Re: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles
What about 1890's hairstyles? That's my favorite. Yours in costumign, Lisa A -- Original Message -- From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] 1880s hairstyles Date: Thu, 20 Oct 2011 16:39:08 -0700 The request was for 1880s hairstyles. I love the Rapunzel site, but don't remember if anything there is a good match for 1880s. The hallmark of 1880s hair is frizzy bangs! Perhaps a clip of fakehair for the front of your style would work. The rest of the hair was worn either under the hat (atop the head) or below it (toward the nape), but can be almost anything. The frizzy bangs (and no center part) are the most visible style detail. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] What's your dressmaker's dummy wearing today?
I have several dress forms, since I find them at estate sales and yard sales One is wearing my purple costume from last Balticon (May 2011 convention in Baltimore) called Something Purple This Way Comes. It has a HUGE beaded collar (somethingl ike 8 lbs) over the shoulders, and a nice straw hat on it that will be used for another Victorian parody. Another is modeling the skirt and overskirt combination from a parody of a Tudor skirt and overskirt that I made many years ago in Hawaiian tropical fabrics, and that I am making over for a Victorian silly costumes (very colorful though; the overskirt is a fabric with all sharks). Upstairs, the dress form has one of my 1861 outfits, this one, I re-made the swallowtail bodice pattern into a one-piece belted dress, in a lively beige and brown cotton print with a design of small diamonds with little flowers and wheat sheaves in t he middle of the diamonds. I was reseraching for a dress for Sarah Ballou, made a two-piece dress with a deep blue printed fabric, saw the beige and brown at Surplus City in LaVale, near Cumberland, Maryland on one of our trips through there, and it spoke to me. I am going to do a scene from Little Women with it. My other T-stands have various costumes on them in bright colors to keep me cheerful and remind me how creative costuming is. Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Has anyone here beaded garments with real stones
Actually, I was talking about sewing on beads, onto a fase of thick wool felt backed with interfacing. I don't do much jewelry making with wires, although I have in the past. I am more interested in sewing. But again, it is by hand and is a bit time consuming, if making a piece that is really large. I frequently make large bead-embroidered collars, which are actually morel ike beaded pictures, with cabochons and seed beads and bugle beads in various configurations; then I add a 3D component by over-beading on top of that. I get some interesting effects, and have worked w ith many different color schemes and found objects, which it from getting dull. I generally back my large pieces with some heavy taffeta or ultrasuede, and the small pieces, such as brooches, with leather. Yours in costumign, Lisa A On Mon, 03 Oct 2011 19:31:20 -0700 Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com writes: Instead of trying to sew them directly on to hte dress, why not make a really over-the-top beaded collar with them? I am tempted to take up jewelry making, since I am fascinated by the colors of stones. I have what is probably an illusion that all I need is wire, pretty but low-grade semiprecious gems, and skill with pliers. I have a lot of design ideas. However, I have so much to do thinking of taking on another hobby feels rather exhausting. How easy is it to do the make the kind of jewelry that requires wire but not, as far as I can tell, soldering? I don't really have a workspace for soldering. Seems kind of toxic for the kitchen table. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Has anyone here beaded garments with real stones
As some one who does a great deal of beadwork, several things come to mind. First, use the correct thread, not regular sewing thread. Beading thread comes in different thicknesses. Second, if there is an area of the fabric to which you are going to multiple stones, some sort of interfacing is advisable under the fabric. When I do large beaded areas, I use fairly heavy interfacing. A regular beading needle should work fine; there is also a very long, narrow awl-like tool with that is a diamond file for enlarging holes in beads and stones that works pretty well. My cleaning experiences have not been good, so I never plan on having to dry-clean those garments. I spot-clean if necessary. Instead of trying to sew them directly on to hte dress, why not make a really over-the-top beaded collar with them? Yours in cosutming,Lisa A On Mon, 03 Oct 2011 15:13:09 -0700 Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com writes: I just received in a mail (from India) a large multiple strand of little citrines, pretty but almost certainly not of the highest gem quality. If nothing else the stringing is awful and I hate the clasp, so they'd need to be restrung. But, they are essentially beads, a teardrop shape with a hole pierced through across the narrow end. So I might be able to sew them to cloth assuming I can get a narrow enough needle. Problem: I am sure they will wash, being stones, but I am not sure they will dry clean. And I think they'd work best attached to a medium weight to heavy, dry-cleanable, rather fancy fabric. Has anyone tried using real stones for beading and dry cleaning them? Or should I just have them restrung into a better quality of necklace? Thanks for any info. Fran Lavolta Press Books of historic clothing patterns www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 100 Years of East London Style in 100 seconds
Wow! Brilliant--extremely well done. Yours in costuming, Lisa a On Thu, 8 Sep 2011 08:08:38 -0500 Vicki Betts vbe...@gower.net writes: As posted on Cliopatria: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7JxfgId3XTs Vicki Betts ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Article on new research into material goods
Fascinating article. Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Sun, 28 Aug 2011 14:07:21 -0700 Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com writes: http://www.boston.com/bostonglobe/ideas/articles/2011/06/05/empty_trash_b uy_milk_forge_history/?page=1 Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com www.facebook.com/LavoltaPress ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] dressing pins for 19th cdresses
I was just at a flea market near Winchester VA and from a dealer who also had some interesting vintage buttons, I bough a small box of what look like the description of the dressing pins as per the recent discussion of such. They are blued straight pins, with black glass heads, and the pins are about 1 1/4 inch long each. They are in fantastic condition, although not in an original container (they were in a tiny square white cardboard box from a jeweler in PA). A fwe of them have some rust on t hem, but because of the blueing, it comes off easily. There are a fwe regular silver-color pins in with them. Do these sound like the real thing? Yours in coustming,Lisa a ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Where is everyone hanging out these days?
I joined temporarily in about 2003 or so, I'm not sure exactly, when I was asking for everyone's comments on the vintage phtoo of my great-grandmother, to help me in reproducing th e dress she wore in thephoto. Then I dropped out.the volume of mail was just too much for what I was going through after that, with my Mom sick. I rejoined about 3 years ago, when I was researching the Civil War era to re-create a dress, and also joined Godey's Lady's Book.com, and have learned so much from everyone and made a few lasting friends. Right now, with one of the extra dressesI made of the CW period, since I needed a whole wardrobe, including a wool winter coat, I am planning a costume presentation about Little Women. Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Mon, 8 Aug 2011 01:08:13 -0400 penn...@costumegallery.com writes: So here are the questions...how did you find the h-costume email list? And what year did you join? It will be really interesting how the newbies have found it. I found it as one of two costume email lists in 1996 on AOL. Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/10749841596157 9 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] July Event at the Riversdale House Museum
Although this sounds like a hoot and lots of fun, and is actually local to me (I live in Ashton, MD), I am already obligated for a word day prio to my County Fair that day. Yours in cosutming, Lisa a On Fri, 17 Jun 2011 09:21:13 -0400 annbw...@aol.com writes: The Art of Housewifery Riversdale House Museum 4811 Riverdale Road, Riverdale Park MD 20737 Saturday, July 16, 2011 9:30 am to 4:00 pm Spend the day learning skills the early 19th century housewife used to manage her household efficiently. Create ensembles from reproduction apparel and accessories, sort out layers of bed linens and mark your own items to take home; keep household accounts; churn butter and prepare cold side dishes for lunch; harvest and use herbs from the garden; and taste teas and choose your favorite to take home. Katie Cannon of Ageless Artifice will demonstrate stain removal, moth prevention, and insect fumigation techniques. Cost of the program is $60, and advance payment is required by July 8. Call 301-864-0420 or email riversd...@pgparks.com for more information. Ann Wass ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Hi Penny-- Yes, that was probably mine. In my defense, it's not that unusual to have a notebook--and I had only 5 pages of actual text about the costume pieces, and the remaining pages werefilled with drawings, diagrams of specific parts (I.e. the dropped armscye, the pleating on the skirt), and many, many photos with captions. I had photos of extant garments I had exadmined, and actual vintage photos of hte time, and phtoocopies from PEtersons and Godey's showing examples of what I was doing. And I also had a Timeline of the Industrial Age, and a bibliography of course. It ended up being quite long, but fast to read, becasue it was mostly pictures and captions. My documentaion is going to be published later this year in Virtual Costumer online. http://www.siwcostumers.org/vc_contents.html The documentation was out on Monday Morning for a while on what had been the Toronto bid table downstairs across from t he Exhibit area. Yours in coustming, Lisa A On Wed, 11 May 2011 01:34:40 -0400 penn...@costumegallery.com writes: Lisa, I heard a rumor that an entry in the historic category had an entire notebook of documentation for their costume. Was that you? Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/10749841596157 9 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Hi Penny-- It was great to see you again (although I think you didn't recognize me at first),, and your photos are anticipated. I was very lazy about taking photos myself because I Was so busy otherwise--2 big competitions, including hte Historicala with pre-judging, 2 tech rehearsals (although those went extremely smooth), 4 panels including Friday, where I was in t he Workshop area for open beading for 4 hours, a round table discussion. Also having to eat. And put on hall costumes. I'm hoping next year might be a bit less busy, but I already am planning on something enw for the historical masquerade. Thank you for your compliments. For me, the greatest joy is in the process. The documentation for the costume of Sarah Ballou from the Historical Masq. is going to be published in Virtual Costumer, later this year. I hope that if you are ever out this way--East Coast--Maryland--you will contact me. Yours in costuming, Lis aA On Mon, 9 May 2011 02:04:50 -0400 penn...@costumegallery.com writes: Lisa, I am working on the photos that I took of you at Costume-Con. I applaud for doing an excellent job in matching your fabric prints up on your dress's seams. WOW! Matching up prints is such a lot art. I also converted a couple of your photos to black white. I think you will be pleased. Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/10749841596157 9 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Yes, indeed. And thank you,, all of you who helped answer my questions and encouraged me (I did give hte H-costume list credit in my Bibliog.!) Yours in cosutming,L isa A On Sat, 7 May 2011 01:19:16 -0700 Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org writes: I believe this is you? at about minute 20:45, http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4FUACCHaNgE very nice. chimene On May 3, 2011, at 3:40 PM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War era dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called The Letter. At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks! It took me 4 fabric stores to find the exact right shade of green for the piping--the green that is part of the dress print actually has a great deal of yellow in it and was hard to find. It was a great masquerade and I am thrilled with how the presentation came out. Yours in coustming,Lisa A On Thu, 5 May 2011 04:57:24 -0400 penn...@costumegallery.com writes: Lisa, I was just looking on your CW dress. The piping looks great and matches the print perfectly. Penny Ladnier, owner The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 15 websites of fashion, costume, and textile history FaceBook: http://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Costume-Gallery-Websites/10749841596157 9 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thank you Kristin! We really felt like we were chanelling the Ballous, we weren't anxious or nervous, we just took a deep breath backstage, and knew who we were. And Im still excited about Civil War era clothing; I bought hte 1861 Paletot coat pattern at the 18660's conference and am looking forward to making it out of a lovely cream wool I bought a few weeks ago. Now it's back to work and the mundane world, unfortunately. Yours incosutming, Lisa A On Tue, 3 May 2011 19:19:58 -0700 Kristin Stonham nat...@earthlink.net writes: On 3 May 2011 15:40, Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War era dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called The Letter. At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I must say that we pretty much had everyone in the audience in tears (even the tech crew got weepy at our rehearsal, and that was without the costumes on). You certainly had me in tears! Your presentation and your costumes were exquisite. Congratulations on your well-deserved win! --Kristin Stonham ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Costume Con 29 is over. And I won major awards with the Civil War era dress of Sarah Ballou, in a historical presentation we called The Letter. At some point I may be able to put up video ofi t, but I must say that we pretty much had everyone in the audience in tears (even the tech crew got weepy at our rehearsal, and that was without the costumes on). I want to thank everyone on the H-costume list for their knowledgeable answers to my many questions over the past 12 months, and I want to thank all the folks at the Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860's conference in March of 2011 as well, for a conference that really got me thinking and was very illuminating. My reserach that I wrote up as the documentation for the costume, will be published later this year in the Virtual Costumer: online costume magazine. I have an article in an issue from last year, about re-creating my great-grandmother's first day dress from about 1896. The magazine's older issues are open to the public, and the current issue is password-protected for about the first month. http://www.siwcostumers.org/vc_current-issue.html There will also be photos of that costume, and my Fantasy and SF Masquerade costume Mistress of All Hallows up on Costume Gallery. Thank you all again, and I really enjoy the discussions. Yours in costuming, Lisa a ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Dating vintage sewing stuff
If you want to scan in some photos of the vintage buttons,Im pretty good with identifying glass Czech buttons from pre-Communist, to Communist, to post-communist, having been to the Czech Rep. twice on trips for beads and buttons. And they do sound yummy. Yours in coustming, LisaA On Thu, 28 Apr 2011 01:25:51 -0400 Elena House exst...@gmail.com writes: Speaking of costume-related inheritances, I recently inherited my 93-year old grandma-in-law's sewing stuff--all of it, including some stuff she probably should have thrown away 50 years ago! But since I find old wooden bobbins with only a couple of feet of thread left on them fascinating, I'm definitely not complaining. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] historical stuff (some costume related)
Whatever you do, please do keep the photos, and if they are identified, as you say, there may be someone in the family who cares about them. IT would be amazing if somehow you had the time to scan everything, and add text. I persoanlly collect Victorian photos, since I have only about 3 from my own family (although a few going back to WWI). They are treasures. I Would suspect that your local historical society (county or state) would love to take them off your hands (but you should scan them first) Yours in cosutmign,Lisa A On Wed, 27 Apr 2011 14:09:18 -0500 Land of Oz lando...@netins.net writes: I inherited a crapton of stuff from my grandmother's house. It's been stored dry, but not clean, in my brother's barn for about 10 years until I brought it home last weekend. There was a lot more than I brought, but I try not to think about that. infinite storage. My brother kept it all, but didn't do anything with it either. I doubt much of it has a lot of value to people who aren't related to the family in some way. Denise Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Henry VIII, embroiderer?
Wow, thank you so much, the video was amazing, and what an interesting topic! I wish I could enroll there for a few years Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Sun, 17 Apr 2011 17:33:26 -0700 Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org writes: Royal School of Needlework, Hampton Court, on CBS Sunday morning today. Took some hunting but I finally found it: http://www.cbsnews.com/video/watch/?id=7363014n enjoy chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions
I have found the gores to be very useful fitting the bust and hip areas of a corset, when the waist size and length are correct, but the bust and hip areas need more space. The great thing about them is, they can be easily adjusted for cup size on the bust, and for the hip ones, they can be wider or narrower, while leaving the waist size where it should be. They are not difficult, they just take more time to sew in correctly, but then, corsets are very labor-intensive and require very accurate sewing. I have had some fun with gores by using either a contrasting fabric, or adding lace overlays to them, etc. Yours in cosutming, Lis aA On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 12:10:49 -0700 Sharon Collier sha...@collierfam.com writes: I'm showing my ignorance here, but I want to learn so... Why use gores at all? Why not just incorporate that extra bit into the main panel of the corset, as an extra flared bit on the end? Sharon C. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Corset patterns and research questions
My experience has been that making a corset with gores is actually a VERY good way to fit it, especially when fitting someone with a challenging shape (i.e. very round, wide hips but hardly any bust, etc). I have primarily used the Laughing Moon Victorian Underwear corset--the Silverado, which comes with a selection of 4 possible bust gores (although I have taken the liberty of modifying the pattern to accomodate hip gores if more necessary) . Gores are small and it makes the pattern a bit more labor intensive, so for someone who is inexperienced it can be dfificult. I myself, have never had a problem with using hte gores, I just go slowly. The pattern instructions included, while generally good, don't really address how to place the boning when using various sizes of gores, but I figured it out myself and have had good success. The Laughing Moon one is the only corset pattern Ive used with gores, but since I started with fantasy corsets, I haven't used many historical patterns,i nstead I've developed my own and modified others for myself. I do teach classes in making a corset, and the first thing we do is measure and fit to develop a correctly sized pattern for that person, then they make a permanent pattern. I think your objective sounds fantastic. Yours in cosutming, Lis aA On Thu, 24 Mar 2011 05:15:34 -0400 Michael Deibert michaeljdeib...@gmail.com writes: Good morning everyone! I'm doing some research into corsets, and thought it best to start on here where many of you already have research. While I know a lot regarding corsets, I have two main focuses. The first is regarding corset patterns. I am hoping to develop a corset pattern and thus would like to be able to have as many corset patterns to base it off of as I can. While any corset pattern works, I am specifically hoping to find Victorian era corset patterns with hip and/or bust gores. From the many companies out there currently selling commercial pattersn, there are few who focus on corsets with gores. I am looking at trying to simplify the process of grading for different sizes, and believe that there might be a way to accomplish this with gored patterns. So if any of you have or know of patterns that I can get, please direct me in that direction! (Remember copyright laws and direct me to where I can find things, rather than just copy and paste.) Second, the little research I've done so far indicates that during the Victorian eras, there were many corset patterns that used gores - yet many of the current commercial patterns focus on those without. Is there a reason for this that anyone might be aware of? Is it easier to fit without gores? Are gored patterns more difficult to make up? Any help in this direction is also a huge plus! Please don't shy away, the more I can accumulate, the better my final pattern shall be once it is ready! Thanks in advance! Michael Deibert ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Threads of Feeling Exhibition
WOW. Not only very moving, but being able to really look closely at the fabrics, ribbons and embroidery was wonderful. Yours in cosutming, Li sa a On Tue, 22 Mar 2011 09:52:34 + Linda Walton linda.wal...@dsl.pipex.com writes: Here is a link to the exhibition of textile items left with abandoned babies at the London Foundling Hospital in the eighteenth century. There are all sorts of things - ribbons, sleeves, embroidery, prints, fabrics of all sorts, along with the contemporary description. Warning: it's very sad! http://www.threadsoffeeling.com/ If you click on the writing under the Coram logo, it should go to a slide show, (with the same web address, so I can't give it separately), which shows the samples pinned to the pages of the register, one page completed for each foundling admitted. Linda Walton, (in High Wycombe, Buckinghamshire, U.K.). ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Authenticity
Delurking here: My take on this, from the point of view of someone who began in historical re-creating costumes by trying to accurate re-create my great-grandmother's marriage photo from c. 1895: It is exciting to learn about each period, and what was normal and average for them, by actually making the outfit, as closely as possible to techniques that could have been used, with equipment and notions known to exist then. So for me, now learning about the Civil War era, to recreate an actual person known to have lived (their clothing--I am NOT a re-enactor), the more I learn about the sewingmachines of hte time, what might have been done by hand, the history of the Industrial Age at that time, what dyes and colors were available, What undergarments were worn to shape the outside, what fabrics might have been available to a specific social class in a particular location, it's all a continuum. Context is, truly, everything. And re-inventing the wheel, as I had to with the Great-grandmother dress, in order to make the decorative soutache swirls accurately, definitely gave me a much stronger connection; as has making my collars and cuffs for my Civil War era dresses by hand. I would say that for many of us, personal interest is a very strong motivator. Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 02:26:24 GMT R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu writes: Every time this topic of authenticiy rolls around,.. interpret our knowledge and understanding of what the original might really have looked like and to replicate it to the best of our own craft and other sewing abilities. Sometimes as we attempt tore-invent the wheelwe might have a personal epiphany to comprehend the secrets of treasure we are trying to gain for ourselves. Absolute authenticity is a moving target, because the more we know, the more details there are that are harder t0 reach. That leads into the next question ? where to substitute modern ... Some of these methods become a labor of love, a desire to learn a technique for its own sake. ... Beyond that, as above, it starts to depend on personal interest in a particular technique or a desire to learn the techniques of a particular era. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hoop storage
I hang my hoopskirts up (they stay pretty flat) on a large hanger in a large part of hte closet. OR else I have one or two them set up with outfits on the dress forms around the hosue. Yours in costuming, LisaA On Sun, 13 Mar 2011 18:01:46 -0700 Laurie Taylor costume...@mazarineblue.com writes: What I'd really like to know is how did Robert Heinlein make all the extra room in the car? But I'll settle for asking how do you all store your hoop skirts or hoped petticoats or what ever term you prefer? What can be safely done to them to minimize the space that they require? And if you've read Heinlein and know the answer to that question, I'm waiting Laurie T. Phoenix ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Authenticity
YES!!! Sometimes experiments are necessary to understand the process--this kind of sums it up for me--I am all about the process. The fact that I compete my costumes at SF cons and my county fair and Costume Con--those are secondary to the actual PROCESS. Yours i n costumign,Lisa A One experience of mine that might be closer to Michael's intended discussion: I was learning about mid-18thC French women's clothing, particularly the corset which is more like English jumps: a shaping upper-body garment not as firm as stays. The information was that paper was used as an inner layer, but the instructor recommended heavy weight Pellon. I decided to try paper, using a card-weight parchment. It held the shape ok, but crinkled a bit. I don't know if there are extant corsets where you can see the type of paper used. Sometimes experiments are necessary to understand the process. -Carol ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Con
Dear Robin-- If you are planning on attending this year's Costume Con in NJ, would you be interested in doing a talk or two? I am the Programming Director for hte con. Your talks are always well-attended and very appreciated. Yours in cosutming, Lisa a On Tue, 01 Feb 2011 01:00:48 -0600 Robin Netherton ro...@netherton.net writes: Catching up on stacked-up e-mail... ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume Con
Being a panelist at a Costume Con doesn't mean that anyone will think you are an expert, only that you may have a different perspective on t he topic than the costumer sitting next to you. At my first CC, I Was on one panel, it was bit intimidiating ofr me (and I didn't even KNOW anyoneyet!) but the moderator made sure to give me a bit of time to explain how I did things so at least I felt I added a voice to the topic. Please do come; you don't have to be a panelist, but it is just SO WONDERFUL to be with a large group of like-minded people who understand what you love to do and why you do it. IT's about that simple. So come for whatever parts of it you can--I guanrantee you'll have a blast and we defintiely do not bite. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A On Thu, 27 Jan 2011 15:04:28 -0500 Stacey Dunleavy anastas...@gmail.com writes: Sorry about that, chief - I'm spoiled with the email software that notes names at the top. Ann - are you the same Ann who worked with Whitney and made the amazing socks and dolls? I feel I have no amount of expertise and I couldn't possibly be a panelist. I'm trying to get a design for the single pattern competition, however. On the downside, I can't make Saturday because my company changed our schedules and we have to work that day. *Maybe* I can make the social ... Stacey Dunleavy ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume con
ACtually I have both of you on several panels. And if anyone on this list, has expertise/interest/ desire to share their passion about historical or ethnic costume, of any historical period or location, pls contact me at lis...@juno.com and let's see what panels we can make of it. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 23:08:47 -0600 Pierre Sandy Pettinger costu...@radiks.net writes: We're attending Costume-Con and running the Science Fiction/Fantasy Masquerade. Please consider entering! We'll probably also be doing some panels - at least one on the Archives (right, Lisa?) P S At 09:01 PM 1/25/2011, you wrote: I will be attending Costume-Con and teaching how to make self-stuffed cloth buttons. Ann in CT --- On Tue, 1/25/11, Stacey Dunleavy anastas...@gmail.com wrote: I'm coming out of lurkdom to ask; is anybody going to Costume Con? It's down the block from me this year, so I have no excuse. International Costumers' Guild Archivist http://www.costume.org/gallery2/main.php Those Who Fail to Learn History Are Doomed to Repeat It; Those Who Fail To Learn History Correctly - Why They Are Simply Doomed. Achemdro'hm The Illusion of Historical Fact -- C. Y. 4971 Andromeda ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Costume con
If you are attending, would you like to be a panelist for a historical costume panel? Anyone on the list, pls do contact me, if you are attending and would be willing to be on a historical costume panel. And pls do make suggestions what you panels you think would be interesting! Yours in costuming, Lis aA Programming Director for CC29 On Tue, 25 Jan 2011 21:23:52 -0500 Stacey Dunleavy anastas...@gmail.com writes: I'm coming out of lurkdom to ask; is anybody going to Costume Con? It's down the block from me this year, so I have no excuse. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Your family and costuming genes
My son enjoyed doing SF and fantasy costumes on stage with at SF cons when he was younger (he is now finishing law school). My daughter, not so much, although she clearly liked that I could make her a HAlloween costume on the spot and do makeup. My Mom could sew, but she never understood going beyond the pattern--she stuck to patterns obstinately, also as she became a very talented stained glass artist--again, always stuck to the patterns. I think I get hte costuming gene more from my grandmothers, who although very different, were also both very artistic. Yours inc osutming, Lisa A Quoting penn...@costumegallery.com: I was re-reading Margo's post and it got me to thinking...How many of our family members are enjoying costuming since we became a member of h-costume? Or maybe inherited the costuming gene? If so what kind of costuming? ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] (no subject)
However this was sent out--your email/computer has been hacked--it is an online pharmacy Lisa a On Mon, 10 Jan 2011 08:00:51 -0800 (PST) Kimiko Small sstormwa...@yahoo.com writes: http://thestylecloud.com/images/images.html ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hair work
Thanks--I already ordered it and since our holiday didn't happen because of me working, felt I didn't mind the splurge. Being over 50, I tend to work better with an actual book than by computer screen, and I don't have a tablet computer or a smaller device either. (Also, I tend to write about my projects in the margins of my books at times). So I don't mind having the book and LAcis had it for the lowest price. I want to ahve a piece of work done by Costume con in late April, but I have so many other projects PLUS I am the Program Director for hte con, so you can imagine that I am plenty busy witih that. I'll let you all know how it's going. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 17:53:08 -0800 Julie Tamura jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com writes: Thanks for the recommendation---I ordered the book, surprisingly, Lacis had it for less than Amazon, but it does look like what I need to do this. IT could be a whole new venture for me, esp. since I could learn to make the findings from PMC. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A *** Oops - sorry, I just saw this. I've been buying everything I can find on hair work. I found this book as a free download on Google Books. It's not a crystal clear copy but you could see if it's what you want. Julie in Ramona ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hair work
Also thanks formentioning Google Books. I will be checking that out for other things. Yours in costuming, Lis aA On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 17:53:08 -0800 Julie Tamura jtkn...@jtknits.cts.com writes: Thanks for the recommendation---I ordered the book, surprisingly, Lacis had it for less than Amazon, but it does look like what I need to do this. IT could be a whole new venture for me, esp. since I could learn to make the findings from PMC. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A *** Oops - sorry, I just saw this. I've been buying everything I can find on hair work. I found this book as a free download on Google Books. It's not a crystal clear copy but you could see if it's what you want. Julie in Ramona ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] question on corset patterns
The LAughing Moon Corset is the one I use to teach my corset workshops, although I use both the Dore and the Silverado. The Silverado has the advantage of having bust gores, which make it much easier to adjust the bust fit (they can also be used as hip gores if extra fabric isneeded at the hip.). I would say that the instructions aren't bad, although I have my own corset method, which makes a much more durable corset than Ive ever made from a published pattern. The main thing, is to get the size right--and that means make a muslin! And make sure the side areas aren't rubbing too high. I haven't made a corset from TV patterns, although other patterns Ive used from TV, including many bodices, skirts and jackets, have worked out extremely well. Yours in cosutming,Lisa A On Fri, 7 Jan 2011 16:02:49 -0600 Rebecca Schmitt lotsofteap...@charter.net writes: I am planning on making a bodice and dress from Truly Victorian's line (TV490 Ball Gown Bodice TV298 Umbrella Skirt, both from 1892). But, of course before that, I need a corset! I went to GBACG Pattern Review, and found nothing on TV's corset, but lots of great reviews on Laughing Moon's Dore corset. My usual era is Elizabethan, so if I wear a corset, it is of a very different construction. I would consider myself an intermediate sewer. Question: Do you prefer TV or LM corset, especially for a first-time Victorian sewer? Rebecca Schmitt aka Agness Cabot, Guilde of St. Lawrence, Bristol Renn Faire * ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hair work
Thanks for the recommendation---I ordered the book, surprisingly, Lacis had it for less than Amazon, but it does look like what I need to do this. IT could be a whole new venture for me, esp. since I could learn to make the findings from PMC. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A On Tue, 04 Jan 2011 14:10:17 -0600 Emily Gilbert emchantm...@gmail.com writes: On 12/31/2010 10:46 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian hair lockets/brooches? It's my dearest wish to start making these. Hi Lisa, I don't know whether it's exactly what you had in mind, but Lacis publishes a reprint of an 1875 book called The Art of Hair Work by Mark Campbell (shown here: http://lacis.com/catalog/). It mainly seems to involve the different types of braid you can make. Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Costume Con 29
Hello everyone, Lisa Ashton here. I am the PRogram Director for Costume Con 29 to be held at the end of April in Hasbrouck Heights, NJ. http://cc29nj.com/default.aspx We would LOVE to have you come and join us in t he costume adventure. If you are attending, I would LOVE to put you on a panel or two about historical costumes, using primary sources, or if you ahve a special costume itnerest. Please feel free to email me directly, or through the website if you would like to be a program participant. Single Day memberships will also be available at the door. Unfortunately , I am not able to offer any complimentary memberships, even if you are participating--the convention is too small to allow it, even the Committee members pay themembership fee. But it will be a great time! Yours in costuming, Lisa A lis...@juno.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hair work
That sounds terrific. I hope to have read the book, and possibly even started a project by then, but we'll see. I was planning on bringing my two vintage pieces to show and get comments on as well, I wore one of them with my first 1861 recreation dress at Philcon (a SF con in theP hila. area every November), I competed with a friend from Philly who made a Union Officer's uniform, and we won Best in Show. And we looked great, I thought. Right now I'm beginning another dress, becasue I'm at the conference for several days and I want to ahve an extra outtfit. Too much else to do for other conventions (not to mention my actual job to pay teh mortgage) to attempt a ballgown of the era at this point, but hopefully in the future. Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Sat, 8 Jan 2011 13:51:56 -0500 Lists li...@genteelarts.com writes: Lisa - There will be a merchant in the Marketplace at the 1860s Conference that makes very nice reproduction hair jewelry. She may have some suggestions on learning the craft and where to find findings, etc. Another merchant always has a great selection of original hair jewelry for sale or inspiration. Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian hair lockets/brooches? It's my dearest wish to start making these. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] hair work
Findings are actually not a problem for me, as I make beaded jewelry already, and have those types of finding around, mostly in silver. PLUS, I have all the needed supplies, torches, etc., to make my own findings from precious metal clay, whether silver or gold, and this may be the perfect chance to learn to do that. When I get home from work I will check out the book online. I actually own two lovely pieces of hair work--make that 3--one is a watch fob with gold ends, and two are lockets with glass fronts--one is a brooch andthe other a pendant. The gold frames for them are wonderful and they are in very good condition. Yours in cosutming, Lisa a. -- Original Message -- From: Marjorie Wilser the3t...@gmail.com To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] hair work Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 13:06:30 -0800 The Campbell book is excellent. I bought it years ago, intending to play around with hairwork, and didn't-- but it explains the process very very well indeed. The main issue is obtaining parts-- chain ends, fastenings, and jewelry findings. I never put the time into that part of things. == Marjorie Wilser =:=:=:Three Toad Press:=:=:= Learn to laugh at yourself and you will never lack for amusement. --MW http://3toad.blogspot.com/ On Jan 4, 2011, at 12:10 PM, Emily Gilbert wrote: On 12/31/2010 10:46 AM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian hair lockets/brooches? It's my dearest wish to start making these. Hi Lisa, I don't know whether it's exactly what you had in mind, but Lacis publishes a reprint of an 1875 book called The Art of Hair Work by Mark Campbell (shown here: http://lacis.com/catalog/). It mainly seems to involve the different types of braid you can make. Emily ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book review
You all are pretty persuasive--I just ordered this on Amazon and my toal was only $6.93. Im willing to take a chance for that, and it sounds like a great book! (like I need another costume-related book..after the incredible stuff I found over the summer at flea markets). Anyway, my holiday season was pretty much taken up by working 4 days in a row, and I have two night shifts coming (I;'m a PA in an ER) so I deserve a little something, eh? Thanks for all the book recommendations and always itneresting topics. Does anyone have a book suggestion for learining to make Victorian hair lockets/brooches? It's my dearest wish to start making these. Yours in cosutming,Lisa A On Thu, 30 Dec 2010 22:08:19 -0500 Leah Janette bear_ja...@msn.com writes: I would say it is definately worth getting, but not at that price! It was also published in English as The Pictorial Encyclopedia of Fashion and you can find it on Amazon for a much better price and only $4 shipping from the U.S. vendors: http://www.amazon.com/PICTORIAL-ENCYCLOPEDIA-FASHION-Ludmila-Kybalova/dp/ B000HJVBWU/ref=sr_1_3?s=booksie=UTF8qid=1293764244sr=1-3 It has a great collection of black and white pictures, some of which are obscure. No re-drawings, only the actual art! Janet ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I went ahead and used a very spring green for piping on fabric that was a navy blue with very small white and green flower patterns. It was a ctually quite difficult and took me to 3 separate stores to find the correct green that had enough yellow in it, but it was a great match and looks really nice, since there is very little ornamentation. But the little photo of Mrs. Lincloln's dress will become part of my documentation for my dress with the contrasting piping. The double piping sounds really intriguing, I would loveto see a photo or reference for it. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 11:11:24 -0800 Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com writes: I have seen pictures of evening bodices double-piped, once with the fashion fabric and once with a contrast but, as I recall it was only at the waist edge. I'm disappointed because I really wanted to pipe an entire cotton dress with a turkey red that matched exactly the little bit of red in my pattern. I'm ging to do it anyway at the waist, even for my cotton day dress. The not-piping at the back curved seam is in the Laughing Moon Mercantile 1860s dress. The tuck is on the outside and actually helps with fitting the back. It's a very pretty addition to an otherwise plain back. LynnD On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 11:23 AM, Lisa Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: Thank you thank thank y ou! This is so awesome and it is EXACTLY the affirmation I Was looking for. Ive never seen where they piped the front darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on my next go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A -- Original Message -- From: Laura Rubin rubin.lau...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the front darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was rather unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. You can see a tiny picture of it here: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267e xkey=696pagekey=710 -Laura Message: 13 Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 From: Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Message-ID: 20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks--when I have an extra minute, I will look it up. It's snowing here now, and freezing cold, (In Maryland), so much of what I Was hoping to get done today didn't happen, but I am doing inside things. Yours in costuming, LisaA On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 10:38:15 -0800 Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com writes: Lisa, The photos of the double piping were in the book by Jennifer Rosbrugh of Cloak Corset Moder Sewing Techniques for Historical Clothing Construction, 2nd Edition. This is one of the ebooks Cloak Corset offers. It has a lot of basic information but some real jewels are in there too. LynnD On Thu, Dec 16, 2010 at 3:50 AM, Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: I went ahead and used a very spring green for piping on fabric that was a navy blue with very small white and green flower patterns. It was a ctually quite difficult and took me to 3 separate stores to find the correct green that had enough yellow in it, but it was a great match and looks really nice, since there is very little ornamentation. But the little photo of Mrs. Lincloln's dress will become part of my documentation for my dress with the contrasting piping. The double piping sounds really intriguing, I would loveto see a photo or reference for it. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A On Wed, 15 Dec 2010 11:11:24 -0800 Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com writes: I have seen pictures of evening bodices double-piped, once with the fashion fabric and once with a contrast but, as I recall it was only at the waist edge. I'm disappointed because I really wanted to pipe an entire cotton dress with a turkey red that matched exactly the little bit of red in my pattern. I'm ging to do it anyway at the waist, even for my cotton day dress. The not-piping at the back curved seam is in the Laughing Moon Mercantile 1860s dress. The tuck is on the outside and actually helps with fitting the back. It's a very pretty addition to an otherwise plain back. LynnD On Tue, Dec 14, 2010 at 11:23 AM, Lisa Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: Thank you thank thank y ou! This is so awesome and it is EXACTLY the affirmation I Was looking for. Ive never seen where they piped the front darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on my next go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A -- Original Message -- From: Laura Rubin rubin.lau...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the front darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was rather unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. You can see a tiny picture of it here: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267e xkey=696pagekey=710 -Laura Message: 13 Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 From: Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Message-ID: 20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls...
I did a Victorian hat from a Wingeo pattern once and really didn't like the hat, I didn't think it came out like the drawing I agree Laughing Moon is okay, and Patterns of Time is good. Folkwear patterns are not really historical--they are for modern sensibilities. Yours inc osutming, Lisa A On Thu, 16 Dec 2010 17:37:16 -0600 Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net writes: Laughing Moon patterns are great. Folkwear is OK--you may want to modify. I'd give Wingeo a pass. . . Kim -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Patricia Dunham Sent: Thursday, December 16, 2010 4:57 PM To: h-costume-indra.com Costume Subject: [h-cost] eek, quick opinion pls... Don't know if I actually have time to still get this by Xmas, BUT! Himself re-iterated interest in a Steampunk/Victorian outfit again last night, so... Anybody know anything about any of these particular patterns or vendors... Laughing Moon #109, men's frock coats vest Folkwear #222, set of vests Men's Garments 1830-1900: A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring, by RI Davis (book) Old West Men's Clothing Patterns, by Wingeo, Pattern #W324 (frock coat), #W325 (Dress Coat) We have good basic sewing skills, some theatrical costuming experience, but no tailoring... Greatly appreciated, any responses today, Thursday... Chimene ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks so much--this is really helpful. I am making a reproduction 1861 dress, but I used green piping instead of self piping, because it picked up the tiny amount of green in t he small print on a dark blue background, and was one of the few decorative elements. I look forward to meeting you at the Genteel Arts Conference, and perhaps discuss some of this! Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Mon, 13 Dec 2010 21:25:06 -0500 Lists li...@genteelarts.com writes: Hi, Lisa - Piping is not an absolute, but it does appear in almost all adult dresses c.1860-1865: in the armscyes for stabilization and strength and at the waistline and neckline as a finishing technique. The curved back seams are usually not piped; what appears to be piping in photographs is topstitching. On a significant number of dresses, this curved back seam is not even a seam - it's a tuck folded into the fabric. Self-fabric piping is also not an absolute - but the number of extant garments with contrasting piping represent a miniscule amount of surviving garments - possibly just a fraction of a percent of those worn during the period. Examples where I have found contrasting piping: a wrapper c.1861-1863 that used scrap fabric as part of the construction. e.g. collar, belt, cuffs and piping; two evening gowns c.1865-1866 where significantly larger piping was used as a decorative accent; and two children's dresses where contrasting fabric was used as a trimming. In four decades of research and hundreds of original garments - those have been the only examples I've encountered from this era. Contrasting piping does become more common in the post-war era. I've discussed this with other researchers and collectors who focus on this era and their surveys are comparable with mine. The only absolute in American Civil War era dresses is a dropped armscye; there are exceptions to almost every other characteristic. However, contrast piping in adult garments appears to be an aberration rather except in the circumstances I mentioned. As always, YMMV, and I'd enjoy hearing about other examples that I can add to my database. :-) Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thank you thank thank y ou! This is so awesome and it is EXACTLY the affirmation I Was looking for. Ive never seen where they piped the front darts, but it IS quite attractive, and I may well try it on my next go-around with this pattern of dress. Yours in cosutming, Lisa A -- Original Message -- From: Laura Rubin rubin.lau...@gmail.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Date: Tue, 14 Dec 2010 10:27:14 -0800 The National Museum of American History has one of Mrs. Lincoln's dresses that is a heavy purple velvet piped along every seam with white satin piping. It's a rather eccentric style! Even the front darts are piped! I'm led to believe that the dressmaker was rather unconventional as well, but was Mrs. L's favorite. You can see a tiny picture of it here: http://americanhistory.si.edu/exhibitions/small_exhibition.cfm?key=1267exkey=696pagekey=710 -Laura Message: 13 Date: Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:26:12 -0500 From: Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses Message-ID: 20101213.075512.5052.168.lis...@juno.com Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses
Thanks, that is very helpful, even though the contrasting piping is only at the waistline. It DOES at least affirm what I have been doing. If anyone else has any vintage photos or examples of contrasting piping fromt he 1860's I am VERY interested in documenting them for a current project. Yours inc osutming, Lisa A On Mon, 13 Dec 2010 06:10:38 -0800 (PST) Beteena Paradise bete...@mostlymedieval.com writes: I have one example, but the contrasting piping is only at the waistline and is really a decorative element. I have uploaded the pictures of the gown if you are interested in looking. The gown is from 1867. http://s522.photobucket.com/albums/w344/my_stitching/Piping%20example/ From: Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com To: h-cost...@indra.com Sent: Mon, December 13, 2010 11:26:12 AM Subject: [h-cost] piping on Civil War era dresses I know that dresses from this era (in America) were piped, and almost all self-piped, around the armscyes, and the back seams, but does anyone have a reference or a photo showing a solid piping with a print dress (or even anything refering to contrasting piping, for example, black piping on a lighter colored dress bodice)? Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] h-costume Digest, Vol 9, Issue 337
I have loads of squirrel furs that I have tanned myself (I warn you, they are fairly stiff) and quite a few rabbit furs as well (they are dyeable. Ifanyone wants some, just pay for postage and I can get them to you. I, also, find furs and pelts of all kinds at Flea Markets, yard sales, etc. And often buy them, even without a specific project. I just cannot resist them. TWICE, I have bought those mink scarf things fromt he 1940's and 50's, where they have 3 or 4 minks end to end and a snap closure so you wear it as a neckpiece. They are awesome. And in great shape and usually not more than $10. I also have a light colored mink stole upstairs, not in immaculate condition, that the guy MADE me take for free, just so he wouldn't take it home. IT's free to a good home, for postage costs. Enoiugh good stuff left in it to make at least one wide collar. Yours in costuming,Lisa A On Sat, 04 Dec 2010 10:32:35 -0500 Mary + Doug Piero Carey mary.d...@pierocarey.info writes: On 12/4/2010 9:39 AM, Kate Bunting wrote: Political correctness has made it impossible to buy old fur coats in charity shops... Huh? Kate, where are you? The 2nd hand stores around here still sell fur sometimes the yard sales estate sales are rife with them. I must have regretfully passed on buying well over a dozen in the last year, for lack of time and/or projects that required them! (All those baby boomers moving into smaller quarters, or dying, I'm sure.) Mary Piero Carey ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Travelling to the US in March 2011
There is the Genteel Arts conference in March in Pennsylvania. Im going to that (I found out about it on this list...) http://www.genteelarts.com/ Yours in costuming, Lisa A On Mon, 22 Nov 2010 12:44:36 +1100 Aylwen Gardiner-Garden aylwe...@gmail.com writes: I am travelling to the US in March to attend Costume Accessories: Head to Toe at Colonel Williamsburg. Does anyone know if there are any other historical costuming or dance events on in March that I can add to my itinerary? Bye for now, Aylwen Garden - -- Costume Director, Earthly Delights Historic Dance Academy Director, Jane Austen Festival Australia President, Monaro Folk Society ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Sherlock
Hi, Lisa here, delurking. Actually I thought the absolute BEST version of Sherlock Holmes was the Russian Sherlock Holmes, a series filmed in the late 70's and early 80's in Russian with subtitles. They got hte dress right and the sets and scenes are amazing. Of greatest improtance, however, is that they actually got the STORIES right, unlike the Jeremy Brett versions, which usually sacrificed the literary story, as well as giving his HOlmes a rather malicious demeanor, I thought. Jeremy Brett is my LEAST favorite HOlmes ever. I thought the Robert Downey movie was ok, but really dragged on; however, visually, at least, it was good. Try googling Russian Sherlock HOlmes. I don't know if there is way to get them on DVD, I have recorded them off my TV where they are on Channel 451, MHZ International Mysteries. on Sunday and Tues nights, along with other international series. Yours in cosutming, Lis aA On Sat, 23 Oct 2010 01:09:19 -0700 Patricia Dunham chim...@ravensgard.org writes: not due to be on until Sunday night, the 24th, here in Oregon, the first one... Study in Pink. It's been set up in the recorder for several days now! We enjoyed the Downey/Law movie of last year, a lot; otherwise Jeremy Brett is our fav' (right, except for the Private Life of SH movie, 1970, which is all-time favorite of my husband's) chimene On Oct 22, 2010, at 10:04 PM, Lavolta Press wrote: Has anyone seen it, and how does it come across to fans of the original books and the various movies set in the Victorian and Edwardian eras? I've only seen a newspaper review. I've always thought that if Holmes were alive today, he'd be a computer geek, probably developing viruses and cracking passwords just to see if he could, but never releasing the viruses or using the hacked material for anything evil. I think it was a neat touch that in the original version, Watson was a veteran of an Afghanistan campaign--and in the updated version, he still is. On the other hand, I'm not sure I would like seeing a modernized version . . . Fran Lavolta Press Two new books of 1880s clothing patterns! www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] I found my way back!
I discovered the lucet at an SCA event some years ago in Ohio, where I was a vendor. Now we make them as well (my partner is very good at woodwork) . They make really great cording, I often ma ke my own corset laces now, especially if I need an unusual color, or want to do a color combination. Yours in cosutmign,Lis aa On Wed, 13 Oct 2010 01:06:11 -0400 penny1a penn...@costumegallery.com writes: Thank you Sandy! I am so glad to know the name of the tool. My little grand-daughter is very crafty. I want to give her one for Christmas. She loves crocheting and braiding. Penny Ladnier Owner, The Costume Gallery Websites www.costumegallery.com 14 websites of fashion, textiles, costume history ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] I found my way back!
I for one would be EXTREMELY interested in any of hte 1860's photos, to view them, since that is what I am working on now. If you decided to scan and post them, please let us know. Yours in cosutming, Lisa a On Tue, 12 Oct 2010 03:27:25 -0400 penny1a penn...@costumegallery.com writes: I have been going through h-costume withdrawal since the beginning of August. YEA! I am back home! I have never been away from this email list this long. I bought a new laptop and thought that is why I couldn't receive email from h-costume. Tonight we found out that my email server had changed my security settings and had blocked the email list. Antique Roadshow in Washington DC was a blast. They valued my collection of late 1890s/early 1900s French theater costume illustrations at over $10,000. The collection is now residing in a bank vault. AR said that to a fashion or theater historian, the collection is priceless. During the past month, I have photographed three events. The first event was Citie of Henricus-Publick Day, Chesterfield, VA. Henricus was the second English settlement in the New World. The second event was the Chickahominy Indian Pow-Wow. We have some great detailed photos and videos from this event. I was in costume heaven at this event. Friday , I photographed a 1950s sock hop Cruisin' on the Coast in Mississippi.lots of poodle skirts and vintage cars! ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pseudo historic costume
It's fantastic. Thanks for posting it. I loev that younger folks do this stuff. Yours in costuming, Lisa a -- Original Message -- From: landofoz lando...@netins.net To: Historical Costume h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] pseudo historic costume Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 06:53:12 -0500 the only costume sewing I've done this year is for my daughter's 4H costume. http://www.flickr.com/photos/21642...@n06/4833605329/ She fit the costume and made the armor and accessories and cut out all the silver fabric applique. I had to iron it on because she melted the first one, and I sewed the seams just to save needles and/or a trip to the repair shop. (she's a rather careless seamstress) Sadly (for us), the girl behind her won the class Denise B Iowa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] seam treatments
Hello again. Im working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my question for today is: seam treatments for skirts--if I am using an unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams be finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a running stitch? Thanks in advance for the help. Yours in cosutming, Li saA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
Actually, this is for a competition piece, so the judges ARE going to be looking at it. Do you mean, that each skirt panel is hand-overcasted separately? Because Im not sure that makes sense--I was expecting, that after the seam was in, either #1) the raw seam edges were overcast together, #2) they were ironed to one side and flat-felled (by hand), or #3) the seam was ironed open, but then the raw edges were hand-tacked onto the lining. I am very willing to sit and do hand-hemmming and hand overcasting if needed. It's actually relaxing. I'm thrilled becasue I completed my hoops today even the hooks and loops, and they look great over the corset!!!And the bodice fits right, so only have to do the buttonholes. Now Im working up hte skirt panels and getting ready to pleat the thing. Yours in cosutming, Lis aA On Thu, 1 Jul 2010 18:06:37 -0500 Kim Baird kba...@cableone.net writes: The skirts I have seen had seams finished by hand overcastting. But not with the seams together-you might need to let it out. Kim BTW--I serge mine. Who's going to see them? -Original Message- From: h-costume-boun...@indra.com [mailto:h-costume-boun...@indra.com] On Behalf Of Lisa A Ashton Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2010 5:15 PM To: h-cost...@indra.com Subject: [h-cost] seam treatments Hello again. Im working away on my Civil War era ensemble, and my question for today is: seam treatments for skirts--if I am using an unterlining, rather than a separately made lining, should the seams be finished in some way, left raw, or sewn together at the edge with a running stitch? Thanks in advance for the help. Yours in cosutming, Li saA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] seam treatments
Thank you so much--this was JUST what I wanted to know. In my case, I am actually using the selvages, but they don't show up on every seam, so I will probably just overcast everything to make it look consistent. I actually did flat-felled seams ont he hoops and will carry it through for hte other undergarments. Yours in costuming, Li saA On Thu, 1 Jul 2010 20:24:02 -0400 Lists li...@genteelarts.com writes: The most common treatment I've found on mid-19th century original garments has both seam allowances pressed to one side. If the selvage edge has been not been used, both seam allowances are overcast together. If the selvage edge has been used, then they're just pressed to one side. During this era seam allowances are usually not pressed open. The seam allowances on the bodice - side seams and shoulder seams - are usually pressed toward the back; skirt seams can go in either direction. Run-and-fell seams are very common on undergarments but very unusual on dresses. Regards, Carolann Schmitt cschm...@genteelarts.com www.genteelarts.com Ladies Gentlemen of the 1860s Conference, March 3-6, 2011 ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pattern for Civil War Era coat
These were interesting, but I think what appeals to me more would be an 1861 paletot, which I have in Civil War LAdies: Fashions and needle Arts of the Early 1860's which is all from Petersen's MAgazines. I like the shape better although I will have to scale down the sleeves. Wish they had the patterns for it in there, even though I would have to mock it all up. I assume that a winter coat would be made of wool with a lining? Yours in cosutming, lis aA On Mon, 14 Jun 2010 21:03:58 -0400 Hope Greenberg hope.greenb...@uvm.edu writes: Here are a few that might be useful, from Godey's Lady's Book: November 1859: Fall Paletot, illus and pattern: http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/s5911452.jpg http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/s5911454.jpg May 1859: Zanfretti Mantle, illus, pattern 1, pattern 2 http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/s5905396.jpg http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/p5905398.jpg http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/p5905399.jpg February 1859: The Victoria Pardessus, illustration and pattern http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/p5902104.jpg http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/p5902169.jpg February 1858: Ladies Jacket, illus. and pattern http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/glb2-58dip97.jpeg http://www.uvm.edu/~hag/godey/images/glb2-58dip100.jpeg - Hope ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pattern for Civil War Era coat
I cannot find a pattern for a Civil Ware era lady's coat. Im thinking 1861. Suggestions? Yours in costuming, Lis aA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] pattern for Civil War Era coat
Just need to know--was the basic shape still the same? Pretty much fitted around the torso then flaring out? What kind of sleeves? If the shape is basicallyt he same, I would be interested, although I have no idea what it would be worth. What were you hoping to get for it? I am used to getting old H Arper's MAgazine issues from the 1870's through 1890's very inexpensively, maybe anywhere from free to $5 per issue. Obviously the patterns would be totally awesome, to a ctually make a coat (as long as the shape would be the same as for early 1860's). Yes, I am very interested int eh outerwear one. Also, and this may seem trivial, when doing buttonholes on teh dress bodice (and the coat), would the buttonholes more commonly be vertical or horizontal? Yours in costuming, Lis aA On Mon, 14 Jun 2010 15:39:01 -0700 Cin cinbar...@gmail.com writes: I was just going thru my collection of Harper's Bazaar issues from 1868-71. There are several issues with full sized patterns for cloaks, hoods, wraps paletots. I was planning on putting the journals out for sale at Stanford Historic Dance Week (next week). If you dont mind being a smidge fashion forward, you cant get a better pattern than the real thing. I have about a dozen journals. At least 3 have full pattern sheets for as many as 8 garments. One issue focuses specifically on outwear. Make an offer, if you're interested, --cin Cynthia Barnes cinbar...@gmail.com On Mon, Jun 14, 2010 at 3:22 PM, Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: I cannot find a pattern for a Civil Ware era lady's coat. Im thinking 1861. Suggestions? Yours in costuming, Lis aA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - lining
I have no idea where you live, I live north of Silver Spring , Maryland,, USA. That intersection does not sound at all familiar Yours in cosutming, Lisa a On Fri, 11 Jun 2010 15:01:59 -0700 D Knowles dana.know...@live.com writes: an Indian grocery on shields and bkackstone has wonderful cottons for 1$ a yard. I have an original early 1860s high-necked sheer cotton dress in a dark green stripe, with a low-necked black taffeta bodice lining. I've always assumed the lining might have been recycled from something else and was used for economy. ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - lining
Thank you all for the answers about the bodice lining; I may very well have some navy blue cotton for lining, and it MIGHT be enough, but I have other cottons that might work.I just want to go with what might be most commonly used. I am making the whole dress up in a lightweight gray wool as well (since I ahve a load of it as well as matching lining)--She'll have an extra outfit, but I will be able to see that every part fits correctly (although the mock-up fits great), and Ill work out the buttons, closures etc. Yours in costuming, Li sA On Wed, 09 Jun 2010 18:09:38 -0700 Lavolta Press f...@lavoltapress.com writes: On 6/9/2010 4:24 PM, Lisa A Ashton wrote: Also, should I plan to use a cotton or linen for the lining? Or could I use a silk? Because if silk would be acceptable for teh lining, I have a nice medium weight silk that I could dye myself, and I have lots of it. I am using a lightweight cotton for the interlining, the fabric is a calico cotton that an average weight--what you would use for quilting. I have an original early 1860s high-necked sheer cotton dress in a dark green stripe, with a low-necked black taffeta bodice lining. I've always assumed the lining might have been recycled from something else and was used for economy. I also have an original brown silk 1850s dress with a floral printed calico lining with a brown background. Usually you see a glazed cotton but in washable dresses, the glaze is often gone by now. White for white dresses, black for black dresses, various shades of brown for most. But as with the first two examples, dressmakers sometimes used what they had around that was the right weight. Fran Lavolta Press Books on making historic clothing www.lavoltapress.com ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - lining
Also, should I plan to use a cotton or linen for the lining? Or could I use a silk? Because if silk would be acceptable for teh lining, I have a nice medium weight silk that I could dye myself, and I have lots of it. I am using a lightweight cotton for the interlining, the fabric is a calico cotton that an average weight--what you would use for quilting. Thanks for all your great feedback on these questions--and I have ordered the Who Wore What book as well, Amazon had it used. Yours in cosutming, lisa a ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 19th c women's dress - lining
If I have enough of the fabric I am using for the skirt and bodice, is it alright to use the same fabric for the lining, or should it be a solid color? Yorus in cosutmign, Li saA On Wed, 09 Jun 2010 16:38:02 -0700 Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net writes: At 04:24 PM 6/9/2010, you wrote: Also, should I plan to use a cotton or linen for the lining? Or could I use a silk? Because if silk would be acceptable for teh lining, I have a nice medium weight silk that I could dye myself, and I have lots of it. I am using a lightweight cotton for the interlining, the fabric is a calico cotton that an average weight--what you would use for quilting. Thanks for all your great feedback on these questions--and I have ordered the Who Wore What book as well, Amazon had it used. Yours in cosutming, lisa a For a cotton dress, it's best to use cotton for the lining. I'd save the silk for a dress (and silk dresses often have cotton or linen linings). Joan Jurancich joa...@surewest.net ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Query RE: early Civil War women's dress
You are reading my mind--I was just wondering: were there different sizes of hoops, or styles of hoops worn--i.e. the hoops Ive seen patterned for ball gowns were very round and wide; were the hoops that might be worn at home narrower or different? And do you have a link or a photo or diagram of your hoops from that period, so I could see what the configuration is, that they would fold up so easily to sit down? Yours in costuming, Lis aA On Tue, 08 Jun 2010 13:21:38 GMT R Lloyd Mitchell rmitch...@staff.washjeff.edu writes: One thing about period hoops is that they fold gracefully when you sit; no pop-up or sticking out.? I have my great-grandmother's set and people have been amazed at how flexible they actually are. The shape is elipticle and length about 36 from the waist. kathleen ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Query RE: early Civil War women's dress
Hello to everyone, I have newly subscribed, and hope you can help with some little detail-oriented question I have about dress for an approx. 1861 upper-middle-class women's dress: (She lived in New England). I appreciate in advance your help--you were all EXTREMELY helpful about 6 years ago, when I reproduced my great-grandmother's dress from a family photo. The final product was amazing. This time I am trying to re-create a historical character. I chose a bodice with bishop sleeves and a very full skirt. Lots of petticoats. An apron. The fabric is a 100% cotton that is a medium size print in a base of navy/indigo blue, with small white circles surrounded by smaller green crescents and tiny white dots in a a diagonal pattern. . Anyway, here are my first questions about the 1861 lady: 1. Were side front closures the most common? and was it usually the left or the right side? 2. What about pockets? I cannot find any references or photos that show skirts had pockets--were they still using a little pouch tied at the waist under the dress? Is it reasonable to design a watch pocket in the skirt? 3. What kind of hose would they usually wear? Above or below the knee? (and Im referring to daily wear, not formal) and how was it held on?--would she have worn silk or cotton (even though cotton, by that time, may well have been becoming harder to obtain). Can you suggest a reference for making the garters? 4. I have some references that women (of working classes at least) would have had aprons that might be made from previously worn-out dresses or skirts. For an upper-middle-class lady, who probably took care of her own children and house to a large extent (her husband was off at war) , would that be the case, or would she have worn a newer apron (i.e. white or a solid color; cotton or linen)? Were all aprons the pinner aprons? That's what I can find--either those or just the skirt aprons that tied in back. Safety pins were invented in about 1849, were they using those for aprons? 5. I am not planning to wear hoops, although most of the photos of the time time seem to imply them, i.e. full, wide skirts. Once the war was really underway, and there was starting to be some early financial hardships--were the hoops scrapped in favor of petticoats? Doubtless I will have more questions, but these are the major ones as I dive in. I really want to create a persona here and be really accurate. Thanks for any help you can give. Yours in costuming, Lisa A ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Query RE: early Civil War women's dress
Yes, it all helps a lot. Since I am not re-enacting, but doing a very short stage presentation in which I have to sit in a rocking chair for most of the presentation, , I may make hoops, but not wear them on stage. I am still looking into the aprons--the photo I have is also from the western territories, which shows an elderly woman wearing a printed apron that doesn't match the dress top (she is seated). I may go with the skirt pocket too, I really want that. And I may go ahead and make the cotton dress, and look for a lightweight printed wool (I have a lovely light pearl grey lightweight fine wool, but I really want a print for this). A center front closure is dandy--the pattern (from Patterns of Time) says a back closure. I knew that wasn't right. If you think of anything else, or see a photo, pls add any comments. You guys are so brilliant about this, it helps so much, even if it just steers toward the right sources. Yours in costumign, li saA On Mon, 7 Jun 2010 14:12:02 -0700 (PDT) Sunshine Buchler sunny_buch...@sbcglobal.net writes: Hello! This time I am trying to re-create a historical character. I chose a bodice with bishop sleeves and a very full skirt. Lots of petticoats. An apron. If the date you�re going for is 1861, and you�re looking to portray an upper middle class young-to-middle-aged woman, then hoops are really the way to go. It would probably be worth your time to look at _Who Wore What?: Women�s Wear 1861-1865_ by Juanita Leisch. The fabric is a 100% cotton that is a medium size print in a base of navy/indigo blue,with small white circles surrounded by smaller green crescents and tiny white dots in a a diagonal pattern. I choose cotton for my civil war day dress as well, but it�s worth noting that cotton would be much more likely to be made into a wrapper or a work-dress then an everyday-dress in New England. Wool was the most common fabric for day dresses; there were lots and lots of wool print fabrics available then. 1. Were side front closures the most common? and was it usually the left or the right side? Actually side front closures were quite uncommon. Center front closures were ubiquitous for day wear. 2. What about pockets? I cannot find any references or photos that show skirts had pockets--were they still using a little pouch tied at the waist under the dress? Is it reasonable to design a watch pocket in the skirt? My extant 1860s silk day dress has a pocket on the right side only. It�s similar in construction to modern pockets, but the pocket bag is quite large, and more closely resembles a tear drop shape then the rectangular or rounded shape of today�s pockets. A watch pocket at the waist is occasionally seen in period photographs. It would�ve been a very small pocket along the waistband, just big enough for the watch. 3. What kind of hose would they usually wear? Above or below the knee? (and Im referring to daily wear, not formal) and how was it held on?--would she have worn silk or cotton (even though cotton, by that time, may well have been becoming harder to obtain). Can you suggest a reference for making the garters? I haven�t looked into 1860-65 stockings in particular; I�ve focused on the 1865-75 period. In 1873 E. Feydeau claims that the garter was worn above the knee, �A woman who commits the crime of wearing her stockings below the knee does not deserve to live� Sales catalogues talk about elastic garters, but I haven�t found very many pictures of them. There are patterns for period patterns for knitted ones - Katherine Caron-Greig made a lovely one: http://koshka-the-cat.livejournal.com/662530.html#cutid1 4. I have some references that women (of working classes at least) would have had aprons that might be made from previously worn-out dresses or skirts. For an upper-middle-class lady, who probably took care of her own children and house to a large extent (her husband was off at war) , would that be the case, or would she have worn a newer apron (i.e. white or a solid color; cotton or linen)? Were all aprons the pinner aprons? That's what I can find--either those or just the skirt aprons that tied in back. Safety pins were invented in about 1849, were they using those for aprons? I don�t know anything about aprons. _Calico Chronicle_ by Betty J. Mills talks about re-using dresses as aprons on the Texas frontier. However, I�m not sure how much of that focus on re-use applies to upper middle class society in New England. 5. I am not planning to wear hoops, although most of the photos of the Time time seem to imply them, i.e. full, wide skirts. Once the war was Really underway, and there was starting to be some early financial hardships--were the hoops scrapped in favor of petticoats? Nope, hoops were worn throughout the war, especially
Re: [h-cost] Query RE: early Civil War women's dress
I actually have looked at it--a friend has it who costumes professionally, and I ahve photocopies of pages that really helped me. I wish I could afford it, but not int he current economy and with two kids to try to help out. It was a great resource. I actually have a number of authentic Victorian photo cards that I have been buying at flea markets and yard sales for a few years (well before this current project was conceived); unfortunately only about 5 or 6 of them are the correct period. Which makes sense, since the older ones often sell for much more, but Ive picked up a few, and one is more or less what I'm trying to achieve as far as the bodice and fit. She is seated, and it doesn't appear that she is wearing hoops the way the skirt gathers, but she may be. Yours in costumign, lis aA On Mon, 7 Jun 2010 15:57:31 -0700 Lynn Downward lynndownw...@gmail.com writes: A great reference book is Dressed for the Photographer: Ordinary Americans, 1840-1900 by Joan L. Severa (1995) http://www.amazon.com/Dressed-Photographer-Ordinary-Americans-1840-1900/d p/0873385128/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8s=booksqid=1275950625sr=1-1 The author (as curator of costume at the State Historical Society of Wisconsin) had access to thousands of photographs from the beginning of photography in the US on up to the present. In this book she shows photographs of people - goldminers, soldiers, slaves, middle- and upper-class people - dressed as they wanted to be remembered by the photographer. She describes the clothing in each photograph in great detail and you'll be hard-pressed to not find an answer to your questions. It's not an inexpensive book - $60 when I bought it a couple of years ago - but it's been a wealth of information for American clothing. I found it on Amazon so I could send a link and it's on sale but not readily available right now. She also wrote My Likeness Taken: Daguerreian Portraits in America, printed in 2006, but I haven't seen that book yet. LynnD On Mon, Jun 7, 2010 at 3:17 PM, Lisa A Ashton lis...@juno.com wrote: Yes, it all helps a lot. Since I am not re-enacting, but doing a very short stage presentation in which I have to sit in a rocking chair for most of the presentation, , I may make hoops, but not wear them on stage. I am still looking into the aprons--the photo I have is also from the western territories, which shows an elderly woman wearing a printed apron that doesn't match the dress top (she is seated). I may go with the skirt pocket too, I really want that. And I may go ahead and make the cotton dress, and look for a lightweight printed wool (I have a lovely light pearl grey lightweight fine wool, but I really want a print for this). A center front closure is dandy--the pattern (from Patterns of Time) says a back closure. I knew that wasn't right. If you think of anything else, or see a photo, pls add any comments. You guys are so brilliant about this, it helps so much, even if it just steers toward the right sources. Yours in costumign, li saA ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Re: Elizabethan Dressing Jackets
Again they only show the back of it, and in this lighting you can't see how magnificently metallic it is. The museum now dates it to 1610-1615. There's a color picture of the front in Adolph Cavallo's Needlework. Unfortunately you can't see the metallic-ness in that photo either but the jacket is being worn by a mannequin which may also be wearing a matching coif. I'm not sure about the coif, not with my books right now. --lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
[h-cost] Walking Art, at the Italian Cultural Institute
An article appeared in my local paper about this exhibit. http://tinyurl.com/ye4spw or http://www.honoluluadvertiser.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20061126/LIFE08/611260320/1076 Has anyone seen the exhibit and if so, how was it? lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] discolored silk
Is the laundry soap liquid? Most laundry liquids seem to contain a lot of dye -- they are often very dark blue or blue/green. That would be my first suspect. If it's powdered, are their little colored bits in the powder? I think they add a certain amount of ingredient in both liquids and powders that act like blueing. It's a powder and it's completely white, no colored bits. It's a Safeway house brand and unfortunately, I emptied the box into my detergent bin and threw it away so I don't even know the exact name of the product. I do remember that it's a concentrated detergent where you need very little--1/4 to 3/8 cup does a large load beautifully. --lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Book wish list: was Migration Era books was Re: New MCT Book
Sorta costume related--I would love to find a book with nothing but notes on and photos of, everyday secular medeval English embroidery, although I doubt if such a critter exists. You and me both. There is Domestic Needlework by Seligman and Hughes but almost all of it is from the 17th century and later. There are 3 items from the 13th and 14th century and a handful from the 15th and 16th, but the vast majority is post-1600. I have a few others that are specifically on domestic (as opposed to ecclesiastical) needlework but they concentrate on the 16th century so aren't really medieval. Let me know if you'd like the titles. lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] German water--attn dyers
Aside from some flouridated toothpaste I can only get from the dentist, I have no ideas for a source of OTC flouride, but if flouride is absent I have no idea of the effects of fluoride on dye or how close it is to the stuff in water but you can get fluoride tablets or drops from dentists. Water where I live is not fluoridated either but I don't notice the kind of bleeding you mention. lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] period dye color references
1. are there any historical references for this color? I know that dandelion flowers produce a yellow dye. I don't know about dandelions but you can get magenta and fuschia from fermented lichen dyes. 2. no mordant implies that it would not be color fast. I've done a tiny bit of experimenting and even though I got some vibrant shades, they were _extremely_ fugitive to light. My wool and silk samples that were exposed to even indirect sunlight faded to gray within two weeks. The samples that were kept in the dark are still bright, though. 3. are there any historical references to a magenta like color being produced with some other dye stuff? Yes, orchil producing lichens and murex shellfish (Tyrian purple). Or any suggestions where I might look for more information? A book or website on lichen dyes/orchil should have something. I'm away from my books but I think one of them is Craft of the Dyer, Colour from Plants and Lichens by Casselman(sp?). One website is http://www.ravensgard.org/gerekr/Orchil.html . She has a picture with color samples. --annora ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] 17th Century Glove Pictures?
There are quite a few pictures of both women's and men's gloves in The Visual History of Costume Accessories by Valerie Cumming, but alas, they're all in black and white. --lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
Re: [h-cost] Re: Kyoto book
On Wed, 24 Aug 2005, Pierre Sandy Pettinger wrote: IIRC, the reason the photos are so crisp and the colors clear is that they used an 8-color separation printing process, rather than the usual 4-color. One wonders if the 2-volume edition only used 4-color, since it is so much cheaper than the 1-volume was. I have both versions--ordered the 2 volume set without realizing it was the same book. To me, the colors in the 2 volume set look just as vibrant and beautiful as those in the single volume. --and-- On Wed, 24 Aug 2005, Katy Bishop wrote: I am curious to see how they have reformatted it for 2 volumes. The 18th and 19th centuries are in Volume I and the 20th century is in Volume II. There's a very slight difference in page numbers. I haven't gone through page by page to see what the specifics are but the original book has 736 pages. In the new set Volume I is page 1-320 and Volume II is page 321-720. Either way I wholeheartedly agree with everyone who has said that it's a very beautiful book. lisa ___ h-costume mailing list h-costume@mail.indra.com http://mail.indra.com/mailman/listinfo/h-costume
