Eric,
What DOES happen? Do the ANT1 and ANT2 lights illuminate and change
when you press the K2 ANT switch?
Are there any lights in the SWR LEDs when you attempt a TUNE?
If the answer is no to either of those questions,, dig out your DMM and
take the top cover off the KAT100.
Measure the 2 o
Hi Gang,
I have a new-to-me KAT100 I'm trying to get working. It is connected to the
same PS as the K2/100. K2 PORT is ON. Known good PS cable. KAT100 appears
dead, K2/100 ATU menu setting will not change. Control cable from previous
owner who says it was working.
What am I missing?
Thanks
Dear Santa
What if Elecraft designed and built a KAT 100 ATU
1. 3 antenna ports
2. Same width as the FT891 as a marketing strategy.
3. Take the design of the KXAT- 100 ATU And I had some brains
4. Interface cables to work with Yaesu and Icom. transceivers, plays well
with others.
I think Elecraft
Hi all,
I am looking for an Elecraft KAT100 for my K2/100. Please feel free to
contact me if you have and are willing to sell.
73
BH5HTF
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Hans,
First of all, check to see if you have power to the KAT100 - you should
have 12 volts on both ends of RFC2.
If that is correct, check to be certain there is +5 volts at pin 2 of
U2, U3 and U4.
If all is well so far, suspect that either the MCU (U1) or U2, U3 and U4
have failed.
73,
Don
After two years of flawless function my combo-installation ( k2 + KAT100)
stopped working.
The friendly chatter of relays when pressing the tune button went silent, and
the line of small lamps on the front of the KAT100 went up all the way in RED.
while the display showed ( excessive power)Iswith
I've had a KAT100 sitting under my workbench for several years. I sorta
forgot about it. A couple of days ago I recognized the box, pulled it
out and assembled it. I've built dozens of K-Kits. This is the third
KAT100 I've built. I'm very careful. But... This one doesn't want to work.
There is
Oooops
I misread your email. You are asking about the KAT100 in the radio. I read as
KAT500.
Download the KAT500 manual and I believe segments are the same for both ATUs.
And “learning” process is the same.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Aug 21, 2020, at 2:41 PM, Mike
I read Recision D on the website and didn’t see anything in that one either.
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
> On Aug 21, 2020, at 11:48 AM, Mike Kopacki wrote:
>
> Guess I missed that! Checking now.
>
> Hmm. Bill, I just paged thru the entire manual and there is no mention of
> what you’re saying.
Guess I missed that! Checking now.
Hmm. Bill, I just paged thru the entire manual and there is no mention of what
you’re saying.
Is it possible you have a newer manual? This one is Revision C, March 12,
2003.
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
> On Aug 21, 2020, at 11:30 AM, Nr4c wrote:
>
> Read the
Read the manual. There is a list of the frequency segments that can be stored
in the memory. It’s near the back of the manual. Most bands are 20KHz
segments, so many for each band.
Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill
> On Aug 21, 2020, at 8:47 AM, NJMike wrote:
>
> The KAT100 manual says th
The KAT100 manual says that the tuner’s settings are stored in EEPROM.
My question is - how many memories are stored? Is it just one for each
band?
Thanks,
Mike NJ2OM
--
Sent from: http://elecraft.365791.n2.nabble.com/
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Sorry for the confusion ... wasn't thinking when I typed out the subject
line. Thinking KAT100 typed KPA100, then sent it :(
Neil, KN3ILZ
On 6/4/2020 3:32 AM, Neil Zampella wrote:
Hi all,
I saw that the K2 100w tuner accessory, the KAT100 is no longer
available and discontinued. I'm guess
So much can happen in 3 years especially when talking about retirement ages and
I’d be inclined to buy the K2 now and build it now if that is a viable option
and it really is high on the bucket list.
Paul
W6PNG/M0SNA
www.nomadic.blog
> On May 28, 2020, at 3:23 PM, Fred Jensen wrote:
>
> Yo
You might want to have your wife purchase the K2 kit now and hide it
from you as a retirement present in 3 years. The K2 will likely remain
available for as long as the parts supply chain is intact. No way of
knowing when that may end but the K2 is around 20 years old.
73,
Fred ["Skip"] K6DG
After I retire in three years, I was planning on ordering and building
the K2 and the KAT100.
I noticed the KAT100 has been discontinued. Hopefully the K2 will still
be around for a while.
Bob Richards, AA4AI
Sponsored by
https:/
Hi all, as the KAT100 is retired, i’m looking for a kit of a KAT100-1 or
KAT100-2, or also a buildt one in good condition. (Delivery in France)
Thanks.
—
Chris
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Jonathan,
That is a great discovery. Yes, if U5 was getting hot it would be
dragging down the 5 volt supply and causing U1 to not function.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 1/4/2020 12:18 PM, Jonathan Taylor, K1RFD wrote:
Don,
Z1 is resonating away, but in the course of verifying that, I noticed
that the U
Don,
Z1 is resonating away, but in the course of verifying that, I noticed
that the U5 op-amp was getting hot to the touch. I replaced it, and
now all is working normally. Perhaps it was loading down the 5V
supply excessively.
I'm guessing that U5 made the ultimate sacrifice in the same inciden
Jonathan,
Yes, replacing KAT100 U1 would be the prudent first step. But if you
can, first determine if the resonator Z1 is providing clock pulses to U1
pins 13 and 14. Without those clock pulses, U1 will not be functional.
If you have a local ham who also has a KAT100, see if you can swap U
Thanks Don.
I had the same thought about U1, but unfortunately the symptoms remain
after re-seating it a couple of times.
Regarding AUXBUS, I believe continuity is good, since a logic probe on
the KAT100 side shows activity when certain K2 controls are
manipulated such as Power, Tune, and Band. I
Johnathan,
Since the KAT100 is not recognized in the K2 menu, you either have a
problem with the KAT100 firmware, but do check the cable for continuity
of the AUXBUS signal that is used to communicate among the various
pieces of firmware ICs throughout the K2 system.
Since the KAT100 has not
I am testing my KAT100, which had been sitting idle for a number of
years. It is connected to the K2/100 via the DB9 cable as described
in the KAT100 manual. The two are interconnected with a coax cable
and Ant1 is connected to a dummy load.
1. Apply power to KAT100.
2. Turn on K2/100.
3. Almost
Don
Thanks
On 2019/05/26 21:25, Don Wilhelm wrote:
The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on
and function.
So the answer is that it will only function with the K2.
Yoou might consider the KAT500.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote:
Hi all
D
The KAT100 ATU needs the control signals from the base K2 to turn on and
function.
So the answer is that it will only function with the K2.
Yoou might consider the KAT500.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5/26/2019 5:39 AM, Yoshida Akira wrote:
Hi all
Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ?
T
Hi all
Does KAT100 ATU work with transceiver other than K2 ?
Thanks in advance
--
73 de aki
JA1NLX
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Hello everyone,
I have a set of pre-wound toroids for the KAT100 autotuner for sale.
I received these with a tuner that I built but I always wind my own toroids.
All are as received from Mychael Morohovich. Mychael gets $37.50 plus $8
for shipping. I will ship my set to any US destination
Bill,
With that evidence, I would arbitrarily replace Z1. Those 4MHz
resonators are inexpensive.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 9/5/2018 2:42 PM, Bill Coleman wrote:
OK, a final follow-up on this.
Since the 12CTRL signal resulted in 5V power at the regulator immediately, I
racked by brain trying to fig
OK, a final follow-up on this.
Since the 12CTRL signal resulted in 5V power at the regulator immediately, I
racked by brain trying to figure out why The KAT100 would fail to light the
LEDs for seconds, sometimes tens of seconds.
I decided the problem might have to do with the U1 clock. I put a
I’ve confirmed that 5V power on the output of U8 comes up IMMEDIATELY when the
K2 is switched on. Q2 seems to be doing it’s job. However, the KAT100 will sit
there without any LEDs for a while, sometimes seconds.
I’m beginning to wonder if Z1 is not oscillating right away. I need to check
that.
Bill,
The AUXBUS is NOT at fault.
The parts to concentrate on are shown in the lower left corner of sheet
2 of the KAT100 manual. Something there is not working reliably. My
first guess would be Q2, but it could be something else associated.
That entire powering circuit is controlled only b
OK. I could use a little more help with this issue.
Let’s re-cap where we are.
Issue:
KAT100 doesn’t always turn on right away. When it does this, it may or may not
switch low/high power LEDs when the power control is rotated. Pressing Ant 1/2
or Tune, the K2 will indicate “not inst”. Sometime
Bill,
Are you looking at the K2 MCU firmware or the KAT100 firmware?
The KAT100 firmware currently is 1.05, and the 1.04 should work OK.
If you looked at the K2 firmware (hold any button while powering on and
it will be briefly displayed), then the level to support the KAT100 must
be 2.03d or
Sadly, I have no old PIC chips for the KAT100 in my inventory. It came out of
the box with the 1.04 firmware (which isn’t the latest, but I don’t have the
K60XV, either.)
I do have a second DB9 cable I can try, if I can find it.
> On Aug 6, 2018, at 7:05 AM, Bill Coleman wrote:
>
> I pulled
I pulled out the KAT100 PIC chip and re-inserted. No change.
I can confirm that transition ARE reaching Pin 40 on the KAT100 PIC chip. I see
roughly three bursts. Two come shortly after turn-on, the third comes a second
later.
I think you’d need a storage scope or logic analyzer to reverse en
That’s not the way Elecraft recommends. The KAT100 contains an electronic
switching mechanism. Power must be present at the KAT100 coaxial connection
before the K2 is switched on. The KAT100 uses the 12CTRL voltage from the DB-9
connector to turn on it’s internal supply.
> On Aug 5, 2018, at 7:
I would configure the station power such that the tuner is powered from the
switched source on the radio. Thus the power supply is on first and then the
radio is turned on and powers the tuner at the same time.
Bob, K4TAX
Sent from my iPhone
> On Aug 5, 2018, at 6:02 PM, Don Wilhelm wrote
Bill,
If it were a bad PIC chip, the results would be consistent. Reseat the
KAT100 firmware Ic to clear away oxidation.
Look for a flaky connection on the Control cable - at both ends.
There is not much that you can diagnose with a 'scope other than to
determine that the chip is getting tran
Jack screws appear to be tight on both ends.
After I cycle the power 6-12 times, it will eventually come up. I wonder if I
have a bad PIC chip in the KAT100. I may try an older version of the firmware,
I think I have one. That will take a few days.
I can put a scope on Pin 40 of the PIC chip.
Bill,
Fine on the power sequence, but the Not Inst message indicates that
either the Control Cable to the K2 is not fully plugged in (check both
ends) or the cable has a bad connection, or that the firmware in the
KAT100 is not being recognized.
You should tighten the cable jackscrews to che
Yes, I have a cable that has the PowerPole connections to the K2/100, and a
separate coaxial jack for the KAT100.
I switch the power supply on, which means the KAT100 has power, then switch the
K2/100 on, which powers up the combo.
So, yeah, I have power applied to the KAT100 before the K2.
>
OK, I have a K2/100 (#2548) connected to a KAT100.
As of late, the KAT100 has been reluctant to turn on. I turn on the K2, and it
comes up right away, but the LEDs of the KAT100 often stay off for 20-30
seconds, then come on.
When the KAT100 finally turns on, it often isn’t tracking lo-hi pow
Mike,
I would believe that diodes D1 and D2 in the KAT100 have been damaged by
a nearby lightning surge. If that is not the cause, then the firmware
IC may be damaged. BTW, it will not tune correctly the way it is.
The diodes are 1N5711 type Elecraft p/n E560004. I would get 4 of them.
I
An issue has arisen with my KAT100. The tuner works fine but the LEDs for
the SWR do not light. The PWR and Antenna LEDs are OK. Can someone
recommend a solution?
Thanks,
MIke, W0RSR
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The KAT100-1 is now properly on the order section of the webpage and the
shipping status page. I did not check further.
Yes, the shipping status properly shows the KAT100-2 as discontinued,
but the KAT100-1 is listed as In Stock right above that item.
The K2 will ship soon after the new part
Looks like the KAT100-1 is back on the order page. I had to refresh the
browser to see it. That's good news.
Gary Watson
On Tue, Mar 20, 2018 at 10:06 PM, Don Wilhelm
wrote:
> The KAT100-1 is still shown on the Products page.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 3/20/2018 10:10 PM, George Winship, NC5
The KAT100-1 is still shown on the Products page.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/20/2018 10:10 PM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:
I hope you are right, Don. The shipping status page shows both the 1 and 2
discontinued. And neither one is on the order page.
I built my K2 in 2001 and later added the amp, K
I will contact the folks at Elecraft tomorrow to see why the KAT100-1
has disappeared from the website. Perhaps it was an error.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/20/2018 10:10 PM, George Winship, NC5G wrote:
I hope you are right, Don. The shipping status page shows both the 1 and 2
discontinued. And ne
I hope you are right, Don. The shipping status page shows both the 1 and 2
discontinued. And neither one is on the order page.
I built my K2 in 2001 and later added the amp, KAT100, etc. It has been one
of the most fun things that I have done in this hobby. And it is still the
main radio in th
Gary and all,
The KAT100-1 is still available, it was the EC2 enclosure which was
discontinued, and that is the reason the KAT100-2 was also discontinued.
You cannot build the KAT100-2 without the enclosure.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 3/20/2018 8:32 PM, Gary Watson wrote:
This may be old news, I searc
This may be old news, I searched and didn't see anything about it.
I was looking at the Shipping Status page and noticed they had discontinued
the tuner. They still have the KPA100 for sale, but without the tuner it's
seems it won't be long before they discontinue the 100 watt amp.
The K2 kit is
Jean,
If you have measured the antenna with your antenna analyzer, it should
be OK.
First check diodes D1 and D2 in the KAT100.
If those are good, then turn to page 28 in the KAT100 manual and do the
SWR Bridge Null adjustment and the Power Calibration (page 29)
If you still have problems,
Hi K2 members and Don W3FPR.
Last night I do have next failure.
I was transmitting with 50 W in CW with my K2/100 with in conjunction with
my KAT100 into a perfect aligned 7 Mhz dipole (SWR1/1)
Before starting I always do a tune with my K2 we never no the SWR is bad hi.
The SWR indication o
The KAT100 needs both the 12 volt power connection *and* the 12CTRL
signal from the K2 to power itself on.
So yes, you need the control cable plugged from the base K2 (or KPA100)
to the KAT100 before you will see any lights. The control cable is
shown in the KAT100 manual.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 5
Made the same mistake. You need both power cables hooked up: one to the KAT100
and one to the K2. You can use a 'Y' cable to power both.
Brian
KB1VBF
Sent from my iPad
> On May 25, 2016, at 8:47 PM, mjpilgrim wrote:
>
> I recently purchased a used KAT100. Not sure how to interpret a possibl
I recently purchased a used KAT100. Not sure how to interpret a possible
failing condition at Power UP time. Stupid Question: If I simply connect
12VDC to the DC power input jack on the KAT100 (without the K2 physically
connected), should I see the lights eliminated on the KAT100? Reason I ask
Many thanks, Ken; your paper on converting to a KAT100-2 in the EC-2 is just
what I needed.
My initial question to the reflector was answered when I learned that the KAT2
mounts in the base K2 cover (thanks to several people who told me that.) But
having resolved that issue, the next question
Jerry,
If you set the power to 40 watts as I asked, you should not have 120
watts output with TUNE.
First you have to fix that power control problem. The most likely cause
of that is the wattmeter diodes D16 and D17 in the KPA100. They are
1N5711 diodes, and you should order 4 of them so you
Good Morning Don:
I did as you instructed. On 40 meters the watt meter is reading 120 watts.
I have 1 LED showing on the tuner. The display on the K2 shows 52 wattsand
1.1-1 SWR
As I change bands, the results change. The higher bands are showing less
power out and SWR up to 1.5-1.. The
Jerry,
There is no one transistor that will cause that behavior.
First put an in-line wattmeter and a dummy load on the KAT100 ANT1
connector, set the power to 50 watts and then enter TUNE.
1) does the tuner tune so no LEDs are lit on the KAT100? If no, how
many are lit?
2) what is the power
Good evening all:
I'm looking for some advise. My KAT100 / KPA100 are in an EC2 enclosure next
to my K2.
I was changing bands this evening and neglected to changeantenna's when moving
from 80 to 40 meters.
I hit the " TUNE " on the K2 and my KAT100 triedto tune. It ran through
the sca
Hello everyone,
I have an extra set of pre-wound toroids for the KAT100 auto-tuner for
sale. These are from Mychael Morohovich and are of his normal very high
quality. I got them with a KAT100 kit but I prefer to wind the toroids
myself. Mychael gets $37.50 plus $8.00 for postage. I will
Since you have the KPA100 disconnected and the KAT100 connected to the
KIO2 for control, the KAT100 with the K2 ATA menu in CAL, you can
calibrate the KAT100 much like the KAT2 for wattmeter balance and
forward power.
Connect the K2 to the RF IN and a dummy load and inline wattmeter to ANT1.
S
Thanks Don. The KPA 100 is still disconnected. I have the base K2 with KAT2
connected to the KAT100 in the EC2 chassis. This normally has the KPA100 on
top, but was removed as suggested to perform the troubleshooting.
I don't have an extra dummy load at this time, but I am going to see if I
can
It sounds to me like all should be well.
As a refinement ---
If you have 2 50 ohm dummy loads and a coax TEE adapter, you could put
the dummy loads in parallel to produce a 25 ohm dummy load. That will
give you a sanity check on the Reflected trimmer pot calibration -
adjust it to light the SW
Ok, I received the new diodes today and have installed them into the KAT100.
Running the tests in CAL mode has the LED indicators on the KAT100 matching
what the display on the K2 reads, as well as matching the W2 watt meter. Is
there anything else I should be looking at before starting to put t
Tom,
Check the voltages on Q8. When the K2 is powered, you should have 12
volts on the gate and the drain should go to a low voltage.
That in turn should make Q1 conduct.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 8/6/2015 11:41 PM, Tom Field wrote:
Having gotten the side tone situation sorted out, I now find I have
Having gotten the side tone situation sorted out, I now find I have no
power going to the KAT 100.
I've checked the plug and voltage on D4, R12, and R11. There appears to be
nothing getting through Q1, I have no voltage on the collector and no
voltage on U8. Bad Q1?
Tom
KN6DR
___
Parts are on order. I'll update once I have the diodes swapped. Thanks for
the help thus far.
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_
Jeremy,
The wattmeter in the KAT100 has been damaged - diodes D1 and D2.
You also have the KPA100, and it has a wattmeter with those diodes - so
order 4 just in case those need to be replaced too.
We can get to the KPA100 after the KAT100 has been taken care of.
Failure to disconnect the anten
Ok, redid the tests in CAL mode with the following results:
160M 1.03:1 No LED indication on KAT100. K2 showed 1.0:1 Hi Current
warning
80M 1.03:1 No LED indication on KAT100. K2 showed 1.0:1 Hi Current
warning
60M 1.02:1 No LED indication on KAT100. K2 showed 1.0:1 Hi Current
Jeremy,
Your first link resulted in an error 404, but the 2nd showed a diode
that I believe may be a specialty version. It was highly overpriced at
over $11 each. The Aligent data sheet for the 1N5711 shows it to be a
15 ma device.
You would do better to order from Elecraft. Order E560004 -
Jeremy, why not order the diodes from Elecraft and be sure you get the
correct ones?
73!
Ken - K0PP
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The diodes I was looking at were 1N5711, but they were either 70V 15mA
(http://www.digikey.ca/scripts/DkSearch/dksus.dll?Detail&itemSeq=176360177&uq=635730153536694158)
or 70V 33mA
(http://www.digikey.ca/product-search/en/discrete-semiconductor-products/diodes-rectifiers-single/1376383?k=1n5711).
Jeremy,
Hopefully you had the ATU menu set to CAL for those tests. If not,
please re-do the measurements.
Assuming that you were set for ATU CAL, I can offer these comments:
With the configuration you have now - KAT2 and KPA100 out of the
picture, those results indicate that 1) the KAT100 wat
Jeremy,
Do not order alternatives for use in the wattmeters. Use only 1N5711s
if you want the best voltage response vs. frequency.
Those parameters are not specified. Elecraft chose those diodes long
ago based on testing for that frequency response.
If you are looking for alternatives, and do
What are the specs for the diodes? I'm seeing 70V 15mA as the common size.
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Ok, so I've removed the KPA100 completely, and disconnected the KAT2 serial
and RF connections. I connected my W2 watt meter on the output of ANT2 of
the KAT100, and the LOAD side of the sensor to a 50 ohm dummy load. The
readings and indications I got are as follows:
160M1.00:1 No LED indi
Jeremy,
You must remove the ribbon cable to the KPA100 to remove it from the
path - I suggest physically removing it from the EC2 enclosure just to
be safe. The fact that you had the KPA100 partly in the path during
your tests could create invalid observations.
Use a dummy load for testing r
Be sure to check all the cables or try changing
them out one by one, Jeremy.
Phil W7OX
On 7/17/15 10:05 AM, JeremyJones wrote:
After many months of flawless operation, my KAT100 is starting to have
trouble tuning up, particularly on 40 and 80M. It even has trouble tuning
up a 50 ohm dummy loa
After many months of flawless operation, my KAT100 is starting to have
trouble tuning up, particularly on 40 and 80M. It even has trouble tuning
up a 50 ohm dummy load on these bands.
My normal setup is a 10W K2 with a KAT2, connected on the ANT 1 port to the
AUX RF port of the KAT100 (mounted i
Does anyone have a KAT100 original case. I had mine mounted in a E2 Case and
cant find what I did with the original kat100 case. I installed my kpa100
amp on my k2 and now want to put the kat100 back to original.
Anyone with a kat100 case please contact me at kc6...@gmail.com
Thank you
Gerald Ma
Hans,
The KAT100 probably can handle more than 100 watts.
BUT it needs the K2 to tell it to tune, report the power and SWR,
control the correct relays when changing bands or antennas, etc.
In other words, it must connect to the control lines in the K2 AUX IO
connector and communicate with the K
The term “can easily handle from 200mW to 100 watts” suggests that even more
than 100 watts is permissible.
Does that indicate that even 200 watts from a Palomar TX5300A could be handled
by the KAT100 ?
OZ5RB, Hans
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Yes, the KAt100will still try to tune. The SWR it reports will be
woefully inaccurate, and is likely a 'crazy' reading. Check the diodes
with an ohmmeter, or alternately measure the resistance between U5 pin 3
and ground, and also U5 pin 5 and ground. Both should measure between
40k and 50k
Static got the diodes in the k2 100watt amp. Could they also get the diodes in
the kat100. If the kat100 d1 I & d2 blow will the tuner still try to tune only
not arrive at a low swr?
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Checked my dummy load with an MFJ-259 and it is 50 ohms resistive, no
capacitive. Rechecked all soldering with a lighted magnifying glass and
cleaned up a couple of joints. Rewound T1 just to be sure it wasn't shorted
in the windings.
Still the same results of 0.035VDC on pin 3 of U5.
Jeremy
VA
Correction, 0.018 was at 5W. 10W still gives 0.036VDC
Jeremy
JeremyJones wrote
> I'm only running 10W through it.
>
> I've just gone through the complete instruction manual to ensure I haven't
> missed anything. Everything checks out. I've just finished the SWR
> Bridge Null test and am down
I'm only running 10W through it.
I've just gone through the complete instruction manual to ensure I haven't
missed anything. Everything checks out. I've just finished the SWR Bridge
Null test and am down to 0.018VDC.
Jeremy
VA3ZTF
Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
> Jeremy,
>
> How much power are you send
Jeremy,
How much power are you sending through that wattmeter? If it is 20
watts or more, it may just be that 30 mV is OK.
73,
Don W3FPR
On 2/28/2014 9:55 PM, JeremyJones wrote:
I've taken the watt meter out of the loop, and have the K2 set for 10W.
Double checked the windings and solder on
I've taken the watt meter out of the loop, and have the K2 set for 10W.
Double checked the windings and solder on T1, and it still won't go below
30mV. I definitely have C31 at the low spot as the voltage climbs on either
side. I still can't get anywhere the voltage needed at U5 pin 5 for the
po
Jeremy,
Tune the capacitor very slowly and use a non-metallic tool. The null is
sharp and deep.
You must have a good 50 ohm dummy load connected.
You may want to take your external wattmeter out of line to do the nulling.
The actual voltage will depend on the power level, at 5 watts it should
I just reread Dons post, and he says less than 10mV, so I guess I have some
trouble shooting to do with that first,
Jeremy
VA3ZTF
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I was only able to get U5 pin3 down to 0.03VDC during the SWR Bridge Null
test. Is that low enough? The manual says 0 volts or close to it.
Jeremy
VA3ZTF
Don Wilhelm-4 wrote
> Jeremy,
>
> You did not mention it, so I have to ask - when connected as you
> describe, did you first obtain a good
Jeremy,
You did not mention it, so I have to ask - when connected as you
describe, did you first obtain a good null at U5 pin 3 (by adjusting
C31)? That is a necessary first step. If you did not get a voltage
measurement in the single digit millivolt range (less than 10
millivolts), then 'a
I have just finished my KAT100, and am having an issue during the Power
Calibration of R3 and R4. I am using a K2 with KAT2. I have a cable
running from the Ant 1 jack of the KAT2 to the Ant 1 jack of the KAT100.
The KAT100 RF In jack is connected to the Transmitter jack of the power
sensor of m
Ed,
Neither the KAT2 nor the KAT100 have provisions for manually selecting
an L-C combination. The ALT position of the KAT2 does allow the
automatic search for a match in a bit more "detail" than the normal
algorithm. I believe the tuning algorithm for the 'normal' KAT100 may
be close to th
Like so many auto antenna tuners out there (MFJ, LDGetc...), many can be
put in the "manual" mode and stepped through different settings.I'm running
the K2 KAT100 tuner and really like the unit. So, is there a technique I can
use to manually "step" through various L/C setting for those h
Dave,
A little more information please.
Disconnect the KAT100 and connect the KPA100 into a dummy load - put an
external wattmeter between the KPA100 and the dummy load. Set the K2
power at 50 watts.
Then do a TUNE - what is the power read on the external wattmeter.
If my guess is correct, i
I just purchased a K2/100 with ant tuner. The tuner won't tune above 10
watts. Works great when power is turned down to 10 watts or less.
Anyone with an idea?
Dave
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