Stus-List Re: Perkins Perama M30 Diesel Engine

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tom,

If the engine was running and you stopped it, it's unlikely that it 
threw a rod, that would almost certainly stop it instantly and 
destructively.  The white smoke could indicate a blown head gasket 
allowing coolant to enter the cylinders or some issue with the valves.


Does it still turn over with a hand crank or the starter?  One of the 
best diagnostics is a compression test on each cylinder (is it a single 
cylinder?).  If there are no marine mechanics around, most likely a 
truck mechanic could assist if you can find one willing. You do not have 
to pull the engine, assuming you can get at the top of the cylinders to 
remove the injectors.  However any significant repairs is most likely 
going to require pulling the engine.  (I pulled my Atomic 4 out by using 
the main halyard and the boom, not that hard to do.)


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 7/19/2024 7:23 AM, T Smyth via CnC-List wrote:


A few weeks ago I was returning to the dock and my Perkins diesel 
began knocking quite a bit. I slowed it down and the knowing subsided 
but then became louder with an excessive amount of white smoke 
emerging from the exhaust. I stopped the engine with just enough 
thrust to navigate to my slip.


I am not a diesel mechanic but it could be a thrown rod. The engine 
has less than 100 hours on it but it perhaps around 10-15 years old. 
As with most auxiliary power, it doesn’t get used much in my lake setting.


Question: 1. What might the problem be?

Where does one find a diesel mechanic who can work on a small boat engine?

Must the engine be pulled to make such repairs?

1974 C 30 MK1

Thanks for any ideas.

Tom

Augusta Georgia USA


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Stus-List Re: Transmission

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dave,

First thoughts are that it's an in-water repair. Removing a transmission 
usually means pulling it aft a few inches to clear the connection 
between the engine and transmission, so you should be able to do this by 
sliding the prop shaft back just a few inches. It does depend on the 
clearance between the prop and the rudder, but most boats have enough 
room to make this work.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 6/9/2024 8:37 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:

I am motoring from block island to home and just had the motor stop powering 
the boat. Sailing now with motor off and shaft is turning whether in forward or 
reverse.  Moving shift lever at transmission has no effect.  Sounds like my 
transmission just crapped out. Can sail back but is this an in water repair or 
haul?  Dave
Sent from my iPhone
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Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I interior

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

My boat has the same cabin sole, otherwise no where as much as all that 
on the topsides.  I certainly don't have teak and holly in the head!


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 5/20/2024 12:12 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


Was this stock? I cannot recall seeing any other 35 with this much teak:

https://www.yachtworld.com/yacht/1970-c$c-35-mk-i-9350708/

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA


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Stus-List Re: raw water filter set up for C 35 MkI

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Glen,

I installed a Groco strainer, mounted it low on the forward bulkhead in 
the Lazarette under the starboard seat. Just screwed the mounting 
fixture to the bulkhead and ran hoses from the thru hull to the strainer 
and from the strainer to the raw water pump. //I used two 90-deg bronze 
elbows on the outlet as it was facing outboard to avoid a loop in the 
hose.  It was tight but it works.  I've put in a freshwater heat 
exchanger so my raw water pump is on the forward end of the engine, but 
with the original raw water pump the hoses should flex enough to reach 
the pump.  Let me know offline if you want pictures.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NYPlease show your appreciation for this list and the Photo Album site and help 
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Stus-List Re: Hints on swapping winches?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dean,

I switched from the original Barient to Lewmar ST winches, the 35-1 has 
them mounted on the raised cockpit coaming top where access is pretty 
good underneath, no liner, plus the coaming top has wood sandwiched in 
it, maybe 3/4" thick or so.  It just happened that the old and new holes 
were quite close together, so I made backing plates from fiberglass 
board, 1/2" thick, bigger in diameter than the winch base, which I 
epoxied under the coaming top.  Once that was in I just filled the old 
holes with epoxy and drilled through for the new winch.  Pretty sure 
they're not going anywhere.


The board came from McMaster Carr, not really cheap but makes nice 
backing plates.

https://www.mcmaster.com/products/fiberglass-boards/structural-frp-fiberglass-sheets-bars-and-strips/

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY





From: Dean McNeill via CnC-List  
Sent: Friday, March 22, 2024 8:24 PM

To: Stus-List
Cc: Dean McNeill
Subject: Stus-List Hints on swapping winches?

I'm about to finally replace my old 2 speed Barient 25 primary winches on my 
C 34, with Harken 46 Self tailing winches.
Anyone have experience doing a similar swap? I fully expect I’ll need to fill 
old holes and drill new ones. And probably glass in aluminum or plywood backing 
plates.

Any other hints and tips?

Thanks, Dean
BarraWind
1980 C 34
Halifax, NS

  
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Stus-List Re: Galley sink drain C 30 Mk1

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

My 35-1, probably the same time frame, has that same arrangement, galley 
sink drains to the starboard cockpit drain.  I have replaced the hoses 
and thru hull fittings but used the same arrangement 10 years ago, so 
far so good.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 2/8/2024 5:38 PM, Alexander Netherton via CnC-List wrote:

Hello All

I have a C 30 Mk 1, a fine old boat that has a history of different 
owners.  Recently, we had a very cold snap with temperatures hitting 
the – 12to – 16 range. A good stress test for the boat’s plumbing for 
sure.  To make a long story short, I need to know how the galley sink 
drainage ought to be configured on this boat.  You can read more for 
detail, or simply respond.  All information will be appreciated.


….  In the aftermath of the cold snap, I found that there was some 
seepage from the galley sink.  And there I found an odd configuration. 
The 1.5-inch drain was stepped down to a 1-inch diameter hose that ran 
into the drainage for the cockpit. There a Y fitting was screwed into 
the seacock (a 1.5-inch diameter) that allowed the 1-inch drainage 
from the sink to drain into that seacock.  The lip onto which the 
1-inch sink drain line attached itself was pitifully short—about 1 
inch, and below the water line. Not very safe and a configuration that 
can not fully drain the sink.



The upshot is that I have to change the galley sink drainage system. 
The C 30 Mk 1 owners manual gives no details on this—but it does 
show that the cockpit and galley sink drainage are separate systems.  
The local chandlery folk advise me to install a new  drainage 
thru-hull (with a gate valve) between the bottom of the sink and the 
waterline, to ensure that it drains properly. But this is a wide 
margin leaving me without a precise idea of where to put the 
thru-hull. And I am not sure whether I need an elbow under the 
sink--or how that ought to be configured.



Can anyone tell me how the gally sink drainage was handled by C at 
the outset. Are there any specs or design principles that I could use 
to help me pinpoint these positions or design the new system?


Your help will be appreciated.


Best,  Alex Netherton

Dulcibella, Nanaimo BC


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Stus-List Re: Fundraising time

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Stu,

Our deepest sympathies for your loss.  You've been such a help to so 
many C owners over the years, and we are deeply indebted to you and 
Gladys for all you've done both for the List and in attending the many 
rendezvous.  Be assured of our support in such a difficult time.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




On 10/26/2023 3:20 PM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
As it has happened in the past, I asked our many subscribers to help a 
little bit paying the bills.  The bills keep coming but I don’t get 
much assistance from the Government.
This year is really going to be hard on me – Gladys, my long time 
partner of 28 years, passed away on Monday, October 23.  Unfortunately 
some of the medical and funeral expenses will not be covered.  I am 
not looking for handouts but just a little bit of assistance.
Gladys will always be remembered for providing several hundred C 
Owners with custom made burgees.  May she rest in peace.

Stu
Gladys-2

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Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: C 35 MK 1 bow water tank

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I put a Plastimo 26 gal tank in place of the original fiberglass tank 
under the port settee just this summer, so can't say how it will be 
long-term but am very happy with it so far.  Before installing I ground 
down the various rough edges in the space and put a plywood platform 
under the inboard part of it.  The tank has loops on the corners which I 
secured, and the tank has a bottom outlet which is also why I put it on 
a raised platform.  I suppose a bow tank would be similar.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/20/2023 6:55 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


I am thinking about a bladder. The tank is enough of a mess that I am 
not sure I want to deal with it.


Has anyone had good luck with the Plastimo tanks?

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA


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Stus-List Re: need age-reversing machine ASAP! Or a boat expander!

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Funny you should bring that up, as I've just made several trips back to 
the transom down the port side to replace the exhaust hose.  I must say 
it took me a bit of doing, had to remove the fuel fill and blower hoses, 
just barely fit through the opening, but with strategic twists and turns 
I made it.  i share your sense of "shrinking", I could have done that 
easy a while back.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 7/23/2023 12:11 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


I am running the propane hose for my new stove down the starboard side 
of the boat, which is requiring me to crawl back to the stern 
under/beside the aft cockpit. My memory of working back there was I 
just crawled in and back out. Turns out to not be that easy, I had to 
take the engine control cables and bilge pump hoses off their fittings 
and I still can just barely sort of do it. When I was a teenager I fit 
just fine. Did the boat shrink? Can I expand it? Did I “opposite of 
shrink”?


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA


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Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

David,

This may be a long shot, but on a Universal M3-20B that I installed on a 
club launch, and I think all Universals, the fuel pump gets its power 
under normal running conditions via an oil pressure switch. When 
starting the engine, the glow plug switch energizes the electric fuel 
pump in addition to the glow plugs (you can hear it clicking when you 
press the glow plug switch), but once the oil pressure rises it closes 
the oil pressure switch and keeps the fuel pump running when you let up 
on the glow plug switch.  Incidentally the reason you hear the pump 
running after you shut the engine off is that it takes a few seconds for 
the oil pressure to drop to the point where the switch opens.


I ran in to a problem with that engine when sludge got in to the 
connection to the oil pressure switch and kept it from closing properly, 
and thus the fuel pump intermittently stopped running and stalled the 
engine. Until I found the real problem I put a relay powered by the 
engine on/off key switch that powered the fuel pump directly, but when I 
flushed the oil switch a few times it cured the problem.


Not sure how relevant this may be to your issues, but may be of interest.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 6/27/2023 12:45 PM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
So I am back to my engine problem hoping someone can help clarify 
things.  I have had the engine quit several more times, but with no 
consistency as to when or why it happens. We were on a cruise recently 
and used it often and for long periods going in and out of harbors. 
 Mostly it worked fine but had it stall several times: start and run 
for a few minutes, then stall, restart then stall, restart then stall, 
then run fine for 20 min or more.  This happened in two separate 
situations a few days apart but no stall several other times.  In all 
cases, it has eventually restarted and ran for extended periods. 
 These intermittent problems are the hardest to diagnose in my 
experience.  This seems most likely to be a fuel related issue so now 
I am trying to fully understand the fuel system.


I installed a Racor 500 unit last summer with a T-handle vacuum gauge 
on top.  Fuel goes from the tank, through the shutoff lever to the 
Racor, then to the fuel pump, then to the secondary and on to the 
engine.  If I understand this correctly, the gauge on the Racor unit 
will measure restriction in the fuel flow upstream of the gauge, ie 
the primary (30 µm in my case).     I know the gauge works because if 
you partially shut off the fuel lever, you see the gauge gradually 
increase in vacuum reading.  But it seems that it will not tell you if 
the secondary is plugged.


1. I don’t see how the secondary (10 µm in my case) could be plugged 
if the primary is fine but I guess not impossible.   My temptation is 
to replace the secondary since the primary is not showing any sign of 
being plugged (from the gauge), but I don’t see how this could lead to 
an infrequent intermittent stall.
2.  Fuel pump problem (loose wire etc.)?  You can hear the fuel pump 
running when the engine is off and I have never heard it stop or 
pause.  Can fuel pumps fail like this?  Can that lead to an 
intermittent stall?
3.  Air getting into fuel line- seems possible, but I don’t see how 
that can be the cause if the engine runs for an hour continuously once 
restarted.


Any ideas welcome!  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Stus-List Re: Engine strangeness x 2

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I have had two similar issues with A4:

1.  Coil overheats: shuts engine down after running heavily for hour or 
so, then restarts normally after sitting for half hour.  Moved the coil 
off the engine, has never happened since.


2.  Sudden and complete shut down while running normally: found that one 
of the round contact terminals on the points had broken off.


Your second issue sounds more like something slipping in the 
transmission, though A4's are not know for that problem.  Cavitation 
would be more likely related to plunging in to a wave or some sudden 
increase in load on the prop.



Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 6/13/2023 1:42 AM, Karl Kuzis via CnC-List wrote:

Since we are on stories of oddness I have 2.

First, when cruising along at modest rpm, will have a sudden shut 
down. Just off. No change in sound, smell, rpm, etc just as if 
ignition switch cut out. Suspecting a loose connection I proofed all 
wires / connections and we'll test it out cruising around next week. 
Any odd ideas to keep in mind?


Second, episodically when motoring at higher rpm close to hull speed 
will have a sudden racing of the engine with loss of power. Pull back 
throttle, and goes back to normal but not unusual to reoccur. Haven't 
noticed it at lower speed or rpm.
I'm suspicious of cavitation but haven't thought it thru as to causes, 
tests of theory, remedies or other options. Thoughts?


C 29 Mark 1 with a recently rebuilt Atomic 4 and 2 bade folding prop.

Karl Kuzis
Firefly
C Mk1
karl.ku...@gmail.com

On Tue, Jun 13, 2023, 3:18 AM Korbey Hunt via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Scary stuff. Frustrating when "professionals" muck things up.


Get Outlook for Android 



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Stus-List C Yachts logo

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I'm in the process of replacing my original A4 control panel as it has 
basically disintegrated.  It had the "C Yachts" logo engraved on it, 
does anyone happen to have a CAD file, .dxf or similar, available for 
use to recreate it in a CNC or engraving machine? (I apologize as I 
think this question has come up before on the list but I can't find 
anything searching the archives.)


Thanks,
Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY
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Stus-List Re: Half Century Club

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Same here, Weatherly turns 50 this year.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/25/2023 10:20 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Coquina is 50 this year. Who else do we have at or past the 
half-century mark?


*/Joe Della Barba Coquina C 35 MK I/*


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Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Steven,

Pretty sure you don't risk having the keel fall off without the forward 
bolt, as I said I have plans that show only the six larger bolts.  I'll 
try to get a scan of the large print to put on a Google drive.  Appears 
to me an after the fact addition to address the smile.



My mast step had about a 3" bow in the center when I went at it, if I 
tightened the shrouds it just bowed some more.  I didn't have any choice 
but to do something with, really.
I used 1/2" and 3/4" fiberglass board for the vertical suppots, for 
instance:
https://www.mcmaster.com/fiberglass-boards/structural-frp-fiberglass-sheets-bars-and-strips/thickness~1-2/length~24/width~24-1/ 

Bit of a PITA to work with, found the best way to cut it is with a jig 
saw using diamond grit masonry blades, but it beats laying up boards.
And actually I used a piece of the the above board under the layup of 
the mast step, at the bottom it was narrow enough to fit one piece in 
that spans the sump, then layed up the cloth/resin on top of it.  
Believe it or not, I used 27 layers in a single layup, just to get the 
height, was quite a trick in 85deg summer heat.  I'm sure you could use 
fewer layers.  And yes, each layer landed on the side of the hull 
adjacent to the span over the sump, just a small tab.


I think you could cut that little strip of fiberglass over the bolt, 
it's not structural, just holds up the covering boards.  Not sure I 
follow you about dropping the sole, do you mean in way of the step and 
keel bolt?


And I'll contact you off list, be interested seeing the boat if possible.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 10/30/2022 3:19 PM, steven.hickel--- via CnC-List wrote:


Thank you so much for all the additional helpful messages on this thread.

Neil, I don't see a way to private message from this thread. My email 
is just my first and last name with a period between at Gmail. I'll be 
at the boat, Fidelis, at evers Marina all the time till she can launch 
and is ready to sail.


Only thing, I need to finish the outside of the boat, since there's 
potentially only a couple days to get the boat in the water before the 
marina owner, who's the only crane operator at this marina, says he 
leaves for the season and the crane gets taken away for good. They're 
only taking powerboats here now on, as no crane is required. So, if 
one can really be sure the keel won't potentially drop at all in front 
if the front keel bolt comes off while in, water, potentially also 
letting water in that would be great. Then I could, do this in the water.


Thank you for the extra info, Neil and Dennis. I'm still looking 
around to see if I can find some reasonably priced high strength 
(epoxy?) fiberglass board to make things simpler. But, seems like 
fiberglassing from scratch would be a much better deal.


What thickness/ weight glass did you each use? How much glass and 
resin did you end up using?


It sounds like you put the cardboard forms, a box without sides or a 
top in the case of the mast support, in the bilge and then started 
fiberglassing inside that. Did you tape them to make sure they didn't 
move. Did you wrap them in plastic film, so you could peel them away 
after?


You just edge joined each strip to the bilge sides to keep everything 
flat, instead of trying bending/ tabbing to the sides at all, right?


Also, is there any issue with cutting away that transverse strip of 
floor with an access hole over the forward keel bolt and re-attaching 
it later, perhaps with screws? In fact, it would be really nice to 
drop the sole 2 to 3 inches in the walkway or whatever is possible for 
better headroom and cut the floor into pieces that pop in and out for 
better access if ever needed - though I don't know if there's a 
structural function provided by the floor/ liner that would be 
compromised. If feasible, perhaps doing this at the same time could be 
a possibility and provide better access? There's also a vertical 
wooden floor board starboard of the mast that looks like it's gotten 
soft. Would be nice to replace all such wood.


Also, I didn't realize that the mast support is actually all wood 
covered in a thin layer of fiberglass until reading the discussion 
here. The covering made it look like a big block of resin with a board 
underneath it. I'm guessing I could deal with this later. I can only 
feel a very slight bit of bowing underneath the support and there's 
just some dog eared corrosion on the end of the mast step that can be 
seen in pictures.


Thank You!

Hope it never comes to a c trawler, Joe.

Hope the sail patches up all right. Charles. My boat was in Maryland 
before I had her.

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Yes, we're talking about just the small bolt forward.  I think you could 
do this without taking the mast step out, bit tight but there's no 
connection between the bolt/wood and the step.  You could just use glass 
cloth, but I wanted the thickness of the fiberglass board, particularly 
the vertical part.  Are you having issues with the wood compressing?  
That's what triggered my repair job.


My guess is that it's (the forward bolt) an afterthought, as I indicated 
the plan I have for the 35-1 doesn't even show it, only the six bigger 
ones aft.  I'll try to scan/post the drawing to show you what I mean.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/25/2022 3:08 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Not looking forward to this, I thought I was done fixing this stuff ☹

The stock mast step does not come out without a lot of help from a 
hammer and chisel, I spend days on my knees chopping it out. My new 
one won’t come out either, it is thoroughly epoxied to the boat. I am 
not sure if I have this issue, but if I do I’ll need to work around 
the mast step. The first problem will be the 49 years of old oil, 
scum, and algae that have made that glass probably as nonstick as Teflon.


That bolt sticks up some, I could add layers of G10 glass and epoxy 
right over it and still get the nut back on.


We are talking about the very forward bolt, right? I will be even more 
annoyed if I have to fix ALL of them! All the rest seem to torque up 
just fine and do not look obviously compromised.


If I end up having to take the mast step back apart you might just see 
the first C 35 trawler cruising around!


*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

*From:* steven.hickel--- via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, October 25, 2022 2:59 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* steven.hic...@gmail.com
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel 
bolt material?


Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely 
helpful replies.


Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on 
top of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the 
forward face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the 
lost height. And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more 
resin, rather than replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was 
assuming I'd need to replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.


Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very 
eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of 
(am assuming) stainless steel that should be used?


As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't 
notice the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until 
after tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly 
filling the gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. 
There seemed to be lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of 
cloth in the lower area above the joint, though I don't know what's 
original. Some of it had cracked. You can also see a hairline crack in 
the picture where, after grinding exposed it, water drops were slowly 
leaking out from water in the bilge.


As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to 
raise it a little and support it from below to get access underneath? 
Were you able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it 
without grinding out that big block of resin between it and the mast 
step?


The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it 
ready to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from 
Glen Clove and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get 
input from someone familiar with all of this.


Thank you so much for the help!

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Steven,

I did leave the old wood in there.  Was a decision I had to make and 
wasn't sure what was the best approach, but yes, I enclosed it with the 
pieces I installed.  I thought the fiberglass would be strong enough.  I 
didn't have a backing plate on the bolt, just the washer, but after I 
had the crunching of the wood I put one in temporarily, maybe that's was 
done on your boat also?


I just happened to do both the mast step and the bolt at the same time, 
I think you could do them separately but access to the bolt was probably 
a lot easier with the mast step removed.  I had my mast pulled to 
replace the step, but I've heard suggestions that you could just raise 
it up and block it from the deck, though I don't think I'd be 
comfortable doing that for any length of time.


Getting the wood of the step out was easy, a Sawzall did the trick. 
Getting something in was a lot more complicated as you cannot fit a wide 
enough board through the opening in the cabin sole.  I used a fiberglass 
cloth layup on a form across the bilge sump so I could get the cloth 
into the space, I think I used 27 layers in one rather long layup.  I'd 
be happy to go into more detail if you want to contact me offline.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove NY

On 10/25/2022 2:58 PM, steven.hickel--- via CnC-List wrote:


Dennis and Neil, thank you so much for the very quick and extremely 
helpful replies.


Neil, if I understand correctly, you took off all of the fiberglass on 
top of the blocks, and tabbed a fiberglass board on the top and on the 
forward face, creating a boxed corner around them and replacing the 
lost height. And you left the wood blocks in place, encased in more 
resin, rather than replacing them with fiberglass blocks/ boards? Was 
assuming I'd need to replace the blocks to avoid the same issue later.


Looks like I'll need to grind out and replace what seems to be a very 
eaten away backing plate on the bolt. Is there a particular type of 
(am assuming) stainless steel that should be used?


As per the smile. I'm actually addressing that now. And I didn't 
notice the fiberglass separation around the forward smaller bolt until 
after tightening it to close the smile I added a picture before mostly 
filling the gap and will finish fiberglassing it on the first dry day. 
There seemed to be lot of resin and perhaps filler/ mat, instead of 
cloth in the lower area above the joint, though I don't know what's 
original. Some of it had cracked. You can also see a hairline crack in 
the picture where, after grinding exposed it, water drops were slowly 
leaking out from water in the bilge.


As per the mast step, did you have the mast out or is there a way to 
raise it a little and support it from below to get access underneath? 
Were you able to get to the wood board underneath and replace it 
without grinding out that big block of resin between it and the mast 
step?


The boat is on the hard at evers Marina in the Bronx. Have to get it 
ready to go back in the water in next week. If you come this way from 
Glen Clove and have the time, please reach out. Would be great to get 
input from someone familiar with all of this.


Thank you so much for the help!

Stus-List Re: Blocks under forward most keel bolt material?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Steven,

Your photos are causing me to have flashbacks...  I dealt with this very 
issue shortly after I got my boat: when I tightened that keel bolt I 
heard a crunching sound and the washer under the nut sank about a 1/2" 
before I realized what was going on.


Yes, there is wood beneath the forward-most 3/4" keel bolt. It's a stack 
of 3" - 4"  blocks with a thin (1/8" or so) layer of fiberglass on the 
top and on the forward face.   The forward face is the aft end of the 
sump under the mast step, in your first photo you're looking at the 
front of that stack which appears to have lost the fiberglass cover.  It 
looks like they kind of poured glass and resin around the stack to fill 
in between the wood and the hull.


My fix was to put a vertical piece of 3/4"" thick fiberglass board 
(McMaster Carr) on the front face of the wood, shaped to fit and tabbed 
into the sides of the sump, then another 3/4" glass board on top of the 
wood (removed the old stuff) also tabbed in to the side. The top board 
had a hole to fit over the keel bolt, and its front end landed on the 
vertical board.  I epoxied all the stuff in with lots of filler.


FWIW I think that forward keel bolt is an add on, as I have the original 
35-1 construction drawing and it just shows only the six 1" bolts and 
calls for wood filler in the entire sump.  The wood and keel bolt line 
up with the downward sloping forward end of the lead, in line with the 
"smile".


The job was not too complicated but a real PITA, as all the work is down 
in the sump, hard to get at and not much room to work, but overall 
doable.  I also replaced my sagging mast step at the same time, using 
layers of the glass board to span over the sump.  Also a PITA but 
apparently others have had to do it as well.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




On 10/24/2022 5:24 PM, steven.hickel--- via CnC-List wrote:


I have a C 35 mk I. I don't know what what the blocks under the, at 
least forward most, keel bolt are made of. It has a sort of wood 
grain, but feel like rock. The fiberglass on the forward-most keel 
bolt has separated on the starboard side. There's also a top at least 
mostly resin layer that seems to be peeling away suddenly under that 
bolt and in other sections of the bilge between bolts. I'm hoping that 
the blocks aren't wood inside of resin that have rotted at the bottom 
and sunk down and caused the laminate around the forward keel bolt to 
do the same. Can anyone shed any light here? Seems best to post before 
drilling a hole in the bilge to probe the material. Please see the 
linked photos



https://photos.app.goo.gl/fnTpJJrbdAQ8htiH8

Thank you so much for any help and for this forum

Stus-List Re: 35 MK I Mainsheet and Vang

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

My 35-1 has a 6:1 purchase on a Harken traveller, and I have to pull 
reasonable hard to get the boom tight in any kind of breeze. I don't 
think a 4:1 would do it.  That said, in light airs the 4:1 would be 
nice.  Maybe you could use 6:1 but drop it to 4:1 in light airs, which, 
having sailed out of Annapolis for 5 years, I know you get a lot of in 
the summer.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/23/2022 12:37 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:

I just now unrigged the mainsheet and replaced it with a 4:1 mainsheet and cam 
cleat that I had as a preventer for a proof-of-concept. The preventer has been 
on the boat for so long I forgot where it came from, but looking at the 
mainsheet systems online and at Bacons it became obvious this IS a mainsheet so 
I decided to try it out. So far it has only got a light air test, I am loving 
the lack of friction compared to the stock system that goes up to the mast and 
back to a winch.
My question is this; will 4:1 be enough? Bacon's has a 6:1 mainsheet for a 
reasonable price, I can buy that and send the 4:1 back to preventer duty easily 
enough.

While I was at it I noticed the vang, one of those Quick-Vangs with a spring, 
had the line fed through a turning block far enough from the mast that it had a 
significant change in tension as the boom swung. I have no idea how I haven't 
stared at this for decades and not noticed, the yard installed it ages ago and 
I just never realized they did it wrong. Now the line feeds to a turning block 
almost at the pivot point, changes in tension will be almost nonexistant.


Joe Della Barba
Coquina C 35 MK I
Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

When I first torqued the forward-most keel bolt, the 3/4" one, I heard 
some crunching sounds and found out there's wood under the top 
fiberglass layer below the keel bolt,  inside the deep V of the lower 
hull.  Pretty sure it's the same under the others farther aft.  It was a 
tedious repair, done in conjunction with the mast step replacement.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 9/25/2022 2:32 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


I hadn’t thought of that! The keel is slowly getting shorter. If I 
keep the boat another 50 years I won’t be aground at extra-low tide!


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

*From:* Leeward Rail via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Sunday, September 25, 2022 1:24 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Leeward Rail 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: C 35 MK I Keel Bolts

The keel bolts are in lead. Lead is soft and eventually they would 
pull upwards slightly.  I would assume that is why.   I have been 
planning to contact MARSKEEL and get some pro info.

Stus-List Re: Winter storage options near Buzzards Bay, MA

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

My info might be a bit old but when I bought my boat it had been in 
Somerset Marina for 3 yrs on the hard.  It was marginal for a 35' 
sailboat, could only launch at high tide, had to bring in an outside 
crane to hoist a mast more than 50'.  On the other hand it was a good 
place for DIY, they didn't care what you did on the boat.  The yard crew 
was good, the owner bit of a crank.  Use with caution, I guess.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/17/2022 11:53 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List wrote:
No. I don't know anything about any of these yards except that they 
aren't owned by Safe Harbor.

Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

phone  +401 965 5260


On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 11:49 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks Andy!   Taunton river sounds convenient for winter work! 
Close to the house!

I was also considering somerset marina on the Taunton River.  Any
thoughts on that facility?

On Sep 17, 2022 11:14 AM, Andrew Burton via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Danny,
Check out Stanley's in Bristol and Shaws, O'connell's and
Bristol Marine up the Taunton River. I think everything else
in Narragansett Bay is owned by Safe Harbor.
Andy

Andrew Burton
26 Beacon Hill
Newport, RI
USA 02840
http://sites.google.com/site/andrewburtonyachtservices/

phone  +401 965 5260


On Sat, Sep 17, 2022 at 10:36 AM Danny Haughey via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Hello all,
Was wondering if anyone had any suggestions for winter
storage somewhere around Buzzards Bay. Narragansett bay is
an option too.

The yard I was using needs to drop the mast and they can
be a little clumsy. They've damaged my boat several times
in their handling and I've done a massive amount of
cosmetic work over the last couple of years that I'd like
to protect.

I've also just completely rehabbed the mast. So, dropping
it seems like a waste of effort and cost right now. So,
I'd like to find a mast up solution if possible.

Thanks for any insights anyone can offer!

Danny
Rum Runner IV
T40
Mattapoisett MA

Stus-List Re: Engine tachometer

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

On small diesels the tach gets its information from the alternator, it 
uses the frequency of the alternating current, proportional to the 
alternator's RPM, before the current goes through the rectifiers to be 
converted to DC.  This could mean the electrical connection on the 
alternator for tach (usually terminal marked "W") could be loose, or a 
bad connection between the alternator and the tach.  If the speed showed 
slower it could mean the belt is slipping but in your case it's showing 
higher, so more likely in the connections or in the tach itself.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 7/26/2022 7:03 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
Yesterday, I was motoring and noticed that the engine tachometer was 
acting strangely.  It would read 4000 rpm for a while and then drop 
back to 2000 rpm (roughly correct).  Then it would go up to 3000 rpm 
and hold there.  It kept bouncing around while the actual engine was 
steady, so it was just the tach.  I have no idea where the data comes 
from, what would cause this, and whether to worry about it.  The 
engine is a Universal M4-30.  Thanks- Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mainsheet

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

I have the system you're describing.  Just a plain 6:1 through a cam 
cleat on a Harken traveler car with continuous control line.  It's 
great, I can sail from the windward rail just like a dingy, wheel in one 
hand and sheet or traveler in the other.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 7/15/2022 7:34 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


My traveler is just ahead of the wheel.

Having the sheer control there would be quite convenient.

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

Stus-List Re: Barient 26 winch questions

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Drum:

Base  7.0" dia
Top:  6.0" dia
Rope Drum: tapered, 3.5" dia widest at bottom.

Let me know if you need more info, I have one apart in my garage.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 7/13/2022 2:22 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Does anyone know the drum diameter of the Barient 26s that are on the 
35 MK I?


Also do I dare take them apart for greasing? If a spring shoots 
overboard can I still get more?


Thanks!

Joe

Coquina

Stus-List Re: Storm damaged marina? Are you liable?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Interesting.  My local marine, Safe Harbor (ex Brewers) just last year 
required all boat owner to list the marina as a covered entity on their 
insurance policies to the tune of $500,000 liability coverage.  My 
insurance did that a no cost, but I was kind of wondering how it would 
in actual fact be applied.  Thanks for letting us know.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 3/11/2022 10:56 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

I may have posted this before but a new development has occurred.

I had Touche' in a marina in Pensacola during Hurricane Sally in 
September 2020.  The boat was in a slip on a floating pier well up 
Bayou Chico.  Similarly constructed piers are advertised as being safe 
for Category 3 storms. Although it was properly secured, Touche' 
sustained moderate damage during the storm.


Subsequent to the storm, I, and several other owners of boats moored 
on this pier, received letters from the marina's legal counsel 
informing us that OUR boats had damaged THEIR pier and that we were 
liable for damages in excess of $15,000.  Another marina in the 
Pensacola area which was destroyed has also sent letters advising 
liability to their tenant boatowners. The new development: another 
owner informed me that he had gotten a letter last week raising the 
liability to $57,000. I have not received a similar letter.


Based on my personal post-storm inspection of the pier, here's what I 
believe occurred.  The marina allowed a LARGE power catamaran to be 
moored on my pier. During the storm, this vessel apparently broke 
loose.  I observed the cleats to which I believe the vessel's stern 
lines were attached were missing, having been ripped from the dock.  
When it broke loose it apparently pulled the main portion of my pier 
and caused extensive structural damage to the pier.  Namely, all the 
attached finger piers became tilted and/or broke loose from the main 
pier. Several boats which were moored in the slips were damaged as a 
result.  It is my belief that had the catamaran not broken loose, 
Touche' would have weathered the strorm unscathed.


Although this legal action may be a standard procedure in order for 
the marinas to establish contributory/shared liabilities for insurance 
purposes, it can be stressful for boat owners.  My marina required me 
to list them as co-insured so this issue is basically between the 
marina and my insurance provider now.  If I receive another letter, 
I'll just forward it to my insurance provider like I did with the 
first one.  My insurance provider basically told them to pound sand.


Just advising the list.  You might want to contact your insurance 
provider.


--
Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.


Custom laser engraved cutting boards are available at the C Photo Album site.

Stus-List Re: What's up with this boat?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Price drop by 50% in 7 months.

https://moreboats.com/boats/c/39-ne/154741

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/7/2021 11:36 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


https://www.boattrader.com/boat/1985-c-c-39-northeast-7277234/

The price seems amazingly (or maybe depressingly) low.

Is the old Volvo beat or scaring people? Nearly 8 foot draft too
much? If this boat wouldn’t be aground a half-mile from my slip I
would be tempted myself.

Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: wind instrument

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

My experience with the Tacktick, now Raymarine wireless is that it's 
really nice when it works, but I've struggled with it since I installed 
it about five years ago.  I know others on the list have had good 
experience with it (we've discussed this on the list in the past), but 
while all the other inputs work fine (hull transmitter), the wind sensor 
keeps dropping out.  I've changed batteries and bearings, not much 
difference.  Others seem to have had good success with it, YMMV.



Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/21/2021 1:59 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


I have a few questions:

- Any recommendations for the wind instrument (Raymarine, Garmin, 
B)? My first choice would be a unit that talks NMEA 2000 (SeatalkNG) 
(as opposed to an analog unit that requires an extra device (iTC-5?) 
to connect. But this is mainly to control the costs.


- With limited space at the helm, what is the minimum requirement to 
feed the wind data to the EV-100 autopilot? I don’t think I need the 
detailed wind angle displayed, as long as the AP can follow. Though I 
could put the wind display somewhere else (on the bulkhead?). But if 
that display is not required AND I could save the cost by not 
including it, I might be fine with that.


- Any strong recommendations against the wireless?

- Any other suggestions or recommendations?




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Alternator

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I'm staying with lead-acid batteries.  As Dave points out, it may not be 
worth the cost to upgrade, I may just have my existing alternator rebuilt.


Thanks for the info.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/15/2021 6:29 AM, j...@dellabarba.com wrote:


Note you will need one of these to fit a Balmar, 10si clone, or other 
alternator that isn’t a stock Motorola onto an A4:


https://moyermarine.com/product/alternator-support-arm-late-model-ovel_03_222/

Balmar does make alternators that fit, but be prepared to spend $ 
if you buy one new. Moyer sells a couple of them too. What kind of 
batteries are you charging?


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

*From:*Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 8:24 PM
*To:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: A4 Alternator

Joe,

Thanks, that's good info.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/14/2021 6:48 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:

The 60 amp Balmar I have fit the mounts just fine.

Here is a thread about installing it.

Balmar Alternator Installation and Test - Moyer Marine Atomic 4
Community - Home of the Afourians (moyermarineforum.com)

<https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10322=Balmar>

I only paid around $60 for it if I recall correctly. A new Balmar
is very expensive and probably not worth putting on an A4. Due to
the pulley ratios you are not likely to get more than 50-60 amps
out of any alternator you put on there.

*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

C 35 MK I

*From:*Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 6:31 PM
*To:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
<mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher 
<mailto:njgallag...@optonline.net>
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: anyone gone lithium?

Joe,

Also a bit of thread creep, but I'm in the process of rebuilding
or replacing my alternator on the A4.  Does the Balmar fit on the
engine without significant modifications?

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove NY




Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with 
the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: A4 Alternator

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Thanks, that's good info.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/14/2021 6:48 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


The 60 amp Balmar I have fit the mounts just fine.

Here is a thread about installing it.

Balmar Alternator Installation and Test - Moyer Marine Atomic 4 
Community - Home of the Afourians (moyermarineforum.com) 
<https://www.moyermarineforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10322=Balmar>


I only paid around $60 for it if I recall correctly. A new Balmar is 
very expensive and probably not worth putting on an A4. Due to the 
pulley ratios you are not likely to get more than 50-60 amps out of 
any alternator you put on there.


*/Joe Della Barba/*

Coquina

C 35 MK I

*From:*Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 6:31 PM
*To:* Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
*Cc:* Neil Gallagher 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: anyone gone lithium?

Joe,

Also a bit of thread creep, but I'm in the process of rebuilding or 
replacing my alternator on the A4.  Does the Balmar fit on the engine 
without significant modifications?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove NY



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: [EXTERNAL] Re: anyone gone lithium?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Also a bit of thread creep, but I'm in the process of rebuilding or 
replacing my alternator on the A4.  Does the Balmar fit on the engine 
without significant modifications?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove NY

On 9/14/2021 2:31 PM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


I have a 60 amp Balmar. The Atomic 4 has a small drive pulley, so 
getting much past 50 amps never happens.


Also lead-acid batteries of all types only charge quickly for awhile 
and then taper off, so it probably takes as long to get the last 25% 
in as it did to get the first 75%.


Right now I am looking at around $500 or more for a 4D gel that is 
about 190 AH or $750 or so for a 200AH Lithium battery.  The lithium 
battery should outlast the gel by at least 3-4 times or more. I could 
probably do even better DIYing the cells.


Thread creep – My buddy just bought an airplane and his hangar has no 
power. I am helping him set up a solar powered system for the hangar 
that will do lights, an inverter, and charge the airplane. We think 
we’ll  be able to fit enough batteries to run a block heater, which is 
300 watts, for 4-5 hours or so every now and then.


*/Joe Della Barba/*

*/Coquina/*

*From:* Dreuge via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, September 14, 2021 2:01 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Della Barba, Joe ; Dreuge 


*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Stus-List Re: anyone gone lithium?

Joe,

What is your alternator rated at?   I was lucky to charge my FLA 
batteries at half rating, but now I easily charge at 110A.   You may 
want to consider the Renogy DCC1212-60A or the DCC50S \(w/ MPPT).


Balmer sells these alternator protectors which are basically a short 
wire with a Zener in the middle.  You connect one end to +V alternator 
terminal and the other end to the alternator GND terminal.  But as you 
pointed out, you get one life protection, but worse is figuring that out.


Paul

-
Paul E.

1981 C Landfall 38
S/V Johanna Rose
Fort Walton Beach, FL



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Stus-List Re: the rum is gone! (and the boat too)

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

News in the marine business world:

https://www.maritime-executive.com/article/stolen-yacht-sent-distress-signal-and-disappeared-in-hurricane-larry

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 9/12/2021 8:19 AM, Graham Collins via CnC-List wrote:


List member John noticed a posting on BoatWatch 
 
and connected the dots that it is my boat missing.  The short version 
- Wednesday night my boat was stolen, sailed out of Halifax into the 
middle of  Hurricane Larry, where the thief had sufficient issues to 
merit activating a PLB that was onboard. PLB battery has since died, 
and searching for the boat has only resulted in sighting flares Friday 
night.


Working theory is that the thief is an escaped drug smuggler from 
Antigua who had recently been arrested smuggling $60m of coke into the 
country (by sailboat) and escaped during a hospital checkup.


I couldn't make this up...

--
Graham Collins
Secret Plans
C 35-III #11


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: universal M20 diesel question

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dave,

This link below should bring up the service manual for the M20, on p. 17 
of the .pdf, Fig. 37 shows the HP pump with the governor on the left 
end.  It's kind of integral to the pump, looks difficult to remove 
separate from the pump.  If sticking is the issue one thought would be 
to try to flush some diesel oil, maybe with some Marvel Mystery Oil 
added, in through governor while it's in place.  You'd have to open up 
the top of the unit, which gets tricky pretty fast, but if you could 
just get a gap you could flush oil through.  You could hold the 
compression release down and spin the engine while spraying. After that 
I'd flush with lube oil and do an oil change.


As I mentioned I took one of these apart last year, contact me off line 
if you want to talk more about it.


https://www.google.com/search?q=universal+westerbeke+M20+governor=firefox-b-1-d=1017=651=FBY4YeOmLe2l5NoP0Zq34AI=universal+westerbeke+M20+governor_lcp=Cgdnd3Mtd2l6EAMyBQghEKABOgcIABBHELADOgoIABBHELADEMkDOgUIIRCrAjoHCCEQChCgAUoFCDwSATFKBAhBGAFQnt0YWObtGGCj7xhoAXAAeACAAawBiAGOCJIBAzQuNZgBAKABAcgBCMABAQ=gws-wiz=0ahUKEwjjgLj3oO7yAhXtElkFHVHNDSwQ4dUDCA0=5

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/7/2021 10:36 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:


Thanks Neil – We did check for fuel returning but only at varying 
no-load RPMs, not under load.


There should be no air or water in the system- we also ran it from a 
jury rigged tank, no filter, clean fuel, so I’m pretty sure those 
basics were eliminated.


No offense taken – most of the time people do miss these things.

We haven’t torn things down too far yet. Any way to check for a 
sticking governor?


Dave

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986> for 
Windows


*From: *Neil Gallagher via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Sent: *September 7, 2021 10:13 PM
*To: *Dave via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>
*Cc: *Neil Gallagher <mailto:njgallag...@optonline.net>
*Subject: *Stus-List Re: universal M20 diesel question

Dave,

Sure sounds like a fuel issue.  The governor does not restrict flow, 
it sets the rotation of the plungers in the HP pump which controls how 
much fuel in delivered to the injectors.  The fuel not used or which 
leaks by the pump plungers is what returns to the tank.  Under light 
load you'll hardly see any return fuel, more as the load goes up.


The governor works by a balance between a spring and flyweights, the 
throttle lever adjusts the spring tension and engine speed sets the 
flyweight position.  A quick look at the M20 tech manual shows the 
governor is right in the HP pump assembly, it's possible the governor 
is sticking and causing slow response but it may also be worn fuel 
pump. You'd have to pull the whole assembly and send for rebuild. Cost 
me about $700 for that on an M3-20B engine last year on my club launch.


Before that extreme, however, let me ask the more obvious questions 
(don't mean to offend, just asking): any water in the fuel?  That 
could give a slow response, or maybe an air leak on the fuel supply 
hoses, though it sounds like you've checked that?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 9/7/2021 9:16 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:

Evening all. Trying to help a neighbour here with a diesel
issue.   His engine will rev freely at idle but with the
transmission engaged in either forward or reverse, revs increase
very  slowly and only to 1800-2000 RPM on the tach.   (whether
tach is accurate or not, RPM under load is much lower than
no-load, and  RPM increases quite slowly.)

We have verified that neither the exhaust system nor the fuel
supply to the high pressure pump is obstructed.  Air Intake is
clear.  The speed lever works smoothly to its full travel.   The
compression release is not engaged. The engine runs a new facet
electric fuel pump with plenty of flow.

When the engine is running, no fuel returns to the tank via the
return line.  The return line is not blocked, at least not
downstream from the return barb at the injector.  I am not sure
under what circumstances the fuel should return to the tank in a
diesel, as the return occurs after the high pressure pump.

All This leads me to suspect a fuel (volume) problem but i am not
exactly sure where to look next.      I believe all that’s left
are injectors and high pressure pump.  The high pressure pump has
a governor, not sure if that functions by restricting fuel flow.

Any thoughts?

Many thanks! Dave 33-2

Sent from Mail <https://go.microsoft.com/fwlink/?LinkId=550986>
for Windows




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the costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal 
to send contribution --https://www.paypal.me/stumurray   Thanks - Stu



Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs 

Stus-List Re: universal M20 diesel question

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dave,

Sure sounds like a fuel issue.  The governor does not restrict flow, it 
sets the rotation of the plungers in the HP pump which controls how much 
fuel in delivered to the injectors.  The fuel not used or which leaks by 
the pump plungers is what returns to the tank.  Under light load you'll 
hardly see any return fuel, more as the load goes up.


The governor works by a balance between a spring and flyweights, the 
throttle lever adjusts the spring tension and engine speed sets the 
flyweight position.  A quick look at the M20 tech manual shows the 
governor is right in the HP pump assembly, it's possible the governor is 
sticking and causing slow response but it may also be worn fuel pump.  
You'd have to pull the whole assembly and send for rebuild.  Cost me 
about $700 for that on an M3-20B engine last year on my club launch.


Before that extreme, however, let me ask the more obvious questions 
(don't mean to offend, just asking): any water in the fuel?  That could 
give a slow response, or maybe an air leak on the fuel supply hoses, 
though it sounds like you've checked that?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 9/7/2021 9:16 PM, Dave via CnC-List wrote:


Evening all.   Trying to help a neighbour here with a diesel issue.   
His engine will rev freely at idle but with the transmission engaged 
in either forward or reverse, revs increase very  slowly and only to 
1800-2000 RPM on the tach.   (whether tach is accurate or not, RPM 
under load is much lower than no-load, and  RPM increases quite slowly.)


We have verified that neither the exhaust system nor the fuel supply 
to the high pressure pump is obstructed.  Air Intake is clear.  The 
speed lever works smoothly to its full travel.   The compression 
release is not engaged.  The engine runs a new facet electric fuel 
pump with plenty of flow.


When the engine is running, no fuel returns to the tank via the return 
line.  The return line is not blocked, at least not downstream from 
the return barb at the injector.  I am not sure under what 
circumstances the fuel should return to the tank in a diesel, as the 
return occurs after the high pressure pump.


All This leads me to suspect a fuel (volume) problem but i am not 
exactly sure where to look next.      I believe all that’s left are 
injectors and high pressure pump.  The high pressure pump has a 
governor, not sure if that functions by restricting fuel flow.


Any thoughts?

Many thanks!   Dave 33-2

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows




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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: Universal M4-30 exhaust system

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dwight:

A friend has a Universal in his boat, and he had the same exhaust leak 
problem.  What he didn't realize was that the water also leaked backed 
in to the cylinders, and froze up his engine.  You might want to look at 
that, apparently it's a common occurrence with a leaking exhaust elbow.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 8/21/2021 8:16 AM, dwight veinot via CnC-List wrote:
In dealing with my fuel pump replacement I discovered that the exhaust 
system is in dire need of repair. Has anyone with this engine ever 
tried to remove the flange that connects the exhaust pipe to the 
exhaust manifold. My exhaust pipe has broken and is leaking black 
exhaust gas and now copious amounts of water into the engine 
compartment. It is attached to the manifold with 3 bolts (studs). The 
upper 2 bolts are accessible and after a  couple applications of 
penetrating oil (50/50 ATF/acetone) I was able to get them loose. The 
3rd bolt however is hidden and it seems I may have to remove the heat 
exchanger to even get a 14 mm wrench on it. I am hoping someone may 
have discovered a “secret” aside from turning the job over to someone 
else. --

Sent from Gmail Mobile


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


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Stus-List Pathfinder

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dave,

Hearing about Pathfinder takes me way back, haven't heard a word about 
her or the other STV's in decades.  I sailed on her during three summers 
in the early '70's, was a wonderful experience. Thanks for the link, sad 
to see it retired.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 8/15/2021 10:56 AM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:
Sure - You probably do it all the time - a good example would be a 
dock line where you take a half turn around a cleat to take the load 
and grab the line between the cleat and the boat, and pull at 90deg, 
then take up the slack with the running end. It’s a simple way to 
increase mechanical advantage.


The expression was used on STV pathfinder when I was a teenager. (Late 
70s early 80’s) It means rather that pulling directly on a line, you 
pulllaterally, then tailing the slack created.  This was how the yards 
and halyards would be given their final hoist.  There was typically a 
turning block on deck, and one or two crewmembers ‘horsed’ on the line 
while another tailed with the line around a belaying pin on the pinrail.


This may also be known as ‘sweating’ the line up/in.  Not sure about 
that though.


https://www.canadianyachting.ca/news-and-events/current/4363-the-brigantine-pathfinder-retires

Using this method against the The ratcheting block on the furling line 
helps me get the first few feet of sail furled when the wind is blowing.


Dave


Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 15, 2021, at 9:30 AM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
 wrote:



Sorry, I don't know the reference "horse and tail" regarding the 
furler line, and I couldn't find it using a Google search.


Would you explain further please?

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
Madeira Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092

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Stus-List Re: Radar Mount

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I'm quite interested in this question as well, I bought a Raymarine 
Quantum 2 and am debating how to mount it.  Supposed to be safer 
regarding zapping people.


Garhauer makes a nice looking stern-mount radar mast, it allows you to 
set the angle when on a tack, not a gimbal. But they told me they're 
delivery time is a least four weeks right now, can't get materials.

https://www.garhauermarine.com/transom-hardware-accessories/radar-towers-accessories.html

Anyone build a radar tower as DIY?

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 7/10/2021 3:45 PM, Korbey Hunt via CnC-List wrote:
I know  it is traditional to mount radar on the mast but I am thinking 
of mounting it on a post on the stern with an antenna farm.  Any 
thoughts on this option?


Get Outlook for Android 


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costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
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Stus-List Re: UFO NOISE

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Doug,

I run messenger lines in place of my halyards for the winter and this 
past winter the parachute cord I use for the main halyard sings like a 
guitar string in very gentle breezes.  When I tighten it up it changes 
pitch.  Willing to bet somewhere you've got a vibrating line, as others 
noted the telltale being "only when a wind blowing".


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/18/2021 8:18 PM, Doug Mountjoy via CnC-List wrote:
For the past couple of months I have had a harmonic noise that sounds 
like a UFO. It appears to be coming from the mast, but only with a 
wind blowing, light or otherwise.
Being moored across the bay from Puget Sound Naval Shipyard first few  
times I heard it, had me looking outside for UFOs. I don't think its 
wind in the rigging.
It just started this year when I got back from my 5 month road trip to 
Florida.

Is Rebecca Leah punishing me for being gone so long?


Sent from my T-Mobile 4G LTE Device

Doug Mountjoy
Port Orchard YC
Port Orchard,  WA
Rebecca Leah
1988 LF39



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Stus-List Re: Alternate to Spartite

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe (and any other 35-1 owners),

I've looked at that as a sealer inside the deck ring at the partners, 
and I'm wondering how you managed to plug the bottom of the ring.  On my 
boat there's almost no clearance between the head's longitudinal 
bulkhead and the mast, were you able to work clay into that space?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 4/27/2021 8:50 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


Remember the Spartite kit comes with clay to plug the gap, you’ll need 
some modeling clay too.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina C 35 MK I

Kent Island MD USA

*From:* Rod Stright via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, April 27, 2021 3:40 AM
*To:* 'Stus-List' 
*Cc:* Rod Stright 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Alternate to Spartite

Thanks Paul that looks like it would work

*From:* s/v Johanna Rose via CnC-List >

*Sent:* April-26-21 10:16 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
*Cc:* dre...@gmail.com 
*Subject:* Stus-List Re: Alternate to Spartite

Rod,

I have a copy of Wally’s Stella Blue page where he uses a Spartite 
alternative purchased from McMaster-Carr (part number 8644K18).


Paul E



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send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: Even More Atomic 4 Troubles

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Lee,

I'd suggest you take a look at the carburetor, stuff tends to grow 
there.  I had a similar situation over a long winter layup and found, 
believe it or not, spider webs in the carb.  It's not too hard to take 
out the main jet, spray down with carb cleaner and blow everything out.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 4/12/2021 3:03 PM, Lee Goss via CnC-List wrote:

Ahoy!

When our C MK.1 was taken out of the water last season the engine 
was left running... until it eventually just stopped.


We've just tried starting it for the first time using a bucket of 
water, and whilst we did get it running; it doesn't sound like it use to!


Could anyone familiar with Atomic 4's please listen to these videos 
and let me know your thoughts?


Link to videos:

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/19oxLLMBcHKWucEAp5QbH19TYT_PR7eEn?usp=sharing


Many thanks in advance for any help.

Lee
C 29 MK.1
Lake Michigan


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Stus-List Re: Broken engine mount bolt

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Josh,

Did you happen to get a look at the broken bolt looking across the face 
of the break?  Good possibility it was a fatigue failure which occurs at 
stresses well below the breaking strength, in which case you can 
sometimes see the "beach marks" as the failure works its way across the 
section.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 2/24/2021 8:47 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

Dennis,

Your number of 7500 lbs confirms my number of 7200 lbs.  That just 
seems incredibly high considering the OEM decided that 2 bolts would 
be required.  It also seems ridiculous that one of them broke.  I am 
at a complete loss as to how that would have happened.


Josh




On Tue, Feb 23, 2021, 12:00 Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I'm guessing the thread degradation doesn't have much effect on
the strength as long as the shaft is not damaged.  Having said
that, the shear strength of a M12 10.9 hardness bolt is about 7500
lbs.

Did I win?  What's my prize?  Can it be shipped or do I need to
pick it up/sail it home?

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Tue, Feb 23, 2021 at 9:42 AM Josh Muckley via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Engineering discussion for the group.

Here's the background.  For about 9 years I have known about
having 1 of the 2 bolts broken on the forward starboard engine
mount. These bolts hold a piece of 1/2 inch plate steel which
was bent at a 90° angle to the vertical side of the engine. 
This creates a horizontal shelf. The shelf then rests directly
on the vibration dampening mount which is then bolted to the
boat. Periodically, I have made attempts to extract the bolt
but only a few days ago was I finally successful.  The bolt
was a M12x1.75.  I don't know what hardness the OEM called
for.  Years ago when I discovered the broken bolt I was quick
to replace the remaining good one with one having a hardness
of 10.9.  For a fresh start, I now intend to replace both of
them with new and again a hardness of 10.9.  In removing the
old bolt, my drill hole was off center and ended up cutting
some of the threads.  I approximate not more than 1/4 of the
thread integrity was compromised.

https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15GCOH3qKIWXl1lmjsbZqsf-ECGCrl1fN

Here comes the question(s).  Just for kicks, I decide to
attempt to figure out what the sheer strength of the engine
mounting bolts are individually.  I came up with an answer but
would like hear what the group comes up with.

I also now have a bunch of other questions tumbling around
like:  How much weight would it take to break one?  How much
margin to failure did I have while operating for the last 9
years?  What could have possibly caused this bolt to break
prior to my ownership?  Theories and ponderings are welcome.

With 1/4 of the threads degraded on the newly available bolt
hole, I plan to only torque the bolt to ~50% of max (90
ft-lbs) which would be ~45 ft-lbs.  I'll also make sure that
the lock washer is fully collapsed but I'm confident that that
will happen well before final torque is reached.  In sheer, I
believe this bolt is providing as much or more strength simply
by being there than anything to do with its torque.  All
though, I have heard the engineering theory that (when built
appropriately) the bolts apply the pressure which creates the
friction to prevent the pieces from moving in sheer.  Under
this argument the 2 pieces of metal don't actually ride on the
bolt shank specifically, and the surface area where the 2
pieces touch is of particular importance.  Looking at the
engine castings, it would appear that maximizing surface area
contact was not considered.  As such, I can only fall back on
my previous thought that the bolt shank is in fact carrying
the load in sheer and torque is more or less irrelevant except
for the purpose of keeping the bolt tight.  I'm also aware of
various thread repair options but in the awkward location I am
fearful that I would cause more damage than good by attempting
any of them.  Particularly if the value added by the second
bolt truly is its presence not its torque.

All thoughts and insights are encouraged.


All the best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD
Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list
to help with the costs involved.  If you want to show your
support to the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
https://www.paypal.me/stumurray Thanks - Stu



-- 
Dennis 

Stus-List Re: Broken engine mount bolt

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Josh,

Not quite sure I got this right, are these horizontal bolts into the 
side of the engine or vertical to the boat?  In either case, though, the 
bolts and plate are carrying the load - most of which is the thrust 
loading of the propeller through the mounts and driving the boat - by a 
combination of shear and friction.  To be only shear, you'd have to have 
fitted bolts in the plate which I doubt is the case, so here most of the 
load is probably through friction.  The 10.9 designation, while related 
to hardness,  is a strength measure for metric bolts, about equal to 
Grade 8 in SAE bolts.  So you have high strength bolts allowing greater 
torque, thus greater friction, which increases the plate's ability to 
transfer thrust.


Having said all that, for sure there's overkill in this.  You've been 
operating fine for 9 years with 7 instead of 8 bolts total, so putting 
the last one back in even with somewhat compromised threads should be 
fine.  If you can run a tap into the hole to clean the threads it would 
help, but my thoughts are to just go with it.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 2/23/2021 10:41 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:

Engineering discussion for the group.

Here's the background.  For about 9 years I have known about having 1 
of the 2 bolts broken on the forward starboard engine mount.  These 
bolts hold a piece of 1/2 inch plate steel which was bent at a 90° 
angle to the vertical side of the engine.  This creates a horizontal 
shelf.  The shelf then rests directly on the vibration dampening mount 
which is then bolted to the boat. Periodically, I have made attempts 
to extract the bolt but only a few days ago was I finally successful.  
The bolt was a M12x1.75.  I don't know what hardness the OEM called 
for.  Years ago when I discovered the broken bolt I was quick to 
replace the remaining good one with one having a hardness of 10.9.  
For a fresh start, I now intend to replace both of them with new and 
again a hardness of 10.9.  In removing the old bolt, my drill hole was 
off center and ended up cutting some of the threads.  I approximate 
not more than 1/4 of the thread integrity was compromised.


https://drive.google.com/folderview?id=15GCOH3qKIWXl1lmjsbZqsf-ECGCrl1fN

Here comes the question(s).  Just for kicks, I decide to attempt to 
figure out what the sheer strength of the engine mounting bolts are 
individually.  I came up with an answer but would like hear what the 
group comes up with.


I also now have a bunch of other questions tumbling around like:  How 
much weight would it take to break one?  How much margin to failure 
did I have while operating for the last 9 years?  What could have 
possibly caused this bolt to break prior to my ownership?  Theories 
and ponderings are welcome.


With 1/4 of the threads degraded on the newly available bolt hole, I 
plan to only torque the bolt to ~50% of max (90 ft-lbs) which would be 
~45 ft-lbs.  I'll also make sure that the lock washer is fully 
collapsed but I'm confident that that will happen well before final 
torque is reached.  In sheer, I believe this bolt is providing as much 
or more strength simply by being there than anything to do with its 
torque.  All though, I have heard the engineering theory that (when 
built appropriately) the bolts apply the pressure which creates the 
friction to prevent the pieces from moving in sheer.  Under this 
argument the 2 pieces of metal don't actually ride on the bolt shank 
specifically, and the surface area where the 2 pieces touch is of 
particular importance. Looking at the engine castings, it would appear 
that maximizing surface area contact was not considered.  As such, I 
can only fall back on my previous thought that the bolt shank is in 
fact carrying the load in sheer and torque is more or less irrelevant 
except for the purpose of keeping the bolt tight.  I'm also aware of 
various thread repair options but in the awkward location I am fearful 
that I would cause more damage than good by attempting any of them.  
Particularly if the value added by the second bolt truly is its 
presence not its torque.


All thoughts and insights are encouraged.


All the best,

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu


Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
costs involved.  If you want to show your support to the list - use PayPal to 
send contribution --   https://www.paypal.me/stumurray  Thanks - Stu

Stus-List Re: C 35 Mk 1

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Glen,

I installed a Rule electric bilge pump that sits in the after part of 
the bilge and discharges into the port forward cockpit scupper drain 
hose just under the cockpit sole (opposite the scupper with the sink 
drain).  A check valve is a good idea with this arrangement, even though 
the connection into the drain is above the waterline.  I then put a 
float switch on a strap (stainless) that has a hole big enough to fit 
over one of the keelbolts, uing a jam nut to hold the strap to the bolt.


It's a long story but my boat does not have the deep sump under the mast 
step - it was filled in - but if you put the suction hose down into the 
sump it will need a float switch there also.  There are switches that 
would fit but it would a job getting one in there, I would imagine.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/25/2021 4:25 PM, Glen Eddie via CnC-List wrote:


Hello everyone,

I have a C 35 Mk I.  As many know, it didn’t come with an automatic 
bilge pump (just a manual whale gusher).  I want to install an 
automatic bilge pump this off season and would like to hear 
suggestions.  I think the hose should go into the bilge well below the 
mast step but I am wondering to what people affixed the switch.


As always, thanks in advance.








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Stus-List Re: C Rendezvous at Maritime Museum in Kingston?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Just idle speculation but it's about 400 mi one way from New York Harbor 
to Kingston via the Hudson River/Erie & Oswego Canals and crossing Lake 
Ontario, so add the 300 mi or so one way from the Chesapeake to NYC you 
are talking over a 1,200 mi round trip, but you don't have to go past 
Montreal.  I've done trips on the Hudson and Canals a few times (by 
powerboat), it's beautiful but kind of slow with the locks and of course 
on a sailboat the 15' overhead limit requires unstepping the mast before 
Albany.


So while I'd be interested in a Kingston rendezvous, I think car is my 
preferred travel mode (not having the fly option)


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




On 1/11/2021 9:00 AM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:


Given how far north it is can I put in a plug for mid-late summer of 
2022 or 2023? I doubt I have the time to do the round-trip by boat*, 
but we’ll definitely fly or drive.


* I think given the lack of a straight line and low bridges, it is 
something like 1200 miles from here by water going past Montreal??


Joe

Coquina



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Stus-List George Hazen

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

George Hazen was a naval architect who worked at C, but was also well 
known for his naval architecture software.  In the video at the end he 
discusses his C experience, quite interesting.


https://www.sailingscuttlebutt.com/2021/01/08/eight-bells-george-hazen/

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

Thanks to all of the subscribers that contributed to the list to help with the 
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Re: Stus-List Thru hull replacement

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Matt,

I found one of the original backup (I think it was original, a piece of 
plywood inside the hull and a mushroom type thru hull) was actually 
loose when I bought the boat, so I replaced them all but the two drains 
from the aft cockpit.  Those have been on my list for years, someday 
I'll take the fuel tank out to get access.


The ones I replaced I used a ring of about 6" diameter of  1/2" thick 
fiberglass with a hole for the thru-hull epoxied to the inside of the 
hull, then put bronze flat head screws from the outside thru the 
fiberglass ring to hold the flange of the new thru-hull.  Maybe it was 
overkill but I don't worry about them now.


I pretty much followed this:

https://pbase.com/mainecruising/replacing_thruhulls

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 5/25/2020 4:19 PM, Matt Wolford via CnC-List wrote:


Thru-hulls or cockpit drains?

*From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Glen 
Eddie via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, May 25, 2020 3:36 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Glen Eddie 
*Subject:* Stus-List Thru hull replacement

I just looked and see that the thru hulls in the stern of the cockpit 
of my C 35 Mk I need to be replaced/rebedded.  I plan on using 4200, 
but my question is how difficult a job is this one.  Thanks.


*Glen Eddie*

Tel:  416-777-5357

Fax:  1-888-812-2557

*Torkin Manes LLP*
Barristers & Solicitors

This email message, and any attachments, is intended only for the 
named recipient(s) above and may contain content that is privileged, 
confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If 
you have received this message in error, please notify the sender and 
delete this email message. Thank you.


*From:* CnC-List > *On Behalf Of *Dennis C. via 
CnC-List

*Sent:* May-25-20 03:31 PM
*To:* CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Diesel Filter

*This is an external email.*



Wade,

If you're referring to the vacuum gauge and fitting Joe linked to, I 
suspect the male thread goes into the bottom of the gauge.


If you're referring to the Racor T-Handle set up, here's a link to 
Touche's Racor 500 with an older style Racor vacuum gauge.


  --

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

On Sun, May 24, 2020 at 10:03 PM Wade Glew via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Joe

Looking at the guage you've linked to, its obvious the "T" arms go
in the fuel line between the Racor and engine. Where does the
threaded base of the T go?  What is a normal pressure? What
pressure reading makes you decide to change filters?  Are the
lined just clamped with small hose clamps or what?

Wade

Oh Boy 33-2

On Sun, May 24, 2020, 17:15 Joe Della Barba via CnC-List,
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

A vacuum gauge is one of the best cost/benefit ratio
improvements you can do. You can save a lot of $$$ in unneeded
filter changes and get advanced warning when you do need to
change one.

Be official:


https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=m570.l1313&_nkw=racor+gauge&_sacat=0

Cockpit mount with light:

https://moyermarine.com/product/vacuum-gauge-kit-gaug_07-1_532/

(also can be used for manifold vacuum)

Cheap:


https://www.ebay.com/itm/2-1-2-Vacuum-Gauge-Chrome-Plated-Steel-Case-1-4-NPT-Lower-Mnt-30-inHg-0/183642544745?hash=item2ac1f2da69:g:2gUAAOSwJiBcQOWz


https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIQUID-FILLED-VACUUM-GAUGE-30-0-PSI-2-5-FACE-1-4-NPT-LOWER-MOUNT-WOG/192746480989?hash=item2ce095e55d:g:RiQAAOSwqoxcBW9S

Joe Coquina C 35 MK I

--

Dennis C.

Touche' 35-1 #83

Mandeville, LA

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Thanks everyone 

Re: Stus-List Fuel Transfer Pump

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Edd,

I've been using this, these things are awesome.  There's a bronze ball 
inside the end that goes into the can, shake it a few times and it 
starts to flow, almost faster than you could pour it out.


https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7302501?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google=EAIaIQobChMI2vuN1M256QIVCaCzCh2hJwzoEAQYAiABEgK64PD_BwE

West Marine has them too.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/16/2020 1:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

A friend just sent me an ad for a battery-operated fuel pump for 
transferring fuel from a jerry can to the Enterprise’s fuel tank.


Currently, I’m pouring from the jerry can directly into the tank, but 
there is always some spillage and cleanup.


This looks like a nifty solution, but I wonder if it falls into the 
too-good-to-be-true category.


Anyone here use one of these? Pros? Cons?

All the best,

Edd

———-
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the “Starship Enterprise”
C 37+ | Sail No.: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL
www.StarshipSailing.com
———-
914.774.9767   | Mobile
———-
Sent via iPhone 11 Pro
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize



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Re: Stus-List Keel movement- now bolt torque

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Keel bolt torque on the hard or in the watera classic on Stu's 
List.  I’ll jump in….


Torquing keel bolts in the water is equivalent to tightening the head 
bolts on an engine while it's running, probably not a good idea.  Bolted 
joints are intended to be initially preloaded by tightening the nut and 
bolt before the load is applied.


What has to be considered for keel bolts first is that the design 
condition for the hull/keel joint is when the boat is on her beam ends, 
that’s the maximum load that can be applied, and in this condition the 
purpose of the keel bolts is to keep the hull/keel interface in 
compression.  If the compression goes to zero – let’s say just to 
illustrate, a gap opens between hull and keel – the bolts would now be 
trying to support the keel under bending load, and they’d snap in a 
heartbeat.  ( A quick calculation for my 35-1 keel with 6 one-inch bolts 
shows about 200,000 psi stress in that condition).  So the point of 
torquing the bolts is to create enough pre-compression in the joint, and 
if you torque while under load, i.e., in the water, you are giving up 
some of that margin.  Will it cause the keel to fall off?  No, but we’re 
lessening the safety factor, and it’s all about having some margin.  
Thus the best way to tighten keel bolts is on the hard to get the most 
preload.


Having said that, in Chris’s case which started this discussion, my 
recommendation was to tighten the bolts in the water if his keel’s 
loose, as I said above the last thing you want is to lose compression, 
but to go to a little lower torque than in the specs. Then torque to 
full specs when on the jackstands later.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 4/24/2020 1:23 PM, Russ & Melody via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Chris & Josh,

I am not in agreement that keel bolts can only be tightened while the 
boat is ashore.


While that is a convenient activity during the annual haulout period 
that Eastern boats get, it is not entirely practical for us on the 
West Coast or the lads down south. We might only haul every two or 
three years.


The technical sheet in the link shows the theoretical load on a 1" 
bolt (torque to 350 ft-lbs spec) is ~12,000 lbs. This is more than the 
weight of the keel such that it does not matter whether the keel is 
supported on the ground or hanging in the water, the joint is held 
firmly together by one keelbolt. The rest are not required to do 
anything at this time.

https://www.hobson.com.au/files/technical/utd-gd-torque-tension.pdf

I suggest that the proper procedure for tightening keelboats be 
observed whether the boat is in water or in the yard.


For a 1" keelboat to 350 ft-lbs torque:

start with centre nut and take it to 250 ft-lbs, repeat for other
nuts alternating for and aft sequence 
remove centre nut and lubricate, retorque to 300 ft-lbs, repeat as
for other nuts as above 
retorque centre nut to 350 ft-lbs, repeat as for other nuts as above 

Then you can a have a beer Chris and reflect on how fortunate you are 
to be sailing B.C South Coast. Anything 100 miles to the east of you 
is beyond Hope.

   :) 

Cheers, Russ
East side o'  Vancouver Island


At 08:15 AM 4/24/2020, you wrote:

Chris,

The prevailing wisdom of this list suggests that the keel bolts only 
be torqued while the boat is resting on its keel, generally about 60% 
of it's weight depending on the design.  In this way you are not 
turning the nuts against the weight of the keel or even trying to 
compress the bedding material.  IMO, it is likely that you will find 
more movement in the nuts when you retorque on dry land.


I am not familiar with the design of your particular boat but some 
boats have keel bolts which are entirely inaccessible with the mast 
in place.  Make sure there isn't one (or two) hiding somewhere.


Josh MuckleyÂ
S/V Sea HawkÂ
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Thu, Apr 23, 2020, 20:59 Chris Bennett via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Status update: I ended up torquing the keel bolts. They were not
incredibly loose but all of them needed tightening, two by a turn
or more and the other two by less than a turn. I will know if
this removed the keel movement when the boat is next hauled out,
although I am also thinking of diving on her to see if I can
detect any wiggle that way (I live in BC and the water is pretty
cold but manageable for a few minutes with a wet suit - I hope!).
I believe that a very small looseness in a narrow keel root would
result in a fairly noticeable movement at the tip of a 3 foot
keel - even 1/8 inch of movement over 2 inches width would
translate into a couple of inches at the tip, if I have that
right. So hopefully this was the issue!

I took Drifter for a sail today after rebuilding the mast step
and did not notice any flexing or movement in the floors or hull
(made pencil marks on the floors and adjacent hull skin and

Re: Stus-List A Different CNC inquiry

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Hi Stu,

I've been working with Fusion 360 for for toolpath generation a few 
years, after trying Solidworks and Mastercam, and I find it much more 
intuitive and pretty easy to use.  It's published by Autodesk, who sells 
Autocad, and it's free if you're not using if for commercial work.  Be 
happy to talk offline if you want more detail.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 4/20/2020 9:37 AM, Stu via CnC-List wrote:
This is not about C but CNC (Computer Numerical Control).  I would 
like to touch bases with any of our listers who have and use a desktop 
style CNC machine and find out what design software they are using.
If you don’t know what I am talking about – here is one for you to 
look at:

cnc-router
Stu --


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Re: Stus-List Keel movement in C 24

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Hi Chris,

Your mast compression post issue is a slightly different version of what 
many C of your vintage have experienced.  My 35-1 has basically that 
same construction to support the bottom of the mast: a stack of plywood 
lightly encased in fiberglass that spans the bilge at the turn of the 
bilge.  The plywood rots and the mast, or in your case the compression 
post, sinks.  It's a common repair to cut out the old stuff and replace 
it either with more wood, or in my case, with a combination of 
fiberglass/resin layup and pre-cast fiberglass boards.  Not terribly 
complicated, just a PITA to get there, as you say space is limited.


The keel bolt issue seems a bit different.  To be clear, when you say it 
moves I presume that's four inches at the bottom of the keel?  Have you 
been able to have someone move it while you're inside observing the 
keelbolts?  Do they move at all?  Have you tried tightening the keelbolts?


On my boat, there's a lot of wood between the surface you're seeing at 
the bottom of the bilge and the joint where the keel meets the hull.  I 
can tell you that I had issues where that wood got soft and when I 
tightened the keelbolts it crushed.  That was quite a repair job.


I have to say I'm puzzled by the original construction: your "center 
floor", the one with the grounding bolt, is what I would expect for all 
of them, that the reinforcement would extend down into the bottom and 
pick up the load from the keel bolts.  It doesn't seem to provide too 
much support up where it.  Your idea of "boxes" seems good, to get 
strength down to the bolts.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 4/19/2020 9:43 PM, Chris Bennett via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Rob,

I do have pictures but do not know how best to post them to this forum 
so I will upload them to my google drive. This is the shareable link: 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1qEfA4WHGKMVUk6bKch9X4-hXn76AR46C


The issue I believe from examining the bilge area is that my C 24 
has stiffeners (what would be floors in a wooden boat) that help 
prevent the hull from flexing too much when the keel is put in stress 
(say when beating to windward) and that the bonding of some of these 
stiffeners to the hull may have failed. I see signs of this in three 
of the 'floors'.  The surveyor said that the issue is general hull 
flexing, not any cracking or failure of the lead keel to fibreglass joint.


 I named the pictures that you should (hopefully) be able to download 
from the above link as descriptively as I could. I use the term floors 
to refer to the transverse reinforcing areas. The floors at the 
forward end and aft end of the bilge are solid 'boxes'that have no 
issues. The other 3 floors (floors 2 to 4) from forward to aft are as 
follows (see overview picture and detailed pics):


2) The mast step floor. The plywood appears to have sunken and partly 
delaminated and pulled away from the sides. There is a resin and 
fibreglass strap that runs over the plywood cross piece and outboard 
at least 8 inches.  The glass does not seem very thick on this one. 
See the pictures that show a clear curve that has cracked the base of 
the compression post casting. I shimmed this up last year but did not 
address the real issue.


3) A U shaped center 'floor' that is basically a big strap of resin 
and glass that runs down into the bilge and up the sides. The keel 
bolt goes through this strap. The pictures show a crack on either side 
where the strap attaches to the bilge base. Not sure how far the strap 
runs outboard but at least 8 inches to where the hull liner cabin sole 
is bonded to the hull. I cannot see how this would do much to stop the 
hull from flexing


4) Another plywood crosspiece with resin and glass strap over it. This 
strap appears to no longer be bonded correctly to the hull in the 
pictures.


I am thinking of reinforcing floors 2 and 4 perhaps adding a cross 
piece and tabbing this better underneath as well as encapsulating in 
epoxy. Perhaps a box made from a top crosspiece with two ends that 
resemble more traditional (deeper) floors would be better if you can 
picture what I mean? I would replace the mast step fitting with a 
plate and collar made of aluminum since the original fitting does not 
appear to be available anymore - the compression post is 2 inches in 
outer diameter roughly. I was also thinking about adding deeper floors 
fore and aft of the center U shaped strap but concerned this might 
introduce hard spots?


To do any of this I suspect I will have to remove the teak and holly 
sole and cut out with a multi tool or grinder a portion of the 
fibreglass sole so as to gain access to the outboard ends to allow for 
suitably wide floors as well as making access much easier. The problem 
with this approach is that this liner is bonded to the hull and 
contributes to the overall strength so it would need to be replaced 
carefully so as to restore this strength.


A further constraint is to leave 

Re: Stus-List Lewmar opening hatch screen solutions

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Here's my solution:

https://www.defender.com/product.jsp?id=147043

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 3/29/2020 8:51 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:



On Sun, Mar 29, 2020 at 7:29 PM Charlie Nelson via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Charlie,
My solution works on Touche' but might not be best for you.  When I 
bought Touche' the PO had put stupid Velcro adhesive strips and a 
screen on the headliner.  I removed all the Velcro adhesive and went 
with a screen with snaps.  Here's pics:


https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsWHBELTJrOWNXVWs
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B_sb5TfIENvsRUNnX05wQjBJaFU

With the screen removed, the snaps aren't particularly visibly 
intrusive.  Also, when removed, the screen rolls or folds up fairly 
small for easy storage.  Would fit in a quart zipper bag.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


Before I hack something together to hold them on the ceiling
permanently, but allow them to swing out of the way to close the
hatch, etc. I thought I'd check with the listers if they have any
ideas which may work better.

Thanks in advance,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom





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Re: Stus-List Emergency tiller

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

I am remiss it actually trying mine, but how does behave when 
back-driving the quadrant with the wires/chain/wheel?  Is it difficult 
to turn?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 3/20/2020 1:11 PM, Joe Della Barba via CnC-List wrote:
Fortunately the 35 MK I tiller is actually usable to sail the boat and 
if it were 1 foot longer and had a hinge it would be like the boat was 
designed to be tiller steered. I used to use it to sail from under the 
dodger.


Joe Coquina


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Re: Stus-List Starboard as backing plate

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Bruce:

This stuff has worked great for me all over the boat, especially under 
my primary winches.

https://www.mcmaster.com/8537k26

The trick to using it is to cut it with a jig saw using a diamond grit 
blade for masonry or hard tile.  Regular jig saw blades don't last more 
than 30 sec in it.  And also to protect yourself from the dust.  
Otherwise, it's great.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




On 2/11/2020 4:36 PM, Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List wrote:

Hello all,

I have a nice chunk of Starboard and have need of a backing plate.

Is there a downside to using this as opposed to wood or something else?

Thanks!

Bruce Whitmore
1994 C 37/40+
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
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Re: Stus-List Spreader Bracket

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tom,

Not sure how close your rig is to mine, but on mine the lowers are 
attached to a tab that's integral with the spreader bracket.  The tab, 
angled outwards to match the angle of the lower shrouds, is part of the 
flat plate that's screwed to the side of the mast and on which a tube is 
welded to receive the inboard end of the round spreader.  Is yours 
similar?  Doesn't seem likely that there's any sort of access opening; 
there's a hole through the mast in line with the spreaders which carries 
a compression tube, but that would mean your entire spreader bracket has 
been ripped off, it would seem that would take a very high load.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/8/2020 4:45 PM, Tom Alessi via CnC-List wrote:


Went to check up on my boat the other day and found that my lower port 
spreader bracket had been pulled off the mast, but still attached to 
spreader.  Seems a nearby sailboat owner had not removed the jib and 
it came unfurled during a storm and caught hold of the spreader boot. 
I can only imagine it violently shaking my spreader and rig. With the 
bracket partially off I can see a hole in the mast.


- Is that some kind of access opening behind the bracket? Or is it 
worse than that? I'm buried in the yard and the mast won't be down 
till spring.


-If the bracket or spreader is destroyed, does anyone know of a source 
for replacements?


- Boat owner or Boatyard responsible?

Appreciate any info.

Tom Alessi
Andiamo C 36
646-283-1580



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Re: Stus-List Fitting transmission with different gear ratio

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Olivier,

Let me add a little info regarding the engine/gear/prop question. 
Assuming a 19% higher gear ratio, if you can run the engine at 19% 
higher RPM you will have identical performance of the prop/hull, as the 
prop RPM will be the same.  That means the power demanded by the prop is 
identical, thus the load on the engine will be the same. The principle 
at work is that power = torque x RPM, so if you go up in engine RPM,  
the engine torque will go down  proportionately to give the same power 
output. (There may be a small change in engine efficiency at the 
different speed/torque combination, but no more than a few percent, 
meaning fuel consumption may change a few percent, possibly for the better.)


The only question is can the engine run 19% faster without hitting the 
limit.  The 3HM35F appears to have a limit of 3,200 RPM, so if with your 
old gear you were under 2,624 RPM (=3,200 x 2.14/2.61) at your normal 
cruising speed, you would be able to achieve that with the new gear at 
3,200 or less.  If you run above 2,600 RPM now, you won't be able to 
match the speed you have with the old gear. And running the engine at 
higher RPM may cause it to wear a little faster, but if you're within 
the 3,200 limit, and the torque will be lower, shouldn't be too big an 
issue.


If you approach this with the new gear ratio and want to run the engine 
at the old RPM, you'd have to increase pitch to give the same boat 
speed, as several people have pointed out.  Now your torque will 
increase, possibly exceeding the torque limit at your old RPM. You'd 
want to check with a prop shop, who can give you that kind of info.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




On 1/2/2020 9:32 AM, Olivier Chatot via CnC-List wrote:

Thank you for the comments!

I see that my understanding was basically correct. The shaft RPM will 
be lower than before, and using a larger prop or a prop with greater 
pitch would counter this difference.


I'll update you later if I end up using the transmission with a 
different gear ratio. I won't get a new propeller right away to get a 
chance to test the new transmission with the old prop.


I think there's a chance the gear ratios are close enough that I'll 
get the same speeds at still reasonable engine RPMs. What I'm thinking 
is that lower prop RPM also means that the prop slip will be lower, so 
even though the prop RPM would be 19% lower, the boat speed is likely 
to decrease by less than 19%.


Thank you,

Olivier Chatot
C 38-3




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Re: Stus-List Atomic 4 replacement

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Ian,

I've had my A-4 out and back in twice since I bought the boat.  In my 
experience you're on the right track, some timber under the engine to 
slide it forward under the companionway.  My only addition was a chain 
fall hung from a 4x4 over the companionway to take most of the weight 
and to pull it forward.  I'm not sure of the 29-1's layout, but I'd 
suspect you could do something like that.


Once the engine was into the cabin, I had it lifted in/out by a yard 
crane once, and I did it myself the other time.  When I did it myself I 
used the boom as a crane, with the main halyard to lift the aft end of 
the boom. Actually used my main sheet as the block and tackle to hoist 
the engine, swung the boom over the side and lowered it to the ground.  
It worked ok but reinstalling I used the chainfall, was more secure than 
the sheet.  And I got some sarcastic remark about hoping my insurance 
was paid up from the yard manager when he saw it


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY





On 12/23/2019 10:06 PM, Ian Matthew via CnC-List wrote:

Hi,

After years of abuse and keeping it on life support, my A4 finally 
decided enough is enough.  So now I need to remove it and put a 
replacement back in.  My budget didn't allow for going to a diesel but 
I have a rebuilt A4 coming from a person who rebuilds these as a 
hobby.  He has a very good reputation for the quality of work.


I have been persuaded by two sailing buddies (both of who race Cal 
40's) that this isn't too difficult a job and they will help me do the 
replacement.  I am looking for any tips and gotcha's that this 
venerable group can provide me before I get started.


One major issue I can see is how to lift the engine off the mounts 
when the engine is under the cockpit.  My engine builder who has done 
this a few times (but can't any more due to his age) suggested I slide 
a 6x4 under the engine then use a 2x4 as a pivot and raise the engine 
by having someone stand on the 6X4.  Then once free of the mounts, 
gently slide it back into the saloon and lift it out through the 
companionway.  Has anyone tried this?


I have lots of able-bodied helpers to help me so manpower won't be a 
problem.


I am going to do all this at the dock, so no crane to help with the 
lift.  And while the engine is out, I'll remove the fuel tank and 
clean it out.  I'm sure there's crud at the bottom.


I'll document the experience for the benefit of others and share it 
once it's done.


--
Ian Matthew
"Siento el Viento"  C 29-1
San Francisco Bay


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Re: Stus-List SailTimer Experiences-Tacktick

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Thanks for all the replies.  Edd, my intention with hoisting a display 
up the mast was to replicate the mast rotation transmitter. Guess I'll 
keep messing with it since some seem to have decent performance with it.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove NY

On 12/19/2019 2:59 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Neil,

It’s true — Your mast is a little too tall for the Tacktick system. 
What you need, about half way up the mast is a Mast Rotation 
Transmitter (T221). See: 
https://www.mygreenoutdoors.com/raymarine-wireless-mast-rotation-transmitter/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIsLywjL_C5gIVEfDACh0XzQkJEAQYAiABEgKoXPD_BwE 



This will relay the signal from the top of your mast down to your 
unit. And yeah — It’s pricey.


Great for normal sailing, but no way should you use any wireless 
system for racing. The system is just too slow and readings can get 
glitchy.


Also, you’ll need to put some kind of protection around it so that 
your jib doesn’t whack it off your mast on a windy day while tacking.


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
Venice Yacht Club | Venice Island, FL

Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log <http://enterpriseb.blogspot.com/>





On Dec 19, 2019, at 2:46 PM, Gerald Fennessey via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Neil,

I had a Tacktick system on my  Morgan 30/2 and now on my C 35 mk3  
no issues what so ever.



Gerry Fennessey
Fianna 33



I had one om my 35/3 without issue.




-Original Message-
From: Joel Aronson via CnC-List <mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>

To: cnc-list mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
Cc: Joel Aronson mailto:joel.aron...@gmail.com>>
Sent: Thu, Dec 19, 2019 2:23 pm
Subject: Re: Stus-List SailTimer Experiences-Tacktick

FWIW,
I had one om my 35/3 without issue.

Joel

On Thu, Dec 19, 2019 at 2:18 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Not trying to redirect the thread, but since you raised the topic
of Tacktick, I've been meaning to see what the list's response to
this might be.

I've had Tacktick (Raymarine) wind system for about 5 years, and
I've added inputs from GPS, speed/depth, so have a fair bit
invested in the system.  However, I've never really had
satisfactory performance with the wind sensor, it drops out more
that half the time, and for racing that makes it almost useless. 
This summer I put a new battery and bearings in the sensor, got
marginally better performance, then I tried hoisting one of my
displays up to the spreaders (don't ask) to see if it acts as a
relay to the sensors in the cockpit, and that didn't help much.
Finally got through to someone in the UK (I think) in Raymarine's
tech support, who pretty much told me that a 50' mast is really
too far for the wind sensor.

So my question too: what have others found with regards the the
Tacktick wind and at what mast height are you using them?

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On Dec 19, 2019, at 13:43, John Conklin via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Wowza ! Nice rant :) lol 
Crazy  !! You just can’t make that stuff  up!
On another note how do you like the TackTick considering this
for Christmas request from Mrs Claus as I can use on both  the
C and the Etchells ! :)

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon



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--
Joel

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 Each and every one is greatly appreciated.  If you want to support 
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Re: Stus-List SailTimer Experiences-Tacktick

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Not trying to redirect the thread, but since you raised the topic of 
Tacktick, I've been meaning to see what the list's response to this 
might be.


I've had Tacktick (Raymarine) wind system for about 5 years, and I've 
added inputs from GPS, speed/depth, so have a fair bit invested in the 
system.  However, I've never really had satisfactory performance with 
the wind sensor, it drops out more that half the time, and for racing 
that makes it almost useless.  This summer I put a new battery and 
bearings in the sensor, got marginally better performance, then I tried 
hoisting one of my displays up to the spreaders (don't ask) to see if it 
acts as a relay to the sensors in the cockpit, and that didn't help 
much.  Finally got through to someone in the UK  (I think) in 
Raymarine's tech support, who pretty much told me that a 50' mast is 
really too far for the wind sensor.


So my question too: what have others found with regards the the Tacktick 
wind and at what mast height are you using them?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On Dec 19, 2019, at 13:43, John Conklin via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:



Wowza ! Nice rant :) lol 
Crazy  !! You just can’t make that stuff  up!
On another note how do you like the TackTick considering this for 
Christmas request from Mrs Claus as I can use on both  the C and 
the Etchells ! :)


John Conklin
S/V Halcyon



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Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

A friend of mine was chairman of the Western Long Island Sound PHRF 
committee, and he told me that across the country the PHRF committees 
give certain boats the same base rating, kind of yardstick boats, so to 
speak, so all the committees will be working to the same reference.  The 
C 35 Mk 1 is one of those, possibly the 30 Mk 1 is too.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 12/13/2019 7:33 PM, Fred Hazzard via CnC-List wrote:
I am surprised that all the 30’s are rated the same given the dramatic 
differences in conditions they race in. San Francisco verses San Diego 
for example.


Fred Hazzard
S/V Fury
C 44
Portland Or

On Fri, Dec 13, 2019 at 7:08 AM Gary Nylander via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I’m guessing most of the reviews are for boats with big changes in
performance. PHRF Chesapeake has done some, but not often. Looking
around the country, the 30-1, from hull number 1 (on the
Chesapeake) to hull numbers over 600 seem to have the same 174
handicap (mine is number 593 and is 174 also). There may be
exceptions, but I would doubt that Randy’s boat (assuming it has
not been modified in major ways) would prompt a review. I’m not
sure what one would do to a 30-1 to increase performance unless
you cut a bunch of weight off the keel – and that would decrease
it’s performance in heavy weather. At the Chesapeake rendezvous a
couple months ago, I got to look at Rick’s number 1 and it is very
similar to my 593, only differing is the area of chainplate
attachments and some cabinet doors.

Gary Nylander

*From:* CnC-List mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com>> *On Behalf Of *David
Knecht via CnC-List
*Sent:* Thursday, December 12, 2019 5:40 PM
*To:* CnC discussion list CnC mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* David Knecht mailto:davidakne...@gmail.com>>
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List PHRF Reviews and Adjustments

I am pretty sure that no review of ratings has been done at my
club in at least 10 years.  Dave

S/V Aries

1990 C 34+

New London, CT




On Dec 12, 2019, at 5:36 PM, Randy Stafford via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Well Lee, since you bring up PHRF reviews, let me ask you
listers, how often do your clubs or RSAs conduct rating
reviews and adjustments?

The introduction in “the book”
(https://www.ussailing.org/competition/offshore/phrf/phrf-handicaps/)
says under heading "Considerations when using this listing to
determine a handicap by averaging fleet data” that "After the
initial handicap is chosen and the boat is raced, an empirical
analysis of performance may permit a more refined estimate of
its speed potential.”  And a review of

https://www.ussailing.org/wp-content/uploads/2018/01/USPHRF-Fleets-1.pdf shows
that most clubs derive handicaps from “the book,” then review
and adjust based on local experience.

So, how many of y’all do that?

Cheers,

Randy



On Dec 12, 2019, at 11:20 AM, Lee Youngblood via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dear Sir,

RE:  Randy Stafford  S/V Grenadin   C 30 MK I #79
 LISTED as Hull #7

I have put in a request for an immediate PHRF review of
your boat. With over 70 shipyard refinements, it’s clear
now, why your boat is so fast, and only right that your
rating reflect the changes you failed to document.  I
expect the board will want to question you very carefully
about the additional changes to your boat over and above
the documented 1972 norms.  I have suggested that the
penalty not be limited to just changing a PHRF number, but
the monetary fine should reflect the price of the current
boat you have chosen to race.  Perhaps if you raced a
newer more expensive boat, you would be disinclined to
perpetrate this excessive winning streak, which is
depressing both the local fleet and the attendance of
future sailors to the sport.  You should hear from the
PHRF board by the end of the month.

Regretfully, Lee

Yea, cold and wet in Seattle

On Dec 12, 2019, at 2:31 09AM, Randy Stafford via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Listers-

When I was buying my 30 MK I (HIN 30007972) four years
ago, I came to the conclusion she was hull number 7
laid up in September 1972, I think based on this old
post:

http://cnc-list.com/pipermail/cnc-list_cnc-list.com/2012-April/044412.html.

Meanwhile a discussion arose recently in the Facebook
C Owners Group 

Re: Stus-List Changing seacock values

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

David,

When I bought my 35-1 the raw water thru hull valve was flopping around 
(boat was on the hard).  The original installation had just a small 
piece of plywood between the flange and the inside of the hull which 
came loose.  I epoxied a piece of 1/2" thick McMaster Carr g-glass on 
the inside of the hull with nuts epoxied in recesses on the underside of 
the plate, then put on an integral thru hull/valve.  Something like this:


https://marinehowto.com/seacock-backing-plates/

Wound up doing  it  to all the others except the two way back under the 
steering cockpit, which I'll get to some day.  May be overkill but I 
didn't want more of them coming  loose.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 12/10/2019 3:21 PM, David Morris via CnC-List wrote:


While she’s on the hard, I plan to replace the seacock gate valves 
with ball values on our ‘75 C 30 MK1. Can anyone offer the benefit 
of experience in doing so? Are there tricks to stabilizing the 
through-hull fitting while unscrewing the old valves? Is it best to 
replace the entire through-hull fitting?


With thanks,

David

David J. Morris, MBA
President, D.J. Morris & Associates Ltd.
24 St. Paul’s Place, Kingston, ON  K7M 7S3**

Tel. 613-531-4429
email: djmor...@djma-ltd.com
Member: Professional Writers Association of Canada
Blogging at: http://davidmorrisjourneys.wordpress.com/



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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Great Lakes water levels...for C now Erie Canal

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

http://www.canals.ny.gov/navinfo/index.html

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 11/27/2019 9:28 AM, Bill Coleman via CnC-List wrote:


The controlling depth is “supposed” to be 12’.

Good luck with that, at least in the spring. I made the trip upbound 
for the second time last year.


The advice in April 2018 was that the minimum was 8’, but in several 
places where Tributaries enter the canal, debris had filled in 
reducing it to only 6 feet. There were other problems, such as a lock 
master who was reporting “normal pool” between Lock 19 and 20, because 
. . .the level was BELOW all the numbers at the bottom of the lock. We 
could see the stains a foot and a half higher which showed where it 
should be. A call to the Authority, and his supervisor came and 
apologized,  and said he could raise the level 12 – 14 inches 
overnite, which we were dubious of, but next morning they had raised 
the level 14” over a 10 mile stretch. They control a LOT of water.  He 
said they had new dredging equipment coming that summer, and there 
would be plenty of water after that.


Eventually we had to stop at Rome for 3 weeks until they had dredged 
Woods Creek, Sylvan Beach, and another creek. We still dragged the 
bottom at several other places along the way, including both sides of 
the Genesee River. Hard to complain about a gem like this, especially 
when it was free, no charge ($200) for the centennial year of 2018.


It is a wonderful trip, and I would recommend doing it at least once. 
Most places offer free docking overnite, many with free electric.


I know our own Brig Niagara has gone through the canal at least twice, 
and that is 126 feet with a 10.5 foot draft.


Bill Coleman

Erie PA

Do I have to google the controlling depth of the Erie canal?  Step up, 
New Yorkers.  What's up there?


Chuck, Resolute 1989 C 34R, Pasadena, Md




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Re: Stus-List Fwd: Great Lakes water levels...for C now Erie Canal

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I've done several trips on the NY State canals, they really are a 
working museum, well worth the investment in time/money.  You can rent 
40' canal boats in Albany, travel in style for a weekend or week-long 
trip.  The Champlain Canal is really nice, through the Adirondacks to 
Lake Champlain.  NY State put a lot of $$ into developing waterfronts in 
the canal towns in the early 2000's, makes for good cruising.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/26/2019 8:01 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


I have thought of taking the Whaler up there and putting it in for a 
week vacation. We could go from town to town and stay at B Also I 
think there is a canal around Toronto maybe that is good for that kind 
of thing. I’ll need some seat cushions though, I did 60 miles in the 
Whaler and ended up a bit sore from sitting on a board.


Joe

Coquina

1973 C 35 MK I

Night Heron

1970 Boston Whaler 13 Sport




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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Shawn,

This arrangement allows the use of a starting type battery, which can 
deliver high current loads for short time but is not intended be drained 
significantly, on the starting bank,  and deep-cycle type which are 
intended to drain down to much lower level over a longer time, on the 
house bank.  It would depend your use and on how often you recharge 
whether this is important or not, to be sure.  And there are now dual 
purpose batteries, so it may be less of an issue if you use them.


One other reason for this system is that it prevents the starting 
voltage dip from shutting off your electronics on the house circuit,  
one of the main reasons I chose this.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/18/2019 7:52 PM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I can see why this is superior in isolating a battery/bank, but how 
often is that necessary? Is this just to prevent the good batteries 
from being drained by the bad one(s)? So if I had multiple house (or 
start) batteries, I could just additional on/off switches linked to a 
house or start bus, and a switch between the buses? Something to 
consider depending on how far I get carried away with my electrical. 
Currently I have 2 banks, with room for a 3rd, and just leave them 
combined all the time, as they are all 6V GC batteries. If I'm 
concerned, I could isolate one bank in case the sun stays away for too 
long (and we're not motoring at all), but so far that hasn't happened. 
And so far, the only significant load we have is the fridge, with 
minimal electronics. Once we add radar, that will change...

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 
S/V Callisto, 1974 C 35
https://www.facebook.com/SVCallisto


On Mon, Nov 18, 2019 at 1:56 PM Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I suggest changing to the linked setup.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1T4WnvplsWG_o9r6drc-FnhbTo0TJ4E_-/view?usp=drivesdk

Take this opportunity to do away with the 1-ALL-2 switch.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 1:13 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Yesterday, my Blue Sea DC switch failed in a bad way —
essentially the plastic broke and the guts of the switch come
apart causing a flaky connection. Seems this is a common
problem base on this forum:


https://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/853223-blue-sea-battery-switch-failure.html

I emailed Blue Sea and await their response.

Four years ago I replaced the original old Perko switch when I
did a battery upgrade/rewire/shunt+monitor.  Now I’m worried
about simply replacing with the same one if it’s prone to
failure.

Luckily this happened at the dock but it could have been
really bad if I’d needed power in a hurry.

I’m now thinking I’ll wire up a “backup” bypass directly to
the starter in case this happens again or for jump starting, etc.

Any thoughts on this from the collective wisdoms of this list?

Thanks,
  Jeremy
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Re: Stus-List Blue Seas Battery Switch Failure

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I just dealt with this issue this summer, and wound up using this approach:

https://www.bluesea.com/products/7650/Add-A-Battery_Kit_-_120A

The switch actually has three positions, Off, On and Combine.  In On, 
the house and starting circuits are isolated,  in Combine they are 
connected.  It appears to accomplish almost the same as the 3 on/off 
switches, but it would not let you turn one battery "off" and power both 
circuits with a single battery. You'd have to disconnect the battery 
lead.  On the other hand, less wiring and fewer switches.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/18/2019 6:11 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
3 switches actually allow more flexibility if you need to start the 
engine with the house battery or power the house with the start 
battery.  They are also cheaper...and when/if one breaks you don't 
have an entire system failure to deal with.


FWIW, That switch setup is referenced in a book by Don Casey.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD



On Mon, Nov 18, 2019, 4:50 PM Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Thanks all for the responses.

Yeah ,I should really call but less chance of me getting angrier
with an email.  Redoing this stuff is a major PITA as you all know
and I’ve lost some trust in all the Blue Sea stuff I spent a
bundle on

RE: do away with the 1-2-all switch in place of 3 switches.  I do
have an ACR (that came with the blue sea switch).  The switch can
then do  ON, force combine, off.  What’s the benefit of having 3
switches?  Different combinations of house, start, combine on/off?


Thanks,
  Jeremy




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Re: Stus-List Universal Diesel harness upgrade

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Chuck,

My 35-1 with an  A4 is wired that way, though without the connectors.  
Appears to have been that way for 40+ years.  At least Universal is 
consistent. Not sure I see a particular problem with it (without the 
connectors), as long as the wire size to/from the ammeter is adequate 
for the amperage, which should be the maximum charging amps. Of course 
if the starter and glow plugs' current went through the ammeter that'd 
be different, but on a Universal M30-B that I put in my club's launch 
that was not the case.


I rewired the system to use an ACR this summer, which separated the 
house and battery loads, so while previously it showed both charging and 
discharging amps, now it only shows charging amps.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/5/2019 5:03 PM, Chuck Saur via CnC-List wrote:

Hello from already snowy Michigan.
Seems the 1990 M-35 I have for power in my boat is, well, not really 
designed well in the wiring department. I have read stuff describing 
it as "dangerous" to "fatal" and worse.  There appear to be two 
related issues:  First, that the harness is not capable of the loads 
to and from the alternator, ammeter and starter, (plus glow plugs) and 
two, that the light blue 'trailer harness' connectors fail and burn.  
I've read several posts at different websites, and a great fix 
explained here:

https://marinehowto.com/universal-diesel-engine-wiring-harness-upgrade/
I wonder who on our expert list has tackled this problem.  I am 
considering fixing what I have, or purchasing a new gauge panel and 
all wiring. You can do that from Catalina Direct and others.

Any experience or opinions from fellow Universal owners?

*
*
*
*

*Chuck Saur*

*Daydream C 37+ *

*

*



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Re: Stus-List Sad day, APS no longer carrying rope or hardware!

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Some of us (ahem...) more senior lister's may remember when Lands' End 
was a boating supply mail order catalog.  They made the switch in the 
late '70's to clothing, lot more$$ to be made, it appears.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 9/17/2019 3:02 PM, jim aridas via CnC-List wrote:
Seemed like a weird business decision? But maybe much better markup in 
clothing and accessories.
Plus can hire less knowledgeable staff. Still sad to see the great 
resource go.

Previous -Galaxy 1982 34 c/B
Current J80
Jim Aridas Brielle NJ

Get Outlook for Android 





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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Josh,

Stress corrosion cracking is caused by chlorides (salt) and high tensile 
stress, and while it is always a possibility with 304 and 316 SS, 
keeping stress levels low enough with normal safety margins should 
minimize it.  Not that common in most marine fittings, even in salt water.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 8/14/2019 10:27 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
Neil, you mentioned fatigue cracking in aluminum.  What about stress 
corrosion cracking in SS?


Dan, my thought is that the plates are safe for use of the boat.  I 
believe it is more likely that the standing rigging will fail before 
the chainplates do.  I don't know about you but I have plenty of other 
boat projects that are more worthy of my money.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Wed, Aug 14, 2019, 10:15 AM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Dan,

Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as
aluminum,
it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some
numbers:
utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum
6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less
prone to
cracking under fatigue loading.

IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not
elongated,
just a little rough.  It'd be nice to see the top of the holes
where the
load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no
significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface
coating that has worn off.  If you're really concerned you can
have them
dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place.

Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
> Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and
unstepping
> masts so it's 100% my discretion.
>
> I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting
him to
> check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except
> instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below
deck
> portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that
> stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the
> equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer,
but
> I'd sail with that setup.
>
> If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I
> can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.
>


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Re: Stus-List Replacing Chainplates

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dan,

Grade 316 stainless is about two to three times as strong as aluminum, 
it varies a lot depending on what grade Al you're using. (Some numbers:  
utlimate tensile strength of 316 SS is about 84,000 psi, aluminum 
6061-T6, a common marine alloy, is 42,000 psi) SS is also less prone to 
cracking under fatigue loading.


IMHO those chainplates aren't all that bad, the holes are not elongated, 
just a little rough.  It'd be nice to see the top of the holes where the 
load is transferred, but what's visible is decent. There's no 
significant wastage in thickness, appears to be mostly the surface 
coating that has worn off.  If you're really concerned you can have them 
dye penetrant tested for cracks, could be done in place.


Of course free advice is worth what you pay for it

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 8/14/2019 9:42 AM, Dan via CnC-List wrote:
Fortunately our yard doesn't get involved with stepping and unstepping 
masts so it's 100% my discretion.


I know a guy who does stainless. I was thinking about getting him to 
check out the plates and quote me on new ones made to spec, except 
instead of 1/2" thickness throughout, I would ask for the below deck 
portion to be 1/4" or 3/8" thickness. I'm under the impression that 
stainless is much stronger and can be thinner to achieve the 
equivalent strength to the aluminum plates. I'm not an engineer, but 
I'd sail with that setup.


If these aluminum plates are fine as is for another 5 years or so I 
can put this job off. I've seen much worse corrosion.





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Re: Stus-List Hitachi 55A alternator question - 12.63 v output...

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dave,

Interesting question for me, as just a few days ago I installed an ACR 
and have been watching the voltage on the house bank, (alternator output 
is to the starting bank only) by which I can see when the ACR combines.  
It seems to be at about 13 to 13.2 volts, so it does sound like your 
alternator/regulator is not putting out high enough voltage.   On my ACR 
(Blue Sea 7610) you can put in an LED that lights up when it combines, 
just to be sure.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 8/9/2019 4:40 PM, Dave S via CnC-List wrote:


Hi All,

I have a yanmar 2GMf20 with what I believe is the stock 55 amp 
alternator.   I noticed that my ACR was not combining batteries, which 
led me to research a bit then measure the voltages on each bank, and 
then at the alternator “Batt” terminal.


Irrespective or RPM or battery state, the voltage at the BATT terminal 
does not exceed 12.63 in operation.   (he ACR therefore doesn’t “see” 
a charging state)  The belt is new and not slipping.


This suggests and alternator or regulator problem.   Does this make 
sense?  Is there anything else I should check?


If I end up replacing the regulator, are there better options for this 
alternator than stock?


Thanks All.

Dave

Sent from Mail  for 
Windows 10




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Re: Stus-List plugged engine water intake

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dave,

I had the exact scenario you describe happen to me, but even when diving 
I couldn't see anything in the intake.  I wound up taking the hose off 
the through hull fitting, opening the ball valve and when no water came 
in, pushing a screw driver down to clear the weeds.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 8/9/2019 7:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
Last week on a cruise, we ran the motor while at anchor to warm the 
water tank for showers.  When we started the engine the next morning, 
I noticed the sound of water from the exhaust seemed off and sure 
enough, a few minutes later the engine began to overheat.  We 
re-anchored and I went below to check the strainer basket which had a 
bit of grass in it, but not enough to plug it up.  My wife (bless her 
heart) dove in and saw a big clump of seaweek attached to the hull 
where the intake should be.  She managed to clear it and we got under 
way with no more trouble.  One lesson is to be careful of running the 
engine when the boat is at rest as I am sure you are much more likely 
to suck stuff into the intake as opposed to when the boat is moving at 
6 knots (that has never happened to me).  But the experience got me 
thinking about how to resolve the problem of a plugged intake without 
swimming.  Is it possible to take the basket out of the water intake 
strainer and run something flexible and stiff down the tube and clear 
the intake without diving?  I am thinking of stiff wire or something 
like the fiberglass snake I use for running wires through small 
spaces. Anyone done this successfully?   Dave


S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List C Mark II Deck Creaking

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

You have me interested, as I don't think my 35-1 has any type of 
brackets, and the bulkhead does squeak in any significant seaway. I'd be 
quite interested in pictures.  (I was told by a former 35-1 owner the 
solution was beeswax on the bulkhead.)


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 7/22/2019 4:42 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
OK, I'm taking a flyer here because I'm not familiar with the 33-2.  
Does it have an "oopstang"?  That's the name a long missing lister 
(Wally) gave to a bracket assembly which holds the bulkhead to the 
deck.  Look for a beveled metal piece on the deck which measures about 
1" x 2" with a slotted flat head fastener.  The fastener holds an 
L-shaped bracket which resembles a chain plate which is attached to 
the bulkhead.


If your boat has one, try tightening the fasteners for this assembly.

On my 35-1, the top of the bulkhead is held by this assembly.  To the 
best of my knowledge, the top of the bulkhead floats except for this 
bracket.  So it may be creaking just with a small movement.


Advise us what you find.  I plan to be on Touche' later this week, 
I'll look more closely at it and try to grab some pictures.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Jul 22, 2019 at 2:52 PM Andrew Walther via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi there,

Does anybody have any suggestions / comments on a rather
significant creaking near starboard bulkhead on C Mark II? 
The boat is overall in very good shape but I did notice creaking
when walking on the deck slightly forward of the bulkhead whilst
at dock.  We were out in heavy seas (25 knots) on our last trip
reaching through waves and the creaking was quite noticeable down
below.  There are no soft spots and from visual and audible
inspections I don’t see any signs of delamination. Also no signs
of water ingress.

I’m thinking that the joint between the bulkhead and deck may have
come loose and was wondering if anybody has experienced the same,
and would be curious to hear any suggestions on how to remedy the
issue.

Thanks!

Andy

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Re: Stus-List Downsides to having a boat on the hard?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

When I bought my 35-1 it had been sitting in a yard for 3 years, and 
pretty much neglected by the owner.  The biggest issue was water inside 
the boat, presumably after the battery died the bilge pump stopped 
draining whatever came in, and the boat had an inside waterline a foot 
above the cabin sole.  Fortunately it was about an inch below the 
crankshaft opening of the A4 engine, otherwise it would have filled the 
sump and seized the engine.


So my sense is that either be sure you have no water entry, or have some 
way of draining it.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 7/13/2019 8:19 PM, Barbara L. Hickson via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Listers,
  Are there any advantages to having a boat on the hard for 3-5 yrs? 
 Any disadvantages besides obvious non use of her?  TIA.

BLHickson
Flight Risk 33-1
Chas., SC





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Re: Stus-List Block Island's Great Salt Pond - Town Mooring or Dock Reservation?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tom,

I've spent a few nights at Block Island for the last several years on my 
cruises.  The situation with the town moorings is first come/first 
serve, no reserving.  It reminds me of trying to find a parking spot in 
NYC, at 7 - 8 am you cruise around the mooring field looking for someone 
taking sail covers off or running an engine and wait behind him so you 
can grab the mooring the second he leaves. By 10 am  or so they're all 
taken.


But, the real secret is that at 3 PM each day, the harbormaster can put 
transients on private moorings that are unused for that evening.  You 
call him on VHF and he meets you by Can 13 and directs you to a 
mooring.  I've always been able to get one if I arrive later in the 
day.  That gives you at least one night so early the next morning you 
can do the town mooring derby described above.


The anchorage is another option, of course, but as I found out your nice 
spot with plenty of clearance will inevitably be crowded by late 
arrivals.  Kind of zoo, but there's quite a lot of room at the far edge, 
long way to shore.


When are you going out?  I'm leaving this weekend on more or less the 
same route, be good to meet up.  Contact me offline.


Neil  Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 6/26/2019 1:22 PM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote:

Hi Listers,

My crew is demanding that I give them a break from racing so we are 
planning for our first cruise, heading up Long Island Sound to Newport 
and Block Island, next month. I've arranged dock space at the navy 
base in Newport, but I'm still working out the details for the stop at 
Block Island.


We'd be arriving on a Sunday afternoon and staying overnight. Does 
anyone know what the town mooring situation in the Great Salt Pond is 
like? Would it be better to forget about the moorings and make a 
reservation now at one of the marinas instead?


My worry is that all the town moorings will be occupied, the docks'll 
be full, and we'll have to set an anchor for the night. My anchor 
tackle is geared towards racing rather than cruising (150 ft of nylon 
rode with a short section of rubberized chain and a Fortress) so I'd 
like to avoid that.


Thanks for any advice or thoughts you may have!

Best,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
'73 C 35-1
City Island, NY



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Re: Stus-List Oil pressure alarm on Westerbeke 20B2

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Nathan,

If your Admiral panel is like the one on an M3-20B, and I'd bet it is, 
the oil pressure switch also provides electrical power to the fuel lift 
pump, once the engine starts running.  If your oil switch is not closed, 
the fuel pumps stops.  It may run for a few minutes on what's in the 
fuel filter, but before long you'd know it.  I'm guessing from the fact 
that you ran after the alarm went off that it might not be the oil switch.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 6/6/2019 10:24 PM, Nathan Post via CnC-List wrote:

Hello,

On the way back to the marina this evening the oil pressure alarm went off 
after having motored about 10 minutes (and previously an hour earlier motored 
20 minutes or so out).  I have a Westerbeke 20B2 diesel in my boat.  We have 
the admiral style control panel so that has both the temperature and oil 
pressure gauges as well as the alar buzzer.  Everything looked normal on the 
gauges with the oil pressure reading about 40 psi at 2500-2700 rpm (manual says 
35 - 60 is normal so maybe slightly on the low side but still in range).  The 
same buzzer is connected to the over temperature alarm as well but temperature 
also seemed fine and cooling water was flowing.  I shut down the engine and 
checked the oil level - which was just fine, right where it had been earlier in 
the day at the full mark.  Given that we were in the middle of the channel and 
everything seemed to check out I ended up deciding to start her again and 
motored the remaining 10 minutes or so back to the marina (with the buzz
er going the whole time).  The oil pressure stayed at 40 psi until I slowed her 
to an idle at which point it dropped to 25-30 psi.  I think that is pretty 
typical.  According the the manual the buzzer should sound at below 10 psi as 
it does when you first start the engine.

My question is:  Do I assume that the sending switch for the oil pressure alarm 
is faulty and order a replacement?  Is there anything else I should check or 
verify to ensure that the oil pump is in fact working correctly and the oil is 
getting distributed through the engine?  Is there another part I should look 
into that could be causing this behavior?

Thanks!
Nathan Post
S/V Wisper
1981 C
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Re: Stus-List 35-1 Upper rudder bearing modification

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

I'm quite interested as I'm getting a bit of slop on the rudder stock as 
well.


One thought:  I like your last suggestion of a plastic bearing instead 
of bronze.  Bronze, while softer than stainless for sure, could 
potentially cause some wear on the stock, and it might be better to 
replace a plastic bearing or bushing every so often rather than risk the 
stock.  If we really want to get fancy, maybe a short length of a 
cutless-type bearing with 1-1/2" ID?


I'll be interested to hear what you end up with.  Thanks for sharing this.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 5/8/2019 2:11 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
OK, I just replaced Touche's upper rudder bearing for the third time 
in 20 years.  It gets a little sloppy with use.  It's a simple Delrin 
disc.  I had a few made by a plastics machine shop years ago so it's a 
simple task to replace it.


I've been thinking about beefing up this bearing for years.  So, if 
interested, please read this document and tell me if I'm nuts or if 
you have any better ideas.


https://drive.google.com/open?id=1MJ48XXi3m1p7spOZOgZiCR_5Z17p8pb2

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA


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Re: Stus-List C 35-1 mast step

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Jeff,

Many 35-1 owners have had to do the mast step job, and each will 
probably have a different approach. Mine was as follows:
There's a stack of plywood layers under the aluminum casting that span 
the bilge sump with a thin layer of glass over it all.   My approach was 
to cut out the plywood and replace it with fiberglass. The problem is 
that the upper layers are too wide to fit through the opening in the 
cabin sole in one piece.  I used a sheet of McMaster Carr fiberglass 
board at the bottom, which was small enough to fit in, then I put down 
about 20 -25 layers of glass cloth in resin, which allows you to fit the 
resin/cloth layers through the opening. (This is doable if you wait in 
between layers long enough for them to set up to the point where you can 
still make a dent in the glass with your thumbnail, but keeps it from 
overheating.)  I figured that was plenty strong, so then I built the 
level back up with smaller pieces of the fiberglass board that would fit 
through and epoxied them in place.


As I say I'm sure there's many was to do this.  It's a simple job in 
concept, just a PITA to work down in the sump under the sole.  My boat 
also had issues with the wood under the forward-most keelbolt, I had to 
put some fiberglass board in there as well.


Feel free to contact me for more info if you go this route.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 5/4/2019 6:14 PM, Jeff Helsdingen via CnC-List wrote:
Looking for advise/photos/instruction on doing a mast step 
replacement. Have searched and looked at some previous posts just 
seeing if there's any more ideas out there. Also have a small leak 
around our rudder post, any ideas as to what can be done to remedy that?


Thanks,
Jeff Helsdingen
Caposhi
1972 C 35-1 #54


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Re: Stus-List Prop shaft support on 35-2

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Shawn,

My 35-1 has about 4 inches of shaft between the strut and the front edge 
of the prop.  Maybe the 35-2 has a different placement of the strut and 
prop than the 35-1, but I would agree whats on that boat seems  a bit 
longer than desirable.   Can't quite tell from the photo but it appears 
that if the prop were much more forward from where it is the blade tips 
are going to get pretty close to the hull, also not great from a 
vibration standpoint.  Possibly the strut's been moved forward?


On the other hand, the previous owner used it as it is, so  good chance 
its acceptable.  Are you doing a sea trial before purchase?


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 4/12/2019 12:03 AM, Shawn Wright via CnC-List wrote:
I just noticed what appears to be a fairly long extension of the prop 
shaft beyond the support on the 35-2 pictured here:


http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=168876=1524980874

It looks like there is at least 12" of shaft beyond the support before 
the prop, and bit less between the hull and the support. I recall 
reading a survey on a boat I was considering where the surveyor 
commented on excessive prop shaft extension as a possible cause of 
vibration. As this boat has a VW diesel (not sure of the 
transmission), I am wondered if the shaft might be too long.


How does this compare with other 35s?

--
Shawn Wright
shawngwri...@gmail.com 


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Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Agreed on the topping lift, I use a spinnaker halyard since the end of 
the whisker pole is farther outboard than the spinnaker pole, slightly 
less inward pull on the pole but probably doesn't make too much 
difference.  The topping lift allows better control of the sail, IMHO, 
especially in light air, you can take the weight off the sail and 
control its shape.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 4/2/2019 9:48 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
I have both a spin pole and a whisker pole.  We use the whisker for 
main and jib races, and it is superior for the reasons you stated.  We 
use a topping lift.  We have also used a down haul in heavy stuff 
(after the chute comes down due to too much breeze/wave action).  As 
issue we have encountered is getting the sheet out from the pole end 
in the heavy stuff.

*From:* David Knecht via CnC-List 
*Sent:* Tuesday, April 02, 2019 9:33 AM
*To:* CnC CnC discussion list 
*Cc:* David Knecht 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height
I have to disagree with the recommendation to just use the spinnaker 
pole.  I bought a whisker pole because it weighs much less than the 
spinnaker pole and I can store it vertically attached at the mast 
end.  I don’t think I could maneuver the spinnaker pole in place by 
myself on the unstable deck of a boat downwind.  I don’t trust my 
balance plus it is really heavy and unwieldy even on firm ground. The 
whisker pole also allows me to set different lengths depending on 
conditions.
Related to that: I read the Forespar recommendations on whisker pole 
use the other day.  They strongly recommended using a topping lift.  I 
have not done that although I have one.  It seems like it might affect 
sail shape as the weight of the pole pulling down on the clew might 
alter the shape of the leech of the sail.  I will play when I can sail 
again, but wonder if anyone has thoughts.  Dave

S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT



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Re: Stus-List Help

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Not sure where you're located, but here's a 36.

https://longisland.craigslist.org/boa/d/stamford-cc-36-boat-for-sale-1978/6849185510.html

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




On 4/1/2019 10:33 AM, Bruce Roland via CnC-List wrote:


I am interested in finding out just a ball park figure on a complete 
restore, my 36 ft C was damaged by Hurricane Michael,  and washed to 
shore. It sat on government property for about 3 and half months full 
of water.
I know it might be difficult to give a figure on this but could you 
just give me something to work with please.
Or a replacement figure.  The actual boat has been destroyed, but I do 
have pictures. I just trying to get a replacement cost.

This was my home and now I'm left with nothing.
Thank you for your time.
Bruce Roland


Bruce Roland


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Re: Stus-List Downwind sailing- Whisker pole length and height

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Not sure about other areas, but in my area (Western LIS) PHRF limits the 
whisker pole length to LP without time adjustment.  If you use a 
J-length spinnaker pole as a whisker pole in non-spinnaker events, then 
you get a 3 sec credit.  And you do need a band on the whisker pole if 
it's extendable.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, Y




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Re: Stus-List Gybe preventer

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

To add to the previous replies, I have a mid-boom preventer (think it 
came with the boat, it's old) that has two "clamp" devices that each fit 
around one side of the boom and have a lip that reaches down into the 
bolt rope slot on top of the boom.  They both are shackled to a 4:1 
tackle that at the bottom which has a snap shackle to the toe rail.  
Here on Long Island Sound I mostly use it to pull against the mainsheet 
and thus lock the boom in place as I bounce in the motorboat slop


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 3/16/2019 11:44 AM, David Knecht via CnC-List wrote:
I have been thinking aobut rigging a preventer on my boat so re-read 
this old discussion of how people rig them. End boom attachment sounds 
preferable, but does that have to run outside the shrouds?  If so, 
then you would have to rig it before letting the main out while you 
can stlill get to the end of the boom.  Then, how do you gybe when you 
want to?


  I have a single reef point on my new main, so I have an extra 
internal boom line and sheave  from the second reef setup that exits 
at the rear of the boom.  I am thinking that if i put a long enough 
line with a snap shackle at the end where it exits the boom, I could 
use that as a preventer.  Before letting the main out downwind, you 
would grab the shackle and run it forward to the toe rail near the bow 
and clip it in and then have control from the stopper on the cabin 
top.   Thoughts?  Dave
PS- No expectation of offshore/big waves racing in my future so this 
is a cruising/club racing solution




S/V Aries
1990 C 34+
New London, CT




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Re: Stus-List 35-1 rudder quadrant question

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Just a thought here, when I looked at my system, which is what you have 
in the top link of your email, if I were adding a stop I'd consider 
hanging something off the underside of the aft cockpit sole rather than 
building up the whole partial bulkhead as was done in the factory.  
Looking at the middle picture of the following, if my quadrant were 
inverted and the stop plates on top, they'd be fairly close to the 
underside of the cockpit sole. Maybe two aluminum angles on a beam 
spanning the gap under the binnacle.


My $.02, which may be all it's worth.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4yE5o2R9T5ZxEDCy7


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 3/13/2019 12:46 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
I'm beginning to build the rudder stop bulkhead system installed in 
later 35-1's.  See this pic of the later boat rudder stop.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr/view?usp=drivesdk

Now see this pic of Touche's quadrant.  Note that Touche's quadrant is 
upside down from the other pic.  If I bolt the rudder stop plate to 
the top of my quadrant, it will have a clearance issue with the 
underside of the steering station sole.


https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B_sb5TfIENvsZkFXY3VtWmFES0ZER2VhbXdFU3k3NU1IcVRj/view?usp=drivesdk

The seemingly obvious answer is to flip the quadrant.  Couple of 
questions before I do something stupid.


First, from previous posts, I'm assuming the collar under the quadrant 
holds the rudder in the boat.


Second, I suspect the quadrant has a key and keyway.  So flipping the 
quadrant upside down should just align it back with the key and keyway.


The Allen bolts holding the quadrant loosened easily.  I thinking the 
quadrant should simply split apart easily with a tap or two.  Agree?


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA




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Re: Stus-List Prepping for 35-1 Keel Bolts/Smile Fix

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tom,

I can get a torque wrench and I have the sockets, if you'd like to 
borrow them.  Contact me off list.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 2/6/2019 9:18 AM, Thomas Delaney via CnC-List wrote:

Hi  listers,

First of- thanks for all of your suggestions for rebuilding my navtec 
backstay adjuster. It was serviced by a shop in Oyster Bay, NY and the 
local rigger (Jeff Lazar, whom I can't recommend enough) handled the 
removal and reinstall. So, onto the next project!


I've been buying tools as I need them for projects, and this spring 
I'm going to make sure my keep is securely attached to the boat.


Obviously I'll need a torque wrench, a socket, and an extension for 
the forward bolt at the mast. Does anyone know offhand what size bolt 
is in the 35-1? Otherwise I'll add calipers to the list of tools.


The nuts and bolts are rust free, and the PO replaced the iron washers 
with stainless backing plates. I can see they were bedded with a some 
caulking. I am going to remove the nuts, one by one, clean and rebed 
the backing plates with 4200, and bring the bolts to somewhere below 
the final torque setting for a few days before the finishing the 
torquing to 100%.


Once that is done and it warms up, I am going to address the leading 
edge of the keel with gflex, fair it, and paint the bottom.


Am I missing anything obvious in the bolt torquing procedure?

Thanks,
Tom

---
Snow Goose
35-1
City Island, NY


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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system rebuild - update 1

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

My hull number, in the photos, is #202, July '73.

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/29/2019 1:40 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Yep.  I wonder what hull number they made the design change?  touche' 
is #83.


Dennis C.

On Tue, Jan 29, 2019 at 10:54 AM schiller via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Dennis,

Looks very similar to what was on Corsair, Hull #7.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1sTBZGtbZlym6_0Iw0S5DZOiWYHahCVI7

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028. "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 1/29/2019 9:20 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

The original post is below.

My buddy has the pedestal and associated parts for stripping and
painting with AwlGrip. Aircraft stripper does indeed remove
powder coat.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1OgW3dWk9fqRkoQwowu_fwg5fGehKcd_g

A local rigging shop is duplicating the wire rope cable for me. 
The fitting on the end of the cable that attaches to the chain is
apparently called a chain eye as opposed to a marine eye or
aircraft eye.

There seems to be a major change in the rudder stop design. 
Touche' is Hull 83.

Thanks to Russ, I have a good example of what a rudder stop
should look like.  Note the strong vertical structural member
with gussets.  The two plates mounted to the bottom of the
quadrant stop against aluminum plates with rubber cushions on
either side of the vertical structural member.

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_9BPN1H7YXs586x93QLT8saZVIKJxDSr

Unfortunately, Touche' only has a thin gusset for the rudder tube:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jaJX92DAx9vOgV2TWk-fchKrc3k3Zj2h

One other difference is that Touche's quadrant is installed
upside down from the one on Russ' boat.  Go figure.  That doesn't
seem to be a big deal.  The plates will just have to be mounted
on the top of the quadrant.

I am going to have to install a vertical structural member. 
Still finalizing the design but it will be similar to Russ'
boat.  Going to be very uncomfortable working in there.

I'm thinking about bonding 3 pieces of marine ply together with
the middle piece shorter so the thing slips down over the
existing rudder post gusset.  I can then through bolt it in place
and then tab it to the hull.  I will probably also make it with
the athwartships gussets in place so all I need do is tab them to
the hull.  The gussets are extremely important due to the side
loading of the stops.  The more I do outside the space the easier
it will be.

I won't start the job until March after I return from skiing. 
I'll document the process and provide a link.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Jan 23, 2019 at 2:50 PM Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a
lng overdue maintenance session.  As in it's never been
done in 47 years!  Touche's steering system is by Morch.

If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will
inspire you to do so.

Oh, no!  Someone stole my pedestal!!
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx

I hope you find this helpful.  I found some items of concern.

Concern 1.  One of the steering cables had a broken strand.

  * See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw
  * The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend
around the quadrant just before the adjusting stud.
  * See:

http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg
  * A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his
Hans Christian 38 said he saw the same on his

Concern 2. Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were
damaged.  This was a complete surprise.

  * See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk
  * And:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8
  * This was apparently caused by the way C/Morch made
stops to limit the travel of the rudder.  They put a bolt
at each end of the chain. The bolts must have caused the
damage when the wheel reached its limit.
  * Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the
links of the chain here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf

Non-concerns. The rest of the system looked pretty good. The
idler sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be
in good condition.  I started to remove it but decided it
will be easier to just pull the pins, remove the sheaves,
clean, lube and re-install.

The turning 

Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Those are rubber pads, and I agree that they're there to cushion the 
plates.


I'll be on the boat tomorrow, will get some close up pictures and try to 
check the bolt size.  If I can reach in there, I'll try to get a trace 
of the Al plates, it appears there's actually one on each side.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 1/26/2019 1:24 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Neil,

Quick questions.  Hard to see but are there rubber pads behind the 
landing plates on the vertical structure?


I'm thinking rubber plates behind the landing plates and the two 
landing plates through bolted for movement and cushioning makes sense.


Also, what size are the fasteners that hold the plates to the 
quadrant?  1/4 inch?


No hurry.  I won't start this project until early March.

Dennis C.
Touche'

On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 12:55 PM Neil Gallagher via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Dennis,

Here's some pics, and yes, the stbd side wire is a PO kludge, -
the wire clamps, eye bolt, etc.  Your thread's got me looking at
it, time  to add it to the project list.

https://photos.app.goo.gl/4yE5o2R9T5ZxEDCy7

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY




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Each and every one is greatly appreciated. If you want to support
the list - use PayPal to send contribution --
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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Here's some pics, and yes, the stbd side wire is a PO kludge, - the wire 
clamps, eye bolt, etc.  Your thread's got me looking at it, time  to add 
it to the project list.


https://photos.app.goo.gl/4yE5o2R9T5ZxEDCy7

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/24/2019 11:47 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:

Joe,

Some pictures would be appreciated.  No hurry.  I won't tackle this 
job until after my ski trip (all of February).


Dennis C.

On Thu, Jan 24, 2019 at 8:05 AM Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


I would also put the original stops back. The bolt system is IMHO
sub-optimal at best.

I can send some photos and dimensions.

Joe

Coquina






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Re: Stus-List Touche' steering system disassembly - issues of concern discovered

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Dennis,

Thanks for the info, I'm going to have to look into my steering, also 
most likely also 47 yrs without an overhaul.


I note two differences between your system and mine:
- instead of bolts through the chain to limit the travel, mine has an 
aluminum plate bolted to the underside of the quadrant with "fingers" on 
each side which in turn contact a plate on each side of a centerline 
upright at the limiting angle,
-while your system has the engine controls in the pedestal, mine has 
them completely separate on the starboard side of the after cockpit.


Makes me wonder if C had different methods, particularly the angle 
stop, or if one was modified by a PO.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 1/23/2019 3:50 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Well, I disassembled Touche's steering system yesterday for a lng 
overdue maintenance session.  As in it's never been done in 47 years! 
Touche's steering system is by Morch.


If you haven't checked your steering system, maybe this will inspire 
you to do so.


Oh, no!  Someone stole my pedestal!! 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=12p-nlp8FEwqR0zhDrqlHqxkb7UMa0iSx


I hope you find this helpful.  I found some items of concern.

Concern 1.  One of the steering cables had a broken strand.

  * See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1Mu-dmCnPnDFdd5jGHnkBAGSqbGL6jnrw
  * The break occurred where the cable made a sharp bend around the
quadrant just before the adjusting stud.
  * See:

http://www.bwsailing.com/bw/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/Edson-Quadrant-Dwg.jpg
  * A buddy of mine who recently rebuilt the system in his Hans
Christian 38 said he saw the same on his

Concern 2.  Some of the teeth on the chain sprocket were damaged.  
This was a complete surprise.


  * See:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1amngA8i-rm1IkBvn0HhyVGeNrj7T6NSk
  * And:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1a1czFpkvfnyQuFbNIlfHZehhwk-Wyl-8
  * This was apparently caused by the way C/Morch made stops to
limit the travel of the rudder.  They put a bolt at each end of
the chain. The bolts must have caused the damage when the wheel
reached its limit.
  * Note the two bolts with washers and nuts through the links of the
chain here:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nvJzh8xWDgetBCEE8eeOAtz4-up4ZvCf

Non-concerns.  The rest of the system looked pretty good.  The idler 
sheaves and bracket under the pedestal appeared to be in good 
condition.  I started to remove it but decided it will be easier to 
just pull the pins, remove the sheaves, clean, lube and re-install.


The turning sheaves and brackets looked to be in good condition. (See: 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1jie9IxSqSKorp3FaJtcKjbsNh3nD1TBU). I 
cleaned them and will lube and re-install.


Next I needed to disassemble the engine control assembly so it can be 
stripped and painted.  Using guidance from Chuck, here's that process.


  * Back off or remove the two small Phillips head retaining machine
screws.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1VxT_ApckY55M7xXKoctIShPmIKxgrFUj
  * Move one lever COMPLETELY to one side and push the other lever
out.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1nqwnvA1UYDEHFVfuH9xi_-sy6YJrSOLE
  * Then remove the other lever.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1pjlIMBqk3lTdZ0vtSWg6TfnNFOcpXQZY

Next steps.

  * Strip powder coat off the pedestal and associated parts and paint
with AwlGrip.  Buddy of mine has leftover paint from painting his
mast.
  * Replace both cables.  I'm deciding on this.  Edson's cable and
wire kits look like simple swaged thimble eyes and fine thread eye
bolts.  I have a Nicropress swaging tool, swages and thimbles.  I
could make up the wire and buy the eye bolts.  On the other hand,
we have a local rigging shop who could machine swage nicer
replacements.  I think I may ask them for a quote.
  * The sprocket.  H.  The chain makes a full 180 degree wrap over
the sprocket.  I believe there are plenty of undamaged teeth that
will work.  On the other hand, I could try to get the sprocket off
the shaft and have a machine shop make a new one.  I think that
would be a risky option.  First, I'm not sure how I would remove
the sprocket.  It has set screws
(https://drive.google.com/open?id=12GbE75ERXZGgz_NalJ93RcXf6rKvL5fi).
I removed a small one on the sprocket and a larger one on a collar
adjacent to it.  I suspect there is a keyway on the sprocket.  It
showed no signs of moving.  There are some inventive ways to try
to pull the shaft but again, they all have risk.  Then there's the
issue of the bearings.  If I muck up the bearings, I'm screwed.
  * Give some thought to a better way to stop the wheel at the travel
limits.

Here's the link to the folder with all the pics. 
https://drive.google.com/open?id=14-oaTFUoebWqxBo8xeUm9K8tPn7xObKE


So, again, if you haven't check your steering system, you might want 
to move that up your work list a bit.  

Re: Stus-List hand held VHF with DSC

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

I have the same situation:  fixed and handheld both with DSC. From my 
MMSI certificate:

/
//All radios and other MMSI-requiring equipment (such as AIS units) 
permanently associated with the vessel should use the same MMSI. The 
MMSI number willremain with that vessel and its equipment regardless 
of owner. The registration must be cancelled or updated to reflect a new 
owner upon sale or trade of thevessel./


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 1/11/2019 11:32 AM, Pete Shelquist via CnC-List wrote:


Long story, but our local racing fleet has made a requirement that a 
boat must carry a handheld VHF _with DSC_ for offshore.


Admittedly, I haven’t looked into this yet, but my question to this 
crowd is; I already have an issued MMSI number for the boat’s AIS, is 
it smart to use that same number for the handheld also?   It seems, 
since it is portable and I theoretically could carry the handheld to 
any boat, I should register it with it’s own MMSI.   Is anyone aware 
of requirements or standard procedure for this?


Second question, are other fleets out there requiring this?

Thanks,



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Re: Stus-List [EXTERNAL] Re: Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Joe,

Lifeline replacement is high on my list for this spring, so let me ask a 
question.  I have two lines each side, the upper passes through 
relatively large eyes on top of the stanchions while the lower passes 
through holes barely bigger than the wire diameter, drilled through each 
stanchion. The upper line is no problem, but how were you able to fit 
the swaged or pressed ends through the holes, or do you have a different 
arrangement?  It appears to me I'd have to do the swage or press 
fittings in place.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 1/2/2019 10:33 AM, Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List wrote:


Not all West Marine shops are any good at rigging. The Annapolis West 
Marine has an actual rigging shop in the store and made my lifelines 
for pretty cheap. If you don’t have gates in the middle it is just 2 
pieces of wire, 4 ends, and labor to press them on. I think it was 
something like $120 or so for my boat.


*/Joe Della Barba/*

*/Coquina/*

*/C 35 MK I/*

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, January 02, 2019 9:22 AM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Matthew L. Wolford 
*Subject:* [EXTERNAL] Re: Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging 
tool for lifelines?


FWIW, it may be worth comparing the price of materials and a swage 
tool against the cost of having an outfitting company like Rigging 
Only fabricate replacements.


*From:*Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 

*Sent:*Wednesday, January 02, 2019 8:42 AM

*To:*C List 

*Cc:*Bruce Whitmore 

*Subject:*Stus-List Using West Marine in-store swaging tool for lifelines?

Hello all,

I need to replace the lifelines on my 1994 37/40+.  I am going to go 
with bare 7/19 wire, and need to crimp on the stud fittings.  For the 
hand crimp stud fittings, Johnson says not to use a nicopress tool.  
West Marine's had swage tool is set to use both for oval (nicopress) 
fittings and round fittings, but the person at the store had no idea 
if the tool was adequate for the stud lifeline fittings.


I wasn't ready to do it this weekend, but would like to get the job 
done shortly.


Does anyone here know?

Thank you!

Bruce Whitmore
"Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 



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Re: Stus-List Close Hauled Indicator

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Jeremy,

Some wind indicator systems have a separate direction gauge which show 
an enlarged scale for wind angles from 0 (ahead) to, say, 60 deg for use 
when going to windward.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/29/2018 12:10 PM, Jeremy Ralph via CnC-List wrote:

What the heck is a “Close Hauled Indicator?”

I peeled away the stickers off the fuse panel and the original panel 
inscription has a fuse for a “Close Hauled Indicator.”


Cheers,
  Jeremy
  1978 C #41


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Re: Stus-List Prop Shaft Strut - Removal, Alignment, and Re-bedding - C 36-1 KCB

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Tim,

While I haven't had to change out the strut, I've removed/reinstalled 
the engine a few times (don't ask), and used your basic approach:  shaft 
sliding easily in the bearing and centered in the log, then set the 
engine flange to the shaft flange while on the hard.  Checked it after 
splash, and found I had to adjust the engine a bit as the boat does flex 
differently in the water.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/28/2018 10:15 AM, Tim Rutherford via CnC-List wrote:
Prop shaft strut is weeping around the nuts inside the hull and 
externally the fairing shows cracks around the perimeter of the strut 
base although it doesn't feel loose. No slop in the Cutlass bearing. 
She's on the hard for bottom job and driveline maintenance. I'm 
interested in your thoughts on how best to proceed to remedy the strut 
mount leak and cracks in the fairing.


From the few posts I have found here, it seems the struts are aligned 
and bedded onto a hard substrate and that the mounting holes were 
drilled with a close fit. That said, it seems that to remount the 
strut all that is required is to remove the fairing material and then 
simply remove and replace, seal, and re-fair.


My questions are:
1.) How best to assess whether comprehensive strut alignment check is 
necessary i.e., laser, scope, yadda-yadda? I'm thinking that if the 
shaft slides easily through the remounted strut and into center of the 
shaft log and seal, and visually appears dead on center through all 
the above, than I can proceed with the engine alignment. If not what, 
call a pro? I have more time than money, so DIY work is preferred.


2.) How significant is hull flex on these boats while on the hard? I 
plan final engine alignment after launch, but could loading on the 
yard stands cause strut alignment to appear skewed? BTW, I'm working 
with an independent Yanmar mechanic for the engine mounts and alignment.


2.) What material for fairing and sealing the strut bed? What's the 
method of application?


The prop is a folding Martec two-blade RH17DX10P-3 Eliptec with 4" of 
clearance to the hull; found the center pin broken on one end. It's 
back at Martec for refurb. The motor mounts were DF2205-2 going back 
with OE Yanmar mounts. While under way, the vibration caused the sail 
locker lid to sound like rubber marbles in a blender at a frequency 
that was probably 2X prop speed. It seemed like a lot of vibration but 
there was no change since I purchased the boat in June '17, and after 
about a hundred hours of motoring. Shaft seal is a PYI PSS that is 
getting a new maintenance kit, and of course, the strut a new cutlass 
bearing.


Please share your thoughts if you have been through this or something 
similar. All help is appreciated.

--
Tim Rutherford
C 36-1 KCB #244 - Chamamé
Tampa, FL
tim.rutherford.m...@gmail.com 
813 748 4888 cel/text


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Re: Stus-List Mast step repair

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Jim,

Not sure how this would play out on a 26, but I had to replace the mast 
step on my 35-1, and while simple in theory, was not quite so easy to 
do.  Basically pull the mast, chop out all the old step support and 
replace.  The support was a glassed-over stack of plywood that spanned 
the bilge well.  What made it a PITA on the 35-1 was that the plywood, 
if the same size as what was originally used, would not fit through the 
width of the opening in the cabin sole.  I was able to fit a fiberglass 
board (from McMaster Carr) for the lowest level,  then built up 
equivalent thickness with layers of glass cloth that easily fit through 
the opening.  Others have used various other schemes to deal with this, 
depending on access.


As you say, should be straightforward, depends on how open the bilge 
area is.  Also make sure you mark well where the step was.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/21/2018 9:40 AM, James Hesketh via CnC-List wrote:
Next week's project is the repair/replacement of the mast step on my 
1978 C 26.


It looks to be a fairly straightforward job, and I have a rigger lined 
up to help with loosening and re-tuning the mast afterwards.


Has anyone here done this themselves -- any insight, advice, other 
things to look for, tricks of the trade, potential problems that may 
crop up?


Thanks, in advance.

Jim Hesketh
Whisper
Coconut Grove, FL



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Re: Stus-List Halyard Knot - was Shackle for Genoa Sheets? Halyard knot

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Splicing double-braid:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UghIS9xdiDw


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 11/8/2018 1:44 PM, John Conklin via CnC-List wrote:


Yes, I was planning on asking about the Halyard Knot as well.  I too 
have never heard of it ? This is a great Link !!


I also thought there was only 1 proper cleat Hitch as shown for the 
Halyard Cleat Hitch.  The Cleat Hitch for deck I have also never seem. 
Now if I can get the best video for the Double Braid eye Splice. I 
would like to give it a go.


Thanks again.

John Conklin

S/V Halcyon


*From:* CnC-List  on behalf of schiller 
via CnC-List 

*Sent:* Thursday, November 8, 2018 10:25:10 AM
*To:* Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List
*Cc:* schiller
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Halyard Knot - was Shackle for Genoa Sheets?
Mike,

Here is a good visual link to several useful knots.  In all my years 
of sailing (and tying loads while working in a lumber yard) I had not 
discovered the halyard knot.


https://www.animatedknots.com/indexboating.php

Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC

On 11/8/2018 9:32 AM, Hoyt, Mike via CnC-List wrote:


Hi Neil

Can you send a link to where I can see how to tie “Halyard Knot”?  I 
would like to use that instead of bowline on my jib halyard


Mike

Persistence

Halifax

No snow here … yet!

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of 
*schiller via CnC-List

*Sent:* Wednesday, November 07, 2018 10:32 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* schiller
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List Shackle for Genoa Sheets?

After buying a sheet and halyard kit from Cajun Ropes that came with 
loose ends, I have attached them with halyard knots and never had a 
hang up on shrouds or baby stays. The only thing that we get hung up 
on occasion is the forward hatch.  I have found the halyard knot to 
be much better than bowlines anduse them for the main outhaul and 
reefing line as well.  On our old Redwing 35, we had a continuous jib 
sheet with a luggage tag knot.  Both boats have separate spinnaker 
sheets so all we have to do is collect them up and tie them up on the 
bow pulpit.


Neil Schiller
1983 C 35-3, #028, "Grace"
Whitehall, Michigan
WLYC
All covered up and tucked in before the snow flies this week.



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Re: Stus-List Climbing the mast

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

My version of this is to use two ascenders on a tight line, one with two 
foot loops attached, and the other attached to a bosun's chair. I also 
have a halyard attached directly to the bosun's chair.  While my wife 
keeps tension on the halyard, I alternately step up using one hand and 
two feet, then slide the other ascender w/chair up, and then back to the 
foot loops, and repeat.  That way I do most of the climbing work but 
have the comfort of the chair, with the safety of the second halyard.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 11/5/2018 10:57 PM, Brian Fry via CnC-List wrote:
I use rock climbing gear. An ascender with webbing loops attached , 
and a self belay gri gri on my harness. I use 2 different halyards. I 
can get up my 37/40 fairly quickly, reach the spreader tips, and stand 
in the loops to do work on equipment at the top.


S/V La Neige
1993 C 37/40 XL
Havre de Grace , MD
FB blog : thenext14years
Brian and Manon


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Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

A local rigger made a halyard for me, and at the tail end running back 
to the cockpit he removed the core (3/8" Sta-set) before he spliced an 
eye in it.  The purpose was to allow me to use a messenger line and have 
it all fit through the sheave at the masthead.  That way I can remove 
the halyard for the winter much more easily.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 11/5/2018 6:57 PM, Dennis C. via CnC-List wrote:
Feeding halyards through the clutches is easier since I downsized the 
lines.  When I installed the clutches, I was using 7/16 halyards.  Now 
I use 3/8 VPC which is smaller and slicker.  I have Lewmar D2 
clutches.  They fit up to 9/16 " line.  I use a loop of parachute cord 
or leech line as a messenger to pull the halyard through.


I forgot to add to my previous post that once line has been loaded, it 
is very difficult to add an eye splice.  If you don't add the eye 
splice at purchase, you need to be conscious of not loading the free 
end if you plan to add an eye.


Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Mon, Nov 5, 2018 at 4:56 PM Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


Hi Dennis,

I have noticed this comment of yours before, and have a question. 
If your halyards have an eye on each end, how do you get them
through the clutches?

Just curious,
Bruce Whitmore
C 37/40+ "Astralis"
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net 



*From:* Dennis C. via CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*To:* CnClist mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
*Cc:* Dennis C. mailto:capt...@gmail.com>>
*Sent:* Monday, November 5, 2018 5:44 PM
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List abrasion on halyard

Also, while we're on the subject of halyard damage, this is
EXACTLY why I buy extra length on my halyards (and sheets). 
Damage to running rigging is more than likely going to happen near
an end.  If you bought extra line, all you need do is to cut off
the damaged part and end for end the line.

I even buy my halyards and sheets with an eye on EACH end.  For
Touche's sheets, it's no big deal because I use soft shackles and
the ends are then interchangeable.

For halyards, it's a bit more complicated.  The first version gets
a "D" bail snap shackle.  If I need to end for end it, the second
version must use a screw pin snap shackle.

In the long run, I think it saves money and effort.

I have a buddy who NEVER does this.  Always buys halyards to exact
length needed. He's had to buy an entire halyard more than once
over the years.

Dennis C.
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Re: Stus-List Small leak cb trunk/keel leak

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Charlie,

It's been a oldie but goodie topic on this list, but the proper way to 
torque the keel bolts is with the boat on the hard, in which condition 
the bolts are unloaded and torquing to spec gives the proper preload 
stress in the bolts.   Doing it in the water with the bolts under 
tension could lead to over-stressing and not getting the proper 
compression between the keel and hull.  That said, if they are loose 
enough to cause the the leak, of course you'd want to tighten them some, 
just not to the full spec.  You might want to just put a wrench on them 
and see if they turn easily (mine did).


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 11/1/2018 11:06 AM, Charlie Nelson via CnC-List wrote:
I noticed a small water leak at the very aft end of the centerboard 
(cb) trunk/keel (where it meets the hull) of my 1995 C 36 XL/kcb 
while she was hanging from the travel lift awaiting to be splashed. It 
is not anything like the C 'smile'.


My assumption is that it was bilge water seeping out and the rate was 
about 75 drops of water per minute. Except for the crack in the bottom 
paint at the leak, the entire outside of the cb/trunk /keel was 
otherwise totally dry. (Her bottom had just been stripped sanded down 
to the gelcoat, new barrier coat was applied and several coats of 
bottom paint were sprayed on and then burnished.)


I spoke with the yard worker who worked on the boat and he said there 
was no leak while she was on the stands with the cb trunk/keel 
supported by a block. In this case, the cb trunk/keel was likely 
pushed up to the hull, probably preventing any leaking. Once the keel 
was hanging from the lift, the keel was not supported and the leak 
began and was visible.


I did not notice any leaking during previous yearly haul-outs for 
bottom painting etc. (but I did not usually have her hanging in the 
slings long enough to notice anything.). Since my bilge has had some 
water in it for years (previously believed to be from rain-water down 
the mast), this might be the cause . I should note that the keel 
bolt/nuts that I can see LOOK to be in as-new condition.


As to the cause, she has spent ~24 years in the water (except for 
yearly maintenance haul-outs).  She had a single sharp encounter with 
an underwater cypress stump but otherwise has not hit anything hard in 
the NC sounds--they are mostly soft mud or sand. I do race her and use 
a hydraulic backstay adjuster which certainly attempts to bend the 
hull away from the cb/trunk/keel.


After reviewing the C stuff on the photo album and some articles 
from the web, my thoughts are that:


1) this leak is likely the source of the water in my bilge and that it 
has likely existed for some time (years) but was never noticed on the 
outside to the hull.
2) and following the KISS principle, I figured my first move should be 
to bring the keel bolts to their torque specification--they have never 
been tightened.
3) and that I can do this with the boat in the water initially until 
my next yearly haul-out in 2019, when with the cb trunk/keel 
supported, I could re-tighten them.
4) and finally, if the leak remains (minor) after the bolts are 
properly torqued, I can opt for an expensive cb-keel/keel joint repair 
or live with the leak.


Any hints/tips from listers on this would be welcome.

Thanks,

Charlie Nelson
Water Phantom
1995 C 36 XL/kcb



cenel...@aol.com


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Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Actual Drive (Draft?)

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

It's a matter of waterplane area (the area of the plane created by your 
waterline).  What it amounts to is that the weight to sink one inch is 
equal to the weight of the water pushed aside as the boat sinks one 
inch.  That amount of water is the waterplane area x 1". If you are in 
light water (fresh) it takes less weight to sink 1" than if you're in 
heavy water (salt), with salt water being 2.5% heavier than fresh, in 
general.


In general a beamy hull will have more waterplane area for a given 
length than a narrow hull, so yes, a beamy boat would take more weight 
to sink 1"


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/29/2018 11:15 PM, Marek Dziedzic via CnC-List wrote:


Probably somewhat empirical number, but it has to change depending on 
the shape of the boat (the more beamy it is, the less it would sink 
with the same increase of weight), doesn’t it?


Marek

1994 C270 ”Legato” (quite beamy)

Ottawa, ON

*From:*CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Jim 
Watts via CnC-List

*Sent:* Monday, October 29, 2018 21:51
*To:* 1 CnC List 
*Cc:* Jim Watts 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List C 35-3 Actual Drive

Swiped off the internet:

POUNDS PER INCH IMMERSION (PPI):
The weight required to sink the yacht one inch.
It is calculated by multiplying the LWL area by 5.333 for sea water or 
5.2 for fresh.
The PPI usually increases as the hull sinks into the water as the LWL 
area is also increasing

due to the shape of the hull above water.

Jim Watts
Paradigm Shift
C 35 Mk III
Victoria, BC



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Re: Stus-List 2018 Mid-Atlantic C Rendezvous - this weekend!

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

While there may be room to meet in Josh's boat, the Mid-Atlantic 
Rendezvous will have to work to top Starship Enterprise in the way of 
drinks...


https://www.dropbox.com/sh/3dz1x07ih09zjfo/AADWVp2cFVFcEbiJfXQJNDZ2a?dl=0

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/22/2018 7:22 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
There's lots of room and everybody is welcome, but with 10 couples 
coming I think 20 people might be a little tight Edd!


Josh

On Mon, Oct 22, 2018, 12:31 PM Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


There should be plenty of room for everyone inside Josh’s boat to
host inside.

See: https://www.dropbox.com/s/wjkzr5aw5uu4r61/IMG_2349.JPG?dl=0

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 





On Oct 22, 2018, at 12:08 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

We're still planning to arrive Thursday afternoon.  Friday is
looking great, we'll be entering all day.  Saturday weather is
looking kinda snotty so Carmel and I will be available and willing
to entertain inside all day.  Sunday should be better and Monday
is shaping up to be a decent departure.

Follow and post videos and pictures to the Facebook page.  Feel
free to message us there as well.

https://www.facebook.com/2018MACCR/

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C 37+
Solomons, MD




On Mon, Oct 22, 2018, 11:10 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The rendezvous is this weekend.  Bunch of folks have responded
they are attending.

The agenda remains flexible. Apparently the only fixed
activity is a pot luck on the docks Friday night.

The Admiral and I are looking forward to meeting a bunch of
fellow C owners.  We'll be there Saturday afternoon.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA
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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

https://www.whalepumps.com/marine/product.aspx?Category_ID=10009_ID=10006=Double-Acting-Mk-5

Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 10/18/2018 8:56 AM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote:
Easier just to replace the unit? Are they now using composites or 
still using corrosive alloys?? Seems silly not to use composites in 
this day an age particularly around salt water.


Chris


Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 

On Thursday, October 18, 2018, 8:51 AM, Dennis C. via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I'll ditto the comments about the alloy corrosion in Whale
Gushers.  I've replaced the one on Touche' twice in 19 years. 
Both times the sealing surface for the flapper style check valves
were corroded.

The last time I disassembled the new pump prior to installation,
coated all the alloy surfaces with TefGel, reassembled and then
installed it.

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

On Wed, Oct 17, 2018 at 3:54 PM Chris Graham via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to
be compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to
replace it or install a better system in the lazarette, such
as a whale or something similar?

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

Chris
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Re: Stus-List Manual bilge

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Following up on Rick's comment, I found on my Whale Gusher pump that the 
flappers were not working because the internal threads for the screws 
that hold them in place had corroded in the tapped holes in the pump 
body.  The metal was some cast alloy and it wasn't just stripped 
threads, there was no material left to tap oversized threads; in other 
words, it was junk.  Maybe Devcon would have worked, but I replaced it 
with a plastic body version, works fine.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly, 35-1
Glen Cove, NY

On 10/17/2018 9:17 PM, Chris Graham via CnC-List wrote:


That very well could be it Rick!! I haven’t pulled it apart or really 
gotten into it yet and it may need to wait for spring as the days are 
shorter and the snow is on its way.


I wasn’t sure if there was a check valve in the system or not and the 
previous owner was unsure. She has a brand new electric bilge pump but 
not sure that has a check valve either. Something I was going to 
install next season


Thanks for the tip. I’ll see what I find :)

Chris

Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 

On Wednesday, October 17, 2018, 9:10 PM, Rick Brass via CnC-List 
 wrote:


I think you might find that the bilge pump you have is a Whale
Gusher. At least the pump in my 75 vintage 25 mk1 was a Whale.

My problem was not the diaphragm but the flapper valves in the
inlet and outlet of the pump. They no longer sealed properly after
25 or 30 years in place. A relatively inexpensive rebuild kit and
a few hours labor fixed the problem.

On my 25, the pump is mounted on the bottom side of the cockpit
sole. The hardest part of the repair was crawling down there to
remove the pump and then reinstalling it later.

Which reminds me I need to add a pump rebuild to the list of
projects on my 38.

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

*From:*CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf
Of *Chris Graham via CnC-List
*Sent:* Wednesday, October 17, 2018 4:53 PM
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Chris Graham 
*Subject:* Stus-List Manual bilge

The diaphragm on the manual bilge pump in the cockpit seems to be
compromised. Would one try to find a new diaphragm to replace it
or install a better system in the lazarette, such as a whale or
something similar?

Do they even make replacement diaphragms for a 1978 26’?

Chris
Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone 

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Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Same here, I pull the paddle wheel every time I leave the boat to 
prevent growth on it.  Water going's to spray in, but it's no big deal.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY



On 10/11/2018 11:43 AM, Gary Nylander via CnC-List wrote:


Dan, there are a lot of us who regularly pull our speed transducers. 
You may get a pint of water inside (mine is under the dinette and 
drains into the bilge). Fear not. Get someone to spin the wheel and 
see if it works.


Gary

30-1

*From:* CnC-List  *On Behalf Of *Dan 
via CnC-List

*Sent:* Thursday, October 11, 2018 10:58 Am
*To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
*Cc:* Dan 
*Subject:* Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

I had a tech support ticket open with Actisense (the Digital NMEA 
product I'm using to read my data streams from my transducers) and 
they confirmed that if the padwheel is not spinning, NO data will be 
formed and no NMEA sentenses will be transmitted. SO - YES, the 
padwheel HAS to spin, and it's not a wiring issue (95% certain)...


That said, I went out on deck and tried pulling a line along the 
underside of the hull to activate the wheel and tried using oars to 
move the water around the waterline but then it started to rain so I 
gave up the attempt. The only other non-evasive method is to get in 
the dinghy and try to reach the wheel with my hand... or bite the 
bullet and try pulling the sensor out completely and replacing it with 
the plug which to me sounds like extremely risky business but you guys 
seem to think it's a breeze...


WISH ME LUCK!

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 10:57 AM Dennis C. via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


What Ed says.

I never leave Touché’s paddle wheel in. Only put it in when we go
sailing.

Dennis C.

Sent from my iPhone


On Oct 10, 2018, at 8:34 AM, Edward Levert via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Dan

You should have a plug which allows you to remove the
transducer with the boat in the water. Simple process of
pulling the transducer and inserting the plug. If done
quickly, you might let 2 cups of water in. Will need a person
spinning the paddle and one looking at the instrument.

Ed Levert

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 8:30 AM Dan via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

Thanks guys.

Difficult to get the padwheel moving when the boat is in
the slip and there's no current lol.

I can try sticking my outboard motor in front of the boat
and gunning it to get the water flowing... or I can get in
the dinghy and try to reach under to spin the wheel
manually...

Before I do that - I have a digital readout of my NMEA
0183 sentences so I can analyze the readouts line by line.
I don't even have a readout for "0.0.0" on the speed (or
any speed data at all) I'm wonderring IF the padweel isn't
turning, it will literally give back NO data / sentences
at all? not even a "0.0.0"?

Dan

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 9:58 AM Matthew L. Wolford via
CnC-List mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:

I also had a paddlewheel issue caused by bottom
paint.  I did not discover the nature of the problem
was until the boat was out of the water.

*From:*Edward Levert via CnC-List


*Sent:*Wednesday, October 10, 2018 8:50 AM

*To:*cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

*Cc:*Edward Levert 

*Subject:*Re: Stus-List padwheel issues

Dan

The paddle wheel needs to spin to get a reading. I
have an Airmar transducer for the ST 60. It stopped
giving speed readings even though the paddle was clean
and rotated easily. A new paddle solved the issue. My
guess is that the build up of bottom paint was
blocking the impulse signal the paddle creates.
Perhaps scrapping the paddle free of paint might solve
your problem.

Ed Levert

C 34 Briar Patch

New Orleans

On Wed, Oct 10, 2018 at 7:39 AM Dan via CnC-List
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>>
wrote:

Hi all, I have a ST850 Airmar speed/temperature
transducer that I'm trying to get working (again)
with my new equipment. I'm pretty sure the issue
is with the wiring so if any of you have this
transducer maybe you know where I'm going wrong?

***My ST850 is from 2006 so I'm pretty 

Re: Stus-List New Genoa?

[Neil Gallagher via CnC-List]

Edd,

I went with Rolly Tasker (Thailand), 145%, 7-oz, sunbrella w/foam luff.  
$2175 including shipping.  I've used it for six seasons.  Not much of a 
racing sail, but it's good for cruising, high foot to see under, seems 
to take a beating pretty well.


Neil Gallagher
Weatherly 35-1
Glen Cove, NY


On 10/6/2018 2:49 PM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List wrote:

Listers,

I just took my genoa off the forestay for the winter and it looks 
like, after 13 seasons, well... how do I put this


“She’s dead, Jim.”

So now I’m in the market for a new 135 cruising headsail, with RF 
tape, draft stripes, sun cover on the leech and foot, and sail numbers.


Given that I don’t race the Enterprise any more, I don’t need any 
super laminates, but I’d like something not too heavy. Really just 
something that will get me where I need to go, be it a daysail, an 
overnighter or a C Rendezvous.


And, oh yeah, no bank breaking.

Any recommendations? Are those overseas outfits like Far East any good?

All the best,

Edd

---
Edd M. Schillay
Captain of the Starship Enterprise
C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island Yacht Club | City Island, NY
www.StarshipSailing.com 
---
914.774.9767   | Mobile
---
Sent via iPhone X
iPhone. iTypos. iApologize



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