Re: [MBZ] 126

[OK Don]

I might have the ALDA adjusted a tad agressively, but I didn't see any
change in fuel use. It is a LOT more fun to drive now though 

On 12/28/05, Jim Cathey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > 300SDL ~ 24-26MPG (mine - 50/50 highway city).
>
> Ours turns in a very reliable 27MPG lifetime-type average.  With
> my wife and I both filling it up, sometimes one will calculate 25
> but the next might be 29.  (She doesn't like waiting for the foam
> to settle.)  We have gotten 30 maybe once a year or so.

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Jim Cathey]

you wrote:<>>
Are you saying "only a couple mpg less" than a Diesel W126? or the 500 
W126?


I think he was referring to the 380 SE.  As I mentioned before, the
only data point I have is that my '86 560 SL beats the mileage of
a friend's '85 380 SL.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 123 - mating differential to subframe

[OK Don]

Just a WAG - but if that doesn't do it, perhaps loosening the nut at
the driveshaft spline will help?

On 12/28/05, Tom Hargrave <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Loosen the two rear studs and see of this gives you enough movement to push
> the front into place.
>
>
> Thanks,
> Tom Hargrave
> 256-656-1924
> www.kegkits.com

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Jim Cathey]

300SDL ~ 24-26MPG (mine - 50/50 highway city).


Ours turns in a very reliable 27MPG lifetime-type average.  With
my wife and I both filling it up, sometimes one will calculate 25
but the next might be 29.  (She doesn't like waiting for the foam
to settle.)  We have gotten 30 maybe once a year or so.

So far I'm still on my first tank of fuel in the Frankenheap
(115 200D), and it's from March.  At 300 miles it was just reading
a hair over half full, so it's doing a bit better than before if
the gauge can be trusted.  So far its best has been 32 MPG, and
each tank has been better than the one before.

It takes awhile to empty a tank when you don't have a job to go to!

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Potential Money pit OR nice car on ebay (SDL)

[Craig McCluskey]

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 14:54:42 -0600 "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> Its about twice what Kaleb usually pays
> 
>  
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/runs-head-gasket-blown-1small-dent-lf-fender-int-exc_W0QQitemZ4599354500QQcategoryZ6472QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Zero feedback, poor pictures, and a rod-bender to boot!


Craig

Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start after sitting for three years!!

[Jim Cathey]

Anyway, Where can I find Ether, would AutoZone and the like have it?!


Every auto parts store on the planet has it, as do truck stops, etc.
"Starting fluid."

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 126

[l02turner]

Thanks for the MPG info!  It's very helpful when deciding what to buy - 
oddly,  the info isn;t always easy to find in a dependable source.  The car 
magazine testers all use different criteria for calculating MPG and the DOT 
fogures on the new car stickers are notoriously inaccurate (IMHO).


When I used to check mine religiously I never saw much difference in w/AC Vs 
wo/AC running.  Do you see the same thing?  Even the speed didn't seem all 
that sensitive.


Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D - 286k)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "OK Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 4:41 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126



Add -
300SDL ~ 24-26MPG (mine - 50/50 highway city).

I've heard 18-20 for the 380SE, but that's just hearsay.


560SEL ~17MPG
420SEL ~19-22MPG
300SD  ~25-28MPG

This is what I roughly get on my W126s.

Trampas


--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

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Re: [MBZ] Mud Flaps

[l02turner]

You wrote:<>>

Do you find it helpful to have them on the front also?  I was considering 
that if the rears are as nice as they look.


Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Hendrik Riessen" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 5:43 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mud Flaps



Over here the dealers still sell flappers for the 123's. Well they did a
couple of years ago when I was after a couple.
Came in a nice DC box with all the things required to fit them on without
having to drill holes. From memory they where not that expensive either.

Hendrik
mud flaps front and rear (on the car that is)

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 7:05 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Mud Flaps



Howdy -
Recently I asked the list for a source for mud flaps for W123's without
success.  I eventually found some on eBay and rec'd them today.  The
rubber
is pretty thick with a MB Star on it.  They were 30 UK #'sterling which
includes shipping to the US.

I haven't installed them yet and I may buy a pair for the front wheels.
I've always liked the look of the W123 with Mud Flaps -
They were item # 8021705461 in case you want to take a look at them --
they
also carry MF's for other cars.

Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D - 286k)



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Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - noaffiliation.

[Bob Rentfro]

Har de har harLT Don said, "tango-uniform".

Bob Rentfro
'77 300D 146K
Litchfield Park, AZ


- Original Message - 
From: "LT Don" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 4:04 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - 
noaffiliation.




Sounds expensive to repair if it goes tango-uniform.

On 12/28/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Hi Craig,

ASD is a traction control of sorts.





--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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Re: [MBZ] 123 - mating differential to subframe

[Tom Hargrave]

Loosen the two rear studs and see of this gives you enough movement to push
the front into place. 


Thanks,
Tom Hargrave
256-656-1924
www.kegkits.com

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of tom savage
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 4:58 PM
To: Mercedes mailing list
Subject: [MBZ] 123 - mating differential to subframe

Hello all,
I just finished replacing a rear trailing arm on my '82 300D, which was
quite an adventure.  Along the way I (unnecessarily, it turned out)
separated the differential from the subframe.  Now everything is back
together, but the diff refuses to fully rejoin the subframe.  The two rear
studs are more or less aligned and tightened down, but the front of the diff
simply will not move the last inch or so that it needs to so that it can be
fully secured.  Right now, the two front studs are just barely poking
through the subframe such that I can get the nuts on them. 
  And no matter how much I try to tighten them, I can't and the diff moves
no further.

Anyone know what could cause this?  I'm wondering if I need to pull the
driveshaft and then try resecuring the diff? Or drop the subframe at all
three points?  I am not looking forward to crawling under the car again...

Thanks,
Tom
'82 300D 325k - The Brave Little Toaster


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Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no affiliation.

[LT Don]

Sounds expensive to repair if it goes tango-uniform.

On 12/28/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hi Craig,
>
> ASD is a traction control of sorts.




--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

[MBZ] 123 - mating differential to subframe

[tom savage]

Hello all,
I just finished replacing a rear trailing arm on my '82 300D, which was 
quite an adventure.  Along the way I (unnecessarily, it turned out) 
separated the differential from the subframe.  Now everything is back 
together, but the diff refuses to fully rejoin the subframe.  The two 
rear studs are more or less aligned and tightened down, but the front of 
the diff simply will not move the last inch or so that it needs to so 
that it can be fully secured.  Right now, the two front studs are just 
barely poking through the subframe such that I can get the nuts on them. 
 And no matter how much I try to tighten them, I can't and the diff 
moves no further.


Anyone know what could cause this?  I'm wondering if I need to pull the 
driveshaft and then try resecuring the diff? Or drop the subframe at all 
three points?  I am not looking forward to crawling under the car again...


Thanks,
Tom
'82 300D 325k - The Brave Little Toaster

Re: [MBZ] Mud Flaps

[Hendrik Riessen]

Over here the dealers still sell flappers for the 123's. Well they did a 
couple of years ago when I was after a couple.
Came in a nice DC box with all the things required to fit them on without 
having to drill holes. From memory they where not that expensive either.


Hendrik
mud flaps front and rear (on the car that is)

- Original Message - 
From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Thursday, December 29, 2005 7:05 AM
Subject: [MBZ] Mud Flaps



Howdy -
Recently I asked the list for a source for mud flaps for W123's without
success.  I eventually found some on eBay and rec'd them today.  The 
rubber

is pretty thick with a MB Star on it.  They were 30 UK #'sterling which
includes shipping to the US.

I haven't installed them yet and I may buy a pair for the front wheels.
I've always liked the look of the W123 with Mud Flaps -
They were item # 8021705461 in case you want to take a look at them --  
they

also carry MF's for other cars.

Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D - 286k)



___
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Re: [MBZ] 124's

[LT Don]

Ka-zing. "Thank you, I will be performing here all week."

On 12/28/05, Marshall Booth <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
>
>
> Now a LOT more of the OM60x engines that Kaleb looks at (ones that sell
> for less than $500) WILL have blown head gaskets!
>
> Marshall
> --
>   Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
>"der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> '87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5
> turbo 237kmi
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] 124's

[Marshall Booth]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
They ALL have head problems.  The 2.5 dont crack heads, but the gaskets 
usually go bad at some point over their lives.  Its usually blowing oil 
out, not coolant though.  I wont say the ALL have the problem, but I 
know all the ones I know of personally have.


NOT true. Fewer than 4% (less than 1 in 20) of OM60x engines have 
experienced blown head gaskets (when I count up the reports). It's rare, 
but still, the gaskets were redesigned in the late '80s so that the 
newer OM60x engines blow head gaskets even less often.


Now a LOT more of the OM60x engines that Kaleb looks at (ones that sell 
for less than $500) WILL have blown head gaskets!


Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start after sitting for three years!!

[kayoooh @ gmail]

> Message: 8
> Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 11:12:07 -0800
> From: Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not
> start after sitting for three years!!
> To: Mercedes Discussion List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> On Wed, Dec 28, 2005 at 07:25:40AM -0800, Jim Cathey wrote:
> > > Depends on the engine in particular.  Since it turned over, that's a
> > > good
> > > start!  I would suggest carb cleaner in the intake to see if it brings
> > > it to
> > > life. If the engine was carbuerated I would suggest a splash of gas
> > > down the
> > > carbuerrator - same line of thinking.
> >
> > Nothing quicker or easier than a snort of starting ether, a tool I'm
> > never without.  (Just don't feed it to your MB diesels!)  If it fires,
> > you need to look at the fuel delivery system (which is probably your
> > problem at this point.)  I fed a snort to my genset yesterday, and it
> > fired!  That proved that I had compression and spark, and that the
> > valve and ignition timing were at least plausible.
>
> You can get to at least one plug on a v8 ford van for diagnostic purposes.
>
> But, I was going to suggest a snort of ether myself. Sometimes it just
needs
> a kick to wake it up.
>
> K
..

This engine is fuel injected but whatever starting fluid I use, the stuff
can be sprayed/poured down the air intake!
Anyway, Where can I find Ether, would AutoZone and the like have it?!

Omar.

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Antilock brake Light

[dave walton]

I always found it interesting that ABS does not significantly reduce
accidents (statistically speaking). Whereas Stability Control reduces
them 20-50% depending on the study you look at. And most new cars come
with ABS standard - go figure.

-Dave Walton
94 S350, 99 E300

On 12/28/05, Kevin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> On Wed, Dec 28, 2005 at 04:38:32PM -0500, Peter Arnold wrote:
> > The "Antilock Brake" glowed ominously at me today on the way home.  It
> > went out after booting it with a restart.
>
> FWIW, my 87 300D has been doing that for quite some time now. I actually
> prefer NOT having ABS, so I'm not too disappointed that it isn't working.
>
> When the light is on, you don't have ABS, and you actually have to think
> when braking. Stock 124 brakes are capable of locking up without a ridiculous
> amount of effort.
>
> K
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
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>

[MBZ] Excessive current draw - '80 300TD - Source Found!

[John Ervine]

All,

Upon further testing, I've determined that the source of my excessive current 
draw is the ACC servo circuit.  Following my usual troubleshooting steps of most 
expensive to least expensive, pulling the in-line fuse under the relay block 
cover resulted in my 320mA draw downgrading itself to a ~4mA pulse from the 
clock in the dash.  Mitch wins the e-cookie.


--
John L. Ervine
1981 240D 4-spd 268+kmi
1980 300TD 170+kmi
1980 300SD 277+kmi
1977 280S 4-spd 80+kmi

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Antilock brake Light

[Trampas]

Normally it is one of the wheel sensors going bad. I had to wait for hard
failure, about 6 months, before ohming out the sensor would determine which
one. The sensors are about $100 from Rusty, but Kaleb can sell you used
ones. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Peter Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 4:39 PM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 300SDL Antilock brake Light

The "Antilock Brake" glowed ominously at me today on the way home.  It
went out after booting it with a restart.

All fuse have less than 1 year on them.  Blinker fluid was changed at
100Kmi., using Mobile1 fluid.

Is this some sort of code that Rusty is short of funds and needs a
transfusion from my Visa account?

--

Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.

1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 234 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%

1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 192 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes

2002 PT Cruizer, 77 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale

1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}

None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)


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Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no affiliation.

[L . Mark Finch]

On Dec 28, 2005, at 9:56 AM, Donald Snook wrote:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-family-owned-non-smoker-24-pix-NICE- 
TUR

BO-DIESEL_W0QQitemZ4599776367QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem


Good spontaneous rant in the seventh paragraph.

_
L. Mark Finch
Indianapolis
1982 300D Turbodiesel

[MBZ] OFF _TOPIC BMW Parts/ or how to replace driveshaft on BMW 325

[Donald Snook]

I have a friend with an 87 325e. He says he has a vibration in the
driveshaft. Here's what he says

 

"Driveshaft has a little vibration.  If you are accelerating quickly it 

vibrates notciably, if you control the throttle correctly it doesn't
vibrate 

much or at all.  I was going to replace the U-joints while the motor was


out, but they are staked in and are quite small so I couldn't replace
them 

with U-joints with internal C-clips.  I was quoted a price of around
$400 

for a new driveshaft (it has a carrier bearing so it's a little
pricey)."

 

Any thoughts?  Anyone have any experience with these?

 

Donald H. Snook

 

Re: [MBZ] 126

[LT Don]

You guys are doing a great job of trying to convince me that the S-Class is
"much better in this era of expensive gasoline/diesel" than the 190s.

On 12/28/05, OK Don <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Add -
> 300SDL ~ 24-26MPG (mine - 50/50 highway city).
>
> I've heard 18-20 for the 380SE, but that's just hearsay.
>
> > 560SEL ~17MPG
> > 420SEL ~19-22MPG
> > 300SD  ~25-28MPG
> >
> > This is what I roughly get on my W126s.
> >
> > Trampas
>
> --
> OK Don, KD5NRO
> Norman, OK
> '90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
> The FSM created the Diesel Benz
> http://www.venganza.org/
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Antilock brake Light

[Kevin]

On Wed, Dec 28, 2005 at 04:38:32PM -0500, Peter Arnold wrote:
> The "Antilock Brake" glowed ominously at me today on the way home.  It
> went out after booting it with a restart.

FWIW, my 87 300D has been doing that for quite some time now. I actually 
prefer NOT having ABS, so I'm not too disappointed that it isn't working.

When the light is on, you don't have ABS, and you actually have to think
when braking. Stock 124 brakes are capable of locking up without a ridiculous
amount of effort.

K

Re: [MBZ] 300SDL Antilock brake Light

[LT Don]

Yes. It is Rusty's fault.

Easiest fix is a piece of black tape placed over the idiot light.

On 12/28/05, Peter Arnold <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> The "Antilock Brake" glowed ominously at me today on the way home.  It
> went out after booting it with a restart.
>
> All fuse have less than 1 year on them.  Blinker fluid was changed at
> 100Kmi., using Mobile1 fluid.
>
> Is this some sort of code that Rusty is short of funds and needs a
> transfusion from my Visa account?
>
> --
>
> Peter T. Arnold
> Windsor, Connecticut
> U.S.A.
>
> 1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 234 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
>
> 1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 192 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes
>
> 2002 PT Cruizer, 77 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale
>
> 1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}
>
> None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] 126

[OK Don]

Add -
300SDL ~ 24-26MPG (mine - 50/50 highway city).

I've heard 18-20 for the 380SE, but that's just hearsay.

> 560SEL ~17MPG
> 420SEL ~19-22MPG
> 300SD  ~25-28MPG
>
> This is what I roughly get on my W126s.
>
> Trampas

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

[MBZ] 300SDL Antilock brake Light

[Peter Arnold]

The "Antilock Brake" glowed ominously at me today on the way home.  It
went out after booting it with a restart.

All fuse have less than 1 year on them.  Blinker fluid was changed at
100Kmi., using Mobile1 fluid.

Is this some sort of code that Rusty is short of funds and needs a
transfusion from my Visa account?

--

Peter T. Arnold
Windsor, Connecticut
U.S.A.

1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 234 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%

1995 Ford F-250 W/PSD, 192 Kmi on Rotella @ 5 Kmi Changes

2002 PT Cruizer, 77 Kmi, Every 5 Kmi with what's on sale

1954 Metropolitan {My Hanger-Queen}

None use oil between changes, go figure ;-)

[MBZ] Hello??

[Luther Gulseth]

anyone out there???  Alive?

Luther   KB5QHU
Alma, Ark
'83 300SD (happily running diesel/WVO mix)
'82 300CD slate grey, black interior, 152,xxx mi

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Trampas]

560SEL ~17MPG
420SEL ~19-22MPG
300SD  ~25-28MPG

This is what I roughly get on my W126s.

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 4:11 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126

you wrote:<>>

Are you saying "only a couple mpg less" than a Diesel W126? or the 500 W126?

If that's compared to the 300SD/SDL my search criteria just got much larger 
since there are so many more SE/SELs than SD/SDL's -- it'll make my search 
much easier.  Actually, I saw a 87 SDL for $1000 "needing engine repair" - 
which can either be something easy or difficult.  But since I was worried 
about the MPG of the S Class I passed without asking about it.

TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D - 286k)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Tjohn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126


> 126's are wonderful cars.  Make sure that you check the trunk for rust, 
> both
> in the wheel well, and underneath the package shelf (you may have to lie 
> on
> your back in the trunk to see it).  I believe that as others have stated 
> the
> 380 engine is a bit underpowered, although the double chain versions are
> perfectly reliable.  I actually prefer the diesel, since its low end grunt
> makes it accelerate acceptably for around town driving.  You'll find that
> the 560 returns mileage only a couple mpg less, and with a large plus up 
> in
> the hp department - and you could put all the hydraulic suspension 
> knowledge
> to use. You'll soon see why Kaleb swapped in the 500 engine in his.
>
> Tjohn
>
> 82 300 SD 220K
>
> On 12/28/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>>
>> Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
>> 126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> ___
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> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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> 



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Re: [MBZ] 126

[l02turner]

you wrote:<>>

Are you saying "only a couple mpg less" than a Diesel W126? or the 500 W126?

If that's compared to the 300SD/SDL my search criteria just got much larger 
since there are so many more SE/SELs than SD/SDL's -- it'll make my search 
much easier.  Actually, I saw a 87 SDL for $1000 "needing engine repair" - 
which can either be something easy or difficult.  But since I was worried 
about the MPG of the S Class I passed without asking about it.


TIA -

Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D - 286k)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info
- Original Message - 
From: "Tjohn" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>

To: "Mercedes Discussion List" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 1:44 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 126


126's are wonderful cars.  Make sure that you check the trunk for rust, 
both
in the wheel well, and underneath the package shelf (you may have to lie 
on
your back in the trunk to see it).  I believe that as others have stated 
the

380 engine is a bit underpowered, although the double chain versions are
perfectly reliable.  I actually prefer the diesel, since its low end grunt
makes it accelerate acceptably for around town driving.  You'll find that
the 560 returns mileage only a couple mpg less, and with a large plus up 
in
the hp department - and you could put all the hydraulic suspension 
knowledge

to use. You'll soon see why Kaleb swapped in the 500 engine in his.

Tjohn

82 300 SD 220K

On 12/28/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.






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Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Tan Qu]

Since I have the old thermostat off, I am going to
boil test it if it opens at all. 120C is well over the
100C fully open point so if it opens then the problem
must be elsewhere. 

We can pretty much rule out the radiator because I
just remembered that last night when I was swapping
the thermostats I didn't put it in right the first
time. So while I was filling from the upper radiator
hose it flowed out from the inproperly installed
thermostat - so the flow in the radiator was free just
by gravity. 

I will double check to make sure I don't have the
"cold pressurized upper hose" symdrome tonight. 


Tan

 

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Tan,
> 
> I think the new pumps are OK, but I forget. I recall
> that last time I
> checed, the rebuilt pumps from the dealer (or Rusty)
> were a lot less
> than new. Maybe that's no longer true? I generally
> prefer dealer parts
> due to the warranty. I believe the dealer parts you
> buy through Rusty
> also carry the dealer warranty (ask him for details
> - I'm not sure on
> that.) Brian Toscano had done some research on OM60x
> water pumps, I
> think - maybe he can add his $0.02?
> 
> Oh, btw - I would still test the t-stat (or install
> a new dealer
> t-stat), and it wouldn't hurt to put a garden  hose
> in the top of the
> radiator and make sure there's good flow. If the
> flow is normal and
> outlet is still cold, to me that once again points
> to the water pump.
> If flow is restricted, the radiator may be the
> problem (plugged).
> 
> :-)
> 
> +dm
> 
> > --
> > Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:22:47 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
> >
> >
> > Dave and all,
> >
> > I am more leaning toward to a bad water pump. When
> I
> > turned the heater on which in turn turned the
> > (electric) auxillary water pump the temp droped
> maybe
> > 2 degrees. My feel was that the coolant was
> plainly
> > not flowing throught the system, even the closed
> > circuit.
> >
> > What's the story on the water pump? I guess the
> new
> > Laso or Geba pumps at Rusty's website are no good?
> >
> > Tan
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

[MBZ] Potential Money pit OR nice car on ebay (SDL)

[Donald Snook]

Its about twice what Kaleb usually pays

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/runs-head-gasket-blown-1small-dent-lf-fen
der-int-exc_W0QQitemZ4599354500QQcategoryZ6472QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

[MBZ] F-350 6.9 International Diesel on Ebay no affiliation.

[Donald Snook]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/F-350-6-9-DIESEL_W0QQitemZ4599887324QQcat
egoryZ39416QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

[MBZ] Mud Flaps

[l02turner]

Howdy -
Recently I asked the list for a source for mud flaps for W123's without 
success.  I eventually found some on eBay and rec'd them today.  The rubber 
is pretty thick with a MB Star on it.  They were 30 UK #'sterling which 
includes shipping to the US.


I haven't installed them yet and I may buy a pair for the front wheels. 
I've always liked the look of the W123 with Mud Flaps -
They were item # 8021705461 in case you want to take a look at them --  they 
also carry MF's for other cars.


Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D - 286k) 

Re: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k

[Robert & Tara Ludwick]

I'd bet trying to drive one of those things any faster than 70 would be 
like trying to hang onto a greased pig :-)


--Robert

Craig McCluskey wrote:

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 12:22:37 -0700 "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

  

Yep, but even with all that power, it still has a speed limitator
(sic) that keeps things under 70mph.



Isn't that still 20 - 25 mph faster than the older ones?


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k

[Craig McCluskey]

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 12:22:37 -0700 "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Yep, but even with all that power, it still has a speed limitator
> (sic) that keeps things under 70mph.

Isn't that still 20 - 25 mph faster than the older ones?


Craig

[MBZ] 350 SDL hydraulic pump (power steering)

[Constantine N. Polites]

I have a Vickers 266 tandem pump  which has developed a leak in the 
front seal.  Seals are underway.
Has anyone removed the front shaft/pulley ? If so what tools if any did 
you use. I have taken it apart once,
without removing the shaft/pulley so I know that it is a very delicate 
operation.  The vanes must remain in place,
removed as a unit and kept that way.  One person told me that a copper 
hammer is all that is needed, after you
remove the retaining c clip.  The center of the shaft has treading which 
is designed for a puller- the treads appear

not to be metric.

Comments welcome- please e-mail me directly.

Regards,
Constantine

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Harry Watkins]

Careful with that water hose in the radiator.  House hold pressure can be up
to 50lbs, more than some radiators can take.  Ask the preacher what happened
when I worked on one of the church buses, don't ask me.

Harry Watkins
Newton, MS
86 SDL Silver
85 300D Euro
86 SDL Gold
81 240D manual trans

Re: [MBZ] west cost road info

[ernest breakfield]

dunno' how "good" it is, but this is usually a good place to start for
highway info and shows the traffic info phone number (Cowtrans is
understandably weak for moose sightings,...):
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/
   here's an alternative way to get to what is basically the same info:
http://www.caltrans.ca.gov/

   this one isn't quite as simple to navigate, but is another alternative:
http://www.highwayconditions.com/ca.htm

   you can find others if you do a quick search on "california highway
information".


cheers!
e





> Does anyone have a good site for eye 5 road conditions? (and moose
> sightings) particularly the Siskiyous. I haven't been able to come up with
> much. Driving south this time of your isn't my idea of something fun too
> do, unless its FROM Ca TO Arizona :-)
> A happy an prosperous new year to all.  Oh and thanks Rusty for being
> there
> with the parts we need.
>
>
>
> Regards
>  Steve
> "85" Euro 240D, 5 spd manual, 110K
> "79" 240D, 5 spd manual, 20K on eng rebuild
> "94" Dodge/Cummins PU, 100K
> "82" TD project wagon
> "64" VW Bug
> "65" D15, AC tractor
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>

Re: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k

[Dave M.]

Yep, but even with all that power, it still has a speed limitator
(sic) that keeps things under 70mph. I wonder if that's anything like
a speed governator. Oh wait, no, that's the reigning power in
California, heh-heh. I bet we could find a way to bypass the limiter
but I'm not sure that vehicle would be particularly stable at higher
speeds!

-dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 11:26:18 -0700
> From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k
>
>
> Yup, that's mighty nice. Brand new, even.
>
> I noticed one thing:
>
> Engine:  280 Horsepower
>
>
> Quite an improvement over the older models.
>
>
> Craig

Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no affiliation.

[Dave M.]

Hi Craig,

ASD is a traction control of sorts. Basically, cars with ASD have a
limited-slip differential that has something like 20-40% locking all
the time, via internal clutches in the ring gear carrier. When the
computer senses wheelspin, it engages an external hydraulic system
that locks the diff up 100%, and triggers an orange warning triangle
in the center/top of the speedometer. It's easy to spot cars with ASD,
just look for the little square 'window' in the speedometer. Cars with
ASR (an electronic system without mechanical limited-slip or any
hydraulics) have the same little speedo warning light, but control
traction by reducing engine power and/or applying the rear brake to
the spinning wheel.

Only gas cars have ASR. It was optional on some 1990's cars, standard
on others. I believe it's only on M104/M119/M120 engines but that may
not be an accurate statement. ASR was never offered on diesels.
Diesels have ASD as optional equipment.

The only gas car that ever had ASD were the three different 190E-16's
(but only models shipped outside USA and Japan.) The USA got a
neutered version of the base 201.034 for some reason, and we never saw
the way cool 201.035 or 201.036 (Evolution I and II) make it across
the pond.

The 4Matic has yet a third system which is similar to ASD, complete
with speedo warning light... but MB doesn't say the 4Matic has ASD.
The 4Matics have limited slip front & rear diffs, and I think they
have the hydraulic locking for at least the rear.

Confused yet?

:-)

-Dave M.
> --
> Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 11:21:17 -0700
> From: Craig McCluskey <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no
>affiliation.
>
> On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:34:05 -0700 "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> > It looks nice, but wow the bid price sure shot up there for a car with
> > over 200k, no leather, and no ASD.
>
> Forgive my ignorance, what is ASD?
>
>
> Craig

Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start after sitting for three years!!

[Kevin]

On Wed, Dec 28, 2005 at 07:25:40AM -0800, Jim Cathey wrote:
> > Depends on the engine in particular.  Since it turned over, that's a 
> > good
> > start!  I would suggest carb cleaner in the intake to see if it brings 
> > it to
> > life. If the engine was carbuerated I would suggest a splash of gas 
> > down the
> > carbuerrator - same line of thinking.
> 
> Nothing quicker or easier than a snort of starting ether, a tool I'm
> never without.  (Just don't feed it to your MB diesels!)  If it fires,
> you need to look at the fuel delivery system (which is probably your
> problem at this point.)  I fed a snort to my genset yesterday, and it
> fired!  That proved that I had compression and spark, and that the
> valve and ignition timing were at least plausible.

You can get to at least one plug on a v8 ford van for diagnostic purposes.

But, I was going to suggest a snort of ether myself. Sometimes it just needs
a kick to wake it up.

K

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Dave M.]

Tan,

I think the new pumps are OK, but I forget. I recall that last time I
checed, the rebuilt pumps from the dealer (or Rusty) were a lot less
than new. Maybe that's no longer true? I generally prefer dealer parts
due to the warranty. I believe the dealer parts you buy through Rusty
also carry the dealer warranty (ask him for details - I'm not sure on
that.) Brian Toscano had done some research on OM60x water pumps, I
think - maybe he can add his $0.02?

Oh, btw - I would still test the t-stat (or install a new dealer
t-stat), and it wouldn't hurt to put a garden  hose in the top of the
radiator and make sure there's good flow. If the flow is normal and
outlet is still cold, to me that once again points to the water pump.
If flow is restricted, the radiator may be the problem (plugged).

:-)

+dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:22:47 -0800 (PST)
> From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
>
>
> Dave and all,
>
> I am more leaning toward to a bad water pump. When I
> turned the heater on which in turn turned the
> (electric) auxillary water pump the temp droped maybe
> 2 degrees. My feel was that the coolant was plainly
> not flowing throught the system, even the closed
> circuit.
>
> What's the story on the water pump? I guess the new
> Laso or Geba pumps at Rusty's website are no good?
>
> Tan

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Marshall Booth]

Dave M. wrote:

Hi Tan,




You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water, it should visibly open
fully by ~94°C, before the water is boiling. No pressure is needed to
make the t-stat open. I'd pull the water pump and replace it. I
suspect the impeller could be separated from the shaft - not likely,
but I'm fresh out of other ideas. I'd get a rebuilt pump from the
dealer (or OE from Rusty), that was the most economical option the
last time I checked. Please keep us updated, I'm curious what the root
cause is.



WRONG. The 603.96 & 602.96 thermostats start opening at 80 and are fully 
open at 100 deg. C.


Be SURE there's not a big air bubble (that will cause the exactly what 
you seem to be describing).


I have never had a bad 60x water pump. I've had 3 bad radiators.

Marshall
--
  Marshall Booth (who doesn't respond to unsigned questions)
  "der Dieseling Doktor" [EMAIL PROTECTED]
'87 300TD 182Kmi, '84 190D 2.2 229Kmi, '85 190D 2.0 161Kmi, '87 190D 2.5 
turbo 237kmi

Re: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k

[Dave M.]

Yeah, I noticed that $25k number in the text also. Any idea what the
market value is on this thing? I'm wondering if the misprint is in the
text, and reserve is under $125k. (??) I could see that CDI engine
alone selling for $25k!

=)

+dm

On 12/28/05, Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Looks like a misprint.  (Reserve?) price is said to be under $25K in the
> Vehicle Description.  Apparently there've been some offers; be slightly
> interesting to see what if finally goes for.
>
> j
>
>
> On 12/28/05, Dave M. <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> > Drat, they only have one at that bargain-basement price. And here I
> > was hoping for a matched pair. :-( That would definitely one-up the
> > Hummer crowd, though. There's a 6-cylinder CDI engine hidden in there
> > with 280hp. What a sweet machine!
> >
> > :-)
> >
> > -dm
> >
> > > --
> > > Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 11:45:51 -0500
> > > From: dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Subject: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k
> > >
> > >
> > > <
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600415563>
> >

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Tjohn]

126's are wonderful cars.  Make sure that you check the trunk for rust, both
in the wheel well, and underneath the package shelf (you may have to lie on
your back in the trunk to see it).  I believe that as others have stated the
380 engine is a bit underpowered, although the double chain versions are
perfectly reliable.  I actually prefer the diesel, since its low end grunt
makes it accelerate acceptably for around town driving.  You'll find that
the 560 returns mileage only a couple mpg less, and with a large plus up in
the hp department - and you could put all the hydraulic suspension knowledge
to use. You'll soon see why Kaleb swapped in the 500 engine in his.

Tjohn

82 300 SD 220K

On 12/28/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
> 126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.
>
>
>
>
>

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[David Brodbeck]

Jim Cathey wrote:

The thing is, they rarely fail in a way that stops them
pumping.  Usually they leak, or the bearings go bad.
It would be my _last_ suspect.
  


It's rare, but I know of at least one case (though not on a Mercedes) 
where the vanes corroded right off the pump impeller!  The remaining 
stub didn't pump too well.

Re: [MBZ] west cost road info

[Desert Rat]

http://makeashorterlink.com/?O2B73216C

There should also be an 800 number listed somewhere for the Highway
Patrol like we have in CA.

If you're heading to AZ on I-10, give me a shout out...I'll buy coffee.

On 12/28/05, Steve & Marci <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Does anyone have a good site for eye 5 road conditions? (and moose
> sightings) particularly the Siskiyous. I haven't been able to come up with
> much. Driving south this time of your isn't my idea of something fun too
> do, unless its FROM Ca TO Arizona :-)
> A happy an prosperous new year to all.  Oh and thanks Rusty for being there
> with the parts we need.
>
>
>
> Regards
> Steve
> "85" Euro 240D, 5 spd manual, 110K
> "79" 240D, 5 spd manual, 20K on eng rebuild
> "94" Dodge/Cummins PU, 100K
> "82" TD project wagon
> "64" VW Bug
> "65" D15, AC tractor
>
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>


--
John Freer
Palm Springs, CA
1992 500 SEL 140K "Stardust"
1985 380SL 145K "Blue Belle"

Re: [MBZ] Germanic inter-species crossover wheel adaptation?

[David Brodbeck]

Zeitgeist wrote:

Thanks for the hubcentric tip.

So, if the Audi hub centers are too small, I could theoretically take
them to a machine shop and have them opened up to MB specs--the
Vanagon guys do this all the time and claim it's relatively cheap.
  


Seeing as you have to open up Mercedes wheel centers to fit a Vanagon, 
I'm suspicious that Volkswagen/Audi may be using larger hub centers than 
Mercedes does.  In that case, fitting Audi wheels won't be as simple as 
just machining out the centers -- you'd need to make adapter rings.  
It's possible Audi sedans use a smaller hub than the Vanagons do, though.

Re: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k

[Craig McCluskey]

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 11:45:51 -0500 dave walton <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
wrote:

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4600415563&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT


Yup, that's mighty nice. Brand new, even.

I noticed one thing:

Engine:  280 Horsepower


Quite an improvement over the older models.


Craig

Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no affiliation.

[Craig McCluskey]

On Wed, 28 Dec 2005 09:34:05 -0700 "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> It looks nice, but wow the bid price sure shot up there for a car with
> over 200k, no leather, and no ASD.

Forgive my ignorance, what is ASD?


Craig

Re: [MBZ] 260E in Iowa

[Donald Snook]

Kaleb wrote:  

 

"oh I doubt it, its probably already more than I would pay :)"

 

It may not be more than I would pay for it.  At least if I can do some
research. 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Dave M.]

Shoot - I don't have it either. I'll copy the list:

=)


> On 12/28/05, Joe Knight <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Yuck!  Sounds like you're going to have to drain the cooling system anyway
> so you might want to check the rad for flow with a hose soon as its empty,
> but given the onset of symptoms it does sound most likely to be a water pump
> failure of some sort.
>
> (hm, don't seem to have Tan's addy so this to you only, Spud)
>
> j
>

Re: [MBZ] OT: online driving directions site that does US & Mexico?

[Christopher McCann]

My friend recently told me he has a CD from Garmin  that has world roads and 
then you plug into th GPS and you know the  rest... He's looking for the CD. 
Last time he looked for something for  me (A 240D manual) it took 1.5 months to 
find.
  
  Chris

Hans Neureiter <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:  Neither does Google Earth. Microsoft 
"Streets & Trips" does it.

On 12/27/05, Christopher McCann  wrote:
>
> I think I did...can't remember...will try and let you know.
>
> Chris
>
> Mike Canfield  wrote:  Try Google Earth.com  Mike
> - Original Message -
> From: "Christopher McCann"
> To:
> Sent: Monday, December 26, 2005 3:46 PM
> Subject: [MBZ] OT: online driving directions site that does US & Mexico?
>
>
> mapquest and randmcnally do not do mexico...HELP!
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
>
>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf"
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>
> -
> Yahoo! Shopping
> Find Great Deals on Holiday Gifts at Yahoo! Shopping
> ___
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>
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>
>
>
>
> Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
> -2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
> -1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
> -1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf"
> -1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
> -1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
> -1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"
>
> -
> Yahoo! DSL Something to write home about. Just $16.99/mo. or less
> ___
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>



--
Hans Neureiter, Houston, TX
'82 300SD, '95 E300D
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Christopher McCann, Squier Park, Kansas City, Missouri
-2005 Blue Point Siamese, "Rose"
-1987 300TD, 151K, "Rotkäppchen"
-1985 300SD, 210K, "Wulf" 
-1976 240D, ?K, "AKP-Wagen" (Alternativen Kraftstoffs Prüfenlastwagen)
-1972 Jacobsen 21" Turbo Vent
-1971 Case 222 Hydrive, 12HP Kohler, 38" deck, Snowcaster, "One Banger"

-
Yahoo! Photos
 Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, 
whatever.
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Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k
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List-Archive: 

[MBZ] Audi's new Le Mans contender to be diesel powered

[Gerald R. Flintrop]

Audi says it is still working out plans beyond Sebring and Le Mans.  

AutoWeek | Published 12/15/05, 11:19 am et  

Audi AG hopes it is once again a step ahead of the competition: Audi will
become the first automaker to fight for the overall win with a diesel engine
at the famous Le Mans 24 Hour race.

The new Audi R10, unveiled Dec. 13 in Paris, replaces the R8, which won the
French enduro five times. The R10 is powered by a new 5.5-liter twin-turbo
12-cylinder diesel developing more than 650 hp, about 100 hp more than the
R8s ran at Le Mans, says Audi... 


   ...The R10's chassis is also new. The wheelbase is longer than the R8,
and the chassis, engine and gearbox form an extremely rigid, fully stressed
unit.

"The R10 project is the biggest challenge ever to have been handed to Audi
Sport," said Wolfgang Ullrich, head of Audi Motorsport. "TDI technology has
not been pushed to its limits in motorsport yet. We are the first to
confront the challenge. The demands of such a project are high. We have the
chance to write new chapters in the history books of motorsport and diesel
technology."

 

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Donald Snook
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 5:49 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] New BMW Diesel

Car and Driver has an article about a new BMW diesel.  I think Car and
Driver loves BMW too much, but they did really like the little diesel.
Of course, we won't get it here. 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

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Re: [MBZ] 126

[Jim Cathey]

I am not really equipped to replace a timing chain and rails. (I don't
think.  I have never tried)  Any ideas on what it might cost at a 
decent

indy?


Circa $500 the last time I had it done.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Jim Cathey]

water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat work
exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand at
the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion rate
difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
pressure in the coolant system (applied by the water
pump) push open the valve?


These thermostats don't use bimetal, they have wax
pellets in them that expand with heat and push a piston
rod out of the housing, forcing open the spring-loaded
valve (and also closing the bypass port).

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] Cheap 260E in Iowa

[LT Don]

I already have a "new" Benz in mind and it isn't this one.

On 12/28/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Don and other Dieselers,
>
>
>
> Why don't you want to bid on this car.  I know squat about the 2.6 motor
> in these cars.  The blower motor problem concerns me because the a/c
> could be shot and their might not be a way to test it.  I understand
> that is a real pain in the ass (not to mention very costly) to get into
> the a/c on these cars.   He mentions it might need timing chain, water
> pump and head gasket. I have heard of the 3.0 engine needing head
> gaskets in the early 86-89, but is that true of this engine?  What other
> cars had this engine? Was this engine used in the 190's?
>
>
>
> Donald H. Snook
>
>
>
> ___
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> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Jim Cathey]

I am more leaning toward to a bad water pump. When I


The thing is, they rarely fail in a way that stops them
pumping.  Usually they leak, or the bearings go bad.
It would be my _last_ suspect.

I would double-double-check the thermostat, and I'd try
a flow test on the radiator, 'cause it's easy and cheap
to do.  Pull both hoses off and run water from a garden
hose through it.  It oughtn't overflow out of the top if
it's draining freely.

Also, you want to ensure there's no air bubble in the
head, backfill the head from the radiator hose when
putting it back together.

Put the thermostat in a pan of water on the stove, and
verify that it does open before boiling.

-- Jim

[MBZ] Cheap 260E in Iowa

[Donald Snook]

Don and other Dieselers, 

 

Why don't you want to bid on this car.  I know squat about the 2.6 motor
in these cars.  The blower motor problem concerns me because the a/c
could be shot and their might not be a way to test it.  I understand
that is a real pain in the ass (not to mention very costly) to get into
the a/c on these cars.   He mentions it might need timing chain, water
pump and head gasket. I have heard of the 3.0 engine needing head
gaskets in the early 86-89, but is that true of this engine?  What other
cars had this engine? Was this engine used in the 190's? 

 

Donald H. Snook

 

Re: [MBZ] Delivery valve socket for sale

[Craig McCluskey]

On Tue, 27 Dec 2005 17:46:31 -0700 "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> It's not mine - just passing along the info. It's not OE, it's a Sir
> Tools item, part# M0019. Can't beat the price, though - $10 + S&H:
> 
> http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php3?t=140389

If it's a Sir Tools tool, DO NOT waste your money or time. I bought one
and had to modify both the tool and the delivery valve to get it to work
-- once I got the delivery valve out by another method.

Sir Tools tools are junk.


Craig

[MBZ] west cost road info

[Steve & Marci]

Does anyone have a good site for eye 5 road conditions? (and moose 
sightings) particularly the Siskiyous. I haven't been able to come up with 
much. Driving south this time of your isn't my idea of something fun too 
do, unless its FROM Ca TO Arizona :-)
A happy an prosperous new year to all.  Oh and thanks Rusty for being there 
with the parts we need.




Regards
Steve
"85" Euro 240D, 5 spd manual, 110K
"79" 240D, 5 spd manual, 20K on eng rebuild
"94" Dodge/Cummins PU, 100K
"82" TD project wagon
"64" VW Bug
"65" D15, AC tractor 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Tan Qu]

Dave and all,

I am more leaning toward to a bad water pump. When I
turned the heater on which in turn turned the
(electric) auxillary water pump the temp droped maybe
2 degrees. My feel was that the coolant was plainly
not flowing throught the system, even the closed
circuit. 

What's the story on the water pump? I guess the new
Laso or Geba pumps at Rusty's website are no good? 

Tan

--- "Dave M." <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Hi Tan,
> 
> Well, the good news is, your auxiliary fan switch
> still works - this
> part is often dead after 10+ years (at least it has
> been on every W124
> owned by my family.) That also means your dash gauge
> is probably
> accurate. So you are either not getting coolant
> flow, or the radiator
> is not doing it's job properly. Since the radiator
> outlet is cold, my
> guess is you have a lack of coolant flow? I'd think
> if the radiator
> was bad, it wouldn't happen suddenly, and the outlet
> would be hot.
> 
> You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water, it
> should visibly open
> fully by ~94°C, before the water is boiling. No
> pressure is needed to
> make the t-stat open. I'd pull the water pump and
> replace it. I
> suspect the impeller could be separated from the
> shaft - not likely,
> but I'm fresh out of other ideas. I'd get a rebuilt
> pump from the
> dealer (or OE from Rusty), that was the most
> economical option the
> last time I checked. Please keep us updated, I'm
> curious what the root
> cause is.
> 
> :-)
> 
> -Dave M.
> 
> > --
> > Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 08:45:33 -0800 (PST)
> > From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Subject: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
> >
> >
> > Yesterday I noticed our 190Dt started to overheat.
> > Outside temp was around 60F's but the coolant temp
> > shot up to 120C degrees. The auxillary fans came
> on
> > but the temp still won't come down. Last night I
> > inspected the belt drive system, replaced the fan
> > clutch with a good used one and also the belt.
> Rest of
> > the belt drive parts are fairly new. Also replaced
> the
> > thermostat with a god used one. But the car still
> > overheats. Temp stayed around 118c. The coolant
> > overflow tank is clean with no oil trace. The
> upper
> > radiator hose was not pressurized when the car
> cooled
> > down. One thing I noticed was throughout whole
> time I
> > was testing the car the lower radiator hose was
> cold.
> > It seems to me the coolant did not get circulated
> > through the radiator at all. I want to suspect the
> > thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put
> in
> > was a known good one, actually came off the same
> car
> > when I did preventative maintenance.
> >
> > Any possibility that the water pump could be bad
> (put
> > in about 80k miles ago)? What usually happens when
> the
> > water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat
> work
> > exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand
> at
> > the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
> > what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion
> rate
> > difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
> > pressure in the coolant system (applied by the
> water
> > pump) push open the valve?
> >
> > Any troubleshooting ideas are greatly appreciated.
> >
> >
> > Tan
> 
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor:
> http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> 
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>
http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> 

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Mitch Haley]

My suspects for cause:
1. Bad t-stat at first, now air bubble preventing water circulation.
2. Plugged radiator.

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Donald Snook]

Ok Don wrote:

 

"I'd just check the timing chain stretch - same as on a Diesel, and look
at the rails that are visible while you're there - I think you just need
to pull the right cam cover. How many miles on it? Any history?"

 

It only has 104K.  On a diesel that would be a mixed blessing. Low
miles, but they could be all city. I don't think that is quite as bad as
on the gas motors.  Unknown history at this point. I am still
investigating.  If I do get this car, this would the lowest mileage car
I have ever had (MB or others) since I was 16.  

 

Donald H. Snook

 

Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - noaffiliation.

[Mitch Haley]

"Dave M." wrote:
>  I didn't realize Kumho tyres were made in Germany!

One guy complained in a Tirerack review that his said "made in China".
My 190Dt has new Kumho, but I never checked country of origion.

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Dave M.]

Hi Tan,

Well, the good news is, your auxiliary fan switch still works - this
part is often dead after 10+ years (at least it has been on every W124
owned by my family.) That also means your dash gauge is probably
accurate. So you are either not getting coolant flow, or the radiator
is not doing it's job properly. Since the radiator outlet is cold, my
guess is you have a lack of coolant flow? I'd think if the radiator
was bad, it wouldn't happen suddenly, and the outlet would be hot.

You can test the t-stat in a pot of hot water, it should visibly open
fully by ~94°C, before the water is boiling. No pressure is needed to
make the t-stat open. I'd pull the water pump and replace it. I
suspect the impeller could be separated from the shaft - not likely,
but I'm fresh out of other ideas. I'd get a rebuilt pump from the
dealer (or OE from Rusty), that was the most economical option the
last time I checked. Please keep us updated, I'm curious what the root
cause is.

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 08:45:33 -0800 (PST)
> From: Tan Qu <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!
>
>
> Yesterday I noticed our 190Dt started to overheat.
> Outside temp was around 60F's but the coolant temp
> shot up to 120C degrees. The auxillary fans came on
> but the temp still won't come down. Last night I
> inspected the belt drive system, replaced the fan
> clutch with a good used one and also the belt. Rest of
> the belt drive parts are fairly new. Also replaced the
> thermostat with a god used one. But the car still
> overheats. Temp stayed around 118c. The coolant
> overflow tank is clean with no oil trace. The upper
> radiator hose was not pressurized when the car cooled
> down. One thing I noticed was throughout whole time I
> was testing the car the lower radiator hose was cold.
> It seems to me the coolant did not get circulated
> through the radiator at all. I want to suspect the
> thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put in
> was a known good one, actually came off the same car
> when I did preventative maintenance.
>
> Any possibility that the water pump could be bad (put
> in about 80k miles ago)? What usually happens when the
> water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat work
> exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand at
> the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
> what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion rate
> difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
> pressure in the coolant system (applied by the water
> pump) push open the valve?
>
> Any troubleshooting ideas are greatly appreciated.
>
>
> Tan

Re: [MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Steve MacSween]

 [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

> I want to suspect the
> thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put in
> was a known good one, actually came off the same car
> when I did preventative maintenance.

Tstats can fail suddenly or never work at all. I know at one point my indy
said the failure rate on the 'German' ones sold by most parts suppliers was
1/3 or so, new out of the box.

The new one I put into my SD before the winter did what you describe for
about a week, two weeks or so after I had installed it. Then (right after I
told the parts shop it was coming back to them) it suddenly decided to
behave.

For the price vs. the cost of overheating your motor, just get a new one and
try it.

Mac

Re: [MBZ] 260E in Iowa (?)

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

oh I doubt it, its probably already more than I would pay :)

LT Don wrote:


If it does, you'll be coming north to drag another one home, won't you?

On 12/28/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:


it wont stay that cheap for long

LT Don wrote:



Nothing I plan to bid on -- just strange to see something affordable


that is


only 200 miles from my house.




http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-Mercedes-Benz-260E-Good-Condition-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ4600052523QQcategoryZ6335QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem




--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

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--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 260E in Iowa (?)

[LT Don]

If it does, you'll be coming north to drag another one home, won't you?

On 12/28/05, Kaleb C. Striplin <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> it wont stay that cheap for long
>
> LT Don wrote:
>
> > Nothing I plan to bid on -- just strange to see something affordable
> that is
> > only 200 miles from my house.
> >
> >
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-Mercedes-Benz-260E-Good-Condition-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ4600052523QQcategoryZ6335QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > 1977 240D
> > 1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle
> >
> > http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
>   89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
>   84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
>   76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
> http://www.striplin.net
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

[MBZ] Nice Unimog for $110k

[dave walton]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1,1&item=4600415563&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT

[MBZ] SOS - '87 190Dt Overheat!

[Tan Qu]

Yesterday I noticed our 190Dt started to overheat.
Outside temp was around 60F's but the coolant temp
shot up to 120C degrees. The auxillary fans came on
but the temp still won't come down. Last night I
inspected the belt drive system, replaced the fan
clutch with a good used one and also the belt. Rest of
the belt drive parts are fairly new. Also replaced the
thermostat with a god used one. But the car still
overheats. Temp stayed around 118c. The coolant
overflow tank is clean with no oil trace. The upper
radiator hose was not pressurized when the car cooled
down. One thing I noticed was throughout whole time I
was testing the car the lower radiator hose was cold.
It seems to me the coolant did not get circulated
through the radiator at all. I want to suspect the
thermostat was the culprit but the one I just put in
was a known good one, actually came off the same car
when I did preventative maintenance. 

Any possibility that the water pump could be bad (put
in about 80k miles ago)? What usually happens when the
water pump goes out? Also how does the thermostat work
exactly? I understand the the bimetal parts expand at
the different rate when the coolant temp rises but
what exactly open the valves? Does the expansion rate
difference of the bi-metal opens the valve or the
pressure in the coolant system (applied by the water
pump) push open the valve? 

Any troubleshooting ideas are greatly appreciated.


Tan

Re: [MBZ] 260E in Iowa (?)

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

it wont stay that cheap for long

LT Don wrote:


Nothing I plan to bid on -- just strange to see something affordable that is
only 200 miles from my house.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-Mercedes-Benz-260E-Good-Condition-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ4600052523QQcategoryZ6335QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen
___
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

[MBZ] 260E in Iowa (?)

[LT Don]

Nothing I plan to bid on -- just strange to see something affordable that is
only 200 miles from my house.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1989-Mercedes-Benz-260E-Good-Condition-No-Reserve_W0QQitemZ4600052523QQcategoryZ6335QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem



--
1977 240D
1972 Honda CB-500K motorcycle

http://www.airamericaradio.com/listen

Re: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no affiliation.

[Dave M.]

It looks nice, but wow the bid price sure shot up there for a car with
over 200k, no leather, and no ASD. Hmmm. Also, I didn't realize Kumho
tyres were made in Germany! Learn sumthin' new every day. All this
time I thought they were Korean. The car does look nice, though... and
as usual, is too far away from me.

:-)

+dm

> --
> Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 08:56:04 -0600
> From: "Donald Snook" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no
>affiliation.
>
> 
>
>
> Donald H. Snook

Re: [MBZ] Looking to rent differential bushing puller/press tool

[Dave M.]

Aaron,

I think PP sells the equivalent SirTools (?) version for $112, PP p/n
58-076. They call it a 'Sub Frame Bushing Tool', but it's for the
differential-to-subframe bushings, not the subframe-to-body bushings
like you'd think. I don't have one, so if you buy it and want to
re-sell it when you're done, I'd be interested. That would almost be
the cost of a rental, lol. Seriously, I don't know if anyone rents
that tool, but you could try PP and Rusty.

PP tool:
http://tinyurl.com/bfves

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 01:05:55 -0800
> From: Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Looking to rent differential bushing puller/press tool
>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Does anyone know where I can rent the puller/press tool to r&r the two
> bushings at the rear of the differential where it mounts to the
> subframe? The factory tool from MB (124-589-01-43-00) is around $500!!
> :O
>
> -Aaron
> 1987 300D
> 1987 300TD

Re: [MBZ] Is this an OM 612?

[Dave M.]

The opening bid for that Sprinter engine ain't bad. But look at the
seller's other items! OMG! How does he sell ANYTHING? His prices for
used parts are almost as high as new. Fifty bucks for a USED battery
tray? That guy is smoking some REALLY good crack.

=:-O

-dm

> --
> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 21:39:07 -0500
> From: Tjohn <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: [MBZ] Is this an OM 612?
>
>
> Is this a Sprinter engine?  Seems like a good price if so... I just wish I
> had the funds to make one work in my 126...  I have dreams of increased
> horsepower and mileage.
> http://makeashorterlink.com/?P1FB2206C
>
> Tjohn
> 82 300 SD 220K

Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update

[Dave M.]

Aaron,

Wow, I didn't know there were R129 wheels in that size. Very
interesting! It was probably smart to get the late style LCA's, now
you have the option of running whatever brakes you want. It's a shame
the Sportline LCA's are so blasted expensive (~$700 wholesale per
pair, dealer only).

Thanks for the tip on the wheel catalog, I'll try to pick one of those
up. Also thanks for the tip on the Koken tools. I assume they must be
better kwality than the ST stuff, which to date I have not been
impressed with...

:-)

-Dave M.

> --
> Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 16:58:07 -0800
> From: Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] Rear suspension link replacement - update
>
>
> Dave, the fronts are the 5-spoke 17x8 ET37 "E430 sport" wheels, and
> the rears are R129 wheels which look EXACTLY like the fronts but are
> 17x8.25 ET34. As for the control arms, I went with the regular
> 124-330-35/34-07 ones - late style with the non-removable ball joint.
> They were a LOT cheaper than the Sportline ones, that's for sure!
>
> On a side note, you should pick up the 2006 "Geniune Mercedes-Benz
> Accessories Wheels" brochure from your local MB dealer. They have LOTS
> of neat looking wheels with part numbers and all dimensions. The W209,
> R171, and W203 all have a good selection of 17x7.5 ET37 wheels, which
> IMO is the perfect size wheel for a lowered non-500E 124! If you can't
> get ahold of the catalog, I can send one over...
>
> -Aaron

Re: [MBZ] 124's

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

the one in my old 2.5 turbo was worked on.  Not sure if a complete 
rebuild but had about $1800 worth of work done to it before I got it.


Sunil Hari wrote:


I thought the trannys on these 124s were pretty bulletproof with regular
fluid changes.  Don't know why it was replaced at 150K, but I'll ask my
indy.

don't know about the rear links - are they a standard weak spot?  A/C works
well.




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 124's

[Sunil Hari]

I thought the trannys on these 124s were pretty bulletproof with regular
fluid changes.  Don't know why it was replaced at 150K, but I'll ask my
indy.

don't know about the rear links - are they a standard weak spot?  A/C works
well.

> > My MB mechanic is trying to sell me a 1992 300D 2.5T with 280Kmi on it -
> > > new
> > > transmission at 150Kmi, front end rebuilt this summer, new head, new
> > > timing
> > > chain, valve job, new tires, and everything works.  Few dents, no
> rust.
> > >
> > > He wants $4500 for it.  What's the consensus on that price?
> > >
> > > I'm interested, despite it having an auto tranny, because i've heard
> > such
> > > good things from you people about the 124 sedans.
> >
> >
> >
> > Sunil:
> >
> > If the first tranny went at 150k, and you're at 280k, I'd wonder how
> much
> > longer the present tranny would keep going.  Have the rear links been
> > replaced?  AC working?
> >
> > Tony Wirtel
> >
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
>



--
Sunil Hari
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
513-205-7474

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

have no clue since I do all my own work.

Donald Snook wrote:


Kaleb Wrote:

 

"Underpowerered but not too bad.  These will have the double row timing 

chain.  Other thing to watch for on these engines is the timing chain 


rails. They tend to break and cause the chain to jump time which in turn


bends valves."

 


I am not really equipped to replace a timing chain and rails. (I don't
think.  I have never tried)  Any ideas on what it might cost at a decent
indy? 

 


Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 


300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 


___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] 1987 124 Diesel Wagon on Ebay no affiliation

[Zeitgeist]

That's a nice car.  I like the color combo almost as much as my Pearl
Black/Grey MB-Tex TD.  I bet that auction heads close to the $10k
mark.

On 12/28/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-MB-300-DT-WAGON-DIESEL-TURBO-CARFAX-TE
> XAS-CAR_W0QQitemZ4599847232QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Casey
Olympia, WA
Biodiesel: "I drive in a persistent vegetative state"
'87 300TD intercooler (211k)
'84 300D (207k)
Gashuffer:
'89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (186K)

Re: [MBZ] 126

[OK Don]

I'd just check the timing chain stretch - same as on a Diesel, and
look at the rails that are visible while you're there - I thinl you
just need to pull the right cam cover. How many miles on it? Any
history?

On 12/28/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Kaleb Wrote:
>
>
>
> "Underpowerered but not too bad.  These will have the double row timing
>
> chain.  Other thing to watch for on these engines is the timing chain
>
> rails. They tend to break and cause the chain to jump time which in turn
>
>
> bends valves."
>
>
>
> I am not really equipped to replace a timing chain and rails. (I don't
> think.  I have never tried)  Any ideas on what it might cost at a decent
> indy?
>
>

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Donald Snook]

Kaleb Wrote:

 

"Underpowerered but not too bad.  These will have the double row timing 

chain.  Other thing to watch for on these engines is the timing chain 

rails. They tend to break and cause the chain to jump time which in turn


bends valves."

 

I am not really equipped to replace a timing chain and rails. (I don't
think.  I have never tried)  Any ideas on what it might cost at a decent
indy? 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Trampas]

Personally I prefer the longer SEL/SDLs, but that is a personal preference.
Additionally I am not a fan of the 3.8L as it is under powered to point of
bad fuel mileage. 

Over all the W126 in my opinion is the greatest car ever made! Most people
who drive a W126 keep a W126 in their stable. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of Donald Snook
Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 9:49 AM
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] 126

Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.  

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start after sitting for three years!!

[Jim Cathey]

Depends on the engine in particular.  Since it turned over, that's a 
good
start!  I would suggest carb cleaner in the intake to see if it brings 
it to
life. If the engine was carbuerated I would suggest a splash of gas 
down the

carbuerrator - same line of thinking.


Nothing quicker or easier than a snort of starting ether, a tool I'm
never without.  (Just don't feed it to your MB diesels!)  If it fires,
you need to look at the fuel delivery system (which is probably your
problem at this point.)  I fed a snort to my genset yesterday, and it
fired!  That proved that I had compression and spark, and that the
valve and ignition timing were at least plausible.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 126

[OK Don]

It should have the double row timing chain, so should be a good car.
The S class cars are a different breed than the E class - I tihnk
you'll like it. It should have a little more power than a 300SD, and
has a lower weight/HP ratio than the 300D 2.5. Try it, you might like
it.

On 12/28/05, Donald Snook <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
> 126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.
>
>
>
> Donald H. Snook

--
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
'90 300D, '87 300SDL,  '81 240D,  '78 450SLC
The FSM created the Diesel Benz
http://www.venganza.org/

Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL needs head (more likely engine)

[Jim Cathey]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/ 
eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4600042852


Hey, I kind of like that ad!  Seems pretty honest about the description.
That's the kind of car I'd be interested in these days, if I were
in the market at all.  Not a dish for everyone, though.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Jim Cathey]

Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the 
older

126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.


Well, based entirely upon my driving of a 380SL once I think you'll
find the 380 to be a pretty pedestrian motor.  But that one should
have the double timing chain, and so should be as reliable as any
other gasser MB.  My tastes in 126 gas might be more like the 300 SEL,
which is probably also a bit of a slug but at least is fairly
economical to run.  As a comparison, this friend's 380 SL gets
worse mileage than my 560 SL, and is a lot slower.  Anyway, if
the price is right it could be a decent deal for you, just don't
expect great performance.

-- Jim

Re: [MBZ] 126

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

underpowerered but not too bad.  These will have the double row timing 
chain.  Other thing to watch for on these engines is the timing chain 
rails. They tend to break and cause the chain to jump time which in turn 
bends valves.


Donald Snook wrote:


Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.  

 


Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 


300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 


___
http://www.striplin.net
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] anybody want a bunch of BMW parts?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

have no clue

kayoooh @ gmail wrote:


Message: 11
Date: Tue, 27 Dec 2005 18:37:27 -0600
From: "Kaleb C. Striplin" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [MBZ] anybody want a bunch of BMW parts?
To: Banned List <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Mercedes mailing list
<[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Message-ID: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Or know anybody that might.  Let me know.  Inventory closeout.
--




Kaleb,
Which BMW are these parts for?

Thank you,

Omar.

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start after sitting for three years!!

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

better make sure its getting spark first.

kayoooh @ gmail wrote:


Hello Listers,

This is for the Gasoline engine experts among us.

I have a 1999 Ford E 250 van which has not been started for almost the past
three years, at the time, it was parked with a quarter tank of gas.
Today I made an attempt to start it with a brand new battery but no matter
how long I cranked it would not budge, ecept for the rare appearance of
wanting to catch.
Out of desperation and not wanting to face my fears head on, I went to
AutoZone and bought two bottles of Techron gas treatment and a bottle of the
same by Gumout and another which I forget the name of now but has an S3 in
it's name or so I think.

Anyway, I dumped ALL of the above in the tank and rocked the van, so did two
of my kids, for what seemed like an eternity (hoping to mix the stuff I
poured in the tank with the old gasoline) but still, it would not start.
I could hear the electric fuel pump buzzing and the relay clicking so at
least I know the pump is operating.

Now what I fear is that either the pickup screen inside the tank is plugged
with gum and varnish or the injectors are plugged with same or both are!

Does any of you know of a certain peculiarity of  a Ford motor, or any
gasoline motor for that matter, which would cause this and what can be done
about it other than dropping the gas tank and yanking the injectors out
(which is a bear on this particular vehicle).
Is there a proven concoction which would loosen or soften the stuff causing
this (assuming it is gum/varnish which is causing it)?

I know that the causes could be many but any input you can provide will be
greatly appreciated and may help resolve this issue.

Thank you,

Omar.


___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE, 85 300D,
 84 250 LWB, 83 300TD, 81 300TD, 81 240D, 81 240D,
 76 450SEL, 76 240D, 76 300D, 74 240D, 69 250
http://www.striplin.net

[MBZ] VERY Nice 124 2.5 on ebay Central Indiana - no affiliation.

[Donald Snook]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1-family-owned-non-smoker-24-pix-NICE-TUR
BO-DIESEL_W0QQitemZ4599776367QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

[MBZ] 1987 300SDL needs head (more likely engine)

[Donald Snook]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300SDL-300SD-NOT-300D-300E_W0QQitemZ46000
42852QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

[MBZ] 126

[Donald Snook]

Anyone have any opinions about the reliability/driveability of the older
126 380SE. I found an 85 that appears to be VERY nice.  

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

[MBZ] 1987 124 Diesel Wagon on Ebay no affiliation

[Donald Snook]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/87-MB-300-DT-WAGON-DIESEL-TURBO-CARFAX-TE
XAS-CAR_W0QQitemZ4599847232QQcategoryZ6330QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

This confidential message may be subject to the attorney-client
privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.  

 

[MBZ] Treatment for Leather

[l02turner]

Someone was asking about something to bring back leather seats - I bought 
some stuff called Gliptone - a starter kit was ~$20 IIRC I bought it to try 
out on the 85 300D leather seats I installed a while back..  In addition to 
cleaning the leather better than anything else I'd  tried, it has a great 
smell - very much like new car smell.


A net search will provide a vendor/s although I think I bought my kit from 
somewhere in the UK.


Good luck -

Sincerely,
Larry T (78 240D)
A Blood Test for your oil - www.youroil.net
For Test Results http://members.rennlist.com/oil
Weber Carb Stuff http://members.rennlist.com/webercarbs
http://members.rennlist.com/my_911/Index.htm For my Paint Job Info 

Re: [MBZ] Looking to rent differential bushing puller/press tool

[brian toscano]

By the way, the FSM also references a tool to make sure the diff ends up
square.  I am not aware of anyone who uses that tool.  Maybe someone is.
Most just put the new bushings back in the same location as the old ones.
Also be sure to note the bushings are not symmetric.

Brian



On 12/28/05, brian toscano <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> You can buy it from Baum Tool in Florida for about $100 or you can do it
> without the tools which aren't really necessary but make life eaiser than
> sockets, washers, nuts, and threaded rods.
>
> Brian
>
>
>
> On 12/28/05, Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
> >
> > Hello all,
> >
> > Does anyone know where I can rent the puller/press tool to r&r the two
> > bushings at the rear of the differential where it mounts to the
> > subframe? The factory tool from MB (124-589-01-43-00) is around $500!!
> > :O
> >
> > -Aaron
> > 1987 300D
> > 1987 300TD
> >
> > ___
> > http://www.striplin.net
> > For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> > For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> >
> > To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> > http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> >
>
>

Re: [MBZ] Looking to rent differential bushing puller/press tool

[brian toscano]

You can buy it from Baum Tool in Florida for about $100 or you can do it
without the tools which aren't really necessary but make life eaiser than
sockets, washers, nuts, and threaded rods.

Brian



On 12/28/05, Aaron Lam <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:
>
> Hello all,
>
> Does anyone know where I can rent the puller/press tool to r&r the two
> bushings at the rear of the differential where it mounts to the
> subframe? The factory tool from MB (124-589-01-43-00) is around $500!!
> :O
>
> -Aaron
> 1987 300D
> 1987 300TD
>
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Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start after sitting for three years!!

[brian toscano]

Depends on the engine in particular.  Since it turned over, that's a good
start!  I would suggest carb cleaner in the intake to see if it brings it to
life. If the engine was carbuerated I would suggest a splash of gas down the
carbuerrator - same line of thinking.

Brian


On 12/28/05, Trampas <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> First determine if problem is fuel, fire, compression or timing. Remove
> air
> intake from throttle body, spray a little carb cleaner or ether in
> throttle
> body, if engine starts then problem is fuel. If not then it is fire,
> compression or timing.
>
> Assuming problem is fuel, the next step is to check fuel pressure, there
> is
> a Schrader valve on fuel rail for checking fuel pressure. Screw on a fuel
> pressure gauge, cycle key a few times leaving key on for about 2 seconds
> each time. Fuel pressure should read around 40psi if not then check fuel
> filters and fuel pump(s), yes some of the Fords had two pumps one in tank
> and high pressure on frame. Also check inerti switch (accident fuel cut
> off
> switch) usually on passenger foot well under dash).
>
> OK assuming pressure is ok get a sample of fuel in a clear container, look
> for rust and water in fuel. This is actually the most common problem. The
> fuel filter rusts out and then rust plugs up screens on the injectors. If
> you find rust then you need to remove upper intake and fuel injectors.
> Then
> you can usually turn injectors upside down and tap out the rust from the
> screens. Then check each injector before putting back in for flow. With
> fuel
> rail off jumper the fuel pump relay (green relay) and let fuel pump run
> and
> pump old gunk into container for disposal. Replace injectors fuel filter
> and
> gas and try again.
>
> Trampas
>
> -Original Message-
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
> On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wednesday, December 28, 2005 7:07 AM
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start
> after sitting for three years!!
>
> Since the van has sat for such a long time the other thing you could try
> is
> change the plugs out and a new air filter if its clogged. Other than
> removing the fuel tank and injectors you could also fill the tank with as
> much fresh gas as you can get. Remove the breather hose near the intake
> and
> check for obstructions as well as the throttle body and make sure its not
> sticking and there is no build up on the throttle plates. Any vehicle that
> has sat for that long, its anyones guess what critters could have made a
> home in your air intake.
>
> 69 280 SEL 120,000 Miles
> 72 350SL   108,000 Miles
> 2004 VW Passat 4 Motion
> 1999 Mazda Miata
>
>
> -Original Message-
> From: kayoooh @ gmail <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Wed, 28 Dec 2005 04:44:17 -0600
> Subject: [MBZ] I need help starting an engine which would not start after
> sitting for three years!!
>
>
> Hello Listers,
>
> This is for the Gasoline engine experts among us.
>
> I have a 1999 Ford E 250 van which has not been started for almost the
> past
> three years, at the time, it was parked with a quarter tank of gas.
> Today I made an attempt to start it with a brand new battery but no matter
> how long I cranked it would not budge, ecept for the rare appearance of
> wanting to catch.
> Out of desperation and not wanting to face my fears head on, I went to
> AutoZone and bought two bottles of Techron gas treatment and a bottle of
> the
> same by Gumout and another which I forget the name of now but has an S3 in
> it's name or so I think.
>
> Anyway, I dumped ALL of the above in the tank and rocked the van, so did
> two
> of my kids, for what seemed like an eternity (hoping to mix the stuff I
> poured in the tank with the old gasoline) but still, it would not start.
> I could hear the electric fuel pump buzzing and the relay clicking so at
> least I know the pump is operating.
>
> Now what I fear is that either the pickup screen inside the tank is
> plugged
> with gum and varnish or the injectors are plugged with same or both are!
>
> Does any of you know of a certain peculiarity of  a Ford motor, or any
> gasoline motor for that matter, which would cause this and what can be
> done
> about it other than dropping the gas tank and yanking the injectors out
> (which is a bear on this particular vehicle).
> Is there a proven concoction which would loosen or soften the stuff
> causing
> this (assuming it is gum/varnish which is causing it)?
>
> I know that the causes could be many but any input you can provide will be
> greatly appreciated and may help resolve this issue.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Omar.
>
>
> ___
> http://www.striplin.net
> For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
> For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
>
> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
> http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net
> ___

[MBZ] New BMW Diesel

[Donald Snook]

Car and Driver has an article about a new BMW diesel.  I think Car and
Driver loves BMW too much, but they did really like the little diesel.
Of course, we won't get it here. 

 

Donald H. Snook

McDonald, Tinker, Skaer, Quinn & Herrington, P.A. 

300 West Douglas

P.O. Box 207

Wichita, Kansas 67201 0207

Tel. (316) 263-5851

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privilege or protected by the attorney work-product doctrine. If you
have recieved this message in error, please delete it and notify me.