[Elecraft] KAT100 ATU- Plays well with others

[Greg Herman]

Dear Santa
What if Elecraft designed and built a KAT 100 ATU
1. 3 antenna ports
2. Same width as the FT891 as a marketing strategy.
3. Take the design of the KXAT- 100 ATU And I had some brains
4. Interface cables to work with Yaesu and Icom. transceivers, plays well
with others.

I think Elecraft would sell quite a bit of them  kind of like a baby
KAT500. We all know Elecraft is the king of ATU’s


Have a Great day!
Greg
KC9NRO
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[Elecraft] Looking for Elecraft KAT100 for K2/100

[Vincent Shu]

Hi all,

I am looking for an Elecraft KAT100 for my K2/100. Please feel free to
contact me if you have and are willing to sell.

73
BH5HTF
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 stopped working

[Don Wilhelm]

Hans,

First of all, check to see if you have power to the KAT100 - you should 
have 12 volts on both ends of RFC2.
If that is correct, check to be certain there is +5 volts at pin 2 of 
U2, U3 and U4.
If all is well so far, suspect that either the MCU (U1) or U2, U3 and U4 
have failed.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/4/2022 4:14 AM, Hans Bonnesen via Elecraft wrote:

After two years of flawless function my combo-installation ( k2 + KAT100) 
stopped working.
The friendly chatter of relays when pressing the tune button went silent, and 
the line of small lamps on the front of the KAT100 went up all the way in RED.
while the display showed ( excessive power)Iswithed off the set entirely to 
prevent a burn out of the PA-transistors.
Furtheer investigation showed that these were unharmed, but apparently the 
relays of the automatic tuner do not work anymore.
What went wrong here, and how to remedy?




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[Elecraft] KAT100 stopped working

[Hans Bonnesen via Elecraft]

After two years of flawless function my combo-installation ( k2 + KAT100) 
stopped working.
The friendly chatter of relays when pressing the tune button went silent, and 
the line of small lamps on the front of the KAT100 went up all the way in RED.
while the display showed ( excessive power)Iswithed off the set entirely to 
prevent a burn out of the PA-transistors.
Furtheer investigation showed that these were unharmed, but apparently the 
relays of the automatic tuner do not work anymore.
What went wrong here, and how to remedy?

Kindest greetings

OZ5RB
Hans BONNESEN
25 Birkebakken
3460 Birkerød
Danmark
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[Elecraft] KAT100 Finished but not working

[Douglas Person]

I've had a KAT100 sitting under my workbench for several years. I sorta 
forgot about it. A couple of days ago I recognized the box, pulled it 
out and assembled it. I've built dozens of K-Kits. This is the third 
KAT100 I've built. I'm very careful. But... This one doesn't want to work.


There is no indication that it is active - LEDs don't light. I carefully 
examine every connection under a magnifying glass. Transistors, diodes 
and ICs are all correct. Every connection looks perfect. I traced power 
to every IC - everything is correct. I even carefully built a new 
control cable - just to be sure.


Can anyone suggest what further steps I can take to debug this tuner? 
Could there be something wrong with the K2? Any help appreciated.



Thanks -- Doug -- K0DXV

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 memory question

[Nr4c]

 Oooops


I misread your email.  You are asking about the KAT100 in the radio.  I read as 
KAT500.  

Download the KAT500 manual and I believe segments are the same for both ATUs. 

And “learning” process is the same. 




Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Aug 21, 2020, at 2:41 PM, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
> 
> I read Recision D on the website and didn’t see anything in that one either. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM 
> 
>> On Aug 21, 2020, at 11:48 AM, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
>> 
>> Guess I missed that!  Checking now. 
>> 
>> Hmm. Bill, I just paged thru the entire manual and there is no mention of 
>> what you’re saying. 
>> 
>> Is it possible you have a newer manual?  This one is Revision C, March 12, 
>> 2003. 
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM 
>> 
 On Aug 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Read the manual. There is a list of the frequency segments that can be 
>>> stored in the memory. It’s near the back of the manual.  Most bands are 
>>> 20KHz segments, so many for each band. 
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ...nr4c. bill
>>> 
>>> 
> On Aug 21, 2020, at 8:47 AM, NJMike  wrote:
 
 The KAT100 manual says that the tuner’s settings are stored in EEPROM. 
 
 My question is - how many memories are stored?  Is it just one for each
 band?
 
 Thanks,
 Mike NJ2OM 
 
 
 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 memory question

[Mike Kopacki]

I read Recision D on the website and didn’t see anything in that one either. 

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM 

> On Aug 21, 2020, at 11:48 AM, Mike Kopacki  wrote:
> 
> Guess I missed that!  Checking now. 
> 
> Hmm. Bill, I just paged thru the entire manual and there is no mention of 
> what you’re saying. 
> 
> Is it possible you have a newer manual?  This one is Revision C, March 12, 
> 2003. 
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM 
> 
>> On Aug 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
>> 
>> Read the manual. There is a list of the frequency segments that can be 
>> stored in the memory. It’s near the back of the manual.  Most bands are 
>> 20KHz segments, so many for each band. 
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ...nr4c. bill
>> 
>> 
 On Aug 21, 2020, at 8:47 AM, NJMike  wrote:
>>> 
>>> The KAT100 manual says that the tuner’s settings are stored in EEPROM. 
>>> 
>>> My question is - how many memories are stored?  Is it just one for each
>>> band?
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Mike NJ2OM 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
>>> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
>>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 memory question

[Mike Kopacki]

Guess I missed that!  Checking now. 

Hmm. Bill, I just paged thru the entire manual and there is no mention of what 
you’re saying. 

Is it possible you have a newer manual?  This one is Revision C, March 12, 
2003. 

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM 

> On Aug 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Nr4c  wrote:
> 
> Read the manual. There is a list of the frequency segments that can be 
> stored in the memory. It’s near the back of the manual.  Most bands are 20KHz 
> segments, so many for each band. 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
> 
> 
>> On Aug 21, 2020, at 8:47 AM, NJMike  wrote:
>> 
>> The KAT100 manual says that the tuner’s settings are stored in EEPROM. 
>> 
>> My question is - how many memories are stored?  Is it just one for each
>> band?
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Mike NJ2OM 
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> --
>> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 memory question

[Nr4c]

Read the manual. There is a list of the frequency segments that can be stored 
in the memory. It’s near the back of the manual.  Most bands are 20KHz 
segments, so many for each band. 

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


> On Aug 21, 2020, at 8:47 AM, NJMike  wrote:
> 
> The KAT100 manual says that the tuner’s settings are stored in EEPROM. 
> 
> My question is - how many memories are stored?  Is it just one for each
> band?
> 
> Thanks,
> Mike NJ2OM 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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[Elecraft] KAT100 memory question

[NJMike]

The KAT100 manual says that the tuner’s settings are stored in EEPROM. 

My question is - how many memories are stored?  Is it just one for each
band?

Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM 



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[Elecraft] KAT100 No Longer Available, was KPA100 No Longer Available

[Neil Zampella]

Sorry for the confusion ... wasn't thinking when I typed out the subject
line.  Thinking KAT100 typed KPA100, then sent it  :(

Neil, KN3ILZ

On 6/4/2020 3:32 AM, Neil Zampella wrote:

Hi all,

I saw that the K2 100w tuner accessory, the KAT100  is no longer
available and discontinued.   I'm guessing its due to the permanent
unavailability of a through part.    I'm wondering if Wayne or Eric
could comment on this, and if there's any suitable replacement for that
tuner?

Neil, KN3ILZ


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 discontinued, will the K2 kit last much longer?

[Paul Gacek via Elecraft]

So much can happen in 3 years especially when talking about retirement ages and 
I’d be inclined to buy the K2 now and build it now if that is a viable option 
and it really is high on the bucket list.

Paul
W6PNG/M0SNA 
www.nomadic.blog


> On May 28, 2020, at 3:23 PM, Fred Jensen  wrote:
> 
> You might want to have your wife purchase the K2 kit now and hide it from 
> you as a retirement present in 3 years.  The K2 will likely remain available 
> for as long as the parts supply chain is intact.  No way of knowing when that 
> may end but the K2 is around 20 years old.
> 
> 73,
> Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
> Sparks NV DM09dn
> Washoe County
> 
>> On 5/28/2020 2:24 PM, carboy...@juno.com wrote:
>> After I retire in three years, I was planning on ordering and building
>> the K2 and the KAT100.
>> 
>> I noticed the KAT100 has been discontinued.  Hopefully the K2 will still
>> be around for a while.
>> 
>> Bob Richards, AA4AI
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 discontinued, will the K2 kit last much longer?

[Fred Jensen]

You might want to have your wife purchase the K2 kit now and hide it 
from you as a retirement present in 3 years.  The K2 will likely remain 
available for as long as the parts supply chain is intact.  No way of 
knowing when that may end but the K2 is around 20 years old.


73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DGW
Sparks NV DM09dn
Washoe County

On 5/28/2020 2:24 PM, carboy...@juno.com wrote:

After I retire in three years, I was planning on ordering and building
the K2 and the KAT100.

I noticed the KAT100 has been discontinued.  Hopefully the K2 will still
be around for a while.

Bob Richards, AA4AI



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[Elecraft] KAT100 discontinued, will the K2 kit last much longer?

[carboyhat]

After I retire in three years, I was planning on ordering and building
the K2 and the KAT100.  

I noticed the KAT100 has been discontinued.  Hopefully the K2 will still
be around for a while.  

Bob Richards, AA4AI


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[Elecraft] KAT100

[Christophe GIBERT]

Hi all, as the KAT100 is retired, i’m looking for a kit of a KAT100-1 or 
KAT100-2, or also a buildt one in good condition. (Delivery in France)

Thanks.

— 
Chris
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jonathan,

That is a great discovery. Yes, if U5 was getting hot it would be 
dragging down the 5 volt supply and causing U1 to not function.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 12:18 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Don,

Z1 is resonating away, but in the course of verifying that, I noticed
that the U5 op-amp was getting hot to the touch.  I replaced it, and
now all is working normally.  Perhaps it was loading down the 5V
supply excessively.

I'm guessing that U5 made the ultimate sacrifice in the same incident
that zapped D1 and D2 some years ago.  Apparently this has happened
before, because I see that I had installed an 8-pin DIP socket for it
:)

Thanks again for your help!

73
Jonathan K1RFD




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD]

Don,

Z1 is resonating away, but in the course of verifying that, I noticed
that the U5 op-amp was getting hot to the touch.  I replaced it, and
now all is working normally.  Perhaps it was loading down the 5V
supply excessively.

I'm guessing that U5 made the ultimate sacrifice in the same incident
that zapped D1 and D2 some years ago.  Apparently this has happened
before, because I see that I had installed an 8-pin DIP socket for it
:)

Thanks again for your help!

73
Jonathan K1RFD

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 11:19 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
> Jonathan,
>
> Yes, replacing KAT100 U1 would be the prudent first step.  But if you
> can, first determine if the resonator Z1 is providing clock pulses to U1
> pins 13 and 14.  Without those clock pulses, U1 will not be functional.
>
> If you have a local ham who also has a KAT100, see if you can swap U1
> from his KAT100 to see if U1 is the problem in yours.
>
> If you do not have a local who is willing to swap, then your best bet is
> to order both the firmware and the resonator from Elecraft.
>
> OTOH, if you have a 4 MHz resonator on hand, try replacing Z1 first to
> see if it comes back to life.  The resonator is inexpensive, but the
> firmware IC is costly.
>
> When the firmware is working, it will be recognized by the K2,
> regardless of any other problems that may be present with the KAT100
> operation.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/4/2020 10:49 AM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:
> > Thanks Don.
> >
> > I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
> > after re-seating it a couple of times.
> >
> > Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
> > the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
> > manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. It is "high" at all other
> > times. I checked this all the way to pin 40 of U1.
> >
> > Should I conclude that the next step would be to replace U1?
> >
> >
>
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jonathan,

Yes, replacing KAT100 U1 would be the prudent first step.  But if you 
can, first determine if the resonator Z1 is providing clock pulses to U1 
pins 13 and 14.  Without those clock pulses, U1 will not be functional.


If you have a local ham who also has a KAT100, see if you can swap U1 
from his KAT100 to see if U1 is the problem in yours.


If you do not have a local who is willing to swap, then your best bet is 
to order both the firmware and the resonator from Elecraft.


OTOH, if you have a 4 MHz resonator on hand, try replacing Z1 first to 
see if it comes back to life.  The resonator is inexpensive, but the 
firmware IC is costly.


When the firmware is working, it will be recognized by the K2, 
regardless of any other problems that may be present with the KAT100 
operation.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/4/2020 10:49 AM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

Thanks Don.

I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
after re-seating it a couple of times.

Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. It is "high" at all other
times. I checked this all the way to pin 40 of U1.

Should I conclude that the next step would be to replace U1?




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD]

Thanks Don.

I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
after re-seating it a couple of times.

Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. It is "high" at all other
times. I checked this all the way to pin 40 of U1.

Should I conclude that the next step would be to replace U1?

On Sat, Jan 4, 2020 at 9:54 AM Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>
> Johnathan,
>
> Since the KAT100 is not recognized in the K2 menu, you either have a
> problem with the KAT100 firmware, but do check the cable for continuity
> of the AUXBUS signal that is used to communicate among the various
> pieces of firmware ICs throughout the K2 system.
>
> Since the KAT100 has not been in service for a while, it may be that
> there is oxidation on the KAT100 firmware IC pins.  Removing and
> reinserting the firmware IC may bring it back to life by wiping away any
> oxidation on the pins.
>
> As for the LEDs, that is also controlled by the firmware IC, so fix the
> firmware problem first, and then you can find any problems that remain.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 1/3/2020 11:13 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:
> > I am testing my KAT100, which had been sitting idle for a number of
> > years.  It is connected to the K2/100 via the DB9 cable as described
> > in the KAT100 manual.  The two are interconnected with a coax cable
> > and Ant1 is connected to a dummy load.
> >
> > 1. Apply power to KAT100.
> > 2. Turn on K2/100.
> > 3. Almost immediately, all LEDs on the SWR bar graph illuminate, the
> > S-meter bar graph on the K2 goes full scale, and both remain in this
> > state.  The receiver is silent. (There is no indication of any output
> > power, as if it were transmitting.)
> >
> > Pressing the ANT1-2 button on the K2 produces the "not inst" message.
> > Turning off the K2 power, all LEDs on the KAT100 remain illuminated.
> > With KAT100 powered off, K2 functions normally.
> >
> > I have verified the wiring of the DB-9 cable.  What's the next best
> > thing to check?
> >
> > Thanks
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Johnathan,

Since the KAT100 is not recognized in the K2 menu, you either have a 
problem with the KAT100 firmware, but do check the cable for continuity 
of the AUXBUS signal that is used to communicate among the various 
pieces of firmware ICs throughout the K2 system.


Since the KAT100 has not been in service for a while, it may be that 
there is oxidation on the KAT100 firmware IC pins.  Removing and 
reinserting the firmware IC may bring it back to life by wiping away any 
oxidation on the pins.


As for the LEDs, that is also controlled by the firmware IC, so fix the 
firmware problem first, and then you can find any problems that remain.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/3/2020 11:13 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:

I am testing my KAT100, which had been sitting idle for a number of
years.  It is connected to the K2/100 via the DB9 cable as described
in the KAT100 manual.  The two are interconnected with a coax cable
and Ant1 is connected to a dummy load.

1. Apply power to KAT100.
2. Turn on K2/100.
3. Almost immediately, all LEDs on the SWR bar graph illuminate, the
S-meter bar graph on the K2 goes full scale, and both remain in this
state.  The receiver is silent. (There is no indication of any output
power, as if it were transmitting.)

Pressing the ANT1-2 button on the K2 produces the "not inst" message.
Turning off the K2 power, all LEDs on the KAT100 remain illuminated.
With KAT100 powered off, K2 functions normally.

I have verified the wiring of the DB-9 cable.  What's the next best
thing to check?

Thanks
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[Elecraft] KAT100 General Failure

[Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD]

I am testing my KAT100, which had been sitting idle for a number of
years.  It is connected to the K2/100 via the DB9 cable as described
in the KAT100 manual.  The two are interconnected with a coax cable
and Ant1 is connected to a dummy load.

1. Apply power to KAT100.
2. Turn on K2/100.
3. Almost immediately, all LEDs on the SWR bar graph illuminate, the
S-meter bar graph on the K2 goes full scale, and both remain in this
state.  The receiver is silent. (There is no indication of any output
power, as if it were transmitting.)

Pressing the ANT1-2 button on the K2 produces the "not inst" message.
Turning off the K2 power, all LEDs on the KAT100 remain illuminated.
With KAT100 powered off, K2 functions normally.

I have verified the wiring of the DB-9 cable.  What's the next best
thing to check?

Thanks
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuner

[Yoshida Akira]

Don

Thanks

On 2019/05/26 21:25, Don Wilhelm wrote:
The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on 
and function.


So the answer is that it will only function with the K2.

Yoou might consider the KAT500.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote:

Hi all

Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ?
Thanks in advance




--
73 de aki
JA1NLX
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuner

[Don Wilhelm]

The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on and 
function.


So the answer is that it will only function with the K2.

Yoou might consider the KAT500.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote:

Hi all

Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ?
Thanks in advance


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[Elecraft] KAT100 Tuner

[Yoshida Akira]

Hi all

Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ?
Thanks in advance

--
73 de aki
JA1NLX
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[Elecraft] KAT100 Pre-wound Toroids for sale

[Doug Shields]

Hello everyone,

  I have a set of pre-wound toroids for the KAT100 autotuner for sale.
I received these with a tuner that I built but I always wind my own toroids.
All are as received from Mychael Morohovich.  Mychael gets $37.50 plus $8
for shipping.  I will ship my set to any US destination for $27.50.  I can
accept payments through Paypal, cash, check or money order.  

 I am cleaning out spares and other stuff I have collected to raise
funds to update my K3 to the latest specs.

 

Doug  W4DAS



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

With that evidence, I would arbitrarily replace Z1.  Those 4MHz 
resonators are inexpensive.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 9/5/2018 2:42 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

OK, a final follow-up on this.

Since the 12CTRL signal resulted in 5V power at the regulator immediately, I 
racked by brain trying to figure out why The KAT100 would fail to light the 
LEDs for seconds, sometimes tens of seconds.

I decided the problem might have to do with the U1 clock. I put a scope probe 
on pins 13 and 14 of U1. While the KAT100 fails, these pins would float up to 
about 1 volt. When it worked, these pins would be at 0 volts, because the chip 
is sleeping! (the oscillator doesn’t run while the chip sleeps, to save battery 
power) So, it looked very much like the oscillator wasn’t starting reliably at 
power-on.

I hit the Z1 resonator with a heat gun, with no immediate effect. Later I 
nudged Z1 with a screwdriver, and the KAT100 suddenly came to life. Not sure if 
I had a bad device, or just a bad solder connection, I re-flowed the solder 
connections to Z1 and to pins 12-14 of U1, where they connect.

This seemed to work. I let everything cool down overnight, and checked it again 
in the morning. Oddly, the K2 was giving Info 080 and the KAT100 was failing 
again! I didn’t have time to diagnose.

Today, however, the K2 powered right up, and the KAT100 snapped to attention, 
both working flawlessly.

At the moment, I’m going to declare the mystery as being solved, and ignore the 
transient Info 080 issue. If it crops up again, I think I will replace Z1 on 
the KAT100.




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

OK, a final follow-up on this.

Since the 12CTRL signal resulted in 5V power at the regulator immediately, I 
racked by brain trying to figure out why The KAT100 would fail to light the 
LEDs for seconds, sometimes tens of seconds.

I decided the problem might have to do with the U1 clock. I put a scope probe 
on pins 13 and 14 of U1. While the KAT100 fails, these pins would float up to 
about 1 volt. When it worked, these pins would be at 0 volts, because the chip 
is sleeping! (the oscillator doesn’t run while the chip sleeps, to save battery 
power) So, it looked very much like the oscillator wasn’t starting reliably at 
power-on.

I hit the Z1 resonator with a heat gun, with no immediate effect. Later I 
nudged Z1 with a screwdriver, and the KAT100 suddenly came to life. Not sure if 
I had a bad device, or just a bad solder connection, I re-flowed the solder 
connections to Z1 and to pins 12-14 of U1, where they connect.

This seemed to work. I let everything cool down overnight, and checked it again 
in the morning. Oddly, the K2 was giving Info 080 and the KAT100 was failing 
again! I didn’t have time to diagnose.

Today, however, the K2 powered right up, and the KAT100 snapped to attention, 
both working flawlessly.

At the moment, I’m going to declare the mystery as being solved, and ignore the 
transient Info 080 issue. If it crops up again, I think I will replace Z1 on 
the KAT100. 

> On Aug 21, 2018, at 4:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> The AUXBUS is NOT at fault.
> The parts to concentrate on are shown in the lower left corner of sheet 2 of 
> the KAT100 manual.  Something there is not working reliably.  My first guess 
> would be Q2, but it could be something else associated.
> 
> That entire powering circuit is controlled only by the 12CTRL signal from the 
> K2.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/19/2018 9:32 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>> OK. I could use a little more help with this issue.
>> 
>> Let’s re-cap where we are.
>> 
>> Issue:
>> 
>> KAT100 doesn’t always turn on right away. When it does this, it may or may 
>> not switch low/high power LEDs when the power control is rotated. Pressing 
>> Ant 1/2 or Tune, the K2 will indicate “not inst”. Sometimes it will power up 
>> just fine.
>> 
>> Observations:
>> 
>> - If powered on incorrectly, the KAT100 never “recovers” — if the K2 doesn’t 
>> see the KAT100 at power up, it never discovers it.
>> 
>> - Generally fails when unit is cold / not used in a while, will eventually 
>> work if turned and left on for several hours, then switched off and back on.
>> 
>> - KAT100 is receiving power before the K2 is switched on. When the K2 is 
>> switched on the 12CTRL line on J3 pin 8 comes up immediately, and the 5V 
>> output from U8 does as well. So, power is immediately available when the K2 
>> is switched on
>> 
>> - When the KAT100 works, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs light 
>> immediately on power-on.
>> 
>> - When the KAT100 fails, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs stay dark for 
>> a second or so, sometimes a few seconds
>> 
>> - AUXBUS transitions are coming in on J3 pin 6 and make it all the way to U1 
>> Pin 40.
>> 
>> - I have two different interconnect cables. One is a three-way cable built 
>> exactly to the KAT100 specs, complete with jackscrews. The other is a simple 
>> two-way cable that connects Pin 1 and Pin 6-9 straight through with no 
>> jackscrews. Failure occurs with either cable.
>> 
>> - I have reseated the U1 chip in its socket with no change in behavior.
>> 
>> My current working theory is that there’s something in the KAT100 that 
>> prevents the U1 chip from resetting quickly. If it comes up immediately, the 
>> LEDs light and the K2 catches the unit during initialization. If its sleepy 
>> and doesn’t come up right away, it misses the opportunity to initialize and 
>> the K2 doesn’t know it is there. I think the antenna tuner and the low/high 
>> power indication are done in two separate initialization steps, because 
>> sometimes the KAT100 will respond to turning the power knob, and sometimes 
>> it won’t when the Ant 1/2 / Tune always responds with “not inst”.
>> 
>> Nothing else in the K2 apparently suffers from any AUXBUS failures, all the 
>> other units - SSB, NB, DSP, KPA100 always come up right away. This makes me 
>> think the issue isn’t with the K2, but perhaps with the KAT100 alone.
>> 
>> Anyone have suggestions? I’d really like to make my K2/100 with KAT100 a 
>> reliable rig again. I don’t want to have to power it up a day before I want 
>> to use it.
>> 
> 

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

I’ve confirmed that 5V power on the output of U8 comes up IMMEDIATELY when the 
K2 is switched on. Q2 seems to be doing it’s job. However, the KAT100 will sit 
there without any LEDs for a while, sometimes seconds.

I’m beginning to wonder if Z1 is not oscillating right away. I need to check 
that. If there’s no clock signal, the chip won’t initialize, and miss the 
AUXBUS startup window.

I really can’t think of many other things that could cause this behavior.


> On Aug 21, 2018, at 4:23 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> The AUXBUS is NOT at fault.
> The parts to concentrate on are shown in the lower left corner of sheet 2 of 
> the KAT100 manual.  Something there is not working reliably.  My first guess 
> would be Q2, but it could be something else associated.
> 
> That entire powering circuit is controlled only by the 12CTRL signal from the 
> K2.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/19/2018 9:32 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>> OK. I could use a little more help with this issue.
>> 
>> Let’s re-cap where we are.
>> 
>> Issue:
>> 
>> KAT100 doesn’t always turn on right away. When it does this, it may or may 
>> not switch low/high power LEDs when the power control is rotated. Pressing 
>> Ant 1/2 or Tune, the K2 will indicate “not inst”. Sometimes it will power up 
>> just fine.
>> 
>> Observations:
>> 
>> - If powered on incorrectly, the KAT100 never “recovers” — if the K2 doesn’t 
>> see the KAT100 at power up, it never discovers it.
>> 
>> - Generally fails when unit is cold / not used in a while, will eventually 
>> work if turned and left on for several hours, then switched off and back on.
>> 
>> - KAT100 is receiving power before the K2 is switched on. When the K2 is 
>> switched on the 12CTRL line on J3 pin 8 comes up immediately, and the 5V 
>> output from U8 does as well. So, power is immediately available when the K2 
>> is switched on
>> 
>> - When the KAT100 works, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs light 
>> immediately on power-on.
>> 
>> - When the KAT100 fails, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs stay dark for 
>> a second or so, sometimes a few seconds
>> 
>> - AUXBUS transitions are coming in on J3 pin 6 and make it all the way to U1 
>> Pin 40.
>> 
>> - I have two different interconnect cables. One is a three-way cable built 
>> exactly to the KAT100 specs, complete with jackscrews. The other is a simple 
>> two-way cable that connects Pin 1 and Pin 6-9 straight through with no 
>> jackscrews. Failure occurs with either cable.
>> 
>> - I have reseated the U1 chip in its socket with no change in behavior.
>> 
>> My current working theory is that there’s something in the KAT100 that 
>> prevents the U1 chip from resetting quickly. If it comes up immediately, the 
>> LEDs light and the K2 catches the unit during initialization. If its sleepy 
>> and doesn’t come up right away, it misses the opportunity to initialize and 
>> the K2 doesn’t know it is there. I think the antenna tuner and the low/high 
>> power indication are done in two separate initialization steps, because 
>> sometimes the KAT100 will respond to turning the power knob, and sometimes 
>> it won’t when the Ant 1/2 / Tune always responds with “not inst”.
>> 
>> Nothing else in the K2 apparently suffers from any AUXBUS failures, all the 
>> other units - SSB, NB, DSP, KPA100 always come up right away. This makes me 
>> think the issue isn’t with the K2, but perhaps with the KAT100 alone.
>> 
>> Anyone have suggestions? I’d really like to make my K2/100 with KAT100 a 
>> reliable rig again. I don’t want to have to power it up a day before I want 
>> to use it.
>> 
> 

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

The AUXBUS is NOT at fault.
The parts to concentrate on are shown in the lower left corner of sheet 
2 of the KAT100 manual.  Something there is not working reliably.  My 
first guess would be Q2, but it could be something else associated.


That entire powering circuit is controlled only by the 12CTRL signal 
from the K2.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/19/2018 9:32 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

OK. I could use a little more help with this issue.

Let’s re-cap where we are.

Issue:

KAT100 doesn’t always turn on right away. When it does this, it may or may not 
switch low/high power LEDs when the power control is rotated. Pressing Ant 1/2 
or Tune, the K2 will indicate “not inst”. Sometimes it will power up just fine.

Observations:

- If powered on incorrectly, the KAT100 never “recovers” — if the K2 doesn’t 
see the KAT100 at power up, it never discovers it.

- Generally fails when unit is cold / not used in a while, will eventually work 
if turned and left on for several hours, then switched off and back on.

- KAT100 is receiving power before the K2 is switched on. When the K2 is 
switched on the 12CTRL line on J3 pin 8 comes up immediately, and the 5V output 
from U8 does as well. So, power is immediately available when the K2 is 
switched on

- When the KAT100 works, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs light 
immediately on power-on.

- When the KAT100 fails, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs stay dark for a 
second or so, sometimes a few seconds

- AUXBUS transitions are coming in on J3 pin 6 and make it all the way to U1 
Pin 40.

- I have two different interconnect cables. One is a three-way cable built 
exactly to the KAT100 specs, complete with jackscrews. The other is a simple 
two-way cable that connects Pin 1 and Pin 6-9 straight through with no 
jackscrews. Failure occurs with either cable.

- I have reseated the U1 chip in its socket with no change in behavior.

My current working theory is that there’s something in the KAT100 that prevents 
the U1 chip from resetting quickly. If it comes up immediately, the LEDs light 
and the K2 catches the unit during initialization. If its sleepy and doesn’t 
come up right away, it misses the opportunity to initialize and the K2 doesn’t 
know it is there. I think the antenna tuner and the low/high power indication 
are done in two separate initialization steps, because sometimes the KAT100 
will respond to turning the power knob, and sometimes it won’t when the Ant 1/2 
/ Tune always responds with “not inst”.

Nothing else in the K2 apparently suffers from any AUXBUS failures, all the 
other units - SSB, NB, DSP, KPA100 always come up right away. This makes me 
think the issue isn’t with the K2, but perhaps with the KAT100 alone.

Anyone have suggestions? I’d really like to make my K2/100 with KAT100 a 
reliable rig again. I don’t want to have to power it up a day before I want to 
use it.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

OK. I could use a little more help with this issue.

Let’s re-cap where we are.

Issue:

KAT100 doesn’t always turn on right away. When it does this, it may or may not 
switch low/high power LEDs when the power control is rotated. Pressing Ant 1/2 
or Tune, the K2 will indicate “not inst”. Sometimes it will power up just fine.

Observations:

- If powered on incorrectly, the KAT100 never “recovers” — if the K2 doesn’t 
see the KAT100 at power up, it never discovers it. 

- Generally fails when unit is cold / not used in a while, will eventually work 
if turned and left on for several hours, then switched off and back on.

- KAT100 is receiving power before the K2 is switched on. When the K2 is 
switched on the 12CTRL line on J3 pin 8 comes up immediately, and the 5V output 
from U8 does as well. So, power is immediately available when the K2 is 
switched on

- When the KAT100 works, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs light 
immediately on power-on.

- When the KAT100 fails, the ANT 1/2 and Low / High Power LEDs stay dark for a 
second or so, sometimes a few seconds

- AUXBUS transitions are coming in on J3 pin 6 and make it all the way to U1 
Pin 40. 

- I have two different interconnect cables. One is a three-way cable built 
exactly to the KAT100 specs, complete with jackscrews. The other is a simple 
two-way cable that connects Pin 1 and Pin 6-9 straight through with no 
jackscrews. Failure occurs with either cable.

- I have reseated the U1 chip in its socket with no change in behavior.

My current working theory is that there’s something in the KAT100 that prevents 
the U1 chip from resetting quickly. If it comes up immediately, the LEDs light 
and the K2 catches the unit during initialization. If its sleepy and doesn’t 
come up right away, it misses the opportunity to initialize and the K2 doesn’t 
know it is there. I think the antenna tuner and the low/high power indication 
are done in two separate initialization steps, because sometimes the KAT100 
will respond to turning the power knob, and sometimes it won’t when the Ant 1/2 
/ Tune always responds with “not inst”. 

Nothing else in the K2 apparently suffers from any AUXBUS failures, all the 
other units - SSB, NB, DSP, KPA100 always come up right away. This makes me 
think the issue isn’t with the K2, but perhaps with the KAT100 alone.

Anyone have suggestions? I’d really like to make my K2/100 with KAT100 a 
reliable rig again. I don’t want to have to power it up a day before I want to 
use it.

> On Aug 7, 2018, at 1:57 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> Sadly, I have no old PIC chips for the KAT100 in my inventory. It came out of 
> the box with the 1.04 firmware (which isn’t the latest, but I don’t have the 
> K60XV, either.)
> 
> I do have a second DB9 cable I can try, if I can find it. 
> 
>> On Aug 6, 2018, at 7:05 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
>> 
>> I pulled out the KAT100 PIC chip and re-inserted. No change. 
>> 
>> I can confirm that transition ARE reaching Pin 40 on the KAT100 PIC chip. I 
>> see roughly three bursts. Two come shortly after turn-on, the third comes a 
>> second later. 
>> 
>> I think you’d need a storage scope or logic analyzer to reverse engineer the 
>> AUXBUS. I don’t have that kind of equipment available.
>> 
>> 
>>> On Aug 5, 2018, at 7:02 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>>> 
>>> Bill,
>>> 
>>> If it were a bad PIC chip, the results would be consistent. Reseat the 
>>> KAT100 firmware Ic to clear away oxidation.
>>> Look for a flaky connection on the Control cable - at both ends.
>>> 
>>> There is not much that you can diagnose with a 'scope other than to 
>>> determine that the chip is getting transitions to it.
>>> If you want to reverse engineer the K2 AUXBUS, then you could make some 
>>> determination of the AUXBUS correctness, but that is a difficult exercise 
>>> in futility IMHO.
>>> 
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>> 
>>> On 8/5/2018 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
 Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends.
 
 After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder 
 if I have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the 
 firmware, I think I have one. That will take a few days.
 
 I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip. I see transitions. Anything I 
 can diagnose with a scope?
 
 

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Are you looking at the K2 MCU firmware or the KAT100 firmware?
The KAT100 firmware currently is 1.05, and the 1.04 should work OK.

If you looked at the K2 firmware (hold any button while powering on and 
it will be briefly displayed), then the level to support the KAT100 must 
be 2.03d or above.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/7/2018 1:57 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Sadly, I have no old PIC chips for the KAT100 in my inventory. It came out of 
the box with the 1.04 firmware (which isn’t the latest, but I don’t have the 
K60XV, either.)

I do have a second DB9 cable I can try, if I can find it.




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

Sadly, I have no old PIC chips for the KAT100 in my inventory. It came out of 
the box with the 1.04 firmware (which isn’t the latest, but I don’t have the 
K60XV, either.)

I do have a second DB9 cable I can try, if I can find it. 

> On Aug 6, 2018, at 7:05 AM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> 
> I pulled out the KAT100 PIC chip and re-inserted. No change. 
> 
> I can confirm that transition ARE reaching Pin 40 on the KAT100 PIC chip. I 
> see roughly three bursts. Two come shortly after turn-on, the third comes a 
> second later. 
> 
> I think you’d need a storage scope or logic analyzer to reverse engineer the 
> AUXBUS. I don’t have that kind of equipment available.
> 
> 
>> On Aug 5, 2018, at 7:02 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Bill,
>> 
>> If it were a bad PIC chip, the results would be consistent. Reseat the 
>> KAT100 firmware Ic to clear away oxidation.
>> Look for a flaky connection on the Control cable - at both ends.
>> 
>> There is not much that you can diagnose with a 'scope other than to 
>> determine that the chip is getting transitions to it.
>> If you want to reverse engineer the K2 AUXBUS, then you could make some 
>> determination of the AUXBUS correctness, but that is a difficult exercise in 
>> futility IMHO.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>> On 8/5/2018 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>>> Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends.
>>> 
>>> After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder if 
>>> I have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the 
>>> firmware, I think I have one. That will take a few days.
>>> 
>>> I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip. I see transitions. Anything I 
>>> can diagnose with a scope?
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
> 
> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
> Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
>-- Wilbur Wright, 1901
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

I pulled out the KAT100 PIC chip and re-inserted. No change. 

I can confirm that transition ARE reaching Pin 40 on the KAT100 PIC chip. I see 
roughly three bursts. Two come shortly after turn-on, the third comes a second 
later. 

I think you’d need a storage scope or logic analyzer to reverse engineer the 
AUXBUS. I don’t have that kind of equipment available.


> On Aug 5, 2018, at 7:02 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> If it were a bad PIC chip, the results would be consistent. Reseat the KAT100 
> firmware Ic to clear away oxidation.
> Look for a flaky connection on the Control cable - at both ends.
> 
> There is not much that you can diagnose with a 'scope other than to determine 
> that the chip is getting transitions to it.
> If you want to reverse engineer the K2 AUXBUS, then you could make some 
> determination of the AUXBUS correctness, but that is a difficult exercise in 
> futility IMHO.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/5/2018 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>> Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends.
>> 
>> After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder if 
>> I have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the 
>> firmware, I think I have one. That will take a few days.
>> 
>> I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip. I see transitions. Anything I 
>> can diagnose with a scope?
>> 
>> 
> 

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

That’s not the way Elecraft recommends. The KAT100 contains an electronic 
switching mechanism. Power must be present at the KAT100 coaxial connection 
before the K2 is switched on. The KAT100 uses the 12CTRL voltage from the DB-9 
connector to turn on it’s internal supply.

> On Aug 5, 2018, at 7:29 PM, Bob McGraw K4TAX  wrote:
> 
> I would configure the station power such that the tuner is powered from the 
> switched source on the radio.   Thus the power supply is on first and then 
> the radio is turned on and powers the tuner at the same time. 
> 
> Bob, K4TAX
> 
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Aug 5, 2018, at 6:02 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
>> 
>> Bill,
>> 
>> If it were a bad PIC chip, the results would be consistent. Reseat the 
>> KAT100 firmware Ic to clear away oxidation.
>> Look for a flaky connection on the Control cable - at both ends.
>> 
>> There is not much that you can diagnose with a 'scope other than to 
>> determine that the chip is getting transitions to it.
>> If you want to reverse engineer the K2 AUXBUS, then you could make some 
>> determination of the AUXBUS correctness, but that is a difficult exercise in 
>> futility IMHO.
>> 
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>> 
>>> On 8/5/2018 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>>> Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends.
>>> 
>>> After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder if 
>>> I have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the 
>>> firmware, I think I have one. That will take a few days.
>>> 
>>> I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip. I see transitions. Anything I 
>>> can diagnose with a scope?
>>> 
>>> 
>> 
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> 
> 

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bob McGraw K4TAX]

I would configure the station power such that the tuner is powered from the 
switched source on the radio.   Thus the power supply is on first and then the 
radio is turned on and powers the tuner at the same time. 

Bob, K4TAX


Sent from my iPhone

> On Aug 5, 2018, at 6:02 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> If it were a bad PIC chip, the results would be consistent. Reseat the KAT100 
> firmware Ic to clear away oxidation.
> Look for a flaky connection on the Control cable - at both ends.
> 
> There is not much that you can diagnose with a 'scope other than to determine 
> that the chip is getting transitions to it.
> If you want to reverse engineer the K2 AUXBUS, then you could make some 
> determination of the AUXBUS correctness, but that is a difficult exercise in 
> futility IMHO.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
>> On 8/5/2018 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>> Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends.
>> 
>> After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder if 
>> I have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the 
>> firmware, I think I have one. That will take a few days.
>> 
>> I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip. I see transitions. Anything I 
>> can diagnose with a scope?
>> 
>> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

If it were a bad PIC chip, the results would be consistent. Reseat the 
KAT100 firmware Ic to clear away oxidation.

Look for a flaky connection on the Control cable - at both ends.

There is not much that you can diagnose with a 'scope other than to 
determine that the chip is getting transitions to it.
If you want to reverse engineer the K2 AUXBUS, then you could make some 
determination of the AUXBUS correctness, but that is a difficult 
exercise in futility IMHO.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/5/2018 5:36 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends.

After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder if I 
have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the firmware, 
I think I have one. That will take a few days.

I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip. I see transitions. Anything I can 
diagnose with a scope?




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends. 

After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder if I 
have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the firmware, 
I think I have one. That will take a few days.

I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip. I see transitions. Anything I can 
diagnose with a scope?

> On Aug 5, 2018, at 5:14 PM, Don Wilhelm  wrote:
> 
> Bill,
> 
> Fine on the power sequence, but the Not Inst message indicates that either 
> the Control Cable to the K2 is not fully plugged in (check both ends) or the 
> cable has a bad connection, or that the firmware in the KAT100 is not being 
> recognized.
> 
> You should tighten the cable jackscrews to check the first, and for the last 
> situation, try reseating the firmware IC in the KAT100.
> 
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
> 
> On 8/5/2018 4:50 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>> Yes, I have a cable that has the PowerPole connections to the K2/100, and a 
>> separate coaxial jack for the KAT100.
>> I switch the power supply on, which means the KAT100 has power, then switch 
>> the K2/100 on, which powers up the combo.
>> So, yeah, I have power applied to the KAT100 before the K2.

Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Don Wilhelm]

Bill,

Fine on the power sequence, but the Not Inst message indicates that 
either the Control Cable to the K2 is not fully plugged in (check both 
ends) or the cable has a bad connection, or that the firmware in the 
KAT100 is not being recognized.


You should tighten the cable jackscrews to check the first, and for the 
last situation, try reseating the firmware IC in the KAT100.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/5/2018 4:50 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:

Yes, I have a cable that has the PowerPole connections to the K2/100, and a 
separate coaxial jack for the KAT100.

I switch the power supply on, which means the KAT100 has power, then switch the 
K2/100 on, which powers up the combo.

So, yeah, I have power applied to the KAT100 before the K2.


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

Yes, I have a cable that has the PowerPole connections to the K2/100, and a 
separate coaxial jack for the KAT100.

I switch the power supply on, which means the KAT100 has power, then switch the 
K2/100 on, which powers up the combo.

So, yeah, I have power applied to the KAT100 before the K2.

> On Aug 5, 2018, at 4:39 PM, Jerry Ford  wrote:
> 
> Hi Bill: The K2 / KAT100  has a strange start up procedure you have 
> to follow or the KAT100  will do strange things like you describe
> 
> You have to apply power to the KAT100  before you apply power to the K2. 
> IF you start the K2 first,  you get all kinds of strange things going on. 
> 
> I have my KAT100 in a separate enclosure and on a separate power supply.   I 
> forget to start the KAT100 first at times and it does some of the
> same things your seeing.
> 
> Hope this helps.  
> 
> 73 Jerry  N0JRN
> 
> On Sun, Aug 5, 2018 at 3:29 PM, Bill Coleman  wrote:
> OK, I have a K2/100 (#2548) connected to a KAT100. 
> 
> As of late, the KAT100 has been reluctant to turn on. I turn on the K2, and 
> it comes up right away, but the LEDs of the KAT100 often stay off for 20-30 
> seconds, then come on. 
> 
> When the KAT100 finally turns on, it often isn’t tracking lo-hi power, as I 
> can rotate the power knob freely from <10 watts to >11 watts, and the KAT100 
> will stay stuck at a power level, usually low power. 
> 
> Also, if I try to change antennas, or tune, I’ll get a “not inst” message. 
> 
> This situation persists for a while. If I let the rig warm up for about 15-20 
> minutes, I can eventually get the K2 to recognize the KAT100. I may have to 
> cycle the power a half dozen times.
> 
> I’ve verified with a scope that the KAT100 is getting the 12CTRL power 
> immediately from the K2, and the internal power on the 5V regulator comes up 
> immediately. It just seems to take it’s sweet time waking up.
> 
> I think the fundamental problem may be that the KAT100 isn’t responding to 
> AUXBUS messages at the right point in the power-up sequence, so the K2 assume 
> it’s not installed. 
> 
> Would appreciate any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this. 
> 
> 
> Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
> Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
> Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
> -- Wilbur Wright, 1901
> 
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Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
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-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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[Elecraft] KAT100 - Reluctant to come on, K2 often displays "not inst"

[Bill Coleman]

OK, I have a K2/100 (#2548) connected to a KAT100. 

As of late, the KAT100 has been reluctant to turn on. I turn on the K2, and it 
comes up right away, but the LEDs of the KAT100 often stay off for 20-30 
seconds, then come on. 

When the KAT100 finally turns on, it often isn’t tracking lo-hi power, as I can 
rotate the power knob freely from <10 watts to >11 watts, and the KAT100 will 
stay stuck at a power level, usually low power. 

Also, if I try to change antennas, or tune, I’ll get a “not inst” message. 

This situation persists for a while. If I let the rig warm up for about 15-20 
minutes, I can eventually get the K2 to recognize the KAT100. I may have to 
cycle the power a half dozen times.

I’ve verified with a scope that the KAT100 is getting the 12CTRL power 
immediately from the K2, and the internal power on the 5V regulator comes up 
immediately. It just seems to take it’s sweet time waking up.

I think the fundamental problem may be that the KAT100 isn’t responding to 
AUXBUS messages at the right point in the power-up sequence, so the K2 assume 
it’s not installed. 

Would appreciate any suggestions on how to troubleshoot this. 


Bill Coleman, AA4LR, PP-ASELMail: aa...@arrl.net
Web: http://boringhamradiopart.blogspot.com
Quote: "Not within a thousand years will man ever fly!"
-- Wilbur Wright, 1901

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 issue

[Don Wilhelm]

Mike,

I would believe that diodes D1 and D2 in the KAT100 have been damaged by 
a nearby lightning surge.  If that is not the cause, then the firmware 
IC may be damaged.  BTW, it will not tune correctly the way it is.


The diodes are 1N5711 type Elecraft p/n E560004.  I would get 4 of them. 
 If the KAT100 diodes have been damaged, it is likely that D16 and D17 
in the KPA100 have also been damaged.


To check the KPA100, remove the KAT100 and transmit into a dummy load. 
Put an external wattmeter between the KPA100 and the dummy load.
Set the power knob to about 50 watts and do a TUNE.  The power shown 
both on the K2 and the external meter should be between 20 and 25 watts.
If instead the actual power is quite high (it can go up to 180 watts), 
then the KPA100 wattmeter is not working, and diodes D16 and D17 need to 
be replaced.


If the power does go quite high, do not operate the K2/100 until it is 
repaired.  Continued operation will result in distortion and in a short 
period of time the base K2 PA transistors will destroy themselves.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/4/2018 1:24 PM, Mike Baird wrote:

An issue has arisen with my KAT100.  The tuner works fine but the LEDs for
the SWR do not light.  The PWR and Antenna LEDs are OK.  Can someone
recommend a solution?

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[Elecraft] KAT100 issue

[Mike Baird]

An issue has arisen with my KAT100.  The tuner works fine but the LEDs for
the SWR do not light.  The PWR and Antenna LEDs are OK.  Can someone
recommend a solution?

Thanks,

MIke, W0RSR
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 and 2 Discontinued

[Don Wilhelm]

The KAT100-1 is now properly on the order section of the webpage and the 
shipping status page.  I did not check further.


Yes, the shipping status properly shows the KAT100-2 as discontinued, 
but the KAT100-1 is listed as In Stock right above that item.


The K2 will ship soon after the new parts come in.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/20/2018 8:32 PM, Gary Watson wrote:

This may be old news, I searched and didn't see anything about it.

I was looking at the Shipping Status page and noticed they had discontinued
the tuner.  They still have the KPA100 for sale, but without the tuner it's
seems it won't be long before they discontinue the 100 watt amp.

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 and 2 Discontinued

[Gary Watson]

Looks like the KAT100-1 is back on the order page.  I had to refresh the
browser to see it.  That's good news.

Gary Watson


On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 10:06 PM, Don Wilhelm 
wrote:

> The KAT100-1 is still shown on the Products page.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/20/2018 10:10 PM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:
>
>>
>>
>> 
>>
>> I hope you are right, Don. The shipping status page shows both the 1 and 2
>> discontinued. And neither one is on the order page.
>>
>> I built my K2 in 2001 and later added the amp, KAT100, etc. It has been
>> one
>> of the most fun things that I have done in this hobby. And it is still the
>> main radio in the shack.
>>
>> 73, George NC5G
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 and 2 Discontinued

[Don Wilhelm]

The KAT100-1 is still shown on the Products page.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/20/2018 10:10 PM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:





I hope you are right, Don. The shipping status page shows both the 1 and 2
discontinued. And neither one is on the order page.

I built my K2 in 2001 and later added the amp, KAT100, etc. It has been one
of the most fun things that I have done in this hobby. And it is still the
main radio in the shack.

73, George NC5G



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 and 2 Discontinued

[Don Wilhelm]

I will contact the folks at Elecraft tomorrow to see why the KAT100-1 
has disappeared from the website.  Perhaps it was an error.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/20/2018 10:10 PM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:





I hope you are right, Don. The shipping status page shows both the 1 and 2
discontinued. And neither one is on the order page.

I built my K2 in 2001 and later added the amp, KAT100, etc. It has been one
of the most fun things that I have done in this hobby. And it is still the
main radio in the shack.

73, George NC5G



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 and 2 Discontinued

[George Winship, NC5G]

I hope you are right, Don. The shipping status page shows both the 1 and 2
discontinued. And neither one is on the order page.

I built my K2 in 2001 and later added the amp, KAT100, etc. It has been one
of the most fun things that I have done in this hobby. And it is still the
main radio in the shack. 

73, George NC5G



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100-1 and 2 Discontinued

[Don Wilhelm]

Gary and all,

The KAT100-1 is still available, it was the EC2 enclosure which was 
discontinued, and that is the reason the KAT100-2 was also discontinued.

You cannot build the KAT100-2 without the enclosure.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 3/20/2018 8:32 PM, Gary Watson wrote:

This may be old news, I searched and didn't see anything about it.

I was looking at the Shipping Status page and noticed they had discontinued
the tuner.  They still have the KPA100 for sale, but without the tuner it's
seems it won't be long before they discontinue the 100 watt amp.

The K2 kit is on back order due to a high volume of orders so if you want
one it may be a good time to get on the list.

Makes me glad I was able to build the entire K2/100 and KAT100-2 and all
the optional boards.

What a great radio.  I like to listen to this rig more then my K3 on CW.
It just has a pleasing tone.

All good things must come to an end I suppose.

W7EE
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[Elecraft] KAT100-1 and 2 Discontinued

[Gary Watson]

This may be old news, I searched and didn't see anything about it.

I was looking at the Shipping Status page and noticed they had discontinued
the tuner.  They still have the KPA100 for sale, but without the tuner it's
seems it won't be long before they discontinue the 100 watt amp.

The K2 kit is on back order due to a high volume of orders so if you want
one it may be a good time to get on the list.

Makes me glad I was able to build the entire K2/100 and KAT100-2 and all
the optional boards.

What a great radio.  I like to listen to this rig more then my K3 on CW.
It just has a pleasing tone.

All good things must come to an end I suppose.

W7EE
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Re: [Elecraft] : KAT100 failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jean,

If you have measured the antenna with your antenna analyzer, it should 
be OK.

First check diodes D1 and D2 in the KAT100.

If those are good, then turn to page 28 in the KAT100 manual and do the 
SWR Bridge Null adjustment and the Power Calibration (page 29)


If you still have problems, turn to page 35 in the manual and do the 
procedures as described in "Testing Relays, Inductors, and Capacitors".


73,
Don W3FPR


On 9/8/2016 5:19 AM, Behiels jean-Pierre wrote:


Hi K2 members and Don W3FPR.

Last night I do have next failure.

I was transmitting with 50 W in CW with my K2/100 with in conjunction 
with my  KAT100 into a perfect aligned 7 Mhz dipole (SWR1/1)


Before starting I always do a tune with my K2 we never no the SWR is 
bad hi.


The SWR indication on the KAT100 was outstanding 1/1,what I suspect 
because I now the SWR of my antenne already was 1/1 !


After transmitting a while (5 minutes or so) the KAT100 SWR indication 
was in the red zone,I stop transmitting immediately.


My RX level was dropping down to a zero level,propably a interruption 
in the ANT1 connection of my KAT100.


I do change by means of the K2 command on the frontpanel to ANT2 
connection and back to ANT1 connection.


Nothing happens to help the failure yet,same failure no RX on ANT1 
connection ?


I do disconnect the KAT 100 unit and remove the power supply of the K2 
and his KAT 100.


After all (toggling with the relays ???) I can receive again on both 
ANT1 and 2 but I do have the correct impression that the receive level


on the ANT1 connection has been attenuated since I do hat this failure 
last night !





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[Elecraft] : KAT100 failure

[Behiels jean-Pierre]

Hi K2 members and Don W3FPR.

 

Last night I do have next failure.

I was transmitting with 50 W in CW with my K2/100 with in conjunction with
my  KAT100 into a perfect aligned 7 Mhz dipole (SWR1/1)

Before starting I always do a tune with my K2 we never no the SWR is bad hi.

The SWR indication on the KAT100 was outstanding 1/1,what I suspect because
I now the SWR of my antenne already was 1/1 !

After transmitting a while (5 minutes or so) the KAT100 SWR indication was
in the red zone,I stop transmitting immediately.

My RX level was dropping down to a zero level,propably a interruption in the
ANT1 connection of my KAT100.

I do change by means of the K2 command on the frontpanel to ANT2 connection
and back to ANT1 connection.

Nothing happens to help the failure yet,same failure no RX on ANT1
connection ?

I do disconnect the KAT 100 unit and remove the power supply of the K2 and
his KAT 100.

After all (toggling with the relays ???) I can receive again on both ANT1
and 2 but I do have the correct impression that the receive level 

on the ANT1 connection has been attenuated since I do hat this failure last
night !

There is still a failure now,I could not tune anymore the 7 Mhz antenne
connected on both ANT1 or on the ANT2 connection 

The software system the K2 is tuning well but could not find anymore a
correct value of  1/1,I suppose.

During the automatic tuning procedure the SWR leds are swiping around 1.7
and 2.5 (yellow leds on frontpanel of KAT100).

And the systems stays tuning yet with no final result !!

This last was not happens before the tuning procedure was very quick and
short and the indication on the KAT100 was 1/1.

I do have check the antenne himself and the antenne coax cables again
nothing wrong with them ,they are  all still 1/1.

I think I do have damaged some components inside the KAT100 due possible RF
injection or something like that during the TX operation I made ?
Any suggestions are welcome,where I have to take a look on it.

I do have made some measurements already

Aligned to ANT 1 next relays are supplied K1-K3-K4-K6-K12 (12VDC).

Aligned to ANT2 next relays are supplied K7-K13-K17-K18 (12VDC).

I do have measured between the switching contacts of those activated relays
1-3-4 everything seems to be have the correct values during changeover ?

To be honest because I do have not mutch experience  with the KAT100
schematic,I could not direct follow witch way the RX signal is exactly
following during

the 2 positions of ANT1 and ANT2 !!  

 

I hope someone could me point into the correct direction .

 

Regards Jean ON4AEF.

 

 

E-mail : 
jeanpierre.behi...@telenet.be

 

 

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Re: [Elecraft] KAt100 power on question

[Don Wilhelm]

The KAT100 needs both the 12 volt power connection *and* the 12CTRL 
signal from the K2 to power itself on.
So yes, you need the control cable plugged from the base K2 (or KPA100) 
to the KAT100 before you will see any lights.  The control cable is 
shown in the KAT100 manual.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 5/25/2016 8:47 PM, mjpilgrim wrote:

I recently purchased a used KAT100.  Not sure how to interpret a possible
failing condition at Power UP time.  Stupid Question:  If I simply connect
12VDC to the DC power input jack on the KAT100 (without the K2 physically
connected), should I see the lights eliminated on the KAT100?  Reason I ask
is because at one time during my initial hookup I seem to recall the lights
on, but now they are not.  Don't know if possibly my interface cable had a
shorted connection, or what.  Nonetheless, before I re-cable and try again,
I just needed to ask if I might have a problem in which the lights do not
come on.  Upon close inspection of the interface cable I think I located a
shorted connection at the KAT100 connection.  I removed that shorted
condition but I feel hesitant to plug in a try the operational status of the
setup.  Can anyone please tell me if the KAT100 lights illuminate when the
12VDC power is connected, or must the unit be calbed to the K2?




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Re: [Elecraft] KAt100 power on question

[Brian Denley]

Made the same mistake.  You need both power cables hooked up: one to the KAT100 
and one to the K2.  You can use a 'Y' cable to power both.
Brian

KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad

> On May 25, 2016, at 8:47 PM, mjpilgrim  wrote:
> 
> I recently purchased a used KAT100.  Not sure how to interpret a possible
> failing condition at Power UP time.  Stupid Question:  If I simply connect
> 12VDC to the DC power input jack on the KAT100 (without the K2 physically
> connected), should I see the lights eliminated on the KAT100?  Reason I ask
> is because at one time during my initial hookup I seem to recall the lights
> on, but now they are not.  Don't know if possibly my interface cable had a
> shorted connection, or what.  Nonetheless, before I re-cable and try again,
> I just needed to ask if I might have a problem in which the lights do not
> come on.  Upon close inspection of the interface cable I think I located a
> shorted connection at the KAT100 connection.  I removed that shorted
> condition but I feel hesitant to plug in a try the operational status of the
> setup.  Can anyone please tell me if the KAT100 lights illuminate when the
> 12VDC power is connected, or must the unit be calbed to the K2?
> 
> Thanks, 
> 
> 
> 
> --
> View this message in context: 
> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/KAt100-power-on-question-tp7618014.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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[Elecraft] KAt100 power on question

[mjpilgrim]

I recently purchased a used KAT100.  Not sure how to interpret a possible
failing condition at Power UP time.  Stupid Question:  If I simply connect
12VDC to the DC power input jack on the KAT100 (without the K2 physically
connected), should I see the lights eliminated on the KAT100?  Reason I ask
is because at one time during my initial hookup I seem to recall the lights
on, but now they are not.  Don't know if possibly my interface cable had a
shorted connection, or what.  Nonetheless, before I re-cable and try again,
I just needed to ask if I might have a problem in which the lights do not
come on.  Upon close inspection of the interface cable I think I located a
shorted connection at the KAT100 connection.  I removed that shorted
condition but I feel hesitant to plug in a try the operational status of the
setup.  Can anyone please tell me if the KAT100 lights illuminate when the
12VDC power is connected, or must the unit be calbed to the K2?

Thanks, 



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[Elecraft] KAT100-1 vs KAT100-2

[Dauer, Edward]

Many thanks, Ken; your paper on converting to a KAT100-2 in the EC-2 is just 
what I needed.

My initial question to the reflector was answered when I learned that the KAT2 
mounts in the base K2 cover (thanks to several people who told me that.)   But 
having resolved that issue, the next question is whether the arrangement I 
presently have is the best for my uses.  When I first purchased the K2 I 
debated which way to go, and decided at the time to use the low-profile 
enclosure for the KAT100 principally to reduce the footprint on my desk.  
(Stacking the K2 on top of an EC2 looked possible but it would have put the K2 
display too high for comfortable viewing.  By contrast the KAT100-1 low-profile 
enclosure is both shorter and has a shorter tilt bale.)

I have since learned that while it is certainly feasible to swap the base K2 
cover for the cover with the KPA100 every time I go from QRO to QRP, as it 
turns out removing all the screws and especially the internal plugs requires 
more care and is a bit more cumbersome than I had thought it would be.  So, 
converting the KAT100-1 to a KAT100-2, and installing the KPA100 in the EC-2 
enclosure, is one way to make the transitions easier, even if the footprint is 
larger.

From reading your paper I gather I will need the EC-2, the KAT100PNL conversion 
kit, the KAT2 for the base K2, and the KI02.  The literature about the KI02 
suggests it is required for computer control of the K2, which I don’t care 
about – but I take it that having a KI02 is necessary for the conversion as the 
way the K2 will communicate with the KPA in the EC-2, yes?  The remaining 
questions are whether the new toroid you recommend is included in the 
conversion kit or if the core will also have to be ordered; and whether, having 
initially installed the KPA100 in the K2 and the KAT100 in the low-profile 
enclosure, anything irrevocable was done that would complicate moving them 
both.  From the manuals it seems not, but I thought I’d ask . . .

Finally, I know I could have sent this to you off-list.  But I found your paper 
very useful, and my experiences with the enclosure choice possibly useful to 
others who may be making the same decision, that I thought I would post them 
here and have it captured for the archives.

Thanks again,

Ted, KN1CBR
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 IN EC2 ENCLOSURE

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

There is no one transistor that will cause that behavior.

First put an in-line wattmeter and a dummy load on the KAT100 ANT1 
connector, set the power to 50 watts and then enter TUNE.
1) does the tuner tune so no LEDs are lit on the KAT100?  If no, how 
many are lit?
2) what is the power indicated on the wattmeter (it should be about 20 
watts)?


You may have "popped" one or more of the diodes in either the KPA100 or 
the KAT100 wattmeter, but the answers to the above questions will 
indicate where to look next.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2016 12:56 AM, Jerry Ford wrote:

  Good evening all:
I'm looking for some advise.   My KAT100 / KPA100  are in an EC2 enclosure next 
to my K2.
I was changing bands this evening and neglected to changeantenna's when moving 
from 80 to 40 meters.
I hit the   " TUNE "   on the K2  and my KAT100  triedto tune.  It ran through 
the scale a couple of times beforeI could shut it off.
Now when I hit the "TUNE"  button,  the radio goes intotransmit,  but the tuner 
isn't tuning anything.   Normal operation the tuner would tune and go back to receive.
It doesn't change back to receive unless I hit the tunebutton again.  SO,   the 
tuner quit.
I remember reading about a transistor that fails and causes this issue but I 
don't remember which one it is.
SO,   looking for some information.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 IN EC2 ENCLOSURE

[Jerry Ford]

Good Morning Don:
I did as you instructed.  On 40 meters the watt meter is reading 120 watts.
I have 1 LED showing on the tuner.  The display on the K2 shows 52 wattsand 
1.1-1  SWR
As I change bands,  the results change.   The higher bands are showing less 
power out and SWR up to  1.5-1.. The number of LED'sshowing on the tuner 
agree with the SWR indicated on the K2's display.
The tuner does not attempt to tune.  I do not hear the relays changingas I move 
from band to band.  Entering  " TUNE "   mode is the sameas entering transmit 
with my straight key.  
I have to tap my key or one of the button on the K2  to exit TUNE.
Where does this take us ??
Thank you Don and Happy New Year:
Jerry N0JRN





  
First put an in-line wattmeter and a dummy load on the KAT100 ANT1 
connector, set the power to 50 watts and then enter TUNE.
1) does the tuner tune so no LEDs are lit on the KAT100?  If no, how 
many are lit?
2) what is the power indicated on the wattmeter (it should be about 20 
watts)?

You may have "popped" one or more of the diodes in either the KPA100 or 
the KAT100 wattmeter, but the answers to the above questions will 
indicate where to look next.


  
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 IN EC2 ENCLOSURE

[Don Wilhelm]

Jerry,

If you set the power to 40 watts as I asked, you should not have 120 
watts output with TUNE.
First you have to fix that power control problem.  The most likely cause 
of that is the wattmeter diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100. They are 
1N5711 diodes, and you should order 4 of them so you can have 2 to 
replace the ones in the KAT100 if necessary.


After replacing those diodes, test the KPA100 mounted on the base K2, 
*not* in the EC2 enclosure.  If you still do not have good power control 
- a TUNE with the KPA100 only connected to the base K2 should produce 20 
watts, TUNE + DISPLAY should produce the power you have set on the power 
knob.


In the meantime, you might try removing the KPA100 from the EC2 
enclosure and operating the KAT100 only from the base K2 (you will have 
to power the KAT100 from the 2.1mm power jack).  Again, first into a 
dummy load with the external wattmeter connected in-line. With the ATU 
menu set to CAL, does the external wattmeter agree with the power 
displayed on the K2, and does the SWR agree (during a TUNE)?  If so, the 
wattmeter diodes in the KAT100 are OK.
Next, set the ATU menu to AUTO and see if the KAT100 tunes to the dummy 
load.  If not, either the firmware is faulty or U2 or U3 or U4 may be 
faulty.


You can go into the ATU menu and activate each relay individually - see 
the KAT100 manual.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 1/2/2016 11:01 AM, Jerry Ford wrote:

Good Morning Don:
I did as you instructed.  On 40 meters the watt meter is reading 120 watts.
I have 1 LED showing on the tuner.  The display on the K2 shows 52 wattsand 
1.1-1  SWR
As I change bands,  the results change.   The higher bands are showing less 
power out and SWR up to  1.5-1.. The number of LED'sshowing on the tuner 
agree with the SWR indicated on the K2's display.
The tuner does not attempt to tune.  I do not hear the relays changingas I move from band 
to band.  Entering  " TUNE "   mode is the sameas entering transmit with my 
straight key.
I have to tap my key or one of the button on the K2  to exit TUNE.
Where does this take us ??
Thank you Don and Happy New Year:
Jerry N0JRN





   
First put an in-line wattmeter and a dummy load on the KAT100 ANT1

connector, set the power to 50 watts and then enter TUNE.
1) does the tuner tune so no LEDs are lit on the KAT100?  If no, how
many are lit?
2) what is the power indicated on the wattmeter (it should be about 20
watts)?

You may have "popped" one or more of the diodes in either the KPA100 or
the KAT100 wattmeter, but the answers to the above questions will
indicate where to look next.


   
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[Elecraft] KAT100 IN EC2 ENCLOSURE

[Jerry Ford]

 Good evening all:
I'm looking for some advise.   My KAT100 / KPA100  are in an EC2 enclosure next 
to my K2.
I was changing bands this evening and neglected to changeantenna's when moving 
from 80 to 40 meters.
I hit the   " TUNE "   on the K2  and my KAT100  triedto tune.  It ran through 
the scale a couple of times beforeI could shut it off.
Now when I hit the "TUNE"  button,  the radio goes intotransmit,  but the tuner 
isn't tuning anything.   Normal operation the tuner would tune and go back to 
receive.
It doesn't change back to receive unless I hit the tunebutton again.  SO,   the 
tuner quit.
I remember reading about a transistor that fails and causes this issue but I 
don't remember which one it is.
SO,   looking for some information.   
Any idea's what I'm looking for ???
Thanks:  73    Jerry N0JRN
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[Elecraft] KAT100 Pre-wound Toroids for sale

[Doug Shields]

Hello everyone,

 I have an extra set of pre-wound toroids for the KAT100 auto-tuner for
sale.  These are from Mychael Morohovich and are of his normal very high
quality.  I got them with a KAT100 kit but I prefer to wind the toroids
myself.  Mychael gets $37.50 plus $8.00 for postage.  I will sell the exact
same toroid set for $30 shipped via Priority Mail in the US.  

 

Doug  W4DAS

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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

Ok,  I received the new diodes today and have installed them into the KAT100. 
Running the tests in CAL mode has the LED indicators on the KAT100 matching
what the display on the K2 reads, as well as matching the W2 watt meter.  Is
there anything else I should be looking at before starting to put things
back together?



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

It sounds to me like all should be well.

As a refinement ---
If you have 2 50 ohm dummy loads and a coax TEE adapter, you could put 
the dummy loads in parallel to produce a 25 ohm dummy load. That will 
give you a sanity check on the Reflected trimmer pot calibration - 
adjust it to light the SWR=2 LED.


Note that the power and SWR displayed on the K2 come from the KPA100 and 
not the KAT100.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/10/2015 6:14 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

Ok,  I received the new diodes today and have installed them into the KAT100.
Running the tests in CAL mode has the LED indicators on the KAT100 matching
what the display on the K2 reads, as well as matching the W2 watt meter.  Is
there anything else I should be looking at before starting to put things
back together?



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Since you have the KPA100 disconnected and the KAT100 connected to the 
KIO2 for control, the KAT100 with the K2 ATA menu in CAL, you can 
calibrate the KAT100 much like the KAT2 for wattmeter balance and 
forward power.


Connect the K2 to the RF IN and a dummy load and inline wattmeter to ANT1.
Set the power to 8 or 10 watts, and do a TUNE.
Measure the voltage at U5 pin 5 and adjust C1 to achieve a minimum 
voltage - it should be close to zero volts.
Then set R3 (forward trimmer pot) so the K2 display agrees with the 
power indicated on the external wattmeter.


Since you do not have 25 ohm or 100 ohm dummy loads, power off the K2 
and measure the resistance from U5 pin 3 to ground.  Then multiply that 
resistance by 1.2 (remember that value).
Then measure the resistance between U5 pin 3 to ground and adjust R4 to 
produce the resistance value you calculated.


It does sound like you have things adjusted close to optimum, but a 
double check will do no harm.


If you do find another dummy load to create a 25 ohm dully load, you can 
touch up the R4 (REFL) trimmer pot to properly indicate an SWR of 2.0.
If by that time you have the KPA100 inline, you still can do it with the 
KPA100 on it's back to the right of the EC2 enclosure (supported on a 
boox or box about half the height of the enclosure).  If you do it with 
the KPA100 inline, adjust R4 so the KAT100 LEDs indicate an SWR of 2.0 
and ignore the K2 display.  With the KPA100 inline, the K2 display will 
show the power and SWR seen by the KPA100 wattmeter, not the KAT100.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/10/2015 8:25 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

Thanks Don.  The KPA 100 is still disconnected.  I have the base K2 with KAT2
connected to the KAT100 in the EC2 chassis.  This normally has the KPA100 on
top, but was removed as suggested to perform the troubleshooting.

I don't have an extra dummy load at this time, but I am going to see if I
can borrow one and test as you suggested.




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

Thanks Don.  The KPA 100 is still disconnected.  I have the base K2 with KAT2
connected to the KAT100 in the EC2 chassis.  This normally has the KPA100 on
top, but was removed as suggested to perform the troubleshooting.

I don't have an extra dummy load at this time, but I am going to see if I
can borrow one and test as you suggested.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Dead

[Don Wilhelm]

Tom,

Check the voltages on Q8.  When the K2 is powered, you should have 12 
volts on the gate and the drain should go to a low voltage.

That in turn should make Q1 conduct.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/6/2015 11:41 PM, Tom Field wrote:

Having gotten the side tone situation sorted out, I now find I have no
power going to the KAT 100.
I've checked the plug and voltage on D4, R12, and R11.  There appears to be
nothing getting through Q1, I have no voltage on the collector and no
voltage on U8.  Bad Q1?




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[Elecraft] KAT100 Dead

[Tom Field]

Having gotten the side tone situation sorted out, I now find I have no
power going to the KAT 100.
I've checked the plug and voltage on D4, R12, and R11.  There appears to be
nothing getting through Q1, I have no voltage on the collector and no
voltage on U8.  Bad Q1?

Tom
KN6DR
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

Parts are on order.  I'll update once I have the diodes swapped.  Thanks for
the help thus far.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

The wattmeter in the KAT100 has been damaged - diodes D1 and D2.
You also have the KPA100, and it has a wattmeter with those diodes - so 
order 4 just in case those need to be replaced too.

We can get to the KPA100 after the KAT100 has been taken care of.

Failure to disconnect the antenna from the K2 when not in use will 
damage those diodes from static coning in from the feedline(s).


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2015 8:36 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

Ok, redid the tests in CAL mode with the following results:
160M 1.03:1 No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1  Hi Current
warning
80M 1.03:1  No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
60M 1.02:1  No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
40M 1.03:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 3.   K2 showed 3.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
30M 1.03:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 3.   K2 showed 3.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
20M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 2.5. K2 showed 2.6:1  Hi Current 
warning
17M 1.04:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 1.7. K2 showed 1.8:1  Hi Current 
warning
15M 1.04:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 2.   K2 showed 2.0:1
12M 1.05:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 1.7. K2 showed 1.8:1
10M 1.06:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 2.   K2 showed 2.0:1

I guess ordering from Elecraft is the safest bet.  It will take a bit
longer, but so be it.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

Ok, so I've removed the KPA100 completely, and disconnected the KAT2 serial
and RF connections.  I connected my W2 watt meter on the output of ANT2 of
the KAT100, and the LOAD side of the sensor to a 50 ohm dummy load.  The
readings and indications I got are as follows:

160M1.00:1  No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1
80M 1.00:1  No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1
60M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 flickered a bit and remained off once tuning was
finished.  K2 showed 5.6:1
40M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 flickered a bit and remained off once tuning was
finished.  K2 showed 5.6:1
30M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 flickered a bit and finally lit 2.  K2 showed
2.3:1
20M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit as expected and finally lit 1.  K2 showed
1.2:1
17M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit as expected and finished at 1.  K2 showed
1.0:1
15M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit as expected and finished at 1.  K2 showed
1.0:1
12M 1.05:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit as expected and finished at 1.  K2 showed
1.0:1
10M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit as expected and finished at 1.  K2 showed
1.0:1

I'm still digging around for the diodes, but if I haven't found any by
tomorrow I'll be putting in an order to digikey.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

Do not order alternatives for use in the wattmeters.  Use only 1N5711s 
if you want the best voltage response vs. frequency.
Those parameters are not specified.  Elecraft chose those diodes long 
ago based on testing for that frequency response.
If you are looking for alternatives, and do not care about the readings 
obtained at lower power levels (QRP), then you could use 1N4148 diodes 
which are plentiful.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2015 7:31 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

What are the specs for the diodes?  I'm seeing 70V 15mA as the common size.




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Ken G Kopp]

Jeremy, why not order the diodes from Elecraft and be sure you get the
correct ones?

73!

Ken - K0PP
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

Your first link resulted in an error 404, but the 2nd showed a diode 
that I believe may be a specialty version. It was highly overpriced at 
over $11 each.  The Aligent data sheet for the 1N5711 shows it to be a 
15 ma device.
You would do better to order from Elecraft.  Order E560004 - Diode, 
1N5711, small glass body from pa...@elecraft.com.  Order 2 of them (or 
possibly 4 since you do not yet know the status of those in the KPA100).


An alternate source is The Toroid King http://www.partsandkits.com.  
Diz prices his 1N5711 diodes at 10 for $2 (plus shipping).

I have purchased those diodes from Diz for a long time - never a problem.

Yes, those test results are not valid unless the KAT100 was in CAL - in 
any other setting there would have been L and C elements active, and the 
goal is to test the wattmeter as the first step.


73,
Don W3FPR


On 7/20/2015 7:59 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

The diodes I was looking at were 1N5711, but they were either 70V 15mA
(http://www.digikey.ca/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?DetailitemSeq=176360177uq=635730153536694158)
or 70V 33mA
(http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en/discrete-semiconductor-products/diodes-rectifiers-single/1376383?k=1n5711).

I just want to make sure I get one with the proper rating.

I did not have the KAT100 in CAL mode.  Guess I'll be redoing the tests and
posting the results shortly.




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

Ok, redid the tests in CAL mode with the following results:
160M 1.03:1 No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1  Hi Current
warning
80M 1.03:1  No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
60M 1.02:1  No LED indication on KAT100.  K2 showed 1.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
40M 1.03:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 3.   K2 showed 3.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
30M 1.03:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 3.   K2 showed 3.0:1  Hi Current 
warning
20M 1.00:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 2.5. K2 showed 2.6:1  Hi Current 
warning
17M 1.04:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 1.7. K2 showed 1.8:1  Hi Current 
warning
15M 1.04:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 2.   K2 showed 2.0:1  
12M 1.05:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 1.7. K2 showed 1.8:1  
10M 1.06:1  LEDs on KAT100 lit up to 2.   K2 showed 2.0:1

I guess ordering from Elecraft is the safest bet.  It will take a bit
longer, but so be it.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

Hopefully you had the ATU menu set to CAL for those tests.  If not, 
please re-do the measurements.

Assuming that you were set for ATU CAL, I can offer these comments:
With the configuration you have now - KAT2 and KPA100 out of the 
picture, those results indicate that 1) the KAT100 wattmeter is not 
properly balanced and calibrated, or 2) something in the KAT100 
wattmeter has been damaged - most likely diodes D1 and D2.
It is possible that the diodes have been 'partially damaged' and have 
become frequency sensitive.
With a dummy load connected and the ATU menu set to CAL, you should have 
a 1.0 SWR on all bands.
The fact that you do not says that either the wattmeter is not properly 
balanced, or one or both diodes are bad, or that there is some random 
L/C element stuck in the path to he dummy load (that would be a relay 
problem).


I would arbitrarily replace D1 and D2, and then attempt to balance and 
calibrate the KAT100 wattmeter as indicated in the KAT100 manual.
If you cannot achieve a good null when balancing, just stop - attempting 
further steps is futile until you can obtain a good null.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/20/2015 7:15 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

Ok, so I've removed the KPA100 completely, and disconnected the KAT2 serial
and RF connections.  I connected my W2 watt meter on the output of ANT2 of
the KAT100, and the LOAD side of the sensor to a 50 ohm dummy load.  The
readings and indications I got are as follows:




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

The diodes I was looking at were 1N5711, but they were either 70V 15mA
(http://www.digikey.ca/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?DetailitemSeq=176360177uq=635730153536694158)
or 70V 33mA
(http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en/discrete-semiconductor-products/diodes-rectifiers-single/1376383?k=1n5711).

I just want to make sure I get one with the proper rating.

I did not have the KAT100 in CAL mode.  Guess I'll be redoing the tests and
posting the results shortly.



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

What are the specs for the diodes?  I'm seeing 70V 15mA as the common size.



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[Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[JeremyJones]

After many months of flawless operation, my KAT100 is starting to have
trouble tuning up, particularly on 40 and 80M.  It even has trouble tuning
up a 50 ohm dummy load on these bands. 

My normal setup is a 10W K2 with a KAT2, connected on the ANT 1 port to the
AUX RF port of the KAT100 (mounted in an EC2 case with the KPA100).  This is
internally connected to the KPA100.  The RF out from the KPA100 is then
connected to the RF IN on the KAT100.  ANT 1 is connected to a DX-CC and ANT
2 is connected to an 80M Carolina Windom. 

The first signs of trouble started when the SWR LEDs only lit
intermittently.  The ANTENNA and PWR RANGE LEDs lit and operated correctly. 
Gradually I stared seeing higher and higher SWR readings. 

In order to narrow down the issue, I removed the KPA100 from the setup by
connecting the KAT2 ANT 1 port directly to the KAT100 RF IN.  I disconnected
the power from the KPA100 and independently powered the KAT100.  I removed
the Windom from ANT 2 and connected a 50 ohm dummy load to see how the
tuning compared with the antenna and the dummy load.  On 80M the dummy load
gets 3:1 SWR with the DX-CC tuning up the same.  60M gets 2.3:1 for both. 
40M gets 1.2 for the dummy load and 3:1 for the DX-CC.  30M and up seem to
tune ok. 

I tried doing the troubleshooting steps in the manual, starting with ATU
INIT.  I scrolled through L0-L8 and C0-C8 and N1-N2 and the relays
functioned for each.  I tried doing the individual test for the inductors
and relays, but there was no change in SWR with multiple components, so
either I was doing it wrong, or the fault is bigger than a single component. 

I've tried to be as detailed as possible here, so any help is appreciated,
and if there are any suggestions or any other info required please let me
know.  I'd like to get this back on the air as its my only radio!




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Phil Wheeler]

Be sure to check all the cables or try changing 
them out one by one, Jeremy.


Phil W7OX

On 7/17/15 10:05 AM, JeremyJones wrote:

After many months of flawless operation, my KAT100 is starting to have
trouble tuning up, particularly on 40 and 80M.  It even has trouble tuning
up a 50 ohm dummy load on these bands.

My normal setup is a 10W K2 with a KAT2, connected on the ANT 1 port to the
AUX RF port of the KAT100 (mounted in an EC2 case with the KPA100).  This is
internally connected to the KPA100.  The RF out from the KPA100 is then
connected to the RF IN on the KAT100.  ANT 1 is connected to a DX-CC and ANT
2 is connected to an 80M Carolina Windom.

The first signs of trouble started when the SWR LEDs only lit
intermittently.  The ANTENNA and PWR RANGE LEDs lit and operated correctly.
Gradually I stared seeing higher and higher SWR readings.

In order to narrow down the issue, I removed the KPA100 from the setup by
connecting the KAT2 ANT 1 port directly to the KAT100 RF IN.  I disconnected
the power from the KPA100 and independently powered the KAT100.  I removed
the Windom from ANT 2 and connected a 50 ohm dummy load to see how the
tuning compared with the antenna and the dummy load.  On 80M the dummy load
gets 3:1 SWR with the DX-CC tuning up the same.  60M gets 2.3:1 for both.
40M gets 1.2 for the dummy load and 3:1 for the DX-CC.  30M and up seem to
tune ok.

I tried doing the troubleshooting steps in the manual, starting with ATU
INIT.  I scrolled through L0-L8 and C0-C8 and N1-N2 and the relays
functioned for each.  I tried doing the individual test for the inductors
and relays, but there was no change in SWR with multiple components, so
either I was doing it wrong, or the fault is bigger than a single component.

I've tried to be as detailed as possible here, so any help is appreciated,
and if there are any suggestions or any other info required please let me
know.  I'd like to get this back on the air as its my only radio!


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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Tuning Failure

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

You must remove the ribbon cable to the KPA100 to remove it from the 
path - I suggest physically removing it from the EC2 enclosure just to 
be safe.  The fact that you had the KPA100 partly in the path during 
your tests could create invalid observations.

Use a dummy load for testing rather than an antenna.

If you are getting funny SWR LED indications, the first suspect is D1 
and D2 in the KAT100.  Those are 1N5711 diodes, and if you have some in 
your parts supply, I would just replace them.  I know it is a 'bear' to 
get to the solder side of the board when mounted in the EC2 enclosure, 
so see if there is enough lead length above the board to break the 
diodes and solder new ones in their place.


You would get a better picture of the operation of the KAT100 wattmeter 
if you remove the KAT2 (just unplug it from the KIO2 AUX board).  Then 
connect the KAT100 control cable and connect the K2 lower panel BNC to 
the KAT100 RF in.
The KAT100 will then respond like the KAT2 normally does and in ATU CALP 
or CALS will show you the wattmeter readings - connect ANT1 to a dummy 
load for that test.  It is advisable to connect an inline wattmeter 
between the KAT100 and the dummy load.  If the internal wattmeter in the 
KAT100 is not functioning properly you will be able to calibrate it.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 7/17/2015 1:05 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

After many months of flawless operation, my KAT100 is starting to have
trouble tuning up, particularly on 40 and 80M.  It even has trouble tuning
up a 50 ohm dummy load on these bands.

My normal setup is a 10W K2 with a KAT2, connected on the ANT 1 port to the
AUX RF port of the KAT100 (mounted in an EC2 case with the KPA100).  This is
internally connected to the KPA100.  The RF out from the KPA100 is then
connected to the RF IN on the KAT100.  ANT 1 is connected to a DX-CC and ANT
2 is connected to an 80M Carolina Windom.

The first signs of trouble started when the SWR LEDs only lit
intermittently.  The ANTENNA and PWR RANGE LEDs lit and operated correctly.
Gradually I stared seeing higher and higher SWR readings.




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[Elecraft] KAT100

[KC6CNN]

Does anyone have a KAT100 original case. I had mine mounted in a E2 Case and
cant find what I did with the original kat100 case. I installed my kpa100
amp on my k2 and now want to put the kat100 back to original. 

Anyone with a kat100 case please contact me at kc6...@gmail.com

Thank you
Gerald Manthey
KC6CNN




-
KC6CNN - Gerald
K2 # 5486
K3 # 6254
KX3 # 757
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[Elecraft] KAT100 w/external PA's

[Hans Bonnesen]

The term “can easily handle from 200mW to 100 watts” suggests that even more 
than 100 watts is permissible.
Does that indicate that even 200 watts from a Palomar TX5300A could be handled 
by the KAT100 ?
OZ5RB, Hans
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 w/external PA's

[Don Wilhelm]

Hans,

The KAT100 probably can handle more than 100 watts.
BUT it needs the K2 to tell it to tune, report the power and SWR, 
control the correct relays when changing bands or antennas, etc.
In other words, it must connect to the control lines in the K2 AUX IO 
connector and communicate with the K2 MCU.  It is not a stand-alone tuner.


The KAT500 *can* be used as a standalone tuner.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 12/1/2014 2:16 PM, Hans Bonnesen wrote:

The term “can easily handle from 200mW to 100 watts” suggests that even more 
than 100 watts is permissible.
Does that indicate that even 200 watts from a Palomar TX5300A could be handled 
by the KAT100 ?
OZ5RB, Hans



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[Elecraft] Kat100

[Dave]

Static got the diodes in the k2 100watt amp. Could they also get the diodes in
the kat100. If the kat100 d1 I  d2 blow will the tuner still try to tune only
not arrive at a low swr?
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Re: [Elecraft] Kat100

[Don Wilhelm]

Yes, the KAt100will still try to tune.  The SWR it reports will be 
woefully inaccurate, and is likely a 'crazy' reading.  Check the diodes 
with an ohmmeter, or alternately measure the resistance between U5 pin 3 
and ground, and also U5 pin 5 and ground.  Both should measure between 
40k and 50k if the diodes are good and the forward and reverse pots are 
adjusted anywhere near correct.
Don't forget to check the nulling (or balance) of the capacitor and the 
calibration of the wattmeter for forward power and reverse power as 
instructed in the manual after replacing the diodes.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/5/2014 3:48 PM, d...@dpomeroy.com wrote:

Static got the diodes in the k2 100watt amp. Could they also get the diodes in
the kat100. If the kat100 d1 I  d2 blow will the tuner still try to tune only
not arrive at a low swr?
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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

How much power are you sending through that wattmeter?  If it is 20 
watts or more, it may just be that 30 mV is OK.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/28/2014 9:55 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

I've taken the watt meter out of the loop, and have the K2 set for 10W.
Double checked the windings and solder on T1, and it still won't go below
30mV.  I definitely have C31 at the low spot as the voltage climbs on either
side.  I still can't get anywhere the voltage needed at U5 pin 5 for the
power calibration.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote

Jeremy,

Tune the capacitor very slowly and use a non-metallic tool.  The null is
sharp and deep.
You must have a good 50 ohm dummy load connected.
You may want to take your external wattmeter out of line to do the
nulling.
The actual voltage will depend on the power level, at 5 watts it should
be less than 10 mV, but you should be able to get it below 15 or 20 mV
if the power is 10 watts.  If you are using 20 watts or more from the
KPA100, then your 30 mV is probably OK.

Ideally, the voltage should go to zero, but being practical, one may not
be able to adjust the capacitor in fine enough increments to achieve
that goal.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/28/2014 4:32 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

I just reread Dons post, and he says less than 10mV, so I guess I have
some
trouble shooting to do with that first,

Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[JeremyJones]

I'm only running 10W through it.

I've just gone through the complete instruction manual to ensure I haven't
missed anything.  Everything checks out.  I've just finished the SWR Bridge
Null test and am down to 0.018VDC.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
 Jeremy,
 
 How much power are you sending through that wattmeter?  If it is 20 
 watts or more, it may just be that 30 mV is OK.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR





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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[JeremyJones]

Correction, 0.018 was at 5W.  10W still gives 0.036VDC

Jeremy


JeremyJones wrote
 I'm only running 10W through it.
 
 I've just gone through the complete instruction manual to ensure I haven't
 missed anything.  Everything checks out.  I've just finished the SWR
 Bridge Null test and am down to 0.018VDC.
 
 Jeremy
 VA3ZTF





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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[JeremyJones]

Checked my dummy load with an MFJ-259 and it is 50 ohms resistive, no
capacitive.  Rechecked all soldering with a lighted magnifying glass and
cleaned up a couple of joints.  Rewound T1 just to be sure it wasn't shorted
in the windings.

Still the same results of 0.035VDC on pin 3 of U5.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF


Don wrote
 Jeremy,
 
 Check the soldering on all the relays, inductors and capacitors -
 particularly the relays.
 If the relays are not well soldered, there can be an inductor or capacitor
 in the path that will prevent you from getting a good null.
 Another thing that will prevent a null is an inductive or capacitive
 reactance in your dummy load.
 You might want to check that with an antenna analyzer to be certain it is
 a pure resistance.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR





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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[JeremyJones]

I was only able to get U5 pin3 down to 0.03VDC during the SWR Bridge Null
test.  Is that low enough?  The manual says 0 volts or close to it.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
 Jeremy,
 
 You did not mention it, so I have to ask - when connected as you 
 describe, did you first obtain a good null at U5 pin 3 (by adjusting 
 C31)?  That is a necessary first step.  If you did not get a voltage 
 measurement in the single digit millivolt range (less than 10 
 millivolts), then 'all bets are off' and you need to first resolve that 
 problem.





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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[JeremyJones]

I just reread Dons post, and he says less than 10mV, so I guess I have some
trouble shooting to do with that first,

Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

Tune the capacitor very slowly and use a non-metallic tool.  The null is 
sharp and deep.

You must have a good 50 ohm dummy load connected.
You may want to take your external wattmeter out of line to do the nulling.
The actual voltage will depend on the power level, at 5 watts it should 
be less than 10 mV, but you should be able to get it below 15 or 20 mV 
if the power is 10 watts.  If you are using 20 watts or more from the 
KPA100, then your 30 mV is probably OK.


Ideally, the voltage should go to zero, but being practical, one may not 
be able to adjust the capacitor in fine enough increments to achieve 
that goal.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/28/2014 4:32 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

I just reread Dons post, and he says less than 10mV, so I guess I have some
trouble shooting to do with that first,

Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[JeremyJones]

I've taken the watt meter out of the loop, and have the K2 set for 10W. 
Double checked the windings and solder on T1, and it still won't go below
30mV.  I definitely have C31 at the low spot as the voltage climbs on either
side.  I still can't get anywhere the voltage needed at U5 pin 5 for the
power calibration.

Jeremy
VA3ZTF


Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
 Jeremy,
 
 Tune the capacitor very slowly and use a non-metallic tool.  The null is 
 sharp and deep.
 You must have a good 50 ohm dummy load connected.
 You may want to take your external wattmeter out of line to do the
 nulling.
 The actual voltage will depend on the power level, at 5 watts it should 
 be less than 10 mV, but you should be able to get it below 15 or 20 mV 
 if the power is 10 watts.  If you are using 20 watts or more from the 
 KPA100, then your 30 mV is probably OK.
 
 Ideally, the voltage should go to zero, but being practical, one may not 
 be able to adjust the capacitor in fine enough increments to achieve 
 that goal.
 
 73,
 Don W3FPR
 
 On 2/28/2014 4:32 PM, JeremyJones wrote:
 I just reread Dons post, and he says less than 10mV, so I guess I have
 some
 trouble shooting to do with that first,

 Jeremy
 VA3ZTF



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[Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[JeremyJones]

I have just finished my KAT100, and am having an issue during the Power
Calibration of R3 and R4.  I am using a K2 with KAT2.  I have a cable
running from the Ant 1 jack of the KAT2 to the Ant 1 jack of the KAT100. 
The KAT100 RF In jack is connected to the Transmitter jack of the power
sensor of my W2.  The Load jack of the W2 sensor is connected to a 250W, 50
ohm dummy load.  The K2 is set for 10W.  The W2 is inline only to check the
actual power out, due to the strange readings I was getting.  

When I hit TUNE, I can only get a voltage range of 0.0 to 0.07 VDC at U5 pin
5 while adjusting R4.  The table in the manual indicates that I need to set
R4 so that I get 1.8V at U5 pin 5.

I have double checked the orientation of the diodes, everything checkout in
the previous tests.  T4 has the correct windings, and continuity between
pads 1 and 4 is good.  

What else should I be looking at.

Thanks for any help,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF



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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 Power Calibration Problem

[Don Wilhelm]

Jeremy,

You did not mention it, so I have to ask - when connected as you 
describe, did you first obtain a good null at U5 pin 3 (by adjusting 
C31)?  That is a necessary first step.  If you did not get a voltage 
measurement in the single digit millivolt range (less than 10 
millivolts), then 'all bets are off' and you need to first resolve that 
problem.


Be certain to follow the manual instructions - no power to the KAT100 
and no control cable attached.


Once you have achieved that (nulling) balance point, you can proceed to 
the next step.  While observing the actual power output, set the K2 
power for 10 watts as observed on your external wattmeter.
Once you have established that power level, then adjust R4 to produce 
1.8 volts on U5 pin 5.


After obtaining that adjustment, reverse the RF IN and ANT1 connections 
and adjust R3 (with the external wattmeter reading 10 watts) for 1.8 
volts on U5 pin 3.


Then do 'the math' as indicated in the manual to further adjust R4. 
After that 'job done'.


If you fail to find a balance point on C31, that problem must be 
resolved before continuing with anything else (unless you want to do it 
over and over again).  Should you not obtain a good null, investigate 
the winding of T1.  It must be wound *exactly* as indicated by the 
illustration in the manual including the direction of the turns.  If the 
direction of the turns is reversed, the alignment voltages will be 
reversed - hence your low voltage at U5 pin 5.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/27/2014 8:11 PM, JeremyJones wrote:

I have just finished my KAT100, and am having an issue during the Power
Calibration of R3 and R4.  I am using a K2 with KAT2.  I have a cable
running from the Ant 1 jack of the KAT2 to the Ant 1 jack of the KAT100.
The KAT100 RF In jack is connected to the Transmitter jack of the power
sensor of my W2.  The Load jack of the W2 sensor is connected to a 250W, 50
ohm dummy load.  The K2 is set for 10W.  The W2 is inline only to check the
actual power out, due to the strange readings I was getting.

When I hit TUNE, I can only get a voltage range of 0.0 to 0.07 VDC at U5 pin
5 while adjusting R4.  The table in the manual indicates that I need to set
R4 so that I get 1.8V at U5 pin 5.

I have double checked the orientation of the diodes, everything checkout in
the previous tests.  T4 has the correct windings, and continuity between
pads 1 and 4 is good.

What else should I be looking at.




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Re: [Elecraft] KAT100 question

[Don Wilhelm]

Ed,

Neither the KAT2 nor the KAT100 have provisions for manually selecting 
an L-C combination.  The ALT position of the KAT2 does allow the 
automatic search for a match in a bit more detail than the normal 
algorithm.  I believe the tuning algorithm for the 'normal' KAT100 may 
be close to the ALT algorithm for the KAT2.


Only the KXAT1 allows you to set L-C combinations manually, and that is 
used the reception on the eneral coverage bands, which allows you to 
manually tune on frequencies where you cannot transmit.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 11/12/2013 10:58 PM, Eddy wrote:

Like so many auto antenna tuners out there (MFJ, LDGetc...), many can be put in the 
manual mode and stepped through different settings.I'm running the K2 KAT100 tuner 
and really like the unit. So, is there a technique I can use to manually step through 
various L/C setting for those hard to tune antennas - sometimes the KAT!00 can't find a really good 
match for my various antennas?

I noticed the K2 KAT2 tuner has an ALT mode for this purpose, but I couldn't find 
anything mentioned about an ALT mode for the KAT100?




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[Elecraft] KAT100 question

[Eddy]

Like so many auto antenna tuners out there (MFJ, LDGetc...), many can be 
put in the manual mode and stepped through different settings.I'm running 
the K2 KAT100 tuner and really like the unit. So, is there a technique I can 
use to manually step through various L/C setting for those hard to tune 
antennas - sometimes the KAT!00 can't find a really good match for my various 
antennas?

I noticed the K2 KAT2 tuner has an ALT mode for this purpose, but I couldn't 
find anything mentioned about an ALT mode for the KAT100?

Thanks all,

73

ed
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[Elecraft] Kat100

[Dave Pomeroy]

I just purchased a K2/100 with ant tuner.  The tuner won't tune above 10 
watts.  Works great when power is turned down to 10 watts or less.  
Anyone with an idea?

Dave
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Re: [Elecraft] Kat100

[Don Wilhelm]

Dave,

A little more information please.
Disconnect the KAT100 and connect the KPA100 into a dummy load - put an 
external wattmeter between the KPA100 and the dummy load.  Set the K2 
power at 50 watts.

Then do a TUNE - what is the power read on the external wattmeter.

If my guess is correct, it will be in excess of 100 watts which means 
diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100 have been damaged and you have no power 
level control.
If the K2/KPA100 power control is working properly, the power level in 
TUNE will be close to 20 watts.


Regardless of whether the KAT100 has a problem or not, please make this 
check just to be certain the K2 and the KPA100 are working OK.


73,
Don W3FPR

On 10/1/2013 10:22 AM, Dave Pomeroy wrote:
I just purchased a K2/100 with ant tuner.  The tuner won't tune above 
10 watts.  Works great when power is turned down to 10 watts or less.  
Anyone with an idea?

Dave


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[Elecraft] [KAT100] Can I use KAT100 with different rig to K2?

[Giuliano]

I have several RTX not only ELECRAFT, can I use KAT100 with any RTX or 
only works for K2?

73
Giuliano I0CG
K1, K3
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Re: [Elecraft] [KAT100] Can I use KAT100 with different rig to K2?

[Harlan]

The KAT100 will only work with the K2. It gets its control signals via the K2 
aux bus...
Harlan
NC3C

Sent from my Verizon Wireless 4G LTE DROID

Giuliano giulian...@virgilio.it wrote:

I have several RTX not only ELECRAFT, can I use KAT100 with any RTX or 
only works for K2?
73
Giuliano I0CG
K1, K3
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