Re: [MBZ] epc?
Sunil, That first number appears to be an accessory part number, which normally start with 'B' and have 8 digits following. Haven't seen one with a BQ and 7 digits, but that number does show up on the price list as sheepskin seat covers (unknown fitment), list price of $259 as of last May. The other number is not an MB number. Most accessory numbers are not searchable in the EPC and most are not in the EPC at all. The EPC is intended for replacement parts, not accessories. :) -Dave M. -- Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 12:58:40 -0500 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] epc? how do i get the epc? also, let's say I'm staring at a Mercedes parts box. Where is the part number for the contents on the label? Might it be BQ 6 91 0212 or 83637690-560? Anyone with the EPC, could you run those and tell me what comes up? -- Sunil Hari 1992 300D 2.5T - 286Kmi.
Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel
Nope... only Casey has an intercooled 603 on this list, AFAIK. I'm experimenting with increasing power without an intercooler for now (watching intake air and exhaust gast temp gauges closely). Soon's I find me an AMG front bumper to hide a Casey-style intercooler, though, look out! :-) -dm -- Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 17:30:48 -0600 From: OK Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1990 Mercedes Benz 300D 2.5 Turbodiesel Don't you have an intercooler in it? On 3/19/06, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: You think a 2.5 is fast? You should try my 87 300D... with the full-load screw turned up a half turn, it now outruns my stock 1986 300E at the dragstrip. Not by much, but it's got a better ET. The 300E will slowly pull away over 90mph, though. Another half-turn should cure that, heh-heh. Oh yeah - and that's despite the diesel's 2.65 axle, while the 300E enjoys the advantage of a 3.07! :) -dm
Re: [MBZ] FS: W124 Euro light lenses - new
Hi Kevin, Asking $125/obo with free shipping in the USA. Photos are posted here: http://www.mercedesshop.com/shopforum/showthread.php?t=147891 A pair of OE lenses will be on the wrong side of $200, last time I checked... :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Sun, 19 Mar 2006 23:44:06 -0500 (EST) From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] FS: W124 Euro light lenses - new How much Dave? I have TYC lights on my wagon. (Wanted to get Hellas or Bosch, but the financial situation at the time wouldn't support it.) ...Kevin 87 300TD Dave M. said: Hi all, I found a pair of new lenses floating around my shop that I don't need. They are TYC brand, in original boxes, and will fit all Euro lights. They're the 1994/95 style but will fit 86-95 cars. No, they won't fit DOT lights. They look like this (this is an old photo of my car with a set if lights that are now gone): http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_headlights/Standard_Hella_Euro.jpg You guys have first crack at them, next they're posted on the forums, then off to eBay... :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
[MBZ] Anyone in Dallas, TX with a digicam? (500E bling)
OK... anyone nearby who could take a peek at this car and shoot as many pics as possible of it inside, outside, and underneath? This is uber-rare Mercedes exotica, rumored to be the fabled Fittipaldi 500E. It's located at RUF, home of the Yellow Bird. The asking price is $65k, not anything I could ever buy, but I would LOVE to see more detailed photos of all the upgrades! Anyway, there's a few teaser shots and a list of the goodies installed at this link: http://rufautocentre.com/usedcars/car024.asp I bet the upgrades were in the $60-80k range, in addition to the cost of the car. The motor alone would be about $40k... RENNtech is quite proud of their work and they charge accordingly! I've never seen a 6.0L rated at 465hp... most of their 6.0's are in the 420-440 range. Must be the custom cams, porting, and titanium rods... drol. :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Anyone in Dallas, TX with a digicam? (500E bling)
Not Ohio plates, Idaho plates. The owner has it registered in Idaho. It's being sold on consignment by Ruf Porsche in Dallas. The owner of the 500E allegedly also owns a Ruf Yellow Bird. For those wondering what Ruf is (other than what your dog says), click here: http://www.fast-autos.com/rufcenter.html :) -dm -- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 18:04:28 -0500 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Anyone in Dallas, TX with a digicam? (500E bling) if it's in texas, why does it have Ohio plates on it? On 3/20/06, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://rufautocentre.com/usedcars/car024.asp
Re: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector
Bah. Get a Valentine-1. http://www.valentine1.com/ :) -dm -- Date: Mon, 20 Mar 2006 15:22:25 -0800 (PST) From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector This is always advertised in the Star. Looks good. Anybody here have feedback on it? http://www.escortradar.com/x50.htm Thanks, Chris
[MBZ] BIG pile of parts for sale
FYI... no affiliation, etc... just passing it along: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=8049348099 This has Kaleb written all over it, lol! =) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603
Never say never... or in this case, no WAY... because some lunatic out there will prove you wrong! In this case, it's the Crazy Finns. Look closely at the brief under-hood shots of these W201's. Major surgery was required, this is not even close to a drop-in swap: http://www.w124performance.com/movies/Mercedes/SuperTurbos/dieselboost_demo.mov (14MB download) I still get chills up my spine whenever I watch that. Drol! I have a hard time comprehending what it must be like to drive a W201 with a manual tranny and 450bhp under the bonnet. I'm sure it's quite different than my heavy, pokey W124 with a mere 340hp and a slushbox. :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 15:00:25 -0500 From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603 OK Don wrote: Now here's a car that's just drying for a 603 engine and intercooler -- http://tinyurl.com/nsxtk Ain't NO way a 603 will fit. Even the 602 was tight. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603
Marshall, you'll get no argument from me on that! I agree completely. Wy too much work (and expense!) to shoehorn a 603 into a W201. I once saw a V8 (M117, I believe) stuffed into a W201 as well. Pure insanity. :) -dm -- Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 15:50:05 -0500 From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 190D needs 603 Slipping a 6 cylinder engine into a 201 chassis requires redesigning the chassis and then fabricating it. Sure it can be done, but it won't be cheap or easy. It would make a LOT more sense to slip a 603/606 engine into a chassis that it will fit into - a 124. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector
Many people seem to think that having a radar detector somehow makes them immune to tickets. If you think this way, (1) you'll end up getting tickets, and (2) your radar detector becomes a ticket announcer. It still requires a lot of common sense and reasonable/prudent speeds. You can't set the cruise on 90 in a 65 zone and sit back and relax, wait for a 'bep' and then casually slow down, expecting to cruise past the nice officer at 64. Don't work that way. Last ticket I got was 4 years ago, before I got my V-1... and that ticket also taught me that my speedometer was 4% slow (which I later verified with a GPS - D'OH!!). I now know exactly how far off each of my speedometers are... most are within 1-3% though. A little edumacation goes a long way. :) -dm -- Date: Tue, 21 Mar 2006 16:54:20 -0500 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Escort 8500 X50 Radar Detector Apparently looks don't mean much and I did have a Escort Passport and sold it after getting a ticket while on the interstate.
Re: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II
Alex, I'm not sure I can help much... but I do have photos of old vs. new subframe mounts. Check them out here, and compare to what's in yur car now: http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_subframe/ :) -dm -- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 01:19:47 -0800 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II Listers may perhaps recall that a few months back I complained about poor traction and rear wheel hop over bumps in my '87 300D. I had my indy replace the rear shocks, which were original, and the problem went away for a while. Now it's back. My indy has looked at the suspension closely and said that the only worn part worth replacing was the thrust arms, which he did a few days ago. He thought the subframe mounts might stand replacement if they are original, but was hesitant to do that unless it's the only option left. The symptoms are different now, but the car still handles strangely. Before replacing the thrust arms, the whole rear end of the car would bounce in one direction or the other over any bump. Now the car tracks straight over bumps that both rear wheels hit at the same time (like bridge expansion joints), but still bounces sideways when one wheel at a time hits something smaller (like a manhole cover or pothole). The symptoms are more pronounced the faster I'm going when I hit the bump. Today I had time to put the car up on ramps and look at the rear suspension myself. I pried at all the links with a big screwdriver, looking for obvious signs of looseness or free play. The torque struts and camber arms seem to move more easily at the wheel carrier end than do the new thrust arms or any of the other links, but I obviously don't have a brand-new 124 to compare to, so I'm not sure what anything in the suspension is supposed to feel like. Should the mounts be hard, like a pencil eraser, or soft and springy? Do they get hard and crack with age, or do they soften and compress more easily under load? The car passes the jack up one side and try to move the wheel around test---but is there any similar way to detect a more subtle failure of the links? Any suggestions on what I should do next to diagnose the handling problem? Should I just replace all the rear links on the assumption that they are all pretty old? How about the subframe mounts---is there any way to tell if they are the culprit before shelling out for R R of the subframe? (I realize I could buy all this stuff from Rusty and DIY for much less, but I don't have the time or facilities right now, and I don't mind letting my indy get his percentage once in a while for stuff that I can't do.) Thanks for any input, Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Is M-1 0W-30 approved MB oil?
Short answer: NO. Long answer: MB approved oils are xW-40 or xW-50. Anything xW-30 is too thin, no matter what silly rating is on the bottle, or what Mobil claims on the label. Also, the current M-1 Truck SUV is NOT approved, as it is 5W-30, and therefore too thin. You want the new M-1 Turbo Diesel Truck variety, which is 5W-40. Stick with either the 5W-40 or 15W-50 if you use Mobil-1. -dm -- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 08:35:29 -0600 From: LT Don [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Is M-1 0W-30 approved MB oil? I seem to remember some folks using approved 0-W-30 back when the other choice was 15-W-50. I am using the Truck/SUV at the moment (approved). On 3/22/06, W. Lasher [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: According to Mobile web site M-1 0W-30 is an approved Diesel oil?is it approved for MB's? What are the mew codes for Diesel oil? (ie: CF) I'm just about ready to go back to Delo 400 with all this confusion. At least I can get it through Costco Walt Lasher Seattle 1992 W-140 S350
Re: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II
Alex, It's not obvious in the photos, but the old mounts are also metal and rubber. The new mounts that I got are the Sportline rear and late W124 front, which are a slightly different design than the early fronts (I just liked the newer version better, and they fit all 124's.) The main thing to notice is how the subframe sags on the old, cracked mounts. With the new mounts, almost no sagging... the subframe is locked much more tightly to the body. I can tell you that replacing the mounts is not fun, even with the proper tools, at least with the subframe in the car. If the subframe was removed, it would be much easier. If you intend to rebuild the subframe yourself by changing all the links mounts, I'd pull the whole thing out. I intend to do that when I fix mine (probably next winter). Here's a procedure showing a DIY forward bushing swap: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/W124/subframe_bushing_install.pdf (6MB PDF file with lots of pretty pictures) :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Wed, 22 Mar 2006 09:31:18 -0800 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 squirrely rear end, Part II Thanks, Dave. Those new mounts are obviously quite a different design than the old ones---the old ones seem to be solid rubber while the new ones are reinforced with metal, is that right? Do you have any idea when the switch occurred? Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper On 3/22/06, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Alex, I'm not sure I can help much... but I do have photos of old vs. new subframe mounts. Check them out here, and compare to what's in yur car now: http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_subframe/ :) -dm
[MBZ] Mercedes Supersedans
Hi all, The March edition of Motor Trend Classic has a neat article on some vintage Mercedes supersedans... namely: 1) 1971 300SEL 6.3 2) 1978 450SEL 6.9 3) 1992 500E It's 8 pages long with some pretty sweet photos and specs on all 3 models. The PDF is available here - 10MB download. Enjoy! http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/MT_Supersedans_03-2006.pdf :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 262kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey?
The SL320 / 300SL will have the M104 engine... nice motor, it has the usual issues with head gaskets like most of the M104's, don't think there's anything else major to worry about. The SL500 / 500SL will have the M119 engine, which is a real powerhouse... no major problems there, but usually due for a timing chain rails by 150k (and it's not as easy or cheap to do as our old diesels). The M119 is a fairly expensive engine to maintain, though... not that the M104 is cheap, but the M119 is a notch above. The 500SL had mechanical (KE?) injection from 90-92 and then bumped up to the electronic LH injection starting in 1993, IIRC. If your wife doesn't care about power (and you don't either), I'd stick with the SL320. If one of you wants a *fast* car, get the SL500. Drive both and let us know how you like them! I'd love a late R129 SL500 'Silver Arrow' edition with the AMG Sport package. Mmmm. :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 06:05:28 -0500 From: Bob DuPuy [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey? I like the 300SL from around 93. Are there any known problems with this car, or that engine? There is not a huge price difference now between the 300 and the 500 is the 500 engine more troublesome? Thanks, Bob DuPuy
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Supersedans
Their 500E prices were a bit low. Most 500E's are in the $12-$17k range with average miles (80-120k). Not much goes cheaper than that unless it's salvage or has really high miles. Clean low miles examples are in the $20-25k range. There's not much over $30k except garage queens and exotica like that RENNtech Fittipaldi car (asking $65k). There is one for sale in SoCal with 5kmi (not a typo) that is, literally, showroom new. He turned down offers (from serious collectors) in the $80-$90k range, think he wants approx $100k. (I know this is nearly incomrehensible to a group that lives breathes $500 W123's, but yes there are people out there willing to pay those amounts.) The A124 (cabriolet, 124.066) is priced very close to the 500E (124.036)... in the same $10-$25k range. These two 124's are, IMO, the highest valued 124's in the USA. (Outside the US there were other exotic models and I have no clue what those values are. The E60 Limited is my dream car... thought only a dozen were built worldwide though.) :-) -dm -- Date: Thu, 23 Mar 2006 08:59:40 -0800 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Supersedans And they said $20K for a 500E? I thought those things were going for $50K now?
Re: [MBZ] Was 8500 X50 Radar Detector now My Problem
Ditto what Jim said. I bet the odo is also off ~25%. Sounds to me like someoned changed the Euro kph speedo to a USA mph version, but ignored the fact that the axle ratios are different. You can't order a drive gear, the trannies all output the same signal. You have to match the speedometer with the axle ratio. So if I'm right, you'll have to figure out what axle ratio you have now, then figure out what USA model used the same axle, and get a used speedo from that car. Or, get a conversion box to go in between to adjust the 25% error. :) -dm -- Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 07:05:50 -0800 From: Jim Cathey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Was 8500 X50 Radar Detector now My Problem on Wednesday. My speedo is off by quite a bit, Like about 25%. How's the odometer? Every time I've called our local speedo shop the _first_ thing they say to check is the odometer. Does it track the mile markers? If not, you've got a gearing problem. If it tracks, then you have a calibration problem within the speedometer itself. 25% is a lot to be off via a gear. -- Jim
Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey?
Correct. And from 1998-up, the SL320 was not sold in the USA, only the SL500 and SL600. Overseas, the SL320 from approx 1999-up did indeed get the M112 6-cyl, but that was never sold in the USA. The M104 engine in the SL320 is a DOHC, inline-6, 24-valve engine. The 90-93 300SL got the M104.981 engine. :) -dm -- Date: Fri, 24 Mar 2006 09:45:55 -0500 From: James Zavesky [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] An SL for wifey? The SL320 ( 129.063 ) used the 104.991 engine which is an inline 6 produced from 1994 to 1997. James Zavesky
Re: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb?
IMO, the latest greatest H4 bulbs are the new Osram Hypers. The 70/65 variant will put out substantially more light than stock 60/55 (despite the numbers looking awfully similar), and there should be no need to mess with relays. The next step up is the 85/80 Hypers but I don't think you'd want to use those without relays. They're not cheap, but they are rated to last 2x-3x longer than most overwatt Rallye bulbs. You can buy them from Peter: http://www.mckeige.com/products-osram.php They're not listed on his website, you need to email him for more details. I just picked up a set for my VW, which has E-code lights but no relays. Joe Knight just picked up a set for his E-code lights and reported that he was definitely impressed with the difference from stock bulbs. :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Sat, 25 Mar 2006 15:32:41 -0500 From: Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb? I finally got around to installing my Euro lights that I bought fom John M in Victoria! (Thanks again John) Boy is it nice to be able to see at night again! What a huge difference; I already knew it would be better as I have them on my W123 and had them on my W126 also. I was interested in going slightly overwattage and wanted to get some relays to put inline. Does anyone have a link to a write-up for wiring these? Also, what are the latest/greatest H4those Sylvania White star or something like that?? Thanks! Jeff Zedic Toronto 87 300TD
Re: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb?
Joe signed off this list, too high a fluff-to-content level I think, lol. He's still dieseling away with his 124.193 wagon though. =) -Dave M. -- Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 15:27:48 -0700 From: Craig McCluskey [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Headlight relays---Kaleb? On Sun, 26 Mar 2006 14:03:49 -0800 Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: IMO, the latest greatest H4 bulbs are the new Osram Hypers. Thanks for the tip. Joe Knight just picked up a set ... Haven't heard anything from him lately. Is he not on this list? Craig
Re: [MBZ] Light and relays
On most cars you can modify the bulb-out module (N7 on a W124) to ignore the headlights, and still function for all the *other* bulbs. It's pretty obvious when you lose a headlight anyway. I have my module modified so it works normally with my headlight relays. On the W124 it normally monitors low high beam headlights, but does NOT monitor fog lights. I haven't a clue what the W202 does. The JC Whitney high-wattage bulbs are highly suspect and are very likely to be cheap offshore junk. All bulbs (of a given wattage) are NOT equal, even among well known brands. If you're serious about seeing at night, stick with the proven top performers - usually Philips and Osram (not Sylvania). I've go Philips Rally 100/90's in my cars now and they're mind-boggling. Just picked up some of the new Osram Hypers, which put out far more lumens per watt than other H4 bulbs, but haven't tried them yet. For good bulbs, buy from Dan Stern, or Peter at www.mckeige.com. :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Sun, 26 Mar 2006 22:37:19 EST From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Light and relays I've used 100/90s and they get real hot. My '95 C280s stock light bulbs were H4 60/55. So I installed 160/100s with relays and ran it that way for almost six years. Using relays will light the bulb out indicator, however. But not on the non-monitored high beam. BTW, you can buy hi-wattage bulbs all day long at JC Whitney. Which is where I got the 70W H7's for my C320s inner secondary high beam. Combined with the Bi-Xenon highs, it lights up the night. RLE
[MBZ] Water injection on OM603 - update
Hi all, I got to do some testing of intake air temps and EGT's on a recent trip. Some details are posted here, along with a couple of photos of my newly installed gauges: http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475page=2 Given the claims by some folks of major reductions in EGT with water injection, I guess it's possible that I just haven't squirted enough in there yet. So, after some baseline dragstrip runs (this weekend, I hope) I'll be doubling the water volume (from a 5gph nozzle to 10gph) to see if that makes a difference. I'm hoping that my stock manifolds aren't responsible for the high EGT's... I've already got the exhaust freed up post-turbo, and I was hoping to avoid custom headers (which inevitably require cu$tom intake AND exhau$t at con$isderable expen$e). I'd much rather just get a nice intercooler setup, but alas the prerequisite AMG front bumper remains elusive... still looking for one at the moment. :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] 124 - What to do when the subframe's down?
I'd seriously consider replacing most of the 5 links if the car is over 15 years old and/or has 200kmi on it. Make sure the indy knows to only tighten the bolts (for the ends of the 5 links) with the car at normal ride height... the rubber bushings are supposed to be under zero tension when the car is at rest. Also - replace the diff mount bushings if they are not fairly recent! All this stuff should be a lot easier with the subframe out of the car... :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 09:32:27 -0800 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] 124 - What to do when the subframe's down? My indy has my 124 today and is replacing the subframe mounts in an effort to cure my rear-end problems. In the interest of saving on labor down the road, is there anything else I should have him do while he's in there? I've heard vague talk of fuel lines, hard brake lines, and the fuel tank strainer all being easier to get at with the subframe down. (I'm not having a problem with any of those that I know of, but I'm thinking in terms of long-term preventive maintenance since I intend to be driving this car on my deathbed, like Lt. Don.) Thanks, Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Water injection on OM603 - update
By themselves, none. But they do allow you to jack up the fuel delivery (relatively) safely, without destroying the motor. Seems most stock Bosch pumps can't deliver more than, say, 20-25% power gain over stock, without modifying the pump via larger elements. So on an OM603, that should take us from 148hp (stock) to something around 170-180hp with stock pump, exhaust, and turbo. If you're willing to change the intake, exhast, and send the pump to Myna Diesel, the sky is the limt... the Finns have dyno charts showing 450hp from a stock long-block 603. :) -dm -- Date: Wed, 29 Mar 2006 17:36:55 -0500 From: Trampas [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Water injection on OM603 - update What kind of horse power boost does intercooling and/or water injection add? Trampas
[MBZ] S55 LWB on eBay
In case you need *lots* of rear leg room, and like to get places in a hurry... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4625188298 :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Joe!
Ditto! Good to have you back in the fray, Joe. =) +dm -- Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 10:54:24 -0600 From: Loren Faeth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Joe! Welcome back Joe! We've missed ya!
[MBZ] Estate auction
The poor old Millers died and look what was found on the farm! http://coolcatcorp.com/millerauction/MillerAuction.html (may be old news for some of you, but I hadn't seen it...) =) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Jacking Up a W124
Larry,
That won't be an issues... both sound panels need to come off for the
ATF work. I put the jack stands either under the front lower control
arms, or under the body crossemember under the engine.
BTW, if you could take some photos of the sound panels, that would be
great. A few of us have always wondered why the 90-93 panels are so
much cheaper than the 1987 panels, when they should be the same size
shape
:-)
-Dave M.
--
Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 12:26:38 -0500
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Jacking Up a W124
I plan to change the ATF filter, coolant and T'Stat this weekend and need
to raise the front end. Where should I place the jack and jack stands to
avoid damage to the sound panel?
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
[MBZ] Enzo crash update
In case you missed it... these clowns lied to the cops and eventually got busted. The TV station video clip is amazing, shows how the car got airborne at estimated 160mph, and hit the pole while 2 feet in the air. It's also just plain wrong that this guy owns not one, but TWO Enzos, both with custom wheels... AND he's got an SLR! Insane: http://www.wreckedexotics.com/special/enzo/ -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Does this help Dave M?
Jeff, thanks for the link - that's VERY close, but not quite what I need. :-( That's a Gen 1 front bumper, which I think would clear an intercooler. The problem is, despite the seller's claim, the square light holes accept Bosch lights which are only available as driving lights - I don't know of any fog lights available to fit down there, and I need fogs. The Gen 2 bumper has different light holes and I can get fogs for that version. On a side note, it sounds like this guy is selling a replica, not an original. I should ask, though. Thanks again for the heads-up! Casey, I don't know about the Gen1 bumper, but Aaron took some good photos of the Gen2 and I'm pretty sure it will swallow your FMIC. Here's photos of Aaron's bumper (which is the exact item I'm still looking for) : http://www.w124performance.com/images/intercooler/bumper_AMG/both_bumpers.jpg :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Fri, 31 Mar 2006 15:41:54 -0800 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Does this help Dave M? Ya know, that almost doesn't look like it's got enough rake-back to clear the intercooler, at least the IC that's installed on my car. I didn't think the AMG spoilers had those silly wings on them. On 3/31/06, Jeff Zedic [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/300E-W124-86-95-AMG-Style-Front-Spoiler-Body-Kit-New_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33638QQitemZ8050866121QQrdZ1#ebayphotohosting Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: I drive in a persistent vegetative state '87 300TD intercooler (212k)
[MBZ] Photos of W124 diesel sound panels
Hi all, I posted Larry's recent photos on my website, and also posted the photos of the brand-new 1987 300D/TD sound panels as well. Note that the '87 panels have sound-absorbing foam. Does anyone know if the 1991 (124.128) models had the foam as well? I think there used to be a bigger price difference... I would have sworn the 2.5 Turbo panels were a lot cheaper. But either I imagined that, or the prices have shot up recently: http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/sound_panels/ 1987 panels: 124-520-50-23 - Front, $302 list 124-520-34-24 - Rear, $310 list 1990-93 panels: 124-520-95-23 - Front, $180 list 124-520-31-24 - Rear, $310 list :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 261kmi (Sportline)
[MBZ] Tranny question - doesn't like to engage reverse
Hi all, A friend of mine recently bought a 1991 560SEL which he's quite happy with (it's his first Mercedes purchase). It has a tranny problem, which is why he got it fairly cheap. When cold, it goes into reverse with little if any trouble. When warm, he has to rev the engine slightly, and then in bangs/clunks into reverse. Is this a known/common problem, and if so, is there an easy fix? He doesn't want to shell out for a rebuilt tranny, and is itching to tear the tranny apart to replace what he's sure is just a bad O-ring somewhere (I don't share his optimism, nor enthusiasm, lol!) If I could point him toward a specific area to look at that would be great. Tranny shifts perfectly in forward gears, btw. Thanks! :) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
Just a quick note on the fan clutch. I've read a couple comments that the fan doesn't do much at freeway speeds, where ram air theoretically would cool the car. This is not correct... the fan does a *lot* more than you think at freeway speeds. Anyone who doesn't think so should remove their fan and go for a quick test drive in the summertime at 55mph+. (I'd recommend you bring the fan, and tools, with you in case you need to re-install on the side of the road.) When I bought my car in 1997, the old fan clutch was inoperative. The new clutch significantly reduced freeway operating temps. At low speeds, the engine isn't spinning fast enough to make the fan do much anyway... the radiator condition, t-stat, and electric fan are more important at idle and low vehicle speeds. Also remember that gas cars tend to heat up a lot at idle, while diesels produce minimal heat at idle. Diesels tend to build heat under load, and cool off when load is removed. I've had more than one MB or VW diesel that would cool off at idle compared to running at freeway speeds in *really* hot weather. Jim's comment about a bad or plugged radiator causing a good clutch not to engage is also important... you need good airflow through rad condenser fins, AND there cannot be a cool spot in the radiator directly ahead of the clutch. :) +dm -- Date: Tue, 4 Apr 2006 07:33:52 -0700 Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush All that said, I'd start with the thermostat! You did remember to put it back in after the flush, right? Is it in correctly?
[MBZ] Picture rims
No comment: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UeKD-LWjAKYfeature=Featuredpage=1t=tf=b Kaleb, you could have a set on your W126 with a plug for Striplin.net, or Bimby... =) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush
The sensor for the dash temp gauge is a one-wire sensor, but it is located on the side of the cylinder head between the glow plugs. If original, it doesn't hurt to replace it, although usually when they go bad they read low, not high. A new sensor is about $10-12 from Rusty. The sensor you're seeing at the t-stat area is either for the EDS (which I didn't think was used back in 1982) or it's a temp switch of some sort. I haven't owned a W123 in a while and I forget what the sensor up top is for. :) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline) -- Date: Tue, 04 Apr 2006 11:04:12 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 82 300D-T running hot after acid flush New Question: I guess the sensor is located on the top of the motor very near the thermostat housing with one wire attached ?
[MBZ] 1992 300D 2.5T parts car or fixer, cheap
No affiliation, etc: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4628199906 I wonder which is correct on the mileage... 900,024 or 9,000,024? Anyway - no photos on the auction listing, but here's some of the text. Located in Ocean Springs, MS. 1992 Mercedes Benz 300-D Turbo, 90,00024 miles. Diesel fuel. the motor is in excellant condition, Body is in excellant condition, however the front of the car was hit and the air bag deployed, needs new bumper and airbag. I have the radiator out of the car as well as the transmition cooling coil both are in good shape. I had to remove them so I could get to the front bumper brackets they need to be straighten out. I can start the car and the motor run great and the transmition is in great shape. The car is loud due to a exaust leak. To make a long story short, the car could be driven anywhere with just a little work. Current bid = $100. This has Kaleb written all over it, along with SuperTurbo Project Car... :) -dm
[MBZ] OM603 water injection project - update
The latest data from my water injection (ok, actually washer fluid, which is a methanol water mix) saga is posted here: http://buymbparts.com/forum/showthread.php?t=475 Short summary: Even with much larger amounts injected, there's a limit to reduction in IAT's, and nearly *zero* reduction of EGT's. Oddly, I'm now getting a measureable power gain with the injection, possibly from the methanol being burned as additional fuel. That's nice for a short term power boost, but still won't allow me to maintain long-term WOT like for climbing hills or top speed (where I have to back off the throttle to keep EGT's from melting pistons.) O_o -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs
A shop vac should pull out any little chunks from the breather hole, which doesn't open directly into the head anyway. I wouldn't worry too much about it. You'll likely need a new seal where the tube attaches to the valve cover, this seal is often fossilized after 5-10 years. My originals came out in chunks and felt like plastic... it should be nice, soft rubber. A new PCV tube is something like $30 I think. No worries about driving the car around the driveway with the PCV not connected, but I wouldn't drive it down the road like that... you'll be blowing quite a bit of oil vapor out the valve cover hole, and sucking unfiltered air into the rubber intake snorkel. =) -Dave M. -- Date: Mon, 10 Apr 2006 10:01:44 -0400 From: ANGELO GIAIMO [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 350 sdl glow plugs Sunday, while tring to replace the boost pressure control hose on the turbo, I removed the several other pieces of hardware for better access. One such piece, the breather hose, went SNAP at the valve cover endbusted off flush at the gromet while tring to remove it. Oh s**t. I can account for all (well, almsost all) of the plastic, so I'm pretty confident none went down the breather hole, but short of removing the valve cover (and now, part of the intake manifold), any tricks to getting this plastic out? Also, aside from running rough, will I do any real damage leaving the hose disconnected at the valve cover? No real amount of driving, just jocking it around so I can get another vehicle out of the garage. Thanks, Angelo Giaimo/Fishkill/IBM @ IBMUS
Re: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD
Kevin, First a little clarification, then on to your problems. In the 124.133/.193, the high speed only runs at temps over 105C. The switch is on top of the engine at the water outlet. The low speed only runs when AC refrigerant pressure exceeds 16 or 20 bar, depending if you have the old green or new red switch. That switch is located at the receiver-drier. Nothing related to fan operation is located at the thermostat housing (the switch down there is for the tranny cold-shift-softening vacuum circuit). 1) If you can short the 2 pins and make the fan come on high speed, replace the switch. These switches have a high failure rate. Every one of the 4 cars in my family came from the previous owners with bad switches. Replace it!! I use the 603.971 switch which is cheaper and has a lower temp rating. Part number and photo is here: http://www.w124performance.com/images/W124_stuff/Temp_switch_105-12x.jpg 2) The low speed switch requires AC evacuation to replace. If you have the green one, replace it with a red one. The resistor is right next to the receiver drier. If bad, or bypassed, replace it or un-bypass it. Hopefully this switch is working ok. 3) Your engine should almost never, EVER exceed 105C and need the aux electric fan. If that's happening, you have other issues. If the fan clutch is truly bad, either try refilling with silicone, or replace it. Yes it does something at freeway speeds too, don't expect ram air to cool the engine. 4) If the radiator is more than 5 years old it is also highly suspect. They can corrode internally and although flow is fine, it won't cool worth squat. My car had the radiator replaced at the dealership in 1993, and when I bought the car in 1997 and had hot running problems like you, I assumed it couldn't be the radiator because it was only 4 years old. Guess what? It was the radiator. It's awfully hard to diagnose, though. I replaced everything else and that was the only thing left, so I took the gamble and it worked. :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 08:53:42 -0400 (EDT) From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Cooling problem with my 87 300TD Folks, I have a few problems with my 1987 300TD and I could really use some list wisdom tracking them down. The foremost, and the one I've forgotten about since the last warm days of last fall, is that my auxillary fan never comes on. On the way home from work last evening (outside temperature around 68 degrees F) after I got off the highway and was making my way through some local lights, the temperature gauge went about 110 (probably over 115) and no aux fan. I made it home without incident and decided to check out what I could. Last night, with the key in the run position, I shorted the pins on the temperature sensor on thermostat housing and the fan came on as it should. (Didn't sound great, but it hasn't run in months either.) I did the same with the pins on the high pressure switch and again the fan ran as expected. A couple of other datapoints: 1) the car has had the #14 head replaced (by me) with a #17. 2) I don't have any coolant in the oil or oil in the coolant problems. 3) previous owner was a hack and I think the aux fan resistor is missing, or maybe I don't know where to find it. 4) my viscous clutch for the rad fan is probably mostly dead. What diagnosis do I need to do to find why the aux fan isn't running? Eventhough this might not be the only problem, I think if it was working correctly, I'd get some relief from those high coolant temps in stop and go traffic. I know the aux fan used to come on at times when the a/c was on and I was pulling into the garage b/c I would hear it as I pulled in. ...Kevin (Slater, Mars, PA - Marshall I'm extra-signing for you and I'll come and cut your grass if you help me out!) 87 300TD 282k miles
Re: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop
Jay, This sounds like a classic case of low fuel delivery off idle. An ALDA adjustment will probably cure things. The car should get from 0-60 in approximately 13 seconds as timed with a stopwatch, on a flat road, somewhere near sea level. If you live at high elevation, the car will be a bit slower, especially from a stop. I forget if there are any tutorials on Rusty's forum, or Kaleb's website, explaining how to adjust the ALDA... it's not simple on your car, but it's not terribly difficult either. Done correctly, the car should be almost fast (!) leaving a stop, with no loss in fuel economy, and possibly improved shift characteristics. :) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 20:05:48 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop my '86sdl with 225kmiles has a slow start up from standing still...almost as if i push down and then wait for the next chapter... very good accelleration after the rpm's go up, great mileage, and this problem happens mostly after the car is well warmed up... any thoughts?
Re: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop
Sort of, but not quite. First you'll need to remove your ALDA - there's a pictorial at this link: http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/ Then, you either add a shim underneath of the correct thickness, or you remove the tamper seal on top, loosen the locknut, and turn the setscrew (carefully!). Turn it CCW to richen the mixture. Usually 1.0-1.5 turns is about right. You adjust richer until there's no more power gain off idle, then maybe turn it back just a hair. A slight puff of smoke leaving a stop is normal. A lot of smoke leaving a stop is not normal. Properly adjusted, you'll have no loss in MPG. It may take some experimenting to get the setting correct. It's also good to verify the ALDA isn't leaking. To test, you have to apply pressure with a MityVac (NOT vacuum, has to be pressure). It should pump up to about 15psi and either hold that pressure, or leak down slowly. If you can't pump it above zero psi with a MItyVac, or it leaks down very quickly, you need a new shaft seal (as shown in the photos at the link above). Jim Friesen sells the seals for about $10 if you need one. This only affects part-throttle power, though, if it is leaking. :-) -Dave M. On 4/11/06, [EMAIL PROTECTED] [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: it feels like low fuel from a start...is this adjustment done with just a screwdriver applied in the right spot? -- Original message -- From: Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Jay, This sounds like a classic case of low fuel delivery off idle. An ALDA adjustment will probably cure things. The car should get from 0-60 in approximately 13 seconds as timed with a stopwatch, on a flat road, somewhere near sea level. If you live at high elevation, the car will be a bit slower, especially from a stop. I forget if there are any tutorials on Rusty's forum, or Kaleb's website, explaining how to adjust the ALDA... it's not simple on your car, but it's not terribly difficult either. Done correctly, the car should be almost fast (!) leaving a stop, with no loss in fuel economy, and possibly improved shift characteristics. :) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 11 Apr 2006 20:05:48 + From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] SDL accelleration from a stop my '86sdl with 225kmiles has a slow start up from standing still...almost as if i push down and then wait for the next chapter... very good accelleration after the rpm's go up, great mileage, and this problem happens mostly after the car is well warmed up... any thoughts?
Re: [MBZ] R12 replacement
Hey Kaleb, Try this stuff: http://www.autocool-refrigerants.com/envirosafe_tech.htm :) -dm -- Date: Wed, 12 Apr 2006 21:23:13 -0500 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] R12 replacement Ok, so whats the best alternative to R12 rather than converting to 134? Tried duracool and last time I ordered it stuff didnt seem to work hardly at all. Have a couple of virgin r12 systems that need to be recharged and want to try something else? Freeze12? Dont think I like the envirosafe from what I remember. What else has people used? Want something that can work with either the mineral oil or the stuff for 134
Re: [MBZ] Nice 95 S350D
Sunil, You are correct. If you buy one that still has straight rods and round cylinders, you can replace the rods with the new style, and the engine should last as long as any MB diesel powerplant. The W140 has lots of fancy gadgets that are expensive to fix when the act up, though. It's a very nice car but not for the faint of wallet. :) -Dave M. -- Date: Thu, 13 Apr 2006 20:02:53 -0400 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Nice 95 S350D But the 350SDLs are fine after they have a new engine or new rods installed, right? Let's say you're looking at a S-class with the 3.5L diesel engine - if all the cylinders have good compression, then you can just put new connecting rods in and have a very reliable car, right? Costs you $2500, $3000 or so (assuming you don't do it yourself) and you have the last overengineered, non-electronic S-class. Seems like a good way to buy a car.
[MBZ] 1992 300D for sale in FL
I spotted this on Cars.com and inquired about the VIN, so I could see what options it has. I'm looking for ASD and heated seats, of which this car has neither. It's green with cream Tex interior. Sounds very nice, if it had the options I wanted I'd be all over it. Thought I'd pass it along in case anyone else is interested... more details from the seller are in the email attached below: -- Forwarded message -- From: bpdodson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Apr 13, 2006 1:37 PM Subject: 1992 mercedes I am not the original owner. I bought the car from a man who works for mercedes in jacksonville here at their port where they import into usa. His mother in Ocala owned it originally, I think. The VIn is WDBEB28D6NB643790. I used it as a spare car for my grown sons and me. I think it would be great for a kid going to college. Car looks like new on inside and outside. new a/c total system. everything works. 1992 Mercedes-Benz 300D 2.5 Turbo, 196kmi $4,500 (Or Best Offer) Seller: bill dodson Daytime Phone: 904-599-9120 Mobile Phone: 904-536-1717 Vehicle Location: saint augustine, FL bill dodson
Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 sighting
Same here. Lots of TS on the shelf but it's all the new 5W-30 crap. The 5W-40 (aka Turbo Diesel Truck) is still nowhere to be found. :-( -dm -- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 01:03:12 -0400 From: Mitch Haley [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Mobil 1 sighting Kaleb C. Striplin wrote: I noticed the walmart here now has the TSUV stuff on the self again, at least for now. My Walmart had nothing thicker than 10W30, although the shelves were fully stocked. TSUV was 5W30 for $20.84 / 5qts.
Re: [MBZ] SRS Replacement
Airbags up to 1991 are supposed to be replaced when they are 15 years old, but I've not yet heard of old bags not firing. Airbags from 1992 up are designed to last the lifetime of the car - there's a TSB that says so, I have the PDF at home, don't think I've uploaded it to my website yet. Good excuse to get a late-model leather steering wheel and 1992-up airbag for your early W124/W126/W201, IMO!! They're not all that expensive from salvage yards. :) -dm -- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 13:35:26 -0700 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sounds like the car was in a front-end collision and the airbag was replaced. 10 years is the recommended SRS check time, and at some point MB USA extended the check to 15 years in the 124. Marshall will correct me if I'm wrong.
Re: [MBZ] SRS Replacement
I uploaded the airbag TSB to my website. It's a 7kb PDF file: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/other/airbag_service_life.pdf It's short but worth reading if you own a Mercedes with an airbag. It's dated September 2002 so it's pretty recent information. :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 18 Apr 2006 16:45:34 -0600 From: Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] SRS Replacement Airbags up to 1991 are supposed to be replaced when they are 15 years old, but I've not yet heard of old bags not firing. Airbags from 1992 up are designed to last the lifetime of the car - there's a TSB that says so, I have the PDF at home, don't think I've uploaded it to my website yet. Good excuse to get a late-model leather steering wheel and 1992-up airbag for your early W124/W126/W201, IMO!! They're not all that expensive from salvage yards. :) -dm
Re: [MBZ] Hose pliers (was: 300SE fuel pump)
Harbor Freight has similar pliers for $9.99: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93038 They also have small hose pinching tools, which is what I have. Mercedes sells an official tool (shown in the factory service manual) but those aren't cheap. I got basically the same thing from Harbor Freight for about $5 for two, but I can't find them on their website anywhere - might be an in-store only item? They look just like this: http://www.tooled-up.com/Product.asp?PID=28835 These are nice since they fit in tight areas. Great for auto tranny cooler hoses, power steering hoses, etc etc... every toolbox should have 4 of these widgets. Definitely worth the ten bucks! :-) -dm -- Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 03:02:26 -0700 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] RR fuel pump replacement 300SE 1990 Jim Cathey wrote: But I believe that all one usually does is to pinch off the rubber fuel line from the tank with vise-grips. Gently! That's what I do, anticipating replacing the hoses every time. They're often hardened by age and will leak when pinched. But the hose is cheap and if it can't hold up to a pinch, you're better off with fresh, flexible hose anyway. Put some vynil tubing on the ends of the grips to minimize the risk of damaging the hoses. C'mon guys, spring for a set of proper hose pliers! I've found this set to be a godsend: http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/shopcart/TOOL/POR_TOOL_CAT150_pg4.htm#32 Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Move fast!
The 4Matic is like the 3.5L diesel. Only the originals from the factory were grenades with the pin pulled. The replacements should be fine. Pretty likely that by 200k, the original is long gone, and the replacement should be ok. I've always wanted a 4Matic for winter use, but I really dislike the M103 engine. (Just a personal preference thing.) I'd give a left arm (well, maybe a little toe anyway) for the 603 diesel 4Matic (124.333) that was sold in Europe! If that Craigslist car was closer I'd definitely go check it out. Don't suppose it's in anyone's back yard, huh... :) -dm -- Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 01:55:21 -0700 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Move fast! http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/152418789.html W124 for only $3300, wednesday only No such thing as a 124 4Matic on which everything works! Let's see, 212K mi, so it should be on the fifth or sixth transfer case? Don't they blow up after 50K or so? Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
Re: [MBZ] Move fast!
Alex, Yeah, I still have that car... an immaculate 1986 300E. I had bought it to replace the wife's crinkled W123. But, not long after I bought it she decided she'd rather be an ex-wife, and as part of the settlement she kept the W123 and I kept the 300E. I've fixed almost everything on it, but don't plan to keep it long term... I want to replace it with a 90-93 W124 diesel. If anyone is seriously interested in my gasser, email me offline with offers over $4k. (Yes, it's that nice.) ;-) About the M103, it's the second one I've owned. I just dislike the powerband. I'm spoiled by the diesel's low-end torque. The M103 pulls much harder up top but I don't spend much time up there. The mechanical/electronic injection system is a bit of a nuisance to troubleshoot, as well. My modified 603 engine is already faster than the 300E through the quarter mile, and when I'm done it will be faster everywhere... the 300E is still a bit quicker above 80-90mph but I'm about to rectify that, heh-heh. -dm :) -- Date: Wed, 19 Apr 2006 09:55:36 -0700 From: Alex Chamberlain [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Move fast! On 4/19/06, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: I've always wanted a 4Matic for winter use, but I really dislike the M103 engine. (Just a personal preference thing.) Dave, I thought you were fixing up an early 300E a while back? Did it give you a PITA? Do tell! Alex Chamberlain '87 300D Turbo '93 Isuzu Trooper
[MBZ] W140 door closing system problem
Hi all, My BIL's 1994 S500 had a problem with the door closing system, which has an electrically-operated vacuum pump in the trunk. (This is a SEPARATE pump from the door locks, btw.) It basically would stop working, so he'd pull the fuse (in the trunk) and re-insert it, which would re-set the system and it would work a few times and then quit. He got a rebuilt pump from Beckman Technologies... http://www.beckmanntechnologies.com/products.html ...and that fixed the problem. Now, a few months later, one door is not closing like it should. Rumor is, that's a sign of the pump going out (again!). Does anyone know enough about these systems to say if that's a true statement? Anyone have troubleshooting info on these things? Sure is a nice car when everything works right...! :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] W140 door closing system problem
D'oh. Looks like my answer is at this link... this is required reading for all W140 owners, or anyone who plans to own a W140. GREAT writeup... http://www.v12uberalles.com/Closing_Assist_Pump.htm I sent this to my BIL, I'm curious what he finds out on his car. :-) -dm Hi all, My BIL's 1994 S500 had a problem with the door closing system, which has an electrically-operated vacuum pump in the trunk. (This is a SEPARATE pump from the door locks, btw.) It basically would stop working, so he'd pull the fuse (in the trunk) and re-insert it, which would re-set the system and it would work a few times and then quit. He got a rebuilt pump from Beckman Technologies... http://www.beckmanntechnologies.com/products.html ...and that fixed the problem. Now, a few months later, one door is not closing like it should. Rumor is, that's a sign of the pump going out (again!). Does anyone know enough about these systems to say if that's a true statement? Anyone have troubleshooting info on these things? Sure is a nice car when everything works right...! :-) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
[MBZ] $10k rodbender, $17k W116 6.9
Wild... bidding went over $10k on this rodbender. One owner, no mention of a crate motor, 97kmi. Listing ended early, must have sold off eBay for over $10k...? Funny part - reserve not met! ROTFL!: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4632716450 Oh yeah, that GORGEOUS 6.9 went for less than I expected... $17k: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4631187834 -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] What E320 to purchase '99 or '00? How about an older 400E?
Forget any W210 - too many kwality issues - unless it's got a healthy Starmark to back it up. If he really wants a 400E, I would stick with the 1994-95 E420 instead - bigger brakes (the '92 had small brakes) and the 94-95 will have the full body updates. Not a bad car, but... ...if he really wants the ultimate ride, might I suggest a 1992-93 500E, or 1994 E500? Partially hand-built by Porsche, rare, gorgeous, and stupid fast for a 12 year old sedan. Typical prices run from $10k-$25k depending on miles, condition, accessories, etc. Lots more info can be had at 500E.com, and I also have some assorted articles on my website at this link: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/articles/ Now, assuming he wants a mid-size Mercedes, I would strongly recommend a W124 of some sort. Another option would be the 1993-95 cabriolet, and for fuel economy, any 1990-95 diesel. (But NOT an S-class diesel!) Yes, I'm biased, I own both a 124 diesel and an E500. I'd avoid any car with the M103 engine unless he doesn't mind being a little short on low-end torque. The M104, M119, and diesels are all generally ok in my book. ;-) -Dave M. -- Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 16:06:58 -0400 From: andrew strasfogel [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] What E320 to purchase '99 or '00? How about an older 400E? A friend has decided to purchase his first Mercedes and asked for my advice. He's 47, works hard and deserves to drive something nice than the '91 Ford he currently owns. He has a budget between $12 - $18K, and his choices boil down to a '92 400E at around $12K, a '99 green/parchment 60K E320 for $15,900, a 2000 E320 with 74K miles for the same price ($15,900), and a 54K immaculately maintained black/black '99 E320 from the local dealer for $18K. Any thoughts/suggestions? All gave clean Car fax reports and are clean, with service records and no obvious current problems. The '99 is a real beauty but is too old for a Star Mark warranty. The 2000 is not being sold by a dealer so no Star Mark either... Any fatal flaws in either of these models for any particular model years he should know about? What about repair costs? Any reason to own a 2000 with 20K more miles than a '99 model E320? Andrew No car younger than 21 years old
Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale
They will reduce body roll. I had that setup on both my W124 diesels. :) -dm -- Date: Mon, 24 Apr 2006 21:57:39 -0400 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale what do sportline swaybars do to the handling of a diesel 124?
Re: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?
Pretty sure the article I just read on the new GL class (yeesh, like we really NEEDED yet another chassis class?) is that MB will be offering a CDI engine of some sort later this year or in 2007. I'm still waiting for the twin-turbo CDI V8 in a W211 to come stateside. :) -dm -- Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 08:53:12 -0400 (EDT) From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL? I don't get MB. You'd think they'd start putting diesel engines in more cars. I know that folks who buy a new MB can usually afford to put gasoline in the tank, but at the same time, there must be a large cross section that would like to be able to say they get really good mileage in their new XX class MB. Donchathink? ...Kevin 87 300TD 283k mi
[MBZ] Hydrogen boost gimmicks?
Anyone have data showing if these work or are hoxes? I couldn't locate anything on Snopes or Google. Here's a couple of samples: http://www.hydrogen-boost.com/index.html http://www.savefuel.ca/ Basically, they claim to extract hydrogen from plain tap water, then let your engine suck that in, for 20% increase in fuel economy. I smell a rat... a friend wants to buy one and I'd like to have facts to use before I talk him out of it, lol! =) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL?
Larry, Your dream MB does exist - Mercedes built it for sale in Europe. It's the W140.135, which is a W140 chassis with a 177hp intercooled, turbocharged OM606.961 engine (similar to what the 98-99 E300 has here in the USA). I would seriously consider buying one if I ever found a clean example for sale on this side of the pond. They're very rare in the USA, I think just a handful came over, imported by diplomats or executives. Pretty sure it was badged the S300, not to be confused with the rodbending 300SD, 350SDL, or S350. =) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 25 Apr 2006 11:24:43 -0400 From: Luther Gulseth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Why no 320CDI choice for the new GL? ~Also - in Europe, I read that over 1/2 of the S class new car sales had ~diesel engines. ~That would be my dream MB - a 96-99 S Class with a large turbo diesel - ~The ultimate in luxury. I know the W140 is supposed to be vault like -- and ~never having driven a W140 or the newer S CLass (W220?) I can't really speak ~from experience but I would suspect the newer S Class would be close to the ~W140 in luxury and ride quality - probably not as good build quality as the ~W140 but it'd be nice to have the option. I'd like to see some on the used ~car market - ~ ~Oh well - I wonder of MB listens to the public? ~ ~Sincerely,
Re: [MBZ] Free 86 Benz
Clay, if you check it out, let me know what model it is... I might be interested if it's a 300E, or 300SDL... =) +dm -- Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 02:01:44 -0400 From: Ed Booher [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Free 86 Benz If it is truly free, as in here's title now drag it away please, even without a key how could it not be worth it, yes? I mean, stripping it for parts would more than make for trouble of having to drag home, wouldn't it? On 4/26/06, redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: http://seattle.craigslist.org/zip/154375764.html I have no idea, but I may have to go look at it and take it home. -- Clay Seattle Bioburner
Re: [MBZ] Diesel G and M and C and E
More specifically, the chassis, and fancy electronic widgets, may have a tough time making it past 300kmi. Seems Mercedes stopped making the million mile car after the W124. Now, on the other hand, the newer diesel engines may be ok (mechanically) far past 300k with proper maintenance. I'm sticking with the W124 for many years to come, thank you berry much. =) -Dave M. -- Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 10:26:52 -0400 From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Diesel G and M and C and E If the 99 E-Class is any example, the new Mercedes will seldom if ever last 300kmi. -Dave Walton 94S350, 99E300
Re: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender
Larry,
Short answer - the note on the other forum was wrong. With a bent-rod
3.5L engine, you have basically 2 viable options:
1) Replace the engine with a factory 3.5L crate motor (long or short block)
2) Replace the engine with a 3.0L from a 1986/87 300D/TD/SDL.
If the 3.5L engine still has round cylinders and no oil consumption,
you have a third option... replace the rods BEFORE they bend. Kinda
spendy ($1200+ in parts, plus labor) but far cheaper than a new motor.
Putting a 617 into a W140 is just silly, IMO.
:)
-dm
--
Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 11:52:43 -0400
From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender
Recently read a note asking about putting a W123 300D into a 350SDL
rodbender on another forum - the short answer given was - yes, it;s an
easy change.
Has anyone tried this? Is it an easy change as they said? Seems like a
reasonable way to save a W140 that has exhibited its terminal rod problems.
W123 300Ds are pretty reasonable now a-days and once the engine and
ancilliary parts were removed the remainder could be parted out/sold, making
it a zero cost option - depending on cost and proceeds from selling stuff.
Curious - I think there's some W140s out there that have gotten the dreaded
Need a rebuild comment from their technician and they might want to just
be rid of it.
BTW, would the donor engine mate to the W140 tranny easily? Or perhaps the
donor car needs to provide the engine *and* tranny??
Thx -
Sincerely,
Larry T ('74 911, '67 MGB, 91 300D Turbo)
Re: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender
It's almost impossible to tell without pulling the head. You need to measure how high each piston comes out of the block - all 6 should be equal. It could be done via the prechamber hole with a special factory tool (normally used to determine TDC location) but in reality, almost nobody would (or even *could*) do that - just pull the head, inspect the cylinder walls, and measure the piston protrusion. Once the oil consumption gets bad enough to really notice, it's WAY too late. Oil consumption on any 60x engine should (IMO) be about 4000 miles per quart or better. Less than 4k and somthing ain't right, under 2k/qt start saving for a motor. (This assumes the oil is NOT going out a bad turbo seal, or into #1 cylinder from the timing chain cavity due to a failing head gasket.) Nothing to see or do from the bottom end, so leave the oil pan alone. If oil consumption is better than 4k/qt, it's a decent bet that the engine is OK. No guarantees, but pretty good odds. That's when you hope the previous owner is telling the truth and is 100% positive the number of miles per quart! =) -dm -- Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 16:21:00 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Saving a W140 Rodbender Thanks again to the replies - there certainly seems to be some differences of opinions - but the people on this forum seems to be in agreement. Dave M wrote:replace the rods BEFORE they bend. This option seems to be the best of all worlds - next question -- how do you determone if the rods have/have not started bending without pulling the head and check the cylinders for ovality and perhaps the oil pan to check the con rods? Which sounds like you'd be pretty far along to completely disassembling the engine for a rebuild. Would oil consumption be the symptom to indicate the rods have not bent? Or is this something where you buy the car with the thought of fixing whatever you find? I guess this kind of scenario needs to get into the negotiations when a car is found - certainly would seem to be a tricky situation -- TIA - Sincerely, Larry T
Re: [MBZ] proper boost pressure on a 300Dt
Spec is 0.75-0.85 bar, I believe (10-12psi). On my 1984 300D, there was no increase in power beyond 10psi... same power with 10psi as there was with 17psi. You need more fuel to make more power. But, if you are under 10psi, either the wastegate is opening too soon, or the IP is way low on fuel delivery (ALDA adjustment needed). :) -dm -- Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 15:00:10 -0700 (PDT) From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] proper boost pressure on a 300Dt What is the boost pressure supposed to be on a 1985 300Dt? Thanks, Chris
Re: [MBZ] 124 broken window
I'd let the dealer do the job, but if you or anyone else is removing the rear (or front) door panel on a W124, the big tip is DO NOT PRY OUTWARD. Remove the plastic stuff, unbolt the top of the door handle, slide the door handle housing forward to un-clip it, then the whole panel slides straight upward. No prying of any kind is required. Prying will break irreplaceable plastic tabs. =) -Dave M. -- Date: Wed, 26 Apr 2006 19:57:14 -0400 From: wilton strickland [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] 124 broken window Flying rock from a landscaper's grass trimmer broke rt rr window in my showroom 87 300D today. 'Fraid guys at glass shop my not know how to rr inside panel without damage to panel, tabs, etc. Any tips I may give them? Is it more like 123 or 126? I've done 123 and 126. No longer able to do it myself. Wilton
Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux
Kevin, It sounds like you are trying to mount the clutch to the water pump, then attach the fan blade separately? That would be awfully hard, if not impossible. The blade and clutch should stay attached. You install the water pump by itself, then drop the clutch+fan down the front and bolt it on with the single 8mm Allen-head bolt. This is very, very hard to do with the radiator in place if you don't have the bolt spinner tool, and the stubby socket. You've got two options: 1) Pull the radiator. It will be easier in the long run, and gives you an excuse to blow the radiator condenser fins out with compressed air. 2) Buy the stubby socket and fabricate the spinner tool. Photos are here: http://www.w124performance.com/images/tools/OM60x_serp_belt_tools.jpg With the correct tools (shown in the photo above), I can have the fan + clutch removed in literally less than 5 minutes. It's worth the tool cost for the time savings if you own a 124/603 and do your own work... :-) -dm -- Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 09:21:22 -0400 (EDT) From: Kevin J. Slater [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 87 300TD cooling problems redux Ok, last night I replace the old water pump with a shiny new (Geba) one from Rusty. When I was disassebmling I had a heck of a time getting the metal fan past the viscous clutch on the front of the water pump. I was able to get it past with a little bit of wiggle and force. The same can't be said for the reassembly. I can't see how it's possible to get the fan back on the front of the viscous clutch without removing the radiator. (Which I was trying to avoid.) Anyone been there and done that and have a clue for me before I bite the bullet and pull the radiator tonight? ...Kevin 87 300TD 283k mi (and holding)
Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale
Chuck, There are different Sportline sway bars for the W201 chassis, including a sort of stage 2 setup from the factory Evo II model (201.036). However, I recall someone saying that the 124 front bar can be made to fit a 201 if you cut an inch off each end, *and* flip the mounting brackets on the frame around. I've never done this myself though. Glad you like the sway bars, Alex! I'm planning on upgrading to a 20mm rear bar next, and leaving the limo front bar. That should help make my car a tad more neutral (not that I have any complaints as-is, though.) :) -dm -- Date: Thu, 27 Apr 2006 21:49:07 -0700 From: Chuck Landenberger [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale Alex Dave... Will the W124 Sportline Swarbay fit into a W201 16V and improve cornering and reduce body roll?? TIA,
Re: [MBZ] Nice 500E for sale
Yep, that belongs to a forum member at 500E.com, he's mentioned several times that it would be coming up for sale soon. If I were in the market for another 500E, I would probably grab this immediately at the buy it now price. The top speed photo is interesting, as the speedo is optimistic for the indicated RPM... should be 149mph at 5500rpm, not 160 (at least with stock gearing). :) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 263kmi (Sportline) On 4/28/06, Darrell W. Sigmon [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: TAKE A LOOK SEE AT THIS 500E !! DWS http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4635447889
Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale
I am almost certain that on the 124, you don't need to worry about SLS, other than stretching the U-clamp or something. Should definitely be doable. I never checked the Euro EPC to see if MB sells a larger clamp for Sportline models with SLS. (Hmmm, might even be some USA models with that too.) I'll take a peek when I have a chance. :) -dm -- Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 07:44:40 -0700 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale Ya, I've been wondering how I could upgrade the TD to a fatter bar, but didn't want to mess with the SLS, especially if I had to fab the linkage.
Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale
Sunil, The front bar is pretty easy... about an hour if you are mechanically inclined. The rear bar is much more work, took me about 4 hours the first time I did it, but with practice I can now do it in less than 1 hour. The procedure for the rear bar is on my website. No procedure needed for the front, just don't tighten the clamps until the car is settled on the ground in ready to drive position. :) -dm -- Date: Fri, 28 Apr 2006 08:44:05 -0700 From: Sunil Hari [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 Sportline swaybars for sale How hard is it to install sway bars on a 92 300D? If it improves handling and it's an easy install, I'm interested ...
[MBZ] RANT: Gmail attachments
I just learned one of the limitations of Gmail. You cannot send .EXE files
of any kind, even if they are in a Zip package! Renaming the .exe to
something else ('.exx' for example) doesn't work either, with or without
Zipping. Gmail still pops up the same error that executable files are not
allowed to be sent. Well isn't THAT just freakin' great. Anyone have a
workaround that doesn't involve posting files to an FTP server?
fume
--
Dave M.
Boise, ID
1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship)
1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
[MBZ] V8 CDI (Actual Mercedes content - sorry, gun lovers)
They killed the Touareg? In all 45 states? That sucks. I heard it was a pretty neat rig. (uh, 'reg'?) I'll have to pick up the Merc rag (for about $10, ugh) and read the new CDI review. I'm afraid I'll develop an unhealthy lust for one and start making irrational phone calls to my loan officer. If it will outperform the E500 gasser, it must be close to high 13's in the 1/4 mile. The sick part is, that's STOCK, and these computer-controlled turbo cars are often capable of staggering performance gains with a simple ECU reprogram or chip swap. Found a thread with specs and pics - drol: http://forums.thecarlounge.net/zerothread?id=1996708 730Nm of torque =:-O Dave M. Boise, ID -- Date: Wed, 31 Aug 2005 15:49:11 EDT From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Passat diesels To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Why not? It may well be. BTW, no one has mentioned that the Touareg diesel is gone too. My friend DM had one in the pipeline when his order was cancelled. He's trading his ML. The latest Mercedes Enthusiast (on the free reading stand at Barnes Noble) tests the new E420 CDI (twin turbo 4.2 V-8 diesel, a new engine for '06) which has more hp and performance than the E500. They raved about it. RLE/ Seattle
Re: [MBZ] Rebuilt ECU
John, Potomac German Auto (1-888-873-3236) has two of that exact part number in stock for $125 each. Are you sure the ECU is bad? They don't often fail... :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 10:11:54 -0400 From: John Peterson [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Rebuilt ECU @uritc.org http://uritc.org Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1 Has anyone found rebuilt or used ECU's anywhere online or elsewhere? I need one for a 1990 300D 2.5 and have come up empty trying to find one. Rusty? mercedes part 0085455032 (06) bosch 0281001094 John Peterson Kingston RI 1990 300D 2.5 120k 1991 300D 2.5 74k
Re: [MBZ] Weight of soy oil....what did you pay???
In the podunk towns I live next to, diesel popped to $3.25/gallon this morning. Might be $3.50 by sundown. If I can get virgin VO for $2.50/gal, point me to the vendor, please. I'll keep track of every drop and remit my DOT taxes promptly, honest Injun. -dm -- Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2005 17:43:18 -0700 (PDT) From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Weight of soy oilwhat did you pay??? About 5 gallons...if you paid less than $15 for the bucket I would be VERY surprised. PLEASE LET ME KNOW. 1,000 liters of food grade soy bean oil in KC comes to $2.68/gallon. Since I can still fill up for $2.49/gallon, it doesn't make sense yet...if things keep going like this, it soon will. Most VO-ers in Germany simply buy food grade VO and put it in - no filtering, no collecting and FAR cheaper than fuel at the pump. Christopher
Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts
Pretty sure Constantine got a factory rebuilt long block. Expect the cost to be $6-$7k plus labor misc parts. Suddenly six conrods doesn't sound as expensive, if you already have the engine apart. Photos of that crate engine are here: http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603.970_crate_engine/ Dave's site is up running but the domain name has changed. The engine price PDF at this link, but I haven't updated the prices in a while... you'll need to call Rusty for current numbers: http://www.w124performance.com/docs/mb/OM60X/OM603_rebuilt_engines.pdf :-) Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 06 Sep 2005 01:23:10 -0400 From: Marshall Booth [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Tightening Connecting Rod bolts. dave walton wrote: Any pointers on how to procure a rebuilt engine would be appreciated. My local mercedes dealer is useless - on a good day. It is curious that the cylinder wall rim above the area of travel of the top piston ring is roughly as out of round as the area where the piston travels. It is possible that I missed a decimal point, but I doubt I'm that lucky... Unfortunately I did not find this list until long after I had purchased the car. I appreciate everyone's help and patience. Try contacting Constanine. He replaced his OM603.97 with a Mercedes supplied engine a few months ago. Not sure if it was new or rebuilt, long or short block. Constantine N. Polites [EMAIL PROTECTED] Dave M. had a price sheet, but his site no longer seems to be accessable. Marshall
Re: [MBZ] Steering Vibration
There are no caster bushings on a 124, that's a 140-specific issue. I would start by testing the steering shock - disconnect one end and see how much damping there is, it should take a lot of muscle to move it in out. Otherwise look for any play in steering linkages, particularly the idler arm bushings. Check wheel bearing play too. Wouldn't hurt to get the wheels balanced on a good machine like a Hunter GSP9700. Make sure your wheels have weights on the inside AND outside (dynamic balance), not a single weight in the center (static balance). A lot of shops do static balance on alloy wheels because they think people would rather have nasty vibrations than look at a little lead weight clipped on the outside edge where everyone can see it. (My word, what a fashion faux pas THAT would be!) Every time I get my wheels balanced I need to make sure I explicitly ask for this and they always look at me like I'm nuts for wanting a weight on the outside, but it's been the only way I can get a smooth ride. The MB 2-piece weights are sweet, they don't damage the wheel. =) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2005 12:00:54 -0400 From: ned kleinhenz [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Steering Vibration My '95 E300D (124 body) has an awful steering wheel vibration at ~65 mph. At any other speed, very little vibration is noticable. I rotated the tires front to back and that did not change anything. From a web search, I found another list that suggesedt this may be caused by failure of the front caster bushings (on a 140). Does anybody on this list have experience with this problem? Ned Kleinhenz '95 E300D x2
[MBZ] W124 sunroof kaput
Hi all, I just had a sickening experience... hearing unnatural noises when trying to open my sunroof (down back) from a popped-up state. Something is broken but I can't tell what exactly. There's a bar that goes across the width, on the rear of the opening... the left side moves back, the right side stays put. Right now it's stuck/jammed in the popped-up state, which I guess is better than wide open, but still doesn't make the car useful in wet weather. Fiddling with it, I can get the left side to lower partially but not the right. Anyone have tips on how to get it closed without screwing things up worse? At the moment I'd be content with getting it shut and then disconnecting the motor. I know the general wisdom is to NOT attempt a DIY repair, and take it directly to a shop that knows how to fix this type of sunroof (very different than the simple, old W123 style). I'm probably going to end up doing that but not right away, if possible. I looked up the prices for some of the parts, and if it needs a new frame (eek), cost of everything will be $1000 *wholesale* - plus labor!!! (The old frame was superceded to a new style, which requires a half-dozen extra updated items, hence the higher cost.) BTW - this is on my 87 300D. The updated sunroofs started, I think, in late 1987 model year. Hmm... maybe I could rape the sunroof mechanism from my parts car! Anyone attemped a DIY repair on these and lived to tell the story? :-( -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] W124 sunroof kaput
Hi Peter, Thanks for the info. My sunroof is in the closed position at the moment. Am I going to have a hassle getting the liner out? And do you mean the small liner on the sunroof itself, or the big interior headliner inside the car? On a side note, I was able to get the sunroof closed, which is great news. However whatever broke is rattling and annoying. I can stick a widget into the back of the opening to put pressure on something that reduces the rattle, not an elegant solution, but it make it tolerable for the moment. I can kind of see the broken part but can't tell what it is - need to disassemble things further. Probably going to be my new winter project (December/January)... :-/ -dm -- Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 00:28:03 -0500 From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] W124 sunroof kaput The only hard part about the sunroof I found is getting the liner out when the roof is totally jammed. This can easily ruin it. Mine was rather bent up when we got done, but we managed to straighten the side channels enough for it to work. Otherwise, most likely you need only replace the lift angles and get the panel adjusted correctly, neither of which is particularly difficult, just a pain in the sitting part. Get a manual, paper or CD, it makes the job MUCH easier! Peter
Re: [MBZ] Bad Idle Fixed now a paint question
Hi Peter, That's strange, because a bad EGR valve or lifters should not cause serious idle problems. But, as long as teh indy has it 90% fixed, I wouldn't argue too much. ;) If the engine is carboned up, fuel additives will NOT clean it out - but they will clean the injection system. As someone else already mentioned, the carbon cleaning process involves lots of full throttle runs to the redline, preferably uphill. Don't worry, this doesn't hurt the engine. You should see lots of smoke out the tailpipe at first, but after a dozen or so WOT runs from approx 20mph to 80mph, you should get less and less smoke until it's barely visible. The more carbon there is, the longer it will take. I'd wonder why he says it's carboned up though, that's hard to tell. If it's sluggish I'd adjust the ALDA (assuming it's virginal.) =) -dm -- Date: Wed, 07 Sep 2005 19:11:40 -0400 From: Peter Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Bad Idle Fixed now a paint question You may remember that I had a problem a few weeks ago with bad idle on my 300SDL. We were suspecting a bad injection pump. My normal Indy asked me to take to another fellow who was M/B trained on older diesels. He said pump was good, lifters were bad ;-( Frustrated, I bought new lifters (Thanx Rusty) and EGR valve which he had also condemned. Got the car back today, it is about 90% better. I am very happy. Indy wants me to use some Red Line fuel treatment for a while, he insists that I am carboned up. -- Peter T. Arnold Windsor, Connecticut U.S.A. 1987 Mercedes 300SDL, 225 Kmi on Delvac1, changes when f-soot is 2%
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 4, Issue 82
Russ, We need more info... there are approximatley a jillion control boxes on that car. Which one did the dealer quote $7k for? I'm suspecting the LH module (fuel computer), EZL (ignition module), or TBA (throttle body actuator... none of which should be more than, oh, $2-$4k. If you can get more details I'm sure we could locate a used box for a few hundred bucks. Or, I'll buy the car, if he'll sell it cheap, lol... =) +dm -- Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 13:28:23 -0400 From: RAH [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] WTB the control box that makes V12 run like a 6cyl. My Insurance guy has a 94 SL600 and its running like a 6cyl. Does anyone have a used control box for sale? Kaleb? I don't know the part # for the box he needs, but I can find out if you think you have it. I did point him to Rusty. The dealer told him $7K for the box! ( I told him he could most likely buy 2 mint 300SD's for that price!) Russ H.
Re: [MBZ] Mercedes Digest, Vol 4, Issue 82
Good point, John. I was assuming the shop had already ruled out the harness, or that it was already replaced. If not, that is DEFINITELY the first place to start. I'd order new OE and not bother with fancy upgraded wires (not worth the hassle, IMO). :) -dm On 9/9/05, John M McIntosh [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Over on the benzworld w140 forum http://www.benzworld.org/forums/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=13 there is lots on the decomposing wire on certain W140 ( others) from the mid 90's Certainly lots on the S(L)600 which requires two of everything at extraordinary prices, and some threads about folks attempting repair via aircraft grade wiring and soldering irons. Personally I coughed up funding for a wiring harness to replace the cracked ones for my S500 and a new AFM since the rat (yes physical rat) chewed wires enough to toast the electronics in it. On 9-Sep-05, at 7:31 PM, Dave M. wrote: Russ, We need more info... there are approximatley a jillion control boxes on that car. Which one did the dealer quote $7k for? I'm suspecting the LH module (fuel computer), EZL (ignition module), or TBA (throttle body actuator... none of which should be more than, oh, $2-$4k. If you can get more details I'm sure we could locate a used box for a few hundred bucks. Or, I'll buy the car, if he'll sell it cheap, lol... =) +dm -- Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2005 13:28:23 -0400 From: RAH [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] WTB the control box that makes V12 run like a 6cyl. My Insurance guy has a 94 SL600 and its running like a 6cyl. Does anyone have a used control box for sale? Kaleb? I don't know the part # for the box he needs, but I can find out if you think you have it. I did point him to Rusty. The dealer told him $7K for the box! ( I told him he could most likely buy 2 mint 300SD's for that price!) Russ H. ___ For used parts email [EMAIL PROTECTED] To Unsubscribe or change delivery options go to: http://striplin.net/mailman/listinfo/mercedes_striplin.net -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] AWD Diesel?
Yes, lots of them, but none imported to the USA. My 1987 300D (124.133) was available in Europe with 4Matic (AWD) as a 124.333, ditto the wagon version (124.393) and a bunch of other combinations of engines too. Such a shame we never got those. Nearly impossible to import to the USA unless you have dep pockets... :-( -dm -- Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2005 14:18:54 -0400 From: dave walton [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] AWD Diesel? Has Mercedes ever made an All Wheel Drive diesel? Thanks -Dave Walton P.S. Unimogs don't count.
Re: [MBZ] WTB the control box that makes V12 run like a 6cyl.
Yes, the new OE harness are made of the same stuff. But, if you don't intend to keep the car more than another 10 years, that should suffice... then the next owner may get to repeat the treatment. Underhood heat may play a part in this. Whenever I park the car, I always pop the hood so things don't bake under there. Of course this isn't practical if you don't park in a locked garage. ;) The effort required to recreate the harness from superior materials would be enormous - personally I would not want to bother. =) -dm Good point, John. I was assuming the shop had already ruled out the harness, or that it was already replaced. If not, that is DEFINITELY the first place to start. I'd order new OE and not bother with fancy upgraded wires (not worth the hassle, IMO). :) Certainly less hassle, but aren't the OE harnesses made of the same wonderful materials? Craig -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Cars of listing craigs seattle
Drat, I was hoping nobody had noticed. I emailed and asked if it's driveable, no reply yet. If it won't shift into top gear then I can't get it... would need to drive 500 miles home. I wonder if I could modify the diesel tranny to fit, since I have a spare... all the valve body settings would be different though (WOT upshift RPM, etc). BTW - I'm guessing that SLK was supposed to be $13,500 or $23,500, not $3,500. (NO idea what they're usually selling for.) ;-) -dm -- Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:17:34 -0700 From: Zeitgeist [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] Cars of listing craigs seattle That '94 TE is awfull tempting http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/96678536.html --94 TE $3500 Casey Olympia, WA
Re: [MBZ] Cars of listing craigs seattle
Casey, I was told that the diesel p/b unit takes a negative voltage on one particular pin, while the gas unit has positive on that same pin. No idea if this is correct, or if so, which pin is the problem and what it controls. I'd like to know though, as the 1987 diesels have a unique p/b unit from all other USA 124's. There's also a difference between early and late gassers but I'm not sure what, if anything, is functionally different (could have been a Celcius vs Farenheit thing for all I know, lol.) :) -dm BTW: Can anyone explain why the 124 ACC pushbutton unit is different for the gasser and diesel engines? On 9/13/05, Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Drat, I was hoping nobody had noticed. I emailed and asked if it's driveable, no reply yet. If it won't shift into top gear then I can't get it... would need to drive 500 miles home. I wonder if I could modify the diesel tranny to fit, since I have a spare... all the valve body settings would be different though (WOT upshift RPM, etc). Casey Olympia, WA Biodiesel: '87 300TD intercooler (209k) '84 300D (204k) Gashuffer: '89 Vanagon Wolfsburg Edition (185K) -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Paint Codes
Hi Peter, According to my 1987 color chart: 900 = Deep Blue (non metallic) 904 = Midnight Blue (non metallic) 929 = Nautical Blue (metallic) looking at the sample color chips on my chart, the 929 is slightly lighter than the 900, but not drastically. I'd guess it's your eyes deceiving you, or it might be some fading over the past 18 years. There is no code 930 that year. On a side note, my car is 904 (Midnight Blue), which everyone mistakes for black except maybe in full sunlight. I don't know how many times I've been asked 'hey, is that your black BMW out there?' me: 'Uh, if you mean the blue Mercedes, why yes it is...' :-) -Dave M. -- Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2005 19:15:16 -0400 From: Peter Arnold [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Paint Codes My 1987 300SDL is in my eyes a deep Blue. Paint code should be 930 The Paint Codeon the car appears to be 929 which is Nautical Blue. That is much lighter. Car has not been repainted. I need to buy a quart to paint rear quarter and deck lid. Any Thoughts? -- Peter T. Arnold Windsor, Connecticut U.S.A. 1987 Mercedes 300SDL
Re: [MBZ] what color is this?
Hmmm, the EPC won't pull a datacard for that VIN. Is there a trick to getting datacard for older VIN's without the 'WDB-' prefix? I've never needed to look up an older one. It did figure out the chassis model but no datacard... that option is grayed out in the menu. :( -dm -Original Message- Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2005 9:37 PM To: Mercedes mailing list Subject: [MBZ] what color is this? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Mercedes-Benz-300-DIESEL-4-DOOR-1976-300D -MERCEDES-ONE-OWNER-GARAGE-KEPT-ALL-RECORDS_W0QQitemZ4575022232QQcategor yZ6315QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem -- Kaleb C. Striplin/Claremore, OK
Re: [MBZ] WTB engine box for 94 SL600 UPDATE
Russ, That would be the E-GAS module (electronic accelerator (EA) control - NOT the fuel injection LH module, not the ASR module, and not the Basic module). Bummer part is that a quick search doesn't show one available used. That doesn't mean there isn't one available, just that it might be hard to locate. Try Potomac German on the east coast, and Silver Start and Stockton Auto in CA, and DV Salvage in OK. If you can't find one used, Rusty will have the best price for a new one (although I agree $4k is a bit hard to swallow - ouch.) On a side note, I would not want the indy to repair the harness. It should be replaced! That's probably about $2k for the new harness, but a 'repaired' old harness can fail somewhere else later on and fry another $4k E-GAS module. (Ouch.) :-( -dm -- Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 08:07:49 -0400 From: RAH [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] WTB engine box for 94 SL600 UPDATE My Insurance guy got back to me with the part # for the box he needs for his V12. MB part # 129 545 04 32 Bosh # 0205 00 019, I need to re-install my EPC so I still don't know what its called. Apparently the wiring harness burnt up and fried the box, He's had an Indy rebuild the wiring harness and just needs this box to get the SL running on all 12. If anyone has this for sale or knows a source, please let me know. Thanks, Russ H.
Re: [MBZ] limo - W100 (600 limo)
That's not a W115, it's a W100... a 100.012 to be specific. One of the most expensive cars on the planet to own. If you aren't used to spending whatever you like and having accountants figure out your finances, run away. For those that missed the original link: http://tinyurl.com/9soct Example: The injection pump for the engine has a current list price of $24,000. Thankfully the rebuilt pump is only $4500 plus a $1250 core. The injectors are $1730 each, that's $14,000 for a set of eight (no rebuilds available for those.) My favorite? The rear axle is $24k rebuilt plus $3k core... only rebuilds available. ;-) No argument on it being an awesome car though - that it definitely is, especially considering the time period! :) -dm -- Date: Fri, 16 Sep 2005 10:24:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Christopher McCann [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] limo To: Mercedes mailing list [EMAIL PROTECTED] The W115 limo is absolutely awesome. Period. (1st link) Christopher
Re: [MBZ] OM603 cylinder head removal - special tools?
The FSM procedure leaves the whole exhaust assembly attached. This adds a lot of weight, so having a strong friend will help. The chain rail puller can be simulated with assorted M6 bolt lenghts and stacks of washers/spacers for the rail to pull into. Or, you can cut/break the chain, since it's not an engine you will be putting back in service. :) -dm On 9/18/05, Aaron Lam [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello all, Tomorrow morning I'm attempting to remove a cylinder head from an 87 300D that's in a local junkyard. Besides the triple square socket, what other special tools are absolutely required? The FSM makes note of a few such as the timing chain slide-rail puller, but I figured I'd ask because sometimes alternatives can be improvised. Also, can part of the exhaust manifold (and the turbo possibly) be left attached to the cylinder head when it's being removed? PS: If anyone's in the SF Bay Area and can possibly lend a hand tomorrow morning, shoot me an email off list... Thanks in advance for any assistance, Aaron -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline)
Re: [MBZ] Safe airbag removal (was: 201 CD manual Cruise?)
There's no special tools needed, but there's a special procedure: 1) Disconnect battery negative terminal 2) Remove passenger footwell carpet remove plastic tray 3) Unplug the RED electrical connector 4) Remove airbag. That makes sure there's no electrical connection to the airbag wire. The explosive charge in the airbag is roughy equivalent (IIRC) to a shotgun blast - not something you want to mess around with. The above applies to the 124 chassis but I believe the 201 and 126 have the red connector in the same place. I'm sure Marshall will correct me if I'm wrong. ;-) -Dave M. -- Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2005 19:51:40 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Harry ?M.) ) Subject: Re: [MBZ] 201 CD manual Cruise? Ron, not sure about Mercedes, but when it comes to removing the air bag I think there is a special tool required to safely take the bag out from the steering wheel. There should be a section in a Bentley on how to remove it.
[MBZ] That cheap 1999 SLK for sale on Craigslist
Finally got a reply from the seller. Gosh, it's such a great deal, but I just don't have the money. Thought I'd share it with y'all. I was nervous about the logistics of the deal but then I saw he's using an escrow service so no worries, it's all good. Yeah. :p -dm -- Forwarded message -- From: Mick Belzebut [EMAIL PROTECTED] Date: Sep 19, 2005 4:07 PM Subject: Re: Your 1999 SLK for sale... To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Hi, Sorry for this late answer. My name is Mick Belzebut I'm a US citizen but currently I work at the Sweden office of my company. This has no negative effect on you because shipment is included in the buy it now price and will cost you nothing more. I must tell you that i `m selling this beautiful car not because I want it, but because I have to. When I moved in Europe a month ago I didn't know about the taxes for register a US car. The car was bought from US, so it is US standards, so stay cool it´s perfect compatible to your standards and you will don´t have to pay more duty taxes on it. And this is an impediment for me to sell it here because, first, we have a different standards and second will be very expensive for me to register it here. I have to pay a very expensive duty taxes. The price for this 1999 Mercedes-Benz SLK-230 is US$3500.The car it is still register in States, and the title is clear. FOR MORE INFORMATION ABOUT MY CAR PLEASE GO TO MY WEBPAGE: www.jameswebpage.4t.com here are and some pictures with the car. It will be shipped from Stockholm, Sweden and I will pay the shipping and insurance charges. I will do the arrangements for shipping from here. The car is in perfect condition, never been involved in accident or something like that. The car is in the best shape ever, the title is clear so you will don't have any problems when you will registered. The car passed the test emissions and comes with all the documents you need to registered. The payment will be done via secure pay which means that the third party will keep the money until you receive and inspect the car. I prefer that our deal to be supervised by Craigslist. I will wait for your email to let me know if you are interested in knowing more details about the purchase. Regards, Mick, == Dave M. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: Hello, Is the price correct in your listing for the SLK - $3500? Is anything wrong with it? Thanks! -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline) ## # craigslist Advisory: Fraud and Scam Warning! # # Please read our scam advisory page before replying to this message: # # http://www.craigslist.org/about/scams.html # # # # This warning is automatically attached to # # ALL craiglist forwarded emails # ##
Re: [MBZ] ABC news item on veg oil in US diesels
Coherent? How about *any* policy? Shoot, in California they give illegal immigrants driver's licenses. (Note the 'illegal' part of that statement.) I wonder if diesel Benz repair would be considered a skill they need in NZ... it's starting to look better down there as things get more crowded up here. O_o -dm -- Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2005 13:15:53 -0500 From: Potter, Tom E [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] ABC news item on veg oil in US diesels Things have changed a bit. It has been years since I looked into emigrating to Australia or NZ. I do not fault them for their policies. I wish we had a coherent immigration policy. Thomas E. Potter Telephone: (713) 215-2877 Fax: (713) 215-2551 Mobile: (832) 794-0536
Re: [MBZ] WIS
It's got full coverage of the W124 W201, I think full coverage of the 126 (except 617 engine - not sure about 117), and most everything newer. Nothing on the 123, 115/116, or older. For the 124/201 etc, the main difference between it and the CD-ROM's is tranny repair information, and some assorted extra bulletins articles. I've got a USA version and also a worldwide version (which theoretically includes some other chassis not imported to the USA). -dm -- Date: Wed, 21 Sep 2005 21:33:57 -0500 From: Kaleb C. Striplin [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] WIS so how far back does it go? Does it really cover older models? Or just newer ones?
[MBZ] Klann spring compressor on eBay
Thought someone might need this... current bid $199: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItemitem=4576532589 :) -Dave M.
Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL
Hi Ulises, Assuming you have ruled out the obvious things like plugged fuel filters, etc: 1) The most likely cause is low fuel delivery off idle. This is very common on older cars. The easy fix is to adjust the ALDA to increase the off-idle fuel. I don't know of a good writeup on the web anywhere, but basically you remove the ALDA, remove the tamper seal, carefully adjust 1.0-1.5 turns CCW, and re-install. Photos on how to remove it are here: http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_injection/ 2) A plugged signal line to the ALDA does NOT affect off-idle performance, but it will make the car sluggish after take-off, say above 2500-3000rpm. Wouldn't hurt to check this too - the fitting at the intake manifold can be plugged, also the switchover valve (electrical doohickey with two tubes attached) can get plugged. 3) Less likely is mis-adjusted throttle linkage, but check that too.. have a friend push the pedal to the floor (with the engine off!) and make sure the linkage is hitting the stop. This is hard to see though, as the linkage is buried under the intake manifold. 4) Also not likely is a plugged catalyst, assuming you already have the trap oxidizer removed replaced. With the car in park, floor the pedal and see if the engine quicky and easily revs to approx 5100rpm. If not, you may have a plugged exhaust. Don't hold it at redline too long, just a second or two... you just want to see if it will get there quickly or not (within a second or two). Not sure if you have the trap removed? Here's a photo: http://www.w124performance.com/images/OM603_exhaust/trap_oxidizer.jpg 5) Finally, check the car 0-60 with a stopwatch... factory spec is about 13 seconds, if you are slower than 15 seconds something is definitely wrong. :-) Best regards, -- Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 94kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 258kmi (Sportline) -- Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:25:57 -0700 (PDT) From: Ulises Caraballo [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL I have a 1987 300SDL Turbo Diesel with 183,000 miles, the car is extremely slow on take off, almost dangerous to drive. I have checked everything that I possible can to see why there is such a problem. If anyone has had this problem please please help me! Thank You
Re: [MBZ] LA needs some help
OMG, those are HILARIOUS! Thanks for sharing. The movies (QuickTime format) played fine on my system. =) -dm -- Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2005 20:39:26 -0700 From: redghost [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] LA needs some help A friend sent me this link. It wouldn?t be funny if it wasn't so true. I'm still laughing. Watch the two videos from this link. They are being broadcast on local LA TV promoting the LA county fair. http://www.fairplex.com/2005/video/index.asp -- Clay Seattle Bioburner
Re: [MBZ] Another reason not to wade in the waters of New Orleans!
It's a scam... photos are real, but from the Congo two years ago, not N'awlins: http://www.snopes.com/katrina/photos/crocodile.asp Also, the crocigator is about half the size the email below claims. Always somone trying to create a ruckus by creating these fish stories. I got it via email from someone at work, too... ;) -dm -- Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 15:07:23 -0400 From: BillR [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: [MBZ] Another reason not to wade in the waters of New Orleans! Can't vouch for the veracity of this email, but it is interesting. Reported to be in New Orleans. Now this is an AlligatorThis gator was found in New Orleans swimming down the street. 21 FT long, 4,500 lbs, around 80 years old minimum. Specialists said that he was looking to eat humans because he was too old to catch animals. This crocodile was killed by the army last Sunday at 3:00 pm, currently he is in the freezer at the Azur hotel. The contents of it's stomach will be analyzed this Friday at 2:30pm.
Re: [MBZ] Turbo cooldown (was: 1987 300SDL)
This is largely BS, and if it's in print in an owner's manual, it's there because of lawyers, not due to engineering requirements. That said, here's my $0.02: 1) if you use Mobil-1 (or other Group IV/V synthetic), a cooldown is not required - period - assuming your engine is mostly stock (500hp OM603 Finnish Superturbos may need 30 seconds even with M-1, lol.) 2) Highway driving creates litte to no excess heat. Shoot, after loafing along at 65mph on a flat road, the oil cooler t-stat sometimes doesn't even open! Once after driving home from work (55mph max) the lines were cold, and I was worried I had a problem. One quick full throtte run to 75mph quickly opened the t-stat and engaged the oil cooling circuit. EGT's are not often above 500-600F and that's nowhere near the actual oil temp. 3) The basic idea here is to not shut off the engine immediately after any period of heavy load or full load. Don't climb Pike's Peak with a brick on the pedal and then shut it off as soon as you hit the summit. Do you need to wait 30-60 seconds after pulling into a freeway rest stop, or after pulling into your garage? No way, unless there's a steep hill involved immediately preceding. Just use common sense. How many Mercedes diesel turbos have you heard about failing due to coked bearings? I've heard of, ummm, lemme count... ZERO in the past 5+ years since I've been on the MB email lists. (Marshall? You have better data here?) 4) The Mercedes diesel turbos are sized such that overheat and coking is largely a NON-issue. Gas engines are a *totally* different story. However, if you use dino oil of any kind in an MB turbodiesel, I would not want to go past about 5kmi on change intervals (maybe 7.5k max with *really* light usage, i.e. extended Kansas freeway trips.) The dino oil doesn't handle the heat as well. Synthetic really works great for all turbo applications. Get the Mobil-1 5W-40 Truck SUV formula (aka Delvac-1). :-) Best regards, Dave M. Boise, ID 1994 E500 - 95kmi (Q-ship) 1987 300D - 259kmi (Sportline) -- Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 19:22:51 -0500 From: Peter Frederick [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: [MBZ] 1987 300SDL A couple of minutes of idle or near idle running in necessary to cool the spindle in the turbo after running on the highway --at the very least, the turbine wheel will be red hot, hotter if under load like in the mountains. Immediately shutting the engine off will cause the oil to burn onto the spindle, and the carbon created will eat the bearings up. The cure is, of course, replacement of the cartridge, possibly the whole turbo if the housing is damaged. Usually accompanied by excess oil consumption and copious blue smoke from oil leaking out of the turbo into the exhaust stream. The only cooling the turbo gets is oil circulation, so it's necessary to idle for a couple minutes or more after running on the highway. Usually only a problem if you pull into a rest stop for 90 mph and immediately shut the engine off, almost any other circumstance it takes a couple minutes to get parked, etc. Says so right there in the owner's manual. My Volvo did this, probably from neglect by the PO, since I use only synthetic oil and never heard the turbo until I had to replace it. MUCH better performance after repair, believe me! Peter
Re: [MBZ] oh boy, read the auction questions
Car? There was a car? -dm -- Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2005 22:12:51 -0400 From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] (Harry ) Subject: Re: [MBZ] oh boy, read the auction questions Its shameful to admit this, but I can relate to those questions. yep the car is nice too
Re: [MBZ] Turbo cooldown (was: 1987 300SDL)
Under full load, they may indeed get red hot. Under normal driving, no way. Under normal driving conditions my EGT's are usually 400-600F cruising at legal speeds. I think at a steady 90mph it's more like 800F. Extended full throttle (more than 10-15 seconds) can push things to 1200-1400F, beyond that aluminum melts. Again, under normal circumstances, there's just *not* that much heat being generated. I've never seen my turbo anywhere near glowing or red hot. I have heard of gas turbos literally being hot enough to glow red after a hard drive but I've not seen that personally. BTW, the turbo is spinning at all times with the engine running, even at idle... it's just not spinning fast enough to produce boost. Peak turbine speeds are, IIRC, somewhere around 100k RPM? -dm :) On 9/23/05, Gabriel S. [EMAIL PROTECTED] wrote: do diesel turbo vanes get red hot? don't diesels have lower exhaust temps than petrols? I was always under the impression that the cooldown period was until the turbo stopped spinning...30 seconds or less?
