Re: [Elecraft] Static mat repair?

2006-03-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
I would get a brass flat washer and solder  the wire to it.  Then, clamp the 
washer with the bolt.  Use a lock washer under the nut of the bolt and you 
are good to go.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] No more RS232 ComPort!!!

2006-03-08 Thread Stuart Rohre
A lot of times you can make RS 232 work even without the handshake lines 
like CTS, DTR, RTS.

You loop back pin 4 to 5 of the 25 pin D connector, and you hook 6, 8, and 
20 together.  2, and 3 are your transmit and receive, and pin 7 is the 
common.

Pin 1 is chassis ground, but do not share it with 7.

For 9 pin RS 232, Google RS 232 hook up and you should get diagrams of 
connectors commonly used.

GL,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Solder?

2006-03-06 Thread Stuart Rohre
Solder is a very subjective thing.

The thing to do with any solder unfamiliar to you is use it on some cables, 
components, connectors and evaluate the quality of joints it makes with your 
soldering tools, skill, etc.  You can see if it takes more or less heat than 
old solder you are familiar with.  You can see if it makes shiny, well 
wetted joints.  You can see if it has left over flux residue in excess to a 
other clean solders.

Make sure the formulation is suited to the heat range tip you have on your 
soldering iron.  Trying it out on real world components and cable is the 
best way to find out if it flows well, and makes a good joint.

Check the joints you make after a month for any signs of corrosion as a 
further test.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Coax Switch between two rigs

2006-03-03 Thread Stuart Rohre
My measurements on ham grade coax switches show 40 dB or less isolation 
between positions.

IN FACT, 60 dB is high even for a commercial grade switch.  The simple types 
from MFJ that are wires to a multiposition wafer switch do not shield quite 
long wire runs from the adjacent connectors.  Those are the long rectangular 
boxes with UHF jacks all in one row.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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[Elecraft] Correcting the parent co. of Multicore Solder

2006-03-03 Thread Stuart Rohre
The parent co. is now of the Loctite products group, who make thread locking 
compounds to paint on nuts and bolts.

(Permatex whom I thought of makes the gasket compound, or 'goop'.  Both 
products, Loctite and the gasket stuff are a kind of 'goop', thus the 
confusion.

Multicore Solders, formerly Ersin Co., now sold by Loctite.   Google 
Multicore Solders is how I found them awhile back.

Stuart
K5KVH
The reason prices on solders are up, is now Lead (PUB) is considered a 
hazardous substance.  You have to pay someone to recycle it.   And, the 
tin industry in Malaysia collapsed a few years ago when cheap tin became 
available from Brazil.  Now, lead (Pb) free solders will demand more use of 
tin solders, which may up the price of tin.  The combination plus the costs 
of certifying solders to be Lead free, contribute to price changing.  Kinks 
in the supply chain drives prices up, sometimes for unreasonable short term 
upheavals.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] KPA100 Fan Noise

2006-02-27 Thread Stuart Rohre
Ball bearing and similar fans have a longer life with quiet than sleeve 
bearing fans.  You might check out the offerings from Mouser in small fans.

-Stuart 



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Re: [Elecraft] Re:QRP Antenna

2006-02-23 Thread Stuart Rohre
Verticals are probably preferred for tight locations, and in any case have a 
nice low angle of radiation even given ground mounting, or low elevated 
mounting.  Of the two, if you can get the antenna up six or more feet, so 
much the better.  Then you could use gull wing elevated radials to improve 
it further without needing more than say 8 radials.  If you have few 
radials, be sure to put them in the directions of ham population centers.

Don't forget that you can use long path to advantage when attempting to work 
DX.   Long path can be skewed from the great circle projection so if the 
dipole is not aligned perfectly, it may still work for you.  When using an 
inverted Vee, you might get some gain putting a director wire slanted on 
one side, to augment radiation in the desired direction.  The sloping Vee 
beam idea from Ten Tec is also of merit for the higher bands when they are 
open.  100 foot legs or more, and try to have the antenna 30 feet high at 
the apex of the vee, where you feed it.  Ten Tec model is terminated, but 
non terminated is easier, and then will give you bi-directional coverage, 
albeit one at a high angle and the other low.  Still might make for 
interesting DX.  I have used 5 wave legs on a Vee beam at 10 meters, and I 
can testify that is a DX burner!

-Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] QRP Antenna

2006-02-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
Ron makes a good point about an antenna backed by an upslope, such that the 
antenna is below the highest objects, be it hill or house.

You can possibly get more interesting contacts by arranging a rotating guy 
ring to which to attach the high point of the antenna.   Then, get some 
rebar to act as temporary tie off points for the ends.  When the propagation 
is not good in one direction, rotate the whole line of the antenna wire to 
other directions and tie off to another pair of rebar or other anchors. 
Wood fence posts work, too, as tie off points.  Allow some insulated guy 
line between the antenna end insulators and the tie off if anchor is metal 
re bar.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Electrostatic ground

2006-02-16 Thread Stuart Rohre
To adequately ground for electrostatic charges does not require a 
connection to physical earth at all.
In fact whether to use a strap at all depends on your local temperature and 
humidity at the work station.  Dry cold winter weather is more risk than a 
wet spring unless you have a cold air conditioned lab in which you are 
working, that has dry air.

You establish a ground plane or conductive pad under the chassis or board 
you are working on.  To this is attached a wrist strap thru a coiled cord. 
There is a current limiting resistor in the commercial cord/ strap set ups 
to limit any surge to the human.  The idea is to have the human and the 
board or chassis at the same voltage, (potential) before you touch the board 
with your hands or tools.  Once you pick up the part or tool, your wrist 
strap discharges anything on the part/ tool.  When you insert the part in 
the chassis or board that is grounded to the conductive pad, you have 
removed the danger of a spark.

Check the web sites of some of the manufacturers by Googling  static 
discharge tools.  There should be some application notes to further discuss 
precautions.

73,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Wanted: circuit diagram

2006-02-08 Thread Stuart Rohre
The standard circuit Ten Tec uses to test their noise blankers is a relay 
wired to open its own coil circuit and then remake.  The arcing at the 
contacts makes a good close by test source for this.

73,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] QRP viability during solar cycle min?

2006-01-12 Thread Stuart Rohre
L. B. Cebik reports favorably on vertical dipoles at Cebik.com.  When 
elevated sufficiently; since they are a complete antenna, not requiring a 
radial set; they radiate quite well at DX angles.  See www.cebik.com
-Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Open Wire Feed Line Arrestor

2006-01-06 Thread Stuart Rohre
The device is stated to have toroid cores on each side of the line conductor 
so as to provide a DC short to the antenna side of the box.   On the 
transmit side, it may be AC coupled, which is fine when the right size cap 
is used for RF.  The cores with their windings act as RF chokes while 
allowing a DC bleed off for any antenna charge.

There was a similar device, (maybe the same reviewed in QST (?CQ) with a 
photo of the inside and it had pretty much the same circuit.  Think that was 
last year or the year before.

-Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Horizontal Loop Antenna

2005-12-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
Whether you will get good results with your loop under the shingles depends 
on the amount of metal flashing on the edges of your roof.  Also, on the 
amount of metal enclosed by it in your attic.  we tried one on a Red Cross 
building that had perimeter flashing and even on standoff insulators, the 
loop was a poor performer.  The insulators were 5 inches away from the 
flashing.  Perhaps the flashing was the shorted turn syndrome.

A dipole NVIS antenna has worked much better above this particular 
commercial flat roof.

Under the roof were red iron bar joists, which also are grounded.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Doublet Antennas (WAS: Helix-wound EDP)

2005-12-14 Thread Stuart Rohre
A lot of these antenna ideas have been modeled by L. B. Cebik, W4RNL at his 
excellent antenna web site:  www.cebik.com
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 Antenna Recommendations

2005-11-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
For 20 meters and up, the Minuteman antenna I have has been very good in 
performance and ease of use.

It does require some guying in a wind, and I modified the upper section to 
have another PVC pipe section to provide more Velcro attachments to 
stabilize the collapsible whip.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer

2005-11-14 Thread Stuart Rohre
You can determine the sign of the reactance by simply tuning higher in 
frequency.  IF the reactance increases it is inductive, if it DECREASES, it 
is capacitive reactance.  Remember the basic formula for inductive is Xl = 
2Pi fL, while the inverse formula is for capacitive reactance, thus it 
decreases with frequency increase.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] 2005 MID-MO ARC (N0SS/0) FIELD DAY RESULTS

2005-10-17 Thread Stuart Rohre
The rules are pretty clear, what ever stations you run, free ones included, 
the highest power run determines the class of operation.  If in battery 
class all stations have to be on battery at 5 watts!! No exceptions.

I have always thought that the arbitrary 5 watts for both CW and phone modes 
was contrary to QRP ARCI and other QRP club international convention where 
for many years QRP has been agreed as 5 Watts for CW was equivalent to 10 
Watts SSB, due to duty cycle of speech.  However, we persevered and our club 
did 5 watts SSB and got 4th in our class and in top ten a number of years 
when sun spots were good.
72,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] POW Receiver

2005-10-13 Thread Stuart Rohre
Frank,
There are steel blades still sold at Home Depot for painting clean up of 
windows.  Single edge razor blades.

Now if the school official crazies won't stomach those, you can simple 
substitute some plated metal or even a rusty slip of steel.  I wonder if a 
scrap of blue banding metal tape would work??   You are looking for the 
surface of the steel to be plated and that creating a dissimilar metal 
junction and hence a diode.  You could also simply sub a 1N34 glass diode.

I wonder if you could grind off the sharp edge of single edge blades to 
still use them?  They have a metal clamp piece that could be held easily by 
vice grips to present the sharp blade edge to a grinder wheel.  The sweet 
spot on the old blades was reputed to be along the engraved logo on the 
blade.  I am not sure the mass produced import blades sold for paint 
scraping still have an etched logo or name section.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] POW Receiver

2005-10-13 Thread Stuart Rohre
I wonder if the blue blades are the same steel coating procedure as bluing a 
gun barrel?  If so, you can get solution for treating steel at most gun 
shops that cater to those restoring firearms.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Low angle radiation antennas?

2005-10-05 Thread Stuart Rohre
Tom see the Cebik Antenna pages, www.cebik.com for optimizing the feedpoint 
of a Delta up the side of the triangle for lower angles of radiation.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Recommended Solder

2005-09-28 Thread Stuart Rohre
My experience of 47 years of use of Multicore solders is that they give 
superior wetability, and flow, and clean up to ordinary wire solder such as 
Radio Shack solder.  It is easier to use Multicore flux to get a better 
cleaned joint and hence easier to solder with less heat exposure to the 
components.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft. G5RV Question

2005-09-26 Thread Stuart Rohre
The 80 m dipole feed with ladder line and a tuner can work well even with 
multi lobes on the higher bands.

See any edition of the ARRL Antenna book or handbook for typical patterns, 
or www.cebik.com antenna web site for patterns.  If you take into account 
the lobe directions you will have fine results.

Just orient so that lobes are mainly in directions of ham populations on the 
higher bands.

Stuart
K5KVH 




Re: [Elecraft] Two Band Moxon/wire beam

2005-09-26 Thread Stuart Rohre
Charles,
With dual band close spaced beams, everything interacts.

You can try adjusting the wire lengths by the percentage you were off your 
target frequency, or just operate them as they fell.  They will vary with 
height, and there is no compelling need to have them exactly resonant in 
cases like this, as long as your are getting about the beam action you want.

Your SWR actual at 21 feet seem to be OK for operations.  Or just use a 
tuner to touch up the match.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Elecraft. G5RV Question

2005-09-26 Thread Stuart Rohre
Certainly, traps and baluns may contribute some losses as well as loading 
coils may.

Tune losses in a decent tuner are pretty low, unless you are trying to match 
outside its design range.

There is no advantage save not having a reactance term to match out, to 
having resonance on the antenna.

You will not get significantly more out of the resonant antenna, if the 
reactance canceling means is high efficiency.  In other words you cannot 
hear the difference between a resonant antenna and one near resonant.

See the writings of various antenna authors such as Cebik, Walt Maxwell, (in 
Reflections) and others such as Bill Orr.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] An Opportunity for CW Ops

2005-09-14 Thread Stuart Rohre
hello all,
You can go to ARRL.org web site and download lists of nets by area, freq., 
mode, etc.

73,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Solder requests - STOP

2005-09-14 Thread Stuart Rohre
Some of us in US are getting any remaining stocks of genuine lead solders 
from Multicore (former Ersin).

They have been bought by another us co. but a google search of Multicore 
Solders should give you their web site, and their dealers.   Some dealers 
will have NOS for awhile.  I have a couple of three pounds I hope will do my 
kits to build and scratch built needs.  Since my first roll of Ersin 
Multicore solder lasted 40 years and several projects, I think 3 pounds 
might do the trick.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Static Bleeder?

2005-09-13 Thread Stuart Rohre
Resistors are fine.  Our club uses 2 each 100K ohm, one for each side of the 
ladder line to earth tent stake.

Each resistor is carbon 2w.
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Emergency Nets (was: Dropping the Code Test)

2005-09-13 Thread Stuart Rohre
Craig,
You ARE on the wrong frequencies, listen on 40 by day and 80 by night to 
Gulf Coast nets.
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] CW in Emergencies?

2005-09-06 Thread Stuart Rohre
Dave,
Much emergency traffic can be handled with QRP phone rigs using NVIS 
antennas consisting of a low dipole for 40 and 80 plus a reflector wire 
about a foot off ground.  It works like a 2 element beam and easily covers a 
couple of states.

I have uses such a beam on 40m from Austin TX to Mobile AL, which is 3 
states away.  Granted that was with 100 watts, but I was 20 over 9 in TX 
North, South and East of me at the same time.

Other Emergency traffic is FM VHF or UHF and local to one county in most 
cases.

NTS techniques can be taught for phone just as well as CW.

72,
Stuart
K5KVH
Red Cross Comms Officer, Katrina Relief 



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: CW in Emergencies? (WAS: Dropping the Code Test)

2005-09-06 Thread Stuart Rohre
The problem in the affected areas was the flooding of power sources or total 
destruction of antennas, and structures.

Hams need strike teams with HF NVIS and VHF portable capability to work 
inside the affected areas.

Well planned Disaster Plans include this.  LA. was woefully negligent, at 
least on the state and City officials' part in New Orleans.  They had  a 
plan, (its on the NET), but they did not follow the plan.  The plan said use 
their school and city buses and evacuate people.  A lot of people who were 
supposed to implement the plan bailed out of town or did not know the plan. 
They also had all the other elements required for Federal aid, such as 
emergency communications mentioned in plan.
BUT,
They would not allow Red Cross to enter although we prepositioned units in 
N. La./ Ms. border.  They would not allow radio units in; and would not 
allow Feds to take the National Guard over, and put them into New Orleans 
until several days passed.

The break down of Police order, and the bad guys who did not evacuate, in 
order to take advantage of property while everyone was gone, was the major 
factor cited to us.

The wage of the entering officer in PD New Orleans is so low, that it is 
surprising the force did not resign en mass.

Hams do need to make NVIS dipoles and reflectors and keep them rolled up in 
their ARES GO KIT.  They need HF skill to use 40 by day and 80 by night to 
handle messaging.  They need charged batteries, and you can always find some 
low tree or fence left to tie an NVIS dipole to.  If some had had NVIS 
dipoles up even during the main winds, they would have been able to stay on 
the air at say 50 watts and still cover a couple of states or more on 40m. 
We use NVIS dipoles plus reflector 3 feet high for the dipole, and one foot 
high for reflector.  Use insulated wire, some strong kevlar rope or line, 
and you are on the air in minutes.

Made of ladder line or twin lead as a folded dipole, the NVIS one will match 
directly to 50 ohm coax.  The normal 300 ohm folded dipole center feed 
becomes 1/4 less when low, or about 60 ohms.

Stuart
K5KVH
ARES AEC
Red Cross Comms. 



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: OT: Affected areas/ net frequencies

2005-09-01 Thread Stuart Rohre
Well, John is with his unit and deployed even before the hurricane struck. 
His priority is the Red Cross satellite phone traffic, and Red Cross radio 
band.
-Stuart
K5KVH
Red Cross Austin 




Re: [Elecraft] Measuring Inductance with the MFJ-259

2005-08-29 Thread Stuart Rohre
The Elecraft designers have stated in past discussions that Coil Dope is not 
needed if you wind your toroids tight.  Remember, that the dielectric 
constant of Coil Dope can change your tuning of the coil.  It would be 
alright to use a few drops on ends of winding as an aid, but a lot could be 
a problem.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Compromise/Limited Space/Make My Day Antenna Advice

2005-08-23 Thread Stuart Rohre
Hi Thom,
The loop can be a antenna of choice for QRN/ QRM areas.  The end fed antenna 
being unbalanced may have more noise than the loop.  You will end up with 
more of a rectangular loop, or a horizontal Hentenna.

For the higher bands, 20 and up you might investigate the compact beam 
designs like the Moxon rectangle.

You might have to consider a loaded dipole.  Even a loaded dipole, although 
shorter, will also carry the advantage of being a balanced antenna with 
fewer feeding unknowns.

I would avoid running over neighbor's roofs, etc. and keep your antenna on 
your own property.

Now you might try vertical dipoles.   Sleeving the feed by bringing it down 
inside the tubing has shown on the Gap Titan, that the result is less noise 
pickup than with conventional quarter wave dipoles.  A vertical of the half 
wave type, with linear decouplers for various bands can be a very good DX 
antenna when the bands are open.

GL,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 tinny speaker

2005-08-18 Thread Stuart Rohre
Craig,
this comes up from time to time.  Check the speaker mounting for the screws 
being overly tight and distorting the speaker frame.  Or check that the 
frame is not bent or warped.  You have to dismount the speaker to check 
that.

Don't overly tighten the speaker mounting screws when you replace it. 
Sometimes, pressing two fingers near the voice coil will remove distortion 
showing that the voice coil is either under tension or is warped in its 
centering in the magnet field.

Most of these cases turned out to be too much torque in mounting the speaker 
hardware to the top plate.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Leather Case for K2

2005-08-17 Thread Stuart Rohre
You can find many suitable cases at places selling to other markets than ham 
radio.

One time, I realized a lot of QRP rigs fit the insulated coolers for six 
packs.  Makes a good way to store your rig in a car full time.

Larger cases with room for air to circulate would work for operational field 
cases.  Check out old camera gadget bags with hard sides at used camera 
stores or pawn shops.

Stuart
K5KVH 




Re: [Elecraft] routine question

2005-08-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
How about a roll of 1 lb. solder lasting 40 years?

If you do not use much solder on joints, it will last that long thru a dozen 
kits and projects.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Lightning strikes

2005-08-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
 A choke will bleed off the static charges, but can be easily blown by too 
much static voltage opening the winding.  Instead put a 100,000 ohm 2 watt 
resistor across the feed line.  It will allow the full power RF to pass, but 
take the static to ground, if the line feeder is coax.  If not coax, put a 
resistor from each balanced conductor to ground.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Low Antenna on Mountain Top

2005-08-12 Thread Stuart Rohre
The definition of Marconi antenna is that it is quarter wave.

A half wave antenna is called a Hertz antenna in some older literature.

Stuart
K5KVH 




Re: [Elecraft] Low antennas in high places

2005-08-11 Thread Stuart Rohre
No matter what the ground conductivity is at a given hill top located 
antenna, what is shown in one ARRL Antenna Compendium piece on gains from an 
antenna near the edge of, and atop a hill, is that you are no longer 
shadowing say, a dipole parallel to the cliff face from radiating at angles 
below zero degrees.  (Zero being parallel to the horizon, and any angle 
below horizon being called negative for this discussion.)

This signal, which is usually absorbed by nearby earth in the near field for 
conventional dipoles on flat ground, may have enough space to radiate quite 
a ways at a low or negative angle, then it might reflect in the Fresnel 
zone, (far field), or even just a few wavelengths from the hill.   In any 
case, by the laws of wave reflection, angle of incidence equals angle of 
reflection, and thus the ground reflection will head for the ionosphere at a 
very favorable for DX, low angle of take off.  Thus, the advantage of a 
horizontal antenna near the cliff edge on top of a hill.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Elecraft Digest, Vol 16, Issue 11

2005-08-11 Thread Stuart Rohre
Another thing about modern computers and lower noise therein, is they use a 
10 MHz master clock then dither it, and multiply it to the Gigahertz max 
speeds.   Thus instead of a single spur at a frequency, they have the clock 
energy spread over a band with each frequency having less power.

And, modern logic families are going to lower voltages, no more 3.5 to 5 
volt TTL.  2 volts and less will be used to lessen the swing of voltages.

The dithered clocks may be the biggest improvement to computer noise, since 
cabinets are still all plastic.
However, they incorporate tin shields over some critical areas like the 
switching power supply and use ferrites and line filters there.

Stuart
K5KVH




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Re: [Elecraft] Low antennas in high places

2005-08-10 Thread Stuart Rohre
This past Field Day, we used some NVIS dipoles atop a hill in Austin TX. 
There was a sharp drop to the east and to the West.

We not only worked obvious NVIS range signals; but worked a number of skip 
signals from antennas no more than 7 feet high at the highest.  The 40m 
antenna was only 3 1/2 feet high.

We think the drop off enhanced the ability of these low antennas.  Signals 
on 75m to the NW coast were 5,6 to 5,7 consistently, but contacts were 
relatively easy to make.  If you heard a station, he could hear you.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Interference from Computers-Routers

2005-08-10 Thread Stuart Rohre
Maybe Paul, you have a better grounding scheme.
Part of good grounding, is to run a computer used with a radio from the same 
power strip.   IF the computer is NOT used with radio, have it separated or 
on different power circuit.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Low antennas in high places

2005-08-10 Thread Stuart Rohre
Paul,
NVIS (Near Vertical Incidence Skywave) dipoles or antennas are any antenna 
operated at low elevations above ground from lying on ground to being say 
0.1 wave high, and certainly well below conventional heights for that 
antenna.  They are horizontal dipoles usually a half wave type, or tuned, if 
shorter.

They are used to increase your signal level at a few hundred miles by firing 
straight up at 80 to 90 degrees with most of your signal, and minimizing 
pickup of low angle noise.  However, they also can have a skip component of 
signal allowing 5,7 operation on SSB out to West Coast from here in Central 
TX.

In state, they increase a 100 watt signal from S8 to 20 over S9, by lowering 
the same antenna!

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] ATU efficiency and the Elecraft T1

2005-08-09 Thread Stuart Rohre
Another answer for Darrell, is that a balun is designed to see equal antenna 
halves either side of it.  (on its balanced side).

There is no advantage to using one on an end fed dipole.

If you were to feed with coax, to an end fed dipole, and that coax is 
quarter wave long, you would transform the high impedance of around 3000 
ohms at the end of dipole to something lower at the other end of coax.  But, 
because the coax is low impedance and the dipole end is high, you would have 
a lot of feedline loss from The SWR reflections.

That is the reason, low loss (with high SWR) parallel high impedance lines 
like ladder line or open wires are used to feed end fed dipoles.  You use a 
link at the tuner to couple to such lines.  The tuner has a tank coil and 
capacitor to tune it to each band of use.

The link has fewer turns than the LC tank, but can also have a cap for 
tuning.

If you had any RF issues on the tuner metal case, you could try a 1:1 cable 
choke formed by ferrite beads strung on a short coax, and that would then 
couple to the balanced line, if you were not using link coupling to the 
radio tuner.  However, use of the link and the isolation it affords, also 
reduces the pickup of suburban electrical noise.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] ATU efficiency and the Elecraft T1

2005-08-08 Thread Stuart Rohre
L. B. Cebik, W4RNL, explored the im balance of the end fed Zepp antenna, 
a half wave with open wire feed where one side of the wire connects to 
nothing, and the other to the antenna end element.

That would seem to be the extreme case of current imbalance but he found 
typically, there is only 10 per cent less current in one conductor at the 
rig end, than the other.  The line seems to divide the power available, 
rather than one wire being a true zero current.

This was done for a floating system, or a closed system, ie dipole in space, 
no other ground.  That would pretty well approach the floating system you 
have used on rock.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] zs6bkw antenna for qrp

2005-08-08 Thread Stuart Rohre
Hi Reggie, I built my own and adapted it to my supports available, (too low 
for the 40 feet of ladder line for my version.)

What did I do to make it the K5KVH antenna?

I put the ladder line horizontal, from the center, to a tree, and a back 
stay guy to the center insulator to keep dipole straight.

Works great and I was able to use it QRP or 100 watts and no problems with 
mainly SSB.

It is best antenna I ever had on 40 and 20, over many years of verticals, 
dipoles, and long wires as well as a Marconi.  Worked lots of DX and it was 
able to work short and long skip well.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer sensitivity to near-field effects

2005-08-03 Thread Stuart Rohre
It is very true that antenna analyzers are affected adversely, without 
filtering, in the near field of transmitters such as AM stations.

Here at the research lab, we are about a mile from a directional AM station. 
One of the popular antenna analyzers gave swinging SWR meter readings 
following the AM station modulation.  It was necessary to eye ball average 
the swings to a value for what we were measuring at 400 MHz!

Now there are filters sold for that AM interference.
The other way of dealing with the directional station is to wait and do 
measurements after sundown when they reduce power in our direction.  Many 
stations drop power in all directions at sundown to avoid skip interference 
to others.

Near field can be distinguished from far field by knowing that the energy is 
leaving the antenna in all directions in the near field, and has not reached 
a planar directional wave front appearance.  In the far field, you can find 
the wave has its plane wave orientation, and the distinguishing character of 
the field by horizontal or vertical polarization of the electric component.

Near field can be out to a couple of wavelengths, and far field beyond that, 
as a rough generalization. 



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzer sensitivity to near-field effects

2005-08-03 Thread Stuart Rohre
Hmm, I am not sure what that would mean, an analyzer that can see near field 
effects.

The in line analyzers indirectly might show near field effects simply by 
being interfered with by strong RF nearby.

Almost anywhere on the boat that is away from structure and conductors will 
have the same HF efficiency, if a full size HF antenna, or nearly so.

To really have differing efficiency, you would have to be able to move 
things at least a quarter to half wave to see an effect.  I am thinking you 
mean a pleasure boat and not a larger yacht.   Most small boats just don't 
give you many options.   You probably need to place the vertical well aft, 
out of the way of sail apparatus if a sail boat.  On a motor boat, you could 
be anywhere along the center line.  Probably the most important efficiency 
aid is to have wide straps going to a keel ground plate or plates.  The more 
metal in contact with the water the better.

Most sail boats have a very effective/ efficient antenna in loading the back 
stay guy of the mast as a sloper, rather than using a true vertical.  Such 
an antenna will have some vertical and thus low angle take off component off 
the beam of the boat.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] Heat related issue

2005-08-02 Thread Stuart Rohre
Yeah Steve, there is a fix, it is called shading the Radio!

You probably exceeded the temperature limits of inside components.

I had a tuner that kept getting out of adjustment at Field Day one year. 
Finally, I realized that the sun angle had changed to bear directly on the 
dark case and the inductor was heating up and changing value.
Put some shade over the rig by moving it on table and everything went back 
to normal.

GL,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: Re: [Elecraft] Heat related issue

2005-08-02 Thread Stuart Rohre
The use of a fan does not violate any Field Day rules.

No electronics save Mil Spec is really built to sit out in the sun.  Provide 
shade at least, and forced air cooling to give long life to your finals and 
components.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2, PSK31 microphone

2005-08-01 Thread Stuart Rohre
The transformer is to break the ground loop of having the computer ground 
connected to the RF chassis ground of the radio and producing possible 
ground loop currents.  In that case, you defeat the transformer if you 
connect the computer case to radio case.

The computer case ground should be the 3rd pin on AC plug, and use that one 
alone for computer.  That will correct any voltage difference due to a line 
filter in computer.

Some audio lines are floating, and the transformer gives them a reference 
known load.  The transformer is the way its done in commercial broadcasting 
to avoid hum problems.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] speaker problem

2005-07-29 Thread Stuart Rohre
It is a good idea to use a pigtail adapter if one is going from a small jack 
on a radio to a larger jack for legacy headphones that you prefer.

Simply create a plug, pigtail of suitable audio flexible cable, and a jack 
to accomplish the transition without an adapter putting heavy weight onto 
the radio jack.

Allow enough length for the adapter to be supported on the operating table 
surface.

In line jacks might be hard to come by.  However, a suitable protective boot 
can be fashioned over a conventional large jack with shrink tubing.  Use as 
many sizes as you need to adapt from the back of the jack down to a smaller 
size for strain relief contact with the cable, telescoping one piece into 
another.

Such adapters have allowed me to use 1950's high sensitivity military 
headphones on the most modern radios, with good results.

I have done microphone adapters the same way, to switch from one brand of 
radio to another without changing the mike plug.  A quarter inch jack will 
fit the body of some electronic push button switches that have a rectangular 
box structure that fits behind a rack panel.  Just unscrew the switch guts, 
and use the box for the jack.  The shrink tubing trick closes the back of 
the box as well.

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] KX-1 antenna question

2005-07-28 Thread Stuart Rohre
Terry, you want the part of the antenna in the air to be the longer piece. 
And the highest piece for best results.  Any antenna configuration that 
bends the antenna back upon itself will detract from the overall working as 
an antenna, even if it makes the SWR look good.  Remember, a light bulb 
may give you low SWR but will not work many stations.
Same as the dummy load is excellent 1:1 SWR for it is 50 ohms; but NO DX 
antenna!

Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Speaker Replacement

2005-07-27 Thread Stuart Rohre
James,
Before replacing, it may be that you only knocked it off center of the voice 
coil.

Take out the speaker and view it from all angles.  Is the Cone off center?

If the thing looks like it is, you might put three fingers and thumb equally 
around edge of voice coil at narrow end of cone, and push in gently and 
release.  This might restore the centering.  If not, you have not lost much 
time.

There is also the possibility that you had such as strong signal that you 
magnetized part of the frame of the speaker.  That is more tricky, but you 
might use a compass to see if symmetrical positions around the speaker frame 
circumference the compass needle deflects the same amount.  You do this by 
putting speaker in a circle you have drawn on paper by tracing around the 
magnet.  Now, carefully tie a string onto compass so that you may keep it a 
defined distance from the framework as you move it to differing positions. 
Keep string taut between frame and compass for each datapoint.  You could 
record the amplitudes as so many degrees from North, 0 degrees.

If you find a very unsymmetrical magnetic field plot, you might as well 
order a replacement speaker from Elecraft.  You might be able to degauss the 
frame with a VCR tape hand held degausser of the Hockey Puck style that Hi 
Fi shops used to sell, but you do not want to degauss the permanent magnet 
at the back of the cone.

GL, 73,
Stuart
K5KVH 



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Re: [Elecraft] License Exams

2005-07-25 Thread Stuart Rohre
True you do not have to have a license to take all the tests up to Extra,
BUT,
You do have to take the element that makes up the Technician test, just as
you have to take all the elements after Tech, to then take the Extra test.

You cannot just take one or two elements for a particular level, unless you
are licensed already as Tech or General, and have only to take the Extra
written test for Extra Class license.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Sad day

2005-07-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
I invite those seeking answers to why the code testing requirement was
dropped to read the FCC's definition of the ham radio service given in the
NPRM, as well as the detailed FCC comments to each of the petitions they
considered.

They clearly made a case of why test by mode, as CW is a mode; when there
are so many other modes.

They also made it clear the VEC was free to establish the test topics based
on input from the tested community and existing ham operators.

So, when the time to revise question pools is announced; be sure to notify
the VEC of what you would believe hams should be tested upon.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Replacement Hand Microphone

2005-07-20 Thread Stuart Rohre
You can either use a high impedance to low transformer for the D104 mike, or
get one of the D104 amplified mikes which has a impedance converting
transistor circuit in its base, able to drive low impedance modern
microphone inputs.

The crystal high impedance element of the 104 needs to look into a high
impedance to avoid altering the tone response.  It will sound good, if
properly terminated into the right circuit.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] no, it isn't a knob, it's a...

2005-07-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
Ah, OK thanks for the update---

Depending on how you wire this particular key, ie have jumper on two side
wires, and common on lever, you COULD use it as a sideswiper, (sidewise
key).



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Re: [Elecraft] Station grounding question

2005-07-14 Thread Stuart Rohre
Hi Glenn,
Let me jump in here and comment.   A Ufer ground is for 60 Hz and safety
grounding only.  It probably is not such a good RF ground, as that would
depend on its wavelength relationships, ie how big is it in terms of
wavelengths you use, what is it's capacitance to the dirt, what is the
inductance of its embedded rebar, what is your local ground conductivity.
How well are the rebar elements bonded to each other, and are they cad
welded, so that rusting of tie wires holding rebars is not an issue re the
resistance of the conductors?

Many hams probably confuse RF ground and earth/ safety ground, (or AC
grounding).  They are separate issues, although the RF ground should bond,
for lightning safety, to the AC ground per the National Electrical Code.
(All house grounds to be bonded).  A single ground rod has poor chances of
being low enough inductance and high enough capacitance to be adequate for
RF coupling to the earth.  Its area is too small.   Grounds thru an
intermediate medium, as the Ufer ground is, are also not the best candidate
to be an RF ground, depending on local conditions.

To have a good RF reference or counterpoise, we have to have a resonant or
near resonant conductor.  This is usually taken to be a quarter wave of
insulated conductor leading out from the chassis of the transceiver.  That
will lessen RF on the rig problems.  This can be used and then a simple
bonding of the rig to the other AC safety grounds can be used.  That keeps
your rig from having a greatly different voltage upon its case than the AC
wiring in case of lightning.

  If we have a connection to a rod, it does not have a good RF earthing
characteristic, because of the small area of the rod, the usually round
conductor used to bond the rod, and the length of the run of conductor to
the rod.   The grounding (RF) conductor must not be odd multiples of a
quarter wave for the band in use or you will have a high impedance possible
at the rig.

The goal in safety grounding for lightning mitigation is to spread out the
current from a strike or surge into the earth.   One such method that
satisfies the 10 ohm rule for AC earth grounds is 200 feet of bare no. 10
conductor put around the building perimeter.  It does not have to be buried
many feet deep, for it works by area in contact with earth.  Such an
extensive added earth conductor would augment your Ufer ground and give you
added protection by bonding to it.  Depending on the local state of earth at
your QTH, this may or not, be adequate for your RF ground.  The compounds of
the earth around you may be poor RF conductors.  In those cases, you
generally have to add more low inductance area to your grounding scheme.
Wide flat copper is one of the best conductors to use.  Plates can be
buried, and multiple rods are sometimes used.

Hope that distinguishes the two types of grounding you need for safety and
for low RF impedance to earth.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] no, it isn't a knob, it's a...

2005-07-14 Thread Stuart Rohre
It's a sideswiper.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Two and three element Yagi design data

2005-07-07 Thread Stuart Rohre
Another resource especially for Moxons is the L. B. Cebik antenna website,
(W4RNL):   www.cebik.com

Almost every kind of antenna is modeled there and much good info on limits
of models also.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Outbacker vs. buddipole etc.

2005-06-30 Thread Stuart Rohre
Erik,
Each of the listed antennas has a good design and application.  The Bug
Catcher is more a mobile antenna, and needs radials to work portable.
It will need a mobile base adapted to a portable stand.

The Outbacker is a mobile antenna that now comes with radial kit and
stand,but is short for the bands, and limited bandwidth.  You will need a
tuner.  Same as above about mounting, although Alpha Delta sells one which
is pricy.

The Outbacker is a short helical monopole, and thus incomplete without
radials, as was Bug Catcher a short coil loaded monopole.

The Hustler is mainly a mobile antenna also, and same applies.
Of the ones you list, the most sturdy for portable ops and designed for that
task is the Buddipole.  It is a coil loaded dipole, so does not need
separate radials set up.  It comes with sturdy parts, I studied them at Ham
Com in June, and visited extensively with the company designer/ owner.
I am not easily impressed but I was.   The Buddipole is being deployed with
Embassy and other groups from Uncle.

The Buddipole has two versions, one breaks down into attache case sized
pieces.  You can get a sturdy plastic hard case or a nice bag of nylon to
carry it.  It has a stand you can set it up either as horizontal dipole or
vertical dipole or sloping.  Very flexible rig.  The parts are rugged and
top quality all the way.

There is another antenna for 3 bands that does not require a tuner.  You tap
up on common loading air dux type coil.  It is all made of PVC pipe
sections, and a 6 foot telescoping whip.  However, over all, it is not as
rugged as Buddipole, and needs a couple of mods to work better.  One is to
add a six inch PVC pipe to the top pipe section.  This is to add one more
velcro tie around the whip to keep it vertical in wind.

The other mod is to add hairpin clips available at Home Depot to the base H
support pipes Center Tee piece, to avoid it rotating in wind conditions and
laying over the antenna in mid QSO.  You have to drill the pipes to attach
these clips to lock the Tee and pipes from rotation.

 You have to provide coax with UHF plug for the Minuteman connector.  The
assembly is quick and simple after you do it a couple of times.  The antenna
comes in a cardboard box about two plus feet long, but no bag or case.  Go
to Container store and get that.  It comes with sets of radials to deploy
from a stud with wing nut. It works great, just not too sturdy in windy
areas.  After mods, mine is MUCH better.  You need some weights to put on
the ends of the H base to keep the light pipe assembly from blowing over in
wind.  Rocks or bricks work, or bury the H in sand at beach.  Minuteman had
a web page last I looked.

GL,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Your solder may be no clean

2005-06-27 Thread Stuart Rohre
Joe,
I mis-remembered, saying Permatex's parent co.  It is the Loctite parent
co. that now owns Multicore Solders.  Henkle.

However , google on Multicore Solders brings up the distributor list from
the link I will embed here.
http://www.motionnet.com/cgi-bin/search.exe?a=scno=7823


Where are you located?   Among the electronic distributors carrying
Multicore solders around the country (USA) are:  Carlton Bates Co.,
Digi Key, Electrotex 800 460 1801; Industrial Electronics 800 242 7204 in
WI.  And in TX:   North Texas Distributing Co. 800 553-6168.

I think awhile back, there was a group buy on the QRP reflector of Multicore
lead solder from Carlton Bates.   I see on the Multicore factory page they
already sell no lead solders, so you better hurry to get your traditional
solder for repairs and construction before it is no longer made or allowed
to be sold.  The new solders are NOT compatible with the leads and tinning
on some components, so should not be used in making repairs to existing
equipment made with lead solders originally.

Since I have found Kester Solders to not perform to my lab's exacting
standards for military prototypes, I have not kept up on their part nos.  I
cannot advise on the one you list.  Please consult the Kester web page.

GL,
Stuart
K5KVH  -- If you Google on a Brand or key word description, almost
everything is on the web.  (See my sidebar about web resources in parts
searches in the 2005 ARRL Handbook.)



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Excessive Current

2005-06-27 Thread Stuart Rohre
In today's ever more crowded circuits; I find that during installation of a
component, I should either hold the end of the wire to be cut or put a
finger on it, so that it will not fly into some part of the circuit and
short something.  It is safer than nipping ends of wires with the cutters
without thought to a wire bit flying into the eye, or hand, or as in this
case, between two leads of an active component.

At the end of construction, it is good to hold the board upside down and end
down and tap it to dislodge any stray bits of wire.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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[Elecraft] Your solder may be no clean

2005-06-23 Thread Stuart Rohre
The Kester solder Mouser part nos. are different in present Mouser catalog.
However, by inspection of the numbers which are similar I can tell you that
nos. containing 6040 are 60/ 40 solder.

Nos. suffixed with 88xx seem to all be NO Clean type, which you do NOT
want to use!

Most likely you have type 245 solder, No Clean, any number on container
like 245?

Go to an electronics or electrical wholesale distributor or order on line
the correct type.

One of the best solders in the world for Elecraft or any kit/ or home
building is Multicore.   It is a multiple core rosin type solder.   The
company is a division of Permatex gasket compound manufacturer now, but has
been in electronics since 1960 or so.  My Field Test K2 was built with
Multicore solder, (formerly  Ersin Multicore of England).

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] G3XGC Z-match

2005-06-20 Thread Stuart Rohre
Rich,
If you re read the text below the pictures, it pretty much details, along
with photos, how the coils are wound.   They are solenoid open wire coils,
and the coil forms are noted, as are the wire sizes and turns for each
winding.

Link coils such as in this Z match tuner, are typically made at the grounded
end of the coil, ie not the top side of the coil in the schematic, but the
side closest to ground symbol, or common at bottom of schematic.  They can
be wound end to end with the tuned coil, or even interleaved among the last
few turns, in some versions.

The caps are listed as salvaged from a particular old Yaesu model , but any
variable capacitor of similar range and spacing of plates can be
substituted.  The 1957 ARRL Handbook has this same Z match tuner built from
Air Dux or BW coil stock.   I used for its capacitors, those salvaged from
a TU war surplus tuning unit, for the BC 611 transmitter.

You could use ham swap meet variable caps from E. F. Johnson, National,
Millen, Cardwell, or many other sources.   You can join the shafts of two
standard variables to make the split stator one needed.  Split stator is
really two capacitors driven from a common shaft.  Put them end to end, and
of course, you have to have the National or Johnson type cap that has a
shaft out the front and back.  There is a capacitor company that made the
caps for Heath Co. that still sells caps of suited types new.
Check Heath web pages for info on replacement caps for the HW8 QRP radio,
and the cap maker is listed.

Google Search Z match Tuner and you will find illustrations of similar Z
match designs which will give you alternate coil and capacitor ideas.  Many
types will work.  They just have to have the plate spacing and maximum
capacitance for the bands and power you run.

The Bill Orr Antenna Handbook, and the Capt. Lee's Verticals Antenna book
should also have tuner info.   The Radio Handbooks by Editors and Engineers
over the 60's and 70's typically had this kind of tuner described.  The BW
Z match tuner of the 1950's was this type, and you could maybe find pictures
of it to follow in construction.

For QRP, there is the ZM1 and ZM2 kits from one of the kit firms.  They were
also Z match tuners for 10 watts or so.

Are there any swap meets for hams coming up in your part of the country?  If
so, I would look for any scrap tuner or capacitors there, you can sub out
those from any T tuner you can find.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Pomona 3296 Parts Source?

2005-06-20 Thread Stuart Rohre
The Pomona web site lists all the major distributors as stocking their
products:   Allied, Newark, Arrow, McMaster Carr, Powell, as well as Mouser.
Maybe not all stock every item, but Allied , Newark, and McMaster Carr are
usually widely stocking down here.
73
Stuart
K5KVH




Re: [Elecraft] Balun

2005-06-09 Thread Stuart Rohre
Rich,
You will need the Elecraft balun kit for the feeder at the rig before it
connects to K2 by a short coax jumper.

You can use any plastic that has no conductive material in it as insulators.
The one you mention is fine, (plexiglas).  You can also use PVC plumbing
fittings from Home Depot, or buy the grey conduit pvc and cut insulators out
of that.  In the beige PVC plumbing fittings are Tees for center insulator,
and nipples for end insulators.  Or just buy the grey conduit as it is more
resistant to sunlight, and cut to needed lengths.

You can dogleg the ends of your dipole, (doublet since it is non resonant,
131 ft.).  That would be symmetric and better than folding only one end.
You need to keep the center and feeder part in straight line for 60 per cent
of total length for most efficiency.  Do not shorten the doublet, in fact
usually an all band doublet is made of 135 feet of wire, center fed by
ladder line, and of course you need a tuner at the end of the line, after
your balun.

I think I covered all your points.   Use as much wire as you can, up to 135
feet, as straight as you can get mid part of it.   Plastic is fine for
insulators.
Darker plastic resists the sun more.  You will need a tuner for all bands
coverage.  You can fold, droop, bend the ends of a doublet to make it fit.

You could put up a PVC flag pole and run the ladder line inside it, and
hang the doublet as an inverted Vee from the top.  Use smaller wire, like
no. 16 for low visibility and use dark wire, flat black if possible. It will
tend to blend into sky background.
GL and 72,
Stuart
K5KVH

It might be better to let them hang down rather than be up close to roof
edge.

Some roofing has a foil backing or metal at edges.




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Re: [Elecraft] Balun

2005-06-09 Thread Stuart Rohre
I guess one of the issues, are you ordering a K2 with its auto tuner?

In that case, my suggestions apply, to adding the Elecraft balun, and using
the internal K2 tuner for your antenna.  It is also true that a balanced
line tuner will work after the K2, and before your ladder line.

Since surplus Johnson Match Boxes do not match on all bands and are harder
to find in surplus; you might check out the new line of MFJ balanced tuners.
They have a double Tee network, and use large, well suited components.  They
go between the K2 and the ladder line, for manual tuning like a Match box
did.

I was impressed with them at Ham Com where they were on display.
In addition to a double network to balance the tuner, they float the tuner
input with a RF choke isolation, to insure you do not couple RF back to the
rig on outside of coax.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] antenna suggestions? (was Re: kpa800 question)

2005-05-26 Thread Stuart Rohre
Brian,
With a window you could deploy a homemade version of the BW window loaded
antenna.  It was a whip as long as you dare, and a base loading coil, which
you can wind and tap for various bands.  Put a counterpoise wire for say 33
feet on ground side of feedpoint at base of coil.  Tap up on coil with coax
to find 5 0 ohm match.  A jumper shorts out parts of coil for various bands.
If the whip is 6 feet you will find collapsible ones at some radio outlets.
72,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Simple Method for Measuring Tuner loss with reactiveloads

2005-05-16 Thread Stuart Rohre
Tony,
To save you and others some work, Frank Witt did an extensive measurement
series on many tuners; and published it in QST and I think, QEX magazines
with additional studies.  If you are an ARRL member, you can likely find the
info from the pieces on the ARRL web site.  It may be in the open Technical
topics section.  He measured the Johnson Matchbox, and found although a good
balanced tuner, it did not match all impedances and work on all of today's
bands.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question

2005-05-13 Thread Stuart Rohre
Google the name Frank Witt, and you will find the tuner studies he did.
Also in archives of QRP-L reflector where he posted them, and maybe on
www.arrl.org technical topics links.

72,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question

2005-05-13 Thread Stuart Rohre
My understanding, from L. B. Cebik, was the German balanced tuners were
discontinued.  I could not find them by Google search.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Tuner efficiency question

2005-05-13 Thread Stuart Rohre
The MFJ balanced tuner has a double tee network to give the most range of
adjustment.

Note even the vaunted Johnson Matchbox did not cover all of today's bands
and impedances.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] What is this new back panel

2005-05-10 Thread Stuart Rohre
Isn't that the panel that is L shaped for the 100 watt option?  Really a
back an top panel heat sink?
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Microphone Jumpers

2005-05-03 Thread Stuart Rohre
On Board jumpers is the term we use in industry.  Check the main
distributors catalogs:  Mouser, Digikey, Allied, Newark, etc.

72,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Audio Volume

2005-04-29 Thread Stuart Rohre
Make sure your speaker bolts are not overly tight distorting the speaker
voice coil travel.  This was a problem on a number of units.

An idea:   cut some spacers that are beveled so as to tilt the speaker
forward.  They cannot be long, as you will get a tunnel stove pipe effect if
the speaker is too low under the cover.  But maybe you can tilt the speaker
enough to help.  An external speaker is always better.
72,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [ELECRAFT] Using XG1 to measure feedline losses

2005-04-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
Very interesting test and another use for the XG1!

Remember, the fat ladder line may be not canceling the currents, ie is not
as balanced as the more narrow line.  Or maybe, the window narrow line is
just the better match to the tuner or it is the routing and the surrounding
influences.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [ELECRAFT] Using XG1 to measure feedline losses

2005-04-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
That is a good point, as you do not want the AGC to activate giving a wrong
reading on the comparisons.

If it were possible to disable AGC, you would be able to be sure it is out
of affecting measurements.   Also, you should use a step attenuator to make
sure no other circuits are overloaded for the testing.  Make sure your
indicating point gives 10 dB steps or whatever step for each attenuator
change to verify linearity at the control settings you have picked.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [ELECRAFT] Using XG1 to measure feedline losses

2005-04-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
An external 4:1 balun is typically less lossy than the built in 4:1 baluns.
Better still, use the W5YR idea, a bead ferrite choke on the coax output,
then connect there with a coax to binding post adapter for balanced line,
and you eliminate questions about your balun.

An alternate is to use a coax cable choke on a plastic Coke bottle, (liter
bottle) for form.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [ELECRAFT] Using XG1 to measure feedline losses

2005-04-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
W5YR, (sk) used the beads for transition to his balanced line adapter to the
coax connection on his tuner.  That is the beauty of the cable choke and
Beads, they are operating on the OUTSIDE of the coax section, and thus the
transformation ratio is taken care of inside the tuner, but RF is blocked
from the tuner case.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Delta-4 switches

2005-04-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
I agree with swapping the two switches to see of problem is on both.  Is
there any other grounding to the switch chassis?

Other than that, are you using same length coax jumpers, (same jumpers) and
just subbing antennas?  I have seen many problems move with jumpers, even
those you think are good by normal tests.  Still, since you have done the
wiggle test , I am surprised you did not find anything.

What is different about feed to Hex Beams?  Any restriction/ limit on
feedline length?  Is the beam pointed toward the shack when you observe high
SWR?

My thinking cap is ON.
72,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Delta-4 switches

2005-04-21 Thread Stuart Rohre
I looked at the HEX BEAM web site to see if anything special about the feed.

Sounds like it is a simple 50 ohm coax connection.  However, compact
antennas have intense near field, so if there is coupling back to shack thru
its gain direction you may have a weird case going.

Keep us informed of what you find swapping switches.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Using XG1 to measure feedline losses

2005-04-19 Thread Stuart Rohre
Can the XG1 transmit into a 50 ohm resistor with short stiff wire leads to
couple, near the loop?

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers

2005-04-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
My clubs, (two) have had 3 MFJ's.   The only reason we had 3, was we
replaced a 259 with the 259 B for added features, and gave the still working
one away as a door prize.  I have the Autek RF 1, and then later got the MFJ
269 to gain 440 band.  All have worked well.  There was an intermittent
display problem in earlier RF 1's that was a connector pin length issue.  I
did the suggested mod myself, and no longer have any intermittent.

The MFJ's have a lot of computing and active devices so do use batteries
pretty hard.  I think the same of the Autek, but then found that its on off
switch was easily tripped on in transporting the analyzer in its box.
Thus, I added an adhesive ring around the push button to make it harder to
hit accidentally and since no more run down battery.  Just glue an o ring of
enough thickness to protect the button from bumping into padding of the box.

Also, all the club analyzers, and my two agree in readings very closely.
And compare well to a Bird SWR/Power meter we checked.

-Stuart K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers

2005-04-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
Ten Tec has a great T kit for adjusting Antenna Tuners with out a signal
on the air, save the built in noise bridge.  And it costs a LOT less than an
Antenna Analyzer from the commercial sources.  The kit is one board, handful
of components and maybe one hour or less assembly.  You listen for a null in
noise bridge signal as you tune your antnena tuner connected to your
receiver.  Works great.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Antenna Analyzers

2005-04-15 Thread Stuart Rohre
Many pieces of equipment never get a comment from hams when they work as
advertised, or have so many advanced features that most hams never learn to
use them.

Thus, it is likely you hear the war stories of the problem equipment; rather
than of the successes.

In addition to my own MFJ 269, which has been perfect; our clubs locally
have had 3 good 259's, and at work we bought about 3 259B's for various
projects.  All worked and even are useable with eye ball averaging  in the
locally high RF field during days from an AM station one mile down the road,
(25 kW).  You can buy an add on series trap kit to bypass RF such as this
from the MFJ's if it is a problem in your application.

The MFJ's have quietly found a place in the tool boxes of many Broadcast
operations, and I would bet they might be made in the numbers that only VOMs
held before.  With so many out in the field, you are likely to get the
occasional failure.  The quality control seems to have improved on the MFJ
products as evidenced by visual inspection of the insides of the analyzers I
have had around, and also those at work.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] heat and wicking

2005-04-12 Thread Stuart Rohre
In a plated thru hole, you only have to solder one side, and the conduction
is made to the trace on other, as there is already solder in the hole.

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Resistors

2005-04-11 Thread Stuart Rohre
I will echo Ron's comment about the colors not being easily to sort out on
today's resistors.  It is much better to use a DMM to be sure, and not trust
your eyes.  If you want to pick resistors, do so with a high intensity light
and magnifier, and you will have a better chance of picking the correct one.
72,

Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Non-resonant attic loop

2005-04-11 Thread Stuart Rohre
Those having low band noise using indoor or attic antennas, might make a
large copper pipe loop for low noise receiving.  It should be symmetric for
best effect.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Ear Buds and Headphones cushion substitutes

2005-04-08 Thread Stuart Rohre
I have found that some ear buds fit better if you switch them to the other
ear, or turn them slightly so that the wire exits at an angle to the rear of
the head.

Maybe you can find a more comfortable position that way.

On another headphone note:   From time to time, I report on using Cosmetic
Sponges as cushions for old fashioned headphones of the high impedance
bakelite type.   Besides Walgreens drug Store, I have found some of the
local Dollar Stores carries 8 White sponge disks for $1.29.  That would
equip four headsets.  Those are the most comfortable solution to headphone
cushions for hard cased phones.   You cut a hole in the middle of the round
sponge disk for the sound holes of the diaphragm.  Use double sided Scotch
tape to affix the disk to the cover of the headphones.  The phones can be
worn for long hours of contesting in complete comfort using these improvised
cushions.

They are more comfortable than the original black rubber sponge cushions
that snapped around the cans back in the old days.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] RE: Ear Buds and Headphones cushion substitutes

2005-04-08 Thread Stuart Rohre
Hi Vic,
The diameter of the cosmetic pads I have found is smaller, (slightly) than
the Trimm type and Military Surplus phones I have used them on.  I do wear
glasses 100 per cent of the time, and these pads have not been a problem.

They do not stick out forward of the ear enough to touch the glasses frame
ear pieces, and they are soft enough to cushion the ear without placing
undue pressure on the ear upon the glasses ear piece hooking over the ear.

I find them entirely adequate, since the old style rubber foam ear pads are
no longer manufactured, in the USA, as far as I can find out.  You could cut
the pads perhaps if your glasses have larger ear pieces.  They are soft
white foam that is easily handled with scissors.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 L33 (BFO) - aesthetics adhesives

2005-04-01 Thread Stuart Rohre
You can get quality 3M electrical tape at Home Depot/ Lowe's in various
colors to have something that does not look like electrical tape.  White
is available, orange, and many other colors.

You can use a wide tape, such as the clear vinyl tapes sold at home centers.
While Scotch type tapes will work, their adhesive might have problems over
time, as they are designed for paper, not metal.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] z5 resonator leads

2005-03-30 Thread Stuart Rohre
Never trim precut to length leads such as ICs and relays, and resistor
packs, or crystals.

These have just enough extension thru the normal fillet of solder to not be
a problem, and to provide a place to clip on for troubleshooting probes.

Trimming short leads that were not designed to be trimmed, or the thicker
leads on relays, inductor cans, crystals, ICs, resistor packs etc. runs the
risk of fracturing the anchor point internal to the package.  Always hold on
to the lead being cut off to avoid shock of cutting from launching an
arrow in an uncontrolled direction.  This also buffers the shock of
cutting the lead from affecting the component.

To summarize, the only leads to trim are individual resistors and capacitors
having the thin solder coated leads.

Look at a few commercial built boards before you willy nilly start to build
something, if you are not experienced at electronics assembly practices.

Check out the library at any Engineering college and likely you can find
texts on assembly practices; or check for military specifications on the web
for assembly practices.

73,
Stuart
K5KVH



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[Elecraft] Re: Fillet or not?

2005-03-30 Thread Stuart Rohre
Absolutely do not leave out the fillet.  If you have a lead that sticks out
of a hole, you should have a fillet around it.  That is a requirement of the
NASA soldering course of years ago, but has not changed as far as I see in
modern assemblies.

The flush plated thru hole is OK for solder bond to a lead, but you lose the
ability to clip on a test lead there.  Also, if ever you have to remove the
component, the extension of the lead out the plated thru hole gives you
something to grab; to wiggle the lead and break the solder bonds while the
solder is wet.  Continued movement of the lead keeps it from reattaching as
the solder cools, and facilitates removing the old component.

I think having a test point is as important as any of the other reasons for
not cutting leads flush.  Besides, the board has leaded components that will
stick thru and should not be cut, (are not designed to be cut) as I
mentioned in the earlier post. Those automatically determining that some
leads protrude thru the bottom of the board.

Now anyone is free to do what they want, but if I got a unit in my shop
years ago to repair that had been assembled with leads cut flush, I would
have to charge more for the aggravation of working on it, or refuse to
service it.

In building electronics, you should always design, lay out, and assemble to
facilitate future repairs.  Unfortunately, much of today's consumer
electronics is built to throw away, but I doubt most hams would want to do
that with their kit when it has a simple failure that soldering in a new
component would fix.

I have followed the above in both design, modification, and selection of
professional science equipment for 45 years, and found that years after
something was obtained, attention to reparability saved the day when we had
to fix it.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Mars Frequencies

2005-03-29 Thread Stuart Rohre
MARS has no better email than anyone else.  The request for application
could have fallen in the bit bucket and not gotten to MARS; or they might
have been short staffed as they often are at HQ.  MARS is pretty far down
the staffing priorities when it comes to the management of the program by
the military.  Always has been, even pre Vietnam war, when I was in MARS.

It is true, they have given up CW nets, and are moving toward digital forms
of communication.  It is also true the MARS fellows in volunteer
administration are probably pretty ignorant of the true value of QRP
especially with digital modulation.   A lot of them are ex service types
used to a kw or BC 610.  I personally would not ask them if I could use such
and such a rig.   After all, all they request is that you have a rig that
can meet their assigned modes and nets.  You can choose a configuration that
you believe meets the requirement.  If you can't make the nets, then you
find something that can.  For the present, they still have SSB, but they
also are involved in packet or other digital modes.  A kit rig could operate
with packet TNCs, and of course you could use an amplifier if needed.  The
best way to improve your station value to MARS is to have very good
antennas.  Now, at one time, there was talk of needing automatic link
establishment commercial transceivers, but that is pretty high dollar for an
all volunteer group.  Hopefully, that nonsense has gone away.

Since MARS is often a point to point service, that should be easily done.
Fixed wire beams, parasitic vertical arrays, rotatable beams, etc.,  are all
ways to satisfy their reliability requirement.  You will need an outdoor
antenna, and perhaps space for several antennas for the various nets.

The Fourth U. S. Army MARS Command Station used one beam and an assortment
of wire antennas to work the world with 100 watts.   For awhile, we did
enjoy the old Signal Corps hill location, with its fixed Rhombics, but had
to move to a more typical ham station location later.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] OT: drillbit question

2005-03-23 Thread Stuart Rohre
These stepped drill bits are OK for the larger holes you might want to make
in thin metal.  They are sold at Harbor Freight at import prices.  See their
web pages.
72,
Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 mic hole plug specs?

2005-03-23 Thread Stuart Rohre
Look up the Caplugs Co. on Google, and write for some samples of their
plugs, stating the sizes you need.
-Stuart
K5KVH



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Re: [Elecraft] Phase noise suggestions

2005-03-22 Thread Stuart Rohre
A simple brute force test would be to procure a simple mild steel box
sufficient to contain the K2 on all sides save the front panel.   See if the
K2 in the box is still sensitive to nearby power fields.  If not then
proceed to use less shielding in a series of tests:

 Experiment with sheets of steel to cover just the bottom of the radio, one
or both sides, etc. to effect the simplest shield arrangement.

Foil shielding tapes are available, and could be used to fashion smaller
shields as needed.  Perhaps only shielding the areas of circuit involved
with frequency generation by under board added steel ground plane will be
sufficient.



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Re: [Elecraft] Re: Magnetic fields and phase noise

2005-03-22 Thread Stuart Rohre
Bob,

Putting a large speaker magnet near any tuned circuit creates a large
magnetic field that can affect the tuned circuit.  The effect of your large
speaker is common upon many radios.  This even affects toroid circuits such
as those in the K2.

-Stuart
K5KVH



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