[Elecraft] K2 Internal Speaker Now Alive and Well
Hi Fellow Elecrafters, My K2's internal speaker is now alive and well. I found the problem around noon Saturday and I really felt like a big dummy. I had it plugged onto P5 of the control board instead of P5 on the RF board (behind the on/off switch). And, I know how/why it happened. So here is the run down. As I stated in my initial post, I had messed up one of the crimp pins for the plug. And, also, I had messed up the speaker wire and had to shorten it a bit and thought that I was going to need more speaker wire (so it would reach) and a new crimp pin. But, I was really in no hurry to get those items since I use headphones most of the time. Anyway, I proceeded to finish assembly and did not read any more about the speaker installation. I just jumped past anything concerning the speaker, finished the rig and started making contacts. Then, when I got my internal battery option in on Friday and installed it, I discovered (amongst the mess on my bench) that I had an extra crimp pin for the plug. I rechecked all my wiring for the internal speaker and external speaker jack (I did have all of that done before I messed up the pin) and all was well. So, I put the new pin on and found that I was barely going to have enough wire to reach. I glanced at the manual and saw that P5 was where I was to plug onto. I looked at my wires, then glanced inside the rig for the closest two pin male plug, saw P5 on the control board. And, said to myself, "There's P5 and it looks like I have just enough wire to reach it and it seems to be in perfect position for this plug". So, plug it on/in I did. And, as you know, I had no audio. I rechecked my wiring again and still found it to be correct. So, that is when I checked the archives to see if anyone else had had the same problem and then made my post to the group concerning the possibility of needing a new headphone jack. Anyway, I got started Saturday morning about 11:30 checking things out again, rechecked wiring again, jiggled wires, checked to see if anything could be shorting out etc etc. Then, I started reading the manual for each step of the speaker installation. Everything seemed to be right, orientation of the external speaker jack, copper wire here, other wire there, make sure of this or that, plug to P5. I kept going over it again and again. I could not see that I had done anything wrong. Exasperated, I leaned back in my chair. Thinking, "It has to be a bad "jack"." Then, I tried to "chill" for a few minutes. Well, (after my chill pill) I started reading the manual again and once more got to P5. But, this time I saw/read where P5 was behind a switch. I said to myself, "What? There ain't no stinking switch anywhere around P5." I "fume" a little more and rock back in my chair, trying to "chill' again. A few seconds pass. I read it again. What?? Huh?? P5, RF board, behind on/off switch. What are they talking about?? P5 is on the Control Board. I ought to know since I have looked at and hooked to it a multitude of times trying to get this stinking speaker to work. I rock back in my chair again. A few seconds pass. I rock/lean forward and peer over the front panel and control board, "glaring" down upon the RF board (bottom, right hand side) and something was "glaring" back at me, another P5. I plugged onto it and the speaker worked. The bottom line is this, "I developed "tunnel vision", so to speak. And, was "locked on" to the first P5 I saw, that "appeared" to meet the needs of the speaker installation." But, had I read and "digested" fully, what was written, I would not have had this problem. Or, taken up space on this reflector. My apologies go out to all. And, hopefully, this post will maybe help someone else not make the same mistake that I did. All My Best, Mike KT2E K2 4777 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna analyzers
Yes, I'd like to have a CIA-HF. However, the company that made them got bought out. As far as I know, they are no longer being manufactured. I don't know wether the CIA-HF has been discontinued, but similar units are still being built: http://www.garant-funk.com/frames.html http://www.aeatechnology.com/html/product.htm An Elecraft kit would almost always be better... ;-) 73 de toby ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] KIO2 module inductors, K2 sn 3460
On Apr 16, 2005, at 6:59 PM, jon howe wrote: I guess that I should have asked this question a while ago, but is there a polarity associated with those sub-mini RF chokes, the little inductors that look like resistors? No. They are not polarized. The outline on the board has a pair of lines across it, slightly offset from the midpoint. I wonder if it means something. It means that Wayne found a great looking inductor footprint for us to use on our PCB layouts. - Jack Brindle, W6FB - ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Elecraft CW Net Announcement
Good Evening Folks, The sun has finally come out in Northwestern Oregon. The antennas are drying off so they may just radiate (listen) a bit better. Twenty and forty meters need a little activity tomorrow night. I am unsure of propagation conditions but this will prove a good test for them. Please join us : Sunday 2300z (Sunday 4pm PDT) 14050 kHz Monday 0200z (Sunday 7pm PDT) 7045 kHz Visit our web site: http://ecn.visionseer.com/ for net details. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] KIO2 module inductors, K2 sn 3460
I guess that I should have asked this question a while ago, but is there a polarity associated with those sub-mini RF chokes, the little inductors that look like resistors? The outline on the board has a pair of lines across it, slightly offset from the midpoint. I wonder if it means something. Thanks, jh, VE8JJ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2/KIO2 with newer Palm... IR?
Sadly, the Bluetooth serial port adapters all seem to require 45 mA to 50 mA -- I checked several manufacturers. OK for the shack, not so good for PDA or field use :-( OTOH, there are tons of USB Bluetooth dongles that sell for under $20 -- even without rebates! :-) Go with the KISS principle... I just use the sync cradle with a null modem adapter to the K2io cable. It allows about 6 feet of freedom if not more and the cradle is a nice angle to read/write/graffitti. see pic at; > http://users.erols.com/tjmc/k2palm.jpg BTW, the older Palms ( like the 105 are dirt cheap ) run on AAA's so it's not prob with recharging. all best Tom aa2vk ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Spectrum Analyzers, VNAs, antenna analyzers etc
Good post, Rob. I second what you said. You will find the N2PK a valuable piece of gear. Software-wise, look at Greg Ordy's Cialog software which also works with the AEA CIA-HF. As such, it limits the resolution of some functions to that which is supported by CIA... the VNA libraries are available, and I'm thinking of writing my own software for it. The N2PK is a real challenge if you did not get one of the partially assembled board sets ;-) Another good practice project is one of the AmQrp ones, like the Micro908. A friend of mine has an HP-8754A VNA that cost him a couple thousand dollars, and he recently built a N2PK... he uses the N2PK most of the time now, and only uses the HP to occasionally verify his results. I prefer a used SA as opposed to HB... HP and Tektronix make several that fill the bill, but I do plan to make my own tracking generator at some point for the Tek 7L14 I have. The Tek SA fits into a 7000 frame, and there are also lots of scope modules available for this frame. I also have a Tek 475 scope for portable work that I bought on eBay, and a HP8640B signal generator that I highly recommend... there is a military version for less money that eliminates the phase lock feature, but the stablility is still pretty good. As you say, verify the source, preferably a test equipment vendor with close to 100% feedback rating who will guarantee the unit works fully. It might cost $100-200 more for this, but it's worth it in reduced hassle. All that being said, I have an Autek VA-1, MFJ and AEA CIA-HF... all of which I make use of regularly... and I am thinking about the Italian analyzer or Micro908. You can't have enough test equipment ;-) Larry N8LP Robert Cochrane wrote: Before the moderators close this thread down (or introduce their own kit!) some thoughts from G - land. For basic testing equipment the best route is definitely to go through e-Bay and buy 10-15 years old professional equipment. The "feel" of this generation is also like the K2, with a similar style of interface. But it is much better to use trustworthy suppliers. We all have some bad stories. I use a Tek 2445A scope and a Marconi 2019A sig gen bought this way. Plus items like an HP step attenuator. If anyone would like to know some trustworthy guys on UK eBay, write off line. But almost everything else I use is kit or home brew. Kit from guys like Oak Hills. AADE and N0XAS. The Autek AA is an exception. It is excellent value for aerial adjustment - apart from the human interface which is neither cold finger nor cold brain friendly. Thanks for the battery saving on - off switch grommet idea. Has anyone built a sturdy slow motion drive for the tuning? Let me know! I'm currently building both an N2PK VNA and a W7ZOI spectrum analyzer adapter. The N2PK provides both through DUT and bridge capability 0-60 MHz. It needs a computer with a parallel port which can use pre - XP direct communication. There is cheap German software available to work via XP through a genuine parallel port. It may not work through a USB parallel port emulator. There is talk of a faster version with slightly lower dynamic range for real time sweeps. The boards are still available from Italy. The G3SEK site has details. You need the courage to tackle SMD and either experience or an elmer to help check out power supply, etc. Plus perseverance collecting the components if you are in the UK. But this is serious gear for 0 -60MHz at an amazing price. The W7ZOI SA kits are still available from Kanga US. The construction is through board plus Manhattan. The IF filter is very fiddly to tune, and really needs building a low power RF meter as well. You also need to build an extra narrow crystal filter (which is a learning curve in its own right) since the basic SA is, like other simple SAs, great fun but not really valuable as a test instrument. You must spend a lot of time on RF screening, particularly if a tracking generator is included. It is built in modular sub units in Hammond boxes (Eddystone boxes, as they should properly be called, having been invented over here) each of which needs its own SMA or BNC connectors and through caps for power supply and controls. It also needs a +/- 15v supply. The metal work means you need a friend with a half inch drill capacity bench pillar drill too! And it also helps to have a friend with a professional SA running up to 150MHz to help set it up if you get lost... So why bother? Something about amateur radio being "self tuition"? If you love building instruments as well as radio and want to tackle SMD, start with the N0SS CW detector for the K2 and move on to the K2PK VNA. If you want to master RF screening, ladder filter construction and adjustment and the disappearing skill of RF metal working, build the W7ZOI SA. And if you are a busy semi- professional or much more interested in being on air than in
RE: [Elecraft] Spectrum Analyzers, VNAs, antenna analyzers etc
Regarding the Autek antenna analyzers, M0RAC wrote "Has anyone built a sturdy slow motion drive for the tuning? Let me know!" Here's one idea. Find the largest knob that will fit the little shaft and the space to the edge of the other knob. This will give a modest improvement in tuning rate, due to the larger radius of the knob. 73, Bob N6WG ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Spectrum Analyzers, VNAs, antenna analyzers etc
Before the moderators close this thread down (or introduce their own kit!) some thoughts from G - land. For basic testing equipment the best route is definitely to go through e-Bay and buy 10-15 years old professional equipment. The "feel" of this generation is also like the K2, with a similar style of interface. But it is much better to use trustworthy suppliers. We all have some bad stories. I use a Tek 2445A scope and a Marconi 2019A sig gen bought this way. Plus items like an HP step attenuator. If anyone would like to know some trustworthy guys on UK eBay, write off line. But almost everything else I use is kit or home brew. Kit from guys like Oak Hills. AADE and N0XAS. The Autek AA is an exception. It is excellent value for aerial adjustment - apart from the human interface which is neither cold finger nor cold brain friendly. Thanks for the battery saving on - off switch grommet idea. Has anyone built a sturdy slow motion drive for the tuning? Let me know! I'm currently building both an N2PK VNA and a W7ZOI spectrum analyzer adapter. The N2PK provides both through DUT and bridge capability 0-60 MHz. It needs a computer with a parallel port which can use pre - XP direct communication. There is cheap German software available to work via XP through a genuine parallel port. It may not work through a USB parallel port emulator. There is talk of a faster version with slightly lower dynamic range for real time sweeps. The boards are still available from Italy. The G3SEK site has details. You need the courage to tackle SMD and either experience or an elmer to help check out power supply, etc. Plus perseverance collecting the components if you are in the UK. But this is serious gear for 0 -60MHz at an amazing price. The W7ZOI SA kits are still available from Kanga US. The construction is through board plus Manhattan. The IF filter is very fiddly to tune, and really needs building a low power RF meter as well. You also need to build an extra narrow crystal filter (which is a learning curve in its own right) since the basic SA is, like other simple SAs, great fun but not really valuable as a test instrument. You must spend a lot of time on RF screening, particularly if a tracking generator is included. It is built in modular sub units in Hammond boxes (Eddystone boxes, as they should properly be called, having been invented over here) each of which needs its own SMA or BNC connectors and through caps for power supply and controls. It also needs a +/- 15v supply. The metal work means you need a friend with a half inch drill capacity bench pillar drill too! And it also helps to have a friend with a professional SA running up to 150MHz to help set it up if you get lost... So why bother? Something about amateur radio being "self tuition"? If you love building instruments as well as radio and want to tackle SMD, start with the N0SS CW detector for the K2 and move on to the K2PK VNA. If you want to master RF screening, ladder filter construction and adjustment and the disappearing skill of RF metal working, build the W7ZOI SA. And if you are a busy semi- professional or much more interested in being on air than in building instruments,, build a really, really big, strong, bench and save up for some of the fabulous solid state professional boat anchor gear now coming onto the market, through people you trust, on eBay. Rob M0RAC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Phase I Test & Alignment Problem - Solved!
Please ignore my earlier posting. Resisting the temptation to remove relays K1 -6 and -7 but being obsessed with finding an answer to my problem, I decided, instead, to scan the web (over a glass of wine). Much to my surprise, AD5MQ's web page described exactly the phenomenon I had experienced - which was cured by installing relays K1 8 -17 (not just 1 - 7)! Problem fixed. Guess it pays to read those directions carefully. ;) Bob Brown N1CVX __ Do you Yahoo!? Plan great trips with Yahoo! Travel: Now over 17,000 guides! http://travel.yahoo.com/p-travelguide ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K1 internal speaker dead
I have talked with a number of Elecraft rig owners who have had the jack go dead. I guess this news did not get disseminated on this list. All were word of mouth or on the air comments. I also have heard the various work arounds more than once. Some folks have just been luckier than others with their rigs. I did not know I had a problem until I unplugged the headphones (1/8 inch stereo plug) from the jack. They had been plugged in for almost a year when I tried listening to the speaker. It was dead. So I wrote a note to Gary and got his response. I will dig it out of my archives since this seems to be occurring to others' rigs lately. Not uncommon from my unscientific statistical sampling. 73, Kevin. KD5ONS On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 09:26:07 -0700 (PDT), Ralph Tyrrell <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net K1 internal speaker dead After many months of use my internal speaker went silent. I had seen "K2 internal speaker dead" postings and guessed that the same component was used in both radios. I did not want to unsolder the headphone jack. My solution was to put a jumper from the audio source to the speaker lead. If I do not want speaker output I put a something ( http://tyrrell.us/amateur ) over the speaker. 72, Ty, K1 1423 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] K2 Internal Speaker Dead
Hi Mike, My K2's phone jack has been broken for over a year. I can't afford to have it replaced. But your's should still be under warranty. Get it replaced now. I am not sure how long they last though. I had an email from Gary Surrency explaining what happens to the jacks and it sounds like they break quite often. One day I may replace it but I will try to find one which lasts longer. I did not know it was broken for the longest time since I use my headphones exclusively. Maintains domestic amity :) But I was going to use the internal speaker while running the Elecraft booth station and found the problem. So I used a computer speaker, power supply, and a y cable. Worked pretty well and got a number of folks to the booth just to copy the contacts. Good luck, Kevin. KD5ONS On Sat, 16 Apr 2005 00:32:13 -0400, Mike Monger <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: Hi Fellow Elecrafters, My K2 internal speaker is dead. I had messed up a crimp pin in the initial stages of assembly and so was not even using the internal speaker but only using headphones. I discovered tonight that I had an extra crimp pin. So, I got it installed. plugged to P5 ( I think it is) but no audio from internal speaker or from external speaker jack, only through headphones. I checked the archives and found that there have been problems in the past and that apparently it comes back to some bad contacts in the headphone jack. So, should I just get Elecraft to send me another headphone jack or should I check something else?? Thanks in Advance, Mike KT2E K2 4777 -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.12 - Release Date: 4/15/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] CAL FIL question on K2 #4565
Thanks, Ron. I did indeed have the BFO for FIL1 on CW-R on the wrong side. I cranked the BFO parameter up toward the center value and beyond, and saw another bandpass display (the right one) on Spectrogram. I had not appreciated that you will get a similar display on either side of the bandpass center. It's all starting to come together now. All I have to do now is get resonant antenna up (or build the KAT2) and have the first QSO. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] KSB2 Problem: Big attenuation of received signals
Thanks for the suggestions. I followed them all. I found some 27 AWG red enamel wire and re-wound RFC1 & 2, and I believe this is what fixed my problem. The enamel on the wire that came with the KSB2 kit, seemed to shear off with the sharp edges of the toroid cores, and this may have been causing a short to the crystal can. The new wire seemed to be a little thinner, even though it was smaller guage (27 vs. 28 - go figure), and the enamel seemed to stay on it a little better. Perhaps the enamel on the new wire was thinner. The KSB2 option is now installed, aligned, and working! Thanks, -Andrew KF7HB --- Ron D'Eau Claire <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote: > > The problem is that the receiver became very > quiet. I > > could still hear the strongest signals if I turn > the > > AF Gain way up, and instead of S9 on the meter, > > they're way down to S1. The KSB2 manual > specifically > > states (page 15, final step of "initial test") > this > > should not happen, and if it does, to go to the > troubleshooting > > section. > > > Andrew: Don's suggestions are right on track. I have > one to add, assuming > this is a new build. Check for d-c continuity from > each pin of each crystal > to ground. It should be an open circuit for d-c. If > not then most likely you > used enough solder to form a small fillet around the > pad. On the crystal > side of the pad, the fillet easily shorts the signal > path to the crystal > case and so to ground. > > If so, then remove the crystal involved, clean off > the solder, the carefully > replace it, using a minimum of solder. (Note that > you have jumpers across a > couple of capacitor locations, so a short there will > require that you open > the jumper to see which crystal is involved). > > Ron AC7AC > > > > __ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business - Try our new resources site! http://smallbusiness.yahoo.com/resources/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K2 Test and Alignment Part I - MIA ATT & Preamp Relays
Just completed Test and Alignment Part 1 - and was glad to see K2 4663 power-up without any sign of smoke. Going through the various tests, however, I received positive LCD feeback when the ATT/Preamp button was pressed - but no corresponding chatter from the relays. Every other function I have checked, has worked perfectly as indicated. Having looked at the schematic, I see that K1-6 and 7 are the relays that I should be hearing when ATT/Preamp is pressed. Before attempting to replace one or both of the relays, I unmounted the control board (where some of my initial test readings had been mildly suspect - while everything on the front panel board checked out perfectly), and I am seeing somewhat low readings on U6 and U8's various pins. My ability to check collector readings on Q1 and Q2 is constrained by the limited range of my ohmmeter (must do something about that). From my review of the K2's schematic, it would appear that Q2 could be at issue (as the 8R signal appears to play a role in K1 6 and 7's operation). As I'm writing from Prague in the Czech Republic, I'd sorely like to figure this one out from here - and would welcome any insights from those of you on the reflector. Replacing one or both of the relays would be reasonably easy, but I wonder if the problem lies elsewhere. 73 de Bob Brown, N1CVX KX1 # 874 P.S. As I generally read these comments in digest mode, please copy my private address as well. Greetings, as well, to W2RBA from a former student. Joe was responsible for getting me licensed in the early 80's (KA1JVE). __ Do you Yahoo!? Make Yahoo! your home page http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers
I apologize to those who found my statement "Since the MFJ and the Autek are apparently both junk" to be excessively prickly. It was an unfair thing for me to say. Steve Kercel AA4AK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] CAL FIL question on K2 #4565
Bob, WO3E wrote: So I selected 600 as the sidetone and tried to re-do CAL FIL. CW NORMAL went well, and I got slightly different values than for 650 Hz, as expected. Most of CW REVERSE seemed OK also - except for FIL1 and FIL4. For FIL1, the BFO parameter was EXACTLY the same as for CW NORMAL, and for FIL4 the BFO parameter was the same as the bandwidth center value. Reply: -- If you've got the same BFO setting for CW N and CW R on any filter, it's certain you are listening on the same sideband in both cases! One way to test which side of the bandpass your BFO is set on is by noting how the beat changes as you tune. On 40 and below, the beat note produced by a signal will decrease as you tune *down* in frequency in CW N and as you tune *up* in frequency in CW R. If that doesn't happen in each filter position, you have one of the BFO frequencies on the wrong side of the bandpass. The BFO settings also affect the local oscillator frequencies as well. There's a good description of how they interact on the Elecraft web site in a paper called "The Mechanics Behind CAL FIL". Ron AC7AC ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] CAL FIL question on K2 #4565
I completed assembly of #4565 and all seemed well. I used Spectrogram to perform CAL FIL using the N0SS article as a guide, but chose 650Hz as my sidetone freq since I thought I preferred a slightly higher tone, and selected 100Hz as FIL4 bandwidth. I completed the CAL FIL process, with all values of the BFO parameter and BFO freq consistent with (not quite identical to) the manual. After tuning around the bands for a while (and having a ball!), I decided that the sidetone freq was too high and 600 Hz was probably what I wanted, after all. So I selected 600 as the sidetone and tried to re-do CAL FIL. CW NORMAL went well, and I got slightly different values than for 650 Hz, as expected. Most of CW REVERSE seemed OK also - except for FIL1 and FIL4. For FIL1, the BFO parameter was EXACTLY the same as for CW NORMAL, and for FIL4 the BFO parameter was the same as the bandwidth center value. Specifically, here is what I found: Using band noise at 10.115 since it was quieter than other bands on a Saturday morning, I found the BFO parameter at center of bandwidth (lowest tone of background noise) to be about 151 (same as on the previous 650Hz run). Here are the BFO parameters for the four filters on CW NORMAL and CW reverse: CW NORMAL- FIL1: 122; FIL2:114; FIL3: 112; FIL4: 110 CW REVERSE - FIL1: 122; FIL2: 155; FIL3: 153; FIL4: 151 I understand that all BFO parameter values for CW REVERSE should be ABOVE bandwidth center (151). The only possible complicating factor I noted was that occasional signals could be heard (actually seen) on the band, manifesting themselves as spikes on the Spectrogram display. Actually, it was one of these that leads me to believe that I was properly getting a reverse display between CW NORMAL and REVERSE, since one spike appeared at the right edge of the Spectrogram display on NORMAL and at an equal distance from the left edge on REVERSE. I would appreciate suggestions on what 's happening. 73, Bob, WO3E ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] K1 internal speaker dead
Elecraft@mailman.qth.net K1 internal speaker dead After many months of use my internal speaker went silent. I had seen "K2 internal speaker dead" postings and guessed that the same component was used in both radios. I did not want to unsolder the headphone jack. My solution was to put a jumper from the audio source to the speaker lead. If I do not want speaker output I put a something ( http://tyrrell.us/amateur ) over the speaker. 72, Ty, K1 1423 __ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Keyerpotentiometer mods
hi folks, i dont need CW. So i think, i should change the keyerpotentiometer for a mike gain control. my question: is this possible and in which place i can build it? i think, it is possible at the plusside from C34 at the KSB2 SSB adapter. what do anybody thinking about this? 73 de dg3oo manfred __ Mit WEB.DE FreePhone mit hoechster Qualitaet ab 0 Ct./Min. weltweit telefonieren! http://freephone.web.de/?mc=021201 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] To drill or not to drill, that is the question
Stephen: I'm glad your operation worked. But even a small drill can do more damage to the plate-through than is necessary because you're not sure if it is going down the center of the hole, and encountering only solder, or if it is to the side, encountering both solder and plate-through. Using a stainless-steel pin or needle is a very safe method. Solder does not stick to the stainless steel. If the hole is partially open, you need only stick the tip of the needle in, use your iron, either on the pad or directly on the pin, to heat the pin and, with very gentle pressure let it slowly melt its way through. Works beautifully. Some larger stainless pins have nice large non-metallic heads, which allows one to hold it and apply pressure even when hot. Most XYLs have stainless pins or needles floating about. It seems to go with the breed. best wishes, dave belsley, w1euy On Apr 16, 2005, at 4:11 AM, Stephen wrote: Gentlefolks, I did not explain myself very well in the previous post. What I did was to use a very small drill, with a diameter smaller that that of the hole, and twist it gently between my fingers. This was sufficient to remove enough of the solder to allow me to insert the component leads without damaging the through hole plating. I was lucky enough to find a small box of 50 or so PCB drills in different sizes, from very tiny through to about 2 mm at a stall at Dayton some years back for, I think, $10. I only resorted to this approach because my Weller de soldering station, which i was given for free seems to have developed a fault and I had nothing else to hand. It is a Model DS 801, The symptom is that whilst the tip heats up, no matter what the temperature setting, it will not melt solder ;-(. The green LED flashes at about 1 Hz which is possibly a fault indication. if anyone has a manual for one, or knows what the fault is i would be greatful for some assistance. Of course the real answer is for me to pay more attention to the manual in the first place. ;-). It is a beautiful morning over here in Norfolk, England...do I melt more solder...or garden...that is the question. -- Stephen Farthing ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers
Hi I was not going to jump in on this but it seems everyone has an opinion so here are my experiences. I have a MFJ-259B, a Autek VA1 and a Autek RF5. The first 259B I got did not work (no RF out) I sent it back and the replacement has been fine for about 3 years. I use it fairly often and I like the analog meters as well as the digital readout. It is a little hard on batteries but I installed a set of NiMH rechargeable batteries and it has solved the problem. Just remember to recharge them with the included AC power supply. There is an internal switch that will allow them to charge from the AC adapter. I have the 259B in the soft protective case so it is not easy to remove the batteries. I just keep them installed inside and charge them in the instrument. When I got the VA1 and RF5 the VA1 had an intermittent problem and frankly I also ran into a non responsive customer service department. I finally decided to fix it myself and it turned out a large number of solder joints inside were never soldered or soldered poorly. After going over the boards and repairing the soldering it has worked properly. I did not have any problems with the RF-5. Electronically the design is good but I was a little disappointed with the mechanical design and the front panel could be done a bit better. For what its worth they do the job and are small, light and run quite a while on a 9 volt battery. I find if I am working on a HF antenna I will usually grab the 259B as it is easier to use and read than the VA1. For VHF the RF-5 is my choice. It has a function that will automatically find the lowest SWR or lowest impedance with the press of a button. If the VA1 had this I may change my opinion about it and prefer it over the 259B Don Brown KD5NDB ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: K2 1641 -- no BFO at TP2
Margaret Leber wrote: With that corrected, the VCO voltage readings on each band fell into line, and I'm now up to the BFO test. There's just plain no signal that CAL Fctr can find at TP2, even though there *is* a 4918 kHz or so signal at U11 pin 6, and even at the ungrounded side of C169. Q24 *looks* OK, but what can you tell by looking? :-) I also noted that something has the S-meter calibration in an uproar; it set up with completely nominal values originally but now requires extreme settings to unpin it from the top end and the RF gain doesn't move the lit bar around like it used to. Suggested avenues of investigation are welcome... One more observation for the detecK2ives out there: On the control board Q1-Q4 seem to be running quite warm; rather warmer than I would expect for a device designed for low power consumption--is that normal? 73 de Maggie K3XS, who's about to start checking DC voltages throughout -- -/___. _)Margaret Stephanie Leber CCP, SCJP/"The art of progress / /(, /| /| http://voicenet.com/~maggie SCWCD/ is to preserve order/ ---/ / | / | _ _ _` _ AOPA 925383/ amid change and to / --/ ) / |/ |_(_(_(_/_(_/__(__(/_ K3XS / preserve change amid/ -/ (_/ '.-/ .-/ARRL 39280 /order."-A.N.Whitehead/ /(_/_(_/___AMSAT 32844_/<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re:Antenna analyzers
In a message dated 4/16/2005 5:20:48 AM US Mountain Standard Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: " are both junk..." It's really unfortunate that with the ham marketplace so small, that folks feel the need to slam the few suppliers we have. I don't think you should be so hard on folks, even if they do "get carried away" perhaps. Obviously there is some frustration there, and they need to vent. All too often we get products that have maddening quirks, and generally they could have been avoided with just a little more thought, engineering, and/or better components. So, just weed out the excesses in their comments, and look for whatever might be valid. If you find nothing helpful, just chalk it up to someone having a bad day and forget it. More often than not, well reasoned responses will temper their frustration and maybe even help them see the error in their ways. I have a MFJ 259, and I like it. As far as I know, the MFJ-269 is just a 259 with UHF added. I think these antenna analyzers are just about the best products MFJ has ever made. But there's lots not to like as well. It's too big for one thing. I think it eats batteries too, but someone seemed to think it didn't. But, without question, this gadget does a lot of things, and does them pretty well. But I've given up changing batteries in it, since it's so hard to get at the batteries. I just use an outboard 12V pack instead. I have a very small 12V pack that I can just slip on my belt, and use that to power it. Besides, leaving out all those heavy batteries inside the 259 makes it a lot easier to handle. Speaking of "handles", this thing ought to have one. But I keep hoping MFJ will update this thing to a smaller and less power hungry version. Maybe someday. I also have an RF-1. I like it too. Now this thing is nice and small, and very easy to handle. It's not easy to tune however. A little jiggle of the knob, and you are several hundred khz away from your desired frequency. But I guess that's the price you pay for something so compact. I don't like the on/off switch either. It's too easy to trip if you pack this in a case or something, and then your battery goes south on you. So you need to disconnect the battery when not in use--probably a good practice anyway. The RF-1 goes with me usually when I go portable. It tells me just about everything I need to know when I set up my antenna. When not in use, you can just stick it in your pocket. All in all, I would vote for the RF-1. It's portability is really its strong suit as far as I am concerned. Now, the MFJ 259 displays a lot of info at one time, and that is a very helpful thing--you can see frequency, SWR, and impedence all at one time. But 9 times out of 10 I'm just trying to get my antenna tuned to a particular frequency, and the RF-1 tells me that just about as well as any of the other units would. A couple of switch flips, and you see the other info too. AND...(drum roll)--it's cheaper! It sure beats the Kuranishi and the Palstar in that category. An MFJ-269 is 100 bucks more than the MFJ-259, but you get UHF coverage. But even the MFJ-259 is more expensive than the RF-1, so let your pocket book be your guide. Dave W7AQK ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers
After 25 years of using a home built noise bridge to tune antennas, I love the MFJ 259B that my wife gave me for Christmas. It is a wonderful tool. I have had no problems with mine. It does eat batteries though, and there are a few on the list who remember Doug Hendricks, Dave Gauding and myself doing our best the Three Stooges act tuning one of the first NorCal Doublets at W5JAY's house 3 or 4 years back at Arkiecon. Among the comedy of errors included using W5JAY's MFJ 259B connected to an 24 AH Gel Cell. "I got tired of taking the back off to change those damn batteries" was Jay's explanation. The tool is no better than the craftsman using it. An antenna analyzer will not automatically help you to build a better antenna if you don't understand basic antenna and transmission line principles, but it will help you to understand those principles. I find the MFJ very valuable in the field to quickly verify that the antenna is operating OK. - Dr. Megacycle KK6MC/5 -- James R. Duffey KK6MC/5 Cedar Crest NM 87008 DM65 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] MFJ-259B
I have an MFJ-259B...I have mixed feelings about it...I can not complain about it's function, but I have had problems with the quality of the battery box and with customer support...The battery box is an inexpensive black plastic affair that holds ten "AA" cells...The combined tension of ten springs on the negative side of the cells is enough to distort the box causing intermittent operation and eventual failure of the battery box...The instrument has a built-in charger, but I now take the cells out of the instrument when it is not in use, and that is a pain... When my 259 was assembled at the factory, the screws holding the battery box in place were over-torqued creating hairline cracks radiating out like a spider web from the screws, resulting in eventual failure...It took several e-mails and snail-mails to MFJ to get them to even acknowledge me and send me a new battery box, which I had to pay for... Jerry, wa2dkg ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers
I've owned an Autek RF-1 and it has worked very well. Only "downside" is no way to do "vector" measurements (R+ or - jX). They have a new one out now that does that for $200. I do use a General Radio 1606 RF Bridge. It is big and cumbersome, requires a good signal generator (I use a G-R 1001, a URM-25 would do) and a receiver. I may spring for the newer Autek. Only thing that went bad in the one I have was the tuning capacitor for the generator. They are cheap and this time I bought a "spare"! 73, Sandy W5TVW - Original Message - From: "frank" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> To: Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 3:19 AM Subject: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers | I've owned two Autek RF-1 ant analyzers and both work perfectly. | Handy to put in your shirt pocket and climb a tower or take with | you on vacation. Best piece of equipment I have ever owned | that has saved me countless hours of antenna experimentation. | | I heard at one point they had a quality control issue. But it is | guaranteed for a year. The one I use today I purchased two years | ago. And the other one I bought in 1992 and both are still going | strong. Just replace the battery every year is all. I sort of | think the ones who are complaining so loudly about autek might | also be to blame for how they handle it as well. | | -- frank w7is | | | | ___ | Elecraft mailing list | Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net | You must be a subscriber to post to the list. | Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): | http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft | | Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm | Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com | ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] LAITF 2004 Results
Randy, K7TQ has been kind enough to send me the Results and Soapbox from the 2004 LAITF. It is available at: http://w2agn.net/laitf.html (click on "2004 Results") -- +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ John L. Sielke |W| |2| |A| |G| |N| [EMAIL PROTECTED] +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ +-+ http://w2agn.net Don't Miss QRP LAITF Contest May 7. See http://w2agn.net/laitf.html ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
RE: [Elecraft] Trying to get help, one more time...
Michael, An 8R voltage of 6.43 volts is an indication of something wrong there - it should be about 7.5 volts, no lower than 7.35 volts. Have you checked the input voltage (emitter) to Control Board Q2? (should be 8 volts unless the regulator output is low) and the base voltage (should be about 0.7 volts below the emitter voltage) - if both those conditions are true, the trnasistor should be conducting properly. Is the voltage at the drain of Q4 close to zero volts? If not, Q4 is not conducting properly - check the gate, it should be at least 4 volts (normally almost 5 volts). You may have something drawing too much current from the 8R line or Q2 or Q4 may be bad. 73, Don W3FPR > -Original Message- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED] Behalf Of Michael L. > Hasenfratz Sr. > Sent: Saturday, April 16, 2005 3:37 AM > To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net > Subject: [Elecraft] Trying to get help, one more time... > > > > Does anyone (i.e. Elecraft) know the Auxbus protocol? And > is the spec > available? > > I beleive, in trying to find out why the 8R voltage is at > 6.43v, I blew the > MCU (controller board) AuxBUS output. > > I only see pin 40 drop a few tens of millivolts during a band change > request. > > The IOC starts and stops the clock on power up, no relays > change and that's > all the RF board does. > > Info 080 is displayed during powerup and on a band change request. > > That says the IOC or the AuxBUS is in trouble. > > Since I didn't get any response for my last question, I'm > hoping this one > is more interesting to the readers. > > 73's de Mike WA6FXT > // [EMAIL PROTECTED] > // [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > > ___ > Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net > You must be a subscriber to post to the list. > Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Another Antenna Analyser
Francophone kit-builders will enjoy the site of F6BQU. For some reason my posting is sent back if I paste the right address; but you'll find him as lpistor using chez.tiscali.fr and then go to "Entree du site" then "la passion du radioamateurisme" and "mes realisations publiees dans la presse specialisee" and finally "Analyseur d'antennes compact 'Antan' ". I haven't built one yet myself but it looks like a fun thing to do! (Apologies to those in the know for lack of accents!) Regards to all, Pete, G0PKS. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] Re:Antenna analyzers
I also own an RF-1 and have been very pleased with it but found Autek's "customer service" to be non-responsive and arrogant when they did respond. Bob Baxter AA7EQ Walnut Ridge, Ar. > > There's things I'd change about both units (particularly the "customer > service" at Autek. I asked if there was a download available for my lost > manual, and they said "no, but we'll sell you a new one for $16..." For a > 5 page manual...? I'll do without, thank you very much!) but they're > indispensible tools at my bench. > > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re:Antenna analyzers
" are both junk..." It's really unfortunate that with the ham marketplace so small, that folks feel the need to slam the few suppliers we have. Certainly the Autek and MFJ units are not professional lab quality material. The good news is, neither are most of us. I've used both, and own the Autek, and find it one of the handiest tools I have at my bench. Yes, there's some things I would do better with BOTH units, but BOTH work fine for their intended purpose and both are affordable for the average ham. There's things I'd change about both units (particularly the "customer service" at Autek. I asked if there was a download available for my lost manual, and they said "no, but we'll sell you a new one for $16..." For a 5 page manual...? I'll do without, thank you very much!) but they're indispensible tools at my bench. Re: "endless horror stories from many hams..." For every one of those noisy stories, there's many times more satisfied customers. "Noisy" .NE. "correct" , in many cases. 73 John K5MO -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. Version: 7.0.308 / Virus Database: 266.9.12 - Release Date: 4/15/2005 ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] To drill or not to drill, that is the question
In a message dated 16/04/05 11:11:43 GMT Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes: What I use is a wooden cocktail stick ( bought in lots of 1000 for a quid from your local Pound Shop ) or a wooden toothpick that I have previously preformed by gently pushing it through an empty THP hole of the correct size. I then heat the hole to be cleared until the solder melts and then push the stick through the molten solder. Its easy, non destructive and very quick to do. I also use this wooden tool to prevent ingress of solder to ajacent holes when soldering a component located close to other THP holes. Reply What a good idea Mike. I had the misfortune to solder joints that should have been done later particularly on the K2 RF board. This idea would have saved me the grief of removing the solder in a THP hole that was required later without affecting other joints in the area. The builder who ended up having to buy a new board about a year back after clearing the THP holes with a Dremmel tool is a good testimony for not using a drill bit to clear solder. Bob, G3VVT ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] To drill or not to drill, that is the question
I don't think drilling out a THP hole is a very good idea. What I use is a wooden cocktail stick ( bought in lots of 1000 for a quid from your local Pound Shop ) or a wooden toothpick that I have previously preformed by gently pushing it through an empty THP hole of the correct size. I then heat the hole to be cleared until the solder melts and then push the stick through the molten solder. Its easy, non destructive and very quick to do. I also use this wooden tool to prevent ingress of solder to ajacent holes when soldering a component located close to other THP holes. hope this helps someone. atb Mike W, G8NXD qthr On 16 Apr 2005 at 9:11, Stephen wrote: > Gentlefolks, > > I did not explain myself very well in the previous post. What I did > was to > use a very small drill, with a diameter smaller that that of the hole, > and twist it gently between my fingers. This was sufficient to remove > enough of the solder to allow me to insert the component leads without > damaging the through hole plating. I was lucky enough to find a small > box of 50 or so PCB drills in different sizes, from very tiny through > to about 2 mm at a stall at Dayton some years back for, I think, $10. > > > I only resorted to this approach because my Weller de soldering > station, > which i was given for free seems to have developed a fault and I had > nothing else to hand. It is a Model DS 801, The symptom is that whilst > the tip heats up, no matter what the temperature setting, it will not > melt solder ;-(. The green LED flashes at about 1 Hz which is possibly > a fault indication. if anyone has a manual for one, or knows what the > fault is i would be greatful for some assistance. > > Of course the real answer is for me to pay more attention to the > manual in > the first place. ;-). It is a beautiful morning over here in Norfolk, > England...do I melt more solder...or garden...that is the > question. -- Stephen Farthing > ___ Elecraft mailing list > Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to > the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): > http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft > > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm > Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com > ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] AT in PA on Sunday
Hello, Since the temperature on Sunday in our area is going to be in the 70's. I plan on going out on the Appalachian Trail for a few hours to work towards my 500 QSO. Look for me starting around 14:00 UTC. I will start out of 15 and 20 meters to see if I can work into Europe. I will jump on 30 and 40 around 16:00 UTC. If you work me, please spot me on the DX Cluster and the QRP lists. 72 and Thanks, Ron Polityka WB3AAL www.wb3aal.com www.n3epa.org/ ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
Re: [Elecraft] To drill or not to drill, that is the question
A far safer method, Stephen, is to position a pin on one side of the board, held there with your index finger. Apply the iron to the other side of the board and as the solder melts gently push the pin through the hole. This then leaves a hole into which the component can be inserted. 73 de David G4DMP In a recent message, Stephen <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> said What I did was to use a very small drill, with a diameter smaller that that of the hole, and twist it gently between my fingers. This was sufficient to remove enough of the solder to allow me to insert the component leads without damaging the through hole plating. ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers
I've owned two Autek RF-1 ant analyzers and both work perfectly. Handy to put in your shirt pocket and climb a tower or take with you on vacation. Best piece of equipment I have ever owned that has saved me countless hours of antenna experimentation. I heard at one point they had a quality control issue. But it is guaranteed for a year. The one I use today I purchased two years ago. And the other one I bought in 1992 and both are still going strong. Just replace the battery every year is all. I sort of think the ones who are complaining so loudly about autek might also be to blame for how they handle it as well. -- frank w7is ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] To drill or not to drill, that is the question
Gentlefolks, I did not explain myself very well in the previous post. What I did was to use a very small drill, with a diameter smaller that that of the hole, and twist it gently between my fingers. This was sufficient to remove enough of the solder to allow me to insert the component leads without damaging the through hole plating. I was lucky enough to find a small box of 50 or so PCB drills in different sizes, from very tiny through to about 2 mm at a stall at Dayton some years back for, I think, $10. I only resorted to this approach because my Weller de soldering station, which i was given for free seems to have developed a fault and I had nothing else to hand. It is a Model DS 801, The symptom is that whilst the tip heats up, no matter what the temperature setting, it will not melt solder ;-(. The green LED flashes at about 1 Hz which is possibly a fault indication. if anyone has a manual for one, or knows what the fault is i would be greatful for some assistance. Of course the real answer is for me to pay more attention to the manual in the first place. ;-). It is a beautiful morning over here in Norfolk, England...do I melt more solder...or garden...that is the question. -- Stephen Farthing ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Re: Trying to get help, one more time...
Mike, The auxBus protocol is unique to Elecraft. I wrote the code, so I can answer your questions. Too late tonight, but I'll e-mail you directly tomorrow. 73, Wayne N6KR On Apr 16, 2005, at 12:36 AM, Michael L. Hasenfratz Sr. wrote: Does anyone (i.e. Elecraft) know the Auxbus protocol? --- http://www.elecraft.com ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
[Elecraft] Trying to get help, one more time...
Does anyone (i.e. Elecraft) know the Auxbus protocol? And is the spec available? I beleive, in trying to find out why the 8R voltage is at 6.43v, I blew the MCU (controller board) AuxBUS output. I only see pin 40 drop a few tens of millivolts during a band change request. The IOC starts and stops the clock on power up, no relays change and that's all the RF board does. Info 080 is displayed during powerup and on a band change request. That says the IOC or the AuxBUS is in trouble. Since I didn't get any response for my last question, I'm hoping this one is more interesting to the readers. 73's de Mike WA6FXT // [EMAIL PROTECTED] // [EMAIL PROTECTED] ___ Elecraft mailing list Post to: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net You must be a subscriber to post to the list. Subscriber Info (Addr. Change, sub, unsub etc.): http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft Help: http://mailman.qth.net/subscribers.htm Elecraft web page: http://www.elecraft.com
