Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-05 Thread John Thornton
I use craigslist to give things like that a new zipcode...

John

gene heskett wrote:
 On Monday, April 04, 2011 10:00:16 AM John Thornton did opine:


 No one said you have to turn it on once it is built.

 John

  
 True, but short of more buildings, anything else I get will need a place in
 out of the weather.  This postage stamp, trapezoidal shaped lot has 4
 outbuildings on it now.  It seems like stuff I buy, is here forever.  I
 have had some tools sitting under a tarp in the driveway with 4 Sale signs
 on them for over a year, no nibbles.

 Examples:
 A 12 Craftsman tilting head bandsaw I use for a power hacksaw
 occasionally, runs well, with over a dozen new and used blades, $200

 A 6 Dewalt VS benchtop jointer on a stand w/2 sets new blades, $240new,
 $60.  The VS died and is bypassed.

 A Craftsman dovetail jig, $80new, $20, no bit.

 A 10 BD/Dewalt radial arm saw with oversized table, works well, $100

 The latter is under foot in the shop building.  Listed on the local radio
 station swap  shop program for several months last summer, not even a
 phone call.  Yard sale signs posted most of last summer. Not even a
 motorized gawker.

 Which amazes me, this is yard sales by the dozens all summer country.



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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-05 Thread gene heskett
On Tuesday, April 05, 2011 11:38:20 AM John Thornton did opine:

 I use craigslist to give things like that a new zipcode...
 
 John

Humm, that hadn't crossed my alleged mind, John, thanks.

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-05 Thread Dave
John,

I live on the edge of civilization and my next door neighbor was a 
house builder.  That didn't work out with the complete stall in 
construction in the Midwest, so he put a bunch of his tools up for sale.

I didn't realize that until the sale had been going on in his driveway 
for 6+ hours.

Still, he simply could not sell some things including a 1 hp commercial 
grade air compressor - the wheelbarrow type - purchased for $75, and a 
Delta Unisaw Tablesaw - purchased for $100!

The used tool market is really in the dumper up here and that may be why 
you have having problems getting rid of your tools.

Plus they aren't teaching woodshop or metalshop in the high schools any 
longer up here so the younger kids simply have no idea
how to run a saw or do the things that many of us take for granted.

Many (but not all) of them think that only contractors use tools like 
that.

Dave



On 4/5/2011 8:07 AM, John Thornton wrote:
 I use craigslist to give things like that a new zipcode...

 John

 gene heskett wrote:

 On Monday, April 04, 2011 10:00:16 AM John Thornton did opine:


  
 No one said you have to turn it on once it is built.

 John



 True, but short of more buildings, anything else I get will need a place in
 out of the weather.  This postage stamp, trapezoidal shaped lot has 4
 outbuildings on it now.  It seems like stuff I buy, is here forever.  I
 have had some tools sitting under a tarp in the driveway with 4 Sale signs
 on them for over a year, no nibbles.

 Examples:
 A 12 Craftsman tilting head bandsaw I use for a power hacksaw
 occasionally, runs well, with over a dozen new and used blades, $200

 A 6 Dewalt VS benchtop jointer on a stand w/2 sets new blades, $240new,
 $60.  The VS died and is bypassed.

 A Craftsman dovetail jig, $80new, $20, no bit.

 A 10 BD/Dewalt radial arm saw with oversized table, works well, $100

 The latter is under foot in the shop building.  Listed on the local radio
 station swap   shop program for several months last summer, not even a
 phone call.  Yard sale signs posted most of last summer. Not even a
 motorized gawker.

 Which amazes me, this is yard sales by the dozens all summer country.


  
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 smartphone on the nation's most reliable network.
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-04 Thread Mark Wendt
On 04/03/2011 05:29 PM, gene heskett wrote:
 On my BP Series 1 I
 use an Automation Direct GS2 VFD as it is only 1.5hp for the spindle and
 they are cost effective way to get up to 3hp 3 phase from single phase.

 I'd have to agree, and wish I had that big a mill, sniff...

15 HP is gonna be a little large for yer mini mill.  Just sayin'...  ;-)

Mark

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-04 Thread gene heskett
On Monday, April 04, 2011 05:42:05 AM Mark Wendt did opine:

 On 04/03/2011 05:29 PM, gene heskett wrote:
  On my BP Series 1 I
  use an Automation Direct GS2 VFD as it is only 1.5hp for the spindle
  and they are cost effective way to get up to 3hp 3 phase from single
  phase.
  
  I'd have to agree, and wish I had that big a mill, sniff...
 
 15 HP is gonna be a little large for yer mini mill.  Just sayin'...  ;-)
 
 Mark
 
Yep.  But I've been drooling over bigger stuff.  ;-)

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-04 Thread Mark Wendt
On 04/04/2011 05:43 AM, gene heskett wrote:
 On Monday, April 04, 2011 05:42:05 AM Mark Wendt did opine:

 On 04/03/2011 05:29 PM, gene heskett wrote:
 On my BP Series 1 I
 use an Automation Direct GS2 VFD as it is only 1.5hp for the spindle
 and they are cost effective way to get up to 3hp 3 phase from single
 phase.

 I'd have to agree, and wish I had that big a mill, sniff...

 15 HP is gonna be a little large for yer mini mill.  Just sayin'...  ;-)

 Mark

 Yep.  But I've been drooling over bigger stuff.  ;-)

I hear ya.  Ever since Stuart and Sam started posting videos of their 
little machines, I've been sportin' a...  Well, you know - I wanna 
bigger machine!

Mark

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-04 Thread John Thornton
No one said you have to turn it on once it is built.

John

gene heskett wrote:
 On Monday, April 04, 2011 05:42:05 AM Mark Wendt did opine:


 On 04/03/2011 05:29 PM, gene heskett wrote:
  
 On my BP Series 1 I
 use an Automation Direct GS2 VFD as it is only 1.5hp for the spindle
 and they are cost effective way to get up to 3hp 3 phase from single
 phase.
  
 I'd have to agree, and wish I had that big a mill, sniff...

 15 HP is gonna be a little large for yer mini mill.  Just sayin'...  ;-)

 Mark

  
 Yep.  But I've been drooling over bigger stuff.  ;-)



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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-04 Thread gene heskett
On Monday, April 04, 2011 10:00:16 AM John Thornton did opine:

 No one said you have to turn it on once it is built.
 
 John
 
True, but short of more buildings, anything else I get will need a place in 
out of the weather.  This postage stamp, trapezoidal shaped lot has 4 
outbuildings on it now.  It seems like stuff I buy, is here forever.  I 
have had some tools sitting under a tarp in the driveway with 4 Sale signs 
on them for over a year, no nibbles.

Examples:
A 12 Craftsman tilting head bandsaw I use for a power hacksaw 
occasionally, runs well, with over a dozen new and used blades, $200

A 6 Dewalt VS benchtop jointer on a stand w/2 sets new blades, $240new, 
$60.  The VS died and is bypassed.

A Craftsman dovetail jig, $80new, $20, no bit.

A 10 BD/Dewalt radial arm saw with oversized table, works well, $100

The latter is under foot in the shop building.  Listed on the local radio 
station swap  shop program for several months last summer, not even a 
phone call.  Yard sale signs posted most of last summer. Not even a 
motorized gawker.

Which amazes me, this is yard sales by the dozens all summer country.

-- 
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There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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http://www.cantrip.org/gatto.html
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-03 Thread John Thornton
John,

I think it is finally done... sorry for the delay.

http://gnipsel.com/shop/rpc/rpc.xhtml

John

John Crane wrote:
 John,

 Thanks for the update.

 JRC

 On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 6:02 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com  wrote:


 I can't find my drawings atm, so I'm recreating them from scratch and
 will post them as soon as done. Just wanted to let you know I did not
 forget although sometimes I do.

 John

 John Crane wrote:
  
 Thanks,

 John R. Crane

 On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 7:27 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com   wrote:



 John,

 I'll dig out my schematic and make sure it is up to date and figure a
 way to post it to the list.

 John

 John Crane wrote:

  
 John,

 I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
 converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.

 Thanks,

 John R. Crane

 On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 5:53 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com

 wrote:
  



 I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential
 relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I
  
 don't
  
 have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few
 seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start
 caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them.
 They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However
 phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the
 voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone
  
 is
  
 interested...

 John

 Dave wrote:


  
 Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some

 charts
  
 on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a


 cheap

  
 supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
 and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330


 uf

  
 330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a

 push
  
 button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
 down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor


 spins

  
 up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
 like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
 it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
 number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
 via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the

 contactor
  
 drops out and the converter idler motor and he
 attached slave motors are powered down.

 The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when

 you
  
 consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
 start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
 For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.

 The
  
 rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
 three phases and spins up
 the slaved motor.It works very well.

 During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting


 capacitors

  
 are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
 Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
 fully balance.

 Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting

 caps
  
 go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only
 designed to be switched in for a few seconds.

 A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to

 do
  
 some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.

 Dave

 On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:





  
 On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com

   wrote:
  





 Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri
  
 with
  
  
 a

  
 3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all

  
 the

  
 math...





  


 Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math
  
 for
  
 you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.

 Jon




  
  
  
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-03 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Sun, 2011-04-03 at 10:52 -0400, gene heskett wrote:
... snip
 I would have a hard time justifying an idling current draw of 35 amps a leg 
 from the 240 to run a 3 horse motor on the machine.

This links covers a remote start setup:
http://homemetalshopclub.org/projects/phconv/phconv.html 

This one is new to me:
http://hmin.tripod.com/als/andysm/pages/3phase02.html 

looks similar to John's schematic.

I used this link for mine:
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html 

It seems that if I were clever enough, there might be a way to have a
low voltage on the converter output that could sense when a machine is
turned on, then start the converter, switch in the high voltage, then
shut down when no load is sensed. My converter is close to the machine I
use it with, so I just turn it on and off as needed.
-- 
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http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-03 Thread John Thornton
I actually have a 24vdc control on the lathe that starts/stops the phase 
converter right from the lathe front panel.

John

Kirk Wallace wrote:
 On Sun, 2011-04-03 at 10:52 -0400, gene heskett wrote:
 ... snip

 I would have a hard time justifying an idling current draw of 35 amps a leg
 from the 240 to run a 3 horse motor on the machine.
  
 This links covers a remote start setup:
 http://homemetalshopclub.org/projects/phconv/phconv.html

 This one is new to me:
 http://hmin.tripod.com/als/andysm/pages/3phase02.html

 looks similar to John's schematic.

 I used this link for mine:
 http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html

 It seems that if I were clever enough, there might be a way to have a
 low voltage on the converter output that could sense when a machine is
 turned on, then start the converter, switch in the high voltage, then
 shut down when no load is sensed. My converter is close to the machine I
 use it with, so I just turn it on and off as needed.


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-03 Thread gene heskett
On Sunday, April 03, 2011 04:58:59 PM Dave did opine:

 It's won't draw anything close to 35 amps and a lot of the currrent it
 draws will be reactive power (KVARS) which your power meter does not
 sense (at least it should not).
 
 15 hp is pretty big though, but if the price is right, I'd try it out.
 The downside is that you will need a lot of caps to spin that baby up. 
 :-)
Well, its a spare for the GE TF3a transmitters heat exchanger, shut down 2 
years ago now.  There is also a couple of spares for the water pump, which 
are 10's IIRC.  And I am good at twisting arms. ;-)
 
 Dave
 
 On 4/3/2011 10:52 AM, gene heskett wrote:
  On Sunday, April 03, 2011 10:46:26 AM John Thornton did opine:
  John,
  
  I think it is finally done... sorry for the delay.
  
  http://gnipsel.com/shop/rpc/rpc.xhtml
  
  John
  
  How efficient would you say this is John?  I can lay my hands on a 15
  hp 3 phase motor for the base iron.
  
  And how big a 3 phase motor could be operated from it?
  
  I would have a hard time justifying an idling current draw of 35 amps
  a leg from the 240 to run a 3 horse motor on the machine.
 
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-03 Thread gene heskett
On Sunday, April 03, 2011 05:15:32 PM Kirk Wallace did opine:

 On Sun, 2011-04-03 at 10:52 -0400, gene heskett wrote:
 ... snip
 
  I would have a hard time justifying an idling current draw of 35 amps
  a leg from the 240 to run a 3 horse motor on the machine.
 
 This links covers a remote start setup:
 http://homemetalshopclub.org/projects/phconv/phconv.html
 
 This one is new to me:
 http://hmin.tripod.com/als/andysm/pages/3phase02.html
 
 looks similar to John's schematic.
 
 I used this link for mine:
 http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html
 
 It seems that if I were clever enough, there might be a way to have a
 low voltage on the converter output that could sense when a machine is
 turned on, then start the converter, switch in the high voltage, then
 shut down when no load is sensed. My converter is close to the machine I
 use it with, so I just turn it on and off as needed.

I'm sure such a gizmo could be designed.  The problem is in protecting the 
sensor from the 30x higher operating voltage.  Not to mention that what I 
could come up with in just a few seconds thought, is probably going to 
waste at least 5 watts on a 24/7 basis, not a good idea in some locales.

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 soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order.
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-03 Thread gene heskett
On Sunday, April 03, 2011 05:22:28 PM John Thornton did opine:

 I run my lathe and mill from it. The lathe is about 7.5hp spindle and
 the mill is about 7.5hp spindle. And of course it is so convenient I
 just turn it on when needed and off when not. My EMC machines the
 computer is on 120vac so I only need the phase converter on when
 machining. I just checked and the single phase side draws 9 amps when
 idling and 9.5 with the lathe spindle spinning with no load at 2k.

If using an 'AmProbe' like device to measure that, I suspect some reactive 
power is registering to it, that likely is not registering at the power 
meter itself.  But thats more of a common sense feeling than anything else 
since it isn't terribly convenient to clock the meters disk and translate 
that to KWH.  It could be done I guess, given a big enough curiosity bump.

 I'd
 say it is more efficient than paying the local coop to run 3 phase a few
 miles back into the woods to me from the highway.

Chuckle, for the first 30 years anyway. :-)  By then you'll probably have 
solar and wind and be off the grid because its cheaper than petrol power.

 On my BP Series 1 I
 use an Automation Direct GS2 VFD as it is only 1.5hp for the spindle and
 they are cost effective way to get up to 3hp 3 phase from single phase.

I'd have to agree, and wish I had that big a mill, sniff...
 
 John
 
 gene heskett wrote:
  On Sunday, April 03, 2011 10:46:26 AM John Thornton did opine:
  John,
  
  I think it is finally done... sorry for the delay.
  
  http://gnipsel.com/shop/rpc/rpc.xhtml
  
  John
  
  How efficient would you say this is John?  I can lay my hands on a 15
  hp 3 phase motor for the base iron.
  
  And how big a 3 phase motor could be operated from it?
  
  I would have a hard time justifying an idling current draw of 35 amps
  a leg from the 240 to run a 3 horse motor on the machine.
 
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-04-03 Thread Dave
Right, Amprobes can only measure absolute current.   Theorectically a 
load could draw 10 amps at 230 volts  and it would not spin your power 
meter at all if it had a power factor of zero.

But that is pretty much impossible.

If the power factor was 50%  then the total watts being consumed and 
registered on you meter would be 10 amps x 230 volts x .5 (50% power 
factor).

Dave




On 4/3/2011 5:29 PM, gene heskett wrote:
 On Sunday, April 03, 2011 05:22:28 PM John Thornton did opine:


 I run my lathe and mill from it. The lathe is about 7.5hp spindle and
 the mill is about 7.5hp spindle. And of course it is so convenient I
 just turn it on when needed and off when not. My EMC machines the
 computer is on 120vac so I only need the phase converter on when
 machining. I just checked and the single phase side draws 9 amps when
 idling and 9.5 with the lathe spindle spinning with no load at 2k.
  
 If using an 'AmProbe' like device to measure that, I suspect some reactive
 power is registering to it, that likely is not registering at the power
 meter itself.  But thats more of a common sense feeling than anything else
 since it isn't terribly convenient to clock the meters disk and translate
 that to KWH.  It could be done I guess, given a big enough curiosity bump.


 I'd
 say it is more efficient than paying the local coop to run 3 phase a few
 miles back into the woods to me from the highway.
  
 Chuckle, for the first 30 years anyway. :-)  By then you'll probably have
 solar and wind and be off the grid because its cheaper than petrol power.


 On my BP Series 1 I
 use an Automation Direct GS2 VFD as it is only 1.5hp for the spindle and
 they are cost effective way to get up to 3hp 3 phase from single phase.
  
 I'd have to agree, and wish I had that big a mill, sniff...


 John

 gene heskett wrote:
  
 On Sunday, April 03, 2011 10:46:26 AM John Thornton did opine:

 John,

 I think it is finally done... sorry for the delay.

 http://gnipsel.com/shop/rpc/rpc.xhtml

 John
  
 How efficient would you say this is John?  I can lay my hands on a 15
 hp 3 phase motor for the base iron.

 And how big a 3 phase motor could be operated from it?

 I would have a hard time justifying an idling current draw of 35 amps
 a leg from the 240 to run a 3 horse motor on the machine.

 
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-27 Thread John Thornton
I can't find my drawings atm, so I'm recreating them from scratch and 
will post them as soon as done. Just wanted to let you know I did not 
forget although sometimes I do.

John

John Crane wrote:
 Thanks,

 John R. Crane

 On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 7:27 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com  wrote:


 John,

 I'll dig out my schematic and make sure it is up to date and figure a
 way to post it to the list.

 John

 John Crane wrote:
  
 John,

 I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
 converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.

 Thanks,

 John R. Crane

 On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 5:53 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com   wrote:



 I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential
 relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I don't
 have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few
 seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start
 caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them.
 They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However
 phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the
 voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone is
 interested...

 John

 Dave wrote:

  
 Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some charts
 on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a

 cheap
  
 supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
 and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330

 uf
  
 330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a push
 button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
 down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor

 spins
  
 up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
 like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
 it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
 number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
 via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the contactor
 drops out and the converter idler motor and he
 attached slave motors are powered down.

 The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when you
 consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
 start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
 For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.   The
 rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
 three phases and spins up
 the slaved motor.It works very well.

 During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting

 capacitors
  
 are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
 Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
 fully balance.

 Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting caps
 go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only
 designed to be switched in for a few seconds.

 A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to do
 some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.

 Dave

 On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:




  
 On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com  wrote:





 Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with
  
 a
  
 3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all
  
 the
  
 math...




  


 Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for
 you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.

 Jon



  
  
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-27 Thread John Crane
John,

Thanks for the update.

JRC

On Sun, Mar 27, 2011 at 6:02 AM, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:

 I can't find my drawings atm, so I'm recreating them from scratch and
 will post them as soon as done. Just wanted to let you know I did not
 forget although sometimes I do.

 John

 John Crane wrote:
  Thanks,
 
  John R. Crane
 
  On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 7:27 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com  wrote:
 
 
  John,
 
  I'll dig out my schematic and make sure it is up to date and figure a
  way to post it to the list.
 
  John
 
  John Crane wrote:
 
  John,
 
  I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
  converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.
 
  Thanks,
 
  John R. Crane
 
  On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 5:53 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com
 wrote:
 
 
 
  I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential
  relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I
 don't
  have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few
  seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start
  caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them.
  They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However
  phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the
  voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone
 is
  interested...
 
  John
 
  Dave wrote:
 
 
  Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some
 charts
  on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a
 
  cheap
 
  supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
  and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330
 
  uf
 
  330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a
 push
  button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
  down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor
 
  spins
 
  up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
  like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
  it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
  number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
  via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the
 contactor
  drops out and the converter idler motor and he
  attached slave motors are powered down.
 
  The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when
 you
  consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
  start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
  For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.
 The
  rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
  three phases and spins up
  the slaved motor.It works very well.
 
  During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting
 
  capacitors
 
  are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
  Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
  fully balance.
 
  Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting
 caps
  go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only
  designed to be switched in for a few seconds.
 
  A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to
 do
  some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.
 
  Dave
 
  On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
  On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com
  wrote:
 
 
 
 
 
  Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri
 with
 
  a
 
  3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all
 
  the
 
  math...
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math
 for
  you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.
 
  Jon
 
 
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-23 Thread John Crane
Thanks,

John R. Crane

On Mon, Mar 21, 2011 at 7:27 AM, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:

 John,

 I'll dig out my schematic and make sure it is up to date and figure a
 way to post it to the list.

 John

 John Crane wrote:
  John,
 
  I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
  converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.
 
  Thanks,
 
  John R. Crane
 
  On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 5:53 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com  wrote:
 
 
  I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential
  relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I don't
  have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few
  seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start
  caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them.
  They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However
  phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the
  voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone is
  interested...
 
  John
 
  Dave wrote:
 
  Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some charts
  on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a
 cheap
  supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
  and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330
 uf
  330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a push
  button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
  down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor
 spins
  up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
  like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
  it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
  number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
  via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the contactor
  drops out and the converter idler motor and he
  attached slave motors are powered down.
 
  The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when you
  consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
  start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
  For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.   The
  rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
  three phases and spins up
  the slaved motor.It works very well.
 
  During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting
 capacitors
  are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
  Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
  fully balance.
 
  Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting caps
  go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only
  designed to be switched in for a few seconds.
 
  A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to do
  some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.
 
  Dave
 
  On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
 
 
 
 
  On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com wrote:
 
 
 
 
  Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with
 a
  3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all
 the
  math...
 
 
 
 
 
 
  Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for
  you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.
 
  Jon
 
 
 
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-21 Thread John Thornton
John,

I'll dig out my schematic and make sure it is up to date and figure a 
way to post it to the list.

John

John Crane wrote:
 John,

 I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
 converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.

 Thanks,

 John R. Crane

 On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 5:53 AM, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com  wrote:


 I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential
 relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I don't
 have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few
 seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start
 caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them.
 They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However
 phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the
 voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone is
 interested...

 John

 Dave wrote:
  
 Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some charts
 on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a cheap
 supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
 and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330 uf
 330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a push
 button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
 down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor spins
 up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
 like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
 it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
 number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
 via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the contactor
 drops out and the converter idler motor and he
 attached slave motors are powered down.

 The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when you
 consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
 start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
 For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.   The
 rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
 three phases and spins up
 the slaved motor.It works very well.

 During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting capacitors
 are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
 Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
 fully balance.

 Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting caps
 go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only
 designed to be switched in for a few seconds.

 A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to do
 some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.

 Dave

 On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:



  
 On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com wrote:




 Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with a
 3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all the
 math...



  


 Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for
 you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.

 Jon


  
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-20 Thread John Crane
John,

I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.

Thanks,

John R. Crane

On Thu, Mar 17, 2011 at 5:53 AM, John Thornton bjt...@gmail.com wrote:

 I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential
 relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I don't
 have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few
 seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start
 caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them.
 They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However
 phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the
 voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone is
 interested...

 John

 Dave wrote:
  Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some charts
  on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a cheap
  supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
  and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330 uf
  330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a push
  button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
  down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor spins
  up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
  like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
  it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
  number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
  via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the contactor
  drops out and the converter idler motor and he
  attached slave motors are powered down.
 
  The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when you
  consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
  start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
  For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.   The
  rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
  three phases and spins up
  the slaved motor.It works very well.
 
  During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting capacitors
  are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
  Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
  fully balance.
 
  Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting caps
  go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only
  designed to be switched in for a few seconds.
 
  A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to do
  some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.
 
  Dave
 
  On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:
 
 
 
  On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.comwrote:
 
 
 
  Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with a
  3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all the
  math...
 
 
 
 
 
  Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for
  you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.
 
  Jon
 
 
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-20 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Sun, 2011-03-20 at 13:35 -0500, John Crane wrote:
 John,
 
 I would like to know more about the way you have engineered your phase
 converters.  I am in the process of adding this capability in my shop.
 
 Thanks,
 
 John R. Crane

In case it might help, this is the design I used:
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html 
-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-17 Thread John Thornton
I have three rotary phase converters. The are all using a potential 
relay for the start caps and a relay that pulls in the mains. So I don't 
have to hold the push button and if the power drops out for a few 
seconds the phase converter does not try and restart without the start 
caps. I've not had the fun of blowing anything up when building them. 
They are all balanced phase to phase within a couple of volts. However 
phase to phase the run caps are very different in order to get the 
voltage phase to phase to balance. I can post some details if anyone is 
interested...

John

Dave wrote:
 Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some charts
 on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a cheap
 supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
 and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330 uf
 330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a push
 button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
 down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor spins
 up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay,
 like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
 it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large
 number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in
 via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the contactor
 drops out and the converter idler motor and he
 attached slave motors are powered down.

 The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when you
 consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to
 start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
 For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.   The
 rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the
 three phases and spins up
 the slaved motor.It works very well.

 During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting capacitors
 are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
 Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really
 fully balance.

 Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting caps
 go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only
 designed to be switched in for a few seconds.

 A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to do
 some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.

 Dave

 On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:


  
 On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.comwrote:



 Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with a
 3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all the
 math...


  


 Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for
 you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.

 Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-16 Thread Dave
Back when  I put my 10 hp phase converter together, I found some charts 
on the web someplace about suggested capacitor sizing.   I found a cheap 
supply of capacitors at Mendelson's in Dayton, Ohio
and bought a small box of them.   I ended up using I believe, 4 - 330 uf 
330 volt units as starting caps and 4- 135 uf run caps.I use a push 
button to start the motor and as long as I hold the button
down the starting caps are wired into the circuit.  When the motor spins 
up I release the button.   I tried to use a voltage sensitive relay, 
like the ones used on refrigeration systems and AC systems, but
it was not reliable probably due to the high current from the large 
number of caps.  There is also a motor contactor that seals itself in 
via the button push.   That way if the line power drops, the contactor 
drops out and the converter idler motor and he
attached slave motors are powered down.

The math relating to how this works gets even more complicated when you 
consider the effects of hooking a 3 phase motor that you are going to 
start (a slave motor)  across the the idling phase converter motor.
For a brief period of time, the idler motor becomes a generator.   The 
rotor slows slightly and the energy in the rotor pumps power into the 
three phases and spins up
the slaved motor.It works very well.

During experimentation, it is very obvious when more starting capacitors 
are required as the motor will simply not spin up.
Adding more run caps helps balance the phases but they never really 
fully balance.

Safety glasses are very good idea when experimenting.Starting caps 
go off like firecrackers if you overstress them.They are only 
designed to be switched in for a few seconds.

A source of cheap starting caps is a really good idea if you want to do 
some phase converter experimentation.  I blew up several of them.

Dave

On 3/14/2011 9:01 PM, Jon Elson wrote:

 On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com   wrote:

  
 Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with a
 3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all the
 math...



  
 Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for
 you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.

 Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Ed Nisley
On Mon, 2011-03-14 at 11:00 +, andy pugh wrote:
 which caused some worrying sizzling noises. 

Obviously, your radio isn't turned up nearly loud enough...

(Which helps with car repairs, too.)

-- 
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http://softsolder.com



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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread andy pugh
On 14 March 2011 15:30, gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

 If I read it right, it is being said that perhaps a capacitor of the
 correct value to create a usable phase lead, from L1 or L2 to L3, will
 start a 3 phase motor on single phase power, direction of the rotation
 dependent on which 2 the capacitor is connected to.

Yes, in fact this is how my coolant pump is wired. You don't get the
same power output, and the motor needs to have an external star point
so that it can be wired for the lower voltage, but it works fine.

In fact, many of the cheaper single phase motors are exactly that, a
three-phase motor and permanently connected capacitor, with no
centrifugal switch.
I don't know if it is still the case, but the single-phase motor we
bought from Machine Mart was exactly this, and had far too little
starting torque for the vehicle lift we wanted to run.
http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/230v-110v-single-phase-motors/path/single-phase-electric-motors

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread dave
On Mon, 2011-03-14 at 15:41 +, andy pugh wrote:
 On 14 March 2011 15:30, gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:
 
  If I read it right, it is being said that perhaps a capacitor of the
  correct value to create a usable phase lead, from L1 or L2 to L3, will
  start a 3 phase motor on single phase power, direction of the rotation
  dependent on which 2 the capacitor is connected to.
 
 Yes, in fact this is how my coolant pump is wired. You don't get the
 same power output, and the motor needs to have an external star point
 so that it can be wired for the lower voltage, but it works fine.
 
 In fact, many of the cheaper single phase motors are exactly that, a
 three-phase motor and permanently connected capacitor, with no
 centrifugal switch.
 I don't know if it is still the case, but the single-phase motor we
 bought from Machine Mart was exactly this, and had far too little
 starting torque for the vehicle lift we wanted to run.
 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/230v-110v-single-phase-motors/path/single-phase-electric-motors

My home built 5 Hp converter uses a ~240 uF starting cap and much less
than that on the legs. If you really want it right you adjust the caps
to get the voltage on the third leg correct. 

Pretty easy even without the mathematical analysis. Some things can be
done just by trial and error; usually more error than trial. ;-)
Copying someone else's example helps a lot, at least to get started. 

Dave
 


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Peter Blodow
Gentlemen,

using a phase pusher capacitor is a cheap and common workaround when a 
three phase supply isn't available. I have used this with a lathe for 
some time, since a machine like this doesn't need its full power most of 
the time and it always starts idling without load.

Ordinary three phase current runs 120 + 120 + 120 degrees  to  make a 
full revolution. If you have only two, this makes it 180 + 180 and won't 
run because there is no direction information in it.

A capacitor connected to one leg of the two-phase system produces a 90 
degree phase shift relative to this lead. Using this as a mock three 
phase system, you will have 180 + 90 +90 degrees for a revolution 
including a direction information, depending to which leg you connected 
the capacitor. The distribution is uneven which is the reason for 
reduced power, but better than nothing. Don't confuse this with a 
starter capacitor used to supply a direction information to a generic 
two phase motor! Those are for short time use with small motors only and 
blow their tops when used continously (because of faulty starter relay 
or so).

Of course, the size of the capacitor depends on the amount of current it 
has to supply to the third leg. Having learned from practice, I used at 
least 70 microfarads per kW to achieve about half the power the motor 
can deliver on a real three phase system. More capacity doesn't 
contribute much. The capacitors need to have a voltage rating of mains 
voltage times sqrt of 2. The cheapest way to get them ( I was a student 
then) was cannibalizing the current compensation capacitors from old 
flourescent lamps at the junk yard. I needed about a dozen of them, but 
at zero expense. Watch for  belly shaped tops, there is plenty of 
stinking smoke compressed by the factory in these aluminum cans!

Perter Blodow



andy pugh schrieb:
 On 14 March 2011 15:30, gene heskett ghesk...@wdtv.com wrote:

   
 If I read it right, it is being said that perhaps a capacitor of the
 correct value to create a usable phase lead, from L1 or L2 to L3, will
 start a 3 phase motor on single phase power, direction of the rotation
 dependent on which 2 the capacitor is connected to.
 

 Yes, in fact this is how my coolant pump is wired. You don't get the
 same power output, and the motor needs to have an external star point
 so that it can be wired for the lower voltage, but it works fine.

 In fact, many of the cheaper single phase motors are exactly that, a
 three-phase motor and permanently connected capacitor, with no
 centrifugal switch.
 I don't know if it is still the case, but the single-phase motor we
 bought from Machine Mart was exactly this, and had far too little
 starting torque for the vehicle lift we wanted to run.
 http://www.machinemart.co.uk/shop/range/details/230v-110v-single-phase-motors/path/single-phase-electric-motors

   


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Mon, 2011-03-14 at 17:58 +0100, Peter Blodow wrote:
... snip
 A capacitor connected to one leg of the two-phase system produces a 90 
 degree phase shift relative to this lead. Using this as a mock three 
 phase system, you will have 180 + 90 +90 degrees for a revolution 
 including a direction information, depending to which leg you connected 
 the capacitor. The distribution is uneven which is the reason for 
 reduced power, but better than nothing. Don't confuse this with a 
 starter capacitor used to supply a direction information to a generic 
 two phase motor! Those are for short time use with small motors only and 
 blow their tops when used continously (because of faulty starter relay 
 or so).

In case my attachment doesn't go through, here is my graphical study of
a rotary three phase converter:
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/EMC2/three_phase_converter-1a.png 

The 180 degree voltage phase shift is only an issue if neutral is used,
but it is not. I think the decrease in efficiency is due to using one
phase to try to generate two more and the currents are much higher than
normal. (Viva VFD's)


-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread andy pugh
On 14 March 2011 19:42, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:

 In case my attachment doesn't go through, here is my graphical study of
 a rotary three phase converter:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/EMC2/three_phase_converter-1a.png

You have 2-phase power?

In the UK we get one phase and line neutral. (Not that that actually
matters at all)

-- 
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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Igor Chudov
Kirk, I believe that now you got everything completely right.

i


On Mon, Mar 14, 2011 at 2:42 PM, Kirk Wallace
kwall...@wallacecompany.comwrote:

 On Mon, 2011-03-14 at 17:58 +0100, Peter Blodow wrote:
 ... snip
  A capacitor connected to one leg of the two-phase system produces a 90
  degree phase shift relative to this lead. Using this as a mock three
  phase system, you will have 180 + 90 +90 degrees for a revolution
  including a direction information, depending to which leg you connected
  the capacitor. The distribution is uneven which is the reason for
  reduced power, but better than nothing. Don't confuse this with a
  starter capacitor used to supply a direction information to a generic
  two phase motor! Those are for short time use with small motors only and
  blow their tops when used continously (because of faulty starter relay
  or so).

 In case my attachment doesn't go through, here is my graphical study of
 a rotary three phase converter:

 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/EMC2/three_phase_converter-1a.png

 The 180 degree voltage phase shift is only an issue if neutral is used,
 but it is not. I think the decrease in efficiency is due to using one
 phase to try to generate two more and the currents are much higher than
 normal. (Viva VFD's)


 --
 Kirk Wallace
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
 California, USA



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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Kirk Wallace
On Mon, 2011-03-14 at 14:54 -0500, Igor Chudov wrote:
 Kirk, I believe that now you got everything completely right.
 i
Thank you. This is why I value when people let me know when I may be
wrong.
-- 
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http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Peter Blodow
Hello Andy,
it's just the same here, if you separate the usual three phase supply 
into three separate 230 V-systems, each defined to ground. I was talking 
about a, say, small household, where only one of these phases is 
available. Other households in the same building may have others of the 
three phases. We used to call them R, S and T. Lacking the other 
p´hases, you can make a third phase for your household by means of a 
phase shifting capacitor and make a mock three phase system with reduced 
power beause of the unsymmetry. Don't care about the neutral line being 
grounded.

Peter Blodow

andy pugh schrieb:
 On 14 March 2011 19:42, Kirk Wallace kwall...@wallacecompany.com wrote:

   
 In case my attachment doesn't go through, here is my graphical study of
 a rotary three phase converter:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/EMC2/three_phase_converter-1a.png
 

 You have 2-phase power?

 In the UK we get one phase and line neutral. (Not that that actually
 matters at all)

   


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Peter Blodow
Kirk Wallace schrieb:
 On Mon, 2011-03-14 at 22:55 +0100, Peter Blodow wrote:
   
 Kirk,

 Neutral is not to be considered. You have two wires coming from the 
 supplier. Adding a capacitor makes three of them. The two mains lines 
 are 180  degrees apart by definition. The capacitor makes a third phase 
 90 degrees between them. Connect your motor, and it will be running, 
 regardless of which line is grounded.

 Peter Blodow
 

 Sort of. Your description above I believe matches my diagram showing the
 starting mode, or the middle picture:
 http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/EMC2/three_phase_converter-1a.png 

 In my original argument, I stated I thought L1 and L2 from the mains are
 180 degrees apart, because if you scope L1, you get a sine wave. If you
 scope L2, you get a sine wave that is shifted 180 degrees from the L1
 sine wave. The problem is that the scope uses ground or neutral as the
 reference for the L1 and L2 voltage. but the neutral is not used in the
 circuit so the 180 degrees doesn't apply or add to the understanding of
 how the circuit works. The only thing we know is that there is a single
 240 Volt sine wave when L1 is referenced to L2 or vis versa and this
 single wave is connected across a single phase on the converter motor.
 Once I drew this single phase wave on the A and B converter motor
 terminals, everything else flowed from that. The only time 180 degrees
 came to mind from developing this diagram was in considering the
 unconnected C terminal relative to A and B. C looks like a transformer
 center tap relative to A and B, so there should be a sine wave between
 L1 (A) and and C that is 180 degrees from L2 (B) and C. To me so far,
 this doesn't add anything to the understanding of the converter.
   
  You are considering a two phase system whichis actually a one phase 
system of, say, 230 volts per phase. In this case, everything is 
symmetrical, and each wire is 180 degrees apart form the other, 
regardless of which is grounded. One one them is defined as zero volts, 
so the other one will be 230 volts (therefore one phase). In a three 
phase system, three leads are carrying 230 volts per phase also, but 
considering the delta shape of the connection, beween them there will be 
a voltage of 230 volts times sqrt of three, approx. 400 volts. Imagine 
the whole thing as a regular triangle with three equal sides and the 
center grounded, it is easy to see that you can make three single 230 
volts AC circuits referenced to ground or neutral (which will not be 
delivered by the power supplier in every instance, but defined locally 
by grounding the center tap of the power line transformer station). This 
is  the basic great idea of three phase supply - transport 75% more 
energy by use of 50 % more wires, not counting the advantage of a 
direction of rotation information.

In summary, with a usual 230/400 volts  three phase system, you can 
split this into three single phase, 230 volts systems (L1, L2, L3 or R, 
S, T) referenced to ground (N) or use it as a 400 volts rotary system 
for motion devices, regardless of ground. In case of unavailability of 
the two other phases, use a phase shift capacitor to create your own 230 
volts  rotary system (with power drawbacks), wire your motor in delta 
230 volts and run your machines as good as they will run!

Peter Blodow



 My converter does have a pair of running capacitors and sometime I may
 try to apply the start capacitor logic to these to try to figure out how
 they work. My guess is that they store energy during the motor period
 and release it during the generating period of each shaft rotation, but
 I can't prove it, yet.
   


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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-14 Thread Jon Elson

 On 14 March 2011 10:50, John Thorntonbjt...@gmail.com  wrote:

 Is it not amazing that the hillbillies from backwoods Missouri with a
 3rd grade education can make a rotary phase converter without all the
 math...
  

Of course!  The trick is the windings in the motor do all the math for 
you, all you need to do is hook up the wires.

Jon

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Re: [Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-13 Thread Przemek Klosowski
On Wed, Mar 9, 2011 at 12:35 AM, Kirk Wallace
kwall...@wallacecompany.comwrote:

 Let me try to provide more details on my understanding of the phase
 timing of DIY converters. Attached is a schematic of a common rotary
 converter. The source is here:
 http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html
 http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/fig1.html

 I used this to make my converter and is the only design I have some
 understanding of. As the schematic shows L1 and L2 go straight to the
 output and are unaffected. Since L1 and L2 are single phase, L1 is a
 mirror of L2, therefore 180 degrees out of 360 apart.


But, but, you are committing a tautology. If you reference L1 to L2 and vice
versa, of course L1 is a mirror of L2. In your scheme there is no 'ground'
or reference point, so you only have one phase coming in, and the motor
generates the second (and third) phase L3, shifted with respect to L1/L2.
One way to see it comes from the trigonometric identity  holding that sum of
three sines shifted by 0, 120 and 240 degrees is zero:
sin(x)+sin(x+2*%pi/3)+sin(x+4*%pi/3)=0

Let's say we take some arbitrary reference point, so that L1(t) is the
voltage on the first leg. Assume L2(t)-L1(t) = V sin(2 pi f t). If the
converter generates L3(t)=L1(t)-V sin(2 pi f t + 2/3 pi), then L1-L3 is V
sin(2 pi f t + 2/3 pi), i.e. shifted by 120 degrees, and L3-L2 is -V sin(2
pi f t + 2/3pi) - V sin(2 pi f t)  which reduces to V sin(x+4*%pi/3) i.e.
the same AC shifted 240 degrees. Note that it doesn't matter what the
reference point is, because its potential L1(t) drops out --- all that
matters are voltage differences between the legs of the circuit, not the
potentials of the legs themselves.
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[Emc-users] Single to Three Phase Rotary Converters

2011-03-08 Thread Kirk Wallace
Let me try to provide more details on my understanding of the phase
timing of DIY converters. Attached is a schematic of a common rotary
converter. The source is here:
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/ph-conv.html 
http://www.metalwebnews.com/howto/ph-conv/fig1.html 

I used this to make my converter and is the only design I have some
understanding of. As the schematic shows L1 and L2 go straight to the
output and are unaffected. Since L1 and L2 are single phase, L1 is a
mirror of L2, therefore 180 degrees out of 360 apart.

Attached is a diagram showing my understanding of the single phase house
connection. A single wire, or single phase, is fed at street level to a
pole transformer with the primary terminated to ground. The secondary
reduces the voltage to 240V. The center tap goes to ground and the
voltage of each leg is 120 volts and one leg appears inverted, in
reference to ground, to the other.

Back to the converter, L3 is derived from a combination of L1 and L2 and
the back EMF from the idler motor. My best guess is that the phase angle
is half way at 90 or 270 degrees. But L1 and L2 are still 180.

In searching for Scott-T, I found this page:
http://cableorganizer.com/articles/three-phase-electric-power.html 

which states:
 Some devices are made which create an imitation three-phase from
three-wire single phase supplies. This is done by creating a third
subphase between the two live conductors, resulting in a phase
separation of 180° − 90° = 90°. Many three-phase devices will run on
this configuration, but at lower efficiency. 

Later in the page, it states:
 Two-phase power may be obtained from a three-phase system using an
arrangement of transformers called a Scott-T transformer. 

I am assuming two phase power is like a quadrature pair of signals.
 Special-purpose systems may use a two-phase system for control. 

and not like single or three phase, unless the power company only runs
L1h and L2h out to your pole.

Also see:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase_electric_power 
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scott-T_transformer 

I'm not trying to say anybody is wrong, but I haven't seen anything that
has convinced me that I am.
-- 
Kirk Wallace
http://www.wallacecompany.com/machine_shop/
http://www.wallacecompany.com/E45/index.html
California, USA
attachment: fig1.gifattachment: mains.png--
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