Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Garhauer will copy the bolt locations onto a new track, free of charge (?) (at 
least it was free when I got mine).  I strongly second the Garhauer 
recommendation, Mine is working fine after more than 12 years.  Though I got 
the same traveler as the Catalina 36, so it does not work at the design limits. 

Garhauer is also heavier than Harken, but you have to have everything else 110% 
perfect for that to make a difference, in racing.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32.


On Sat, 10/13/18, Chris Graham via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Chris Graham" 
 Date: Saturday, October 13, 2018, 7:27 AM
 
 
 Oh wow!
 I’ll see if I can
 find that and take a look Chris 
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Saturday, October 13, 2018, 10:25 AM, Sam Salter via
 CnC-List  wrote:Not necessarily cheap, but Harken
 makes a track that has a longitudinal slot on the underside.
 It fits the head of the installation bolts so they can slide
 anywhere along the track. No filling and redrilling  - they
 can match the original bolt spacing - easy, quick
 install.
 sam
 On Oct 13, 2018, at 7:13 AM, Chris Graham via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 I need to first replace the main traveler system. Any
 suggestions with a system that won’t break the
 bank?
 Chris 
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:43 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List
 
 wrote:Roller furler - Profurl
 
 sam 
 On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:19 PM, Chris Graham via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 Gotcha! 
 Roller furling or
 hank on Sam?
 
 
 Sent from Yahoo Mail for
 iPhone
 
 On
 Friday, October 12, 2018, 7:16 PM, Sam Salter via CnC-List
 
 wrote:Chris,
 I meant to say “I upgraded to New
 Dacron sails and changed the Genoa to a 135”
 I might have got a little more speed
 from the folding prop, but the laminate Genoa sets much
 better and allows me to point a little higher. A laminate
 main would improve that some more. And hopefully reduce the
 “bubble” at the luff.
 
 sam
 On Oct 12, 2018, at 5:03 PM, Sam Salter 
 wrote:
 
 Chris,
 When I bought the 26, It came with a
 150 Dacron genoa and a Dacron main. After a few years I
 upgraded to new Dacron sails and changed the main to a 135.
 Later I changed the Genoa to a 135 laminate sail from
 Evolution Sails in Toronto.Both upgrades improved
 performance (after all it is a sail boat), but the laminate
 sail was such a difference that I think I would go with a
 110 if I was doing it again.I still have the new
 Dacron main but I might go with a laminate one
 day. Best upgrades:New
 sailsFolding propSelf
 tailers (The folding prop might have given me
 more speed than the new sails)
 
 sam C&C 26  Liquorice Ghost
 Lake Alberta 
 
 On Oct
 12, 2018, at 8:51 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 Thank you Sam!
 This 26' could be dropped in
 tomorrow. Most issues are cosmetic with the exception of one
 stanchion and either the water fill or septic pump out cap
 (don't want to confuse the  two) LOL So some recoring
 in the spring but I enjoy that kind of work and it really is
 minimal. Other than that, shes good to go.
 Thanks for the input. Main sail has
 two reef points which I am thankful for.
 Chris
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Friday, October 12, 2018, 10:46:20 AM
 EDT, Sam Salter via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 I have a
 1977 C&C 26.I was looking for a 27 when I bought
 her.The 26 wasn’t raced much; the 27 is still
 competitive!Most (many?) 27’s have been raced
 hard and put away wet.That’s why I bought the
 26 - it was in much better condition than all the 27’s I
 looked at.The 26 is a tender boat!She
 does move quite well in light air.I tend to reef
 early; but she still moves well, even when
 reefed.I lake sail, so not sure what she’d be
 like in a big sea.I’ve had 7.4 knots on
 occasion and high 6’s is fairly regular.She is
 a roomy boat which is nice!I have a Yanmar 2GM20F
 in mine with a Flexofold prop.I’ve done lots of
 upgrades: self trailers / new sails / adjustable Genoa cars
 / ridged vang / etc., etc..I like the cockpit
 size and tiller steering up close to the companionway with
 the genoa trimmer behind on the winches.She’s a
 good, solid boat compared to the Hunters and Catalina’s on
 the lake.Don’t buy a project boat - get one you
 can sail away!Upgrades are much more fun than
 repairs.I see too many project boats that never
 get in the water.
 
 sam C$C 26
  Liquorice Ghost Lake
 Alberta 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks
 everyone for supporting this list

Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I second your thoughts about 'smaller'.  I traded up from a 25 to a 32, because 
of my (ex)wife.  While I truly enjoy the 32, it is is a nice boat, I wish I 
kept the 25.  Just the right size for coastal cruising, including Catalina Is.  
The 32 is more comfortable, no question.  But it is just that much more work.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32
was Navigo2 C&C25


On Thu, 10/11/18, Chris Graham via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
 To: "Richard Bush via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "Chris Graham" 
 Date: Thursday, October 11, 2018, 6:53 AM
 
 
 I really do appreciate the feedback and
 encouragement. I watched my father-in-law sell his beloved
 27' to move up to a 34' to appease his wife who
 complained that she was "hot and bobbing"...I
 heard the same complaints on the the 34'er and again on
 their 37'. I remember him lamenting the day he sold the
 27'er, and it has stuck with me ever since. I never
 regretted for a day downsizing from my 34' to my 28'
 and felt I was getting closer to what I really enjoyed about
 sailing. I have some time here to see what is out there but
 I feel no real pull toward a 30' boat regardless of
 initial purchase price. 
 I am pretty steadfast in my desire
 to keep it small and manageable. My days of  the
 "bigger is better" trap is one I don't wish to
 fall into again ;)
 I
 have a three bedroom house and wish I had a one bedroom!! 
 :)
 Chris
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Thursday, October 11, 2018, 9:32:55
 AM EDT, Richard Bush via CnC-List
  wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
  I second David's comments; when I
 bought my first C&C, (1982 25 II); it never dawned on me
 that I would be trading up; however, there is a growth curve
 that happens once you get on the boat and learn how it
 functions and how to use the boat;  After having the boat
 for several years, I was on a friend's larger boat (a
 J-29), and I remember thinking (to myself)...I can handle
 this!  Thus began a progression similar to many on this
 list:  (all C&C's); 25; 29, 33 and currently, a 37:
   
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard
 
 
  
 
 s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio
 River, Mile 600:
 
 
 
 Richard N. Bush
 
 
 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane,
 Suite Nine 
 
 
 
 Louisville, Kentucky
 40220-1462 
 
 
 
 502-584-7255
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 -Original
 Message-
 
 From: David via CnC-List 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 
 Cc: David 
 
 Sent: Thu, Oct 11, 2018 9:21 am
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or 27'?
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Whether its a 30 or 27 or 26.  Have patience with
 looking.   Someone in the next town
 gave away a decent 30' to a
 deserving family who would use and love the boat as it  was
 by its original owner.  Its not always the money.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 With that in mind look for the best whatever footage (me? go
 for the 30, you will be trading up within 5 years anyway)
 you can find with all the work done, sails purchased etc.
 and do not be afraid to have a budget that you will stick to
 and offer.  They can
  only say no.  But  they may say yes for non-economic
 (emotional) reasons.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Lots of boats out there and lots of eyes all over the
 country to help if its not local to you.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 David F. Risch, J.
 D.
 
 
 Gulf
 Stream
 Associates,
 LLC 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 (401)
 419-4650 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 From: CnC-List
  on behalf of Dave S
 via CnC-List 
 
 Sent: Thursday, October 11, 2018 8:25 AM
 
 To: Chris Graham
 
 Cc: Dave S; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 26' or
 27'?
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Agreed with Bruce - none of the boats in this range are
 too big to be easily handled with a small crew.  IMO you
 are unlikely to wish you’d bought a 27 after having bought
 a 30.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 You described the condition of the 27 in some detail
 and it clearly needs a lot of work.  There are tons of
 tired boats out there, be patient.  There will be another
 one tomorrow  be prepared to pay more for a very well
 maintained boat - someone else’s
  labour of love. (Money pit)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Other thing is to make a list of the ‘must have’
 equipment and be disciplined about that too.  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 The cost of repair and outfitting a tired 27 will can
 quickly exceed its acquisition cost.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 My $.02
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Dave 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sent
 from my iPhone
 
 
 
 
 On Oct 11, 2018, at 8:10 AM, Chris Graham 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Thanks Bruce!
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I’m going to be single handing 90% of the time, and
 storage, mooring costs, sail replacement, etc...is another
 reason why I’m trying to keep the length down. 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I do understand the 30’ is a superior boat on many
 levels. I think I’m committed to a smaller size though I
 may be convinced otherwise if something were to present
 itself. :) 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 You nailed 

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Thanks for your effort

It was a 1976 (75?) vintage and name "Navigo 2"; latin "I sail", my first boat 
was Navigo. I wonder where the C&C25 is, it kind of disappeared from the area.

Leslie.


On Fri, 10/5/18, Don Kern via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C&C"
 To: "Leslie Paal via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "Don Kern" 
 Date: Friday, October 5, 2018, 9:23 PM
 
 Leslie,
 
 The total spreadsheet is tracking
 previous owned C&Cs. However, it is 
 too big to send via CnC-list, so you
 are just seeing the current 
 ownership. I do have the data on your
 C&C 25 and that you owned it 14 
 years, but not its name nor vintage.
 
 Don
 
 
 On 10/5/2018 12:24 PM, Leslie Paal via
 CnC-List wrote:
 > couple items:
 > - Pasadena is in CA (L.A. county)
 > - I owned a C&C25 before, did
 not see it.  Maybe the info did not yet make the
 spreadsheet.
 >
 > Leslie.
 >
 
 > On Thu, 10/4/18, Don Kern via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 >
 >   Subject: Stus-List Update
 to "How long owned a C&C"
 >   To: "T Smyth via CnC-List"
 
 >   Cc: "Don Kern" 
 >   Date: Thursday, October 4,
 2018, 4:06 PM
 >   
 >   This is an update to the
 spread sheet
 >   (attached) from the replies
 to
 >   Jack's request, in which I
 have added
 >   emails addresses.
 >   
 >   Please let me know by
 email, if you
 >   want to make corrections to
 the list.
 >   
 >   Best regards,
 >   
 >   Don Kern
 >   Fireball - 12708
 >   1974 C&C 35 Mk2
 >   Bristol, RI 02809
 >   
 >  
 ___
 >   
 >   Thanks everyone for
 supporting this list with your
 >   contributions.  Each and
 every one is greatly
 >   appreciated.  If you want
 to support the list - use
 >   PayPal to send contribution
 --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 >   
 >   
 >   -Inline Attachment
 Follows-
 >   
 >   
 >
 >
 ___
 >
 > Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one
 is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the
 list - use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 >
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this
 list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Thanks for doing the spreadsheet!

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/4/18, Don Kern via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C&C"
 To: "T Smyth via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "Don Kern" 
 Date: Thursday, October 4, 2018, 4:06 PM
 
 This is an update to the spread sheet
 (attached) from the replies to 
 Jack's request, in which I have added
 emails addresses.
 
 Please let me know by email, if you
 want to make corrections to the list.
 
 Best regards,
 
 Don Kern
 Fireball - 12708
 1974 C&C 35 Mk2
 Bristol, RI 02809
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

couple items:
- Pasadena is in CA (L.A. county)
- I owned a C&C25 before, did not see it.  Maybe the info did not yet make the 
spreadsheet.

Leslie.

On Thu, 10/4/18, Don Kern via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Update to "How long owned a C&C"
 To: "T Smyth via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "Don Kern" 
 Date: Thursday, October 4, 2018, 4:06 PM
 
 This is an update to the spread sheet
 (attached) from the replies to 
 Jack's request, in which I have added
 emails addresses.
 
 Please let me know by email, if you
 want to make corrections to the list.
 
 Best regards,
 
 Don Kern
 Fireball - 12708
 1974 C&C 35 Mk2
 Bristol, RI 02809
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Long time sailing experience??

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Looks like I'm in 'the same boat', stated sailing by racing on an old Olympic 
class wooden boat at the same time.  Came from soaring (sail plane) when I 
moved to the sea shore.  Here in the US I had a C&C25 from 78-92; did not 
consider anything else than C&C when upgrading.  Moved the 25 from Marblehead 
MA to San Diego CA, there was no question as the west coast is thin in C&Cs.

Leslie.


On Thu, 9/27/18, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Long time sailing experience??
 To: "CnClist" 
 Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Date: Thursday, September 27, 2018, 7:50 AM
 
 Interesting thread on
 the longevity of both individual and
 family C&C ownership.  Also interesting is the length
 of sailing experience on the list.  52 years, etc.! 
 Nice.
 Gosh, I feel like a newbie having started in the
 late 70's.  Hate to admit it but I'm a recovering
 beach cat sailor.  Started my racing career on the fore
 deck and still occasionally work the "pointy
 end".  Just happy to be on the water these
 days.
 Dennis C.Touche' 35-1
 #83Mandeville,
 LA___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List C&C long time question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I'm the second owner of a 1983 C&C32.  Since 1992, and plan to keep it.

Leslie
Phoenix


On Thu, 9/27/18, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List C&C long time question
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "robert" , "Jack Fitzgerald" 

 Date: Thursday, September 27, 2018, 5:56 AM
 
 
 Jack:
 
 
 
 Hope you are going to keep score.I am also the
 second owner of a
 1984 C&C 32...have had AZURA since 200612 years
 now and plan
 to keep her for many more.
 
 
 
 Rob Abbott
 
 AZURA
 
 C&C 32 - 84
 
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 
 
 On 2018-09-27 9:50 AM,
 Jack Fitzgerald
   via CnC-List wrote:
 
 
 
   
 Hello Al,
 
 
 
 I have a question for the list.
 
 
 
 How many of you have owned your current C&C
 yacht for 5
   years or longer.
 
 
 
 FYI - we have owned Honey since October 1976
 and are
   currently the second owners.
 
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 Best
 regards,
 
   Jack Fitzgerald, 
 HONEY -
 US12788
 1974 C&C
 39 TM
 Savannah, GA
 31410 USA
 
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
   
 
 
 
   ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

make sure the powder is not compacted, need to shake it up regularly.  It will 
not work if the powder is in one big lump.

Leslie,
semi-retired USAR member.


On Wed, 6/27/18, svrebeccaleah via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers & Lifeslings
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "svrebeccaleah" 
 Date: Wednesday, June 27, 2018, 9:55 AM
 
 Eric,I
 just replaced some of my fire extinguishers. There was a
 year embossed on the bottom of mine. One was 88, another was
 94. As long as the pressure is in the green, and weight is
 above minimum on label they are serviceable.(this is how we
 check the at the airline I work for).  I use a small
 kitchen scale. 
 
 
 Doug
 Mountjoy Rebecca
 Leah LF39 Port Orchard YC,
 WA.
 
 
  Original
 message From: Eric Frank via CnC-List
  Date: 6/27/18 
 08:56  (GMT-08:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Eric Frank 
 Subject: Stus-List checking fire extinguishers
 & Lifeslings 
 
 Checking the condition of the
 extinguishers aboard Cats Paw - I can’t find a date on
 them.  Aren’t they supposed to be replaced every 5 years,
 or is it sufficient to just check that the pressure
 indicator is safely in the green? A related safety issue - I
 checked the line inside my Lifesling and discovered the
 splice between the yellow polypropylene line and the heavier
 line that is secured to a deck cleat was in terrible
 condition.  It would likely have broken had we used it.
 That has not been on my list to check annually but certainly
 is now - just passing this along to the group.
  Polypropylene is UV sensitive, so it's likely the
 plastic line should be replaced.  Is that safe (and would
 it satisfy a safety inspection) - if so how does one splice
 the plastic line with the heavier line at the end? For this
 year, I decided to buy a new Lifesling, although the
 Sunbrella cover I had made for it when purchased seems in
 good condition.
 
 Eric
 Frank
 Cat's
 Paw, C&C 35 Mk II
 Mattapoisett, MA
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Radar Reflector

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

... and I have a very logical explanation why you should buy the bridge I have 
in Brooklyn...;-)

Leslie.
(unless some laws of physics have changed in the last few years.)



On Wed, 5/23/18, robert via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Radar Reflector
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "robert" 
 Date: Wednesday, May 23, 2018, 6:25 AM
 
 A friend with a scientific
 background offered up an explanation of what 
 'might' have happened to my radar
 reflector.
 
 He said
 "Did you ever put a plastic container that had a bit of
 metal 
 left behind from the safety seal on
 its top edge in the microwave oven 
 and hit
 'Start'.  A small piece of metal will make a big
 bang 
 accompanied by a flash of fire. 
 Radar waves and microwaves can be in 
 the
 same gigahertz frequency range.  Maybe your reflector got
 hit by 
 high power radar gigahertz waves
 from another vessel and exploded the 
 same
 as that small piece of metal in a microwave oven."
 
 The most logical explanation I
 have heard ..and there was a large 
 commercial vessel leaving the harbor when it
 exploded.FYI
 
 Rob
 Abbott
 AZURA
 C&C 32
 -84
 Halifax, N.S.
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA too??? (Edd Schillay)

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

gently splitting hairs

the current drawn is controlled by the potential difference and the total 
resistance in the loop.  It includes the battery internal resistance too.  So 
reducing the internal resistance by, paralleling the batteries, and all other 
variables are the same; there will be more current flowing. For all practical 
purposes the difference is not huge after the starter is spinning; the initial 
'short circuit' current will be higher for a fraction of second.

;-)

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Tue, 5/1/18, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Parallel Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA 
too??? (Edd Schillay)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, "'Edd Schillay'" 
 Cc: "Rick Brass" , "'Thomas Delaney'" 

 Date: Tuesday, May 1, 2018, 7:50 AM
 
 #yiv4717391137
 #yiv4717391137 --
  
  _filtered #yiv4717391137 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv4717391137 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
 #yiv4717391137  
 #yiv4717391137 p.yiv4717391137MsoNormal, #yiv4717391137
 li.yiv4717391137MsoNormal, #yiv4717391137
 div.yiv4717391137MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;font-family:New
 serif;}
 #yiv4717391137 a:link, #yiv4717391137
 span.yiv4717391137MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv4717391137 a:visited, #yiv4717391137
 span.yiv4717391137MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv4717391137 span.yiv4717391137EmailStyle17
{font-family:sans-serif;color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv4717391137 .yiv4717391137MsoChpDefault
{font-family:sans-serif;}
  _filtered #yiv4717391137 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv4717391137 div.yiv4717391137WordSection1
{}
 #yiv4717391137 I think I should add a comment for
 the benefit of the non-engineering types on the
 list:  Yes, the ABILITY of the parallel
 batteries to deliver cranking amps does double.  But the actual current flow 
will
 not. The current draw (cranking amps) is a function of the
 voltage of the battery and the size of the engine being
 cranked, and that is a relative constant.  The parallel batteries are still
 12 volts (well, maybe 12.6) and Ohm’s Law still applies.
 E=I*R  where E=volts, R=resistance, and I=current flow.
 When you parallel the batteries the voltage is the same. The
 “resistance” of the starter is the same regardless of
 how many batteries. So the current draw remains the
 same.  A note regarding the
 “resistance” of the starter: Someone would probably
 comment that the windings of the starter are a dead short,
 so there is negligible “resistance” if you measure
 across the starter windings with a OHM meter. The
 “resistance” we’re actually talking about here is
 inductance, or the resistance generated by the magnetic
 field in the starter windings as the starter tries to
 produce torque to spin the starter against the compression
 of the engine. It only appears when the starter solenoid is
 closed while starting the engine.  The specs for the Yanmar 3YM30
 shows a 1.4kw starter that draws 90 cranking amps at 2700
 RPM when you start with a 12V battery.  The current draw
 would go up if battery state of charge were less, or if the
 ambient temperature were lower (hence the Cold Cranking Amp
 rating for the battery – which is the output at 0 degrees
 F. Marine cranking amps are at 32F IIRC). If you crank the
 3YM30 with a battery having an initial voltage of 11v, the
 starter will draw just over 100 amps. If the engine is
 frozen up (or the battery is about 5 or 6 volts) the current
 draw to produce the 1.4KW of cranking power is between 200A
 and 300A.  I wasn’t able to find an
 installation manual for the 3YM30, but I’d expect it to
 tell you to size and fuse the battery cables for about 200
 amps of current draw – even though normal starting current
 is just 90 amps. Just for comparison, on my 36HP, 4-cylinder
 Universal M35B the installation manual says to size the
 cables and fuse for a max of 175 amps.  OK. Everyone (except us nerds) are
 bored now. So I’ll fall out of technical trainer mode.
   But, Edd, the essential message is
 the CAPACITY to deliver current doubles, but the actual
 current flow will not because it is dependent on what is
 connected to the batteries.
 Rick BrassWashington, NC        From: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
 Thomas Delaney via CnC-List
 Sent:
 Monday, April 30, 2018 6:27 PM
 To:
 cnc-list@cnc-list.com; Edd Schillay
 
 Cc: Thomas
 Delaney 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Parallel
 Batteries -- Double the Ah, but Double the CCA too??? (Edd
 Schillay)
  Hi Edd,  CCA, AH, and reserve capacity
 double if you put the batteries in parallel. Here is the
 documentation from East Penn I used to set up my MPPT to
 work with my AGMs, it has lots of useful battery
 information: 
  ___
 
 Thanks everyone for suppo

Re: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

mine is too, and it was delivered with the 'after market' heat exchanger (but 
no expansion tank).  The sales document lists the engine as fresh water cooled. 
 Never had any issue with the circulating pumps impeller on the engine. (normal 
replacement interval)

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Mon, 4/30/18, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Fresh Water Conversion Yanmar 3HM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Chuck Gilchrest" 
 Date: Monday, April 30, 2018, 11:39 AM
 
 Silly me.  Since I
 bought my 1983 Landfall 35 a bit over 2 years ago, I had
 been under the assumption since there was an
 “expansion tank” on the engine that had coolant
 in it, that it was a fresh water cooled engine from the
 factory.  It is a Yanmar 3HM 30.   No (F) on
 the engine tag.  I had never even bothered to
 look..  Yeah, the heat exchanger looked a bit different
 from the one in the Yanmar manual, but since I’d been
 having a marina commission and decommission my engine each
 year, changing water pump impellers as necessary (“go
 ahead and do it”), I thought all was OK.  I even
 had a raw water pump changed out when the old one was
 demolished due to the “cam” screw backing out
 and galling the inside of the pump.  Turns out
 there’s more going on.  Low and behold, this year,
 when the mechanic looked around the engine, he mentioned
 that it was the first time he’d ever seen a small
 diesel with not one but two raw water pumps.  As it
 turns out, the engine appears to have had a fresh water
 conversion which was made by Sen-Dure, (thus the Sen-Dure
 expansion tank/heat exchanger) and a second external pump
 running off a belt.  So one of the two coolant pumps is
 actually a circulation pump (the one down low on the engine)
 and the other is a raw water pump..the one we replaced last
 year.  Has anyone ever heard of
 C&C converting engines from Raw to Fresh at the factory
 (Barry Carroll, Middletown RI built boat), or is it more
 likely an owner conversion?  My mechanic says that the
 rubber impeller on a raw water pump will never hold up to
 the heat of the interior engine coolant and will always burn
 up  impellers prematurely if I keep things as they
 are.  At one point Yanmar made a fresh water conversion
 kit for 3HM engines, but very unlikely there would be any
 availability considering the motor hasn’t been built
 since 1983.This engine
 is somewhat dastardly in that it is installed backwards with
 a V-Drive, making access to the “front” of the
 motor a really tough job.Right now, I’m at a
 crossroads which involves:Finding a suitable circulation pump
 that is up to the job for the existing system, since I just
 de-scaled the heat exhchanger and bought a new stainless
 mixing elbowFinding the needed parts to do a
 Yanmar factory Fresh water conversionKeep the boat out of the water this
 year and save up to re-power. Lavishing multiple thousands
 at a 36 year old diesel may not be the best way to spend
 money.Any
 suggestions would be welcome..Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 
35Padanaram, MA  
  ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

This maybe old news to some, but I just realized that my phone provider (via 
cable) has a lot (20K+) free wifi spots, all over the country.  They are 
secured, but your provider's username/password will let you use it. I have it 
programmed in my cellphone and can get good connection in most places.  Worth 
looking into.

I was wondering why I had wifi in Europe, with a local SIM card.  When I 
purchased the SIM card they programmed the same automatically...  It was nice 
to have but not important, so I did not think much about it.  But it was nice 
to stream some YouTube entertainment while waiting for the train running late.

Leslie.


On Mon, 2/26/18, Paul E via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Omni WiFi antenna installation / connection range
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Paul E" 
 Date: Monday, February 26, 2018, 8:44 AM
 
 Hi,
 About 3 yrs ago I installed a WiFi
 system with the Ubiquiti BULLET-M2-HP WiFi radio mounted on
 top of the mast.   These units are built for outdoor
---%<

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Insurance issues

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

sorry, I should have read this email before responding.  I do not know the 
answer, I need to re-read the contract.  (I was in the Coast Guard so salvage 
was not on my mind so much.)  Maybe something to brush up on.

Leslie.


On Thu, 2/8/18, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance issues
 To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
 Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
 Date: Thursday, February 8, 2018, 3:58 AM
 
 Let me expand on that:
 My BOATUS coverage has salvage coverage
 for the full hull value. I could be covered for a total loss
 to hull value AND a salvage claim to full hull value. Absent
 that, the salvor would get paid and I would not.
 
 Joe Della Barba
 Coquina
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, February 08, 2018 6:52
 AM
 To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
 Cc: Della Barba, Joe
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance
 issues
 
 Does that include separate salvage
 coverage?
 Joe
 Coquina
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2018
 10:05 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance
 issues
 
 Wow.  Does that include racing?
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 9:02
 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Leslie Paal
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance
 issues
 
 well, my boat is only 32 feet, and been
 insured with Allstate without any questions.  I did not
 have any claim so far (10+ years) and my last premium was
 $180 (about) with good coverage (inc. full value, extras,
 spill, 3rd party, etc.)
 
 Leslie
 Phoenix C&C32 1983
 
 
 On Tue, 2/6/18, Della Barba, Joe via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance
 issues
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
 
 Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
 Date: Tuesday, February 6, 2018, 7:41
 AM
 
 My Allstate agent said no way
 would Allstate touch a 35 foot boat.
 I had
 one claim with BOATUS and I could not
 be happier with the service. Basically "get it fixed, have
 the yard fax us the bill". We hit an underwater something,
 not sure what, and it bent the prop shaft.
 
 
 
 Joe Della
 Barba
 Coquina
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Howard and Skippy via
 CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 9:46
 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Howard and Skippy 
 Subject: Stus-List Insurance issues
 
 Insurance experience
 My C&C 35-3 has been insured by
 Allstate for the last 25 years and I have experience with 3
 major claims. Once, while transiting Plum Gut with my son at
 the helm, doing about 8 kts with the big chute up, we hit an
 unseen, underground spire submerged 6' below the surface.
 20k later Allstate covered all but the 500 deductible and
 there was no increase in rate which has held at about 5-600
 with an insured value of 60k + 6k for "accessories" for the
 duration of
 coverage.   About 10-15 years ago,
 the
 boat, during a storm, was blown off its
 jack stands when the cover caught one of the stands causing
 hull and rigging damage. some 20+k later, Allstate handled
 the claim speedily and without premium increase.
 The boat was
 totaled in Super Storm Sandy. After a
 45K payout, Allstate
 
 gave me the boat along with the check.
 I used the $ to rebuild the boat and she is as good as or
 better now than new. There has been no real
 
 increase in premium. I can only praise
 Allstate in that they are 1/2 the
 cost of
 Boat US, have been easy to work with
 and have stuck with me
 
 through  3 major incidents.
 Howard Paul, skipper Knot Again
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this
 list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use 
 PayPal to send contribution --  
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this
 list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you wan

Re: Stus-List Insurance issues

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

it includes removing if it sinks and it is a navigational hazard, also cleaning 
up any spills.  (We do not have hurricanes so I do not know what would be 
covered.)  The loss of the boat is covered.

Leslie.


On Thu, 2/8/18, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance issues
 To: "'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'" 
 Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
 Date: Thursday, February 8, 2018, 3:51 AM
 
 Does that include separate
 salvage coverage?
 Joe
 Coquina
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 10:05 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Matthew L. Wolford
 Subject:
 Re: Stus-List Insurance issues
 
 Wow.  Does that include racing?
 
 -Original Message-----
 From: Leslie Paal via CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2018 9:02 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Leslie Paal
 Subject: Re:
 Stus-List Insurance issues
 
 well, my boat is only 32 feet, and been insured
 with Allstate without any questions.  I did not have any
 claim so far (10+ years) and my last premium was $180
 (about) with good coverage (inc. full value, extras, spill,
 3rd party, etc.)
 
 Leslie
 Phoenix C&C32 1983
 
 
 On Tue, 2/6/18, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
 Subject: Re:
 Stus-List Insurance issues
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
 
 Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
 Date: Tuesday, February 6, 2018, 7:41 AM
 
 My Allstate agent said no
 way
 would Allstate touch a 35 foot boat.
 I had
 one claim with BOATUS and
 I could not be happier with the service. Basically "get
 it fixed, have the yard fax us the bill". We hit an
 underwater something, not sure what, and it bent the prop
 shaft.
 
 
 
 Joe Della
 Barba
 Coquina
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Howard and Skippy via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 9:46 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Howard and Skippy 
 Subject: Stus-List Insurance issues
 
 Insurance experience
 My C&C 35-3 has been insured by Allstate
 for the last 25 years and I have experience with 3 major
 claims. Once, while transiting Plum Gut with my son at the
 helm, doing about 8 kts with the big chute up, we hit an
 unseen, underground spire submerged 6' below the
 surface. 20k later Allstate covered all but the 500
 deductible and there was no increase in rate which has held
 at about 5-600 with an insured value of 60k + 6k for
 "accessories" for the duration of
 coverage.   About 10-15 years ago, the
 boat, during a storm, was blown off its jack
 stands when the cover caught one of the stands causing hull
 and rigging damage. some 20+k later, Allstate handled the
 claim speedily and without premium increase.
 The boat was
 totaled in Super
 Storm Sandy. After a 45K payout, Allstate
 
 gave me the boat along with
 the check. I used the $ to rebuild the boat and she is as
 good as or better now than new. There has been no real
 
 increase in premium. I can
 only praise
 Allstate in that they are 1/2
 the
 cost of
 Boat US, have
 been easy to work with and have stuck with me
 
 through  3 major
 incidents.
 Howard Paul, skipper Knot
 Again
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for
 supporting
 this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for
 supporting
 this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Insurance issues

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

no racing (I race on other people's boat, too much organizational work).

Leslie.


On Wed, 2/7/18, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance issues
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Matthew L. Wolford" 
 Date: Wednesday, February 7, 2018, 7:05 PM
 
 Wow.  Does that include
 racing?
 
 -Original
 Message- 
 From: Leslie Paal via
 CnC-List
 Sent: Wednesday, February 07, 2018
 9:02 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Leslie Paal
 Subject: Re:
 Stus-List Insurance issues
 
 well, my boat is only 32 feet, and been insured
 with Allstate without any 
 questions.  I
 did not have any claim so far (10+ years) and my last
 premium 
 was $180 (about) with good coverage
 (inc. full value, extras, spill, 3rd 
 party,
 etc.)
 
 Leslie
 Phoenix C&C32 1983
 
 
 On Tue, 2/6/18, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
 Subject: Re:
 Stus-List Insurance issues
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
 
 Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
 Date: Tuesday, February 6, 2018, 7:41 AM
 
 My Allstate agent said no
 way
 would Allstate touch a 35 foot boat.
 I had
 one claim with BOATUS and
 I could not be happier with the
 service.
 Basically "get it fixed, have the yard fax us
 the bill". We hit an underwater something,
 not sure
 what, and it bent the prop
 shaft.
 
 
 
 Joe Della
 Barba
 Coquina
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Howard and Skippy via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 9:46 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Howard and Skippy 
 Subject: Stus-List Insurance issues
 
 Insurance experience
 My C&C 35-3 has been insured by Allstate
 for the last 25 years and I
 have experience
 with 3 major
 claims. Once, while transiting Plum Gut
 with
 my son at the helm, doing about 8 kts with
 the big chute up, we hit
 an
 unseen,
 underground spire submerged 6'
 below the surface. 20k
 later
 Allstate covered all but the 500
 deductible and there was no increase in
 rate which has held at about 5-600 with an
 insured value of 60k + 6k for
 "accessories" for the duration of
 coverage.   About 10-15 years ago, the
 boat, during a storm, was blown off its jack
 stands when the cover
 caught
 one of the
 stands causing hull and rigging
 damage. some 20+k
 later, Allstate handled
 the claim speedily and
 without premium
 increase.
 The boat was
 totaled in Super Storm Sandy. After a 45K
 payout, Allstate
 
 gave me
 the boat along with the check. I
 used the $
 to rebuild the boat
 and she is
 as good as or better now than new. There has
 been no real
 
 increase in
 premium. I can only praise
 Allstate in that
 they are 1/2 the
 cost of
 Boat US, have been easy to work with and have
 stuck with me
 
 through  3
 major incidents.
 Howard Paul, skipper Knot
 Again
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for
 supporting
 this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
 the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution
 --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for
 supporting
 this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support
 the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution
 --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and 
 every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want
 to support the list - use 
 PayPal to send
 contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Insurance issues

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

well, my boat is only 32 feet, and been insured with Allstate without any 
questions.  I did not have any claim so far (10+ years) and my last premium was 
$180 (about) with good coverage (inc. full value, extras, spill, 3rd party, 
etc.)

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Tue, 2/6/18, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Insurance issues
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Della Barba, Joe" 
 Date: Tuesday, February 6, 2018, 7:41 AM
 
 My Allstate agent said no way
 would Allstate touch a 35 foot boat.
 I had
 one claim with BOATUS and I could not be happier with the
 service. Basically "get it fixed, have the yard fax us
 the bill". We hit an underwater something, not sure
 what, and it bent the prop shaft.
 
 
 
 Joe Della
 Barba
 Coquina
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Howard and Skippy via CnC-List
 Sent: Tuesday, February 06, 2018 9:46 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Howard and Skippy 
 Subject: Stus-List Insurance issues
 
 Insurance experience
 My C&C 35-3 has been insured by Allstate
 for the last 25 years and I 
 have experience
 with 3 major claims. Once, while transiting Plum Gut 
 with my son at the helm, doing about 8 kts with
 the big chute up, we hit 
 an unseen,
 underground spire submerged 6' below the surface. 20k
 later 
 Allstate covered all but the 500
 deductible and there was no increase in 
 rate which has held at about 5-600 with an
 insured value of 60k + 6k for 
 "accessories" for the duration of
 coverage.   About 10-15 years ago, the 
 boat, during a storm, was blown off its jack
 stands when the cover 
 caught one of the
 stands causing hull and rigging damage. some 20+k 
 later, Allstate handled the claim speedily and
 without premium increase. 
 The boat was
 totaled in Super Storm Sandy. After a 45K payout, Allstate
 
 gave me the boat along with the check. I
 used the $ to rebuild the boat 
 and she is
 as good as or better now than new. There has been no real
 
 increase in premium. I can only praise
 Allstate in that they are 1/2 the 
 cost of
 Boat US, have been easy to work with and have stuck with me
 
 through  3 major incidents.
 Howard Paul, skipper Knot Again
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

my first car was an MGA.  Almost the most fun car I had, despite the lack of 
power.

Leslie.


On Mon, 2/5/18, bushmark4--- via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: bushma...@aol.com
 Date: Monday, February 5, 2018, 8:35 AM
 
 
  A great car...I had a couple of
 Bug-Eye Spritesand an MGA; fun to drive but I hated
 those electric fuel pumps!
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard
 
 
 s/v/ Bushmark4: 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River;
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard N. Bush 
 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 
 502-584-7255
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 -Original
 Message-
 
 From: Randy Stafford via CnC-List
 
 
 To: cnc-list 
 
 Cc: Randy Stafford 
 
 Sent: Mon, Feb 5, 2018 11:32 am
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Insurance
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 A Triumph Spitfire.  My best
 buddy in high school had one of those, bright yellow.  We
 tried hard to roll it with high-speed cornering, but never
 succeeded.
 
 
 
 
 Cheers,
 
 Randy
 
 
 
 
 
 On Feb 5, 2018, at 9:22 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 My agent booked my policy through Hagerty as a
 “classic boat”.  I’m limited to 200 miles offshore
 and runs about $800 but it hasn’t gone up in 3 years.  By
 having both a classic boat and car policy, my Triumph
 Spitfire insures for $85 per year for full coverage.
 
 Chuck Gilchrest 
 S/V Half Magic
 
 1983 35 LF
 
 Padanaram MA
 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 
 
 On Feb 5, 2018, at 11:06 AM, Jim Giffing via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sadly American Family does not seem to cover the
 Chesapeake. :(
 
 
 
 
 Jim
 
 
 S/V Strong Tower
 
 
 1977 C&C 29 MK 1
 
 
 North East, MD
 
 
 
 
 
 On Sun, Feb 4,
 2018 at 12:00 PM,  
 wrote:
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list
 submissions to
 
 
         cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
 
 
         http://cnc-list.com/mailman/
 listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body
 'help' to
 
 
         cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
 
 
         cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more
 specific
 
 
 than "Re: Contents of CnC-List digest..."
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Today's Topics:
 
 
 
 
 
    1. Re:  insurance (Larry)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 --
 -- --
 
 
 
 
 
 Message: 1
 
 
 Date: Sun, 4 Feb 2018 08:51:25 -0800
 
 
 From: "Larry" 
 
 
 To: 
 
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List insurance
 
 
 Message-ID: <003a01d39dd8$65bbce60$ 31336b20$@comcast.net>
 
 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
 
 
 
 
 
 I am super impressed with their rates and service.
 
 
 
 
 
 My boat was hit at the dock three days after I took
 delivery, Thank god for surveys, the owner of the boat
 attempted to claim they did not do the damage. The Survey
 and witness saved the day. I paid to have the boat repaired
 immediately (right at the water line) and American Family
 wrote me a check and then had the other persons insurance
 for their cost. Zero effect on my coverage or rates.
 
 
 
 
 
 Like I said: just under 500 a year, 500 dollar deductible
 and one million coverage in liability damages.
 
 
 
 
 
 However they did not want to ensure my ZX14R sport bike. But
 not too many do.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
 list.com] On Behalf Of Jim Reinardy via CnC-List
 
 
 Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2018 8:30 AM
 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 
 Cc: Jim Reinardy
 
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List insurance
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Larry,
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 American Family is based here in Wisconsin and I can second
 your opinion.  I have had all of my insurance with them,
 including the boat for nearly 30 years.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Jim Reinardy
 
 
 
 
 
 C&C 30-2 ?Firewater?
 
 
 
 
 
 Milwaukee, WI
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Get Outlook for iOS 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Sun, Feb 4, 2018 at 9:55 AM -0600, "Larry via
 CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 When I purchased my boat I did a lot of shopping around.
 
 
 
 
 
 I went with American Family Insurance. Fantastic company. If
 I could have them for all my insurance needs, I would. But I
 have had my home and auto with Geico for over 40 years and
 my discounts cannot be beat.
 
 
 
 
 
 My boat insurance is through American and is 485 a year and
 on 80k value boat, with one million on damages. US Boat,
 Geico and the rest were half again if not double.
 
 
 
 
 
 Just my 2 cents
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
 list.com] On Behalf Of Joel Aronson via CnC-List
 
 
 Sent: Sunday, February 4, 2018 7:41 AM
 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 
 Cc: Joel Aronson
 
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List insurance
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Seaworthy is owned by Warren Buffet. They are the carrier
 for BoatU

Re: Stus-List Question: Radar reflector vs. active radar

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

the radar antenna is a good sized metal construction.  It will reflect.  Also, 
since it is tuned to the same (about) frequencies, it can passively re-radiate 
some of the signal.

Leslie.


On Fri, 2/2/18, Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Question: Radar reflector vs. active radar
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Frederick G Street" 
 Date: Friday, February 2, 2018, 10:22 AM
 
 That’s one
 of the more weird things I’ve heard… radars are
 specifically designed to try to filter out any signals not
 their own.
 Other
 boats might have something like the CARD system aboard to
 pick up other vessels’ radar:
 http://nordkyndesign.com/collision-avoidance-at-sea-ais-alarm-project/
 But
 those systems haven’t been available new for a decade.
  The other type of device that you could have on your
 vessel to help other radar-equipped vessels see you better
 would be an active radar target augmentation system like the
 Echo-Max:
 https://www.echomax.co.uk/radar-target-enhancers-x-band-dual-band.html
 Or a
 Search and Rescue Transponder (SART):
 http://www.offshoreblue.com/safety/sart.php
 
 — Fred
 
 
 Fred Street
 -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C
 Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
 WI   :^(
 
 
 On Feb 2, 2018, at
 11:42 AM, Damian Greene via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Here's a question for your collective
 wisdom: 
 We regularly have fog here in
 Maine, and my normal practice is to hoist a Davis emergency
 radar reflector in the shrouds (so I hopefully will not get
 run over by a lobster boat). So this year I decided to get
 the yard to mount an EchoMax reflector on the mast, and be
 better prepared.
 However, reviewing my
 work-list with the yard maintenance manager yesterday, he
 asked why I was doing this, as I have radar, and the signal
 from my radome would light up on other boats' radar
 better than a reflector.
 That's something I've
 never heard before, so I told him I would investigate and
 get back on that. Frankly, this does not make a lot of sense
 - why would people bother with radar reflectors - but he has
 more than 20 years' experience with Hinckley and
 others.
 I'd like a definitive answer (Fred?) to resolve
 this.
 
 Thanks,
 Damian Greene
 ex C&C 34 Ghostnow Sabre 38 FreefallBass Harbor,
 Maine
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Halyard knots (was: Masthead sheaves C&C 37+)

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

In USAR training (including confined space) we only used the Figure8 knot on 
'life' lines.  Everybody knew how to tie and untie, so there were no surprises.

Leslie
JPL USAR Team (retired)


On Fri, 2/2/18, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Halyard knots (was: Masthead sheaves C&C 37+)
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Marek Dziedzic" 
 Date: Friday, February 2, 2018, 6:33 AM
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 Can’t speak for the confined space rescuers, but the
 climbers switched from the bowline to the figure eight,
 mainly, because the bowline CAN untie by itself under
 certain situations.
 
  
 Generally, the bowline is frowned upon in the life
 safety situations.
  
 However, when I was learning to climb (a very long time
 ago), I was told that the bowline requires a second knot ( a
 hitch) after it. It was there to prevent it from
 unraveling.
  
 Marek
 
 
  
 
 From: Josh Muckley via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Thursday, February 1, 2018 23:03
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Josh Muckley 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C&C
 37+
 
 
  
 
 
 I didn't spend much time comparing resources and
 references so take it for what it's worth but the
 website below did some tests and found the bowline reduced
 strength by ~60% where as the double fish knot broke at
 ~75%.  I'm not sure exactly what a double
  fish knot is compared to any of the other knots. 
 Interestingly I was always taught that climers and confined
 space rescuer use a figue eight (reweave or on a bite)
 instead of a bowline because of its retained strength. 
 It's a interesting read at least.
  
 http://caves.org/section/vertical/nh/50/knotrope-hold.html
  
 Josh
 
 
 
 
 On Thu, Feb 1, 2018, 10:49 PM Rick Brass via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 I couldn’t help but
 chuckle because I’ve been tying the Halyard Hitch,
 Jeanneau Variant since I was about 12.. Except what I’ve
 always used it for is to tie
  the monofilament leader onto a fly when fly casting. The
 knot (bend actually) that I learned takes two passes through
 the eye of the hook and then is tied like the Jeanneau bend.
 And when I learned it from my Grandfather it was called a
 fisherman’s bend.
  
 And, BTW, one of the
 reasons the bowline is the most basic knot taught in the US
 Power Squadron and CG Auxilliary basic seamanship classes is
 – according to
  the course material – that it retains around 90% of the
 strength of the line you are using and is the highest among
 the common knots and bends.
  
 Rick
 Brass
 Washington,
 NC
  
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Patrick Davin via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Thursday, February 1, 2018 6:02 PM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Patrick Davin 
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Masthead sheaves C&C
 37+
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 I couldn't help but chuckle
 that Jeanneau owners are claiming to have invented / named
 this knot.  It's just the halyard hitch with a
 different finish. So perhaps it should be called halyard
 hitch, Jeanneau
  variant?
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --  
 
 https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Merry Christmas to all.  Our hummingbirds are also chilly, going through a lot 
of 'nectar'.  They have consumed 25 lbs of sugar since beginning of Oct.

Sailing related: we had great sailing last Wednesday with my 92 year old 
friend, double handed.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32
Alamitos Bay CA.

On Thu, 12/21/17, Jim Watts via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Holiday wishes
 To: "1 CnC List" 
 Cc: "Jim Watts" 
 Date: Thursday, December 21, 2017, 9:07 PM
 
 Our
 hummingbirds are chilly, but no snow. Merry Christmas to
 y'all. 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C&C 35 Mk
 III
 Victoria, BC
 
 
 On 21
 December 2017 at 16:01, Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Thanks Dennis!  Right back at you! 
 I'm rather envious of you
 currently! 
 Happy holidays guys!  Thanks
 for another year of great advice! 
 All the
 best! Danny
 
 
 Sent from my T-Mobile
 4G LTE Device
  Original
 message From: "Dennis C. via
 CnC-List" 
 Date: 12/21/17  5:28 PM  (GMT-05:00)
 To: CnClist 
 Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Subject: Stus-List Holiday wishes 
 From down here on
 "de bayou" we wish all a safe and happy holiday
 season.
 Joyeaux
 Noel!
 Let it
 sneaux!
 
 Dennis C.touche' 35-1
 #83Mandeville, LA
 
 
 __
 _
 
 
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your
 contributions.  Each and every one is greatly
 appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal
 to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/
 stumurray
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pfd

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Rick,

the issue is that, according to the zipper documentation, you should NOT use 
the car to open the zipper but to 'rip' it open from the yellow area.  After 
inspecting the bobbin you need to open the full length of the zipper so you can 
now close it.

I plan to use the car to open enough to check on the bobbin

Leslie.


On Wed, 11/15/17, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Pfd
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Rick Brass" 
 Date: Wednesday, November 15, 2017, 7:40 PM
 
 The maintenance record on the two
 auto inflate PFDs I bought show they were made in October,
 2015. Is it possible the bobbins in yours are marked with a
 2015 manufacturing date and not an expiration date?
 The maintenance for the PFDs calls for visual
 inspection of the green ring in the inflator dome and of the
 green/red tab on the manual trigger, but I don't recall
 an expiration date or a recommended replacement interval on
 the bobbins.
 
 On mine, the
 slider of the zipper IS on the end over the inflation
 mechanism when the zipper is closed. And the zipper is a big
 improvement over the Velcro strips on the Sospenders and
 West Marine PFDs I've bought previously.
 
 Rick Brass
 Washington, NC
 
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Leslie Paal via CnC-List
 Sent:
 Monday, November 13, 2017 8:02 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Leslie Paal 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Pfd
 
 I got two of these, but not impressed.  The
 design (or manufacturing) has a couple issues.
 - the "rip" zipper seems to me
 installed backward.  To check the bobbin you have to undo
 the whole zipper because the slider is on the wrong end.
 - the manual activation cord has a very good
 chance to get caught on things and surprise the wearer.  My
 other west have the activator protected from accidental
 pull.
 
 I suppose you get
 what you pay for.  I'm still think it was an OK buy,
 just not so grand.
 
 Leslie.
 and yes the bobbins
 have 2015 date.
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pfd

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

the documentation with the PDF also state 3 years service life for "us".

Leslie.


On Thu, 11/16/17, Michael Brannon via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Pfd
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Michael Brannon" 
 Date: Thursday, November 16, 2017, 5:38 AM
 
 One of my
 auto inflate PFDs went off by itself years ago.   When I
 looked at the bobbin it was way past its service life, I was
 only looking to see if the green showed on the outside tab
 and was not checking the date on the bobbin.  Halkey
 Roberts website ( 
http://www.halkeyroberts.com/userfiles/files/Inflation%20IFUs/IFU_V80040_B%20Rev%20A.pdf
 )
 says the bobbins have a shelf life of 3 years and a service
 life of 3 years for recreational use.  For something
 approaching the end of its shelf life installed on a PFD
 that is new old stock and not knowing the conditions in
 which it was stored I think the bobbin is close to the end
 of its service life.  My annual maintenance is to verify
 that the bobbin is within its service life and blow up the
 PFD to see that it holds for 24 hours.  On a monthly basis
 I check that the tab is green but if it is red, you will
 know because the life jacket will have inflated.   
 I’m
 a retired Naval Officer so I may go a bit overboard on the
 PFD maintenance but I feel better by going to this extreme.
  
 
 Sail
 Safe, 
 Mike
 BrannonVirginia Lee,
 93295C&C 36
 CBVirginia Beach, Va
 
 
 On Nov 15, 2017, at 10:40 PM, Rick
 Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 The
 maintenance record on the two auto inflate PFDs I bought
 show they were made in October, 2015. Is it possible the
 bobbins in yours are marked with a 2015 manufacturing date
 and not an expiration date?
 The maintenance for the PFDs calls for
 visual inspection of the green ring in the inflator dome and
 of the green/red tab on the manual trigger, but I don't
 recall an expiration date or a recommended replacement
 interval on the bobbins.
 
 On mine, the slider of the zipper IS
 on the end over the inflation mechanism when the zipper is
 closed. And the zipper is a big improvement over the Velcro
 strips on the Sospenders and West Marine PFDs I've
 bought previously.
 
 Rick Brass
 Washington, NC
 
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Leslie Paal via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, November 13, 2017 8:02
 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Leslie Paal 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List
 Pfd
 
 I got two of these, but not impressed.
  The design (or manufacturing) has a couple issues.
 - the "rip"
 zipper seems to me installed backward.  To check the bobbin
 you have to undo the whole zipper because the slider is on
 the wrong end.
 - the
 manual activation cord has a very good chance to get caught
 on things and surprise the wearer.  My other west have the
 activator protected from accidental pull.
 
 I suppose you get what you pay for.
  I'm still think it was an OK buy, just not so
 grand.
 
 Leslie.
 and yes the bobbins have 2015 date.
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this
 list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting
 this list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Pfd

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I got two of these, but not impressed.  The design (or manufacturing) has a 
couple issues.
- the "rip" zipper seems to me installed backward.  To check the bobbin you 
have to undo the whole zipper because the slider is on the wrong end.
- the manual activation cord has a very good chance to get caught on things and 
surprise the wearer.  My other west have the activator protected from 
accidental pull.

I suppose you get what you pay for.  I'm still think it was an OK buy, just not 
so grand.

Leslie.
and yes the bobbins have 2015 date.


On Fri, 11/10/17, Mike Brannon via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Pfd
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Mike Brannon" 
 Date: Friday, November 10, 2017, 9:57 AM
 
 If you ordered these PFDs be sure to check
 the bobbins.   Mine arrived with bobbins that expired
 in 2015.
 
 Mike
 Virginia LEE 93295
 Virginia Beach, VA
 
 Sent from my iPad Mini
 
 > On Nov 2, 2017, at 06:58, Lisle
 Kingery, PhD via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 > 
 > You need to use the coupon code, I
 did and it worked, thanks Joel!!
 > 
 > Lisle
 >
 ___
 > 
 > The bills have started coming in
 for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will
 be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
 small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 > 
 > All contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 
 ___
 
 Thanks everyone for supporting this
 list with your contributions.  Each and every one is
 greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list -
 use PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

correct, but the actual boat is 45 feet.  Someone wanted to cheat on mooring 
fees and taxes



On Tue, 10/31/17, Bill Bina - gmail via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Lost at sea...um , yeah
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Bill Bina - gmail" 
 Date: Tuesday, October 31, 2017, 6:45 AM
 
 
 According to the
 boat's
   documentation it is a 37 footer, not a 50 footer.
 :-)
 
 
 Bill
 Bina
 
 
 
 
 On 10/31/2017 9:37 AM,
 Dennis C. via
   CnC-List wrote:
 
 
 
   
 At one point they were 2 miles off Wake Island
 and in
   contact with the island but couldn't sail
 around to the harbor
   entrance.
   
 
   
   Dennis C.
   
 
   
 
 On Oct 31,
 2017 8:12 AM, "Chuck
   Gilchrest via CnC-List" 
   wrote:
 
   Today’s
 reveal was that the women had an EPIRB that
 they failed
 to use.
 
 One of the sailors Jennifer “Fer” Appel,
 had an earlier
 career as an Amateur Motorcycle Roadracer. 
 In her
 search for sponsorship she routinely
 embellished her
 accomplishments according to several of my
 friends who
 were involved in the sport.
 
 Perhaps a vivid imagination can be fueled by
 5 months at
 sea, but the more I learn of their
 “ordeal”, the more
 skeptical I become.
 
 And to top it off, she’s claiming the
 rescue ship caused
 irreparable damage to her vessel by
 attempting to tow
 it.  She is actually blaming their
 rescuers!
 
 Amazing!
 
 Chuck Gilchrest
 
   
 
   
 
   
   
 
   
   
 
   ___
 
 The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have
 gone up again.  October will be our fund raising month. 
 Please consider sending a small contribution to help keep
 this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution --   
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
 
   ___
 
 The bills have started coming
 in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will
 be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to
 send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

Thanks everyone for supporting this list with your contributions.  Each and 
every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

Re: Stus-List News story

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

4 knots in 30 days is 2880 nmiles.  Could reach civilization from most places 
in the Pacific

Reliance on electronics only will leave you in deep

Leslie


On Fri, 10/27/17, David Knecht via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List News story
 To: "CnC CnC discussion list" 
 Cc: "David Knecht" 
 Date: Friday, October 27, 2017, 2:32 PM
 
 Yes, but the
 report in the UK Mail says that they had a mast problem, and
 could sail at 4-5 knots. I don’t see why that is a
 problem.  The real question is now they got “lost”.
  Did they have no navigational capability?  No solar or
 wind power?  Also, they lost their cell phone overboard the
 first day.  What use is a cell phone in the Pacific Ocean?
  Lots more to hear on this one.  Dave
 
 Aries1990
 C&C 34+New
 London, CT
 
 
 
 
 On Oct 27, 2017, at 6:51 AM, Danny
 Haughey via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  According to the
 morning news, part of their rigging broke and they oatmeal,
 pasta and rice.  
 Danny
 
 
 Sent from my T-Mobile
 4G LTE Device
  Original message
 From: Brad Crawford
 via CnC-List 
 Date: 10/26/17  10:05 PM 
 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Brad Crawford 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List News
 story 
 What happened to
 sailing?
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 > On Oct 26, 2017, at 4:01 PM, John
 Pennie via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 > 
 > Ok, wtf? Story on
 news tonight about a sailboat that was stranded in the
 Pacific for 5months after their engine broke down on an
 otherwise functional boat.  Apparently the crew survived as
 they had a water maker and a year’s supply of oatmeal. 
 Something not add up here?  And who really has a 1 year
 supply of oatmeal for two people and a dog? 
 > 
 > Gotta be more coming on this
 one...
 > 
 > John
 > 
 > 
 > Sent from my iPad
 >
 ___
 > 
 > The bills have started coming in
 for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be
 our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to
 send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 > 
 > All contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 
 ___
 
 The bills have started coming in for
 the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be our
 fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to
 send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 ___
 
 The bills have started coming in for
 the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be our
 fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to
 send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 ___
 
 The bills have started coming
 in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will
 be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small
 contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to
 send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List My email to Rod

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

got your message and his two replies with addresses.

Leslie


On Sun, 10/22/17, Stu via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List My email to Rod
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Stu" 
 Date: Sunday, October 22, 2017, 5:10 PM
 
 Yes I sent an email to the list specifically
 for Rod.  His email address
 got bounced when I tried an personal
 email.  So I thought I would try it
 this way.
 
 Sorry if you thought we gybed and were
 going the wrong way.
 
 Stu
 
 
 ___
 
 The bills have started coming in for
 the year 2018 and have gone up again.  October will be
 our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a
 small contribution to help keep this list running.  Use
 PayPal to send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

The bills have started coming in for the year 2018 and have gone up again.  
October will be our fund raising month.  Please consider sending a small 
contribution to help keep this list running.  Use PayPal to send contribution 
--   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged in to shore power

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

that is about the same I get, maybe a little more.

Leslie
Phoenix
C&C32 1983
Alamitos Bay Marina.


On Mon, 9/25/17, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List How long do your zincs last (saltwater, on a dock, plugged 
in to shore power
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Bruce Whitmore" 
 Date: Monday, September 25, 2017, 7:45 AM
 
 Hello
 all,
 I just wanted to check in with  you
 folks.  For those of you who are in saltwater, on a
 dock, and plugged into shore power, how long would you
 expect to see your shaft zinc last?  I get a regular
 report from our diver, who, after about 6 months, indicated
 that the zinc is down to about 70% of new.
 Thanks for the input, Bruce
 Whitmore
 
 (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
 bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Dennis,

there is no accurate way to convert power (V*I) to lumens.  Basically the 
temperature of the filament will drive the lumens value.

Leslie.


On Mon, 9/4/17, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List LED bulb lumen equivalents
 To: "CnClist" 
 Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Date: Monday, September 4, 2017, 9:19 AM
 
 I replaced the bulb
 in Touche's binnacle compass this weekend.  Really
 wanted to look at an LED bulb but got hung up on the
 brightness.  I just replaced it in kind from an auto parts
 store.
 The original bulb was a trade number 1891, 3.4W,
 12 VDC mini-bayonet (BA9S) base.  It's not difficult to
 find the correct base and height but determining the
 brightness is confusing.  I don't need a compass light
 that can be seen by the International Space
 Station.
 The new specification for LED bulbs is in
 lumens.  I did some quick research on the Web but
 couldn't find a reliable conversion for watts 12 VDC to
 lumens.  Found some sites for 120 VAC but not 12
 VDC.
 So, how many lumens is a 3.4 watt 12 VDC
 bulb?
 Has anybody found a decent website for converting
 watts 12 VDC to lumens?
 Dennis C.Touche' 35-1
 #83Mandeville,
 LA___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

traveling around in Europe, no sail boat rides so far

Leslie.


On Fri, 9/1/17, Dave Godwin via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Whereabouts???
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Dave Godwin" 
 Date: Friday, September 1, 2017, 2:24 PM
 
 Sitting
 in my shed with a beer looking at the hundreds of boat parts
 strewn about?  :-)
 Dave
 
 Sent from my
 iPad
 %<-

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 35 - 3

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I have shipped a C&C25 from Marblehead to San Diego, the cost was much less 
than the potential loss on the sale/purchase.  (I also had a tight schedule 
between jobs.)

Leslie.


On Tue, 8/1/17, Howard and Skippy via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 35 - 3
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Howard and Skippy" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 1, 2017, 6:20 PM
 
 Hello All,
 I have owned Knot Again, a 35-3 for
 about 25 years. I have raced and 
 cruised with her extensively. She is
 one of the winning-est boats in the 
 Middle Atlantic states. 18 trophies in
 the Around Long Island Regatta, 
 multiple club championships. Multiple
 NJ offshore racing conference 
 firsts (seconds and thirds). Third in
 C&C worlds. This summer, in two 
 major regattas, in 10 races, 9 1sts and
 1 2nd (by 5 seconds!). A safe, 
 dependable wonderful sailing vessel. I
 am moving to California and it is 
 too expensive to ship it, so it is for
 sale.IMHO, one of the nicest 35-3 
 available. Needs nothing and ready to
 sail away. Still actively being 
 used. Extensive upgrades. Please email
 for pictures and complete info.
 Howard Paul, Skipper Knot Again
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous
 donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution
 to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I have raced on a boat with Harken windward-sheeting traveler.  It was PITA in 
light winds.

Leslie.


On Wed, 7/12/17, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs others
 To: "Dennis C. via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "Marek Dziedzic" 
 Date: Wednesday, July 12, 2017, 7:32 PM
 
 
 #yiv5584492506 #yiv5584492506 --
  
  _filtered #yiv5584492506 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv5584492506 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
 #yiv5584492506  
 #yiv5584492506 p.yiv5584492506MsoNormal, #yiv5584492506
 li.yiv5584492506MsoNormal, #yiv5584492506
 div.yiv5584492506MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:11.0pt;}
 #yiv5584492506 a:link, #yiv5584492506
 span.yiv5584492506MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv5584492506 a:visited, #yiv5584492506
 span.yiv5584492506MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:#954F72;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv5584492506 .yiv5584492506MsoChpDefault
{}
  _filtered #yiv5584492506 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv5584492506 div.yiv5584492506WordSection1
{}
 #yiv5584492506 
 If you decide on Harken,
 go for the “windward sheeting” traveler car. As they say
 in their ads, once you raced with one, you would never go
 back.
    
 If you are cost conscious,
 go for Garhauer; there is hardly better value (not to
 mention that they usually bend over backwards to accommodate
 your needs).
    
 Marek 
    
 Sent from 
 Mail for Windows 10
    
 
 From: Dennis C. via
 CnC-List
 
 Sent: Wednesday, July 12, 2017 18:55
 
 To: CnClist
 
 Cc: Dennis C.
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List traveller track/cars Harken vs
 others
 
    
 
 
 When looking at "ball bearing"
 traveler and genoa car systems (as opposed to pin stop or
 slide track), design is a factor.  While some use T-track,
 others use X-track.  Some use recirculating ball bearings,
 others use wheels.
 
 
 
 The design has a LOT to do with how the system handles
 loads.  I think that's why Harken is so well
 regarded.  While other brands may be good, my opinion is
 Harken's design handles the loads better, and therefore
 moves easier than others.  Just my opinion. 
  Whether the ease of movement is worth the price premium,
 well, that's your choice.
 
 
 
 All I'm saying is look closely at the design. 
 Find and ask owners of different systems.  Hopefully, one
 can find owners who have or have had different brands and
 systems so you get an apples to apples comparison.
 
 
 
 For instance, Touche's Harken traveler seems to
 move easier than Touche's Lewmar genoa cars.  Just
 saying.
 
 
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Wed, Jul 12, 2017
 at 7:27 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 It is good to remember when
 discussing this that Harken track is measured in millimeters
 rather than inches (usually 22mm, 27mm, 32mm).  Other cars
 do not fit
  on Harken track properly and likely vice
 versa.
  
 I did contact Garhaur about new
 genoa lead cars for Persistence on the existing track (22mm
 small boat track 3.6m in length).  They said they could not
 do it
  (would not?).  Would have had to be
 custom.
  
 In the end I came across a good
 deal on the mid range genoa cars and track ends (27mm) and
 had to purchase separately the aft track ends and new tracks
 (the
  ones that came with my new gear were only 1m long and I
 needed 3.6m).  Replaced tracks (PITA) and cars with the new
 Harken gear and is more suited to the size and loads on
 Persistence.  Sold the old tracks and cars to a friend who
 is using on his C&C 30.
  
 This brings to mind that I have
 two 1 meter Harken low beam non captive ball tracks 27mm
 midrange and matching backing plates.  These are new and
 have never
  been installed on a boat but are circa
 2009.
  
 Mike
 Persistence
 Halifax,
 NS
 http://users.eastlink.ca/~
 mhoyt
  
  
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
 list.com]
 On Behalf Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Tuesday, July 11, 2017 6:00 PM
 
 To: CnClist
 
 Cc: Dennis C.
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler for C&C 35 Mk
 II
  
 
 Sean,
 
  
 
 
 I have Lewmar Ocean 1 ball
 bearing genoa cars and a Harken traveler.  In my opinion,
 the Harken is superior.  Harken does make a high beam
 variable spacing traveler track (Harken R32HB) which may fit
 your application.  Harken tends to be
  a "bit" more pricey, however.  Here's a link
 to Touche's traveler setup:
 
 
  
 
 
 https://drive.google.com/open?
 id=0B_ sb5TfIENvsX0dGcEV2Mm1QNUE
 
 
  
 
 
 It has a 4:1 endless
 traveler sheet which passes through bulkhead mounted swivel
 cam cleats.  It can be operated easily from forward or aft
 of the traveler.
 
 
  
 
 
 While I don't have
 experience with Garhauer travelers, many on the list speak
 highly of them.  I have other Garhauer items on my boat and
 am positively impressed with them.  I have also had
 Garhauer make custom items for both my 

Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

- if the amp is expecting 4 ohms load it will not drive the 8 ohms load to full 
volume.
- the 30+ year old speaker cones maybe disintegrating at the outer edge 
(suspension).  That will give you 'buzzy' sound.

Leslie.



On Mon, 7/3/17, Dave via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 33-2 music and speakers
 To: "Sylvain Laplante" 
 Cc: syerd...@gmail.com, cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, July 3, 2017, 5:10 AM
 
 Merci
 sylvain, C'est possible, and I will check for an
 impedance mismatch, but perhaps  I should have been
 clearer.    The setup works ok, I just want better sound.
   The bass is weak and the amp (I did not want complexity
 of a standalone amp) is  probably underpowered vs the
 efficiency of the speakers, and the aging speakers
 themselves may be suspect.  I don't want to
 chop holes in the boat for a mall-thumping adolescent mating
 call, I just want as close to 'audiophile' as I can
 get within the existing footprint/compromises, and am
 wondering mostly about the speakers listers may have
 discovered.
 Dave.
 
 Sent from my iPad
 On Jul 3,
 2017, at 7:54 AM, Sylvain Laplante 
 wrote:
 
 Maybe the speakers are
 8 ohms and the radio output is 4 ohms ( or vice-versa)
 ?Sylvain C&C 27
 
 Envoyé de mon iPhone
 Le 3 juil. 2017 à 07:31, Dave S via CnC-List
 
 a écrit :
 
 Sorry bout the accidental early send...
 So, I did replace Windstar's
 1980's Blaupunkt car cassette player that came with
 Windstar with a gimmicky but functional Pioneer unit, that
 has a fancy lightshow, a remote and many features that I
 will probably never use.  (the bluetooth input is great)  
 I did not even look at the 80's vintage bracket mounted
 micro bookshelf speakers.   
 The sound quality overall is pretty
 poor and I suspect that the speakers are tired, and may be
 suffering from age.  
 Any suggestions as to efficient,
 compact speakers that can be bracket mounted in a
 boat?
 Thanks
 all.
 Dave
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 This list
 is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
 you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please
 go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List furling line

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

yes,  Leslie
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Mon, 5/29/17, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List furling line
 To: "CnClist" 
 Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Date: Monday, May 29, 2017, 6:48 PM
 
 How many of you have a
 ratcheting block on your furling line?
 Dennis C.
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 12V Step-Down Transformers

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

you are looking for "DC to DC converters" (transformers for AC).  Not all 
copiers are Xerox

Leslie.


On Fri, 5/5/17, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 12V Step-Down Transformers
 To: "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
 Cc: "Edd Schillay" 
 Date: Friday, May 5, 2017, 12:45 PM
 
 Listers,
 I’m looking to power some
 battery-operated items off the boat’s power and looking
 for a good source of step-down transformers to go from 12V
 to 4.5, 6, 3, 9, etc. DC. Can anyone recommend a good
 source? 
 
 
 All the
 best,
 Edd
 
 Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-BCity Island,
 NY Starship Enterprise's
 Captain's Log
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List DQOTD - What is a Arcotronic 50 uf Capacitor for?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

actually that is way too big for a galvanic isolator.  But it is about the 
correct value for a ferro-resonant battery charger; notice the AC rating.  The 
charger uses a synchronous loop (L & C, tuned to 60Hz) to keep the supply 
voltage fairly constant.  The charger part just uses a diode bridge, no 
regulation.

I'm afraid it will not make your boat sail faster, actually those weigh a ton 
so probably want to go with the modern semiconductor based version.  ;-)

Leslie.


On Thu, 5/4/17, svpegasus38 via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List DQOTD - What is a Arcotronic 50 uf Capacitor for?
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "svpegasus38" 
 Date: Thursday, May 4, 2017, 1:08 PM
 
 Couldn't
 agree more, Lee. 
 
 
 Sent from my T-Mobile
 4G LTE DeviceDoug
 Mountjoy POYC Pegasus Lf38 
  Original
 message From: Lee Youngblood via CnC-List
  Date: 5/4/17  13:02
  (GMT-08:00) To: CnC-List
  Cc: Lee Youngblood
  Subject: Re:
 Stus-List DQOTD - What is a Arcotronic 50 uf Capacitor for?
 
 Hi All,
 Back
 on earth, gear heads who read practical science, could
 engineer all kinds of things themselves.  I’m guessing a
 galvanic isolator was planned, and like many projects never
 quiet finished.  Then the lawyers out numbered the
 engineers, lots of paper work ensued, and surveyors wanted
 monitors or some kind of fail-safe device to save us all.
  Occasionally the surveyors would tell stories of kids and
 moms electrocuted just off the boat, usually in fresh water.
  So now the boats are too expensive for mortals to work on
 the boat, and they sit in harbors while, the owners work to
 pay for the marketing. . . 
 Clearly time for me to get off the
 dock. . .
 LeeBlinded in Seattle
 
 
 
 
 On May 4, 2017, at
 12:49 00PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Chuck,
 Hilarious — and kudos to anyone who
 understands the oscillation overthruster reference — cause
 no matter where you go, there you are. 
 No
 flux capacitors on my boat — we go back in time by
 engaging the warp drive and slingshotting around the
 sun. 
 Seriously — we do have a warp core
 on board: https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15162917/ENTERPRISE/WarpCore.mov 
 (Ok
 — it’s a Bluetooth speaker)
 
 
 
 All the
 best,
 Edd
 
 Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-BCity Island,
 NY Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
 On May 4, 2017, at
 3:27 PM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 I
 think Edd Schillay probably has several flux capacitors on
 board the Starship Enterprise along with a set of spare
 di-lithium crystals.  Now if I can only find somebody
 selling an oscillation overthruster, then I can take Half
 Magic to the 8th Dimension
 although I probably need to go to New Jersey to find
 one..Ok..enough!  I’m done with the silly sci-fi
 references.  Back to toe rail varnishing.. (must be the
 fumes…sigh..)Chuck GilchrestS/V Half Magic1983 Landfall 35Padanaram, MA From: 
CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
 Russell via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday,
 May 4, 2017 5:23 AM
 To: C&C
 List 
 Cc: Gary
 Russell 
 Subject: Re:
 Stus-List DQOTD - What is a Arcotronic 50 uf Capacitor
 for?
  Nah!  It's a flux capacitor and it's
 used for time travel.  It allows you to sail your boat
 "Back to the Future".
  GaryS/V Kaylarah'90 C&C 37+East Greenwich, RI, USA
 ~~~_/)~~
  On
 Wed, May 3, 2017 at 9:33 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
 
 wrote:That size cap has to be for an inverter or
 maybe an older analog radar.
  Josh MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C 37+Solomons, MD 
  On
 May 3, 2017 9:00 PM, "Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List"
 
 wrote:OK, in the box of parts left behind by the
 prior owner of our 1994 C&C 37/40+ are two Arcotronics
 C.87.0EF3 50uf capacitors.  You can see a picture of them
 here:  1pcs -
 ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz) 500V(180/15) Capacitor -
 C.87.0EE3 MKP | eBay
 And,
 they're not exactly cheap, even on Ebay.  
 
 What are
 these things for?  
 
  Thanks in advance!
  Bruce 
  
  $ 35.0 1pcs - ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz)
 500V(180/15) Capacitor - C.87.0EE...1pcs -
 ARCOTRONICS 50uF /50µF 450V(50Hz) 500V(180/15) Capacitor -
 C.87.0EE3 MKP
  
   Bruce
 Whitmore
 
 (847)
 404-5092 (mobile)
 bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous
 donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution
 to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous
 donations of our members. If you wish to make a contribution
 to offset our costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
  ___
 
 This
 list is supported by the generous donations of our members.
 If you wish to make a contribution to offset our cost

Re: Stus-List Sail advice for C&Cs in general

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Richard,

my go to sail is a 135 tape-drive.  Works very well, no observable loss of 
speed unless quite light wind.  Then a deck sweeping 150 is better, but seldom 
needed.  I no longer race

As far as headsail only, I regularly sail that way when the true wind is 8 knot 
or so.  The tacking angles are a bit wider but very relaxed sailing.  One of 
the most fun outing was with the then new 135, and small craft warning.  Genoa 
only, sailed up and down with some thrilling surfing off the wind.

Try it., it works (at least on a 32. :-) )

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Mon, 5/1/17, bushmark4--- via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for C&Cs in general
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: bushma...@aol.com
 Date: Monday, May 1, 2017, 11:58 AM
 
 
 Alan, I am glad to hear you do
 well with the 105; I have always heard that our boats get
 their power from the headsail, and was thus reluctant to go
 below a 130; however, if I understand your experience, you
 do as well with a smaller headsail as with a larger one.
    I notice most, if not all of the newer designs have
 very large mains with oversize roach area...have you had to
 do anything to the main?
 
 Another area I have wondered about is if he boat could be
 sailed with the headsail only?  Would you be able to
 develop enough power, and able to steer the boat easily with
 a small headsail?
 
 
 
  thanks
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard
 
 
 
 s/v Bushmark4; 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596;
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard N. Bush 
 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 
 502-584-7255
 
 
  
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 -Original
 Message-
 
 From: ALAN BERGEN via CnC-List
 
 
 To: C&C 
 
 Cc: ALAN BERGEN 
 
 Sent: Mon, May 1, 2017 2:33 pm
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Sail advice for 35
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Joe:
 
 
 
 
 When I first got my boat, I raced with a 155.  It kept
 back-winding the main, so I tried using a 135  with better
 results.  I gained six seconds in handicap, and there was
 no noticeable reduction in speed.  Then I tried racing with
 a 105.  I gained another three seconds; I sail just as
 fast, and I point five degrees higher.  In fact, I point
 higher than everyone else in my fleet, and I get to the
 windward mark sooner than the rest of the fleet.  The crew
 can tack faster, and in light air, the sail won't flap
 around like larger sails will.
 
 
 
 
 Alan Bergen
 
 
 35 Mk III Thirsty
 
 
 Rose City YC
 
 
 Portland, OR
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C&C 37/40+

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I came across a sealant, for aluminum to stucco.  It meant to deal with 
'significant' movements.  I used to (temporarily) seal the head hatch, still 
holding up well after 2 years.  It was readily available at Home Depot, the 
tube is on the boat so I do not have the info.  The sealant is off-white, quite 
a reasonable match to the gelcoat.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Tue, 3/28/17, Gary Russell via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Sealing fixed portlights / windows, 1994 C&C 37/40+
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Gary Russell" 
 Date: Tuesday, March 28, 2017, 12:19 PM
 
 I'm
 guessing it's wishful thinking.  The windows
 "work" significantly when the boat flexes and I
 doubt the sealant will work for long.  My previous owner
 tried to smear silicon on the leaks without success.  That
 being said, DOW 795 is much better than the typical silicone
 and may work better than what the PO used.
 GaryS/V
 Kaylarah'90 C&C 37+East
 Greenwich, RI, USA
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
 
 On
 Tue, Mar 28, 2017 at 12:04 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 Hello
 again everyone,
 Our C&C 37/40+ has
 a minor leak or two through the fixed portlights
 windows.  I have read up on the removal &
 re-installation process, and many seem to be recommending
 the VHB tape and Dow 795 sealer approach (or similar). 
 
 I would
 like to seal the fixed portlights in place without replacing
 them for now.  While they are showing some crazing, and I
 intend to eventually replace them (say in 18 months or
 so), in the short term I simply want to stop all leaks so
 that we can prevent any further staining of the teak. 
 
 Does anyone have a recommendation as far as doing
 this?  Should I simply attempt to carefully mask the
 fiberglass & plexiglass on the exterior and apply a
 bead of Dow 795?  
 Would it be better to
 apply a thin layer on the inside?  
 Or,
 am I guilty of wishful thinking?  
 Thanks!
 
 Bruce Whitmore
 
 (847) 404-5092 (mobile)
 bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 
 __
 _
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/
 stumurray
 
 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

save the removed insulator, split it and use it over the joint.  You want as 
'smooth' joint as possible.  The cable is designed with 'that' insulator, reuse 
it.

Leslie.
spent many years communicating with spacecraft millions of miles away, using 
BIG antennas...


On Fri, 11/18/16, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Splicing RG58 coax
 To: "CnClist" 
 Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Date: Friday, November 18, 2016, 5:02 PM
 
 My old Garmin text
 only GPS quit acquiring satellites.  I tried a spare 128
 with the same result.  Aha, bad antenna.  I bought a cheap
 Chinese knock off replacement.  
 
 When I went to pull the old antenna out, I
 discovered the cable somehow got cut by the steering
 system.  (I think it was a leprechaun or boat gremlin but
 not sure.)
 
 So, the old antenna is probably still good and I'd
 like to fix it as a spare.  With a new antenna costing only
 $30, it doesn't pay to invest in pricey splice
 connectors, etc.  My buddies on the bayou and some internet
 research say the RG58 AU cable can be spliced by soldering.
 
 Seems simple enough.
 Peel back the outer covers and shieldsStrip
 the insulator to expose the center conductorsSolder
 the center conductors togetherBuild up the
 insulator with Teflon tape, heat shrink tubing,
 etcPull one shield downPull the other
 shield over it and solderFinish with heat
 shrinkLike this only neater:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4vYcYz9pbTE
 
 This is more of a curiosity project than a necessity.  Just
 chunking the old one in the trash is also OK.
 
 Any other ideas?  I see cheap connectors on mouser.com etc but don't
 see a butt splice thingie.  I saw a video using two female
 connectors and a barrel connector.
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Violeta,

based on the picture, I think you can clean up the corrosion and apply paint 
(Rustoleum was used successfully by some on the list).  They do not look 
structurally compromised, but of course the rails would have to be removed, 
inspected then replaced.  

C&C used butyl tape under those rails, and works well.

Leslie.


On Sun, 11/13/16, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Violeta Ivanova" 
 Date: Sunday, November 13, 2016, 5:45 PM
 
 Gary, Leslie: thanks. As I understand,
 parts of the toe rail on our boat are also very worn out. To
 be honest, I never noticed, but I wasn't looking for it
 when I sailed the boat earlier this year. I am not near her
 at present. I am only helping with the research. 
 
 South Shore/Bob
 seems like an excellent resource. We'll check that out.
 
 
 How does one know if
 the old sealant is butyl or something else? Can you tell
 from this photo?
 
 https://www.dropbox.com/s/jdwc8k7tem6s39r/toerail1.jpg?dl=0
 
 The photo also
 shows how toe rail corrosion affects the topsides of our
 C&C 43. Repainting the topsides is on the to do list,
 too. 
 
 Violeta
 
 
 
 
 On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at
 3:53 PM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 I got a quote for on piece of toe
 rail from South Shore, that is Rob. It is an exact
 replacement for the bow piece of my rail, and is 15.5 feet
 long. I would take the old one off and look before spending
 the not trivial amount on a new one, you may have leaks
 because the original 40 year old butyl is
 gone. Gary From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-bounces@cnc-
 list.com] On Behalf Of Violeta Ivanova via
 CnC-List
 Sent: Sunday, November 13,
 2016 2:46 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Violeta Ivanova 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom
 C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
 replacement?) Thanks, Bob. This is great
 information! I was wondering where one might find scale
 drawings. I will contact the museum.
 Good to hear removing the toe
 rail will not affect the joint structurally. I thought it
 might, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
  Thanks for all the links to
 vendors! I am replying here to everyone who responded, so I
 don't send multiple emails. 
 
 Ken - yes, it is the slotted aluminum toe rail.
 As far as I know, the reasons for replacement are leaks and
 corrosion. I was not involved in the decision to replace the
 toe rail. The C&C 43' belongs to my university, and
 I am one of her skippers. Great boat!
 
 I had not seen the do it yourself album yet -
 very useful, thanks. I am poking around the website now -
 great resource!
 
 We tried
 Holland Marine already, but they didn't have our toe
 rail. Rob McLaughlin and Klacko Spars are new names for me -
 thanks for the links. If anyone can think of other possible
 sources for that toe rail, please let me know.    
  Violeta 
   On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at 10:19
 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List 
 wrote:Violeta, All the drawings for the
 C&C 43 reside in the C&C collection in the archives
 if the Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston
 (Ontario). If you contact the museum curator through the
 website you can order a copy  of the construction plan
 which most likely show the toe rail and hull to deck joint.
 If you know which 43 you own (original name of boat or her
 first owner) you most can likely get copies of the drawings
 relating specifically to your
 43. However, merely removing and
 replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize the structural
 integrity of the hull to deck joint over that
 period. A replacement rail may be
 available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore Yachts in St.
 Catherines, ON.  Rob
 Mazza  Sent from Samsung
 Mobile  Original message
 From: Violeta Ivanova via
 CnC-List Date:11-12-2016 2:19 PM
 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Violeta Ivanova
 Subject: Stus-List 1973
 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail
 replacement?)  Greetings all.
 Might someone here help with
 questions about the custom C&C 43' from 1973? This
 was a limited edition and I think only fourteen boats were
 ever built. We would like to replace the toe rail on our
 boat, but are unsure how that might affect the hull/deck
 joint. 
 
 Some specific
 questions:1 - What is the structure of
 the hull/deck joint on the 1973 C&C 43'?
 2
 - How is the toe rail integrated with the hull/deck
 joint?3 - What happens if we remove
 the toe rail (or part of it)?
  Good advice will be
 appreciated.Thanks,Violeta
 
 
  
 
 __
 _
 
 This list
 is supported by the generous donations of our members. If
 you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please
 go to:  https://www.paypal.me/
 stumurray
 
 All
 Contributions are greatly
 appreciated! 
 __
 _
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 m

Re: Stus-List Awesome C&C race boat on eBay

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

 and I doubt yours sails fast 12+ knots.

;-)

Leslie.


On Sun, 11/13/16, Ronald B. Frerker via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Awesome C&C race boat on eBay
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Ronald B. Frerker" 
 Date: Sunday, November 13, 2016, 9:06 PM
 
 Looks
 a lot like my regular C&C 30-1.  Sure hate to see
 prices that low.RonWild
 CheriSTL
 
 
 
   From: Dennis C. via
 CnC-List 
 
 To: CnClist
  
 Cc: Dennis C.
 
  Sent: Sunday, November
 13, 2016 7:04 PM
  Subject: Stus-List
 Awesome C&C race boat on eBay
   
 
 I
 want this!  Wonder what the PHRF rating is?  You'll
 win every regatta with this boat.
 
 
http://www.ebay.com/itm/30FT-C-C-RED-WING-SAILBOAT-SAILS-FAST-12-KNOTS-/322326679472?forcerrptr=true&hash=item4b0c2acfb0:g:PHgAAOSwA3dYHUuD&item=322326679472
 
 Dennis C.
 Touche' 35-1 #83
 Mandeville, LA
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 

 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail replacement?)

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

In this case you do not need to replace the toe rail, just re-bed it after 
cleaning up everything.  Still a major job.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Sun, 11/13/16, Violeta Ivanova via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe rail 
replacement?)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Violeta Ivanova" 
 Date: Sunday, November 13, 2016, 11:45 AM
 
 Thanks, Bob. This is
 great information! I was wondering where one might find
 scale drawings. I will contact the museum. 
 
 Good to hear removing
 the toe rail will not affect the joint structurally. I
 thought it might, but it doesn't seem to be the case.
 
 
 Thanks for all
 the links to vendors! I am replying here to everyone who
 responded, so I don't send multiple emails. 
 
 Ken - yes, it is the slotted
 aluminum toe rail. As far as I know, the reasons for
 replacement are leaks and corrosion. I was not involved in
 the decision to replace the toe rail. The C&C 43'
 belongs to my university, and I am one of her skippers.
 Great boat!
 
 I had not seen 
 the do it yourself album yet - very useful, thanks. I am
 poking around 
 the website now - great resource!
 
 We tried Holland Marine already, but they
 didn't have our toe rail. Rob McLaughlin and Klacko
 Spars are new names for me - thanks for the links. If anyone
 can think of other possible sources for that toe rail,
 please let me know.     
 
 Violeta  
 
 
 
 On Sun, Nov 13, 2016 at
 10:19 AM, robertlmazza via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Violeta,
 All the drawings for the C&C 43
 reside in the C&C collection in the archives if the
 Marine Museum of the Great Lakes at Kingston (Ontario). If
 you contact the museum curator through the website you can
 order a copy  of the construction plan which most likely
 show the toe rail and hull to deck joint. If you know which
 43 you own (original name of boat or her first owner) you
 most can likely get copies of the drawings relating
 specifically to your 43.
 However, merely removing and
 replacing the toe rail will not jeopardize the structural
 integrity of the hull to deck joint over that
 period.
 A replacement
 rail may be available from Rob McLaughlin at South Shore
 Yachts in St. Catherines, ON.
 
 Rob
 Mazza
 
 Sent from Samsung
 Mobile
 
  Original
 message From: Violeta Ivanova via
 CnC-List  Date:11-12-2016  2:19 PM 
 (GMT-05:00) To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: Violeta Ivanova  Subject:
 Stus-List 1973 custom C&C 43' - hull/deck joint (toe
 rail replacement?) 
 Greetings all.
 
 
 Might someone here
 help with questions about the custom C&C 43' from
 1973? This was a limited edition and I think only fourteen
 boats were ever built. We would like to replace the toe rail
 on our boat, but are unsure how that might affect the
 hull/deck joint. 
 
 Some
 specific questions:
 
 1
 - What is the structure of the hull/deck joint on the 1973
 C&C 43'? 
 2 - How is the toe
 rail integrated with the hull/deck joint?
 3 - What happens if we remove the toe
 rail (or part of it)? 
 
 Good advice will be appreciated.
 
 Thanks,
 
 Violeta
 
 
 
   
 
 
 __
 _
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/
 stumurray
 
 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List 30MKII. For sale

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

If the original sales brochure said 'large V-berth' then it has a large V-berth!

;-)

Leslie
Phoenix, C&C32 1983
Long Beach CA.

On Sat, 11/5/16, Allan Rheaume via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List 30MKII. For sale
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Allan Rheaume" , "Robert Gallagher" 

 Date: Saturday, November 5, 2016, 4:56 AM
 
 I saw this listing on
 Yachtworld yesterday. Did the broker visit the boat? I
 noticed some of the listed specs were wrong and the broker
 spoke of the "large" v-berth.
 I'll
 be listing my shoal draft 30-2 as well in spring. Fresh
 water in Eastern Lake Ontario.
 Al
 RheaumeDrumroll30-2
 #90
 
 
 
   From: Robert Gallagher
 via CnC-List 
 
 To:
 "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
  
 Cc: Robert Gallagher
 
  Sent: Friday, November
 4, 2016 4:00 PM
  Subject: Stus-List
 30MKII. For sale

 Not sure if I'm
 doing the right thing but I've listed my pride and joy
 with a broker.  I'm hoping to move up to a larger boat
 that is as well built, reliable and fast 
  http://www.spicersbrokerage.com/
 Rob
 Gallagher860-389-6900
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 

 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

it only doubles the fibers   ;-)

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/27/16, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat Handling Skill
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Josh Muckley" 
 Date: Thursday, October 27, 2016, 6:47 PM
 
 Funny you should mention
 a midships cleat.  My wife has been begging me for a
 midships cleat/solution of some sort.  I finally had some
 time and made some amsteel loops that I luggage tagged onto
 the toe rail at the midships position.  I tie my mooring
 line to it with a sheet bend.  The amsteel is rated at
 ~9000 pounds and the loop doubled over quadruples the number
 of fibers carrying the load so I feel very confident that
 the loop is not the weak point in the system.  When I'm
 done using the loops  they just live there on the rail
 until next time.
 Josh
 MuckleyS/V Sea Hawk1989 C&C
 37+Solomons, MD
 
 On Thu, Oct 27,
 2016, 8:51 PM Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Mid ship cleat?
 What's that?!!
 You guys don't actually
 sail C&Cs, do you?!!
 (I use the primary winch as a
 spring. Not quite "mid ship" but works almost as
 well for snugging up to the dock)
 SteveSuhana, C&C 32Toronto
 
 
 On
 Thu, Oct 27, 2016 at 8:32 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 “Short spring from amidships”
 is more properly called a breast line. And that is ALWAYS
 the first line over when I bring the 72’ schooner I
 captain into a dock (or a slip). The
 fact that you know and use the process indicates to me that
 you are a competent skipper, Joe.  I
 am often amused – and occasionally terrified – to watch
 the captains – even experienced captains of larger boats
 – who just seem to insist on approaching the dock from 45
 to 90 degrees, and then getting a bow line over. I’ve tried to explain the
 process to I-don’t-know-how-many small boat skippers over
 the past 4 years, but they just don’t seem to grasp that
 once the breast line is attached to the dock (or a piling),
 you can use power to pull the boat snug to the dock and set
 fore and aft springs to position the boat, and power against
 the springs to pull the bow and stern in against any
 combination of wind and current.  Rick Brass  From:
 CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Della
 Barba, Joe via CnC-List
 Sent: Thursday, October
 27, 2016 4:52 PM
 To: 'cnc-list@cnc-list.com'
 
 Cc: Della Barba, Joe
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List
 Boat Handling Skill Use
 a short spring from amidships. You can hold the boat on with
 forward or reverse as needed.  I
 use this with great effect when parallel parking
 singlehanded.JoeCoquina  
 ___
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you wish to make a contribution to offset our
 costs, please go to:  https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 
 
 All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you wish to make a
 contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
 
 All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish to 
make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

All Contributions are greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List [Support] Re: Question on PredictWind.com

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

%<
 But I was coming from
 Vista!! And that wasn't possible (note the
 capital on the A, that was placed
 there by
 Outlook all by itself).
 
 Gary (still living in the stone age and not
 liking having to come out of my
 cave)
-%<

the capital A is correct after the exclamation mark.  But there should be a 
coma after the "And".

;-)

Leslie.
'refuses' to use Outlook or MS Office.
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List SailTimer Wind Instrument

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

no reputable vendor will charge your card till the merchandise is shipping!

Leslie


On Fri, 7/29/16, RANDY via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List SailTimer Wind Instrument
 To: "cnc-list" 
 Cc: "RANDY" 
 Date: Friday, July 29, 2016, 9:06 AM
 
 Listers-
 Have any of you installed (or ordered) the
 SailTimer Wind Instrument?  (http://www.sailtimerwind.com)
 I clued into it last year after experimenting
 with the SailTimer application (http://www.sailtimerapp.com),
 and ordered one for my boat this year.
 The problem is the vendor is WAY behind in
 filling orders.  I placed my order on April 10th, and
 the vendor charged my credit card, and I STILL have not
 received the instrument.
 Has anyone else had this experience?  Or any
 other thoughts on SailTimer?  I'm sold on the
 technical advantages of their offerings, but disappointed
 with the customer service on the instrument so
 far.
 Thanks,Randy StaffordS/V
 GrenadineC&C 30-1 #7Ken Caryl,
 CO
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
 costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Relocating the Yanmar key now alternator..

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Small correction:
"The sudden high
 current overheats the diodes and they fail open"
When the battery is disconnected while the alternator is charging the existing 
field current will generate a high voltage spike that exceeds the reverse 
voltage breakdown value.  Normal diodes are rated for 60-100V reverse voltage.  
The spike can be lot more; depending how high was the charging current 
(more>higher).  The P/N junction will punch through, the resulting localized 
current can make it open or short.

Overloading forward (normal direction) current will heat the chip and the 
carefully placed 'impurities' will migrate and make the diode a little or lot 
leaky.  Unless you fuse the internal connection, the open.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Tue, 7/19/16, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Relocating the Yanmar key now alternator..
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Josh Muckley" 
 Date: Tuesday, July 19, 2016, 9:31 AM
 
 I have heard
 all of this before and am still electrically confused.  I
 have a few theories but no proof.  In the face of my
 theories is the fact that it is not consistently
 repeatable.  So here goes.
 Turn the battery off while running and the
 alternator suddenly goes to full output kinda like shifting
 to 1st while going 70mph.  I get that.  The sudden high
 current overheats the diodes and they fail open.
 Turn the key off while running and one of two
 things happens.  1st option is that nothing about the
 alternator is wired to the ignition and nothing happens.  I

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 47

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Please heed Stu's directive!


On Fri, 4/8/16, ssjohnson via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 47
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "ssjohnson" 
 Date: Friday, April 8, 2016, 7:25 PM
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sent from my Verizon
 Wireless 4G LTE smartphone
 
 
 Original message 
 From: cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com 
 Date: 04/08/2016  3:33 PM  (GMT-06:00) 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: CnC-List Digest, Vol 123, Issue 47 
 
 Send CnC-List mailing list submissions to
cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body
 'help' to
cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 
 You can reach the person managing the list at
cnc-list-ow...@cnc-list.com
--%<

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

A friend got RT sail (135) about two years ago.  It is quite OK for cruising, 
BUT he had to replace the dacron sun-cover with Sunbrella and repair some of 
the stitching.  It cost him $800.  The sail spent "all the time" on the furler 
since we get to sail 12 months a year (SoCal).

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Sat, 3/26/16, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Rolly Tasker Sails
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
 Date: Saturday, March 26, 2016, 6:34 AM

---%<
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

flat blade screwdriver or any key that fit.  (there are no pins inside, just a 
slot)

Leslie.

On Thu, 3/24/16, Richard N. Bush via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar Key source
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Richard N. Bush" 
 Date: Thursday, March 24, 2016, 2:08 PM
 
 
 
  I find myself in need of a
 replacement key for my engine...a Yanmar, I know (or at
 least I think) they are interchangeable, like golf cart
 keys...anyone know of an inexpensive source?
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard
 
 
 
 
 1985 C&C 37 CB; Ohio River, Mile 596
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
 
 
 2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite Nine
 
 
 Louisville, Kentucky 40220-1462 
 
 
 502-584-7255
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 
 
 
 This list is supported by the generous donations of our
 members. If you like what we do, please help us pay for our
 costs by donating. All Contributions are greatly
 appreciated!
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 This list is supported by the
 generous donations of our members. If you like what we do,
 please help us pay for our costs by donating. All
 Contributions are greatly appreciated!
 

___

This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you like 
what we do, please help us pay for our costs by donating. All Contributions are 
greatly appreciated!

Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

A long time ago, while living in Boston I took a C&C25 to Martha's Vineyard 
from Marblehead and back around the Cape over two weeks.  It was fine but 
camping experience is a must.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983

On Tue, 1/26/16, Mark McMenamy via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Mark McMenamy" 
 Date: Tuesday, January 26, 2016, 10:50 AM
 
 
 Thanks.  I've been wondering how using the engine
 would play out.  During our sailing lessons we've
 always been in shore, never any real rough chop.  I'll
 be using the Fort Pierce inlet which is one of the more
 benign inlets here in FL, but at times it
  for sure can get choppy, even if it's not low tide with
 and easterly wind.
 
 
 
 I was curious if people ever take these on longer
 trips?  I was thinking of going down to the keys but
 I'm not quite sure how feasible that is.  It's just
 my wife and I and we've done a lot of camping etc.
  It's a little over 100 nm to get down there.
 
 
 
 Thanks again for the info.
 
 
 
 Mark
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Mark McMenamy
 "Icicle" C&C 25
 Fort Pierce FL
 
 
 
 
 On Jan 26, 2016, at 10:46 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 #yiv8042994849
 #yiv8042994849 --
  
  _filtered #yiv8042994849 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv8042994849 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
 #yiv8042994849  
 #yiv8042994849 p.yiv8042994849MsoNormal, #yiv8042994849
 li.yiv8042994849MsoNormal, #yiv8042994849
 div.yiv8042994849MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv8042994849 a:link, #yiv8042994849
 span.yiv8042994849MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv8042994849 a:visited, #yiv8042994849
 span.yiv8042994849MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv8042994849 p.yiv8042994849msonormal0, #yiv8042994849
 li.yiv8042994849msonormal0, #yiv8042994849
 div.yiv8042994849msonormal0
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv8042994849 span.yiv8042994849EmailStyle18
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv8042994849 span.yiv8042994849EmailStyle19
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv8042994849 span.yiv8042994849EmailStyle20
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv8042994849 .yiv8042994849MsoChpDefault
{font-size:10.0pt;}
  _filtered #yiv8042994849 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv8042994849 div.yiv8042994849WordSection1
{}
 #yiv8042994849 
 Mark, 
 I can just say that it happens on
 occasion and it is totally driven by the sea state and wind
 direction.  Because of that, I will try my best to sail
 using a
  100% jib and reefed main in anything up to 25+ knots on the
 nose.  When I need to motor due to time constraints (or
 seasick crew) heading directly into the wind and waves keeps
 the motor in the water better than a heavy quartering sea
 which rolls the boat
  to leeward.  Also motor sailing seems to reduce cavitation
 sailing off the breeze as the boat tends to “squat ” a
 bit to stern when under sail, maybe due to the weight of the
 crew and an 85lb motor hanging off the stern.  I’ve
 learned to pick and choose my
  days a bit more carefully when it comes to transiting
 longer distances just to keep the crew comfy and the boat in
 one piece. 
 Chuck 
    
 Chuck Gilchrest 
 Half Magic
  
 1975 25 Mk 1 
 S/V Orion 
 1983 35 Landfall 
 Padanaram, MA 
    
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Mark McMenamy via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Tuesday, January 26, 2016 9:24 AM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Mark McMenamy 
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 25 Info 
 
 
    
 
 Thanks Chuck.  Mine
 originally had a Vire 7 as well. 
 
 
    
 
 
 I have a 20" outboard
 as well.   How often do you have trouble with the engine
 cavitating? 
 
 
    
 
 
 Mark
 
 
 
 Mark McMenamy  
 
 "Icicle" C&C
 25 
 
 
 Fort Pierce FL 
 
 
 
 
 
 On Jan 26, 2016, at 9:19 AM, Chuck Gilchrest via CnC-List
 
 wrote: 
 
 
 
 Mark, 
 I wish I had a viable solution,
 but I really don’t.  My plywood backing plate inside the
 transom is ½” marine plywood as previously mentioned and
 it is epoxy
  bonded in place and through bolted with the 4  ½” motor
 mount bolts with large fender washers to spread out the
 loads.   I would say that the spacing of the motor mount
 bolts is roughly 8” on centers, but the backing plate is
 easily 18” wide and 13” high. 
   I repainted Half Magic with 2 part Polyurethane several
 years ago and took care to fill any cracks or crazing caused
 by the motor induced transom flex.  All was good until I
 had to come across Buzzards Bay in 4 ft seas into the
 wind.  Whenever the prop would
  come out of the water coming down a wave, the poor transom
 would flex enough that the cracks showed up again…. And
 yes, I have a long shaft motor with a 20” leg, but given a
 second choice on the motor, should have chosen the Xtra long
 shaft 25” leg. 
 Also, my boat was originally

Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ nameplates for sale

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Gary,

if your stay did NOT make you an expert you may have grounds for false 
advertising.  VBG

Leslie.

On Tue, 1/12/16, Gary Russell via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C 37+ nameplates for sale
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Gary Russell" 
 Date: Tuesday, January 12, 2016, 3:35 AM
 
 Hi Josh,   
  I  will try to get a quote for the stainless steel.  If
 I can get it, what kind of stainless do you want?  The
 choices will probably 308 or 316.  The 316 is more
 corrosion resistant, harder to machine and more expensive.
 I'm not an expert on this stuff (but I did stay at a
 Holiday Inn Express last  night 😀).
 Gary
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
 
 On Mon, Jan 11, 2016
 at 7:02 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Interested in a quote for something in a polished
 chrome or stainless.
 Josh Muckley
 On Jan 11, 2016 6:36
 PM, "Rick Rohwer via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 Interested
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 On Jan 11, 2016, at 14:47, Gary Russell via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Well,
 I've got what I consider a reasonable quote for the
 nameplates.  I can supply them in black UV resistant
 polycarbonate for $75 each side plus shipping..  That
 includes everything including the NRE (non-recurring
 engineering charges).  The NRE is basically CAM charges). 
 I need to know who is interested.  I suspect I can  have
 them in about a week.  If there are similar nameplates for
 other C&C models, I can entertain getting them as
 well.  I don't know if I can get them in stainless
 steel, but if possible it will be quite a bit more expensive
 because of the small radii of some of the cuts.  A
 1/16" cutter moves very slow in stainlessSo let me
 know if you are interested.
 GaryS/V High
 Maintenance'90 C&C 37+East
 Greenwich, RI, USA
 ~~~_/)~~
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List 10. Re: Acoustic insulation in Canada (Dreuge)

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

the link does not appear to work.  :-(

Leslie.


On Sat, 1/9/16, Dave Syer via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List 10. Re: Acoustic insulation in Canada (Dreuge)
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Dave Syer" 
 Date: Saturday, January 9, 2016, 5:54 AM
 
 Was at the Toronto boat show last night and
 indeed hmp had insulation on sale, C$75 for 13 sq ft.  
 Thanks for the tip.     It may not have quite the
 mass of the other material i was looking at.  (Not
 good)   It is thicker (may be good or bad) and has a
 layer of foil n the outside.   (Probably good). Anyway,
  It was easy to buy. I expect that in
 leaky a two sided box like the 33ii 's engine bay, there
 are more impactful opportunities for noise abatement than
 the bestest ever insulation.   Thanks
 for the input on this question, see below for a link to a
 pretty comprehensive write up on the subject.  There is
 also an extremely superficial article in the current issue
 of " this old boat" if anyone is interested in
 learning very little.  ;-)
 
http://power.cummins.com/sites/default/files/literature/technicalpapers/PT-7015-NoiseSolutions-en.pdfasdfseeseesee
 Dave.
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Interesting photos of waves on L. Erie

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Thank you!  Unbelievably scary and beautiful the same time.

Leslie.
 

On Thu, 12/31/15, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Interesting photos of waves on L. Erie
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Marek Dziedzic" 
 Date: Thursday, December 31, 2015, 1:48 PM
 
  I thought some of you may
 find this interesting: crashing
 waves  I found the link on
 SBO.    Marek  Sent from Mail
 for Windows 10  
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

or you could "inherit" cushions more suitable for a livingroom than the boat.  
They are off-white.  It is an attractive, good quality material; living under 
towels to protect them

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32 1983.


On Fri, 12/18/15, Gary Nylander via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Gary Nylander" 
 Date: Friday, December 18, 2015, 2:56 PM
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

the current trendy style is the late 50s.  So you won't have to wait too 
long  ;-)

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983
Long Beach, CA.


On Fri, 12/18/15, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Cost to recover cushions - ouch
 To: "CnClist" 
 Cc: "Dennis C." 
 Date: Friday, December 18, 2015, 10:26 AM
 
 Sunbrella
 is pretty pricey.  Look at fabrics for patio furniture. 
 Most are a fraction of the cost of Sunbrella.  Heck, even
 Home Depot sells outdoor fabrics.
 
 Guess I'm lucky, Touche's cushions are in
 decent shape.  However the pattern is definitely 70's
 retro.  Who knows, in another 40 years it might be back in
 style.
 
 Dennis C.
 
 On Fri, Dec 18, 2015
 at 11:45 AM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 Hi Joel,
 
 
 I'm curious as to why you spec'd Sunbrella? It's
 forte is colour-fast
 after years of sun exposure and it's not the most
 comfortable fabric to
 sit on.
 
 
 I suggest talking about proper upholstery fabric when
 dealing with your
 supplier.
 
 
 My saloon is done in leather but that might not be the best
 for your
 style.
 
 
 Cheers,
 Russ
 
 Sweet
 35 mk-1
 
 
 At 12:07 PM 17/12/2015, you wrote:
 
 All,
 
 
 Just got a quote to have the cushions in the main salon - U
 shaped
 dinette and straight berth with back cushions- recovered in
 Sunbrella.​
 Â Estimate was at least $2200 depending on
 fabric/extras.  Is that
 a reasonable price?  Is there any good way to DIY if you
 don't
 sew?
 
 
 
 
 Joel 
 
 35/3
 
 Annapolis
 
 301 541 8551
 
 ___
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the
 bottom of page at:
 
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Wabasto furness

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

there is a fair chance it is already stamped with "made in china".

Leslie.


On Tue, 12/15/15, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Wabasto furness
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Bill Coleman" 
 Date: Tuesday, December 15, 2015, 10:56 AM
 
 
 #yiv1771914835 #yiv1771914835 --
   
  _filtered #yiv1771914835 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv1771914835 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv1771914835 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11
 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
 #yiv1771914835  
 #yiv1771914835 p.yiv1771914835MsoNormal, #yiv1771914835
 li.yiv1771914835MsoNormal, #yiv1771914835
 div.yiv1771914835MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv1771914835 a:link, #yiv1771914835
 span.yiv1771914835MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv1771914835 a:visited, #yiv1771914835
 span.yiv1771914835MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv1771914835 p.yiv1771914835MsoAcetate, #yiv1771914835
 li.yiv1771914835MsoAcetate, #yiv1771914835
 div.yiv1771914835MsoAcetate
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:8.0pt;}
 #yiv1771914835 span.yiv1771914835EmailStyle17
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv1771914835 span.yiv1771914835BalloonTextChar
{}
 #yiv1771914835 .yiv1771914835MsoChpDefault
{}
  _filtered #yiv1771914835 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv1771914835 div.yiv1771914835Section1
{}
 #yiv1771914835 
 
 
 
 
 Look at all those knock off
 hoverboards, blowing up like Pintos! 
 
 Personally, I would get the
 Wasbasto.  If, when you get it, it
 sez, ‘Made in China’, then I don’t know what to say .
 . .  
 
    
 
 Bill Coleman 
 
 C&C 39 Erie, PA 
 
    
 
 
 
 From: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
 Fred Hazzard via
 CnC-List
 
 Sent: Tuesday, December 15, 2015 11:51 AM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Fred Hazzard
 
 Subject: Stus-List Wabasto furness 
 
 
 
    
 
 
 
 
 
 I need to replace the
 dosing pump on my Wabasto airtop 3500/
 5000 furness.   I can buy a Wasbasto replacement for
 about $200 or a
 Chinese one for about $75 on ebay. I am looking for listers
 feelings about
 using the knock off  pump .
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
 
 
 
    
 
 
 
 
 
 Fred Hazzard 
 
 
 
 
 
 S/V Fury 
 
 
 
 
 
 C&C 44 
 
 
 
 
 
 Portland, Or 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Vacation Options -- Not C&C Related, But Sailing Related

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Unfortunately, you will not have enough time to do a real day rental.  Ships 
arrive in the morning, takes some time to get off and go anywhere from the 
terminal.  On the other end, you want to be back at the terminal with a bit of 
margin, they can leave you behind.

In most ports you can find a local outfit that have outings that match the 
cruise schedule.  Since I focused on land excursions (like renting a taxi for 
few hours) or the beach, can not help you with sailing trip info.

Good luck and be safe.

Leslie.
(likes cruising, almost as much as sailing...)


On Tue, 11/24/15, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Vacation Options -- Not C&C Related, But Sailing Related
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: djhaug...@juno.com
 Date: Tuesday, November 24, 2015, 3:32 PM
 
 Hi edd, in pretty sure you can do day
 rentals out of any of the charter companies on Tortola
 
 DannyOn Nov 24, 2015 4:02 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 >
 > Listers,
 >
 > I’m heading to the caribbean next month for a
 much-needed vacation on a cruise ship. The ship is going to
 St. Maarten, St. Thomas, Old San Juan and, for a short time,
 Tortola. 
 >
 > I’m looking for recommendations on a trustworthy
 sailboat (or, if I have to, powerboat) rental options for a
 day at one of the destinations. The sailing excursions
 offered through the cruise line tend to be more
 motor-with-the sail-up, don’t-touch-the-lines, booze
 cruises — which I’m looking to avoid. Instead, I’d
 like to just go out, sail around, snorkel, beach, etc. on my
 own schedule. 
 >
 > Any suggestions? 
 >
 >
 > All the best,
 >
 > Edd
 >
 >
 > Edd M. Schillay
 > Starship Enterprise
 > C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
 > City Island, NY 
 > Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 >
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Heading south?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Classy outfit, though C&C only in spirit.  Have a great trip.

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32


On Sat, 11/21/15, stumurray25--- via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Heading south?
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: stumurra...@gmail.com
 Date: Saturday, November 21, 2015, 10:46 AM
 
 
 
 
 Ron and others
  
 This morning we awoke to a light dusting of the bad
 stuff (snow) and just 
 kept on saying “Wait for another couple of weeks,
 please”.
  
 As you get older, the cold gets colder, the snow gets
 deeper and heavier 
 and Florida sunshine looks better.
  
 This will be our 5th year to travel south and each year
 we seem to stay 
 longer.  The first year was 2 months, this year we will be
 out of the 
 country for 4 months.  Hope to leave of December 8th and
 return around 
 April 8th.  Unfortunately we are near the middle of Florida
 so there are 
 not too many C&C’s around to go visit.
  
 
 
 
  
 Our C&C (Captain
 & Convertible) land 
 yacht can’t wait to get rolling.   
  
 Stu
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List : The platform question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

sort of but not quite

The "Internet" in 'modern' sense was established in 1982, ARPANET.  Early nets 
were in use by the 70s, usually limited to localized computers (campus wide).  
I was lucky to work for Linkabit, an early adopter; that company developed the 
first email client program in wide use (1983-4).

Linkabit also developed the original GPS (Navstar), and the digital TV 
transmission protocols.  It was an interesting place to work.

So many of us have boats that do not predate the Internet, only a few that 
predates computer nets.  And I consider myself up-to-date as I have a Princess 
phone from AT&T.  ;-)  Though not in use, the bell would wake the dead...

Leslie
Phoenix, C&C32 1983


On Mon, 11/2/15, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List : The platform question
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Hoyt, Mike" 
 Date: Monday, November 2, 2015, 7:05 AM
 
 #yiv8985833895
 #yiv8985833895 --
  
  _filtered #yiv8985833895 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv8985833895 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv8985833895 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11
 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv8985833895 {font-family:Verdana;panose-1:2 11
 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
 #yiv8985833895  
 #yiv8985833895 p.yiv8985833895MsoNormal, #yiv8985833895
 li.yiv8985833895MsoNormal, #yiv8985833895
 div.yiv8985833895MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv8985833895 a:link, #yiv8985833895
 span.yiv8985833895MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv8985833895 a:visited, #yiv8985833895
 span.yiv8985833895MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv8985833895 span.yiv8985833895EmailStyle17
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv8985833895 .yiv8985833895MsoChpDefault
{font-size:10.0pt;}
  _filtered #yiv8985833895 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv8985833895 div.yiv8985833895WordSection1
{}
 #yiv8985833895 
 
 Janko 
    
 This list went thru Forum vs List
 question last year and the majority here liked preferred
 email list 
    
 We are almost all old codgers so
 any technology newer than 1995 or so befuddles and confuses
 us.  You will also note that most of us choose boats built
 before
  the age of internet as well.  We likely all also have
 rotary dial phones 
    
 I am digressing.  Is an old age
 thing I guess.  Anyway the majority prefer list over forum
 … 
 
 
 From: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Janko Puls via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2015 9:54 AM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Janko Puls
 
 Subject: Stus-List : The platform question
 
 
 
    
 
 
 Hi Stu and everyone, 
 
 
   
 
 
 Did you ever consider switching the
 list into a forum? 
 
 
   
 
 
 I really enjoy reading this
 everyday, here is so much shared knowlegede and enthusiasm,
 but it's a pain in the neck to actually read.
 
 
 
 These are some problems with the
 actual list: 
 
 
 - When you clip everything off, it
 is hard to see what you exactly answered. 
 
 
 - If you leave the whole thing on,
 it is simply undecipherable. 
 
 
 - If you try to search for
 someting, you get way too many double, triple quintuple hits
 because of these copies. 
 
 
 - This list is the only recipient
 where I have to switch my email formatting off, or can's
 include a picture. 
 
 
   
 
 
 A forum could organize all thisd so
 much better 
 
 
 - You can follow the threads,
 expand or compress them to your hearts content and stay on
 topic. 
 
 
 - You answer exactly what and where
 you want to answer. 
 
 
 - It builds a searchable archive
 all by itself. 
 
 
 - If you don't want to go on it
 every day, subscribe to a newletter digest. 
 
 
 - You have a consistent layout
 which makes reading and searching so much easier.
 
 
 
 - It is even easy to see if there
 was a there already a thread, link ist, add photos (just
 think wiring diagrams, sail plans, manuals etc.) 
 
 
   
 
 
 Some samples: 
 
 
 http://www.cruisersforum.com/
 
 
 
 http://forums.sailboatowners.com/index.php
 
 
 
   
 
 
 from other vocations: 
 
 
 http://www.nikonians.org/forums/dcboard.php
 
 
 
 http://saabworld.net/forum.php
 
 
 
   
 
 
 I am aware that the text-only has
 an advantage when you are far out at sea otr high up oin a
 mountain and everxy bit counts. But let's be honest,
 most of us reading the list
  probably sit at home with a PC, Mac, tablet or smartphone
 and don't have to count the bits anymore (except the are
 Bitburger Pilseners). 
 
 
   
 
 
 I am pretty much under water these
 days but am happy to look around for some free solution
 (yes, we even used one of these at a newppaper
 website). 
 
 
 Any thoughts? 
 
 
   
 
 
 Cheers, 
 
 
 Janko 
 
 
 1980 C&C MkI Messing
 About 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 
 --
 
 Point of View New York City: A Game of The City You THINK
 You Know
 
 A photo book by Janko Puls.
 
 
 
 +++ Photo

Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

in most cases the GIs have 4 diodes in them for 1.2V drop/isolation.  (2 in 
series in each direction)  Selecting components for a given amp rating is not 
hard.  But, selecting components and enclosure that can withstand the 
environment is a bit of a challenge.

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Wed, 10/28/15, Don Wagner via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good idea?
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Don Wagner" 
 Date: Wednesday, October 28, 2015, 1:55 PM
 
 
 
 
  
 Josh
  
 To answer your question about “What are the shaft
 zincs protecting?” 
 Assuming you are in saltwater such as the Chesapeake,
 Just a few things, including: the prop, the shaft, the
 rudder post, the 
 keel bolts (especially if you have the C&C Smile), as
 well as any other of 
 the usual underwater metals.
 You should protect these items as the can’t be easily
 inspected, but 
 failure can be a real disaster.
  
 If you have a shaft isolator, you should install one
 or  more copper 
 jumpers between the engine coupling and the prop shaft
 coupling.
  
 
 
 Also Galvanic isolators
 are suggested for 
 situations where you suspect the AC system at the marina or
 nearby boats may be 
 compromised.
  
 Note: Galvanic isolators
 are a simple circuit 
 made up 2 big diodes wired in parallel but pointed in
 opposite directions. Since 
 the diodes are not perfect they create about .6 volt DC
 barriers to prevent the 
 corrosion currents  needed for electrolysis.
  
 A  big capacitor is also
 connected in 
 parallel with the diodes to allow AC current at low levels
 and in case of diode 
 failure. All three components are mounted on a large heat
 sink to keep the parts 
 cool and insure a longer life.
 Don’t try building this
 yourself, unless you can 
 design the proper size diodes and capacitors and heat sink the box
  
 Just my   
 $.02
  
  
 Don Wagner
 C&C 41
 CB
 Der Baron
  
 
 From: Josh Muckley
 via CnC-List 
 Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2015 12:48 PM
 To: C&C
 List 
 Cc: Josh Muckley
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Galvanic isolator - Good 
 idea?
  
 
 Since we're on topic.  It seems that there
 is a bit of differing 
 opinions on bonding the under water metals.
 What are the shaft and prop zincs protecting? 
 If a shaft 
 coupling isolator were installed and no bonding wire
 attached then the chance of 
 stray galvanic currents is eliminated.   Right?  What is
 the risk 
 of this situation?  I don't have bonding plates, bronze
 through hulls, keel 
 coolers or anything else except the keel that is metal and
 in contact with the 
 water.
 I've considered possible corrosion effects
 on internal engine 
 components and A/C components.  Seems plausible but no one
 ever talks about 
 it.  Thoughts? 
 I've also considered the anode in the water
 heater.  Seems like 
 the most likely to experience stray galvanic currents and
 the least likely to be 
 replaced or checked on any regular periodicity despite its
 ease of access within 
 the boat.
 I have 2 30 amp connections but use a y-adapter
 so only 1 shore power 
 cord is required.  I also built my own galvanic isolator
 for ~$30 with 
 parts from mouser.com, I've just never
 had the 
 urgent need to install it.
 Josh Muckley
 S/V Sea Hawk
 1989 C&C 37+
 Solomons, MD
 
 On Oct 28, 2015 12:32
 PM, "Frederick G Street via 
 CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 
 
   Also, the ProMariner FS
 Series is a 
   “fail-safe” type isolator; no remote panel needed. 
 Under $300 for a 
   30-amp unit. 
    
   http://promariner.com/products/galvanic-isolation/prosafefs-series/
 
   
   
 Fred 
   Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis 
   (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
 WI   
   :^(
    
   
   
 On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:29 AM, Frederick G Street
 via CnC-List 
 wrote:
  
 
 Steve — the
 “fail-safe” versions of 
 galvanic isolators are also ABYC-approved, and don’t
 require the remote 
 panel.  There’s a company up in our neck of the woods
 that started out 
 making electrical equipment for dairy farms; they
 realized that their ground 
 isolation products would also work well on boats, so
 they expanded into the 
 marine market.  All their units are the “fail-safe”
 types, and their 
 prices are reasonable. 
  
 http://www.dairyland.com/products/galvanic-isolator
 http://www.deimarine.com
 
  
 
 
 Fred 
 Street -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis 
 (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
 WI   
 :^(
  
 
 
   On Oct 28, 2015, at 11:24 AM, S Thomas via
 CnC-List 
 wrote:
    
   
   Ed, 
      What you say is 
   true from the perspective of having effective galvanic
 isolation, but 
   there are a couple of design issues that come to mind.
 In order for 
   galvanic isolation to work, all wiring grounds to the
 boat must be 
   interrupted by a galvanic isolator. This means that if
 there are two shore 

Re: Stus-List Signal K interface

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

while it may work for a while, those boxes are not designed to deal with the 
rather nasty environment of the boat's "12V".  First it is not 12V but higher 
(14+ when the engine is running), second it will have large voltage spikes on 
them. YMMV, just a thought.

Leslie.
Phoenix, C&C32 1983

On Wed, 10/28/15, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Signal K interface
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Kevin Driscoll" 
 Date: Wednesday, October 28, 2015, 1:48 PM
 
 Most wifi
 routers are 12v. Just cut off the 110v power brick. Did this
 on our router/boat. Works the same. 
 On Wed, Oct 28,
 2015 at 1:39 PM Graham Collins via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
   
 
   
   
 You didn't get in early enough, I got in line for
 $179.   :-) 
 
 Now I need a 12v WiFi router.
 
 Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 C&C 35-III #11
 On 2015-10-28 10:17 AM, Joel Aronson
   via CnC-List wrote:
 
 
 
   Just spent $200 on a flyer:
 
 
 
 
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1689846268/ikommunicate-gateway-enabling-the-internet-of-thin
 
 
 
 If it works it will convert NMEA to an open
 source.  
 
   
 
   
   -- 
 
   Joel 
 
 301 541 8551
 
   
   
 
   
   
 
   ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
   
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List IPad Question...

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

With due respect to all who contributed to this discussion, please note that 
"how many angels can dance on a pinhead?" has been answered a long time ago.  
Making ANY claims, pro/con, is not useful without a full disclosure of the 
context.

The GPS signal strength is well known and relatively constant at sea level.  
C/No: ~ 37 to 45dB-Hz.

What is different for every receiver/installation are the antenna gain and 
noise, front end noise temperature and filter bandwidth, the quantization 
schemes, the quality of signal processing, and so on.  So, please do not try to 
compare apples to tomatoes.  (Both are fruits, but)

I have a little knowledge of GPS, enough to make smart ass comments.  But I 
also been the telecommunication engineer on Topex that measured the sea level 
to centimeter accuracy using GPS.  That should be better then sleeping at a 
particular hotel.

Leslie
retired JPL engineer.


On Sat, 10/3/15, Tim Goodyear via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Tim Goodyear" 
 Date: Saturday, October 3, 2015, 4:28 PM
 
 Jerome,
 practical experience from several sources is very different
 to what you suggest.  It works.
 Tim
 
 On Oct 3,
 2015, at 6:11 PM, Jerome Tauber via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 OK - This is getting silly.  
 Do you really believe the tiny GPS chip and antenna in a
 cell phone or Ipad is going to outperform a dedicated
 handheld GPS and pick up signals where the handheld GPS will
 not without some sort of assistance.  For a navigation message to travel from 
the
 satellite to the receiver, they must be sent on a carrier
 frequency. In the original GPS design, two frequencies were
 utilized; one at 1575.42 MHz(10.23 MHz × 154) called L1;
 and a second at 1227.60 MHz (10.23 MHz × 120), called
 L2.  The satellite output is about 25 watts.  These
 signals are quite weak when they reach earth and will not
 penetrate the metal roof on your house or your car and may
 be attenuated by the fiberglass roof on your boat to the
 point where they may not be readable by an Iphone or
 Ipad.   That's why your handheld GPS will not work in
 your basement.   The only reason the Ipad or Iphone will
 work is that it is assisted.   Even it you don't have
 a cellular connection you probably have wifi in your house
 that is being used for the assist.  A typical
 A-GPS-enabled receiver will use a data connection
 (Internet, cellular
  or other) to contact the assistance server for aGPS
 information. If it 
 also has functioning autonomous GPS, it may use standalone
 GPS which does not depend on the wifi or
 cellular network but then must depend
 entirely on the GPS signal from the satellite and therefore
 will not work if that signal is not strong
 enough.
 Some A-GPS devices do not have the option of falling back to
 standalone or autonomous GPS.  Many
 mobile phones combine A-GPS and other location services
 including Wi-Fi Positioning System and cell and sometimes a
 hybrid positioning system.  Accurate
 location requires a fix on at least 3
  satellites, and these signals do not
 penetrate buildings (even the roof 
 of a car can attenuate the GPS
 signal to where it is not useful). So,
 if you are not in view of 3 
 satellites, A-GPS can estimate your location based on 2
 satellites plus 
 cell tower data (less accurate). If you aren't in view
 of at least 2 
 satellites, the iPhone uses internet
 WiFi  or cell-tower triangulation, which is 
 not very accurate.  Jerry
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Original
 Message-
 
 
 From: Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 
 
 To: cnc-list 
 
 
 Cc: Rick Brass 
 
 
 Sent: Sat, Oct 3, 2015 3:38 pm
 
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List IPad Question...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 #yiv9889789077
 
#yiv9889789077AOLMsgPart_1.yiv98897890771.yiv98897890772_deb30094-38d8-442d-9e83-af893f457651
 td{color:black;} _filtered #yiv9889789077 {panose-1:2 4 5 3
 5 4 6 3 2 4;} _filtered #yiv9889789077
 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
 _filtered #yiv9889789077 {font-family:Consolas;panose-1:2 11
 6 9 2 2 4 3 2 4;}#yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody p.yiv9889789077MsoNormal,
 #yiv9889789077 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody 
 li.yiv9889789077MsoNormal, #yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody  div.yiv9889789077MsoNormal 
 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}#yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody a:link, #yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody 
 span.yiv9889789077MsoHyperlink 
 {color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody a:visited, #yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody 
 span.yiv9889789077MsoHyperlinkFollowed 
 {color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}#yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody pre 
 {margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:10.0pt;}#yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody tt  {}#yiv9889789077
 .yiv9889789077aolReplacedBody
 span.yiv9889789077HTMLPreformattedChar

Re: Stus-List Trucking to Georgian Bay

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

If you do anything, and things go south you will have a problem assigning 
blame.  If you let them do everything relating to moving the boat; they are 
responsible.

I shipped a C&C from Boston to San Diego.  The damage (minor) was covered by 
the trucking company as they did all the work. (Apart from the fact that my 
time was valuable, moving the household too.)

Leslie.

On Thu, 10/1/15, Stevan Plavsa via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Trucking to Georgian Bay
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Cc: "Stevan Plavsa" 
 Date: Thursday, October 1, 2015, 6:51 AM
 
 Hi All,
 Suhana is moving!I'm loading her
 on a truck next Thursday and we're saying goodbye to
 Lake Ontario. It's been nice but we've done the
 Thousand Islands two years in a row and really want to get
 up to the North Channel. 
 I've never trucked a boat before. Anyone have
 some tips to share? I'm bringing her to a marina with a
 travel lift. They are taking the mast down and hauling. The
 trucking co is doing the loading, including the folded
 cradle. From there they're driving up to Midland to Bay
 Moorings Marina where their travel lift will bring her down
 and onto the cradle. The trucking co told me to keep my
 cradle pads in the locker so that they can get at them when
 they are there, but aside from that, no other tips. I'm
 sure there are things I'm not considering! Anyone have
 any recommendations or things to consider when trucking a
 boat? Mast lays down alongside the boat on their trailer,
 not on deck. I'm thinking about removing my stanchions
 and lifelines just because. 
 Anyone here at Bay Moorings Marina in Midland?
 That's where we'll be landing. Would be nice to know
 if any other listers are around. Would be great to have a
 brain to pick about anchorages and gotchas in the
 area.
 Cheers,Steve
 Suhana, C&C 32Toronto
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Hot water tank

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

those are 1.8 gpm (some ill guided federal law).  Still barely adequate.  0.5 
gpm would be a fast drip...

Leslie.
just went through an inspection routine here in SoCal.  The city is getting 
really picky...


On Wed, 9/2/15, Danny Haughey via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water tank
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Danny Haughey" 
 Date: Wednesday, September 2, 2015, 1:28 PM
 
 you won't, trust
 me!
  
 People want like 10 gals a minute to feel a luxurious
 shower.  those water saver heads are like .5 gals per
 minute and nobody "likes" those!  LOL
 
 -- Original Message
 --
 From: Jim Watts via CnC-List
 
 To: 1 CnC List
 
 Cc: Jim Watts
 
 Subject: Re:
 Stus-List Hot water tank
 Date: Wed, 2 Sep
 2015 13:03:35 -0700
 
 
 The big downside to the instant water
 heaters, besides the electrical draw, is the total
 temperature rise. That unit provides a 32 degree temp rise
 at .35 gpm, dropping to 24 degree rise at .5 gpm, so the
 more flow the cooler it gets. So you can get the water from
 60 to 92 if you can live with a quart a minute flow. Try
 that at home and see if you like it...
 
 
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C&C 35 Mk
 III
 Victoria, BC
 
 
 
 On 2 September 2015 at
 11:50, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 I usually wire inverters to not
 supply the battery charger and water heater.
 You may want to change your AC
 wiring to do this.
  Joe
 Coquina
  
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Ron Ricci via CnC-List
  Sent: Wednesday, September
 02, 2015 1:41 PM
  To:
 'C&C List'
  Cc:
 Ron Ricci
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Hot water
 tank
 
 
  
 My boat has a combination 120
 VAC 1.5 kW electric/engine coolant hot water heater.  It
 holds 6 gallons of fresh water.  For grins, I tried it on
 the battery/inverter and it drew 117 amps DC.  This is
 consistent with the unit’s rating as the battery voltage
 dropped below 12 VDC when tried.  Since my alternator can
 only put out 55 amps and the battery cables are only #4 AWG,
 running the heater  with shore power does not seem
 practical.  I do not normally have AC shore power.  To
 prevent inadvertently turning on the heater, I disconnected
 the power feed at the circuit breaker.
 
 
  
 The engine coolant part of the
 heater works great.  We can run the engine in the afternoon
 to recharge batteries and/or go to a mooring.  There is
 plenty of hot water for dinner dishes and a couple of quick
 showers.
  
  
 Regards,
 Ron
 Ron Ricci
 S/V Patriot
 C&C 37+
 Bristol, RI
 ron.ri...@1968.usna.com
  
  
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
  
  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
  
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Autopilot steering

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

minor correction:  The autohelm motor will use power to keep a steady pressure 
against the rudder.  Else the rudder will move and the direction lost.  (steady 
use of power but no work done, heating the universe...)

Leslie.
Phoenix, C&C32 1983.


  The autohelm motor should adjust the helm to steer
 that course and idle off, so no power being consumed until
 the course changes. 


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

in fresh water your boat sits lower.   ;-)

Leslie.


On Wed, 8/19/15, William Hall via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery question for LF38 owners
 To: "cnc-list" 
 Cc: "William Hall" 
 Date: Wednesday, August 19, 2015, 7:33 AM
 
 My C&C
 37 has the house batteries in about that same place.  Easy
 to get to.  The only issue is that between batteries,
 inverter, radome etc, the boat sits a little low in the
 stern, leading to growth on the gel coat just above the
 bottom paint.  My solution was to move to
 freshwater!
 BillStarfire1985
 C&C 37Now in Ludington, MI
 On Wed, Aug 19, 2015 at
 10:20 AM, Robert Boyer via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 I put two extra batteries on a
 shelf I build in the starboard cockpit locker against the
 forward bulkhead.  I used sealed batteries throughout so
 those two that are a bitch to get to won't need much
 attention.
 Bob
 On Aug 19, 2015, at 10:14 AM, Rick
 Brass via CnC-List wrote:
 I'm helping a friend move his LF38 to
 NC, and along the way we are making up a project list. The
 boat will be used for live aboard cruising.
 
 The current setup has one new
 start battery as bank 1, and two old batteries in parallel
 as the house bank 2. The old house batteries need to be
 replaced in the next couple of weeks, and we would like to
 maximize the AHR capacity and try to increase the number of
 batteries in the house bank. 
 
 The start battery is in the locker under the
 front half of the quarter berth. The house batteries are on
 a shelf on the port side of the engine compartment (and are
 a bitch to get to). There is no room for more batteries on
 the shelf.
 
 So where have
 you guys installed additional batteries to increase the size
 of you house bank?
 
 Rick
 Brass
 Jim Schwartz
 s/v Sea
 Ya
 1983 LF38 Hull # 105
 
 Sent from my iPad
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 Bob Boyer
 S/V
 Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
 email: dainyrays@icloud.comblog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
 
 "There is
 nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
 simply messing about in boats." --Kenneth
 Grahame
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -- 
 William D. Hall, Ph.D.
 617 620
 9078 (c)
 wh...@alum.mit.edu
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Yanmar question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Thanks,  Leslie


On Tue, 8/11/15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Yanmar question
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Josh Muckley" 
 Date: Tuesday, August 11, 2015, 11:28 AM
 
 Yes it
 should rotate.  I think mine is held on with a cotter pin
 or a clip.
 Josh Muckley
 
 S/V Sea Hawk
 
 1989 C&C 37+
 
 Solomons, MD
 
 Yanmar 3HM35F
 On Aug 11, 2015 2:25 PM,
 "Leslie Paal via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 The
 "kill" cable broke on my 2GM20, at the engine
 end.  The cause (I think) was that as the arm moved the
 wire was flexing where it was clamped to the arm.  My
 question: should that clamp (square block of metal with a
 hole for the wire and a screw to clamp) rotate in the arm. 
 Mine does not.  Can be because of corrosion, does not want
 to force it if it does not meant to rotate...
 
 
 
 Thanks,  Leslie.
 
 Phoenix, C&C32 (1983)
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Yanmar question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

The "kill" cable broke on my 2GM20, at the engine end.  The cause (I think) was 
that as the arm moved the wire was flexing where it was clamped to the arm.  My 
question: should that clamp (square block of metal with a hole for the wire and 
a screw to clamp) rotate in the arm.  Mine does not.  Can be because of 
corrosion, does not want to force it if it does not meant to rotate...

Thanks,  Leslie.
Phoenix, C&C32 (1983)



___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Universal Engine panel wiring

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

To run 10 amps through the glow plugs they can not be more than 1.2 ohms, from 
a 12V battery.  A couple thousand ohms would allow only 6 mA, barely enough to 
lite a LED...   ;-)

Leslie.
(one of my degrees is EE.)


 down the starting voltage. When you power the glow plugs you
 are running ten amps or so across a couple thousand ohms of
 resistance to create heat. If your battery is OK, and of


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I second that!

Leslie.


On Thu, 8/6/15, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Off topic Windows 10
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Edd Schillay" 
 Date: Thursday, August 6, 2015, 6:59 AM
 
 Joel,
 To
 re-purpose and rephrase an old saying… Once you go Mac,
 you never go back. 
 My take on Windows: http://i.ytimg.com/vi/qMXpyxW2lkk/hqdefault.jpg 
 
 
 All the
 best,
 Edd
 
 Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-BCity Island,
 NY Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 On Aug
 6, 2015, at 9:18 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 I
 installed Windows 10 onto my Lenovo laptop with Win 7,
  Install was flawless. Made sure that OpenCPN runs as well
 as Office apps.  The new browser will import bookmarks from
 another browser in seconds.  I did not have a chance to
 play with it much, but first look is very positive.
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list
 preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Howling rigging

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Theodore_von_K%C3%A1rm%C3%A1n
von Karman was Hungarian.  I spent many hours in an auditorium named after him 
at JPL.

Leslie.


On Sat, 8/1/15, Don Wagner via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Howling rigging
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Don Wagner" 
 Date: Saturday, August 1, 2015, 6:40 AM
 
 
 
 
 The vibrations and the singing noises that you have
 observed are 
 classical  examples of vortex shedding. They were
 originally described by a 
 German fluid dynamics engineer, Theodore von Karmann.
 If you are interested, do a search on “vortex
 shedding”. Wikipeda has a 
 good description of the phenomena with some pix.  You might
 also search “ 
 von Karmann vortex street”
  
 I’ve experienced it in my rigging, and occasionally
 from my centerboard at 
 certain wind speeds or boat speeds
  
 Don Wagner
 C&C 41 CB 
 Der Baron
 
 
  
 
 From: Joel Aronson
 via CnC-List 
 Sent: Saturday, August 01, 2015 2:39 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Joel
 Aronson 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Howling
 rigging
  
 Had 
 a similar hum while coming back from Newport.  The engineer
 on board put a 
 clothes pin on the shroud to change the harmonics. Worked
 for several 
 hours.  
  
 Joel
 
 On Saturday,
 August 1, 2015, Russ & Melody via CnC-List 
 
 
 wrote:
 
 
   
 Don't listen to him, Jim.  I
 can tell he's just making things 
   up. The name was Peat and we don't have pints of
 rum... maybe a litre or two. 
   
 
 And to settle the ghost,
 try hoisting a fender alongside the mast 
   about half way up. You will be amazed how it can settle
 the rig if you have 
   oscillation. I had to do just that at the Boho Bash, 4
 weeks ago.
 
 Go 
   ogle vortex breaker. 
 
     
   Cheers, Russ
     
   Sweet 35 mk-1
 
 At
 09:56 PM 31/07/2015, you wrote:
 
   Dennis, where the hell did you
 come up with 
 that?
 
 Jim Watts
 Paradigm Shift
 C&C 35 Mk
 III
 Victoria, 
 BC
 
 On 31 July 2015 at
 21:04, Dennis C. via CnC-List 

 
 wrote:
 
 It's the ghost of Penelakut Pete.  He
 drowned in Clam Bay when 
   he fell overboard after consuming a few pints of
 rum.  Legend says 
   he only comes out on breezy nights.
 
 
   Dennis C.
 
   Touche' 35-1 #83
 
   Mandeville, LA
 
 
   On Fri, Jul 31, 2015 at 9:26 PM, Jim Watts
 via CnC-List 
 
   wrote:
 
   On our latest trip north, we anchored in Clam
 Bay and had a strange 
 problem. At a certain wind speed, the shrouds would
 start to hum, 
 sometimes making the boat shake with vibration. The
 major vibration was 
 felt in the small rod running to the underside of
 the upper spreaders 
 and in the mast and backstay.  I backed each
 shroud one off half a 
 turn and it really didn't do much except make
 those shrouds look loose 
 to me, but I'm sure I can't tell the
 difference of 1/128th of an inch. 
 It eventually faded as the wind dropped. 
 
 For the next ten days, in all sorts of
 conditions, we didn't hear 
 it, but when we anchored in the same bay 10 days
 later, we got it again. 
 
 
 Any explanation except witchcraft?
 
 Â 
 
 Jim Watts
 
 Paradigm Shift
 
 C&C 35 Mk III
 
 Victoria, BC
 
 

 ___
 
 
 Email address:
 
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');
 
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to 
 the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 

 ___
 
 
 Email address:
 
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');
 
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the 
 bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email 
 address:
 javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','CnC-List@cnc-list.com');
 To 
 change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of 
 page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 

 
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301
 541 
 8551
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email 
 address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including 
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page 
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, i

Re: Stus-List Boat time and weather

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I doubt that the bolts loosened, most likely the goop squeezed out and now not 
compressed...

Leslie
collected 'plenty' of squeezed out goop from the shelf under.
Phoenix, C&C32 (1983)
Long Beach CA.

On Mon, 7/13/15, David via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat time and weather
 To: "CNC CNC" 
 Cc: "David" 
 Date: Monday, July 13, 2015, 6:53 AM
 
 #yiv620107
 #yiv620107 --
 .yiv620107hmmessage P
 {
 margin:0px;padding:0px;}
 #yiv620107 body.yiv620107hmmessage
 {
 font-size:12pt;font-family:Calibri;}
 #yiv620107 Martin
 & Jake,
 
 Thanks for the
 advice.   My God there must be 100 bolts per side.
 
 Fun job that will be...
 
 David F. Risch
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
 
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Fri, 10 Jul 2015 22:00:02 +
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat time and weather
 From: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 CC:
 mdeyo...@deyoungmfg.com
 
 
 
 
 
 #yiv620107 #yiv620107 --
 .yiv620107ExternalClass p.yiv620107ecxMsoNormal,
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 li.yiv620107ecxMsoNormal, #yiv620107
 .yiv620107ExternalClass div.yiv620107ecxMsoNormal {
 font-size:12.0pt;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass a:link,
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 span.yiv620107ecxMsoHyperlink {
 color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 span.yiv620107ecxMsoHyperlinkFollowed {
 color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass p {
 font-size:12.0pt;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass tt {
 }
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 p.yiv620107ecxMsoAcetate, #yiv620107
 .yiv620107ExternalClass li.yiv620107ecxMsoAcetate,
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 div.yiv620107ecxMsoAcetate {
 font-size:8.0pt;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 span.yiv620107ecxBalloonTextChar {
 }
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 span.yiv620107ecxEmailStyle21 {
 color:#1F497D;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 span.yiv620107ecxEmailStyle22 {
 color:#1F497D;font-weight:normal;font-style:normal;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 .yiv620107ecxMsoChpDefault {
 font-size:10.0pt;}
 
 #yiv620107 .yiv620107ExternalClass
 div.yiv620107ecxWordSection1 {
 }
 
 #yiv620107 
 
 
 
 >… move the nut one or two
 flats to keep them torqued.
  
 This was my experience on
 Calypso’s hull-to-deck joint also.  About 10% of the
 bolts needed a few more flats worth of rotation maybe up to
 ¾ turn.
  
 I did not need to hold the screw
 heads as the decades of salt water exposure have effectively
 frozen them tight.  I was not able to tighten all the bolts
 as some
  are buried in the fiberglass tabbing around bulkheads.  I
 am assuming those have not loosened.
  
 
 Martin DeYoung
 Calypso
 1971 C&C 43
 Seattle
 
 
 
 
  
 
 
 From: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Jake Brodersen via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Friday, July 10, 2015 2:47 PM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Cc: Jake Brodersen
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat time and
 weather
 
 
  
 David,
  
 Glad you made it through without
 too much damage.  The hull-to-deck joint needs to be snug,
 but not super tight either.  You don’t want to squeeze
 all of the
  butyl out of the seam.  I use a small ½” wrench and try
 to keep all of the bolts at about the same torque.  It
 helps to have someone on deck to hold the screw head
 stationary.  I’ve usually only had to move the nut one or
 two flats to keep them torqued.  I
  don’t do it often either.
  
 Jake
  
 Jake
 Brodersen
 “Midnight Mistress”
 C&C 35 Mk-III
 Hampton VA
  
  
  
 
 
 From: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of David via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Friday, July 10, 2015 9:16 AM
 
 To: CNC CNC
 
 Cc: David
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Boat time and
 weather
 
 
  
 
 Rich,
 
 
 
 Not much went wrong.  Freshwater pump fried, baby stay car
 bolts sheared, broken head lid, wind unit at mast head
 deciding to go sideways (huh?), and not much else.  
 
 
 
 
 But...the boat was wet.   I thought I had buttoned her up
 for the 2011 race, but the Gulf Stream really worked
 her.   We were in the SE meander for 15+ hours and it was
 rough with high winds (30-50) and cross seas.   The hull
 to deck joint, submerged often
  by heeling and solid water over the decks, deposited water
 in lockers (the most, of course, in my sons locker where he
 stowed his laptop...ugh).  
 
 
 
 
 I would like some feedback from the group as to how much I
 should tighten each bolt...1/2 turn?  Full turn?  
 
 
 
 
 David F. Risch
 
 1981 40-2
 
 (401) 419-4650 (cell)
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_

Re: Stus-List Universal M-35 Water Heater Hose Size?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

not very big.

;-)

Leslie.


On Mon, 6/8/15, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Universal M-35 Water Heater Hose Size?
 To: "C&C List" 
 Cc: "Edd Schillay" 
 Date: Monday, June 8, 2015, 8:40 AM
 
 Listers,
 Does anyone know, off hand, the size
 of the hoses that run from a Universal M-35 to the hot water
 heater? 
 
 
 All the
 best,
 Edd
 
 Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-BCity Island,
 NY Starship Enterprise's
 Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Stus-List Looking for a ride....

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I'll be in the Montreal area from the 26th to June 3 sightseeing.  If anyone 
can use an extra hand on a day-sail, I'll happily come along with some adult 
refreshments.

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32 1983
Alamitos Bay, California


___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

If you follow the recommendation you will be using the house bank for starting 
the engine. Not what you had in mind, I think.  Replace the orange wire with a 
run to the house bank, properly switched/fused.

Leslie.

On Mon, 5/4/15, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Alternator Output Question
 To: "Joe Della Barba" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, May 4, 2015, 2:35 PM
 
 Joe,
 I’m
 99% sure too, but it reminds me of cutting the wrong wire in
 all those action movies. Snip and the bomb
 explodes…. 
 According to the third posting on this
 page — http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/universal_wiring_harness_upgrade —
 he says cut the orange wire and replace it with a heavier
 gauge wire between the alternator and the starter, but then
 recommends (as I am planning) to run the wire to your house
 bank and use an ACR. 
 Am I missing anything? What’s the
 word on the street?? (Fred Street, I mean) 
 
 All the
 best,
 Edd
 
 Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-BCity Island,
 NY Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
 
 On
 May 4, 2015, at 5:24 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 I am 99% sure it is the
 orange wire labeled Positive Output next to the AC
 tap.It will take a little
 more doing than just moving a wire. I’ll try and trace
 that diagram out when I get a chance.  Joe Della
 barba...@dellabarba.com CoquinaC&C 35 MK
 IFrom: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Edd
 Schillay via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday,
 May 04, 2015 1:45 PM
 To: C&C
 List
 Subject: Stus-List
 Alternator Output Question  
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

unpredictable.  The over current can weld the contacts, permanently on.  Or it 
can burn the contact surface and leave some "ash" that stops making electrical 
contact, permanently off. It depends on the conditions in THAT fraction of the 
second. 

Leslie.

On Tue, 4/7/15, Robert Boyer  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme
 To: "Leslie Paal" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Cc: "Russ & Melody" 
 Date: Tuesday, April 7, 2015, 10:23 AM
 
 What do we
 know about the failure modes of these devices?  
 Bob
 On Apr 7, 2015, at
 12:18 PM, Leslie Paal via CnC-List wrote:
 to limit the maximum current between the
 battery banks, it protects the relay contacts.
  'They' calculated what resistance is needed not to
 exceed the contacts rating.  Simplest solution; a wire that
 limits the current by its resistance.
 
 You are correct that when the goal is to get
 the juice to a piece of gear fatter cable, shorter run is
 better.
 
 Leslie.
 
 On Mon, 4/6/15, Russ & Melody via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
  Subject: Re:
 Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Date: Monday, April 6, 2015, 6:40 PM
 
 
 
  Hi Leslie,
 
 
  Why would you max size a wire
 spec? 
 
 
  I
 can't think of any practical situation where a little
  too big is not
  good and the
 shorter runs are better too.
 
 
    Cheers,
  Russ
 
 
  Sweet
  35 mk-1
 
 
 
 
  At 05:33 PM 06/04/2015, you
 wrote:
 
  minor addition, the
 charge
  current is limited by the
 recommended wiring between the
  banks. 
  From memory, a minimum length of 6 feet and
 maximum size of
  6 SWG. 
 
 (please check before using this info.) Leslie Phoenix
  C&C32 1983
 
 
 
  -Inline
 Attachment Follows-
 
 
 ___
 
  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing --
  go to the bottom of page
 at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 Bob Boyer
 S/V
 Rainy Days (1983 C&C Landfall 38 - Hull #230)
 email: dainyrays@icloud.comblog: dainyrays.blogspot.com
 
 "There is
 nothing--absolutely nothing--half so much worth doing as
 simply messing about in boats." --Kenneth
 Grahame
 
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

to limit the maximum current between the battery banks, it protects the relay 
contacts.  'They' calculated what resistance is needed not to exceed the 
contacts rating.  Simplest solution; a wire that limits the current by its 
resistance.

You are correct that when the goal is to get the juice to a piece of gear 
fatter cable, shorter run is better.

Leslie.

On Mon, 4/6/15, Russ & Melody via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, April 6, 2015, 6:40 PM
 
 
 
 Hi Leslie,
 
 
 Why would you max size a wire spec? 
 
 
 I can't think of any practical situation where a little
 too big is not
 good and the shorter runs are better too.
 
 
   Cheers,
 Russ
 
  Sweet
 35 mk-1
 
 
 
 
 At 05:33 PM 06/04/2015, you wrote:
 
 minor addition, the charge
 current is limited by the recommended wiring between the
 banks. 
 From memory, a minimum length of 6 feet and maximum size of
 6 SWG. 
 (please check before using this info.) Leslie Phoenix
 C&C32 1983
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

minor addition, the charge current is limited by the recommended wiring between 
the banks.  From memory, a minimum length of 6 feet and maximum size of 6 SWG.  
(please check before using this info.)

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Mon, 4/6/15, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme
 To: "'Alex Giannelia'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Monday, April 6, 2015, 1:31 PM
 
 ACR=Automatic Charge
 Relay
 
 For Blue Sea
 components, it is an relay that is wired between two
 batteries (or banks) and is normally open. When one of the
 banks is at a charging voltage (something over 13v, IIRC,
 which indicates that a charging source is present) and the
 other battery is partially depleted (under something like
 12.2 or 12.3, IIRC) the relay closes and lets current flow
 from the high voltage source bank to the low voltage bank.
 If the batteries are both in the 12v range, the ACR stays
 open. If one of the batteries is really low, which would
 indicate a bad battery or a short or cause high current
 flow, the ACR will not close. 
 
 Unlike an Echo Charger, current flow is
 determined by voltage differential and not limited by the
 ACR. Also unlike an Echo Charger, the current will flow
 either way from high to low - an Echo Charger is a one way
 device.
 
 
 Rick Brass
 Washington, NC
 
 
 
 -Original Message-
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, April 06, 2015 8:25 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring
 Diagramme
 
 What is ACR?
 
 Thanks,
 
 Alex
 
 Alex
 Giannelia
 a...@airsensing.com
 +1 (416) 203-9858 Office
 +1
 (416) 529-0070 Mobile
 www.airsensing.com
 
 -Original Message-
 From: Leslie Paal [mailto:lpaalc...@yahoo.com]
 
 Sent: April-05-15 10:53 PM
 To: Alex Giannelia; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring
 Diagramme
 
 no such thing as
 a dumb question.  We all learning all the time, some of us
 know more on a subject than others and I am sure those in
 the know will help
 
 Leslie
 Phoenix C&C32
 1983
 
 On Sat, 4/4/15, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
  Subject: Stus-List
 Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme
  To:
 "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"
 
  Date: Saturday, April 4, 2015, 8:21 AM
  
  Hi Edd,  I love your
 diagramme and
  will be lurking on this list
 to get answers of my own.  Mine is a bit simpler than
 yours, but I plan to re-wire my  AC/DC stuff after having
 my electric motor put in and will  be re-wiring everything
 to replace the old companionway  panel with a Nav station
 panel and cockpit sub panel and all  the old wires with new
 tinned ones.  So, I will compose my  questions to you
 first, then later when back from the  boat.    My boat
 will, out of space  etc and personal leanings be a bit less
 ambitious than  yours, but am intrigued with all the
 devices.  So, if you don’t mind a  pile of dumb
 questions, let me fire away.  Regards,  Alexander M.
  GianneliaPresident  the airborne sensing
  corporation555 Richmond Street West, Suite 
 912, PO Box 1008, Toronto, Ontario M5V 3B1,  Canada 
 Phone    (416)  203-9858Mobile    (416) 
 529-0070Fax
  (416) 203-9843
   *Notre site web est
  aussi
 disponible en français! www.airsensing.com
   
  -Inline Attachment
 Follows-
  
 
 ___
  
  Email address:
  CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing --  go to the bottom of page at:
  http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
  
  
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

just to split hairs, the link forgot one, important thing.  The coil is 
connected to a spring and the current introduced force is acting against the 
spring.  More current more force bigger deflection.  If the spring was not 
there the needle would be pegged against the end stop and 'never' come back.

Leslie.
(finally some use for my science degrees) ;-)


On Sat, 4/4/15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story
 To: "C&C List" , "Marek Dziedzic" 

 Date: Saturday, April 4, 2015, 9:53 PM
 
 
 
 Excerpt from the following link:
 
 http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-does-an-analog-voltmeter-work
 An analog voltmeter works by passing a current
 through a coil that is suspended between two permanent
 magnets. This coil of wire is known as a moving coil since
 it moves in relation to the permanent magnets when a voltage
 is applied. When a voltage is applied and the voltage scale
 is chosen, a resistor of known value is placed in series
 with the measurement leads. This way Ohm’s Law can be
 applied. The applied voltage through the coil creates a
 magnetic field which acts against the permanent magnets that
 the pointer pivot is placed between. This magnetic field
 causes a corresponding deflection of the pointer. This
 pointer deflection will be in direct proportion to the
 amount of voltage being applied to the moving coil wrapping
 the pointer pivot. Once pointer oscillation has stopped,
 accurate readings can be made.
 
 So to summerize:  Yes Marek, basic analog
 meter movement is caused by current flow through the meter
 coil.
 I suppose in a a way that makes all anaolog
 coil meters "current" meters.  I referred to the
 fuel gage as a voltage meter so as to suggest that with the
 meter completely removed from the boat a "voltage"
 applied across the terminals from sense to ground or sense
 to vcc (+12v terminal) would cause meter deflection.  In
 order to troubleshoot one might select a common 6v lantern
 battery for this task.
 Using the attached drawing as a referance and
 understanding that R2 is the fuel level sender and
 "D" is the sender "sensing" terminal on
 the meter.  I believe that inadvertently swapping the +12v
 and sense lines or swapping the ground and +12v lines would
 cause the symptom of the fuel gage needle pegging low.
 To both our points, the attached picture
 suggests that the meter being used is a voltage meter (Vg)
 and referances the current from points D to B (Ig) as
 driving its movement.
 Josh
 On Apr 4, 2015 10:40
 PM, "Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Josh,
 
 
 
 This is certainly not sailing related, but if i remember it
 correctly, they are all really ammeters (the current flowing
 through them creates the magnetic field that moves the
 needle). 
 
 
 
 
 Marek
 
 
 
 
 Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 All analog meters are just measuring the
 "voltage drop" across a resistance.  The key is
 to have the appropriate voltage input +12v.  If the +12v
 and the sensing line were reversed then the "voltage
 drop" would be "negative" driving the needle
  to the empty peg.
 Josh
 On Apr 4, 2015 7:08 PM, "Wally Bryant via
 CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 
 
 I thought they were Ohm meters. Anyway, I just Googled it to
 make sure, and see a ton of pages on testing marine fuel
 sender resistance.
 
 
 
 Wal
 
 
 
 you wrote:
 
 
 I agree with your diagnosis.  It's gotta be reversed
 polarity...of the
 
 sense and gnd.  Fundamentally the fuel gages are just
 voltage meters.  They
 
 respond proportionally to the voltage drop across the
 variable resistance
 
 in the sender.  I would disconnect the leads and use an ohm
 meter to
 
 measure and validate the resistance of the senders. 
 Switching the polarity
 
 of the sense and gnd monetarily probably won't break
 anything.  Before
 
 doing so validate that your wiring looks like the attached
 picture.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.

Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

they measure the current.  I don't think you notice any real voltage drop on 
the battery when the fuel level changes...  ;-)

You are correct about the reversed polarity.

Leslie.


On Sat, 4/4/15, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story
 To: w...@wbryant.com, "C&C List" 
 Date: Saturday, April 4, 2015, 6:13 PM
 
 All analog
 meters are just measuring the "voltage drop"
 across a resistance.  The key is to have the appropriate
 voltage input +12v.  If the +12v and the sensing line were
 reversed then the "voltage drop" would be
 "negative" driving the needle to the empty
 peg.
 Josh
 On Apr 4, 2015 7:08 PM,
 "Wally Bryant via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 I thought
 they were Ohm meters. Anyway, I just Googled it to make
 sure, and see a ton of pages on testing marine fuel sender
 resistance.
 
 
 
 Wal
 
 
 
 you wrote:
 
 
 I agree with your diagnosis.  It's gotta be reversed
 polarity...of the
 
 sense and gnd.  Fundamentally the fuel gages are just
 voltage meters.  They
 
 respond proportionally to the voltage drop across the
 variable resistance
 
 in the sender.  I would disconnect the leads and use an ohm
 meter to
 
 measure and validate the resistance of the senders. 
 Switching the polarity
 
 of the sense and gnd monetarily probably won't break
 anything.  Before
 
 doing so validate that your wiring looks like the attached
 picture.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

strictly speaking the fuel gauge measures current.  ;-)

Leslie.


On Sat, 4/4/15, Wally Bryant via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Problem with 2 new fuel gauges...long story
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Saturday, April 4, 2015, 4:07 PM
 
 I thought they were Ohm
 meters. Anyway, I just Googled it to make sure, 
 and see a ton of pages on testing marine fuel
 sender resistance.
 
 Wal
 
 you wrote:
 > I agree with
 your diagnosis.  It's gotta be reversed polarity...of
 the
 > sense and gnd.  Fundamentally the
 fuel gages are just voltage meters.  They
 > respond proportionally to the voltage drop
 across the variable resistance
 > in the
 sender.  I would disconnect the leads and use an ohm meter
 to
 > measure and validate the resistance
 of the senders.  Switching the polarity
 > of the sense and gnd monetarily probably
 won't break anything.  Before
 >
 doing so validate that your wiring looks like the attached
 picture.
 
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

no such thing as a dumb question.  We all learning all the time, some of us 
know more on a subject than others and I am sure those in the know will help

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32 1983

On Sat, 4/4/15, Alex Giannelia via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Ed Shillay's Wiring Diagramme
 To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 
 Date: Saturday, April 4, 2015, 8:21 AM
 
 Hi Edd,  I love your diagramme and
 will be lurking on this list to get answers of my own. 
 Mine is a bit simpler than yours, but I plan to re-wire my
 AC/DC stuff after having my electric motor put in and will
 be re-wiring everything to replace the old companionway
 panel with a Nav station panel and cockpit sub panel and all
 the old wires with new tinned ones.  So, I will compose my
 questions to you first, then later when back from the
 boat.    My boat will, out of space
 etc and personal leanings be a bit less ambitious than
 yours, but am intrigued with all the devices.  So, if you don’t mind a
 pile of dumb questions, let me fire away.  Regards,  Alexander M.
 GianneliaPresident  the airborne sensing
 corporation555 Richmond Street West, Suite
 912, PO Box 1008, Toronto, Ontario M5V 3B1,
 Canada  Phone    (416)
 203-9858Mobile    (416)
 529-0070Fax 
 (416) 203-9843
  *Notre site web est
 aussi disponible en français! www.airsensing.com
  
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I've seen a 'friend' modifying a bolt-cutter's jaws to crimp.  He did a major 
electric refit and I have not seen him working on the electric since, about 6 
years.  I can ask him.

Leslie
Phoenix, C&C32 1983


On Wed, 3/25/15, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Tool(s) Recommendation for Battery Cable
 To: "C&C List" 
 Date: Wednesday, March 25, 2015, 2:00 PM
 
 Listers,
 Does anyone have a good recommendation
 for a tool (or tools) for cutting and for crimping terminals
 onto #6 and/or #4 battery cable? 
 
 
 All the
 best,
 Edd
 
 Edd M. SchillayStarship EnterpriseC&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-BCity Island,
 NY Starship Enterprise's
 Captain's Log
 
 
 
 
 
 

 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

+ Yes 

I'm in for 2.

Leslie.

On Tue, 3/17/15, Robert Hrabinsky via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C ball caps
 To: "Bradley Lumgair" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Tuesday, March 17, 2015, 7:54 PM
 
 I never
 write in all caps, but YES! 
 I would order 3  ball caps, if
 available. 
 Robert H. 
 
 Sent
 from my Samsung device
 
  Original message 
 From: Bradley Lumgair via CnC-List
  
 Date: 03-17-2015  7:50 PM  (GMT-08:00) 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
 Subject: Stus-List C&C ball caps 
 
 I keep checking back to see if the status on the ball caps
 has changed, anyone else want a C&C ballcap? Does it
 require a large order to have some made? How about a
 pre-order? I'm in for 2 
 
 Sent, miraculously through cyberspace, 
 from my iPad!
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Traveler Blocks on 38-3

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

I replaced with new Garhauer traveler (track, car, etc.).  The new track is 
higher profile and does not need the channel, went with Guido's recommendation. 
 More than 10 years trouble free.  The track is longer than before.  I used 
heavier bolts and washers.

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32 1983


On Thu, 3/5/15, Douglas Mountjoy via CnC-List  wrote:
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Traveler Blocks on 38-3
 To: "Mike Flannery" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Thursday, March 5, 2015, 10:24 AM
 
 On Pegasus I just installed a new
 Garhauer traveler. I used the original bridge but added a
 1" square tube to space it above the channel the
 original was in. Guido drilled the new track to fit my
 bridge (holes in different places, all screws busted off).
 
 Doug
 sv
 Pegasus
 LF38 hull #4
 
 On Thu,
 Mar 5, 2015 at 9:36 AM, Mike Flannery via CnC-List 
 wrote:
   Has anyone
 replaced the traveler system or found alternate blocks.  So
 cramped in there?
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

if you keep the paper on the acrylic, the suction will be lost quite fast.

Leslie.
 

On Tue, 2/17/15, Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Portlight Replacement with VHB Tape & Dow 795
 To: "Dr. Mark Bodnar" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com, 
rph2m...@yahoo.com
 Date: Tuesday, February 17, 2015, 9:08 PM
 
 When I do
 this project I plan on using a glass suction cup or likely
 two from the inside and tie them off somewhere under load.
 In my opinion using these in tension while provide a much
 more even and stronger load across the portlights, keeping
 them in place while they cure. I prefer to keep my stantions
 for what they were intended, keeping the lifelines in place
 for an emergency.
 This: http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product/FAST-CAP-Suction-Cup-Lifter-3KNF1
 or similar product as was already mentioned.
 
 On
 Tue, Feb 17, 2015, 8:40 PM Dr. Mark Bodnar via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 Robert,
 
 Thanks for further input. My plan is to follow the same
 idea. I like your keyhole idea to locate the window
 effectively. 
 
 One question - did you tape the window in place and then add
 the 795 into the gap? Or did you put some 795 on the back of
 the acrylic (or the cabin side)?  I feel like I'd like
 to get more 795 in begins the acrylic - but maybe the point
 is that the tape provides the holding power and the 795 is
 just waterproofing sealant. 
 
 
 
 Mark
 
 On February
 17, 2015 2:22:57 PM AST, "Robert H. via CnC-List"
 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
 
 I am
 writing to update on my portlight replacement
 project.
 The
 installation went perfectly and the portlight looks
 great.
 Applying a few
 wood blocks to the inside of the portlight with removable,
 double-sided poster tape was a very effective way to affix
 the portlight in proper alignment. It slid into position
 like a puzzle piece, which is good because you only get one
 crack at it with the VHB tape.
 I also have a very good feeling
 about the VHB / DC 795 method - though time will be the
 ultimate judge. I am comforted by the thought that the tape
 and DC 795 will allow the portlight to expand and contract
 with heat and cold at a different rate that the cabin top
 without breaking the bond (in theory,
 anyway).
 For those
 that are thinking of using the same technique, here’s one
 final tip and a few comments.
 The tip: I had good success
 using a couple of telescoping hiking poles to apply
 pressure to the portlight by bracing them against the
 lifelines while the VHB tape set up. I also used a heat gun
 to warm up the cabin top before applying the
 portlight.
 I have no
 leaks in any of the other portlights (yet), so I’m going
 to wait until the weather warms up before I start on them. I
 learned that the initial bond of the VHB tape is dependent
 on both the application of continuous pressure and the
 ambient temperature. The 3M data sheet does a better job of
 explaining this than I will. Once you have a solid bond,
 it will hold well even in cold conditions, but you will be
 doing yourself a favour if you wait for warmer
 conditions.
 
 Sent from Windows Mail
 From: RPH via
 CnC-List
 Sent: ‎Sunday‎,
 ‎February‎ ‎15‎, ‎2015 ‎9‎:‎06‎ ‎AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 I have been reading
 the recent posts about windows and I thought that some might
 be interested to hear of my experience replacing the
 portlights on
 my 1989 30 MKII. Please note that I just started the on-boat
 part of the project yesterday and the work is not yet
 complete. 
 In late
 fall I made tracings of the portlights which I transfered to
 1/2 inch ply. The templates were cut using a circular saw
 with a guide rail system and a router. I then took my
 templates to a local plastics manufacturer, and they made
 the portlights from 1/4 inch plexiglass (Bronze 2404). The
 edges of the portlights are bevelled at 22.5 degrees (if I
 remember correctly). They turned out to be very good
 reproductions of the factory portlights. 
 To ready myself for the project, I
 also purchased 36 yards of 3M VHB 4991 Tape 1/2" x
 2.3mm,  4 tubes of Dow 795 structural adhesive (I chose
 white over black), and a can of DEI 010301 Black
 High-Temperature Silicone Coating exhaust
 paint. 
 Yesterday, I
 attended at the boat with a view to replacing only the
 aft, starboard portlight (because I didn't want to bite
 off more than I could chew). I knew that the factory
 portlights were glued on with a methacrylate adhesive and
 that they would be difficult to remove. I brought my Dremel
 Multimax (which is like a Fein Multimaster) and tried using
 a flexible scraper to get between the plexi and the cabin
 top. This was not effective. In the end, I used several
 small putty knives which easily removed the
 portlight. 
 What the
 putty knives did not remove was the remnants of the
 methacrylate adhesive. I tried several different techniques
 to remove the adhesive but ultimately decided that the
 better course would be to fair the area with 3m Premium

Re: Stus-List Navtec pump service

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

gentle reminder about 'not rocket science'.  The Challenger tragedy occurred 
because of a simple seal failure.

Leslie
retired from JPL/NASA
of course the scale of potential damage is not comparable.

On Wed, 2/4/15, Charles Nelson via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Navtec pump service
 To: "Tracy Hirsh" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Cc: "Robbie Epstein" 
 Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2015, 7:21 PM
 
 I may
 live so far out "...in the sticks..." in Eastern
 NC that "...we have to import the sticks 😄..."
 but we have many hydraulic shops, mostly because we have a
 lot of farm and logging equipment in use.
 I had my Navtec unit (after about 15
 yrs in use) seals replaced, cylinders smoothed/rebored?,
 etc. for about $300 at one of these a few years
 ago.
 Compared to the
 size and complexity of most equipment these shops deal with,
 my Navtec unit was a piece of cake, especially to the
 "...good old boys..." who are used to more
 complexity and quicker turn-arounds. (If you have contracted
 with an equipment lessor to get your crop planted,
 fertilized, harvested, etc. during a certain time interval,
 you or they cannot afford to wait for a 2-3 week repair
 time!)
 With
 appreciation to those "actual rocket scientists"
 on the list, this repair/rebuild does not even approach
 rocket science. It's a hydraulic cylinder for Heavens
 sake! The fact that it is used on a sailboat may inflate the
 repair cost (if it is repaired by a rigging shop) but at the
 end of the day it is a simple hydraulic
 cylinder.
 Charlie
 NelsonWater PhantomC&C 36
 XL/kcb
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 Sent from my
 iPad..
 On Feb 4, 2015, at 9:15
 PM, Tracy Hirsh via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 
 Thank you Robbie. 
 
 I got a suggestion from Francois Rivard to try Zern Rigging
 in Pensacola. I will let you know how it goes - Rick Zern
 will be closer for you as well!
 
 Tracy
 On Feb 4, 2015 7:47
 PM, "Robbie Epstein via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 I had my
 Navtec pump and back stay cylinder rebuilt at Florida
 Rigging in St Petersburg a couple of years ago.  I live in
 Fort Walton and couldn't find anyone close by to do
 it.  They were easy to work with, and did a great job.
 
 
 
 Robbie
 
 1980 C&C 40, Thorfinn
 
 Fort Walton Beach, FL
 
 
 
 Sent from my iPad
 
 
 
 > On Feb 4, 2015, at 2:28 PM, cnc-list-requ...@cnc-list.com
 wrote:
 
 >
 
 > Stus-List Navtec pump service on Upper Gulf Coast
 
 
 
 ___
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go to the bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 ___
 
 Email
 address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences,
 including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom of 
page at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

cnc-list@cnc-list.com

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

You can always use an extra line to narrow the sheeting angle (the name escapes 
me at the moment).

Leslie
was Navigo 2 (C&C25)


On Wed, 2/4/15, Ed Dooley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List C&C24
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2015, 1:44 PM
 
 Good
 point. I'm a cruiser, but when my friend pulls up next
 to me egging me on to race, it would be nice to
 haveone more edge in my
 favor.Ed
 From:  Gary Nylander 
 Date: 
 Wed, 4 Feb 2015 16:22:54 -0500
 To:  Ed Dooley ,
 
 Subject:
  Re: Stus-List C&C24
 
 The only suggestion I would have is to
 consider
 genoa tracks. The reason is our C&C's are rather
 'fat' boats and sheeting
 the genoa to the toe rail gives us a wider than optimum
 sheeting angle for the
 genoa. When I got my 30-1, I (had been to a couple of
 seminars and was loaded??
 with knowledge) I calculated the sheeting angle for the
 genoa was about
 12-13 degrees and my impressive knowledge suggested it
 should be around 10-11.
 Thus, tracks. This gives you the opportunity to unhook the
 genoa and run it back
 to the rail when you want the best angle for reaching, thus
 increasing the tasks
 you can get your faithful crew to do. If you are cruising and are not 
dedicated to
 the
 highest possible pointing angle, then disregard the above.
 If not, then drill a
 bunch of leaky holes in your deck and have the drips come
 down
 inside... Gary
   - Original Message -
 
   From:
   Ed Dooley
   via CnC-List 
   To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
   Sent: Wednesday,
 February 04, 2015 3:54
   PM
   Subject: Re:
 Stus-List C&C24
   
 
   My shins agree with the last comment. I have a
 C&C24, but don't know
   what might be different from the original.
   Halyards to winches on the cabin top at the cockpit,
 no genoa track (but
   simple to adjust for whatever foresail I choose with
 blocks clipped in to 2"
   or so increments in the aluminum toe-rail.
   One improvement (I don't think they were
 original, but who knows?) are
   the Barient self-tailing winches for the main sheets (nice
 improvement!).
   Teak grab rail on the cabin, split back stay with
 adjuster, home-made
   boom vang (not well thought out by previous owner). From
 the brochures
 on
   Stu's site http://www.cncphotoalbum.com/
 it looks
   like, as Chris said, the early models had halyards to mast
 base, not so on
   later models where they go to winches on the cabin top, at
 the cockpit.
   Ed
   
 
   From: Marek Dziedzic 
 Date:
 Wed, 4 Feb 2015 15:21:48 -0500
 To: "'Hoyt,
 Mike'" ,
 
 Subject:
 Re: Stus-List C&C24
 
   
 
   
_filtered
 #yiv4912952462 {
 font-family:Cambria Math;}
  _filtered #yiv4912952462 {
 font-family:Calibri;}
  _filtered #yiv4912952462 {
 font-family:Tahoma;}
  _filtered #yiv4912952462 {margin:72.0pt 72.0pt 72.0pt
 72.0pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 P.yiv4912952462MsoNormal {
 MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;FONT-SIZE:12pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 LI.yiv4912952462MsoNormal {
 MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;FONT-SIZE:12pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 DIV.yiv4912952462MsoNormal {
 MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;FONT-SIZE:12pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 A:link {
 COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}
 #yiv4912952462 SPAN.yiv4912952462MsoHyperlink {
 COLOR:blue;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}
 #yiv4912952462 A:visited {
 COLOR:purple;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}
 #yiv4912952462 SPAN.yiv4912952462MsoHyperlinkFollowed {
 COLOR:purple;TEXT-DECORATION:underline;}
 #yiv4912952462 P.yiv4912952462MsoAcetate {
 MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;FONT-SIZE:8pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 LI.yiv4912952462MsoAcetate {
 MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;FONT-SIZE:8pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 DIV.yiv4912952462MsoAcetate {
 MARGIN:0cm 0cm 0pt;FONT-SIZE:8pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 SPAN.yiv4912952462EmailStyle17 {
 COLOR:#1f497d;}
 #yiv4912952462 SPAN.yiv4912952462BalloonTextChar {
 }
 #yiv4912952462 SPAN.yiv4912952462EmailStyle20 {
 COLOR:#1f497d;}
 #yiv4912952462 .yiv4912952462MsoChpDefault {
 FONT-SIZE:10pt;}
 #yiv4912952462 DIV.yiv4912952462WordSection1 {
 }
 
   
   One
   of the big improvements was the change from the main
 sheeting to the cabin top
   (without the traveller) to a traveller in the cockpit.
 That change improved
   dramatically trimming of the main, even if some complained
 that the traveller
   was getting in the way of getting into the companion
 way. 

   There
   was a good picture on the boat for sail in BC (?) just a
 week or so
   ago. 

   Marek 
   (ex.
   C&C 24 Fennel) 

   
   
   From:
 CnC-List
   [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
   On Behalf Of Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
 Sent: February-04-15
   14:28
 To: chris hulett; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject:
   Re: Stus-List C&C24 

   Did
 you take pictures prior to stripping off the hardware? 
   Some of the added hardware may be a big improvement on the
 original as many of
   the older C&Cs came with hayards led to mast base, no
 boom vang, no
   backstay adjuster, no genoa tracks etc and many boats have
 been upgraded to
   run lines to cockpit and added very necessary s

Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Even he is not a rocket scientist; he just helped to communicate with 
spacecraft a few million miles away, at the edge of the solar system.

Leslie
(JPL, retired)

On Tue, 12/16/14, Frederick G Street via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?
 To: "Burt Stratton" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Tuesday, December 16, 2014, 10:33 AM
 
 Burt —
 unlike some on the list (Leslie…), I’m NOT a rocket
 scientist…   :^)
 
 
 Fred Street
 -- Minneapolis
 S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C
 Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield,
 WI   :^(
 
 
 On Dec 15, 2014, at 6:01 PM, Burt Stratton 
 wrote:
 Pardon
 me. Sometimes I forget the level of the people on this
 list.
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

2 Trojan 186 (?) in series.  The last set lasted well over 10 years.

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32

On Sun, 12/14/14, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Batteries -- Anyone use 6V's?
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Sunday, December 14, 2014, 12:18 PM
 
 Listers,
 
 I know the battery topic has been discharged (pun intended)
 quite a bit, but I've been hearing about people using
 chained 6V Golf Cart batteries as a preferred alternate to
 the Marine 12Vs for the house bank. 
 
 Has anyone tried this? If so, how many do you use? 4? 6? 8?
 Any problems? Happy with the results?
 
 4.5 months to the relaunch...
 
 All the best,
 
 Edd
 
 ---
 Edd M. Schillay
 Starship Enterprise
 C&C 37+ | NCC-1701-B
 City Island, NY
 www.StarshipSailing.com
 ---
 Sent from my iPad Air
 iPad. iTypos. iApologize
 
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Navigation

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

not quite any more, the SA has been turned off for many years.  It does not 
mean it can not be turned back on...

The average GPS receiver uses the C/A code only.  Better accuracy (10x) comes 
from the P code but it is encrypted  The military knows the W code,not the 
general public.  However, the P(Y) code can be tracked without knowing the W 
code.  (P code+ W code = P(Y) code)  ;-)

Little known fact that in large parts of the country (US) there are stations 
broadcasting corrective (error) information that can be used to correct the GPS 
solution, to better than 30 cm accuracy.  NDGPS is available, run by the Coast 
Guard; lately the Dept of Transportation too.

In addition the new (BlockIII) satellites transmit civilian codes (CS, CL) on 
L2 that improves the ground solutions.

Leslie.


On Sat, 12/6/14, Joel Aronson via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation
 To: "Rick Brass" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Saturday, December 6, 2014, 7:18 PM
 
 Civilian GPS equipment is
 intentionally less accurate than military equipment.  Your
 government doesn't want you to know exactly where you
 are!
 Joel
 
 On Saturday, December 6, 2014,
 Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Hope you are having a great, and
 warm, weekend, Dennis. It is rainy, gray, and the high was
 about 60 in NC today. Not a nice day for
 boating. We have all experienced the sort
 of GPS errors you mentioned at one time or another. And
 because we all know that our GPS receiver can calculate out
 position to an accuracy of 30 feet or so, we tend to think
 that the charts are wrong. But that might not be the whole
 truth. I’d bet NOAA had pretty good GPS
 location numbers on the buoys you “hit”, and is not far
 off on the position of the seawall. The 10 to 30 foot
 accuracy our GPS reports is based on things like the number
 and position of the satellites from which it is getting
 signals, allowing for things like the accuracy of its
 internal clock, inaccuracy in the chart datum, and the radio
 waves that carry the time signals from the satellites
 getting “bent” by the Earth’s magnetic field. But
 there is another variable that  the GPS can’t allow
 for. I remember reading, a few years
 ago, about the GPS system in one of the science magazines
 aimed at geeks like me (Probably Scientific American or Air
 and Space, but I can’t recall for sure). Seems the GPS
 system is a good example of Einstein’s Theory of
 Relativity. Part of the theory says that when you go faster,
 time slows down relative to time measured in a location that
 is moving more slowly. The GPS satellites are traveling
 at something like 18000MPH faster than we are on the
 Earth’s surface. So the atomic clocks on the satellites
 “tick” just a wee bit more slowly than the clock on
 earth. There is a government facility outside of Omaha where
 military personnel are tasked with adjusting the clocks on
 the satellites, by a few microseconds or nanoseconds,
 several times per day to maintain the accuracy of the time
 signals relative to the earthbound time. As I recall, if the
 clocks were not adjusted for 24 hours, the calculated
 position of a spot on Earth would be off by something like 5
 miles. That’s probably more than you
 wanted to know. But you can probably chalk up all those
 buoys the chartplotter boat ran into to
 Albert. Oh, and another bit of Einstein
 trivia: He issued the original patents for the recipe for
 Tolberone Chocolate, and the shape of the candy. Which is
 not boating related, unless your Admiral likes really good
 chocolate. Rick
 BrassWashington,
 NC   From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
 Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
 Sent:
 Monday, December 01, 2014 8:48 AM
 To:
 Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List
 Navigation I was motoring up a harbor
 looking at a  nice Raymarine system showing the boat going
 through a sea wall 200 feet west of our actual
 position.  Yesterday while motoring in
 the ICW channel in Santa Rosa Sound near Navarre, FL, the
 chartplotter boat took out several of the buoys on the right
 side of the channel.  Dennis
 C.Touché 35-1
 #83Mandeville,
 LA Currently on the hook
 at30 23.054N 86 51.884W
 
 Sent from my
 iPhone
 
  
 
 -- 
 Joel 
 301 541 8551
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo
 Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Navigation

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

for those who really want to know, look at: 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Error_analysis_for_the_Global_Positioning_System

There are a lot of 'urban myths' around the GPS, make sure your information is 
verified.

Leslie.
I did not study it, but have friends who use GPS to sub-centimeter accuracy...


On Sat, 12/6/14, Rick Brass via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation
 To: "'Dennis C.'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Saturday, December 6, 2014, 6:58 PM
 
 Hope you are having a great, and
 warm, weekend, Dennis. It is rainy, gray, and the high was
 about 60 in NC today. Not a nice day for
 boating.  We have all experienced the sort
 of GPS errors you mentioned at one time or another. And
 because we all know that our GPS receiver can calculate out
 position to an accuracy of 30 feet or so, we tend to think
 that the charts are wrong. But that might not be the whole
 truth.  I’d bet NOAA had pretty good
 GPS location numbers on the buoys you “hit”, and is not
 far off on the position of the seawall. The 10 to 30 foot
 accuracy our GPS reports is based on things like the number
 and position of the satellites from which it is getting
 signals, allowing for things like the accuracy of its
 internal clock, inaccuracy in the chart datum, and the radio
 waves that carry the time signals from the satellites
 getting “bent” by the Earth’s magnetic field. But
 there is another variable that  the GPS can’t allow
 for.  I remember reading, a few years
 ago, about the GPS system in one of the science magazines
 aimed at geeks like me (Probably Scientific American or Air
 and Space, but I can’t recall for sure). Seems the GPS
 system is a good example of Einstein’s Theory of
 Relativity. Part of the theory says that when you go faster,
 time slows down relative to time measured in a location that
 is moving more slowly.  The GPS satellites are traveling
 at something like 18000MPH faster than we are on the
 Earth’s surface. So the atomic clocks on the satellites
 “tick” just a wee bit more slowly than the clock on
 earth. There is a government facility outside of Omaha where
 military personnel are tasked with adjusting the clocks on
 the satellites, by a few microseconds or nanoseconds,
 several times per day to maintain the accuracy of the time
 signals relative to the earthbound time. As I recall, if the
 clocks were not adjusted for 24 hours, the calculated
 position of a spot on Earth would be off by something like 5
 miles.  That’s probably more than you
 wanted to know. But you can probably chalk up all those
 buoys the chartplotter boat ran into to Albert.  Oh, and another bit of 
Einstein
 trivia: He issued the original patents for the recipe for
 Tolberone Chocolate, and the shape of the candy. Which is
 not boating related, unless your Admiral likes really good
 chocolate. Rick BrassWashington, NC      From:
 CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf
 Of Dennis C. via CnC-List
 Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 8:48 AM
 To: Della Barba, Joe; cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List
 Navigation  I was motoring up a harbor
 looking at a  nice Raymarine system showing the boat
 going through a sea wall 200 feet west of our actual
 position.   Yesterday while motoring in
 the ICW channel in Santa Rosa Sound near Navarre, FL, the
 chartplotter boat took out several of the buoys on the right
 side of the channel.   Dennis C.Touché 35-1
 #83Mandeville,
 LA
  Currently on the hook
 at30
 23.054N 86 51.884W
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 
  
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List boat heating - was LF38 engine access - how bad is it really?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

the raw water cooled engine can be modified to use coolant in the engine and an 
external exchanger.  Mine is setup that way from the factory (at least looks 
that way).

Leslie.
Phoenix C&C32


On Wed, 12/3/14, Graham Collins via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List boat heating - was LF38 engine access - how bad is it   
really?
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com, "Hoyt, Mike" 
 Date: Wednesday, December 3, 2014, 3:13 PM
 
 
 Hi Mike
 
   It is very do-able.  Do you have the engine heating a
 hot water
   tank?  Same process essentially.  Hot water/glycol
 comes out of
   the engine, run it thru a Y valve.  If set one way
 the flow is
   through the heat exchanger as usual, but if set the
 other way the
   hot stuff goes to a heater in the cabin and then into
 the heat
   exchanger on the engine.  You would need:
 
   1) radiator, such
 as this one
 
   2) enough hose to connect it all up.
 
   3) a Y valve to select cabin heat or no cabin heat.
 
   4) a T (for the return)
 
   
 
   I've got a hydronic heating system on my boat with
 two radiators,
   my espar heats these and the water tank - but the idea
 is the
   same.  I couldn't go the engine heated route
 because mine is a 3GM
   = raw water cooled.
 
   
 
   If you would like to have a look at my setup we can
 arrange it.
 
   
 
   Graham Collins
 Secret Plans
 C&C 35-III #11
   On 2014-12-03 11:12 AM, Rick Brass via CnC-List
 wrote:
 
 
 
   #yiv1582812466
 #yiv1582812466 --
  
  _filtered #yiv1582812466 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv1582812466 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv1582812466 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11
 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv1582812466 {font-family:Papyrus;panose-1:3 7
 5 2 6 5 2 3 2 5;}
  _filtered #yiv1582812466 {panose-1:3 2 4 2 4 6 7 4 6 5;}
 #yiv1582812466  
 #yiv1582812466 p.yiv1582812466MsoNormal, #yiv1582812466
 li.yiv1582812466MsoNormal, #yiv1582812466
 div.yiv1582812466MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv1582812466 a:link, #yiv1582812466
 span.yiv1582812466MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv1582812466 a:visited, #yiv1582812466
 span.yiv1582812466MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv1582812466 p
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv1582812466 span.yiv1582812466EmailStyle18
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv1582812466 span.yiv1582812466EmailStyle19
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv1582812466 .yiv1582812466MsoChpDefault
{font-size:10.0pt;}
  _filtered #yiv1582812466 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv1582812466 div.yiv1582812466WordSection1
{}
 #yiv1582812466 
 Mike; 
    
 Josh
 is correct in saying the “F” in the model
 number of older
 Yanmar engines designated freshwater cooled, and
 the use of
 a heat exchanger on the engine. On a freshwater
 cooled
 engine the water/glycol coolant mix in the block
 is
 circulated through a heat exchanger – which is
 analogous to
 the radiator in your car. Raw water, drawn from
 outside of
 the boat, is circulated through the heat
 exchanger and
 removes the heat from the water/glycol coolant
 before being
 used to cool the exhaust gasses and being
 discharged
 overboard. In your car, the relatively cold air
 passing
 through the radiator takes the heat away from
 the
 water/glycol coolant in the engine. 
    
 If
 there is no “F” in the model number of an
 older Yanmar, it
 is a raw water cooled engine. Seawater is drawn
 from
 outside, pumped through the engine to cool it,
 then mixed
 with the exhaust to cool that, and then
 discharged
 overboard. 
    
 Now
 I said “older” Yanmar engines because every
 model in their
 current product line seems to come with a heat
 exchanger and
 fresh water cooling. 
    
 In
 response to another comment made about the
 “GM”, “HM”, “QM”
 model designation (the current engines are
 “YM”) that is a
 model series designation. It almost looks like
 it relates to
 the generation of emission controls present on
 the engine. I
 notice that the YM series is designed to meet
 the diesel
 emission standards that started to become
 effective in 2011
 in the US. 
    
 So
 “2” or “3” is the number of cylinders.
 “GM” etc. is the
 engine series. “30” is the nominal
 horsepower. And “F” is
 freshwater cooled. (On the 4 cylinder engines
 “TE” is
 

Re: Stus-List Navigation

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

and sometimes there are plain errors.  For example the local Long Beach (CA) 
chart's insert for the downtown marina had the wrong longitude number inserted 
at one point.  Off by 0.1 degree, quite a distance.  I reported it some years 
ago, so probably fixed by now.

Leslie

On Mon, 12/1/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation
 To: "Della Barba, Joe" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Monday, December 1, 2014, 5:47 AM
 
 I was
 motoring up a harbor looking at a  nice Raymarine system
 showing the boat going through a sea wall 200 feet west of
 our actual position. 
 Yesterday while motoring in the ICW
 channel in Santa Rosa Sound near Navarre, FL, the
 chartplotter boat took out several of the buoys on the right
 side of the channel. 
 Dennis C.Touché 35-1
 #83Mandeville, LA
 Currently on the hook
 at30 23.054N 86 51.884W
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 On Dec 1,
 2014, at 7:35 AM, "Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List"
 
 wrote:
 
 
 
 #yiv5655659185
 #yiv5655659185 --
  
  _filtered #yiv5655659185 {panose-1:2 4 5 3 5 4 6 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv5655659185 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
 #yiv5655659185  
 #yiv5655659185 p.yiv5655659185MsoNormal, #yiv5655659185
 li.yiv5655659185MsoNormal, #yiv5655659185
 div.yiv5655659185MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv5655659185 a:link, #yiv5655659185
 span.yiv5655659185MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv5655659185 a:visited, #yiv5655659185
 span.yiv5655659185MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv5655659185 p
{margin-right:0in;margin-left:0in;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv5655659185 span.yiv5655659185EmailStyle18
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv5655659185 span.yiv5655659185EmailStyle19
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv5655659185 .yiv5655659185MsoChpDefault
{font-size:10.0pt;}
  _filtered #yiv5655659185 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv5655659185 div.yiv5655659185WordSection1
{}
 #yiv5655659185 
 I am not sure where “where
 ever” is, but some areas out of the 1st world
 are using surveys from 100-200 years ago to make those
 electronic charts.
  Recently the US Navy drove a minesweeper onto a reef for
 just this reason. Also note the vector chart plotters will
 lose major details when zoomed out, including entire
 islands. This resulted in a multiple fatality in California
 recently. 
    
    
 
 Joe Della Barba
 
 
 Coquina 
 C&C 35 MK I 
 
 
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Letsgo Sailing via CnC-List
 
 Sent: Monday, December 01, 2014 6:59 AM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation 
 
 
    
 I used C-Map on Standard Horizon
 chartplotter and where ever I have sailed they where
 accurate to the foot.
  
    
 Yanni Boatless in
 Ontario 
 Not for long… 
    
 92 Lebaron 3.0
 convertible 
 95 LeBaron 3.0 turbo
 convertible 
 07 Yamaha Straotoliner
 S 
 SCRC 011059 
 SRO 26-6483 
    
 TURBO!cause bottles are for
 babies and superchargers blow!!! 
 Which would you rather have, go
 fast goodies or shiny shoes? 
 Your feet may look good but if
 your engine blows you ain't going nowhere 
    
    
 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
 On Behalf Of Colin Kilgour via CnC-List
 
 Sent: November 30, 2014 10:52 AM
 
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com;
 Kevin Driscoll
 
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Navigation 
 
   
 Just because charts are digital
 doesn't mean they are accurate.
  
 Many digital charts are based on
 soundings that may literally be hundreds of years old and
 would certainly predate GPS.
  
 I was in Panama this summer and my
 Navionics gold charts would have had me drive over a bunch
 of reefs if I had let them.   (I used paper charts from
 the cruising guide which were spot on)
  
 I'm not sure what the chart
 accuracy is in that part of the world,  but if there was
 any question of dodgy charts,  the race committee ought to
 have given that area a wide berth.   It would have been
 simple to set up a waypoint well offshore
  in deep water.   Putting people at risk that way is
 irresponsible,  imo.  
 Cheers 
 
 Colin  
 
 On Nov
 29, 2014 10:57 PM, "Kevin Driscoll via CnC-List"
 
 wrote: 
 
 I heard it
 was a classic case of being too far zoomed out on the chart
 plotter. At least that's what the Volvo website alluded
 to.
  
 
 On Sat,
 Nov 29, 2014, 12:03 PM Don Newman via CnC-List 
 wrote: 
 
 They were
 hit by Cyclone Suzie.
 
 Reported grounded Cargo Carajos Shoals, Mauritius 12 hours
 later.
 
 
 
 
 
 Don Newman
 
 905 547 1750
 
 
 
 > On Nov 29, 2014, at 13:58, Brent Driedger via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
 >
 
 > Sorry, this isn't C&C specific but important to
 our sport. Currently Team Vestas Wind is aground and
 planning to abandon ship. Is there any reason why a
 professionally crewed yacht with the latest and greatest nav
 equipment and shore assistance would come
  to thi

Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

would you rather spend them in an office?

Leslie.   ;-)


On Tue, 11/18/14, Chuck S via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing Checklist
 To: "Edd Schillay" 
 Cc: "CNC boat owners, cnc-list" , "cnc-list-bounces 
cnc-list" 
 Date: Tuesday, November 18, 2014, 2:37 PM
 
 Thanks
 everyone.  We're OK.  I winterized all the water
 systems yesterday ahead of this cold spell.  Pulled my
 sails off Sunday and brought home a van load of gear. 
 
 Just read through a
 few winterizing checklists and I'm about 90% done. 
 Need to remove the last bit of gear like the wheel and spin
 pole and electronics and setup the cabin cushions and rig my
 small tarp to cover the cabintop.  I may also wipe down the
 interior teak w Pinesol to prevent mold and mildew over the
 winter, and lube or polish a few things to get ahead of
 spring commissioning?  Sad days.  
 
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 C&C 34R
 Broad Creek,
 Magothy River, Md
 
 From: "Edd
 Schillay" 
 To: "cscheaffer"
 , "CNC boat owners,
 cnc-list" 
 Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2014 4:51:27
 PM
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing
 Checklist
 
 Chuck,
I’ve always found this
 list on WestMarine.com to be very
 good: http://www.westmarine.com/WestAdvisor/Winterizing 
Dropped into the 20’s
 here last night. You may be too late :-)
 
 
 
All the best,
Edd
 
Edd M. Schillay Starship
 Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-B City Island,
 NY Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 On Nov 18, 2014, at 4:41 PM, Chuck S
 via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 Anybody ever create a checklist for
 winterizing?  Can you share?
 
 Chuck
 Resolute
 1990 C&C 34R
 Broad Creek, Magothy
 River, Md
 ___
 This List is provided by
 the C&C Photo Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list
 preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page
 at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo
 Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Winterizing my boat and Sea cocks

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

don't forget your water tank and hot water heater.  I'm sure the list can help, 
I do not know about those as we keep the boat in the water all year.

Leslie
Phoenix C&C32


On Tue, 11/4/14, Burt Stratton via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Winterizing my boat and Sea cocks
 To: "'Bernard Toews'" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Tuesday, November 4, 2014, 7:00 AM
 
 #yiv2443125185
 #yiv2443125185 --
  
  _filtered #yiv2443125185 {font-family:Calibri;panose-1:2 15
 5 2 2 2 4 3 2 4;}
  _filtered #yiv2443125185 {font-family:Tahoma;panose-1:2 11
 6 4 3 5 4 4 2 4;}
 #yiv2443125185  
 #yiv2443125185 p.yiv2443125185MsoNormal, #yiv2443125185
 li.yiv2443125185MsoNormal, #yiv2443125185
 div.yiv2443125185MsoNormal
{margin:0in;margin-bottom:.0001pt;font-size:12.0pt;}
 #yiv2443125185 a:link, #yiv2443125185
 span.yiv2443125185MsoHyperlink
{color:blue;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv2443125185 a:visited, #yiv2443125185
 span.yiv2443125185MsoHyperlinkFollowed
{color:purple;text-decoration:underline;}
 #yiv2443125185 span.yiv2443125185EmailStyle17
{color:#1F497D;}
 #yiv2443125185 .yiv2443125185MsoChpDefault
{}
  _filtered #yiv2443125185 {margin:1.0in 1.0in 1.0in 1.0in;}
 #yiv2443125185 div.yiv2443125185WordSection1
{}
 #yiv2443125185 Beyent,  Congratulations on your purchase!
 I am in a similar position although I have relatively
 extensive power boat ownership experience. When it comes to
 winterizing they are very similar. The standing rigging
 being the major difference. I see many owners here keep
 their rigs up over the winter. Up there, I might talk to
 some local folks about that. I don’t know what those kinds
 of temperatures would do to your rig. I am taking mine down
 this year because I am having the boat transported to my
 home but it stayed up last year.  I would welcome other opinions but
 IMHO I would not bother draining anything engine related as
 long as you run the correct anti-freeze through the cooling
 system as you described. I will admit that we don’t have
 experience with that kind of cold down here in Massachusetts
 but we will see below zero Fahrenheit. If you get the
 anti-freeze distributed through your systems it should
 protect all of it including the silencer. All the draining
 and disassembly sounds redundant. You of course need to add
 the correct type and concentration of anti-freeze to any
 system that has water in it. (head, fresh water, heat pump,
 etc.) Also, the sea strainer on the intake of your raw water
 cooling system may need to be drained or I just pour
 anti-freeze into it if there is any standing water left in
 there. Mine empties out pretty well when on the hard with
 the seacock open. Also, if you don’t have a garboard drain
 in the hull you may want to put some anti-freeze in the
 bilge to account for any standing water there. Make sure you
 treat your gas. I like to make sure my tank is full in order
 to minimize condensation but there are others who like to
 keep the tank as empty as they can to avoid having all that
 fuel age over the winter. I use Startron and have never had
 a problem even with gas that has sat for a couple years. I
 use a higher concentration than suggested on the
 container.  Burt  From: CnC-List
 [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
 Bernard Toews via CnC-List
 Sent:
 Tuesday, November 04, 2014 9:30 AM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Stus-List Winterizing my boat
 and Sea cocks
    I'm new to cnc.
 I should mention that I have never owned anything bigger
 than a two man dinghy until I bought  a 1979 34 C&C (
 Hull No. 175) so I'm in the unfortunate position of
 knowing very little about my boat and so I have lots of
 questions and only a few answers. Websites, books and forums
 are very important to me. I would classify myself as an
 inexperienced boat owner although I am some experience
 sailing a keel boat.
 
 I am
 trying to learn to maintain the boat myself and I'm
 finding that the learning curve is very steep. I am trying
 to get to know my boat and make sure I do things right.
   I am winterizing the
 boat myself for the first time. I live in an area with a
 harsh winter climate (Winnipeg, Manitoba) where the
 temperature can drop to 40 below Celcius in the winter (not
 counting wind chill factors). The boat has a raw water
 cooled 30 hp Atomic 4 engine. I want to make sure that I am
 doing everything correctly when winterizing my boat. I have
 pumped RV 50 below anti-freeze into the engine until the
 anti-freeze ran out of the exhaust. I didn’t warm up the
 engine at the time since the boat was on the hard and I had
 no water source. So, in order to be safe, I will be taking
 out the thermostat and running anti-freeze through the
 engine again. I will then open and leave open the three
 drain plugs or cocks ( cylinder block drain cock located on
 the port side, drain plug located on the port side near the
 water pump, and 

Re: Stus-List Running Lights

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

In addition, the white light gets filtered by the red or green lens, cutting 
out other frequencies (colors).  The power that went into generating the 
unwanted colors is lost.  (Not fully applicable to single 'bulb' tri-color 
lights, there you have to live with the losses)

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/30/14, Leslie Paal via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Running Lights
 To: "Bill Coleman" , cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Date: Thursday, October 30, 2014, 12:45 PM
 
 Bill,
 
 LEDs generate light at a given frequency
 (color) based on the "impurities" on the chip. 
 Those are carefully controlled impurities; but can not be
 mixed for wide color spectrum.  So a red or green led will
 be tuned for that color and all the power goes into that
 color. Most likely their bulb is clear to get the best
 efficiency. 
 
 "White" LEDs work differently.  They
 have a blue/UV LED with yellow phosphor coating to make what
 looks to our eyes as white.  But it does not have as much
 power at red or green as a pure red/green LED for the same
 input power.
 
 I hope this
 helps.
 
 Leslie.
 
 
 On Thu, 10/30/14, Bill Coleman via CnC-List
 
 wrote:
 
  Subject: Stus-List
 Running Lights
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo
 Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Running Lights

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Bill,

LEDs generate light at a given frequency (color) based on the "impurities" on 
the chip.  Those are carefully controlled impurities; but can not be mixed for 
wide color spectrum.  So a red or green led will be tuned for that color and 
all the power goes into that color. Most likely their bulb is clear to get the 
best efficiency. 

"White" LEDs work differently.  They have a blue/UV LED with yellow phosphor 
coating to make what looks to our eyes as white.  But it does not have as much 
power at red or green as a pure red/green LED for the same input power.

I hope this helps.

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/30/14, Bill Coleman via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Stus-List Running Lights
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com


___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

look out for ascenders with 'teeth'; they can shred the rope on a fall, and 
break the rope (if it is bad enough, but will ruin the rope anyhow).  Gibb 
ascenders a lot better (more like a line clutch), we only used Gibbs in USART.

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/16/14, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Mast Self-Climbers?
 To: "C&C List" , "Edd Schillay" 
 Date: Thursday, October 16, 2014, 5:39 PM
 
 Here's a
 couple of links to spring off of for ascender climbing. 
 The foot ascenders look promissing.
 A waste strap/line can also be passed around
 the mast and both ends attached to the harness (one end on a
 carabiner for fast passing of obstructions).  This is added
 safety to prevent accidentally twisting upside down and you
 slipping out of the harness or chair.  This is one reason I
 prefer a harness.
 https://www.google.com/search?q=ascender+climbing&oq=ascender
 http://www.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ascender_(climbing)
 http://youtube.com/watch?v=2LK20hvHQyA
 http://www.rockandice.com/lates-news/ascender-safety-101
 
 Josh
 
 
 On Oct 16, 2014 7:58
 PM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
 wrote:
 Listers,
Now that the
 Enterprise is up for the winter, I’m starting my list of
 projects -- One of which is some mast work. 
Has anyone on the list
 ever rigged their own mast self-climber, and, if so, what
 did you use. 
There’s an article
 about it in the latest issue of Practical Sailor, so it’s
 on my mind.
And no, the
 transporter can’t materialize me at the top of the
 mast. 
 
 
 
All the
 best,
Edd
 
Edd M.
 Schillay   Starship
 Enterprise C&C 37+ | Sail No:
 NCC-1701-B City Island,
 NY Starship
 Enterprise's Captain's Log
 
 
 
 ___
 
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 
 
 
 Email address:
 
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 
 To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing --
 go bottom of page at:
 
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 
 
 
 
 -Inline Attachment Follows-
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo
 Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Ebola?

[Leslie Paal via CnC-List]

Slight correction; the politicians are getting involved..

Leslie.


On Thu, 10/16/14, Dennis C. via CnC-List  wrote:

 Subject: Re: Stus-List Ebola?
 To: "Wally Bryant" , "cnc-list@cnc-list.com" 

 Date: Thursday, October 16, 2014, 5:33 PM
 
 Things are NOT OK.  The
 government is getting involved. 
 
 Dennis C.
 
 Sent
 from my iPhone
 
 > On Oct
 16, 2014, at 6:35 PM, Wally Bryant via CnC-List 
 wrote:
 > 
 > Is
 everybody up there okay?  I hear there's a
 pandemicoutbreak of Ebola in the US and Canada.
 > 
 > Wal
 > 
 > -- 
 > s/v Stella Blue
 >
 www.wbryant.com
 > 
 >
 
 >
 ___
 > This List is provided by the C&C Photo
 Album
 > 
 > Email
 address:
 > CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 > To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
 >
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 >
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo
 Album
 
 Email address:
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
 To change your list preferences, including
 unsubscribing -- go bottom of page at:
 http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
 
 

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album

Email address:
CnC-List@cnc-list.com
To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go bottom of page 
at:
http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com