Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Joel Aronson]

Wally,

Hope the cruise was awesome!  From what I have read, the new Xantrex stuff
is garbage!  Luckily, I have not been shopping for a charger - yet.

Joel


On Wed, Jun 12, 2013 at 1:35 PM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> Wow.  973 Messages...I've been away from the dock too long. 
>
> Speaking of the dock, I spent most of last year being a marina rat.  We
> had two spectacular electrical fires, where a dockbox exploded due to bad
> wiring.  There are no electrical codes down here, and the first repair was
> done by committeemade up of marina security guards.  Really.  I was inside
> my boatand saw the reverse polarity light going on and off and turning dim,
> so stuck my head out to see what the heck was going on.  Six guys were
> standing in a puddle of salt water, splicing new wire directly onto the
> spot where the fire started, while the entire dock circuit was live.
> Welcome to Mexico. Therepair was then wrapped with an entire roll of duct
> tape. Naturally, the next time a boat plugged in, the repair exploded and
> caught on fire again.
>
> While my Freedommarine charger still outputs a charge, all the stuff that
> managed the 3 stage charging, as well as the monitoring circuits in my Link
> 2000, are scrambled.  So I'm starting to think about what's next.
>
> I haven't really been watching the technology changes in the last 10
> years, but believe that there's new 'pulse' technology and better stuff
> than Xantrex.
>
> Any recommendations in the 50A range, 110V 60Hz?
>
> Wal
>
> --
> s/v Stella Blue
> www.wbryant.com
>
>
> __**_
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Dennis C.]

Hey, Wal

My Xantrex charger and inverter are going strong.  However, if I had to replace 
one of them I'd look at Mastervolt.  Mastervolt is making some decent stuff.  

http://www.mastervolt.us/marine/products/

Dennis C.
Touche' 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA





>
> From: Wally Bryant 
>To: "cnc-list@cnc-list.com"  
>Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 12:35 PM
>Subject: Stus-List Battery charger
> 
>
>Wow.  973 Messages...I've been away from the dock too long. 
>
>Speaking of the dock, I spent most of last year being a marina rat.  We 
>had two spectacular electrical fires, where a dockbox exploded due to 
>bad wiring.  There are no electrical codes down here, and the first 
>repair was done by committeemade up of marina security guards.  Really.  
>I was inside my boatand saw the reverse polarity light going on and off 
>and turning dim, so stuck my head out to see what the heck was going 
>on.  Six guys were standing in a puddle of salt water, splicing new wire 
>directly onto the spot where the fire started, while the entire dock 
>circuit was live. Welcome to Mexico. Therepair was then wrapped with an 
>entire roll of duct tape. Naturally, the next time a boat plugged in, 
>the repair exploded and caught on fire again.
>
>While my Freedommarine charger still outputs a charge, all the stuff 
>that managed the 3 stage charging, as well as the monitoring circuits in 
>my Link 2000, are scrambled.  So I'm starting to think about what's next.
>
>I haven't really been watching the technology changes in the last 10 
>years, but believe that there's new 'pulse' technology and better stuff 
>than Xantrex.
>
>Any recommendations in the 50A range, 110V 60Hz?
>
>Wal
>
>-- 
>s/v Stella Blue
>www.wbryant.com
>
>
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>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Frederick G Street]

Hi, Wal -- another vote for the Mastervolt.  Either that or the Victron 
chargers: http://www.victronenergy.com/markets/marine  (but they're pricey…).


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 12, 2013, at 12:45 PM, "Dennis C."  wrote:

> Hey, Wal
> 
> My Xantrex charger and inverter are going strong.  However, if I had to 
> replace one of them I'd look at Mastervolt.  Mastervolt is making some decent 
> stuff.  
> 
> http://www.mastervolt.us/marine/products/
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Steve Thomas]

 I think the "pulse" technology is aimed more at rejuvenating sulphated 
batteries than maintaining good ones.

 If you're going to be purchasing new stuff, it might be time to consider a 
power conditioner of some sort. Voltage regulating
resonant transformers are pretty much bullet proof and not terribly expensive 
if you only need to handle a few hundred watts.


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 1:35 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Battery charger


Wow.  973 Messages...I've been away from the dock too long. 

Speaking of the dock, I spent most of last year being a marina rat.  We
had two spectacular electrical fires, where a dockbox exploded due to
bad wiring.  There are no electrical codes down here, and the first
repair was done by committeemade up of marina security guards.  Really.
I was inside my boatand saw the reverse polarity light going on and off
and turning dim, so stuck my head out to see what the heck was going
on.  Six guys were standing in a puddle of salt water, splicing new wire
directly onto the spot where the fire started, while the entire dock
circuit was live. Welcome to Mexico. Therepair was then wrapped with an
entire roll of duct tape. Naturally, the next time a boat plugged in,
the repair exploded and caught on fire again.

While my Freedommarine charger still outputs a charge, all the stuff
that managed the 3 stage charging, as well as the monitoring circuits in
my Link 2000, are scrambled.  So I'm starting to think about what's next.

I haven't really been watching the technology changes in the last 10
years, but believe that there's new 'pulse' technology and better stuff
than Xantrex.

Any recommendations in the 50A range, 110V 60Hz?

Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Knowles Rich]

Ditto. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-06-12, at 14:56, Frederick G Street  wrote:

Hi, Wal -- another vote for the Mastervolt.  Either that or the Victron 
chargers: http://www.victronenergy.com/markets/marine  (but they're pricey…).


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Jun 12, 2013, at 12:45 PM, "Dennis C."  wrote:

> Hey, Wal
> 
> My Xantrex charger and inverter are going strong.  However, if I had to 
> replace one of them I'd look at Mastervolt.  Mastervolt is making some decent 
> stuff.  
> 
> http://www.mastervolt.us/marine/products/
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touche' 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[LKL Architects]

WallyI am probably the least knowledgeable of all the posters on the 
listbut when I bought Finesse 2 years agothe charger was not 
workingrather than just buy a new one.I called Charles 
Industries.found them very helpful and for $100 they replaced the panel 
board checked it outhas been performing greatwas happy not to have to 
buy a new onebut when I do...will certainly consider Charles 

Lloyd Lippe
Finesse
1985 LF39
  - Original Message - 
  From: Wally Bryant 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 12:35 PM
  Subject: Stus-List Battery charger


  Wow.  973 Messages...I've been away from the dock too long. 

  Speaking of the dock, I spent most of last year being a marina rat.  We 
  had two spectacular electrical fires, where a dockbox exploded due to 
  bad wiring.  There are no electrical codes down here, and the first 
  repair was done by committeemade up of marina security guards.  Really.  
  I was inside my boatand saw the reverse polarity light going on and off 
  and turning dim, so stuck my head out to see what the heck was going 
  on.  Six guys were standing in a puddle of salt water, splicing new wire 
  directly onto the spot where the fire started, while the entire dock 
  circuit was live. Welcome to Mexico. Therepair was then wrapped with an 
  entire roll of duct tape. Naturally, the next time a boat plugged in, 
  the repair exploded and caught on fire again.

  While my Freedommarine charger still outputs a charge, all the stuff 
  that managed the 3 stage charging, as well as the monitoring circuits in 
  my Link 2000, are scrambled.  So I'm starting to think about what's next.

  I haven't really been watching the technology changes in the last 10 
  years, but believe that there's new 'pulse' technology and better stuff 
  than Xantrex.

  Any recommendations in the 50A range, 110V 60Hz?

  Wal

  -- 
  s/v Stella Blue
  www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Wally Bryant]

Josh -

You wouldn't want it.  Actually, it's a 2000-R, and also controls the 
voltage regulator for my alternator.  Only *some* of the functions seem 
to be out-to-lunch, but it still seems to handle one very important 
function well: limiting the output of the alternator.  I have a 120A 
alternator, but set it to max 80A output to avoid running the alternator 
flat out.  (It gets hot enough at 80A, and at 50 percent depletion my 
house bank can only accept 80A for a short time.)  Most of the 
monitoring functions, though, are demonstrating anomalous behavior.  For 
example, it'll show that my starting battery has -189 Amp Hours 
(impossible) while the actual voltage on the battery is 12.6V i.e. full 
charge.  And the house bank will be at -40AH and then suddenly show a 
full tank, while the batteries are still accepting 20A and the charger 
is already in float mode.  Like I said, the intelligent circuits got fried.


I've had it for 12 years now, and know what normal behavior is.

Actually, this charger was the first thing I bought when I bought the 
boat, because the old charger was a "Consta-Volt" from the 1970's.  It 
was on the recommendation of some dock 'experts,' and the concept of an 
entirely integrated charger/inverter/voltage regulator system sounded 
really cool.  Note that I have totally changed my philosophy about 
integrated systems.  All my instruments are stand-alone and networked 
via NMEA, so that if one component fails I can swap in a replacement 
without messing with anything else.  (Except for NMEA )  I've been 
watching my Heart Freedom for years, knowing that if it fails I'll have 
to deal with a new charger, new inverter, and possibly a new voltage 
regulator.  Fortunately I figured that out before rewiring the AC side 
of the boat, and pulled wire and breakers for entirely separate 
charger/inverter systems.  But a PITA is still a PITA. And, to be 
honest, I don't really need an inverter; in four years of non-stop 
cruising I've probably used it four times to run the vacuum cleaner.  
I'm totally 12V.


Thanks for the input about Master-Volt.  I'll start researching.

Regarding the pulse chargers, I had thought that the big advantage is 
that they didn't just recover sulfated batteries, but avoided sulfation 
in the first place.  But again, I'm not an expert.  It's important to 
note that I routinely run my batteries down, and when necessary run the 
Honda 2000 to generate AC to run the battery charger.  (Yes, I should 
have put a wind generator on the boat.)


Wal



Josh Muckley wrote:

Let me know if you decide you want to take me up on disposing of your link
2000.



--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Knowles Rich]

Wal:  Be careful with that assumption. It might be a female. 

Rich Knowles
Indigo. LF38
Halifax

On 2013-06-12, at 17:54, Wally Bryant  wrote:

> I've had it for 12 years now, and know what normal behavior is

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Della Barba, Joe]

No connection other than that I bought a charger from here, but IMHO the prices 
are pretty good.

http://stores.ebay.com/The-ChargerGuy/Marine-Chargers-12vt-Dry-Mount-/_i.html?_fsub=2458863012&_sid=290185052&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

YMMV and all...

Joe Della Barba
Coquina

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Martin DeYoung]

Xantrex's service and quality are poor when compared to the original Heart 
Interface organization.  I also have a troubled LINK 2000 controller and was 
unable to get service assistance from Xantrex even after visiting the factory 
(before it left Washington State).

I used to sell transformers to Heart Interface and met with some of their 
engineers from time to time (one used to own a C&C Landfall, maybe a 38).  The 
older designs were mostly robust and could withstand much of what shore power 
variation would throw at them.  Do keep an eye on how much heat is being 
generated on the circuit board that is cooled by the fan.  IIRC when the 
Mosfets fail they can create a condition that would cause a fire if 
combustibles are up against the cooling slots.

I lean away from switch mode chargers/inverters preferring the more robust 
analog designs (heavy transformer based), especially for systems that will see 
24/7 use. The lightweight switchers may work well for those that want light 
weight power to charge a cell phone.

Martin
Calypso
1970 C&C 43
Seattle

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally Bryant
Sent: Wednesday, June 12, 2013 10:35 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Battery charger

Wow.  973 Messages...I've been away from the dock too long. 

Speaking of the dock, I spent most of last year being a marina rat.  We had two 
spectacular electrical fires, where a dockbox exploded due to bad wiring.  
There are no electrical codes down here, and the first repair was done by 
committeemade up of marina security guards.  Really.  
I was inside my boatand saw the reverse polarity light going on and off and 
turning dim, so stuck my head out to see what the heck was going on.  Six guys 
were standing in a puddle of salt water, splicing new wire directly onto the 
spot where the fire started, while the entire dock circuit was live. Welcome to 
Mexico. Therepair was then wrapped with an entire roll of duct tape. Naturally, 
the next time a boat plugged in, the repair exploded and caught on fire again.

While my Freedommarine charger still outputs a charge, all the stuff that 
managed the 3 stage charging, as well as the monitoring circuits in my Link 
2000, are scrambled.  So I'm starting to think about what's next.

I haven't really been watching the technology changes in the last 10 years, but 
believe that there's new 'pulse' technology and better stuff than Xantrex.

Any recommendations in the 50A range, 110V 60Hz?

Wal

--
s/v Stella Blue
www.wbryant.com


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Wally Bryant]

 HA!  Believe it or not, I'm currently at anchor watching 'Blakes7' (a 
BBC sci-fi series from the 1970's) and now believe that the term 'The 
Admiral' should be henceforth 'The Supreme Commander.'  


And I wonder why my batteries get run down...

Wal


Rich wrote:

Wal:  Be careful with that assumption. It might be a female.




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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I have been very happy with my ProMariner, although I think you'll be 
happy with any of these new solid state chargers.  You'll also get some 
waterline back.   Separating the charger and inverter is a great 
idea. I'm glad I wired the boat for that, even though I had a Heart 
Freedom at the time.


The Sterling charger is the exact same thing under a different brand and 
might be cheaper. 



If the integral echo charger in your Freedom still works, pull the case 
off and remove the echo charger.  It's on a little heat sink of its own, 
and comes out with four screws.  It's worth money or gift karma points, 
even if you don't need it yourself.


I kept my Link 2000-R monitor, and the shunts and everything.

I'd also recommend the remote control panel for the nav station. I 
didn't get it, because it's not available in Mexico, and because my 
charger's mounted under the nav station and it's no big deal to look 
down and see the front panel.  There might be more configuration options 
available with the remote panel -- don't know.  The only thing I don't 
like -- and it's really minor -- is that it gets fooled easily by house 
loads and thus doesn't drop into float mode when I think it should.  
That's just the way I use it, though, since I'll fire up the Honda 2000 
when on the hook, and when I do that I'll run the watermaker and defrost 
the freezer which makes the compressor run max RPM, and so on.  That 
makes the charger think that the batteries are still accepting 15 amps 
when actually they're full.  No big deal.


Wal

Stephen wrote:

Anyone have suggestions about which brand of battery charger I should look at?

I am replacing a 23 yr old Freedom/Heart 50 amp charger/inverter.

Will probably go to a 40 or 50 amp charger only and get a separate 1000 watt 
inverter.



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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

+1 on the ProNauticP

http://promariner.com/products/dry-mount-marine-battery-chargers/pronauticp-series/

I have been very happy with my 60amp 3 bank version.  It is buried in the
boat so I got the remote operating panel too.  I recommend it.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Sep 27, 2014 1:21 PM, "Stephen Thorne via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Anyone have suggestions about which brand of battery charger I should look
> at?
>
> I am replacing a 23 yr old Freedom/Heart 50 amp charger/inverter.
>
> Will probably go to a 40 or 50 amp charger only and get a separate 1000
> watt inverter.
>
> Stephen Thorne
> C&C 34+
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Choose the max charging amps as a percentage of the smallest battery bank
capacity.

Wet cell = 25%  (200amp-hour = 50amp charger)
Gell cell = 30%
AGM = 40%

Josh
 On Sep 27, 2014 1:21 PM, "Stephen Thorne via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
>
> Anyone have suggestions about which brand of battery charger I should look
> at?
>
> I am replacing a 23 yr old Freedom/Heart 50 amp charger/inverter.
>
> Will probably go to a 40 or 50 amp charger only and get a separate 1000
> watt inverter.
>
> Stephen Thorne
> C&C 34+
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>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Seems odd.  Hydrogen is produced at/in the batteries not the charger.  The
two could be (in my case are) separated by a significant distance.

I must have missed that in the instructions.  (Would have helped if I read
them.)  Mine is installed vertically with no problems.  Ventilation is not
horrible but could be better...still no problems.

Josh
On Sep 27, 2014 6:19 PM, "Patrick Wesley"  wrote:

> Helped by comments from the list I recently had a ProMariner installed.
> The installer placed it vertically and I thought nothing of this until I
> read the manual. On page 13 it clearly states "install horizontally". Spoke
> to their help line technician, he said only requirement is for plenty of
> air circulation to dissipate the hydrogen produced during charging. So why
> print the vertical requirement!?
>
> Btw, seems to be working well.
>
> Patrick Wesley, The Boat.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 27, 2014, at 2:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Anybody know this boat?
>
> We saw it on a recent trip to Uraguay.  It is US flagged and I think I
> recall Delaware on the transom.
>
>
> https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yRXdscnhWQnlYSFk/edit?usp=docslist_api
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Patrick Wesley via CnC-List]

Josh, you are course correct. I was focusing more on the irrelevant wording in 
the manual. Patrick 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 27, 2014, at 3:43 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> 
> Seems odd.  Hydrogen is produced at/in the batteries not the charger.  The 
> two could be (in my case are) separated by a significant distance.
> 
> I must have missed that in the instructions.  (Would have helped if I read 
> them.)  Mine is installed vertically with no problems.  Ventilation is not 
> horrible but could be better...still no problems.
> 
> Josh
> 
>> On Sep 27, 2014 6:19 PM, "Patrick Wesley"  wrote:
>> Helped by comments from the list I recently had a ProMariner installed. The 
>> installer placed it vertically and I thought nothing of this until I read 
>> the manual. On page 13 it clearly states "install horizontally". Spoke to 
>> their help line technician, he said only requirement is for plenty of air 
>> circulation to dissipate the hydrogen produced during charging. So why print 
>> the vertical requirement!?
>> 
>> Btw, seems to be working well. 
>> 
>> Patrick Wesley, The Boat. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>>> On Sep 27, 2014, at 2:20 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Anybody know this boat?
>>> 
>>> We saw it on a recent trip to Uraguay.  It is US flagged and I think I 
>>> recall Delaware on the transom.
>>> 
>>> https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8pEh5lnvP1yRXdscnhWQnlYSFk/edit?usp=docslist_api
>>> 
>>> Josh Muckley
>>> S/V Sea Hawk
>>> 1989 C&C 37+
>>> Solomons, MD
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>>> 
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>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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>>> page at:
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Jim — a 20amp charger is pretty minimal for your battery setup and 
electrical needs; typical minimum would be based 0n 10% of your house bank’s 
total amp-hours, which I’d guess to be around 300 amp-hours or so.  So you’d be 
looking at a 30-amp or larger battery charger.

The Mastervolt 35-amp would be a good choice; and I also have some friends who 
have put in the ProMariner ProNauticP 30-amp charger:

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1%7C328%7C2289962%7C2289966&id=1512412
 

Defender sells these for about $360.00; unfortunately I can’t get these at cost 
as my vendor does not carry them.  But they look like a nice charger.  And you 
can get a decent remote for them, as well:

https://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?name=promariner-digital-display-and-remote-control&path=-1%7C328%7C2289962%7C2289970&id=1795912
 


The remote options for the Mastervolt use the MasterBus display, which is about 
a $400.00 item.

— Fred

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

> On Feb 5, 2018, at 7:04 PM, detroito91 via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> Looking to replace current prosport12. I carry 4 batteries.  1 for starter 
> and remaining 3 are house.
> Promariner suggests the prosport 20+. (Will control 3)put the house batteries 
> on it use the prospprt 12 to maintain the starter battery. 
> My biggest user would be the norcold refrig. Other than standard radio and 
> lites.
> My question..prosport 20+ , another brand or another way
> Jim schwartz
> SEA YA!
> 38LF 
> washington nc 
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger

[Edward Levert via CnC-List]

On Saturday, November 12, 2016, Mitchell's via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Edd, Change your dilithium crystals!
> But seriously, lots of good advice, I would also consider a good quality
> multi meter that you can trust for accurate voltage. I have an Ideal
> digital multi meter that also measures AC & DC amps that you clamp on a
> single wire. It wasn't expensive and I use it everywhere. I guess I don't
> trust all the gadgets we have on board and some of the old equipment is non
> digital. You can use it for continuity and other diagnostics. Nigel
> Calder's book on marine electrical is worth a look if you don't have it. He
> simplifies it, my favourite tool is a hammer and vice grips run a close
> second!
> Len
> 89 37+ Crazy Legs
> Midland On.
>
> Sent from my mobile device.
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
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Re: Stus-List battery charger

[John Conklin via CnC-List]

Mount one ! It’s one of the easiest  DIY jobs of the many boat projects, I  
just installed a  nauticpro  love it  !

John Conklin
S/V Halcyon
S/V Heartbeat
www.flirtingwithfire.com


On Jan 16, 2020, at 8:20 PM, John and Maryann Read via CnC-List 
 wrote:


Our ancient deep cycle charger died so in the market for a new one.  Use it 
only to top off group 27 batteries in winter and spring before launch.  Boat 
lives on a mooring, minimal electronics on board, normal engine running is 
typically enough to keep charged during the season.  Do not intend to permanent 
mount in boat. Portable, multi stage, 1 bank nothing fancy is just fine.  
Internet seems to favor BMK 12V 5amp  
https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Maintainer-Detachable-Alligator-Waterproof/dp/B06XK7PM9F

Thoughts??


John and Maryann
Legacy III
1982 C&C 34
Noank, CT


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Re: Stus-List battery charger

[Bruce Whitmore via CnC-List]

Hi John,
I have a different take on things:
1).  Battery chargers should not be left connected unattended on a boat.  The 
acid can boil off, the battery can become hot and start a fire, etc.  It's just 
not good practice.  If you want to charge your batteries over the winter, 
either remove them and bring them home, or connect a more robust portable 
charger that will properly top off the batteries while you are working on the 
boat in the fall or spring.  The small trickle charger you showed a link to is, 
well...  Cheap.  Too cheap, and IMHO, not the right solution.

2).  If your 34 is anything like our old 27 MKIII, there is adequate space on 
the sliding companionway hatch to mount a small, thin solar panel.  Some (like 
the one on our old 27), are even robust enough to step on.  Then, add a small 
charge controller, ideally a MPPT version which are much more efficient than 
the PWM ones.  Finally, add a battery combiner that charges both the house and 
starting battery when a charge current exists (whether from the engine or solar 
panel).  You can then run on the #1 or #2 setting, knowing the other battery is 
charged and ready to start the engine.
The real benefit of going with the solar panel is that the batteries are kept 
charged all the time.  Even when the boat is on the hard.  All you then need to 
do is to keep an eye on the water in the batteries.  By so doing, the life of 
the batteries will be GREATLY extended (we normally got at least 5 years out of 
a set of batteries) and I always knew I had enough power.
My boat too, lived on a mooring in summer.  We ran a light load of electronics, 
a wheel autopilot, stereo, and a few lights.  We stayed on the boat every 
weekend.  We even had a small inverter we used to run a 24" flat panel TV 
mounted to the bulkhead which had an antenna and an integrated DVD player.  We 
didn't use it a lot, but it was nice to have when we were facing a rainy 
evening on the can.  

The solar panel, controller and combiner may cost you a couple hundred dollars, 
but you'll have peace of mind things are really charged and you won't spend as 
much on batteries.  

Worked for me for over 10 years,

Bruce Whitmore
1994 CYC 37/40+"Astralis"Madiera Beach, FL
(847) 404-5092 (mobile)
bwhitm...@sbcglobal.net
 

On Thursday, January 16, 2020, 8:20:17 PM EST, John and Maryann Read via 
CnC-List  wrote:  
 
 
Our ancient deep cycle charger died so in the market for a new one.  Use it 
only to top off group 27 batteries in winter and spring before launch.  Boat 
lives on a mooring, minimal electronics on board, normal engine running is 
typically enough to keep charged during the season.  Do not intend to permanent 
mount in boat. Portable, multi stage, 1 bank nothing fancy is just fine.  
Internet seems to favor BMK 12V 5amp  
https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Maintainer-Detachable-Alligator-Waterproof/dp/B06XK7PM9F

  

Thoughts??

  

  

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

  

  
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Re: Stus-List battery charger

[Bill Coleman via CnC-List]

I bot one of these

https://powerwerx.com/guest-2701a-battery-charger-maintainer

 

for a hybrid car that is left idle for many months at a time and the starter
battery would discharge within a month.

Also got one for a forklift that is rarely used, they work great, hook up to
the battery and just leave the cord hang out.

 

While you are on that site, you might also want one of these, it keeps
everyone happy.  https://powerwerx.com/usb-adapter-lightning-typec-micro

This was also well worth 30 bucks,
https://powerwerx.com/panel-dual-usb-quick-charge-qc30-blue

It actually does the Samsung fast-charge protocol.  It may also work with
other fast charge phones.

 

Bill Coleman

Erie PA

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of John and
Maryann Read via CnC-List
Sent: Thursday, January 16, 2020 8:22 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: John and Maryann Read
Subject: Stus-List battery charger

 

Our ancient deep cycle charger died so in the market for a new one.  Use it
only to top off group 27 batteries in winter and spring before launch.  Boat
lives on a mooring, minimal electronics on board, normal engine running is
typically enough to keep charged during the season.  Do not intend to
permanent mount in boat. Portable, multi stage, 1 bank nothing fancy is just
fine.  Internet seems to favor BMK 12V 5amp
https://www.amazon.com/BMK-Maintainer-Detachable-Alligator-Waterproof/dp/B06
XK7PM9F

 

Thoughts??

 

 

John and Maryann

Legacy III

1982 C&C 34

Noank, CT

 

 

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Re: Stus-List battery charger

[Joe Della Barba via CnC-List]

When I am on my mooring I have a 50 watt solar panel I put out. It does 
a great job keeping the batteries up.


Here is what I have:

https://www.amazon.com/Renogy-Monocrystalline-Efficiency-Charging-Applications/dp/B07GTH79JP/ref=sr_1_3?crid=1YHG5B6WOEU25&keywords=renogy+50+watt+solar+panel&qid=1579272135&sprefix=renogy+50+watt+sola%2Caps%2C148&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Morningstar-SG-4-SunGuard-Charge-Controller/dp/B000O3O0W2/ref=sr_1_2?crid=LEY8OPSIU151&keywords=morningstar+solar+charge+controller&qid=1579272250&sprefix=morningstar+solar%2Caps%2C141&sr=8-2

Between both of them I have about $120 or so in this setup. I use it 
also cruising while at anchor. The panel is not mounted, I have it on a 
long cord and place it to get the most sun.


Joe Della Barba

Coquina

C&C 35 MK I   Kent Island MD USA



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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

If I had to guess the fuse is on the output or DC side of the charger.  You
might try taking it apart carefully to see if there is a fuse on the
inside.  Of course you need to make sure that your power coming in is good
and connections tight.  Likewise for the output.  Also make sure that the
battery is good.  Some chargers detect a bad battery and then turn off.

For new options, I have not been dissatisfied in the slightest with my
ProMariner pronautic 1260.  12v 60Amps.
http://www.promariner.com/en/63160 This is probably more amps than you need
but they make lower power models.
http://www.promariner.com/en/products/dry-mount-chargers
I replaced a 40amp zantrex trucharge with a 60amp and both died nearly
right out of the box.  I've since had no trouble with the ProMariner for
over 5 years.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, May 5, 2017, 9:46 PM robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My old Guest Pro Battery Charger Model 2815 seems to have hit the
> dustit was working yesterday but today it was notno charge going
> to batteries and no lights on on the charger'red' when it is
> charging 'green' when in float mode.  There is an exterior fuse which I
> checked and it looks finemaybe I should replace it just to be sure.
> I have no idea how old this device is or how long they are supposed to
> last.
>
> Is there anything else I could check?
>
> However, if it has simply 'expired', any suggestions on what I might
> replace it with?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[robert via CnC-List]

Josh:

Thanks.I looked up the charger on Google and found a manual, not a 
good one, but one that said may be it could be one of two fuses on the 
inside of the chargerto take the cover off and check the fuses.
It also said the charger won't work if one or both of the batteries are 
badboth batteries are showing 12.5V.  It also said to remove the DC 
negative on the battery, reapply the AC and see if the green light comes on.


Will try these things tomorrow.if no luck, there will be a new 
charger.  Will update.


Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 - 84
Halifax, N.S.

On 2017-05-05 10:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
If I had to guess the fuse is on the output or DC side of the 
charger.  You might try taking it apart carefully to see if there is a 
fuse on the inside.  Of course you need to make sure that your power 
coming in is good and connections tight.  Likewise for the output.  
Also make sure that the battery is good.  Some chargers detect a bad 
battery and then turn off.


For new options, I have not been dissatisfied in the slightest with my 
ProMariner pronautic 1260.  12v 60Amps.
http://www.promariner.com/en/63160 This is probably more amps than you 
need but they make lower power models. 
http://www.promariner.com/en/products/dry-mount-chargers
I replaced a 40amp zantrex trucharge with a 60amp and both died nearly 
right out of the box.  I've since had no trouble with the ProMariner 
for over 5 years.


Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD

On Fri, May 5, 2017, 9:46 PM robert via CnC-List 
mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:


My old Guest Pro Battery Charger Model 2815 seems to have hit the
dustit was working yesterday but today it was notno charge
going
to batteries and no lights on on the charger'red' when it is
charging 'green' when in float mode.  There is an exterior fuse
which I
checked and it looks finemaybe I should replace it just to be
sure.
I have no idea how old this device is or how long they are
supposed to last.

Is there anything else I could check?

However, if it has simply 'expired', any suggestions on what I might
replace it with?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.


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https://www.paypal.me/stumurray

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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[Dennis C. via CnC-List]

Failing repair, Promariner, Mastervolt and Blue Sea all make good
chargers.  Don't mind Guest chargers.

Have not had good luck with Xantrex TrueCharge 2's.

Dennis C.


On Fri, May 5, 2017 at 9:15 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> Josh:
>
> Thanks.I looked up the charger on Google and found a manual, not a
> good one, but one that said may be it could be one of two fuses on the
> inside of the chargerto take the cover off and check the fuses.It
> also said the charger won't work if one or both of the batteries are
> badboth batteries are showing 12.5V.  It also said to remove the DC
> negative on the battery, reapply the AC and see if the green light comes on.
>
> Will try these things tomorrow.if no luck, there will be a new
> charger.  Will update.
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 - 84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
> On 2017-05-05 10:59 PM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List wrote:
>
> If I had to guess the fuse is on the output or DC side of the charger.
> You might try taking it apart carefully to see if there is a fuse on the
> inside.  Of course you need to make sure that your power coming in is good
> and connections tight.  Likewise for the output.  Also make sure that the
> battery is good.  Some chargers detect a bad battery and then turn off.
>
> For new options, I have not been dissatisfied in the slightest with my
> ProMariner pronautic 1260.  12v 60Amps.
> http://www.promariner.com/en/63160 This is probably more amps than you
> need but they make lower power models. http://www.promariner.com/en/
> products/dry-mount-chargers
> I replaced a 40amp zantrex trucharge with a 60amp and both died nearly
> right out of the box.  I've since had no trouble with the ProMariner for
> over 5 years.
>
> Josh Muckley
> S/V Sea Hawk
> 1989 C&C 37+
> Solomons, MD
>
> On Fri, May 5, 2017, 9:46 PM robert via CnC-List 
> wrote:
>
>> My old Guest Pro Battery Charger Model 2815 seems to have hit the
>> dustit was working yesterday but today it was notno charge going
>> to batteries and no lights on on the charger'red' when it is
>> charging 'green' when in float mode.  There is an exterior fuse which I
>> checked and it looks finemaybe I should replace it just to be sure.
>> I have no idea how old this device is or how long they are supposed to
>> last.
>>
>> Is there anything else I could check?
>>
>> However, if it has simply 'expired', any suggestions on what I might
>> replace it with?
>>
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 -84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>>
>>
>> ___
>>
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
>> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>>
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[Gary Russell via CnC-List]

My Guest Pro 2815 died the same way.  I replaced mine with a ProMariner
Pronautic 1230P.
Gary
S/V Kaylarah
'90 C&C 37+
East Greenwich, RI, USA

~~~_/)~~


On Fri, May 5, 2017 at 9:45 PM, robert via CnC-List 
wrote:

> My old Guest Pro Battery Charger Model 2815 seems to have hit the
> dustit was working yesterday but today it was notno charge going to
> batteries and no lights on on the charger'red' when it is charging
> 'green' when in float mode.  There is an exterior fuse which I checked and
> it looks finemaybe I should replace it just to be sure.  I have no idea
> how old this device is or how long they are supposed to last.
>
> Is there anything else I could check?
>
> However, if it has simply 'expired', any suggestions on what I might
> replace it with?
>
> Rob Abbott
> AZURA
> C&C 32 -84
> Halifax, N.S.
>
>
> ___
>
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you
> wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
>
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make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[jcn--- via CnC-List]

I was looking at installing a Genius Gen2 20A unit.  I found some good reviews 
on it.  Anyone have experience with this one?
James 
Flamingo IV
'71 C&C 35
Lake of the Woods, Ontario

Sent from my iPad

> On May 6, 2017, at 5:56 AM, Gary Russell via CnC-List  
> wrote:
> 
> My Guest Pro 2815 died the same way.  I replaced mine with a ProMariner 
> Pronautic 1230P.
> Gary
> S/V Kaylarah
> '90 C&C 37+
> East Greenwich, RI, USA
> 
> ~~~_/)~~
> 
> 
>> On Fri, May 5, 2017 at 9:45 PM, robert via CnC-List  
>> wrote:
>> My old Guest Pro Battery Charger Model 2815 seems to have hit the dustit 
>> was working yesterday but today it was notno charge going to batteries 
>> and no lights on on the charger'red' when it is charging 'green' when in 
>> float mode.  There is an exterior fuse which I checked and it looks 
>> finemaybe I should replace it just to be sure.  I have no idea how old 
>> this device is or how long they are supposed to last.
>> 
>> Is there anything else I could check?
>> 
>> However, if it has simply 'expired', any suggestions on what I might replace 
>> it with?
>> 
>> Rob Abbott
>> AZURA
>> C&C 32 -84
>> Halifax, N.S.
>> 
>> 
>> ___
>> 
>> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
>> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
>> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
>> 
>> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
> 
> ___
> 
> This list is supported by the generous donations of our members. If you wish 
> to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to:  
> https://www.paypal.me/stumurray
> 
> All Contributions are greatly appreciated!
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List]

I had two Guest chargers on previous boats that similarly just died.  On my 
current boat I installed a Charles 3-bank (I think it's 30 amp) "smart" 
charger.  It was expensive, but is robust.  I haven't had any issues since I 
installed it several years ago.


-Original Message- 
From: robert via CnC-List

Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 9:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Battery Charger

My old Guest Pro Battery Charger Model 2815 seems to have hit the
dustit was working yesterday but today it was notno charge going
to batteries and no lights on on the charger'red' when it is
charging 'green' when in float mode.  There is an exterior fuse which I
checked and it looks finemaybe I should replace it just to be sure.
I have no idea how old this device is or how long they are supposed to last.

Is there anything else I could check?

However, if it has simply 'expired', any suggestions on what I might
replace it with?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.


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to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger

[james via CnC-List]

I really like my Charles 30 amp. very robust.

James

C&C 38 1976

Oriental, NC


On 5/6/2017 8:45 AM, Matthew L. Wolford via CnC-List wrote:
I had two Guest chargers on previous boats that similarly just died.  
On my current boat I installed a Charles 3-bank (I think it's 30 amp) 
"smart" charger.  It was expensive, but is robust.  I haven't had any 
issues since I installed it several years ago.


-Original Message- From: robert via CnC-List
Sent: Friday, May 05, 2017 9:45 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Cc: robert
Subject: Stus-List Battery Charger

My old Guest Pro Battery Charger Model 2815 seems to have hit the
dustit was working yesterday but today it was notno charge going
to batteries and no lights on on the charger'red' when it is
charging 'green' when in float mode.  There is an exterior fuse which I
checked and it looks finemaybe I should replace it just to be sure.
I have no idea how old this device is or how long they are supposed to 
last.


Is there anything else I could check?

However, if it has simply 'expired', any suggestions on what I might
replace it with?

Rob Abbott
AZURA
C&C 32 -84
Halifax, N.S.


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you wish to make a contribution to offset our costs, please go to: 
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Briard6]

Cursing full time in the  spring...???
 
 
In a message dated 12/16/2013 3:27:30 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
cpt.b...@gmail.com writes:


I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep  2 
12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend  sailor 
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
Thanks.


Capt, Curt  


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service  and discipline, 
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas  Monsarrat




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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Hoyt, Mike]

I curse all year round



From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of
Curtis
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 4:27 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?



I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep
2 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend
sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
Thanks.

Capt, Curt  

-- 
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Frederick G Street]

On Dec 16, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Curtis  wrote:

> I am a weekend sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 
> 2018.

 Curt — does that mean you’ll be involved in lots of messy boat projects?   :^)

Take a look at the ProMariner chargers — I’d recommend a minimum 20-amp like 
this: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289965&id=1512392

You could go to 40-amp, but that might be overkill for your battery bank: 
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289967&id=1512432

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

Join the gang!

Rich

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 16:27, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> I am a weekend sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 
> 2018.

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Josh Muckley]

For built in chargers I've had a real bad expierience with 2 brand new
xantrex chargers.  I changed to the ProNautiP and haven't had ANY
problems.  The one I bought was a 60amp and could charge 3 different
batteries at the same time.  Set it up for AGM, Gel, Flooded...  $600.  It
doesn't look like it is available any more but the 50 and 30 amp are.
30amp= ProNautic1230P = $500.

I also had a real good expierience with a 40amp Stanley portable I got from
Lowes.  $100.  When the second xantrex died the Stanley got me through the
delivery and I still use it for all types of 12V battery projects.  It also
has an engine start mode, battery recondition, and alternator test modes.

Maximize your charging current but don't exceed the rate for the capacity
of your batteries.  If you pull in late for a night at a marina you want to
ensure that the batteries are full charged for an early departure.  I have
even pulled in for dinner and then anchored out.

If I recall, flooded wet cells are limited to 25% of their rated capacity,
gel = 30%, AGM = 40%.  So from the sounds of it you probably have about
200A/hr total capacity so you could go as large as a 50 amp charger.  This
would ensure you could recharge in about 4 hours.  Also bear in mind that
in order to prolong the life of you batteries you should avoid discharging
more than 50% or below about 11.7v no load voltage.  With only two
batteries, it would be smart to keep them separated into a starting and
house battery.  This ensures that your house loads don't jeopardize your
ability to start the engine.

All of this being said I've actually found that my time motoring to the
slip and anchorage were often sufficient to keep me topped off.  Your stock
alternator is probably 30-50amps.  You might just keep your costs down and
use a portable till you start cruising full time.

Good luck.
Josh Muckley
On Dec 16, 2013 3:27 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:

>
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2
> 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
>
> Capt, Curt
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Josh Muckley]

ProNautiP = ProMariner
On Dec 16, 2013 4:18 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> For built in chargers I've had a real bad expierience with 2 brand new
> xantrex chargers.  I changed to the ProNautiP and haven't had ANY
> problems.  The one I bought was a 60amp and could charge 3 different
> batteries at the same time.  Set it up for AGM, Gel, Flooded...  $600.  It
> doesn't look like it is available any more but the 50 and 30 amp are.
> 30amp= ProNautic1230P = $500.
>
> I also had a real good expierience with a 40amp Stanley portable I got
> from Lowes.  $100.  When the second xantrex died the Stanley got me through
> the delivery and I still use it for all types of 12V battery projects.  It
> also has an engine start mode, battery recondition, and alternator test
> modes.
>
> Maximize your charging current but don't exceed the rate for the capacity
> of your batteries.  If you pull in late for a night at a marina you want to
> ensure that the batteries are full charged for an early departure.  I have
> even pulled in for dinner and then anchored out.
>
> If I recall, flooded wet cells are limited to 25% of their rated capacity,
> gel = 30%, AGM = 40%.  So from the sounds of it you probably have about
> 200A/hr total capacity so you could go as large as a 50 amp charger.  This
> would ensure you could recharge in about 4 hours.  Also bear in mind that
> in order to prolong the life of you batteries you should avoid discharging
> more than 50% or below about 11.7v no load voltage.  With only two
> batteries, it would be smart to keep them separated into a starting and
> house battery.  This ensures that your house loads don't jeopardize your
> ability to start the engine.
>
> All of this being said I've actually found that my time motoring to the
> slip and anchorage were often sufficient to keep me topped off.  Your stock
> alternator is probably 30-50amps.  You might just keep your costs down and
> use a portable till you start cruising full time.
>
> Good luck.
> Josh Muckley
> On Dec 16, 2013 3:27 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>
>>
>> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep
>> 2 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend
>> sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Capt, Curt
>>
>> --
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Joel Aronson]

Curtis,

If I were cruising full time I would consider adding a 3rd battery.  You
might want a charger that can handle where you expect to be in 5 years in
terms of batteries.  Chances are the ones you have now will have been
replaced by 2018.
I've are read on SailNet that the new Xantrex are trouble - FWIW.

Joel


On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 4:20 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> ProNautiP = ProMariner
> On Dec 16, 2013 4:18 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:
>
>> For built in chargers I've had a real bad expierience with 2 brand new
>> xantrex chargers.  I changed to the ProNautiP and haven't had ANY
>> problems.  The one I bought was a 60amp and could charge 3 different
>> batteries at the same time.  Set it up for AGM, Gel, Flooded...  $600.  It
>> doesn't look like it is available any more but the 50 and 30 amp are.
>> 30amp= ProNautic1230P = $500.
>>
>> I also had a real good expierience with a 40amp Stanley portable I got
>> from Lowes.  $100.  When the second xantrex died the Stanley got me through
>> the delivery and I still use it for all types of 12V battery projects.  It
>> also has an engine start mode, battery recondition, and alternator test
>> modes.
>>
>> Maximize your charging current but don't exceed the rate for the capacity
>> of your batteries.  If you pull in late for a night at a marina you want to
>> ensure that the batteries are full charged for an early departure.  I have
>> even pulled in for dinner and then anchored out.
>>
>> If I recall, flooded wet cells are limited to 25% of their rated
>> capacity, gel = 30%, AGM = 40%.  So from the sounds of it you probably have
>> about 200A/hr total capacity so you could go as large as a 50 amp charger.
>> This would ensure you could recharge in about 4 hours.  Also bear in mind
>> that in order to prolong the life of you batteries you should avoid
>> discharging more than 50% or below about 11.7v no load voltage.  With only
>> two batteries, it would be smart to keep them separated into a starting and
>> house battery.  This ensures that your house loads don't jeopardize your
>> ability to start the engine.
>>
>> All of this being said I've actually found that my time motoring to the
>> slip and anchorage were often sufficient to keep me topped off.  Your stock
>> alternator is probably 30-50amps.  You might just keep your costs down and
>> use a portable till you start cruising full time.
>>
>> Good luck.
>> Josh Muckley
>> On Dec 16, 2013 3:27 PM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep
>>> 2 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>>> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend
>>> sailor that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Capt, Curt
>>>
>>> --
>>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>>
>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Jake Brodersen]

Curtis,

 

I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring
and a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just
over 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different. 

 

Jake

 

Jake Brodersen

"Midnight Mistress"

C&C 35 Mk-III

Hampton Va

 

cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 




I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2
12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.

Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.

Thanks.

 

Capt, Curt  

 

-- 
"Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

CW,
I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
be headed south "of Course"
Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
ready for cruising.
Thanx for the advise guys.
Cheers



On Mon, Dec 16, 2013 at 6:15 PM, Jake Brodersen wrote:

> Curtis,
>
>
>
> I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring
> and a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just
> over 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> *Jake Brodersen*
>
> *“Midnight Mistress”*
>
> *C&C 35 Mk-III*
>
> *Hampton Va*
>
>
>
> [image: cid:D1BF9853-22F7-47FB-86F2-4115CE0BAF2F]
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> Curtis
> *Sent:* Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
> *To:* CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
>
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2
> 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>
> Thanks.
>
>
>
> Capt, Curt
>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
<>___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Joe Della Barba]

I have the old TruCharge 20 amp unit.  Works fine.  Not the same company really 
as the new ones 

Sent from my iPhone

On Dec 16, 2013, at 6:15 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:

> Curtis,
>  
> I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
> a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 
> 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton Va
>  
> 
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>  
> 
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
> volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
>  
> Capt, Curt  
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[jtsails]

  - Original Message - 
  From: Jake Brodersen 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 6:15 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


  Curtis,

   

  I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 12 
years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different. 

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  "Midnight Mistress"

  C&C 35 Mk-III

  Hampton Va

   



   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

   




  I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.

  Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.

  Thanks.

   

  Capt, Curt  

   

  -- 
  "Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat



--


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[jtsails]

I would also suggest looking Charles Industries chargers. Very well built units!
James
S/V Delaney
C&C 38
Oriental, NC
  - Original Message - 
  From: Jake Brodersen 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 6:15 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


  Curtis,

   

  I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 12 
years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different. 

   

  Jake

   

  Jake Brodersen

  "Midnight Mistress"

  C&C 35 Mk-III

  Hampton Va

   



   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
  Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
  To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

   




  I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.

  Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.

  Thanks.

   

  Capt, Curt  

   

  -- 
  "Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world." - Nicholas Monsarrat



--


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Dennis C.]

Xantrex used to be my choice. Apparently they're no longer reliable. 

Now I think my first choice would be Mastervolt.  

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> 
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
> volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
> 
> Capt, Curt  
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

One thing to consider is mounting location. Regardless of make or model, the 
biggest killers of chargers and inverters are lack of ventilation and exposure 
to water or high humidity. 

Rich

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 20:54, "Dennis C."  wrote:
> 
> Xantrex used to be my choice. Apparently they're no longer reliable. 
> 
> Now I think my first choice would be Mastervolt.  
> 
> Dennis C.
> Touché 35-1 #83
> Mandeville, LA
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Dec 16, 2013, at 2:27 PM, Curtis  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 
>> 12 volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
>> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
>> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
>> Thanks.
>> 
>> Capt, Curt  
>> 
>> -- 
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
>> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Dennis C.]

I also have a Xantrex Truecharge 20+.  Very reliable.

However, The key here is Xantrex vs Xantrex 2.  If it's a "2", run away.  Not 
the same by any means. 

Dennis C.
Touché 35-1 #83
Mandeville, LA

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 16, 2013, at 5:15 PM, "Jake Brodersen"  wrote:
> 
> Curtis,
>  
> I have a Xantrex 20+.  It charges two batteries and has remote monitoring and 
> a battery temperature sensor.  Mine has been in continuous use for just over 
> 12 years with no issues.  The newer ones may be different.
>  
> Jake
>  
> Jake Brodersen
> “Midnight Mistress”
> C&C 35 Mk-III
> Hampton Va
>  
> 
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 3:27 PM
> To: CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>  
> 
> I want to replace the OEM battery charger on the East Coast Lady. I keep 2 12 
> volt Auto-zone marine deep cycle battery's.
> Ant recommendations on a charger or charging system. I am a weekend sailor 
> that will move to cursing full time in the spring of 2018.
> Thanks.
>  
> Capt, Curt  
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Jake Brodersen]

Curtis,

 

A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
price.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

CW,

I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will be
headed south "of Course"

Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
ready for cruising.

Thanx for the advise guys. 

Cheers

 

___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.




On 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> Curtis,
>
>
>
> A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
> charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
> cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
> your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
> will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
> price.
>
>
>
> Jake
>
>
>
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> CW,
>
> I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
> here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
> be
> headed south "of Course"
>
> Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
> replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
> ready for cruising.
>
> Thanx for the advise guys.
>
> Cheers
>
>
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Wally Bryant]

I recently installed a ProMariner to replace my failed Xantrex Freedom 
charger.  I really like the new solid state units, and so far no problems.


BTW, if anyone replaces an old Freedom Marine unit, I'd recommend taking 
the cover off and removing the integral Echo Charger(s.) It's the same 
as the stand alone unit, without the cover, and has the same wire harness.


Wal

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Richard N. Bush]

Curtis, where did you buy the charger unit? approximate cost? Thanks


Richard
1985 37; on the hard; an waitin' for launch

Richard N. Bush Law Offices 
2950 Breckenridge Lane, Suite 9
Louisville, Kentucky 40220 
502-584-7255



-Original Message-
From: Curtis 
To: cnc-list 
Sent: Tue, Dec 17, 2013 9:47 am
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
his is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
ender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
attery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
ffects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
he charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
ehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
onnected long term.
I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.


n 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
 Curtis,



 A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
 charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
 cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
 your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
 will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
 price.



 Jake



 From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
 Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
 To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
 Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?



 CW,

 I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
 here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
 be
 headed south "of Course"

 Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
 replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
 ready for cruising.

 Thanx for the advise guys.

 Cheers





- 
Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
hould really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
___
his List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
ttp://www.cncphotoalbum.com
nc-l...@cnc-list.com

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Bill Bina]

Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing 
will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.


Bill Bina

On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:

After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.




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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128

Sorry I posted the wrong model.


Wal-mart
$66.48


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:

> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>
>> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>>
>> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
>> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
>> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
>> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
>> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
>> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
>> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
>> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
>> connected long term.
>>
>> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
>>
>>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>



-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

Curtis:

That battery charge will not do much at all for you. It's an 8 V unit And you 
need a 12 V charger. 


Rich







On Dec 17, 2013, at 10:47 AM, Curtis  wrote:

After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.




On 12/17/13, Jake Brodersen  wrote:
> Curtis,
> 
> 
> 
> A quality portable charger may suit your purposes well.  Make sure that the
> charging regimen includes three stages (bulk, absorption, and float).  A
> cheap car charger is not intended to be run 24/7 and will eventually damage
> your batteries.  Cheap chargers will not taper off the charging voltage and
> will eventually boil the batteries dry.  A good charger is well worth the
> price.
> 
> 
> 
> Jake
> 
> 
> 
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Monday, December 16, 2013 7:18 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
> 
> 
> 
> CW,
> 
> I live in South Carolina within a stones throw to Savannah GA. It was 69
> here today, So, yea I will start sailing in Feb or March 2018. But I will
> be
> headed south "of Course"
> 
> Thanks for the advise. I might just do keep a portable handy instead of
> replacing the old one.  I was justing trying to get the boat fixed up and
> ready for cruising.
> 
> Thanx for the advise guys.
> 
> Cheers
> 
> 
> 
> 


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

That's work as a maintainer over winter.

Rich







On Dec 17, 2013, at 11:29 AM, Curtis  wrote:

Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128


Sorry I posted the wrong model.


Wal-mart
$66.48


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt charger. 
You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will barely charge 
an 8 volt motorcycle battery.

Bill Bina


On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
(1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
connected long term.

I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.



___
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-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat

___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Josh Muckley]

Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
different answers.

For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.

Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.
This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic
corrosion.

What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?

Josh Muckley
On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:

> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>
> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>
>
> Wal-mart
> $66.48
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
>
>> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
>> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
>> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>>
>> Bill Bina
>>
>>
>> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>>
>>> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>>>
>>> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
>>> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
>>> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
>>> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
>>> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
>>> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
>>> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
>>> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
>>> connected long term.
>>>
>>> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
>>>
>>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>
>
>
> --
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post
I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for
some extended cruising.
I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me
a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
Sorry for the confusion.





On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
> different answers.
>
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
> and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
> effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
>
> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the
> batteries.  This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and
> galvanic corrosion.
>
> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>
> Josh Muckley
> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>
>> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>>
>> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>>
>>
>> Wal-mart
>> $66.48
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina wrote:
>>
>>> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
>>> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
>>> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>>>
>>> Bill Bina
>>>
>>>
>>> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>>>
 After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

 Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
 This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
 Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
 battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
 effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
 (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
 the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
 vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
 connected long term.

 I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.


>>>
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>
>>
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>
>>
> ___
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

There will be plenty of new units on the market by 2018. 

Rich

> On Dec 17, 2013, at 14:15, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I 
> was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while 
> sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for 
> some extended cruising. 
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. 
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a 
> charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 
> Sorry for the confusion.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
>> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is 
>> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of 
>> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had 
>> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self 
>> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically 
>> different answers. 
>> 
>> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent 
>> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would 
>> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning 
>> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley, 
>> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, 
>> and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more 
>> effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. 
>> 
>> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.  
>> This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic 
>> corrosion.
>> 
>> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>> 
>> Josh Muckley
>> 
>>> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
>>> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Wal-mart
>>> $66.48
>>> 
>>> 
 On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
 Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
 charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will 
 barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
 
 Bill Bina
 
 
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
> 
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> connected long term.
> 
> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
 
 
 ___
 This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
 http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
 CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, 
>>> should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
>>> 
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>> 
>> ___
>> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
>> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
>> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

Just trying to get all the systems up and working with bugs shook out be
for then. I also would like to spend the money while I have it.


On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 2:37 PM, dwight  wrote:

> agree
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> Bina
> Sent: December 17, 2013 11:00 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing
> will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>
> Bill Bina
>
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> > After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
> >
> > Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> > This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> > Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> > battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> > effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> > (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> > the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> > vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> > connected long term.
> >
> > I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
> >
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6428 - Release Date: 12/17/13
>
>
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>



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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[dwight]

agree

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Bill Bina
Sent: December 17, 2013 11:00 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing 
will barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.

Bill Bina

On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> connected long term.
>
> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
>


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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6428 - Release Date: 12/17/13


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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Jake Brodersen]

Yes, this is the one keeping my Harley warm during the cold winter.

 

Jake

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 10:40 AM
To: cnc-list Cnc-List
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

That's work as a maintainer over winter.

 

Rich







 

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rick Brass]

Curtis;

 

At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
horse.

 

If your intent is extended cruising - particularly offshore cruising where
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
every day - you will first need to think about the systems you have on board
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar?
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio
or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.

 

Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my
house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That
gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for 2 days between
charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting battery as a second
bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to power the head and the
anchor windlass.

 

The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I have
an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a solar
charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to install
an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I'm hooked to shore
power or running the engine.

 

To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time - which is OK
when I'm traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.

 

As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you will
be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have installed
for cruising.

 

You said you had an "OEM" battery charger installed. Probably not really
OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on
the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and
worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post
I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for
some extended cruising. 

I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a
charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 

Sorry for the confusion.

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
different answers.  

For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others. 

Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.
This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic
corrosion.

What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?

Josh Muckley

On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:


Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128


 

Sorry I posted the wrong model.

 

 

Wal-mart

$66.48

 

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:

Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.

Bill Bina



On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:

After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night

Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
This is a very popular 

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[bobmor99 .]

For the past 2-3 years I've had a Guest 10 Amp charger keeping a pair of
lead acid batteries topped up at the dock. It too is a solid state design
which is great; if not bullet-proof, for sure waterproof.

http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289963&id=1450046

Bob M
Ox 33-1
Jax, FL

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:41 AM, Wally Bryant  wrote:

>   I really like the new solid state units, and so far no problems.
>
>
> Wal
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

harger installed. Probably not really OEM, 
> but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on the 
> other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and worry 
> about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>  
>  
> Rick Brass
> Washington, NC
>  
>  
>  
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
> Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>  
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I 
> was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while 
> sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for 
> some extended cruising. 
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. 
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a 
> charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 
> Sorry for the confusion.
>  
>  
>  
>  
> 
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is 
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of 
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had 
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self 
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically 
> different answers. 
> 
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent 
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have 
> possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning 
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley, 
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and 
> boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective 
> de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
> 
> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.  
> This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic 
> corrosion.
> 
> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
> 
> Josh Muckley
> 
> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
> Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
>  
> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>  
>  
> Wal-mart
> $66.48
>  
> 
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt 
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will 
> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
> 
> Bill Bina
> 
> 
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
> 
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick disconnect harness
> (1 of each ring ends and alligator clips included) allows you to leave
> the charger wiring attached to the battery while operating the
> vehicle. Battery Tender Plus will not overcharge or boil battery when
> connected long term.
> 
> I hope it will keep them topped off when I'm not there.
> 
>  
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> 
> 
> 
>  
> -- 
> “Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline, should 
> really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
> 
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended
> periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH
> capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for
> 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting
> battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to
> power the head and the anchor windlass.
>
>
>
> The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I
> have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a
> solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to
> install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I’m hooked
> to shore power or running the engine.
>
>
>
> To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
> alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time – which is OK
> when I’m traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
> to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
> generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.
>
>
>
> As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you
> will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have
> installed for cruising.
>
>
>
> You said you had an “OEM” battery charger installed. Probably not really
> OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money
> on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries,
> and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List 
> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
> *On Behalf Of *Curtis
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first
> post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged
> while sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off
> for some extended cruising.
>
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me
> a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
>
> Sorry for the confusion.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
> different answers.
>
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto,
> and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more
> effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
>
> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the
> batteries.  This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and
> galvanic corrosion.
>
> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>
> Josh Muckley
>
> On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:
> *Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128*
>
>
>
> Sorry I posted the wrong model.
>
>
>
>
>
> Wal-mart
>
> $66.48
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Bill Bina  wrote:
>
> Hopefully you can return it. You need a 12 volt charger, not an 8 volt
> charger. You also need substantially more than 1.25 amps. This thing will
> barely charge an 8 volt motorcycle battery.
>
> Bill Bina
>
>
>
> On 12/17/2013 9:47 AM, Curtis wrote:
>
> After much study and review I purchased a portable charger last night
>
> Battery Tender Plus 8v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT8v021-0152
> This is a very popular 8 volt unit for battery storage. The Battery
> Tender Plus is a 1.25 amp battery charger designed to fully charge a
> battery and maintain it at proper storage voltage without the damaging
> effects caused by trickle chargers. The E-Z quick d

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Joel Aronson]

Nigel Calders book has a list.

Joel

On Wednesday, December 18, 2013, Curtis wrote:

> Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
> principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep in
> mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that before
> from people starting out. HAHAh. Well wet me see what it looks like.
>
> 1) AM/FM Radio   *4 hr a week*
>
> 2) ST4000 AUTO helm *8 hrs a day*
>
> 3) Garmin echo50s (GPS) *8 hrs a day*
>
> 4) Bow and stern running lights   *8 hrs a week*
>
> 5) Spreader lights  *Almost never*
>
> 6) Mast head anchor light *(12 hours a day) LED*
>
> 7) Cabin lights *(8 hours a day) LED*
>
> 8) VHF Radio “Hand Held” *8 hrs a day*
>
> 9) VHF fixed mount *8 hrs a day scan mode weather alert*
>
> 10) Ray marine gauge “ Depth” *8 hrs a day*
>
> 11) Ray marine gauge “Wind” *8 hrs a day*
>
> 12 Ray marine gauges
>
> 13) IPOD for movies *2 hrs a day*
>
> 14) Cell phones 2 “1 droid”  “1 I phone”
>
>
>
> We have no refrigerator
>
> We have no t/v at this time
>
> Toilet is a manual
>
> In doing my research hoping to find a Energy Budget work sheet in excel
> format. This way I could plug in the cost of each of my power using pieces
> and see what it comes up with.
>
>
> On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 7:37 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:
>
> And to increase the presumptuous factor:
>
> The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
> boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
> voltage output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined
> for use in small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that
> application. For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick
> notes, radar and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods
> between charges, those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and
> certainly not as efficient and appropriate as higher power units with multi
> stage regulators.
>
> For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical
> system should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system.
> This will involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can
> be fitted, taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of
> pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works
> well. There are a number of external regulators available that should be
> considered for installation as part of the new system. A new alternator
> with a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time
> needed to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators
> and solar panels are important for long range travels as well to further
> reduce the dependency on the engine.
>
> For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of
> batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the
> fact that a 50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly
> linear rate which will drop significantly as the state of charge nears
> 100%. Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long time compared to the
> first 30%. This will vary depending on battery type and condition, so my
> 30% figure is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.
>
> A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to
> sustain loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices
> operating while the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to
> replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use
> should be chosen. There are lots of good marine chargers on the market.
>
> I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input
> from the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should
> be avoided.
>
> As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is
> complex.
>
> It's snowing again. G!
>
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO - LF38
> Halifax, NS
>
>
> On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:
>
> Curtis;
>
>
>
> At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
> horse.
>
>
>
> If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where
> you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
> every day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on
> board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw.
> Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment
> like radio or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a
> microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries.
>
>
>
> On
>
>

-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

need to think about the systems you
>> have on board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major
>> draw. Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for
>> entertainment like radio or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee
>> maker or a microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries.
>>
>>
>>
>> Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure
>> out how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put
>> them. My average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I
>> plan to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended
>> periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH
>> capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for
>> 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting
>> battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to
>> power the head and the anchor windlass.
>>
>>
>>
>> The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I
>> have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a
>> solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to
>> install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I’m hooked
>> to shore power or running the engine.
>>
>>
>>
>> To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
>> alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time – which is OK
>> when I’m traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
>> to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
>> generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.
>>
>>
>>
>> As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you
>> will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have
>> installed for cruising.
>>
>>
>>
>> You said you had an “OEM” battery charger installed. Probably not really
>> OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money
>> on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries,
>> and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Rick Brass
>>
>> Washington, NC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> *From:* CnC-List 
>> [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]
>> *On Behalf Of *Curtis
>> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
>> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
>> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>>
>>
>>
>> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first
>> post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged
>> while sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off
>> for some extended cruising.
>>
>> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank
>> charger. This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will
>> give me a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
>>
>> Sorry for the confusion.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley 
>> wrote:
>>
>> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
>> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
>> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
>> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
>> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
>> different answers.
>>
>> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to
>> prevent over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I
>> would have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a
>> conditioning feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.
>> Stanley, Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big
>> box, auto, and boat stores.  I'm not convinced that the battery minder has
>> a more effective de-sulfating feature than any of the others.
>>
>> Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the
>> batteries.  This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and
>> galvanic corrosion.
>>
>> What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?
>>

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

I have one Curtis. I'll send it along later today. 

Rich

> On Dec 18, 2013, at 10:19, Curtis  wrote:
> 
> In doing my research hoping to find a Energy Budget work sheet in excel 
> format. This way I could plug in the cost of each of my power using pieces 
> and see what it comes up with.
___
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

Thanks'


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 9:32 AM, Rich Knowles  wrote:

> I have one Curtis. I'll send it along later today.
>
> Rich
>
> On Dec 18, 2013, at 10:19, Curtis  wrote:
>
> In doing my research hoping to find a Energy Budget work sheet in excel
> format. This way I could plug in the cost of each of my power using pieces
> and see what it comes up with.
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
“Sailors, with their built in sense of order, service and discipline,
should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
___
This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
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CnC-List@cnc-list.com

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[dwight]

Hi Rich

 

I am not sure what my alternator output rating is but my ammeter never shows
more than 60 and even that is not for long as it settles out to between 15
and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of steaming.  If I switch from
one battery bank to the other during steaming I can sometimes notice a
slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a bit) but even that is
momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6 volt deep cycle
batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24 deep
cycle.they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and I
run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember to
manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and
now can't remember which wires go where to reconnect it.Last season I left
the boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off
the fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power
left in the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added
insulation around the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my
start battery and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some
sailors use more power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like
a pretty high charge rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on the
cells?

 

 

  _  

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich
Knowles
Sent: December 18, 2013 8:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

And to increase the presumptuous factor:

 

The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small
boat engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single
voltage output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined
for use in small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that
application. For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick
notes, radar and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods
between charges, those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and
certainly not as efficient and appropriate as higher power units with multi
stage regulators. 

 

For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system
should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This
will involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be
fitted, taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of
pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well.
There are a number of external regulators available that should be
considered for installation as part of the new system. A new alternator with
a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time needed
to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators and solar
panels are important for long range travels as well to further reduce the
dependency on the engine. 

 

For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of
batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the
fact that a 50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly
linear rate which will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%.
Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first
30%. This will vary depending on battery type and condition, so my 30%
figure is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.

 

A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to
sustain loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices
operating while the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to
replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use
should be chosen. There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 

 

I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from
the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be
avoided. 

 

As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is
complex. 

 

It's snowing again. G!

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 





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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rick Brass]

Rich;

 

Thanks for the comments on the alternator. You’re right that generation 
capacity is an important consideration depending on how you cruise.

 

My cruising is coastal, along the ICW with engine on at least half the time, 
then long periods at anchor. I’ve decided that my engine alternator is 
sufficient when under weigh, but I hate to need to run the engine at all when 
at anchor. So I’ve invested in both Blue Sea and Link battery monitors to help 
me stretch the time between recharge at anchor, and contemplate solar and/or 
wind power installations to keep engine use down.

 

Maybe I won something in the lottery last night that will let me pay for it.

 

I have sympathy for your reaction to the snow. Winter Sucks! More than old 
sails.

 

Yesterday it was 67. Last night in the low 30s, going to 48 later today. 
They’re forecasting 80 on Saturday and Sunday and then back to 50 next week. I 
wish it would just even out to a nice steady 60-65. Then I could take down the 
Christmas lights on the boat and go sailing.

 

Rick Brass

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 7:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

And to increase the presumptuous factor:

 

The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small boat 
engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage output 
regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined for use in small 
motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that application. For our 
use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar and 
refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, those 
alternators are bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient and 
appropriate as higher power units with multi stage regulators. 

 

For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system 
should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This will 
involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, 
taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book into 
account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well. There are a number 
of external regulators available that should be considered for installation as 
part of the new system. A new alternator with a multi-step regulator will 
considerably reduce the engine run time needed to replenish the batteries. 
Other devices such as wind generators and solar panels are important for long 
range travels as well to further reduce the dependency on the engine. 

 

For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of batteries 
to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the fact that a 
50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly linear rate which 
will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%. Trying to achieve 
the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first 30%. This will vary 
depending on battery type and condition, so my 30% figure is somewhat 
arbitrary, but fairly realistic.

 

A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to sustain 
loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices operating while 
the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to replenish the 
batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use should be chosen. 
There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 

 

I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from 
the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be 
avoided. 

 

As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 

 

It's snowing again. G!

 

Rich Knowles

INDIGO - LF38

Halifax, NS

 


On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:

Curtis;

 

At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the horse.

 

If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where you 
will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries) every 
day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on board and how 
much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar? Autopilot? 
What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio or TV?  Small 
things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a shocking amount 
of power out of your batteries.

 

Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out 
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My 
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run 
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my house 
bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That gives 230 
usable AH (50% discharge) and s

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[David]

When I "re-alternatored" my boat with a smart charger etc. I sized the 
alternator so as to not put too much drag on the engine.  I sized my at 80 amp 
for a 33 hp diesel.  I estimate I lose 3hp when full on charging.  Any more, 
and you start losing, in my opinion, too much HP.

David F. Risch
1981 40-2
(401) 419-4650 (cell)


From: dwight...@gmail.com
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Date: Wed, 18 Dec 2013 10:38:57 -0400
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?























Hi Rich

 

I am not sure what my alternator output
rating is but my ammeter never shows more than 60 and even that is not for long
as it settles out to between 15 and 30 fairly quickly, like after a a minute of
steaming.  If I switch from one battery bank to the other during steaming
I can sometimes notice a slight drag on the engine (it seems to slow down a
bit) but even that is momentary (a second or 2).  My house bank is two, 6
volt deep cycle batteries connected in series and my start bank is one Group 24
deep cycle…they have been on the boat for 7 years continuous and have never let
me down.  I run an old 1720 Furuno radar when I need it (fog or dark) and
I run an Adler Barber in icebox refrigerator freezer.  I try to remember
to manually cycle the fridge on and off since I disconnected the thermostat and
now can’t remember which wires go where to reconnect it…Last season I left the
boat unattended on the mooring for about 5 days but I forgot to turn off the
fridge.  Much to my surprise after those 5 days there was still power left in
the battery and the fridge was still cold and I have no added insulation around
the ice box yet!!  I was able to start the engine from my start battery
and recharge my house bank from the engine. Probably some sailors use more
power on a regular basis than I do but 100 amps seems like a pretty high charge
rate.  Would a 100 amp charge rate not be hard on the cells?

 

 









From: CnC-List
[mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On
Behalf Of Rich Knowles

Sent: December 18, 2013 8:38 AM

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com

Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?



 



And to increase the
presumptuous factor:





 





The alternators that were
supplied as original equipment with most small boat engines until recently were
from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage output regulators. A good
percentage of the engines were destined for use in small motor vessels and
these alternators were adequate for that application. For our use, which sees
greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar and refrigeration, and
lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, those alternators are
bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient and appropriate as
higher power units with multi stage regulators. 





 





For sailing vessels, a
central component of optimizing the electrical system should be upgrading the
generating capacity of the charging system. This will involve replacing the
alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, taking physical 
restrictions,
drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book into account. For most 20-35 HP
engines, around 100A works well. There are a number of external regulators
available that should be considered for installation as part of the new system.
A new alternator with a multi-step regulator will considerably reduce the
engine run time needed to replenish the batteries. Other devices such as wind
generators and solar panels are important for long range travels as well to
further reduce the dependency on the engine. 





 





For calculation purposes,
I generally consider the usable capacity of batteries to be 30% rather than 50%
of rated capacity. This stems from the fact that a 50% discharged battery will
charge to around 80% at a fairly linear rate which will drop significantly as
the state of charge nears 100%. Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long
time compared to the first 30%. This will vary depending on battery type and
condition, so my 30% figure is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.





 





A shore power fed battery
charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to sustain loads from refrigeration,
lighting and entertainment devices operating while the boat is alongside, and
also provide enough power to replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit
designed for marine use should be chosen. There are lots of good marine
chargers on the market. 





 





I note that non-marine AC
chargers may not completely isolate the input from the output, a potentially
dangerous situation on the water, and should be avoided. 





 





As Rick notes, designing
an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 





 





It's snowing again.
G!





 





Rich Knowles





INDIGO - LF38





Halifax,
 NS









 























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Cn

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Steve Thomas]

Excellent comments Rich. 

I would add that one needs to confirm that the power take off available for 
driving a proposed larger alternator can handle the increased load. This is 
especially true for engines where the power take off is through a gear train, 
and not directly off one end of the crankshaft. In these circumstances it may 
not be just a question of how large a fraction of the engine's output do you 
want to direct to the alternator. The maximum load presented by the proposed 
alternator, plus the water pump load, must not exceed the power take off design 
limits. This is at least an issue with the Yanmar YSE, YSB, and YSM series of 
engines. I don't know if there are any other common engine with designs similar 
in that respect, but it is worth checking before going and an buying too large 
an alternator for a specific engine. Yes the specific engines I mentioned are 
smaller than 20-35 HP, but there are many of us that do have em. An alternator 
that can actually deliver 100 amps will need around 3 horsepower to drive it. 

Steve Thomas
C&C27 MKIII
Port Stanley, ON


-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 7:38 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


And to increase the presumptuous factor:


The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small boat 
engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage output 
regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined for use in small 
motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that application. For our 
use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar and 
refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, those 
alternators are bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient and 
appropriate as higher power units with multi stage regulators. 


For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system 
should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This will 
involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, 
taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book into 
account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well. There are a number 
of external regulators available that should be considered for installation as 
part of the new system. A new alternator with a multi-step regulator will 
considerably reduce the engine run time needed to replenish the batteries. 
Other devices such as wind generators and solar panels are important for long 
range travels as well to further reduce the dependency on the engine. 


For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of batteries 
to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the fact that a 
50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly linear rate which 
will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%. Trying to achieve 
the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first 30%. This will vary 
depending on battery type and condition, so my 30% figure is somewhat 
arbitrary, but fairly realistic.


A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to sustain 
loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices operating while 
the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to replenish the 
batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use should be chosen. 
There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 


I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from 
the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be 
avoided. 


As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 


It's snowing again. G!


Rich Knowles
INDIGO - LF38
Halifax, NS




On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:


  Curtis;



  At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the horse.



  If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where 
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries) 
every day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on board 
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar? 
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio or 
TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a 
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.



  Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out 
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My 
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run 
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my house 
bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 46

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rich Knowles]

The drive belt is as much a limiting factor as anything else. I've been using 
an adapted Delco 105A alternator for at least 12 years with no bad outcomes to 
my Yanmar 3QM30 other than a new belt every year or so. Also I seldom see the 
charge rate exceed 70A. 

Rich

> On Dec 18, 2013, at 11:18, Steve Thomas  wrote:
> 
> Excellent comments Rich.
>  
> I would add that one needs to confirm that the power take off available for 
> driving a proposed larger alternator can handle the increased load. This is 
> especially true for engines where the power take off is through a gear train, 
> and not directly off one end of the crankshaft. In these circumstances it may 
> not be just a question of how large a fraction of the engine's output do you 
> want to direct to the alternator. The  maximum load presented by the proposed 
> alternator, plus the water pump load, must not exceed the power take off 
> design limits. This is at least an issue with the Yanmar YSE, YSB, and YSM 
> series of engines. I don't know if there are any other common engine with 
> designs similar in that respect, but it is worth checking before going and an 
> buying too large an alternator  for a specific engine. Yes the specific 
> engines I mentioned are smaller than 20-35 HP, but there are many of us that 
> do have em. An alternator that can actually deliver 100 amps will need around 
> 3 horsepower to drive it.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON
>  
>  
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com]On Behalf Of Rich Knowles
> Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 7:38 AM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
> 
> And to increase the presumptuous factor:
> 
> The alternators that were supplied as original equipment with most small boat 
> engines until recently were from 35 - 55 A with internal, single voltage 
> output regulators. A good percentage of the engines were destined for use in 
> small motor vessels and these alternators were adequate for that application. 
> For our use, which sees greatly increased loads from, as Rick notes, radar 
> and refrigeration, and lengthy battery discharge periods between charges, 
> those alternators are bordering on inadequate, and certainly not as efficient 
> and appropriate as higher power units with multi stage regulators. 
> 
> For sailing vessels, a central component of optimizing the electrical system 
> should be upgrading the generating capacity of the charging system. This will 
> involve replacing the alternator with the largest unit that can be fitted, 
> taking physical restrictions, drive belt capacity and depth of pocket book 
> into account. For most 20-35 HP engines, around 100A works well. There are a 
> number of external regulators available that should be considered for 
> installation as part of the new system. A new alternator with a multi-step 
> regulator will considerably reduce the engine run time needed to replenish 
> the batteries. Other devices such as wind generators and solar panels are 
> important for long range travels as well to further reduce the dependency on 
> the engine. 
> 
> For calculation purposes, I generally consider the usable capacity of 
> batteries to be 30% rather than 50% of rated capacity. This stems from the 
> fact that a 50% discharged battery will charge to around 80% at a fairly 
> linear rate which will drop significantly as the state of charge nears 100%. 
> Trying to achieve the last 20% can take a long time compared to the first 
> 30%. This will vary depending on battery type and condition, so my 30% figure 
> is somewhat arbitrary, but fairly realistic.
> 
> A shore power fed battery charger from 20-40A will generally suffice to 
> sustain loads from refrigeration, lighting and entertainment devices 
> operating while the boat is alongside, and also provide enough power to 
> replenish the batteries. Again, a multi-step unit designed for marine use 
> should be chosen. There are lots of good marine chargers on the market. 
> 
> I note that non-marine AC chargers may not completely isolate the input from 
> the output, a potentially dangerous situation on the water, and should be 
> avoided. 
> 
> As Rick notes, designing an efficient, reliable electrical system is complex. 
> 
> It's snowing again. G!
> 
> Rich Knowles
> INDIGO - LF38
> Halifax, NS
> 
> 
>> On Dec 17, 2013, at 20:45, "Rick Brass"  wrote:
>> 
>> Curtis;
>> At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the 
>> horse.
>> If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where 
>> youwill not be using y

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Frederick G Street]

Also remember that putting a huge alternator on a diesel like ours can present 
excessive side-loading to the shaft bearings, reducing their life.  So try to 
size appropriately for your battery bank AND engine hp.  Going too big can be 
bad for your engine.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 18, 2013, at 9:18 AM, Steve Thomas  wrote:

> Excellent comments Rich.
>  
> I would add that one needs to confirm that the power take off available for 
> driving a proposed larger alternator can handle the increased load. This is 
> especially true for engines where the power take off is through a gear train, 
> and not directly off one end of the crankshaft. In these circumstances it may 
> not be just a question of how large a fraction of the engine's output do you 
> want to direct to the alternator. The maximum load presented by the proposed 
> alternator, plus the water pump load, must not exceed the power take off 
> design limits. This is at least an issue with the Yanmar YSE, YSB, and YSM 
> series of engines. I don't know if there are any other common engine with 
> designs similar in that respect, but it is worth checking before going and an 
> buying too large an alternator for a specific engine. Yes the specific 
> engines I mentioned are smaller than 20-35 HP, but there are many of us that 
> do have em. An alternator that can actually deliver 100 amps will need around 
> 3 horsepower to drive it.
>  
> Steve Thomas
> C&C27 MKIII
> Port Stanley, ON

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Della Barba, Joe]

To add to the mix, any Atomic-4 powered boat is running a 1:1 pulley ratio. 
This results in a max of around 60-80 amps even if you add a 500 amp alternator 
and no charging at all at idle. One project I have on the back burner is 
fabbing a bracket to run off a crank pulley and get a better ratio. Adding 
solar kind of put that back a bit – amazing how much good even 25 watts does.

Joe Della Barba
Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Gary Nylander]

Rick, I seem to remember that Curtis has a 30. He couldn't have near the needs 
you do on your 38 or he would be all batteries in that smaller boat.

Gary
  - Original Message - 
  From: Rick Brass 
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 
  Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:45 PM
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?


  Curtis;

   

  At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the horse.

   

  If your intent is extended cruising - particularly offshore cruising where 
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries) 
every day - you will first need to think about the systems you have on board 
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar? 
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio or 
TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a 
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.

   

  Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out 
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My 
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run 
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my house 
bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That gives 230 
usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for 2 days between charges. In 
addition I have a group 29 marine starting battery as a second bank, and a deep 
cycle group 24 under the v-berth to power the head and the anchor windlass.

   

  The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I have 
an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a solar 
charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to install an 
ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I'm hooked to shore power 
or running the engine.

   

  To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp 
alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time - which is OK when 
I'm traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan to 
install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind generator as 
well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.

   

  As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you will 
be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have installed for 
cruising.

   

  You said you had an "OEM" battery charger installed. Probably not really OEM, 
but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on the 
other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and worry 
about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.

   

   

  Rick Brass

  Washington, NC

   

   

   

  From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
  Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
  To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
  Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

   

  I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post I 
was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while 
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for some 
extended cruising. 

  I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger. 
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a 
charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 

  Sorry for the confusion.

   

   

   

   

  On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

  Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is 
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of capacity. 
 This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had any of us 
realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self discharging 
during winter storage you would have received drastically different answers.  

  For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent 
over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would have 
possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning feature.  
10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley, Schumacher, 
Vector all have similar units available at the big box, auto, and boat stores.  
I'm not convinced that the battery minder has a more effective de-sulfating 
feature than any of the others. 

  Many people prefer to occasionally visit the boat to top up the batteries.  
This eliminates the risks of overcharge, electical fire, and galvanic corrosion.

  What type of charger did you already have?  What was wrong with using it?

  Josh Muckley

  On Dec 17, 2013 10:29 AM, "Curtis"  wrote:

  Battery Tender Plus 12v 1.25 Amp 3 Stage Smart Charger BT-021-0128
   

  Sorry I posted the wrong model.

   

 

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

Yea My boat is small. No A/C no Refg / freezer no microwave. Ni Invert-er.
Just basic stuff.


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 10:55 AM, Gary Nylander wrote:

>  Rick, I seem to remember that Curtis has a 30. He couldn't have near the
> needs you do on your 38 or he would be all batteries in that smaller boat.
>
> Gary
>
> - Original Message -
> *From:* Rick Brass 
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:45 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>  Curtis;
>
>
>
> At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
> horse.
>
>
>
> If your intent is extended cruising – particularly offshore cruising where
> you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
> every day – you will first need to think about the systems you have on
> board and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw.
> Radar? Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment
> like radio or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a
> microwave draw a shocking amount of power out of your batteries.
>
>
>
> Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure
> out how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put
> them. My average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I
> plan to run refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended
> periods. So my house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH
> capacity. That gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for
> 2 days between charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting
> battery as a second bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to
> power the head and the anchor windlass.
>
>
>
> The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I
> have an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a
> solar charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to
> install an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I’m hooked
> to shore power or running the engine.
>
>
>
> To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
> alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time – which is OK
> when I’m traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
> to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
> generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.
>
>
>
> As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you
> will be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have
> installed for cruising.
>
>
>
> You said you had an “OEM” battery charger installed. Probably not really
> OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money
> on the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries,
> and worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.
>
>
>
>
>
> Rick Brass
>
> Washington, NC
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *From:* CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] *On Behalf Of *
> Curtis
> *Sent:* Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
> *To:* cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> *Subject:* Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
>
>
> I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first
> post I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged
> while sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off
> for some extended cruising.
>
> I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
> This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me
> a charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore.
>
> Sorry for the confusion.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:
>
> Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
> advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
> capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your purpose.  Had
> any of us realized that you simply wanted to keep the batteries from self
> discharging during winter storage you would have received drastically
> different answers.
>
> For ultra cheap $20 you can find 2amp smart chargers that cycle to prevent
> over charging.  If conditioning or de-sufating was the goal then I would
> have possibly recommended a higher power portable unit with a conditioning
> feature.  10-40amps, 3 stage, and conditioning mode, $50-100.  Stanley,
> Schumacher, Vector all have similar units available at the big bo

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Rick Brass]

It's true that the space available for batteries is different, and adding
more capacity will be more difficult for Curtis. (And even on the 38, the
locker under my quarter berth was big enough for all 5 batteries in my 2
banks - though not deep enough for the GC5 batteries I had wanted to install
- but I had to modify the access in order to use all the space in the
locker.)

 

But the requirement for capacity will be driven by use and systems, not the
size of the boat. If cruising full time, Curtis's Admiral will want
refrigeration (instead of eating only canned food. She will want to take a
shower, so a water heater and a pressure water system. His first attempt to
navigate at night in a fog will make him want radar. Playing with the big
boats in the Gulf Stream off the Florida Coast will make him want AIS.

 

It's pernicious. The power requirement just keeps growing and growing. I bet
it even happens to Lynn and Larry Pardey.

 

Rick

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Gary
Nylander
Sent: Wednesday, December 18, 2013 10:56 AM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

Rick, I seem to remember that Curtis has a 30. He couldn't have near the
needs you do on your 38 or he would be all batteries in that smaller boat.

 

Gary

- Original Message - 

From: Rick Brass <mailto:rickbr...@earthlink.net>  

To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com 

Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 7:45 PM

Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

Curtis;

 

At the risk of being presumptuous, I think you have the cart before the
horse.

 

If your intent is extended cruising - particularly offshore cruising where
you will not be using your engine for power (and to recharge the batteries)
every day - you will first need to think about the systems you have on board
and how much power they will draw. Refrigeration is a major draw. Radar?
Autopilot? What instruments? What lights? Power for entertainment like radio
or TV?  Small things like a 12 v electric coffee maker or a microwave draw a
shocking amount of power out of your batteries.

 

Once you know how many amp hours you will use on average, you can figure out
how many additional batteries you need, what type, and where to put them. My
average consumption right now is under 100 amp-hours/day. But I plan to run
refrigeration (45 more AH) and to anchor out for extended periods. So my
house bank is 4 deep cycle group 27 batteries with 460 AH capacity. That
gives 230 usable AH (50% discharge) and should let me go for 2 days between
charges. In addition I have a group 29 marine starting battery as a second
bank, and a deep cycle group 24 under the v-berth to power the head and the
anchor windlass.

 

The 400+ AH house bank dictates at least a 40amp, multi bank charger. I have
an older Xantrex 40+ wired to the house and starting bank. There is a solar
charger for the group 24 battery that is OK for now, but I plan to install
an ACR that will top up the charge on that battery when I'm hooked to shore
power or running the engine.

 

To put 100 AH into my house bank by running the engine (with a 45 amp
alternator installed) will take at least 3 hours of run time - which is OK
when I'm traveling on the ICW but not acceptable when at anchor. SO I plan
to install a bank of solar panels over the Bimini, and maybe a wind
generator as well, to maintain the batteries at anchor.

 

As you can see, the process starts with determining how much power you will
be using each day, and that will depend on what systems you have installed
for cruising.

 

You said you had an "OEM" battery charger installed. Probably not really
OEM, but the question is: is it still working? If it is, spend your money on
the other systems you will be installing, and the additional batteries, and
worry about a new (probably more efficient) charger in 2017 or so.

 

 

Rick Brass

Washington, NC

 

 

 

From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Curtis
Sent: Tuesday, December 17, 2013 1:16 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

 

I picked up the one noted above to maintain the battery's. In my first post
I was trying to explain I needed something to keep the batt's charged while
sailing ever couple of weeks. "For Now" In  2018 We hope to shove off for
some extended cruising. 

I will need to install a Good expensive on board fixed mount bank charger.
This is what I was hoping to get advice on. the Good one that will give me a
charge on all my batt's when I come in from off shore. 

Sorry for the confusion.

 

 

 

 

On Tue, Dec 17, 2013 at 12:52 PM, Josh Muckley  wrote:

Evidently, we all misunderstood the question.  The battery minder is
advertised to provide a "de-sufating" pulse charge to prevent loss of
capacity.  This is fine and may or may not add value for your p

Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Frederick G Street]

I asked them about that when we had them to dinner several years back.  Really. 
 They were in Minneapolis for a seminar I helped organize.  Great people.

They still use oil-based nav and anchor lights.  Larry’s pretty adamant about 
being a “purist” on his hand-built wooden boats.  They also still use a scull 
to get in and out of anchorages, as their boats haven’t had engines.


Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Dec 18, 2013, at 11:10 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:

> I bet it even happens to Lynn and Larry Pardey.

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Curtis]

I forgot I do have pressurized fresh water. But its not heated. An what I
was fingering out is that C&C 30MK1 will be o.k for the first summer? and
she the Admiral will want to move up to a bigger more equipped boat for
extended cruising. This would be a great boat to learn on and then move to
a  36' / 42' when I have her sold on the life aboard. She will be
begging for the luxuries you speak of. hot water a/c refrigeration ect...


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 12:47 PM, Frederick G Street wrote:

> I asked them about that when we had them to dinner several years back.
>  Really.  They were in Minneapolis for a seminar I helped organize.  Great
> people.
>
> They still use oil-based nav and anchor lights.  Larry’s pretty adamant
> about being a “purist” on his hand-built wooden boats.  They also still use
> a scull to get in and out of anchorages, as their boats haven’t had engines.
>
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>
> On Dec 18, 2013, at 11:10 AM, Rick Brass  wrote:
>
> I bet it even happens to Lynn and Larry Pardey.
>
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
>
>


-- 
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should really be running the world.” - Nicholas Monsarrat
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Wally Bryant]

Yeah, I have to admit I didn't get my power consumption estimates 
right.  It worked out okay when I had high capacity Trojans on board, 
but these Mexican golf cart batteries have about half the capacity, 
which means a daily recharging regimen.  And, of course, it doesn't help 
that I discovered that my 12V TV can play .avi movies on a flash drive! 
I just spent a week on the hook watching 'Breaking Bad' Season 1 through 
5 non-stop.  Doing stuff like that wasn't part of the initial power budget.


Thank goodness for my little quiet Honda 2000 watt generator. (smile)

Wal

Curtis wrote:

Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep in
mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that before
from people starting out. HAHAh.



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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[dwight]

I have a quiet 2000 Honda generator...it's not that small

-Original Message-
From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
Bryant
Sent: December 18, 2013 2:27 PM
To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

Yeah, I have to admit I didn't get my power consumption estimates 
right.  It worked out okay when I had high capacity Trojans on board, 
but these Mexican golf cart batteries have about half the capacity, 
which means a daily recharging regimen.  And, of course, it doesn't help 
that I discovered that my 12V TV can play .avi movies on a flash drive! 
I just spent a week on the hook watching 'Breaking Bad' Season 1 through 
5 non-stop.  Doing stuff like that wasn't part of the initial power budget.

Thank goodness for my little quiet Honda 2000 watt generator. (smile)

Wal

Curtis wrote:
> Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
> principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep in
> mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that
before
> from people starting out. HAHAh.


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Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
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Re: Stus-List battery charger sale

[Joel Aronson]

Nice !

On Thursday, December 19, 2013, Della Barba, Joe wrote:

>
> http://stores.ebay.com/The-ChargerGuy/Marine-Chargers-12vt-Dry-Mount-/_i.html?_fsub=2458863012&_sid=290185052&_sop=2&_trksid=p4634.c0.m14
>
>
>
> I have no relationship to this guy except I got a charger for someone from
> him and it worked fine. The prices are good right now.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> *Joe Della Barba Coquina*
>
>
>
>
>


-- 
Joel
301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Stevan Plavsa]

If all you want is to keep your batteries topped off in the short term have
a look at solar. I outfitted my boat with an 80watt panel mounted above the
bimini for about $350. $100 of that was for SS fittings. Solar is perfect
for the "top off" 3rd stage of charging. If you're going cruising solar is
something you'll be able to use then too. I'm on a mooring so no shore
power. I sail on weekends with a few cruises in the summer and the solar
has worked out great so far.

Best advise so far is to invest in Nigel Calder's book .. I have his and
Don Casey's books and for me, they're both great. I love this mailing list
and I think the people here are super helpful and knowledgeable but there's
nothing that you'll learn here about electrical systems on boats that you
won't learn from either of those guys' books ... plus their books are full
of all sorts of valuable information on all the boat systems you're likely
going to have to replace, install or maintain prior to, and during that
cruise. A good investment.

Steve
Suhana, C&C 32
Toronto


On Wed, Dec 18, 2013 at 1:51 PM, dwight  wrote:

> I have a quiet 2000 Honda generator...it's not that small
>
> -Original Message-
> From: CnC-List [mailto:cnc-list-boun...@cnc-list.com] On Behalf Of Wally
> Bryant
> Sent: December 18, 2013 2:27 PM
> To: cnc-list@cnc-list.com
> Subject: Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?
>
> Yeah, I have to admit I didn't get my power consumption estimates
> right.  It worked out okay when I had high capacity Trojans on board,
> but these Mexican golf cart batteries have about half the capacity,
> which means a daily recharging regimen.  And, of course, it doesn't help
> that I discovered that my 12V TV can play .avi movies on a flash drive!
> I just spent a week on the hook watching 'Breaking Bad' Season 1 through
> 5 non-stop.  Doing stuff like that wasn't part of the initial power budget.
>
> Thank goodness for my little quiet Honda 2000 watt generator. (smile)
>
> Wal
>
> Curtis wrote:
> > Wow. You guys have gone deep with the power consumption and recharging
> > principles. You have open my eyes to a big project moving forward. Keep
> in
> > mind my wife and I will not need much power. Bet you have heard that
> before
> > from people starting out. HAHAh.
>
>
> ___
> This List is provided by the C&C Photo Album
> http://www.cncphotoalbum.com
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> -
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2247 / Virus Database: 3658/6430 - Release Date: 12/18/13
>
>
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> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger recommendations?

[Marek Dziedzic]

If/when you install solar, make sure that you don't skimp on the charge
controller. It will make or break the entire project. When you look at it, a
good controller might be around half of the cost of the system. Read up on
various types of solar controllers. A good source is Main Sail's musings on
Sailboat Owner's forum or his own web site
(http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/solar_panel).

Marek 
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger Question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Hi, Edd — the negative side of the charger output can go straight to the main 
negative bus bar; this should have a large conductor straight to the negative 
sides of both the house and start banks.  DO NOT just grab any local ground 
point, as the connection from it to the battery may not be sound; or it may not 
be adequately sized for the charger current.  The positive should go to the 
house positive bar or straight to the battery, through an appropriately-sized 
fuse or breaker.

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(   
Launching next Tuesday!   :^)

On Apr 30, 2015, at 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Listers,
> 
> For a shore-powered battery charger, do the red and black wires need to run 
> to the battery or can the red run to the battery and the black to any common 
> ground on the boat? 
> 
> In other words, does the black need to connect directly to the negative 
> terminal on the battery? 
> 
> 
> All the best,
> 
> Edd

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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Fred,

That’s what I thought. An installation manual threw me for a few. . . . 

Thanks for the clarification. 

Sheesh — more fuses… more fuses… 

I’m now going to call you Fred “The Fuse-Man” Street


All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:51 AM, Frederick G Street  wrote:
> 
> Hi, Edd — the negative side of the charger output can go straight to the main 
> negative bus bar; this should have a large conductor straight to the negative 
> sides of both the house and start banks.  DO NOT just grab any local ground 
> point, as the connection from it to the battery may not be sound; or it may 
> not be adequately sized for the charger current.  The positive should go to 
> the house positive bar or straight to the battery, through an 
> appropriately-sized fuse or breaker.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(   
> Launching next Tuesday!   :^)
> 
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> For a shore-powered battery charger, do the red and black wires need to run 
>> to the battery or can the red run to the battery and the black to any common 
>> ground on the boat? 
>> 
>> In other words, does the black need to connect directly to the negative 
>> terminal on the battery? 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
> 

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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger Question

[Joel Aronson via CnC-List]

Fred,

If it goes to the bus bars won't it charge all batteries on the live
circuit, not a single battery?

Not sure if that is Edd's goal.

Joel

On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 11:51 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

> Hi, Edd — the negative side of the charger output can go straight to the
> main negative bus bar; this should have a large conductor straight to the
> negative sides of both the house and start banks.  DO NOT just grab any
> local ground point, as the connection from it to the battery may not be
> sound; or it may not be adequately sized for the charger current.  The
> positive should go to the house positive bar or straight to the battery,
> through an appropriately-sized fuse or breaker.
>
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
> Launching next Tuesday!   :^)
>
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Listers,
>
> For a shore-powered battery charger, do the red and black wires need to
> run to the battery or can the red run to the battery and the black to any
> common ground on the boat?
>
> In other words, does the black need to connect directly to the negative
> terminal on the battery?
>
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
>
> ___
>
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the
> bottom of page at:
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>
>
>


-- 
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301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger Question

[Edd Schillay via CnC-List]

Joel,

My goal is to charge the house bank (so I’d connect it to the house bank 
positive bus bar). My ground is common to all batteries so I wanted to make 
sure I’d still charge the house (the ACR will automatically charge the engine 
battery anyway). 

Love this list. 

All the best,

Edd


Edd M. Schillay
Starship Enterprise
C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
City Island, NY 
Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 













> On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List 
>  wrote:
> 
> Fred,
> 
> If it goes to the bus bars won't it charge all batteries on the live circuit, 
> not a single battery?
> 
> Not sure if that is Edd's goal.
> 
> Joel
> 
> On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 11:51 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> Hi, Edd — the negative side of the charger output can go straight to the main 
> negative bus bar; this should have a large conductor straight to the negative 
> sides of both the house and start banks.  DO NOT just grab any local ground 
> point, as the connection from it to the battery may not be sound; or it may 
> not be adequately sized for the charger current.  The positive should go to 
> the house positive bar or straight to the battery, through an 
> appropriately-sized fuse or breaker.
> 
> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(   
> Launching next Tuesday!   :^)
> 
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List 
> mailto:cnc-list@cnc-list.com>> wrote:
> 
>> Listers,
>> 
>> For a shore-powered battery charger, do the red and black wires need to run 
>> to the battery or can the red run to the battery and the black to any common 
>> ground on the boat? 
>> 
>> In other words, does the black need to connect directly to the negative 
>> terminal on the battery? 
>> 
>> 
>> All the best,
>> 
>> Edd
> 
> 
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com 
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> Joel 
> 301 541 8551
> ___
> 
> Email address:
> CnC-List@cnc-list.com
> To change your list preferences, including unsubscribing -- go to the bottom 
> of page at:
> http://cnc-list.com/mailman/listinfo/cnc-list_cnc-list.com
> 

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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger Question

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Edd, if you have a current shunt (which you do if you use your Link 2000)
it is normally on the ground wire.  You should make sure all you charging
sources go to the load side, not the battery side, of the shunt.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Apr 30, 2015 11:56 AM, "Edd Schillay via CnC-List" 
wrote:

> Joel,
>
> My goal is to charge the house bank (so I'd connect it to the house bank
> positive bus bar). My ground is common to all batteries so I wanted to make
> sure I'd still charge the house (the ACR will automatically charge the
> engine battery anyway).
>
> Love this list.
>
> All the best,
>
> Edd
>
>
> Edd M. Schillay
> Starship Enterprise
> C&C 37+ | Sail No: NCC-1701-B
> City Island, NY
> Starship Enterprise's Captain's Log 
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:54 AM, Joel Aronson via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
> Fred,
>
> If it goes to the bus bars won't it charge all batteries on the live
> circuit, not a single battery?
>
> Not sure if that is Edd's goal.
>
> Joel
>
> On Thu, Apr 30, 2015 at 11:51 AM, Frederick G Street via CnC-List <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi, Edd -- the negative side of the charger output can go straight to the
>> main negative bus bar; this should have a large conductor straight to the
>> negative sides of both the house and start banks.  DO NOT just grab any
>> local ground point, as the connection from it to the battery may not be
>> sound; or it may not be adequately sized for the charger current.  The
>> positive should go to the house positive bar or straight to the battery,
>> through an appropriately-sized fuse or breaker.
>>
>> Fred Street -- Minneapolis
>> S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(
>>   Launching next Tuesday!   :^)
>>
>> On Apr 30, 2015, at 10:47 AM, Edd Schillay via CnC-List <
>> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>>
>> Listers,
>>
>> For a shore-powered battery charger, do the red and black wires need to
>> run to the battery or can the red run to the battery and the black to any
>> common ground on the boat?
>>
>> In other words, does the black need to connect directly to the negative
>> terminal on the battery?
>>
>>
>> All the best,
>>
>> Edd
>>
>>
>>
>> ___
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>>
>>
>
>
> --
> Joel
> 301 541 8551
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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger Question

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Josh — you’re correct, thanks for the clarification.  The main negative bus 
needs to be on the “Load” side of the shunt, if you have one installed.  And 
Joel: the negative side of all DC systems in the boat should terminate at one 
point.  This should include batteries (or banks of them), the DC panel, the 
engine block, charging systems; and even the ground for the AC system (green 
wire only).

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- on the hard in Bayfield, WI   :^(

On Apr 30, 2015, at 11:07 AM, Josh Muckley via CnC-List  
wrote:

> Edd, if you have a current shunt (which you do if you use your Link 2000) it 
> is normally on the ground wire.  You should make sure all you charging 
> sources go to the load side, not the battery side, of the shunt.

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Re: Stus-List Battery Charger - Update

[Bill Dakin via CnC-List]

You will like it.  We have the model 12 since our loads are small and no need 
for a faster charge with the 20.  Convenient size and long leads.

Bill Dakin

> On May 6, 2017, at 2:29 PM, robert via CnC-List  wrote:
> 
> I have concluded the old Guest charger is dead and I just bought a ProMariner 
> dual bank charger.  The new charger 

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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Rich Knowles via CnC-List]

Try this:
http://ca.binnacle.com/mobile/product_info.php?products_id=10001

Rich

Rich Knowles
IFDS 2014 Worlds
Support Chair

> On Aug 7, 2014, at 12:07, "Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> Investigating availability of "smart" or three step charger to install in 
> locker next to batteries, obviously concern is size for this type of boat, or 
> portable one. Must have auto shut-off. Any ideas? Battery guy says most car 
> type chargers only measure volts and shut off when reach the limit but you 
> then need to put it on manual and charge another four hours, which isn't 
> practical given distance house/boat. Also that real importance is amps and 
> only way to measure that is using a battery acid hygrometer.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Patrick Wesley, Sidney BC
> 
> 
> -- 
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Frederick G Street via CnC-List]

Patrick — I’d stay away from non-marine battery chargers in the marine 
environment; for both safety and longevity/reliability reasons.

Something like this would probably work fine for your size boat:
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|328|2289962|2289963&id=1512352

You could upsize to 20 amps, but that may be overkill.  Do you already have a 
shorepower system?

Fred Street -- Minneapolis
S/V Oceanis (1979 C&C Landfall 38) -- Bayfield, WI

On Aug 7, 2014, at 10:07 AM, Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List 
 wrote:

> 
> Investigating availability of "smart" or three step charger to install in 
> locker next to batteries, obviously concern is size for this type of boat, or 
> portable one. Must have auto shut-off. Any ideas? Battery guy says most car 
> type chargers only measure volts and shut off when reach the limit but you 
> then need to put it on manual and charge another four hours, which isn't 
> practical given distance house/boat. Also that real importance is amps and 
> only way to measure that is using a battery acid hygrometer.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Patrick Wesley, Sidney BC
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://stores.ebay.com/The-ChargerGuy?_rdc=1

Good deals  on chargers. No financial interest at all - but I did buy something 
from here with no problems.

Joe Della Barba   Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Wally Bryant via CnC-List]

I put a ProMariner on Stella Blue last year, and am very pleased with 
it. The one Rich suggests would be good for a 24 with one or two 
batteries.  Note the dimensions: 9x5x2 inches.  That's pretty small.  
Auto shut off isn't really necessary with a good three stage charger, as 
float mode will hold the batteries at maintenance voltage.  Mine's a bit 
bigger with a few fancy features, but my needs are different.


Wal

Rich wrote:

Try this:
http://ca.binnacle.com/mobile/product_info.php?products_id=10001

Rich



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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

What about solar?  A lot of problems and liabilities come from being
attached to shore.  You're just keeping the batteries topped up for the
next adventure right?

Every smart charger i have ever seen, (auto, marine, clamp on, or
permanent) works as follows:

First: It performs idiot checks to make sure the battery is not bad or
terminals reversed.
Stage 1: (Bulk charge, ~80% of full capacity) Start at max rated current
and slowly ramp up voltage until max rated voltage is reached
Stage 2: (acceptance charge, remaining ~20% of full charge) Once the max
rated charge voltage of your type of battery is reached (14.7v for a
standard wet lead-acid battery) then the current is slowly ramped down
while simultaneously keeping the voltage at 14.7v .
Stage 3: When the charge current has reduced to the float curent 1-2 amps
for a predetermined amount of time (1-5 minutes) the charger switches to a
float mode where the voltage is reduced to the appropriate float voltage
(~13.2v for a standard lead-acid) and the minimum current is applied
(~1-2amp).  During this stage different chargers may periodically shift on
or off or test the acceptance by switching to the 14.7v and "checking" how
long it takes to return to the minimum current.

The better chargers tend to have battery type seletors and may have a
little different time delays or charge programs for each battery type.
Many permanent installs have more than one set of charge terminals for more
than one bank (the current is still limited to the max rating of the
charger).  With more features the price goes up.

I presume that you are considering chargers for equalizing and
"preventative maintenance".  Any 3 stage "smart" auto charger could be used
as a equalizing charger.  I have a 40amp Stanley that is similar to Vector
and Schumacher.  $100 bucks at Lowes AND it has an alternator checker and
"start" booster too.

I wouldn't necessarily leave it unattended but while you're tinkering about
at the dock 3 or 4 (or more) times a season would be fine.  They make 10
and 20 amp versions also.  They are just temporary and clamp on.  Mine did
great as a backup when my brand new 40amp xantrex ($400) died on the
delivery trip.

Best part is when you are done you can get the weight and clutter off the
boat and use it at home.

Josh Muckley
S/V Sea Hawk
1989 C&C 37+
Solomons, MD
On Aug 7, 2014 11:07 AM, "Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Investigating availability of "smart" or three step charger to install in
> locker next to batteries, obviously concern is size for this type of
> boat, or portable one. Must have auto shut-off. Any ideas? Battery guy says
> most car type chargers only measure volts and shut off when reach the limit
> but you then need to put it on manual and charge another four hours, which
> isn't practical given distance house/boat. Also that real importance is
> amps and only way to measure that is using a battery acid hygrometer.
>>
>>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Patrick Wesley, Sidney BC
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Oh yeah, +1 on the ProMariner.

The PO replaced an old xantrex with a new one which died on him within a
year.  I clamed the warranty on it after closing on the boat but was
disappointed when the new one died within a week.  Warranty refunded and I
switched to a ProMariner and haven't heard a peep from it in 2.5 years.

Josh Muckley
On Aug 7, 2014 11:07 AM, "Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List" <
cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:

>
> Investigating availability of "smart" or three step charger to install in
> locker next to batteries, obviously concern is size for this type of
> boat, or portable one. Must have auto shut-off. Any ideas? Battery guy says
> most car type chargers only measure volts and shut off when reach the limit
> but you then need to put it on manual and charge another four hours, which
> isn't practical given distance house/boat. Also that real importance is
> amps and only way to measure that is using a battery acid hygrometer.
>>
>>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Patrick Wesley, Sidney BC
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Josh Muckley via CnC-List]

Almost forgot.  Consider your battery bank AHr capacity.  The max charger
current should be limited to about 25% of the smallest bank capacity.  A
20amp charger would be a good fit for an 80AHr battery.  This assumes a
flooded lead acid.  30% for gel and 40% for AGM.

You mentioned using a hygrometer but this is only for flooded batteries.
Despite being "able" to sometimes get the caps off of "maintenance free"
batteries you stand a good chance of messing things up more than fixing.
So that leaves the decreasingly available maintenance style batteries with
individual caps for each cell.

Josh Muckley
On Aug 7, 2014 8:51 PM, "Josh Muckley"  wrote:

> Oh yeah, +1 on the ProMariner.
>
> The PO replaced an old xantrex with a new one which died on him within a
> year.  I clamed the warranty on it after closing on the boat but was
> disappointed when the new one died within a week.  Warranty refunded and I
> switched to a ProMariner and haven't heard a peep from it in 2.5 years.
>
> Josh Muckley
> On Aug 7, 2014 11:07 AM, "Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List" <
> cnc-list@cnc-list.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Investigating availability of "smart" or three step charger to install in
>> locker next to batteries, obviously concern is size for this type of
>> boat, or portable one. Must have auto shut-off. Any ideas? Battery guy says
>> most car type chargers only measure volts and shut off when reach the limit
>> but you then need to put it on manual and charge another four hours, which
>> isn't practical given distance house/boat. Also that real importance is
>> amps and only way to measure that is using a battery acid hygrometer.
>>>
>>>
>> Thanks in advance.
>>
>> Patrick Wesley, Sidney BC
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>>
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>>
>>
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Della Barba, Joe via CnC-List]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ProMariner-ProTech-12vt-20-Amp-3-BANK-Boat-Marine-Battery-Charger-Maintainer-/151186903725?pt=Boat_Parts_Accessories_Gear&vxp=mtr&hash=item23337112ad

This model would be more than enough.
I also have a 20 watt solar panel with a Morningstar PWN controller that do 
well when I am off shorepower or don't feel like stringing the cord up.

Joe Della Barba  Coquina
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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Michael Brown via CnC-List]

I installed a pair of Noco Genius G3500 chargers this year.
The racing rules require spill proof batteries for new replacements,
currently I have one flooded and one AGM.

Advantages are:

IP65 water rating
light weight and easy to mount
useful status LEDs
automatic desulfation or deeply discharged recovery
nice leads supplied with inline fuse

http://www.geniuschargers.com/G3500

The 3.5 amp unit was acceptable for me. Other models include
7.2 and 26 amp units. Note that some battery specs include a
minimum charging current for best life expectancy.


I have noticed that some dual bank chargers appear to have a
common internal power supply. So if one bank of batteries become
defective and hold the voltage low the other bank does not get
charged. At least one charger I worked with went to a bulk
charge voltage for a while. That was good for the larger house
bank which was discharged, but the smaller starter battery
was being overcharged all the time and boiled dry.

If you have a larger house battery that does get discharged and
a smaller starter battery that is normally near full charge installing
two chargers should be considered.

Also I got the G3500 new with warranty from eBay for under $40 each 


Michael Brown
Windburn
C&C 30-1




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Re: Stus-List Battery charger on 24

[Patrick H. Wesley via CnC-List]

Thanks to everyone who responded with comments and advice re my battery
charger questions. Replies were very useful and I even understood most of
them! I now have a Plan. Patrick Wesley, The Boat C & C 24


On Thu, Aug 7, 2014 at 8:07 AM, Patrick H. Wesley 
wrote:

>
> Investigating availability of "smart" or three step charger to install in
> locker next to batteries, obviously concern is size for this type of
> boat, or portable one. Must have auto shut-off. Any ideas? Battery guy says
> most car type chargers only measure volts and shut off when reach the limit
> but you then need to put it on manual and charge another four hours, which
> isn't practical given distance house/boat. Also that real importance is
> amps and only way to measure that is using a battery acid hygrometer.
>>
>>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Patrick Wesley, Sidney BC
>
>
> --
> Sent from Gmail Mobile
>



-- 
Patrick H. Wesley
4068 Licorice Lane, Victoria BC Canada V8X 0A2
1 250 370 0547; mobile 1 250 380 8959
hickl...@telus.net
hickland.wes...@gmail.com
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