Thanks Mark. That question Was a little premature. I was thrown by the fact
that they sent me material for the verticals that was too small (which I had to
reorder) and the vagueness of the plans. Makes sense now. Had an issue with
which way the laminate was supposed to go and the size stock
Chad wrote:
> Quick question. The dimensions for the main spar called out in the
> plans. 2 5/32" top view. Is that to include the birch ply or is that
> the cap only?
Spar cap only. The "drawing number 12" covers spar and verticals, and
underneath shows the additional web plywood added, with
Quick question. The dimensions for the main spar called out in the plans. 2
5/32" top view. Is that to include the birch ply or is that the cap only?
Thank you
Chad
Sent from my iPhone
>At 03:40 PM 9/28/2015, you wrote:
>What type of varnish are people using on the spars?
+
Minwax Helmsman Spar Varnish. I bought mine at a boat supply company way
back in the late 90's. I have seen it at Menard's and Home Depot.
Mark
At 03:40 PM 9/28/2015, you wrote:
>What type of varnish are people using on the spars?
+
Any good quality varnish should work. Be extra cautious not to
varnish where you will have epoxy contacting the wood as in spar caps.
Larry Flesner
What type of varnish are people using on the spars? I have a set of Diehl wing
skins -should they be stored horizontally or vertically.
Thanks
Garry Cowles
Orlando FL
Sent from my iPad
At 05:25 PM 6/12/2015, you wrote:
>I thought that also...what could it hurt? But several times I've
>wished I hadn't done that, so I could remove the WAF for some reason
>or another...
Larry Flesner wrote:
> It wouldn't hurt to epoxy the fitting to wood contact surfaces also
as they are installed.<
I thought that also...what could it hurt? But several times I've wished
I hadn't done that, so I could remove the WAF for some reason or
another...mounting the wing tanks was
At 11:31 AM 6/12/2015, you wrote:
>A couple of other builders were looking
>at what I was doing and both recommended that I use a marine varnish on the
>bolts before I put them through the spars
+++
I'm with Mark on this one. Use epoxy.
Ray Fuenzalida wrote:
A couple of other builders were looking
> at what I was doing and both recommended that I use a marine varnish
on the
> bolts before I put them through the spars. If not, they said that the AN
> bolts would delaminate and rot the wood spars from the inside.
I think the
hello all,
Just a quick question. I am redoing the waf's on the wings I have (got
beautiful ones from Dan - thanks Dan) and I have a question about the
fittings and bolts. I am going to go ahead and do it because it makes
sense but I hadn't heard anyone mention it before. Of course I am priming
the conclusion of the German Test of the Kr Spar and WAF's calculated by
Otto Bartsch is: Any reliable built Kr with a MTOW of 1050 pounds is a 4,2 G's
plane with a 1,45 safety factor,or a 3,8 G 's x 1,6 plane!
Otto Bartsch assured me,that the calculation was carried out somewhat
That's nice to know...
Thanks!
On Feb 24, 2015 12:39 PM, "Herbert F?rle" wrote:
>
> the conclusion of the German Test of the Kr Spar and WAF's calculated
by Otto Bartsch is: Any reliable built Kr with a MTOW of 1050 pounds is a
4,2 G's plane with a 1,45 safety factor,or a
Wing skins, Virg
On 10/7/2013 4:51 PM, cruzj12 at frontiernet.net wrote:
> Has everyone building the 2s wings built the 12"extensions to plans or is
> there another method to get equal or better results? Thanks,...
> Joe Cruz
> Spencer,NY
> KR2S
> N6102L
>
Has everyone building the 2s wings built the 12"extensions to plans or is there
another method to get??equal or better results? Thanks,...
Joe Cruz
??? Spencer,NY
KR2S
N6102L
Hi Matt
I would really like to hear any advise you might have for someone
considering a "bent" center spar . I was going to purchase new spruce stock
possibly 1/4" thick to laminate them. Also any ideas for dealing with the
"spring back" effect that happens when a bent lamination is removed
Larry
Instead of doing a 3 piece setup like is in the plans, my spar will be
bent up at the fuselage like Darren Cromptons kr. The only difference
will be, I am gonna do away with the WAFS so everything will be 1
piece. This should create a little more room for fuel in the wings and
allow
Thanks for the advice Jeff, Roger, Oscar, and Joe. As you may have figured out,
wood is not my most knowledgeable subject. I read "sparcap" in the instructions
and assume they would be made from capstrip. Very bad assumption. You guys
saved me a bunch of money and time and possibly prevented me
erson" <kenhender...@q.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Subject: KR> Spar vs. Capstrip spruce stock
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2010 13:26:44 -0600
All,
Still trying to get my Aircraft Spruce wood order right and I have a few
questions. Is capstrip
Ken; capstrip stock is planks that have defects here and there but since it's
intended to be ripped into capstrips for ribs or framing, the defects can be
cut out and worked around. The wood itself is structurally sound, it's just
that the plank is interrupted by defects. For spar stock the
All,
Should have asked this as well. If capstrip is unsuitable for the wing
spars is it also unsuitable for the spars used in the horizontal and vertical
stabilizers? If so, not a problem as I will calculate width needed including
kerf loss, order 5/8" spar stock, and rip them myself.
All,
Still trying to get my Aircraft Spruce wood order right and I have a few
questions. Is capstrip suitable for use as spar and longeron material? In their
online catalog Aircraft Spruce states that their capstrip stock is
"non-structural". Aren't spars considered structural?
The
Larry H said: 4 bolts each spar on one side or 8 little bolts per side or 16
total on both sides. Some may have used 4 per side but if so use a
compression spacer between fittings. Probably safest to go the 16 piece
route.
I bought my KR2 plans built after all was built and just needed mods to
Australian Standards will not allow the 4 separate bolts per spar. They
insist on Two bolts with spacer. I used thick wall 4130 spacer and lock
nuts.
Phil Matheson
VH-PKR
Australia
KR Web Page
www.philskr2.50megs.com
http://www.vw-engines.com/
Hi and Happy early New Year,
This question is for those of you who purchased your wood from Wicks. I am
getting ready to build my inboard spars and the lumber wicks sent me is a
little over sized. Am I supposed to trim it to the final dimensions after it is
glued up, or did Wicks make a
I have sat the centre spars in the fuse for the first time, and they fit
very well, excepting the rear spar, the inner edges of the vertical members
fore and aft of this spare are closer than the outer edges, there is a lot of
bending in the side frame here, I would think the only way to
By all means get the end grain coated to prevent checking in the grain.
The top and bottom of the spruce is where you want glass to bond to. The
plywood should be OK to coat as foam is the only thing that gets bonded
to it. I had done all the inside of mine before the last layer of plywood
webs
Hey guys, Since I dont have a set of plans, can anybody tell me what wood I
would need to order to build a set of KR2S spars - The center ones, front
and rear. The only difference is that they will be 10 feet long - the
outboard spars will be standard length. I plan to build the 18%
Hey guys, Since I dont have a set of plans, can anybody tell me what wood I
would need to order to build a set of KR2S spars - The center ones, front
and rear. The only difference is that they will be 10 feet long - the
outboard spars will be standard length. I plan to build the 18%
Australia.
- Original Message -
From: <bdazzca...@aol.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 2:14 PM
Subject: KR> spar wood
Hey guys, Since I dont have a set of plans, can anybody tell me what wood I
would need to order to build a set of KR2S spars -
At 11:15 PM 5/7/2006, you wrote:
>Hey guys, Since I dont have a set of plans, can anybody tell me what wood I
>would need to order to build a set of KR2S spars - The center ones, front
>and rear. The only difference is that they will be 10 feet long - the
>outboard spars will be standard
What is s the 18% Airfoil?
Don
ifly...@aol.com wrote:
> Hey guys, Since I dont have a set of plans, can anybody tell me what wood I
> would need to order to build a set of KR2S spars - The center ones, front
> and
Of D
F Lively
Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006 8:09 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: KR> Spar wood
What is s the 18% Airfoil?
Don
ifly...@aol.com wrote:
> Hey guys, Since I dont have a set of plans, can anybody tell me what
>What is so the 18% Airfoil?
Don
That is one version of the new low-drag wing, see
http://www.krnet.org/as504x/
There are two versions, one is commonly called the 16% airfoil and is for
people who already have their spars built; and the other (the 18%) is for
new construction. It's advantage
> North Richmond
>
>
> Australia.
> - Original Message -
> From: <bdazzca...@aol.com>
> To: <kr...@mylist.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 08, 2006
Get the plans Order from AS or Wicks. they know.
Also, RR says DO NOT LENGTHEN THE CENTER SPARS, Virg
On Sun, 7 May 2006 23:15:06 EDT ifly...@aol.com writes:
> Hey guys, Since I dont have a set of plans, can anybody tell me what
> wood I
> would need to order to build a set of
I am not sure, from reading all of the posts in this thread, if a
constant 18% thick wing is what is being discussed here or an 18%
tapering to 15%. The 18% AS5048 was originally designed to be used as
the root airfoil of a wing that tapered to the 15% AS5045 airfoil at the
tip. According to
>I don't remember any discussions about
>using the 18% in any configuration other than as a root airfoil tapering
>to a 15% at the tip.
Steve:
Please correct me if I'm wrong but it is my understanding that the center
section stub wings are a constant cord of 18% thickness and the outer wing
Thanks for the info on spar wood guys. For those interested, I do need a
center spar length that is 2 feet longer than normal. The 18% chord AS
airfoil will improve the strength and load bearing necessary for my project.
The
Taller spar is about 20% stronger than the stock spar which
Bill:
That makes sense as the momentof inertia goes up to the 3rd power of the depth
of
section
(b x h cubed)/12. 8 cubed is 512 vs 7 cubed which which is only 343 so the
spar is
much stronger so in can probably handle the added bending moment. I know the
basics
but it would take a good aero
It might be time to elaborate on what Steve Eberhart eluded to earlier.
After either tunnel tests or analysis (I forget which), Ashok decided there
was something he didn't like about the characteristics of the AS5048 near
stall...some sort of burble or separation, or something, which is when he
Bill:
The Formula I used was for a solid beam not a KR2 Spar because the Spar
is a
"Composite build of (2) solid beams(plywood skins) and the spar caps
separated by a
distance and the "Crippling" can be ignored.
Primarily the added strength comes from the added depth section which is
taken to
more spin
resistent will make recovery more difficult.
Mike Turner
Jackson, Missouri
Swing the prop and light the fire, dance amoung the stars.N642MC
- Original Message -
From: <jscott.pi...@juno.com>
To: <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 7:31 PM
006 9:11:49 PM
> Subject: Re: KR> Spar length/spins
>
> I put my tanks in the outer wings amoung other reasons to make it
somewhat
> more spin resistant. I would agree that it would be somewhat more
difficult
> to recover "but not much" depending on how much rotatio
Obviously I'm missing something here John. Kindly explain the difference
between a properly baffled fuel tank in the stub wings versus the same =
tank
in the outer wing panels. It would seem to me that if wing drop is your
concern that the same weight further out would have more of a =
detrimental
in the outer tanks. Anyone tried it. :-)
Feelin embarassed here John.
- Original Message -
From: "Doug Rupert" <drup...@sympatico.ca>
To: "'KRnet'" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, January 27, 2006 4:26 PM
Subject: RE: KR> Spar length
Obviously I'm missing
>
>Nontheless, I would be interested to know how a KR behaves in a spin
>with fuel only in the outer tanks. Anyone tried it. :-)
>
> John.
++
My KR has outer wing panel tanks only. It's stall is very gentle and straight
No need for embarrassment. I thought that was the idea behind this list to
exchange ideas among builders and hash things out BEFORE construction and
possible costly errors.
Doug
Nontheless, I would be interested to know how a KR behaves in a spin with
fuel only in the outer tanks. Anyone tried
On Fri, 27 Jan 2006 06:45:58 -0600 Larry Flesner
writes:
>
> >
> >Nontheless, I would be interested to know how a KR behaves in a
> spin
>
> >with fuel only in the outer tanks. Anyone tried it. :-)
> >
> > John.
>
Hi Netters,
I was wondering if anyone has extended the length of their inner spars
to get over fuel without adding a header tank? If so how much was added to
total length? I would like to add a total of 12".. Is this possible? I would
also be leaving the outer spars their length.
luck,
Stephen
ste...@compositecooling.com
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net] On
Behalf Of bdazzca...@aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 25, 2006 2:42 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: KR> Spar length
Hi Netters,
I was wondering if an
PLEASE DON'T. Unless YOU are prepared to do the Engineering
math to prove that they will handle the loads. This is the one thing RR
does not want to be done, Virg
On Wed, 25 Jan 2006 03:42:11 EST bdazzca...@aol.com writes:
> Hi Netters,
>
>I was wondering if anyone has extended
Sent: Thursday, January 26, 2006 1:29 AM
Subject: RE: KR> Spar length
>I increased my stub wing 11 inches on each side. My main reasons for
> doing this were to increase my flap area and effectiveness and to
> increase wing area due to the weight of my engine. I increased the
>
Thinking of laminating my center spar caps and building in the dihedral. Do I
do this at the center of the spar or where the spar exits the fuselage?
Patrick Driscoll
Saint Paul, MN
patric...@usfamily.net
--- http://USFamily.Net/dialup.html - $8.25/mo! --
http://www.usfamily.net/dsl.html -
Pat Driscoll wrote:
> Thinking of laminating my center spar caps and building in the dihedral.
> Do I do this at the center of the spar or where the spar exits the
> fuselage?<
If I were doing it I'd do it just outboard of the fuselage or at the
fuselage sides. A V in the middle would make
The plans built are adequate, How mch time do you want to spend
building ?? Virg
On Mon, 1 Aug 2005 14:26:04 -0500 writes:
> Thinking of laminating my center spar caps and building in the
> dihedral. Do I do this at the center of the spar or where the spar
>
36
To: gle...@rtconnect.net
Subject: Re: KR> Spar questions
B. Ferguson wrote:
> Hello,
>
> With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any of
> the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness of the 5048
> airfoil, would add enough strength to
Nice work Oscar.
One thing most people miss in the analysis, however, is the variability
of the materials. Wood can be 50 percent (or more) stronger than the
published low limit. So, we need to test the actual parts to be used,
or allow a reasonable safety factor for the material variability.
`Standard K R 2 Spar WILL NOT take longer outboard wings and
still meet specs, Virg
On Tue, 08 Feb 2005 19:10:28 -0600 "B. Ferguson"
writes:
> Hello,
>
> With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any
> of
> the techniques discussed, along
>But again, RR is emphatic about using the -1B wings on the -2 or -2S.
This much I am aware of from the 1B posts Mark L. stirred up a few days
before Christmas. Read as much as possible on the 1B in the archives.
The question would be was this analysis for the original spars in the
old airfoil?
B. Ferguson wrote:
> This much I am aware of from the 1B posts Mark L. stirred up a few days
> before Christmas. Read as much as possible on the 1B in the archives.
> The question would be was this analysis for the original spars in the
> old airfoil?
It would certainly be for the original spars
Hello,
With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any of
the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness of the 5048
airfoil, would add enough strength to the center section to allow for
fitting of the 1-B wings? Adding a large amount to the span would no
doubtedly
B. Ferguson wrote:
> Hello,
>
> With this discussion on spar strength I was curious to know if any of
> the techniques discussed, along with the extra thickness of the 5048
> airfoil, would add enough strength to the center section to allow for
> fitting of the 1-B wings? Adding a large amount to
Steve wrote-
>I would destruction test a pair of spars if I had the capability. I don't
>have any way of putting 4500 pounds of pressure on anything, much less
>getting the load distributed right.
Why test a pair of spars? One will do. And as far as a test setup and
apparatus, check out
Oscar Zuniga wrote:
>
> Why test a pair of spars? One will do.
One stock, one laminated. Gotta have a control :)
> And as far as a test setup
> and apparatus, check out
> http://www.flysquirrel.net/wing/spartest.html and see if you can
> duplicate the high-tech test setup detailed there... PS;
You can also test a scale model of a spar and obtain good results. Stan Hall
discussed the methodology for this in an early Sport Aviation article, two
actually.
Denny ...
Oscar Zuniga wrote:
Steve wrote-
>I would destruction test a pair of spars if I had the
Does anyone have the dimensions of the spar caps (width and depth) and the
length and thickness of the blocks between them handy? I'm bored and feel
like figuring out how strong the things are.
--
Steve
N205FT
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
Check your plans, Virg
Virgil N. Salisbury - AMSOIL
www.lubedealer.com/salisbury
Miami ,Fl
VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote:
>Check your plans, Virg
I would if they were here yet...
--
Steve
N205FT
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will find, and he who knocks will be let in.
And he who waits will get the plans, Virg ( or should this have
been
sent direct??)
On Fri, 4 Feb 2005 14:41:36 -0600 "Bubba" writes:
> VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote:
> >Check your plans, Virg
>
> I would if they were here yet...
> --
> Steve
> N205FT
>
VIRGIL N SALISBURY wrote:
>And he who waits will get the plans, Virg ( or should this have
> been
> sent direct??)
And he who plans ahead and verifies the spar design in the plane is suitable
for his uses will survive to fly again.
--
Steve
N205FT
mystic...@swbell.net
He who seeks will
I would still make up 2 samples and test each with and without the carbon fiber
to test their different load carrying abilities. I think you may find it
interesting. The "cuff" of carbon fiber will move the immediate loading of the
spar out board to the bare spar, while the carbon fiber will
Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
There must be a structural engineer out there somewhere who would be only
too happy to answer any questions about this issue.
So maybe we can put it to rest, and only focus on the facts of this issue as
documented by someone who
At 05:42 PM 12/3/2004, you wrote:
>Enough about spars already!!! this has been flogged a thousand times.
>There must be a structural engineer out there somewhere who would be only
>too happy to answer any questions about this issue.
I am a licensed professional engineer and I gave my short answer
Thanks Don.
Gav
- Original Message -
From: "Donald Reid" <donr...@peoplepc.com>
To: "KRnet" <kr...@mylist.net>
Sent: Friday, December 03, 2004 8:51 PM
Subject: Re: KR> spar carbon fiber
> At 05:42 PM 12/3/2004, you wrote:
> >Enough
- Original Message -
From: "GavinandLouise" <gdono...@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: KR> spar carbon fiber
> > So maybe we can put it to rest, and only focus on the facts of this
issue as
> documented by someone who really knows.
> Gav
I am quite
Jim
I think you missed Marks point. It is not that he too lazy to design a new
spar for some other guy. Heck just look at his web site to see what he has
done for us. Instead he is busy with his own project and his spars are done.
If you or anyone else wants to undertake a redesign of the
I was not referring to the spars, I think he has done real well on that,
I was thinking of the foam and glass on the fuselage replaceing the
plywood it would be a simple test if someone has all the materials.
Jim
On Sun, 24 Oct 2004 12:44:01 -0500 "Brant Hollensbe"
writes:
Hello netters,
I became a Grandfather Saturday. Boy is he good looking.
I have been hanging back until I updated my anti virus program. Its done.
As far as KR.
I used the material list as specified in the plans and Wicks list. Tried to
purchase only the wood for the spars. Wrong. I now
I have a spar taper jig I used to taper the 89.5 inch spars in the plan view. I
can't seem to trash it. If someone wants it you can have it. (although you can
make one in about one hour.) I might even bring it to the gathering and put it
in the give-a-way pile. (Do we have one of those?)
How
At 12:31 PM 8/23/04 +, you wrote:
>I have a spar taper jig I used to taper the 89.5 inch spars in the plan
view. I can't seem to trash it. If someone wants it you can have it.
(although you can make one in about one hour.) I might even bring it to the
gathering and put it in the give-a-way
Gavin
I just got the price below from Marine Timbers in Melbourne. The $445 was
for most of the Spruce need to build a KR Fuse. and the hoop pine ply per
sheet.
---
Phillip
price for hoop pine as per list - $445.00
3/32 (2mm) ply $66.55
1/8 (3mm) ply $66.55.
all prices include GST
ex
Can someone tell me what is the correct skin to use for the spars. I need to
place my order this week.
The plans call for 3/32 mahog. with birch or popular core. I noticed Mark used
birch plywood. According to Wicks prices it would be cheaper and I am about
cheaper.
Finally (I think this was
Subject: KR> spar skins
Can someone tell me what is the correct skin to use for the spars. I need to
place my order this week.
The plans call for 3/32 mahog. with birch or popular core. I noticed Mark
used birch plywood. According to Wicks prices it would be cheaper and I am
about cheaper.
Finally
Thanks Brian,
I think I will be ordering 2 4x8 sheets of Birch.(for spars only). If anyone
needs to stop me let me know.
Steven Phillabaum
Auburn Alabama>
> Use M90.
>
> I used Mahogany but it did cost a lot. My last two KRs had a lighter
> colored wood that I assumed was birch but I was
Steven Phillabaum wrote:
> I think I will be ordering 2 4x8 sheets of Birch.(for spars only). If
anyone needs to stop me let me know.
You're right about the cedar. That's the one place on the plane that birch
is required, rather than mahogony.
Mark Langford, Huntsville, Alabama
N56ML "at"
lf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2004 10:35 PM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins
Steven Phillabaum wrote:
> I think I will be ordering 2 4x8 sheets of Birch.(for spars only). If
anyone needs to stop me let me know.
You're right about the cedar. That's the one place on the
Sorry about the cedar comment. I had a picture of mahogony in what little
brain I have left, and it came out as cedar instead. They kind of look
alike, from about a hundred yards or so.
I don't have a manual in front of me right now, but I believe the manual
says that either mahogany or birch
"Somebody else is
welcome to check for us..."
Ok I'm reading it right now, so I'll have a look
p.19.
"3/32 plywood
3 ply mahogany, birch or
poplar center."
Cheers.
Peter Bancks
stranged...@dodo.com.au
http://www.homebuiltairplanes.com
http://canardaviationforum.dmt.net
For what it's worth, from the KRnet search engine at
http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp , using "birch plywood spar" got a
bunch of hits, the one below included. Maybe it's where I got the idea, but
I don't think anybody will argue that birch is not the stronger of the two,
and hence a
And having said that, here's one from Don Reid where he advocates running
the grain horizontal, rather than vertical. I'd trust just about anything
Don says as gospel.
--
List-Post: krnet@list.krnet.org
Date: Jul 20, 1999 8:27 AM
From: Donald Reid
.
www.engalt.com
-Original Message-
From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of StRaNgEdAyS
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 7:44 AM
To: kr...@mylist.net
Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins
"Somebody else is
welcome to check for us..."
Ok I'm reading it right now,
[mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On
Behalf Of Mark Langford
Sent: Thursday, July 01, 2004 8:06 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: Re: RE: KR> spar skins
And having said that, here's one from Don Reid where he advocates running
the grain horizontal, rather than vertical. I'd trust just about anything
Don s
> thickness # plysparallel perpendicular
> 0.125" 3 15.17 5.544
... but after looking at these numbers, I think I just started an argument
with myself. I had to wonder what's wrong with vertical, since that would
be "parallel to the grain", and by far the strongest.
No one has mentioned the 5/8" vertical spruce blocks that the plans call for
when building KR spars. The spars are a variant of an I-beam. The function of
the web in any I beam or box beam is to keep the two caps from coming together.
No matter what loading is put on the beam - plus or minus
At 08:52 AM 7/1/2004, you wrote:
> > thickness # plysparallel perpendicular
> > 0.125" 3 15.17 5.544
>
>... but after looking at these numbers, I think I just started an argument
>with myself. I had to wonder what's wrong with vertical, since that would
>be "parallel
I thought you were an electrical engineer :)
On Thu, 1 Jul 2004 09:21:24 -0400
"Wood, Sidney M." wrote:
>No one has mentioned the 5/8" vertical spruce blocks that
>the plans call for when building KR spars. The spars are
>a variant of an I-beam. The function of the web
: Thursday, July 01, 2004 9:21 AM
To: KRnet
Subject: RE: KR> spar skins
Plywood has an odd number of plies with outside plies in the same grain
orientation. That is the strongest dimension orientation.
Sid Wood, Tri-gear KR-2 N6242
Mechanicsville, MD USA
sidney.w...@titan.
My main reason for stating that you should not drill through the glue
joint was because it is very hard to keep a drill bit going straight
+
Good point - could ruin an expensive spar if the drill bit goes walkies.
>>>.
If I build
At 09:58 AM 6/10/2004, you wrote:
>Thanks - that gives me more confidence. Still bothers me that Don Reid
>did not like the idea - I was expecting a boffin (like him) to step up
>and declare this to be as good as (or better).
>
>My instinct is to stagger the WAF bolt holes so as to void having
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