Re: [MBZ] Emergency power steering hose repair

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I've seen hoses covered with a piece of PVC pipe split lengthwise then 
hose clamps applied to keep the pipe in place.  Mostly it depends on 
what the hole looks like.  There are lots pf different hose repair kits 
available - do a search and see all the different methods.  Might find 
something to work til you find a used/new hose or repair yours...


Good luck -

Larry


On 09/03/2018 4:17 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

Wrapped it up but it still leaks. The hole appears to be right where it



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Re: [MBZ] Can I reuse this hose fitting?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Along with Oil Analysis Services, I also sell a few banjo fittings -- I 
need the size to check & see what my supplier has.   I normally sell 
Banjo fittings to be used with Weber Carbs, fuel pumps, pressure control 
kits, etc.  We have both barb or AN fittings.   Our most common AN size 
is -6  


but if the hoses are professionally crimped/assembled better to do as 
suggested.


LarryT


On 09/01/2018 8:57 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

A good hose shop will have all the right stuff to remove the crimp and save
the fitting.

They will also have the right hose to make up a replacement, and crimp it
properly.

The crimp sleeve will be cut off and the barbed feral inside the hose
saved, undamaged.
A new proper sized crimp sleeve will be put on that will hold the pressure
required...

Should be an easy "in and out" job..

On Sat, Sep 1, 2018 at 5:22 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Looks like patience is the answer, Parks doesn't have the banjo fitting.
Now do I special order an aftermarket part or a dealer part, or try Napa
when they open next week.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

On September 1, 2018 6:32:49 PM EDT, Max Dillon 
wrote:

I think the ferrule on my fittings was originally part of the fitting,
and the deformed part of the ferrule became the "barbs" that held the
hose in place.

I'll need either new fittings / custom made hose assembly, or be
patient and wait for delivery of the part.
--
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'87 300TD
'95 E300

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Re: [MBZ] '84 Jaguar XJS money pit on BAT

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Ha!  I was offered one just like this one for $1200 a couple of years 
ago.  A brief moment of sanity allowed me to say no and never look back :-)


LarryT

91 300D
06 E350
0Explorer6

On 08/27/2018 12:55 PM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

Gets no love whatsoever.  The seller will regret all the money he has
poured into this classic but low demand car.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1984-jaguar-xjs/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2018-08-27
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max,

 * I'll keep looking at my shop manuals, but I guess I'll probably have
   to wait until I get the C Clip off and will use my mirror to see the
   bolts behind the hub.  Of course, the way Mitch describes it, I
   don't have to worry about the outer CV flange bolts.  I'm not
   visualizing it that way but he may be very correct - I know he is
   familiar with these things

The pdf # 35-130 is great for showing details of the rear hub/carrier.  
At least that's the image I've been using to visualize what I'll be 
facing  Thanks for the comments -


LarryT


On 08/22/2018 6:49 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Mitch & Larry, some of the suspension link fasteners need the special
socket bits (triple square?) on the later 124 cars, I don't remember if
they are the outer ends of the links or the inner ends but I do remember
them when I overhauled the rear suspension on my '95 and my '87.
-
Max
Charleston SC


On Tue, Aug 21, 2018 at 7:55 PM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to
do to the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the
hub, and thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines
so it can stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No
E-anything sockets needed.




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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Mitch!

    So it's nice to hear that the outer CV flange is not bolted to the 
Carrier assy.   I guess add'l bolts aren't needed since it has that 30mm 
nut on the end of the axle.


Thanks again!

Larry


On 08/21/2018 7:55 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

If you're taking the whole hub assembly to the shop, then all you need to do to 
the axle is take the big (36mm on my ML) nut off that holds it to the hub, and 
thump it with a mallet to get it sliding freely in the hub splines so it can 
stay with the differential while you walk away with the hub. No E-anything 
sockets needed.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Oh, no, no, no, no. ;-)  I was unclear somewhere else I don't have a 
good idea of my plan.


Let me try again:

 * Remove wheel
 * Unstake 30mm nut and remove C Clip.
 * Use small sledge to break axle shaft loose (spray liberally with
   penetrating fluid)
 * Remove rotor
 * Remove backing plate
 * Unbolt Outer CV joint from back of Carrier
 * Unbolt 5 point Suspension
 * Separate Tie rod and remove bolt.
 * Remove Carrier and take to Suspension shop and have then R&R the
   bearings.

I am not planning to attempt to remove the hub which is what I call the 
pressed on part that has the 5 lug bolt holes in it.


I hope I won't run into too much rust - so far the car has been rust 
free (except for the rear susp to chassis connection) but I plan to use 
penetrating early and often allowing it to soak...


Thanks gang!  Hopefully I hope I will have a chance to work on this 
later this week,  we're supposed to get a break in humidity Thurs.


Larry

91 300D



On 08/16/2018 8:52 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

So the plan is to leave the suspension alone, pull the axle out from the back, 
and press out the bearing in situ?

So you need the bearing tool and a means of removing both ends of the axle?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang!

The bolts that hold the outer CV flange to the carrier, are they what 
are called E10  (or E15) - as opposed toi the more standard Allen head 
bolts?


Still getting my tools ready --

Thanks ya'll!

LarryT


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang,

I'm making sure I have the proper tools on hand so I can start the rear 
wheel brg R&R as soon as we get some cooler weather.


I will have the 12 pt axle nut socket later today and need to know what 
kind of heads the 6 bolts holding the axle shaft flange to the back of 
the carrier are.  It seems some use E10 fasteners but I don't want to 
buy a E10 socket unless I need it although quality sockets are less than $3.


Again - for a 1991 300D 2.5T (best car in the world)

LarryT

On 07/30/2018 7:42 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Here's the SIR B-90 in action.
I've seen the B-90 master kit offered for a bit under $600.
Not sure what the Mercedes only version sells for.
And I've seen no-name versions for under $400.

You can see the one inner bearing race on the hub flange after he pulls it out 
of the hub housing:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N0n_Cg_mbUQ


On July 29, 2018 at 11:11 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:


Sounds like I should leave it to a shop with a puller ;-)

Actually I am looking at the cost of the tools in case I am feeling
especially energetic after I get all the preliminary stuff out of the
way.  That's unlikely, but you never know...


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Re: [MBZ] (no subject)

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

That must be what Maxine Waters was talking about when she worried Guam 
was in danger of sinking if we kept increasing our military presence there.


;-^

LarryT


On 08/09/2018 5:28 PM, Mountain Man via Mercedes wrote:

Craig wrote:

No, it's not sea level rise. It's the earth sinking.

Earth sinking - sounds plausible, fracking, oil pumping as assistant
to the cause.
tin

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Re: [MBZ] Windmill tower wastefullness WUZ: OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

the proponents never talk about these unintended consequences Curley has 
pointed out ...  as usual.


Used to be we did "Risk/benefit Analysis" on stuff.

LarryT


On 08/09/2018 8:37 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Some of it depends on the care taken in installation.  (Generally 
little to none.)  The soil where the concrete is poured for the 
foundation can never be restored to the same productivity, assuming 
the electric company would actually remove the tower and the 
concrete.  The soil compacted by the construction will take decades to 
return to the original productivity.


If you drive your pickup across a field today, next year the tracks 
will be seen in the field map as lower yield.   Yes, that is how 
accurate the current precision farming apps are.


The towers abandoned by HELCO about 20 years ago are still there. 
Ugly, rusty, and unused.  They cost too much to take down to cover it 
by the scrap value.


I don't know the current base dimensions.  Somewhere around 300 to 400 
square feet per tower, I'd guess.


Each tower probably lowers the productivity on about an acre, I'd 
guess, allowing for all the truck and crane traffic.


multiply that by thousands of towers, and you start to get the picture.

Curt Raymond wrote:
How much farmland is ruined by a wind turbine? Does corn care about 
sharing the fields? Is it worse than a cell tower?


Curt



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Re: [MBZ] Highly OT: Solar losing steam in Mass.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I wonder how long the other monopolies will be allowed to exist? Hmm, 
Microsoft, twitter, Facebook and others come to mind. Especially when 
they start to censor certain viewpoints as being too offensive.   It's 
outrageous! I say!! ;-) We need to demand action!  (sorry, i don't do 
sarcasm very well in writing.. ) ;-)


The Big Bell companies were dismantled in the early 70s.  I wonder why 
these Tech giants have been given a pass?


Larry T


On 07/26/2018 1:56 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Classic cat and mouse game between massive profits by utilities mega giants
and the individual right to generate your own electricity and sell it to
the grid...

Mega giants see profits leaking, run to legislature and congress to lobby
their position back to being the only game in town

Seems there have been some classic examples of this in the past... u...
Monopoly  yes... that's the word...

On Thu, Jul 26, 2018 at 7:18 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


For Curt et al.

Mass. is losing steam in solar growth
[image: Massachusetts Gov. Charlie Baker (R) is seen speaking to veterans
in 2015. Photo credit: Massachusetts National Guard/Flickr.]

Massachusetts has seen a dip in solar power after implementing a demand
charge. Gov. Charlie Baker (R), seen here, and state lawmakers are debating
a way forward. Massachusetts National Guard/Flickr

Massachusetts' solar industry is experiencing growing pains. The
commonwealth's ambitious solar policies have resulted in 2.1 gigawatts of
installed solar capacity, good for sixth in the nation.

But the Bay State's solar industry now faces an uncertain future. A cap on
net metering, the credits paid to panel-owning consumers who send power
back to the grid, had already constrained growth. Then, in January, state
regulators signed off on a plan allowing one of the Bay State's leading
utilities to impose new charges on its solar customers.

Solar installations and employment have plummeted in recent years. The
Solar Energy Industries Association, a trade group, estimates the industry
shed roughly 3,000 jobs between 2016 and 2017, as annual residential
installations fell from 162 megawatts to 85 MW in Massachusetts.

"What the industry wants is to know what the playing field is," said Dan
Bosley, a former Democratic state representative who now works as a
consultant for the Northeast Clean Energy Council. "I think the health of
the industry hinges on getting some of these questions answered."

Now state lawmakers are getting involved. On one side is the state Senate,
which unanimously passed a comprehensive energy bill that would eliminate
the cap on net metering and limit the instances in which utilities can
impose charges on solar customers.

Then there's the state House. The lower chamber passed a series of energy
bills but ultimately declined to weigh in on the Senate's solar proposals.
The two sides are now attempting to iron out their differences in
conference committee before the legislative session ends Tuesday.

The debate comes as state officials are set to roll out a revamped program
that provides subsidies to panel-owning consumers. But solar interests
worry that the program's launch could be impeded by the Department of
Public Utilities' decision to allow Eversource Energy, a utility, to impose
a demand charge on solar customers.

"It would be a very real problem if those charges go into place at the end
of the year," said Evan Dube, senior director of public policy at Sunrun
Inc., a solar installer.

He voiced support for the Senate bill, which would only allow utilities to
impose demand charges typically assessed against peak electricity use, on
consumers with smart meters. That would limit their impact to consumers who
can track their electricity use.

Eversource, for its part, has argued that the growing prevalence of
solar-owning customers has resulted in a cost shift, with consumers without
panels paying more for the transmission and distribution system.

In a statement, the Boston-based utility declined to weigh in on the
legislative debate. Instead, it touted its own solar commitment, noting
that it's in the process of bringing 70 MW of solar online by the end of
2018.

Dan Dolan, director of the New England Power Generators Association,
worries about Massachusetts offering additional subsidies at a time when it
is already granting long-term contracts to offshore wind and hydropower
operators.

"We're facing resources that are not subject to market economics that are
being paid outside the marketplace," he said. "While solar's operations in
the summer have been really strong, by having these resources that are
subsidized, they lower overall prices for the resources that are needed for
reliability."

The stakes of Massachusetts' solar debate were on display during a recent
heat wave in New England. The regional grid operator, ISO New England,
reported that residential solar lowered peak power demand by 2,000 MW
durin

Re: [MBZ] OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Speaking of wind machines - They were proposed off Martha's Vineyard, 
but T Kennedy thought they would spoil the view and he managed to block 
them.  Don't know if his efforts managed to keep them away after his death.


I think we are building them off the coast of Va - but that's thanks to 
some very far left democrats being elected Gov.  The large populations 
around DC and Norfolk overwhelm the vote of central Va and rural Va.  
Seems like wind machines have a few unintended circumstances tied to them.


LarryT


On 08/08/2018 7:24 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

There’s been talk about wind machines offshore but I don’t think we are well 
suited for that. Solar could be a good option but the utilities and legislature 
have conspired against residential solar so that’s problematic too.

SC legislature is looking to make a Great Leap Forward into the 20th century 
just as soon as The Wa is over in another 100 years or so. Gov. Foghorn 
will start to get it organized after the election.

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Aug 8, 2018, at 7:05 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Underwater generators have been towed behind sailboats for decades to recharge 
the batteries when the sun ain't shining or often in place of solar panels 
completely.  Sounds like a similar kind of thing  but on  a larger scale - is 
that what you are proposing?   There's also electricity generators that use the 
rising/dropping of the tide to generate electricity.

I'm not sure how getting the power from the ocean to the cities/rural areas 
would work, but  I suspect there's a way, but electricity is not my strong 
suite.

LarryT



On 08/08/2018 4:30 PM, ROGER HALE via Mercedes wrote:
Gee, SC has a coast.  Why don't they go out into the water and install the wave 
boards that generate electricity from the oceans waves.  No nukes, coal, petro, 
ruined rivers, etc.  Haven't seen a cost breakdown on the wave board system, 
but it seems good as the waves work whether the Sun is shining or not.  Would 
probably need some way to drop them and lock them when a Hurricane comes 
through.  Just a thought...

Best Wishes,

Roger

Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com
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Re: [MBZ] OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Underwater generators have been towed behind sailboats for decades to 
recharge the batteries when the sun ain't shining or often in place of 
solar panels completely.  Sounds like a similar kind of thing  but on  a 
larger scale - is that what you are proposing?   There's also 
electricity generators that use the rising/dropping of the tide to 
generate electricity.


I'm not sure how getting the power from the ocean to the cities/rural 
areas would work, but  I suspect there's a way, but electricity is not 
my strong suite.


LarryT


On 08/08/2018 4:30 PM, ROGER HALE via Mercedes wrote:

Gee, SC has a coast.  Why don't they go out into the water and install the wave 
boards that generate electricity from the oceans waves.  No nukes, coal, petro, 
ruined rivers, etc.  Haven't seen a cost breakdown on the wave board system, 
but it seems good as the waves work whether the Sun is shining or not.  Would 
probably need some way to drop them and lock them when a Hurricane comes 
through.  Just a thought...

Best Wishes,

Roger

Roger Hale
Dinnerware Classics, Inc.
Monroe, Ga.
770-267-0850
www.dinnerwareclassics.com
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Re: [MBZ] Cache of Mercedes Benz - cars

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I owned one just like that in the late 80s.  same color, etc. Loved that 
car!  What I'm excited about are the 9 124 wagons Gas & diesel.


Course that's a long way from Va. Then I'm not physically able to do 
that kind of stuff anymore.  (Working on it though)  ;-)


LarryT


On 08/08/2018 11:38 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

I'm already drooling over the MAROON 280SE L 4.5.  Tie me up please.

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 9:38 AM, M. Mitchell Marmel via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Didn't know Kaleb had moved to Eureka Springs...

https://fayar.craigslist.org/cto/d/cache-of-mercedes-benz/6664771415.html
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Re: [MBZ] OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Whoops was the acronym for a bunch of nukes that were supposed to use a 
cookie cutter design.  Course it never turned out that way.


The original was Washington Public Power Supply System (WPPSS). Only one 
of 5 ever came on line.   More Billion$ down the tube.


As someone once said "when the govt is involved, better get a tight hold 
onto your wallet"!


LarryT


On 08/08/2018 12:50 AM, clay monroe via Mercedes wrote:

Washington had a massive fraud event on a pretty egregious level.  Billions of 
tax payer dollars to build five power plants.  Only one ever came online.  The 
public utilities sold bonds for the build.  Rate payers ended up with the bill. 
 This was around 1984.  Known as Whoops!  We were going to get electrons for 
less than it cost to suck them out of the rivers with dams.  Screw BPA.

A person would think somebody would have done a bit of research and found this 
out.


clay monroe
redgh...@comcast.net




On Aug 7, 2018, at 9:08 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes 
 wrote:

This thing is turning out to be the most massive fraud ever perpetrated on the 
public (SC anyway) and a goodly fraction of our elected “representatives” are 
totally complicit in it. The utility and its investors need to take the haircut 
and a whole bunch from top to bottom public and private and in-between need to 
go to prison after losing everything they have.

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Aug 7, 2018, at 11:58 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes 
 wrote:

UTILITIESScana accountant testifies she was made to lie about reactor
costsPublished:
Tuesday, August 7, 2018

A former accountant for Scana Corp. has testified that top executives at
the utility pressured her to lie to regulators about how much it would cost
to complete a S.C. nuclear project that was later abandoned.

Carlette Walker, who was responsible for spending oversight at the V.C.
Summer project, had to give sworn statements to state regulators on the
increased rates that subsidiary SCE&G was charging customers to fund the
two reactors.

Walker said she quit in June 2016 "because I wasn't going to lie," and
named a former chief executive, a former operations chief and former chief
financial officer when asked during the deposition who forced her to lie.

A voicemail left by Walker in early 2016 was also played for the circuit
court judge, who is overseeing the civil suit that seeks $2 billion in
compensation for utility customers — the amount they've paid to date for
the project.

In the voicemail, Walker is heard accusing Scana executives of "breaking
every friggin' law that you can break," and propping up the project to hit
profit targets and collect millions in bonuses (Tom Barton, Columbia [S.C.]
*State*
,
Aug. 3). *— DI*
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Re: [MBZ] OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Then the movie "/China Syndrome/" came out.  Huge piece of pure 
propaganda.  But it changed a lot of people opinions. Unfortunately too 
many people get their view of the world through movies/TV.


LarryT


On 08/08/2018 10:58 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

In the early days of irrational exuberance, nuclear power was touted
as "too cheap to meter".

On Wed, Aug 8, 2018 at 12:50 AM, clay monroe via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Washington had a massive fraud event on a pretty egregious level.
Billions of tax payer dollars to build five power plants.  Only one ever
came online.  The public utilities sold bonds for the build.  Rate payers
ended up with the bill.  This was around 1984.  Known as Whoops!  We were
going to get electrons for less than it cost to suck them out of the rivers
with dams.  Screw BPA.

A person would think somebody would have done a bit of research and found
this out.


clay monroe
redgh...@comcast.net




On Aug 7, 2018, at 9:08 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

This thing is turning out to be the most massive fraud ever perpetrated

on the public (SC anyway) and a goodly fraction of our elected
“representatives” are totally complicit in it. The utility and its
investors need to take the haircut and a whole bunch from top to bottom
public and private and in-between need to go to prison after losing
everything they have.

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Aug 7, 2018, at 11:58 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

UTILITIESScana accountant testifies she was made to lie about reactor
costsPublished:
Tuesday, August 7, 2018

A former accountant for Scana Corp. has testified that top executives at
the utility pressured her to lie to regulators about how much it would

cost

to complete a S.C. nuclear project that was later abandoned.

Carlette Walker, who was responsible for spending oversight at the V.C.
Summer project, had to give sworn statements to state regulators on the
increased rates that subsidiary SCE&G was charging customers to fund the
two reactors.

Walker said she quit in June 2016 "because I wasn't going to lie," and
named a former chief executive, a former operations chief and former

chief

financial officer when asked during the deposition who forced her to

lie.

A voicemail left by Walker in early 2016 was also played for the circuit
court judge, who is overseeing the civil suit that seeks $2 billion in
compensation for utility customers — the amount they've paid to date for
the project.

In the voicemail, Walker is heard accusing Scana executives of "breaking
every friggin' law that you can break," and propping up the project to

hit

profit targets and collect millions in bonuses (Tom Barton, Columbia

[S.C.]

*State*
,

Aug. 3). *— DI*
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Re: [MBZ] OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Do you know if Hartsville 1is up & running? I think it was one of the 
first nukes built and its time for retirement was coming up.


At least I think it was called Hartsville 1. I guess they wouldn't call 
it #1 until the next reactors were approved?  I seem to recall hearing 
comments about what you are saying about the govt & util in bed 
together.  No one was interested in reducing cost even at that early 
stage.  We offered (constr mgmnt) suggested ways for the crews to stay 
inside the containment longer so we wouldn't lose so much productivity 
going in and coming out 5 times/shift. IIRC Thanks for refreshing  my 
memory.


Man, I don't miss that frustrating work even a little.

LarryT



On 08/08/2018 11:20 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

Oh that’s the existing plant then. This debacle is about a new plant they 
started to build and got $2 or $4bil into and realized it was never going to 
work out. They actually realized that early on but kept spending on it. The key 
was that the legislature voted a deal where the ratepayers funded the 
construction out of bill surcharges rather than the utilities getting bonds for 
it. So there was no incentive to economize or be successful. An alliance 
between the gummint and the utilities doomed us. And all the same scalawags are 
now trying to “fix” it while the utility execs are walking off with huge golden 
parachute payments, courtesy the rate/taxpayers.

Great deal if you can get it.

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Aug 8, 2018, at 12:03 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

When I was there they kept having alarms for "Airborne" which made everything stop until they found the problem.  
Usually it was false alarms.  It's been a while since I was there - seems like Duke Power & Light was involved as a partner 
in the fiasco. I don't think Central SC is on a earthquake fault but most of the mode we installed were mandated following the 
mess at 3 mile Island.  We had to install pipe supports the size of desks to support 2" or 3" Fire Water pipe 
"in case".  I'm all for safety but there should have been risk analysis done.   The work crew would go into the 
containment, suit up (about 1.5 hr) then they'd go in through the safety doors which took another 1.5 ho for the crew to all be 
inside.  By now it's approaching 10am and at 1115 (IIRC) they'd come out, change clothes and put street clothes back on, get 
lunch and then "around" 1PM they'd start going back into the containment requiring the jump suits, duct tape around 
the ankles and wrists, booties masks hats, etc then start going through the interlock chamber (again iirc) and the whole thing 
would start over.  Of course they'd come out for their afternoon break around 230 and by the take they took their 30 min and 
suited back up, etc, etc they'd be back in and if we were lucky we'd get maybe (on a good day) 2 hours of productivity.  I 
think the crazy break rules may have come from Duke P&L which I think was a union shop.  But I may be confusing the 
Airborne alarms with the Nuke I worked in Ill.  Seems they had them constantly...

(This was back in the early 80s and things are hopefully different now)  I 
hope...  And people wonder why nukes had trouble meeting schedules and 
budgets

Ahh, memories ;-)   I'm possibly confusing the memories a bit... but I don't 
think so...

LarryT



On 08/07/2018 9:13 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:
Yeah I think. It was a complete disaster, not sure how far along they got.

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:33 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Wow!

Is this the Nuke near Hartsville?  I work there for the contractor doing Three 
Mile Island mods to the fire suppression systems.  It was short term while 
between other projects.  I worked on Constructions Budgets and Schedules but 
the contractor I worked for was not mentioned below.

LarryT



On 08/07/2018 11:58 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
UTILITIESScana accountant testifies she was made to lie about reactor
costsPublished:
Tuesday, August 7, 2018

A former accountant for Scana Corp. has testified that top executives at
the utility pressured her to lie to regulators about how much it would cost
to complete a S.C. nuclear project that was later abandoned.

Carlette Walker, who was responsible for spending oversight at the V.C.
Summer project, had to give sworn statements to state regulators on the
increased rates that subsidiary SCE&G was charging customers to fund the
two reactors.

Walker said she quit in June 2016 "because I wasn't going to lie," and
named a former chief executive, a former operations chief and former chief
financial officer when asked during the deposition who forced her to lie.

A voicemail left by Walker in early 2016 was also played for the circuit
court judge, who is overseeing the civil 

Re: [MBZ] OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

When I was there they kept having alarms for "Airborne" which made 
everything stop until they found the problem.  Usually it was false 
alarms.  It's been a while since I was there - seems like Duke Power & 
Light was involved as a partner in the fiasco. I don't think Central SC 
is on a earthquake fault but most of the mode we installed were mandated 
following the mess at 3 mile Island.  We had to install pipe supports 
the size of desks to support 2" or 3" Fire Water pipe "in case".  I'm 
all for safety but there should have been risk analysis done.   The work 
crew would go into the containment, suit up (about 1.5 hr) then they'd 
go in through the safety doors which took another 1.5 ho for the crew to 
all be inside.  By now it's approaching 10am and at 1115 (IIRC) they'd 
come out, change clothes and put street clothes back on, get lunch and 
then "around" 1PM they'd start going back into the containment requiring 
the jump suits, duct tape around the ankles and wrists, booties masks 
hats, etc then start going through the interlock chamber (again iirc) 
and the whole thing would start over.  Of course they'd come out for 
their afternoon break around 230 and by the take they took their 30 min 
and suited back up, etc, etc they'd be back in and if we were lucky we'd 
get maybe (on a good day) 2 hours of productivity.  I think the crazy 
break rules may have come from Duke P&L which I think was a union shop.  
But I may be confusing the Airborne alarms with the Nuke I worked in 
Ill.  Seems they had them constantly...


(This was back in the early 80s and things are hopefully different now)  
I hope...  And people wonder why nukes had trouble meeting schedules and 
budgets


Ahh, memories ;-)   I'm possibly confusing the memories a bit... but I 
don't think so...


LarryT


On 08/07/2018 9:13 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

Yeah I think. It was a complete disaster, not sure how far along they got.

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Aug 7, 2018, at 8:33 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Wow!

Is this the Nuke near Hartsville?  I work there for the contractor doing Three 
Mile Island mods to the fire suppression systems.  It was short term while 
between other projects.  I worked on Constructions Budgets and Schedules but 
the contractor I worked for was not mentioned below.

LarryT



On 08/07/2018 11:58 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:
UTILITIESScana accountant testifies she was made to lie about reactor
costsPublished:
Tuesday, August 7, 2018

A former accountant for Scana Corp. has testified that top executives at
the utility pressured her to lie to regulators about how much it would cost
to complete a S.C. nuclear project that was later abandoned.

Carlette Walker, who was responsible for spending oversight at the V.C.
Summer project, had to give sworn statements to state regulators on the
increased rates that subsidiary SCE&G was charging customers to fund the
two reactors.

Walker said she quit in June 2016 "because I wasn't going to lie," and
named a former chief executive, a former operations chief and former chief
financial officer when asked during the deposition who forced her to lie.

A voicemail left by Walker in early 2016 was also played for the circuit
court judge, who is overseeing the civil suit that seeks $2 billion in
compensation for utility customers — the amount they've paid to date for
the project.

In the voicemail, Walker is heard accusing Scana executives of "breaking
every friggin' law that you can break," and propping up the project to hit
profit targets and collect millions in bonuses (Tom Barton, Columbia [S.C.]
*State*
<https://www.thestate.com/news/politics-government/article216050955.html>,
Aug. 3). *— DI*
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Re: [MBZ] OT (for Rich): Ongoing nuke soap opera in SC

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Wow!

Is this the Nuke near Hartsville?  I work there for the contractor doing 
Three Mile Island mods to the fire suppression systems.  It was short 
term while between other projects.  I worked on Constructions Budgets 
and Schedules but the contractor I worked for was not mentioned below.


LarryT


On 08/07/2018 11:58 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

UTILITIESScana accountant testifies she was made to lie about reactor
costsPublished:
Tuesday, August 7, 2018

A former accountant for Scana Corp. has testified that top executives at
the utility pressured her to lie to regulators about how much it would cost
to complete a S.C. nuclear project that was later abandoned.

Carlette Walker, who was responsible for spending oversight at the V.C.
Summer project, had to give sworn statements to state regulators on the
increased rates that subsidiary SCE&G was charging customers to fund the
two reactors.

Walker said she quit in June 2016 "because I wasn't going to lie," and
named a former chief executive, a former operations chief and former chief
financial officer when asked during the deposition who forced her to lie.

A voicemail left by Walker in early 2016 was also played for the circuit
court judge, who is overseeing the civil suit that seeks $2 billion in
compensation for utility customers — the amount they've paid to date for
the project.

In the voicemail, Walker is heard accusing Scana executives of "breaking
every friggin' law that you can break," and propping up the project to hit
profit targets and collect millions in bonuses (Tom Barton, Columbia [S.C.]
*State*
,
Aug. 3). *— DI*
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Re: [MBZ] W116 rear seat pads - sources

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I assume these guys exist - the shops doing resto-mods (or is it 
Resto-Rods?) on TV where they create new interiors or reproduce old ones 
from a photo or just a description - they're probably in S. Cal. but 
they must exist.  Tell them if you want Leather or MB Tex and turn them 
loose.  Of course those guys have sky high budgets so they may be a bit 
high...
Have you tried Potomac MBs in Md - it's a huge recycler of all kinds of 
MBs.  And Adsit has new and used...


Good luck -
Larry

On 08/04/2018 4:27 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

I'd say try a body shop that also does interior work, or a place that restores 
old cars, they probably know all the tricks.



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Re: [MBZ] Interesting Op-ed Piece

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I rec'd a email linking me to an article about a piece of legislation 
that would make it illegal to harm plants, with the intent being to give 
plants the same rights as Humans.  How dumb can people get?  Very!  
would be the correct answer.


LarryT


On 07/31/2018 12:51 AM, clay monroe via Mercedes wrote:

Global climate change

Faces on the food.  It has a face, so it can not be eaten or used for any 
product

Pleather shoes are all they can wear

clay

1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei
1982 300 SD - Allen

retired models-
2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








On Jul 30, 2018, at 9:22 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

you wrote the below.  What?

Larry


On 07/31/2018 12:14 AM, clay monroe via Mercedes wrote:

...GCC, because faces


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Re: [MBZ] 2007 E350 no start

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

    My 06 E350 (POS) has the same problem.  The Fuel Pump/s is bad as 
per my Indy.  I am going to take it to local dealer - they will tow it 
for free if I let them repair it.  I need some clarification on what the 
warranty covers. Their answer was a little vague so I need to speak to 
one of Service Advisors in hopes they are familiar with the warranty 
details.


    There was also a Class Action suit that forced MB to offer repairs 
of the E350 affected by the faulty cam sensors.   Not sure what the 
codes are but our problem began when it would not start. It cranks 
freely but will not fire.


    Let me know if you want to see the letter MB sent as a reply to my 
question...


LarryT


A friend has a 2007 E350 wagon M272 with 140k miles that won't fire, it
just cranks and cranks. I pulled codes and it shows P0011 cam timing, bank
1 position A (intake); P0271 Powertain, which google says is associated
with the first code; and P0521 Oil pressure switch.

I checked the cam solenoid magnet and it had the common failure mode of oil
leaking through the connector at the top, so I installed a new one from the
dealer this morning. Still no start.

Anyone familiar with these engines? I keep reading about balance shaft
problems, but I'm not sure if that will cause a no start like this.

The P0521 looks like it may actually be a stuck flap in the intake
manifold, but I'm not seeing any association with a no start. This is hard
without a manual or proper diagnostic equipment!

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Tom
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Re: [MBZ] Under 10K miles 1973 450SE but it has a cracked dash

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I don't think I've ever seen a  pre-W124 MB that _didn_'t have a cracked 
dash...


LarryT


On 08/01/2018 11:05 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

Wonder how high this will go.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1973-mercedes-benz-450se-4/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2018-08-01
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Re: [MBZ] Interesting Op-ed Piece

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

you wrote the below.  What?

Larry


On 07/31/2018 12:14 AM, clay monroe via Mercedes wrote:

...GCC, because faces



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Re: [MBZ] Interesting Op-ed Piece

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

if the price reaches the right tipping point the money will appear.   
The trick is knowing the price level will stay high enough to making it 
a lasting proposition.  ROI is still king...


But it sounds like China isn't letting energy hold it back. Recently 
they were commissioning a new coal fired powered plant _/Weekly/_! Maybe 
they still are?


Larry



On 07/31/2018 12:11 AM, clay monroe via Mercedes wrote:

There are trillions of cubic meters of NG just waiting for a way to get to the 
rest of the world in ANWR.  There was plan to make a tube to send it to LNG 
plant so it could be used by China.  Nobody had the funds to make the pipe.

clay

1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei
1982 300 SD - Allen

retired models-
2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








On Jul 30, 2018, at 4:41 AM, ROGER HALE via Mercedes  
wrote:

For many years I've thought that synthetic diesel would eventually be the 
answer.  Basically zero pollution, could use the methane from our landfills, 
Alaska tundra, coal mines, etc.  But the oil companies wouldn't have a monopoly 
on it so not much has been done there.  If you move the businesses out to the 
urban sprawl, then you recreate the working communities, but zoning departments 
don't have any guts about such things.  Just my .02.

Best Wishes,

Roger



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Re: [MBZ] Carburetor trouble

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

And I bet the problems return every 2-3 years/seasons?  Had a lengthy 
talk with our small engine specialist who said essentially what you 
said.  She said repairing needle/seats were a large part of their 
business now.    And they have a backlog of 2-3 weeks basically on a 
continuous basis.


That's why I only buy small equipment with electric power.

I guess the move to electric has been a little bit successful!  I have 
given up trying to start those silly gas engines like on weed whackers 
and similar - with electric I just pull the trigger. Course if I could 
get a diesel powered trimmer... ;-)


I found some stuff that is added to the gas tank and it's supposed to 
reverse the affects E10 has on engine components - but I don't drive 
enough anymore to buy it very often so I don't recall the name.  But in 
it's defense, I have never had any fuel system issues on the 911 that 
could be blamed on E10.

So maybe it's helping?

Larry

On 07/30/2018 11:22 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Over the past 2 years, I've had a number of small engines [and a couple of
car gas engines] with "ethanol induced failure" of the fuel system... in
each case, same problem set.

Here is what I've found. The ethanol fuel sucks water out of the air. The
water reacts with aluminum interiors of the carbs [it's raw aluminum with
no coating so it "aluminum rusts quickly"]

This "aluminum rust" clogs mixing orfices and sticks float valves, then the
fuel evaporates and forms varnish to glue it all in place... Harder than
snot to get soaked loose.

Clean it out, replace gaskets and float valves... blow out ALL passages
with carb cleaner, then compressed air.. reassemble it works.

Tried SeaFoam, and other "let it soak free" stuff none of it worked
like a tear down and hand clean EVERY PART...



On Mon, Jul 30, 2018 at 7:15 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


The ethanol probably destroyed the gaskets long ago.

Larry


On 07/30/2018 4:32 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


Yeah, but nobody seems to keep a rebuild kit in stock, so I'll have to
order one for delivery.  Thirty year old gaskets may not hold up to R&R.



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Re: [MBZ] ATM fees

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Sorry - a old email was hiding in my Mercedes folder.

Larry


On 07/30/2018 10:27 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
You'd think they'd cut someone a break when they carry a $2.6 million 
+ balance!


I seldom use an ATM and it's usually my banks machine so it's free.  
But if I were carrying a large balance I'd want free ATM banking - at 
least one free transaction/day.


IMO You should speak to someone in management - not just someone who 
answers the phone.  But that's just me...


Larry


On 10/25/2017 3:27 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
Anybody else noticed out of control atm fees lately? I will have to 
stop using them, just look at this fee. $4? Wow.





Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] ATM fees

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

You'd think they'd cut someone a break when they carry a $2.6 million + 
balance!


I seldom use an ATM and it's usually my banks machine so it's free.  But 
if I were carrying a large balance I'd want free ATM banking - at least 
one free transaction/day.


IMO You should speak to someone in management - not just someone who 
answers the phone.  But that's just me...


Larry


On 10/25/2017 3:27 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

Anybody else noticed out of control atm fees lately? I will have to stop using 
them, just look at this fee. $4? Wow.




Sent from my iPhone


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Re: [MBZ] Carburetor trouble

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

The ethanol probably destroyed the gaskets long ago.

Larry


On 07/30/2018 4:32 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Yeah, but nobody seems to keep a rebuild kit in stock, so I'll have to order one 
for delivery.  Thirty year old gaskets may not hold up to R&R.



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Re: [MBZ] Interesting Op-ed Piece

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I really think Mr Peters' comment that the diesel "cheating" was 
contrived to destroy the passenger diesel car industry in favor of the 
electric car "industry" (if it can be called that) is a valid theory.   
I wonder how long before government subsidies will kick in again to push 
electric vehicle ownership?   It was probably on Hillary's calendar.   ;-)


re: the roadside detection machines; I wonder if they detected any gas 
powered law breakers?


As far as Andrew's choice of a diesel; at least he's chosen to take the 
30% bump in fuel mileage that diesels have over gas powered cars.


Larry


On 07/30/2018 3:18 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

I like the logic, either the emissions tests and the roadside detection machines are 
worthless, or the "cheating" is manufactured to achieve a goal.

"Show me the man, and I'll show you the crime."  - Lavrentiy Beria, head of 
Joseph Stalin’s secret police.



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Re: [MBZ] Brake Drag

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

And it's such a simple job you'll  wonder why you didn't do it sooner.   
Don't bother with the fancy Stainless Steels hoses. They were intended 
for race cars which get inspections and replacements on a regular basis 
- monthly or even weekly depending on the severity of use.  They can 
also be difficult to seal properly.


The regular old OEM hoses will last 150,000 miles or more.

LarryT


On 07/29/2018 9:30 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

You need to replace the brake hoses. They are swollen shut internally

Sent from my iPhone


On Jul 29, 2018, at 7:42 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
wrote:

Yesterday I diagnosed a low MPG problem with an infrared thermometer.
When one front brake is 100 deg and the other is 160, you know where the 
problem is.

After installing a refurb caliper, I took it for a short drive without touching 
the brakes, ran it up to 70mph and then coasted to a stop on an uphill.
At 85 ambient, the rear drums were 87 and 89.
The front disks were 95 and 96. (the new caliper was the 95)

Is about 10 degrees over ambient about the best you can hope for from disk 
brakes, or is it possible to get the drag lower than that?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Peter wrote (...take it to someone...)
That sounds like a plan!
Larry

My first attempt ended up and a local machine shop, and they were afraid they 
would damage the steering knuckle it was so stuck, I never managed to get it to 
move at all.  That was on my 75 Audi Fox -- great car until the floor pan fell 
out from rust.

I would take the wheel carrier off and take it to someone to have the new 
bearing installed and the hub put in.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Sounds like I should leave it to a shop with a puller ;-)

Actually I am looking at the cost of the tools in case I am feeling 
especially energetic after I get all the preliminary stuff out of the 
way.  That's unlikely, but you never know...


Thanks,

Larry


On 07/29/2018 10:20 PM, tyee165 via Mercedes wrote:

Cutting a race with a cold chisel is dangerous. They are hard and will shatter.


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: Larry Turner via Mercedes 
 Date: 2018-07-29  7:20 PM  (GMT-06:00) To: 
mercedes@okiebenz.com Cc: Larry Turner  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 
W124 Rear Wheel Bearing
If I can separate the hub from the carrier, I can probably cut the race
with a chisel and get it off that way.  But I may have to let the shop
do it.  We'll see.  Thanks for helping me think it through.  I know
everyone must be getting tired of my endless questions.  ;-^

Larryl


On 07/29/2018 9:09 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, it's a double row ball bearing, one outer shell and two inner races.
The back inner race has to come off the hub flange when the wheel carrier is 
pressed out.
The front side inner race will probably stay on the hub flange.
I used a bearing separator and heat to get mine off.
Sorry, no pics of that.
I do have a pic of removing the hub flange with a slide hammer (takes a lot of 
hard hits with a BIG slide hammer).

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

If I can separate the hub from the carrier, I can probably cut the race 
with a chisel and get it off that way.  But I may have to let the shop 
do it.  We'll see.  Thanks for helping me think it through.  I know 
everyone must be getting tired of my endless questions.  ;-^


Larry


On 07/29/2018 9:09 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, it's a double row ball bearing, one outer shell and two inner races.
The back inner race has to come off the hub flange when the wheel carrier is 
pressed out.
The front side inner race will probably stay on the hub flange.
I used a bearing separator and heat to get mine off.
Sorry, no pics of that.
I do have a pic of removing the hub flange with a slide hammer (takes a lot of 
hard hits with a BIG slide hammer).

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

glad to see the slide hammer worked for you!  I've heard horror stories 
and the YouTube videos show two big guys taking turns on the slide.


I think I'll end up letting my shop do the work.

Thanks -

Larry



On 07/29/2018 9:09 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Yes, it's a double row ball bearing, one outer shell and two inner races.
The back inner race has to come off the hub flange when the wheel carrier is 
pressed out.
The front side inner race will probably stay on the hub flange.
I used a bearing separator and heat to get mine off.
Sorry, no pics of that.
I do have a pic of removing the hub flange with a slide hammer (takes a lot of 
hard hits with a BIG slide hammer).

Mitch.


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Re: [MBZ] Interesting Op-ed Piece

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I'm not sure I trust the regulators who are coming up with the ever more 
stringent requirements for emissions released.  Who are the regulators?  
What are they trying to achieve?  If they are working toward Zero 
Emissions I suspect we are being treated like the proverbial frog being 
put into hot and eventually boiling water (who ever tested that theory 
hmmm..)  and the Powers That Be at the EPA dictated diesels be 
eliminated.  One of Mr Peters other articles about the way VW was 
treated tells a twisted story of the VW prosecution, i.e., no one was 
shown to have been harmed (many court cases are dismissed when no harm 
can be shown), no roadside testers recorded high emissions, but perhaps 
worst of all, VW defend their actions to the public.  They just let the 
govt beat them up and fine them an incredible amount of money.  (True VW 
did something wrong, but if they had explained what a tiny amount of NoX 
they are going after many of the public would understand - not all of us 
thinks corporations are evil). BTW, the states mentioned are using their 
portion of the windfall to build the electric car infrastructure.  In 
seems the govt has decided (for all of us) that electric cars are good 
and diesels are bad.  Time to disband the EPA.  Now I know I'm going to 
drive my 300D til I'm in my grave - then hopefully my kids will drive it.


One thing not mentioned is with all the new diesel sales effectively 
cancelled, how long with fuel stations keep providing fuel for our cars?


If you read the article in the initial post, I suggest you also read 
some of the related articles linked in the 1st article.


To Peters final comment - I'm not sure "a few trillion" would take us 
back to the 50's in terms of lifestyle.


Larry


On 07/29/2018 3:32 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Actually, it was a research group at a University testing new sniffer equipment (that 
will fit in a car, so you can test while driving, unlike the old equipment which is 
pretty big) who found the "up to forty times" the level of NOx.  Still very low 
numbers compared to old diesels.

The real issue is the soot, and even clean diesels produce some.  Old diesels 
produce prodigious quantities -- at a guess each shift on and old Mac farm semi 
is the equivalent of a month or two from my Golf.  NOx is bad too, and the 
actual regulations are what kills diesels, I'm not really sure it's possible to 
make a reliable diesel that meets the requirements and is drivable.

I don't think electric is the answer, either -- just like ethanol, it's just 
displaced carbon emissions from the car to the fuel maker.  Burning coal to 
make ethanol (or natural gas, better but not carbon free) or to charge a 
battery makes the vehicle carbon free or at least reduces the footprint, but at 
the cost of increased carbon emissions somewhere else.

The real solution is to stop driving so much, but that requires undoing 60 
years of suburban sprawl and a return to integrated communities with mass 
transit to centralized business and manufacturing.  Got a few trillion dollars 
a year to spare?
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Have a question about the Hub (the part with the holes for lug bolts) -- 
is there a race pressed onto the axle side of the hub?


Thanks


On 07/28/2018 11:21 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

A bit of light oil on the axle splines (or some neverseize), else everything it 
dry.
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Peter,

    Glad you are seeing real progress with your ankle!  You are 100% 
right about keeping the joint flexible, there's nothing like a natural 
kind of exercise like walking and swimming.  Then it's not so much of a 
chore.


    I need to get a membership at my local Y (I keep saying that but 
not following through) so I will have access to a pool  Of course I need 
to work on the logistics of getting from the car into the water, and 
getting back out again when I'm done.  Having a leg that's 3" shorter 
means it's hard to walk without my elevated shoe - and pools seem to 
discourage people wearing shoes in the pool. ;-)


Larry






On 07/28/2018 11:19 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Yeah, stairs really suck when your foot won't bend far enough.  The bounce is 
irritating and it's uncomfortable.  I can force it to normal ROM, so it's 
really just a matter of working on it.

Rough ground helps a lot, as it flexes my ankle under pressure.  It hurts, but 
the more I use it the better.

Even all the standing at a funeral today didn't cause it to swell, maybe I'll 
get back to somewhat normal soon!

I'm hoping to get the axle into the VW tomorrow night or Monday -- then it's on 
to the temp sensor and thermostat, it takes four miles to get up to operating 
temp in 90 degree weather

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

BTW, I assume no lubrication is needed except to put thin films on metal 
surfaces to easy assembly & to lube threads?


Thanks,

LarryT


On 07/28/2018 7:35 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
Larry and Peter:  SOSDP  SOS, you know the meaning.  DP= Different 
people or different Place; Your choice.


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
I think you are right - he needs his meds!  I worked as a contract 
employee for 11 years after I was promised I would go direct when the 
census "opened up",  yeah, right, when it opened up my POS boss 
supported the hiring of a outsider who had political backing.  I was 
never the same after that.   "Bad Management" sums it up nicely.  
They brought new people in the VP level and they brought all of their 
people with them and on and on - making a lot of enemies and upset 
workers. But it's typical everywhere IMO.  Unfortunately.  You're 
right, there are few ways to change things --


I came down with the nerve disease a few years after all that and 
went out on disability.  I applied to Soc Sec shortly after and it 
went thru without any problems.   So I was lucky there.


I did a search for 30mm impact sockets/1/2 drive and there are many 
for less that $20.  There seems to be plenty out there.  I don't need 
a super high quality socket since I likely won't use it very much, 
but I don't want one that will break.  Luckily I have both air and 
electric impact wrenches and I'm pretty sure either will break the 
200-240nM loose.  My next door neighbor passed away a few years ago 
and before he died he gave me his lifetime collection of tools - at 
least the ones his sons didn't want. Fortunately, they weren't big on 
working w/their hands so I got lucky.  got a big collection of drills 
& taps.


Glad your R.O.M is improving, that's really important.  I had my knee 
up to 117 deg flexion but when I got the clot and stopped exercising 
I lost much of it.  The better the ROM the better the daily life is - 
even little things like getting in/out of a car.


Take care --

Larry


On 07/28/2018 8:46 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:
Thanks for the thoughts Larry.  Work sucks, I'm not sure what to do 
about it as the Resourse Leader appears to be off his meds -- I'm 
looking fo rsomething else, need health insurance for 2 1/2 more 
years.  What can you say about someone who tell obvious lies that 
are provably false and goes into a rage when you prove him wrong?   
Root cause is bad management, as most of these situations are, and I 
don't see any way to fix it short of leaving the job after 18 
years.  Being a contract employee from an outside company doesn't 
help any.


I broke the fibula (the other calf bone) about two inches below the 
knee, so I'm OK as far as the knee goes.  Full range of motion is 
slowly returning, and for the first time since Dec 29th 2016, I 
didn't have significant swelling in my leg yesterday.


I will check on the socket, I'm in the same boat with my Golf, it 
needs a new axle, which I have, but it's also a 12 pt nut. My 
brother has something that worked on the Benz when I did an unneeded 
wheel bearing replacement at couple years ago, I'll see what it is 
and if it's a 12 pt where to get it.




Peter
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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I think you are right - he needs his meds!  I worked as a contract 
employee for 11 years after I was promised I would go direct when the 
census "opened up",  yeah, right, when it opened up my POS boss 
supported the hiring of a outsider who had political backing.  I was 
never the same after that.   "Bad Management" sums it up nicely.  They 
brought new people in the VP level and they brought all of their people 
with them and on and on - making a lot of enemies and upset workers. But 
it's typical everywhere IMO.  Unfortunately.  You're right, there are 
few ways to change things --


I came down with the nerve disease a few years after all that and went 
out on disability.  I applied to Soc Sec shortly after and it went thru 
without any problems.   So I was lucky there.


I did a search for 30mm impact sockets/1/2 drive and there are many for 
less that $20.  There seems to be plenty out there.  I don't need a 
super high quality socket since I likely won't use it very much, but I 
don't want one that will break.  Luckily I have both air and electric 
impact wrenches and I'm pretty sure either will break the 200-240nM 
loose.  My next door neighbor passed away a few years ago and before he 
died he gave me his lifetime collection of tools - at least the ones his 
sons didn't want. Fortunately, they weren't big on working w/their hands 
so I got lucky.  got a big collection of drills & taps.


Glad your R.O.M is improving, that's really important.  I had my knee up 
to 117 deg flexion but when I got the clot and stopped exercising I lost 
much of it.  The better the ROM the better the daily life is - even 
little things like getting in/out of a car.


Take care --

Larry


On 07/28/2018 8:46 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Thanks for the thoughts Larry.  Work sucks, I'm not sure what to do about it as 
the Resourse Leader appears to be off his meds -- I'm looking fo rsomething 
else, need health insurance for 2 1/2 more years.  What can you say about 
someone who tell obvious lies that are provably false and goes into a rage when 
you prove him wrong?   Root cause is bad management, as most of these 
situations are, and I don't see any way to fix it short of leaving the job 
after 18 years.  Being a contract employee from an outside company doesn't help 
any.

I broke the fibula (the other calf bone) about two inches below the knee, so 
I'm OK as far as the knee goes.  Full range of motion is slowly returning, and 
for the first time since Dec 29th 2016, I didn't have significant swelling in 
my leg yesterday.

I will check on the socket, I'm in the same boat with my Golf, it needs a new 
axle, which I have, but it's also a 12 pt nut.  My brother has something that 
worked on the Benz when I did an unneeded wheel bearing replacement at couple 
years ago, I'll see what it is and if it's a 12 pt where to get it.




Peter
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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Sounds like FAG is one to add to the 'good' list...

Thanks for the info -

LarryT


On 07/27/2018 11:14 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Fri, 27 Jul 2018 19:33:51 -0700 Jim Cathey via Mercedes
 wrote:


Have never heard of FAG, or most others.


It's short for Fischer's Automatische Gussstahlkugelfabrik,
obviously.  :-) Trademarked since 1905.

Fischer was first to invent a machine for making high-quality steel
spheres in volume, in 1883.


http://www.reliablebearing.com/history.htm

History and Development


An early type of linear bearing was an arrangement of tree trunks laid
down under sleds. This technology may date as far back as the
construction of the Pyramids of Giza, though there is no definitive
evidence. Modern linear bearings use a similar principle, sometimes with
balls in place of rollers.

The first plain and rolling-element bearings were wood, but ceramic,
sapphire or glass can be used, and steel, bronze, other metals, and
plastic (e.g., nylon, polyoxymethylene, teflon, and UHMWPE) are all
common today. Indeed, stone was even used in various forms. Think of the
"jewelled pocket watch", which incorporated stones to reduce frictional
loads, and allow a smoother running watch. Of course, with older,
mechanical timepieces, the smoother the operating properties, then the
higher the accuracy and value. Wood can still be seen today in old water
mills, and the water itself had a part to play in the cooling/lubrication
implications, of such natural and commonly found, bearing resources.

John Harrison. Click to read more. Rotary bearings are required for many
applications, from heavy-duty use in vehicle axles and machine shafts, to
precision clock parts. The simplest rotary bearing is the sleeve bearing,
which is just a cylinder inserted between the wheel and its axle. This
was followed by the roller bearing, in which the sleeve was replaced by a
number of cylindrical rollers. Each roller behaves as an individual
wheel.The first practical caged-roller bearing was invented by horologist
John Harrison in his H3 chronometer of 1760.

An early example of a wooden ball bearing, supporting a rotating table,
was retrieved from the remains of a Roman ship in Lake Nemi, Italy. The
wreck was dated to 40 BC. Leonardo da Vinci is said to have described a
type of ball bearing around the year 1500. One of the issues with ball
bearings is that they can rub against each other, causing additional
friction, but this can be prevented by enclosing the balls in a cage. The
captured, or caged, ball bearing was originally described by Galileo in
the 1600s. The mounting of bearings into a set was not accomplished for
many years after that. The first patent for a ball race was by Philip
Vaughan of Carmarthen in 1794.

Friedrich Fischer`s idea from the year 1883 for milling and grinding
balls of equal size and exact roundness by means of a suitable production
machine formed the foundation for creation of an independent bearing
industry.

The initials of the names "Fischers Automatische Gußstahlkugelfabrik" or
"Fischer Aktien-Gesellschaft" became a logo which was registered on 29
July, 1905. In 1962 it got the look it still has today, and it finally
became an integral part of the company in 1979.

The modern, self-aligning design of ball bearing is attributed to Sven
Wingquist of the SKF ball-bearing manufacturer in 1907.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter,

Hmm... your experience at work sounds like my wife  the year before she 
retired - people changed and the new ones knew it all as in your case.  
Her new boss didn't want to get rid of her he just didn't have a clue!  
She started to hate getting up in the morning & going to work.  I 
finally told her to retire all ready and we'd be ok financially.  It's 
sad how things have become so similar all over.


Glad to hear your ankle is getting better!    You wrote "broke the small 
bone up near the knee," - I hope it wasn't one of the bones that make up 
the "crown" on the top of the tibia that keeps the knee centered on the 
tibia?  That's where my trouble started. Of course it doesn't sound like 
you are allergic to the bone cement so it will continue to go smoothly!


I hope your recovery continues without any hiccup (I'll add you to 
my list of people I pray for) ;-)


re: the RWB - I need to get a 30mm impart socket but most I see ate 6 pt 
and the nut is 12 pt.  I know the 12 pt will fit the 6pt but I'm not 
sure about vice versa.  Any idea?


Larry



On 07/27/2018 11:12 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Larry:

The ankle is OK, but still gives me fits once in a while.  Been a year and a 
half now, and I've been told that's pretty normal.  Some arthritis in it, 
probably there before I broke it.  Stepped on a log in the drive taking the 
trash out from the garage at night -- I knew they were there, planning on 
cutting them up for cedar linings, but had a car parked and decided to take the 
short way to the road.  Big mistake.

I broke the corner off the tibia, and broke the small bone up near the knee, 
and dislocated my foot pretty well, had to have two sets of screws to hold the 
bones together for the tendons to heal.  Naturally, I broke one of the screws 
when I started walking on it 7 weeks later, and had to have that one dug out 
from the other side in the second surgery.

Not fun at all.  However, even with all the nuttiness at work, today was pretty 
good -- no significant swelling of that foot for the first time in a year and a 
half.  The pain moves around, didn't know that there were so many things in an 
ankle that could hurt that bad.

Getting old is definitely not for the weak of heart!  I've got four more years 
to SS age, and it can't get here soon enough.  I'm fed up with the shenanigans 
at work (new lab techs, half of whom think they know everything and I'm stupid, 
again) and a sort of boss who is trying to get rid of me because I've proved 
him wrong a couple times -- don't you just love insecure people?

Looking for another job, this one is about over for me, I'm not sure I can face 
another round of persuading fairly dense people I know what I'm doing.

Come on 2022!

Peter



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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter,

    I hope you ankle is better now?  You must have had to stay off it 
for quite a while?  I have a friend who is very heavy - like around 
400#'s or so and he put his foot down at an angle and it fractured.   He 
won't stick to his diet, and is diabetic and in a wheel chair for now 
on. I suspect he'll never walk again.  Nice guy but no self control.


    A couple of other things.  I have a nerve disease like Wilton.  It 
caused me to get blisters on my toes because of an external numbness.  
After a year and a half trying to get the blisters to heal they were 
infected and much of the bone had osteomyelitis which is like rust in 
bones, so they came off.   So I know all about phantom pain.  I think it 
is worse than the original pain but I really didn't have any options.   
I've tried all kinds of things and nothing really works for nerve pain. 
Lyrica is the only thing that takes the edge off.  I went so far that I 
had a pump implanted in an attempt to control it but over the last year 
I've been reducing it a little at a time because it's just not 
effective.  Plus there's unpleasant side affects associated with any 
med.  Especially narcotics.


    After I was told about the allergy, I learned they only have 1 
cement approved by who ever approves them.  So we had to go with a press 
fit.  Hopefully is remains stable for a long time.


    Like they say, getting old ain't for sissies.

    Well, enough about that depressing stuff - how about we talk about 
cheerful stuff like the plague or something? ;-)


    BTW, Found a bearing set at Autohaus az for $57 but it's a FAG...  
RockAuto is starting to look pretty good.  Also, you mentioned putting 
heat on the bolts to break them loose - I hope a propane will produce 
enough heat?


Larry


On 07/27/2018 6:39 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Yikes, what a mess.  Being allergic to the bone cement would be a very bad 
thing.

I would want to keep your leg, although we have a friend who has the fake femur 
(due to extensive radiation for  soft tissue sarcoma followed by a bad break 
that would not heal), so it's possible.  Not a lot of fun, but better than not 
being able to walk.  Prosthetics are another whole ball of wax you don't want 
to have to deal with, I think.

And I've heard that phantom pain after the amputation can be pretty bad, too, 
with no more cure than what you have now, it's from the severed nerves.

Hope it gets better, I hated being unable to do much while I was recovering 
from my broken ankle last year.





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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Mitch!   I'll probably go with the Timken, National or SKF.  No 
need to cheap out.  Course I don't want to go with OEM MB which is 
probably triple the cost of Timken or SKF.


TIA -

Larry



On 07/27/2018 3:41 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

I just took a look at Rock Auto.
HooFlungDung are under $25, one of them is $13.
Timken and National are $54.
SKF are $85.

Mitch.


On July 27, 2018 at 3:30 PM Karl Wittnebel via Mercedes  
wrote:


Seems like any bearing on that list would be indistinguishable from the
others in terms of real world performance.

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Re: [MBZ] W124 Rear Wheel Bearing

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Original Message:

What happened?  Did you break your arm trying to get some money out of 
your wallet?


--R


True, while I am known far and wide as being cheap, this time my arm was 
OK as I didn't even try to reach for my wallet.  Actually I prefer the 
word Frugal.


My immobility came from a fall (I think) about 10 years ago that damaged 
the bones near the top of my tibia.  It's called a Tibial Plateau 
Fracture.  It is a small crack & was very hard to see.  We needed a Cat 
Scan to find it.  I never did see a cat. Since we thought it might be 
arthritis, I kept walking until the Cat scan showed the fracture.  By 
then I had been walking on it (hobbling) for about 3 weeks which 
destroyed the knee.  Then the seemingly never ending string of knee 
replacements started.  Have had 4 total knee replacements and 1 where a 
antibiotic stint was put in place for about 6 weeks while testing was 
being done.  They tested for infection and allergies.  Turned out I am 
allergic to the bone cement they use, no infection.  That was given as 
the cause for the 1st 2 knee failures.  #3 I was not told why it failed 
and I still have #4.    About a week after #4 was put in (June 2017) 
x-rays showed the prosthetic had slipped upward into my Femur so I was 
told to delay PT and stay off my feet for 6-8 weeks.  It looks like the 
Prosthetic has stabilized and stopped moving.  If that had continued, 
one option was to replace my hip, put a rod between the hip and knee and 
keep my lower leg.  I hate the idea of removing a perfectly good hip so 
thankfully that option if off the table for now.


Had a blood clot in March 18 and a weak staf infection in that knee.  
Hopefully the antibiotics will cure the infection otherwise I'll likely 
lose my leg.


And that, my friends, is how I came to be disabled.  I have recently 
been thinking I might be better off if they removed my leg above the 
knee.   At least the pain would stop and I could be more mobile than I 
am now (I think).  But I'm sure there are plenty of unintended 
consequences in something like that...


Anyone have experience with amputation who might share the problems it 
caused?


LarryT


On 07/04/2018 9:42 AM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

What happened?  Did you break your arm trying to get some money out of your 
wallet?

--R
Sent from iPhone


On Jul 4, 2018, at 9:23 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Hi Gang!  (I'm bck!)

I am a little more mobile now having moved from a wheel chair to a walker and 
some standing without the walker.  Don't think I'll be getting on the ground to 
work on the car (with hopes of getting up again).

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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Ya'll,

When I get to the point when I'm ready to buy a replacement bearing kit, 
which  brand is the highest quality? I've seen FAG, Aftermarket (there's 
a creative name), and others.  Have never heard of FAG, or most others.


TIA!

LarryT


On 07/26/2018 8:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

On July 26, 2018 at 8:33 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
 wrote:


The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a 
pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer).

The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the 
wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up.  No 
need to loosen the other end unless the rubber is shot.

For some reason I was thinking it was similar to the W163, which didn't involve 
any rubber bushed joints to remove the axle. Oops.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Peter


On 07/26/2018 8:48 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

On July 26, 2018 at 8:33 PM Peter Frederick via Mercedes 
 wrote:


The tie rod has a standard tie rod end that you will need to pop loose with a 
pickle fork or a lever type tool (which I prefer).

The other links unbolt, but the rubber is part of the spring action and the 
wheel carrier must be at ride height when you tighten the bolts back up.  No 
need to loosen the other end unless the rubber is shot.

For some reason I was thinking it was similar to the W163, which didn't involve 
any rubber bushed joints to remove the axle. Oops.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Craig!


On 07/25/2018 8:49 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Wed, 25 Jul 2018 14:50:18 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:


Hi All,

I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light
between the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling
fuses 1 by 1. Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!

You are welcome.



I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual
parts of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the vanity
light may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and disable the
vanity light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the bulb...

Yes, put the fuse back in and disconnect from their power source the
various accessories powered by that fuse. When you reach the correct
(i.e., bad) accessory, the light will go out -- unless two of the
accessories on the fuse have failed at the same time. Then you would
expect to see a change in the brilliance of the test light.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Mitch -

I'll have my suspension shop check the alignment and also check the 
torque on the fasteners...


Sincerely,

Larry


On 07/25/2018 10:56 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Removing the wheel carrier should involve some ball joints, a brake caliper and 
a parking brake cable. Suspension position shouldn't matter when tightening 
ball joint stud nuts.

If you loosen any bolts in control arm bushings, those should be tightened with 
the car parked on a level surface, or you'll be twisting the bushings when the 
car's just sitting there and they won't last long.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Randy!  That sounds perfectly logical.  I'll give it a try.  ;-)

Sincerely,

Larry


On 07/25/2018 5:19 PM, Randy Bennell via Mercedes wrote:

On 25/07/2018 1:50 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

Hi All,

I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light 
between the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling 
fuses 1 by 1. Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!


I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual 
parts of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the 
vanity light may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and 
disable the vanity light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the 
bulb...


Thanks,

Larry


___ 


I am no expert but since it does not look like you have had any 
response as yet, I will give you my thoughts.

You likely cannot use the test light to test the components.
I would try using a meter. For example, if you suspect the vanity 
light, pull the fuse for it and then test the feed to the vanity 
mirror light for continuity to ground. You probably need to pull the 
bulb too. If you get continuity between the hot side of the bulb 
socket and ground, then you have a short to ground.


RB who suspects someone who knows much more about this sort of thing 
may have a better idea


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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Curley,

That's really good to know!  Thanks for that!

Now my plans can start to come together.   I'm probably worrying too 
much about this, but the thought of wailing away on the axle shaft to 
pop it loose bothers me.  it'll probably go easy and even if the 
cir-clip is damaged I can use a new one.   Hopefully the bolted 
connections come loose easy...


Once I see what the bearing looks like I should know if I can re-use the 
carrier.   Hopefully the shop I plan to r&r the bearings will have few 
problems.  but even if they do there seems to be lots of used ones 
around if the present one needs to be replaced.


The Pelican procedure suggest using new fasteners and compression 
sleeves.  I understand the sleeves but if the bolts/nuts aren't damaged 
shouldn't they be ok to re-use?


Lastly, all the procedures I've read all say to have the weight of the 
car on the tires before final tightening the bolts.  Do all fasteners 
need to wait for this?  But I guess I could drive it to the shop to have 
that done?  Don't see me crawling under to do the final torquing..


TIA!

Larry.


On 07/25/2018 7:00 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:
I suspect that it will be fine.  When the rear subframe mounts get 
dead rubber, you will know it.  The car get squirrelly going over RR 
tracks, but is normal most of the time.  Until it gets squirrelly 
going over tracks, I'd not worry about it, and even thern you probably 
have 1-5 years before you need to worry. Drive it.


Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
Got a question regarding my rusted connection over the rear 
suspension:  I'm thinking that if I go through with replacing the 
wheel bearing carrier, maybe I can just ignore the rusty connection 
and drive?  After all, very few similar problems have been found but 
granted it's not a problem to get noticed unless the shop uses a 
prybar to pry between the connection.   Otherwise it's like rust in 
most other cases, it just does its thing.  I haven't heard of any 
sounds or strange handling characteristics when these connections get 
rusty and as long as we don't race around corners we'll probably 
forget the problem is there.  Also, hopefully I can eventually either 
weld a sandwich of metal above and below the rusted area and re--bolt 
the connection or find a shop to do it if my health never improves to 
allow me to get under the car again.


Am I being dangerous in my thoughts?  I think I freaked out when the 
shop told me the connection between the rear susp and chassis was 
rusted.  Plus I like everything to work as it should


Thanks Guys,

LarryT



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi All,

I have pretty much locked in the procedure of using a Test Light between 
the Neg Cable and Neg Post as I look for shorts by pulling fuses 1 by 1. 
Thanks for teaching me that new  skill!


I was hoping I could use the same procedure to find the individual parts 
of components to pinpoint the problem?   For instance, the vanity light 
may be the culprit - can I put the fuse back in and disable the vanity 
light?  Hopefully I can unplug it or just pull the bulb...


Thanks,

Larry


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Re: [MBZ] 108 280S sold

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Ha!  My first MB was a '69 280S - we put a lot of miles on it but I 
struggled with the dual carbs, window mechanisms and the rockers were 
getting pretty rusty.  I replaced both rockers but the front fenders 
needed work.  I rebuilt the engine and it ran great! but it's days were 
numbered and I finally traded it for a bunch of parts for my 1st diesel 
(78 240D).


Never dreamed a 280S would bring such a high bid - but I bet that 
restoration cost a Bunch!


Love those 108s though - my favorite was a '72 280SE 4.5 we had for 
several years. What an awesome engine that was!  So much power - it 
would chirp the tires under full accel when it shifted from 2-3 (at 
least I think it was the 2-3 shift) that occurred at 45mph


Larry


On 07/25/2018 11:25 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

oops - wrong car.

Jaime's car is still being auctioned.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1968-mercedes-benz-250s-4/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2018-07-25

On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 10:39 AM, Andrew Strasfogel 
wrote:


I was a little light in my estimate, others heavy.

https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1969-mercedes-benz-
280sel/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2018-07-19


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Re: [MBZ] One For Dan P

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Sounds like my Ford Explorer...

LarryT


On 07/25/2018 11:36 AM, Curt Raymond via Mercedes wrote:

Underpowered and thirsty but by the end of the run rugged and reliable...

Curt

Sent from Yahoo Mail on Android
  
   On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 8:41 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:   It is still a POS.  Rumor of not, it doesn't matter.  A POS is a POS.


Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

The 5.7 was built from the ground up as a diesel, it was never a converted gas 
engine. This is a rumor.




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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Got a question regarding my rusted connection over the rear suspension:  
I'm thinking that if I go through with replacing the wheel bearing 
carrier, maybe I can just ignore the rusty connection and drive?  After 
all, very few similar problems have been found but granted it's not a 
problem to get noticed unless the shop uses a prybar to pry between the 
connection.   Otherwise it's like rust in most other cases, it just does 
its thing.  I haven't heard of any sounds or strange handling 
characteristics when these connections get rusty and as long as we don't 
race around corners we'll probably forget the problem is there.  Also, 
hopefully I can eventually either weld a sandwich of metal above and 
below the rusted area and re--bolt the connection or find a shop to do 
it if my health never improves to allow me to get under the car again.


Am I being dangerous in my thoughts?  I think I freaked out when the 
shop told me the connection between the rear susp and chassis was 
rusted.  Plus I like everything to work as it should


Thanks Guys,

LarryT


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Re: [MBZ] OT - pickup un-loader

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

our subdivision has homes with shallow depressions running along the 
road with culverts under the driveways - for storm runoff - common 
practice when something in the back of a pickup needs unloading is to 
backup so the open tailgate touches the side of the depression where it 
starts going uphill toward the house. Most of the time it's a smooth 
transition from truck to lawn. Had my lawn tractor delivered that way ;-)


Larry


On 07/24/2018 8:29 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

Seriously, there are a few ways to get a drum off a truck (or  onto it)

Lay the drum down and roll it off a plank that bridges the tailgate to 
the ground

use a barrel sling and a hoist
put it on a pallet and use a forklift
Get four big dumb swedes to pick it up.
Use, or build, a loading dock.
Use or build a set of 1 or more steps to take it down a few inches at 
a time.  Stack 2 or 3 pallets and end over end it onto the pallets, 
then onto the ground (or vice versa)



Having grown up with wood barrels and steel drums, I have used all 
sorts of methods to  move em.


Yesterday I loaded and unloaded a 165 lb propane tank.  That is easier 
than a 30 gal. barrel/drum.

Just about anyone can handle a 30 gal barrel once they know how to do it.
A 55 gallon takes a real man to lay it over or stand it up without 
damage.


tyee165 via Mercedes wrote:

How do you get it off of the tailgate?




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Re: [MBZ] OT interesting read/vids

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

The decision to sink the barge in the middle of the lake (at the deepest 
point) was tough on the team as they knew the barge would doom the 20-30 
innocent civilians traveling on it that night. keeping the nuclear bomb 
away from Hitler should have earned that team a Nobel Prize (or 
something), IMO.


The damage he would have done is hard to imagine.  But I understand 
later the intelligent teams determined hitler was not as close to 
developing the Bomb as they had once thought.  seems he was at least 5 
years behind the US. IIRC.


Larry


On 07/24/2018 11:58 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

Th*ere was also a documentary I saw about the destruction of the Norsk
Hydro heavy water plant that was contributing to an atomic program the
Nazis had*.

Also a fine feature film starring Kirk Douglas titled "The Heroes of
Telemark".  I spent a summer in Telemark doing geological mapping.  The
owner of the local hotel was a leader of the team that sank the barge
transporting the heavy water.  He was a local and national hero for Norway.

On Tue, Jul 24, 2018 at 11:30 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


My daughter got me a book called "The Ministry of Ungentlemanly Warfare".
https://www.amazon.com/Ministry-Ungentlemanly-Warfare-
Churchills-Warriors/dp/1681443929. about the guerillas and saboteurs that
the Brits had in WW2, and the story of how they came to be and the missions
they accomplished.  It is a delightful read, very engaging, I'm sure many
of you would really enjoy it.

Netflix also has a short series on modern day folks going through similar
training as to what these guys did back then, it is a bit contrived but
somewhat diverting. https://www.netflix.com/title/80195811

There was also a documentary I saw about the destruction of the Norsk
Hydro heavy water plant that was contributing to an atomic program the
Nazis had.


  The Heavy Water War | Netflix
  

i think it might be deleted now

--
--FT

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Re: [MBZ] One For Dan P

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Agree wholeheartedly!  I had a 78 Malibu w/a smallish V8 - the engine 
(not the transmission) ran great but all the other bits of the car had 
been "cheaped to death" as you described, I especially disliked the 
fasteners - mostly flat sheet metal w/a little hole and a twisted piece 
of metal in the hole to grab the bolt (barely).  they always seemed too 
strip way to easily.


That car was a good car, but without the cheapy-ness it would have been 
much better.  I'm sure there were more things I disliked but it's been 
30+ years..  ;-)


LarryT


On 07/24/2018 9:08 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Another GM idea cheaped to death



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Re: [MBZ] OT - pickup un-loader

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Looks like my memory of flight training, (geez, has it been 40 years 
already?), is the fuzzy part -  time really does fly.  You are 100% 
correct - bravo to your memory! Not fuzzy at all...


LarryT



On 07/23/2018 11:25 PM, Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes wrote:

I think water is 8 fuel is 6 but my recollection might be fuzzy

--FT
Sent from iPhone


On Jul 23, 2018, at 9:57 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

I seem to recall my flight instructor saying I should use 8#s/gal to estimate 
the weight of fuel for load distribution calcs. So 8x55=440 which is way under 
the 2000# limit.  but i think plywood under the drum to distribute the weight 
can't hurt ---

Am I missing something?

Larry

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Re: [MBZ] OT - pickup un-loader

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I seem to recall my flight instructor saying I should use 8#s/gal to 
estimate the weight of fuel for load distribution calcs. So 8x55=440 
which is way under the 2000# limit.  but i think plywood under the drum 
to distribute the weight can't hurt ---


Am I missing something?

Larry


On 07/23/2018 9:21 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

I use the barrel to haul 87 octane un-leaded (no ethanol) to the airplane -
use a hand crank pump to get it from the barrel to the wing tanks of the
Cessna. The low compression Continental can't tell the difference between
mogas and avgas, and it's half the price or less.

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 8:10 PM, G Mann via Mercedes 
wrote:


Back up and slam the brakes on really fast. self unloads ;))

As it happens, I presently have a barrel full of Jet A fuel in one of my
trucks, loaded as far forward as it will fit. When I unload it, it will be
with a 12 Volt Harbor Freight pump, into another barrel setting on a barrel
cart, at ground level...

Total time to pump 55 gal of Jet A [schedule 52 Diesel] is about 20 minutes
using 1/2 inch clear hose with PVC pipe on each end to stick down in the
barrel... To date, I've pumped about 1,200 gallons of generator fuel using
that same system.



On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 5:53 PM, tyee165 via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com

wrote:
How do you get it off of the tailgate?


Sent from my Galaxy Tab® A
 Original message From: G Mann via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> Date: 2018-07-23  7:37 PM  (GMT-06:00) To:
Mercedes Discussion List  Cc: G Mann <
g2ma...@gmail.com> Subject: Re: [MBZ] OT - pickup un-loader
I believe a full 55 gal barrel might exceed it's structural limits, but
only because the rim of the barrel would be the only contact area vs the
weight load.
It might work if you set the barrel on a piece of plywood to distribute

the

load beyond the rim of the barrel.

With a load of dirt or rock, the weight is distributed across a much

wider

area [although perhaps the same weight] against the "tarp" which slides
across the bed of the truck as you wind the handle.

I've used one for landscape rock... worked really well.

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 5:17 PM, OK Don via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com>
wrote:


Has anyone seen one of these in action?

https://www.harborfreight.com/truck-bed-cargo-unloader-60800.html

Would it work to slide a full 55 gal. barrel from the rear of the bed

onto

the tailgate?


--
OK Don

*“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry and narrow-mindedness, and many

of

our people need it sorely on these accounts.”* – Mark Twain

"There are three kinds of men: The ones that learns by reading. The few

who

learn by observation. The rest of them have to pee on the electric

fence

for themselves."

WILL ROGERS, *The Manly Wisdom of Will Rogers*
2013 F150, 18 mpg
2017 Subaru Legacy, 30 mpg
1957 C182A, 12 mpg - but at 150 mph!
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Re: [MBZ] One For Dan P

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

including the consumers IMO


On 07/23/2018 8:09 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

It was the principle of the matter - someone lied, all will be punished.

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 6:41 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Was the change that big or just the fact VW management deceived them?  I
seem to recall the actual MPG increase was pretty small.   Less that 1/2
mile per gallon IIRC.

Of course Chevrolet got the ball rolling with their modification of gas
engine to diesel.  A lot of broken cranks left a lot of GM owners feeling
pretty bad.  And repairing a engine with a damaged crank is a LOT more
costly than a few tenths MPG IMNSHO of course.

LarryT



On 07/23/2018 6:56 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:


I think the VW dieselgate killed Diesels in the US - perhaps permanently.

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 4:23 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:



Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:

BTW,  When did MB stop importing any diesel equipped cars into the US?  I

assume they're still being made and sold in other markets...

LarryT

For instance:  In Ireland, the majority of cars are Dissel.   RTW gets


dissels.   The goofy CARB and Feds keep them out here.


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[MBZ] 91 300D Rear Axle disconnect- more evidence

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang,

I found this on Pelican

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/body-repair/388675-w-124-rear-subframe-mount-rot.html#post3831265


so there's at least 2 other people (worldwide) who have problems like my 
300D.  At least I think we're all talking about the same thing.   anyone 
on the list have a problem like this?  I was probably vague in my 
description initially...


LarryT

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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Mitch,

    I went back and checked my notes to confirm my findings and it was 
Fuse C that was blown.  Fuse #9 is the one that allowed the test light 
to go out when I pulled the fuses.  But I see what you mean about the 
fuse and the battery killer being separate issues. So I have 2 problems 
to locate... Is it possible the fuse got weak and popped by itself?


    Speaking of Fuses - I noticed one of my fuses had a thin strip of 
solder connecting  the ends and saw in the WSM that some (all, ?) fuses 
would have this design after 12/90 (IIRC).  Any idea what the solder was 
supposed to do on the fuse?


    And lastly, I noticed some of my fuses have the same rating but the 
metal strips look different. Normal?


Thanks!   Now I have something else to think about ;-)

LarryT

91 300D


On 07/23/2018 10:45 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Whichever circuit has a blown fuse, is not the circuit that's killing batteries.
The blown fuse stops the current draw. There's likely a big issue on that 
circuit, but it's a separate issue from the dead battery.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] One For Dan P

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Was the change that big or just the fact VW management deceived them?  I 
seem to recall the actual MPG increase was pretty small.   Less that 1/2 
mile per gallon IIRC.


Of course Chevrolet got the ball rolling with their modification of gas 
engine to diesel.  A lot of broken cranks left a lot of GM owners 
feeling pretty bad.  And repairing a engine with a damaged crank is a 
LOT more costly than a few tenths MPG IMNSHO of course.


LarryT


On 07/23/2018 6:56 PM, OK Don via Mercedes wrote:

I think the VW dieselgate killed Diesels in the US - perhaps permanently.

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 4:23 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:



Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:


BTW,  When did MB stop importing any diesel equipped cars into the US?  I
assume they're still being made and sold in other markets...

LarryT

For instance:  In Ireland, the majority of cars are Dissel.   RTW gets

dissels.   The goofy CARB and Feds keep them out here.


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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Jim,

I'll study this for a while and I suspect things will become clearer.  
Thanks for the simplification!

LarryT

On 07/23/2018 11:05 AM, Jim Cathey via Mercedes wrote:

Basic electrical circuitry is actually quite simple.  Pretend that an
electron wishes to get from the positive side of the battery to the
negative side.  (They actually go the other way, due to a bad naming guess
by the original scientists, but that's irrelevant.)  How does it get
there?  Follow its journey along the map (schematic diagram) from the
hotter side (positive) to the notter side (negative) of each circuit
element along the way.  As it travels through each element designed to
extract energy from this motion (lights, motors) some work is performed,
and some heat is generated.  As it travels through everything else, some
heat is generated.  (Ideally, not much.)  Open switches, or fuses, or
wires, stop the journey.  More than one moving electron is required for any
significant action to take place.  For example, your test light probably
needs 3 quintillion of them a second to light at full brilliance.  You use
it by inserting it into a path, or bridging an open path, and seeing if
(m)any of the little buggers now have an intact road they can travel.

-- Jim
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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Unfortunately no, when I put it away for "semi-storage" I made sure 
everything was turned off.  I should have disconnected the battery but 
something came up IIRC.  After that it was out of the memory banks..


Larry



On 07/23/2018 12:06 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Could someone have left the courtesy light / map light turned on?  Might be
as simple as that...

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 7:54 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


On July 23, 2018 at 7:19 AM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I believe both that and the radio itself have been accused, right here

in this thread, of causing battery killing current draws.



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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max,

Well duh, it sounds so simple when you tell it like that ;-)

Actually I should have been able to figure that one by myself. But after 
so long it was obviously not coming easily.  Seems like I used to be 
much smarter than I am now.  Guess my brain is getting older too.   I 
hate to spend the time to do it but I should play a brain improvement 
game.  Maybe I could improve my problem solving abilities...


;-)

Larry


On 07/23/2018 12:09 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Hot side of the fuse: If you remove the fuse, one of the two terminals will
be "hot" with 12v DC.  In order to be hot, usually some switch like the
ignition switch needs to be turned on, but some fuses and circuits are not
switched and always have power, like the headlights and the courtesy light,
sometimes the radio.

#9 is probably hot all the time.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 7:12 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:



I'm still confused by Peter's comment about testing and the "Hot Side of
the Fuse".  I thought both sides were hot when energized? But then I
remembered what you said about the Switches and their role in my Test
Procedure - Is this right?  One side of the Fuse Holder is Hot, and when
the switch is switched on the circuit is completed?   Hmmm,... No, I guess
both sides of the fuse holder could be either hot or negative depending on
the design?  Right?



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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max,

Thanks, so you think it may be as simple as swapping out the 
front/courtesy light assy?


Sure, I'm in no hurry - I can drive it with Fuse 9 removed.  The Radio 
doesn't work anyway ;-)


Is there anyway to test it?  Maybe take the bulbs out, put the fuse back 
in and see what the test light tells us?


'Course swapping the assemblies would do the same thing  let me know 
how much you want for it please...


Think I should replace my Hazard Switch?  It's another user on my #9 
circuit and I have one in my toolbox


Thanks again,

Larry



On 07/23/2018 12:10 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Larry - I think I have a spare front / courtesy light.  Finding that spare
in my garage, now that may be another matter  If you are in no hurry,
and decide you would like it, let me know.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 12:06 PM, Meade Dillon  wrote:


Could someone have left the courtesy light / map light turned on?  Might
be as simple as that...

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Mon, Jul 23, 2018 at 7:54 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


On July 23, 2018 at 7:19 AM Mitch Haley via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I believe both that and the radio itself have been accused, right here

in this thread, of causing battery killing current draws.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

It's time to change the subject back to short - sorry it got off topic -

Larry


On 07/23/2018 10:24 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes wrote:
That was my fault - when I reported what happened when checking my 
fuses I used the wrong thread to reply to -


Sorry --

Larry


On 07/23/2018 7:54 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:
On July 23, 2018 at 7:19 AM Mitch Haley via Mercedes 
 wrote:


I believe both that and the radio itself have been accused, right 
here in this thread, of causing battery killing current draws.

Oops, not this thread, the short thread.

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

That was my fault - when I reported what happened when checking my fuses 
I used the wrong thread to reply to -


Sorry --

Larry


On 07/23/2018 7:54 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

On July 23, 2018 at 7:19 AM Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
wrote:

I believe both that and the radio itself have been accused, right here in this 
thread, of causing battery killing current draws.

Oops, not this thread, the short thread.

Mitch

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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

That is the odd thing - Fuse #8 blew but Fuse #9 is the one that turned 
off the test light as I went through the fuses disconnecting each one.  
But the fuse blowing could have been a fluke, perhaps?


I'll look at the Relay Diagrams and pull the Courtesy Light Relay, then 
put #9 back in and see what happens.


Thanks for the suggestion -

Larry


On 07/23/2018 8:11 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Terminal 86 is the German label for power supply connection at the relay.

I suspect the curtesy light relay, it's the usual failure.  Draws a couple amps 
all the time when dead.

Never known it to blow the fuse though.

Your lost wire could be pinched in the dash somewhere and grounded, too.  That 
might be a chore to find.

You can test the relay by unplugging it -- on the 124's it's under the steering 
column and fairly easy to get to.
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Re: [MBZ] One For Dan P

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Wish it were feasible to transplant the 1991 diesel and all it's systems 
into my 2006 E350.  Probably be a bear to do if possible at all for less 
than the price of a newer diesel.


BTW,  When did MB stop importing any diesel equipped cars into the US?  
I assume they're still being made and sold in other markets...


LarryT


On 07/22/2018 6:46 PM, Curley McLain via Mercedes wrote:

RE: engine swap for 110.110.10    (190Dc/200D)

OM617 won't fit.  You'd have to start with a 6 cyl vergasser for that.

Om616 will fit, if from a 4 speed car, and with relocation/remote 
oelfilter.   OM601 would probably work, probably with additional 
massive relocations.


OM 616 bell housing will bolt up to the original trans



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Re: [MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max,

Just finished testing the fuses -   I disconnected the Neg Cable 
Connector - Then with the Test Light connected between the Neg Cable and 
Neg Post - I found the light stayed Lit the whole time except when I got 
to #9.  I pulled the top of the Fuse Holder away from the top of each 
fuse and there was no change in the way the light acted except when I 
got to #9.  The Light went out when I removed the fuse and then when I 
put the fuse back the light came back on.  I then pulled it again.


BTW, I remembered that when I R&R'd the AC Evap. I lost the power wire 
that makes the antenna go up/down when the radio is turned on  - it 
disappeared into the area under/behind the console and after 2 days of 
searching I gave up and found another place to get 12v when the key 
turned on.   I ended up tying into the light in the glove box for power 
to raise/lower the antenna.  Maybe that wire came in contact with the 
chassis?


But the good thing is, I am beginning to understand how to test, how the 
test work and what they tell me - Thanks to you, Peter and Craig.  I 
still have a long way to go before I can operate by myself, but at least 
I understand more about what I'm doing.


I'm still confused by Peter's comment about testing and the "Hot Side of 
the Fuse".  I thought both sides were hot when energized? But then I 
remembered what you said about the Switches and their role in my Test 
Procedure - Is this right?  One side of the Fuse Holder is Hot, and when 
the switch is switched on the circuit is completed?   Hmmm,... No, I 
guess both sides of the fuse holder could be either hot or negative 
depending on the design?  Right?


Oh well, as long as the lights come on when I flip the switch. ;-)

Anyway.  here's the list of associated things on circuit #9:

Diagnostic Term. # 6
Hazard Warning Light
Clock
Front Roof Light
Radio
Vanity Mirror Light
Relay Comfort Circuitry Term 86.

I have no idea what Term 6 and 86 do or where they are located but I 
doubt either would have a short.


I'll start troubleshooting the things on this circuit.

Comments anyone?

LarryT
91 300D





On 07/22/2018 3:32 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Just a slow day perhaps.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sun, Jul 22, 2018 at 2:47 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Hey Guys. Haven't seen any emails since 2;26 this morning.  Did everyone
sleep in?

LarryT


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[MBZ] Is the List Down?

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Guys. Haven't seen any emails since 2;26 this morning.  Did everyone 
sleep in?


LarryT


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hey Max,

No problem!  It's all a learning experience -

I'll go back and read the procedure for the test you suggest.  Do I pull 
them all or 1 at a time?


  Since I'm measuring Current I assume I do need to change the leads.  
Never mind, I think I figured it out. ;-)  Except for the details about 
the test.


I think I'll also do as Craig suggested.  But I still want to learn how 
to test by pulling the fuses.  I'll go back and re-read your emails.


Thanks again,

Larry


On 07/21/2018 6:49 PM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Larry,

Very sorry, my test was a bad test.  I didn't take into account that the
fuse is on the wrong side of the switches for those circuits, so you
basically acted as the switch and energized those circuits so they turned
on whatever was on that circuit.

So we are back to pulling each fuse, and measuring the current draw across
the fuse terminals.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 5:55 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Hi Max, After re-reading your post I'm wondering if I am doing something
wrong.  Here's the numbers I got:

1 - 0.0
2  - 5.78
3 - 5.84
4 - 23-19
5 - 33.36
6 - 33.41
7 - 33.24
8 - 23.24
9 - 9.07
10 - 5.75
11 - 0.0
12 - 0.0
13 - 63.5
14 - 64.0
15 - 91.6 (Headlights)
16 - 0.0
A - 0.0
B - 33.1
C - 6.08
D - 6.19
E  - 0.0
F - 0.0
G - 0.0
H  - 0.0

I set the DMM to read mA with the 15A port and the black in the4 Com
port..  I triple checked the plugs/ports to be sure I did as instructed.
When I tested # 15 the headlights came on - another sounded the horn - made
me jump ;-)
So I think I was doing it right but my numbers are so fr off it seems at
odds to what you said...

One more think - My DMM said to measure 0-400 mA use the  mA symbol (which
I used) and for greater than 400 it said to set the selector to 15A - which
I did not use.  So I think that's correct.  My results are so wildly at
odds to what you said I might see it makes me wonder what might be going
on...  BTW, I went through the numbers twice - the 2nd time I wrote the
results down -  the 1st time I checked them I noticed they looked strange.

What do you think?   If the Alt has a shorted diode would it affect
several circuits? hmmm...

Thanks!
Larry




On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Craig, That sounds easy enough - I even have a bulb with leads on it for 
this kind of test.  Or, I could use my store bought test Light. ;-)  (a little 
light finally came on, ... get it?... ;-)

Larry


On 07/21/2018 6:59 PM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jul 2018 18:49:06 -0400 Meade Dillon via Mercedes
 wrote:


Larry,

Very sorry, my test was a bad test.  I didn't take into account that the
fuse is on the wrong side of the switches for those circuits, so you
basically acted as the switch and energized those circuits so they
turned on whatever was on that circuit.

So we are back to pulling each fuse, and measuring the current draw
across the fuse terminals.

Or put a light bulb between the battery's negative terminal and the
(removed) negative cable, noting the bulb is lit (dimly or brightly)
and then pulling and replacing fuses until you find the one which makes
it go out.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I agree that is a possibility.  I'll investigate it.

Thanks,

LarryT


On 07/21/2018 5:34 PM, G Mann via Mercedes wrote:

Don't overlook the value of load testing the battery. If it has a cell
internally shorted, it would self discharge much as you describe.
A load test will show that problem, if you have it. From what you've
described.. I suspect the battery may have "issues".

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 2:26 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Thanks Scott!  Every detail helps!

Larry


On 07/21/2018 4:26 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:


If none of the fuses stop the drain, check out the alternator.  The
alternator connects to the battery without a fuse and a bad alternator
diode would drain the battery.

-Original Message-

From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Larry Turner via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2018 9:06 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Larry Turner 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short

Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope -
temp is
supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just found the
humidity
is 100% - Yuck!

Thanks again to all who responded -

LarryT



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the


positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one
lead
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in
turn.  Any
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max, After re-reading your post I'm wondering if I am doing something 
wrong.  Here's the numbers I got:


1 - 0.0
2  - 5.78
3 - 5.84
4 - 23-19
5 - 33.36
6 - 33.41
7 - 33.24
8 - 23.24
9 - 9.07
10 - 5.75
11 - 0.0
12 - 0.0
13 - 63.5
14 - 64.0
15 - 91.6 (Headlights)
16 - 0.0
A - 0.0
B - 33.1
C - 6.08
D - 6.19
E  - 0.0
F - 0.0
G - 0.0
H  - 0.0

I set the DMM to read mA with the 15A port and the black in the4 Com 
port..  I triple checked the plugs/ports to be sure I did as 
instructed.  When I tested # 15 the headlights came on - another sounded 
the horn - made me jump ;-)
So I think I was doing it right but my numbers are so fr off it seems at 
odds to what you said...


One more think - My DMM said to measure 0-400 mA use the  mA symbol 
(which I used) and for greater than 400 it said to set the selector to 
15A - which I did not use.  So I think that's correct.  My results are 
so wildly at odds to what you said I might see it makes me wonder what 
might be going on...  BTW, I went through the numbers twice - the 2nd 
time I wrote the results down -  the 1st time I checked them I noticed 
they looked strange.


What do you think?   If the Alt has a shorted diode would it affect 
several circuits? hmmm...


Thanks!
Larry



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the 
positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead 
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any 
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Scott!  Every detail helps!

Larry


On 07/21/2018 4:26 PM, Scott Ritchey via Mercedes wrote:

If none of the fuses stop the drain, check out the alternator.  The alternator 
connects to the battery without a fuse and a bad alternator diode would drain 
the battery.


-Original Message-
From: Mercedes [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of
Larry Turner via Mercedes
Sent: Saturday, July 21, 2018 9:06 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: Larry Turner 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] Short

Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope - temp is
supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just found the humidity
is 100% - Yuck!

Thanks again to all who responded -

LarryT



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the

positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.


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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Mitch!

That doesn't sound like a fun way to spend a weekend!  BTW, what you 
described is very much what I saw the mechanics doing in the videos - 
they were using a foreign language I didn't recognize but it may have 
been German.  The sound was pretty poor.


They also used a shop made slide tool which had 2, 3' long legs that 
bolted behind the hub - then a large sledge was used to whack away at 
the other end (non-hub end) until it pulled loose.


The BMW guy also used a bearing collar behind the hub to press the hub 
off using lug bolts to push thru the flange against the collar slowly 
pulling the hub away from the carrier.


After watching the various videos I became more familiar with what I 
might need do! :-)


I must admit though, I'm having 2nd thoughts...  I get around pretty 
good with my walker but my adult son is not mechanically inclined (at 
all) and my wife has good intentions but lacks the weight needed to 
loosen bolts, etc.


But if I can get close to things while in my chair, I should be able to 
do the job.  I have plenty of tools to help along the way - and a large 
group of knowledgeable friends to tell me how to work around a problem. 
wink, wink -


Thanks to all -

LarryT


On 07/21/2018 2:31 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

On July 21, 2018 at 1:22 PM Larry Turner via Mercedes  
wrote:

Perhaps the Harbor Freight Bearing tools might make this a driveway
job?   BTW, I also watch a couple of videos showing slide hammers and
similar being used (w/a sledge hammer!) that looked like the mechanics
doing the work probably needed to go home for some rest! :-)

There's an expensive tool (about $400 for the Chinese copy, I forget what the 
real one costs) that makes the job easy-peasy. I saw a youtube video of the job 
done the right way last winter.

I did a ML (W163) rear wheel bearing ($40 Timken bearing) without the tool.
Had to undo some ball joints to take the axle out.
Then used a BIG (10lb I believe) slide hammer bolted to the hub flange to yank 
it out of the bearing. Took a lot of hammering to get it out after I put the 
ball joints back together to hold the knuckle in place.
Then a big set of snap ring pliers to get the bearing retaining ring out.
Then I used the discs from a bearing/seal driving kit with a long bolt/nut to 
push the old bearing out and drove the new bearing in with a combination of the 
outer shell from the old bearing and the bolt/disc setup.
Not a job I look forward to doing again, but I did buy two of the bearings so I 
have one on hand in case another one fails.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks,

BTW, I was browsing YouTube videos and came across this R Whl Brg R&R 
for a BMW - after watching I thought it was very much like the W124.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D4PK1jXhppE

Some of the fasteners are different and it doesn't have the 5 point rear 
deal like a 124 but the axle bearings look very similar.


Perhaps the Harbor Freight Bearing tools might make this a driveway 
job?   BTW, I also watch a couple of videos showing slide hammers and 
similar being used (w/a sledge hammer!) that looked like the mechanics 
doing the work probably needed to go home for some rest! :-)


Anyway,

Larry



On 07/21/2018 9:56 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

You can check them in place -- jack up the car so you can reach the axle and 
rotate the shaft.  If either end moves in relation to the joint, it's bad.  
They can go bad like my Golf though, and grind.  You'd probably have to pull it 
to see if it's the wheel bearing or the axle joint unless it's bad enough the 
cause the wheel to have excess play on the bearing.

I suspect you will have to buy the whole axle, and do not get a "rebuilt" one 
unless you know for certain they put NEW joints on it.

The wheel bearing is like any other, grinding or thumping on rotation is a bad 
one.  They don't go very often, they are quite robust, but I have had a couple 
go on my since 1980.
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Craig!


On 07/21/2018 10:53 AM, Craig via Mercedes wrote:

On Sat, 21 Jul 2018 09:27:30 -0400 Larry Turner via Mercedes
 wrote:


Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what
I want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need
to be sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is
right, you are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug
positions to be used.  \

You can also use a tail light or brake light bulb instead of the meter to
track down draws. The brake light bulb would be for large draws; the tail
light bulb would be for small draws.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Happy with it?  I shouldn't think about another meter - I have 3 or 4 - 
but I've always wanted a clamp.


BTW, one of my meters is a Innova 3340A Automotive Tester - I am still 
learning its capabilities but one of the things I like most is it has a 
Dwell function - when I set the points on my 911 I used it and it 
allowed me to set dwell to hundreths!  Not that precision to that level 
is needed - I have a spread of 6 degrees and am usually happy if I am 
anywhere between the high and low - but it's nice to have that function.


It also has Temp and all the normal things on DMMs.

Anyway, I might be interested in a clamp meter  I hate needing a 
tool and not having it,.


Larry


On 07/21/2018 9:57 AM, Rick Knoble via Mercedes wrote:

Max sez:


Correct, you've got it.  A great way to learn a new skill like this is by
video on Youtube.  I'm tempted to make one myself right now...

I've been tempted to start making videos myself.
I might just follow through on that.
As a side note, here is the meter I
purchased for such things.



Rick
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Good suggestion -  I'll check YT before I go out -

Larry


On 07/21/2018 9:39 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Correct, you've got it.  A great way to learn a new skill like this is by
video on Youtube.  I'm tempted to make one myself right now...

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 9:27 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what I
want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need to be
sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is right, you
are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug positions to be
used.  \

Thanks!


On 07/21/2018 9:16 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
still left in their holders in the fuse box.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch

my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be
any
fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
connected there's no circuit, right?

Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect

the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each
fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] re Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I do have a Hirschmann Power Ant so that will definitely be checked!

(Love those 108's)

Larry


On 07/21/2018 9:27 AM, Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes wrote:

The Hirschmann power antenna on my first 108 shorted out and drained the
battery. Was a mystery until my mechanic figured it out.

On Jul 21, 2018 1:02 AM, "clay monroe via Mercedes" 
wrote:


Either the seat or antenna are shorting out based on your list.  Those are
the only things I suspect would draw enough magic pixie electrons to cook a
fuse.


clay

1974 450sl -  Frosch - Two tone green
1986 SDL - Polei
1982 300 SD - Allen

retired models-
2002 s430 - Victor, a Stately & well tailored crap
1976 300D - Blei Vanst - it looks silvery
1972 220D - Gump - She was green, simple and ran
1995 E300D - Gave her life to save me against a Dame in a SUV
POS 1987 SDL - Beware Nigerian Scammers








On Jul 20, 2018, at 4:52 PM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <

mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

Ok, here's the fuse that blew - Position C - it controls the following:

Rear roof light

trunk light

rear door locking system

seat back arrestor

central locking

door lights

reading lights

Auto Antenna

Control Unit Seat Adjustment

But if one of these were left on, I think the battery would run down

(which it did) but I don't think it would blow a fuse.

The above is FYI in case someone knows a reason for my battery to

discharge in 2 or 3 days.

BTW, I charged it at 40A for 1.5 hours and it raised it to 12.15V -

almost where I want it to be when cranking the engine.

TIA!
LarryT
91 300D
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Re: [MBZ] '78 Land Yacht attracts fierce bidding on BAT

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Glad to see Porsche didn't make the list. ;-)

LarryT


On 07/21/2018 9:11 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

Another nail in the coffin of privacy?  Actually I think the coffin is all
the way sealed and down in the hole, now we are throwing dirt on it.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 3:19 AM, archer75--- via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I wonder how much of this interest in old, quality cars is due to the
governments laws requiring manufacturers to install Event Data Recorders
(EDR's) in new cars?

The EDR recording of a contestable accident in a newer car might suggest
that the driver was at fault when the other driver in an older car without
an EDR might have actually caused the accident.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Event_data_recorder#Accessing_
event_data_recorder_information

https://www.carprousa.com/does-your-car-have-a-black-box

Mercedes didn't appear to have EDRs installed before 2014

http://harristechnical.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/HTS_CDR_List.pdf



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Understood =


On 07/21/2018 9:17 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

No, the light is just a timer that comes on when the relay is initially
energized, if the relay is coming on and then sticking on, timer only
lights up the light once and then shuts off until the next cycle.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:01 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


Hi Max,

If the GPR is sticking on,, would the GP light be on?   I may know the
answer but I'll ask anyway - my 240D had a relay that would come on at
random times - only indication I recall is the headlights would get dim for
a few seconds.  But I don't recall if the light came on

Anyway - something important to check - and I have a spare GPR on the
shelf :-)

LarryT


On 07/20/2018 7:21 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


The pre-glow relay is notorious for sticking on and killing the battery.
   With the engine off and a fully charged battery, checck the battery
voltage with the battery connected.  Disconnect or remove the fuse for the
relay, see if the voltage increases.  If you see a jump, the relay is
sticking.  You may want to start the car, let it run a bit, then shut it
off and repeat the test.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max, one more thing then I should be good to go test - this is what I 
want to be testing: AC/DC CURRENT MEASUREMENT (AMPS), right?  I need to 
be sure I am reading the right section of the manual.   If this is 
right, you are correct that measuring Amps requires different plug 
positions to be used.  \


Thanks!


On 07/21/2018 9:16 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
still left in their holders in the fuse box.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch
my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be any
fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
connected there's no circuit, right?

Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Max - makes perfect sense now - sorry I needed that extra 
explanation -


OK, I'll get the instructions out for the DMM so i have the cables set 
correctly - thanks for that suggestion.  V Helpful.


Larry


On 07/21/2018 9:16 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

When the positive cable is off, no current can flow.  When you put your
meter between the battery+ and the fuse, your DMM completes the circuit so
that current can flow through your DMM.  Make sure to set the DMM to
measure amps and on most you also have to move the positive lead from one
hole / connection on the DMM to a different connection.  The fuses are
still left in their holders in the fuse box.

-
Max
Charleston SC

On Sat, Jul 21, 2018 at 8:10 AM, Larry Turner via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:


I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then touch
my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there could be any
fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without the cable
connected there's no circuit, right?

Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:


If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect
the positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put
one lead on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse
in turn.  Any fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is
suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Based on your description of the noises I am inclined to be confident 
the outer bearing is bad - we get a loud growling noise starting at 
45mph or so and getting worse and speed increases. But I don't recall 
any vibrations on accel / decel or clunks as you describe.


The CV joint is a question though - are the axles sold as complete units 
with new CVs at each end?  Never mind - I can look on Pelican, etc.


I have changed Axle shafts on FWD cars when the CVs started clicking - 
the old shaft popped out and the new one popped in - is it the same with 
W124?


Also, let's say I get the carriers off and it's not damaged so it can't 
be reused.   If I rotate the axle shaft will that tell me anything about 
the condition of the CVs?


Larry


On 07/21/2018 8:59 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

A bad bearing can damage the wheel carrier, or at least "grow" enough to be 
very difficult to get out -- had that happen a time or two.

Basically the bearing is a double row ball bearing with one side free (so it 
can be assembled) -- the axle nut holds it together.

The nub is pressed into the center, and unless you've stripped a bolt hole or 
it's badly corroded, it's perfectly re-usable.

Check the axle for a bad CV joint before condemning the bearing though -- if 
there is ANY rotational play  between joints and shaft one end or the other is 
shot.  Typically the inner end, which is a tripod design, goes long before the 
outer Rzeppa joint does, but they can both go bad.  The inner causes vibration 
on acceleration and/or deceleration and clunks when you put it in gear, the 
outer usually starts grinding with the noise most noticable at speeds around 
50-60 mph.

I'm replacing an axle in the Golf this weekend for that reason -- the inner 
Rzeppa is grinding.
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks for all the great replies!  - I will investigate today I hope - 
temp is supposed to be in the 70s so it should be nice outside.  Just 
found the humidity is 100% - Yuck!


Thanks again to all who responded -

LarryT



On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the 
positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead 
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any 
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter,

Ok, I think I understand now.  Thanks for the explanation -  I may try 
both methods to see what happens.


For some reason my brain understands the 2nd method described below.

But it still seems like something is missing from the 1st method - if 
the + cable is disconnected, how can there be a hot side of the fuse?  
Seems like neither side would be getting 12v, but I never fully 
understood electrical stuff


Thanks -
Larry


On 07/21/2018 8:46 AM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

You meter is completing the circuit if you are touching the "hot" (battery) 
side of the fuse.

You can do the same thing by pulling the battery cable and connecting the meter 
between the cable and the battery post, then pulling fuses to see when the 
current flow drops off.

Peter
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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Thanks Peter!

I need to look at the WSM    again - I'm not understanding the hub 
completely.  Or I could pull a wheel and take a look - might be worth 
the time because I find the idea of replacing the carrier w/a used one 
interesting.  Then again, I'm not sure I would gain anything by using a 
Used carrier Vs removing mine, taking it to a shop and having them R&R 
the bearing then I replace the carrier.  That 2nd option may simplify 
things as it insures the part I have fits.


My bearing was really making a lot of noise - I have been assuming the 
bearing would absorb all the damage leaving the carrier undamaged - is 
that a realistic assumption?


Yeah, I recall seeing the Nm for that 30mm nut - over 200 IIRC.

Larry


On 07/20/2018 6:37 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

The bearing is pressed into the wheel carrier, and then the hub is pressed into 
the center of the bearing.  Don't want you to end up with half of what you 
need, eh?  Three parts there.

The axle does indeed fit on a spline through the hub.  It also holds the 
bearing together, so the nut needs to be tightened correctly.  Failed to do 
that once and had to repeat the job.
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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

I'm confused - nothing new there - if I disconnect the + cable then 
touch my DMM between the + post and the fuses I wouldn't think there 
could be any fuse to draw anything - or am I missing something?  Without 
the cable connected there's no circuit, right?


Thx

Larry


On 07/20/2018 7:50 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

If the problem is not the glow relay, the easiest way is to disconnect the 
positive battery terminal, set your meter for measuring current, put one lead 
on the positive battery post and use the other to touch each fuse in turn.  Any 
fuse that draws more than ten or fifteen milli amps is suspect.



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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

It seems to me batteries are lasting much longer than they used to - I 
got 13 years from a Optima I bought mid 2000.   But the replacement I 
bought lasted 5 years so who knows.  I have several lead acid batteries 
bought in 2013 still alive and well...


Having found out that I have a short of some kind at work forces me to 
take another look at the battery I removed from the 300D, especially 
given your neighbors experience with the AC clutch...


LarryT.


On 07/20/2018 7:38 PM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes wrote:

Had a weird one this week.
Neighbor can't start his truck. (1996 Chevy 1500 pickup)
Puts it on the charger, drives his wife's truck to work.
Calls me up and asks me to look at it, he doesn't think it's charging.
I go over there and it's DEAD, like Larry's car after being parked all week 
with a big current draw, but his truck did it overnight. I jump start his 
'smart' charger with my 'dumb' charger.
Six hours later, it's still charging.
He gets home, it starts right up, alternator is working fine.
He'll leave it on the charger until the charger shuts off.
Next morning it's still charging, he buys new battery.

While putting new battery in, he hears a clicking noise.
Calls me over to investigate, it's his AC clutch. It's engaging as soon as you 
hook up the battery, with the key out of the truck and the AC off, in fact he 
never turned it on as long as he owned the truck. Pull the AC relay, no more 
clicking. And probably nothing wrong with the battery he just traded in. 
(Autozone Duralast battery dated 11/2007)

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Max,

If the GPR is sticking on,, would the GP light be on?   I may know the 
answer but I'll ask anyway - my 240D had a relay that would come on at 
random times - only indication I recall is the headlights would get dim 
for a few seconds.  But I don't recall if the light came on


Anyway - something important to check - and I have a spare GPR on the 
shelf :-)


LarryT


On 07/20/2018 7:21 PM, Max Dillon via Mercedes wrote:

The pre-glow relay is notorious for sticking on and killing the battery.
With the engine off and a fully charged battery, checck the battery voltage 
with the battery connected.  Disconnect or remove the fuse for the relay, see 
if the voltage increases.  If you see a jump, the relay is sticking.  You may 
want to start the car, let it run a bit, then shut it off and repeat the test.



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[MBZ] re Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Ok, here's the fuse that blew - Position C - it controls the following:

Rear roof light

trunk light

rear door locking system

seat back arrestor

central locking

door lights

reading lights

Auto Antenna

Control Unit Seat Adjustment

But if one of these were left on, I think the battery would run down 
(which it did) but I don't think it would blow a fuse.


The above is FYI in case someone knows a reason for my battery to 
discharge in 2 or 3 days.
BTW, I charged it at 40A for 1.5 hours and it raised it to 12.15V - 
almost where I want it to be when cranking the engine.


TIA!
LarryT
91 300D
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[MBZ] Mercedes Time/Labor calculator`

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi All (again),

When looking for my fuse description I came across something I found 
years ago - probably in the 90s - called a Mercedes Time and Labor 
Calculator.


It used to work but I haven't tried it in a while.   Anyway, it's in a 
zip file that I will be happy to send to anyone who wants it.


Send me a note to i...@youroil.net  (or thru Mercedes@okie) ;-) and I 
will send a copy right out.


Ya'll have fun!

LarryT


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[MBZ] Short

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Gang!

Tuesday, I put the spare battery from the 240D in my 91 300D and it 
fired right up without any charging needed.  I put my DMM on it and it 
read in excess of 13V and after the GPs heated it fired instantly.


Today, I planned to start it and maybe run it around the block - maybe 
more just to give it some exercise but when we turned the key, not even 
the lights in the dash are lit!  So I got my DMM again and checked the 
voltage in the battery and it is down to a little over 2!  But I can 
charge it.  I disconnected the neg cable and it is charging at 40amps.


My question is (finally, right?) and I need to know how to find the 
short.  Just out of curiosity I checked the Fuses and found fuse "C" was 
blown - something unusual - I checked the map and C protects the seat 
motors, Trunk Light and some other stuff - I'll write all of that down 
shortly.


So, I can disconnect the battery to prevent discharge but I'm wondering 
how to troubleshoot what I always called a dead short.


I can pull the fuses one by one and check the rate of discharge but with 
so many fuses that'll take a while.


Thx,

LarryT

91 300D


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Re: [MBZ] My 91 300D Rear Hub etc.

[Larry Turner via Mercedes]

Hi Peter, just to be sure I understand what you are saying when you 
wrote, "not just the hub that presses into the bearing." - I thought 
the bearing presses into the hub, not the other way around? Then the 
axle slides thru the center of the bearing..., no?


I think it is easy for me to stumble over the various names these parts 
seem to have...


Thanks,

Larry


On 07/16/2018 4:31 PM, Peter Frederick via Mercedes wrote:

Make sure it's the complete wheel carrier, not just the hub that presses into 
the bearing.
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