Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I drive the car daily 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 11, 2018, at 10:59 PM, clay monroe via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> Refuse to accept the offer to total and provide them with reams of data 
> showing it is worth much more.  The longer you sit on the resolution, the 
> more antsy they become.   Take the car home with you so they can not steal it
> 
> 
> clay monroe
> redgh...@comcast.net
> 
> 
> 
>> On Sep 11, 2018, at 7:24 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage 
>> at $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today 
>> and they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from 
>> the state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they 
>> offer.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[clay monroe via Mercedes]

Paint is what is killing the estimate.   Maybe you can source a door and have 
it delivered to the shop to do the work.  That should lower the “estimate”.   
Talk to the shop about what they will allow that will lower the cost.  Then you 
can negotiate with Slut Farm about just how total loss it is.


clay monroe
redgh...@comcast.net



> On Sep 11, 2018, at 8:01 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> The only fixing I might do is replace the door and maybe get it painted 
> cheaply. Or, I may buy it back and turn around and stick it on Craigslist and 
> sell it.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
>> On Sep 11, 2018, at 9:43 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes  
>> wrote:
>> 
>> Buy it back, don’t fix it, keep the money and use it for getting the 
>> cabriolet in shape, then give it to Regina for the final blow to finish it 
>> off.
>> 
>> -D
>> 
>>> On Sep 11, 2018, at 10:37 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>>  wrote:
>>> 
>>> buy it back and fix it and run it into the ground
>>> 
>>> --FT
>>> 
>>> 
 On 9/11/18 10:24 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
 So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage 
 at $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them 
 today and they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or 
 something from the state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall 
 see what they offer.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
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 To search list archives http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> 
>>> -- 
>>> --FT
>>> 
>>> 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[clay monroe via Mercedes]

Refuse to accept the offer to total and provide them with reams of data showing 
it is worth much more.  The longer you sit on the resolution, the more antsy 
they become.   Take the car home with you so they can not steal it


clay monroe
redgh...@comcast.net



> On Sep 11, 2018, at 7:24 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage at 
> $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today and 
> they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from the 
> state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they offer.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Rick Knoble via Mercedes]

I think he gave that car away.


Rick

From: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: September 11, 2018 9:44 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Reply-to: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Cc: d...@penoff.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update


Buy it back, don’t fix it, keep the money and use it for getting the cabriolet 
in shape, then give it to Regina for the final blow to finish it off.

-D


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Well this car already has a rebuilt title so

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 11, 2018, at 9:44 AM, Mitch Haley via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> See if they do like the insurance adjusters for the woman who rear ended Clay 
> and retitle the car as salvage before ever coming to an agreement to buy the 
> car from you. 
> Mitch. 
>> On September 11, 2018 at 10:24 AM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> 
>> So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage 
>> at $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today 
>> and they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from 
>> the state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they 
>> offer.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

The only fixing I might do is replace the door and maybe get it painted 
cheaply. Or, I may buy it back and turn around and stick it on Craigslist and 
sell it.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 11, 2018, at 9:43 AM, Dan--- via Mercedes  
> wrote:
> 
> Buy it back, don’t fix it, keep the money and use it for getting the 
> cabriolet in shape, then give it to Regina for the final blow to finish it 
> off.
> 
> -D
> 
>> On Sep 11, 2018, at 10:37 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> buy it back and fix it and run it into the ground
>> 
>> --FT
>> 
>> 
>>> On 9/11/18 10:24 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>>> So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage 
>>> at $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today 
>>> and they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from 
>>> the state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they 
>>> offer.
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> 
>>> ___
>>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>>> 
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>>> 
>>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>>> 
>>> 
>> 
>> -- 
>> --FT
>> 
>> 
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>> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

Oh they will not get the car. Just will have to see what they offer and what 
the buy back is.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Sep 11, 2018, at 9:37 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> buy it back and fix it and run it into the ground
> 
> --FT
> 
> 
>> On 9/11/18 10:24 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage 
>> at $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today 
>> and they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from 
>> the state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they 
>> offer.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
>> http://www.okiebenz.com
>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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>> 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Mitch Haley via Mercedes]

See if they do like the insurance adjusters for the woman who rear ended Clay 
and retitle the car as salvage before ever coming to an agreement to buy the 
car from you. 
Mitch. 
> On September 11, 2018 at 10:24 AM "Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes" 
>  wrote:
> 
> 
> So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage at 
> $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today and 
> they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from the 
> state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they offer.
> 
> Sent from my iPhone
> 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Dan--- via Mercedes]

Buy it back, don’t fix it, keep the money and use it for getting the cabriolet 
in shape, then give it to Regina for the final blow to finish it off.

-D

> On Sep 11, 2018, at 10:37 AM, Floyd Thursby via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> buy it back and fix it and run it into the ground
> 
> --FT
> 
> 
>> On 9/11/18 10:24 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:
>> So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage 
>> at $3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today 
>> and they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from 
>> the state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they 
>> offer.
>> 
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
>> ___
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>> 
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>> 
>> To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
>> http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
>> 
>> 
> 
> -- 
> --FT
> 
> 
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> 


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 State Farm update

[Floyd Thursby via Mercedes]

buy it back and fix it and run it into the ground

--FT


On 9/11/18 10:24 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes wrote:

So I took the car in last week to their body shop who estimated the damage at 
$3500 as opposed to the $2100 estimate from their app. Called them today and 
they are totaling it. They ordered some title report or something from the 
state and will call when it comes in. I guess we shall see what they offer.

Sent from my iPhone

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--
--FT


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 Diesel hard starting

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

If you replace the ones from the min filter to the IP and from the IP to 
the collection point, better than surgical cleanliness is a must.  More 
like clean room.



Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
February 27, 2017 at 8:39 AM
Good point Curly, I've already replaced some of those rubber hoses, might
as well finish that job all the way.

Kaleb, I've never replaced those clear plastic fuel lines at the IP on any
car, never had reason to. I've got to put together a dealer order for some
other stuff, I guess I can price them out.

-
Max
Charleston SC


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 Diesel hard starting

[Meade Dillon via Mercedes]

Good point Curly, I've already replaced some of those rubber hoses, might
as well finish that job all the way.

Kaleb, I've never replaced those clear plastic fuel lines at the IP on any
car, never had reason to.  I've got to put together a dealer order for some
other stuff, I guess I can price them out.

-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 Diesel hard starting

[Kaleb C. Striplin via Mercedes]

I works probably order up and replace all of the plastic fuel lines, and 
delivery valve seals under the manifold. I am fixing to do this on 2 cars. I 
did it on 2 others last year. They were not hard to start but were leaking fuel 
all over the place.

Sent from my iPhone

> On Feb 27, 2017, at 8:00 AM, Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
>  wrote:
> 
> consider?


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 Diesel hard starting

[Curley McLain via Mercedes]

All rubber between the tank, the engine (IP) and back to the tank, 
including return lines at the injectors.



Meade Dillon via Mercedes 
February 27, 2017 at 8:00 AM
Dieselvolk,

In the last few weeks the '95 E300 has become a little harder to start,
especially when cold. Another second or two of cranking is required before
the engine will fire up. Once started, idle is smooth and even with no
smoking.

The glow plugs were replaced within the last year, and shortly before that
I replaced the injector nozzles with new Monark. I can easily test the
glow plugs, and will do that this week.

This model car has the infamous o-ring connections all over the injection
pump and fuel filter holder. Those are all getting close to ten years old
and 100k miles, so I think that those are the most suspect component(s).

What else should I consider?
-
Max
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 pic

[Mitch Haley]

rmassm...@embarqmail.com wrote:
I have a 95 E300D 375K miles and still going. It is my daily transport 
to and from work. I still get 33 MPG out on the highway.  I have put 
100K miles on it and I am the second owner. A real nice ride. I am 
currently waiting on a center muffler section that I will be changing 
this weekend.


What would make the car a Special edition?

Bob Massmann
Oregoina, Ohio


Looks like SE wheels. I never realized how short you were.
Can you see over the steering wheel?

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 pic

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 7:26 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 rmassm...@embarqmail.com wrote:

 I have a 95 E300D 375K miles and still going. It is my daily transport to
 and from work. I still get 33 MPG out on the highway.  I have put 100K
 miles on it and I am the second owner. A real nice ride. I am currently
 waiting on a center muffler section that I will be changing this weekend.

 Looks like SE wheels. I never realized how short you were.
 Can you see over the steering wheel?


ROFL!

Beautiful car, Bob.  Is the interior tan?  I love green-on-tan cars, but
I've never managed to own one.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 pic

[Chris James]

That's a beautiful Emerald Green E300D SE! Some CL  eBay sellers should 
see it  take note of what a NICE car actually looks like! ;-)



In time, looks like you'll have someone to pass it on to! :-)


Thanks!


--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 pic

[rmassmann]

I think it is an off white or palameno

-Original Message- 
From: Alex Chamberlain

Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 11:41 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 pic

On Fri, Jul 5, 2013 at 7:26 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:


rmassm...@embarqmail.com wrote:


I have a 95 E300D 375K miles and still going. It is my daily transport to
and from work. I still get 33 MPG out on the highway.  I have put 100K
miles on it and I am the second owner. A real nice ride. I am currently
waiting on a center muffler section that I will be changing this weekend.

Looks like SE wheels. I never realized how short you were.

Can you see over the steering wheel?



ROFL!

Beautiful car, Bob.  Is the interior tan?  I love green-on-tan cars, but
I've never managed to own one.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[rmassmann]

Yep! No Turbo in my car, which I thought was strange when I bought it.

Robert Massmann
1995 E300D 375 Kmiles
Oregonia Ohio

-Original Message- 
From: Alex Chamberlain 
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 1:41 PM 
To: Mercedes Discussion List 
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 


On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.comwrote:



On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 10:29 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:


How much do you want for it?  I'll give you $500.

Dan collecting W140 chassis cars now



I don't think it's a 140 but an E320 Special Edition (made only in '95 to
commemorate the last year of the 124 chassis IIRC).



Or an E300 normally aspirated 606 diesel Special Edition, which is pretty
rare.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Mitch Haley]

rmassm...@embarqmail.com wrote:

Yep! No Turbo in my car, which I thought was strange when I bought it.



The 124 diesel went from 147 hp turbo 603, to nonexistent, to 126 hp turbo 602, 
to 134 hp 24v 606 with variable intake tuning. When USA version of OM606 finally 
got a turbo in 1998, it came with an intercooler and 174hp.

(BTW, Bob, how sooty are your intake butterflies?)
Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 pic

[rmassmann]

Only if I can keep the rust at bay. It did spend most of its life out in 
California, but being in Ohio there is more salt.  Maybe I should get my 82 
300D back on the road.


Regards,

Robert Massmann
1995 E300D 375 Kmiles
Oregonia, Ohio

-Original Message- 
From: Chris James

Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 1:20 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300 pic

That's a beautiful Emerald Green E300D SE! Some CL  eBay sellers should
see it  take note of what a NICE car actually looks like! ;-)


In time, looks like you'll have someone to pass it on to! :-)


Thanks!


--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[rmassmann]

I did clean the intake when I had to pull the head for a coolant leak. I 
also found out the the engine wire harness is a real issue also.


-Original Message- 
From: Mitch Haley

Sent: Friday, July 05, 2013 7:07 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

rmassm...@embarqmail.com wrote:

Yep! No Turbo in my car, which I thought was strange when I bought it.



The 124 diesel went from 147 hp turbo 603, to nonexistent, to 126 hp turbo 
602,
to 134 hp 24v 606 with variable intake tuning. When USA version of OM606 
finally

got a turbo in 1998, it came with an intercooler and 174hp.
(BTW, Bob, how sooty are your intake butterflies?)
Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[rmassmann]

Chris J.,

Thank you for the link, by the description I guess I am a special edition 
owner. I have the built in phone, 6 CD changer, burl wood trim, chrome 
sills, metallic paint, and the six hole rims.


-Original Message- 
From: Chris James

Sent: Monday, July 01, 2013 9:19 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300


See link:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3156724-post18.html



On 7/1/2013 9:13 PM, rmassm...@embarqmail.com wrote:

I have a 95 E300D 375K miles and still going. What would make the car
a Special edition? Bob Massmann Oregoina, Ohio



--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[rmassmann]

I have a 95 E300D 375K miles and still going, dark metallic green paint. It 
is my daily transport to
and from work. It still get 33 MPG out on the highway.  I have put 100K 
miles

on it and I am the second owner. A real nice ride. I am currently waiting on
a center muffler section that I will be changing this weekend and it can't 
get here quick enough.


What would make the car a Special edition?

I did send another email with a photo attached but didn't get posted

Bob Massmann
Oregoina, Ohio

-Original Message- 
From: Craig

Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 10:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

On Sat, 22 Jun 2013 20:39:21 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:


Not in CS.  Definitely a meat and potatoes crowd for the most part.  No
tofu that I ever saw.  Just a lot of the outdoorsy stuff, hence the
Subarus.  And Jeeps.


We had a 1961 Willys Utility Wagon with a Ford 302. It went really well
and got better mileage than the '59 Wagon we had with the Hurrican inline
6 cylinder engine.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Chris James]

See link:
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3156724-post18.html



On 7/1/2013 9:13 PM, rmassm...@embarqmail.com wrote:

I have a 95 E300D 375K miles and still going. What would make the car
a Special edition? Bob Massmann Oregoina, Ohio



--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Dieselhead]

With the current drought, I guess the answer would be barely. 
However, in Oregon where we came from and may move back to again, 
there is more than enough water most of the time.

Kevin in the port, Colorado


I had an opportunity most people will snap up in a second.  It was to 
move to the CO Springs area for work.  I went out and looked around, 
and decided I could not live in a desert, even though the MBCA HQ was 
there.


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Dan Penoff]

Just as they issue sidearms when you move to Texas, you would have been 
required to buy a Subaru and eat copious amounts of granola had you moved 
there.  The MBCA HQ is hardly a draw.

Great place for a barbecue right now, too.

Dan


On Jun 22, 2013, at 9:25 AM, Dieselhead wrote:

 With the current drought, I guess the answer would be barely. However, in 
 Oregon where we came from and may move back to again, there is more than 
 enough water most of the time.
 Kevin in the port, Colorado
 
 I had an opportunity most people will snap up in a second.  It was to move to 
 the CO Springs area for work.  I went out and looked around, and decided I 
 could not live in a desert, even though the MBCA HQ was there.
 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Michael Canfield]

Argh.  There it is again.  A reminder that Dr. Booth was human after
all.

Compared to the price of a new car, there is no better bargain for the
money than an old Benz in decent shape.

Cheap is a relative term.  I have maybe $2000 in my 83 and have been
driving it daily, like a taxi really, for near 2 years now.  I say that is
real cheap.  My friend Jon has $450 in his 85td he bought as a parts
car...been driving that for 2 years now and constantly gets compliments
on it.

Anyway, nice find!  Hope your cheap Mercedes gives you many miles of
service!

Mike
On Jun 21, 2013 3:43 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 21/06/2013 12:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They
 had $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine.
 It's silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no
 heated seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk.


  Get the For Sale sign on it quick.

 Remember There is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes

 Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[WILTON]

Co. Springs looked mighty good to me, but I didn't get out into the desert. 
'Course, that was on visits from Greenland and after 2½ years in Mojave 
Desert (George AFB, Victorville, CA.)   ;)


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300


With the current drought, I guess the answer would be barely. However, in 
Oregon where we came from and may move back to again, there is more than 
enough water most of the time.

Kevin in the port, Colorado


I had an opportunity most people will snap up in a second.  It was to move 
to the CO Springs area for work.  I went out and looked around, and 
decided I could not live in a desert, even though the MBCA HQ was there.


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Brian Toscano]

Colorado Springs is semi-arid.  The soil is often just sand.  There is no
major water source nearby.  The drinking water comes from far away places
through a series of pipes and tunnels.  As far as the Subaru's and granola,
Dan you should continue to live in your cesspools and sinkholes known as
the Midwest and Florida since you seem to know very little about the area.




On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 9:05 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:

 Co. Springs looked mighty good to me, but I didn't get out into the
 desert. 'Course, that was on visits from Greenland and after 2½ years in
 Mojave Desert (George AFB, Victorville, CA.)   ;)

 Wilton

 - Original Message - From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 9:25 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300



  With the current drought, I guess the answer would be barely. However,
 in Oregon where we came from and may move back to again, there is more
 than enough water most of the time.

 Kevin in the port, Colorado


 I had an opportunity most people will snap up in a second.  It was to
 move to the CO Springs area for work.  I went out and looked around, and
 decided I could not live in a desert, even though the MBCA HQ was there.

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Dan Penoff]

Now settle down.  I was just joking.

I know the area well, as I have two friends who live there - one who works for 
HP and lives on the southwest side of town, and another who is a teacher at 
Doherty High School.  I have visited both of them numerous times over the 
years, so I have been there and had direct experience with the area and its 
residents.  I would add that both of them are borderline Subaru/granola folks, 
and they're just fine with that...

I would add that I have stayed in the immediate area for extended times in my 
former career while commissioning the ADMAX (Supermax) Federal Penitentiary in 
Florence.  It's not the 'Springs, but it's pretty much in the backyard.

As for cesspools, there aren't any in Florida that I know of, since anyone 
familiar with the geology of Florida would know that you can't dig holes here 
without them filling up with water.  Sinkholes are not unique to Florida.  
There are active sinkhole areas in Texas, Kentucky, Alabama, Missouri, 
Tennessee and Pennsylvania.



On Jun 22, 2013, at 6:57 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

 Colorado Springs is semi-arid.  The soil is often just sand.  There is no
 major water source nearby.  The drinking water comes from far away places
 through a series of pipes and tunnels.  As far as the Subaru's and granola,
 Dan you should continue to live in your cesspools and sinkholes known as
 the Midwest and Florida since you seem to know very little about the area.


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Mountain Man]

Dieselhead wrote:
 I had an opportunity most people will snap up in a second.  It was to move
 to the CO Springs area for work.

We took up that opportunity that was offered to us in mid '80's and
knew nothing of what we were getting in to.  What happens if we needed
a hospital? etc.  My kids say our worst mistake as a family was to
move away from the abode we had in the moose pasture east of CSpgs.
We were on a 200-foot deep well in to the Black Squirrel aquifer -
absolutely without challenge the best water in the world which also
served as recharge to deeper wells people in Denver drew from.  Sod
field with irrigation rig to play under across the road.  Dumped my
used oil in the bar-ditch - my bad.  The city was 35 minutes west from
the abode we enjoyed and the city had everything we could ever want,
plus 5 major govt military installations - NORAD, AF Academy, Ft
Carson, Peterson AFB, Shriever AFB.  That total military mission may
have grown by now.  There is nothing bad to say about CSpgs except
that today it appears as if the idiocy of housing development that is
the ruination of much of the beauty we knew 25 years ago is
relentless.  We learned to enjoy the wonder of the beauty of the
grasses in all seasons especially the Fall when they dried out and the
colors were immense.  Plenty of natural diversity and beauty in all
the open land that we knew.  Golden eagles 2-miles from home,
antelope, 60-mph dirt road, raw milk - life was memorable.  All things
end - no sense trying to return to something that was - it all
changes.
Craig can chime in - he lived north of where we lived.
mao

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[clay]

Subaru and granola are the staples of Seattle or PDX.  But you have to have the 
PNW twist to anything else.  The folks here like to bugger up real food by 
giving it a tweak.  Not ever a good thing.

clay



On Jun 22, 2013, at 3:57 PM, Brian Toscano wrote:

 Colorado Springs is semi-arid.  The soil is often just sand.  There is no
 major water source nearby.  The drinking water comes from far away places
 through a series of pipes and tunnels.  As far as the Subaru's and granola,
 Dan you should continue to live in your cesspools and sinkholes known as
 the Midwest and Florida since you seem to know very little about the area.
 
 
 
 
 On Sat, Jun 22, 2013 at 9:05 AM, WILTON wilt...@nc.rr.com wrote:
 
 Co. Springs looked mighty good to me, but I didn't get out into the
 desert. 'Course, that was on visits from Greenland and after 2½ years in
 Mojave Desert (George AFB, Victorville, CA.)   ;)
 
 Wilton
 
 - Original Message - From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
 To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Saturday, June 22, 2013 9:25 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300
 
 
 
 With the current drought, I guess the answer would be barely. However,
 in Oregon where we came from and may move back to again, there is more
 than enough water most of the time.
 
 Kevin in the port, Colorado
 
 
 I had an opportunity most people will snap up in a second.  It was to
 move to the CO Springs area for work.  I went out and looked around, and
 decided I could not live in a desert, even though the MBCA HQ was there.
 
 __**_
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 http://www.okiebenz.com/**archive/http://www.okiebenz.com/archive/
 
 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Dan Penoff]

Not in CS.  Definitely a meat and potatoes crowd for the most part.  No tofu 
that I ever saw.  Just a lot of the outdoorsy stuff, hence the Subarus.  And 
Jeeps.

Dan


On Jun 22, 2013, at 8:28 PM, clay wrote:

 Subaru and granola are the staples of Seattle or PDX.  But you have to have 
 the PNW twist to anything else.  The folks here like to bugger up real food 
 by giving it a tweak.  Not ever a good thing.
 
 clay
 


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Craig]

On Sat, 22 Jun 2013 18:47:02 -0500 Mountain Man maontin@gmail.com
wrote:

 There is nothing bad to say about CSpgs except that today it appears as
 if the idiocy of housing development that is the ruination of much of
 the beauty we knew 25 years ago is relentless.

It's amazing the changes that have occurred.


 We learned to enjoy the wonder of the beauty of the grasses in all
 seasons especially the Fall when they dried out and the colors were
 immense.  Plenty of natural diversity and beauty in all the open land
 that we knew.  Golden eagles 2-miles from home, antelope, 60-mph dirt
 road, raw milk - life was memorable.

We had deer, antelope, LARGE owls, badgers, skunks 

We also had a 523' deep well. Once we got rid of the iron-fixing
bacteria, the water was fine.


 Craig can chime in - he lived north of where we lived.

I was listening to Tom Minnery of Focus on the Family talking about the
Black Forest fire (where we lived before we moved out to the plains). He
said that it's much drier there now than it was 20 years ago. I thought
it was dry enough then.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Craig]

On Sat, 22 Jun 2013 20:39:21 -0400 Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 Not in CS.  Definitely a meat and potatoes crowd for the most part.  No
 tofu that I ever saw.  Just a lot of the outdoorsy stuff, hence the
 Subarus.  And Jeeps.

We had a 1961 Willys Utility Wagon with a Ford 302. It went really well
and got better mileage than the '59 Wagon we had with the Hurrican inline
6 cylinder engine.


Craig

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Dan Penoff]

How much do you want for it?  I'll give you $500.

Dan collecting W140 chassis cars now

On Jun 21, 2013, at 1:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had 
 $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
 silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
 seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Nfs at this time. How many 140's do you have? I have 4. 

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 12:29 PM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 How much do you want for it?  I'll give you $500.
 
 Dan collecting W140 chassis cars now
 
 On Jun 21, 2013, at 1:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 
 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had 
 $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
 silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
 seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 10:29 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 How much do you want for it?  I'll give you $500.

 Dan collecting W140 chassis cars now


I don't think it's a 140 but an E320 Special Edition (made only in '95 to
commemorate the last year of the 124 chassis IIRC).

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Alex Chamberlain]

On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 10:40 AM, Alex Chamberlain
apchamberl...@gmail.comwrote:


 On Fri, Jun 21, 2013 at 10:29 AM, Dan Penoff d...@penoff.com wrote:

 How much do you want for it?  I'll give you $500.

 Dan collecting W140 chassis cars now


 I don't think it's a 140 but an E320 Special Edition (made only in '95 to
 commemorate the last year of the 124 chassis IIRC).


Or an E300 normally aspirated 606 diesel Special Edition, which is pretty
rare.

Alex
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Mitch Haley]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk. 


On a certain chainsaw forum, when somebody says they found a $500 saw at a 
garage sale for $25 and talked the seller down to $15, it's become obligatory to 
say You suck.


By SE, do you mean it's got the Sportline style seats, leather shift knob, etc?
Then let me be the first to say you suck.

Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[clay]

You suck!

My car is at the body shop and damage is greater than the adjuster decided.  
Call went to the other side and now it is up in the air.  Nationwide tried to 
lowball the repair cost on their share.  USAA is not involved, since SWMBA 
dropped collision on the car.  Roller coaster ride

clay


On Jun 21, 2013, at 10:28 AM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had 
 $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
 silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
 seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk. 
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 Sent from my iPhone
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Kevin Kraly]

It sure is nice to get an awesome buy like that every once in a while. The 
other day, I was able to get a radio controlled truck used for 50 bucks. It's 
worth about $100, and all it needed was a set of front Driveshafts to restore 
the four-wheel-drive for $15 and reprogramming the receiver so that it would 
brake and go into reverse. 10 minutes later,  it was working as good as new.
Kevin in Laporte Colorado, no Mercedes diesel yet

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 11:44 AM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had 
 $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
 silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
 seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk.
 
 On a certain chainsaw forum, when somebody says they found a $500 saw at a 
 garage sale for $25 and talked the seller down to $15, it's become obligatory 
 to say You suck.
 
 By SE, do you mean it's got the Sportline style seats, leather shift knob, 
 etc?
 Then let me be the first to say you suck.
 
 Mitch.
 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

No special edition

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 12:44 PM, Mitch Haley m...@voyager.net wrote:

 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had 
 $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
 silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
 seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk.
 
 On a certain chainsaw forum, when somebody says they found a $500 saw at a 
 garage sale for $25 and talked the seller down to $15, it's become obligatory 
 to say You suck.
 
 By SE, do you mean it's got the Sportline style seats, leather shift knob, 
 etc?
 Then let me be the first to say you suck.
 
 Mitch.
 
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Dieselhead]

Maybe Kleb will give you a deal on a E300 D  I hear he has a few extras now.


You suck!

My car is at the body shop and damage is greater than the adjuster 
decided.  Call went to the other side and now it is up in the air. 
Nationwide tried to lowball the repair cost on their share.  USAA is 
not involved, since SWMBA dropped collision on the car.  Roller 
coaster ride


clay


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Randy Bennell]

On 21/06/2013 12:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had $500 
in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk.



Get the For Sale sign on it quick.

Remember There is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes

Randy

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Mitch Haley]

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

No special edition


So it's a five seater?

What did they call the '93 190E that was like the earlier 4 seat Sportline but 
called something else? I thought it was Special Edition.


Mitch.

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Rich Thomas]

So what is going on with the 4 140's?

--R


On 6/21/13 1:32 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

Nfs at this time. How many 140's do you have? I have 4.





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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

Whoever says that does not know a thing about mb's except to take it to a shop 
and pay somebody else to work on it.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 On 21/06/2013 12:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had 
 $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
 silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
 seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk.
 Get the For Sale sign on it quick.
 
 Remember There is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes
 
 Randy
 
 ___
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Randy Bennell]

Well, I know you have a yard full of old MB's that might yield parts but 
even so, I am not prepared to agree with you.


I am currently working on a free boat that I got in the late summer of 
2010.
So far, I have about $500 in it in parts and no idea how much time and I 
have yet to have it in the water. I keep finding more things wrong with 
it. Most recent is that the trim won't go up.


I don't need the boat and I just want to re-sell it but it has no value 
as it is unless I want to part it out and take the hull to the scrap 
dealer, which I am reluctant to do, because I like the boat. It has a 
nice shape to it and I think it would be a shame to destroy it.


So, the bottom line, is that I will not really break even on this poor 
old boat but I will preserve it for a while.


No such thing as a cheap boat either.

Randy who cannot resist a bargain



On 21/06/2013 2:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

Whoever says that does not know a thing about mb's except to take it to a shop 
and pay somebody else to work on it.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:


On 21/06/2013 12:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had $500 
in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. It's 
silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no heated 
seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk.

Get the For Sale sign on it quick.

Remember There is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes

Randy

___




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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Rick Knoble]

 Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 15:09:57 -0500
 From: rbenn...@bennell.ca
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300


 So, the bottom line, is that I will not really break even on this poor
 old boat but I will preserve it for a while.

 No such thing as a cheap boat either.


The two happiest days in a boat owners life are the day he buys it...
and the day he sells it.  What is a boat technically? A hole in the water in 
which 
you throw money... I could go on.

And on the cheap Benz note, I just missed a low mileage 95 e300d for $1900 a
couple weeks ago. I kicked myself for that one.

Rick  
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[WILTON]

10 or 12 years ago, a friend, Tyndal, at lunch mentioned that he might buy a 
boat.  Another, mutual friend, Larry, already had a boat that sat on a 
trailer in his back yard.  I said to Tyndal, Why don't you just buy half of 
Larry's boat?  Then, you'll each have only half a boat sitting.  If you buy 
another boat, you'll each have a whole boat sitting.  He didn't follow my 
advice, though; Larry finally gave his boat to his son; Tyndal's whole boat 
still just sits.


Wilton

- Original Message - 
From: Rick Knoble rickkno...@hotmail.com

To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Friday, June 21, 2013 4:37 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300



Date: Fri, 21 Jun 2013 15:09:57 -0500
From: rbenn...@bennell.ca
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] 95 e300




So, the bottom line, is that I will not really break even on this poor
old boat but I will preserve it for a while.

No such thing as a cheap boat either.



The two happiest days in a boat owners life are the day he buys it...
and the day he sells it. What is a boat technically? A hole in the water in 
which

you throw money... I could go on.

And on the cheap Benz note, I just missed a low mileage 95 e300d for $1900 a
couple weeks ago. I kicked myself for that one.

Rick
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Chris James]

Yes, Kaleb's '95 E300D is both a five seater  Special Edition!

It was the Limited Edition '93 190E 2.6 that had the four place
black/red sportline seating package.

The '95 W124, '00 W202  '02 W210 all had Special Edition model's

For 1993 the W201 had two Limited Edition model's.

Finally the 1999 W140 had an S500 Grand Edition


I think that covers all of the '90s  '00s sedan model Editions.


On 6/21/2013 3:42 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:

Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:

No special edition


So it's a five seater?

What did they call the '93 190E that was like the earlier 4 seat
Sportline but called something else? I thought it was Special
Edition.

Mitch.



--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[clay]

So, my now totaled E300 is special and worth much more.  I need to make a case 
for recouping appropriate value for the car against Nationwide.  They are going 
to lowball an offer, so I can use all the aid in putting a value on the remains.

Damage is to the left fender and suspension.  Wheel is cocked and will require 
work to re-align and debugger.  Front corner is crinkled, but shop says that 
slow and steady work to reshape the sheet metal would fix that instead of 
welding a new inner panel on and taking all the systems off to do that.

I drove the car to the body shop, and they did offer the car for salvage 
purchase.

Anybody need a nice car with 189k?  Otherwise I have to part it and hope that I 
get good money for the engine and trans, as well as interior, doors, etc.

clay



On Jun 21, 2013, at 3:55 PM, Chris James wrote:

 
 Yes, Kaleb's '95 E300D is both a five seater  Special Edition!
 
 It was the Limited Edition '93 190E 2.6 that had the four place
 black/red sportline seating package.
 
 The '95 W124, '00 W202  '02 W210 all had Special Edition model's
 
 For 1993 the W201 had two Limited Edition model's.
 
 Finally the 1999 W140 had an S500 Grand Edition
 
 
 I think that covers all of the '90s  '00s sedan model Editions.
 
 
 On 6/21/2013 3:42 PM, Mitch Haley wrote:
 Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 No special edition
 
 So it's a five seater?
 
 What did they call the '93 190E that was like the earlier 4 seat
 Sportline but called something else? I thought it was Special
 Edition.
 
 Mitch.
 
 
 -- 
 Chris J.
 MBCA Peachtree section
 Past MB Models:
 '85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E
 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Chris James]

Forgot to include this link...

http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3156724-post18.html

Not sure it really adds any meaningful value to the car (at least $$ 
wise, the additional equipment is of course very nice), but if your 
E300D is in fact a Special Edition, can't hurt to try.


Good luck! :-)


On 6/21/2013 8:12 PM, clay wrote:

So, my now totaled E300 is special and worth much more.  I need to
make a case for recouping appropriate value for the car against
Nationwide.  They are going to lowball an offer, so I can use all the
aid in putting a value on the remains.



--
Chris J.
MBCA Peachtree section
Past MB Models:
'85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[clay]

Either it was loaded out with options or it is the SE.  Has the phone, CD 
changer, burl, 7 hole wheels, all records since new.

sadly there is a really nice emerald green SE at the PnP

clay

On Jun 21, 2013, at 5:35 PM, Chris James wrote:

 
 Forgot to include this link...
 
 http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/3156724-post18.html
 
 Not sure it really adds any meaningful value to the car (at least $$ wise, 
 the additional equipment is of course very nice), but if your E300D is in 
 fact a Special Edition, can't hurt to try.
 
 Good luck! :-)
 
 
 On 6/21/2013 8:12 PM, clay wrote:
 So, my now totaled E300 is special and worth much more.  I need to
 make a case for recouping appropriate value for the car against
 Nationwide.  They are going to lowball an offer, so I can use all the
 aid in putting a value on the remains.
 
 
 -- 
 Chris J.
 MBCA Peachtree section
 Past MB Models:
 '85 190D 2.2, '94 E420, '87 260E
 
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com


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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Kevin Kraly]

The letters that make up the word BOAT stand for Break Out Another Thousand!  
Also known as a hole in the water that keeps swallowing your money. Yes, I am a 
boat owner. I have a newer boat, so I paid my money upfront.  Do you know the 
two happiest days in a boat owners life? The first one is a day he buys it, and 
the second one is the day he sells it! Hopefully, we'll  Have the time to get 
our boat on the water this year.
Kevin in Laporte Colorado

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 2:09 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:

 Well, I know you have a yard full of old MB's that might yield parts but even 
 so, I am not prepared to agree with you.
 
 I am currently working on a free boat that I got in the late summer of 2010.
 So far, I have about $500 in it in parts and no idea how much time and I have 
 yet to have it in the water. I keep finding more things wrong with it. Most 
 recent is that the trim won't go up.
 
 I don't need the boat and I just want to re-sell it but it has no value as it 
 is unless I want to part it out and take the hull to the scrap dealer, which 
 I am reluctant to do, because I like the boat. It has a nice shape to it and 
 I think it would be a shame to destroy it.
 
 So, the bottom line, is that I will not really break even on this poor old 
 boat but I will preserve it for a while.
 
 No such thing as a cheap boat either.
 
 Randy who cannot resist a bargain
 
 
 
 On 21/06/2013 2:56 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 Whoever says that does not know a thing about mb's except to take it to a 
 shop and pay somebody else to work on it.
 
 Sent from my iPhone
 
 On Jun 21, 2013, at 2:43 PM, Randy Bennell rbenn...@bennell.ca wrote:
 
 On 21/06/2013 12:28 PM, Kaleb C. Striplin wrote:
 A dealer customer of mine got in a 95 e300 SE on trade last week. They had 
 $500 in it. I gave them a couple hundred on top of that and it's mine. 
 It's silver/grey, 169k miles. Has the SE wheels and the burl wood but no 
 heated seats etc. does have the build in phone and cd changer in the trunk.
 Get the For Sale sign on it quick.
 
 Remember There is no such thing as a cheap Mercedes
 
 Randy
 
 ___
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Dieselhead]

The letters that make up the word BOAT stand for Break Out Another 
Thousand!  Also known as a hole in the water that keeps swallowing 
your money. Yes, I am a boat owner. I have a newer boat, so I paid 
my money upfront.  Do you know the two happiest days in a boat 
owners life? The first one is a day he buys it, and the second one 
is the day he sells it! Hopefully, we'll  Have the time to get our 
boat on the water this year.

Kevin in Laporte Colorado


They have enough water for a boat in CO?

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Re: [MBZ] 95 e300

[Kevin Kraly]

With the current drought, I guess the answer would be barely. However, in 
Oregon where we came from and may move back to again, there is more than enough 
water most of the time.
Kevin in the port, Colorado

Sent from my iPhone

On Jun 21, 2013, at 10:08 PM, Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com wrote:

 The letters that make up the word BOAT stand for Break Out Another Thousand! 
  Also known as a hole in the water that keeps swallowing your money. Yes, I 
 am a boat owner. I have a newer boat, so I paid my money upfront.  Do you 
 know the two happiest days in a boat owners life? The first one is a day he 
 buys it, and the second one is the day he sells it! Hopefully, we'll  Have 
 the time to get our boat on the water this year.
 Kevin in Laporte Colorado
 
 They have enough water for a boat in CO?
 
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

[Rolf]

Funny they always change their mind when they find out its a diesel.

Sent via string from my tin can.

Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

Rolf r...@winmutt.com writes:

 $40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?

A legitimate muffler shop will not weld in a test pipe.  They would get
huge fines if caught removing a cat for a customer.  They might sell you
one, and you can then do with it what you will under your own liability.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

[Rolf]

$40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?

On 10/8/2012 4:39 PM, Tim C wrote:

On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net  wrote:

Decision time.

You prefer the sound and smell of having done it right, and from prior
comments it seems like you'd rather go the correct route anyway.  $585
seems like a good price, and you were interested enough to look for
it.

I suspect you'd regret passing it up.

Best,
-Tim
(Might make a different choice on his own cars.)

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

[Max Dillon]

Yeah, unless Obama starts a government hand-out program for MB parts, I'm 
probably going that route.

Anybody know the deal with junkyards not able to legally sell used catalytic 
converters?
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300
'87 300TD

Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:

$40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?

On 10/8/2012 4:39 PM, Tim C wrote:
 On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:
 Decision time.
 You prefer the sound and smell of having done it right, and from
prior
 comments it seems like you'd rather go the correct route anyway. 
$585
 seems like a good price, and you were interested enough to look for
 it.

 I suspect you'd regret passing it up.

 Best,
 -Tim
 (Might make a different choice on his own cars.)

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

[John Reames]

Can't you convince them that it's a resonator or a pre-muffler or something?? 
Everyone knows that catalysts have O2 sensors near them.

--
John W Reames
jream...@verizon.net
Home: +14106646986
Mobile: +14437915905

On Oct 12, 2012, at 9:54, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 Yeah, unless Obama starts a government hand-out program for MB parts, I'm 
 probably going that route.
 
 Anybody know the deal with junkyards not able to legally sell used catalytic 
 converters?
 -- 
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300
 '87 300TD
 
 Rolf r...@winmutt.com wrote:
 
 $40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?
 
 On 10/8/2012 4:39 PM, Tim C wrote:
 On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
 wrote:
 Decision time.
 You prefer the sound and smell of having done it right, and from
 prior
 comments it seems like you'd rather go the correct route anyway. 
 $585
 seems like a good price, and you were interested enough to look for
 it.
 
 I suspect you'd regret passing it up.
 
 Best,
 -Tim
 (Might make a different choice on his own cars.)
 
 ___
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 http://mail.okiebenz.com/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_okiebenz.com
 
 
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

[Allan Streib]

Rolf r...@winmutt.com writes:

 $40 for a test pipe welded in at the local shop?

A legitimate muffler shop will not weld in a test pipe.  They would get
huge fines if caught removing a cat for a customer.  They might sell you
one, and you can then do with it what you will under your own liability.

Allan
-- 
1983 300D
1979 300SD


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

[Rick Knoble]

Si señor then you go to the illegitimate shop. 

Rick
Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 12, 2012, at 10:44 PM, Allan Streib str...@cs.indiana.edu wrote:

 A legitimate muffler shop will not weld in a test pipe.
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rusted out catalytic converter, leaking patch pipes

[Tim C]

On Mon, Oct 8, 2012 at 4:30 PM, Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:
 Decision time.

You prefer the sound and smell of having done it right, and from prior
comments it seems like you'd rather go the correct route anyway.  $585
seems like a good price, and you were interested enough to look for
it.

I suspect you'd regret passing it up.

Best,
-Tim
(Might make a different choice on his own cars.)

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 no block heater?

[Hans Neureiter]

I was told that the cord was an option. Heater should be installed.

On Fri, Nov 11, 2011 at 7:20 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 This morning I thought I'd plug in my E300 for a bit before leaving the
 house, but I couldn't find the block heater cord. Wonder if I'm missing
 just the cord or the heater too. Anyone else with an E300 have an opinion?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 no block heater?

[Max]

I know that's true for earlier cars/engines, my '87 wagon still has the coupon. 
Not sure if MB continued that for the OM606 or not.
-- 
Max Dillon
Charleston SC
'95 E300, '87 300TD

Hans Neureiter diese...@gmail.com wrote:

I was told that the cord was an option. Heater should be installed.

On Fri, Nov 11, 2011 at 7:20 AM, Max meadedil...@bellsouth.net wrote:

 This morning I thought I'd plug in my E300 for a bit before leaving the
 house, but I couldn't find the block heater cord. Wonder if I'm missing
 just the cord or the heater too. Anyone else with an E300 have an opinion?
 --
 Max Dillon
 Charleston SC
 '95 E300, '87 300TD
_

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-- 
Hans Neureiter, Katy, TX
'82 300SD
'01 VW New Beetle 1.9L TDI
_

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

Ned,

Thanks for the confirmation!  Just found your reply in my spam filter, along 
with a few others...

-Max





From: ned kleinhenz ned.kleinh...@gmail.com
To: Mercedes List Mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:19:40 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Max,
I'm on my second '95 E300D and I believe these things seem to take a while
to warm up.
My old 300 TD, a naturally aspirated 123, always automatically started the
heater blower at the same spot less than 1.5 miles from my house, at any OAT
(outdoor air temp).

On the other hand, these NA 606's take at least 3 or 4 miles before the temp
gauge rises enough to audibly kick up the fan.   Even with a brand new water
pump and thermostat.

Ned
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

you have to get one of the blinking light tools from ebay, or 
build your own.


On 2/8/2011 10:27 AM, Max Dillon wrote:

Really!  I'd love to be able to pull codes for the HVAC, if that is indeed
possible.  If you know how, please share!

-Max





From: Peter Frederickpsf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, February 8, 2011 11:22:54 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Most likely a bad temperature sensor thermistor or a bad connection of the PBCU
-- I need to resolder the one in my mom's TE.  I think the connections at the
large connectors on the sides have cracked, as I get constant clicking from the
vacuum control solenoid as it switches modes.

You should be able to pull trouble codes from a 95.

Peter


-Original Message-

From: Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 10:04 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Thanks Peter.  Now that I've been paying attention to it, I realize that
sometimes the blower fan kicks in regardless of very cold coolant temperature,
so I've got some HVAC troubleshooting in my future.  The fan also seems to go to

high and stay there, so maybe the PBU is the culprit.

-Max





From: Peter Frederickpsf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 11:42:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear about

a mile and a half from the house.

Peter

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-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3428 - Release Date: 02/07/11




--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com



-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3432 - Release Date: 02/09/11


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Rolf]

The difference is quite simple. The 87 is turbo the 95 is not. The turbo 
is a very efficient heat pump.


-Rolf

On 02/07/2011 07:56 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Thanks to Curt and Loren for their inputs.

Tonight I timed the warm-up, and it was about 4 minutes once I left work at
ambient temperature of about 50 degrees.  When it was below freezing earlier
this winter, it took longer but I think 10 minutes is an exaggeration.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Max Dillon
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 11:38 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the big
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up
(compared
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an E300
(or
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines
need
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+
degrees
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my '87,
and
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe with
each
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more time
to
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for
opening
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the
t-stat
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

Rolf,

Yes, I think I'm beginning to understand now that what I'm observing is normal. 

Thanks,
Max





From: Rolf r...@winmutt.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, February 9, 2011 1:06:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

The difference is quite simple. The 87 is turbo the 95 is not. The turbo 
is a very efficient heat pump.

-Rolf

On 02/07/2011 07:56 PM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Thanks to Curt and Loren for their inputs.

 Tonight I timed the warm-up, and it was about 4 minutes once I left work at
 ambient temperature of about 50 degrees.  When it was below freezing earlier
 this winter, it took longer but I think 10 minutes is an exaggeration.

 -Max

 -Original Message-
 From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
 On Behalf Of Max Dillon
 Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 11:38 AM
 To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

 Dieselvolk,

 I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the big
 issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up
 (compared
 to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an E300
 (or
 a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines
 need
 more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+
 degrees
 C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my '87,
 and
 longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe with
 each
 generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more time
 to
 warm up?

 Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for
 opening
 and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the
 t-stat
 installation.

 Very respectfully,
 /s/
 Max Dillon
 '87 300TD 333k miles
 '95 E300 278k miles
 '73 Balboa 20
 Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Rolf]

Usually on a cold morning as soon as I'm moving I will keep it in the 3k 
range just to get it warmed up quickly.


-Rolf

On 02/09/2011 03:09 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Rolf,

Yes, I think I'm beginning to understand now that what I'm observing is normal.

Thanks,
Max





From: Rolfr...@winmutt.com
To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, February 9, 2011 1:06:27 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

The difference is quite simple. The 87 is turbo the 95 is not. The turbo
is a very efficient heat pump.

-Rolf

On 02/07/2011 07:56 PM, Max Dillon wrote:

Thanks to Curt and Loren for their inputs.

Tonight I timed the warm-up, and it was about 4 minutes once I left work at
ambient temperature of about 50 degrees.  When it was below freezing earlier
this winter, it took longer but I think 10 minutes is an exaggeration.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Max Dillon
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 11:38 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the big
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up
(compared
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an E300
(or
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines
need
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+
degrees
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my '87,
and
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe with
each
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more time
to
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for
opening
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the
t-stat
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

So we're talking about the data port under the hood next to the battery?  

No money for buying more tools now, I tapped out that well last fall with my 
suspension work.  Maybe closer to summer when AC becomes a requirement...

-max





From: Kaleb C. Striplin ka...@striplin.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Wed, February 9, 2011 12:09:21 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

you have to get one of the blinking light tools from ebay, or 
build your own.

On 2/8/2011 10:27 AM, Max Dillon wrote:
 Really!  I'd love to be able to pull codes for the HVAC, if that is indeed
 possible.  If you know how, please share!

 -Max




 
 From: Peter Frederickpsf...@earthlink.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Tue, February 8, 2011 11:22:54 AM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

 Most likely a bad temperature sensor thermistor or a bad connection of the 
PBCU
 -- I need to resolder the one in my mom's TE.  I think the connections at the
 large connectors on the sides have cracked, as I get constant clicking from 
the
 vacuum control solenoid as it switches modes.

 You should be able to pull trouble codes from a 95.

 Peter


 -Original Message-
 From: Max Dillonmeadedil...@bellsouth.net
 Sent: Feb 8, 2011 10:04 AM
 To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

 Thanks Peter.  Now that I've been paying attention to it, I realize that
 sometimes the blower fan kicks in regardless of very cold coolant 
temperature,
 so I've got some HVAC troubleshooting in my future.  The fan also seems to 
 go 
to

 high and stay there, so maybe the PBU is the culprit.

 -Max




 
 From: Peter Frederickpsf...@earthlink.net
 To: Mercedes Discussion Listmercedes@okiebenz.com
 Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 11:42:36 PM
 Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

 That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear 
about

 a mile and a half from the house.

 Peter

 ___
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 To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to:
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 -
 No virus found in this message.
 Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
 Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3428 - Release Date: 02/07/11



-- 
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
  95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
  91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
  85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com



-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3432 - Release Date: 02/09/11


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Kaleb C. Striplin]

yep

On 2/9/2011 11:22 AM, Max Dillon wrote:

So we're talking about the data port under the hood next to the battery?

No money for buying more tools now, I tapped out that well last fall with my
suspension work.  Maybe closer to summer when AC becomes a requirement...

-max






--
Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
 95 E300, 94 S500, 92 500SEL, 92 300SD, 92 300E 4Matic,
 91 350SDL, 91 300D, 89 560SEL, 87 300SDL x2, 85 380SE 5.0 Euro,
 85 190D, 84 190D, 84 300D euro manny, 76 240D, 76 300D,
http://www.okiebenz.com



-
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 10.0.1204 / Virus Database: 1435/3432 - Release Date: 02/09/11


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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Mike Esh]

The fan probably needs to oiled (M1) if you can hear it a mile and a half from 
your house.  :) hehe.
Mike

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 7, 2011, at 11:42 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

 That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear 
 about a mile and a half from the house.
 
 Peter
 
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Peter Frederick]

It does need to be replaced, but what I was saying is that it blows hard enough 
to hear, meaning the heater air temp is higher than that inside the car.

4 miles is a bit long, I'd check to make sure the aux pump is running to 
circulate water to the heater core.  If it is not, it takes a long, long time 
to heat up, in spite of the fact that the engine temp comes up faster than that.

Peter

-Original Message-
From: Mike Esh michael...@me.com
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 7:01 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

The fan probably needs to oiled (M1) if you can hear it a mile and a half from 
your house.  :) hehe.
Mike

Sent from my iPad

On Feb 7, 2011, at 11:42 PM, Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net wrote:

 That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear 
 about a mile and a half from the house.
 
 Peter
 
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

As in coolant circulating pump?  Yes.  My question arises due to the difference 
in engine temperature (gauge) behavior, not in how quickly heat is produced in 
the passenger compartment.

I'm suspicious of my t-stat, but I'd like confirmation from some other owners 
that long warm-up compared to a OM603 turbo is normal.

-Max





From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Does it have an auxiliary pump like a 123?
Gerry

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I know the OM603 is slower to warm up than the iron head Diesels.  It is 
because the engine is more thermally efficient.  It might make sense that 
the 606 takes a little longer.  But those with 606s are in a better 
position to answer.  I've never driven one.

 x


Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the 
big
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up 
(compared
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an 
E300 (or
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines 
need
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+ 
degrees
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my 
'87, and
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe 
with each
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more 
time to
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for 
opening
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the 
t-stat
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

Thanks Peter.  Now that I've been paying attention to it, I realize that 
sometimes the blower fan kicks in regardless of very cold coolant temperature, 
so I've got some HVAC troubleshooting in my future.  The fan also seems to go 
to 
high and stay there, so maybe the PBU is the culprit.

-Max





From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 11:42:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear 
about 
a mile and a half from the house.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Peter Frederick]

Not only do they warm up slowly, but if you get stuck sitting somewhere (like 
for a slow train crossing) in bitter cold weather, they will cool off while you 
are stopped!

A bad t-stat usually shows up as an engine that never gets up to operating temp 
in the winter (80C).  My first 300D had a bad one, ran fine in the summer, but 
once fall got here, the temp would never get up to 80.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 9:55 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

As in coolant circulating pump?  Yes.  My question arises due to the 
difference 
in engine temperature (gauge) behavior, not in how quickly heat is produced in 
the passenger compartment.

I'm suspicious of my t-stat, but I'd like confirmation from some other owners 
that long warm-up compared to a OM603 turbo is normal.

-Max





From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Does it have an auxiliary pump like a 123?
Gerry

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I know the OM603 is slower to warm up than the iron head Diesels.  It is 
because the engine is more thermally efficient.  It might make sense that 
the 606 takes a little longer.  But those with 606s are in a better 
position to answer.  I've never driven one.

 x


Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the 
big
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up 
(compared
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an 
E300 (or
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines 
need
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+ 
degrees
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my 
'87, and
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe 
with each
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more 
time to
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for 
opening
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the 
t-stat
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Peter Frederick]

Most likely a bad temperature sensor thermistor or a bad connection of the PBCU 
-- I need to resolder the one in my mom's TE.  I think the connections at the 
large connectors on the sides have cracked, as I get constant clicking from the 
vacuum control solenoid as it switches modes.

You should be able to pull trouble codes from a 95.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 10:04 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Thanks Peter.  Now that I've been paying attention to it, I realize that 
sometimes the blower fan kicks in regardless of very cold coolant temperature, 
so I've got some HVAC troubleshooting in my future.  The fan also seems to go 
to 
high and stay there, so maybe the PBU is the culprit.

-Max





From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 11:42:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear 
about 
a mile and a half from the house.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

Thanks Peter - if you're seeing similar behavior with you OM606 then I feel 
better.  I've got plenty of other parts I need to change, don't need to add to 
the list...

-Max





From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, February 8, 2011 11:20:31 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Not only do they warm up slowly, but if you get stuck sitting somewhere (like 
for a slow train crossing) in bitter cold weather, they will cool off while you 
are stopped!

A bad t-stat usually shows up as an engine that never gets up to operating temp 
in the winter (80C).  My first 300D had a bad one, ran fine in the summer, but 
once fall got here, the temp would never get up to 80.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 9:55 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

As in coolant circulating pump?  Yes.  My question arises due to the 
difference 

in engine temperature (gauge) behavior, not in how quickly heat is produced in 
the passenger compartment.

I'm suspicious of my t-stat, but I'd like confirmation from some other owners 
that long warm-up compared to a OM603 turbo is normal.

-Max





From: Gerry Archer arche...@embarqmail.com
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 10:11:20 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Does it have an auxiliary pump like a 123?
Gerry

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I know the OM603 is slower to warm up than the iron head Diesels.  It is 
because the engine is more thermally efficient.  It might make sense that 
the 606 takes a little longer.  But those with 606s are in a better 
position to answer.  I've never driven one.

 x


Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the 
big
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up 
(compared
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an 
E300 (or
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines 
need
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+ 
degrees
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my 
'87, and
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe 
with each
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more 
time to
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for 
opening
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the 
t-stat
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

Really!  I'd love to be able to pull codes for the HVAC, if that is indeed 
possible.  If you know how, please share!

-Max





From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, February 8, 2011 11:22:54 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Most likely a bad temperature sensor thermistor or a bad connection of the PBCU 
-- I need to resolder the one in my mom's TE.  I think the connections at the 
large connectors on the sides have cracked, as I get constant clicking from the 
vacuum control solenoid as it switches modes.

You should be able to pull trouble codes from a 95.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 10:04 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Thanks Peter.  Now that I've been paying attention to it, I realize that 
sometimes the blower fan kicks in regardless of very cold coolant temperature, 
so I've got some HVAC troubleshooting in my future.  The fan also seems to go 
to 

high and stay there, so maybe the PBU is the culprit.

-Max





From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 11:42:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear 
about 

a mile and a half from the house.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Peter Frederick]

Mine's a 603, 87 300D, but you can pull basic codes from the code reader 
socket.  I believe there is a procedure using the front panel on the later 
models, but I'm not sure if that applies to W210 and later only or later model 
W124s.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 10:27 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Really!  I'd love to be able to pull codes for the HVAC, if that is indeed 
possible.  If you know how, please share!

-Max





From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Tue, February 8, 2011 11:22:54 AM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Most likely a bad temperature sensor thermistor or a bad connection of the 
PBCU 
-- I need to resolder the one in my mom's TE.  I think the connections at the 
large connectors on the sides have cracked, as I get constant clicking from 
the 
vacuum control solenoid as it switches modes.

You should be able to pull trouble codes from a 95.

Peter


-Original Message-
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
Sent: Feb 8, 2011 10:04 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Thanks Peter.  Now that I've been paying attention to it, I realize that 
sometimes the blower fan kicks in regardless of very cold coolant 
temperature, 
so I've got some HVAC troubleshooting in my future.  The fan also seems to go 
to 

high and stay there, so maybe the PBU is the culprit.

-Max





From: Peter Frederick psf...@earthlink.net
To: Mercedes Discussion List mercedes@okiebenz.com
Sent: Mon, February 7, 2011 11:42:36 PM
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to hear 
about 

a mile and a half from the house.

Peter

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Dieselhead]

I know the OM603 is slower to warm up than the iron head Diesels.  It 
is because the engine is more thermally efficient.  It might make 
sense that the 606 takes a little longer.  But those with 606s are in 
a better position to answer.  I've never driven one.


x



Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the big
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm 
up (compared
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with 
an E300 (or

a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines need
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+ degrees
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than 
my '87, and
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so 
maybe with each

generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more time to
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for opening
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the t-stat
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Curt Raymond]

I don't have a lot of experience with turbo diesels but I don't think that my 
NA diesels (2x 240D, 2x 190D) take particularly long to warm up. In fact 
compared to my gas vehicles ( Dodge Dakota V8, Ford Ranger v6, GMC S15 v6) I 
think the NA diesels warm up faster...
I figure on having heat by the time I hit the center of town when its above 
freezing, thats about 1 mile or 2.5 minutes after first starting the car in the 
morning. If its below freezing I'd figure on about twice that distance. Thats 
not full heat mind you but I figure the heater starts to do something about the 
time the temp needle rises off the peg.

Overall I think 123 cars have slightly better heat than 201, I don't know what 
the factor is that makes that true but I seem to get warm sooner. That said my 
current 190D has working ACC and I do like the set it and forget it nature of 
the temp wheel vs the manual in the 240D.

-Curt

Date: Mon, 7 Feb 2011 08:38:00 -0800 (PST)
From: Max Dillon meadedil...@bellsouth.net
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?
Message-ID: 300292.87957...@web180008.mail.gq1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the big 
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up (compared 
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an E300 
(or 
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines need 
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+ degrees 
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my '87, and 
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe with 
each 
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more time to 
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for opening 
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the t-stat 
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles 
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC


  
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Max Dillon]

Thanks to Curt and Loren for their inputs.

Tonight I timed the warm-up, and it was about 4 minutes once I left work at
ambient temperature of about 50 degrees.  When it was below freezing earlier
this winter, it took longer but I think 10 minutes is an exaggeration.

-Max

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com [mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com]
On Behalf Of Max Dillon
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2011 11:38 AM
To: mercedes@okiebenz.com
Subject: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the big 
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up
(compared 
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an E300
(or 
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines
need 
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+
degrees 
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my '87,
and 
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe with
each 
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more time
to 
warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for
opening 
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the
t-stat 
installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles 
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[ned kleinhenz]

Max,
I'm on my second '95 E300D and I believe these things seem to take a while
to warm up.
My old 300 TD, a naturally aspirated 123, always automatically started the
heater blower at the same spot less than 1.5 miles from my house, at any OAT
(outdoor air temp).

On the other hand, these NA 606's take at least 3 or 4 miles before the temp
gauge rises enough to audibly kick up the fan.   Even with a brand new water
pump and thermostat.

Ned
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Peter Frederick]

That is my experience as well.  Heater blower kicks on loud enough to  
hear about a mile and a half from the house.


Peter

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 with OM606 - how long to reach operating temp?

[Gerry Archer]

Does it have an auxiliary pump like a 123?
Gerry

From: Dieselhead 126die...@gmail.com
I know the OM603 is slower to warm up than the iron head Diesels.  It is 
because the engine is more thermally efficient.  It might make sense that 
the 606 takes a little longer.  But those with 606s are in a better 
position to answer.  I've never driven one.


x



Dieselvolk,

I've been driving my '95 E300 quite a bit now that I've got most of the 
big
issues sorted out, but it really seems to take a long time to warm up 
(compared
to my '87 300TD for instance).  I'd like to know if anyone else with an 
E300 (or
a normally aspirated OM606) also had noticed that these non-turbo engines 
need
more time, for instance about ten minutes of driving, to get up to 80+ 
degrees
C.  When I had my '84 190D, I noticed that it also took longer than my 
'87, and
longer than my '85 300TD which had an OM617 non-turbo engine, so maybe 
with each
generation of OM60x engines in non-turbo form, they need more and more 
time to

warm up?

Background: T-stat is new within last 12 months, tested stove-top for 
opening
and closing prior to installation, has proper MB-spec coolant with the 
t-stat

installation.

Very respectfully,
/s/
Max Dillon
'87 300TD 333k miles
'95 E300 278k miles
'73 Balboa 20
Charleston SC
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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

That's the plan!  You're my witness - first time my 3 year old laid eyes
on it, she said Thanks for the pretty blue car Dad!  In another 12
years when she's learning to drive, I think it will be in fine shape to
keep her safe.

Once I've got the process down, the wagon will get new rear rubber bits
during the winter.

-Max 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Rich Thomas
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 1:08 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

You are gonna be a Benz mech expert pretty soon with all that work.  
Good job, that car will be ready for the next 20 years!

--R

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

 

-Original Message-
From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com
[mailto:mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com] On Behalf Of Dieselhead
Sent: Sunday, August 29, 2010 4:32 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

snip

It is not that bad.  much easier than 123/126.

OK, I can deal with that no problem.  Did a 123 twice using the
all-thread rod/washer/nut stack and a floor jack.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Rich Thomas]

You are gonna be a Benz mech expert pretty soon with all that work.  
Good job, that car will be ready for the next 20 years!


--R

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dieselhead]

You certainly make the spring removal sound easy; I'm almost looking 
forward to the LCA bushings.  In addition to removing the outer 
bolt, I think the bottom bolt for the shock and also the bolt for 
the torsion spring need to be removed.  Is there much tension on the 
torsion spring?


You are right, the shock and torsion link need to be removed.  That 
will be obvious when you tackle the LCA.  There is really nothing 
special about removing the LCA, jus support the car at the rear jack 
points, then put the jack under the LCA, pull the bolt, then loser 
the LCA until the spring is loose.




I'm NOT looking forward to the subframe mounts.  I have a feeling 
that I'll spend an entire day working on those.  I did find a very 
nice write-up, which includes pictures and procedures for making 
wooden approximations of the special tools.



It is not that bad.  much easier than 123/126.



In the meanwhile, I probably will do the LCA bushings next month, 
then some steering components, and then get an alignment.  Subframe 
mounts may very well end up as a winter project.


As far as special tools, I have one box for them, and so anytime I 
need one I generally have to dig through all of them, which keeps me 
from forgetting what's in the box.


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 2:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



NO!   The spring is between the rear subframe and the LCA   The
spring is easy.  put the rear on jackstands under the jack points.
Put the jack under the LCA and remove the outer bolt.  Lower the jack
and catch the spring as it falls out.  Note which pad is top and wich
is bottom.

after this step is done, then put the jack under the diff, remove the
subframe mount bolts.  Lower the jack.


then remove the wheel carrier and a good alignment shop can change
the bushing for a few bucks, and you don't need the special tool.

I am cleaning the garage, and finding tools I forgot i owned.  The
problem with special tools is that unless you are uber organized,
and spend the time to keep everything that way, you can't find the
special tool when you need it.

I am off to HF now to buy my third sawzall type saw, because I
apparently left both mine at Daughter's house  and to buy my
third circular saw, because on in at the north of the US and one is
at the south US... and none here




Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't
that also mean dealing with the suspension spring?  I'm trying to
avoid taking too much apart now.  Subframe mounts are planned for
phase 3, along with the spring link (aka lower control arm)
bushings.  Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that the outer
bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel
carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first.  Oh well, all
new parts much easier to get to and take apart now.

Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening.
I'm sure I could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the
car, but then I wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools!  What a
boring tool box: hammer, vice grips, screw driver, duct tape...

OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle
the other side.  It would be really nice if that special 'ring
wrench' would be delivered by FedEx today.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side.  You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there.  And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the

 bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for

that.

FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.

Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.



Dieselvolk,

Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far.  Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod thrust piece
tool 201 589 13 33 00.  Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.

I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days.  201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.

Put the car up on jacks

Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dieselhead]

It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two 
subframe bolts on that side.  You may as well change the subframe 
mounts while you are there.  And, the LCA should be done at the same 
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the 
bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for 
that.


FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square 
bolts is a set of vice grips.


Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs 
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the 
ground.




Dieselvolk,

Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one 
side; about six hours invested so far.  Special tools definitely 
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only 
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2 
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a 
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod thrust piece 
tool 201 589 13 33 00.  Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside 
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm; 
fortunately I had that size.


I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in 
the next few days.  201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit 
proper torque application for inner bolts.


Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil, 
started removing bolts.  I left the shock in place which held the 
spring link and spring - saving those for later work.  I also left 
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner 
ends quite tight.  Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts 
will be phase 3.


The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place. 
I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no 
amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt.  I 
suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force.  Finally I 
broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal 
cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the 
last strut was out.


Bone-headed mistake so far:  Forgot to mark the position of the 
cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut.  I haven't tried to align 
it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel.  I 
may play around with a laser level in the future, but I will take 
the car in for an alignment when I get all the rubber in the rear 
done.  I may also replace some steering components so only one trip 
to the alignment shop is required.


Two of four struts can not be properly torqued without either 
dropping the subframe or using some special MB tool; camber strut 
and torque strut are not possible with my tool selection. Another 
curiosity, the old nuts were all 19mm, new are all 18mm.


-Max

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't that also 
mean dealing with the suspension spring?  I'm trying to avoid taking too much 
apart now.  Subframe mounts are planned for phase 3, along with the spring link 
(aka lower control arm) bushings.  Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that 
the outer bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel 
carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first.  Oh well, all new parts 
much easier to get to and take apart now.
 
Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening.  I'm sure I 
could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the car, but then I 
wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools!  What a boring tool box: hammer, 
vice grips, screw driver, duct tape...
 
OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle the other 
side.  It would be really nice if that special 'ring wrench' would be delivered 
by FedEx today.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side.  You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there.  And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the
bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for
that.

FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.

Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.


Dieselvolk,

Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far.  Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod thrust piece
tool 201 589 13 33 00.  Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.

I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days.  201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.

Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil,
started removing bolts.  I left the shock in place which held the
spring link and spring - saving those for later work.  I also left
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner
ends quite tight.  Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts
will be phase 3.

The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place.
I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no
amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt.  I
suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force.  Finally I
broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal
cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the
last strut was out.

Bone-headed mistake so far:  Forgot to mark the position of the
cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut.  I haven't tried to align
it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel.  I
may play around with a laser level in the future, but I will take
the car in for an alignment when I get all the rubber in the rear
done.  I may also replace some steering components so only one trip
to the alignment shop is required.

Two of four struts can not be properly torqued without either
dropping the subframe or using some special MB tool; camber strut
and torque strut are not possible with my tool selection. Another
curiosity, the old nuts were all 19mm, new are all 18mm.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Practice makes perfect; second side completed in about 3 hours.  Of course, I 
had all the tools out which saved some time, and also didn't have to use my 
poor man's sawz-all.  I also remembered to mark the tie rod cam bolt.  
 
Once I had both sides done, I used some string and tape to try to point the 
rear tires toward the front.  Second side, where I'd marked the cam bolt, was 
pointed directly at the front tire.  First side I had to make some adjustment 
to dial it in; a set of ramps would have been very helpful.
 
Time to eat lunch, then go for a test drive!
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dillon, Meade M CIV 
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 10:31 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't that also 
mean dealing with the suspension spring?  I'm trying to avoid taking too much 
apart now.  Subframe mounts are planned for phase 3, along with the spring link 
(aka lower control arm) bushings.  Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that 
the outer bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel 
carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first.  Oh well, all new parts 
much easier to get to and take apart now.

Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening.  I'm sure I 
could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the car, but then I 
wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools!  What a boring tool box: hammer, 
vice grips, screw driver, duct tape...

OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle the other 
side.  It would be really nice if that special 'ring wrench' would be delivered 
by FedEx today.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side.  You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there.  And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the
bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for
that.

FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.

Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.


Dieselvolk,

Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far.  Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod thrust piece
tool 201 589 13 33 00.  Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.

I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days.  201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.

Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil,
started removing bolts.  I left the shock in place which held the
spring link and spring - saving those for later work.  I also left
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner
ends quite tight.  Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts
will be phase 3.

The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place.
I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no
amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt.  I
suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force.  Finally I
broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal
cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the
last strut was out.

Bone-headed mistake so far:  Forgot to mark the position of the
cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut.  I haven't tried to align
it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel.  I
may play around with a laser level in the future, but I will take
the car in for an alignment when I get all the rubber in the rear
done.  I may also replace some steering components so only one trip
to the alignment shop is required.

Two of four struts can not be properly torqued without either
dropping the subframe or using some special MB tool; camber strut
and torque strut are not possible with my tool selection. Another
curiosity, the old nuts were all 19mm, new are all 18mm.

-Max

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Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

Test went well, all previous complaints about the suspension are resolved.  Car 
tracks straight and handles bumps and curves with grace.  The right rear tire 
still leans slightly inward at the top, which by process of elimination is 
probably the bushings in the lower control arm.  Left rear tire is pretty much 
straight up and down.  Another month and I'll be funded to purchase more 
parts
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dillon, Meade M CIV 
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 3:54 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



Practice makes perfect; second side completed in about 3 hours.  Of course, I 
had all the tools out which saved some time, and also didn't have to use my 
poor man's sawz-all.  I also remembered to mark the tie rod cam bolt. 

Once I had both sides done, I used some string and tape to try to point the 
rear tires toward the front.  Second side, where I'd marked the cam bolt, was 
pointed directly at the front tire.  First side I had to make some adjustment 
to dial it in; a set of ramps would have been very helpful.

Time to eat lunch, then go for a test drive!

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dillon, Meade M CIV 
SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC,53310
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 10:31 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't that also 
mean dealing with the suspension spring?  I'm trying to avoid taking too much 
apart now.  Subframe mounts are planned for phase 3, along with the spring link 
(aka lower control arm) bushings.  Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that 
the outer bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel 
carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first.  Oh well, all new parts 
much easier to get to and take apart now.

Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening.  I'm sure I 
could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the car, but then I 
wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools!  What a boring tool box: hammer, 
vice grips, screw driver, duct tape...

OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle the other 
side.  It would be really nice if that special 'ring wrench' would be delivered 
by FedEx today.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side.  You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there.  And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the
bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for
that.

FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.

Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.


Dieselvolk,

Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far.  Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod thrust piece
tool 201 589 13 33 00.  Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.

I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days.  201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.

Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil,
started removing bolts.  I left the shock in place which held the
spring link and spring - saving those for later work.  I also left
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner
ends quite tight.  Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts
will be phase 3.

The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place.
I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no
amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt.  I
suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force.  Finally I
broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal
cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the
last strut was out.

Bone-headed mistake so far:  Forgot to mark the position of the
cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut.  I haven't tried to align
it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel.  I
may play around with a laser level

Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dieselhead]

NO!   The spring is between the rear subframe and the LCA   The 
spring is easy.  put the rear on jackstands under the jack points. 
Put the jack under the LCA and remove the outer bolt.  Lower the jack 
and catch the spring as it falls out.  Note which pad is top and wich 
is bottom.


after this step is done, then put the jack under the diff, remove the 
subframe mount bolts.  Lower the jack.



then remove the wheel carrier and a good alignment shop can change 
the bushing for a few bucks, and you don't need the special tool.


I am cleaning the garage, and finding tools I forgot i owned.  The 
problem with special tools is that unless you are uber organized, 
and spend the time to keep everything that way, you can't find the 
special tool when you need it.


I am off to HF now to buy my third sawzall type saw, because I 
apparently left both mine at Daughter's house  and to buy my 
third circular saw, because on in at the north of the US and one is 
at the south US... and none here




Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't 
that also mean dealing with the suspension spring?  I'm trying to 
avoid taking too much apart now.  Subframe mounts are planned for 
phase 3, along with the spring link (aka lower control arm) 
bushings.  Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that the outer 
bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel 
carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first.  Oh well, all 
new parts much easier to get to and take apart now.


Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening. 
I'm sure I could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the 
car, but then I wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools!  What a 
boring tool box: hammer, vice grips, screw driver, duct tape...


OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle 
the other side.  It would be really nice if that special 'ring 
wrench' would be delivered by FedEx today.


-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side.  You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there.  And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the
bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for
that.

FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.

Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.



Dieselvolk,

Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far.  Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod thrust piece
tool 201 589 13 33 00.  Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.

I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days.  201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.

Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil,
started removing bolts.  I left the shock in place which held the
spring link and spring - saving those for later work.  I also left
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner
ends quite tight.  Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts
will be phase 3.

The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod strut was rusted in place.

 I was able to break off the nut end using the breaker bar, but no

amount of pounding would drive out the remainder of the bolt.  I
suspect the rubber bushing absorbed the impact force.  Finally I
broke out my poor man's sawz-all; reciprocating saw with metal
cutting blade, and after about 20 minutes it too yielded and the
last strut was out.

Bone-headed mistake so far:  Forgot to mark the position of the
cam-bolt on inside of the tie-rod strut.  I haven't tried to align
it by eye yet, it is obviously pointed in at front of the wheel.  I
may play around with a laser level in the future, but I will take
the car in for an alignment when I get all the rubber in the rear
done.  I may also replace some steering components so only one trip
to the alignment shop is required.

Two of four struts can not be properly torqued without either
dropping the subframe or using some special MB tool; camber strut
and torque strut are not possible with my tool selection. Another
curiosity, the old nuts were all 19mm, new are all 18mm.

-Max

Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2

[Dillon, Meade M CIV SPAWARSYSCEN-ATLANTIC, 53310]

You certainly make the spring removal sound easy; I'm almost looking forward to 
the LCA bushings.  In addition to removing the outer bolt, I think the bottom 
bolt for the shock and also the bolt for the torsion spring need to be removed. 
 Is there much tension on the torsion spring?
 
I'm NOT looking forward to the subframe mounts.  I have a feeling that I'll 
spend an entire day working on those.  I did find a very nice write-up, which 
includes pictures and procedures for making wooden approximations of the 
special tools.
 
In the meanwhile, I probably will do the LCA bushings next month, then some 
steering components, and then get an alignment.  Subframe mounts may very well 
end up as a winter project.
 
As far as special tools, I have one box for them, and so anytime I need one I 
generally have to dig through all of them, which keeps me from forgetting 
what's in the box.
 
-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 2:48 PM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



NO!   The spring is between the rear subframe and the LCA   The
spring is easy.  put the rear on jackstands under the jack points.
Put the jack under the LCA and remove the outer bolt.  Lower the jack
and catch the spring as it falls out.  Note which pad is top and wich
is bottom.

after this step is done, then put the jack under the diff, remove the
subframe mount bolts.  Lower the jack.


then remove the wheel carrier and a good alignment shop can change
the bushing for a few bucks, and you don't need the special tool.

I am cleaning the garage, and finding tools I forgot i owned.  The
problem with special tools is that unless you are uber organized,
and spend the time to keep everything that way, you can't find the
special tool when you need it.

I am off to HF now to buy my third sawzall type saw, because I
apparently left both mine at Daughter's house  and to buy my
third circular saw, because on in at the north of the US and one is
at the south US... and none here



Yes, I can see that dropping a side would help mucho, but doesn't
that also mean dealing with the suspension spring?  I'm trying to
avoid taking too much apart now.  Subframe mounts are planned for
phase 3, along with the spring link (aka lower control arm)
bushings.  Funny - I thought from the EPC pictures that the outer
bushing for the spring link was in the link, not in the wheel
carrier, guess I should have looked at the car first.  Oh well, all
new parts much easier to get to and take apart now.

Yes, I did remember to raise the axle to level before tightening.
I'm sure I could use a vice grips for most of the fasteners in the
car, but then I wouldn't have an excuse to buy more tools!  What a
boring tool box: hammer, vice grips, screw driver, duct tape...

OK, I've got a few house-keeping jobs and then I'm going to tackle
the other side.  It would be really nice if that special 'ring
wrench' would be delivered by FedEx today.

-Max



From: mercedes-boun...@okiebenz.com on behalf of Dieselhead
Sent: Sat 8/28/2010 9:30 AM
To: Mercedes Discussion List
Subject: Re: [MBZ] '95 E300 rear suspension overhaul - phase 2



It is a lot easier if you drop the side by taking out the two
subframe bolts on that side.  You may as well change the subframe
mounts while you are there.  And, the LCA should be done at the same
time, as all the links have to be taken out again to change the
bushing in the wheel carrier unless you have the special tool for
that.

FYI, the special tool I used for tightening the new triple square
bolts is a set of vice grips.

Reminder: before you tighten any bolts, the rear wheel carrier needs
to be jacked up into the normal position as if the car was on the
ground.


Dieselvolk,

Over the last couple of nights I replaced the four struts on one
side; about six hours invested so far.  Special tools definitely
help, specifically a 12mm triple-square bit in a 1/2 socket (I only
have the K-D tools version that has a 1/2 inch hex shaft about 2
inches long with the triple square bit at one end, need to find a
source for shorter socket version), and the tie rod thrust piece
tool 201 589 13 33 00.  Also, the original cam-bolt on the inside
end of the tie rod strut is 10mm triple-square vice 12mm;
fortunately I had that size.

I've got the 'ring wrench' on order with Rusty, should have that in
the next few days.  201 589 00 03 00, I'm hoping this will permit
proper torque application for inner bolts.

Put the car up on jacks, removed a wheel, applied penetrating oil,
started removing bolts.  I left the shock in place which held the
spring link and spring - saving those for later work.  I also left
the subframe mounts alone/mounted, which made access to the inner
ends quite tight.  Shocks were replaced in phase 1, subframe mounts
will be phase 3.

The bolt at the inner end of the tie rod