Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

At least the seats aren't torn.

On Mon, Sep 4, 2023 at 4:07 PM dan penoff.com via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> And no extra charge for the AZ patina, either!
>
> -D
>
> On Sep 4, 2023, at 12:56 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
>
> In today’s crazy world, not too crazy I suppose.
>
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/258631180319150/
>
> AZBob
>
> Sent from Mail for Windows
>
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD

[dan penoff.com via Mercedes]

And no extra charge for the AZ patina, either!

-D

On Sep 4, 2023, at 12:56 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes  
wrote:

In today’s crazy world, not too crazy I suppose.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/258631180319150/

AZBob

Sent from Mail for Windows

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[MBZ] 1985 300SD

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

In today’s crazy world, not too crazy I suppose. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/258631180319150/ AZBob Sent from Mail for Windows 

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - 154k miles - $2,200

[Buggered Benzmail via Mercedes]

Take 15 bennies

--FT
Sent from iFōn

> On Apr 22, 2023, at 10:09 PM, Bob Rentfro via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> No too awful. 
> 
> AzBob
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:04 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> Doesn't look too awful for the price. Boring colors though. Probably could 
>> get it for $1,800 or so.
>> 
>> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/255918773562934/
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - 154k miles - $2,200

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Other than the godawful tedium of the color scheme, there are no obvious
issues.  The '85 models seldom have rust from my experience, and the
engines are indestructible.  If you buy it I can advise on repair issues
and parts availability.

On Sat, Apr 22, 2023 at 10:09 PM Bob Rentfro via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> No too awful.
>
> AzBob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:04 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes <
> mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:
> >
> > Doesn't look too awful for the price. Boring colors though. Probably
> could get it for $1,800 or so.
> >
> > https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/255918773562934/
> > ___
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - 154k miles - $2,200

[Bob Rentfro via Mercedes]

No too awful. 

AzBob

Sent from my iPhone

> On Apr 22, 2023, at 1:04 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Doesn't look too awful for the price. Boring colors though. Probably could 
> get it for $1,800 or so.
> 
> https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/255918773562934/
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD - 154k miles - $2,200

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Doesn't look too awful for the price. Boring colors though. Probably could get 
it for $1,800 or so.

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/255918773562934/
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - $2,000

[Andrew Strasfogel via Mercedes]

Painted in a non-traditional blue.

On Fri, Oct 8, 2021, 2:25 PM Allan Streib via Mercedes <
mercedes@okiebenz.com> wrote:

> Purchased 8 months ago in Fla but now in Illinois and never
> retitled/registered?
>
>
> https://bn.craigslist.org/cto/d/bloomington-1985-mercedes-300sd/7391284573.html
>
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD - $2,000

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Purchased 8 months ago in Fla but now in Illinois and never retitled/registered?

https://bn.craigslist.org/cto/d/bloomington-1985-mercedes-300sd/7391284573.html

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD with veggie kit - 340k miles - $2,850

[Kaleb Striplin via Mercedes]

If you listed to idiots on Fakebook, the fad is back. 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Jul 17, 2021, at 2:19 PM, Allan Streib via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Looks pretty far gone -- might serve as a beater if you had a supply of oil. 
> Or sell off the kit and drive the car. IDK I think the WVO fad is well past 
> its peak but maybe it'll come back if fuel prices keep going up.
> 
> https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/d/indianapolis-1985-mercedes-300sd-veggie/7352421592.html
> 
> Allan
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD with veggie kit - 340k miles - $2,850

[Allan Streib via Mercedes]

Looks pretty far gone -- might serve as a beater if you had a supply of oil. Or 
sell off the kit and drive the car. IDK I think the WVO fad is well past its 
peak but maybe it'll come back if fuel prices keep going up.

https://indianapolis.craigslist.org/cto/d/indianapolis-1985-mercedes-300sd-veggie/7352421592.html

Allan
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD factory servi e manual

[John P. English]

OK, guys and gals, I have been surfing the net for days now for the 
ultimate trouble shooting, service, repair source for my precious 300SD.  I 
must have found a dozen or more sources on twenty or more web sights with 
prices ranging from $20 to
$400.  But independent reviews by the people who have purchased and used 
them are uniformly uncomplimentary - insufficient specs, no transmission 
info, narrative confusing, sections missing, no or insufficient electric 
system diagrams or trouble shooting info, and on and on and on . . . .


It seems to be a simple question with no consensus of opinion:  What is the 
best ( most comprehensive, authoritative and complete) source?  Perhaps the 
answer is that no such source exists.  Comments, please.

--



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD factory servi e manual

[Rich Thomas]

I have the MB service manuals on CD if you want a copy.  I think they 
exist somewhere to download or access too.  You can also benefit from 
searching the forums for a particular procedure, lots of people do 
detailed documentation of their repairs.  Or just ask here!


The best source is the intertubes!

--R

On 2/4/12 11:23 AM, John P. English wrote:
OK, guys and gals, I have been surfing the net for days now for the 
ultimate trouble shooting, service, repair source for my precious 
300SD.  I must have found a dozen or more sources on twenty or more 
web sights with prices ranging from $20 to
$400.  But independent reviews by the people who have purchased and 
used them are uniformly uncomplimentary - insufficient specs, no 
transmission info, narrative confusing, sections missing, no or 
insufficient electric system diagrams or trouble shooting info, and on 
and on and on . . . .


It seems to be a simple question with no consensus of opinion:  What 
is the best ( most comprehensive, authoritative and complete) source?  
Perhaps the answer is that no such source exists.  Comments, please.

--



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD factory servi e manual

[Rick Knoble]

 From: johnpengl...@hotmail.com
 
 It seems to be a simple question with no consensus of opinion:  What is the 
 best ( most comprehensive, authoritative and complete) source?  Perhaps the 
 answer is that no such source exists.  Comments, please.


Paper
http://www.mercedesmanuals.com/Mercedes_Benz_Manuals_1980_1989_Factory_Official_s/3.htm

Online
http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/outside/12253/?requestedDocId=12253

CD-Rom You will probably have to call them. I have ordered from here before, 
but their site has changed.
http://www.mercedes-benz-classic.com/content/classic/mpc/mpc_classic_website/en/mpc_home/mbc/home/shop/classic_literature.html


Contact our Vintage Parts Helpline here in the U.S. at 1-866-MB-CLASSIC 
(1-866-622-5277).

Rick
  
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[John P. English]

Back in November of 2002 I bought a 1985 300SD from a fellow in Memphis.  
The car had 163,272 miles on the clock.  I have read on this list
that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes, and I am here as a 
living testimony to the accuracy of that statement.  Without
boring everyone with the details of my Mercedes education, let me cut to the 
chase.  I would really like to know of any and everyone's experience with
the A/C system on the 300SD.  Here is mine:  in April of 2003 I installed new 
a/c compressor, dryer, expansion valve - evacuated, flushed and recharged 
system, installed new center a/c and fresh air vacuum bellows.. In September of 
2003 installed new a/c controller and new a/c climate control relay. In January 
2005, repaired airflow doors in heater box.  In August of 2008 installed new 
fan blower motor. In April of 2009 evacuated system, replaced seals in 
compressor  recharged system.  In July 2009, replaced a/c compressor and 
recharged system.  In August 2009, replaced two vacuum bellows in dash.  In May 
2010, replaced auxiliary radiator fan and recharged a/c system.  In September 
2010, once again installed new a/c compressor, evacuated and recharged system.  
Currently in the shop because air flow from a/c is not cold and is blowing out 
of windshield defroster vents instead of out of dash vents.
Somebody somewhere must be doing something wrong - my mechanic is an old German 
who has been working on Mercedes for over fifty years.  His
knowledge of the car is great.  Just looking for some comments at to bad luck, 
normal, and maybe I should just brace for more of the same.  Comments,
please.  Thanks.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Rich Thomas]

That experience sounds a bit extreme.  Unclear why it would be eating 
compressors unless they were reman units.  The controller might need a 
solder reflow on the circuits if it is like the older ones?  You might 
want to get the manual and sit and study the circuits diagrams a bit to 
understand what is happening in there -- sounds like your mech is just 
throwing parts at it when there is something more fundamental going on.


You could buy my 84 and pump in some alt-12 refrigerant and have a nice 
cool car for $3k.


--R

On 8/21/11 12:52 PM, John P. English wrote:

 Back in November of 2002 I bought a 1985 300SD from a fellow in Memphis.  
The car had 163,272 miles on the clock.  I have read on this list
that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes, and I am here as a 
living testimony to the accuracy of that statement.  Without
boring everyone with the details of my Mercedes education, let me cut to the 
chase.  I would really like to know of any and everyone's experience with
the A/C system on the 300SD.  Here is mine:  in April of 2003 I installed new a/c 
compressor, dryer, expansion valve - evacuated, flushed and recharged system, 
installed new center a/c and fresh air vacuum bellows.. In September of 2003 
installed new a/c controller and new a/c climate control relay. In January 2005, 
repaired airflow doors in heater box.  In August of 2008 installed new fan blower 
motor. In April of 2009 evacuated system, replaced seals in compressor  
recharged system.  In July 2009, replaced a/c compressor and recharged system.  In 
August 2009, replaced two vacuum bellows in dash.  In May 2010, replaced auxiliary 
radiator fan and recharged a/c system.  In September 2010, once again installed new 
a/c compressor, evacuated and recharged system.  Currently in the shop because air 
flow from a/c is not cold and is blowing out of windshield defroster vents instead 
of out of dash vents.
Somebody somewhere must be doing something wrong - my mechanic is an old German 
who has been working on Mercedes for over fifty years.  His
knowledge of the car is great.  Just looking for some comments at to bad luck, 
normal, and maybe I should just brace for more of the same.  Comments,
please.  Thanks.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Jaime Kopchinski]

Hi John,
I find the frequent replacement of the AC compressor concerning, but its
possible after one fails catastrophically.

As for the frequent replacement of vacuum parts, I think that they all
should have been replaced the first time one of them failed.  Since they're
all the same age, its no surprise that they all failed eventually.

In general, the systems work very well.  As long as you replace all the
components every 25 years or so.

Jaime


On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 12:52 PM, John P. English
johnpengl...@hotmail.comwrote:

Back in November of 2002 I bought a 1985 300SD from a fellow in Memphis.
  The car had 163,272 miles on the clock.  I have read on this list
 that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes, and I am here
 as a living testimony to the accuracy of that statement.  Without
 boring everyone with the details of my Mercedes education, let me cut to
 the chase.  I would really like to know of any and everyone's experience
 with
 the A/C system on the 300SD.  Here is mine:  in April of 2003 I installed
 new a/c compressor, dryer, expansion valve - evacuated, flushed and
 recharged system, installed new center a/c and fresh air vacuum bellows.. In
 September of 2003 installed new a/c controller and new a/c climate control
 relay. In January 2005, repaired airflow doors in heater box.  In August of
 2008 installed new fan blower motor. In April of 2009 evacuated system,
 replaced seals in compressor  recharged system.  In July 2009, replaced a/c
 compressor and recharged system.  In August 2009, replaced two vacuum
 bellows in dash.  In May 2010, replaced auxiliary radiator fan and recharged
 a/c system.  In September 2010, once again installed new a/c compressor,
 evacuated and recharged system.  Currently in the shop because air flow from
 a/c is not cold and is blowing out of windshield defroster vents instead of
 out of dash vents.
 Somebody somewhere must be doing something wrong - my mechanic is an old
 German who has been working on Mercedes for over fifty years.  His
 knowledge of the car is great.  Just looking for some comments at to bad
 luck, normal, and maybe I should just brace for more of the same.  Comments,
 please.  Thanks.
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Allan Streib]

Jaime Kopchinski jaime...@gmail.com writes:

 In general, the systems work very well.  As long as you replace all the
 components every 25 years or so.

That's a good perspective to keep in mind, but also anyone contemplating
a 20 - 30 year old MB should expect the climate control to need
potentially expensive attention, if you aren't lucky enough to be able
to find a grey market import with manual controls.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 11:07 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 anyone contemplating
 a 20 - 30 year old MB should expect the climate control to need
 potentially expensive attention, if you aren't lucky enough to be able
 to find a grey market import with manual controls.


I wish someone who is a better hand at soldering than I am would take
over Jim's old business rebuilding the ACC PBUs!  The one he did for
me five years or so ago is still soldiering on just fine in my '87
300D.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[LWB250]

I don't know what Jim might have done other than resolder the PB units, but if 
that's all you need, I can do it for cheap.  I've done it a bunch of times and 
have all the necessary hardware.  I have documented the teardown process on my 
web site for a while.  I don't have any means of testing the units, but I can 
certainly resolder and relamp them.  Might as well relamp them while you've got 
it apart

Let me know.  I would do it for a minimal fee once I get moved into my new (to 
me) house.

Dan



From: Alex Chamberlain apchamberl...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Sunday, August 21, 2011 2:11 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 11:07 AM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:
 anyone contemplating
 a 20 - 30 year old MB should expect the climate control to need
 potentially expensive attention, if you aren't lucky enough to be able
 to find a grey market import with manual controls.


I wish someone who is a better hand at soldering than I am would take
over Jim's old business rebuilding the ACC PBUs!  The one he did for
me five years or so ago is still soldiering on just fine in my '87
300D.

Alex

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Max Dillon]

Three compressors in 8 years is extreme, are you replacing the oil? Using the 
correct oil?

Max
-- 
Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

That experience sounds a bit extreme. Unclear why it would be eating 
compressors unless they were reman units. The controller might need a 
solder reflow on the circuits if it is like the older ones? You might 
want to get the manual and sit and study the circuits diagrams a bit to 
understand what is happening in there -- sounds like your mech is just 
throwing parts at it when there is something more fundamental going on.

You could buy my 84 and pump in some alt-12 refrigerant and have a nice 
cool car for $3k.

--R

On 8/21/11 12:52 PM, John P. English wrote:
 Back in November of 2002 I bought a 1985 300SD from a fellow in Memphis. The 
 car had 163,272 miles on the clock. I have read on this list
 that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes, and I am here as 
 a living testimony to the accuracy of that statement. Without
 boring everyone with the details of my Mercedes education, let me cut to the 
 chase. I would really like to know of any and everyone's experience with
 the A/C system on the 300SD. Here is mine: in April of 2003 I installed new 
 a/c compressor, dryer, expansion valve - evacuated, flushed and recharged 
 system, installed new center a/c and fresh air vacuum bellows.. In September 
 of 2003 installed new a/c controller and new a/c climate control relay. In 
 January 2005, repaired airflow doors in heater box. In August of 2008 
 installed new fan blower motor. In April of 2009 evacuated system, replaced 
 seals in compressor recharged system. In July 2009, replaced a/c compressor 
 and recharged system. In August 2009, replaced two vacuum bellows in dash. In 
 May 2010, replaced auxiliary radiator fan and recharged a/c system. In 
 September 2010, once again installed new a/c compressor, evacuated and 
 recharged system. Currently in the shop because air flow from a/c is not cold 
 and is blowing out of windshield defroster vents instead of out of dash vents.
 Somebody somewhere must be doing something wrong - my mechanic is an old 
 German who has been working on Mercedes for over fifty years. His
 knowledge of the car is great. Just looking for some comments at to bad luck, 
 normal, and maybe I should just brace for more of the same. Comments,
 please. Thanks.
_

 http://www.okiebenz.com
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Peter Frederick]

If you don't install a filter in the suction line after losing an AC  
compressor, the crud you cannot flush out will eat the new one rather  
quickly.


Filters are cheap, compressors are not.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[G Mann]

Seems to me that it is more likely trash in the cooling system left over
from when the first compressor failed.  If it grenaded, as they sometimes
do, and if the system was not completely flushed [there is a procedure for
that] then the little bits float through the system until they damage the
replacement compressor,, which makes more nasties to fly through the
systemetc,, etc...

Based on the information given thus far, not possible to give an accurate
diagnosis. However, being a good Mercedes mechanic doesn't necessarily make
you a good AC mechanic.  Might take the car to an AC specialist and tell
them the whole story of what's happend to the car AC system to date...

Doing it right takes more time.. doing it over takes more money.
Grant...

On Sun, Aug 21, 2011 at 5:23 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.netwrote:

 Three compressors in 8 years is extreme, are you replacing the oil? Using
 the correct oil?

 Max
 --
 Sent from my Android phone with K-9 Mail. Please excuse my brevity.

 Rich Thomas richthomas79td...@constructivity.net wrote:

 That experience sounds a bit extreme. Unclear why it would be eating
 compressors unless they were reman units. The controller might need a
 solder reflow on the circuits if it is like the older ones? You might
 want to get the manual and sit and study the circuits diagrams a bit to
 understand what is happening in there -- sounds like your mech is just
 throwing parts at it when there is something more fundamental going on.

 You could buy my 84 and pump in some alt-12 refrigerant and have a nice
 cool car for $3k.

 --R

 On 8/21/11 12:52 PM, John P. English wrote:
  Back in November of 2002 I bought a 1985 300SD from a fellow in Memphis.
 The car had 163,272 miles on the clock. I have read on this list
  that there is nothing more expensive than a cheap Mercedes, and I am here
 as a living testimony to the accuracy of that statement. Without
  boring everyone with the details of my Mercedes education, let me cut to
 the chase. I would really like to know of any and everyone's experience with
  the A/C system on the 300SD. Here is mine: in April of 2003 I installed
 new a/c compressor, dryer, expansion valve - evacuated, flushed and
 recharged system, installed new center a/c and fresh air vacuum bellows.. In
 September of 2003 installed new a/c controller and new a/c climate control
 relay. In January 2005, repaired airflow doors in heater box. In August of
 2008 installed new fan blower motor. In April of 2009 evacuated system,
 replaced seals in compressor recharged system. In July 2009, replaced a/c
 compressor and recharged system. In August 2009, replaced two vacuum bellows
 in dash. In May 2010, replaced auxiliary radiator fan and recharged a/c
 system. In September 2010, once again installed new a/c compressor,
 evacuated and recharged system. Currently in the shop because air flow from
 a/c is not cold and is blowing out of windshield defroster vents instead of
 out of dash vents.
  Somebody somewhere must be doing something wrong - my mechanic is an old
 German who has been working on Mercedes for over fifty years. His
  knowledge of the car is great. Just looking for some comments at to bad
 luck, normal, and maybe I should just brace for more of the same. Comments,
  please. Thanks.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Mitch Haley]

Max Dillon wrote:

Three compressors in 8 years is extreme, are you replacing the oil? Using the 
correct oil?


More importantly, is this a Nippondenso compressor, or is it an upside down 
Harrison? The Harrisons for MB are a special design that's meant to be inverted. 
 Most of the rebuilt Harrisons are wrong for MB.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD A/C

[Jim Cathey]

I don't know what Jim might have done other than resolder the PB 
units, but if that's all you need, I can do it for cheap.


That was mostly it.  Electrolytic caps sometimes, or the odd smoked
H-drive transistor.  90%+ was just solder.

Wasn't much of a business, just beer money while I looked for work.
Only ever had about 10 customers, total.  Hell, I think I've fixed
more of my own units than that!

  I've done it a bunch of times and have all the necessary hardware. 
 I have documented the teardown process on my web site for a while.  I 
don't have any means of testing the units,


That's actually pretty easy to put together, all you need is one of
each of the components courtesy of the U-Pull.  And a signal generator,
and a power supply, and maybe a vacuum source if you're working on ones
that old.  An oscilloscope is pretty handy, too.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[John Reames]

I'll second that thought.

Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of the 
expected DC voltage? (I would also expect that it would kill batteries)


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Home: +14106646986
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On Nov 29, 2010, at 11:02, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 Something new, at least for me, when I turn the key to the off position and 
 remove the key, the battery light comes on and stays on until battery is 
 dead.
 
 One or more bad diodes in the alternator?
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[Mike Gildea]

I'll second that thought.

Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of the 
expected DC voltage? (I would also expect that it would kill batteries)


If you had a o`scope, you would be able to see the ac and dc waveforms, but 
a multimeter will just average the readings.  A small amount of AC (ripple) 
is normal and hurts nothing.  Larger amounts indicate bad diodes.  There are 
a lot of large diodes in a altenator.  Just one shorted out can cause a 
battery drain.
AC is only present when alternator is rotating.  When rotating AC is 
converted to DC by the diode bank.  The voltage regulator then clips the 
high voltage down to aroud 14 volts. 



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[Jim Cathey]

Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of 
the expected DC voltage?


I'd expect so, but I've never had a scope available at the
same time as a bad alternator to prove this out.  In theory
the AC ripple voltage would be higher too so that you could
use a decent multimeter (like a Fluke) to diagnose this,
but I've no proof, nor an idea of the magnitude of difference.
The frequency of the ripple ought to measure differently, too.
(Again, on a Fluke.)  Be the first to document a case, and
win our undying gratitude!

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[John Reames]

Umm I thought that most VOM/DVM's had a capacitor in series with the input... 
This ensures that only the ac component is measured.

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jwrea...@comcast.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Nov 30, 2010, at 8:57, Mike Gildea mikgi...@verizon.net wrote:

 
 
 I'll second that thought.
 
 Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of the 
 expected DC voltage? (I would also expect that it would kill batteries)
 
 If you had a o`scope, you would be able to see the ac and dc waveforms, but a 
 multimeter will just average the readings.  A small amount of AC (ripple) is 
 normal and hurts nothing.  Larger amounts indicate bad diodes.  There are a 
 lot of large diodes in a altenator.  Just one shorted out can cause a battery 
 drain.
 AC is only present when alternator is rotating.  When rotating AC is 
 converted to DC by the diode bank.  The voltage regulator then clips the high 
 voltage down to aroud 14 volts. 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[Mike Gildea]

Umm I thought that most VOM/DVM's had a capacitor in series with the 
input... This ensures that only the ac component is measured.


True, to a point.  Don`t expect much from a Harbor Freight type of meter. 
Depends on the quality (price) of the multimeter (DVM/VOM).   More expensive 
meters do a better job.  But for automotive use, were are primarly stuck 
with the cheaper units. Very little AC involved. Cheaper and older units use 
averaging counting methods as opposed to the more sophisticated sampling 
methods.  They average highs and lows without displaying the deviation.  You 
don`t know when there has been a dip or a spike .   Peak/hold meters (higher 
end more expensive meters) capture and hold and then display the 
highest/lowest reading, instead of averaging.  They can be programmed for 
specific hi and low variations.  Some even have print outs over a specified 
time period.  (ie power line monitors) This works well for capturing digital 
pulses, spikes, circuit loading.  Fluke, as you are probably aware of, 
makes both high quality and mid quality units.  A few low end units.  One of 
their models is made for auto technicians.  Most of their models are 
designed for touchy computer circuits.  They also have one sweet digital 
display unit that gives digital readouts and also shows waveforms in a 
compact handheld  device.   Kind of like a handheld digital o`scope.  Nice, 
but very very pricey. 



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[OK Don]

One of the MB manual CDs includes o'scope shots of various wave forms that
let you differentiate between the two diode sets - peaks up or down - to
isolate which ones are bad. I think I saw it in the 124 set.

On Tue, Nov 30, 2010 at 8:11 AM, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

  Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of the
 expected DC voltage?


 I'd expect so, but I've never had a scope available at the
 same time as a bad alternator to prove this out.  In theory
 the AC ripple voltage would be higher too so that you could
 use a decent multimeter (like a Fluke) to diagnose this,
 but I've no proof, nor an idea of the magnitude of difference.
 The frequency of the ripple ought to measure differently, too.
 (Again, on a Fluke.)  Be the first to document a case, and
 win our undying gratitude!


 -- Jim--


OK Don
2001 ML320
1992 300D 2.5T
1990 300D 2.5T
1997 Plymouth Grand Voyager
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[John Reames]

The frequency of the ripple should be calculably related to engine rpm 
(consider pulley diameters...) iirc some manufacturers used an AC output from 
an alternator as a tach sensor...

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On Nov 30, 2010, at 9:11, Jim Cathey j...@windwireless.net wrote:

 Would that also manifest itself as a measurable AC waveform on top of the 
 expected DC voltage?
 
 I'd expect so, but I've never had a scope available at the
 same time as a bad alternator to prove this out.  In theory
 the AC ripple voltage would be higher too so that you could
 use a decent multimeter (like a Fluke) to diagnose this,
 but I've no proof, nor an idea of the magnitude of difference.
 The frequency of the ripple ought to measure differently, too.
 (Again, on a Fluke.)  Be the first to document a case, and
 win our undying gratitude!
 
 -- Jim
 
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[John Reames]

Yeah the scopemeters are neat. The 87/89 and (slightly upgraded) renumbered 
brethren (189) can simultaneously display an ac voltage and it's measured dc 
offset. It can also do duty cycle...

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On Nov 30, 2010, at 11:27, Mike Gildea mikgi...@verizon.net wrote:

 Umm I thought that most VOM/DVM's had a capacitor in series with the 
 input... This ensures that only the ac component is measured.
 
 True, to a point.  Don`t expect much from a Harbor Freight type of meter. 
 Depends on the quality (price) of the multimeter (DVM/VOM).   More expensive 
 meters do a better job.  But for automotive use, were are primarly stuck with 
 the cheaper units. Very little AC involved. Cheaper and older units use 
 averaging counting methods as opposed to the more sophisticated sampling 
 methods.  They average highs and lows without displaying the deviation.  You 
 don`t know when there has been a dip or a spike .   Peak/hold meters (higher 
 end more expensive meters) capture and hold and then display the 
 highest/lowest reading, instead of averaging.  They can be programmed for 
 specific hi and low variations.  Some even have print outs over a specified 
 time period.  (ie power line monitors) This works well for capturing digital 
 pulses, spikes, circuit loading.  Fluke, as you are probably aware of, makes 
 both high quality and mid quality units.  A few low end units.  One of their 
 models is made for auto technicians.  Most of their models are designed for 
 touchy computer circuits.  They also have one sweet digital display unit that 
 gives digital readouts and also shows waveforms in a compact handheld  
 device.   Kind of like a handheld digital o`scope.  Nice, but very very 
 pricey. 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[Mike Gildea]

- Original Message - 
From: OK Don okd...@gmail.com

One of the MB manual CDs includes o'scope shots of various wave forms that
let you differentiate between the two diode sets - peaks up or down - to
isolate which ones are bad. I think I saw it in the 124 set.

_okiebenz.com

Years ago there was a article in the star magazine about adapting a old 
suplus CRT
type O scope for use on the Benzes electrical and ignition,  It was 
intresting

reading.  Old analog scopes can be found cheap now days.
I`ve played with my vintage Heathkit Auto analyzer scope on old delco 
alternators but never on the benzes.
But alternators are very much alike in principle and theory.  Not much use 
on a D or SD.
Now i just use it on the old Beemer motorcycle or boat engine.  No more cars 
with
ignition systems.  My heathkit manuals have a lot of photos of the wave 
froms and
explain them in great detail (point ignition systems prior to Hall Effect 
and HEI ignitions).




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[MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[John P. English]

Something new, at least for me, when I turn the key to the off position and 
remove the key, the battery light comes on and stays on until battery is dead.

If any of you guys or dolls have any thoughts as to what might be causing this 
situation, your thoughts would be most appreciated.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[Peter Hertzing]

I really don't have a clue - but I would start by disconecting the Alt and
seeing if the light goes out.  How long does it take to kill the battery?

Peter

On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 9:09 AM, John P. English
johnpengl...@hotmail.comwrote:

 Something new, at least for me, when I turn the key to the off position and
 remove the key, the battery light comes on and stays on until battery is
 dead.

 If any of you guys or dolls have any thoughts as to what might be causing
 this situation, your thoughts would be most appreciated.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[John P. English]

Peter, I takes about 24 hrs.

--
From: Peter Hertzing phertz...@gmail.com
Sent: Monday, November 29, 2010 9:12 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem


I really don't have a clue - but I would start by disconecting the Alt and
seeing if the light goes out.  How long does it take to kill the battery?

Peter

On Mon, Nov 29, 2010 at 9:09 AM, John P. English
johnpengl...@hotmail.comwrote:

Something new, at least for me, when I turn the key to the off position 
and

remove the key, the battery light comes on and stays on until battery is
dead.

If any of you guys or dolls have any thoughts as to what might be causing
this situation, your thoughts would be most appreciated.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[Mike Gildea]

Something new, at least for me, when I turn the key to the off position 
and remove the key, the battery light comes on and stays on until battery 
is dead.


If any of you guys or dolls have any thoughts as to what might be causing 
this situation, your thoughts would be most appreciated.


Check altenator diodes, windings, brushes, alt wiring harness


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD new problem

[Jim Cathey]

Something new, at least for me, when I turn the key to the off 
position and remove the key, the battery light comes on and stays on 
until battery is dead.


One or more bad diodes in the alternator?

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Front Seats

[Rich Thomas]

There are 2 screws in the bottom of the back plastic panel, remove those 
and the panel will come off, you can then get at the nut holding the 
armrest on.  Keep track of the bits so when you put it back it works 
correctly.


I got a couple of seats out of a junker, no idea if they motor or not, 
but they seemed in half decent shape and were pretty cheap.  I have them 
in the garage for spares.  Getting the driver's out was a bugger, the 
aft inside bolt was rusted and would not come off.  Not particularly 
easy to do in the junkyard with limited tools.


--R

On 6/21/2010 10:49 PM, Jim Cathey wrote:



Can the arm rest be moved?


Generally, yes.



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Front Seats

[George Larribeau]

If I still lived in San Francisco the condition of the seats might be 
different (and most likely would not care about maintaining the AC or 
getting R12 at the crack house ..or its ebay equivalent ) The 100 plus 
summer days is a killer. the car lives outside in the sun. I drive it 
about 60 miles a day for work. I have kept its appearance respectable. I 
maintain it. It had 160K when I got it, It currently has 250K. I plan on 
at leas another 100K.


My original plan was the seat covers ...
The passenger seat might be saved by this, very likely would also need 
the seat frame..


The drivers seat is another story
Needs the seat frame (springs), the power unit is somehow damaged (a 
size large tire shop employee ran it into the stops, it sort of 
recovered, then I had some paint work and it never went forward again, 
with out getting out of the car and pushing forcefully wile the switch 
is engaged It clicks like slipping rears or something.
and (on the drivers seat), I seriously doubt if I took it apart, I would 
ever get a new cover over the old foam ...if the old foam did not denigrate


Now it the power unit is savable, new padding and foam would be rather 
difficult , right??


Now as to other years and models of the 126 car, (the BMW / other seat 
is the worst case back up plan). What is interchangeable with these 
seats (from the 126 cars)?

can a passenger seat be use as a drivers? or are they different?
Can the arm rest be moved?
Is the rear cushion guts(pading) ( from a different year 126 passenger 
seat) usable in my drivers seat,  ?


I don't need the memory feature but need the basic power to work ( be 
adjustable).


George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas



Jim Cathey wrote:

The Front seats in my 300SD are past repair ...(trust me on this)
the Texas summers have killed them and the drivers seat has bad power 
motor (striped gear?)


You could consider re-covering them, Rusty sells the covers.
The gears may not be stripped, sometimes the cables pull out
of their sockets.  I'm not up on which models interchange.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Front Seats

[Jim Cathey]

It clicks like slipping rears or something.


Exactly.  There are little cables that pull out of their
sockets, disconnecting the gear.

and (on the drivers seat), I seriously doubt if I took it apart, I 
would ever get a new cover over the old foam ...if the old foam did 
not denigrate


Foam?  Every MB seat I've dealt with has been springs, a bit of
horsehair (?) pad for shape, and the cover.

Now it the power unit is savable, new padding and foam would be rather 
difficult , right??


Not that bad.  Did my SL on one weekend.


What is interchangeable with these seats (from the 126 cars)?


Mechanically I think that anything 126 will fit.  (Not coupe.)
It's the electrical seat connections that varied a bit over
the years.


can a passenger seat be use as a drivers? or are they different?


Side-swapping is very common.


Can the arm rest be moved?


Generally, yes.

Is the rear cushion guts(pading) ( from a different year 126 passenger 
seat) usable in my drivers seat,  ?


Should be.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] 1985 300SD Front Seats

[George Larribeau]

The Front seats in my 300SD are past repair ...(trust me on this)
the Texas summers have killed them and the drivers seat has bad power 
motor (striped gear?)


The car has the power seats with 2 memory buttons on the drivers side 
and no memory on the passenger side.

I have never used the memory feature and it is not required.

What other 126 series seats can I use (retrofit into this car)
Suggestions ? can a non memory seat be wired in, or one with more memory 
settings?
I do not care if the memory setings work of not, just can my door 
switches can be wired (jury rigged?)


I am also considering other seat options ... do ant non power MB seats 
fit ..


I have also looked at using BMW 3 series power seats, the switches are 
integrated into the seats, would need to supply power and fabricate 
mounting brackets ...


Has any one successfully done anything like this ???

George Larribeau
Dallas, TX





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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Front Seats

[Jim Cathey]

The Front seats in my 300SD are past repair ...(trust me on this)
the Texas summers have killed them and the drivers seat has bad power 
motor (striped gear?)


You could consider re-covering them, Rusty sells the covers.
The gears may not be stripped, sometimes the cables pull out
of their sockets.  I'm not up on which models interchange.

-- Jim



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Front Seats

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Sat, Jun 19, 2010 at 9:53 AM, George Larribeau gu...@airmail.net wrote:


 I have also looked at using BMW 3 series power seats, the switches are
 integrated into the seats, would need to supply power and fabricate mounting
 brackets ...


That sounds like a perfectly workable option if you are not particularly
interested in originality, if you have access to the new seats, and if they
will fit in the car in a way that makes for a comfortable driving position.
Hot rodders do it all the time (not just with BMW seats, I mean, but
swapping seats from car X into car Y).  Just be sure, in the interests of
crash safety, that you make the brackets out of good quality steel and use
high-grade hardware to hold it all together (i.e. not hardware-store bolts).

Alex
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD ABS unit .

[George Larribeau]

I been having some problems with my ABS controller,, the warning light comes on 
once and a while .
I know that when I bought the car the unit was available on Rusty's Web site 
for a not insane price, (Rebuilt?) however it is no longer listed and the 
current price is 1.9K$ (verbal from Tom). Any one know of a rebuilder ???


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD ABS unit .

[tyler]

Get a junkyard unit.

Also- if the warning light comes on, it could be the wheel speed 
sensors, and not the ABS unit itself.


Tyler

George Larribeau wrote:

I been having some problems with my ABS controller,, the warning light comes on 
once and a while .
I know that when I bought the car the unit was available on Rusty's Web site 
for a not insane price, (Rebuilt?) however it is no longer listed and the 
current price is 1.9K$ (verbal from Tom). Any one know of a rebuilder ???


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
  


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD ABS unit .

[George Larribeau]

Get a junkyard unit.


That thought has crossed my mind ...
Does any one know what the latest car (newest) that would fit ?
Am I correct in thinking that a gasser would work as long as it did not have 
traction control ??


I world prefer to find a rebuilder or a shop that services them ...



Also- if the warning light comes on, it could be the wheel speed sensors, 
and not the ABS unit itself.


Tyler


I think the sensors are OK ...but I will have a more detailed look,
The problem is intermittent ...


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas 



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[MBZ] 1985 300SD ABS unit .

[George Larribeau]

I been having some problems with my ABS controller,, the warning light comes on 
once and a while .

I know that when I bought the car the unit was available on Rusty's Web site 
for a not insane price, (Rebuilt?) however it is no longer listed and the 
current price is 1.9K$ (verbal from Tom). Any one know of a rebuilder ???


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD ABS unit .

[Craig McCluskey]

On Wed, 18 Mar 2009 13:48:13 -0500 George Larribeau
30...@excusesrus.com wrote:


 I think the sensors are OK ...but I will have a more detailed look,
 The problem is intermittent ...

Then it sounds like wiring or connectors.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD ABS unit .

[Jim Cathey]

I been having some problems with my ABS controller,, the warning light 
comes on once and a while .


Could it be the overvoltage protection relay?  The ABS (and airbags)
are powered through it, so if it flakes out the lights go on.

-- Jim



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[MBZ] 1985 300SD Electric Antenna ..

[George Larribeau]

Well it is stuck in the down position. Radio does out put the signal Hot when 
radio on on the terminal that has the single black wire plugged into (the 
radio) near the 4 conductor plug.. Is there any good trouble shooting 
procedures / recommendations?  I did not see any thing around the excellent 
Jim Cathey ACC check list. Is there a way to check out / work on the unit 
(antenna)? The procedure for removing the mast has the antenna extended. Can it 
be taken apart with it retracted?? What electrical tests should I perform? (The 
trunk light is functioning.)



George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Stater interment

[Fmiser]

It seems than at Fri, 22 Aug 2008 20:57:56 -0500, George wrote:

  Sometimes when I try to start my 300SD it does nothing, not
 even a click. When it happens If I try a few times it will
 start. At first I was convinced that is was the ignition
 switch because I never hear a click ( would think I could here
 the solenoid).

Don't forget about the neutral safety switch!

And the glow plug relay may click and confuse you.

-- Philip

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[MBZ] 1985 300SD Stater interment

[George Larribeau]

 Sometimes when I try to start my 300SD it does nothing, not even a
click. When it happens If I try a few times it will start. At first I
was convinced that is was the ignition switch because I never hear a
click ( would think I could here the solenoid). And it always seamed
that when it did this it would respond if I twisted the key on the next
attempt than the previous one. However the last time this happened I
could swear I herd  click when I release the key on the first attempt.
When it did not start. Normally I don't here a sound. Of course it has
never persisted long enough to get a meter on the starter solenoid
terminal.It has done it long enough one would think if it was the
brushes going out it would have died by now ..


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Stater interment

[Wonko the Sane]

Order a starter from Rusty. Don't go NAPA, as I did once / never again -- I
went thru five bad NAPA rebuilt ones before Rusty sent me one that
actually worked longer than a week. A year later, Rusty's is still starting
the car.

There isn't much in the wiring diagram between the key and the starter.

On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 8:57 PM, George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:

  Sometimes when I try to start my 300SD it does nothing, not even a
 click. When it happens If I try a few times it will start. At first I
 was convinced that is was the ignition switch because I never hear a
 click ( would think I could here the solenoid). And it always seamed
 that when it did this it would respond if I twisted the key on the next
 attempt than the previous one. However the last time this happened I
 could swear I herd  click when I release the key on the first attempt.
 When it did not start. Normally I don't here a sound. Of course it has
 never persisted long enough to get a meter on the starter solenoid
 terminal.It has done it long enough one would think if it was the
 brushes going out it would have died by now ..


 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


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http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Stater interment

[George Larribeau]

If it is the starter I have a shop that repairs them here in dallas. You
get your unit back.I know the guy and have had good luck with him. Been
about 10 years however ..
We shall see.. 

I would not go to the local parts seller on that ...
Just still wonder if it is something else ...
I might put a test wire on it and keep a meter in the car to see if I
can catch it in the act ..







On Fri, 2008-08-22 at 21:18 -0500, Wonko the Sane wrote:
 Order a starter from Rusty. Don't go NAPA, as I did once / never again -- I
 went thru five bad NAPA rebuilt ones before Rusty sent me one that
 actually worked longer than a week. A year later, Rusty's is still starting
 the car.
 
 There isn't much in the wiring diagram between the key and the starter.
 
 On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 8:57 PM, George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED]wrote:
 
   Sometimes when I try to start my 300SD it does nothing, not even a
  click. When it happens If I try a few times it will start. At first I
  was convinced that is was the ignition switch because I never hear a
  click ( would think I could here the solenoid). And it always seamed
  that when it did this it would respond if I twisted the key on the next
  attempt than the previous one. However the last time this happened I
  could swear I herd  click when I release the key on the first attempt.
  When it did not start. Normally I don't here a sound. Of course it has
  never persisted long enough to get a meter on the starter solenoid
  terminal.It has done it long enough one would think if it was the
  brushes going out it would have died by now ..
 
 
  George Larribeau
  Dallas Texas
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Stater interment

[OK Don]

They can be intermittent for a year or longer, then finally just
refuse to turn. Two options are to pound on the starter via a length
of wood and a hammer, or using one of the manual starter switches
(sold for turning the engine while you're adjusting valves, etc.) that
clamp onto the solenoid terminals to see what's happening.

It has done it long enough one would think if it was the
 brushes going out it would have died by now ..


 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas

-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli, popularized by Mark Twain
'90 300D (Rattled), '92 300D (Saber), ' '81 240D (Gramps), '97 Ply
Grand Voyager (Vincent van-go)

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Stater interment

[Luther]

Quick and dirty starter test.  Open the door so the dome light is on, 
try to start car and watch the dome light.  If it does NOT dim, then the 
problem is at the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch.  Next 
time it happens, try wiggling the gear shift or placing it in neutral.  
You might need to adjust the shift linkage, NSS, or install a new NSS.
If the dome light does dim, then first check your battery (probably not 
the case here, since it will start later), and then check to see if the 
starter is in a bad position, seized, or has a bad solenoid.  Sometimes 
bumping the car forward or backward while in gear will move it into a 
better position.

Does this help?

Luther

George Larribeau wrote:
  Sometimes when I try to start my 300SD it does nothing, not even a
 click. When it happens If I try a few times it will start. At first I
 was convinced that is was the ignition switch because I never hear a
 click ( would think I could here the solenoid). And it always seamed
 that when it did this it would respond if I twisted the key on the next
 attempt than the previous one. However the last time this happened I
 could swear I herd  click when I release the key on the first attempt.
 When it did not start. Normally I don't here a sound. Of course it has
 never persisted long enough to get a meter on the starter solenoid
 terminal.It has done it long enough one would think if it was the
 brushes going out it would have died by now ..


 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Stater interment

[Wonko the Sane]

That is flight-ops-normal for my 240D. I don't even try PARK any more -- I
pre-glow then drag the lever to NEUTRAL. Turn the key and drive away.

On Fri, Aug 22, 2008 at 9:49 PM, Luther [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 try wiggling the gear shift or placing it in neutral.




-- 
LT Don
http://don.homelinux.net/~don/

apt-get update
apt-get upgrade
The following packages will be replaced
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Starter intermittent

[Jim Cathey]

 There isn't much in the wiring diagram between the key and the starter.

Just the ol' neutral safety switch.  That and the big cables
and the battery, there aren't too many things to diagnose and
a voltmeter, correctly applied, will tell you everything you
need to know whom to blame.

-- Jim


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[MBZ] 1985 300SD AC - Repair (Screw up?)

[George Larribeau]

The Good News. It gets cold.

The bad news, uses lots of power and makes freighting noises. Compressor, line 
that attaches to compress or and dryer were replaced. System was evacuated for 
1.5 hours with a ½ HP 2stage vacuum pump.

There was basically no Freon left in the system when the repair was started and 
there was not any oil recovered from the old compressor (held it upside down 
and maybe 2 drops). 

The first time I hung the new compressor I filled it with 170 CC oil but it 
poured out when I tried to install it. I captured the oil and measured it at 
about 120 CC loss and after I got it installed I put 120 CC into the low side 
hose. I evacuated the system, held vacuum but when I charged it the compressor 
seal failed immediately. That is when I got the right seals fro Rusty got it re 
connected. When I replaced the dryer at this point I put about 60 CC oil in the 
dryer and another 120 CC or so in the low side compressor hose. Re-evacuated 
system 1.5 Hr and charged it with about 2.7 cans of Freon. I was convinced that 
I lost the oil when the Freon leak out the first time (less that ½ can involved 
here, it did hold a vacuum I believed that it was sealed) . I got the Idea to 
put the extra oil in it some where ( bad advice?).

When the weather cools off (or it dies) I am going to remove the Freon (I have 
a slightly tired but useable recovery unit) and replace the expansion valve, 
the drier (again) and this time attempt to flush the system. Has any one ever 
used the aerosol flush Super Cool air conditioning flush with hose?



George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 237K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[George Larribeau]

It installed with the green and brass seals. Short spacer would no go
in. would just rattle lose in port could cause trouble. Got it working
but ..Maby used too much oil. Does get cold but takes serious power to
operate and makes frightening noises...bummer.

GL 

On Fri, 2008-08-08 at 15:56 -0500, George Larribeau wrote:
 It's the Delphi Compressor with the stepped ports. Rusty found in his system 
 directions that state. Large brass seal only for suction port. Green Seal 
 for discharge port. Short Spacer centers green seal on discharge port. All 
 other seals and spacers are not used for Mercedes applications. I ordered 
 another installation kit from Rusty. Turns out to be the same as the parts 
 that I had. Just did not have any directions. (The compressor and the new 
 kit's directions do not have this information in them.) I will try it out 
 this weekend. The only thing left is that the short spacer is stepped, 
 hopefully it becomes obvious when I have it apart with all the pieces in my 
 hand .I bet the oil all pours out again . hassle putting it in ..
 
 
 
 
 
 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 - Original Message - 
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 12:03 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..
 
 
 
  In a message dated 8/4/2008 9:04:38 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
  [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
  The  compressor is an R4, just has larger ports that the orginal and the
  manafold jost wont index correctly ..
 
 
 
  The metal sealing rings come in two different diameters,  as well as 
  several
  different thickness'.  Have you tried both  diameters?
 
  Jim  Friesen
  Phoenix AZ
  79 300SD, 265 K miles
  98 ML 320, 157 K miles
  94  Bravada, 190 K miles
 
 
 
 
  **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
  budget?
  Read reviews on AOL Autos.
  (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517
   
   )
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[George Larribeau]

It's the Delphi Compressor with the stepped ports. Rusty found in his system 
directions that state. Large brass seal only for suction port. Green Seal 
for discharge port. Short Spacer centers green seal on discharge port. All 
other seals and spacers are not used for Mercedes applications. I ordered 
another installation kit from Rusty. Turns out to be the same as the parts 
that I had. Just did not have any directions. (The compressor and the new 
kit's directions do not have this information in them.) I will try it out 
this weekend. The only thing left is that the short spacer is stepped, 
hopefully it becomes obvious when I have it apart with all the pieces in my 
hand .I bet the oil all pours out again . hassle putting it in ..





George Larribeau
Dallas Texas







- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..



 In a message dated 8/4/2008 9:04:38 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 The  compressor is an R4, just has larger ports that the orginal and the
 manafold jost wont index correctly ..



 The metal sealing rings come in two different diameters,  as well as 
 several
 different thickness'.  Have you tried both  diameters?

 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 265 K miles
 98 ML 320, 157 K miles
 94  Bravada, 190 K miles




 **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
 budget?
 Read reviews on AOL Autos.
 (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517
  
  )
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Peter Frederick]

Those are the Nippondenso compressors used in the W126, W210, and  
W124 chassis cars (and maybe others).  You will need to change the  
rear housing usually, as most applications did not use a speed  
sensor, but unless the bearings went really bad, the speed sensor is  
fine, and it's replaceable.  On examples without one, though, the  
casting is solid.

Peter

On Aug 6, 2008, at 6:01 PM, Rich Thomas wrote:

 I vaguely recall someone at some point in the past saying that readily
 available (junkyard) compressors from some Japanese cars would fit the
 Benz just fine.  Maybe not that model?

 --R

 Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On Wed, Aug 6, 2008 at 3:08 PM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts- 
 Accessories__Mercedes-GM-R4-to-Sanden-Compressor-Upgrade-NEW- 
 CD_W0QQitemZ230277661873QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20Acce 
 ssoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem? 
 hash=item230277661873_trkparms=39%3A1|65% 
 3A1_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1318




 Why would you want to?  The R4 may not be the most reliable
 compressor, but it's cheap and readily available both used and new
 since it was OE on everyone and their uncle's Chevy.

 A cheap replacement for the Nippondenso on the 124... now that would
 be something to get excited about.

 Alex Chamberlain

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[JFreezn]

 
In a message dated 8/4/2008 9:04:38 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  compressor is an R4, just has larger ports that the orginal and the  
manafold jost wont index correctly ..



The metal sealing rings come in two different diameters,  as well as several 
different thickness'.  Have you tried both  diameters?   

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 265 K miles 
98 ML 320, 157 K miles
94  Bravada, 190 K miles




**Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.  
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 
)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Trampas]

I just went to Autozone got a compressor for a 1985 Chevy 1500 pickup and
then clocked the manifold and put it on. Worked great. 

Trampas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:03 PM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

 
In a message dated 8/4/2008 9:04:38 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

The  compressor is an R4, just has larger ports that the orginal and the  
manafold jost wont index correctly ..



The metal sealing rings come in two different diameters,  as well as several

different thickness'.  Have you tried both  diameters?   

Jim  Friesen
Phoenix AZ
79 300SD, 265 K miles 
98 ML 320, 157 K miles
94  Bravada, 190 K miles




**Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.  
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0005000
017 )
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Rolf]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Mercedes-GM-R4-to-Sanden-Compressor-Upgrade-NEW-CD_W0QQitemZ230277661873QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230277661873_trkparms=39%3A1|65%3A1_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1318


Anyone try this yet?

-Rolf

Trampas wrote:
 I just went to Autozone got a compressor for a 1985 Chevy 1500 pickup and
 then clocked the manifold and put it on. Worked great. 

 Trampas

 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:03 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

  
 In a message dated 8/4/2008 9:04:38 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 The  compressor is an R4, just has larger ports that the orginal and the  
 manafold jost wont index correctly ..



 The metal sealing rings come in two different diameters,  as well as several

 different thickness'.  Have you tried both  diameters?   

 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 265 K miles 
 98 ML 320, 157 K miles
 94  Bravada, 190 K miles




 **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
 Read reviews on AOL Autos.  
 (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0005000
 017 )
 ___
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 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Mitch Haley]

Trampas wrote:
 I just went to Autozone got a compressor for a 1985 Chevy 1500 pickup and
 then clocked the manifold and put it on. Worked great. 

For how long?
Isn't the R4 the compressor that needs to be set up to run upside down without 
suffering from lube failure?

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Wed, Aug 6, 2008 at 3:08 PM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Mercedes-GM-R4-to-Sanden-Compressor-Upgrade-NEW-CD_W0QQitemZ230277661873QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230277661873_trkparms=39%3A1|65%3A1_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1318



Why would you want to?  The R4 may not be the most reliable
compressor, but it's cheap and readily available both used and new
since it was OE on everyone and their uncle's Chevy.

A cheap replacement for the Nippondenso on the 124... now that would
be something to get excited about.

Alex Chamberlain

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Rich Thomas]

I vaguely recall someone at some point in the past saying that readily 
available (junkyard) compressors from some Japanese cars would fit the 
Benz just fine.  Maybe not that model?

--R

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On Wed, Aug 6, 2008 at 3:08 PM, Rolf [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Truck-Parts-Accessories__Mercedes-GM-R4-to-Sanden-Compressor-Upgrade-NEW-CD_W0QQitemZ230277661873QQadnZCarQ20Q26Q20TruckQ20PartsQ20Q26Q20AccessoriesQQadiZ2865QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item230277661873_trkparms=39%3A1|65%3A1_trksid=p4506.c0.m245.l1318


 

 Why would you want to?  The R4 may not be the most reliable
 compressor, but it's cheap and readily available both used and new
 since it was OE on everyone and their uncle's Chevy.

 A cheap replacement for the Nippondenso on the 124... now that would
 be something to get excited about.

 Alex Chamberlain

 ___
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Wont last very long though.  The specific ones for MB are turned 
different so they will lubricate with oil.  While the other ones will 
fit and work, it wont work for long because it will starve of oil.

Trampas wrote:
 I just went to Autozone got a compressor for a 1985 Chevy 1500 pickup and
 then clocked the manifold and put it on. Worked great. 
 
 Trampas
 
 -Original Message-
 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
 On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 Sent: Wednesday, August 06, 2008 1:03 PM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..
 
  
 In a message dated 8/4/2008 9:04:38 A.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
 
 The  compressor is an R4, just has larger ports that the orginal and the  
 manafold jost wont index correctly ..
 
 
 
 The metal sealing rings come in two different diameters,  as well as several
 
 different thickness'.  Have you tried both  diameters?   
 
 Jim  Friesen
 Phoenix AZ
 79 300SD, 265 K miles 
 98 ML 320, 157 K miles
 94  Bravada, 190 K miles
 
 
 
 
 **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
 Read reviews on AOL Autos.  
 (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut0005000
 017 )
 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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 No virus found in this incoming message.
 Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
 Version: 8.0.138 / Virus Database: 270.5.12/1596 - Release Date: 8/6/2008 
 4:55 PM
 
 
 

-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic, 91 300D, 91 300E, 89 560SEL,
  87 300SDL x2, 86 560SL, 86 300E, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 80 240D, 76 240D,
  76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250, 66 220SEb
http://www.okiebenz.com

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Jim Cathey]

 I vaguely recall someone at some point in the past saying that readily
 available (junkyard) compressors from some Japanese cars would fit the
 Benz just fine.  Maybe not that model?

Some Camrys, and perhaps some others, use the 10PA series.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Loren Faeth]

Yep, I think it was in 2006 I posted to the list the model I found an 
appropriate compressor on, and how I swapped clutches and made it 
work on my SDL.  I guess I could re-post it if anyone wants to beg in 
place of finding it in the archives, if they are working again.

At 10:46 PM 8/6/2008, you wrote:
  I vaguely recall someone at some point in the past saying that readily
  available (junkyard) compressors from some Japanese cars would fit the
  Benz just fine.  Maybe not that model?

Some Camrys, and perhaps some others, use the 10PA series.

-- Jim


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Loren Faeth 


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[JFreezn]

 
George,
 
So does Rusty say the R5 is a direct replacement for the R4, which I  believe 
your car uses?  I googled R5 and I have to admit, I never heard of  one.
 
Jim in Phoenix
 
 
In a message dated 8/3/2008 8:10:02 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,  
[EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

Well I  finally got to repairing my AC in my SD. I replaced the
Compressor and the  hose the connects to the compressor. I bought the
parts a while ago .. (  before my accident, I am now almost able to do
stuff again). The poets on  the new compressor (GM R5 type) are
noticeably different than the old one.  Had a fully machined grove for
the o-rings. The new one has just a 'step'  and this makes the ports
larger. It came with a number of different sealing  washers and some
instructions that do not apply to this application. Rusty  included
another set of sealing washers. The problem apperas to be  that  the
ports are to large for the AC line to locate, to much slop.  Any one know
the fix for this .??







**Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your budget? 
Read reviews on AOL Autos.  
(http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517 
)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[George Larribeau]

BAD TYPO MY FAULT ...
The compressor is an R4, just has larger ports that the orginal and the 
manafold jost wont index correctly ..




- Original Message - 
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 1:02 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..



 George,

 So does Rusty say the R5 is a direct replacement for the R4, which I 
 believe
 your car uses?  I googled R5 and I have to admit, I never heard of  one.

 Jim in Phoenix


 In a message dated 8/3/2008 8:10:02 P.M. US Mountain Standard Time,
 [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:

 Well I  finally got to repairing my AC in my SD. I replaced the
 Compressor and the  hose the connects to the compressor. I bought the
 parts a while ago .. (  before my accident, I am now almost able to do
 stuff again). The poets on  the new compressor (GM R5 type) are
 noticeably different than the old one.  Had a fully machined grove for
 the o-rings. The new one has just a 'step'  and this makes the ports
 larger. It came with a number of different sealing  washers and some
 instructions that do not apply to this application. Rusty  included
 another set of sealing washers. The problem apperas to be  that  the
 ports are to large for the AC line to locate, to much slop.  Any one know
 the fix for this .??







 **Looking for a car that's sporty, fun and fits in your 
 budget?
 Read reviews on AOL Autos.
 (http://autos.aol.com/cars-BMW-128-2008/expert-review?ncid=aolaut000517
  
  )
 ___
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[George Larribeau]

Well I finally got to repairing my AC in my SD. I replaced the
Compressor and the hose the connects to the compressor. I bought the
parts a while ago .. ( before my accident, I am now almost able to do
stuff again). The poets on the new compressor (GM R5 type) are
noticeably different than the old one. Had a fully machined grove for
the o-rings. The new one has just a 'step' and this makes the ports
larger. It came with a number of different sealing washers and some
instructions that do not apply to this application. Rusty included
another set of sealing washers. The problem apperas to be that  the
ports are to large for the AC line to locate, to much slop. Any one know
the fix for this .??




George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 230K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD - AC - Compressor replacement ..

[Peter Frederick]

Can you swap the manifold from the old compressor to the new one?   
Often that is the only part that's different.

Peter

On Aug 3, 2008, at 10:09 PM, George Larribeau wrote:

 Well I finally got to repairing my AC in my SD. I replaced the
 Compressor and the hose the connects to the compressor. I bought the
 parts a while ago .. ( before my accident, I am now almost able to do
 stuff again). The poets on the new compressor (GM R5 type) are
 noticeably different than the old one. Had a fully machined grove for
 the o-rings. The new one has just a 'step' and this makes the ports
 larger. It came with a number of different sealing washers and some
 instructions that do not apply to this application. Rusty included
 another set of sealing washers. The problem apperas to be that  the
 ports are to large for the AC line to locate, to much slop. Any one  
 know
 the fix for this .??



 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


 1985 300SD 230K
 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
  Ugly,but runs)


 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)


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[MBZ] 1985 300SD Replaced Brake lines and bled bra kes .

[George Larribeau]

Built a pressure bleeder from a bug sprayer. Wound up using one that was about 
1.5 Gallon. Wanted to build a smaller one but the only smaller bug sprayer that 
I liken that I could find was from ACE hard ware and was to opaque of a plastic 
for me ( to hard to see the fluid level in it. I fabricated a top with a hose 
fitting out of a stock top drilling a hole for a 1/8 NPT nipple and used a 
o-ring with a custom fabricated washer that sealed up on the inside molded 
concentric ring on the underside of the cap .I was warned that when I 
pressurized it that the seals between the master cylinder and the tang might 
leak and a had a set of the seals standing by. How I was surprised that the 
leak I had was the little rubber covers on the lever 'warning' valves on the 
top of the tank. (The ones on my car were cracked) I fabricated some 'plugs 
with some pieces of ½ inch ID vinyl tubing using tie wraps I got it to seal. 
Replaced all 4 hoses ( the rear ones were cracked the front ones did not look 
too bad but at this point why not). Got it to bleed using from 14 - about 22 
PSI.

Ran over 2.5 liters of Dot 4 fluid thorough it (German stuff in the tins from 
Rusty). In the PDF-s for the car there is not a spec for how much pressure to 
use. It just says follow the instructions with the pressure bleeding equipment.

 

Does any one know the reasonable upper limit on how much you would want to 
pressurize the plastic break fluid tank ?? and is it normal for the floats on 
the top to leaka little  .


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 230K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Replaced Brake lines and bled brakes .

[harry watkins]

I remember Marshall giving a PSI number if you had an antilock brake system 
on the car.  If I had to guess, it would be 25 PSI, but that is only a 
guess.

I'll see if I saved it.

Harry

- Original Message - 
From: George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Monday, July 28, 2008 11:41 AM
Subject: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Replaced Brake lines and bled brakes .


Built a pressure bleeder from a bug sprayer. Wound up using one that was 
about 1.5 Gallon. Wanted to build a smaller one but the only smaller bug 
sprayer that I liken that I could find was from ACE hard ware and was to 
opaque of a plastic for me ( to hard to see the fluid level in it. I 
fabricated a top with a hose fitting out of a stock top drilling a hole for 
a 1/8 NPT nipple and used a o-ring with a custom fabricated washer that 
sealed up on the inside molded concentric ring on the underside of the cap 
.I was warned that when I pressurized it that the seals between the master 
cylinder and the tang might leak and a had a set of the seals standing by. 
How I was surprised that the leak I had was the little rubber covers on the 
lever 'warning' valves on the top of the tank. (The ones on my car were 
cracked) I fabricated some 'plugs with some pieces of ½ inch ID vinyl tubing 
using tie wraps I got it to seal. Replaced all 4 hoses ( the rear ones were 
cracked the front ones did not look too bad but at this point why not). Got 
it to bleed using from 14 - about 22 PSI.

Ran over 2.5 liters of Dot 4 fluid thorough it (German stuff in the tins 
from Rusty). In the PDF-s for the car there is not a spec for how much 
pressure to use. It just says follow the instructions with the pressure 
bleeding equipment.



Does any one know the reasonable upper limit on how much you would want to 
pressurize the plastic break fluid tank ?? and is it normal for the floats 
on the top to leaka little  .


George Larribeau
Dallas Texas


1985 300SD 230K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Replaced Brake lines and bled brakes .

[Chuck Landenberger]

George,

I've used a Speedi-Bleed for all my cars.  It uses a line to the  
front left tire for pressure and a valve to adjust how much.  I've  
used about 15-16 psi in the past.  After completing the flush, it's  
always necessary to remove some of the new brake fluid so it's down  
to the line on the side of the fluid reservoir.

Not sure what you mean by the floats.  The pressure caps (black) on  
top of the reservoir should be replaced every maybe two years.  Also  
the grommets under the reservoir should be replaced.  Both will start  
to get brittle.  Next time, wrap lots of rags around the reservoir,  
and lean it left and right with an upward pull to remove.  Then  
clean it by rinsing with new brake fluid.   Install new grommets  
and caps.  Refill the reservoir and install the bleeder and go for it.

To catch the fluid from the fitting on each wheel, I used a plastic  
water bottle, drilled a hole in the cap, inserted a length of  
windshield washer fluid hose and wrapped a piece of coat hanger  
around the neck with a hook at the other end that would suspend it on  
something while attached to the nipple/fitting.  Left me with two  
hands free.
Hope this helps  Oh, when you first take the car out, go easy to  
insure all is working correctly

Take care and be safe,

Chuck

On Jul 28, 2008, at 9:41 AM, George Larribeau wrote:

 Built a pressure bleeder from a bug sprayer. Wound up using one  
 that was about 1.5 Gallon. Wanted to build a smaller one but the  
 only smaller bug sprayer that I liken that I could find was from  
 ACE hard ware and was to opaque of a plastic for me ( to hard to  
 see the fluid level in it. I fabricated a top with a hose fitting  
 out of a stock top drilling a hole for a 1/8 NPT nipple and used a  
 o-ring with a custom fabricated washer that sealed up on the inside  
 molded concentric ring on the underside of the cap .I was warned  
 that when I pressurized it that the seals between the master  
 cylinder and the tang might leak and a had a set of the seals  
 standing by. How I was surprised that the leak I had was the little  
 rubber covers on the lever 'warning' valves on the top of the tank.  
 (The ones on my car were cracked) I fabricated some 'plugs with  
 some pieces of ½ inch ID vinyl tubing using tie wraps I got it to  
 seal. Replaced all 4 hoses ( the rear ones were cracked the front  
 ones did not look too bad but at this point why not). Got it to  
 bleed using from 14 - about 22 PSI.

 Ran over 2.5 liters of Dot 4 fluid thorough it (German stuff in the  
 tins from Rusty). In the PDF-s for the car there is not a spec for  
 how much pressure to use. It just says follow the instructions with  
 the pressure bleeding equipment.



 Does any one know the reasonable upper limit on how much you would  
 want to pressurize the plastic break fluid tank ?? and is it normal  
 for the floats on the top to leaka little  .


 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


 1985 300SD 230K
 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
  Ugly,but runs)


 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Replaced Brake lines and bled brakes .

[Jim Cathey]

 Does any one know the reasonable upper limit on how much you would 
 want to pressurize the plastic break fluid tank?

Not too much or it really will _be_ a break tank!  20psi?

-- Jim


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[MBZ] 1985 300SD Trunk Seal

[JPEnglish]

Has anyone ever replaced a trunk seal on a 300SD?
If so, any advice and/or tips for doing so would be appreciated.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Trunk Seal

[Mitch Haley]

You sure it's leaking, and not the rear window or the tail lamps?
Generally, rain just runs around the trunk opening and down the back
corners, and the seal is there to keep dust out. 

JPEnglish wrote:
 
 Has anyone ever replaced a trunk seal on a 300SD?
 If so, any advice and/or tips for doing so would be appreciated.
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Trunk Seal

[LWB250]

Yeah, I've done it on a 114, 123 and 126.

Here's what you need to do:

First, get the following materials:

3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover, # 08984 (quart
can)

Popsicle sticks with the ends cut straight (a pair of
diagonal pliers work well here) or piece of hardwood
shaped in a wedge narrow enough to fit in the seal
groove.

Old rags, shop towels, etc.


Procedure:

Using the wedge or popsicle sticks, scrape out as much
of the old seal as possible.  If it's really old and
dried out, you can usually pull pieces of it off by
the foot (or longer.)

Once you have removed as much of the seal as you
possibly can, take the Adhesive Remover with the
little tiny spout and soak the remains of the seal as
much as possible.  You can use the rags or something
to block the groove on each side so that the adhesive
remover will remain in the groove and not run down the
back of the car.

Let the adhesive remover soak the seal remains as long
as possible.  It does have nasty solvents in it, so it
will flash off pretty quick, depending on the
temperature and humidity.  Reapply as necessary.

Once the adhesive remover has soaked in well, take
your wooden wedge and start scraping the seal remains
out of the groove.  If you need to repeat the previous
step to get more of the remains out, do it.


Once everything is removed and clean, you're ready to
apply the new seal.  Use 3M Weatherstripping Adhesive
(black, NOT yellow!) and apply it sparingly, spreading
a thin film on both the groove and the back of the
seal.  Check the instructions (it's been a while since
I've used this stuff) but I believe it's like a
contact adhesive where you put it on both parts, let
it dry, then bond the parts together.

Good luck, and let us know how it goes.

Dan

--- JPEnglish [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:

 Has anyone ever replaced a trunk seal on a 300SD?
 If so, any advice and/or tips for doing so would be
 appreciated.



  

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Trunk Seal

[JPEnglish]

Dan,

Thanks a bunch for your directions!!  

John p
- Original Message - 
From: LWB250 [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 4:00 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD Trunk Seal


 Yeah, I've done it on a 114, 123 and 126.
 
 Here's what you need to do:
 
 First, get the following materials:
 
 3M General Purpose Adhesive Remover, # 08984 (quart
 can)
 
 Popsicle sticks with the ends cut straight (a pair of
 diagonal pliers work well here) or piece of hardwood
 shaped in a wedge narrow enough to fit in the seal
 groove.
 
 Old rags, shop towels, etc.
 
 
 Procedure:
 
 Using the wedge or popsicle sticks, scrape out as much
 of the old seal as possible.  If it's really old and
 dried out, you can usually pull pieces of it off by
 the foot (or longer.)
 
 Once you have removed as much of the seal as you
 possibly can, take the Adhesive Remover with the
 little tiny spout and soak the remains of the seal as
 much as possible.  You can use the rags or something
 to block the groove on each side so that the adhesive
 remover will remain in the groove and not run down the
 back of the car.
 
 Let the adhesive remover soak the seal remains as long
 as possible.  It does have nasty solvents in it, so it
 will flash off pretty quick, depending on the
 temperature and humidity.  Reapply as necessary.
 
 Once the adhesive remover has soaked in well, take
 your wooden wedge and start scraping the seal remains
 out of the groove.  If you need to repeat the previous
 step to get more of the remains out, do it.
 
 
 Once everything is removed and clean, you're ready to
 apply the new seal.  Use 3M Weatherstripping Adhesive
 (black, NOT yellow!) and apply it sparingly, spreading
 a thin film on both the groove and the back of the
 seal.  Check the instructions (it's been a while since
 I've used this stuff) but I believe it's like a
 contact adhesive where you put it on both parts, let
 it dry, then bond the parts together.
 
 Good luck, and let us know how it goes.
 
 Dan
 
 --- JPEnglish [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 
 Has anyone ever replaced a trunk seal on a 300SD?
 If so, any advice and/or tips for doing so would be
 appreciated.
 
 
 
  
 
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD HVAC repair The Aftermath ..

[George Larribeau]

What started out with what was perceived to be minor malfunction ...

Replaced 4 vacuum elements and a change over valve (I broke the valve)

The temp sensor was not working properly, most likely was measuring the 
temperature of the roof metal near head liner on inside. Found aspirator fan to 
be dead. After replacement it was still not right. Spider web ?? Used shop vac 
on it (hose at aspirator and this seamed to clear it up.

Han poor heat (no BTU-s) RR ed monovalve and aux circulator pump. Hassle to 
remove but just was not sure of the pumps status. turned out my old one was OK 
after looking at it and the hassle of removal having a new one in hand, I could 
not return the old one to service. So I installed the new one. Put the kit in 
the monovalve, turns out the my old one was starting to leak. Never could 
determine if it was sticking closed sure did not seam to be stuck closed. more 
to be revealed. Don't know if the heater is fixed the problem only occurs when 
its is cold out side and it got warm again ..

Replaced the other gears ion the odometer, the gears from odometergerrs.com fit 
just fine.
Now have wood trim removed from dash and am going to try to re-glue it. It 
appears that this has been done in the past.




George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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[MBZ] 1985 300SD radio repair - report

[George Larribeau]

I got my radio back from Becker just before Christmas but hat the car so apart 
from the heater I was not able to check it out. It is now installed and I am 
quite happy with it. I went for the exchange, I don't know why I guess at the 
time it seamed easier. The exchange unit looks fine and works flawlessly. I am 
completely satisfied. The folks at Becker were nice, there was none of the we 
don't fix old stuff nonsense..

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD odometer repair - follow up

[George Larribeau]

Odometer gear follow up:

(Referenced to odometergears.com/mercedes.html  E1,E2,E3)

On my unit upon removal the E1 gear was trashed, 3 pieces, crumbs and the 
brass insert. The E2 and E3 gear looked fine, however after I tried to clean 
the other 2 gears the E3 gear crumbled, I went Obsessive Compulsive on it 
and glued it back together and like I previously indicated it is currently 
working. On my unit the E1 and E3 gears were made of the light nylon colored 
stuff and the E2 gear is black (this is in contrast to the pictures on the 
web site where the E3 gear is black. ) I suspect that the light colored 
stuff is the root cause of the failure ( it got old). My E2 gear looks real 
good however at this point I am replacing the E2 and E3, I have all ready 
replaced the E1 gear.
Speaking of the E1 gear, from the web site: The E1 gear will press on 
with your thumb. Take a pair of wire/side cutters and squeeze firmly on the 
brass fitting on the drive shaft. It should slide right off. This gear will 
be a press fit over the plain shaft.
Well I was unable to get the gear to push off, I became real concerned of 
the force I was applying and that other plastic could break. I used a 6 
pair of Klien diagonal cutters and cracked off the brass insert kind of like 
what a nut splitter would do. The E1 gear did press on at this point with 
out major fuss but this does require some care.

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas


1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)


1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better) 



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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD odometer repair

[George Larribeau]

Tried to clean the goop off the gears, know why they are sold in sets ,(I 
just bought the one gear) the other white nylon? one broke into about 4 
pieces. The OSD kicked in and I superglue it together. I lubed the gears 
with the swimming pool stuff. Odometer is currently working .. I ordered the 
other gears today.

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas



- Original Message - 
From: George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 4:33 PM
Subject: [MBZ] 1985 300SD odometer repair


I got my odometer gear today from odometer gears ltd (odometergears.com). 
It installed per web instructions. The gear that broke in my unit was the 
one with 12 teeth and the brass insert. The new one is all plastic, and I 
had to remove the old brass insert, It kind of split off with 6 Klein 
diagonal cutters. I was somewhat fear full of breaking some thing but it 
worked out for me. The new gear pushes on .

 Now the lubricating waxy stuff on the gears looks to me like it needs some 
 kind of replenishment. Any Ideas? I was thinking of Leslies swimming pool 
 o-ring greases (a DOW silicone/? product that reminds me of vacuum grease 
 but a bit lighter .)

 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


 1985 300SD 207K
 1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
 1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
 1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
 1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)


 1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
 1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD odometer repair

[OK Don]

Thanks for sharing - I've been debating whether to buy just the broken
gear, or spring for the whole set. Now I know!

On Jan 28, 2008 4:32 PM, George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 Tried to clean the goop off the gears, know why they are sold in sets ,(I
 just bought the one gear) the other white nylon? one broke into about 4
 pieces. The OSD kicked in and I superglue it together. I lubed the gears
 with the swimming pool stuff. Odometer is currently working .. I ordered the
 other gears today.

 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas



-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

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[MBZ] 1985 300SD odometer repair

[George Larribeau]

I got my odometer gear today from odometer gears ltd (odometergears.com). It 
installed per web instructions. The gear that broke in my unit was the one with 
12 teeth and the brass insert. The new one is all plastic, and I had to remove 
the old brass insert, It kind of split off with 6 Klein diagonal cutters. I 
was somewhat fear full of breaking some thing but it worked out for me. The new 
gear pushes on .

Now the lubricating waxy stuff on the gears looks to me like it needs some kind 
of replenishment. Any Ideas? I was thinking of Leslies swimming pool o-ring 
greases (a DOW silicone/? product that reminds me of vacuum grease but a bit 
lighter .)

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas
 
 
1985 300SD 207K
1987 HD FLHTC 90K, Bent 2 I
1984 Motoguzzi Cal -2 80K
1972 Motoguzzi Ambassador LOTS
1965 Chevy C-10 pick up truck lots of miles 3rd small block ..(Extra
 Ugly,but runs)
 
 
1993 BMW 323i  125K (Wife's Car)
1967 BMW R50/2 (Wife's MC, currently in a Basket, Getting Better)
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Dec 13, 2007 11:14 PM, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  No Joy in Mudville!  Changed the fan with a known good fan with
  negative results.  I'm leaning toward a pushbutton fault.  Seems to be
  temp dependant, although before now, only affected by extreme heat.

 Resolder it.  I've fixed a couple of the 126/124 type that way.



'Tis true!  As a happy customer of Jim's back when he was running
Cathey's Soldering Shack and Microwave Recycling Service, I can
testify to the effectiveness of resoldering the pushbutton unit.  I'm
finding that it makes winter driving much more pleasant---when working
as designed, the ACC really does a good job of simultaneously
defogging the windshield and keeping your toes warm.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

Alex Chamberlain
'87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[Rich Thomas]

I have to do that for the TD.  If I recall, you stripped off the varnish 
with some concoction?  Then resoldered all the components?  Are there 
solder paths too, or is it all on a PCB?

--R

Alex Chamberlain wrote:
 On Dec 13, 2007 11:14 PM, Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
   
 No Joy in Mudville!  Changed the fan with a known good fan with
 negative results.  I'm leaning toward a pushbutton fault.  Seems to be
 temp dependant, although before now, only affected by extreme heat.
   
 Resolder it.  I've fixed a couple of the 126/124 type that way.


 

 'Tis true!  As a happy customer of Jim's back when he was running
 Cathey's Soldering Shack and Microwave Recycling Service, I can
 testify to the effectiveness of resoldering the pushbutton unit.  I'm
 finding that it makes winter driving much more pleasant---when working
 as designed, the ACC really does a good job of simultaneously
 defogging the windshield and keeping your toes warm.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

 Alex Chamberlain
 '87 300D Turbo et al.

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[Jim Cathey]

 I have to do that for the TD.  If I recall, you stripped off the 
 varnish
 with some concoction?  Then resoldered all the components?  Are there
 solder paths too, or is it all on a PCB?

Solder paths?  It's PCB work.  Here are some notes from a 124 unit:

... August 17 2006: 6:33 AM:
I can see visibly cracked solder joints on the OFF switch, so I'm
confident that resoldering will help.

Unit contains four circuit boards.  Prying out the two
innermost ones is difficult.  The dial has a retaining pin
that has to be pried out to release the main board.  The lack
of a conformal coating has allowed enough oxidation that the
resoldering is proceeding _very_ slowly.  Yes, _very_ slowly.
Most of the IC's resolder OK, but the 2-lead components,
especially the jumpers that keep the boards one-sided, require
heavy heating and scraping with the iron to get the solder to
stick again.  Perhaps heating them isn't a good idea?  I could
limit myself to the obvious problems like the switches, but...

Man, that was tedious!  It took several hours to do the
soldering.  If I get more of these and they're all like this
I'll have to raise the price.

And some notes from a 126 unit:

...October 4 2006: 8:00 PM:
Definitely had the same problem as the last one where
the solder didn't stick well to the 2-lead components during
resoldering, especially the jumper wires.  (There were plenty
of signs that the original solder job had something of the
same problem.)  I used the Dremel wire brush to burnish all
the joints, especially the exposed parts of the leads, before
beginning resoldering.  This definitely helped, the majority
of the pins resoldered much easer than the last time.

-- Jim


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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[Rory]

Currently struggling with a heater fan that is intermittant, mostly
not working.  Since I have a 126 parts car, I removed the blower motor
with the intent to change it out with the used blower.  prior to doing
so, I applied voltage and the blower worked fine.  I also changed out
the geblaseregler with no effect.

I searching through old posts on this topic, I found reference to a
fuse for the blower that is not in the fuse box, where would this be
located?  Also, is there a blower relay in the fuse box?

Thanks for any assistance.

Merry Christmas!

On Dec 8, 2007 8:51 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You have to remove the side carpet cover from the center console.


 George Larribeau wrote:
  I have what appears to be ether a lose hose or maybe a bad vacuum 'pod'. I
  think it is some kind of leak (hose) because all of the controls have ceased
  functioning. However the heat will still go on an off but the vents are
  stuck.
 
  Am going through the vacuum testing pdfs 83-614,615,620and 622. 83-622
  titled testing vacuum circuit 4,5,6 refers to 'remove right-hand lateral
  lining of center console' pdf 68-200 (I have removed the glove box and the
  right hand under instrument panel and am clear enough on that) however pdf
  68-200 removes the entire center console vs 'right-hand lateral lining' and
  shows one with a different climate control system.
  What am I missing?
  Suggestions any one ??
 
 
  George Larribeau
  Dallas, Texas
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Jim Cathey
  Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:03 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs
 
  My experience with these (type 3's) is that problems _other_than_
  bad monovalve inserts, solder joints in the controller pushbutton
  array, and bad aspiration (either fan or foam hose) are less common.
  (These were listed in order of likelihood.)  The list goes on from
  there to include bad vacuum pods, broken plastic HVAC parts, etc.
  I have never had a bad vacuum switchover valve.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
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 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
   91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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-- 
Rory Morrison
Oroville, WA
1985 300SD
1982 300TD

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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[George Larribeau]

When that happened to my car it was the brushes in the blower motor. Before 
it totally quit it got real intermittent and I got astray on the problem.
If you have it apart take a good look at the brushes.
(the way the thing is made they arte not real easy to change but I know it 
has been done.)
I replaced my motor when it went bad.

George Larribeau
Dallas Texas


1985 300SD 207K




- Original Message - 
From: Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED]
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 11:18 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs


 Currently struggling with a heater fan that is intermittant, mostly
 not working.  Since I have a 126 parts car, I removed the blower motor
 with the intent to change it out with the used blower.  prior to doing
 so, I applied voltage and the blower worked fine.  I also changed out
 the geblaseregler with no effect.

 I searching through old posts on this topic, I found reference to a
 fuse for the blower that is not in the fuse box, where would this be
 located?  Also, is there a blower relay in the fuse box?

 Thanks for any assistance.

 Merry Christmas!

 On Dec 8, 2007 8:51 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 You have to remove the side carpet cover from the center console.


 George Larribeau wrote:
  I have what appears to be ether a lose hose or maybe a bad vacuum 
  'pod'. I
  think it is some kind of leak (hose) because all of the controls have 
  ceased
  functioning. However the heat will still go on an off but the vents are
  stuck.
 
  Am going through the vacuum testing pdfs 83-614,615,620and 622. 83-622
  titled testing vacuum circuit 4,5,6 refers to 'remove right-hand 
  lateral
  lining of center console' pdf 68-200 (I have removed the glove box and 
  the
  right hand under instrument panel and am clear enough on that) however 
  pdf
  68-200 removes the entire center console vs 'right-hand lateral lining' 
  and
  shows one with a different climate control system.
  What am I missing?
  Suggestions any one ??
 
 
  George Larribeau
  Dallas, Texas
 
  -Original Message-
  From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] 
  [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
  Behalf Of Jim Cathey
  Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:03 PM
  To: Mercedes Discussion List
  Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs
 
  My experience with these (type 3's) is that problems _other_than_
  bad monovalve inserts, solder joints in the controller pushbutton
  array, and bad aspiration (either fan or foam hose) are less common.
  (These were listed in order of likelihood.)  The list goes on from
  there to include bad vacuum pods, broken plastic HVAC parts, etc.
  I have never had a bad vacuum switchover valve.
 
  -- Jim
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 

 --
 Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
   94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
   91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
   84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
   76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
 http://www.okiebenz.com


 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com




 -- 
 Rory Morrison
 Oroville, WA
 1985 300SD
 1982 300TD

 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
 http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

 



___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

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http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[Rory]

No Joy in Mudville!  Changed the fan with a known good fan with
negative results.  I'm leaning toward a pushbutton fault.  Seems to be
temp dependant, although before now, only affected by extreme heat.

Anyone have a good pushbutton assy. available?

Thanks for any additional input.

Regards,

On Dec 13, 2007 3:32 PM, George Larribeau [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 When that happened to my car it was the brushes in the blower motor. Before
 it totally quit it got real intermittent and I got astray on the problem.
 If you have it apart take a good look at the brushes.
 (the way the thing is made they arte not real easy to change but I know it
 has been done.)
 I replaced my motor when it went bad.

 George Larribeau
 Dallas Texas


 1985 300SD 207K





 - Original Message -
 From: Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 11:18 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs


  Currently struggling with a heater fan that is intermittant, mostly
  not working.  Since I have a 126 parts car, I removed the blower motor
  with the intent to change it out with the used blower.  prior to doing
  so, I applied voltage and the blower worked fine.  I also changed out
  the geblaseregler with no effect.
 
  I searching through old posts on this topic, I found reference to a
  fuse for the blower that is not in the fuse box, where would this be
  located?  Also, is there a blower relay in the fuse box?
 
  Thanks for any assistance.
 
  Merry Christmas!
 
  On Dec 8, 2007 8:51 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
  You have to remove the side carpet cover from the center console.
 
 
  George Larribeau wrote:
   I have what appears to be ether a lose hose or maybe a bad vacuum
   'pod'. I
   think it is some kind of leak (hose) because all of the controls have
   ceased
   functioning. However the heat will still go on an off but the vents are
   stuck.
  
   Am going through the vacuum testing pdfs 83-614,615,620and 622. 83-622
   titled testing vacuum circuit 4,5,6 refers to 'remove right-hand
   lateral
   lining of center console' pdf 68-200 (I have removed the glove box and
   the
   right hand under instrument panel and am clear enough on that) however
   pdf
   68-200 removes the entire center console vs 'right-hand lateral lining'
   and
   shows one with a different climate control system.
   What am I missing?
   Suggestions any one ??
  
  
   George Larribeau
   Dallas, Texas
  
   -Original Message-
   From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
   [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
   Behalf Of Jim Cathey
   Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:03 PM
   To: Mercedes Discussion List
   Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs
  
   My experience with these (type 3's) is that problems _other_than_
   bad monovalve inserts, solder joints in the controller pushbutton
   array, and bad aspiration (either fan or foam hose) are less common.
   (These were listed in order of likelihood.)  The list goes on from
   there to include bad vacuum pods, broken plastic HVAC parts, etc.
   I have never had a bad vacuum switchover valve.
  
   -- Jim
  
  
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
  
  
   ___
   http://www.okiebenz.com
   For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
   For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
  
   To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
   http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
  
 
  --
  Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
94 E420, 92 300SD, 92 300D, 92 250D Turbo, 92 300E 4Matic,
91 300D, 90 420SEL, 89 560SEL, 89 260E, 87 300SDL, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 81 240D, 81 380SLC, 80 240D, 76 240D,
76 300D, 72 250C, 69 250
  http://www.okiebenz.com
 
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
 
 
  --
  Rory Morrison
  Oroville, WA
  1985 300SD
  1982 300TD
 
  ___
  http://www.okiebenz.com
  For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
  For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]
 
  To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
  http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 



 ___
 http://www.okiebenz.com
 For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
 For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go

Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[OK Don]

Sounds like re-soldering time ---
No, I don't have one for your car. Kaleb might, but his internet
access is a bit spotty right now, with no electricity. If you want,
you can contact me off-list, and I'll give you his phone number.

On Dec 13, 2007 9:58 PM, Rory [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote:
 No Joy in Mudville!  Changed the fan with a known good fan with
 negative results.  I'm leaning toward a pushbutton fault.  Seems to be
 temp dependant, although before now, only affected by extreme heat.

 Anyone have a good pushbutton assy. available?

 Thanks for any additional input.


-- 
OK Don, KD5NRO
Norman, OK
There are three kinds of lies: lies, damn lies, and statistics.
-Benjamin Disraeli and/or Mark Twain
'90 300D, '87 300SDL, '81 240D, '78 450SLC, '97 Ply Grand Voyager

___
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For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[Jim Cathey]

 No Joy in Mudville!  Changed the fan with a known good fan with
 negative results.  I'm leaning toward a pushbutton fault.  Seems to be
 temp dependant, although before now, only affected by extreme heat.

Resolder it.  I've fixed a couple of the 126/124 type that way.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com

Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

[George Larribeau]

I have what appears to be ether a lose hose or maybe a bad vacuum 'pod'. I
think it is some kind of leak (hose) because all of the controls have ceased
functioning. However the heat will still go on an off but the vents are
stuck.

Am going through the vacuum testing pdfs 83-614,615,620and 622. 83-622
titled testing vacuum circuit 4,5,6 refers to 'remove right-hand lateral
lining of center console' pdf 68-200 (I have removed the glove box and the
right hand under instrument panel and am clear enough on that) however pdf
68-200 removes the entire center console vs 'right-hand lateral lining' and
shows one with a different climate control system.
What am I missing?
Suggestions any one ??


George Larribeau
Dallas, Texas

-Original Message-
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Behalf Of Jim Cathey
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:03 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1985 300SD(126) Climate control repairs

My experience with these (type 3's) is that problems _other_than_
bad monovalve inserts, solder joints in the controller pushbutton
array, and bad aspiration (either fan or foam hose) are less common.
(These were listed in order of likelihood.)  The list goes on from
there to include bad vacuum pods, broken plastic HVAC parts, etc.
I have never had a bad vacuum switchover valve.

-- Jim


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
http://okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


___
http://www.okiebenz.com
For new parts see official list sponsor: http://www.buymbparts.com/
For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED]

To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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