Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-26 Thread Chip Stratton
I like the Navy flameproof 26003 for portable straight key operation.
Like the J38 it is meant to be screwed down, but I mounted mine on a
rectangle of Lexan, which gives me a fairly light and stable key with
contacts shielded from easy contamination. It also appears to be a
fairly rugged design. You can still get New Old Stock from J. Bunnell
for about $80, and used ones for less elsewhere and on ebay. It has a
nice feel, very similar to the Junkers key I use at home. One key I
don't like is the Chinese army K4.

Chip
AE5KA
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions - info on N0SA paddles

2012-06-26 Thread Greg
I hope he gets it.  I have an SP2 from N0SA and love it.

73
Greg
AB7R


On 6/26/12, Rick Johnson  wrote:
>
>
> I sent Larry an email saying I would like to order the SP2 paddle
> His response:
>
>
> Rick
>  Thank you for your interest in my paddles.
> I believe my last SP paddle has just been sold. I am waiting to hear back
> from the person about the sale.
> If he decides not to buy then you can have it.
>  I am in the process of retiring so I am selling all the paddles I already
> have built. After that I will continue to build on a very limited basis and
> just
> list what I have for sale. No more waiting list and no custom orders. I will
>
> just build for fun.
> 73's and I will let you know what happens with the SP.
> Larry Naumann
> n0sa
>
> So I guess the paddles will become difficult to get ahold of now.
>
> 73,
> Rick W3BI
>
>
>> Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 06:23:00 -0500
>> From: wrmoor...@gmail.com
>> To: phys...@mac.com
>> CC: ed.g...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions
>>
>> Phil,
>>
>> On the SP1/2, there is only one lever, and both finger pieces are
>> attached to it.  The lever and the two finger pieces move as one.
>>
>> 73,
>> Randy, KS4L
>>
>> On 6/26/2012 12:12 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
>> > So, a question...
>> >
>> > With the dual levers of a single lever (non-iambic) SP2 paddle, when you
>> > press one paddle, does the opposite paddle move in concert or is it
>> > actually disconnected from the lever action of the other paddle.  In
>> > other words, do the paddles swing like an old Vibroplex Original (which
>> > is also sitting on my desk) or like an iambic although without iambic
>> > keying.
>> >
>> > phil, K7PEH
>> >
>> >
>> > On Jun 25, 2012, at 6:15 PM, Randy Moore wrote:
>> >
>> >> I have an N0SA SP1, predecessor to the current SP2, both single lever
>> >> paddles. I love the way it operates and looks. Excellent workmanship!
>> >> Its really pretty small. Not sure what's different between my SP1 and
>> >> the newer SP2.  These single lever paddles won't do iambic, which I
>> >> never could master. The two finger pieces give good spacing for thumb
>> >> and forefinger, but they are attached to the same lever.
>> >>
>> >> The paddle was a gift from my YF on my 50th anniversary as a ham :-)
>> >>
>> >> 73,
>> >> Randy, KS4L
>> >>
>> >>
>> >>
>> >> On Jun 25, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
>> >>
>> >>> These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on
>> >>> understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it
>> >>> is not an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever
>> >>> version appears to have two levers but guessing that these do not
>> >>> offer the Squeeze feature (which by the way I have never really
>> >>> learned to use).
>> >>>
>> >>> phil, K7PEH
>> >>>
>> >>>
>> >>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ed G wrote:
>> >>>
>> >>>> Check out Larry's paddles at:
>> >>>> http://n0sa.com/
>> >>>> Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real
>> >>>> bargain
>> >>>> for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version
>> >>>> available.
>> >>>> --Ed--
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>>
>> >>>> __
>> >>>> Elecraft mailing list
>> >>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> >>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> >>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>> >>>>
>> >>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> >>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> >>>
>> >>> __
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>> >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>> >>>
>> >>> This list 

Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions - info on N0SA paddles

2012-06-26 Thread Rick Johnson


I sent Larry an email saying I would like to order the SP2 paddle
His response:


Rick
 Thank you for your interest in my paddles.
I believe my last SP paddle has just been sold. I am waiting to hear back 
from the person about the sale.
If he decides not to buy then you can have it.
 I am in the process of retiring so I am selling all the paddles I already 
have built. After that I will continue to build on a very limited basis and 
just 
list what I have for sale. No more waiting list and no custom orders. I will 
just build for fun.
73's and I will let you know what happens with the SP.
Larry Naumann
n0sa

So I guess the paddles will become difficult to get ahold of now.

73,
Rick W3BI


> Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 06:23:00 -0500
> From: wrmoor...@gmail.com
> To: phys...@mac.com
> CC: ed.g...@comcast.net; elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions
> 
> Phil,
> 
> On the SP1/2, there is only one lever, and both finger pieces are 
> attached to it.  The lever and the two finger pieces move as one.
> 
> 73,
> Randy, KS4L
> 
> On 6/26/2012 12:12 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
> > So, a question...
> >
> > With the dual levers of a single lever (non-iambic) SP2 paddle, when you 
> > press one paddle, does the opposite paddle move in concert or is it 
> > actually disconnected from the lever action of the other paddle.  In other 
> > words, do the paddles swing like an old Vibroplex Original (which is also 
> > sitting on my desk) or like an iambic although without iambic keying.
> >
> > phil, K7PEH
> >
> >
> > On Jun 25, 2012, at 6:15 PM, Randy Moore wrote:
> >
> >> I have an N0SA SP1, predecessor to the current SP2, both single lever 
> >> paddles. I love the way it operates and looks. Excellent workmanship! Its 
> >> really pretty small. Not sure what's different between my SP1 and the 
> >> newer SP2.  These single lever paddles won't do iambic, which I never 
> >> could master. The two finger pieces give good spacing for thumb and 
> >> forefinger, but they are attached to the same lever.
> >>
> >> The paddle was a gift from my YF on my 50th anniversary as a ham :-)
> >>
> >> 73,
> >> Randy, KS4L
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> On Jun 25, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> >>
> >>> These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on 
> >>> understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it is 
> >>> not an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever 
> >>> version appears to have two levers but guessing that these do not offer 
> >>> the Squeeze feature (which by the way I have never really learned to use).
> >>>
> >>> phil, K7PEH
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ed G wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Check out Larry's paddles at:
> >>>> http://n0sa.com/
> >>>> Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real 
> >>>> bargain
> >>>> for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version 
> >>>> available.
> >>>> --Ed--
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> __
> >>>> Elecraft mailing list
> >>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >>>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>>>
> >>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >>>
> >>> __
> >>> Elecraft mailing list
> >>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >>> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
> >>>
> >>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >
> >
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-26 Thread Michael Babineau
Bill :

It sounds like the KXPD3 could be used as a "cootie key" (aka Sideswiper) if 
both left and right paddles are active in "HAND" mode.
Cool ! 

Michael VE3WMB

P.S. In "HAND" mode on the KX1/K1  I think that only one side of the paddle is 
active. 

On 2012-06-26, at 10:21 AM, Bill Gerth wrote:

> Ron,
> 
> I don't know about the K3, but my KX3 has a "HAND" mode which allows the 
> KXPD3 paddles to function as a straight key.  Either paddle works as a 
> straight key.  I use it when folks want my SKCC number for a straight key QSO.
> 
> 73,
> 
> W4RK - Bill Gerth
> Jefferson City, MO
> billge...@embarqmail.com
> 
> 

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-26 Thread Bill Gerth
Ron,

I don't know about the K3, but my KX3 has a "HAND" mode which allows  
the KXPD3 paddles to function as a straight key.  Either paddle works  
as a straight key.  I use it when folks want my SKCC number for a  
straight key QSO.

73,

W4RK - Bill Gerth
Jefferson City, MO
billge...@embarqmail.com




On Jun 26, 2012, at 9:02 AM, Michael Babineau wrote:

> Ron AC7AC wrote :
>
>> My *only* complaint about the KX1 paddles is the same complaint I  
>> have about
>> every Elecraft rig - there's no keyer mode that lets me make my own  
>> dashes.
>> I would greatly enjoy a keyer mode that spits out dits  
>> automatically with
>> one paddle and then allows me to make dashes with the other paddle  
>> manually.
>> Right now, if I want to go portable with any of the rigs I must  
>> either haul
>> a straight key with me (bugs don't travel well) or live with the  
>> keyer.
>
> Ron :
>
> It sounds like what you need is a Palm Paddle and the integrated  
> Code Cube Keyer.
> The Code Cube is a custom version of the Jackson Harbour PK4 keyer  
> and it does have
> a "Bug" mode. The combination of the two would give you a very  
> compact "eBug" that
> should solve your problem.
>
> http://www.mtechnologies.com/palm/cc.htm
>
> The code cube manual is here :
>
> http://www.mtechnologies.com/palm/cc-83p_e.pdf
>
> If you check out Menu #4 you'll see that there is a "Bug Mode".
> I have one and I have tried Bug mode and it works fine.
>
> Michael VE3WMB
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-26 Thread Michael Babineau
Ron AC7AC wrote : 

>My *only* complaint about the KX1 paddles is the same complaint I have about
>every Elecraft rig - there's no keyer mode that lets me make my own dashes.
>I would greatly enjoy a keyer mode that spits out dits automatically with
>one paddle and then allows me to make dashes with the other paddle manually.
>Right now, if I want to go portable with any of the rigs I must either haul
>a straight key with me (bugs don't travel well) or live with the keyer. 

Ron : 

It sounds like what you need is a Palm Paddle and the integrated Code Cube 
Keyer.
The Code Cube is a custom version of the Jackson Harbour PK4 keyer and it does 
have
a "Bug" mode. The combination of the two would give you a very compact "eBug" 
that
should solve your problem. 

http://www.mtechnologies.com/palm/cc.htm

The code cube manual is here :

http://www.mtechnologies.com/palm/cc-83p_e.pdf

If you check out Menu #4 you'll see that there is a "Bug Mode". 
I have one and I have tried Bug mode and it works fine. 

Michael VE3WMB 


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-26 Thread Phil & Debbie Salas
I've had a lot of keys in my 48 years of hamming - and I've kept them all 
(they are on display in my living room!).  For portable use, I've used a 
Palm Paddle for several years.  Very nice, light, inexpensive and works very 
well.  I just replaced it with a Begali Traveller Light.  The Begali is 
excellant, but the trade-off is cost, weight and size.  To me the trade-off 
is worth it.  My home key is a Begali Sculpture.

Phil - AD5X 

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-26 Thread Randy Moore
Phil,

On the SP1/2, there is only one lever, and both finger pieces are 
attached to it.  The lever and the two finger pieces move as one.

73,
Randy, KS4L

On 6/26/2012 12:12 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:
> So, a question...
>
> With the dual levers of a single lever (non-iambic) SP2 paddle, when you 
> press one paddle, does the opposite paddle move in concert or is it actually 
> disconnected from the lever action of the other paddle.  In other words, do 
> the paddles swing like an old Vibroplex Original (which is also sitting on my 
> desk) or like an iambic although without iambic keying.
>
> phil, K7PEH
>
>
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 6:15 PM, Randy Moore wrote:
>
>> I have an N0SA SP1, predecessor to the current SP2, both single lever 
>> paddles. I love the way it operates and looks. Excellent workmanship! Its 
>> really pretty small. Not sure what's different between my SP1 and the newer 
>> SP2.  These single lever paddles won't do iambic, which I never could 
>> master. The two finger pieces give good spacing for thumb and forefinger, 
>> but they are attached to the same lever.
>>
>> The paddle was a gift from my YF on my 50th anniversary as a ham :-)
>>
>> 73,
>> Randy, KS4L
>>
>>
>>
>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
>>
>>> These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on 
>>> understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it is 
>>> not an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever version 
>>> appears to have two levers but guessing that these do not offer the Squeeze 
>>> feature (which by the way I have never really learned to use).
>>>
>>> phil, K7PEH
>>>
>>>
>>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ed G wrote:
>>>
 Check out Larry's paddles at:
 http://n0sa.com/
 Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real bargain
 for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version available.
 --Ed--



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>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-26 Thread WILLIS COOKE
The two levers are independent on an iambic paddle so that you can close either 
contact or both at one time by squeezing.  A Bug, such as the Original has a 
single lever that allows you to close either contact, but not both at the same 
time.  With an iambic keyer if you close both contacts it will alternate dits 
and dahs with the first element determined by which contact closes first.  
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


- Original Message -
From: Phil Hystad 
To: Randy Moore 
Cc: Ed G ; "elecraft@mailman.qth.net" 

Sent: Tuesday, June 26, 2012 12:12 AM
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

So, a question...

With the dual levers of a single lever (non-iambic) SP2 paddle, when you press 
one paddle, does the opposite paddle move in concert or is it actually 
disconnected from the lever action of the other paddle.  In other words, do the 
paddles swing like an old Vibroplex Original (which is also sitting on my desk) 
or like an iambic although without iambic keying.

phil, K7PEH


On Jun 25, 2012, at 6:15 PM, Randy Moore wrote:

> I have an N0SA SP1, predecessor to the current SP2, both single lever 
> paddles. I love the way it operates and looks. Excellent workmanship! Its 
> really pretty small. Not sure what's different between my SP1 and the newer 
> SP2.  These single lever paddles won't do iambic, which I never could master. 
> The two finger pieces give good spacing for thumb and forefinger, but they 
> are attached to the same lever. 
> 
> The paddle was a gift from my YF on my 50th anniversary as a ham :-)
> 
> 73,
> Randy, KS4L
> 
> 
> 
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
>> These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on 
>> understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it is 
>> not an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever version 
>> appears to have two levers but guessing that these do not offer the Squeeze 
>> feature (which by the way I have never really learned to use).
>> 
>> phil, K7PEH
>> 
>> 
>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ed G wrote:
>> 
>>> Check out Larry's paddles at:
>>> http://n0sa.com/
>>> Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real bargain
>>> for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version available. 
>>> --Ed--
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-25 Thread Phil Hystad
So, a question...

With the dual levers of a single lever (non-iambic) SP2 paddle, when you press 
one paddle, does the opposite paddle move in concert or is it actually 
disconnected from the lever action of the other paddle.  In other words, do the 
paddles swing like an old Vibroplex Original (which is also sitting on my desk) 
or like an iambic although without iambic keying.

phil, K7PEH


On Jun 25, 2012, at 6:15 PM, Randy Moore wrote:

> I have an N0SA SP1, predecessor to the current SP2, both single lever 
> paddles. I love the way it operates and looks. Excellent workmanship! Its 
> really pretty small. Not sure what's different between my SP1 and the newer 
> SP2.  These single lever paddles won't do iambic, which I never could master. 
> The two finger pieces give good spacing for thumb and forefinger, but they 
> are attached to the same lever. 
> 
> The paddle was a gift from my YF on my 50th anniversary as a ham :-)
> 
> 73,
> Randy, KS4L
> 
> 
> 
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
>> These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on 
>> understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it is 
>> not an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever version 
>> appears to have two levers but guessing that these do not offer the Squeeze 
>> feature (which by the way I have never really learned to use).
>> 
>> phil, K7PEH
>> 
>> 
>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ed G wrote:
>> 
>>> Check out Larry's paddles at:
>>> http://n0sa.com/
>>> Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real bargain
>>> for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version available. 
>>> --Ed--
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>> __
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-25 Thread Phil Hystad
I have a K8RA paddle.  In fact it was my first paddle and the one that I 
learned "paddle" on.  But, it has taken a back seat after I got my Begali.  I 
have it connected to my backup rig, an Icom 756 Pro III, so whenever I fire 
that up and go CW I am using the K8RA.  The key is engineered with quality but 
it misses the fine precision design and engineering of the Begali.  But, it is 
also a keeper.  I am seriously thinking of taking another plunge towards that 
N0SA key after I learn a little bit more about it.  What is life except for 
that period of time when you collect toys like finely designed and engineered 
keys.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jun 25, 2012, at 6:35 PM, Greg wrote:

> I'm surprised no one has mentioned the K8RA paddles...beautiful work and
> great price!  I also own a ZN-SLR.  I enjoy them both as well as two old
> chrome plated "EL Keys" that still are really nice but can't compete with
> either of the aforementioned paddles.  73 de Greg-N4CC
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions... Magnets or springs

2012-06-25 Thread WILLIS COOKE
I think how the key is made is more important than springs or magnets.  My key 
at home is a Hex Key (like the Elecraft Key but with a Bencher label) and I 
used a Kent magnet key at field day.  They have a similar feel.  I had a 
Bencher with a spring that I dropped when moving and it broke into so many 
parts that I threw it away rather than trying to put Humpty Dumpty together 
again.  I really prefer a straight key with a spring or a bug with a lot of 
springs.
 
Willis 'Cookie' Cooke 
K5EWJ & Trustee N5BPS, USS Cavalla, USS Stewart


- Original Message -
From: Fred Townsend 
To: Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Cc: 
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 9:34 PM
Subject: [Elecraft]  CW Key Suggestions... Magnets or springs



I have been following this thread with much interest but I have not seen a
mention of magnets or springs. Springs may weaken with time but then again I
believe magnets can degrade with time as well. Within limits, I would expect
springs to be linear but magnets would be piecewise linear too. What is the
wisdom of the fists?

Fred, AE6QL 

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Dale Putnam
I have a Shurr with stiff and longer finger pieces, and it compare well to any 
of the other paddles I have. This was one of the paddles that was being 
completed, when Mr. Shurr passed on. 
Have a great day, 
Dale - WC7S

-Original Message-
From: kevinr 
Date: Tue, 26 Jun 2012 03:33:59 
To: 
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?


I grew up with an attic full of ARC 5s.  My dad was the radar/radioman 
on B-24s and the radioman on B-17s so he kept them all in fine shape.  
When I opened one I found perfect solder joints with each resistor lined 
up EXACTLY with the next one.  Each was a piece of art which I admired.

As far as paddles?  I find I use my Schurr Profi very little.  The 
Begali Simplex is so much nicer.  If the Profi had stiff finger pieces I 
would use it much more.
    Kevin.  KD5ONS



On 6/25/2012 7:53 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:
> Don wrote:
>
>> I eventually acquired a BC-348 receiver that gave me all ham
>> band coverage plusa lot of extra frequencies.
> At least, all ham bands that could be found within the 200 to
> 600 kHz and 1500 to 18100 kHz coverage of the BC-348 (aka
> AN/ARR-11).  This was the best military MF/HF aircraft receiver
> in the world from 1936 to a few years post-WWII.
>
> I have ten of the various models of the BC-348 in original
> military (un-ham hacked) condition.  My BC-348-P goes
> with my BC-375-E transmitter to make the SCR-287-A
> MF/HF aircraft radio set.  My BC-348-R goes with my
> T-47A/ART-13 transmitter to make the AN/ARC-8 MF/HF
> aircraft radio set.  This last combo was still in
> service on some older USAF aircraft as late as 1971!
>
> I doubt *many* Elecrafters remember these sets, but vintage
> military gear, always in its original military configuration,
> still resides at KK5F.  One can't as easily appreciate the
> advances made with modern gear like the KX3 without knowing
> some of the past.
>
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions... Magnets or springs

2012-06-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
When I'm not using my J-38 or Speed-X bug, I use a pair of original Scotia
paddles that I picked up at a Club meeting auction years ago.

They use magnets, not springs so the feel is reversed compared to a spring
loaded paddle. The magnet pulls the strongest when the key is at rest, and
that resistance decreases rapidly (according to the square of the distance)
as the paddle is moved toward contact closure. That is, of course, just the
opposite of a spring whose resistance typically increases as it is
compressed. 

The action of the Scotia paddles is very, very nice, better, I think, than
my original "Ham Key" spring loaded paddles that I built into my first
homebrew Accukeyer in the early 1970's. 

Each magnet on the Scotia paddles is adjustable so one can set the amount of
"resistance" just like changing the spring tension. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

I have been following this thread with much interest but I have not seen a
mention of magnets or springs. Springs may weaken with time but then again I
believe magnets can degrade with time as well. Within limits, I would expect
springs to be linear but magnets would be piecewise linear too. What is the
wisdom of the fists?

Fred, AE6QL 


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread kevinr
I grew up with an attic full of ARC 5s.  My dad was the radar/radioman 
on B-24s and the radioman on B-17s so he kept them all in fine shape.  
When I opened one I found perfect solder joints with each resistor lined 
up EXACTLY with the next one.  Each was a piece of art which I admired.

As far as paddles?  I find I use my Schurr Profi very little.  The 
Begali Simplex is so much nicer.  If the Profi had stiff finger pieces I 
would use it much more.
Kevin.  KD5ONS



On 6/25/2012 7:53 PM, Mike Morrow wrote:
> Don wrote:
>
>> I eventually acquired a BC-348 receiver that gave me all ham
>> band coverage plusa lot of extra frequencies.
> At least, all ham bands that could be found within the 200 to
> 600 kHz and 1500 to 18100 kHz coverage of the BC-348 (aka
> AN/ARR-11).  This was the best military MF/HF aircraft receiver
> in the world from 1936 to a few years post-WWII.
>
> I have ten of the various models of the BC-348 in original
> military (un-ham hacked) condition.  My BC-348-P goes
> with my BC-375-E transmitter to make the SCR-287-A
> MF/HF aircraft radio set.  My BC-348-R goes with my
> T-47A/ART-13 transmitter to make the AN/ARC-8 MF/HF
> aircraft radio set.  This last combo was still in
> service on some older USAF aircraft as late as 1971!
>
> I doubt *many* Elecrafters remember these sets, but vintage
> military gear, always in its original military configuration,
> still resides at KK5F.  One can't as easily appreciate the
> advances made with modern gear like the KX3 without knowing
> some of the past.
>
> 73,
> Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Mike Morrow
Don wrote:

> I eventually acquired a BC-348 receiver that gave me all ham
> band coverage plusa lot of extra frequencies.

At least, all ham bands that could be found within the 200 to
600 kHz and 1500 to 18100 kHz coverage of the BC-348 (aka
AN/ARR-11).  This was the best military MF/HF aircraft receiver
in the world from 1936 to a few years post-WWII.

I have ten of the various models of the BC-348 in original
military (un-ham hacked) condition.  My BC-348-P goes
with my BC-375-E transmitter to make the SCR-287-A
MF/HF aircraft radio set.  My BC-348-R goes with my
T-47A/ART-13 transmitter to make the AN/ARC-8 MF/HF
aircraft radio set.  This last combo was still in
service on some older USAF aircraft as late as 1971!

I doubt *many* Elecrafters remember these sets, but vintage
military gear, always in its original military configuration,
still resides at KK5F.  One can't as easily appreciate the
advances made with modern gear like the KX3 without knowing
some of the past.

73,
Mike / KK5F
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions... Magnets or springs

2012-06-25 Thread Tony Estep
On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 9:34 PM, Fred Townsend wrote:

> ...magnets or springs...?


Ya know, Fred, it seems as if magnets ought to be the preferred choice.
However, I have a Schurr Profi that uses springs, and the action is IMHO
absolutely perfect, the best of the many keys I've ever used. OTOH, I also
have an old Vibroplex paddle that uses magnets, and whatever advantage they
may have is vitiated by generally cheesy construction, including stamped
parts.

I think the determining factor is really frictionless bearings and nicely
machined parts that fit right. The Begali, Schurr, and numerous other keys
fit this description. Of course, they cost a lot, sort of like a fly reel
with only 6 moving parts that costs 10x as much as a good mass-produced
spinning reel.

Tony KT0NY


-- 
http://www.isb.edu/faculty/facultydir.aspx?ddlFaculty=352
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-25 Thread stan levandowski
I do not own one of these products but perhaps I can help with the 
terminology.

An iambic paddle *always* has two levers, each with a separate 
fingerpiece.  A non-iambic paddle *always* has a single lever but *may* 
sport a dual fingerpiece to increase the spacing between the thumb and 
forefinger.  This goes to personal style and usually means the buyer 
asked for such a modification (or did it him/herself).

An iambic paddle permits "squeeze" keying -or- the Op can choose to send 
non-iambic code with it.  A non-iambic (i.e. "single lever") paddle can 
*never* send iambic code.

Some Ops believe that sending non-iambic code with an iambic paddle 
leads to more errors because there are two separate contact levers 
involved; a non-iambic paddle eliminates one entire lever and its 
corresponding contacts.

Ops who were brought up on semi-automatic keys ("bugs") - and who wish 
to maintain their "bug fist"- generally prefer single lever paddles and 
avoid making the transition to squeeze keying.  Of course, this is a 
personal preference and there are Ops who are very capable of switching 
between the various keying styles.

The art of CW - becoming proficient, appreciating its history, 
understanding its development, building a collection - is a wonderful 
subhobby within amateur radio.

Selecting a paddle (or straight key or bug) is very personal "project". 
While it's certainly wise to ask questions, read reviews, and peruse the 
marketing information, in the end the buyer is the only one who will 
know when he or she has found "a winnner."

I have a modest inventory of the "best" keys for "me" and it took me 
quite awhile to get there but the journey was an interesting and 
enlightening experience all the way.

Never be shy about working with a manufacturer if you feel you need 
something beyond what the manufacturer offers.  For example, I once 
asked to have an extra heavy base of specific dimension added to an 
already substantial base to make the key weigh an astounding number of 
pounds.  In another instance, I wanted the fingerpiece style from one 
part of the product line to be mounted on a key from another part of the 
line.  in a third instance, I felt the supplied carbon fiber fingerpiece 
was too thin and asked to have it doubled up.  All these requests were 
filled with no problem.  In fact, the manufacturer who doubled up my 
carbon fiber fingerpiece thought it was such a good idea that he made it 
standard.

Another suggestion is to avoid spending extra money to buy a nameplate 
or call sign plate.  If you later decide you want to sell your key in 
order to buy something else, that personalized  plate, and the holes 
that were drilled in the key to mount it, might not meet with a buyer's 
approval.

One line of reasoning says that being a good CW Op really has nothing to 
do with the brand names on our keys and paddles, or how much they cost. 
On a certain level that is a true statement.

But there *is* great satisfaction in owning and operating high quality, 
well-engineered instruments.  Isn't that why we buy Elecraft radios?

73, Stan WB2LQF
www.wb2lqf.com


On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 8:38 PM, Phil Hystad wrote:

> These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on 
> understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it 
> is not an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever 
> version appears to have two levers but guessing that these do not 
> offer the Squeeze feature (which by the way I have never really 
> learned to use).
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-25 Thread Greg
I'm surprised no one has mentioned the K8RA paddles...beautiful work and
great price!  I also own a ZN-SLR.  I enjoy them both as well as two old
chrome plated "EL Keys" that still are really nice but can't compete with
either of the aforementioned paddles.  73 de Greg-N4CC
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-25 Thread Randy Moore
I have an N0SA SP1, predecessor to the current SP2, both single lever paddles. 
I love the way it operates and looks. Excellent workmanship! Its really pretty 
small. Not sure what's different between my SP1 and the newer SP2.  These 
single lever paddles won't do iambic, which I never could master. The two 
finger pieces give good spacing for thumb and forefinger, but they are attached 
to the same lever. 

The paddle was a gift from my YF on my 50th anniversary as a ham :-)

73,
Randy, KS4L



On Jun 25, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Phil Hystad  wrote:

> These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on 
> understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it is not 
> an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever version 
> appears to have two levers but guessing that these do not offer the Squeeze 
> feature (which by the way I have never really learned to use).
> 
> phil, K7PEH
> 
> 
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ed G wrote:
> 
>> Check out Larry's paddles at:
>> http://n0sa.com/
>> Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real bargain
>> for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version available. 
>> --Ed--
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> __
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-25 Thread Phil Hystad
These look nice -- does anyone here own one?  I am probably weak on 
understanding the terminology though.  Does single-lever imply that it is not 
an iambic squeeze type paddle.  I noticed that the single-lever version appears 
to have two levers but guessing that these do not offer the Squeeze feature 
(which by the way I have never really learned to use).

phil, K7PEH


On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:00 PM, Ed G wrote:

> Check out Larry's paddles at:
> http://n0sa.com/
> Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real bargain
> for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version available. 
> --Ed--
> 
> 
> 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
OK, so we are swapping old stories.  I walked down the streets of 
Cleveland, Ohio from Case Institute of Technology to the surplus store 
somewhere near the 200 block of Carnegie Ave. to the local surplus 
emporium.  I was a student at Case Institute of Technology at the time.  
I bought a straight key (J-38) and an ARC-5 receiver and transmitter.  
With that gear plus a few mods, I was able to string a wire out of my 
dorm room window and make some contacts. Yes, that was back in the 1959 
time frame when a J38 key could be purchased for $1.50 and the ARC-5 
transmitters and receivers were selling for $5 to $10.

I eventually acquired a BC-348 receiver that gave me all ham band 
coverage plusa lot of extra frequencies. When I moved into the 
fraternity house, they were much more receptive to me putting up 
antennas.  The antenna there was a Windom ( compare to other OCF 
antennas) that suffered from many "RF-in-the-shack" problems.  I recall 
completing my 4-65A transmitter during that time frame - CW was great, 
but I did a lot with grid modulation because I could not afford the big 
modulation transformers required for plate modulation.

73,,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2012 7:26 PM, Joe K2UF wrote:
> My J-38 also came from Chicago in 1954 (still have it!!).  Allied radio.  I
> would order parts from them about 2 to 3 times a month.  Usually less than
> $5.00 per order.  Paper boys did not make much back then.
>
> 73  Joe K2UF
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Joe K2UF
My J-38 also came from Chicago in 1954 (still have it!!).  Allied radio.  I
would order parts from them about 2 to 3 times a month.  Usually less than
$5.00 per order.  Paper boys did not make much back then.

73  Joe K2UF

No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of David Bunte
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 6:48 PM
To: Jim Lowman
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

Gee, and I can remember in about 1958 riding the train from the 'burbs into
Chicago for about $ .50, walking down to the surplus store, and buying new,
in the box J-38s for $ 1.95 each.  They had hundreds, but short-sighted
teenager that I was, I only bought what I thought I needed at the time.

-Dave-
K9FN

On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 6:16 PM, Jim Lowman  wrote:

> I agree with Don about the HexKey from Elecraft.  Among other
> things, it complements my K1, K2, K3 and (soon) KX3.
>
> My previous favorite is the Mercury paddle that I bought at
> Pacificon in the late 90s.  It was custom-made by the person
> who acquired the rights to reproduce the original N2DAN
> Mercury paddle, before Bencher acquired the rights.
>
> Last Thursday I received my Begali Sculpture paddle, and my
> friend Jay, W5JAY, pointed me to Tony's website, so I also have
> a ZN-V vertical paddle on order from N3ZN that should be
> here around the end of next month.
>
> It's going to be difficult to choose a favorite from the above,
> I'm sure.
>
> Out of curiosity, I looked at auctions for J-38 straight keys.
> Someone has one listed with a "Buy it Now" price of $149!
> It doesn't look to be in as good shape as one that has a
> similar price of $50.
>
> 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key Suggestions

2012-06-25 Thread Ed G
Check out Larry's paddles at:
http://n0sa.com/
Beautiful machine work with highly efficient low-mass arms; a real bargain
for the price he charges.  There is also a single-lever version available. 
--Ed--



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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread David Bunte
Gee, and I can remember in about 1958 riding the train from the 'burbs into
Chicago for about $ .50, walking down to the surplus store, and buying new,
in the box J-38s for $ 1.95 each.  They had hundreds, but short-sighted
teenager that I was, I only bought what I thought I needed at the time.

-Dave-
K9FN

On Mon, Jun 25, 2012 at 6:16 PM, Jim Lowman  wrote:

> I agree with Don about the HexKey from Elecraft.  Among other
> things, it complements my K1, K2, K3 and (soon) KX3.
>
> My previous favorite is the Mercury paddle that I bought at
> Pacificon in the late 90s.  It was custom-made by the person
> who acquired the rights to reproduce the original N2DAN
> Mercury paddle, before Bencher acquired the rights.
>
> Last Thursday I received my Begali Sculpture paddle, and my
> friend Jay, W5JAY, pointed me to Tony's website, so I also have
> a ZN-V vertical paddle on order from N3ZN that should be
> here around the end of next month.
>
> It's going to be difficult to choose a favorite from the above,
> I'm sure.
>
> Out of curiosity, I looked at auctions for J-38 straight keys.
> Someone has one listed with a "Buy it Now" price of $149!
> It doesn't look to be in as good shape as one that has a
> similar price of $50.
>
> 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Thomas Horsten
Jim,

Can only second that, I love my Begali Sculpture. It replaced my first
paddles, a Bencher, which fades rather in comparison.

Incidentally, I took it with me on a trip to Denmark with my FT817, but
only that one time, after that I've travelled lighter :) When I get the KX3
I will take that and use the built-in paddles, the Begali Sculpture is
really not suitable for portable operations but it is just such a great key
you feel like taking it along in spite of its weight.

73, Thomas M0TRN

On 25 June 2012 23:38, Jim Lowman  wrote:

> The Sculpture is a beautiful piece of machine work,
> and the feel is a dream.  You won't regret the purchase.
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Jim Lowman
Stephen, I can vouch for the excellent customer service
from Begali.  I ordered a Sculpture on June 15th, too
late in the day for business hours in Italy.  When I
checked my e-mail the following Monday I had a note
from Bruna Begali that it would be shipped by the end
of the week.

Actually, it left Italy the next day.  When I
looked up the DHL tracking number that Bruna sent on
Thursday, I found that it was out for delivery that day.
When I returned from lunch with the XYL, it was on the
front porch.  Italy to the west coast of the US in four
days!

I was tempted to take it to show off at Field Day, since
Cam (N6GA) was bringing his new KX3.  At this point,
I was afraid to take it outside the house.

The Sculpture is a beautiful piece of machine work,
and the feel is a dream.  You won't regret the purchase.

72/73 de Jim - AD6CW


On 6/25/2012 7:07 AM, Stephen Prior wrote:
> I have just ordered the Begali Expedition direct from Italy.  It was a
> rather rash moment I'm afraid, hope I don't regret it!  It just looks so
> cute in the photo on the Begali website!  I love my Schurr Profi 2 but it's
> too big and heavy to leave my desk!
>
> 73 Stephen G4SJP
>

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Jim,

I recently acquired an ZN-SLR single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN - it is 
a work of art and has a very smooth action.  For straight keys, I have 3 
- one is an original J-38 that sits in the shack as a nostalgia 
generating decoration.  The other is a J-37 whose original base has been 
lost and has been replaced by a piece of 3/8 inch thick oak extending 
close to the center of the armature knob - that eliminates the 
requirement for "two hand keying".  I also recently acquired a British 
key that I will try to see whether I like the British or the American 
keying methods better.  The British method certainly saves a lot of desk 
space - the American method requires that you have enough space to place 
your entire forearm on the desk.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2012 6:16 PM, Jim Lowman wrote:
> I agree with Don about the HexKey from Elecraft.  Among other
> things, it complements my K1, K2, K3 and (soon) KX3.
>
> My previous favorite is the Mercury paddle that I bought at
> Pacificon in the late 90s.  It was custom-made by the person
> who acquired the rights to reproduce the original N2DAN
> Mercury paddle, before Bencher acquired the rights.
>
> Last Thursday I received my Begali Sculpture paddle, and my
> friend Jay, W5JAY, pointed me to Tony's website, so I also have
> a ZN-V vertical paddle on order from N3ZN that should be
> here around the end of next month.
>
> It's going to be difficult to choose a favorite from the above,
> I'm sure.
>
> Out of curiosity, I looked at auctions for J-38 straight keys.
> Someone has one listed with a "Buy it Now" price of $149!
> It doesn't look to be in as good shape as one that has a
> similar price of $50.
>
> 72/73 de Jim - AD6CW
>
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Jim Lowman
I agree with Don about the HexKey from Elecraft.  Among other
things, it complements my K1, K2, K3 and (soon) KX3.

My previous favorite is the Mercury paddle that I bought at
Pacificon in the late 90s.  It was custom-made by the person
who acquired the rights to reproduce the original N2DAN
Mercury paddle, before Bencher acquired the rights.

Last Thursday I received my Begali Sculpture paddle, and my
friend Jay, W5JAY, pointed me to Tony's website, so I also have
a ZN-V vertical paddle on order from N3ZN that should be
here around the end of next month.

It's going to be difficult to choose a favorite from the above,
I'm sure.

Out of curiosity, I looked at auctions for J-38 straight keys.
Someone has one listed with a "Buy it Now" price of $149!
It doesn't look to be in as good shape as one that has a
similar price of $50.

72/73 de Jim - AD6CW


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread stan levandowski
  Ron wrote:

My *only* complaint about the KX1 paddles is the same complaint I have 
about
> every Elecraft rig - there's no keyer mode that lets me make my own 
> dashes.
> I would greatly enjoy a keyer mode that spits out dits automatically 
> with
> one paddle and then allows me to make dashes with the other paddle 
> manually.
> Right now, if I want to go portable with any of the rigs I must either 
> haul
> a straight key with me (bugs don't travel well) or live with the 
> keyer.

Ron, the Begali CW Machine (size is about "one-half KX1") has a complete 
configuration menu which includes "Bug" emulation.  Combined with one of 
Piero's lesser known (and less expensive) products, the HST, the result 
is a single key-paddle-keyer which gives its owner a superb single lever 
non-iambic paddle, a great electonic 'bug', an upscale sideswiper, and - 
if you simply lay it on it's left side - a very pleasant-to-use straight 
key.  All in one.  The HST weighs a ton and has robust construction. 
Travels well too as there's not a lot exposed to damage.  Magnetic 
return on the current production model.  Handles very close spacing for 
those so inclined.

73, Stan WB2LQF 
www.wb2lqf.com
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ron,

Instead of "making your own dashes", for which the timing can become 
critical, I would suggest you help lobby Wayne to include Ultimatic mode 
into the Elecraft keyers.  It is the only way I can use dual lever 
paddles - the last paddle closed gets priority - for instance to send a 
"P", first close the dot paddle, then (keeping the dot paddle closed) 
close the dash paddle long enough to begin the second dash, then release 
the dash - the still held closed dot paddle will send the final dot.  
Much more sensible to me than the alternating dots and dashes of the 
Iambic modes.  Ultimatic mode *can* be used like bug mode if a single 
lever paddle is used (bugs were/are single lever machines).

As I recall, this was the mode used by the original W9TO keyers, and 
prevailed until the Curtis chips became available.

Frankly, I cannot get used to the "finger keying" required by Iambic 
modes.  I learned on a bug and insist on paddles that have the 
fingergrips high enough that I can "roll the wrist" -- it is the only 
way I am comfortable.  If I must use Iambic keying, I have to use a 
single lever paddle which nullifies the Iambic part, and I can once 
again send CW.

A note for the KX1 paddle - I found that was one dual lever paddle that 
I could use (for some unknown reason), but the KX3 paddle (which is a 
superb piece of engineering) requires that the user do "finger keying", 
so it is not of much use to me.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/25/2012 4:59 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:
> I find the KX1 paddle nice to use, but as I said I am *not* picky about the
> sort of key I use.
>
> That said, the "feel" of any paddles I use is actually more important than
> the feel of a mechanical key, probably because paddles are operated with the
> fingers (instead or rolling one's whole hand on a bug or rocking ones entire
> forearm with a straight key).
>
> My *only* complaint about the KX1 paddles is the same complaint I have about
> every Elecraft rig - there's no keyer mode that lets me make my own dashes.
>

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Bill K9YEQ
Yes,

IT packs into the Case much smaller and lighter than any Begali.  I have
both, and only take the KXPD1 in my suitcase.  

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Phil Hystad
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2012 3:19 PM
To: Ron D'Eau Claire
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

OK, now -- hijacking this topic to ask a question of KX1 users...

I bought the paddle key attachment for my KX1 but I have not installed it
yet.  I seem to prefer using my Begali key with my KX1.  The attached KX1
paddle seems like a great feature for hiking in the mountains where the
weight of the Begali may become an issue.  But, I doubt that hiking with a
KX1 is in my future.  I hike with my wife and the mere idea of having some
electronic gismo with me is against her ideas for being up in the Cascades.

So, I am now leaning on not installing the attached paddle set.  Unless
someone here has other good ideas for why it is useful.  I have operated the
KX1 in a portable location on a picnic table in a park but the Begali is not
a problem in that situation.  Actually, the last time I did that I forgot
the Begali and used my Bencher from my truck mobile rig.

Any good reason to keep and install the KX1 attached paddle?

73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Mike Morrow
Ron wrote:

> The appeal of a J-38 is strictly nostalgic and, for me, it
> works as well as any other straight key that I've touched.

These keys have some military historical value as well.

The J-38 was never in operational/combat theater use...it was
used only for US Army radio operator Morse training.

The somewhat simpler J-37 was the key for actual service use.
There was one on every B-17/24/25/26/29 size aircraft, and
every C-45/46/47 cargo aircraft, and on every ground-based Army
fixed/mobile/portable MF/HF station.  On various mounting
bases, it became the J-44, J-45 (KY-116/U), or J-48.

The key that served a similar role in the US Navy was the
navy type 26003 based on the Bendix MT-11B.  This very fine
straight key is my personal favorite, but expect to pay
at minimum $50 US for a used surplus one, even at a hamfest
flea market.

I love old historical straight keys.  There is nothing
equivalent in the iambic key world.

73,
Mike / KK5F

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I find the KX1 paddle nice to use, but as I said I am *not* picky about the
sort of key I use. 

That said, the "feel" of any paddles I use is actually more important than
the feel of a mechanical key, probably because paddles are operated with the
fingers (instead or rolling one's whole hand on a bug or rocking ones entire
forearm with a straight key).

My *only* complaint about the KX1 paddles is the same complaint I have about
every Elecraft rig - there's no keyer mode that lets me make my own dashes.
I would greatly enjoy a keyer mode that spits out dits automatically with
one paddle and then allows me to make dashes with the other paddle manually.
Right now, if I want to go portable with any of the rigs I must either haul
a straight key with me (bugs don't travel well) or live with the keyer. 

You are lucky, Phil, to have a key that travels well with you. In that case
I'd take it along. 

73, Ron AC7AC

-Original Message-

OK, now -- hijacking this topic to ask a question of KX1 users...

I bought the paddle key attachment for my KX1 but I have not installed it
yet.  I seem to prefer using my Begali key with my KX1.  The attached KX1
paddle seems like a great feature for hiking in the mountains where the
weight of the Begali may become an issue.  But, I doubt that hiking with a
KX1 is in my future.  I hike with my wife and the mere idea of having some
electronic gismo with me is against her ideas for being up in the Cascades.

So, I am now leaning on not installing the attached paddle set.  Unless
someone here has other good ideas for why it is useful.  I have operated the
KX1 in a portable location on a picnic table in a park but the Begali is not
a problem in that situation.  Actually, the last time I did that I forgot
the Begali and used my Bencher from my truck mobile rig.

Any good reason to keep and install the KX1 attached paddle?

73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Phil Hystad
OK, now -- hijacking this topic to ask a question of KX1 users...

I bought the paddle key attachment for my KX1 but I have not installed it yet.  
I seem to prefer using my Begali key with my KX1.  The attached KX1 paddle 
seems like a great feature for hiking in the mountains where the weight of the 
Begali may become an issue.  But, I doubt that hiking with a KX1 is in my 
future.  I hike with my wife and the mere idea of having some electronic gismo 
with me is against her ideas for being up in the Cascades.

So, I am now leaning on not installing the attached paddle set.  Unless someone 
here has other good ideas for why it is useful.  I have operated the KX1 in a 
portable location on a picnic table in a park but the Begali is not a problem 
in that situation.  Actually, the last time I did that I forgot the Begali and 
used my Bencher from my truck mobile rig.

Any good reason to keep and install the KX1 attached paddle?

73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I'm not a "key connoisseur". Pounding brass here and there as part of my
work and at home as a Ham, I learned to send with whatever came to hand
(literally:-). The appeal of a J-38 is strictly nostalgic and, for me, it
works as well as any other straight key that I've touched. I use it for any
QSO's under 15 wpm. 

J-38 type keys were designed to be screwed to the table. Like Phil, I did a
lot of novice brass pounding two-handed before I discovered a simple trick:
mount the key on a thin base that extends out under the knob. My original
J-38 was on a base of about 1/4" steel threaded for mounting screws that I
made up in High School machine shop. My current J-38 uses a piece of 1/8"
oak. Flat head screws run up from the bottom with cap nuts on the top to
secure the key to the base. A pad made up of the plastic webbing sold to
keep things from sliding is stuck to the bottom to keep the key from sliding
on the desk. 

I did the same for my Speed-X bug, that is fairly light (compared to
Vibroplex bugs) and which wanted to skate when I rolled my fist too hard
against the paddles. It now sits securely wherever I set it down.  

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-
I think the most overrated key is the J-38.  I see people praising it here
and I don't get it.  Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice
days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra
weight to keep it in one place.  Back when I used it, I did not have extra
weight so keying was a two handed job for me.  My right hand for Morse and
my left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.

73, phil, K7PEH


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Monty Shultes
Phil,

The trick used to keep the J38 in place without weights or screws was to 
reverse it on the bakelite base, so the key knob fell over the base.  You could 
then key away without problems.  I use some anti-skid tape to help.

Monty K2DLJ

On Jun 25, 2012, at 10:02 AM, Phil Hystad wrote:

> I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic classic.  
> Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time.  But, I also 
> have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it.  It is fine for 
> the truck.  Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes I even toss it 
> into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and so when I use it 
> again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer) straightening things out 
> then the key is as good as new -- no other adjustment necessary.  So, in my 
> opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.
> 
> I think the most overrated key is the J-38.  I see people praising it here 
> and I don't get it.  Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice 
> days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra 
> weight to keep it in one place.  Back when I used it, I did not have extra 
> weight so keying was a two handed job for me.  My right hand for Morse and my 
> left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.
> 
> 73, phil, K7PEH
> 
> 
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:
> 
>> Depends on your budget.  IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali.  In my
>> experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
>> 
>> Barry W2UP
>> 
>> 
>> Ronald Nutter wrote
>>> 
>>> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  
>>> 
>>> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ron
>>> KA4KYI
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>> 
>> 
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
>> http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/K3-just-goes-off-tp7558040p7558109.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Ken
Any-other super key is the Chevron, They are hand built in the UK, they come in 
either Solid Bronze, Gold plated, or Chrome.
Check out the chevron web site.
Cant give the web address, I'm on the River Kennet, Fly fishing. 

Ken..G0ORH

Sent from my iPhone 


 


On 25 Jun 2012, at 15:07, Stephen Prior  wrote:

> I have just ordered the Begali Expedition direct from Italy.  It was a
> rather rash moment I'm afraid, hope I don't regret it!  It just looks so
> cute in the photo on the Begali website!  I love my Schurr Profi 2 but it's
> too big and heavy to leave my desk!
> 
> 73 Stephen G4SJP
> On 25 June 2012 15:02, Phil Hystad  wrote:
> 
>> I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic
>> classic.  Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time.
>> But, I also have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it.  It
>> is fine for the truck.  Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes
>> I even toss it into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and
>> so when I use it again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer)
>> straightening things out then the key is as good as new -- no other
>> adjustment necessary.  So, in my opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.
>> 
>> I think the most overrated key is the J-38.  I see people praising it here
>> and I don't get it.  Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice
>> days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra
>> weight to keep it in one place.  Back when I used it, I did not have extra
>> weight so keying was a two handed job for me.  My right hand for Morse and
>> my left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.
>> 
>> 73, phil, K7PEH
>> 
>> 
>> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:
>> 
>>> Depends on your budget.  IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali.  In my
>>> experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
>>> 
>>> Barry W2UP
>>> 
>>> 
>>> Ronald Nutter wrote
 
 The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.
 
 Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
 
 Thanks,
 Ron
 KA4KYI
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>>> 
>>> 
>>> --
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Brian Alsop
Any key will do as long as you use it.  Reduced CW receiving speed 
generally has little to to do with the key.  It does have a lot to do 
with having CW QSO's.

Alternatively, skip the straight key and go straight to a bug or keyer.

Now I'm going to contradict the above.
Unlike conventional wisdom, my CW speed as a novice went up through the 
Extra class level by practicing sending.  Take a page from anywhere and 
keep sending it as fast as possible.  Time how long it takes. Easy to 
keep track of progress.  Receiving pace seemed to track with increased 
sending speed.

Good thing about this is that one doesn't even need a key.  I used to 
tap on my knee during high school classes--sending what was on the 
chalkboard.  At least it kept me awake during History class.

73 de Brian/K3KO

On 6/25/2012 14:02, Phil Hystad wrote:
> I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic classic.  
> Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time.  But, I also 
> have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it.  It is fine for 
> the truck.  Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes I even toss it 
> into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and so when I use it 
> again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer) straightening things out 
> then the key is as good as new -- no other adjustment necessary.  So, in my 
> opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.
>
> I think the most overrated key is the J-38.  I see people praising it here 
> and I don't get it.  Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice 
> days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra 
> weight to keep it in one place.  Back when I used it, I did not have extra 
> weight so keying was a two handed job for me.  My right hand for Morse and my 
> left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:
>
>> Depends on your budget.  IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali.  In my
>> experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
>>
>> Barry W2UP
>>
>>
>> Ronald Nutter wrote
>>>
>>> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.
>>>
>>> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>>>
>>> Thanks,
>>> Ron
>>> KA4KYI
>>> __
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>>
>>
>> --
>> View this message in context: 
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>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Stephen Prior
I have just ordered the Begali Expedition direct from Italy.  It was a
rather rash moment I'm afraid, hope I don't regret it!  It just looks so
cute in the photo on the Begali website!  I love my Schurr Profi 2 but it's
too big and heavy to leave my desk!

73 Stephen G4SJP
On 25 June 2012 15:02, Phil Hystad  wrote:

> I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic
> classic.  Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time.
>  But, I also have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it.  It
> is fine for the truck.  Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes
> I even toss it into the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and
> so when I use it again I have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer)
> straightening things out then the key is as good as new -- no other
> adjustment necessary.  So, in my opinion, the Bencher is a fine key.
>
> I think the most overrated key is the J-38.  I see people praising it here
> and I don't get it.  Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice
> days back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra
> weight to keep it in one place.  Back when I used it, I did not have extra
> weight so keying was a two handed job for me.  My right hand for Morse and
> my left hand to hold the J-38 on the table.
>
> 73, phil, K7PEH
>
>
> On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:
>
> > Depends on your budget.  IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali.  In my
> > experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
> >
> > Barry W2UP
> >
> >
> > Ronald Nutter wrote
> >>
> >> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.
> >>
> >> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
> >>
> >> Thanks,
> >> Ron
> >> KA4KYI
> >> __
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> >>
> >
> >
> > --
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> > Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> > __
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Phil Hystad
I have two Begali keys, the camelback straight key and the magnetic classic.  
Both are excellent and I use the magnetic classic all the time.  But, I also 
have a Bencher in the truck and I see no problems with it.  It is fine for the 
truck.  Besides, it gets dropped on the floor or sometimes I even toss it into 
the back seat and the key paddles get all cockeyed and so when I use it again I 
have to spent about 5 seconds (no longer) straightening things out then the key 
is as good as new -- no other adjustment necessary.  So, in my opinion, the 
Bencher is a fine key.

I think the most overrated key is the J-38.  I see people praising it here and 
I don't get it.  Sure, it is an old classic and I had one in my novice days 
back in the 1960s but it is a rather ordinary key that needs extra weight to 
keep it in one place.  Back when I used it, I did not have extra weight so 
keying was a two handed job for me.  My right hand for Morse and my left hand 
to hold the J-38 on the table.

73, phil, K7PEH


On Jun 25, 2012, at 4:44 AM, Barry wrote:

> Depends on your budget.  IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali.  In my
> experience, Bencher is one of the worst.
> 
> Barry W2UP
> 
> 
> Ronald Nutter wrote
>> 
>> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  
>> 
>> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>> 
>> Thanks,
>> Ron
>> KA4KYI
>> __
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> 
> 
> --
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> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions?

2012-06-25 Thread Bill
You might find some information at: http://www.radiotelegraphy.net

Bill W2BLC

-- 
IN GOD I TRUST (but, NOT a single politician)
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Barry
Depends on your budget.  IMO, the best are N3ZN and Begali.  In my
experience, Bencher is one of the worst.

Barry W2UP


Ronald Nutter wrote
> 
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  
> 
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
> 
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
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> 


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Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-25 Thread Hjalmar Duklæt

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions?

2012-06-24 Thread Ralph Parker
>I am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817...

817? How about the Palm Paddles? A perfect companion.
Not bigger or heavier heavier than the xcvr, like the Elecraft Hex Key
would be (my favourite until I bought my Begali Magnetic Pro). Seems I like
the magnetic return best, but the Palm sticks to the 817 like glue. (OK,
magnetic glue :-)

Ralph, VE7XF

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread Tom McCulloch
I had a J-38 as a kid (as many of us did) and started to feet nostalgic 
about it.  A few years back I bought one on E-bay.  So now I don't feel 
nostalgic anymore, but I also don't use the J-28. Keys have come a long 
way since WW II and thankfully so.

It was a nice key when it was a buck fifty but now I see mint J-38 are 
going in the $50 range. No for me.

Tom
wb2qdg
K2 1103

On 6/24/2012 9:14 PM, Bill K9YEQ wrote:
> I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it.  It was in mint
> condition.  I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable
> price.
>
> 73,
> Bill
> K9YEQ
>
>
>

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ? - And a Story of the true Ham Spirit!

2012-06-24 Thread Ron D'Eau Claire
I gave away my J-38, mined from a WWII "surplus store" in the early 1950's,
to a new Novice years ago after I switched all of my CW operating using
paddles and, eventually, grew to regret it when I returned to a bug and
straight key. Then I ran into Larry, W6CCW, in Northern California on 40
meter CW one evening. 

Larry had for some years used a barefoot HW-8 (2 watts output) and had saved
to buy a 100 watt rig. He finally did so and "gave" his new rig to himself
for Christmas early one December. Then he learned that a disabled friend
nearby had a rig that failed, putting him off the air and out of contact
with his friends on both CW and SSB. He could not afford to repair it. So
Larry wrapped up his new rig and gave it to his friend for Christmas, and
dug his 2-watt HW-8 out of storage.

I had used an HW-8 for years before building my K2 in 2000. Over the years I
had built an outboard amp for it that ran about 15 watts output - a BIG step
up over the 2-watts the HW-8 ran barefoot. I learned Larry's story during a
rag-chew we had on 40 meters one evening. So I sent my amp off to Larry to
hang onto his HW-8.

A box arrived in my mail one day. It was from Larry. Inside was a J-38 that
he had kept in his junk box for many years and had dug out after hearing me
mention that I had given mine away to a Novice many years ago. 

It's a beautiful key from a Ham who, IMHO, knows the true spirit of Amateur
Radio. 

73, Ron AC7AC


-Original Message-

I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it.  It was in mint
condition.  I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable
price.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread Leroy Marion
N3ZN  Keys.  Beautiful, precision, fully  adjustable, AMERICAN made.
I have lots of keys(including Schurr) and it’s the one I use.

Leroy AB7CE

-Original Message- 
From: John Strandberg
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 6:59 PM
To: Ronald Nutter
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

I am on the same path, just ordered a KX3 and likewise will add the paddle
to the order before I receive the 'Christmas present'. I've been moving
slowly towards CW over the last 2 years and have had a Vibroplex Iambic on
my 'list' the whole time.  About 6 weeks ago, I picked up at Nye-Viking
straight key.  It took a while to feel comfortable with it but through the
same time period, my copy speed got better. I recommend the Nye-Viking for
a straight key.  Having read the Begali reviews for 2 years (similar to
Elecraft for product function and quality, engineering & customer service
reviews), I sprung for the Begali Simplex.  Received it this past Thursday.
It was a little more $, but after having hooked it up and used it - it's a
purchase I'll never regret.

73 John W4DX

On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter 
wrote:

> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> __
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread w1pns
Ron, 


Nye-Viking certainly would be a good choice for a straight key. I recommend 
taking a look at the new-old stock Czech military keys on eBay. I have one, and 
it is very smooth. It looks unusual, but if you take it into the field at all 
with your KX3, that cover will do a nice job of keeping the 'skeeters out! ;-) 


With best regards, 


Pete 
W1PNS 

- Original Message -
From: "Ronald Nutter"  
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net 
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:23:51 PM 
Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ? 

Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions. 

The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key. I am thinking about 
getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3. Since the KX3 that 
I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around 
Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I 
am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the 
interim. 

I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight 
key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the 
Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve. While I probably wont do 
CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I 
currently am. 

Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has. 

Thanks, 
Ron 
KA4KYI 
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread Joe K2UF


Hi Ron,

You will probably get many different suggestions about keys.  I would
suggest picking up a good used Bencher paddle at a flee market or on the
internet sites.  Probably get one for around $50.  I have three of them, one
in my truck and two here in the shack.  They look fragile but can take a
beating.  When my grand daughter (four years old) is here she likes to play
with the one on the operating desk.  I have to make sure the rig is not live
when she is here.  It take her abuse and keeps on ticking.  And the one in
the truck gets bounced around quite a bit but never stops working.  They
send CW pretty good also.  ;o)

Good luck es 73,   Joe K2UF
 
No trees were harmed in the sending of this e-mail; however, many electrons
were inconvenienced.

-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Ronald Nutter
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 8:24 PM
To: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.

The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about 
getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that 
I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around 
Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I 
am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the 
interim.

I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight 
key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the 
Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do 
CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I 
currently am.

Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.

Thanks,
Ron
KA4KYI
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread Bill K9YEQ
I had the J-38 and to this day am so sorry I sold it.  It was in mint
condition.  I have yet to find one that is clean and intact for a reasonable
price.

73,
Bill
K9YEQ


-Original Message-
From: elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net
[mailto:elecraft-boun...@mailman.qth.net] On Behalf Of Don Wilhelm
Sent: Sunday, June 24, 2012 7:48 PM
To: Ronald Nutter
Cc: elecraft@mailman.qth.net
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

Ron,

For paddles, the Hex Key from Elecraft is always a good choice - it is about
half the cost of premium paddles from N3ZN or Bengali (use Google).

I recently acquired a single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN and can tell you it
is a work of art and extremely smooth operating.

For straight keys, check out the popular auction sites for J-38 key, or look
at the N3ZN straight keys (not yet priced) at
http://www.n3znkeys.com/c/7/straight-keys-coming-soon.

Nostalgia fever has driven the price of the J-38 key up considerably.  
Back in the '50s when I was a new ham, they were available for $1 or $2
- but then you could also buy an ARC-5 transmitter or receiver for $5 - we
generally stripped those for parts to use in other homebrew projects, but
some remain intact and are selling for high prices if they are still in good
original condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:
> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI

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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread John Strandberg
I am on the same path, just ordered a KX3 and likewise will add the paddle
to the order before I receive the 'Christmas present'. I've been moving
slowly towards CW over the last 2 years and have had a Vibroplex Iambic on
my 'list' the whole time.  About 6 weeks ago, I picked up at Nye-Viking
straight key.  It took a while to feel comfortable with it but through the
same time period, my copy speed got better. I recommend the Nye-Viking for
a straight key.  Having read the Begali reviews for 2 years (similar to
Elecraft for product function and quality, engineering & customer service
reviews), I sprung for the Begali Simplex.  Received it this past Thursday.
It was a little more $, but after having hooked it up and used it - it's a
purchase I'll never regret.

73 John W4DX

On Sun, Jun 24, 2012 at 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:

> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread Don Wilhelm
Ron,

For paddles, the Hex Key from Elecraft is always a good choice - it is 
about half the cost of premium paddles from N3ZN or Bengali (use Google).

I recently acquired a single lever paddle from Tony N3ZN and can tell 
you it is a work of art and extremely smooth operating.

For straight keys, check out the popular auction sites for J-38 key, or 
look at the N3ZN straight keys (not yet priced) at 
http://www.n3znkeys.com/c/7/straight-keys-coming-soon.

Nostalgia fever has driven the price of the J-38 key up considerably.  
Back in the '50s when I was a new ham, they were available for $1 or $2 
- but then you could also buy an ARC-5 transmitter or receiver for $5 - 
we generally stripped those for parts to use in other homebrew projects, 
but some remain intact and are selling for high prices if they are still 
in good original condition.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:
> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
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Re: [Elecraft] CW Key suggestions ?

2012-06-24 Thread Ian Kahn - Ham
Ron,

I use a Bencher BY-1 that I bought used on eBay.  I don't do too much 
CW, so it was a great purchase for me.  It's inexpensive, solidly built, 
and the foundation level key from one of the top names in CW paddles, if 
you don't want to pay for a Vibroplex.

Hope this helps.

73,

--Ian

Ian Kahn, KM4IK
Roswell, GA  EM74ua
km4ik@gmail.com
K3 #281, P3 #688
HRD v5.x/6.0 Test Team

On 6/24/2012 8:23 PM, Ronald Nutter wrote:
> Thanks to all that have responded to my previous questions.
>
> The next thing I am looking at is getting a CW key.  I am thinking about
> getting the "plug-in" key that is an option for KX3.  Since the KX3 that
> I have ordered probably wont be in my hands until sometime around
> Christmas based on the other emails I see of order date to ship date, I
> am looking at getting a CW key for the FT817 I will be using in the
> interim.
>
> I am thinking about possibly getting two different keys - a straight
> key, possibly a Nye-Viking type and maybe something similar to the
> Iambic keyer paddle as my cw skills improve.  While I probably wont do
> CW all of the time, it doesnt hurt to be more fluent in that mode than I
> currently am.
>
> Would appreciate any suggestions in this area that anyone here has.
>
> Thanks,
> Ron
> KA4KYI
> __
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:Elecraft@mailman.qth.net
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html


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