > Mandeville, LA > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Broken engine mount bolt
In the link is the parts manual picture. The bracket is #1 and the bolt is #4. In the picture it only shows 1 bolt in the lower hole but the parts list calls for 4 bolts. https://drive.google.com/file/d/15gRsJhVMa9CsB_wXpbXfzmn25azGPPgB/view?usp=drivesdk On Tue, Feb 23, 2021, 11:58 Neil Gallagher via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Josh, > > Not quite sure I got this right, are these horizontal bolts into the side > of the engine or vertical to the boat? In either case, though, the bolts > and plate are carrying the load - most of which is the thrust loading of > the propeller through the mounts and driving the boat - by a combination of > shear and friction. To be only shear, you'd have to have fitted bolts in > the plate which I doubt is the case, so here most of the load is probably > through friction. The 10.9 designation, while related to hardness, is a > strength measure for metric bolts, about equal to Grade 8 in SAE bolts. So > you have high strength bolts allowing greater torque, thus greater > friction, which increases the plate's ability to transfer thrust. > > Having said all that, for sure there's overkill in this. You've been > operating fine for 9 years with 7 instead of 8 bolts total, so putting the > last one back in even with somewhat compromised threads should be fine. If > you can run a tap into the hole to clean the threads it would help, but my > thoughts are to just go with it. > > Neil Gallagher > Weatherly, 35-1 > Glen Cove, NY > > On 2/23/2021 10:41 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote: > > Engineering discussion for the group. > > Here's the background. For about 9 years I have known about having 1 of > the 2 bolts broken on the forward starboard engine mount. These bolts hold > a piece of 1/2 inch plate steel which was bent at a 90° angle to the > vertical side of the engine. This creates a horizontal shelf. The shelf > then rests directly on the vibration dampening mount which is then bolted > to the boat. Periodically, I have made attempts to extract the bolt but > only a few days ago was I finally successful. The bolt was a M12x1.75. I > don't know what hardness the OEM called for. Years ago when I discovered > the broken bolt I was quick to replace the remaining good one with one > having a hardness of 10.9. For a fresh start, I now intend to replace both > of them with new and again a hardness of 10.9. In removing the old bolt, > my drill hole was off center and ended up cutting some of the threads. I > approximate not more than 1/4 of the thread integrity was compromised. > > https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15GCOH3qKIWXl1lmjsbZqsf-ECGCrl1fN > > Here comes the question(s). Just for kicks, I decide to attempt to figure > out what the sheer strength of the engine mounting bolts are individually. > I came up with an answer but would like hear what the group comes up with. > > I also now have a bunch of other questions tumbling around like: How much > weight would it take to break one? How much margin to failure did I have > while operating for the last 9 years? What could have possibly caused this > bolt to break prior to my ownership? Theories and ponderings are welcome. > > With 1/4 of the threads degraded on the newly available bolt hole, I plan > to only torque the bolt to ~50% of max (90 ft-lbs) which would be ~45 > ft-lbs. I'll also make sure that the lock washer is fully collapsed but > I'm confident that that will happen well before final torque is reached. > In sheer, I believe this bolt is providing as much or more strength simply > by being there than anything to do with its torque. All though, I have > heard the engineering theory that (when built appropriately) the bolts > apply the pressure which creates the friction to prevent the pieces from > moving in sheer. Under this argument the 2 pieces of metal don't actually > ride on the bolt shank specifically, and the surface area where the 2 > pieces touch is of particular importance. Looking at the engine castings, > it would appear that maximizing surface area contact was not considered. > As such, I can only fall back on my previous thought that the bolt shank is > in fact carrying the load in sheer and torque is more or less irrelevant > except for the purpose of keeping the bolt tight. I'm also aware of > various thread repair options but in the awkward location I am fearful that > I would cause more damage than good by attempting any of them. > Particularly if the value added by the second bolt truly is its presence > not its torque. > > All thoughts and insights are encouraged. > > > All the best, > > Josh Muckley > S/V Sea Hawk > 1989 C 37+ > Solomons, MD > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that con
Stus-List Broken engine mount bolt
Engineering discussion for the group. Here's the background. For about 9 years I have known about having 1 of the 2 bolts broken on the forward starboard engine mount. These bolts hold a piece of 1/2 inch plate steel which was bent at a 90° angle to the vertical side of the engine. This creates a horizontal shelf. The shelf then rests directly on the vibration dampening mount which is then bolted to the boat. Periodically, I have made attempts to extract the bolt but only a few days ago was I finally successful. The bolt was a M12x1.75. I don't know what hardness the OEM called for. Years ago when I discovered the broken bolt I was quick to replace the remaining good one with one having a hardness of 10.9. For a fresh start, I now intend to replace both of them with new and again a hardness of 10.9. In removing the old bolt, my drill hole was off center and ended up cutting some of the threads. I approximate not more than 1/4 of the thread integrity was compromised. https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15GCOH3qKIWXl1lmjsbZqsf-ECGCrl1fN Here comes the question(s). Just for kicks, I decide to attempt to figure out what the sheer strength of the engine mounting bolts are individually. I came up with an answer but would like hear what the group comes up with. I also now have a bunch of other questions tumbling around like: How much weight would it take to break one? How much margin to failure did I have while operating for the last 9 years? What could have possibly caused this bolt to break prior to my ownership? Theories and ponderings are welcome. With 1/4 of the threads degraded on the newly available bolt hole, I plan to only torque the bolt to ~50% of max (90 ft-lbs) which would be ~45 ft-lbs. I'll also make sure that the lock washer is fully collapsed but I'm confident that that will happen well before final torque is reached. In sheer, I believe this bolt is providing as much or more strength simply by being there than anything to do with its torque. All though, I have heard the engineering theory that (when built appropriately) the bolts apply the pressure which creates the friction to prevent the pieces from moving in sheer. Under this argument the 2 pieces of metal don't actually ride on the bolt shank specifically, and the surface area where the 2 pieces touch is of particular importance. Looking at the engine castings, it would appear that maximizing surface area contact was not considered. As such, I can only fall back on my previous thought that the bolt shank is in fact carrying the load in sheer and torque is more or less irrelevant except for the purpose of keeping the bolt tight. I'm also aware of various thread repair options but in the awkward location I am fearful that I would cause more damage than good by attempting any of them. Particularly if the value added by the second bolt truly is its presence not its torque. All thoughts and insights are encouraged. All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Panel rewiring
I like using terminal blocks and jumper strips cut to length. This is how my C 37+ came from the factory. See product links below. 20A is realistically probably as large as you will need but mine came with 30A terminals blocks. Typically you would design the layout so that all the power supply wires would come attach on the same side and orientation. All the loads would attach on the opposite side. In this manner a single input turned into 2 load terminals with a 2 terminal jumper. Well in reality you actually have 3 places for a load to attach but one is in the supply line side. Similarly a 3 terminal jumper creates 3 load side terminals plus 2 additional spares on the line side. I try to avoid using this line side terminals during design but for retrofits they are very useful. When using terminal blocks another technique that C used that really helps keep things clean is to bring the line side power through a hole in the panel to which the terminal block is attached. This is useful since the line side is rarely changed. Somebody probably makes a terminal board mounting panel just for this purpose. https://www.bluesea.com/products/2408/Terminal_Block_20A_-_8_Circuit https://shop.theelectricbrewery.com/products/terminal-strip-jumper-8-position All the best, Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Feb 15, 2021, 15:24 Adam Hayden via CnC-List wrote: > Hello folks. > > As one of my many winter projects I have decided to rewire the 12 volt > panel and add pigtails to make it easier to remove the panels by creating a > hinged panel. I plan to run the pig tails to a terminal block. My question > is how to distribute the positive leads from the leads to the various > interior lighting wires. I have about 4-6 different wires from different > areas of the boat. Would you suggest a terminal block with jumpers or a > bus bar? > > Any other suggestions would be appreciated. > > Adam > C 36 > > Sent from my Bell Samsung device over Canada’s largest network. > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Windstar 33-2 solar project update
Joel, When the panels heat up they become less and less efficient. That's the reason for controlling their heat if possible. If mounting on a fabric such as a Bimini I can't imagine that adding a coroplast backing would change the temperature very much since the fabric is already pretty thin. On the other hand if you were planning on mounting the panels to a hard surface then yes I believe there would be reason enough to add the backing. On my hard dodger installation I use adhesive felt pads. Now I wish I had though about coroplast. That's a great idea. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, Jan 24, 2021, 16:56 Joel Delamirande via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > I’ve seen on YouTube not over heat your panels > They put a corrugated plastic panel underneath the solar panels > It let airflow > Let me know if it worth it and total cost for that project > My wife just added that to my list > > On Sun, Jan 24, 2021 at 4:49 PM Dave S via CnC-List > wrote: > >> Installing a 175w solar panel on the bimini. >> >> https://cncwindstar.blogspot.com/2021/01/bimini-mods-for-solar-panel.html >> >> Dave >> Windstar 33-2 >> >> >> Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help >> with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > -- > Joel Delamirande > *www.jdroofing.ca <http://www.jdroofing.ca>* > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: No really a smile
This is a pretty good guide. Matches Chuck's suggestions for the most part. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk A lot of people have reported adding various combinations of layers of fiberglass. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Thu, Jan 21, 2021, 21:48 Juliano Franz via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > Hi all, > My first time messaging the list. > > A couple of months ago I came by a C 25 that was neglected (aka > abandoned) for a couple of years on the hard. I am new to boat onwing and > have been learning a lot on how to get her ready following Casey's "This > old boat" and some youtube channels. > > There is a crack (?) on the keel hull joint that I am not sure how to > tackle. It is not really a smile, maybe some broken teeth? =] Here is a > photo of it (damage is the same on both sides) https://bit.ly/3p9EsRT > Going over the variety of "smile repairs" there is one that seems like a > good option for me: G/Flex, sand, bottom paint. Can anyone share their > wisdom with me on this idea? > > Thanks all! > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Used Garmin gear
That unit takes Garmin chart cards and they can still be found on eBay. I probably have one myself. That 3210 is a nice unit and still fetches $400 by itself on ebay. Don't let the charts stop you. On Fri, Dec 4, 2020, 17:27 Edd Schillay wrote: > Dave, > > Which area’s charts are preloaded? > > All the best, > > Edd > > ———- > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the “Starship Enterprise” > C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > ———- > 914.774.9767 | Mobile > ———- > Sent via iPhone 11 Pro > iPhone. iTypos. iApologize > > > On Dec 4, 2020, at 5:22 PM, Dave Godwin via CnC-List < > cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > > Listers, > > I have replaced an old, late-90’s era GPS on one of our boats. Obviously, > it is dated technology with software and mapping no longer supported by > Garmin, hence the reason for replacement. Listed below are the items. > > Garmin GPSMAP 3210 (with charts) > Garmin GMS 10 Network Expander > Garmin GSD 22 Digital Remote Sounder > Associated cabling for all. > > There is no sounder because it is being used for the new GPS unit. The GPS > mushroom antenna is not available because rather than tear out a ton of > interior woodwork, it will remain as a vestigial item on the mast. > > I thought I’d put this out there in case someone might benefit from these > items. If there is any interest let me know. All are available for shipping > and a six-pack of good IPA. > > Photos available upon request. > > Regards, > Dave > 1982 C 37 - Ronin > 1998 Mast & Mallet Thomas Point 34 - Katana > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Rigging bolt rope main loose footed?
It will absolutely work but the bulk and weight of the sail cut and the bolt rope will be unnecessary. Though, inside the stack pack you'll probably never even know Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Nov 27, 2020, 14:25 Bruce Whitmore wrote: > Hello All, > > I was fortunate enough to find a very good condition full batten main for > our 37/40+. The problem is, it has a bolt rope, and my stack pack is set > up for a loose footed main. Any problem with using this sail loose > footed? I don't race, but do like good performance... > > Thanks! > > Bruce Whitmore > Madeira Beach, FL > > > Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with > the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the costs involved. If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: 37/40+ fuel tank
Yes. My fuel sender never goes below 1/4 tank because the level arm/float lands on a baffle. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Tue, Nov 24, 2020, 11:27 Chris Riedinger wrote: > > > Anybody know if the (stock?) 40 gallon aluminum tank under our aft berth > is baffled? > > I am planning to extend the bed and simultaneously cut an access into the > tank to clean out gunk and buildup as I assume it's never been done and > would like to know if I need to buy two access hatches or if I can get away > with one... > > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Solar power in ACR environment
Brian, While I tend to agree that a cigarette lighter might not be the best solution, I hesitate to say that it won't work. In the case that the solar charge system is intended to be portable, temporary, and easy to deploy quickly it might be a very effective solution. Most cigarette lighter adapters are designed for 10 amps or 120 watts. My 100 watt panel and MPPT control circuit provide about 6amps peak. So you are correct that a smaller gauge wire will reduce the efficiency of charge, but even a 20% reduction still provides 5 amps which should be plenty to keep most battery banks topped up. Charlie did not state the wattage of his system but as long as it isn't more than ~120 watts it should "work". There is pretty clear evidence that the solar is providing charge through the cigarette lighter since the house battery is taking a charge and staying topped up. However, the line losses might still be causing problems at the ACR. Just for kicks I pulled the blue seas efficiency chart. Assuming that the total length of wire from the battery to the solar was 25 ft for the supply and return (red + black = 50 ft total). A 16 gauge wire would lose 10% voltage at 5amps. That doesn't sound like much but https://images.app.goo.gl/FYtVRdaxeLC6MGEn9 My genasun has the following specs. - Bulk Voltage: 14.4V - Absorption Voltage: 14.2V - Absorption Time: 2 hours - Float Voltage: 13.8V The Blue Seas ACR has the following specs. Combine 30 sec 13.6V @ 12 V Combine 90 sec 13.0V @ 12 V If the charge controller was loosing 10% from 14.4v that would leave 13.0v. Just enough to maybe switch the ACR. That assumes that the controller is not reaching absorption or float voltage which is lower. If the MPPT controller is not putting out enough voltage to reach the ACR threshold (or to Brian's point not enough after line loss) then that would certainly explain why the start battery is loosing charge. We really can't tell what is going on until we know more about the battery chemistry and no load terminal voltage. Josh On Tue, Nov 24, 2020, 00:23 Brian Davis wrote: > Josh makes good points. > > Also, wiring the solar through a cigarette lighter port is poor advice. > The gauge of wiring going from it to a house even with an ACR would never > work and only be a trickle charge at best. I'm guessing the cigarette > lighter wiring is probably a 16 guage, right? Thats a problem. > > Think of wiring as being similar to plumbing in regards to pressure. A > very small tube is a small stream of pressure and even after a few days it > would not fill a large tank of water. > > You definitely need to rethink the wiring diagram. If you have one I can > review it. Also, I can send you what I have recently done on my 38 > Landfall. I literally gutted my entire boat and install everything new that > includes 3 battery banks, etc. > > Regards, > Brian > > On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 10:32 PM Josh Muckley wrote: > >> The battery monitor is probably not setup for a charger voltage to be >> entering from the cigarette lighter. To better establish the actual >> conditions of your setup you need to provide the terminal voltage of each >> of the batteries. You also need to provide the chemistry of each of the >> batteries. >> >> A flooded lead acid battery that is drained ~90% will read ~12.65v with >> no load after 24 hours of being disconnected from the circuit (physically >> remove the ground connection from the battery terminal). Anything more >> than 12.65v after 24hours of being disconnected tells me the monitor is >> wrong. This is what I would look for to confirm that the battery >> monitor is indicating true state of charger. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> >> On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 21:50 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> My boat has a house bank and a starting battery with an ACR controller >>> so that the ‘banks’ are ‘equalized’ when a charging source is >>> available—shore power or engine alternator. >>> >>> I added a solar panel to maintain the batteries without the hazards of >>> leaving the boat on shore power charging when I am not on board. >>> >>> Per local advice, I ran the solar power output controller (MPPT) current >>> thru my cigarette lighter(with the appropriate circuit breaker in the ‘on’ >>> position) and it appears to be working since my house bank (which powers >>> the cigarette lighter) looks like it is 100% charged per my Victron battery >>> monitor after 9 days without a battery charger or running the engine. >>> >>> OTOH, my starting battery voltage sa
Stus-List Re: Solar power in ACR environment
Depending on the ACR design and how it is setup it may sense either battery OR both batteries. If sensing both, then any time either battery voltage is greater than ~13.3ish the ACR connects the two. This is the simplest and most straightforward design but you'd have to read the owners manual. This design allows a charge voltage to be applied to either battery (or both) and eliminates charging system design questions. Josh On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 22:35 Joel Aronson wrote: > My understanding is that the ACR is usually connected to the start battery > and when it’s charged the relay switches to house. The controller should be > connected to the start so the relay can function > > On Mon, Nov 23, 2020 at 10:32 PM Josh Muckley wrote: > >> The battery monitor is probably not setup for a charger voltage to be >> entering from the cigarette lighter. To better establish the actual >> conditions of your setup you need to provide the terminal voltage of each >> of the batteries. You also need to provide the chemistry of each of the >> batteries. >> >> A flooded lead acid battery that is drained ~90% will read ~12.65v with >> no load after 24 hours of being disconnected from the circuit (physically >> remove the ground connection from the battery terminal). Anything more >> than 12.65v after 24hours of being disconnected tells me the monitor is >> wrong. This is what I would look for to confirm that the battery >> monitor is indicating true state of charger. >> >> Josh Muckley >> S/V Sea Hawk >> 1989 C 37+ >> Solomons, MD >> >> >> >> >> On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 21:50 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < >> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: >> >>> My boat has a house bank and a starting battery with an ACR controller >>> so that the ‘banks’ are ‘equalized’ when a charging source is >>> available—shore power or engine alternator. >>> >>> I added a solar panel to maintain the batteries without the hazards of >>> leaving the boat on shore power charging when I am not on board. >>> >>> Per local advice, I ran the solar power output controller (MPPT) current >>> thru my cigarette lighter(with the appropriate circuit breaker in the ‘on’ >>> position) and it appears to be working since my house bank (which powers >>> the cigarette lighter) looks like it is 100% charged per my Victron battery >>> monitor after 9 days without a battery charger or running the engine. >>> >>> OTOH, my starting battery voltage sagged over these 9 days of this test >>> to about 90% of maximum per the Victron battery monitor. >>> >>> My understanding of the ACR is that it should distribute charging >>> current to keep both battery banks ‘equalized’ so the lower charge state on >>> the starting battery doesn’t make sense to me. >>> >>> My questions to the list are: >>> >>> 1. Should the ACR be equalizing the charging source current as I discuss >>> above, even when this current might be significantly less than my shore >>> power Xantex 40? >>> >>> 2. If so, why is my starting battery ‘down’? >>> >>> 3. If not, what am I doing wrong? I could hook up the solar directly to >>> the starting battery but with the ACR, this seemed unnecessary (if I >>> understand how an ACR works.) >>> >>> Charlie Nelson >>> 1985 C 36XL/kcb >>> Water Phantom >>> Sent from AOL Mobile Mail >>> Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com >>> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution >>> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - >>> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >>> Thanks - Stu >> >> October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution >> to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - >> use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray >> Thanks - Stu > > -- > Joel > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Solar power in ACR environment
The battery monitor is probably not setup for a charger voltage to be entering from the cigarette lighter. To better establish the actual conditions of your setup you need to provide the terminal voltage of each of the batteries. You also need to provide the chemistry of each of the batteries. A flooded lead acid battery that is drained ~90% will read ~12.65v with no load after 24 hours of being disconnected from the circuit (physically remove the ground connection from the battery terminal). Anything more than 12.65v after 24hours of being disconnected tells me the monitor is wrong. This is what I would look for to confirm that the battery monitor is indicating true state of charger. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Mon, Nov 23, 2020, 21:50 Charlie Nelson via CnC-List < cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote: > My boat has a house bank and a starting battery with an ACR controller so > that the ‘banks’ are ‘equalized’ when a charging source is available—shore > power or engine alternator. > > I added a solar panel to maintain the batteries without the hazards of > leaving the boat on shore power charging when I am not on board. > > Per local advice, I ran the solar power output controller (MPPT) current > thru my cigarette lighter(with the appropriate circuit breaker in the ‘on’ > position) and it appears to be working since my house bank (which powers > the cigarette lighter) looks like it is 100% charged per my Victron battery > monitor after 9 days without a battery charger or running the engine. > > OTOH, my starting battery voltage sagged over these 9 days of this test to > about 90% of maximum per the Victron battery monitor. > > My understanding of the ACR is that it should distribute charging current > to keep both battery banks ‘equalized’ so the lower charge state on the > starting battery doesn’t make sense to me. > > My questions to the list are: > > 1. Should the ACR be equalizing the charging source current as I discuss > above, even when this current might be significantly less than my shore > power Xantex 40? > > 2. If so, why is my starting battery ‘down’? > > 3. If not, what am I doing wrong? I could hook up the solar directly to > the starting battery but with the ACR, this seemed unnecessary (if I > understand how an ACR works.) > > Charlie Nelson > 1985 C 36XL/kcb > Water Phantom > Sent from AOL Mobile Mail > Get the new AOL app: mail.mobile.aol.com > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Smile!
Welp Don't forget to torque the keel bolts while you are there. Grind a deep v-groove extending about 1/2 inch on either side. Fill with thickened g-flex epoxy. Grind smooth. Glass with a 2 inch wide layer, sand, then glass with 4 inch wide layer. Sand. Fair. Epoxy barrier coat. Bottom paint. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yV1JEN3YxQk1RbHc/view?usp=drivesdk Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Sun, Nov 22, 2020, 16:30 David Risch wrote: > Yup…Finally need to go at it. Large piece of fairing delaminated from > keel to hull stub. Seems as though there was a black substrate filling in > the 3/8” keel to stub difference underneath a glass coating. Any idea > what that black stuff was? > > > > Or I needn’t care as I should just grind, sand, fill and fair with > epoxy/fairing compound, wrap with a few layers of glass then a final > sanding. > > > > Am I missing something? Thanks in advance. > > > > David F. Risch > > Managing Director > > Great Benefits USA > > 401-419-4650 - Direct Line > > www.greatbenefitsusa.com > <http://secure-web.cisco.com/1MKVfvkygVP51lGc2yziNIFDb1f7QyqlMMC0Ws5XFwrh5Z29yk8V9-H-BpWPdc4H-KLGYNJ8xByn00jzsd-2Ha4CJqta-Oi4SR3zv-ilvvFQgk2r1dTGx91oAnCtrCtWX3971epXdF8ZQx6oCN2aVAz4G2C1e3AFPPZNeJDlLweF62zGZQ07PHpl8HRpYdWC2krf8nk8VytnngLfzo-HMlRvyliYY5btbWmG2ov1MoH8MQ_Pu-H9km1SSOFq4VsiFRn62vshzHwa2jYYWiHfn79noxm3wQLeI3kjNdWmHg705FbzWALYFp_QCz0Eu9z0S/http%3A%2F%2Fwww.greatbenefitsusa.com%2F> > > > > *The content of this email is confidential and intended for the recipient > specified in message only. It is strictly forbidden to share any part of > this message with any third party, without a written consent of the sender. > If you received this message by mistake, please reply to this message and > follow with its deletion, so that we can ensure such a mistake does not > occur in the future.* > > *Great Benefits USA puts the security of the client at a high priority. > Therefore, we have put efforts into ensuring that the message is error and > virus-free. Unfortunately, full security of the email cannot be ensured as, > despite our efforts, the data included in emails could be infected, > intercepted, or corrupted. Therefore, the recipient should check the email > for threats with proper software, as the sender does not accept liability > for any damage inflicted by viewing the content of this email.* > > > > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: HIN on a 37+
Aft Stbd corner just below the fairlead. Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Nov 20, 2020, 12:30 Edd Schillay wrote: > Listers, > > Anyone know where the HIN is stamped on a C 37/40+? > > All the best, > > Edd > > ———- > Edd M. Schillay > Captain of the “Starship Enterprise” > C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B > Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL > www.StarshipSailing.com > ———- > 914.774.9767 | Mobile > ———- > Sent via iPhone 11 Pro > iPhone. iTypos. iApologize > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
Stus-List Re: Sails
My experience is that it is invaluable to have the loft able to come measure, fit, review, revise, and service your sail. Many many lofts will send the actual manufacture of the sail overseas but that is irrelevant if you have a loft that is performing the above services. I use Quantum because they are the loft that is less than 5 minutes away. If desired part of their service is to rig and unrig the sails and sail pack... I don't even have to there! Josh Muckley S/V Sea Hawk 1989 C 37+ Solomons, MD On Fri, Nov 20, 2020, 07:59 Lewis Cooke wrote: > Hello all, > Thank you for all the comments regarding sails for For Play. I have > received quotes from 5 different lofts regarding sails and although I > believe you get what you pay for, I also agree with what Joe said that you > are buying a sail maker as well. > Here is a list of quoted sails, I tried to keep it apples to apples as > much as possible, > Daron cruiser/ Wednesday night racer > 1Reef, cunningham, Draft stripes, Leach tell tails, full batten on top and > numbers. > Precision 1,030.61 Made in Sri Lanka > Sobstad 1,459.00 Made in Cleveland, OH > North Sails 1,848.00 Made in ? > Doyle 1,800.00 Made in ? > Rolly Tasker 1,398.00 Made in ? > UK Sails 1,745.00 Made in Chicago > > I'm leaning towards Sobstad because they are local (1/2 hour drive) from > me,North, Doyal, Rolly Tasker all have lofts in town But the sails are > manufactured elsewhere. > Thoughts from anyone? > > Lewis Cooke > S/V For Play > C 30-1 > Hull #45 > Lorain, OH > > > October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to > this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use > PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks > - Stu October is the time to show your appreciation with a small contribution to this list to help offset the costs. If you want to support the list - use PayPal to send contribution -- https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu
