Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: RF Gain Pot

[David Herring]

Ah…thanks Mike, that’s useful information to know.  Part of me suspected this.  
Maybe I’ll just go ahead and preemptively order up enough for all four and be 
done with it.  On rigs like the K2 I do indeed tend to ride the RF Gain...

Thanks! 

73,
Dave - N5DCH




> On Jul 25, 2022, at 8:01 PM, Michael Carter  wrote:
> 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> You'll need to replace that pot.  I've got the same problem
> in my K2/10, and it's getting progressively worse.  The
> issue is not solvable with contact cleaner - I recall older
> posts on this same problem, and the advice was the
> same: replace the pot.  Some commenters suggested
> ordering replacements for all four pots to the left of
> the VFO knob, but I've only had issues with the RF Gain
> pot.  If you're like me, I turn off the AGC most of the
> time and ride the RF Gain pot a lot, especially when
> contesting.  That no doubt contributed to my problem.
> 
> 73,
> Mike, K8CN
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: RF Gain Pot

[Michael Carter]

Hi Dave,

You'll need to replace that pot.  I've got the same problem
in my K2/10, and it's getting progressively worse.  The
issue is not solvable with contact cleaner - I recall older
posts on this same problem, and the advice was the
same: replace the pot.  Some commenters suggested
ordering replacements for all four pots to the left of
the VFO knob, but I've only had issues with the RF Gain
pot.  If you're like me, I turn off the AGC most of the
time and ride the RF Gain pot a lot, especially when
contesting.  That no doubt contributed to my problem.

73,
Mike, K8CN
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[Elecraft] K2 Question: RF Gain Pot

[David Herring]

Greetings!

I now have a K2.  8-) 

I notice that when I have the RF gain full clockwise, radio works fine, but 
then if I so much as touch it to move it counterclockwise, it completely mutes 
out the radio as if it were already fully counterclockwise.  Then as I move it 
farther, it resumes behaving as expected with commensurately variable degrees 
of RF Gain.

It looks to me like an intermittent connection in the pot.  I had resolved it, 
or so I thought, by just exercising the pot back and forth a bunch of times - 
thinking that the contacts were just maybe dirty.  It started working normal 
again after that.  And then after a while, it went back to its original odd 
behavior.

So my question is, is there a specific kind of contact cleaner/electronic lube 
that one would recommend for this pot?  Or am I looking at just replacing it?  
Or is there something else I’m perhaps not considering?

This is merely an annoyance, not a show stopper… I still make Qs with the rig.  
I’m about to open the rig up to install a KIO2 and thought while I was in there 
I’d try and address the RF Gain pot issue, hence why I’m asking the K2 
braintrust for their input...

73,
Dave - N5DCH




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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Ian Maude]

 Don’t attempt to use a standard RS232 cable with the K2.  You should be
using a specially made cable which is shown in the manual.

73 Ian

On 27 Feb 2021 at 21:25:28, Dave Sublette  wrote:

> Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2?  Should have asked this before I
> bought the cable.  My K2 has worked with a serial port adapter from Keyspan
> for several years and with a variety of logging programs.
>
> I had to ditch the keyspan because BiG Sur doesn't have a driver and
> Keyspan doesn't have a compatible driver for Big Sur
>
> So I went with the KUSB.  When I connect it, the K2 does strange things.
> Power control turned all the way down results in a nice 10 watt output  and
> normal operation.  When Power control is turned up I get a HiCurr and LoPWR
> error and the display only shows power, not frequency.
>
> Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks and 73,
>
> Dave, K4TO
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question (KUSB and KIO2)

[Geert Jan de Groot]

How much damage is done partially depends on the hardware mod version of 
your K2. The "B" mods includes some modifications that should limit some 
of the most serious damage, like blowing up the main processor of your 
K2. There is a document somewhere that describes what damage a K2 
suffers because of this; it's a long list


Apologies for replying to my own post - didn't want Dave to sustain any 
more damage! - but for those who have done the unthinkable and connected 
a regular RS232 device to KIO2,
https://folk.universitetetioslo.no/sverre/LA3ZA/blog/K2/N0SS/k2_wrong_ser_cbl_damage.pdf 
should be helpful information.


Step 10 of the K2 "Upgrading the elecraft K2 to revision B" document on 
the Elecraft website has a valuable step that I missed when I did other 
upgrades.


BTW, if your K2 is the 10W version, you don't use the RS232 port and you 
don't have the "K2 amplifier keying circuit" that can be found on the 
Elecraft website, it is possible to put that circuit inside a DE9 
connector hood: have a DE9-M connector that plugs in the KIO2, and a 
cable to key your amplifier. I added another transistor to switch a 
small LED so that the connector now lights up when the K2 is 
transmitting. I use this to key a chain of transverters for the QO100 
satellite. And it avoids drilling a hole for the PTT key plug.


73,

Geert Jan

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question (KUSB and KIO2)

[Dave Sublette]

Thanks for the info. I will have to make up that short cable! Fortunately
my K2 is the B level.

73,

Dave

On Sat, Feb 27, 2021 at 5:10 PM Geert Jan de Groot  wrote:

>
> > Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2?  Should have asked this before
> I
> > bought the cable.  My K2 has worked with a serial port adapter from
> Keyspan
> > for several years and with a variety of logging programs.
> > So I went with the KUSB.  When I connect it, the K2 does strange things.
> > Power control turned all the way down results in a nice 10 watt output
> and
> > normal operation.  When Power control is turned up I get a HiCurr and
> LoPWR
> > error and the display only shows power, not frequency.
>
> Please read the KIO2 documentation: any serial device may only be
> connected *if only pin 2, 3, 5* are connected. If you connect a serial
> device with the other pins connected, which the KUSB as well as most
> other devices have, *you can cause serious damage to your K2*.
>
> It is essential that the other pins are left unconnected, they are used
> for other signals and the RS232 signals give voltages that cause damage.
>
> So, if you use the KUSB, make sure to insert a short cable that ONLY
> connects these 3 wires, NOTHING ELSE.
>
> How much damage is done partially depends on the hardware mod version of
> your K2. The "B" mods includes some modifications that should limit some
> of the most serious damage, like blowing up the main processor of your
> K2. There is a document somewhere that describes what damage a K2
> suffers because of this; it's a long list
>
> Despite the fact that the KIO2 sports a DE9 connector, it really isn't a
> standard serial port. In hindsight, Elecraft should have chosen a DE15
> connector instead (making sure that a "VGA cable" would not cause
> damage. Ah well, too late now..
>
> 73, Geert Jan
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question (KUSB and KIO2)

[Geert Jan de Groot]

Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2?  Should have asked this before I
bought the cable.  My K2 has worked with a serial port adapter from Keyspan
for several years and with a variety of logging programs.
So I went with the KUSB.  When I connect it, the K2 does strange things.
Power control turned all the way down results in a nice 10 watt output  and
normal operation.  When Power control is turned up I get a HiCurr and LoPWR
error and the display only shows power, not frequency.


Please read the KIO2 documentation: any serial device may only be 
connected *if only pin 2, 3, 5* are connected. If you connect a serial 
device with the other pins connected, which the KUSB as well as most 
other devices have, *you can cause serious damage to your K2*.


It is essential that the other pins are left unconnected, they are used 
for other signals and the RS232 signals give voltages that cause damage.


So, if you use the KUSB, make sure to insert a short cable that ONLY 
connects these 3 wires, NOTHING ELSE.


How much damage is done partially depends on the hardware mod version of 
your K2. The "B" mods includes some modifications that should limit some 
of the most serious damage, like blowing up the main processor of your 
K2. There is a document somewhere that describes what damage a K2 
suffers because of this; it's a long list


Despite the fact that the KIO2 sports a DE9 connector, it really isn't a 
standard serial port. In hindsight, Elecraft should have chosen a DE15 
connector instead (making sure that a "VGA cable" would not cause 
damage. Ah well, too late now..


73, Geert Jan
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[Elecraft] K2 question

[Dave Sublette]

Is the KUSB cable compatible with the K2?  Should have asked this before I
bought the cable.  My K2 has worked with a serial port adapter from Keyspan
for several years and with a variety of logging programs.

I had to ditch the keyspan because BiG Sur doesn't have a driver and
Keyspan doesn't have a compatible driver for Big Sur

So I went with the KUSB.  When I connect it, the K2 does strange things.
Power control turned all the way down results in a nice 10 watt output  and
normal operation.  When Power control is turned up I get a HiCurr and LoPWR
error and the display only shows power, not frequency.

Any thoughts?

Thanks and 73,

Dave, K4TO
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[lmarion]

My experience/thoughts as well Phil. I still have a lot of fun with
K2 SN 40.  But since I got the KX3, I have made the K2 with transverter
my  6m  rig .

I have all options including the DSP and I like it.

Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message- 
From: Phil Wheeler

Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2015 11:14 AM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

Yes and the K2 is still a very competitive rig,
even after 16 years, Michael!  I now have the K3
and a KX3, but given all the TLC that I put into
building the original (#380) K2 and all the later
add-ins/ons, I plan to keep it.

I much preferred the KDSP2 to the KAF2 so had no
second thoughts about doing the replacement, but
then I operate both CW and SSB. Adding the SSB
option to the K2 sort of sucked me into operating
more SSB :-)

73, Phil W7OX

On 11/5/15 9:34 AM, Michael Babineau wrote:

Dave :

Thanks for asking this question. 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[Phil Wheeler]

Yes and the K2 is still a very competitive rig, 
even after 16 years, Michael!  I now have the K3 
and a KX3, but given all the TLC that I put into 
building the original (#380) K2 and all the later 
add-ins/ons, I plan to keep it.


I much preferred the KDSP2 to the KAF2 so had no 
second thoughts about doing the replacement, but 
then I operate both CW and SSB. Adding the SSB 
option to the K2 sort of sucked me into operating 
more SSB :-)


73, Phil W7OX

On 11/5/15 9:34 AM, Michael Babineau wrote:

Dave :

Thanks for asking this question.  As a K2 owner with the KAF2 installed, I have 
also often wondered what I am missing out on
by not having the KDSP2 installed instead.  From the responses to your 
question, the consensus seems to be that it is well worth the upgrade
if you primarily operate SSB but maybe not so much if you are primarily a CW 
operator.  I personally really like the KAF2 for CW.

On a related note, it occurred to me that the K2 has been in production for 
almost 20 years !  Wow !   I think that this is a testament
to the incredible job that Wayne and Eric did in designing the rig, then 
working at over the years to continuously improve it.  What other Amateur radio
can you think of that is still in production after 17 years ?  It was an 
awesome rig in 1998 and it is still an amazing performer for its price today.

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[Michael Babineau]

Dave : 

Thanks for asking this question.  As a K2 owner with the KAF2 installed, I have 
also often wondered what I am missing out on
by not having the KDSP2 installed instead.  From the responses to your 
question, the consensus seems to be that it is well worth the upgrade 
if you primarily operate SSB but maybe not so much if you are primarily a CW 
operator.  I personally really like the KAF2 for CW. 

On a related note, it occurred to me that the K2 has been in production for 
almost 20 years !  Wow !   I think that this is a testament
to the incredible job that Wayne and Eric did in designing the rig, then 
working at over the years to continuously improve it.  What other Amateur radio
can you think of that is still in production after 17 years ?  It was an 
awesome rig in 1998 and it is still an amazing performer for its price today.

Cheers

Michael VE3WMB 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[Phil Wheeler]

Definitely true re user interface.  But if you get 
it set up in a way that works well for you, then 
not much need to tweak.


I don't often change settings in my K3 DSP either.

73, Phil W7OX

On 11/4/15 7:35 PM, Sverre Holm (LA3ZA) wrote:

I would not have upgraded to the KDSP2. Not for the performance, because
although I'm mainly a CW operator, I could probably benefit from it.

My main objection to the KDSP2 is user interface. The K2 was not designed
for the KDSP2 in the first place as can be seen in how complicated it is to
set up and operate compared to the other K2 modules. Given the few buttons
of the K2, the user interface for the KDSP2 is probably as good as it can
be, but still it is so much harder to use than the other options. The
otherwise well thought-out user interface of the K2 is made unncessary
complicated by the KDSP2 with all its features.

This can be read indirectly from the history of Elecraft here:
http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/history/

Quote:
"A major milestone in our history was the KDSP2 option for the K2. Lyle
Johnson, KK7P, became known to us *after* he had mostly completed this
highly versatile DSP unit. He reverse-engineered the auxBus protocol and
made the KDSP2 behave as if it were a KAF2, which plugged into the same
spot. He showed it to us, and we immediately adopted both the product and
Lyle himself."





-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[Sverre Holm (LA3ZA)]

I would not have upgraded to the KDSP2. Not for the performance, because
although I'm mainly a CW operator, I could probably benefit from it.

My main objection to the KDSP2 is user interface. The K2 was not designed
for the KDSP2 in the first place as can be seen in how complicated it is to
set up and operate compared to the other K2 modules. Given the few buttons
of the K2, the user interface for the KDSP2 is probably as good as it can
be, but still it is so much harder to use than the other options. The
otherwise well thought-out user interface of the K2 is made unncessary
complicated by the KDSP2 with all its features.

This can be read indirectly from the history of Elecraft here:
http://udel.edu/~mm/ham/elecraft/history/

Quote: 
"A major milestone in our history was the KDSP2 option for the K2. Lyle
Johnson, KK7P, became known to us *after* he had mostly completed this
highly versatile DSP unit. He reverse-engineered the auxBus protocol and
made the KDSP2 behave as if it were a KAF2, which plugged into the same
spot. He showed it to us, and we immediately adopted both the product and
Lyle himself."





-
Sverre, LA3ZA

K2 #2198, K3 #3391,
LA3ZA Blog: http://la3za.blogspot.com,
LA3ZA Unofficial Guide to K2 modifications: 
http://la3za.blogspot.com/p/la3za-unofficial-guide-to-elecraft-k2.html
--
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Question-Is-the-DSP-Board-a-Worthwhile-upgrade-tp7609953p7609972.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[James Bennett]

David, 

My K2 is long gone, but I can tell you about my experience with the DSP module. 
I operate mainly CW, and added the DSP option after having the K2 for over a 
year. For me, it was a mistake. The radio didn't sound as good as it did before 
adding it. I wound up taking it out and selling the board. 

Maybe it was me, maybe I didn't have something set right, but whatever it was, 
if I owned a K2 today there is no way I'd put that option in it. Just my two 
centavos...

Jim / W6JHB




> On Nov 4, 2015, at 15:44, David Inger  wrote:
> 
> A friend has a fairly recent K2 with the KAF2 audio filter option.  He asked
> me to remove the KAF2, build the KDSP2 board and install it in his K2.  This
> got me to thinking:  I also have a K2 wiht the KAF2 installed.  My friend
> works mainly SSB; I work main CW and digital modes.  Is the DSP board a
> significant improvement over the bare K2 or even with the KAF2 installed
> (which seems to be tailored for CW reception)?  In general, radios  that I
> have owned with AF DSP have been pretty much a disappointment.  So is the
> KDSP2 a worthwhile and cost-effective upgrade?
> 
> 73 de K6SBA
> David in Santa Barbara, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[Matt Maguire]

When I built my K2 a year and a half ago, I also had to decide between bare K2 
vs KAF2 vs KDSP2, and went through the archives. In the end I went with the 
KDSP2, but some of the points I considered along the way:

Bare K2:
- built-in IF filters do work very well, but I read some reports that strong 
stations nearby can produce some « blow-by », and that either the KAF2 or KDSP2 
can help clean it up.
- At some point, Elecraft may cease production of the K2, and if I leave my K2 
bare, I may not get the chance to upgrade it later.

KAF2:
- cheap, very easy to use
- for CW, reports seem to indicate it performs about the same as the KDSP2
- has a nice LPF stage that cuts down background hiss, seems to be better than 
the KDSP2 in this regard. Some people have added a KAF2-style LPF to their 
KDSP2 with good results.

KDSP2:
- much more configurable than KAF2
- has noise reduction feature, I thought this might come in handy if I have the 
K2 as a second radio, and have it sitting on my club’s SSB calling frequency. 
It does keep the radio very quiet, almost like a voice squelch.
- also has automatic notch filter, in case I need it
- can go very narrow. I had good experiences with the DSP filtering in my KX3, 
which was really effective in digging out some very weak sigs on our QRP net 
(although so far I have mainly used the K2 for rag chewing, haven’t really done 
any side-by-side comparisons with KX3)
- Code for the DSP is open source, so might be fun to play with. However, I 
think the development kits are now out of production, and I think maybe the 
chip in my KDSP2 was not in a socket, but soldered directly to the board 
(someone correct me if I am wrong). So, there are some barriers to playing with 
the DSP code, and if I wanted to experiment in DSP techniques, a much easier 
way would probably be to use a generic PC with sound card and GNUradio or 
similar development environment.
- KDSP2 chews a lot more power than KAF2, which may be an issue if you like to 
run off batteries. You can disable the KDSP2 through the menu, which 
significantly reduces but doesn’t eliminate the additional power draw. If you 
power-cycle the K2, the disable setting of the KDSP2 is forgotten, and the 
KDSP2 will become active again.
- the KDSP2 is a lot more complicated to use than KAF2. This means you have 
more flexibility, and some people like having lots of settings to play with, so 
it can be a plus. But it can also be a minus as it can be hard to remember how 
to change some of the less commonly adjusted settings. Having said that, the 
defaults on the KDSP2 are usually fine. 

So, is the KDSP2 a worthwhile upgrade? For your SSB friend, I would say yes. 
For a primarily CW operator like yourself who already has a KAF2, it might be 
harder to justify. Is the upgrade cost-effective? Well, the KDSP2 is 
significantly more expensive than the KAF2, and it is a personal choice whether 
the extra value/fun brought by the KDSP2’s additional features warrants the 
additional cost. After all, it is a hobby :-)

-- 
73 de Matt VK2RQ

On 5 novembre 2015 at 10:44:52 AM, David Inger (ingerassocia...@cox.net) wrote:

A friend has a fairly recent K2 with the KAF2 audio filter option. He asked  
me to remove the KAF2, build the KDSP2 board and install it in his K2. This  
got me to thinking: I also have a K2 wiht the KAF2 installed. My friend  
works mainly SSB; I work main CW and digital modes. Is the DSP board a  
significant improvement over the bare K2 or even with the KAF2 installed  
(which seems to be tailored for CW reception)? In general, radios that I  
have owned with AF DSP have been pretty much a disappointment. So is the  
KDSP2 a worthwhile and cost-effective upgrade?  

73 de K6SBA  
David in Santa Barbara, CA  
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

The KAF2 is mainly for CW use.  It provides a great peaking filter at 
the frequency that you have set it to (presumably your sidetone pitch).
It also has a low pass filter that is in-circuit at all times.  That can 
reduce band noise hiss for all modes.


The KDSP2 also provides filtering for CW, SSB and data modes.  If you 
are bothered by signals nearby in frequency, the straight-sided filters 
of the KDSP2 will be an advantage.


The KDSP2 also provides noise reduction algorithms, although turning on 
NR in any transceiver can introduce distortion for voice signals.  How 
bad that is will be determined by the aggressiveness of the algorithms.  
The KDSP2 does allow a wide range of settings, and you may have to 
experiment with those setting if the defaults do not satisfactorily 
handle your particular noise situation.


So, not directly answering your question, the KDSP2 can provide 
filtering as good as the KAF2 (even better), but if the operator is CW 
oriented, the additional cost of the KDSP2 option may not provide the 
improvement expected - for SSB operation, there is no choice, the KAF2 
is not useful on SSB (other than the Low Pass Filter) and the KDSP2 is 
the only real choice between the two.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/4/2015 6:44 PM, David Inger wrote:

A friend has a fairly recent K2 with the KAF2 audio filter option.  He asked
me to remove the KAF2, build the KDSP2 board and install it in his K2.  This
got me to thinking:  I also have a K2 wiht the KAF2 installed.  My friend
works mainly SSB; I work main CW and digital modes.  Is the DSP board a
significant improvement over the bare K2 or even with the KAF2 installed
(which seems to be tailored for CW reception)?  In general, radios  that I
have owned with AF DSP have been pretty much a disappointment.  So is the
KDSP2 a worthwhile and cost-effective upgrade?
  



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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[Phil Wheeler]

I thought it was. A bit complicated to get 
adjusted just right, but there is/was a how-to doc 
at the Elecraft website which you might want to 
read, David.


I say "thought" because now I use my K3 and KX3, 
though I still have my all-up K2; it's a keeper at 
this point.


73, Phil W7OX (in Torrance).

On 11/4/15 3:44 PM, David Inger wrote:

A friend has a fairly recent K2 with the KAF2 audio filter option.  He asked
me to remove the KAF2, build the KDSP2 board and install it in his K2.  This
got me to thinking:  I also have a K2 wiht the KAF2 installed.  My friend
works mainly SSB; I work main CW and digital modes.  Is the DSP board a
significant improvement over the bare K2 or even with the KAF2 installed
(which seems to be tailored for CW reception)?  In general, radios  that I
have owned with AF DSP have been pretty much a disappointment.  So is the
KDSP2 a worthwhile and cost-effective upgrade?
  
73 de K6SBA

David in Santa Barbara, CA


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[Elecraft] K2 Question: Is the DSP Board a Worthwhile upgrade?

[David Inger]

A friend has a fairly recent K2 with the KAF2 audio filter option.  He asked
me to remove the KAF2, build the KDSP2 board and install it in his K2.  This
got me to thinking:  I also have a K2 wiht the KAF2 installed.  My friend
works mainly SSB; I work main CW and digital modes.  Is the DSP board a
significant improvement over the bare K2 or even with the KAF2 installed
(which seems to be tailored for CW reception)?  In general, radios  that I
have owned with AF DSP have been pretty much a disappointment.  So is the
KDSP2 a worthwhile and cost-effective upgrade?
 
73 de K6SBA
David in Santa Barbara, CA
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question (after 9-year hiatus)

[Don Wilhelm]

Louis,

That is normally a result of one or more unsoldered connections or a 
poorly soldered connections on either Front Panel U1 or the LCD itself.
Check the LCD leads first - you might want to solder them from the top 
of the board if you do not see solder wicked up onto the leads.


U1 is a little more difficult since the leads are hidden by the LCD.  
The first check is on pin 1 of the socket - peer under the LCD to see if 
pin 1 is well soldered.
If the pin is not soldered, do not try to solder it from the normal 
solder side, but carve away a bit of the plastic on the socket adjacent 
to the pin and solder it from the same side the socket is mounted on.


You may be able to inspect the other U1 pins by looking between the LCD 
leads.
The "L" in Elecraft is digit 7 and the two vertical segments are "E" and 
"F", and those correspond to U1 pin 20.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/2/2015 11:12 AM, Louis C LaCour Jr wrote:

Hello all:

Started building a K2 back in 2005, and had to set it aside. So now I’m back at 
it after a LONG break. ☺

Anyway….

I’m at the point of first power up, and everything checks out except for one 
thing: I have two (vertical) LCD segments that are not lighting up (where the 
“L” would be in the “ELECRAFT” power-up message.”

I’d appreciate suggestions on how to diagnose and correct this before I move on 
to other areas of assembly. I’m hoping it’s not a defective LCD unit.



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[Elecraft] K2 Question (after 9-year hiatus)

[Louis C LaCour Jr]

Hello all:

Started building a K2 back in 2005, and had to set it aside. So now I’m back at 
it after a LONG break. ☺

Anyway….

I’m at the point of first power up, and everything checks out except for one 
thing: I have two (vertical) LCD segments that are not lighting up (where the 
“L” would be in the “ELECRAFT” power-up message.”

I’d appreciate suggestions on how to diagnose and correct this before I move on 
to other areas of assembly. I’m hoping it’s not a defective LCD unit.

Thanks!

___
Louis C. LaCour, Jr.
KE5GIU




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Baton Rouge | Birmingham | Columbia | Houston | Jackson | Jacksonville | 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Christophe F8ACF-56]

Good evening to all,

Don thank you, thank you peter

luckily I asked, I did not understand the meaning

thank you again
 
73 , Christophe F8ACF-56



 De : Don Wilhelm 
À : Christophe F8ACF-56  
Cc : "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Envoyé le : Jeudi 21 mars 2013 23h07
Objet : Re: [Elecraft] K2 question
 
Christophe,

Look on the other side of that crystal envelope (side opposite the white 
label).  You should find a handwritten number like "3.6". That is the 
number that you will need.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/21/2013 5:13 PM, Christophe F8ACF-56 wrote:
> hello list,
>
> it says this on page 54 of the book
>
> " The bag filter crystals of 7 Should Have a number written on it.
> Record the number here: ___. (This identified the tested
> frequency of the crystals, and can be used in aligning filters."
>
> on my bag is registered 4.913MHZ, have I understood correctly?
>
>    thank you for your help, even if the child seems to question you, that I 
>avoid misunderstanding and try to lead my K2 to good success.
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Peter Eijlander (PA0PJE)]

Bonjour Christophe,

That's correct.

Bonne chance!

73,
Peter

K2 #4837

Op 2013-03-21 22:13 schreef Christophe F8ACF-56:

hello list,

it says this on page 54 of the book

" The bag filter crystals of 7 Should Have a number written on it.
Record the number here: ___. (This identified the tested
frequency of the crystals, and can be used in aligning filters."

on my bag is registered 4.913MHZ, have I understood correctly?

   thank you for your help, even if the child seems to question you, that I 
avoid misunderstanding and try to lead my K2 to good success.

73 F8ACF K2 # 7369
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Don Wilhelm]

Christophe,

Look on the other side of that crystal envelope (side opposite the white 
label).  You should find a handwritten number like "3.6". That is the 
number that you will need.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/21/2013 5:13 PM, Christophe F8ACF-56 wrote:

hello list,

it says this on page 54 of the book

" The bag filter crystals of 7 Should Have a number written on it.
Record the number here: ___. (This identified the tested
frequency of the crystals, and can be used in aligning filters."

on my bag is registered 4.913MHZ, have I understood correctly?

   thank you for your help, even if the child seems to question you, that I 
avoid misunderstanding and try to lead my K2 to good success.




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[Elecraft] K2 question

[Christophe F8ACF-56]

hello list,

it says this on page 54 of the book 

" The bag filter crystals of 7 Should Have a number written on it.
Record the number here: ___. (This identified the tested
frequency of the crystals, and can be used in aligning filters."

on my bag is registered 4.913MHZ, have I understood correctly?

  thank you for your help, even if the child seems to question you, that I 
avoid misunderstanding and try to lead my K2 to good success.

73 F8ACF K2 # 7369
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question/new owner

[Stephen Roberts]

I agree, the KAT2 is the bomb!

Sent from my iPad

On Mar 10, 2013, at 10:04 AM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:

> Don,
> 
> Welcome to the Elecraft list.  You must be posting properly, your post made 
> it to the list.
> 
> When you hold the TUNE button, there is only a brief 'beep' not a tone.
> 
> During a TUNE, the basic K2 (no KAT2) displays the power output as measured 
> with a simple diode RF detector.  That power level will only be correct if 
> the K2 is operating into a load impedance of 50 ohms pure resistive.  The 
> variation as you move across the band is due to variation in the actual 
> impedance of your antenna as seen at the shack end of your transmission line.
> 
> But OTOH, the K2 will attempt to control power at whatever level is set on 
> the Power 'requested' knob, so if you are set to 10 watts, the K2 will try to 
> adjust the drive until the RF voltage from the RF detector is equal to that 
> power level driven into a 50 ohm pure resistive load.  SWR into your feedline 
> will affect the actual power developed by the K2.  An 80 meter antenna will 
> have a significant change in SWR over the band.  You may have to retune the 
> Z100 frequently when moving across the band to allow the K2 to properly 
> control the power.
> 
> For tuning your Z100, holding the TUNE button will transmit at whatever power 
> level is set on the power knob, so the maximum power that your Z100 tuner 
> should have during a tuning cycle sets the limit.  Set that power level with 
> the Power knob.  After tuning, set the power to your desired operating power. 
>  During the time the Z100 is tuning, the power out indication may vary all 
> over the board as the SWR is constantly changing while the tuner seeks a low 
> SWR.
> 
> The addition of a KAT2, KPA100 or KAT100 will provide better power control 
> with your K2 because those options contain wattmeters (as opposed to a simple 
> RF voltage detector) which remove the SWR dependency from the power control 
> operation.
> 
> The bottom line of all this is that the K2 controls power differently than 
> your prior transceivers.  The K2 tries to measure the actual RF output and 
> computes what it 'thinks' is the power into a 50 ohm resistive load, then 
> adjusts the drive to bring the output up to what you have requested.  Most 
> other transceivers simply adjust the drive to the PA and let it go at that.
> 
> With the antenna that you have, you should consider the addition of the KAT2 
> (or if you are considering a future addition of the KPA100, use the KAT100),  
> The built-in wattmeter make tuning antennas much easier.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 
> On 3/10/2013 8:20 AM, bukar wrote:
>> I hope that I am posting this properly, if not please correct me. :-)
>> 
>> I am the new owner of K2/10 #5001. I am more used to tuning up the hybrid 
>> Kenwoods so while I am looking forward to moving to this more modern radio I 
>> have some questions.
>> 
>> I think that I must have toggled something off as I no longer can get a tone 
>> when I push the "tune" switch on and off. It was working but I was in the 
>> menus and fear I have done something to cause this.  I can't find the page 
>> in the manual to correct this. Any suggestions?
>> 
>> Also, when I tune the radio with my LDG z100 tuner  should I dial back the 
>> power on the rig to 3-2 watts before tuning, get a match and then go back to 
>> 10 watts?
>> 
>> I don't understand the read out I get on the display.  The Po number that is 
>> displayed after the tune up, is that the recommended max power to use at 
>> that particular match? I am trying to keep my power out to 10 watts but some 
>> matches even a few kelos apart will display a Po reading from 15 to >5 as I 
>> tune across the band.
>> 
>> I am using the rig SSB into a 80 meter dilpole at 40 feet.
>> 73
>> Don Bukar
>> KJ4RQV
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question/new owner

[Don Wilhelm]

Don,

Welcome to the Elecraft list.  You must be posting properly, your post 
made it to the list.


When you hold the TUNE button, there is only a brief 'beep' not a tone.

During a TUNE, the basic K2 (no KAT2) displays the power output as 
measured with a simple diode RF detector.  That power level will only be 
correct if the K2 is operating into a load impedance of 50 ohms pure 
resistive.  The variation as you move across the band is due to 
variation in the actual impedance of your antenna as seen at the shack 
end of your transmission line.


But OTOH, the K2 will attempt to control power at whatever level is set 
on the Power 'requested' knob, so if you are set to 10 watts, the K2 
will try to adjust the drive until the RF voltage from the RF detector 
is equal to that power level driven into a 50 ohm pure resistive load.  
SWR into your feedline will affect the actual power developed by the 
K2.  An 80 meter antenna will have a significant change in SWR over the 
band.  You may have to retune the Z100 frequently when moving across the 
band to allow the K2 to properly control the power.


For tuning your Z100, holding the TUNE button will transmit at whatever 
power level is set on the power knob, so the maximum power that your 
Z100 tuner should have during a tuning cycle sets the limit.  Set that 
power level with the Power knob.  After tuning, set the power to your 
desired operating power.  During the time the Z100 is tuning, the power 
out indication may vary all over the board as the SWR is constantly 
changing while the tuner seeks a low SWR.


The addition of a KAT2, KPA100 or KAT100 will provide better power 
control with your K2 because those options contain wattmeters (as 
opposed to a simple RF voltage detector) which remove the SWR dependency 
from the power control operation.


The bottom line of all this is that the K2 controls power differently 
than your prior transceivers.  The K2 tries to measure the actual RF 
output and computes what it 'thinks' is the power into a 50 ohm 
resistive load, then adjusts the drive to bring the output up to what 
you have requested.  Most other transceivers simply adjust the drive to 
the PA and let it go at that.


With the antenna that you have, you should consider the addition of the 
KAT2 (or if you are considering a future addition of the KPA100, use the 
KAT100),  The built-in wattmeter make tuning antennas much easier.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 3/10/2013 8:20 AM, bukar wrote:

I hope that I am posting this properly, if not please correct me. :-)

I am the new owner of K2/10 #5001. I am more used to tuning up the hybrid 
Kenwoods so while I am looking forward to moving to this more modern radio I 
have some questions.

I think that I must have toggled something off as I no longer can get a tone when I push 
the "tune" switch on and off. It was working but I was in the menus and fear I 
have done something to cause this.  I can't find the page in the manual to correct this. 
Any suggestions?

Also, when I tune the radio with my LDG z100 tuner  should I dial back the 
power on the rig to 3-2 watts before tuning, get a match and then go back to 10 
watts?

I don't understand the read out I get on the display.  The Po number that is 
displayed after the tune up, is that the recommended max power to use at that 
particular match? I am trying to keep my power out to 10 watts but some matches 
even a few kelos apart will display a Po reading from 15 to >5 as I tune across 
the band.

I am using the rig SSB into a 80 meter dilpole at 40 feet.
73
Don Bukar
KJ4RQV
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[Elecraft] K2 question/new owner

[bukar]

I hope that I am posting this properly, if not please correct me. :-)

I am the new owner of K2/10 #5001. I am more used to tuning up the hybrid 
Kenwoods so while I am looking forward to moving to this more modern radio I 
have some questions.

I think that I must have toggled something off as I no longer can get a tone 
when I push the "tune" switch on and off. It was working but I was in the menus 
and fear I have done something to cause this.  I can't find the page in the 
manual to correct this. Any suggestions?

Also, when I tune the radio with my LDG z100 tuner  should I dial back the 
power on the rig to 3-2 watts before tuning, get a match and then go back to 10 
watts?

I don't understand the read out I get on the display.  The Po number that is 
displayed after the tune up, is that the recommended max power to use at that 
particular match? I am trying to keep my power out to 10 watts but some matches 
even a few kelos apart will display a Po reading from 15 to >5 as I tune across 
the band.

I am using the rig SSB into a 80 meter dilpole at 40 feet.
73
Don Bukar
KJ4RQV
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] question about crystal filters and DSP audio filter settings

[Kevin]

Thanks to Don and Robert for the quick and thorough responses about setting up 
the DSP filters. I will experiment with the settings now that I understand a 
little bit better. 


On Jan 30, 2013, at 8:57 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote:

> Kevin,
> 
> Usually the KDSP default filter widths work fine,  I would suggest that you 
> leave CW AFIL1 set for LoPass and normally use the IF filters for general 
> use.  When you encounter QRM, then first narrow the IF filter, and then if 
> still needed, start down the AFIL steps to resolve the signal.
> In other words, there is only marginal benefit in using a 150 Hz KDSP2 
> bandwidth if your IF filter is set to 1.5 or 0.7 kHz.  The offending strong 
> signal will still take over the K2 AGC and you will hear 'pumping' because 
> the strong offending signal is controlling the AGC.
> 
> The KDSP2 filter skirts are steeper than the IF crystal filter skirts, and 
> that is the main advantage.
> Narrower bandwidth is not always the best cure, but the choices are entirely 
> yours to make.  Experiment a bit while listening to DX Pileups or during a 
> "hot and heavy" contest where the bands are crowded, and that experience will 
> give you the information you need to set the KDSP filters the way they will 
> be of the most advantage to you.  Your current setting may be quite adequate.
> Your goal should be twofold - first is to reduce QRM from adjacent signals, 
> and the second is to be able to pull weak signals out of a crowded band.  
> More narrow filter widths are not always the way to make that happen, but 
> escaping from QRM with steeper filter skirts may work better.  A lot depends 
> on your tuning skill as well as selection of the proper filters and the best 
> way to develop that skill is to try it out on crowded band conditions.
> 
> It may be that you simply want to set the KDSP bandwidth to the same widths 
> as the IF filters to take advantage of the steeper skirts. In other words, 
> use AFIL2 in conjunction with IF FL2, AFIL3 in conjunction with IF FL3, etc.  
> It is rare that you will need less than 200 Hz of filter width, but YMMV.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] question about crystal filters and DSP audio filter settings

[Robert G Strickland]

Kevin...

Don's advice is excellent and reflects his many-faceted expertise with 
the K2. He repaired mine a while ago after I had reached the end of my 
line with the unit, and his advice here is always spot on.


I would offer a comment on Don's very last bit that less than 200 Hz is 
seldom necessary. Generally true. I have found that, when the QRN is 
high, either natural or human generated, bandwidths down to the K3's 50 
Hz DSP limit can sometimes be useful, even allowing for lost gain and 
the ringing and signal artifacts. Just a thought.


...robert

> On 1/31/2013 01:57, Don Wilhelm wrote:


It is rare that you will need less than 200 Hz of
filter width, but YMMV.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/30/2013 1:57 PM, Kevin Crossett wrote:



Is 50 hz too narrow. Are there better settings to
help dig out signals from a crowded band?


--
Robert G Strickland, PhD ABPH - KE2WY
verizon.net.usa
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] question about crystal filters and DSP audio filter settings

[Don Wilhelm]

Kevin,

Usually the KDSP default filter widths work fine,  I would suggest that 
you leave CW AFIL1 set for LoPass and normally use the IF filters for 
general use.  When you encounter QRM, then first narrow the IF filter, 
and then if still needed, start down the AFIL steps to resolve the signal.
In other words, there is only marginal benefit in using a 150 Hz KDSP2 
bandwidth if your IF filter is set to 1.5 or 0.7 kHz.  The offending 
strong signal will still take over the K2 AGC and you will hear 
'pumping' because the strong offending signal is controlling the AGC.


The KDSP2 filter skirts are steeper than the IF crystal filter skirts, 
and that is the main advantage.
Narrower bandwidth is not always the best cure, but the choices are 
entirely yours to make.  Experiment a bit while listening to DX Pileups 
or during a "hot and heavy" contest where the bands are crowded, and 
that experience will give you the information you need to set the KDSP 
filters the way they will be of the most advantage to you.  Your current 
setting may be quite adequate.
Your goal should be twofold - first is to reduce QRM from adjacent 
signals, and the second is to be able to pull weak signals out of a 
crowded band.  More narrow filter widths are not always the way to make 
that happen, but escaping from QRM with steeper filter skirts may work 
better.  A lot depends on your tuning skill as well as selection of the 
proper filters and the best way to develop that skill is to try it out 
on crowded band conditions.


It may be that you simply want to set the KDSP bandwidth to the same 
widths as the IF filters to take advantage of the steeper skirts. In 
other words, use AFIL2 in conjunction with IF FL2, AFIL3 in conjunction 
with IF FL3, etc.  It is rare that you will need less than 200 Hz of 
filter width, but YMMV.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/30/2013 1:57 PM, Kevin Crossett wrote:

Hello from Kevin, KK4LSG, in Seaford, Virginia. I recently completed my
beloved K2 and have been enjoying getting on the air with CW as much as
time will allow. I am a new operator, receiving my license in the fall of
2012.  I built the elecraft KDSP2 audio filter a few weekends ago, and have
been playing around with the settings to find an optimal filter width. I
seemingly understand that the crystal filters eliminate much of the
unwanted RF from ever entering the circuitry, and that the audio filter
further refines the signals before the signals exit the speaker. I
currently have the crystal filters set at 1.5 khz, 700 hz, 400 hz and 200
hz. The DSP filters are set to kick in at 150 hz, 100 hz and 50 hz. I read
somewhere that the crystal filters do a great job down to 200 hz and that
the DSP should be set to go narrower if needed. My question then is whether
the collective here recommends similar settings or is there a better way to
ensure adequate audio filter functionality without duplicating the efforts
of the crystal filters? Is 50 hz too narrow. Are there better settings to
help dig out signals from a crowded band? Any help is appreciated as I have
found little online that addresses the questions above in a way that I can
understand.



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[Elecraft] [K2] question about crystal filters and DSP audio filter settings

[Kevin Crossett]

Hello from Kevin, KK4LSG, in Seaford, Virginia. I recently completed my
beloved K2 and have been enjoying getting on the air with CW as much as
time will allow. I am a new operator, receiving my license in the fall of
2012.  I built the elecraft KDSP2 audio filter a few weekends ago, and have
been playing around with the settings to find an optimal filter width. I
seemingly understand that the crystal filters eliminate much of the
unwanted RF from ever entering the circuitry, and that the audio filter
further refines the signals before the signals exit the speaker. I
currently have the crystal filters set at 1.5 khz, 700 hz, 400 hz and 200
hz. The DSP filters are set to kick in at 150 hz, 100 hz and 50 hz. I read
somewhere that the crystal filters do a great job down to 200 hz and that
the DSP should be set to go narrower if needed. My question then is whether
the collective here recommends similar settings or is there a better way to
ensure adequate audio filter functionality without duplicating the efforts
of the crystal filters? Is 50 hz too narrow. Are there better settings to
help dig out signals from a crowded band? Any help is appreciated as I have
found little online that addresses the questions above in a way that I can
understand.

Kevin
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Christophe F8ACF-56]

hello list,

Thank you again now it is more clear to me.

 
73 , Christophe F8ACF-56



 De : Don Wilhelm 
À : Christophe F8ACF-56  
Cc : "elecraft@mailman.qth.net"  
Envoyé le : Lundi 22 octobre 2012 15h33
Objet : Re: [Elecraft] K2  Question
 
Christophe,
That header is to select the input to the internal K2 voltmeter.  If you 
are using that sincle wire probe that the manual instructs you to build, 
you will put the jumper on the two pins marked "EXT", but normally you 
will place it on the pins marked "INT"

Note, if you have th ejumper on EXT and do not connect a voltage to the 
probe, you will see an occasional "LO BAT" display flashed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/22/2012 6:26 AM, Christophe F8ACF-56 wrote:
> hello all,
>
> control board on K2, there "P7" he must put the rider in a unique position to 
> test or not to wear?
>
> there is nothing to indicate on this jumper, so I would ask.
>
> during assembly
>
> K2 # 7369
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Don Wilhelm]

Christophe,
That header is to select the input to the internal K2 voltmeter.  If you 
are using that sincle wire probe that the manual instructs you to build, 
you will put the jumper on the two pins marked "EXT", but normally you 
will place it on the pins marked "INT"

Note, if you have th ejumper on EXT and do not connect a voltage to the 
probe, you will see an occasional "LO BAT" display flashed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/22/2012 6:26 AM, Christophe F8ACF-56 wrote:
> hello all,
>
> control board on K2, there "P7" he must put the rider in a unique position to 
> test or not to wear?
>
> there is nothing to indicate on this jumper, so I would ask.
>
> during assembly
>
> K2 # 7369
>
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[Elecraft] K2 Question

[Christophe F8ACF-56]

hello all,

control board on K2, there "P7" he must put the rider in a unique position to 
test or not to wear?

there is nothing to indicate on this jumper, so I would ask.

during assembly

K2 # 7369
 
73 , Christophe F8ACF-56
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[Elecraft] [K2] question

[David Robertson]

According to the manual and having done this before, while in CW mode holding 
the Store button then selecting your message number (1 through 9) will allow me 
to record a CW message to that numbered memory. Now when I hold STORE and 
select the number the K2 returns back to the frequency display and no message 
is recorded. I have been doing some work to the K2 and might have screwed up 
some menu setting. Any Suggestions?

Thanks and 73
KD1NA
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Robert G. Strickland]

Alan...

I have the K2/100 as my exclusive radio. It has served all my needs 
admirably. Other radios are no doubt "better," but only marginally. The 
100w amp can be swapped out for QRP when that mode is desired. I operate 
virtually 100% cw and in this mode, it's a very serviceable radio. And, 
as many others have said, I built it myself!

...robert


On 7/20/2011 04:10, ardujen...@aol.com wrote:
> QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and
> occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate or
> do  you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both
> CW  (90%) and SSB (10%).
>
> Do those of you who have or had  the K2/20 have regrets not getting  the
> K2/100?
>
> Thank you in advance for your feedback
>
> Alan KB7MBI
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-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[ARDUJENSKI]

I want to thank all of you for the outpouring of comments and suggestions  
regarding the K2. I did not realize all the options available and you all 
have  provided me with good information to evaluate making my selection.
 
As mentioned to some, my goal is to get down to one main radio (besides my  
K1) which is capable of battery operation both at home and in the field and 
has  a good track record. As my soldering days are long behind me, the K2 
has a great  following upon which I feel I can rely.
 
Since I am a casual operator with no contesting desires other than sprints  
and 90% CW there are many features which would not be necessary. 
 
Regards
 
Alan  KB7MBI
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Eric Champine]

Hey Alan.
You could always do what I am doing.
I am building the K2/10 with the internal tuner and other add-on's for
portable use and I am also building the external antenna tuner in a second
enclosure with the 100w amp. When I am not using it portable I just hook up
the tuner/amp to make it a K2/100 with tuner. Coast a gbit more but gives
you the best of both worlds in my opinion. Hope that helps some how.

73 de W2EEC

Eric


"I am not making any plans, I am just letting the universe surprise me!
 John Cusack"
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Gary D Krause]

Hi Alan,

I also operate mostly CW with just a little SSB.  I have the KPA100 but, I 
find that most of my operating is done at 10 watts or less.  For me, operating 
SSB at ten watts is a blast.  In fact, I had a SSB contact with Aruba the 
other night with just ten watts.

Ten watts is quite adequate for CW, in my opinion.  About half of my contacts 
are QRP.  I should also say that I don't have any beam antennas.  I use only a 
vertical and magnetic loops.

It all depends on what you want and why you want it.

Have fun deciding!

Gary, N7HTS


On Wed, 20 Jul 2011 00:10:15 EDT
  ardujen...@aol.com wrote:
> QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and  
> occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate 
>or 
> do  you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both 
> CW  (90%) and SSB (10%).
> 
> Do those of you who have or had  the K2/20 have regrets not getting  the 
> K2/100?
> 
> Thank you in advance for your feedback
> 
> Alan KB7MBI
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Ron D'Eau Claire]

Of course you'll make more contacts with 100 watts than with 10 watts, but
10 watts, or less, is plenty of power to make lots of QSO's much of the
time. How much power one feels is necessary is a very personal decision. We
often joke about it, but there are those who truly consider 100 watts, or
even 500 watts, to be low power just as there are many Hams whose enjoyment
comes from "working the world" with 5 watts or less.

Don't forget that the K2 is designed to be both a highly-portable 10 watt
rig and a robust 100 watt rig. All you need do is switch top covers, which
only takes a couple of minutes. One top cover contains the KAT2 ATU and may
also include a battery for stand-alone portable operation at 10 watts. The
other top cover contains the 100 watt amplifier.

(BTW, the "barefoot" K2 is a 10 watt rig, not a 20 watt rig - it makes more
than 10 watts on most bands to ensure it meets the 10 watt requirement in
spite of nominal differences in components, supply voltage, etc. You can
expect it to make up to 15 watts on some bands. That's fine for CW. For SSB,
the IMD specs start to decline over 10 watts PEP.)

Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-
QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and  
occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate
or 
do  you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both

CW  (90%) and SSB (10%).
 
Do those of you who have or had  the K2/20 have regrets not getting  the 
K2/100?
 
Thank you in advance for your feedback
 
Alan KB7MBI

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question by Alan KB7MBI...

[John Ragle]

Hi, Alan...

 My history with these radios is as follows: (1) a few years back, I 
bought a K2/10 CW only as a kit for therapy on manual dexterity (chemo 
badly damaged my peripheral sensitivities). I put it together and used 
it for a while, then added first the ATU, then the 100 watt amp and 
later the ssb board, though I have been primarily a CW operator since my 
first license in 1946. This was a sweet little radio, and served me very 
well in this configuration for about a year.

 Then (2) "technolust" got hold of me, and I sold the K2 and bought 
a Flex 3000. This was an absolute disaster as a rig. The CW didn't work 
right, and the antenna tuner would not handle my 10 or 6 meter antennas 
because the values of the switched components were chosen too coarse 
(for the lower frequency bands, I guess).

 I sold the Flex 3K to a SSB/AM only guy (!!) and, needing no 
further physical therapy, (3) I bought a factory-assembled K3/100 with 
the interface and eventually with the XV144 external transverter, and 
have now used this combo for almost 2 years. I recently added a P3.

 My reaction is the following:

(a) the K3 is much the nicer rig than the K2, but it is somewhat 
heavier, larger, and best chosen for base station use.

(b) the Flex3000 ...well, enough said. The Flex1500 seems to have 
disappeared from the market (?). It was vaporware for years, and I guess 
people got tired of waiting.

(c) The K2/10 (no amp, no ssb) would make a very nice CW/transportable 
rig. If one wants to make use of PSK or other digital modes, or RTTY, 
then one would need to add the ssb board, since all that is done using AFSK.

(d) the K2 with ssb does not contain a soundcard interface, so one would 
need something like a SignaLink USB and a small netbook to go fully 
digital. When I was using the K2, I bought a SignaLink USB for it. I 
*still* use the SignaLink with the K3, as it is more flexible than the 
built-in capabilities in the K3. I run FLDIGI for all digital modes 
*except* CW, which I do "the old-fashioned way" with paddles.

For portable use, I have several of the QRP "riglets" -- a Small Wonders 
Labs PSK-20 which is a delight, and two of the Weber dual-band CW toy 
rigs (not yet completed). I still need to carry a small power supply (a 
regulated/filtered Notebook supply (mine is an MFJ 1317) and a small 
tuner, as "hotel antennas" are not great for matching without it. I use 
an ASUS EEE PC-901 which I got very inexpensively from an Amazon 
close-out. It works fine for the PSK-20, and runs either FLDIGI or 
DigiPan/Airlink Express (no SignaLink).

Now, as to the future...I am *definitely* going to get a KX3 with tuner 
when those become available. Again, one will have to carry a small power 
supply, but presumably the internal ATU will be just fine. For digital, 
I expect to be able to use the ASUS netbook.

Antennas are a real problem. I have a Buddipole but it is again much too 
cumbersome for hotelling.. Throwing a wire with a weight out the hotel 
window is not very satisfactory, though an end-fed half-wave is OK if 
you can get it away from the building a foot or two. This means a "jib" 
of fiberglass, which works just fine. Often there are no suitable 
grounds, e.g. radiators, etc. in a hotel room or suite, so quarter-wave 
antennas aren't much use unless you want to run a radial or two inside 
the room (ugh!). The Buddipole is fine for beach-front activities. One 
then needs a battery pack with some life to it, or a solar-cell supply.

I hope this gives you some grist for thinking. The two Elecraft boxes 
are just great. I have owned a lot of rigs in the past, e.g. home-built, 
Hallicrafters, Kenwood TS-520, TenTec Triton IV and Omni VI+, ICOM, etc. 
and I am super pleased with the Elecraft boxes; they are the best ever!. 
I run the K3 almost every day for a few QSOs, mostly with PSK on HF and 
SSB or CW on 6 and 2. On 2 the XV144 runs into a TE Systems amp.

John Ragle -- W1ZI

=

On 7/20/2011 12:10 AM, ardujen...@aol.com wrote:
> QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and
> occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate or
> do  you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both
> CW  (90%) and SSB (10%).
>
> Do those of you who have or had  the K2/20 have regrets not getting  the
> K2/100?

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Jessie Oberreuter]

  The basic 15w K2 w/ internal ATU is my primary rig and, as a mostly
CW op, completely meets my needs.  My contesting partner, Ki7el, runs a
40m MFJ on sideband, and we do just fine together.  Personally, we love
the ability to pack our gear in a pair of laptop bags and be on the air
with no fuss.  I've also operated a fair amount of sideband on the K2 and
it servers me just fine :).
  I did buy the 100w PA with my K3 b/c I thought it would be nice to 
have at least one radio with some punch, but I practically never turn the 
wick up.
  Wait, you have a K3 but the K2 is your primary rig?  Yep.  The K3 is
the fancy shack rig; the K2 lives on my bedroom desk and also does all of
the contest traveling.  What can I say?  It's smaller, lighter, simpler,
more at home in the rough, and it's a great performer!


On Wed, 20 Jul 2011, ardujen...@aol.com wrote:

> QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and
> occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate or
> do  you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both
> CW  (90%) and SSB (10%).
>
> Do those of you who have or had  the K2/20 have regrets not getting  the
> K2/100?
>
> Thank you in advance for your feedback
>
> Alan KB7MBI
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[Elecraft] K2 Question

[Johnny Siu]

Hello Alan,
 
If you are mostly CW, 15 watt output from K2 would be adequate for most of the 
cases.  I find the K2+KAT2 combination is very good  for field day because of 
the low standby current.
 
However, KX3 will be on the pipe line and offers similar or better 
performance.  It will depend on whether you really like a through hole 
soldering kit.  If yes, go for K2.

TNX & 73,


Johnny VR2XMC

從︰ "ardujen...@aol.com" 
收件人︰ elecraft@mailman.qth.net
傳送日期︰ 2011年07月20日 (週三) 12:10 PM
主題︰ [Elecraft] K2 Question

QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and  
occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate or 
do  you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both 
CW  (90%) and SSB (10%).

Do those of you who have or had  the K2/20 have regrets not getting  the 
K2/100?

Thank you in advance for your feedback

Alan KB7MBI
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[Elecraft] K2 Question

[ARDUJENSKI]

QUESTION: For those who have only one radio to use for base station and  
occasional field operations have you found the K2 to be more than adequate or 
do  you recommend the K2/100 with external ATU? I am a casual operator; both 
CW  (90%) and SSB (10%).
 
Do those of you who have or had  the K2/20 have regrets not getting  the 
K2/100?
 
Thank you in advance for your feedback
 
Alan KB7MBI
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question on Options

[Tony Estep]

On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 8:04 PM, R Thompson  wrote:

> I'll revisit digital modes of operation


There's more than just PSK and RTTY, of course. If you haven't tried WSPR or
JT65, check 'em out (just Google on them for a flood of info). They offer
variety and some experimental fun.

Tony KT0NY
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question on Options

[R Thompson]

   The comments on being able to rag chew in digital modes have been
great.  My first few experiences weren't encouraging and I was perhaps
too quick to form an opinion.  After I get the K2 up and running on CW,
and then SSB, I'll revisit digital modes of operation and maybe be a
little more patient.

   Thanks to all who replied!

 Ron VE8RT
  
On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 10:04 -0400, John Ragle wrote:
> Hello, Ron...
> 
> In past years I used my K2, my Flex 3000 (both sold, now) and my K3 on 
> one or another of the digital modes, e.g. CW and PSK31 for the most 
> part, but PSKxx (xx>31), Olivia, etc. as well. I would like to speak in 
> defense of these modes and in support of Elecraft's ability to run them 
> perfectly.
> 
> It seems to me that these modes are absolutely ideal for 
> chatting...sometimes my QSOs on PSK31 or PSK63 have lasted over an hour. 
> To be sure, there is routine information that is usually exchanged 
> during the initial part of a QSO (RSQ, name, QTH, etc), some of which 
> can be programmed into the macro keys that programs have available, but 
> the relaxed character of a contact makes it possible to have a real 
> conversation while drinking tea or eating soup, etc.
> 
> There are always a few people who seem to be counting coup (I call them 
> hello-goodbye QSOs), but you will find that behavior in any mode.  Have 
> you considered the possibility that your call sign (VE8RQ) might 
> intimidate people into having short QSOs? While not extraordinary DX, it 
> is a sufficiently rare prefix that some might want to "make room for the 
> next fellow." I think that digital modes deserve another try...
> 
> John Ragle --W1ZI
> 
> =
> 
> On 7/13/2011 9:20 AM, R Thompson wrote:
> > Thanks, but I'm not a fan of digital modes.  I tried them once, and
> > tried to have a QSO with someone.  He came back and told me that he
> > didn't QSO, and only sent the info that was pre-programmed in to the
> > function keys.  Other attempts resulted in similar responses.  So I
> > nick-named digital operation a "push-button" mode, and decided that it
> > wasn't for me.
> 


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[Geoffrey Mackenzie-Kennedy]

Ron,

I opted to include the KAF2 option when building my K2/100 rather than the 
DSP option, and have found that the KAF2 audio filter is a worthwhile 
addition to the receiver. FWIW I use a sidetone (beat note) between 350 and 
400 Hz when copying CW, and when there is a lot of "on frequency" QRM the 
KAF2 can help to dig out a weak DX SSB signal.

73,
Geoff
GM4ESD (ex VE3GL, VE2AIO etc)


On July 13, 2011 at 05:28 Z,  R Thompson wrote:

> I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
> impressions are.  I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've
> experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no
> longer sounds natural.  So I'm leaning towards getting the filter.







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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[Gary D Krause]

Ron,

One thing that I forgot to mention is that even though I like the DSP in the 
K2, I still use an external analog audio filter.  Sometimes it helps and 
sometimes not.  I'm not completely sold on DSP as it now stands.  The 
filtering is great but, the denoiser, as most denoisers that I have heard, 
have a ways to go, in my opinion.  That includes IF as well as audio DSP.  I 
still think that analog audio filters are very affective if not just as 
affective.  But, then again, everyone seems to have a different opinion. ;-)

Gary, N7HTS




On Wed, 13 Jul 2011 07:15:14 -0600
  R Thompson  wrote:
> Thanks for all the replies,
> 
> that settles it for me, as I haven't enjoyed my own experiences
> with DSP, I'll order the KAF2.  And I'll consider the anti-ringing
> modification.  
> 
>  Ron VE8RT
> 
> On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 03:32 -0700, Bill W4ZV wrote:
>> R Thompson wrote:
>> > 
>> >  I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
>> > impressions are.  I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've
>> > experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no
>> > longer sounds natural.  So I'm leaning towards getting the filter.
>> > 
>> 
>> I have the KAF2 but to be honest I seldom use it.  For some reason I've
>> never found audio filters to be of much help.  My experience goes back to
>> the Autek QF-1A, SCAT filters, many different outboard DSP filters, etc. 
>> I'm sure they work well for others but I've never found them to work for my
>> ears which seem to prefer wider audio (~350 Hz) before reaching my
>> ear/brain's DSP stage.  One exception is the K3's APF which is occasionally
>> helpful under certain conditions.
>> 
>> Here's some more information on the KAF2 which might help you decide.  I
>> used KI6WX's standard AF1 and "low-ringing" AF2 values in my unit:
>> 
>> http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/kaf2_filter_modifications.pdf
>> 
>> 73,  Bill
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>>http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-question-on-options-tp6577413p6578509.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> __
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> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[Andrew Moore]

You're not alone -- this is a common tough decision.

I went through this exercise, trying both the KAF2 and the KDSP2, including
side by side comparisons between them. Sounds like you already found your
answer, but if there's any remaining uncertainty I'll be glad to go into
detail offline (will have to dig up some old emails on this).

In short, I found that:

The differences in performance are small.

The differences in sound quality are medium.

The differences in user interface and complexity are big. The KDSP2 is a
highly tweakable/configurable option.

I think that for a CW-only op, the KAF2 is the way to go, and that for an op
that also does SSB, data, DX and contesting, the KDSP2 is the way to go.

NOTE:  Be sure to re-adjust your KAF2 if you change your K2's sidetone
frequency.

After owning both, I found the KAF2 much more compatible with my needs (I
prefer simplicity and CW only).

I would not recommend basing your decision solely on performance around the
reception of a signal (as in ide by side comparison).  I think the
differences are just too small.  Think more about your operating philosophy
and your needs (modes operated).

Also, if you plan to exploit the KDSP2's expandability by writing custom DSP
code, be prepared to invest a fair amount of time and effort (and some dev
tools). I was eager to go that route but ended up deciding against it. I
think Elecraft ended up doing most of that good work for us. Definitely
would be a fun exercise and learning experience, but be prepared to invest
some effort.

73,
--Andrew, NV1B


On Wed, Jul 13, 2011 at 9:15 AM, R Thompson  wrote:

> Thanks for all the replies,
>
> that settles it for me, as I haven't enjoyed my own experiences
> with DSP, I'll order the KAF2.  And I'll consider the anti-ringing
> modification.
>
>  Ron VE8RT
>
> On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 03:32 -0700, Bill W4ZV wrote:
> > R Thompson wrote:
> > >
> > >  I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
> > > impressions are.  I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've
> > > experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no
> > > longer sounds natural.  So I'm leaning towards getting the filter.
> > >
> >
> > I have the KAF2 but to be honest I seldom use it.  For some reason I've
> > never found audio filters to be of much help.  My experience goes back to
> > the Autek QF-1A, SCAT filters, many different outboard DSP filters, etc.
> > I'm sure they work well for others but I've never found them to work for
> my
> > ears which seem to prefer wider audio (~350 Hz) before reaching my
> > ear/brain's DSP stage.  One exception is the K3's APF which is
> occasionally
> > helpful under certain conditions.
> >
> > Here's some more information on the KAF2 which might help you decide.  I
> > used KI6WX's standard AF1 and "low-ringing" AF2 values in my unit:
> >
> > http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/kaf2_filter_modifications.pdf
> >
> > 73,  Bill
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > View this message in context:
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-question-on-options-tp6577413p6578509.html
> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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> >
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>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question on Options

[John Ragle]

Hello, Ron...

In past years I used my K2, my Flex 3000 (both sold, now) and my K3 on 
one or another of the digital modes, e.g. CW and PSK31 for the most 
part, but PSKxx (xx>31), Olivia, etc. as well. I would like to speak in 
defense of these modes and in support of Elecraft's ability to run them 
perfectly.

It seems to me that these modes are absolutely ideal for 
chatting...sometimes my QSOs on PSK31 or PSK63 have lasted over an hour. 
To be sure, there is routine information that is usually exchanged 
during the initial part of a QSO (RSQ, name, QTH, etc), some of which 
can be programmed into the macro keys that programs have available, but 
the relaxed character of a contact makes it possible to have a real 
conversation while drinking tea or eating soup, etc.

There are always a few people who seem to be counting coup (I call them 
hello-goodbye QSOs), but you will find that behavior in any mode.  Have 
you considered the possibility that your call sign (VE8RQ) might 
intimidate people into having short QSOs? While not extraordinary DX, it 
is a sufficiently rare prefix that some might want to "make room for the 
next fellow." I think that digital modes deserve another try...

John Ragle --W1ZI

=

On 7/13/2011 9:20 AM, R Thompson wrote:
> Thanks, but I'm not a fan of digital modes.  I tried them once, and
> tried to have a QSO with someone.  He came back and told me that he
> didn't QSO, and only sent the info that was pre-programmed in to the
> function keys.  Other attempts resulted in similar responses.  So I
> nick-named digital operation a "push-button" mode, and decided that it
> wasn't for me.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[R Thompson]

Thanks for all the replies,

 that settles it for me, as I haven't enjoyed my own experiences
with DSP, I'll order the KAF2.  And I'll consider the anti-ringing
modification.  

  Ron VE8RT

On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 03:32 -0700, Bill W4ZV wrote:
> R Thompson wrote:
> > 
> >  I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
> > impressions are.  I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've
> > experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no
> > longer sounds natural.  So I'm leaning towards getting the filter.
> > 
> 
> I have the KAF2 but to be honest I seldom use it.  For some reason I've
> never found audio filters to be of much help.  My experience goes back to
> the Autek QF-1A, SCAT filters, many different outboard DSP filters, etc. 
> I'm sure they work well for others but I've never found them to work for my
> ears which seem to prefer wider audio (~350 Hz) before reaching my
> ear/brain's DSP stage.  One exception is the K3's APF which is occasionally
> helpful under certain conditions.
> 
> Here's some more information on the KAF2 which might help you decide.  I
> used KI6WX's standard AF1 and "low-ringing" AF2 values in my unit:
> 
> http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/kaf2_filter_modifications.pdf
> 
> 73,  Bill
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-question-on-options-tp6577413p6578509.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[Bill W4ZV]

R Thompson wrote:
> 
>  I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
> impressions are.  I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've
> experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no
> longer sounds natural.  So I'm leaning towards getting the filter.
> 

I have the KAF2 but to be honest I seldom use it.  For some reason I've
never found audio filters to be of much help.  My experience goes back to
the Autek QF-1A, SCAT filters, many different outboard DSP filters, etc. 
I'm sure they work well for others but I've never found them to work for my
ears which seem to prefer wider audio (~350 Hz) before reaching my
ear/brain's DSP stage.  One exception is the K3's APF which is occasionally
helpful under certain conditions.

Here's some more information on the KAF2 which might help you decide.  I
used KI6WX's standard AF1 and "low-ringing" AF2 values in my unit:

http://home.pacbell.net/johngreb/kaf2_filter_modifications.pdf

73,  Bill





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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[R Thompson]

Thanks Robert,

 that was very helpful.  I wouldn't consider myself a CW op, but it
is my preferred mode.  My CW is distinguished by 'tick' like random
moments when I can't even send my own call sign right.  

 I would like to hear from someone who has the filter, what their
impressions are.  I'm not overly impressed with the DSP as I've
experienced it on my IC-703, but it can make a difference even if it no
longer sounds natural.  So I'm leaning towards getting the filter.

 The K3 was too much radio for me, the station here now is a 50W
analog TT Argosy running off of SLA batteries and solar charged.  With
respect to the amplifier, I thought about waiting to see what the
external 100W amplifier being designed for the KX3 will be like.  It
would be nice to have the K2 as a battery portable, and an external
power amplifier when needed.  SSB is a must have, for checking into
nets.  It can be done in CW, but SSB is more convenient especially if
the net control doesn't copy CW, or when you need a relay and the relay
station cannot copy CW.

 I was thinking of the 160M option, but more for the 2nd (receiver)
antenna input than actually using it on 160.  If I add it, it will be
later.  And I'd like the transverter mod.  But at the same time I don't
want to have rarely used options drawing current from my batteries.

 Other reasons for buying the K2 over any other radio are, its
battery friendly with both reasonable current draw and lower voltage
operation.  It is also a reasonable size to travel with, and I'm
considering it for possible mobile operation (with an external power
amplifier).

 Wish I could play a guitar, or something, I don't seem to have that
kind of talent :-(

Ron VE8RT

On Wed, 2011-07-13 at 03:51 +, Robert G. Strickland wrote:
> Ron...
> 
> The K2 here has all possible options: 160m, nb, ssb, dsp and amp. 
> Obviously, there's little reduntancy in this list. So, how useful is 
> each mod? I have no antenna capability on 160m, so aside from some 
> listening, of little use. Depends on how serious you are about 160m. The 
> NB at times does wonders in a quiet, urban setting, yet doesn't stop all 
> noise. A good buy. I'm virtually all CW here, using ssb when it's the 
> only option for rare DX. The SSB module does well enough without any 
> bells and whistles. If you lean towards SSB, then necessary; elsewise, a 
> sub-hobby. The DSP is quite versitile with lots of adjustments. The 
> implementation of the DSP technique is beyond my evaluation; there may 
> be much better out there, or maybe not. That said, I can taylor its 
> action in ways that I find regularly useful, again on cw. I've listened 
> to SSB using the DSP, and I find it of no help for me and noteably 
> worse, again from my own subjective experience. I have not tried the 
> passive filter that is available. I read that those who have them 
> generally consider them to be useful. The few A-B comparisons between 
> the AF and DSP units that have appeared tend to favor the DSP rather 
> than reject the filter. Your ear may sound different. I like the amp. I 
> drive a 500w amp in contests and sometimes for DX, so the amp is 
> required for drive. By itself, at any spot from 10w to 100w, it's a 
> nifty performer. If you see yourself as being a K2, QRP'er,  then the 
> amp is obviously not necessary. Otherwise, nice/required. The K3 is not 
> that much further out of financial reach, and that should be considered. 
> On the other hand, building/assembling a K2 and its mods tends to give 
> one a lifetime of inner ham radio satisfaction, as you probably know. 
> That's good therapy all by itself.
> 
> So, that's my take on it, from a very small pistol, who is happy to 
> break into the top 25, occasionally, when not playing guitar.
> 
> Have a good day. 73 to all
> 
> ...robert
> 
> On 7/13/2011 01:21, R Thompson wrote:
> > My K2 is near completion, minus the options, which haven't been ordered
> > yet.  There is one or two where a decision must be made, and I'd very
> > much appreciate some help with them.
> >
> > The big one would be whether to add on the traditional audio filter or
> > the DSP instead.  I'd like to keep current draw down for battery
> > operation, and I'm not sure if I like the sound of heavily DSP filtered
> > audio (as it sounds on my IC-703).  The bigger noise issues I have seem
> > to be AC power line buzz, and ignition noise if I use it mobile.
> > Hopefully the noise blanker option will handle the latter.  Is DPS worth
> > the extra money and load on a battery?
> >
> > Other options I'm looking to add are the noise blanker, the SSB board,
> > and likely the transverter and 160 metre options.
> >
> > Any recommendations?
> >
> > Ron VE8RT
> >
> > __
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> > Post: mailto:Elecraf

Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[David Dietrich]

Hi Ron!

I just bought a K2 after wanting one for the last few years. I haven't built it 
yet, but here is a rundown of what I got:

KNB2-a noise blanker is always nice to have. 

K160M-not ideal for QRP, but still it is worth trying. 

KAF2-I am mostly a CW guy. My ICOM and Yaesu both have DSP, and I don't like 
the audio quality. Sometimes analog filters are better. I have heard that the 
KAF2 is more intended for the CW crowd. 

KSB2-although I am a CW guy, I got this option because I wanted the filter 
options and the better audio fidelity on SSB receive

KAT2-since this is going to be one of the QRP rigs I would take on trips, the 
antenna tuner saves me from having to lug an external one. 

I did not get the internal battery. I figure a external gel cell can power all 
my radios in the field. 

Hope this helps!

73,

David
KC9EHQ
K1 s/n 2051
K2 s/n 7164

Sent from my iPod
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question on options

[Robert G. Strickland]

Ron...

The K2 here has all possible options: 160m, nb, ssb, dsp and amp. 
Obviously, there's little reduntancy in this list. So, how useful is 
each mod? I have no antenna capability on 160m, so aside from some 
listening, of little use. Depends on how serious you are about 160m. The 
NB at times does wonders in a quiet, urban setting, yet doesn't stop all 
noise. A good buy. I'm virtually all CW here, using ssb when it's the 
only option for rare DX. The SSB module does well enough without any 
bells and whistles. If you lean towards SSB, then necessary; elsewise, a 
sub-hobby. The DSP is quite versitile with lots of adjustments. The 
implementation of the DSP technique is beyond my evaluation; there may 
be much better out there, or maybe not. That said, I can taylor its 
action in ways that I find regularly useful, again on cw. I've listened 
to SSB using the DSP, and I find it of no help for me and noteably 
worse, again from my own subjective experience. I have not tried the 
passive filter that is available. I read that those who have them 
generally consider them to be useful. The few A-B comparisons between 
the AF and DSP units that have appeared tend to favor the DSP rather 
than reject the filter. Your ear may sound different. I like the amp. I 
drive a 500w amp in contests and sometimes for DX, so the amp is 
required for drive. By itself, at any spot from 10w to 100w, it's a 
nifty performer. If you see yourself as being a K2, QRP'er,  then the 
amp is obviously not necessary. Otherwise, nice/required. The K3 is not 
that much further out of financial reach, and that should be considered. 
On the other hand, building/assembling a K2 and its mods tends to give 
one a lifetime of inner ham radio satisfaction, as you probably know. 
That's good therapy all by itself.

So, that's my take on it, from a very small pistol, who is happy to 
break into the top 25, occasionally, when not playing guitar.

Have a good day. 73 to all

...robert

On 7/13/2011 01:21, R Thompson wrote:
> My K2 is near completion, minus the options, which haven't been ordered
> yet.  There is one or two where a decision must be made, and I'd very
> much appreciate some help with them.
>
> The big one would be whether to add on the traditional audio filter or
> the DSP instead.  I'd like to keep current draw down for battery
> operation, and I'm not sure if I like the sound of heavily DSP filtered
> audio (as it sounds on my IC-703).  The bigger noise issues I have seem
> to be AC power line buzz, and ignition noise if I use it mobile.
> Hopefully the noise blanker option will handle the latter.  Is DPS worth
> the extra money and load on a battery?
>
> Other options I'm looking to add are the noise blanker, the SSB board,
> and likely the transverter and 160 metre options.
>
> Any recommendations?
>
> Ron VE8RT
>
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-- 
Robert G. Strickland, PhD, ABPH - KE2WY
rc...@verizon.net
Syracuse, New York, USA
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[Elecraft] K2 question on options

[R Thompson]

My K2 is near completion, minus the options, which haven't been ordered
yet.  There is one or two where a decision must be made, and I'd very
much appreciate some help with them.

The big one would be whether to add on the traditional audio filter or
the DSP instead.  I'd like to keep current draw down for battery
operation, and I'm not sure if I like the sound of heavily DSP filtered
audio (as it sounds on my IC-703).  The bigger noise issues I have seem
to be AC power line buzz, and ignition noise if I use it mobile.
Hopefully the noise blanker option will handle the latter.  Is DPS worth
the extra money and load on a battery?

Other options I'm looking to add are the noise blanker, the SSB board,
and likely the transverter and 160 metre options.

Any recommendations?

   Ron VE8RT

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Don Wilhelm]

  Tom,

You made some cuts and added some wire to the Control Board when adding 
the KIO2 if your K2 SN was less than 3000 (the new boards already have 
this change installed.

No need to reverse that wiring, just unplug the KIO2 cable and all will 
be well.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/28/2011 11:17 PM, Tom McCulloch wrote:
> I have an early serial numbered K2 (#1103) which I am running barefoot.
> Among other options, I have installed the KI02 and ATU.  Those who have
> built the earlier models will recall the need to cut some of the the
> traces on one of the front panel boards (there are two boards up there -
> I forget which one was cut).
>
> I now find it necessary to remove my KI02 and I will probably have to
> replace it (don't ask!).  My question to the group is -- in light of my
> having cut those traces, will the ATU still tune if I remove the KI02?
> (I forget if we cut the traces when installing the KI02 or the ATU).
>
> I hope at least some of this makes sense.
>
> Thanks in advance for your usual help.
>
> 73
> Tom WB2QDG
> K2 1103
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[Elecraft] K2 Question

[Tom McCulloch]

I have an early serial numbered K2 (#1103) which I am running barefoot.  
Among other options, I have installed the KI02 and ATU.  Those who have 
built the earlier models will recall the need to cut some of the the 
traces on one of the front panel boards (there are two boards up there - 
I forget which one was cut).

I now find it necessary to remove my KI02 and I will probably have to 
replace it (don't ask!).  My question to the group is -- in light of my 
having cut those traces, will the ATU still tune if I remove the KI02?  
(I forget if we cut the traces when installing the KI02 or the ATU).

I hope at least some of this makes sense.

Thanks in advance for your usual help.

73
Tom WB2QDG
K2 1103
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Question on control board

[Don Wilhelm]

  John,

R7 is needed for the base K2 current sense.  You should have changed it 
to 1.78 k when you did the A to B upgrade.  OTOH, C44 is not used, if 
you have any capacitor (to ground) installed that connects to the 
emitter of Q11 and one end of R7, remove it, but leave the resistor in.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/30/2010 8:13 PM, John Wingard wrote:
> I'm in the process of upgrading my K2/10 (SN 1057) to a K2/100. I am also 
> finishing up the KAT100 tuner and have a question. The tuner instructions 
> state to remove C44 from the K2 control board. I have a Revision A control 
> board without a C44. It also states that if this is the case, a capacitor may 
> have been soldered directly across R7. On my board, a resistor is installed 
> at R7 (no capacitor). Do I leave R7 in or take it out? Incidentally, I did 
> all of the Rev A to B mods a number of years ago, so this looks like the only 
> thing left to check on the control board before proceeding.
>
> Tnx de John, WB4GLJ
>
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[Elecraft] K2 - Question on control board

[John Wingard]

I'm in the process of upgrading my K2/10 (SN 1057) to a K2/100. I am also 
finishing up the KAT100 tuner and have a question. The tuner instructions state 
to remove C44 from the K2 control board. I have a Revision A control board 
without a C44. It also states that if this is the case, a capacitor may have 
been soldered directly across R7. On my board, a resistor is installed at R7 
(no capacitor). Do I leave R7 in or take it out? Incidentally, I did all of the 
Rev A to B mods a number of years ago, so this looks like the only thing left 
to check on the control board before proceeding.

Tnx de John, WB4GLJ

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Question about tuning K2 for SSB..

[w2bvh]

  You can adjust the ssb filter by listening to your own voice on the 
rig and adjusting the ssb filter to what sounds best to you. To monitor 
your own voice set the SSBA option to "BAL". Then got to CAL FIL for the 
filter you want to adjust and adjust it (a little at a time) while 
talking into the mic.  The only caveat is that your mic has to be hot 
(making a signal) when the PTT line is *not* active. If your mic opens 
the mic signal line when PTT is not pressed you will have to temporarily 
jump out the switch contact that opens that signal.  I found it was 
better if someone else was listening to my voice on the headphones 
instead of myself. They'll let you know when you have adjusted the ssb 
filter for the best audio.

Don't forget to reset the SSBA "BAL" option back to its previous value 
after you're done.

Sounds harder than it is. You can probably do the whole thing in 1/2 hour.

GL & 73,
Lenny W2BVH



On 11/3/2010 10:20 PM, VK7JB wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I'm learning to drive my new K2/100 and have reached a conceptual block that
> will betray a fundamental lack of understanding, but here goes anyway...
>
> My K2 dial frequency reads about 20hz under the actual frequency - receiving
> WWV on 1.00, the LCD frequency readout reads .98.  That's all good.
> But,  when I'm working SSB and want to make contact with a station already
> transmitting on a particular frequency, how do I handle the tuning to ensure
> I'm transmitting on his frequency exactly.  Do I tune my K2 to achieve best
> resolved  audio receiving his signal, regardless of the actual frequency
> displayed on my LCD,  then assume when I hit TX I'll be transmitting exactly
> on his frequency?  Or is there any other way to account for this small 20hz
> shift, to make sure I'm transmitting exactly where he is tuned?
>
> I'm running my K2 with the MH-2 mic and last night got reports of "muffled"
> audio.  I suspect I'll need to tweak the SSB filter passband position- the
> position looks good on Spectrogram with the low frequency roll off for the
> SSB Tx filter sitting around 300hz, but I understand it may need some
> "optimising" with  live audio monitoring.  I did wonder  if my tuning
> technique was contributing to the problem - perhaps I'm not transmitting
> exactly where they're listening.
>
> I hope that makes sense.  Any advice always gratefully received,
>
> 73,
> John
> VK7JB


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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Question about tuning K2 for SSB..

[Don Wilhelm]

  John,

A 20 Hz mis-tuning of a SSB signal usually will not be noticed, 50 Hz 
maybe, and 100 Hz definitely.

So yes, you would normally tune the station until it 'sounds right' and 
then transmit.  That assumes that you are using the same filter for 
transmit and receive.

You can make some trials with tests made with another ham who knows how 
you should sound.
Move the filter passband up or down in 25 Hz increments to see if you 
have achieved a more suitable position for your voice.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/3/2010 10:20 PM, VK7JB wrote:
> Hi All,
>
> I'm learning to drive my new K2/100 and have reached a conceptual block that
> will betray a fundamental lack of understanding, but here goes anyway...
>
> My K2 dial frequency reads about 20hz under the actual frequency - receiving
> WWV on 1.00, the LCD frequency readout reads .98.  That's all good.
> But,  when I'm working SSB and want to make contact with a station already
> transmitting on a particular frequency, how do I handle the tuning to ensure
> I'm transmitting on his frequency exactly.  Do I tune my K2 to achieve best
> resolved  audio receiving his signal, regardless of the actual frequency
> displayed on my LCD,  then assume when I hit TX I'll be transmitting exactly
> on his frequency?  Or is there any other way to account for this small 20hz
> shift, to make sure I'm transmitting exactly where he is tuned?
>
> I'm running my K2 with the MH-2 mic and last night got reports of "muffled"
> audio.  I suspect I'll need to tweak the SSB filter passband position- the
> position looks good on Spectrogram with the low frequency roll off for the
> SSB Tx filter sitting around 300hz, but I understand it may need some
> "optimising" with  live audio monitoring.  I did wonder  if my tuning
> technique was contributing to the problem - perhaps I'm not transmitting
> exactly where they're listening.
>
> I hope that makes sense.  Any advice always gratefully received,
>
> 73,
> John
> VK7JB
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[Elecraft] [K2] Question about tuning K2 for SSB..

[VK7JB]

Hi All,

I'm learning to drive my new K2/100 and have reached a conceptual block that
will betray a fundamental lack of understanding, but here goes anyway...

My K2 dial frequency reads about 20hz under the actual frequency - receiving
WWV on 1.00, the LCD frequency readout reads .98.  That's all good. 
But,  when I'm working SSB and want to make contact with a station already
transmitting on a particular frequency, how do I handle the tuning to ensure
I'm transmitting on his frequency exactly.  Do I tune my K2 to achieve best
resolved  audio receiving his signal, regardless of the actual frequency
displayed on my LCD,  then assume when I hit TX I'll be transmitting exactly
on his frequency?  Or is there any other way to account for this small 20hz
shift, to make sure I'm transmitting exactly where he is tuned?

I'm running my K2 with the MH-2 mic and last night got reports of "muffled"
audio.  I suspect I'll need to tweak the SSB filter passband position- the
position looks good on Spectrogram with the low frequency roll off for the
SSB Tx filter sitting around 300hz, but I understand it may need some
"optimising" with  live audio monitoring.  I did wonder  if my tuning
technique was contributing to the problem - perhaps I'm not transmitting
exactly where they're listening.

I hope that makes sense.  Any advice always gratefully received,

73, 
John
VK7JB
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K2-Question-about-tuning-K2-for-SSB-tp5703977p5703977.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question(s)

[Don Wilhelm]

John,

There are several possibilities on the power tripping off (which is what 
has happened when you see the "Elecraft" in the display).
First is that the diodes in the KPA100 wattmeter D16 and D17 have been 
damaged by lightning or some other static from the antenna (we will 
likely see a number of those following Field Day).
You can check for that condition quickly by checking the power output 
with an external meter and the K2 power requested set to about 20 
watts.  If the actual power output is much greater than the requested 
power, then there is a problem with the KPA100 wattmeter, and the diodes 
are the first suspect.

The same condition can explain the HiCur messages.

I don't have an answer about the lack of RX audio - it sounds like it 
got stuck in transmit for a bit.  It is not a relay (unless it was in 
the tuner), the K2 T/R switching is entirely electronic.

73,
Don W3FPR

John Parnell wrote:
> Hi - I have been playing with a newly purchased K2/100 (an older 19xx serial 
> number with numerous "factory"mods/ updates to 2008 and 2.04P firmware, NB, 
> and SSB). I am at a disadvantage in that I didn't build it myself and am not 
> familiar with it "under the hood". Road testing the K2 for the 1st time in 
> FD, I noted several items and am not sure whether to label them "quirks" or 
> "problems"... (before posting here, I DID look at the manual,  used a search 
> engine and browsed this list's archives)
>
> -- When using it for the 1st time, when I pressed the mike button a few 
> times, the power would cycle briefly; I would see the "Elecraft" logo and it 
> would return to freq. I checked the SWR and confirmed that it was well below 
> 2:1. I used an LDG Z100 ATU to a G5RV. I did double check the power 
> connections from the K2 to my Astron 20 and have been running it at 95 W and 
> less (the display goes up to 111 watts all the way C-W). I have been using 
> the PS with no problem on my other rig, a FT-857D
>
> - I noticed sometimes that when hitting the mic button, the display will 
> sometimes briefly resister the HI CURRENT warning...also, sometimes, only 
> briefly just before the ATU kicks it in tune, but sometimes it is when the 
> SWR is close to 1:1 during the course of normal operations. I note that the 
> CAL/CURRENT threshold is set properly to the 3.5 amp default. 
>
> - One time, the RX audio from the speaker went dead - without me touching 
> anything.  I tried plugging in an external speaker and it was still dead. I 
> turned the rig off and on, and it was OK. This has happened only once
>
> I used the radio for 3-4 hours heavily on 3 bands during FD and it worked 
> great. The above problems did not really get in the way, but I am concerned 
> that they might indicated a problem(s) that needs to be addressed. Any clues 
> greatly appreciated you may reply direct if you wish. It is a sweet 
> little rig. I hope it is OK
>
> -73 de John, k7hv
> jparnellATigc.org
> AT=@ for anti spam
>
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[Elecraft] K2 Question(s)

[John Parnell]

Hi - I have been playing with a newly purchased K2/100 (an older 19xx serial 
number with numerous "factory"mods/ updates to 2008 and 2.04P firmware, NB, and 
SSB). I am at a disadvantage in that I didn't build it myself and am not 
familiar with it "under the hood". Road testing the K2 for the 1st time in FD, 
I noted several items and am not sure whether to label them "quirks" or 
"problems"... (before posting here, I DID look at the manual,  used a search 
engine and browsed this list's archives)

-- When using it for the 1st time, when I pressed the mike button a few times, 
the power would cycle briefly; I would see the "Elecraft" logo and it would 
return to freq. I checked the SWR and confirmed that it was well below 2:1. I 
used an LDG Z100 ATU to a G5RV. I did double check the power connections from 
the K2 to my Astron 20 and have been running it at 95 W and less (the display 
goes up to 111 watts all the way C-W). I have been using the PS with no problem 
on my other rig, a FT-857D

- I noticed sometimes that when hitting the mic button, the display will 
sometimes briefly resister the HI CURRENT warning...also, sometimes, only 
briefly just before the ATU kicks it in tune, but sometimes it is when the SWR 
is close to 1:1 during the course of normal operations. I note that the 
CAL/CURRENT threshold is set properly to the 3.5 amp default. 

- One time, the RX audio from the speaker went dead - without me touching 
anything.  I tried plugging in an external speaker and it was still dead. I 
turned the rig off and on, and it was OK. This has happened only once

I used the radio for 3-4 hours heavily on 3 bands during FD and it worked 
great. The above problems did not really get in the way, but I am concerned 
that they might indicated a problem(s) that needs to be addressed. Any clues 
greatly appreciated you may reply direct if you wish. It is a sweet little 
rig. I hope it is OK

-73 de John, k7hv
jparnellATigc.org
AT=@ for anti spam

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Don Wilhelm]

Dan,

Safely, yes.  With certainty, maybe.  Just test them with an ohmmeter as 
you would for any NPN transistor - base to collector resistance, base to 
emitter resistance - some resistance with the probes in one direction 
and no conduction in the other direction..  You may find the resistances 
lower than with them out of circuit, but it should give you some idea 
about their health.  If they show zero ohms in both directions, they are 
for sure bad.

73,
Don W3FPR

Dan Grizzard wrote:
>  Hello all,
> Is there a way to check the PA transisters in my K2 safely while still 
> installed?
> Thanks in advance.
> Dan
> af4lb
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K2 question

[Dan Grizzard]

 Hello all,
Is there a way to check the PA transisters in my K2 safely while still 
installed?
Thanks in advance.
Dan
af4lb
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 - Question KIO2

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

It should be easy to get the nut back on.  Remove the assembly from the 
K2 - then attach the nut to the shell with either one of the jackscrews 
provided or use a chasiss screw.  Then re-solder the nut onto the shell 
- use a large iron tip with a lot of heat mass.  Use more solder than 
you did the last time :-) .

Make the DC voltage checks on the board and report back to us if you 
have not found the problem.
Let us know what software you have to drive the KIO2 and perhaps we can 
make further suggestions.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom McCulloch wrote:
> I'm having a bit of trouble with the KIO2 in my K2 and when I was poking 
> around to see what was what, one of the brass nuts came off of J1 (J1 is the 
> nine pin jack that sticks out the back of the K2).  The two brass nuts were 
> originally soldered onto J1 before J1 was attached to the KIO2 PC board. But 
> now that it's attached I can't get the nut back on.
>
> Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get that nut back on to J1, I 
> can't seem to hold it in place to re-solder.  I'm tempted to try a drop of 
> crazy glue?
>
> The KIO2  still doesn't seem to be communicating.  I re-soldered all of the 
> J1 connections to the PC board, which was suggested in the troubleshooting 
> section of the manual, but it's still not talking to my computer (that's how 
> the problem with the nut started).
>   
>
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[Elecraft] K2 - Question KIO2

[Tom McCulloch]

I'm having a bit of trouble with the KIO2 in my K2 and when I was poking 
around to see what was what, one of the brass nuts came off of J1 (J1 is the 
nine pin jack that sticks out the back of the K2).  The two brass nuts were 
originally soldered onto J1 before J1 was attached to the KIO2 PC board. But 
now that it's attached I can't get the nut back on.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to how to get that nut back on to J1, I 
can't seem to hold it in place to re-solder.  I'm tempted to try a drop of 
crazy glue?

The KIO2  still doesn't seem to be communicating.  I re-soldered all of the 
J1 connections to the PC board, which was suggested in the troubleshooting 
section of the manual, but it's still not talking to my computer (that's how 
the problem with the nut started).

Thanks in advance for any suggestions you may offer.

73 de,
Tom
WB2QDG
K2 #1103 

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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Question about cheap and dirty signal tracing

[Kevin Cozens]

Thank you Don, and Tom, for your replies.

Don Wilhelm wrote:
> It is normal to see a higher response touching a random, wire to C6 
> compared to touching the same wire to W6.  The C6 location is a high 
> impedance point while the W6 and D6 locations are low impedance - the 
> capacitive dividers (C7,8 and C4,5) reduce the impedance.

That makes sense. I knew something was odd when the signal levels at the 
test points before and after C6 gave the same but lower audible signal.

> If you are getting about the same response at D6 and W6, then the 
> bandpass filter is probably OK.

It would be nice to get my problems resolved in time for the local 
provincial QSO party which takes place around the third weekend in 
April. I think the only way to be sure whether the receiver of my K2 is 
up to snuff or not is to order an XG2 signal generator kit. That will 
help me to get a more accurate idea on the receivers sensitivity when 
running with and without the KAT2 (in case the KAT2 has been 
contributing in any way to apparent sensitivity problems).


If the cheap and dirty tracing doesn't seem to turn up any issues I'll 
have to start getting in there with the scope and check the voltage 
measurements at various points noted in the manual.
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Question about cheap and dirty signal tracing

[Don Wilhelm]

Kevin,

It is normal to see a higher response touching a random, wire to C6 
compared to touching the same wire to W6.  The C6 location is a high 
impedance point while the W6 and D6 locations are low impedance - the 
capacitive dividers (C7,8 and C4,5) reduce the impedance.
The end of a random wire is a high impedance and matches better at C6.  
If you were connecting the center conductor and ground the shield of a 
properly matched feedline close to the test point, you would likely find 
a better response at W6 than at C6.
That is why that testing technique is called "Cheap and Dirty" - it does 
have some eccentricities that the user needs to be aware of (like this 
one), but overall is a quick troubleshooting aid.

If you are getting about the same response at D6 and W6, then the 
bandpass filter is probably OK.

73,
Don W3FPR

Kevin Cozens wrote:
> Greetings.
>
> I have barely used my K2 going on about two years now. It seemed to work 
> well when I first got it off the person who had assembled it. I got 
> occasional comments about good audio when operating on SSB. I then 
> started applying the mods to bring it in line with the post 3000 serial 
> number units, applied the PLL stability mode, and replaced the crystals 
> with a more closely matching set, and completely re-aligned the radio.
>
> Since then, the radio seems to have become slightly deaf, and I also 
> have some issues with transmit audio. I've considered selling it to 
> someone who could fix it and starting over. Having acquired a good 
> digital storage oscilloscope some months back, I'm going to have another 
> shot at trying to fix the problems. I'll start by working on the receive 
> issues.
>
> I'm planning to get one of the Elecraft signal generator kits to help 
> with tracking down the receiver issues. Since I don't currently have 
> one, I'm starting with the cheap and dirty signal tracing notes from 
> Tom, N0SS. I pulled out the KSB2 and disconnected the KAT2 to eliminate 
> them as a source of problem. I have noticed one odd thing when using a 
> random length of wire and touching one end of it to the indicated test 
> points.
>
> Touching the wire to either side of C6 (RF Board page 3), the S meter 
> reading on the front panel goes up by about 2 LED's. What is odd is that 
> if I touch W6, or either end of D6 (the previous and next points in the 
> signal chain) I don't see this level of increase in signal level.
>
> This isn't making sense to me right now. I would think I would get the 
> same signal level increase at either W6, or D6, but not at neither point 
> compared to both sides of C6. Could this indicate bad, or wrong value 
> caps, for C5 and/or C7? Any other thoughts about this rather odd 
> behaviour? Seems to be pointing towards something to investigate further 
> but I hope I don't have to removed that bottom rear panel as its more of 
> a pain to remove.
>   
>
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[Elecraft] [K2] Question about cheap and dirty signal tracing

[Kevin Cozens]

Greetings.

I have barely used my K2 going on about two years now. It seemed to work 
well when I first got it off the person who had assembled it. I got 
occasional comments about good audio when operating on SSB. I then 
started applying the mods to bring it in line with the post 3000 serial 
number units, applied the PLL stability mode, and replaced the crystals 
with a more closely matching set, and completely re-aligned the radio.

Since then, the radio seems to have become slightly deaf, and I also 
have some issues with transmit audio. I've considered selling it to 
someone who could fix it and starting over. Having acquired a good 
digital storage oscilloscope some months back, I'm going to have another 
shot at trying to fix the problems. I'll start by working on the receive 
issues.

I'm planning to get one of the Elecraft signal generator kits to help 
with tracking down the receiver issues. Since I don't currently have 
one, I'm starting with the cheap and dirty signal tracing notes from 
Tom, N0SS. I pulled out the KSB2 and disconnected the KAT2 to eliminate 
them as a source of problem. I have noticed one odd thing when using a 
random length of wire and touching one end of it to the indicated test 
points.

Touching the wire to either side of C6 (RF Board page 3), the S meter 
reading on the front panel goes up by about 2 LED's. What is odd is that 
if I touch W6, or either end of D6 (the previous and next points in the 
signal chain) I don't see this level of increase in signal level.

This isn't making sense to me right now. I would think I would get the 
same signal level increase at either W6, or D6, but not at neither point 
compared to both sides of C6. Could this indicate bad, or wrong value 
caps, for C5 and/or C7? Any other thoughts about this rather odd 
behaviour? Seems to be pointing towards something to investigate further 
but I hope I don't have to removed that bottom rear panel as its more of 
a pain to remove.

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Gary Hvizdak]

> Tue Dec 22 02:10:48 EST David Dunn (VK3DBD) wrote ...
> can anyone give an ... idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit ...

David,

It sounds like your friend is more interested in having a K2 rather than
building one.  In that case I suggest that he enlist the assistance of a
builder-for-hire, least he rush and make a mistake.

Whether he builds it himself, gets one second-hand, or has one custom-
built for him -- I would urge that he obtain one assembled using the "Option
Ready" assembly method promoted by , as this will
dramatically simplify the subsequent installation of option internal
expansion modules (which he can also obtain pre-assembled from a builder-
for-hire).

73 & Happy Holidays,
Gary  KI4GGX
K2 #4067
unpcbs.com webmaster

P.S. See  for a short list of quality builders-
for-hire. 

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Rick Evans]

David,

  Forty hours spread over two weeks to build the basic K2 and two small
option boards would be a fair estimate.

   It was more fun to build than I expected.  The instruction manual is
fantastic, (nearly) all the parts fit perfectly, and the entire project is just
quite clever.  Build a section, test a section, laugh out loud when it works
perfectly. Repeat.

Then afterwards, when he meets a K3 owner he can tell them about the
good old days:

... Spoiled whipper-snappers ...
... Uphill, both ways ...
... In the snow ...
... wearing just a pair of shoes ...
... while being chased by dinosaurs ...

73,
Rick Evans, KG4FER
Orlando, FL

On Tue, Dec 22, 2009 at 2:10 AM, David Dunn  wrote:
> On behalf of a friend (in Australia) who is thinking of a K2,  can anyone
> give an approximate idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit
>
> Better still has anyone got a K2 to sell (In Australia)
>
> 73   David VK3DBD
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[Don Wilhelm]

David,

If he plans 32 to 40 hours for the basic K2, he will be in the 
ballpark.  Options also take time, but not nearly as long as the base K2.
It is not difficult, but there are many parts.  The instruction manual 
covers all the details, so if he can solder well and follow written 
instructions, he should have no difficulty.  The K2 goes together just 
like any other kit - one part at a time, but there are a lot of parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

David Dunn wrote:
> On behalf of a friend (in Australia) who is thinking of a K2,  can anyone
> give an approximate idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit
>
> Better still has anyone got a K2 to sell (In Australia)
>
>   
>
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 Question

[elelist984]

Dear oh dear, David, that really is like asking, :How long is a piece of 
string?"

You will find that the time taken varies enormously, from the 
experienced people who have built several K2s to those of us who struck 
problems, got disheartened, put everything away for a year or so, only 
to get a bright idea of where the problem may lie, take it out, find the 
problem and happily finish it off.

It all depends upon what time one has available.  A retired person could 
easily build a K2 in a couple of weeks or less, I believe.  I think 
someone on this list built one in a weekend.  However, IMHO it is not a 
speed contest.  There are no prizes for being the fastest builder.  My 
advice is, take your time and enjoy the process.

Make sure you have the right tools.  Take the time to identify all the 
packages and all the parts and take a careful inventory.  Let Elecraft 
know straight away if there are any parts problems.  Resistors are on a 
bandolier in the order in which they should be used, but the capacitors 
are a different story.  I am my pharmacist's third best customer, so I 
have many empty pill bottles with tight fitting lids.  Others may do 
things differently, but I found that doing a bin sort (i.e. putting all 
capacitors of a particular capacitance and voltage rating into one pill 
box, and marking the value and rating with a felt pen) really helped.

Follow the instructions to the letter.  Tick each component off as it is 
installed.

Do look at the two products on the site http://www.unpcbs.com/ as they 
can make life a lot easier.

As you are a VK3, feel free to call me - I am listed in the callbook - I 
have built two K2s and feel I have learned a thing or two along the way.

Buying a K2 is OK, but the number on the used market in VK would be 
fairly small.  Buying a pre-built one from overseas exposes you to 
possible workmanship problems and also deprives one of the challenge of 
assembling a truly great radio - and one which the owner will be able to 
maintain.

73
Kevin
VK3DAP / ZL2DAP

David Dunn wrote:
> On behalf of a friend (in Australia) who is thinking of a K2,  can anyone
> give an approximate idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit
>
> Better still has anyone got a K2 to sell (In Australia)
>
> 73   David VK3DBD
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>   
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[Elecraft] K2 Question

[David Dunn]

On behalf of a friend (in Australia) who is thinking of a K2,  can anyone
give an approximate idea of the time needed to build a K2 kit

Better still has anyone got a K2 to sell (In Australia)

73   David VK3DBD
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Re: [Elecraft] [K2] Question on K2 audio output

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

Take a look at my website www.w3fpr.com - K2 Fixed Audio Output article.
I used to have kits available, and then had only boards, and then Tom 
Hammond modified the board to fit between the Control Board and Front 
Panel, and offered boards to do that - check www.n0ss.net to see the 
documentation for that board - unfortunately, Tom has run out of boards 
and does not want to continue, but will provide the board images to 
anyone who would like them.

You could wire the amplifier on a piece of perfboard and it will work fine.

I guess there are about 200 K2s out there with this addition, but 
interest has tapered off - you are welcome to continue the effort should 
you want to order several boards - FAR circuits will make up a sheet of 
the boards for you (or anyone else) for an affordable price.

73,
Don W3FPR

Tom McCulloch wrote:
> I'll be getting back to PSK31 with my K2 and was wondering if there is a 
> place to pick up fixed audio output for input into my PC's sound card.  It's 
> been a while but I seem to recall that I used to pick it from from the 
> external speaker jack which, of course, isn't fixed.
>
> Tahnks in advance
>
> Tom, WB2QDG
> K2 #1103
>
>
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[Elecraft] [K2] Question on K2 audio output

[Tom McCulloch]

I'll be getting back to PSK31 with my K2 and was wondering if there is a 
place to pick up fixed audio output for input into my PC's sound card.  It's 
been a while but I seem to recall that I used to pick it from from the 
external speaker jack which, of course, isn't fixed.

Tahnks in advance

Tom, WB2QDG
K2 #1103


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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Julian, G4ILO]

Remi Khu wrote:
> 
> I stand to purchase a K2 with firmware revision 2.02 and I/O Controller 
> revision 1.02.  Is there a pointer to required or recommended upgrades 
> to bring this unit up to date?  Thanks!
> 
> 
http://www.elecraft.com/order_form_parts.htm#fw

Read the upgrade notes linked from that page to decide whether it's really
worth doing. Mine is still running on firmware that's possibly even older
than that.

-
Julian, G4ILO. K2 #392  K3 #222.
http://www.g4ilo.com/ G4ILO's Shack   http://www.ham-directory.com/ Ham
Directoryhttp://www.g4ilo.com/kcomm.html KComm for Elecraft K2 and K3 
-- 
View this message in context: 
http://n2.nabble.com/K2-question-tp1141966p1142070.html
Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.

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[Elecraft] K2 question

[Remi Khu]

I stand to purchase a K2 with firmware revision 2.02 and I/O Controller 
revision 1.02.  Is there a pointer to required or recommended upgrades 
to bring this unit up to date?  Thanks!


Remi, KD0FGD
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[Elecraft] K2 Question - First Power on test results

[AJSOENKE]

I am at the first power on test stage of K2 # 6281 and have anomalous  
readings.  Should be INFO 250 or 7100.0 c 
What I get is  ELECrAFT  followed a few seconds later  by  0 ? 50.0  c (or 
u,r,etc)
 
Turning VFO dial does not change frequencies as expected but changes to 1 5  
15.1   and other strangeness.
 
After that I can hit DISP and read normal voltages. Power display works  when 
power adjusted, keyer speed adjusts ok. RIT/XIT is adjustable but the  range 
is like 23253 +/-.  So, many things work correctly for a rig that's  only 
partially built, and other things are incoherent. I can access menus and  use 
edit. Most things are OK but no frequency display that makes sense.   Component 
value and placements checked and rechecked and all solder connections  
reflowed. 
 MCU chips 1.09 and 2.04 swapped with working K2 and replaced  with no 
indication of fault.
 
Due to all the playing around with the FP and Control Board I am suspicious  
that the eeprom may have been exposed to some random resetting that is 
confusing  the issues.
 
Does anyone have a 'reset to default'  procedure that might take us  back to 
the starting point?
 
Anyone else ever see this kind of behaviour?
 
I have half a dozen highschoolers who are afraid they have broke the pooch  
but I can find no visible signs of an error.  ESD practices were  scrupulously 
adhered to and swapping parts with a working K2 hasn't uncovered  anything, so 
far.
 
73,  Al WA6VNN 



**It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & 
Finance.  (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf000301)
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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question regarding Pin 24 U6 control board operation

[Don Wilhelm]

Will,

Yes, the voltage on U6 24 is a 'red herring'.  That is a serial data 
line, and while you might observe the +5 volts active signal at times 
with a 'scope, much of the time it is inactive and at zero volts.


You can check the operation the data into the DAC which controls the PLL 
reference oscillator most easily by observing the DAC output - set the 
K2 to CAL FCTR and observe the voltage at RF Board U5 pin 7 as you tap 
the BAND+ and BAND- buttons alternately.  You should see the voltage 
change between close to zero volts to about 4 volts.  If you do see a 
change, then you can conclude that the SDO signal is being properly 
received by the DAC (U5).


It would appear that your PLL reference oscillator is not oscillating  - 
you should see a signal at approximately the PLL crystal frequency of 
12096 mHz.  Check the voltages at Q19, check to be certain the leads of 
RFC14 are well stripped, be certain D18 is oriented correctly.  If that 
does not solve the problem, look at the schematic for RF Board sheet 1 
and find the PLL Reference Oscillator in the upper left corner. 
Identify all the components associated with that part of the circuit and 
check them for correct values and proper soldering.


73,
Don W3FPR

Will wrote:


Hi all,
This question is more to fulfill my curiosity, but maybe it has to 
do with the problem I'm experiencing with the PPL reference oscillator 
in the synthesiser section.


While trying to debug why I was getting a reading of 190.00 -/+ 2KHz 
in the TP3 PLL reference oscillator test point, I decided to do some 
voltage checks.  I discovered that pin 2 of U5 on the RF board wasn't 
getting the 5V I was expecting according to the voltage tables.  I 
traced this all the way back to the control board, U6 pin 24.  the 
voltage reading was 0V, so thinking this is a digital output, I 
hooked-up a logic probe and confirmed the voltage reading.  I conirmed 
this same reading at pin 5 (SD0) of U4 on the RF board.



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[Elecraft] K2 question regarding Pin 24 U6 control board operation

[Will]

Hi all,
	This question is more to fulfill my curiosity, but maybe it has to 
do with the problem I'm experiencing with the PPL reference oscillator in 
the synthesiser section.


	While trying to debug why I was getting a reading of 190.00 -/+ 
2KHz in the TP3 PLL reference oscillator test point, I decided to do some 
voltage checks.  I discovered that pin 2 of U5 on the RF board wasn't 
getting the 5V I was expecting according to the voltage tables.  I traced 
this all the way back to the control board, U6 pin 24.  the voltage 
reading was 0V, so thinking this is a digital output, I hooked-up a logic 
probe and confirmed the voltage reading.  I conirmed this same reading at 
pin 5 (SD0) of U4 on the RF board.


	Now, U5 on the RF board shows 4.06V on pin 7 so maybe this is OK 
and I'm just making myself worry over a red herring...but I thought I'd 
ask.


	On a lark, I took the boards apart and powered up the control 
board alone.  First time, pin 24 showed the correct voltage.  On second 
power-up, still outside the RF board, the pin showed 0Vmaybe normal 
behaviour?


	Anyways, I'm still looking through the RF board (redid RFC14 - one 
winding too many - and re-seated the thermister board) until I can find 
where my PLL ref problem lies.


Thanks,

Will

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Re: [Elecraft] k2 question

[Robert Tellefsen]

Frank
The K2 tuning experience is smooth, but a bit different.
The K1 is continuous tuning with an LC oscillator.
The K2 uses a sort of synthesizer, in that the tuning
goes about 5 kHz then there is a "tick" as the internal
works switches to the next 5 kHz range.  For all
practical purposes, it is continuous tuning.  An
advantage to the K2 tuning is that you can change
the tuning rate from the front panel.  Mine has three
different tuning rates which I just love.
73, Bob N6WG

- Original Message -
From: "Frank" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: 
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2007 5:33 AM
Subject: [Elecraft] k2 question


> K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and
do use it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it
smooth to use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
>Thank You
> Frank Caputo
> WA2AAW
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 question

[Christopher Kovacs]

Frank wrote:

K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and do use 
it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it smooth to 
use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
   Thank You 
Frank Caputo

WA2AAW
  
If you like the K1 dial/tuning, you'll love the K2.  I have had both; 
the K1 is good, but the K2 is wonderful.  Plus, you can change the dial 
rate :)


Chris  W0ANM
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Re: [Elecraft] k2 question

[David Wilburn]

Have used mine quite a few hours.  Mostly over the field day weekend, 
but also for general tuning around.  Used it for both SSB and CW.  I 
have not had any frustrations with tuning.  I have not used a K1, so 
cannot compare.  I tend to use the .1 tuning rate, and then back up if I 
heard something.  I'm have no complaints, and have been quite happy with 
the rig.  Just finished and installed the DSP over the weekend.


David Wilburn
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
K4DGW
K2 #5982


Frank wrote:

K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and do use 
it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it smooth to 
use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
   Thank You 
Frank Caputo

WA2AAW
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[Elecraft] k2 question

[Frank]

K2 users, I'm thinking about building a k2 for myself.I built the k1 and do use 
it.Is the VFO operation better than the k1? I guess, I mean ,is it smooth to 
use for hours of tuning the bands or is it similar to the k1?
   Thank You 
Frank Caputo
WA2AAW
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Don Wilhelm]

Ed,

There is no direct relationship, but the audio path does go through the
KDSP2 card, so there may be an unsoldered connection on that card which had
adequate contact to work at first, but has now wiggled loose.

You may want to remove the KDSP2 and put jumpers in to complete the audio
path - 2 bent component leads will do, stick the leads in the headers -
control board J1 pin 1 to J2 pin 1 and J1 pin 2 to J2 pin 2.  If you have
audio, blame the KDSP2 card, but if it is still silent, look elsewhere.

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
> >
> Just added KDSP2 to my K2 and everything was fine for 1 day.
> Now the speaker is dead.headphones work fine.  Any connection
> between the new addition and no audio.  Where should I look?   Thanks,  Ed
>

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Re: [Elecraft] K2 question

[Vic K2VCO]

ed bagwell wrote:

Just added KDSP2 to my K2 and everything was fine for 1 day. Now the
speaker is dead.headphones work fine.  Any connection between the
new addition and no audio.  Where should I look? 


Look at the connection for the speaker that is on the RF board next to 
the on-off switch.  You may have loosened it when you lifted the lid.

--
73,
Vic, K2VCO
Fresno CA
http://www.qsl.net/k2vco
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[Elecraft] K2 question

[ed bagwell]

Just added KDSP2 to my K2 and everything was fine for 1 day. 
Now the speaker is dead.headphones work fine.  Any connection between the 
new addition and no audio.  Where should I look?   Thanks,  Ed
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RE: [Elecraft] K2 question

[W3FPR - Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

Yes, you should have full receiver capability (albiet only on 40 meters) at
Test and Alignment II stage.

Check your components and soldering carefully (at least 3 times) - and don't
forget to check for jumpers W1 and W6.
Then do some 'quick and dirty' troubleshooting - try connecting an antenna
to W6 - if you find signals there, try it at W1 - if you find signals at W6
but not W1, look at the T/R switch area for the problem.  If you find
signals at both W1 and W6 but not at the antenna jack, the problem is in the
Low Pass Filter area.

If you find no results from the tests above, then turn to page 9 of Appendix
E in your manual, build up the test oscillator shown there if you have no
adequate signal generator and proceed with the steps beginning on page 10
through page 12 (but not the transmitter parts).

73,
Don W3FPR

> -Original Message-
>
> Hello all. I am finished with assembly, part II and am doing the
> testing and
> alignment. So far everything checks out ok on voltages, linearization,
> menus, ect. But thought that once I had done the amplifier alignment and
> heard the internal signal at 7000 kHz ok, that I would be able to hear at
> least some stations with a working antenna connected... I tried
> the 40 meter
> band pass filter alignment, but turnig L1 and L2 doesn't seem to change
> anything. I am hearing some hiss (good kind), so it seems I am
> getting some
> kind of audio. AF gain works...Am I mistaken about being able to have
> full receive capabilities at this point?
>
>
>
> Mike Sexsmith
>
>


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[Elecraft] K2 question

[Mike Sexsmith]

Hello all. I am finished with assembly, part II and am doing the testing and 
alignment. So far everything checks out ok on voltages, linearization, 
menus, ect. But thought that once I had done the amplifier alignment and 
heard the internal signal at 7000 kHz ok, that I would be able to hear at 
least some stations with a working antenna connected... I tried the 40 meter 
band pass filter alignment, but turnig L1 and L2 doesn't seem to change 
anything. I am hearing some hiss (good kind), so it seems I am getting some 
kind of audio. AF gain works...Am I mistaken about being able to have 
full receive capabilities at this point?




Mike Sexsmith


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[Elecraft] K2 Question

[Aaron]

  
Hello everyone!
 
After buying and frying (within hours of having the base unit assembled)
my first Elecraft KX1. If any of you are interested in this story please
let me know.  I will share my little accident.   I have decided to look
into buying a K2 kit.  I do have one question before I make the leap of
selling off my Kenwood TS-2000 to fund this little adventure.
 
Is the K2 modifiable or already opened up to transmit and receive MARS
frequencies?  As a member of the Navy Marine Corp MARS this is a must
for me.  I did a search of old posts and found the question asked but
not answered.
 
Thanks for the replies
 
Aaron 
KC7RSO
KX1 1037 Still in the shop
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